Florals in bloom A New York minute
Spring fashion special The return of John Galliano
WELCOME Admittedly, we do love a bit of winter layering. But then, it does get a bit too much – when you don’t even know what shirt you’re wearing underneath your second shirt, cardi and coat, you know you’ve maxed your layering credit. Which is why we always tend to go a bit overboard when celebrating the return of spring.
from the Big Apple with an interview with Nancy Forman, the woman who has helped revolutionise the way we accessorise. Fashion stylist and blogger Gayle Zerafa Cutajar analyses John Galliano’s first collection after a two-year hiatus and Lara Boffa tours London’s vintage markets. And while Kira Drury dusts off her sandals and organises her spring wardrobe, Romina Farrugia gives us a dose of street style from our very own capital. Read on and enjoy.
Stylist Kira Drury Make-up Diandra Mattei using Givenchy m:7982 8414
Sean Patrick Sullivan, our North American correspondent, checks in
Hair Mikaela Borg Barthet @ Pampered by Stella Model Stephanie Hodgkins wearing Orsay mint dress, €49.95 Parfois brooch, €6.90 New Look coral heels, €34.90
CONTENTS
March 2013 Confessions of four shopaholics
Christina Goggi finds a cure – or does she – for her retail addiction when she meets another three shopaholics.
10 The fall and rise of John Galliano It’s been two years since John Galliano’s famous outburst. Gayle Zerafa Cutajar celebrates the return of a master.
13 Accessory to market New York City-based accessory-industry consultant Nancy Forman doesn’t just help designers grow their businesses. Thanks in part to her work, the entire category is shifting, and all for the better – if you love a good find. Sean Patrick Sullivan reports.
17 Style stalker It’s a new season and Kira Drury springs into action.
20
Market girl
Lara Boffa stretches her budget in London.
Photographer Kris Micallef w: www.krismicallef.com Assistant Photographer Nicky Scicluna w: www.nickyscicluna.com
In this issue of FM, we invest in the latest trends – from florals to pastels and white, it’s all here.
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COVER CREDITS
27
A spring in your step
A new season has bloomed – FM airs your closet with fresh colours and patterns.
43
Street style
Romina Farrugia looks for new trends in the old streets of Valletta.
45
Notes on style
Fashion is music to model and singer Corinna Baldacchino’s ears.
47
What I know about style
What’s behind the make-up for Chantal Busuttil?
48
Capital fashion
FM tries out some trends from London Fashion Week AW13/14.
50
Moments in time
Editor Anthony P. Bernard Email: anthony@fmlifestyle.com Consulting Editor Stanley Borg Email: stanley@fmlifestyle.com Design & Art Direction Porridge | www.weareporridge.com Email: jon@weareporridge.com Printing Progress Press
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
Emerging Maltese photographer Darren Agius has been awarded at international level. Here’s a close shot of him.
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Wardrobe
Confessions of four shopaholics Christina Goggi finds a cure – or does she – for her retail addiction when she meets another three shopaholics.
I
must confess that, the moment I maxed my plastic on a pair of YSL boots – a treat I’m not accustomed to – I experienced overwhelming happiness spiked with a shot of guilt. “I work hard,” I told myself. “They’re gorgeous and I will never get to see a pair like this again.” “It’s just this one time,” I reassured myself. “And anyway, it’s my last treat for this year.” But I know it won’t be. Recently I was forced to watch Confessions of a Shopaholic by a friend of mine and I just couldn’t help noticing some of me in the protagonist, Rebecca Bloomwood. I might not buy the most expensive labels, but I think I have what it takes to be accepted to a shopaholics anonymous meeting. But then, is it just me or is this addiction to retail something which, like some gorgeous arm candy, comes wrapped around women’s arms? So there you go – you have my confession. But here are three more which you can judge as guilty or not.
“I just need to have them even if they don’t fit me.”
Christina Falzon Vidal 22, Marketing Assistant On a scale from one to 10 – 10 being the highest – how would you grade yourself as a shopaholic? I think eight… or nine? No, let’s say eight… How often do you go shopping? I’m addicted to online shopping, especially from eBay and Asos. I also go shopping once every fortnight. But if window shopping counts, I would say that I shop every day. What do you usually buy? Shoes are always the number one item on my list. I also love getting new accessories. Ever went over your budget? Oh yes. There was this expensive bag I had been obsessed with for a while which was way above my budget – but then, the price was reduced so I just had to have it. The discounted price still meant I had to go about €150 over my usual budget, but I couldn’t resist. I even have a money box called ‘Louis Vuitton Bag’ in which I’m saving up slowly, but surely, for my dream LV white bag.
Ruth Vella 24, English lecturer On a scale from one to 10 – 10 being the highest – how would you grade yourself as a shopaholic? I would give myself a nine. How often do you go shopping? Every week. The only time I don’t shop is when I’m flat broke. What do you usually buy? I have a weakness for shoes. Ever went over your budget?
Every time! I usually go over my budget by about €50 – but as soon as I realise I’m passing the point of no return, I run off home. Ever bought items you didn’t really need? Oh yes. Handbags, dresses, shoes – anything. Ever got an item that wasn’t in your size? When it comes to clothes, no. But shoes are a different story – it’s not the first time that I’ve bought shoes which don’t fit me well. It’s like I just need to have them even if they don’t fit me.
Ever bought items you didn’t really need? Very often. I’ll be window shopping with my sister and I see a pair of shoes which I just have to get my hands on. At least I get to split the cost with my sister as we’re almost the same size. Ever got an item that wasn’t in your size? It’s not the first time I’ve bought a pair of shoes a size smaller than mine because it would be the only one left – I then take them to the shoemaker so that he enlarges them a little. This also happens with clothes – if I like something but the only size left is smaller than mine, I still buy it and use it as an incentive to diet. Even worse, I sometimes buy a top I don’t even like that much to try to cheer myself up for not finding anything I really like – that, or I end up indulging in comfort food. FM March 2013 - 7
Fashion
Mariel Sacco 33, Senior Manager on Communications, Evaluation and Training On a scale from one to 10 – 10 being the highest – how would you grade yourself as a shopaholic? I’ll give myself a conservative rating – 15. How often do you go shopping? I generally buy something every week – be it by physically going to the shops or online. Sometimes, nay, most times, I buy something online on alternate days. What do you usually buy? Clothes, definitely, and anything that goes into making an outfit stand out like shoes, bags and accessories. I usually have a whole outfit already figured out in my mind when I go shopping and I keep trawling the shops until I find all the bits and pieces. Sometimes, I start by finding a t-shirt or a dress online and then build the rest of the outfit by going around the shops, until the online purchase is delivered. Ever went over your budget? Funnily enough, I don’t think it has actually ever happened. Even though I admit to buying something on a weekly basis, most times it’s just something small. For instance, I would just buy a statement necklace to dress up a couple of jumpers or blouses I already own. Also, since I’m prone to chronic shopping and to changing my style on a seasonal – if not monthly – basis, I’d much rather buy on-trend items for less than spend my pay check on just one item. Ever bought items you didn’t really need? By my loved ones’ standards, probably every time I go shopping. By my standards, never. You can never have too many white shirts, black dresses, caramel shoes, rings, necklaces and jackets.
“I usually have a whole outfit already figured out in my mind when I go shopping.” READ ON. JOIN OUR FEMME MAGAZINE PAGE 8 - FM March 2013
Ever got an item that wasn’t in your size? I try to avoid this as much as possible but I do make a concession for jumpers, some blouses and knits. I quite like the Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen look – petite figure wearing oversized knits. As long as the other items that make up the outfit are complementary in proportion – oversized clutch bag or satchel, oversized sunglasses, skinny jeans – I think the look can be quite effortlessly chic.
Summer beauty Get ready to glow this summer with the new radiance creator foundation by Deborah Milano. This illuminating foundation gives you a naturally radiant skin, long-lasting hydration and has an antifatigue effect. Enriched with pomegranate oil for an anti-oxidant and moisturising action, the new radiance creator foundation has an SPF15 formulated to minimise the risk of allergies. Contains antioxidant DH complex.
Healthy hair With the new Pantene Repair and Protect split ends will appear instantly mended, giving your hair lasting split end protection. The new Pantene Repair and Protect collection is the best ever Pro-V conditioning formula. It helps to restore hair strength against styling damage, protects against future styling damage and prevents the formation of split ends. Micro-nourishers help to lock in moisture deep down, working with your hair to leave it looking healthy and shiny, week after week. For local trade enquiries, call VJ Salomone (Marketing) on 8007 2387 or visit www.vjsm.com.mt
Photo by Steve Vella
Fashion
Gayle is a 29-year-old freelance fashion stylist, image consultant and fashion blogger. She is a lover of all things opulent and avant-garde. She is known for her eye for detail and for her ability to make an inexpensive outfit look extravagant. www.gaylefashionstylist.com
T h e fa l l a n d rise of John Galliano It’s been two years since John Galliano’s famous outburst. Gayle Zerafa Cutajar celebrates the return of a master.
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t had all been going well for John Galliano. In 1996, he left Givenchy, where he was head designer, and moved to Christian Dior – for the next 15 years, he ruled the catwalks with his unique designs.
Born in Gibraltar and brought up in South London, Galliano became one of the world’s foremost flamboyant and avant-garde designers. Kate Moss, Kyle Minogue, Madonna, Helena Christensen and Naomi Campbell were all close friends and he was keenly sought after for his exquisite clothes by the late Princess Diana, Carla BruniSarkozy and Natalie Portman. Galliano was named British Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1997, he shared the award with the late Alexander McQueen, his successor at Givenchy.
“There are also rumours that De la Renta will be naming Galliano as his successor.” 10 - FM March 2013
And who could forget the famous Dior newspaper dress designed by Galliano in 2000 for Sex and the City’s Sarah Jessica Parker? Then it all came crashing down in early 2011. While drinking at La Perle bar in the historic Rue Vielle du Temple in Paris, he was recorded making anti-Semitic remarks and verbally abusing a couple. When the 50-year-old was arrested in the Marais district, Dior quickly issued a statement, saying that, “Dior affirms with the utmost conviction its policy of zero tolerance towards any anti-Semitic or racist words or behaviour.” Soon after, he was suspended and eventually fired by Dior.
Two years later, Galliano has made his return with his first collection for Oscar de la Renta at New York fashion week. De la Renta’s usual conservative chic collection was matched with smoky make-up, Sara Caruana. by Valentina Lupo cinched-in waists and risqué looking black Photo organza outfits. The highlights also included hooded capes, big sleeves, printed dresses, brightly coloured ball gowns and the amazing hats that I just cannot get enough of. De la Renta was faced with some criticism for allowing Galliano to work on this collection – however, the Dominican designer defended his choice by saying that Galliano is the most talented designer he has ever met. Moreover, he said that Galliano worked very hard on his recovery and he deserved a second chance. There are also rumours that De la Renta will be naming Galliano as his successor – the two were introduced by US Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour. At the New York fashion week, De la Renta said he would be ecstatic if Galliano would stay on and work with the label. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see.
Eye magic Max Factor’s new Clump Defy by False Lash Effect Mascara builds astonishing volume without clumping up your eyelashes. With its specially designed curved brush the Clump Defy Mascara distributes the formula from the roots to the tip of the lashes, allowing the tips to remain flexible and natural while adding length. The unique brush is very dense with tightly spaced bristles to ensure the elimination of clumps. This gives your eyes a dramatic and professional effect. For local trade enquiries, call VJ Salomone (Marketing) on 8007 2387.
FM March 2013 - 11
floral print dress
â‚Ź14.99
Fashion
A c c e s s o ry to m a r k e t New York City-based accessory-industry consultant Nancy Forman doesn’t just help designers grow their businesses. Thanks in part to her work, the entire category is shifting, and all for the better – if you love a good find. FM North American correspondent Sean Patrick Sullivan reports.
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hen Nancy Forman walks through the doors of the buzzing Flower District agency atelier-slash-photography studio where we had agreed to meet, her energy – quietly intense, thoughtfully non-linear, vaguely professorial – can be immediately felt. The altogether serious effect is facilitated by the presence of two interns – each in their early twenties by the looks of them and therefore not quite as old as Forman’s career – juggling lattes, notebooks, and mobile devices, struggling to keep up with Forman’s pace, not to mention her multifaceted agenda. “You came here for an education and you’re about to get one, so sit down right next to me, and don’t hold back. Ask questions,” Forman tells her interns as she greets and hugs me. “This is supposed to be an interview with me, but when you’re done, you should interview him,” she says, pointing to me. “He knows a lot. Take advantage.” That, in a caramel-blonde, peasantbloused, platinum-sunglassed nutshell, is Forman: instantly and inevitably generating waves of advice, compliments, and opportunities to those in her orbit, even when she’s supposed to be the star of the show.
Fortunately, her humble and gregarious yet laser-sharp personality suits her role. As the founder, owner and director of The Accessory Think Tank, Forman consults with small- to large-sized designers of bags, shoes, jewellery, and other accessories, helping them develop their brands, collections, relationships, and (of course) profits.
cuff clinking against the stainless steel of my watch.
In the fashion industry, opinions – not to mention the consultants delivering them – are a dime a dozen. So what keeps Forman’s days and nights booked weeks in advance with names like Melvin, Joanna Maxham, and PONO by Joan Goodman?
According to Forman, accessoryindustry advancements used to favour the powerful and established. But the rush to display one’s wares online, and in some cases sell direct to consumer, represents a tectonic paradigmatic shift best enjoyed by emerging designers.
“You remember Bloomingdale’s, the department store? How could you not? It’s legendary! That’s where I got my start, first as an accessories buyer, then manager, then regional. And I always worked for the best people. The best and the smartest. Fifteen years of that taught me everything – and I do mean everything.”
“Do you have any idea how much it costs to stay represented by a showroom? Or to open your own store? Or to build a nice-looking booth for trade shows? I’ll give you a hint – it’s more than most start-ups have. Now, I can encourage young designers to focus upon developing their brand voice, their signature style, that something special that makes them worth finding online, whether by customers in London, Kiev, Saigon, or Warsaw.”
Forman eventually left Bloomingdale’s (on excellent terms, her Linkedin profile seems to indicate) to launch a line of beauty products before coming back to centre and realising her passion was to help designers turn their creative impulses into thriving businesses. She helped one friend, then another – pulling in trusted marketers, suppliers, manufacturers, and other resources when necessary – until her think tank was complete. But did she ever have any missteps? “I wouldn’t call it a misstep, because at the end of the day, it made me a much better merchant, while reminding me to always trust my instincts. But I did something three years ago that I will never, ever do again: I opened a physical brick-and-mortar showroom for my clients. Then, like five minutes later, all of these online equivalents of showrooms and trade shows starting popping up. Anyway, I just finished shutting that business down. Now I’m free to focus on digital. What a relief!” When I ask what does matter now, she grabs my hand, her studded Lucite
“Twitter. Social media. The internet. It’s changed everything – and I couldn’t be happier. Neither could my clients. Neither could women who love to find a signature accessory no one else has yet.”
Forman is fascinated by – and enthusiastic about – carefully curated digital department stores, like Londonbased Boticca and Not Just A Label. Versus brick-and-mortar retail shops, margins are much higher, meaning better prices for consumers. As for designers, when their wares are available via channels such as these, they may not have to launch their own e-commerce suites, at least not right off the bat. When they do, Forman is cautiously enthusiastic about Wondermode, currently in beta testing, which offers invited designers quick and affordable means by which to set themselves up for e-commerce. There’s also Lookk, which takes a different route, scouting for new trends and must-have items in London, Vienna, Sofia, and other cities, then blogging about them with a speed and passion far beyond the industry’s traditional commitment to seasonal sales cycles.
FM March 2013 - 13
Fashion
Melvin Jewellery, one of Forman’s clients, aggressively markets its wares direct to consumer via online channels. Shown here is Melvin’s new Deco collection designed by acclaimed American designer Martha Clifford.
What does this mean for Maltese designers and fashionistas?
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14 - FM March 2013
“First of all, if you’re a woman who loves accessories, you can’t really complain about the lack of retail availability anymore,” says Forman, who visits Europe at least twice a year. “The most exciting and emerging designers are already online or in the process of getting there. So, if you’re willing to spend some time searching and scouting, you have the same exact assortment available to you as a shopper in Berlin, Montreal, Los Angeles, or New York City. The market has gone totally international.” And for designers? “I’m going to be honest with you. I haven’t heard of any Maltese accessory designers – yet. But I can tell you this – now’s a great time for someone to step up to the plate. All of the old barriers – needing to market in Paris or Milan, proving your viability to traditional retailers – just aren’t there anymore. Just focus upon developing a great idea, something special that no one else does quite like you, and be aggressive about putting it online. Social media is your friend, especially when you have a good story to share. Right now, market forces are favouring interesting lines from an obscure or rarely-heard-from places. Everyone wants to feel like they’re the ones who discovered the next big thing.” Never afraid to take her own advice, Forman ends our interview by sharing what she had hoped would remain topsecret plans for an online institute. “Let’s face it, some kid right out of art school probably can’t afford my consulting fees. But they can certainly afford an online course. So I’m putting that together, a text- and video-based business school for up-and-coming accessory designers. The way I see it, it’s the least I can do, sharing everything I’ve learned along the way.” Sean Patrick Sullivan, our North American correspondent, is a copywriter, content producer, and creative director with commercial, editorial, and institutional clients all over the world. He divides his time between Toronto and Manhattan.
SWEATER
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Style
Acid brights Not for the faint of heart, bold brights are back. Green, pink, yellow – it’s neon and it’s going to get you noticed. This trend will look fabulous with a tan and doesn’t just apply to clothing – nails, lipstick and eyeshadow all get a fluoro makeover.
It’s a new season and Kira Drury springs into action.
Pastels
Colour me pretty
Oscar de la Renta
Hello sunshine. Spring is just around the corner and we’ll soon be dusting off our sandals and organising our spring wardrobes. Here are three big colour trends to work into your spring look – it’s time to update ladies.
Pastel pretties are set to take over the high street – think bubblegum pink, baby blue and pistachio green. Soft, feminine and flirty. I’m loving this colour palette for pretty little summer dress and floaty chiffon shirts.
Alberta Ferretti
Fashion for free
Prada
Monochrome This look is sophisticated and sleek. Black and white or monochrome is going to be everywhere for S/S. Think black cigarette pants and tailored white shirts or colour block dresses. Mix in bold colour with accessories, like a bright red shoe.
Well kind of – Diet Coke and local television show Ilsien in-Nisa have teamed up and are offering us a chance to win €50 vouchers from super cool stores like Suiteblanco, Parfois, Peacocks, Piazza Italia, Orsay and Pimkie. All you have to do is visit the myCoke Malta Facebook page www. facebook.com/MyCokeMalta and participate in the Diet Coke Choose Your Fashion Quiz. Each week there will be a new set of questions to answer and another €50 voucher to be won. Good luck.
FM March 2013 - 17
Style
A varied wardrobe This summer, the Morgan wardrobe is bubbly, romantic and exotic – colours and materials mix in a fresh and sparkly fashion range. A wave of pastels breaks on our wardrobe. The details in materials, embroidery and lace add a sophisticated touch for special occasions. The ethno-chic trend is for everyone – bead games and gems set as jewels adorn jackets, tops and dresses for a trendy, elegant touch. Raise the anchor and sail to new destinations by revisiting the codes of yacht wear. Go to Vegas – studding and glitter brighten up summer whites. And as a foretaste of the holidays, dig out your panama hat and follow the trend with flashy, colourful tropical prints.
I heart Jennifer A new IT girl is born and comes in the shape of the beautiful Jennifer Lawrence. She’s already an Oscar winner at 24 and set award season alight with her laid back attitude and wardrobe malfunctions (her dress tore at the SAG’s and then she fell over when accepting her award at the Oscars). Not only is she the hottest actress in Hollywood right now, she’s also the face of design powerhouse Dior.
Brand spy It’s all in the jeans New Look is renowned on the high street for being a reliable destination which consistently provides affordable, good quality denim. The New Look product portfolio is continuously expanding and includes the famous Shaper Jean, the €12.99 jean and the soon to launch reversible jean. Fashion savvy collectors never throw away this wardrobe staple – they simply add to the collection and New Look has it all.
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From one Jennifer to another, this Jennyfer is a shop to be precise. I’m loving their new collection and I definitely recommended you stop by on your next shopping trip. They have a great mix of everything. I especially love their dip-dye shirts (another huge trend for S/S) and their large denim collection – you’ll have a hard time choosing. They’ll be opening a new store at the Plaza, Sliema in May. But until then you can get your style fix at their other stores at the Savoy Valletta and Arkadia Gozo.
Budget Queen
Market girl Lara Boffa stretches her budget in London.
T
his year brought with it some pretty big changes. While I’m still doing my best to fulfil my Budget Queen duties, I’m trying to apply my philosophies away from the shores of tiny Malta. I moved to London at the beginning of the year and after quite a few shopping trips – London is to shopping what mozzarella is to mozzarella sticks – I can give you some tips on how to shop in the British capital without returning home penniless.
The Budget Queen Lara Boffa is allergic to oranges. She’s an interpreter, wants a pet dog, can play the piano and is lost in six languages. She runs her own fashion blog at www.boffism. blogspot.com
20 - FM March 2013
“I’ve been to London and I’m flat broke now!” says practically anyone who goes on one of these famous shopping holidays. That doesn’t always have to be the case. The key to stretching your budget in London is to visit the right places. Yes, a crazy ride down the million and one lushly decorated stores in Oxford Street is a must, but there’s so much more you can see, buy and take back home proudly as if it were a trophy. I had been hearing about the widely popular Old Spitalfields Market for months on end, so as soon as I had some extra time on my hands, I knew that it had to be one of my destinations. Located a few streets away
from Liverpool Street Station, this pretty market is open every day. However I really recommend visiting on Sundays – it’s then when it’s at its best. What immediately struck me during my first visit – excluding the mere sight of the countless number of vintage stands all happily placed next to each other – were the affordable prices for dresses, jumpers and, to my greatest pleasure, blazers. Whereas London is brimming with vintage stores, price tags can be a tad too hefty sometimes. A quick stroll around Spitalfields Market will not only give you a splendid view of one of London’s finest Victorian areas, but it is also bound to send you home with a few incredibly inexpensive goodies. By far my most favourite area in London is Brick Lane. This spot has so much character you can almost cut through it with a knife – lines of vintage stores next to each other and plenty of very budget-friendly pop-up fairs selling items for ridiculously cheap prices. The trick to finding these tiny – and not always very visible – fairs is to keep both eyes open for colourful signs pointing to the nearest vintage fair.
London is to shopping what mozzarella is to mozzarella sticks.
Treat your feet This season’s Bata collection speaks for itself – it is glamorous and pretty yet accessibly priced so you can splash out on all the looks. Powerful colour blocking styles are the ultimate finishing touch for the trendiest look while the pastel shades spell “spring” like nothing else. If you favour the futuristic look, Bata has come up with the metallic range. The only problem is that once you buy a pair, you’ll want them in every colour! Stylish block heels, wedges and wedgettes will get you through the day without pain. Treat your feet to Bata this season and your feet will love you for it.
I admit that I got most of my decently priced authentic vintage pieces from these smaller fairs in Brick Lane. I picked up this blue blazer from one of them in particular. Apart from the lovely seller who instantly drew me in to her wares, I couldn’t help but lay my eyes on this nautical-inspired blazer that I can wear now as well as when the weather gets a bit warmer. Oh, have I also mentioned that Brick Lane is within a short walking distance of the Spitalfields area? There are also plenty of random charity shops. I, for one, am very lucky to have six charity shops in my neighbourhood. A little inner voice squeals with pleasure every time I set foot in one of these stores. London is a haven for second-hand stores, thrift shops and charity shops. In comparison to Maltese equivalents, the British ones are a hundred times more organised, well lit and surprisingly better priced. Well, I did buy a set of 16 brand new dishes from one of these shops, but I’m quite sure that doesn’t interest you half as much as telling you I even saw real Gucci and Armani in another store close by. The best areas for charity shopping, excluding the Shoreditch and Brick Lane areas, are smaller residential zones like Blackheath or Lee. Try and find out the type of people that usually live in the area – the more well off they are, the greater the chance of finding yourself a great designer piece for a fraction of the price. Would you believe I found this leather briefcase in a charity shop and bagged it for just two pounds?
Party girl Be the shining star at every party by stepping out in the new ultimate accessory from Jimmy Choo, the perfect companion for the party girl in us all. You can now have head to toe Jimmy Choo glitz and glamour, with the glittery shoes, the handbag and now the fragrance to complete the party look. Get ready to set the night alive. Sparkles of pink pepper, tangerine and strawberry introduce a flash of white flowers and tuberose to this eau de parfum fragrance. Intoxicating and dangerously sexy, the scent parades on a catwalk of addictive powdery woods. Jimmy Choo fragrances are exclusively distributed by Chemimart Ltd. Tel: 2149 2212.
FM March 2013 - 21
Fashion
White wash
For FM, it will be all white on the night (and day).
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1. Laser-cut leather shoulder bag by Alaia, €3,262 from www.theoutnet.com / 2. Pique cotton jacket by Lanvin, €1,548, from www.matchesfashion.com / 3. Monsoon dress, €155 / 4. White ankle boots by Rachel Comey, €442 from www.asos.com / 5. Artemis one-shoulder silk-georgette dress by Sophia Kokosalaki, €1,630, from www.net-a-porter.com 6. Broderie anglaise shirt by Freda, €282, from www.matchesfashion.com / 7. Cotton voile shirt by Brora, €109, from www.brora.co.uk / 8. Set of 10 save the date cards by Lanvin, €50, from www.net-a-porter.com
22 - FM March 2013
Junction is an independent retailer introducing and marketing cutting edge quality clothing brands to the local market. We have been doing this since 1995.
Junction Sliema, the Plaza, Bisazza Street, Sliema, t: +356 2131 3282 | Junction Valletta, the Savoy, Republic Street, Valletta, t: +356 2123 0964 Follow us on Junction Malta
WWW.JUNCTIONFASHION.COM
Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone Marketing - Tel: 80072387
Denim
DENIM DREAMS
New fits, new styles, new fabric for
Denim.
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my lo is a h rider!
*mon mec es 2
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/ spring 2013
spring 2013 / 17
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This season puts a lot of emphasis on denim, mixing femininity with a rock vibe for a cool and sexy collection at a fantastic price.
1 sleeveless shirt, tie 3 tie dye shirt, dip dye
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Denim is everywhere, from ripped and studded to stonewashed or overdyed – it’s put through 4 the most extreme treatments to give it a totally unabashed rock nonchalance. 1 knotted shirt, printed trousers / 2 blouson jacket, jeans / 3 dip dye shirt, denim shorts / 4 printed shirt
makes denim the basis of your look, the piece you can’t do without.
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spring 2013 / 7
1 knotted shirt, printed trousers / 2 blouson jacket, jeans / 3 dip dye shirt, denim shorts / 4 printed shirt
4 2
spring 2013 / 7
1 knotted shirt, printed trousers / 2 blouson jacket, jeans / 3 dip dye shirt, denim shorts / 4 printed shirt
my lover a hell The Savoy, Level 1, Valletta. t: 21227073 and Arkadia, Gozo. t: is 22103318. rider!* New store opening soon at the Plaza, Level 0, Sliema.
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FM March 2013 - 25
spring
Trends
A spring in your step A new season has bloomed – FM airs your closet with fresh colours and patterns.
pring weather always comes early in Malta – and that’s a good thing because we get to flaunt the season’s trends earlier than others.
We’re going to Bermuda
DKNY
S
This season, cool girls wear bermuda shorts. If you can pull off this trend, then we suggest that you make the most of it – bermuda shorts are chic, playful and flattering. We love them.
This season, colours are bright, patterns are playful and prints light up your wardrobe. Leather has also made a welcome return with a bold statement. And to round up your outfit, shoes are colourful, especially classic beige high heels and comfy wedges. It’s a beautiful season – it’s a beautiful you.
Marc Jacobs
This is one of the easiest trends to pull off, even with a limited budget. Black and white are extremely wearable – smart for the day and sleek at night.
Get naughty You know that old saying – if you’ve got it, flaunt it. Well, it has never been as true as this season, with a catwalk of generous cleavages, midriff-baring separates, deep slits and sheer fabrics which give a hint of what’s to come.
Bold stripes
Flower power Florals are a perennial spring favourite. This season, feel the love with romantic and pretty blooms.
Moschino
New Look, €14.99 Ring a ring of roses, a dress full of poses. Go for pretty Spring florals with this all-over daisy print dress in a flattering shirred waist style. Perfect with a denim jacket!
Carpisa, €35.90
Naeem Khan
Diane von Furstenberg
Accessorize, €34.00
Black and white
They’re big, uncomplicated and fun. What’s more, bold stripes can adapt to your mood. Navy stripes are great for a bit of nautical chic, while worn head to toe, they’re cool as evening breeze.
FM March 2013 - 27
Trends
The Barometer
Accessorize, €26.90
Carpisa, €29.90
Marchesa
Wear Natalia Vodianova at the Dior launch at Harrods – stylish.
Oriental influences for our spring wardrobe – take a bow.
To beads Accessories are what make an outfit. And if they’re an inherent part of your outfit, then all the better. This spring, beading razzles and dazzles – beaded clothes have an oriental aura and make for some seriously stunning evening wear.
This sporting life
Emeli Sandé – conquering the world.
Tear
Moschino
Justin Bieber. Losing the plot – if he ever had one. A big knot on your tie – don’t. Tweeting your every move – not that interesting.
Blog watch
The who, what, why, wear of the net www.manrepeller.com Feel like a woman.
www.hypebeast.com Style animal.
www.patternity.co.uk Find your pattern.
28 - FM March 2013
Carpisa, €29.90
Get flirty this season with sporty dresses – cue playful A-line skirts and shoulder-baring bodices. Add a collegiate cardigan and wedges and you’re good to go.
New Look, €17.99 Join the most fashionable tribe around with this sketchy Aztec print midi dress. A great style for taking from day to night – simply swap ankle boots for chunky platforms for a look to tie-dye for!
Becoming a woman Nina L’Eau is a white swirl. It’s the perfume for that moment of awakening when girl becomes woman. It is, of course, fresh, with frosted neroli, but it also has the gentle femininity of apple blossom, the voluptuousness of gardenia and the rounded notes of white musk. Created by Olivier Cresp, master perfumer for Nina, this fresh, fruity and floral fragrance is the breath of youth, sharp, light and sensual. A new opus of the delectable fragrance, enclosed in a soft pink frosted glass apple with silver leaves. Exclusively distributed by Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Limited, tel: 2133 1553
Pretty in pastels
Photographer: Kris Micallef www.krismicallef.com / Assistant photographer: Nicky Scicluna www.nickyscicluna.com Stylist: Kira Drury / Make-up: Diandra Mattei using Givenchy M: 7982 8414 Hair: Mikaela Borg Barthet @ Pampered by Stella / Model: Stephanie Hodgkins M: 9987 4041
Mango tweed jacket, €59.99 / New Look skater skirt, €14.99 / Carpisa bag, €39.90
Mexx floral shirt, €42.95 / Scotch and Maison @Junction blue trousers, €81.90
Jennyfer lace dress, €39.99 / Parfois tortoise shell heels, €44.90 / Carpisa bag, €39.90
Orsay yellow top, €17.95 / Tally Weijl floral trousers, €29.95 / Orsay mint belt, €7.95 / Suiteblanco mint heels, €37.90
New Look pearl and lace dress, €34.99 / Parfois shades, €19.90 / Accessorize pearl bracelets, €6.90 per set / New Look white heels, €34.90
Mexx tweed skirt, €75.00 / Mexx frill blouse, €65.00 / Mexx cardigan, €65.00 / New Look specs, €7.99 / New Look coral heels, €34.90
Parfois coral necklace, €12.90 / Tally Weijl denim cut-offs, €15.95 / Scotch and Maison @Junction shirt, €81.90
Happy Easter!
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A Happy Easter to all our esteemed clients. St.Julians - The Mall, Park Towers call 2137 8520 or stj@myparktowers.com Santa Venera - Psaila Street call 2148 0807 or stv@myparktowers.com
FOR LADIES: 1. Navy Platform Sandals €49.99 Bershka 2. Dark Blue Spotted Skirt €75.00 Punt Roma 3 & 4. Red Satin Shoes €58.00 & matching Red Clutch Bag €24.90 Underground 5. Pearl Bracelet €2.95 each Tenda 6. Striped Dress €25.99 Bershka 7. Red Jacket €49.95 White Necklace €12.95 White Bracelet €9.95 Promod 8. Light Denim Shirt with Schiffon Sleeves €25.99 Bershka 9. Navy & White Nautical Bag €39.95 Punt Roma Star Necklace €5.99 Terranova 10. Earrings €2.50 per pair Tenda 11. White Jeans with Studs €29.99 Terranova & Striped Belt €15.00 Punt Roma 12. White Espadrils €19.99 Bershka 13. Denim Bag €29.99 Terranova 14. Fishy Fishy Cookbook €26.60 Agenda Bookshop 15. 2 in 1 Lip Tint Balm €9.50 Shine Tech Gellike €6.85 Nail Enamel €3.70 The Face - Deborah Milano FOR KIDS: 16. Red Cardigan €21.50 Monsoon Children 17. Tee, Pant & Headband Set 3pc €13.15 Wee Ones 18. White Sandals €30.00 Monsoon Children 19. Striped Blue Dress €53.00 Monsoon Children 20. Rugby Super Shirt €17.50 Wee Ones
Fashion
This season, fashion has flowered. FM takes its pick.
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1. Monsoon Anna dress, €90 / 2. Checkerboard floral print top by MSGM, €226, from www.matchesfashion.com / 3. Accessorize flowered pouch, €44.90 / 4. Floral print linen shorts by Gucci, €550 from www.net-a-porter.com / 5. Monsoon jeans, €70 / 6. Floral jacquard flats by Opening Ceremony, €238, from www.matchesfashion.com / 7. Accessorize rucksack, €44.90 / 8. Embroidered silk-organza dress by Oscar de la Renta, €5,545 from www.net-a-porter.com
40 - FM March 2013
Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone Marketing tel: 8007 2387
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Fashion
STREET STYLE
Romina Farrugia looks for new trends in the old streets of Valletta.
Kristina
Jeanice
Nikita
Alberto
Aaron
Glorianne
How would you define your style? I like clothes that are colourful and creative. I also love white and brown.
How would you define your style? I like colourful clothes.
How would you define your style? I would say it’s edgy yet still feminine – very rock chic.
How would you define your style? I love casual, sporty and comfy clothes.
How would you define your style? Casual smart and fitted.
How would you define your style? Colourful and with original pieces that stand out.
What inspires your style? I am inspired by stylish, young actors and singers such as Demi Lovato. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? I don’t like ponchos. Who is your favourite designer? I like the Fred Perry label.
What inspires your style? The internet is a treasure trove of various styles. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? Fishnet tights. Who is your favourite designer? The brand Guess.
What inspires your style? I am inspired by street style. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? A leopard print coat – I wouldn’t wear one in a million years. Who is your favourite designer? Chanel.
What inspires your style? I keep up to date by consulting magazines, the internet and local shops. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? I hate graphic 1960s prints with a passion so you definitely won’t see me wearing those. Who is your favourite designer? Dsquared and Dolce & Gabbana.
What inspires your style? Many things but I’m mostly inspired by what the young generation is wearing right now. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? Something with a hearts pattern on it – I cringe at the thought of it. Who is your favourite designer? Gucci and Versace.
What inspires your style? I draw my inspiration from Italian fashion. It’s not by chance that Milan is one of the world’s fashion capitals. What wouldn’t you be seen dead in? Something that is clearly past tense for fashion. Who is your favourite designer? Versace and Dolce & Gabbana.
FM March 2013 - 43
Healthy looking hair week after week Every woman changes the style of her hair daily. Monday it’s straight, Wednesday it’s curly and Sunday it’s in a ponytail. Over time it is left with split ends. With the new Pantene Repair and Protect split ends will appear instantly mended, giving lasting split end protection.
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C ON DIT IO N
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Shopping
Notes on style
Fashion is music to model and singer Corinna Baldacchino’s ears. Photos by John Borg
Then came your passion for music… Singing has always been a part of me. When I was young, I was too shy to sing in front of an audience – however, I would spend hours singing at home for family and friends. I even used to write my own lyrics and melodies. Then when I was 16 I decided to overcome my shyness – I teamed up with a pianist and started singing at weddings and hotels. The positive feedback I received made me feel more confident.
The model Name: Corinna Baldacchino Age: 25 Profession: Physics and integrated science teacher
What encouraged you to start modelling? When I was young I was very shy and was a bit of a tomboy. However, in my teens I started becoming more aware of how I looked. Then when I was in my last year at university, I became interested in modelling and decided to give it a go.
Do you remember your first modelling experience? I first started doing some photo shoots – I immediately felt very comfortable in front of the camera and I enjoyed the experience. My first time on the catwalk was for the Miss World Malta contest. I was very excited and was pampered like a princess – it was the experience of a lifetime and I won the Miss Beauty with a Purpose title. Following this experience, I took part in other modelling contests in which I also did very well. However, nowadays I don’t compete any more as I prefer to think of myself as a photo model rather than a catwalk model.
Once I graduated from university, I decided to dedicate more time to music and started writing my own songs. In the past two years, I’ve had my songs, such as Someone New, Safe and Battle of Wills, played on various local radio stations. Battle of Wills was also nominated to compete in the Euro Dance Web. I also participated in the Bay Kids song contest with Circles and took part in the Bay Music Awards.
Both modelling and singing require that you have a good relationship with fashion. How do you keep up to date with the latest trends? It’s important for a model and singer to be up to date on the latest fashion trends. I follow magazines, browse fashion websites and also go shopping to see the latest collections. One of my closest friends is also very fashion conscious and we always discuss and experiment with new styles.
If you had to choose between clothes and shoes, what would you go for? Shoes – every time I go shopping, I always end up buying a new pair.
Which colours and styles do you think suit you best? I love wearing different colours, especially light pastels. These colours are very fashionable right now and I feel that they really suit me.
Do you plan your shopping trips or are you a guerrilla shopper? I am a shopaholic so I grab any opportunity I can to shop. I also see shopping as a stress reliever, a good way to unwind at the end of a tough week.
Do you check price tags when shopping? I do have a budget so I always check the price tags. However, if I really like something, I just buy it.
What’s your current favourite item in your wardrobe? It’s a light pink baby doll flowery dress which I wear together with my light pink leather jacket and high heels.
How did your wardrobe look like when you were young? It was full of t-shirts, jeans and sneakers. I didn’t have many clothes and most of the clothes I had looked a little boyish.
And how does it look like now? My wardrobe is now full of different coloured stylish clothes and I barely have any space left where to put my new clothes. My style has now a more female touch.
Corinna’s spring wardrobe
I love dresses and this spring, I’ll be updating my wardrobe with pastel-coloured and flowery numbers.
FM March 2013 - 45
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WHAT I KNOW ABOUT STYLE What’s behind the make-up for Chantal Busuttil?
Photo by Kurt Paris.
Style Wise
I have some modelling experience. The first time I did some photo and catwalk modelling was when I had just turned 16. Marisa Grima at Hot Couture had asked me to model for her and my first fashion show was for summer wear.
cast the actor or model, sculpt the desired piece over the life cast, and make another mold on top of that. The process takes a lot of time and patience. Many times this work goes unappreciated as people only see the final result. You need a lot of skill to do special effects make-up. You need to know how to sculpt, have an eye for detail, and have good design ideas. Patience is also a virtue as is thinking outside the box.
My first shoot was set up at Manoel Island. We had some really cool and colourful outfits. The make-up was bright but soft while the hair was playful. We were three girls and a couple of guys and we spent most of the day swapping clothes between us while the photographer took shots. It was a blast.
Lady with the brush Name: Chantal Busuttil Age: 30 Profession: Make-up, prosthetic and special effects make-up designer, creator and artist.
The very first time I realised I had an affinity for make-up was when I was around 13 years old and had my first school show. The possibility of changing and enhancing people’s features attracted me – moreover, it seemed to come quite natural to me. I created a reference book with loads of cuttings and it all fell into place – make-up, style, hair and fashion. I never turn up for a job without plenty of reference material. I always ask about the feel and theme of the shoot. Preferably, I get a head shot of the models in advance to see what will work best on them and combine it to what the team or clients are after.
Photo by Marc Stafrace
Fashion is what designers come up with for each season. Style, on the other hand, is for any season.
My jazz teacher, Sonia, was so impressed with some of the make-up I had done for the dancers when we had performed The Nutcracker, that she said that I should seriously consider taking it up. I attended a pretty good make-up course in Naxxar and straight after that Marcelle Genovese asked me if I was interested in doing some make-up on the set of Helen Of Troy (BBC). I tried it out and absolutely loved it – it was what I wanted to do. It’s thanks to Sonia and Marcelle that I embarked on this adventure and I continue to strive to be better at what I do every day.
This season’s make-up trends are very strong on vibrant colours, soft eyes and bold lips. Soft eyes still need a generous amount of mascara, which makes perfectly defined and bright lips even bolder. The trick in making bold lips look good is in the perfect definition. Lip liner is a must – it should be traced while the lips are naturally closed, not when pulling outrageous ‘O’s’ and ‘A’s’, distorting the mouth completely. This way, you can see where you need to cheat the lip line a little to get your perfect lip shape. After that, a long lasting lipstick will do the job. If you aren’t crazy about your lips, go bold and wild on your eyes and keep your lips soft and natural. Now with the hot months around the corner, this is a pretty easy way of looking good without too much effort.
Chantal’s rules of style
I learned a lot of special effects from film sets I worked on. On Troy (Warner Bros.) I went from washing sponges and cleaning workbenches to eventually applying arrow wounds. On Agora (Cinebiss) I learnt the lay-on hair technique, which is applying beards with no lace. I also wanted to learn techniques from scratch so I saved up and went to study at the Cinema Make-Up School in Los Angeles, US. There is a lot more to special effects than just picking up a brush and painting away. To make prosthetics that fit and have full mobility, you need to first
It’s all about how you wear it. Make it your own. Dare to be different. Less is more.
Photo by Martin Pettersson.
Wear what suits you and not just what’s in fashion.
FM March 2013 - 47
McQ
C a p ita l fa s h i o n FM tries out some trends from London Fashion Week AW13/14.
T
here are certain instances when a capital becomes bigger than the country it represents. Istanbul, in Orhan Pamuk’s masterpiece The Museum of Innocence, overflows with passion and becomes the world, the universe. Rome is Italy and Italy is Rome. And come February, London is transformed into the fashion capital of the world. This season’s London Fashion Week proved once again that the UK capital is a throbbing centre of creativity that inspires our wardrobe. Here are what we think are the best 10 looks for AW13/14.
48 - FM March 2013
A magical wonderland.
Looks
Mary Katrantzou Daringly vibrant, brilliantly new.
Christopher Kane A 1960s inspired look that is immediately iconic.
Marios Schwab Black is back in full elegant glory.
Peter Pilotto
Osman It’s all about textures.
Beautiful tailoring, wild imagination.
Eudon Choi Doctor Zhivago meets pretty folksy.
Pringle of Scotland Heritage wear with an intimate touch.
Burberry The pride of being British.
Louise Gray Punky, irreverent and attention grabbing.
FM March 2013 - 49
Last Word
Moments in time
Emerging Maltese photographer Darren Agius has been awarded at international level. Here’s a close shot of him.
Venice
Who or what inspired you to take up a camera and start shooting? While in Verona with relatives a couple of years ago, I shot a lot of landscapes, doors, and windows from different angles – it was an instinctive thing. They laughed at me, but I believe that was the initial spark. A few months later, I submitted a photo in an international photo competition and I placed in the top 50.
Zooming in Name Darren Agius Age 28 Profession Works in IT
What are your memories of your first camera? I remember I was on holiday with my dad and his colleagues in Favignana, Sicily. I was only eight years old and I spent a lot of time running around and taking photos of the resort. I cannot find the photos anywhere but I still remember some of the shots.
What is the genre that best showcases your style? I do a variety of shoots – however, I’m mostly interested in architecture, travel, product and still photography. Black and white or colour? Definitely black and white. Out of the four honourable mentions in the International Photography Awards Competition 2012, three were for black and white shots. The competition was judged by 80 of the world’s most prominent photography professionals from galleries and publications.
50 - FM March 2013
Edible silver
Does a photo ever need a caption? No. However, sometimes a photo might come across as too simple for the viewer – in this case, a caption helps to express what the photo really means to the photographer. When doing a shoot, how do you enhance the chemistry between you, the model, the stylist and the rest of the team? Making everyone feel at ease is crucial. I don’t like people posing too much for a shoot – I find it noticeably unnatural. Models should be guided but they must feel comfortable to express their natural body language – this is what gives photos a sense of feeling and character. Do you always carry a camera around with you? I believe good photographers are artists. In a piece of art, the mood is transmitted to the viewer. Unless commissioned, I only carry my camera when I’m in the right mood and state of mind, organised and prepared to press the shutter release. What’s the best photograph that you didn’t manage to capture? While with relatives in Sirmione, Lake Garda, the views were so incredible that I felt I needed to take some photos. However, I got a bit too emotional and I dropped my camera – it broke and I ended up with no equipment. Imagine the anger, disappointment and embarrassment as the incident was caught on video. Watching it again is really funny. What makes you push the shutter release? The moment and the right state of mind. For more of Darren’s photos visit www.darrenagius.com