NOVEMBER 2010. ISSUE 1 4 9. FMLIFES T Y LE.COM
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November ISSUE 149 WELCOME It’s that time of year when most articles start with the words ‘it’s that time of year’. But it is, isn’t it – the time to lock the bathroom scales in a dark room under the stairs, in the anticipation of leading our stomach into the temptation of Christmas delicacies. We will munch much mince pies (don’t think that that ‘mmm’ alliteration is accidental), fill our stockings with chocolate treats and line our teeth with crystallised sugar. And as an unhappy consequence, we will get fat. But while for some of us, being fat is just a post-festivity situation, for many, it is a lifelong condition. Which offers some explanation as to why both the New York and Paris S/S 2011 fashion weeks paraded plus-size models on the catwalk.
Of course, this is a good thing as it fuels further acceptance of curvy women. But on the other hand, and in much the same way as stick-thin models might unconsciously promote anorexia, doesn’t the sight of overweight models give a nod of consent to obesity, at a time when this has taken on epidemic proportions? In this issue, we dedicate a lot of our grey cells to this conundrum. But not only. We celebrate the rise of the haul vloggers, get our wardrobe ready for winter romance, and argue how sometimes, fashion goes to ridiculous extremes. We also get exclusive interviews with celebrated illustrator, cartoonist, designer and art director Aldo Gatt, designer Elisha Camilleri and photographer Glenn Ellul. And since Christmas is round the corner, we treat one of our faithful readers to a brilliant makeover. Read on and enjoy.
COVER CREDITS Photographer: Tonio Lombardi W: www.toniolombardi.com Stylist: Kira Drury Hair : Maxine Desira Buttigieg M: 7980 2956 Make-up: Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369 Model: Romana at models.com.mt wearing New Look jumpsuit, €27.99 and Accessorize belt, €27.90
E MAGAZINE PA JOIN OUR FEMM
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57. Out of the closet
CONTENTS 11. Much Aldo about everything
Stylist Luke Engerer gives teacher Charlene Cachia a lesson in style.
61. Shopping
What Georgine Tabone bought this month.
Creative Aldo Gatt reveals his selves to FM.
19. All shapes and sizes
Catwalks are finally showing off some curves. But does that glorify obesity, asks Christian Peregin.
29. Very extreme makeover
When does fashion cross the line, asks Alison Bezzina.
33. Race against time
62. War and pieces
Conquer the military trend with brass buttons, epaulettes, badges and muted colours.
65. The rise of the haul vloggers
We’ve been doing it for ages – shopping and then talking about it. The difference is that haul vloggers do it on camera, says Daniela Brockdorff.
It’s a life at sea for FM as we join the Rolex Middle Sea Race.
69. Style wise
40. Berry beautiful
72. A New York minute
Keep cosy this winter in rich reds and warm purples.
51. In the name of love
FM sings a love song with this season’s romantic trends. 6 –– FM November 2010
What Elisha Camilleri knows about style.
FM takes a 24-hour bite out of the Big Apple.
74. Zooming ahead
For photographer Glenn Ellul, lens is definitely more.
Editor: Anthony P. Bernard E: anthony@fmlifestyle.com Editorial Consultant: Stanley Borg E: stanley@fmlifestyle.com Design: Porridge W: www.weareporridge.com Printing: Progress Press All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessary those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
For any information regarding editorial, promotion or advertising contact Tel: 00 356 2131 8522 00 44 20 3286 6808 Email: fm@madmediainternational.com FM is published by MADMEDIA International, Mezzanine West, Hadfield House, Library Street, Gibraltar and is distributed free with THE SUNDAY TIMES
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INTERVIEW
Much Aldo about everything Creative Aldo Gatt reveals his selves to FM.
S
ometimes, the signature on a work of art anchors the viewers to a set of preconceptions, giving them a safe haven from where they can draw on someone else’s interpretations. Other times, the signature comes up behind the viewers and pushes them to either sink and move on, utterly confused, or swim and seek their own interpretations. With Aldo Gatt, you have a choice of three signatures – Gattaldo, Pardogatto, and Aldo Gatt. It is almost as if Aldo is trying to hide in the shadows of his art, design and illustration, nursing a mysterious persona.
“I was introduced to the late creative genius Alexander McQueen through Julien MacDonald. We spoke only briefly but something within him petrified me.”
“Not often have I consciously hidden behind my work,” Aldo says. “I have, at times, been guilty of censoring the parts of my makeup I found undesirable and at times also those I lacked the energy to justify. However, I never seek to hide behind anonymity – rather, I would say the opposite is true. Self-revelation is an integral part of being a creative. Even if a creative’s life is as interesting (or as uninteresting) as anyone else’s, the regurgitation of the personal is vital even if not the sole ingredient. Unfortunately my insecurity leads me to go further and self-explain. My pseudonyms have various uses but anonymity is not one of them.” Aldo’s latest pseudonym is Pardogatto. “No doubt, some self-righteous shrink would be adamant they are all symptoms of a personality disorder, but I assure you that Gattaldo, Pardogatto and Aldo Gatt are wholly distinct, though not unrelated. Pardogatto is the youngest and the freshest of the three, Gattaldo the one with most baggage, and Aldo the one most predisposed to partiality. The latter is the one who collects payments.” Aldo is multidisciplinary in his approach, a celebrated illustrator, cartoonist, designer and art director – he has art directed global campaigns for companies such as Bayer, Aventis and Smith&Nephew. November 2010 FM –– 11
INTERVIEW
“It is true that I use various media but my core competence lies in visual communication. Thankfully, nature compensates for deficiencies in one department by enhancing another. My eyes have evolved to offset my verbal shortfall. “That said, the medium is critical in communication. It would be utterly inappropriate, say, to text your lover to inform them of the end of the relationship, unless you wanted to make a callous point. I flit from photography to illustration and designing spaces, according to mood and need.” Aldo’s work, whether it is design, art direction or design for interiors, titillates the viewers with multiple instances of intertextuality – references to literature, classic and contemporary works of art abound. This means that the more well-read and well-informed a viewer is, then the greater is the pleasure derived from Aldo’s work.
“Pardogatto is the youngest and the freshest of the three, Gattaldo the one with most baggage, and Aldo the one most predisposed to partiality. The latter is the one who collects payments.”
12 –– FM November 2010
“The observer’s perception plays a role here,” he says. “There is nothing unique in what I as a creative visualise – it’s in the interpretation. Communication is only possible if the language is universal. It is fine, even necessary, for a creative to borrow and steal as long as the end product has something of the creative’s imprint. There is something beautiful and inspiring about the earthworm that enriches the soil by ingesting it and in turn replacing it. I do at times make cultural references but the strongest allusions are those to the most basic and instinctive, those to sex and food for example.” Such intertextuality also necessitates multiple readings of Aldo’s work. How ironic is that when taken in the modern context of immediate consumption of images, where viewers don’t have time for a first reading, let alone a second one? “The more visual noise we are confronted with, the more an image has to work to be noticed,” Aldo replies. “One can opt for bold colours and vulgar manifestations or provide more opportunity for reflection, speak eloquently and communicate better through a good understanding of human nature. A shout might get your immediate attention but it’s hardly going to be a life changing experience.”
INTERVIEW
Aldo has also experimented with cartoons – his The Brave Cissies appeared on the maltamedia.net portal. “I would like to think that The Brave Cissies was an experiment. Seven years ago I decided to stop and reflect, to reevaluate what I had been doing with my life. It was a time for input and contemplation. At the time world affairs were affecting my state of mind and it was cathartic to commit my thoughts to paper in such a way. I had never really drawn cartoons and the learning experience was an experiment in public, warts and all.” Another direction that Aldo took was design for interiors – some years ago he bought and restored a historic 16th century house in Valletta – the Valletta G-House. “From time to time I need vessels to channel my energy into, and architectural spaces are the perfect means to this end,” he says. “Houses are tangible and concrete and yet they have a spiritual side that needs nurturing. I invariably share the outcome by offering the space for rental. Valletta G-House is one of three such projects.” In his own words, Aldo has a “greed for understanding”, a quality which fuels his curiosity for and experimentation with various media. “Opportunity has it that a neighbour, a sculptor and artist, has offered to share his newly acquired etching printer. So don’t be shocked if next time you visit, I invite you up to view my etchings,” he says. “I have also been recently involved with various illustrators, artists and composer Ruben Zahra on an exquisite book of Maltese Folktales. The publication is a priceless showcase of Maltese artisits, each one illustrating a tale. The accompanying cd features the traditional tales read by actors Joseph Galea and Isabelle Gatt. Perhaps it will make up for the fact that Isabelle, my sister never obliged when I asked for a bedtime story. Maltese Folktales is published by Merlin Library Ltd. and Soundscapes and also includes an audio cd featuring a narrative cycle of Maltese folktales, in both Maltese and English, accompanied by the music of Ruben Zahra performed by pianist Tricia Dawn Williams.” Taking such different directions, would Aldo ever consider veering into fashion? “Fashion is a creature that intrigues me, yet I have always observed from a distance. When I first arrived in the UK, I was introduced to the late creative genius Alexander McQueen through Julien MacDonald. We spoke only briefly but something within him petrified me. To this day I’m still not sure but I think it was a vulnerability I recognised too well because I saw it in myself.” Born in Malta in 1967, Aldo has been living and working abroad for years – currently, his home is in Caversham, Berkshire, UK. However, he still nurses a relationship, albeit a difficult one, with the island. “The country I love is also the one I hate,” he says. “My conclusion is a bleak one. I observe a country that has lost its ethical direction, a people unwilling to challenge received wisdom. “Education is key to the solution, and by education I mean an institution that encourages thought and discussion, not censorship. Forget colouring between the lines and challenge the accepted dogma. What keeps my interest in Malta alive is my family, friends, and my hope that the young will change the country for the good.” FM Zachary Street
VALLETTA 14 –– FM November 2010
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FEATURE
All shapes &
SIZES Catwalks are finally showing off some curves. But does that glorify obesity, asks Christian Peregin.
I
America’s Next top Model winner Whitney Thompson
t seems to be a backlash of epic proportions. New York Fashion Week gobsmacked everyone in September with a runway show dedicated to plus-size models. And a month later, Paris also threw its weight around during Fashion Week as obese singer Beth Ditto donned Jean Paul Gaultier outfits exposing her larger than life figure. Not only did she take the place – and designer clothes – of super thin models like Kate Moss. Her appearance also stole the headlines and, besides turning heads, it turned the table on the usual controversies surrounding the more typical size zero models whose stick-thin bodies are sometimes slammed as an unhealthy bad example to young girls. Considering that two thirds of Americans are what one would consider plus-size, it is no surprise that the catwalk is finally opening up to a cultural reality that shows no sign of disappearing. It is, after all, simple economics – clothes are designed to sell and to look their best they must be worn by the most attractive people. But if there is too huge
a gap between the modelling world and the consuming world, young girls will stop buying into an impossible fantasy and start to tune out. Plus-size models open the market to larger girls who understandably feel more comfortable buying a product they know will suit their body shape. For many, it’s also simply refreshing to see models look like real people, and the successful Dove advertising campaign was a testimony to this. But while advocates of plus-size modelling argue that people should be proud of their bodies, others claim this will just promote obesity at a time when this has become a worldwide epidemic. Much as people worry about skeletal models who subconsciously promote anorexia, Beth Ditto’s appearance can be argued to be glorifying an equally unhealthy body-shape – which is possibly more current a problem than thinness. Unlike the usual size 16 plus-models, the frontwoman of the band The Gossip is a size 28.
November 2010 FM –– 19
FEATURE
While advocates of plus-size modelling argue that people should be proud of their bodies, others claim this will just promote obesity at a time when this has become a worldwide epidemic. But Ms Ditto’s appearance was more of a publicity stunt than anything. In truth, what counts as plus size for the industry cannot even be considered fat except when compared to the more praying mantis types.
Beth Ditto
And the trend is not only finding its way onto the catwalk. It’s also starting to find its way into people’s minds. The August UK edition of Cosmopolitan magazine claimed that young women would rather look like the curvilicious TV star Christina Hendricks than Kate Moss. Meanwhile, top model reality shows, such as the most famous one brought to us by the quite curvy Tyra Banks, have given space to plus-size models who quickly became favourites with viewers. Although it took 10 seasons for a plus-size girl to be crowned America’s Next Top Model, the beautiful Whitney Thompson finally did it, battling stiff competition. And in the UK a new glossy magazine called Just as Beautiful has been launched targeted specifically at women larger than size 14, featuring larger ladies and refusing to use models any slimmer than that. Maltese blogger Davinia Hamilton has lambasted the magazine as “just as offensive” since it seems to imagine a world where women are not real women unless they are size 14 and over. “Isn’t that just as bad as the other glossies which only feature thin models? We haven’t learnt anything. The ideal magazine would feature beautiful women of all shapes.” Ms Hamilton believes people who lead healthy and balanced lives should be happy no matter what they look like. Despite spending too much of her life dieting, she eventually realised that her body shape was unlikely to change much and decided to accept herself as she was. “Life’s too short to worry about waistlines and numbers. My body may not be the world’s idea of an ideal body, but it’s my body and so it’s perfect. And as long as I’m healthy and happy and have friends and family who support me, I’m good.”
20 –– FM November 2010
Chloe + Wrap Dress
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FEATURE
Another Maltese plus-size girl has been quite enterprising in her quest for good plus-size fashion. Sarah Zammit Testa, or as her friends know her, Sassy Sarah, has created an online community for other big girls to find “stylish, fashionable and sexy” plus-size clothing. Pasazz.net promises to help “large and lovely ladies” find clothing, swimwear, lingerie, sportswear and everything in between. “Growing up as a big girl, I always found it hard finding cool clothes that fit. I also had a hard time finding shoes that fit,” Ms Zammit says on her website. She points out that since Malta is limited in size, it’s particularly limited in the plus-size department. “But with the advent of the internet, a lot of things changed. I couldn’t believe the amount of clothing, dresses, accessories and shoes that were available, just a click away.” She does not sell clothes herself, but provides a resource centre to help other online users get to the best online stores quicker. Ms Zammit says that the recent happenings in New York and Paris were to a certain degree done for the sake of publicity. However, she does see a trend developing and believes it is influenced by the strong online plus-size fashion community. “Women today are speaking up, demanding brands that cater to their needs better and perhaps brands are slowly starting to actually listen.” She does not think this trend encourages unhealthy body shapes and is very critical of the physical and psychological dangers of having extremely thin models on the catwalk. “Both extremes of the weighing scale are unhealthy. Not every woman can realistically be a size 6 or 8, and having larger models on the catwalk would bring greater balance and depict a more realistic picture of what women really look like.” She stresses that this is important for girls of any size and age as a backlash to the constant bombardment of images featuring “ideal women” who make others feel they must change their bodies to emulate. “This, in my opinion, is very wrong. Having plus-size role models gives girls someone else to look up to, someone they can related to better, someone that looks more like them, but who is still beautiful and on a magazine. This shows them that they do not necessarily need to look super thin to be beautiful, but that it’s really fine just to be you. This gives them a greater sense of worth and self-appreciation. At the end of the day the whole message it not about being plus-size, and not being thin, or vice versa, but it’s about teaching all girls to learn to appreciate who they are at the present moment, whatever they look like.” But the debate continues because there will always be traditionalists who hate the idea of their catwalks being overrun by girls who do not fit into their idea of beauty.
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22 –– FM November 2010
Some argue that fashion has always been the glorification of the unattainable, while others believe that just as short girls are not perfect models, nor are large ones.
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CONFESSIONS
Very extreme makeover When does fashion cross the line, asks Alison Bezzina.
W
hat is the wildest fashion item that you have ever worn? Have you ever tried on a Zoot suit? How about 12-inch stilettos or a pair of Alexander McQueen Armadillo shoes? Have you ever pierced your nose and ears and shackled them together with a golden chain as if you were keeping them on a leash? You might not be this fashion crazy, but over the years there have been some really wacky things that humans have done in the name of fashion. Actor, model, author and drag queen RuPaul once exclaimed, “You can call me he, you can call me she, you can call me Regis and Kathie Lee; I don’t care, just as long as you call me! After all,” he added, “you’re born naked and everything else you put on is drag.”
Sometimes we go to pitiful extremes to purposefully portray something that we clearly are not.
Of course RuPaul took his mantra to incredible heights and made a cosy living out of it, but he was right in the sense that everything we do to change the way we look creates some sort of mask. Even just cutting and colouring our hair creates a façade, as would letting it grow long and naturally unruly. The mask we choose is the one which we believe sends out the right message about who we are and what we represent. Sometimes however, we go to pitiful extremes to purposefully portray something that we clearly are not. In the 1880s, women squashed their bodies into bustles and corsets while in the 1950s they held their breath just to get into girdles and cone-shaped brassieres. During Victorian times women slipped on their shoes before getting dressed, because once their petticoats and skirts were in place, there was no way in hell that they could bend over.
Over the centuries we’ve been duped into using clever engineering to shape our bosoms. We’ve gone from squished to flat, from lifted to ripped, and yet, until this very day, we still don’t know what the ideal breast should really look like. Though most of us would not wear such uncomfortable gadgets today, we still secretly desire the shape that they delivered, so, for reasons not dissimilar to those of Victorian women, we opt for neck-breaking high heels, Spanx, breast implants and liposuction. Fashion might have changed over the years, but everything that we do to our outer appearance is still fuelled by the same reason – to filter out the people who approach us, to fit in with a particular creed and crowd, and ultimately to control what others perceive us to be like even if they never talk to us. When I was still 18 years old, I invited a university acquaintance of mine to my parents’ house just to pick up some lecture notes. Although the house was situated on a very prominent main road and I had given him very clear instructions on how to get there, for the life of him, my friend could not find the house. He arrived half an hour late, very hot and bothered under the collar. When I asked what had happened, he explained that he had driven by the house a few times but simply assumed that it could not be where I lived “Because you always wear shabby clothes and drive that piece of crap to university,” he explained. At the time I pretended to be somewhat offended, but secretly I took what he said as a compliment. I felt that I had achieved my goal of keeping materialistic and superficial people away – it was many years later that I learnt that my type are called ‘inverted snobs’. November 2010 FM –– 29
Lady Gaga goes rare.
Unlike Lady Gaga who got away with wearing a disgusting 50-pound dress of decomposing meat at this year’s MTV Video Music Awards, most of us have less extreme styles, but whether you can’t stand your face without make up, or won’t leave the house without your piercings, it all boils down to having to hide behind creamy eye shadows and artificial bronzers. What’s worse is that most fashion trends are disguised as new standards of ‘natural’ beauty and eventually all imply some sort of status. For centuries women have struggled to fit into various fashion ideals even if at times it didn’t just mean a change of wardrobe. Probably the more painful example of this is the lotus foot – an atrociously painful fashion trend which started in China during the 11th century and lasted over a century. Inspired by a prince’s concubine who happened to have particularly small feet, wealthy families all over China started binding and breaking their five-year-old daughters’ feet in order to make sure that they didn’t grow to more than three inches in length. It did not matter that the child would end up disabled – in fact, this was the whole point of the exercise. The self-inflicted disability implied that these women could afford not to work, and that they would marry rich men who would provide them with servants and financial support. This sick tradition was only abolished 60 years ago.
Daphne Guinness wearing Alexander McQueen Armadillo shoes
CONFESSIONS
Extreme fashion lived on with trends like the Elizabethan hairless face in 11th century Europe – for hundreds of years women shaved their faces, hairlines, and their entire eyebrows only to end up looking like expressionless aliens. It went on with Italy’s 14th century chopines – essentially 30-inch wedges originally used by peasants to walk through mud and dung. It continued with France’s 15th century headdresses, Spain’s flattened chests and hoops, and the 19th century straight chemise, which finally did away with customisation and gave rise to the ready-to-wear clothing industry. Just a few years ago McQueen launched the low-waisted jeans. Kate Moss pioneered dangerously lowslung trousers on the catwalk, and soon enough anything more than a five centimetre fly was considered outdated. Despite the inexplicable ugliness of exposed butt cracks, this trend has been around for years, but I’m hoping that soon enough, the low-slung jeans will give way to the next fashion craze. FM
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ROLeX MIDDLE SEA RACE
Race against time...
T
his year, an impressive fleet of 76 yachts – daringly close to the 2008 record of 78 entrants – participated in the Rolex Middle Sea Race, including the 2009 Overall Winner, Andres Soriano on the 21-metre mini-maxi Alegre (GBR), and Line Honours winner, Mike Slade on the 30.5-metre ICAP Leopard (GBR). Now in its 31st edition, the 606-nautical mile Rolex Middle Sea Race is an offshore classic which was once described by Ted Turner as “The most beautiful race course in the world.” The race is organised and hosted by the Royal Malta Yacht Club, which moved into stylish brand new quarters overlooking Marsamxett Harbour, just prior to last year’s race. The yacht club, with as rich and varied a history as this island republic, is one of the most hospitable anywhere and provides all sailors who make the effort to trek here, a warm welcome.
November 2010 FM –– 33
ROLeX MIDDLE SEA RACE
Crew party time Thursday, October 21st This year the crew party was held for the first time at the newly refurbished Royal Malta Yacht Club clubhouse on the Ta’ Xbiex sea front. A specially created roof-top lounge allowed guests to enjoy a quiet drink overlooking the terraces below. FM was there to capture the moment.
34 –– FM November 2010
ROLeX MIDDLE SEA RACE
November 2010 FM –– 35
the
s k i p p e r ’s
watch
No other watch is engineered quite like a Rolex. The Yacht-Master comes with a unique sailing heritage. Instantly recognisable by its bidirectional rotatable bezel with raised and graduated markers, it is the instrument of choice for inshore and offshore racers, as well as those on land. Sporty yet refined, the 40 mm Yacht-Master is presented here in Rolesium, a unique combination of 904L steel and platinum.
the ya c h t- ma s te r
ROLeX MIDDLE SEA RACE
Photo by Rene Rossignaud
The 2010 Rolex Middle Sea Race proved to be another epic. No records were broken, but the 30-metre Esimit Europa 2 from Slovenia took line honours in some style, whilst the 52-foot American yacht Lucky won overall, just edging out two Maltese yachts: Artie and Jaru. Yacht photos by Rene Rossignaud & Kurt Arrigo - Rolex. This feature is brought to you by Edwards, Lowell Co. Ltd and Rolex. Edwards, Lowell Co. Ltd. is the exclusive agent for Rolex in Malta.
7, Zachary Street, Valletta - Tel +356 2124 7447 6, St. George’s Road, Spinola Bay, St. Julians - Tel +356 2138 4503 - info@elcol.com - www.elcol.com 38 –– FM November 2010
31 oyster perpetual datejust lady 31 in yellow rolesor
the datejust collection is also available in 34 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm.
mm
FASHION
Berry Beautiful Keep cosy this winter in rich reds and warm purples.
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Photographer - Tonio Lombardi Stylist - Kira Drury 1. Bortex blazer - €79.00 2. Tommy Hilfiger dress - €180.00 3. Peacocks hair band - €2.50 4. Tommy Hilfiger shirt - €130.00 5. Accessorize hair clip - €26.50 6. Carpisa purse - €39.90 7. Accessorize bangle - €12.50 each 8. Accessorize ring - €14.00 9. Mexx gloves - €42.95 10. Marks & Spencer bag - €19.50 11. Massimo Dutti belt - €24.00 12. Peacocks nail varnish - €3.50 13. Peacocks lip balm - €2.00 14. New Look ballerina pumps - €19.00
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40 –– FM November 2010
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AUTUMN WINTER 2010
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1. Brand: Gabor, Code: 11.749.60, Price: €170 2. Brand: Gabor, Code: 11.740.11, Price: €130 3. Brand: Scholl, Name: Elaine, Price: €150 4. Brand: Scholl, Name: Katrin, Price: €170 5. Brand: Gabor, Code: 11.641.22, Price: €150 6. Brand: Scholl, Name: Tene, Price: €130 AVAILABLE FROM THE SCHOLL FOOTHEALTH CENTRES IN SLIEMA, VALLETTA, MOSTA AND ZABBAR, SUFFOLK - VALLETTA AND ABELA’S HEALTH AND BEAUTY CENTRE - GOZO.
F O OT H E A LT H C E N T R E
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WHAM, GLAM, M’AM Photographer - Tonio Lombardi / Stylist - Kira Drury / Make up - Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369 Hair - Maxine Desira Buttigieg M: 7980 2956 / Model - Romana at models.com.mt
French Connection dress - €213.00 Orsay tights - €7.95 Street Fashion heels - €32.00
Tommy Hilfiger shirt - €150.00 Orsay shorts - €24.95 The Doll’s House jacket - €65.00 Scholl boots - €130.00 New Look tights - €8.00 Opposite New Look dress - €37.99 Soul heels - €89.00 French Connection necklace - €26.00 Peacocks earrings - €3.50 Debenhams tights - €9.00
Debenhams shirt - €52.00 French Connection skirt - €93.00 Debenhams heels - €42.00 Accessorize hat - €40.00 The Doll’s House belt - €30.00 Opposite Monsoon dress - €280.00 French Connection fur shrug - €93.00 Debenhams heels - €37.00
Esprit blazer - €139.95 Mango trousers - €49.90 Debenhams heels - €43.00 Accessorize gloves - €12.50 Accessorize mask - €7.90 Accessorize green ring - €18.90 Accessorize star ring - €18.90 Accessorize pearl cluster ring - €14.90 Opposite New Look dress - €25.00 Debenhams fur shrug - €89.00 Accessorize tights - €12.50 New Look heels - €32.99 New Look plain pearls - €5.00 New Look pearls with brooch - €15.00
TRENDS
In the name of love FM sings a love song with this season’s romantic trends.
O
f course, it is easier to fall in love in summer – the sun is flirting, the waves sparkling, everyone looks beautiful, and the universe conspires to throw you in the middle of a romantic story. Winter, on the other hand, is a wet blanket of a season – you’re too cold to have a warm heart, and you cannot play hide and seek with your clothes.
Massimo Rebecchi
But not this winter – this season, dreamy fabrics, a heartthrobbing palette and lady-like trends fire up the love. Live happily ever after with these trends.
PURPLE RAIN THE LACE EMBRACE Lace gives you the opportunity to play show and don’t tell. It’s the flirtiest of materials, hide and seeking with your assets. This season’s catwalks proposed the classic black lace outfits which give you an instant classy makeover – Nina Ricci’s are especially noble – as well as a mix of lace and animal prints. Other combinations include lace creations with bright separates – ah, young love.
Winter’s palette is rich, elegant and luxurious – dark greens, fuchsia, silver and gold carry on the Victorian element. The biggest colour, however, is violet in all its glory. You can either go for a feminine, delicately light shade, or go for a bolder, darker violet. Accessorise with metal earrings and dark silver, and you’ll look like a fairy tale. Red is also a main actor on this season’s catwalk – a woman in red is the sexy centre of attention. And that’s what we all want to be this season.
November 2010 FM –– 51
TRENDS
Jan Taminau
All that glitters is a girl’s best friend. From eye make up to accessories and catwalk trends, this season puts a sparkle in your wardrobe. Jackets, skirts and accessories - everything glitters with metallic details, sequins and patterns. This season’s catwalk shone with glittering outfits and sparkly details with enough shine to liven up an entire outfit.
Erin Fetherston
SHINE ON
Accessorize clutch - €54
Giorgio Grati
THE JEWELS IN YOUR CROWN This season’s accessories are opulent in a Victorian way – think lace, jewels, velvet, brocade, feathers and lots of detailing. Colours are similarly decadent, with dark berry tones and jewel tones taking centre stage. The more accessories, the better – pile on belts, headbands, charms, chandelier earrings, chunky bracelets and statement necklaces. Cocktail rings are also in, huge and eye-catching. It’s almost as if designers are rebelling against any hints of an economic downturn. One year of poverty is enough.
It’s the new black Charles & Ron’s A/W collection, shown at the City Theatre as part of the Notte Bianca celebrations in Valletta, is a spectacular display of different styles and textures in black. Flare organza skirts were combined with jet-black sequin jackets, and draped mini-dresses with faux leather bodice. Head to toe lace numbers were covered in the must have item of this season – the cape. Charles and Ron’s versions of the cape were made in rich velvet, reminiscent of the times when the Knights ruled Malta. Transparency was also a big theme and the organza blouses worn on the feather and faux leather skirts are the perfect example of how C&R can do sexy and classy all in one.
POST-WAR ROMANCE We all dream of a past life, when men drank martinis for lunch and women had hourglass bodies and flaming red lips. This winter, go back in time with a 1940s-inspired wardrobe that adds layers of femininity. Dresses make the most of waspish waists while silhouettes shift with old-fashioned romance and nostalgia. Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Erdem all revived faded florals and sheer fabrics, with a palette of dusty blues and pinks. Accessorise with antique jewellery.
52 –– FM November 2010
Collection: A/W 2010/11 / Hair: Alexander’s Hairdressing / Make up: Shasha Photography: Ian Wright
The collection is now available at Rebelli. For more information visit www.charlesandron.com.
EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FROM THE LOTTO STORE, LEVEL -2 THE POINT, TIGNE Pink Sweatshirt - €44 Grey Top - €30.50 Grey Trousers - €46
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TRENDS
FASHION BAROMETER
WEAR Thigh-high socks – getting us all warmed up. Flying high with this season’s aviator jackets. The Missoni Collection app – take the fashion with you. Kate Moss for Longchamp. Dreamy.
Missoni
TEAR The worst dressed award of the month goes to La Toya Jackson. Mustard Lycra? What was she thinking? Maltese roads after the rain – backbreaking.
THE CAPES OF GOOD HOPE
An early Christmas wish list – we know it will remain just that, a wish.
We’ve all nursed dreams where we adventured as a sexy caped crusader. This season, you can have your fairy tale adventures in real life with the most stunning of capes, from chunky to richly embroidered. And it’s not just the great silhouette that they give you – they will keep you warm in your search for love.
“I’ve got cellulite, my hips are bigger,” Jessica Alba told GQ November. We don’t believe you.
BLOGWATCH THE WHO, WHAT, WHY, WEAR OF THE NET
Accessorize purse - €12.50
fashionmistxoxo.blogspot.com Fashion healing.
thrillsandthreads.com The thrill of the fashion kill. Accessorize jumper - €14.90
54 –– FM November 2010
makeupbymizzcoco.blogspot.com
The latest news from planet beauty.
out of the closet
Every month, stylist Luke Engerer and his makeover team will visit one lucky reader, rummage through her wardrobe and give her a restyle. It’s all treats but no tricks as Luke & Co. only use your own clothes to create a new style for you.
THE STYLE COUNCIL is m FM’s makeover tea e Luk made up of stylist er ph Engerer, photogra make-up Tonio Lombardi, gory and artist Melanie Gre le hairdresser Michel Galea at Roots Hair Salon.
Stylist Luke Engerer gives teacher Charlene Cachia a lesson in style. Photography - Tonio Lombardi
BEFORE W
e meet Charlene, a bubbly 27-year-old teacher from Lija, at Roots Hair Salon. She’s in a dark denim skirt and a black top. Charlene is getting married next year and since she is having some work done at her house, we cannot have our makeover there. Which means that Charlene had to lug as many of her clothes as possible to the salon. It’s immediately obvious that Charlene’s colour is black – she practically lives in it. Although quite conservative, she confesses
MAKEOVER
that she is a rocker at heart. That could explain her obsession with black. Charlene’s hair looks a bit tired, so Michelle and I immediately choose a colour to bring some warmth to her hair. After rummaging though the bags of clothes which Charlene, a confessed shopaholic, brought with her, I come across a black dress which I think will really flatter her figure. And although it’s black (no surprises there), it’s still fun and pretty.
ABOUT A GIRL charlene cachia People who know me well know that I am honest and reliable. I am who I am – I won’t change just to please others. I think my eyes are my best physical feature. As for the feature I like least, it’s mostly my lips. I always feel very confident in a little black dress – it works magic. Since my job involves meeting people, I take good care of how I look, but sometimes time is an issue. I try and make time for regular facials, manicures and pedicures. Still, I don’t find much time to relax. I consider myself to be a shopaholic, especially when it comes to anything in black. When going out, it usually takes me some 45 minutes to get ready. I first clean my face, brush my teeth, and indulge in a 20-minute shower. Then I do my hair and make up, dress, and head out.
THE NOMINEE Our nominee for this month is Charlene Cachia, a girl who is always on the go and has little time for pampering. Charlene wrote to us, saying how, “My life is very hectic, and since my job involves meeting people all the time, how I look is of utmost importance. Your makeover could be an opportunity for me to relax and enjoy being pampered.”
Hair
Make up
“Charlene’s hair was screaming for a bit of colour, as it was looking a bit dull. We decided on a coffeecoloured toner for shine and warmth. We also wanted a bouncy fun hairdo so I set her hair in big rollers and left her under the dryer for 30 minutes. Then I styled and finished off with shine spray.”
“I first used a pale foundation and translucent powder as a base. We went for a bit of a retro look, so I used a combination of smokey greys and black eye shadow on Charlene’s eyes. I followed with a thick black liner and a pair of faux lashes. I used a peach colour with a touch of shimmer on her cheeks. To finish off the look I used a peach frosted colour and gloss on her lips.”
Michelle Galea at Roots Hair Salon. T: 2745 4164, M: 9945 4164
Melanie Gregory, M: 7772 8043
November 2010 FM –– 57
MAKEOVER
YOU SHOULD BE SO LUCKY
AFTER
If you want to be our lucky makeover girl this Christmas, drop us an e-mail at model@fmlifestyle.com and tell us why we should choose you. Also, attach two photos of you – one full body and one headshot – with your e-mail.
“I’ve only worn this once,” says Charlene, on the outfit we chose for her. “I remember I really felt awkward in it. But combined with my new hair, the make up and accessories, it’s looking great. “The final result is very different from my usual style, and I love it. And I really enjoyed the whole makeover experience – I was treated like a princess.” FM
November 2010 FM –– 59
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SHOPPING
For Miss Gozo 2010 Georgine Tabone, variety is the spice of her stylish life. Photo by George Saguna
“My wardrobe is all about variety – I buy all sorts of clothes”
G
eorgine Tabone, 17, has recently been chosen as Miss Gozo 2010 – this Saturday, she will join 19 girls from other localities in Malta to compete for the Miss Malta title. “I look forward to representing Gozo for the Miss Malta title. Gozitans don’t get many opportunities to feature on a national stage – being the only Gozitan there makes me feel responsible and proud.” Currently attending Sir M.A. Refalo Centre for Further Studies, where she is reading religion and home economics for her A-levels, Georgine started modelling at a fashion show in Gozo. “The Boys Seminary in Victoria was organising a fashion show and I decided to attend,” she says. “At first I felt a bit shy but eventually found it very exciting and fun – by the end I realised that I loved being on the catwalk.” Georgine has strong opinions on fashion. “I think evening wear suits me best. As for colours, I don’t have any particular preference – I believe that it is more about style and material than colour. That said, I would never wear natural fur or skins.” Georgine’s wardrobe looks like – in her own words – a “stall at the open market”. “My wardrobe is all about variety – I buy all sorts of clothes. That’s mostly because I’m an impulsive shopper. I don’t plan my shopping trips and just buy whatever grabs my eye.”
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November 2010 FM –– 61
FASHION
War & pieces Conquer the military trend with brass buttons, epaulettes, badges and muted colours. Photographer - Tonio Lombardi. Stylist - Kira Drury.
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1. Mexx belt - €42.95 2 Carpisa pouch- €15.90 3. Mango shades - €14.90 4. Monsoon shoes - €37.00 5. Bortex green lace trim vest - €23.00 6. Debenhams jacket - €59.00 7. Orsay ear muffs - €9.90 8. Accessorize brooch - €13.90 9. Orsay tweed top - €24.95 10. The Doll’s House mustard dress - €40.00 11. Peacocks grey top - €22.50 12. Accessorize bag - €43.00 13. Esprit gloves - €19.95 14. Massimo Dutti jeans - €69.90 15. Esprit skirt - €49.95
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Valletta I St Julian’s | Sliema | B’Kara | MIA | Bugibba | Gozo | Bay Street
s r e g g lo v l u a h e The rise of th
FASHION
We’ve been doing it for ages – shopping and then talking about it. The difference is that haul vloggers do it on camera, says Daniela Brockdorff.
I
should probably kick off by explaining what ‘haul vlogging’ is. It shouldn’t take me more than a couple of lines because the concept couldn’t be simpler. Imagine a teenage girl or even someone in early adulthood who after a not-so-pleasant day at work, or at university or anywhere you want to imagine, feels the need for some retail therapy. So far, so good – we’re all been there and done that so many times that clothes shops might as well start wrapping whatever we buy in sparkling paper with a red ribbon and a tag saying ‘Enjoy!… From the Feel Good Factory!’ Post-shopping spree, most of us would go back home, perhaps host our own private fashion show in front of the mirror but ultimately, whatever we buy ends up being chucked in the closet to await its day. The difference with haul vloggers is that their newly bought clothing does not go into their wardrobe – it goes global. Haul vloggers are those who literally haul the “like”, “totally awesome” stuff they buy from the mall in front of their webcam. Then they record themselves presenting what they bought for the whole world to see.
To be perfectly honest, I used to think that these haul vloggers simply don’t have anything better to do and I could not understand why people – and I’m speaking of millions – would want to waste their time watching these recordings on YouTube. I might also have verged towards New York Magazine’s Amy Odell’s opinion that “To think these people think they need this stuff, when what they need most of all are lives, hobbies, jobs, maybe cats.” But then I saw haul vlogger ChanelBlueSatin’s counterattack to Odell’s criticism, stating that she is perfectly happy with her life and that she is a “college graduate and a certified elementary teacher”, plays the piano as a hobby and has a dog instead of a cat. Presumably, so did Odell, who followed up with another feature in which she admitted that she had to “Apologise for judging too quickly”. Haul vlogging is taking the fashion world by the proverbial storm. Most of the haul vloggers are now even part of the YouTube Partner Program, meaning that they actually get paid for the videos they upload. Kittykoutureable has even made it to Vanity Fair while haul vlogger Michelle Phan is
now collaborating with Lancome. We must admit that not many of us are lucky enough to get paid for something that we simply love doing. Furthermore, a large number of fashion retailers in America – most vloggers are American – are taking this phenomenon rather seriously. Some upload these videos on their websites, others incorporate haul vloggers in their marketing plans in exchange for shopping coupons. It seems that for certain companies, the day when such ordinary girls replace glamorous top models is not so far off. Certainly, what marketing managers have realised is that these girls’ genuine love for the item being advertised will attract a larger crowd. Perhaps most of us don’t want our teenage girls spending their time parading in front of their webcam but this phenomenon might prove to be quite revolutionary. As Nylon magazine’s beauty director Holly Siegel said, “These vloggers don’t sugar coat things. If the girl is putting on fake lashes and the glue makes her eyes tear, she’ll tell you so.” The days of deceitful advertising might soon be numbered as millions of viewers flock to get these girls’ honest and friendly advice. FM
Haul lotta love The top 5 haul vloggers
www.michellephan.com Michelle Phan’s motto is, “Being happy doesn’t mean everything is perfect. It means you’ve decided to look beyond the imperfections.” Certainly, this motto is one which all young teenage girls should ponder on and adopt for themselves. Her videos have been viewed more than 155 million times. Moreover, proceeds from her video EcoFriendly Beauty are for charity and she raises awareness on how to be eco-friendly and stylish at the same time.
www.allthatglitters21.blogspot.com Sisters Blair and Elle Fowler’s vlogs are about everything you can imagine. The girls are fashionable and highly popular with millions of viewers. Blair lives every American girl’s dream – she dropped out of school to spend her life shopping and being a haul queen, potentially earning up to €80,000 a year. The girls are so influential that a day after praising a certain watch, thousands of fans hauled every model available in the shops and even crashed the company’s website.
November 2010 FM –– 65
FASHION
www.chanelbluesatin.com This girl simply had to make my Top 5 mainly because of her already mentioned reply to the criticism raised against haul vloggers. Not only did she get an apology but also got the New York Magazine contemplating a haul series of its own.
www.youtube.com/user/ KittyKoutureable True, her videos are not watched as much as other haul vloggers’, but she is a normal teenage girl with no high-flying opinion of herself. She is honest and natural and you should definitely watch her videos if you want to know about the best and affordable make-up out there. Furthermore, Kitty’s (real name Kelly) vlogging also gives an authentic insight into the typical life of the contemporary American girl.
www.youtube.com/user/ beautyxxgoddess Apart from what’s in her closet, beautyxxgoddess shares make up tips, shows viewers what she keeps in her purse, in her schoolbag and school files and even adds some study tips for those who want to get good grades in a fashionable way. FM
66 –– FM November 2010
Kittykoutureable has even made it to Vanity Fair while haul vlogger Michelle Phan is now collaborating with Lancome.
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STYLE WISE
What I know about style Style is all about attitude, says Elisha Camilleri.
Elisha Camilleri is a fashion designer, illustrator, tailor and stylist. She currently lives and works in Manchester. Fashion responds to trends occurring at that specific time. It evolves according to our lifestyle – as a designer, I respond by designing garments that cater for the consumer’s mood. Style, on the other hand does not change as fashion does. It is a quality that as a designer I treasure and transfer into my work. Style is a reflection of taste, the look which I create. During design development I absorb all the fashion trends and adapt them to my style. My look is playful, feminine, functional and sometimes dramatic. When I was young my mother used to sew pretty girly dresses as I watched her closely. Then in my teenage years I developed a passion for vintage clothing. Dressing up was more like an adventure, experimenting with colour, patterns and styles from other eras. Most of the time I couldn’t afford to purchase new clothes so I used to go into a clothes store for inspiration and make my own. My wardrobe consists of quality timeless pieces purchased in one off boutiques. I always fish for interesting details developed during the pattern cutting process or the way the garment is finished. It is a playful wardrobe, expressive, and very much influenced by my mood. I avoid wearing very tight-fitting garments. I have graduated in Fashion Design and Technology at the Manchester Metropolitan University – being away for so long has increased my desire to make a contribution to the local fashion market. However, I will continue my work abroad. I am currently producing technical illustrations for a menswear pattern cutting book which will be published by a London-based company.
November 2010 FM –– 69
STYLE WISE
During a five-week stay in Slovakia I learnt a lot about textile traditional skills – this has enhanced my interest in continuing my learning and development of this craft. I am researching new trends, consumers lifestyles and stories which may influence my next collection with a more ethical point of view. Sustainable fashion is also on my agenda, and I research and discover lost craftsmanship. The way we put an outfit together is influenced by our background, mood and what we feel comfortable in. When we search for a garment we select pieces that highlight our approach to life. FM
70 –– FM November 2010
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ONE NIGHT IN
A New York MINUTE FM takes a 24-hour bite out of the Big Apple. Main photo Times Square: © NYC & Company
Nightlife
To redeem this vo to complete the f
It’s the city that never sleeps, which necessarily means that New York has one of the best nightlife Name scenes in the world. J Clarke’s Bar has been serving drinks for more than Locality 125 years, while the King Cole bar in the St Regis Hotel is a fabulous all American bar with leather No. armchairs, slick service and the bestMobile Bloody Mary – after all, the drink was invented here. The area around Bedford Avenue isE-mail picking up, while Williamsburg and Greenpoint, where the Yeah Yeah Yeahs started their first gigs, offer Date ofa Birth rich music scene.
Name of Childr
Relationship to Parent
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Relative
ou think you know it. After all, New York is the city that launched a thousand films. And we’ve seen so many of them – from Goodfellas, Die Hard and Sleepers, to Donnie Brasco, Taxi Driver and Sex and the City – that we’re familiar with all the prime sights, from the Empire State Building, Brooklyn bridge and Time Square to Macy’s and Wall Street, without having ever visited. But in reality, we don’t know the city. Because despite the fact that New York has become a fixed series of images in popular culture, the city still retains an unknown quality, an imagination for reinvention. And it has such nervous, edgy energy that it can change any minute.
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• This voucher is only valid • This voucher is only rede Birkirkara, and Gozo. • This voucher is valid until The best way to appreciate the breathtaking • This voucher cityscape is from a high vantage point, such as is valid for it face valuethan on payment of the Empire State Building, which soars more • This voucher cannot be e a quarter of a mile above Manhattan. Another • We are not liable if this vo option is the Top of the Rock at the Rockefeller • We reserve the right to ca Center, where you can also enjoy the viewsconditions while may app • Other
See
dining at the Rainbow Rooms.
Shopping Christmas and shopping is such a wonderful New York combination, especially in that shopping metropolis that is Manhattan.
Stay If you cannot decide between old world charm and funky new design hotels, then the Carlton on Madison is your best option as it manages to bridge the two extremes. Located north of Madison Square Park, in one of the city’s more desirable areas, the Carlton prides itself on smooth service and luxurious details, such as the Penhaligon’s toiletries in your room. 72 –– FM November 2010
Start from Madison Avenue, which boasts 15 blocks of designer shops, such as Fratelli Rossetti and Calvin Klein, and flagship fashion house boutiques, including Prada, Chanel and Hermès. If you’re missing Versace, Ferragamo and Fendi, head to Fifth Avenue where you’ll find them, rubbing shoulders with high-end department stores such as Saks and Bergdorf’s. If your budget is rather more limited, then opt for Macy’s, home of all the big brands such as Guess and Esprit, or Bloomingdale’s for wellpriced American brands. For gadgets, nothing beats the Apple Store in SoHo, a two-floor space where you can test everything in sight or have a chat with the experts at the Genius Bar.
(For office Other landmarks across New York City’s five use only) boroughs are well worth a visit, as they look much better in real life than they do on film. Voucher No.
And for the culture vultures, a visit to the Museum of Modern Art, which hasRedemption the finest Date and largest collection of 20th and 21st century modern art, is a must. Sale No.
EAT
Cashier
New York is not a good place to keep your diet, because everywhere you look, there’s a delicacy waiting just for you.
Steak is on top of the New York menu. The Peter kids fa Luger Steak House has been serving the finest exemplars since 1887 – they’ve certainly fine| Ma Naxxar Road, BIRKIRKARA tuned their cuts in more than a century. For fine dining, try out Gordon Ramsay at the London, at 151 West 54th Street, while if you just ARK Tap a l'oeil voucher.indd 1 want the snack experience, try the Grand Central Station – it’s all there, from New York cheesecake to oysters at the landmark Oyster Bar and Restaurant.
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ashion from newborn to 14
kids fashion from newborn to 14
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LAST WORD
Zooming ahead
Boy zone
Name: Glenn Ellul Age: 19 Studying: Interactive media Loves: Photography and digital art Web: www.glennellul.com
For photographer Glenn Ellul, lens is definitely more.
I was still very young when I held my first camera. I was surprised at the idea of capturing a moment – it totally amused me. My first outing with my camera was a shoot in Gozo. That was when I realised that taking pictures was all I wanted to do. I have always been interested in visual arts. Culture and different lifestyles were the main inspiration for me to start taking photos. The process of sending a message through a photo fascinates me. My other love is fashion. I love clothes and am always checking out the latest trends – to do fashion photography means combining the two things I love doing best. Fashion magazines played a huge role in inspiring me to get involved in fashion photography. At the newsagent’s, I always seem to end up staring at fashion magazines. Although my passion is mostly for fashion photography I also shoot portraits, product photography and other genres. During a fashion shoot, you need to work as a team. It is very important that everyone feels comfortable working with the others. By sharing ideas and discussing them together, the process becomes much easier and the result will be satisfactory. I believe that communication between the model and the photographer is very important. On a shoot, I first introduce myself to the models and then try and build a relationship with them so that they will feel at ease. When it comes to the suggestions I give my models, it depends on the type of photography – most of the time I have an idea of the poses and the emotions I want to create in my mind beforehand. When taking photos, every place and time of the day can be used differently to create various subjects. Still, I prefer a studio shoot because that way I can control the light the way I like it. I am passionate about digital art. When showcasing a product, I have my own style and techniques. I create a striking story for every product so the viewer will not simply like what they see, but will also think about the message. I believe that with a good concept and an effective design, you can deliver your message. FM 74 –– FM November 2010
Republic Street
VALLETTA
The Plaza
SLIEMA
Main Street
The Great Value Fashion Store
PAOLA
Arkadia
GOZO