FEMME MAGAZINE | JUN ISSUE 162 | FMLIFESTYLE.COM
Feel the fashion breeze Malta’s young design hopefuls DIY fashion
WELCOME It’s always heartening to see how, despite the size of the country, we still manage to produce, inspire and export so much talent. Must be the weather. But then, it could also be our survival instinct – as a tiny island that sometimes doesn’t even feature on the map, we know we have to persevere in order to survive. And that’s exactly what we’re doing, in all areas. In this issue of FM, Ron Van Maarschalkerweerd meets two young fashion designers who have all it takes to conquer the catwalk. Having burst on the scene two decades ago together with Charles, Ron is positive that we finally have a new breed of Maltese designers who are set to make the local catwalks spark and sizzle.
In this issue, we also meet Kelly Schembri. And what a talented girl she is – at just 25 years of age, Kelly is an established model in the UK and together with her girl group Monroe, she has just opened for The Noisettes and is putting the finishing touches on Monroe’s debut EP. Anna Gallo is yet another budding talent who uses her creativity to recycle unwanted items into interesting fashion accessories. How’s that for the three R’s. In this issue of FM, we also showcase the hottest beach trends, warm up for the London Olympics with winning sporty fashion, and celebrate the Queen’s diamond jubilee with a sparkly fashion spread. Read on and enjoy.
COVER CREDITS Photographer Kris Micallef w: www.krismicallef.com Stylist Luke Engerer w: www.lukeengerer.com Hair Charlene, Roots Hair Salon, Tel: 2745 4164 Make-up Nicola Powell, Tel: 9986 5369 Model Stephanie C from SO Management w: www.somanagement.eu
CONTENTS
11 Bright young things
Two decades ago, Charles and Ron wrote the first chapter for Maltese fashion. How has the situation changed, asks Ron Van Maarschalkerweerd as he meets two young fashion designers.
15 The age of Madonna
With Madonna’s record-breaking MDNA tour currently sweeping through Europe, it’s time to thank her for adjusting our attitudes, first on sex, then on religion, and now on the most controversial topic of all: ageing. Sean Patrick Sullivan does just that.
19 Alt, who goes there?
An architect specialising in ecofriendly designs, Anna Gallo has turned her profession into art. Daniela Brockdorff taps at her keyboard.
22 Beach chic
Summer is here and Kira Drury sizzles at the beach in these gotta have ‘em pieces.
25 Street style
Romina Farrugia watches a lake show in Como.
Editor Anthony P. Bernard Email: anthony@fmlifestyle.com
28 Look back in anger
Anger is a primitive emotion which has survived into our times. But it’s not all bad – you just need to control it, says Anne Marie Spiteri.
33 Make don’t break
Lara Boffa treats her wardrobe to a spot of DIY.
47 Style stalker
Kira Drury’s summer is all about neon, florals and party fashion.
51 Kelly watch the stars
Consulting Editor Stanley Borg Email: stanley@fmlifestyle.com Design & Art Direction Porridge | www.weareporridge.com Email: hello@weareporridge.com Printing Progress Press All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
Multi-talented Kelly Schembri talks fashion, music and dance.
55 What I know about style Diandra Mattei gives FM some face time.
58 Where the streets have a name They come from the middle of nowhere, but Jon and Ken are definitely going somewhere.
For any information regarding editorial, promotion or advertising contact Tel: 00 356 2131 8522 00 44 20 3286 6373 Email: fm@madmediainternational.com FM is published by MADMEDIA International, Mezzanine West, Hadfield House, Library Street, Gibraltar and is distributed free with THE SUNDAY TIMES
Fashion
Bright young things Two decades ago, Charles and Ron wrote the first chapter for Maltese fashion. How has the situation changed, asks Ron Van Maarschalkerweerd as he meets two young fashion designers. Photos by Chris Sant Fournier
W
hen Charles and I created our first collections in the early 1990s, the Maltese fashion scene was virtually nonexistent. Putting together a show was no easy task and help in any shape or form was hard to find. Fast-forward to 2012 and we’re at the Mercedes Benz Malta Fashion Week, three days after the launch of our own new collection – the night at the Casino Maltese is dedicated to Malta’s new talent. It’s a collective show in which upcoming designers have the opportunity to show their work. After all these years, it finally looks like there is a new breed of designers ready to join us in our stride to establish a fashion scene on the island. I meet up with two very promising young designers to discuss their collections and future plans and to see if things have really changed or if the struggle to make it locally or internationally is still as tough as it was for us 20 years ago. On a warm evening in May, I meet Sef and Elisha at Angelica in Valletta, and before we drink our coffees we are already discussing the limitations of the local scene. Still, both are very positive about their recent experience during the Mercedes Benz Malta Fashion Week and hope there will be more opportunities for them to show their work. I tell the girls that they have the honour of being the first people to be interviewed by me and that it’s nice that for once I am the one asking the questions.
Ron: Charles and I have no design-related education and are almost completely self-taught. If you hadn’t studied abroad, would you still have become fashion designers? And do you think that nowadays, a designer can still make it without an education? Sef: I am convinced that I would still have gone into design and I believe that my studies have helped me a lot. Though I think it’s not impossible for a designer to make it without a design education. Elisha: A designer can still make it without an education. I feel that in some way, my studies have held me back as they teach you too many rules, so it’s easy to lose some of your creativity and get lost in the technicalities. But on the other hand I’ve learned many techniques, which have helped me a lot. Ron: After graduating you both moved back to Malta. Is Malta such a magnet or were there other reasons for moving back? Sef: I made the decision to move back very quickly – looking back I think it was a little too quick. The main reason I came back to Malta was that financially it was too hard living abroad on my own.
FM June 2012 - 11
Fashion
Golden girls Elisha: After six years studying abroad, I really felt like coming back to Malta. Ron: Do you have plans to leave Malta? Sef: Yes – although I haven’t decided yet, I will probably move back to England to further my studies or to find a job in the fashion industry. I love the energy that you can find in a city like London, even though the competition there is very tough and there are thousands of others trying to make it just like you. Elisha: I am intrigued by most northern European cities so if I would ever leave Malta again I would love to go to Stockholm, Berlin or Amsterdam. I would prefer it to London for instance. London is too hectic for me. It’s clear that both girls still find it daunting to establish themselves as designers locally, mainly due to fact that there is not much of an industry and the Maltese audience is still not very supportive of local design. I agree with them – in many countries local design is put on the forefront and is promoted and preferred over foreign design. It is also considered much cooler to buy new quirky labels than the usual big names in fashion. Over here unfortunately this is still the opposite. I ask the girls in what way has their background inspired their work. Sef: I love Malta and am definitely inspired by Maltese culture – I think the influence is visible in my work. Elisha: My latest collection was a bit of a protest against the local dress culture. I wanted to create something that moved away from the opulent and
heavily decorated glitzy styles that we see all around us. Ron: We always felt that, to a certain extent, we have benefitted from the fact that we’re based on a small island – we were always very visible to anyone interested in local fashion design. Do you think that coming from a small island is an advantage or disadvantage? Sef: I don’t see how that makes a difference as most people will judge my work and wouldn’t really care where I’m from. Elisha: I agree with Sef, although the fact that there is not much competition here might make it easier to stand out. Then again, the size of the island is definitely a disadvantage in our line of work. Ron: If you had an unlimited budget, where would you show your next collection? And who would be the first model to hit the catwalk? Sef: I would definitely show in Paris and if I could choose I would bring Frida Kahlo back to life and she would open my show. Elisha: New York would be the city I would choose to show my new collection and the first model on the catwalk would be Francis Bean Cobain, daughter of Courtney Love and the late Kurt Cobain. As our evening comes to an end and we say goodbye I realise that 20 years have gone by since Charles and I started out. And yet nothing much has changed – if you want to succeed, you have to do it on your own terms and fight for your dreams and to change attitudes. I am pretty sure that these young ladies will do just that and much more.
Elisha Camilleri Elisha studied at the Manchester Metropolitan University and completed a sandwich degree in Fashion Design and Technology BA (Hons). The course covered design and development, garment technology and fashion marketing. Elisha also worked as a designer at an overseas renowned sportswear company.Elisha has just shown her latest collection at the Mercedes Benz Malta Fashion Week. Her main inspirations for this collection were Lisbeth Salander and garments worn by monks and nuns. For this collection she emphasised advanced pattern cutting to construct the garments, though always keeping a simple silhouette.
Sef Farrugia Sef graduated with a BA (Hons) Fashion from Ravens Bourne University. She also studied at the London College of Fashion and completed a national diploma in arts and design at MCAST. Sef worked for designer Giles Deacon and won the One to Watch award in the UK. She has just shown her first collection at the Mercedes Benz Malta Fashion week and will be showing at Southsea Fashion Week in the UK in August this year. For her latest collection Sef drew inspiration from films set in British colonial times, patterned tiles and legendary fashion editor Anna Piaggi.
Beautiful victory Parfois has won the 2012 edition of the ‘Best Brand of the Year’ in Portugal by marketing magazine Marketeer. Parfois won the Fashion & Beauty category where it competed with brands such as Fashion Clinic, L’Oreal, Luis Onofre, Moda Lx and Sacoor Brothers. Parfois has dedicated its latest recognition to all its employees who strive to offer customers the best fashionable accessories at the best quality and value. Parfois is represented in Malta by Arkadia Marketing Ltd. Arkadia would like to congratulate Parfois for its latest milestone and is looking forward to extend the brand’s success in Malta. Parfois is available in Malta at Republic Street, Valletta and at Arkadia Commercial Centre, Victoria, Gozo.
12 - FM June 2012
Icon
T H E AG E O F M A D O N NA With Madonna’s record-breaking MDNA tour currently sweeping through Europe, it’s time to thank her for adjusting our attitudes, first on sex, then on religion, and now on the most controversial topic of all: ageing. Sean Patrick Sullivan does just that. Here’s a rather recent example. There was almost zero press for the actually excellent MDNA album, one of many reasons why it’s the lowestselling of her entire career. But if you were Madonna... had very little time to rehearse for your tour... which reckoned to make you richer than any album ever could... and you already owned one of the world’s most profitable song catalogues... would you really want to spend what precious few hours you had on poorly lit talk-show appearances no one will ever remember? That’s the unspoken genius that keeps Madonna on top whether we like it or not: her solitary orbit, her longterm thinking, her bad-girl coup in claiming one of the year’s worst-selling albums and best-selling concerts at exactly the same time.
I
absolutely, positively, sometimes embarrassingly, adore everything about Madonna.
I adore her music and magic – her subtle yet undeniably transcendent gift for crafting richly textured, decadedefining gems of pure pop pleasure. Songs and videos like Open Your Heart, Like a Virgin, and Like a Prayer defined entire childhoods and generations, much like I Wanna Hold Your Hand (by The Beatles) before her and perhaps only Teenage Dream (by Katy Perry) after. That her more recent tracks have failed to reach the same iconic status doesn’t mean that she has lost her touch, but only that the ephemeral nature of digitally delivered music has weakened the power of pop to stick. I also adore Madonna’s style and substance, her rapacious insistence upon the absolute best of everything – hair, make-up, wardrobe, injectable fillers, exercise routines, macrobiotic diets, whatever it takes – when it really matters, balanced by her refusal to wear anything other than track suits when it doesn’t. Operating on the level of mythical creature (see: Harlow, Jean) rather than cheap celebrity (see: Kardashian, assorted varieties), Madonna knows that real life doesn’t matter. So, yes, perhaps her worked-out arms look too muscular. And yes, when she’s just gotten a face full of fillers, she certainly does look
puffy for a couple of weeks, although not much more than the bloating we experience after a weekend of too much salt or starch or liquor. But when there’s a camera on, none of that matters. Because Madonna exists not for you, not for me, not even for herself, but for the lens, which renders her immortal, iconographic, the synthesis and summation of Hollywood’s platinum-blonde archetype. Even when she’s a brunette. That’s right. A century from now, if we’re still around and capable of accessing our popular-cultural past, no one is going to notice, much less care, what Madonna looked like dropping Rocco and Lourdes off at Kabbalah class. That’s because we’ll all be riveted to the electrifying videos for Vogue, Erotica, Human Nature, Give It to Me, and Girl Gone Wild, all of which demonstrate a command of kinesis almost supernatural in its poise. Interestingly, we may also find ourselves unable to determine the actual chronology of these performances. That’s the very definition of icon, myth, legend. Most of all, I adore and admire Madonna’s brilliance and brattiness; her willingness to fail, to push, to take risks, to try something new simply because it’s there and she can; her resistance to being contained by convention, controlled by convenience, corrupted by popularity. In fact, she often rejects these values outright.
Yet, despite all my love for her, something about Madonna – or, more precisely, our collective opinion of Madonna – has always exasperated and flabbergasted me. For a woman, artist, and entertainer who seems to have it all, and who can prompt curiosity like none other, we’ve never actually accepted, much less embraced, her. For example, the MDNA tour recently debuted in Tel Aviv and is currently working its way across Europe. A soldout smash, one might consider its fiscal triumph indicative of generally positive public opinion. Yet mainstream critical response – as for her recent album of the same name – has been swift and harsh: it’s too violent, confusing, and arrogant. It’s too... something else. And that something else, even when never said, sounds something like: she’s too old. There’s also the evolved version of this complaint, which is that Madonna is simply no longer relevant, as though relevant means new, young, popular, or likeable. It doesn’t. When someone is relevant, they are an actual contribution to the matter at hand, someone who makes a difference. With that in mind, let’s compare Madonna (who is no longer considered relevant) to Rihanna (who very much is). Rihanna may be very popular right now, but she isn’t the least bit relevant. No one is copying her look or FM June 2012 - 15
Icon sound. She’s a cipher, disposable and interchangeable, with nothing to say or share. Make no mistake: despite Rihanna’s status as a best-selling artist whose rags-to-riches narrative has been peppered and punctuated by black eyes, Twitter melt-downs, and (alleged) free-falls into substance abuse, it’s difficult to underestimate Rihanna’s contribution to popular culture. If she’s no longer performing when she’s 53, it won’t be due to her age, but rather to her implosive worthlessness, a state known all too well by pornstars past their prime, a state into which most reality stars free fall, toward oblivion. All in all, it may be Rihanna who talks that talk. But it’s Madonna’s confessions on a dance floor that provide openings for us to debate who and what really matters. Once, she was a lightning rod for all of our anxieties about sex, race, and faith. Now, whether she likes it or not, and something tells me she doesn’t, she’s the basis for a whole new conversation – this time about age. It goes something like this. First, she’s too old to keep performing, a statement rarely made about U2, Sting, Bruce Springsteen, or The Rolling Stones. And
one expertly avoided by Cher, Bette Midler, Celine Dion, and other female performers who put themselves out to pasture in Las Vegas.
Madonna exists not for you, not for me, not even for herself, but for the lens, which renders her immortal, iconographic, the synthesis and summation of Hollywood’s platinum-blonde archetype. Even when she’s a brunette.
Then, she needs to stop trying to be sexy. Although we find male athletes, entertainers, even politicians sexy all the time, well into their 60s. And as if sex appeal has an expiration date. Variation: she’s a mother now. She doesn’t matter anymore. As if someone else matters more. As if newer is always better. As if our reproductive window of opportunity, always shorter for women than men, determines our value. Hard-working, fashion-forward, selfexpressed, sexually liberated women of the world, the current focus may be on Madonna. But, as you grow older, wiser, better, you may find yourselves confronted by the same anxieties and frustrations, imposed upon you whether you like it or not. So, when you find yourselves minimised, marginalised, given no room to move or to grow, simply because you’ve made the mistake of getting too old to get knocked up, just ask yourselves this: what would Madonna do? Act accordingly, and chances are, you’ll do just fine.
16 - FM June 2012
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Jewellery
Alt ,WHO GOES THERE? An architect specialising in ecofriendly designs, Anna Gallo has turned her profession into art. Daniela Brockdorff taps at her keyboard. Photos by Alberto Favaro
“Creativity is not simply about aesthetics and innovation,” she tells me. “It’s also about responsibility. We must consider the resources used to produce objects and then make them work.” For Anna, creativity means a maximum aesthetic result with a minimum use of resources – reusing old objects is one way to do it. “I love giving new life to objects whose potential has been phased out by the speed of consumption that characterises modern society today – such objects fascinate me,” Anna tells me. Pressing Ctrl + N when using a computer opens a new window. Likewise, through her designs, Anna wants to open windows to provide a fresh vista upon items which have outlived their function. An object should be made to rise from the ashes to become something precious, totally new and fascinating. The process starts when individuals, companies, factories, schools or even ministries pass on their old keyboards to Anna. When enough are gathered, the whole is divided into parts and each piece is given a new life. The part of the whole, the fragment, utterly amazes Anna.
M
ost probably, in one way or another, we have all been quite well-informed about environmentfriendly measures.
Yet most likely, we still tend to find the second R in the three-R sequence of Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle a tiny bit problematic. What can you do with a broken chair? Should you turn a time-worn kettle into a garden pot? And how on earth can you reuse a television set whose days are numbered? When something, let’s say a keyboard, is only fit (at best) for recycling, who can possibly reuse it and how? Anna Gallo, creator of the Ctrl + N brand, has the answer. An architect by profession, Anna Gallo is an Italian living in Malta. Specialising in sustainable development and ecofriendly designs, Anna has ingeniously found a way to reuse the much tapped-upon keys of your keyboard. She creates rings, cufflinks, key-chains, pendants, brooches and earrings out of keyboards others cannot and do not want to use any more. Meeting Anna, she gives me a remarkable insight into her work.
Her inspiration comes from 20th century architect Aldo Rossi who had a penchant for the fragment with its vivid link to a past that enables the process of decontextualisation, reinterpretation and ultimately reuse. Each key is thoroughly disinfected, then together with the joint at the back, is worked upon a mount to create the jewellery needed. What happens to the remainder of the keyboard? It is then transformed by Anna into a coffee tray. Depending on the message they would like to communicate, Anna’s clients choose letters, symbols or a combination of keys for their design. Anna does not mass-produce – each item is custom-made. Anna also creates inserts for t-shirts, jackets, bags, shoes, stoles and belts. The possibilities are endless and all is done by hand. She often likes to think about the message that lies behind the choice of keys. An F5 ring (F5 is used to refresh a window) was chosen as a reminder not to lose time while a pair of earrings combining Ctrl and Esc (used to open the Start menu) symbolises a decision to start an entirely fresh chapter. Once, Anna tells me, someone opted for a SHIFT and delete combination, a function that permanently deletes an item. She did not ask for a reason to this choice but as an additional gift, she gave this person an F10 key (SHIFT + F10 opens a shortcut menu for the selected item) to perhaps someday replace the delete key.
FM June 2012 - 19
Jewellery
Asking about her future plans, I learn that Anna has been awarded a research project in sustainable design from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Italy in conjunction with the University of Malta. The aim of the project will be to develop a new line of green products made from reusing old advertising posters gathered from the streets of Malta. Among these products, Anna plans on creating envelopes, packaging and bags for gifts. She would then, of course, use these same designs to even package her own jewellery. In the long run, Anna hopes to make consumers more aware of the eco-quality of the product they’re consuming. Freeing the object from its traditional function implies the freeing of society from the clutches of the bad habit of compulsive consumption. The spreading of creativity in a person’s daily life is what Anna would like to see here in Malta – a small yet wonderful aesthetic revolution that has nothing to do with the throw-away society we tend to fuel.
20 - FM June 2012
Fashion
Beach chic Summer is here and Kira Drury sizzles at the beach in these gotta have ‘em pieces.
1.
2
3. 8. 9.
7. 5. 6. 4.
01. Tally Weijl bikini bottoms, €6.95 / 02. Tally Weijl bikini top, €12.95 / 03. Parfois fedora hat, €17.90 04. French Connection bag, €110 / 05. Mango shorts, €24.99 / 06. One-piece by The Doll’s House, €34.99 07. French Connection dress, €233 / 08. Parfois sandals, €24.90 / 09. Tally Weijl bikini top, €7.95
150 years of legendary parties For the past 150 years, Bacardi rum has brought people together through legendary parties and great-tasting cocktails. Bacardi was founded in Santiago de Cuba on February 4, 1862, when Don Facundo Bacardí Massó purchased a small distillery. After years of experimenting, Bacardi revolutionised the spirits industry – the smooth spirit he created was the world’s first premium and mixable rum which helped usher in a cocktail culture that thrives today. The Bacardi brand is represented and distributed in Malta by P. Cutajar & Co. Ltd., San Gwann. To celebrate this anniversary, P. Cutajar is currently running an ongoing facebook competition on Bacardi Together Malta Facebook page, giving participants the opportunity to win 150 bottles of Bacardi.
22 - FM June 2012
Fashion
STREET S T Y L E Romina Farrugia watches a lake show in Como.
Ilknur
Ayako How would you define your style? Simple, delicate clothes that are also very feminine. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I like both winter and summer clothes. I tend to mix and match all the time so I might wear a summer dress in winter or boots in summer. Where will you go on holiday this summer? I am already on holiday here in Como and will visit Switzerland next week.
Maxime How would you define your style? Casual and practical. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I prefer winter clothes because I love cardigans and coats, but I don’t mind summer clothes either. Where will you go on holiday this summer? Bulgaria.
What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? I will take my What fashion items will you new, straw Fedora hat take with you on holiday? because it’s cool and I love this bag which I’m fashionable. wearing today and which I got yesterday from Como centre.
Elena How would you define your style? Practical and creative. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I prefer summer – it’s sunny, people are happy, you can wear what you want and no one will mind if you go crazy with colours or patterns. Where will you go on holiday this summer? The Dolomites, since I love the mountains and also because my family have a holiday house there. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? I will definitely take my white Toy watch because I’d feel lost without it.
How would you define your style? I don’t follow fashion but I have my own, free style that’s comfy but original. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I am Turkish and don’t really like winter so I definitely prefer summer clothes. Where will you go on holiday this summer? Spain for the tomato festival and Cambodia. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? Mini-skirts, shorts, dresses and team them up with the colourful necklaces I bought this season.
Fashionable aftertaste Cisk Excel, Malta’s first low-carbohydrate lager beer has teamed up with Debenhams store, located at The Point in Tigne, to offer something for him and for her. A special voucher on every Limited Edition Cisk Excel 50cl six-pack entitles you to €10 off with every €30 spend. When the offer is redeemed at Debenhams, you enter the chance of winning a €300 shopping spree every month. Terms and conditions apply. See base of pack for full details and visit www.facebook.com/ciskexcel FM June 2012 - 25
Fashion Follow us on Twitter
@FemmeMagazine80
Carlotta Marta How would you define your style? I have a casual style because I like to feel comfortable in my clothes and shoes. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I prefer summer clothes because they are fresh in fabric and colour. Where will you go on holiday this summer? Brighton, one of my favourite places ever. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? Many bracelets and bangles.
How would you define your style? I have a casual style and I also occasionally like to wear country style – in summer I like to wear denim shorts and checked shirts. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? Summer clothes because they are easier to wear and lighter in texture. Where will you go on holiday this summer? Sardegna – I love the sea there, the sun and swimming. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? My favourite hobo bag, a few scarves like the one I’m wearing and various pairs of earrings.
Rosario Valentina How would you define your style? Colourful and relaxed. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? I prefer summer clothes and comfortable summer shoes especially light sandals and flip flops. Where will you go on holiday this summer? It depends on how my studies go. When I get my results in July, I will decide if I will go on holiday or not. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? Many scarves which I like to wear as a kind of necklace like I’m wearing today.
How would you define your style? Casual – I like wearing jeans and fitted tops or shirts. Do you prefer summer or winter clothes? Summer clothes as one can show them off, unlike winter ones which are always hidden under some heavy jacket. Where will you go on holiday this summer? I haven’t decided yet, but if I do go, it will be somewhere fun with plenty of sun and sea. What fashion items will you take with you on holiday? Jewellery – I like to wear chains and bracelets by Morellato.
Style has a new meaning There are many reasons why women should be thankful for the welcome alternative in footwear trends. Maybe part of this shift is the result of the Duchess of Cambridge’s safe and pretty style which gave the lower heel the green light in fashion circles. Midi to lower heels are a more practical and comfortable alternative to towering heels. Bata’s style team has made sure that this season’s flexible collection is stylish and comfortable. Soft leather and high-tech soles guarantee comfort when walking. Rubber soles support the feet’s natural curvature and incorporate special lines of flexure to assist walking action. Take the cue from the Duchess of Cambridge and during the day, at least, rest your feet in the stylish collection of Bata’s flexible shoes. Bata is at the Point, Valletta and The Duke, Victoria-Gozo. 26 - FM June 2012
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LOOK BACK IN ANGER
Anger is a primitive emotion which has survived into our times. But it’s not all bad – you just need to control it, says Anne Marie Spiteri.
Find an isolated place where you can scream and shout to your heart’s content without piercing anyone’s eardrums and holler until you’ve had enough.
A
s a teenager, I lived on a diet of Italian television shows. Out of all the hours of rubbish that I imbibed, one particular scene remains firmly imprinted in my mind. It was from a television series revolving around a middleaged man with a sinking career whose wife had abandoned him with three unruly children to raise. In an episode where things were going particularly badly, the protagonist suddenly started throwing assorted appliances from his balcony, while screaming to inquisitive passers-by that he had completely lost it.
has steadily decreased. The pathway which translates a bunch of electrical signals into an angry reaction has however remained firmly entrenched in our brain.
Back then, I watched this outburst with a mix of fascination, unease and the conviction that such a major meltdown was unlikely to happen in real life. Now that I’m older, wiser and regularly drive across the island on a Monday morning, I know that my comforting conclusion was wrong.
In reality, good things can come out of anger. It can help release pent up frustrations and may also function as a warning sign which goes up when we are overworked, stressed or unhappy about some aspect of our life. Most importantly, anger is one emotion which is strong enough to move us to act and try to change whatever is upsetting us.
Surveys and studies support my observations. A 2008 UK survey of 2,000 people revealed that 12 per cent of the interviewees had experienced trouble controlling their anger. Across the pond, a US study showed that about 16 million Americans are affected by an anger disorder characterised by unjustified fits of rage. When the stresses of modern life and the origins of humankind are taken into account, these findings are frankly unsurprising. Anger is in fact a basic human emotion which has been hardwired in us since the beginning of time and is doubtless one of the emotions which helped man survive and evolve. Anger triggers the fight-or-flight response, which results in adrenaline release and allows us to defend ourselves or flee from dangerous situations. While the fight-or-flight response was probably what got cavemen through each day, with the rise of civilisation the need for this natural reaction
28 - FM June 2012
Yet we constantly wage war on anger, which is routinely presented as an exclusively negative emotion – this makes us feel guilty and ashamed when we lose our temper. The result is a vicious circle of selfreproach and failed attempts at self-control which can make you lose sight of the real issue while guaranteeing a hazardous build up of bottled up anger.
What tilts the balance one way or another is how we deal with our anger. The bad ways of handling it often make the news. Naomi Campbell, for one, is known for her violent outbursts, which have often landed her in hot water. And we all routinely lose our temper and in so doing harm ourselves or the people around us. What makes anger so dangerous is that when it escalates beyond a certain point all logical reason switches off and we no longer remain in control of our actions. Consequently, it is also the emotion which is most likely to have a negative impact on our relationships. In addition, chronic anger has been associated with health conditions including high blood pressure, heart disease, stroke, gastrointestinal disorders and depression. All of this makes it a good idea to try managing our anger better. First, it is fundamental not to allow anger to build up
to a level at which we can no longer think straight. In order to do this, we need to learn to identify the physical signs. We might start breathing more rapidly, our face might become flushed and our heartbeat goes through the roof. When this happens, we need to calm down by taking slow, deep breaths and counting to 10 before saying or doing anything that we might regret. If the situation escalates, it is best to walk away and confront any issues at a later stage when we have calmed down. And once the case is closed, we must move on – there’s no need to mull over events which get our hackles up. Instead, it’s a good idea to distract ourselves with pleasant, calming thoughts. And if that doesn’t work, find an isolated place where you can scream and shout to your heart’s content without piercing anyone’s eardrums and holler until you’ve had enough. It might sound ridiculous, but it might turn out to be just what the doctor ordered. We also need to find a way of regularly ridding our body of the adrenaline which is released when we get angry. Running, walking or practising a sport are all effective means of channelling the residual energy while simultaneously reaping the benefits of physical activity. You may prefer to defuse stress through cooking or playing an instrument. In the end, it’s all good as long as it works for you. If you find that it’s not working and you can’t seem to control your anger, consider speaking to a professional who will help you work through any unresolved issues while tailoring anger management techniques to suit your needs. You’re sure to find that it’s worth the effort in the end – after all, it’s cheaper than throwing perfectly decent furniture from your balcony.
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MAKE, don’t BREAK
Lara Boffa is allergic to oranges. She’s also an interpreter, has always wanted a pet dog, can play the piano and is lost in six languages. She runs her own fashion blog at http://boffism.blogspot.com
Lara Boffa treats her wardrobe to a spot of DIY. Some don’t share my enthusiasm for sewing projects. They think that the cost of buying fabric for DIY projects is higher than the one they would have to pay to purchase a ready-made piece. That is true, unless you know where to get cheap (or even free!) fabric. My mother insists that markets are the place to get inexpensive fabric. When I went there myself, I quickly understood why. Textiles are not only cheaper than those in fabric stores, but most vendors also have a remainders section selling yards of material for a handful of euro. For instance, I bought entire yards of black fabric for €3. One of the many things I made include a black dip-hem skirt which I can’t wear enough. Charity shops, thrift stores, and local bazaars are havens for inexpensive textiles. Luckily for us, kind-hearted people donate fabrics to these stores that are then sold for way less than their original value. You might even score some authentic vintage paisley or floral print fabric if luck is on your side. Be prepared – you might need to rummage through endless, disorganised layers of fabric, but as we all know, nothing worth having comes easy.
I
think we all have that one quote that describes our personality to near perfection. In my case, it’s the following: ‘By some strange, unknown, inward urgency some people are not really alive unless they are creating.’ I can quite safely call myself a make-things-aholic. Given my tendency to make things – and added to the fact that I grew up watching my mother sitting at her sewing machine for hours – I knew that it was inevitable for me to develop a love for DIY and sewing projects. DIY projects are not only an excellent creative outlet, but they are also an inexpensive way of making new items from scratch or updating pieces that would have otherwise met your trash can.
Fabric stores are still a great place to find bargain textiles. They usually stock the widest variety of fabrics and it’s nearly impossible not to find the textile you are coveting. However, we have to be realistic. The likelihood of finding ridiculously priced fabrics here is significantly lower, but fabric stores also have discounted fabrics on sale that you should check out. Look out for sales and seasonal discounts, especially right before carnival period. So many people flock to fabric stores to buy material for carnival costumes, that fabric stores almost treat their clients to lower prices. Also, browse through all the sections at a fabric store – don’t just limit yourself to the fashion fabric section. Some textiles, like brocade and lace, might be found in the theatrical or homeware sections for a lower price.
I recently came up with this polka dot bandeau top using fabric I saved from an old dress which had lost its charm.
Shopping for cheap textiles online is probably the trickier route to choose. Not only do you have to make sure postage and packaging are worth the purchase, but you also have to keep in mind that you won’t be able to feel the fabric for its texture, weight, stretch or draping quality. In addition, it’s quite hard to tell whether the fabric being sold is damaged by simply looking at a photo. In such cases, reading the item listing is imperative. Keep your eyes open for all details, especially specifications on textile names like ‘tweed’ and ‘chiffon’. Then look up the fabric name and you should be better able to gauge its characteristics. ‘Re-purposing’ is one of my favourite words. Whenever I put pieces aside because they no longer tickle my fancy, the first thing I ask myself is whether I can use it for a DIY project. Whenever cutting the sleeves or adding embellishments does not do the trick, I always save the fabric for later projects. I recently came up with this polka dot bandeau top using fabric I saved from an old dress which had lost its charm. Polka dots are such a timeless print, so since the fabric was in an excellent condition, I decided to reuse it and make this bandeau top instead. I saved myself the time, the money and the effort of hitting the shops and buying a ready-made one.
FM June 2012 - 33
Fashion
Olympic Fashion We’ve come over all sporty: you don’t have to work out to work these Sporty Luxe lovelies.
Parfois, €22.90
Tally Weijl, €2.95
French Connection, €265
Tally Weijl, €12.95
French Connection, €35.00 The Dolls House, €18.00 Mango, €12.99 Parfois, €22.90
This roll rocks
Cinnabon, maker of the world’s most famous cinnamon rolls have launched their second branch in Sliema, located on Level 2 of the Plaza Shopping Centre. The Honourable Tonio Fenech inaugurated the event. Cinnabon was well received by the Maltese public and tourists alike. This encouraged Transmed Resources Ltd. franchisee of Cinnabon, to open three outlets in a short span of time. The strength of Cinnabon also lies in the product itself. Its distinctive aroma, the freshly baked product and the experience of seeing the whole entertaining process have proven to be the main ingredients of success. Mr Shembesh, Malta’s Managing Director of Transmed Resources Ltd., said, “It is a great pleasure for us to open our third outlet at the Plaza Shopping Centre, as Plaza will always remain the heart of Sliema. We would like to thank Mr Lionel Lapira and the management of Plaza for their assistance and ongoing support.”
36 - FM June 2012
Photography - Kris Micallef, www.krismicallef.com Creative director / Stylist - Luke Engerer, www.lukeengerer.com Model - Stephanie C from SO Management, www.somanagement.eu Hair - Charlene from Roots Hair Salon, 2745 4164 Illustration - Hello Jon, www.hellojon.com Make-up - Nicola Powell, 9986 5369
Bershka jacket - €19.99 / Esprit chinos - €69.95 / Bata shoes - €115.00
Accessorize swimsuit - €43.00 / Monsoon shirt - €54.00 / Esprit belts - €17.95 (each) / Carpisa bag - €29.90 / Gauda at Sliema shoes - €59.00
Bershka bra top - €7.99 / Bershka top - €19.95 / Peacocks skirt - €16.00 / Tally Weijl bag - €15.95
Tally Weijl jeans - €25.95 / Mango top - €24.99 / Gauda at Sliema shoes - €59.00
French Connection dress - €99.00 / Bata shoes - €55.00
Peacocks t-shirt - €10.50 / Mango shorts - €29.99 / Gauda at Sliema shoes - €79.00
Style
STYLE STALKER
Kira Drury’s summer is all about neon, florals and party fashion.
French Connection, €123.00
French Connection, €43.00
Emporio Gozo & Plaza, Sliema, €59.90
Beyonce
Mexx, €32.95
In bloom Summer brings a lot into our fashion lives, from maxi dresses and gladiator sandals to tan-lines and this summer’s most wanted trend – florals. I’ve been doing some style research (such happy hours) on some hot celeb looks for inspiration.
Mexx, €29.95
Mexx, €25.95
Pinterest So we’re all familiar with the usual suspects Facebook, Tumblr and Twitter. But I’m far more excited about new supersite Pinterest. Since 87 per cent of Pinterest users are girls, this is indeed one for the ladies. Pinterest first appeared on the radar earlier this year and allows users to ‘pin’ their favourite images to boards and share them with their friends and followers. Now with more than 10 million users, its following is building on a daily basis. It’s also a great way to save all your fave fashion images in one place for quick reach inspiration. And it’s also pretty exclusive – you have to request an invite – so it’s got that whole special vibe to it too. See you online.
Neon nights This summer it’s all about the glow – and we’re not talking tans. Colour goes super-pop in electrifying neon. Go full power in a mini dress or if that’s a tad too OTT opt for an accessory or mix separates. This trend doesn’t stop at clothing and accessories – the beauty world has also caught the neon bug. I’m loving strong eye-shadows and quirky nail varnish and these super shades look amazing with a tan – bonus.
FM June 2012 - 47
Fashion
Carpisa, €22.90 each
Oh Marc Let’s face it – we all love a bit of fashion drama. Which explains why, when I came across Marc Jacobs’s new A/W campaign shots, I thought I had died and gone to fashion heaven and just had to share. Jacobs casts Marie Piovesan and Marte Mei Van Haaster to front his fall 2012 campaign. Shot by Juergen Teller and styled by Alister Mackie, the images beautifully blur the lines between fantasy and reality – love it.
French Connection, €37.00
Party fashion
Emporio Gozo & Plaza, Sliema, €89.90
Hot tans, glittering pools, frilly drinks and beautiful people – summer is definitely the season to party. Stand out in these must-have items.
French Connection, €69.00 Carpisa, €19.90
Lilo’s back She’s had her fair share of bad luck, but it looks like Lindsay Lohan is back and this time she means business. She’s been cast to play the iconic Elizabeth Taylor for TV biopic Liz and Dick. Filming is underway in LA and takes us back to the Swinging Sixties with tons of fab retro fashion. Lindsay has a whopping 66 outfits including swimsuits, leopard print, jewels, oversized shades – it’s a style retrospect. Check out the very first on-set photos of Lindsay Lohan as Elizabeth.
48 - FM June 2012
Emporio Gozo & Plaza, Sliema, €64.90 Emporio Gozo & Plaza, Sliema, €79.90
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KELLY WATCH THE STARS Multi-talented Kelly Schembri talks fashion, music and dance.
K
elly Schembri, 25, has the kind of CV that would make an older woman envious.
Currently based in the UK, Kelly is an established commercial and beauty model working under the name of Kelly Stelfox. She is agency signed, internationally published and has worked alongside well-known artists such as Jay Sean, Keane and K’naan. Kelly is also a singer and songwriter – she made her debut at last year’s Malta Eurovision Song contest with Love Me Like Your Money (Borg/Lundholm/ Rydemark). The song generated great interest on the island and in Europe and had over 100,000 YouTube hits within the first few weeks running up to the contest. She was then nominated for Best Female Artist at the Malta Music Awards 2011, where she performed Kleptomaniac (Borg/Lundholm/ Rydemark). Her recent collaboration with Jjoy, Love Hangover (Borg/ Lundholm/Rydemark) made it to the top spot in the Bay Radio Music Charts. Kelly and her girl group Monroe – they recently opened for The Noisettes – are currently putting the finishing touches to their debut EP. That’s not all. Kelly comes from a dance and drama background. When she was 17, she won a scholarship to a performing arts college in the UK and graduated three years later with a Diploma in Performing Arts.
She appeared in the Channel 5 series Hanrahan Investigates and The Hot House, dances for Sky Sports 3’s UCMMA and will be appearing in the upcoming movle Highway to Dhampus. Q: When did you move to the UK? A: When I was 16, I entered a reality television talent contest in Malta called Bravi. Every week we had to act, sing and dance to keep our place in the contest and in the show’s final I was awarded a scholarship to a performing arts college in the UK. Q: What came first in your life – music or fashion? A: Music came first. I started taking dance classes at The Alison White Dance Studios when I was four. I quickly fell in love with music and would spend hours playing music in my room and dancing to it. I would choreograph routines all day long and make all my friends learn them and join in. And every song I heard was my favourite song and I would sing the same song over and over again. Q: What fuelled your passion for fashion? A: Music showed me the way to fashion. Growing up, I was inspired by singers and what they wore. I believe that when an artist makes a great fashion statement, it can turn them into an icon. Madonna is a great example of someone who continuosly evolves and changes her image. FM June 2012 - 51
Wardrobe
Q: What did your wardrobe look like when you were young? A: I went through a lot of different phases, including a girly stage when everything in my wardrobe was frilly, and a tomboy stage, where everything was baggy. Then in my teens, I loved dressing in bold things. I look back at some of the things I wore and cringe – but at the time they made me feel good, and that’s what fashion is all about. Q: And what does it look like now? A: Now my wardrobe is quite classic. I like wearing very fitted things that make me feel sexy, but at the same time they have to be very classy with an edginess to them. Together with my girl group Monroe, I wear a lot of items from Beyonce’s House of Dereon line – it’s classy and edgy. We’ve also been given dresses by Quontum – I love these as they are bold, sexy and classy. Q: Do you plan your shopping trips carefully or are you a guerrilla shopper? A: When my mum visits, we have mad shopping trips together. However, if there’s an event coming up then I usually plan more carefully. Q: Do you remember your first fashion shoot? A: I was really lucky with my first shoot as it was for Asian Woman magazine – I work a lot for the magazine so I was familiar with the photographer, make-up artist and stylist. I remember it was on Hampstead Heath and it was a beautiful day to shoot. Q: What have been the highlights of your career to date? A: I have been very blessed so far and worked with some amazing people. The highlights of my modelling career were shooting for the cover of Asian Woman magazine alongside international superstar Jay Sean and playing the lead girl in Keane ft Knaans’s music video for Stop for a Minute. As for my singing career, being in the girl group ‘Monroe’ is a constant highlight and we’ve had great moments, such as opening for The Noisettes last year.
Kelly’s summer wardrobe My favourite fashion trends for this summer are wandering hemlines and faded neons. I’m also loving pastel metallics, marine shades and beaded sparkles as well as animal prints and tribal trends – I love feather earrings and anything with a Pocahontas feel.
52 - FM May June2012 2012
Performing my song Kleptomaniac at the 2011 Malta Music Awards was a lovely experience – meeting Billy Ocean backstage was amazing. Another highlight was being asked to be spokesperson for Malta for the Eurovision Song Contest last year – that was pretty special.
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Meta rċevejt l-ittra biex immur “ għall-breast screening ma ridtx naf. Mort għax insistew it-tfal. Qatt ma bsart li kienu se jsibuli kanċer. Qabduh kmieni, ħadt il-kura u issa rasi Meta rċevejt l-ittra biex rċevejtma l-ittra bieximmur immur mistrieħa.Meta Allaħares mortx! għall-breast għall-breastscreening screeningma maridtx ridtx Meta rċevejt l-ittra biex immur naf.naf. Mort għax insistew it-tfal. Mort għax it-tfal. Qatt Qatt Upon receiving theinsistew invitation għall-breast screening ma ridtxfor mama bsart li kienu bsart li kienusesejsibuli jsibulikanċer. kanċer. a free I immediately naf. mammogram Mort għax insistew it-tfal. Qatt Qabduh kmieni,ħadt ħadtil-kura il-kurauu issa rasi Qabduh kmieni, rasi ma bsart li kienu se sjsibuli kanċer. declined. My children’ insistence forced mistrieħa. Allaħaresma mamortx! mortx! mistrieħa. Allaħares ħadt il-kura u issa rasi meQabduh into it. kmieni, I was diagnosed with breast mistrieħa. Allaħares maitsmortx! cancer. Luckily itreceiving was in stage.forI Upon theinitial invitation Upon receiving the invitation for receiveda treatment, recovered and now free mammogram I immediately a free mammogram I immediately receiving theGod invitation for enjoyUpon peace of mind. forbid had Iforced declined. My children’ s insistence declined. My children’ s insistence forced a free mammogram I immediately not accepted me intothe it. Iinvitation. was diagnosed with breast me into I was diagnosed breast declined. Myit.children’ s insistencewith forced cancer. Luckily it was in its initial stage. I mecancer. into it. Luckily I was diagnosed breast it was recovered inwith its initial stage. received treatment, and now I cancer. Luckily it was in its initial stage. I received treatment, recovered and now enjoy peace of mind. God forbid had I received treatment, recovered and now enjoy peace of mind. God forbid had I not accepted the invitation. enjoy peace of mind. God forbid had I not accepted the invitation.
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Style Wise
TRUE COLOURS
Name: Diandra Mattei Age: 26
Photo by David ‘dp’ Attard
Profession: Make-up artist and nail technician
W H AT I K NOW A BOU T ST YLE
Make-up is all about enhancing the best features of your client. It’s not about using all the colours in the palette. I want the client to look like herself but on her very best day.
Diandra Mattei gives FM some face time. Andrea - photo by Kris Micallef
Make-up has always fascinated me. As a teenager, I was aware of my interest in make-up and used to look out for the latest make-up trends in magazines, check out the supermodel make-up looks and try to replicate them. However, I never really realised, back then, that you could have a career in make-up. In fact I focused my studies on becoming a beauty therapist and nail technician. Trying out make-up courses professionally came later on in my career.
I find inspiration in everything around me. In the end though, I look at the person who is sitting in front of me and see what would suit her best. I must admit that I like to achieve a clean beauty – not too done up but rather, a skin that glows in an effortlessly beautiful look. I guess I always set off with creating this natural look but again, depending on the client and on the job required, I throw in some tips and inspiration I catch on from the industry. The key to make-up for the day is a soft look with a radiant complexion. I love using airbrush make-up for the morning as it gives such a natural finish. Then at night, you can go heavier and bolder on the eyes.
When I started getting my first bookings I realised I was really enjoying making people look and feel good about themselves after applying their make-up. I was hooked from the very first job. Eventually when I was asked to do make-up for commercial photo shoots, I loved the idea of being able to create various looks for versatile jobs.
Since I love achieving a clear, flawless complexion, I can’t live without Mister Light by Givenchy – it is both a concealer and an illuminator that acts like a shadow chaser and revives the complexion by immediately reducing visible signs of fatigue.
In this line of work, be it private or commercial, every job is different – every client requires different attention and every creative director demands a specific style. It’s exciting and I’m glad I have pursued this childhood interest. My first shoot was for a foreign wedding magazine and I remember the creative director kept changing her mind about everything possible. I was so excited, confident and nervous at the same time. It wasn’t an easy start but I think it was a good way to start my career as a make-up artist in the fashion industry. I look at it as a great learning experience.
Dila - photo by Tonio
My personal make-up routine includes a good moisturiser, light foundation, mascara and natural lip-gloss for a daytime look. I do make an extra effort for a night out but that look would depend on the mood I’m in. I have a soft spot for smokey eyes though. Lombardi
FM June 2012 - 55
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Last word
Where the streets have a name
The men behind the label
They come from the middle of nowhere, but Jon and Ken are definitely going somewhere. Why did you start a clothing label? We realised that Malta did not have a brand that reflected the local lifestyle and music scene. Streetwear is supposed to be an expression of the life one lives, and consciously embracing what it is that makes that life the way it is. Malta has all these facets that make it a special little place. The sun, the sea, our summers, the nightlife, our colourful Mediterranean lifestyle – these are all aspects that tend to find their way through the artworks we use and the items we create. Streetwear is about building one’s clothing identity bit by bit, item by item, and Malta deserves that kind of brand. Where is the ‘Middle of Nowhere’? It’s right underneath your feet. It’s obviously a reference to Malta – this little island in the middle of the Med which many foreigners have no idea of its whereabouts. But really and truly the middle of nowhere could be anywhere. It’s that special place we all have and where we go to in order to be ourselves. When did you go public and what was the reaction? Our very first tee was produced in April 2008. At the time we were still toying with the idea and didn’t really expect it to become such a big part of our life. The stock sold out easily to a crowd which was very music oriented, and that was only natural. Being both musicians, the artwork’s theme resonated easily with others as it was coming from an honest place within. From the very start we focused on quality materials, finely tuned prints, and detail – the positive reaction was staggering. 58 - FM June 2012
What inspires you? Initially music was our top inspiration. As we moved along we started taking up aspects of our island life and incorporate them in the Fat Gold theme. We are most definitely inspired by the different people who contribute to the scene – the bands, artists, skaters, Malta BMX crew, and all the people who have become friends and part of what we call the ‘Fat Gold Fam’. How does your Summer 2012 collection fit the Maltese summer? This collection was tailor-made for our hot summers which might start surrounded by concrete and tarmac, then develop during the late hours of the day on a beach, fizzle out in a nightclub and maybe watch the sun come up as the hangover starts to set in. This summer, we have a whole range of caps, t-shirts, tote bags for the ladies and a neat little FG logo keychain to keep your keys company.
Name: Jon Age: 31 Profession: Graphic designer and illustrator Name: Ken Age: 32 Profession: Architectural technician Who designs what? The direction of a new collection is a heavily discussed issue as we work on it. The actual designs, save the collaborations for the Artist Series, are all done by Jon. Phrases we use on artworks might sometimes just pop in our heads as we brainstorm (read ‘fool around’) when we’re working on a collection. The colours we use are generally dictated by the theme and the artwork itself. We tend to prefer a monochromatic approach using basic colours as a basis to work with and upon. It’s not something that just happened – we consciously prefer that look for the brand.
What’s your plan to conquer the (fashion) world? We’re doing it step by step, contact by contact, and on our own terms. We know we’re a little fish in a whole sea of labels and brands, and we know our style might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but that’s the whole point – we’re cool with that.
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Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone (Marketing) tel: 8007 2387
scholl.com.mt TM
POCKET BALLERINA Foldable, easy to carry in your handbag Late night party emergencies Driving to work without damaging shoes After long days in high heels When travelling light
Available from Scholl Foothealth Centres, Suffolk (Valletta), Abela’s Health & Beauty Centre (Gozo), supermarkets and leading pharmacies
experts since 1904