Furaj12

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Broj 12, JUNI 2018.

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

IZLETI

CRNA GORA MONTENEGRO

/ EXCURSIONS TREBINJE TREBIŽAT TREBEVIĆ KONJIC UNA

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

HALID BEŠLIĆ VESNA BEGANOVIĆ ŽELJKA RADAK KUKAVIČIĆ

LJEPOTE

BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE The Be au ty of Bo sni a and He rze gov ina



POTPUNO NOVA FIESTA

Osjeti. Svaki. Fiesta. Trenutak. Nova Fiesta ST-Line ostavlja snažan dojam, njen dizajn nadahnut performansama ne samo da privlači pažnju, već ju zahtjeva. Od elegantne sportske opreme do 17” aluminijskih felgi, svaki je detalj kreiran na način da se osjećate jednako dobro kao što izgledate. Za više informacija posjetite ford.ba Emisija CO2 93 g/km, prosječna potrošnja 3,7L/100km. Slika automobila je simbolična.

Ford partneri u BIH: Grand Automotive doo SARAJEVO, Alipašina bb, 033 558 830, info@grandautomotive.ba, www.ford.ba, radno vrijeme: ponedjeljak-petak 08:00-16:30 sati, subota 09:00-14:00 sati; Remex doo TUZLA, Husinskih rudara 351, 035 302 000, info@remex.ba, Auto-Centar doo BIJELJINA, Majevičkih Brigada Kvart T52/14, 055 350 305, auto-centar@teol.net.


Termin: 14.09. 10 dana 9 noći Avion

TEHERAN - KASHAN - ISFAHAN - YAZD - KHARANAQ - SHIRAZ PERSEPOLIS - PASARGAD cijena uključuje sve obilaske

Alekse Šantića 5 Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina 71000 033 263-330



SADRŽAJ 94 NOVOSTI 10 TEMA BROJA 24 Dobro došli u Crnu Goru! Željka Radak Kukavičić, direktorica NTOCG Moja zemlja Crna Gora 26 Nježna Podgorica 32 Primorje, vrela zabava na stotinjak plaža 36 Nacionalni parkovi Crne Gore 46 Eko sela Crne Gore, odmor visoko u planini 50 Čudesni kanjon Nevidio 5 INTERVJU I PRIČE Halid Bešlić, pjevač Omiljeni Bosanac 16 Vesna Beganović, osnivačica i direktorica agencije Via Media Žena iz budućnosti 56 Biljana Nedić, košarkašica Moj san je java 116 MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Top atrakcija Sarajeva Trebevićka žičara 78 Level up Odmaralište u srcu Trebevića 83 Visit Konjic 88 Ljetna avantura na rijeci Trebižat 92 Trebinje 260 dana sunca 94 Vrijeme je za Unu! 98

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FOTO EDITORIJAL 102 Adnan Bubalo, fotograf Čovjek koji razumije govor prirode PREDSTAVLJAMO Magične ramazanske noći u Sarajevu 62 Gazi Husrev-begova medresa 66 Čajdžinica Džirlo 74 Plantaža Blagaj Novi raj za turiste 112 POSJETILI SMO Doha – luksuzni grad s pet zvjezdica 122 10 RAZLOGA ZAŠTO POSJETITI KASTAMONU 126 KULINARSTVO Počinje sladoledomanija! 130 6

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CONTENT NEWS 10 COVER STORY 24 Welcome to Montenegro 22 Željka Radak Kukavičić, director of National Tourism Organization of Montenegro My country, Montenegro 26 Unpretentious Podgorica 32 The coast of Montenegro Sizzling times on a hundred beaches 36 National Parks in Montenegro 46 Vacation High up in the Mountains 50 Wondrous Nevidio Canyon 52

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INTERVJU I PRIČE Halid Bešlić, singer The Beloved Bosnian 16 Vesna Beganović, founder and director of Via Media agency A woman from the future 56 Biljana Nedić, basketball player My Dreams Are My Reality 116 MY WONDERFUL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Sarajevo’s Top Attraction Trebević Cable Car 72 Level up Resort in the Heart of Trebević 83 Visit Konjic 88 Summer Adventure on Trebižat River 92 Trebinje 260 Sunny Days 94

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PHOTO EDITORIAL 102 Adnan Bubalo, photographer A Man Who Understands What Nature Says WE PRESENT Magical Ramadan nights in Sarajevo 62 Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah 66 Džirlo Tea House 74 Fruit plantation in Blagaj New Heaven for Tourists 112

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WE VISITED Doha – Luxury 5-star City 122 10 REASONS TO VISIT KASTAMONU 126 CUISINE Smoothie Detox Ice Cream Craze Begins! 130 7


IMPRESSUM

FURAJ.BA Izdanje br. 12, Juni, 2018. Direktorica / Director Emira Azganović Urednica / Editor Elma Zećo Saradnici / Contributors Elvira Leka Sara Krajina Haris Karamehmedović Irfan Redžović Dizajn / Design Damir Hrnjičić Jasmina Sokolović Fotografija naslovnice / Cover Photo: Visit Konjic Prevod / Translation SMART prevođenje i edukacija Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.

Umnožavanje ove publikacije ili bilo kojeg njeog dijela ne smije se reproducirati, pohranjivati u sistemu za pretraživanje ili prenositi u bilo kojem obliku na bilo koji način, elektronički, mehanički, fotokopiranjem, snimanjem ili na drugi način, bez odobrenja izdavača. Redakcija FURAJ.BA magazina ne odgovara za sadržaj i istinitost objavljenih reklamnih poruka i preuzetih sadržaja sa pomenutih ili oglašavanih elektronskih lokacija. Ne snosimo odgovornost za nenamjerne i štamparske greške. Multiplication of this publication or any part of it mustn’t be reproduced, stored in search engines or transferred in any form, in any way, electronically, mechanically, copying, recording or any other way without the publisher’s approval. The editorial staff of the Furaj.ba magazine takes no responsibilities for the content and the validity of published advertising messages and downloaded content from above mentioned or advertised electronic sources. We don’t take responsibility for inadvertent and typographical errors. 8


www.furaj.ba

S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Uvodnik

Intro

Dragi čitatelji,

Dear readers,

Živimo dane najdinamičnije sezone. Vrijeme koje obično obilježe dešavanja koja nas drže ostatak godine. I ne moramo daleko otići da bismo to doživjeli. Jer, Una zove na regatu, Neretva na rafting, Trebižat na safari. Sarajevo će i dalje plijeniti turiste svojim duhom i dinamičnim sadržajem. Trebinje kafom ispod starih platana. Zašto na svakom ovom mjestu vrijedi ostati duže, saznat ćete u izdanju koje je pred vama.

We are currently living the days of the most dynamic season, a time that is usually marked by events which keep us going for the rest of the year. And, we do not have to go very far to experience it, because Una is calling us to the regatta, Neretva to raft, Trebižat on a safari. With its spirit and dynamic activities, Sarajevo will keep attracting tourists. Trebinje will do so with coffee one can drink under the shade of old platane trees.

Kao i uvijek, ljudske priče su tu da vas pokrenu, oplemene i osvijeste, a netipični i uspješni lokali uvjere da je ćeif naše prirodno stanje.

Read the present issue of the Furaj.ba magazine to find out why it is worth staying in each of these places longer. As always, personal stories are here to inspire you, enrich your life and open your eyes to something new or different, while non-typical and successful catering establishments are here to convince you that gusto is our natural state of being.

Sponzorisano / Sponsored by:

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NOVOSTI / NEWS

O BAG –PERSONALIZOVANE TORBE

DESIGN HOSTEL STARMO U neposrednoj blizini UNESCO zone i značajnih urbanih sadržaja Mostara otvoren je prvi ali i najveći design hostel u BiH. Design hostel StarMo smješten je u austrougarskoj zgradi s prelijepim pogledom na Stari grad. Krasi ga skladan spoj tradicionalnog i modernog, te unikatne grupne i privatne sobe koje svakom gostu pružaju mogućnost ugodnog boravka. Ovim činom obogaćena je turistička ponuda Mostara.

Okruženi šarolikim izborom O bag torbi, predstavnici medija na druženju u O bag storeu na prvom spratu BBI centra najprije su se upoznali s odličnim konceptom popularnog italijanskog brenda. Takvim ga čini mogućnost da kreirate svoju torbu, što znači da ćete sami moći odabrati različite dijelove torbi prilagodivši ih svom stilu i potrebama. Ukoliko kasnije budete željeli svoju torbu oplemeniti novim ručkama, kaišem, ili nekim drugim dodatkom, svaki pojedinačno moći ćete odvojeno kupiti. Osim personalizovanih torbi, O bag ima i svoju liniju interesantnih satova, koja funkcioniše po istom principu.

STARMO DESIGN HOSTEL In the immediate vicinity of UNESCO world heritage site and important facilities in the City of Mostar, the first and largest design hostel in B&H has been opened recently. StarMo Design Hostel is located in an Austro-Hungarian building featuring stunning views of the Old Bridge. It is a harmonious bled of traditional and modern elements offering unique rooms for groups and private rooms making each guest feel comfortable staying in. This hostel has boosted Mostar’s tourist offer.

TURISTIČKI VOZ ĆIRO Nova turistička atrakcija Travnika, voz Ćiro, odlična je prilika za obilazak grada i njegovih brojnih znamenitosti pri čemu putnici na nekoliko svjetskih jezika saznaju zanimljivosti o objektima i lokacijama pored kojih prolaze. U periodu od 9 do 15, te od 17 do 22.30 sati, voz saobraća na relaciji od Plave vode prema Starom gradu i Bašbunaru, dalje ide kroz grad, pored Šarene džamije, sve do početnog odredišta. Cijena vožnje je 5 KM.

ĆIRO TOURIST TRAIN A new tourist attraction in Travnik, the Ćiro train, is a great way to go around town and explore its numerous landmarks while listening to interesting stories available in several languages about the buildings and locations along the route. From 9 am to 3 pm, and from 5 pm to 10:30 pm, the route runs from Plava voda to the Old Town and Bašbunar, continues further through Travnik and passes by the Ornamented Mosque until it finally reaches the starting point. The ride costs BAM 5. 10

O BAG – PERSONALIZEDHANDBAGS Surrounded by a wide selection of O bag handbags, media representatives gathered at a social event at the O bag store located on BBI Center’s the first floor familiarized themselves with the amazing concept behind the popular Italian fashion brand. It is amazing because O bag gives you a unique option to create and customize your own handbag, which means that you can pick and choose your preferred colors, handles, trims and inserts to suit your style and needs. If you decide to accessorize your O bag handbag with new handles, trims or some other accessories later on, you can buy them separately. Apart from personalized handbags, O bag also has an interesting line of watches which works on the same principle.


PECKA OUTDOOR FESTIVAL U predivnom ambijentu sela Pecka, u kojem izvire rijeka Sana, u periodu od 25. do 27. maja održan je Pecka Outdoor Festival. Pecka je prvo selo koje ima snimljene i označene biciklističke staze, turističku mapu s ucrtanim stazama, ali i servis za bicikle. Tako je drugi dan festivala obilježen s Pecka MTB CUP-om, dok je treći dan bio rezervisan za porodicu, pa su posjetioci mogli da biraju vožnju biciklima, izlet na izvore Sane i estavelu Mračaj u pratnji vodiča, vježbe za snalaženje i preživljavanje u prirodi, penjanje za odvažne, radionice za djecu i trku biciklima, te zeleni market na otvorenom.

PECKA OUTDOOR FESTIVAL The Pecka Outdoor Festival was hosted in the wonderful ambiance of the Pecka Village, the place where the Sana River springs, from 25th to 27 May. Pecka is the first village to have filmed and market cycling routes, a tourist map locating cycling routes and a bicycle repair station. The Pecka MTB CUP was held on the second day of the festival, while the third day was reserved for a family day so visitors were able to choose between cycling, going on a picnic to the Sana River springs or a guided tour to the Mračaj estavelle*, participating in wilderness orientation and survival exercises, rock climbing for adrenaline enthusiasts, taking part in workshops for kids and cycling races or exploring an open-air green market. Estavelle (French) is an intermittent resurgence or exsurgence, active only in wet seasons; it may act alternatively as a swallow hole and as a rising according to ground-water conditions.

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t: +386 3 829 78 36, info@terme-olimia.com

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NOVOSTI / NEWS

Nektar OK Fest 2018. 2018 Nektar OK Fest Magična priroda, neponovljivi ambijent, odlična zabava, najbolje druženje, vrhunski bendovi i izvođači samo su dio onoga što mnogobrojnu publiku očekuje na 5. Nektar OK Festu na Tjentištu 6., 7. i 8. jula 2018. Preko 19 sati odličnog muzičkog programa svakoga dana u kombinaciji s adrenalinskim sadržajima raftinga, planinarskim šetnjama, obilaskom znamenitih vidikovaca i predjela nacionalnog parka, zaista će malo koga ostaviti

ravnodušnim. Prvog festivalskog dana očekuje vas program Bjutiful selekšn by: G Edd/Fedja Knajdl/Forniva, Laka i Zemlja Gruva. Večernji program rezervisan je za Hladno pivo, Kirila Djaikovskog i Stereo MC’s. Drugoga dana u odličnoj atmosferi posjetioci će uživati uz Back to roots by: DJ Umbo/Audio InFunktion, Obojeni program i Atheist Rap, Letu štuke, Jinx i Gibonnija. Vrhunac odlične atmosfere i dobrog provoda donosi i posljednji festival-

ski dan, nedjelja, 8. juli, programom Closing Summer stage by: Nebs Jack/Stefan Ivanković/Nikola Todorović. Tačno u 17.00 sati nastupaju Ritam nereda i Orthodox celts. Tokom nešto hladnijih večeri na Tjentištu gosti će se sigurno rasplesati i zagrijati uz Elemental, S.A.R.S. i Rudimental. Više informacija saznajte na www.okfest.net.

Kreću ljetne vrućine u kojima će naše tijelo još više patiti od naotečenosti i zadržavanja vode u organizmu, to je idealno vrijeme za tretman maderoterapije. U salonu ljepote Pink me up , već preoznatljivom po izvanrednim rezultatima i zadovoljnim klijenticama, masažom pomoću 11 različitih drvenih elemenata Vi ćete: riješiti se viška vode u organizmu, osloboditi tijelo od nakupljenih toksina, poboljšati probavu i vratiti tijelu energiju, poboljšati izgled i teksturu kože, i uz sve to eliminisati celulitne naslage i smanjiti obim Kada se u sve to uvjerite tretman maderoterapije će postati rutina u vašem životu. Posjetite nas u ulici Kralja Tvrtka 25 i započnite sa svojom misijom u zdraviji život i ljepši izgled.

Kralja Tvrtka 25, 71000 Sarajevo +387 62 05 05 07 12

www.pinkmeup.ba


Magical nature, incomparable ambiance, great fun, the best get together event, superb bands and performers are just some of the treats that await audiences at the 5th edition of Nektar OK Fest scheduled to take place at Tjentište on 6th, 7th and 8th July 2018. More than 19 hours of exceptional music program each day, combined with adrenaline-fueled activities such as white water rafting, hiking in the mountain, visiting renowned viewpoints and touring various areas in the national park, will not leave many visitors indifferent. On the first day of the festival visitors can expect the following artists to perform: Bjutiful selekšn by: G Edd/Fedja Knajdl/Forniva, Laka and Zemlja Gruva. Evening hours are reserved for Hladno pivo, Kiril Djaikovski and Stereo MC’s. On the second day, visitors will enjoy a great atmosphere listening to Back to roots by: DJ Umbo/Audio InFunktion, Obojeni program and Atheist Rap, Letu štuke, Jinx and Gibonni. The highlight of the festival’s amazing atmosphere is the last festival day—Sunday, 8th July—the Closing Summer stage by: Nebs Jack/Stefan Ivanković/ Nikola Todorović. At 5 pm sharp, Ritam nereda and Orthodox celts are scheduled to give a concert. On chilly nights, visitors of Tjentište will surely dance to the beat of and warm up listening to Elemental, S.A.R.S. and Rudimental. For more info, visit www.okfest.net

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S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

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15


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

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HALID BEŠLIĆ, PJEVAČ

Omiljeni

Bosanac

Pogotovo je poslije rata atmosfera u gradu sumorna. Non-stop slušam negativne priče, žalopoljke, to čovjeka umori. Ovdje je malo drugačije. I ja ulazim u godine, nisam više mlad da mogu sve podnijeti. Naravno, u Sarajevu postoji nekoliko lokala u kojima se okuplja moja generacija, ljudi s kojima imam zajednički jezik. Volite li prošetati Baščaršijom? - Volim, ali sa mnom je to nemoguća misija (smijeh). Na čaršiju odem obično kada imam goste, jer im želim pokazati ono što mi imamo.

''NAJVEĆE BOGATSTVO JE OBRAZ KOJI SAM STEKAO KROZ ŽIVOT, ŠTO ME LJUDI CIJENE KAO ČOVJEKA''

Šta Vam obično ljudi govore kada Vam priđu?

Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO, Fotografije: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

Uživam u malim stvarima

N

emoguće je da ćete sresti nekog iz BiH i cijelog regiona a da ne zna za Halida Bešlića, kojeg ljudi nerijetko doživljavaju kao pravi odraz bosanskog duha. On je srdačan čovjek, otvoren prema ljudima i životu, u slobodnoj interpretaciji, kao naši nekadašnji preci bogumili koji otvorenih ruku mašu sa stećaka izražavajući dobrodošlicu. Halid je voljen zato što se ponaša prirodno, kao da nijednog momenta nije okusio slavu. Osim dobrih pjesama, vjerovatno je i to razlog zašto je ušao u srca takvog mnoštva ljudi. Susreli smo se na njegovom privatnom posjedu pokraj Sarajeva, gdje provodi ubjedljivo najveći dio vremena. ''Svaki dan kada ustanem moj ritual je da dođem ovdje, popijem kafu, pročitam novine, ili nešto drugo, i tako okružen prirodom u potpunosti se razbudim. Ovo je mjesto s kojeg djelujem'', govori nam na početku intervjua za Furaj.ba.

Bježim od gradske gužve Šta su ovdje Vaše najčešće aktivnosti? - Mnogo šetam i razmišljam o daljim potezima koje želim preduzeti na ovom mjestu. Za sada je tu motel koji radi u sklopu benzinske pumpe, ali dvije, tri nove opcije mi se vrte po glavi. Mogu napraviti dom za starce, ili hotel, ili posebno restoran. Imam prelijep i neiskorišten plac, koji će još neko vrijeme biti moja oaza. Koga ugošćujete ovdje? - Dođe mi familija, najviše unučad radi kojih sam napravio malo igralište kako bismo provodili kvalitetno vrijeme. Ovo je faktički i naša vikendica, jer u motelu imam apartman. Vaš stan nalazi se na atraktivnoj lokaciji u centru Sarajeva, ali Vas očigledno grad umara. Od čega najviše bježite? - Od gužve. Hiljadu pitanja u minuti. Ne možeš odgovoriti ljudima.

- Svašta. Naprimjer, legendo, ili, joj, kokuz sam (smijeh).

Iduće godine obilježit ćete 40 godina muzičke karijere od izdavanja prvog singla. Imate li nešto u planu? - Nisam o tome ni razmišljao. Dali ste mi ideju. Muzikom sam se počeo baviti prije toga. Ako gledam estradni rad, to je od izdavanja prvog singla, a prije toga sam imao pet godina kafane, tako da sam 45 godina na sceni. Kada se osvrnem unazad, pjevanje po sarajevskim kafanama bio je moj najljepši dio života. Bio sam mlad, željan dokazivanja, sve se radilo s lakoćom. Kasnije se ulazi u razne probleme, ali sjećam se sreće kada sam izdao prvi singl. Danas kada mi se nešto lijepo desi, nemam te radosti kao tada. Kada ste se počeli baviti muzikom, jeste li željeli biti muzička zvijezda? - Na početku je bilo da mi je da snimim jednu singlicu, to mi se činilo kao velika stvar. Nisam razmišljao o uspjesima koje sam kasnije postigao, ali, to je norma17


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

lan slijed. Sada se priča privodi kraju. Ušao sam u seniorske, veteranske godine. Muzička scena se promijenila, ali Vi ste ostali vjerni dobroj pjesmi. Koji su Vaši kriteriji pri izboru pjesama? - Pjesma mi se mora svidjeti. Imam toliki muzički kapacitet da mi jeftina pjesma ne može proći. Rastao sam s kvalitetnim ljudima oko sebe i ima nešto što je mjera ispod koje se ne ide. Možda neke pjesme danas ne bih snimio koje jesam, ali njih je malo u poređenju s brojem dobrih pjesama, hitova i mega hitova. Nikada ne pjevam tuđe pjesme, što rijetko koji pjevač na estradi čini. Samo par sevdalinki ubacim u repertoarsku priču kada je fešta, ili koncert. Tako sam se postavio. Iskusili ste sve što reputacija popularnog pjevača nosi sa sobom, no šta biste rekli da je najveće bogatstvo koje Vam je donio veliki rad? - Najveće bogatstvo je obraz koji sam stekao kroz život, što me ljudi cijene kao čovjeka. Znaju malo pretjerati kada sam ja u pitanju, pa me previše nahvale. Moj odnos prema poslu i narodu bio je pošten. Bilo je svega u životu, od ratova do humanitarnih koncerata i pomaganja ljudima, ali vrijedilo je sve što sam uradio. Tu sam sretan i zadovoljan. Sve bude i prođe, jer sve ima početak i kraj. Avion polijeće i spušta se, takav je i život. Vi ste jedinstven primjer da nekog slava nije uspjela promijeniti. Šta je presudilo da ostanete jednostavan čovjek? - Takav sam tip čovjeka, što bi rekao Josip Pejaković - natakaren sam tako (smijeh). Uživam u malim stvarima, jednostavnosti i prirodnosti. Ne paše mi ništa što je nazor i ne volim uobraženost. Svako ima svoju priču, život, stil ponašanja. Ja sam takav po mom habitusu. 18

Moja zemlja BiH Proputovali ste svijetom. Šta Vas drži u BiH? - I druge zemlje imaju ljepote, ali ovdje sam rođen i to je jače od svega. Čovjek ne može mijenjati ono što jeste. Imam sreću da putujem. Kada se zasitim, mogu promijeniti. Kažu da je najbolje tamo gdje se čovjek rodio, tamo je za njega najbolja hrana i najbolja klima. Gdje volite privatno otputovati? - Volim more, Jadran, a ima jedna zemlja koja bi mogla zamijeniti BiH samo da nije daleko. To je Australija, jer mi odgovara tamošnja klima. Inače, nisam ljubitelj skijanja ni snijega, mada sam rođen na Romaniji. Imamo četiri, pet mjeseci prave zime, što je previše za nekoga ko voli proljeće, jesen i ljeto. Međutim, kada dođeš u Australiju odmah bi se vratio, jer imaš osjećaj da si došao na kraj svijeta. Uvijek ste isticali značaj porodice, a prije skoro četiri godine postali ste i djed blizanaca Lamije i Belmina Kana. - To su dedine oči! Njih dvoje me budi ujutro. Svaki dan dođu, jer sin Dino i ja stanujemo stan do stana. Uvijek duže spavam, a oni čim ustanu stižu. Maltretiraju me loptom (smijeh). Igramo se zajedno.

Kako se nosite s godinama? - Obraćam pažnju na ishranu. Poslije udesa sam se ugojio i to sam teško podnosio. Izbacio sam maltene u potpunosti i hljeb i slatkiše. Kada sam prestao pušiti, udebljao sam se 25 kila. Smršao sam 15, ostalo je još deset. Također, nisam još riješio pitanje nosa, morat ću uraditi jednu operaciju i zbog disanja. U ozbiljnim sam godinama, 64, ali ne bojim se starenja. Život je savršeno posložen i svaka životna faza nosi svoje dobre momente.

Sretno djetinjstvo ''Kada bismo kao djeca dobili čokoladu, radovali bismo se po nekoliko dana. Iako je vrijeme mog odrastanja na selu bilo siromašno, nismo imali problem kukanja. Kada god spomenem djetinjstvo, ja sam bio sretan, dok sada nameću da nisu sretni, to mi malo smeta. Dosta se toga ima, ali potrošačko društvo je takvo. Treba znati raspodijeliti novac.''


HALID BEŠLIĆ, SINGER

The Beloved

Bosnian

“MY GREATEST TREASURE IS THE REPUTATION I’VE EARNED IN MY LIFE, BEING APPRECIATED AS A PERSON” Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO, Photos: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

I

t is not possible to come across someone from B&H and the region who does not know who Halid Bešlić is. People often perceive him as a personification of the Bosnian spirit. He is a cordial man who keeps an open mind to people and life… if you interpret him freely, he is like our former ancestors, the Bogomils, who welcome people with open hands, waving at them from medieval tombstones called stećci. People love Halid because he acts downto-earth as if he had never tasted fame. Apart from good songs, that is probably the reason why he holds a special place in the heart of so many people. We came to meet him at his private property in the vicinity of Sarajevo where he spends most of his time. “I have a ritual each day when I get up in the morning, and that’s to come here, have coffee, read the papers or something else, and fully wake up surrounded by nature. This is the place I operate from,” he tells us at the beginning of our interview for Furaj.ba magazine.

I run from the hustle and bustle of the city What activities do you do most frequently? - I walk a lot and I think about the next moves I wish to make here. 19


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

For now, there’s the motel that operates within the gas station I own, but there are two or three new options that I keep turning over in my mind. I could build a home for the elderly, or a hotel, or a restaurant as a separate business. I have a wonderful piece of unused land and I’m keeping it as my oasis for a while. Who are the guests that you host at your motel? - My family members come here, my grandchildren most of all, and they’re the reason why I built a small playground so that we could spend some quality time together. This is, in fact, our vacation home, because I own an apartment in the motel. You have an apartment in an attractive location in the center of Sarajevo, but it’s evident that the city’s tiring you out. What do you run from the most? 20

- From the hustle and bustle. A thousand questions in a minute. You can’t answer people’s questions. The atmosphere in the city has been gloomy especially after the war. I hear negative stories, people whining all the time, and it’s tiring. It’s different around here. I’m getting older, I’m no longer young and able to take it all. Sure, there are a few places in Sarajevo where people of my age get together, people I share common interests with. Do you like taking walks at Baščaršija? - I do, but with me, it’s a mission impossible (laughs). I usually go to čaršija when guests come for a visit, because I want to show them what we have. What do people usually tell you when they approach you? - All kinds of things. For example, you’re a legend, or, man, I’m flat broke (laughs).

I Enjoy the Small Things Next year marks the 40th anniversary of your music career—40 years since you released your first single. Do you have any plans? - I haven’t even thought of it. You just gave me an idea. I entered the music industry before that. If I take into account my activities in the industry, my career started with the release of my first single, but before that I had sung in cafés for five years, so I’ve been on stage for 45 years. When I look back, I find that singing in cafés in Sarajevo was the best part of my life. I was young, I wanted to prove myself; it was easy to do whatever you wanted. Later on, you start having all sorts of problems, but I remember how happy I was when I released my first single. Nowadays, when something wonderful happens, I’m not quite as happy as I used to be back then.


When you entered the music industry, did you want to be a music star? - At the beginning, I just wanted to record a song, I thought that was a big deal. I hadn’t thought of the success I’d come to achieve afterwards, but that’s how things usually come to be. Now the story’s coming to an end. I’ve reached the age for retirement, the age of a veteran. The music scene has changed, but you’ve stayed true to a good song. Which criteria do you use when selecting your songs? - I have to like the song. I’m so experienced in the music business that there’s no way for me not to recognize a cheap song. I grew up surrounded by professionals and there’s a certain level of quality that’s not to be lowered. Maybe I wouldn’t have recorded some of the songs I did earlier, but the number of such songs is low compared to the number of good songs, hits and mega hits. I never sing other singers’ songs, which is rare for singers in the music industry. I just add a few traditional Bosnian songs (sevdalinka) to my repertoire story when there’s a festivity or a concert. That’s how I set it up. You’ve experienced everything that having the reputation of a popular singer brings with it, but what would you say is the greatest treasure that hard work has brought to you? - My greatest treasure is the reputation I’ve earned in my life, being appreciated as a person. People tend to exaggerate a bit when it comes to who I am, so they praise me too much. My attitude towards work and people has been fair. All kinds of things happened in my life, from wars to charity concerts and helping people out, but everything I’ve done was worth it. I’m happy and content with it. Whatever hap-

pens, happens and passes, because everything has a beginning and an end. A plane takes off and lands, and life is the same. You are unique because being famous has not changed you. What was the crucial factor in your ability to remain a simple man? - I’m that type of man, as Josip Pejaković puts it – that’s just the way I am (laughs). I enjoy the small things in life, things that are simple and natural. Nothing that’s forced on me works for me, and I don’t like vanity. Everyone has their story, life, manners. That’s who I am, by nature.

My Country—B&H You’ve traveled the world. What makes you stay in B&H? - Other countries are beautiful too, but I was born here and that’s more powerful than anything else. You can’t change who you are. I’ve been fortunate enough to travel. When I grow tired of it, I can do something else instead. They say that the place you were born in is the best place to be, the best food for you is there and so is the climate. Where do you like to travel for pleasure? - I love the seaside, the Adriatic Sea, and there’s one country that could replace B&H only if it weren’t so far away. That’s Australia, because the climate in Australia suits me. Anyway, I’m not a fan of skiing and I don’t like snow, even though I was born in Mount Romanija. We have winters that last for four-five months, real winters that last for five months, which is too much for someone who likes the spring, fall and summer seasons. However, when you reach Australia you immediately want to come back home, because you feel as if you’ve reached the end of the world.

You’ve always emphasized how important your family is to you, and nearly four years ago you became a grandfather to twins Lamija and Belmin Kan. - They are the apple of their grandpa’s eyes! Those two wake me up in the morning. They come every day, as my son Dino lives next door to me. I always sleep in, but as soon as they’re up, they come to me. They keep bugging me to play ball with them (laughs). We play together. How do you cope with aging? - I care about what I eat. After the car crash, I gained some weight and had a hard time dealing with it. I practically cut out bread and sweets altogether. When I quit smoking, I gained 25 kilos. I’ve lost 15 kilos since, and have ten more kilos to lose. Also, I still haven’t dealt with the problem I have with my nose, so I’ll have to undergo surgery in order to breathe properly as well. I’m at a serious age, 64, but I’m not afraid of aging. My life is perfectly organized the way it is, and each stage of life has its good moments.

Happy Childhood “When we were kids and we’d get a chocolate bar, we’d be happy for days on end. Even though times were poor when I was growing up in the countryside, we didn’t whine about it. Whenever I mention my childhood years, I say I was happy, but now people keep emphasizing how unhappy they are, and this bothers me a little. People possess many things, but that’s what a consumer society is about. You need to know how to distribute money.”

21


PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

MI SMO SEAT JESTE LI ZNALI?

1. SEAT je osnovan 1950. kada su u Španiji postojala svega tri automobila na 1000 stanovnika.

4. Svi SEAT-ovi modeli se proizvode u Martorellu, s tim da su izuzetak Ateca i Mii.

2. SEAT je kratica za Sociedad Española de Automoviles Turismo, što se prevodi kao Društvo Španije za automobilski turizam.

5. Martorell obuhvata površinu veću od 400 fudbalskih terena i jedina je fabrika automobila u svijetu koja koristi preko 53.000 solarnih kolektora u svrhu stvaranja potrebne energije za proizvodnju (50%).

3. SEAT upošljava preko 14.000 profesionalaca u svojim fabrikama Martorell, Zona Franca i El Prat de Llobregat.

6. Svakih 40 sekundi ovdje se pro-

izvede jedan automobil, odnosno dnevno preko 2.100 vozila. 7. Od 1986. SEAT je član VW grupacije. 8. Prisutan je na 75 tržišta širom svijeta. 9. Ima 17 miliona proizvedenih automobila. 10. Ibiza je SEAT-ov najpopularniji model prodat skoro 5.5 miliona puta kroz četiri generacije.

WE ARE SEAT DID YOU KNOW?

1. SEAT was founded in 1950 when Spain counted only three vehicles per 1,000 inhabitants. 2. SEAT stands for Sociedad Española de Automoviles Turismo, which means Spanish Society of Car Tourism. 3. SEAT employs more than 14,000 professionals in its factories in Martorell, Zona Franca and El Prat de Llobregat.

22

4. All SEAT car models are manufactured at Martorell, except Ateca and Mii. 5. The surface area of Martorell spans more than 400 football fields and is the only car factory in the word that uses over 53,000 solar collectors generating 50% of the electricity it consumes. 6. One car is manufactured every 40 seconds, which means that

the daily production is around 2,100 cars. 7. SEAT has been a member of the Volkswagen Group since 1986. 8. SEAT sells its cars in 75 countries worldwide. 9. SEAT has manufactured 17 million cars. 10. With more than 5,5 million sold units in four generations, the SEAT Ibiza is its most popular model.


www.seat.ba/ateca

• • • • •

SEAT Full LED prednja svjetla 18"Alu felge "Performance" Sportska sjedišta u Alcantari Izbor modusa vožnje - SEAT Drive Profile Zadnji parking senzori

www.facebook.com/SeatBiH Finansiranje putem Porsche Leasinga: NKS 3,99% / EKS 5,65%

PORSCHE SARAJEVO • Sarajevo • Bulevar Meše Selimovića 16 • Tel.: 033 775 315; INTER AUTO TUZLA • Tuzla • 1. tuzlanske brigade 2 • Tel: +387 35 265 265; AUTORAD d.o.o. Brčko • Brčko • Grbavica bb • Tel: +387 54 810 091; UNA AUTO • Bihać • Put Armije BiH bb • Tel: +387 37 350 008; APOLO • Mostar • Put za Aluminij bb • Tel: +387 36 352 830

23


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

DOBRO DOŠLI U CRNU GORU! • Zemlju koja se prema izvještaju Svjetskog savjeta za putovanja i turizam (WTTC) nalazi među najbrže rastućim turističkim destinacijama u svijetu. • Zemlju o kojoj su pisali respektabilni mediji Perzijskog zaljeva, Kine, Australije, Turske, Velike Britanije, Njemačke, Španije, Francuske i Italije kao idealnoj destinaciji za odmor na moru, aktivni odmor u prirodi i nacionalnim parkovima, te kupovinu nekretnine. • Zemlju u kojoj ni najizbirljiviji gosti ne mogu ostati ravnodušni pred toliko raznovrsnim izborom, posebno tokom ljetnih mjeseci. • Zemlju koja je još 1992. godine proglašena ekološkom državom. • Zemlju najvećeg rezervoara pitke vode i najdubljeg kanjona u Evropi. • Zemlju sunca i šampiona. • Zemlju zabave pod vedrim nebom i popularnih karnevala.

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WELCOME TO MONTENEGRO! • A country that is among the fastest growing tourist destinations in the world according to the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC). • A country that has been featured as an ideal destination for summer beach vacations, active outdoor and national park vacations, and for property purchase in respected media outlets based in the Persian Gulf, China, Australia, Turkey, Great Britain, Germany, Spain, France and Italy. • A country where even the most demanding customers cannot stay indifferent to the wide range of possibilities at their disposal particularly during the summer months. • A country which was declared an ecological state as early as 1992. • A country with the largest drinking water storage facility and the deepest canyon in Europe. • A country of sunshine and champions. • A country of fun in the open air and a country of popular carnivals.

25


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

ŽELJKA RADAK KUKAVIČIĆ, DIREKTORICA NACIONALNE TURISTIČKE ORGANIZACIJE CRNE GORE

MOJA ZEMLJA

CRNA GORA


''ČESTO SVOJIM SARADNICIMA ZNAM REĆI DA SMO PRIVILEGOVANI, JER RADIMO NAJLJEPŠI POSAO U CRNOJ GORI, I TO ZAISTA MISLIM'' Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO

K

ontinuirani trend rasta turističkog prometa i prihoda karakteriše proteklu deceniju crnogorskog turizma kada su se prihodi od turističkog prometa gotovo učetverostručili i približili cifri od milijardu eura u godini za nama. Iako je promocija jedan od ključnih faktora za pozicioniranje jedne destinacije, kojoj Crna Gora itekako posvećuje pažnju, za postignute uspjehe zaslužne su, ipak, velike investicije u ukupnu turističku infrastrukturu i unapređenje dostupnosti Crne Gore kao turističke destinacije. Vrijednost investicija procijenjena je na oko tri milijarde eura, pa ne čudi što je shodno izvještajima Svjetskog savjeta za putovanja i turizam WTTC Crna Gora već godinama svrstana među najbrže rastuće turističke destinacije.

IZAZOVNA PROFESIJA

SVI NAŠI GOSTI ''Najbrojniji turistički gosti dolaze iz Srbije, Rusije, BiH, Ukrajine, Francuske, Poljske, Njemačke, Turske, Velike Britanije i Albanije. Pored toga što se bilježi iz godine u godinu veći broj gostiju iz zemalja Zapadne, Srednje i Sjeverne Evrope, zadovoljstvo mi je što sve više turista s dalekih tržišta poput Kine, Japana i Izraela, otkriva našu destinaciju.''

Turizam je u Crnoj Gori važna privredna grana. Koliko je u tom smislu zahtjevno biti na čelu Nacionalne turističke organizacije Crne Gore? - Činjenica da ukupni doprinos turizma BDP-u iznosi preko 22% BDP-a, a da se prema prognozama WTTC-a očekuje da do 2026. godine taj udio bude čak 30%, dovoljno govori o važnosti turizma za crnogorsku ekonomiju. Razvoj turizma na održivim osnovama strateško je opredjeljenje naše države i u tom smislu pred organizaciju na čijem sam čelu stavljaju se zahtjevni zadaci. Kreiranje i unapređenje imidža zemlje, pozicioniranje Crne Gore na turističkoj mapi svijeta,

osmišljavanje novih ponuda i unapređenje postojećih, koje će ne samo turistima biti doživljaj za pamćenje, nego i mogućnost za otvaranje novih radnih mjesta i ostvarivanje prihoda za sve koji rade u turizmu, podrazumijeva koordinirane aktivnosti, komunikaciju i saradnju u radu. Turizam nosi sa sobom brojne izazove, ali su izazovi, smatram, sastavni dio svakog posla. Privilegija je raditi u oblasti koja predstavlja jedan od stubova razvoja zemlje. Kakvi komentari prate najčešće Crnu Goru? - Prema Guest Survey istraživanju o stavovima i potrošnji turista koje je Nacionalna turistička organizacija sprovela tokom ljetne turističke sezone 2017. godine, dobijeni podaci odaju ukupni utisak da su turisti zadovoljni elementima turističke ponude i da je Crna Gora atraktivna turistička destinacija. Najbolje su ocijenjene ljepote prirode i kraja, ljubaznost osoblja u smještajnom objektu, komfor smještaja, gostoljubivost lokalnog stanovništva, lična sigurnost, slikovitost i uređenost mjesta. Rezultati istraživanja pokazali su da nam se gosti rado vraćaju. Preko 65% turista više puta boravilo je u Crnoj Gori. Kada su u pitanju turisti iz BiH, njih preko 79% ispitanih, našu zemlju posjetilo je više od tri puta. Šta biste Vi preporučili svakom turisti koji dođe u Crnu Goru? - Naše plaže tradicionalno su glavni motiv za dolazak turista na crnogorsko primorje, no uz uživanje u suncu i moru vrijedi otkriti i


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY drugačiju Crnu Goru. Krstarenje Skadarskim jezerom, popularno posmatranje ptica u ovom nesvakidašnjem rezervatu rijetkih vrsta, osvježenje od ljetnih vrućina u Lipskoj pećini izuzetne speleološke vrijednosti, šetnja posljednjom prašumom u Evropi - Biogradskom gorom, obilazak Crnog jezera na Durmitoru, vožnja panoramskom rutom između jezera i mora u Baru s uređenim vidikovcima, samo su neke od aktivnosti koje bih preporučila. Za one željne adrenalina nezaobilazan je čuveni rafting rijekom Tarom, ili prolazak kroz kanjon Nevidio, nakon čega ih očekuje potpuni odmor u prirodi u nekom od etno sela na sjeveru Crne Gore. Od ove godine u ponudi su i dva novootvorena moderna avanturistička parka u Kolašinu i na Žabljaku, pa je moj prijedlog turistima iz BiH da ovog ljeta na putu do mora ne propuste sjeverni dio naše zemlje. Kakva će biti ljetna sezona 2018. na crnogorskom primorju? - Ove sezone za turiste je spremno 438 uređenih kupališta, među njima čak 30 na kojima će se vijoriti prestižno međunarodno ekološko priznanje – Plava zastavica. I ovog ljeta obećavamo dobru zabavu. Imat ćemo preko 200 manifestacija, od popularnih muzičkih, zatim kulturnih kakve su Grad Teatar u Budvi, Purgatorije u Tivtu, Barski ljetopis, Montenegro Film Festival u Herceg Novom ili Kotor Art Festival, do modnih, umjetničkih i sportsko-rekreativnih poput festivala Tri kanjona u Pivi. Novina koja će obilježiti ovo ljeto je pridruživanje hotela Chedi nizu svjetskih hotelskih brendova koji posluju u Crnoj Gori. To je prvi od sedam hotela čija je izgradnja predviđena u okviru Luštice Baya, turističkog grada vrijednog 1,1 milijardu eura. Hotel će sadržati 111 soba, 51 u sklopu hotela i 60 u vidu privatnih kondominijuma dostupnih kao ekskluzivni studio apartmani za odmor. Luštica Bay marina se otvara ove 28

godine sa 176 vezova, odnosno marina naselja s nekoliko stambenih kvartova. Oni podrazumijevaju različite vrste stambenih jedinica od stanova do najluksuznijih objekata, porodičnih kuća i vila.

i odgovornost osnovni su preduslovi za uspjeh. Naravno, ukoliko imate sreću da imate tim ljudi koji dijeli iste vrijednosti, uspjeh ne može izostati.

TIMSKI RAD Koliko dugo djelujete već u turizmu? - Već više od 15 godina radim u oblasti turizma. Na dužnost direktorice Nacionalne turističke organizacije Crne Gore stupila sam u decembru 2014. godine s pozicije generalne direktorice Direktorata za upravljanje turističkom destinacijom u Ministarstvu održivog razvoja i turizma. Kroz dugogodišnji rad u resoru zaduženom za turizam stekla sam, zaista, veliko iskustvo u ovoj oblasti. Dinamika posla, saradnja s inostranstvom, kreiranje i promovisanje ponude zemlje čiji je turistički potencijal ogroman, te joj izvjesno tek predstoji puni turistički prosperitet, za mene su istovremeno izazov i čast. Timski rad, volja i spremnost svih nas da unaprijedimo ponudu i poslovni ambijent, kada se sagledaju rezultati, mjesto i značaj Crne Gore na turističkoj mapi, daju rezultate. Moj posao mi pričinjava veliko zadovoljstvo. Često svojim saradnicima znam reći da smo privilegovani, jer radimo najljepši posao u Crnoj Gori, i to zaista mislim. Ko je Vama bio vjetar u leđa tokom izgradnje karijere? - Od početka mog radnog angažmana imala sam sreću da radim sa sjajnim timovima mojih kolega koji su nesebično dijelili znanje, stečena iskustva i pružali mi podršku. Naravno, moja poslovna karijera ne bi bila moguća bez bezuslovne podrške porodice. Iako sam veoma često bila suočena s brojnim izborima i odricanjima, i nije bilo lako, uz razumijevanje mojih najbližih, uspijevala sam da odgovorim zahtjevima posla kojim se bavim. Rad, posvećenost poslu

Kada bi Vas stranci pitali da opišete svoju zemlju, šta biste rekli? - Crna Gora je zemlja raznovrsnosti. Ovdje svako može naći nešto za sebe i prema svom budžetu. I porodice s djecom, i mladi koji tragaju za provodom, i ljubitelji netaknute prirode, i oni željni adrenalina i aktivnog odmora... U jednom danu možete sebi priuštiti više različitih atrakcija, uživanja i doživjeti uvijek drugačiju Crnu Goru. Teško da i najizbirljiviji gosti mogu ostati ravnodušni pred tako raznovrsnim izborom, posebno tokom ljetnih mjeseci. Upravo tu raznovrsnost ponude, spoj kontrasta, bogatstvo različitosti, nesvakidašnja iskustva na svakom koraku koja oduzimaju dah, najbolje opisuje naš slogan Wild Beauty po kojem smo, na moje zadovoljstvo, sve više prepoznatljivi u svijetu.


ŽELJKA RADAK KUKAVIČIĆ, DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION OF MONTENEGRO

My Country,

MONTENEGRO ''I OFTEN TEND TO SAY TO MY CO-WORKERS THAT WE ARE PRIVILEGED, BECAUSE WE ARE DOING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WORK IN MONTENEGRO, AND I REALLY MEAN IT''

T

he past decade of Montenegrin tourism is characterized by continuous growth trend of tourist traffic and revenues, when the revenues from tourist traffic almost quadrupled and came close to a billions of euros in the past year. Although promotion is one of the key factors for the positioning of a

destination, to which Montenegro is paying much attention, achieved successes were still reached by large investments in the overall tourist infrastructure and the promotion of Montenegro's accessibility as a tourist destination. The value of the investment is estimated at about three billion euros, so it is not

surprising that, according to reports from the World Travel and Tourism Council WTTC Montenegro has for years been ranked among the fastest growing tourist destinations.

CHALLENGING PROFESSION Tourism in Montenegro is an important economic branch. How challenging is it, in that sense, to be at the forefront of the National Tourism Organization of Montenegro? - The fact that the overall contribution of tourism to GDP amounts to over 22% of GDP, and that according to WTTC forecasts, by 2026 this share will be as much as 30%, says enough about the importance of tourism for the Montenegrin economy. Sustainable tourism development is the strategic commitment of our country and in that sense, the demanding tasks are put in front of an organisation of which I am at the forefront. 29


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Creating and improving the image of the country, positioning Montenegro on the tourist map of the world, creating new offers and improving existing ones, which will not only be memorable for tourists, but also will become an opportunity for opening new jobs and generating income for everyone working in tourism, implies coordinated activities, communication and co-operation. Tourism carries with it many challenges, but I think that challenges are an integral part of every job. It is a privilege to work in a field that is one of the pillars of the country's development. What kind of comments are mostly made of Montenegro? - According to the Guest Survey research on the attitudes and consumption of tourists conducted by

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ALL OUR GUESTS ''The most numerous tourist guests come from Serbia, Russia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Ukraine, France, Poland, Germany, Turkey, Great Britain and Albania. Apart from the rising number of guests from Western, Middle and North Europe, I am pleased that there are ever more tourists from far away markets, such as China, Japan and Israel who are discovering our destination.'' the National Tourism Organisation during the summer tourist season in 2017, the data obtained gives the overall impression that tourists are satisfied with the elements of tourist offer and that Montenegro is an attractive tourist destination. The best reviews are given to the beauty of nature and regions, the courtesy of the staff at the accommodation facility, the comfort of accommodation, the hospitality of the local population, personal security, the vividness and the orderliness of the place.

The research results have shown that our guests are happy to return. More than 65% of tourists stayed in Montenegro several times. When it comes to tourists from B&H, over 79% of those surveyed have visited our country more than three times. What would you recommend to every tourist who comes to Montenegro? - Our beaches are traditionally the main reason for the arrival of tourists to the Montenegrin coast, but as well as enjoying the sun and the sea, it is also worth discovering a different Montenegro. Cruising on Skadarsko Lake, the popular bird watching in this unusual reserve of rare species, a refreshment from the summer heat in the Lipska cave of exceptional speleological value, a walk through the last virgin forest in Europe - Biogradska gora, a visit to the Black Lake on Durmitor, a panoramic route drive between the lakes and the sea in Bar with organised viewpoints, are just some of the activities that I would recommend. For the adrenaline seekers, the famous rafting on the Tara river is a


must, or to pass through the Nevidio canyon, after which they can expect a complete relaxation in nature in one of the ethnic villages in the north of Montenegro. From this year, there are also two newly opened modern adventure parks in Kolašin and Žabljak, so I would recommend to tourists from B&H not to miss this summer the northern part of our country on their way to the sea. What will the summer season 2018 be like on the Montenegrin coast? - This season will meet the tourists with 438 well-kept beaches, including 30 of them with a prestigious international ecological acknowledgment - the Blue Flag. And this summer we promise a good party. We will have over 200 events, from popular music and cultural ones, such as the City Theater in Budva, the Purgatory in Tivat, the Bar yearbook, Montenegro Film Festival in Herceg Novi or the Kotor Art Festival, to fashion, art and sport-recreation events like the festival Three Canyons in Piva. The news that will mark this summer is the joining of Chedi hotel to a number of global hotel brands operating in Montenegro. It is the first of the seven hotels whose construction is planned within Luštica Bay, a tourist city worth 1.1 billion euros. The hotel will contain 111 rooms, 51 in the hotel and 60 in the form of private condominiums available as exclusive studio holiday apartments. Luštica Bay marina opens this year with 176 berths, i.e. marinas with several residential quarters. They include different types of housing units, from apartments to the most luxurious buildings, family houses and villas.

team effort How long have you been working in tourism? - I have been working in the field of tourism for more than 15 years. I became the director of National Tourism Organisation of Montenegro in December 2014, after working as a general manager of Directorate for Tourism Destination Management at the Ministry of Sustainable Development and Tourism. Throughout many years of work in the field of tourism, I have gained a great experience in this field. The dynamics of the job, cooperation with foreign countries, the creation and promotion of the offer of a country whose tourism potential is huge, and which is, of course, still facing full tourist prosperity, are to me at the same time a challenge and an honour. Teamwork, willingness and readiness of all of us to improve the offer and the business environment, give results in terms of achievements, the placing and importance of Montenegro on the tourist map. My job is a great pleasure to

me. Often I can say to my associates that we are privileged because we are doing the most beautiful job in Montenegro, and I really mean it. Who was the wind in your back when you were building your career? - Since the beginning of my work engagement, I had the good fortune to work with the brilliant teams of colleagues who unselfishly shared the knowledge, gained experiences and who supported me. Of course, my business career would not have been possible without the unconditional support of my family. Although I was often faced with numerous choices and sacrifices, and it was not easy, with the understanding of my closest ones, I managed to succeed in answering the demands of the work. Work, dedication to work, and responsibility are the basic preconditions for success. Of course, if you are lucky enough to have a team of people sharing the same values, success cannot be missed.

If foreigners asked you to describe your country, what would you say? - Montenegro is a country of diversity. Everyone here can find something for themselves and according to their budget. Families with children, young people who are looking for a good time, and lovers of intact nature, and those who want adrenaline and active vacations ... In one day you can afford several different attractions and pleasures, and always experience a different Montenegro. It is difficult for even the most picky of guests to remain indifferent with such a variety of choices, especially during the summer months. It is precisely the versatility of the offer, the blend of contrasts, the richness of diversity, the unusual experiences at every breathtaking step, that is best described by our Wild Beauty slogan, which is, to my satisfaction, more and more recognisable worldwide. 31


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

a c i r o g d o P a Nježn Poprište kulture, sporta i umjetnosti

CRNOGORSKA PRIJESTOLNICA, NA LONELY PLANETU OPISANA KAO RELAKSIRAJUĆA I NJEŽNA, LEŽI U DOLINAMA RIJEKA MORAČE, ZETE, RIBNICE, CIJEVNE I SITNICE, OKRUŽENA S TRI JEZERA - SKADARSKIM, BUKUMIRSKIM I RIKAVAČKIM.

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ekada raskrsnica strujanja roba, trgovaca, kurira i putnika, danas je Podgorica mjesto odvijanja svih velikih internacionalnih kulturnih i sportskih događaja, dok je posebno zimi prepoznata kao grad mladih zahvaljujući odličnom noćnom životu. 32

GRAD PRIRODE I OSEBUJNE PROŠLOSTI Podgoričani žive u ugođaju 173 hektra zelenih površina i mediteranske klime. Njihov grad slovi za jedan od najtoplijih u Evropi s velikim brojem sunčanih dana i malo padavina, a jedno od svjedočanstava da je stanovništvo uvijek bilo okrenuto prirodi i njenom očuvanju je i Prirodnjački muzej, čija je ključna misija istraživanje biodiverziteta Crne Gore i prezentacija njenih vrijednosti putem izložbi, predavanja i publikacija. Od davnina je teritorij današnje Podgorice, čije se ime prvi put spominje 1326., bio pogodno tlo

za formiranje ljudskih naselja. O tome svjedoče na 4 km od centra Podgorice ostaci antičkog grada Duklje iz prve decenije 1. vijeka nove ere, koja se još uvijek istražuje i zauzima važno mjesto u svjetskoj arheologiji. U knjigu postojanja Podgorice, poslije Drugog svjetskog rata prozvane Titogradom, upisale su se tako sve velike imperije, pored Rimskog carstva, i Osamansko carstvo, te, na koncu, Austro-Ugarska monarhija. U srcu grada nalazi se tako još uvijek most iz perioda rimske vladavine predstavljajući danas najstariji podgorički most - Most na Sastavcima. U obliku je jednog luka i visok svega nekoliko


metara, a mladi ga od milja nazivaju Skaline. Duh Orijenta osjeti se u Staroj Varoši, jezgro Podgorice u doba Osmanlija, utapajući se u urbani centar prijestolnice. Simbol ovog vremena je Sahat kula, koju je na Trgu Bećirbega Osmanagića sagradio Hafis-paša Osmanagić.

STARE I NOVE ZNAMENITOSTI Podgorica nudi brojna mjesta za razgledanje. Vrijedi vidjeti i njena okolna sela, Mauzolej Marka Miljanova u Kučima, Kusleovu kuću i, posebno, Saborni hram Hristovog vaznesenja, koji plijeni poglede svojom monumentalnošću. Gradnja znamenitosti novijeg datuma sa 17 zvona u kulama visokim preko 26 metara počela je početkom devedesetih godina i trajala je punih 20 godina. Najveće zvono teško je 11 tona i najveće je na Balkanu. Na listi svetih objekata pravoslavlja su također brojni manastiri poput Manastira Ćelija Piperska i manastira Dajbabe. No, Podgorica se može pohvaliti i lijepim bogomoljama katoličanstva i islama, kao što su Rimokatolička crkva posvećena Presvetom Srcu Isusovu, Crkva Sv. Antuna, Skender Čauševa – Starodoganjska džamija, te Osmanagića džamija u čijem se dvorištu nalazi turbe graditelja Mehmed-paše Osmanagića. Ko želi na jednom mjestu doživjeti historijat Podgorice, treba se obavezno zaputiti do Muzeja grada Podgorice, koji čuva bogatu arheološku, kulturnu, etnografsku i historijsku zbirku. Neki od najljepših trenutaka prilikom upoznavanja grada zagarantovani su u njegovom najljepšem dijelu, u parku na Kruševcu, gdje se nalazi Centar savremene umjetnosti s dvorcem crnogorske dinastije Petrovića.

Unpretentious

Podgorica Hotspot of Culture, Sports and Arts

THE CAPITAL OF MONTENEGRO, DESCRIBED AS A RELAXING AND UNPRETENTIOUS CITY ON THE LONELY PLANET WEBSITE, SITS IN THE VALLEY OF RIVERS MORAČA, ZETA, RIBNICA, CIJEVNA AND SITNICA, AND IS SURROUNDED BY THREE LAKES – SKADARSKO, BUKUMIRSKO AND RIKAVAČKO LAKE. 33


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ocated on a busy crossroads through which merchandise, tradesmen, couriers and travelers used to pass, Podgorica is now a place where all major international cultural and sport events take place, and owing to its amazing nightlife scene in winter it has earned a high reputation among young people.

NATURE-RICH CITY WITH DISTINCTIVE PAST The people of Podgorica live in a city with 173 hectares of green area and a Mediterranean climate. Their city is famed as one of the warmest European cities with a lot of sunny days and not many rainy days, and the Natural History Museum, whose mission is to research Montenegro’s biodiversity and present its values by virtue of exhibitions, lectures and publications, is a reflection of the fact that its people have always lived close to nature and made efforts to preserve it. The territory of Podgorica, whose name was first mentioned in 1326, has long since been a suitable area for human settlement. Four kilometers away from Podgorica, the ruins of the ancient town of Duklja dating back to the first decade of the first century BC are located, and archeological research is still conducted at the site. It is one of the most valuable testimonies of human presence

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occupying an important place in world archeology. History books recorded that Podgorica, which was named Titograd after the Second World War, was ruled by the all the great empires—apart from the Roman Empire, it was ruled by the Ottoman Empire, and finally by the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. A bridge dating back to the Roman period—the Stone Bridge on Sastavci—still sits in the heart of Podgorica and is the oldest city bridge. It is an arch bridge just a few meters in height, and young people affectionately call it Skaline (Steps). The spirit of the Orient is felt in the Stara Varoš neighborhood, the heart of Podgorica during the Ottoman rule, which blends in the capital’s urban center. The Clock Tower, a symbol of that era, was constructed by Hafis Pasha Ormanagić on the Bećir Bey Osmanagić Square.

OLD AND NEW LANDMARKS Podgorica offers quite a few places to see. Villages in the vicinity of Podgorica, Marko Miljanov Mausoleum in Kuči, Kuslev House, and the Church of the Resurrection of Christ are also worth a visit. The recent construction of a landmark with over 26-meter

high towers featuring 17 bells was launched at the beginning of the 1990s and lasted 20 years. The largest one weighs 11 tons and is the largest bell in the Balkans. The list of sacred Orthodox buildings also includes many monasteries such as the Ćelija Piperska Monastery and Dajbabe Monastery. However, Podgorica can also boast stunning both Christian and Muslim places of worship, such as the Church of the Holy Heart of Jesus, the only Roman Catholic Church in Podgorica, St. Anthony’s Church, the Old Skender Čauš Mosque, and Osmanagića Mosque whose builder, Medmed Pasha Osmanagić, was buried in the tomb in the mosque’s courtyard. Those wishing to learn about Podgorica’s history should certainly head to the Podgorica City Museum which is home to rich archaeological, cultural, ethnographic and historic collections. You are surely going to cherish the wonderful moments you spent at Kruševac Park, the most wonderful part of Podgorica, that you will visit while exploring the city, and it is the place where Contemporary Arts Center and royal castle of the Montenegrin Popović dynasty are located.


OSTROG MONASTERY

SHRINE OF SAINT BASIL, WONDERWORKER OF OSTROG

B MANASTIR

OSTROG SVETILIŠTE ČUDOTVORCA SV. VASILIJA OSTROŠKOG

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stijeni Ostroške grede, na 900 metara nadmorske visine, između Nikšića i Podgorice sagrađen je nadaleko čuveni Manastir Ostrog, veliko pravoslavno svetilište prema kojem se svakodnevno zaputi kolona hodočasnika u nadi da će pronaći spasenje. Bilo je ovo svojevremeno mjesto misionarstva Svetog Vasilija Ostroškog, osnivača manastira i monaha neumornog u molitvama i postu. Pravoslavci ga slave kao zaštitnika i iscjelitelja, ali dolaze sa svojim molitvama i molbama također pripadnici drugačijih vjerskih svjetonazora. Tijelo Sv. Vasilija počiva u Gornjem manastiru Ostrog, koji uz Donji manastir Ostrog, gdje se nalazi njegova zadužbina – Crkva Sv. Vavedenja, sačinjava manastir-

ski kompleks. U njemu su također konak, biblioteka, crkva, pomoćne zgrade i učionice za polaznike srednje teološke škole. Izgrađen većinom u 17.vijeku, Manastir Ostrog danas se ubraja u najposjećenije manastire na Balkanu.

uilt on the large rock of Ostroška greda, 900 m above the valley, on the way from Podgorica to Nikšić, widely known Ostrog Monastery is the most important religious site in Montenegro for Orthodox Christians attracting many a pilgrim seeking salvation each day. It used to be a place where Saint Basil of Ostrog, the founder of the monastery and a monk who protected his flock by his ceaseless and fervent prayer. Devout Orthodox Christians see him as the patron saint and healer, but people of other faiths also come to the monastery to offer their prayers and supplications. St. Basil’s bones are kept in the Upper Ostrog Monastery which forms the monastery complex together with the Lower Ostrog Monastery, where St. Basil’s little church—the Church of Presentation—is located. The Monastery also comprises a guesthouse, a library, a church, ancillary buildings and classrooms for students attending the theological seminary. Built in the 17th century, Ostrog Monastery is one of the most visited monasteries in the Balkans.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

A V A B A Z A L E R V TINJAK PLAŽA NA STO

PROSTRANA I UREĐENA OBALA DAJE POSEBAN ŠTIH LJEPOTI CRNE GORE, A NEKE PLAŽE KOJE JE KRASE, NAPROSTO, NE SMIJETE PROPUSTITI

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koro 300 kilometara duga je obala Crne Gore, koja ljeti predstavlja centar zabave, kulturnih, muzičkih i filmskih manifestacija, te internacionalnih takmičenja. Na obalu, koju čini preko 100 plaža, izlazi uvijek dinamična Budva, grad labirint – Kotor, grad umjetnika – Herceg Novi, grad usamljenih uvala i krasnih magnolija – Tivat, grad nepreglednih pješčanih prostranstava – Ulcinj, te kapija Crne Gore u svijet – grad Bar.

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PLAŽA OBLATNO

PLAŽA JAZ

Tivatsku rivijeru čini 17 lijepo uređenih plaža. Omladina voli komfornu plažu Oblatno zbog izvanrednih ljetnih svirki. Nalazi se na zatvorenoj teritoriji na poluotoku Luštica i prije četiri godine dobila je Plavu zastavu, međunarodno priznanje za iznimno čiste, kvalitetne i uređene plaže. Plaža je pokrivena sitnim pijeskom i stilizovana, pa se na njoj mogu vidjeti luksuzne ležaljke s baldahinima. Oblatno pripada odmaralištu Almara Beach Club.

Budvansku rivijeru čini 35 pjeskovitih plaža među kojima je i jedna od najdužih i najljepših u Crnoj Gori - plaža Jaz, smještena 2,5 km od Budve u pravcu Tivta. Zbog značajnih događaja koji su se na njoj zbivali stekla je međunarodni ugled. Svoje koncerte ovdje su održali kultni Rolling Stonesi i slavna Madonna. S pogledom na čisto plavo more, plaža je djelimično pjeskovita, a djelimično šljunkovita, dok se u njenom zaleđu nalazi auto kamp velikog kapaciteta.


PLAŽA ČANJ

GRADSKA PLAŽA

PLAŽA ŽANJIC

Kulturno-historijskim gradom Kotorom, koji je istrajao u očuvanju originalnog srednjovjekovnog izgleda s brojnim vrijednim spomenicima tadašnje arhitekture, dominira kamena obala, dok ćete nekoliko kilometara od njegovog centra u mjestima Orahovac i Ljuta pronaći i dvije pješčane plaže. Najvažnija plaža u gradu je Gradska plaža, smještena u neposrednoj blizini tamošnjeg Starog grada kojeg okružuju bedemi visoki 20 i široki 15 metara. Plaža je šljunkovita s betonskim pločama i postavljenim suncobranima i ležaljkama.

U uvali Mirište nalazi se najpoznatije hercegnovsko izletište i jedna od najljepših crnogorskih plaža – Žanjic, koja je kao stvorena za one koji žele da provedu svoj odmor u prelijepom ambijentu tišine stogodišnjih borova i maslina. S morskom vodom A kategorije zbog njene otvorenosti prema Jadranskom moru, ovdje je, osim kupanja, uživanja u degustaciji morskih plodova kao i hrani organski proizvedenoj u baštama lokalnih restorana, neponovljiv doživljaj ronjenje. Plaža ima površinu od 4.500 kvadratnih metara.

Zahvaljujući klimi, položaju i plažama koje se prostiru sve do sutomorskih strana, Bar slovi za pravo odmorište, gdje je čak svojevremeno odmarao i kralj Nikola Petrović. Barska rivijera ima skoro 20 plaža. Biserna obala u Čanju je prelijepa, šljunkovita plaža, dužine 1.200 metara, a površine 55.000 m². Pokrivena je debelim naslagama sitnog i raznobojnog pijeska izuzetne ljepote. Ponekad su talasi veoma visoki, što je pravo uživanje za one koji vole da osjete snagu mora. I zalazak sunca je na Bisernoj obali bajkovit.

VELIKA PLAŽA Ulcinjska rivijera ima obalu dugu 33 kilometra sa sitnim pijeskom sivo bijele boje u kojem nema ni najmanjih primjesa zemlje, mulja, organskih materijala, a poznat je i po svojoj ljekovitosti. Najpoznatije mjesto je skoro 13 kilometara duga i prosječno 100 metara široka Velika plaža, čija su i obala i morsko dno prekriveni sitnim pijeskom. Ovdje možete doživjeti nezaboravne zalaske sunca, kojima ne odolijevaju ni glumci, ni književnici, ni pjevači.

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S E M I T G N I L Z Z SI RED BEACHES ON A HUND

THE SPACIOUS AND WELL -MAINTAINED COAST BRINGS A SPECIAL VIBE TO THE BEAUTY OF MONTENEGRO, AND SOME OF ITS BEACHES ARE SIMPLY NOT TO BE MISSED

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he coast of Montenegro is almost 300 kilometers long, and in summertime represents the center of entertainment, cultural, musical and film-related events, as well as international competitions. The coast, which consists of over 100 beaches, extends to the ever-dynamic Budva, labyrinth city – Kotor, city of artists – Herceg Novi, city of secluded bays and beautiful magnolias – Tivat, city of vast

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sandy expanses – Ulcinj, and the gateway of Montenegro into the world – the city of Bar.

OBLATNO BEACH The Tivat Riviera consists of 17 well-maintained beaches. Youth love the comfortable Oblatno Beach because of the excellent gigs during summer. It is situated in a restricted area on the peninsula of Luštica and four years ago it was awarded the Blue Flag, an international accolade for exceptionally clean, quality water and well-maintained beaches. The beach is covered with fine sand

and it is stylized, so you can see luxurious lounge chairs with canopies there. Oblatno belongs to the Almara Beach Club.

JAZ BEACH The Budva Riviera consists of 35 sandy beaches, and it is home to one of the longest and prettiest beaches in Montenegro – Jaz Beach, located 2.5 km from Budva in the direction of Tivat. Due to the significant events that took place there it has gained an international reputation. Concerts that have been held here include those by the cult band Rolling Stones


and the ever-famous Madonna. With a view of the clear blue sea, the beach is partly sandy, partly pebbly, while behind it there is an auto- camp site of a large capacity.

CITY BEACH (GRADSKA PLAŽA) The cultural and historical city of Kotor, which has persisted in maintaining its original medieval appearance with various valuable monuments of the architecture of that time is dominated by a stone coast, while a few kilometers from its center, in places such as Orahovac and Ljuta, you will also see two sandy beaches. The most significant beach in the city is the City Beach (Gradska plaža), located right next to the Old Town (Stari grad) which is surrounded by ramparts that are 20 meters high and 15 meters wide. The beach is pebbly with concrete slabs and lounge chairs and parasols are set up there.

ŽANJIC BEACH The bay of Mirište is home to the most well-known excursion site in Herceg Novi and one of the prettiest beaches in Montenegro – Žanjic, which is made for those

who want to spend their vacation in the beautiful surroundings of the quiet of hundred-yearold pine trees and olives. With A-grade seawater due to its openness towards the Adriatic Sea, apart from swimming, enjoying the tasting of seafood, as well as organic produce from the gardens of local restaurants, the experience of diving here is unforgettable. The beach has an area of 4500 square meters.

ČANJ BEACH Due to its climate, location and beaches which stretch out all the way to the Sutomore sides, Bar is known as quite a vacation spot, where in his time even king Nikola Petrović would stay. The Bar Riviera consists of almost 20 beaches. The Pearly Coast (Biserna obala) in Čanj is a beautiful pebbly beach, 1200 meters long, with an area of 55000 m². It is covered by thick deposits of fine and multicolored sand of exceptional beauty. Sometimes the waves are very high, which is a real treat for those who like to feel the power of the sea. The sunset at the Pearly Coast is also fairytale-like.

GREAT BEACH (VELIKA PLAŽA) The Ulcinj Riviera has a coast that is 33 kilometers long with fine sand of a gray-white color where there are not even the slightest traces of soil, mud, or organic material, and it is famous for its medicinal properties. The most famous place is the almost 13 kilometer-long and approximately 100-meter-wide Great Beach (Velika plaža), where both the coast and seabed are covered by fine sand. Here you can experience unforgettable sunsets, which actors, writers and singers have not been able to resist. 39


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Ljetne čari

Tivta

NA PITANJE GDJE OVE GODINE PROVESTI ODMOR VEĆINA VEĆ ZNA ODGOVOR: “U TIVTU!” ONIMA KOJI SU JOŠ UVIJEK U DILEMI GDJE PROVESTI OVOGODIŠNJI ODMOR POKUŠAT ĆEMO DOČARATI ZAŠTO JE TIVAT PRAVI IZBOR

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mješten u Bokokotorskom zaljevu, ušuškan pod planinskim masivom poluotoka Vrmac i otoka Svetog Marka, Gospe od Milosti i Ostrva cvijeća, Tivat je grad s najviše sunčanih sati u kojem su zalasci sunca prosto nevjerovatni. Zahvaljujući luksuznim projektima poput Marine Porto Montenegro i Luštica bay, Tivat je posljednjih godina sinonim za glamur, luksuzne mega jahte, vile, golf igrališta i prestižne hotele. 40

S druge strane, Tivat je ono što je oduvijek bio – grad u kojem živi kultura. Njegove kulturne događaje karakterišu tradicija izvođenja pozorišnog teatra Purgatorije, čuvenog kola bokeške mornarice, te melodije gradske muzike, koje svojim instrumentima ne ostavljaju ravnodušnim niti jednog posjetioca. U Tivtu možete uživati u brojnim manifestacijama koje svake godine priređuje Turistička organizacija grada Tivta u saradnji s brojnim drugim udruženjima. Takve su: gastro večeri na brojnim lokacijama u sklopu programa Ljeto dobrog ukusa, muzički događaji, festivali, pučke svečanosti, sportske manifestacije, izložbe suvenira i druge manifestacije u sklopu Tivatskih ljetnih fešti. Mnoštvo je to razloga da provedete svoj odmor uz miris mora, ukus mediteranske kuhinje, primorske zvukove autentičnog ambijenta kojem ćete se iznova uvijek rado vraćati.

TIVAT JE... Grad s intimnim skrivenim plažicama, ali i onim luksuzno opremljenim lounge chilling varijantama. Grad s predivnim šetalištem – Rivom Pine, gdje se odvijaju svi važni događaji. Grad s ruralnim naseljem i izletnički najpoznatijom ambijentalnom cjelinom – Gornjom Lastvom, na samo 3 km od grada i panoramom koja oduzima dah. Grad s pješačkim stazama s pogledom na Tivatski i Kotorski zaljev, poznat po lijepim zelenim parkovskim površinama, ornitološkim rezervatom Solila i odmorištem za ptice.


Summer Charms of

Tivat

WHEN ASKED WHERE THEY WILL SPEND THIS YEAR’S VACATION, MOST PEOPLE ALREADY KNOW THE ANSWER: “IN TIVAT.” FOR THOSE WHO ARE STILL IN A DILEMMA WHERE TO GO, WE WILL TRY TO EXPLAIN WHY TIVAT IS THE RIGHT CHOICE

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ituated in the Bay of Kotor, nestled under the mountain range of Vrmac Peninsula and Saint Mark’s Island, Our Lady of Grace Island and Flower Island (Sveti Marko, Gospa od Milosti and Ostrvo cvijeća), Tivat is the town with the most hours of sunshine a year with stunning sunsets. Owing to the luxurious projects such as Porto Montenegro Marina and Luštica bay, in recent years Tivat has been a synonym for glamour, luxurious mega yachts, villas, golf courses and prestigious hotels. On the other hand, Tivat is what it has always been – a town where culture lives. Its cultural events are characterized by the following traditions: Purgatories Theater’s theater plays performances, the renowned Boka Navy’s traditional folklore dance, and urban music melodies that leave no one indifferent. In Tivat, you can enjoy a range of events organized by the Tourism Organization of the City of Tivat in cooperation with various associations. They include gastro evenings at several locations as part of the programmed called the Summer of Good Taste, music events, festivals, community festivities, sports events, souvenir exhibitions and

other events which make up a part of Tivat Summer Festivities. There are quite a few reasons for you to vacation here breathing the smell of the seashore, tasting the Mediterranean cuisine, and listening to the seashore sounds of the authentic ambiance that you will always be happy to come back to.

TIVAT IS... A town with intimate little secluded beaches, but also beaches featuring luxurious lounge chilling options. A town with a wonderful promenade – Riva Pine, the venue for all important events. A town with a rural neighborhood and the most renowned daytrip sites complex – Gornja Lastva located only 3 km away from the town center, and a town with breathtaking panoramic views of the area. A town with walking trails overlooking the Bay of Tivat and the Bay of Kotor which is famous for its beautiful green park areas, the Solila ornithology reserve, and a resting place for birds.

NA POČETKU SEZONE OD DOGAĐAJA IZDVAJAMO: 08.06.-10.06.2018. – Internacionalni ljetnji karneval s velikim koncertom 9. juna Indire Forza (Ex frontmenica Colonije); 16.06.- Žućenica festgastromanifestacija i koncert klape ISKON; 21.06.- koncert grupe Galija; 22.06. – otvaranje festivalskog pozorišnog teatra Purgatorije mjuziklom Čikago na ljetnoj pozornici Tivta.

WE HAVE PICKED OUT A FEW EVENTS FOR YOU AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SEASON: 8th–10th June 2018 – International Summer Carnival which includes a large Indira Forza (the former lead singer of Colonia) concert on 9th June; 16th June, Žućenica Fest – a gastro event and an ISKONA Capella Choir concert; 21st June, Galija concert; 22th June – the opening of the Purgatories Theater with a musical called Chicago at Tivat summer stage.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Vijekovima mlad KOTOR – Lonely Planet preporuka

GRAD KOTOR NALAZI SE U PREKRASNOM BOKOKOTORSKOM ZALJEVU NA CRNOGORSKOM PRIMORJU. KOTOR JE NE SAMO JEDNA OD NAJPOSJEĆENIJIH DESTINACIJA U CRNOJ GORI, VEĆ JE TAKOĐER DIO SVJETSKE KULTURNE BAŠTINE, A POPULARNI LONELY PLANET PREDSTAVIO GA JE KAO GRAD KOJI SE OBAVEZNO MORA POSJETITI

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otor ima bogato kulturno-historijsko naslijeđe i jedan je od najbolje sačuvanih srednjovjekovnih gradova u ovom dijelu Mediterana.

ŠTA POSJETITI U KOTORU Gradske zidine Kotorske zidine su najveća atrakcija u Kotoru za svakog posjetioca. Duge su 4,5 km, a na pojedinim mjestima visina dostiže i do 20 metara. Preko 1350 stepenika posjetilac se može popeti do tvrđave Sv. Ivan i ujedno uživati u

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spektakularnom panoramskom pogledu na zaljev.

Pomorski muzej Pomorski muzej pruža posjetiocima uvid u bogatu pomorsku historiju Boke Kotorske. Muzej posjeduje raskošnu kolekciju pomorskih artefakata, dokumenata, zbirku umjetničkih predmeta, etnografsku zbirku i kolekciju oružja.

Gradska galerija Nalazi se u Kulturnom centru "Nikola Đurković" i prati radove

regionalnih savremenih umjetnika, uključujući primijenjenu umjetnost i nove medije (video i performanse).

Katedrala Sv. Tripuna Ovo je najpoznatiji i najimpresivniji objekat u Starom gradu. Izgrađena na temeljima ranije crkve iz 9. vijeka, romanička katedrala je posvećena 1166. godine. Nekoliko puta je obnavljana, a zemljotresi su značajno izmijenili njen prvobitni izgled. Katedrala posjeduje veoma bogatu umjetničku riznicu.


OVOG LJETA U KOTORU!

Crkva Sv. Nikole Crkva Sv. Nikole nalazi se u sjevernom dijelu Starog grada, gdje predstavlja najmlađu crkvu. Gradnja započeta 1902. završena je 1909. godine. Crkva Sv. Luke je sagrađena 1195. godine, a ono što je za nju karakteristično je da ima dva oltara. Posebnu vrijednost čini ikonostas visoke umjetničke vrijednosti, rad domaćih majstora ikonografske škole Dimitrijević-Rafailović.

Perast i otok Gospa od Škrpjela Perast je zasigurno jedno od najatraktivnijih mjesta u Kotorskom zaljevu. Predivni mali barokni grad karakterističan je po mnogim stvarima i posjetiocima nudi nezaboravno iskustvo. Pored muzeja i crkava, najpoznatija lokacija u

28. - 30. juna Međunarodni festival klapa, Perast; 28. - 13. augusta Internacionalni festival Kotor Art; 1. - 12. jula Kotorski festival pozorišta za djecu;

Perastu je otok Gospe od Škrpjela koji se mora posjetiti.

Obilazak zaljeva brodom Bokokotorski zaljev je jedan od najprepoznatljivijih pejzaža na Mediteranu. Zaljev se nalazi na samom jugu Jadranskog mora i sastoji od četiri manja zaljeva koji su sa svih strana okruženi planinama. Istraživanje Bokokotorskog zaljeva brodom jedinstveno je i fantastično iskustvo.

15. - 22. jula Kotor Art / Kotor APSS; 20. - 21. jula Searock festival; 22. juli Tradicionalna fašinada u Perastu; 28. - 29. jula Internacionalna smotra mode; 1. - 4. augusta Internacionalni ljetni karneval; 18. august Bokeljska noć.

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Several Centuries Young

KOTOR – Recommended by Lonely Planet KOTOR IS A TOWN SITUATED IN THE STUNNING BAY OF KOTOR ON THE MONTENEGRIN COAST. IT IS NOT ONLY ONE OF THE MOST VISITED DESTINATIONS IN MONTENEGRO, BUT ALSO A WORLD HERITAGE SITE. LONELY PLANET, THE POPULAR TRAVEL GUIDE AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, HAS NAMED IT AS A MUST-SEE TOWN TO VISIT.

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landmarks and offering visitors unforgettable experiences. Apart from museums and churches, the most renowned landmark in Perast is Our Lady of the Rocks Islet—a must-see attraction.

Bay Exploration by Boat The Bay of Kotor is one of Mediterranean’s most distinctive destinations. It is situated at the southernmost tip of the Adriatic Sea and comprises four small bays completely surrounded by mountains. Exploring the Bay of Kotor by boat is a unique and marvelous experience.

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otor boasts a rich cultural and historic heritage and is one of the best preserved medieval towns in this part of the Mediterranean.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN THE BAY OF KOTOR City Walls Kotor City Walls is the most attractive tourist spot in Kotor. The walls are 4,5 kilometers long, and at times reach up to 20 meters in height. Visitors can climb 1350 steps to reach St. John’s Fortress and enjoy spectacular panoramic views of the bay.

Maritime Museum Maritime Museum offers visitors an insight into Boka Kotorska’s rich maritime history. It possesses an extensive collection of maritime artefacts, documents, artwork, ethnographic objects and weapons.

Town Gallery It is located in the “Nikola Đurković” Cultural Center and follows the work of contemporary artists, including the applied arts and new media art (videos and performances).

St. Triphon’s Cathedral This is the most famous and the most impressive edifice in Kotor’s Old Town. Built on the foundations of a ninth-century church, this Romanesque cathedral was consecrated in 1166. It was restored several times since earthquakes changed its original look to a significant extent. St. Tryphon’s Cathedral has in its possession a rather rich collection of artwork.

Church of St. Nicholas The Church of St. Nicholas is located in the northern part of the Old Town and was built in the early twentieth century. Its construction began in 1902 and was completed in 1909. The Church of St. Luke was built in 1195, and it is unique because it features both Catholic and Orthodox altars. Its iconostasis, a work of art made by local masters of the Dimitrijević-Rafailović school of icon painting, is particularly valuable.

Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks Islet Perast is undeniably one of the most popular spots in the Bay of Kotor. It is a wonderful little baroque town featuring a lot of

THIS SUMMER IN KOTOR: 28th – 30th June, International A Capella Choir Festival, Perast 28th – 13th August, Kotor Art International Festival 1st – 12th July, Kotor Children’s Theater Festival 15th – 22nd July, Kotor Art / Kotor APSS 20th – 21st July, Searock Festival 22nd – July, Traditional Fašinada*, Perast 28th – 29th July, International Fashion Parade 1st – 4th August: International Summer Carnival 18th August: Boka Night * A traditional annual event in which men row a convoy of decorated and roped-together boats to deposit stones on Our Lady of the Rocks Islet.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

NACIONALNI PARKOVI CRNE GORE UŽIVAJTE U LJEPOTAMA OBALE SKADARSKOG JEZERA, KAMENE PRIČE LOVĆENA, PRAŠUMSKE DIVLJINE BIOGRADSKE GORE, DUBOKIH KANJONA DURMITORA I BAJKOVITIH PROKLETIJA

NATIONAL PARKS IN MONTENEGRO ENJOY THE WONDERFUL COASTLINE OF SKADAR LAKE, STONY STORIES OF LOVĆEN, THE PRIMEVAL WILDERNESS OF MT. BIOGRAD, DEEP CANYONS OF MT. DURMITOR AND MAGICAL MT. PROKLETIJE

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et nacionalnih parkova, koji čine 8% teritorije Crne Gore, simbolizuju nevjerovatnu raznolikost i kontraste srca Mediterana. Dio ponude nacionalnih parkova čini izuzetno bogatstvo biodiverziteta, pješačenje i vožnja bicikala kroz predjele izvanrednih ljepota, kampovanje, krstarenje najvećim balkanskim jezerom, posmatranje ptica, šetnja kroz jednu od posljednjih evropskih prašuma, jedinstveni pejzažni doživljaji s vidikovaca, rafting kroz najdublji kanjon Evrope, osvajanje najviših vrhova Dinarida, vožnja drvenim čamcima po ledničkim jezerima, kajakarenje, avanturistički parkovi na Durmitoru i Lovćenu, zip-lajn, sportski ribolov, stare crkve i manastiri, stećci...

Nacionalni park ''Biogradska gora'' Biogradsko jezero je najveće i najpoznatije ledničko jezero na području ovog parka. Centar zbivanja na visini od 1.094 metra, u srcu prašume, poznato je izletište s uređenim površinama, parkingom, restoranom, bungalovima, osvijetljenim šetačkim stazama i kamping prostorom. Ljeti važi za nezaobilaznu destinaciju velikom broju turista, posebno tranzitnih koji se na putu prema svom morskom odredištu obavezno svraćaju tražeći skrovište od visokih temperatura.

Nacionalni park ''Durmitor''

Cetinja cestom dugom oko 20 km, a potom savladavanjem 461 stepenika do vrha planine.

Nalazi se na pet crnogorskih općina, ali je sjedište parka grad Žabljak, ujedno najveći zimski centar u Crnoj Gori s infrastrukturom za zimske sportove i uslužne djelatnosti u oblasti turizma i planinarstva. Durmitor je dom 18 ledničkih jezera na preko 1.500 metara nadmorske visine. Tamošnje stanovništvo ih naziva gorskim očima, a najljepše je Crno jezero. Top atrakcija parka je kanjon rijeke Tare.

Nacionalni park ''Prokletije''

Nacionalni park ''Lovćen'' Obuhvatajući centralni i najviši dio istoimene planine na površini od 6.400 hektara, Lovćen je čuven po vidikovcima s kojih se pogled pruža na sve strane - ka moru, Skadarskom jezeru ili visokom gorju na sjeveru. Planina Lovćen je inače simbol slobode za Crnogorce, koji ga doživljavaju poput svetog oltara. Jer, ovdje, na Jezerskom vrhu, podignut je impozantni mauzolej Petru II Petroviću Njegošu, duhovnom i svjetovnom vladaru Crne Gore, koji je bio cijenjen kao pjesnik i filozof. Na prostoru bivše Jugoslavije i danas se spominje kao tvorac čuvenog epa i drame Gorskog vijenca. Dolazak do njegovog mauzoleja vrhunac je posjete nacionalnom parku. Stiže se iz

Ovdje su zime veoma oštre i duge, a ljeta svježa i kratka. Parkom se nadvijaju vrhovi preko 2.000 mnv, struji voda glacijalnih jezera, veći i manji vodotoci, rijeke, vrela i izvori pitke i mineralne vode. Prokletije su najmlađi nacionalni park u Crnoj Gori, čiji strmi vrhovi predstavljaju veliki izazov i iskusnim planinarima. Ne čudi nimalo što Prokletije ljudi nazivaju i Alpama Crne Gore. Pripadaju mu također dva parka prirode: Volušica i jezero Hrid.

Nacionalni park ''Skadarsko jezero'' Brojne civilizacije koje su pohodile ovo područje ostavile su tragove koji daju doprinos kulturno-historijskom mozaiku skadarskog bazena. Otoke Skadarskog jezera uveličava veliki broj srednjovjekovnih utvrđenja, crkava i manastira, dok se na obali jezera ističu dva gradića - Virpazar i Rijeka Crnojevića, prepoznatljivi po restoranima u kojima se služe tradicionalni specijaliteti. Na jezeru se nalaze mnoge atraktivne plaže koje svojim izgledom nimalo ne zaostaju za onim na primorju. 47


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

F

ive national parks, covering 8% of the territory of Montenegro, symbolize extraordinary diversity and contrasts of the heart of the Mediterranean. Some of their main attractions are exceptional biological diversity, hiking and cycling tours through gorgeous landscapes, camping areas, boat trips on the largest lake in the Balkans, bird watching, walking tours in one of the last European primeval forests, unique scenic views from high lookout points, rafting through the deepest European canyon, scaling the highest peaks of the Dinaric Alps, wooden boat trips on glacial lakes, kayaking, adventure parks situated in Mt. Durmitor and Mt. Lovćen, zip lines, sport fishing, old churches and monasteries, medieval tombstones…

“Mountain Biograd” National Park Biograd Lake is the largest and most renowned glacial lake in this park. 48

The central part of the park, situated at an altitude of 1,094 meters, in the heart of a primeval forest, is the renowned picnic site with wellkept green areas, a parking area, a restaurant, bungalows, lighted paths and a camping area. In summer, it is the number one place to visit for many tourists particularly for those in transit who are seeking shelter from the heat and stop by the park on their way to their destinations on the coast.

“Durmitor” National Park It covers an area of five Montenegrin municipalities, but its center is the town of Žabljak, the largest winter resort in Montenegro offering winter sport facilities and catering services in the field of tourism and mountaineering. Durmitor is home to 18 glacial lakes at an altitude of more than 1,500 meters above sea level. The locals call them the eyes of the mountain, but the most stunning one is the


“Prokletije” National Park

Black Lake. A top tourist attraction is the Tara River canyon.

“Lovćen” National Park Covering the central and highest part of a mountain of the same name, encompassing 6,400 hectares, Lovćen is famed for a number of look out points offering allaround views across the surrounding area: the sea, Skadar Lake or high mountains in the north. Mount Lovćen is the symbol of Montenegrins freedom, and Montenegrins think of it as the holy altar. It is here, at the top of Jezerski vrh, that the glorious Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, spiritual and secular ruler of Montenegro and a renowned poet and philosopher, was built. Even today, people in the former Yugoslavia remember him as the author of the famous epic poem and drama called The Mountain Wreath. Visiting his mausoleum is the national park’s star attraction. It is accessible via a 20-kilometer road from Cetinje, and then there are 461 steps to take up to the entry at the top of the mountain.

The winters here are very severe and long, and the summers are chilly and short. The park is surrounded by peaks higher than 2,000 meters above sea level, and glacial lakes, smaller and bigger waterways, rivers, springs and drinkable and mineral water springs flow through it. “Prokletije” National Park is the most recent national park to have been established in Montenegro and its steep summits are quite challenging even for experienced mountain climbers. Mt. Prokletije is also known as the Montenegrin Alps. Two nature parks are also a part of the park: Volušica and Hrid Lake.

“Skadar Lake” National Park Many civilizations that had passed through this area have left behind their traces contributing in this way to the cultural and historic mosaic of the Skadar basin. Skadar Lake islands are dotted by many medieval fortifications, churches and monasteries, while two tiny towns on the lake’s shore, Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića, are recognizable due to the restaurants serving traditional specialties. There are many attractive beaches on the shore and in appearance they do not differ from those on the coast at all.

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INTERVJU TEMA BROJA / INTERVIEW / COVER STORY

Odmor visoko u planini

ETNO SELA CRNE GORE MJESTA SU GDJE ĆETE DOŽIVJETI DUH DAVNO PROHUJALIH VREMENA, JESTI ZDRAVU HRANU I NAPUNITI BATERIJE ZA NOVE IZAZOVE

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an, noćenje ili višednevni boravak u nekom od brojnih etno sela nudi najviše onog drugačijeg. Više je razloga zašto je to tako. Crnogorska etno sela nalaze se na posebnim mjestima, obično na nadmorskoj visini od oko hiljadu metara, ili većoj, okružena prirodnim atrakcijama i napravljena od drveta i kamena. U njihovoj neposrednoj blizini pretežno su izgrađene planinarske i biciklističke staze, te teku rijeke ili jezera za krstarenje i rafting. Ovakva etno sela pružaju doživljaj 50

netaknute prirode, slike drevnog načina života, harmoniju s prirodom i osjećaj slobode.

TOP ETNO SELA Magične ekološke sredine nude domaću kuhinju, lokalne specijalitete, ali i pomoć pri upoznavanju okoline. Na top listi najljepših etno sela Crne Gore nalaze se: Izlazak, Milogora u Pivi, Nevidio, Jatak u Pošćenju, Vuko-

vić kod Bijelog Polja, Komnenovo kod Plavskog jezera, Montenegro u Brezni, te eko katuni Vranjak na Bjelasici i Štavna na Komovima. Ako vas nanese put, mada je izvjesnije da će to biti uska staza, do bajkovitih kućica koje mame tišinom, ne oklijevajte, svratite. Domaćini će se radovati, a vi ćete imati priliku da vidite kako su stočari živjeli vijekovima ljeti, u kolibama visoko u planini.


Vacation High up in the Mountains

ETHNO VILLAGES IN MONTENEGRO ARE PLACES WHERE YOU CAN FEEL THE DISTANT SPIRIT OF TIMES LONG PAST, EAT HEALTHY FOOD AND RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES FOR NEW CHALLENGES THAT LIE AHEAD

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day trip to, an overnight or multi-day stay in one of the many ethno villages offers plenty of things to do which distinguishes them from other similar villages. There are several reasons why this is true. Montenegrin ethno villages are situated in places which are really special, usually on a mountain slope at an altitude of one thousand meters or higher, they are surrounded by natural attractions and made of wood or rock. In their close proximity, hiking and biking trails have been built, and rivers and lakes close by are suitable for rafting or boat tour lovers. In these ethno villages you can enjoy the abundance of pristine natural landscapes and traditional features of ancient lifestyles, and feel in harmony with nature and free.

BEST ETHNO VILLAGES Magical ecological environments offer visitors local cuisine, local specialties, and assistance in exploring the nearby countryside. These are the most beautiful ethno villages in Montenegro: Izlazak, Milogora in Piva, Nevidio, Jatak in Pošćenje, Vuković near Bijelo Polje, Komnenovo close to Plavsko Lake, Montenegro in Brezna, and eco shepherd huts called Vranjak on Mt. Bjelasica and Štavna on Mt. Komovi. If you happen to take the road to the fairy-like little huts that seem so peaceful, although it is more likely that it will be a narrow path leading up to them, do not hesitate, pull over. The hosts will be happy to see

you, and you will have an opportunity to see how cattle breeders have been living in the summer months for centuries, up there, in huts high up in the mountains.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

ČUDESNI KANJON NEVIDIO UŽIVAJTE U ADRENALINSKIM SKOKOVIMA, PLIVANJU, RONJENJU I PENJANJU Ljepota tjesnaca, kaskada, pjenušavih bukova učinila je kanjon Nevidio draguljem prirode, pa ne čudi što su ga stanovnici ovog kraja nazivali Neviđbog. Dio je Male Komarnice, rijeke koja izvire u podnožju južnog dijela Durmitora. Čudno uklesani ulaz nalazi se u selu Komarnica, 10 km od Šavnika. Rijeka odjednom nestaje u stijenama. Prolaženje traje 3-4 sata tokom kojih ćete uživati u adrenalinskim skokovima, plivanju, ronjenju i penjanju. Veći dio kanjona dugog oko 1700 metara je u vječitoj sijenci, dok na pojedinim mjestima prolaz nije širi od jednog metra. Iako ne zahtijeva posebnu fizičku spremnost, prolazi se obavezno s vodičem i u adekvatnoj opremi. Čak i ako nije vaš dan za kanjoning, uživat ćete u dolini Komarnice. Selo Pošćenje s dva lednička jezera, periodični vodopad Skakavica, durmitorska svježina i srdačni domaćini prijaju. Uvijek jako i uvijek drugačije.

WONDROUS NEVIDIO CANYON ENJOY ADRENALINE-RUSH JUMPS, SWIMMING, DIVING AND CLIMBING The stunning beauty of narrow passages, cascades and sparkling waterfalls has made the Nevidio Canyon a natural gem so it is no wonder that the locals used to call it Neviđbog (which means hidden from God’s eyes). It is a part of the Mala Komarica River which springs at the bottom of the south part of Mount Durmitor. Oddly carved entrance to the canyon is located in Komarnica Village, 10 km away 5252

from Šavnik. The river suddenly disappears in the rocks. Passing through the canyon takes 3 to 4 hours but allows you to enjoy the adrenaline-rush jumps, swimming, diving and climbing. A large section of the 1,700 meter long canyon is always in shadow, while in some places the canyon cliffs narrow up to one meter. Although it does not require a particular standard of physical fitness, the

passage through the canyon is not advised without the assistance of a guide and special equipment. Even if you do not feel like canyoning, you will enjoy in Komarnica Valley. Pošćenje Village with two glacial lakes, a periodical waterfall called Skakavica, the fresh air of Mount Durmitor and cordial hosts are all welcoming. Always very welcoming and always different.


RAFTING AVANTURA

NA TARI

TARA RIVER WHITE WATER

RAFTING ADVENTURE

EXPERIENCE ULTIMATE ADVENTURES IN THE DEEPEST EUROPEAN CANYON!

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he Tara River, or the tear of Europe as it is also called, springs in the mountain ranges of northern Montenegro and is 156 km long. Highly opulent vegetation occupies its banks and the sides of the canyon making the landscape around it really special and you can get to see it if you go on a calm water raft trip or a white water raft trip almost down the entire course of the river.

DOŽIVITE PUTOVANJE NAJDUBLJIM EVROPSKIM KANJONOM!

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uza Evrope, kako još nazivaju rijeku Taru, izvire u planinskom masivu na sjeveru Crne Gore i teče dužinom od 156 km. Na njenim obalama i stranama kanjona raste bujna vegetacija dajući posebnu čar okolnom pejzažu koji se može doživjeti spuštanjem splavom i tokom raftinga niz skoro cijeli tok rijeke. Tara se ubraja u vrhunske svjetske rafting rijeke. Kao dio NP "Durmitor" uvrštena je na spisak svjetske kulturne i prirodne baštine još 1980. godine. Od maja do oktobra traju rafting avanture i ovisno o vašim željama mogu biti jednodnevne, dvodnevne ili višednevne u dužini od 15 do 85 kilometara. Ostanete li duže, dok ste živi pamtit ćete rađanje jutra u kanjonu i noći u kojima vam svjetlost daju zvijezde kroz usku prugu kanjona i rojevi svitaca.

Kraća varijanta, s 21 brzakom tokom 18 kilometara vožnje od Brštanovice do Šćepan polja, gdje se Tara spaja s Pivom, traje nekoliko sati. No, duža vožnja obećava više od 50 brzaka. Tada se smjenjuju periodi adrenalina i lagane plovidbe pogodne za uživanje u vodopadima pritoka, mostovima, stijenama, šumama i malim plažama.

The Tara River is deemed to be a world-class white water rafting river. As part of the “Durmitor” National Park, it was inscribed on the List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage in 1980. White water rafting adventures take place from May through October, and you can opt for a one-day, two-day or multiple-day adventures varying in length from 15 to 85 kilometers. If you stay longer, you will remember the sun rising in the canyon in the morning and the nights when stars cast light on you through the canyon’s narrow precipice or the eerie glow of swarming fireflies for the rest of your life. The shorter white water rafting trip, consisting of 21 rapids along an 18-kilometer route from Brštanovica to Šćepan polje, where the Tara River meets the Piva River, lasts for a few hours. However, the longer white water rafting trip includes more than 50 rapids. Its fast-paced adrenaline rush sections and easy-flow sections that allow you to enjoy the waterfalls on the river’s tributaries, bridges, cliffs, forests and small beaches take turns during the longer trip. 53


TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Divlja ljepota Lipske pećine Atraktivna Lipska pećina, spomenik prirode, nalazi se 5 km od Cetinja, u selu Lipa Dobrska. U sistemu od 2,5 km prolaza, dvorana i galerija, uživat ćete u jedinstvenim oblicima stalagmita i stalaktita, te doživljaju bezvremenske pećinske tame i tišine. Autentičnosti pećine doprinose podzemni vodotoci, jezera, izvori i njena istinska, divlja ljepota, koja očarava posjetioce.

ŠETNJA HILJADAMA GODINA STARIM HODNICIMA U žiži svojih interesa imale su je uvijek i velike ličnosti crnogorske historije, poput Petra II Petrovića

Njegoša i kralja Nikole I, koji je u posjetu pećini dovodio goste Crne Gore, zvaničnike iz inostranstva. Nastavljajući njihovu tradiciju danas se kroz hiljadama godina stare podzemne hodnike šetaju nasljednici domovine i turisti koji dolaze iz raznih krajeva svijeta. Na pješačke ture polazi se turističkim vozićem i u pratnji vodiča. Najkraća tura osvijetljenom stazom traje oko 45 minuta, a sat i po avantura koja vodi i u neosvijetljeni dio - prilagođena je također djeci. Temperatura u pećini uvijek je između 8 i 12 stepeni, što je pravo osvježenje za vruće ljetne dane.

Wild Beauty of Lipa Cave Attractive Lipa Cave, a natural monument, is situated 5 km from Cetinje, in Lipa Dobrska village. You will have a chance to enjoy a 2,5 kilometer long system of cave passageways, chambers and galleries, see the unique shapes of stalactites and stalagmites, and get a sense of what it feels like to be in timeless cave darkness and silence. Underground water currents, lakes and springs add to the authenticity of the cave and so does its true, wild beauty which takes any visitor’s breath away.

WALK ALONG SEVERALTHOUSAND-YEAROLD PASSAGEWAYS It has always been the center of interest for important figures in Montenegrin history, such as Petar II Petrović Njegoš and King Nikola

5454

I who would bring guests, officials from foreign countries visiting Montenegro, to the cave. Continuing their tradition, descendants of their homeland and tourists coming to the country from all over the world walk along several-thousand-year-old underground cave passageways. Guided walking tours start with a train ride from the car park down to the entrance of the cave. The shortest tour with lighting through cave paths takes about 45 minutes to complete, and the adventure tour leading you to the parts of the cave where there is no lighting, which is also suitable for children, takes an hour and a half. The temperature in the cave is between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius, which is really refreshing on warm summer days.


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INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

VESNA BEGANOVIĆ, OSNIVAČICA I DIREKTORICA AGENCIJE VIA MEDIA

ŽENA IZ

BUDUĆNOSTI VESNA VEĆ GODINAMA ODLIČNO IGRA UTAKMICE NA MARKETINŠKOM TRŽIŠTU I UVIJEK JE SPREMNA ZA VELIKE PODVIGE Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO, Fotografije: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

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jeni roditelji su željeli da postane doktorica, no ona je upisala arhitekturu i historiju umjetnosti. Ipak, tim putem nije koračala do kraja, nego je postala respektabilan stručnjak za marketing. "Kako sam po prirodi oduvijek bila nestašna i neposlušna, nisam slijedila savjet roditelja koji smatraju da će doktori uvijek biti cijenjeni i imati posla. Oni ni danas u potpunosti ne razumiju čime se bavim, znaju samo da 'pravim reklame' (smijeh). Iako je arhitektura bila moj izbor i ljubav, splet okolnosti i nesretnih dešavanja prekinuo je taj put. Marketing je slučajnost u mojoj karijeri zbog kojeg se već 25 godina razdragano budim i jurim na posao", govori Vesna Beganović na početku intervjua za Furaj.ba.

Stvaralački duh Zajedno sa suprugom Berinom Tuzlićem izgradili ste jednu od najpoznatijih marketinških agencija u BiH. Zahvaljujući kakvoj strategiji je Via Media izborila svoj položaj na tržištu? - Dovoljno smo ludi pojedinačno, a zajedno smo spoj racionalnog i kreativnog, snažnih karaktera, pozitivnog i stvaralačkog duha. Zaista uživamo u onome što smo izgradili, ali ne u poziciji ili statusu, već u rezultatima koji su plod našeg predanog rada. Za nas uspjeh nije trajna kategorija, u stalnom smo procesu stvaranja i traganja za inovativnim i progresivnim idejama, koje će pomoći da se naš tim razvija te da agencija raste. Berin je iznimno kreativna osoba koja me inspiriše i podržava, čak i kada niko drugi ne razumije zašto sam donijela neku odluku ili zašto biram izazovnu strategiju. Mi ne slijedimo druge isprobane modele, fokusirani smo na ono što nas ispunjava, gdje možemo stalno da učimo i da se razvijamo. Biramo

PUT DO USPJEHA "Za uspjeh su važni znanje, dosljednost i inovativnost. Također, svjesnost vlastitih ograničenja, prepoznavanje prilika i izbor kvalitetnog tima s kojim možete dijeliti viziju i doseći zacrtane ciljeve."

klijente s kojima razvijamo strateško partnerstvo i koji nam vjeruju da zajedno možemo postići sjajne rezultate. Via Media je orijentisana na efikasnu kreativnost koja donosi rezultate. Prvog maja Via Media je proslavila godinu dana rada u Dubaiju. Šta Vas je ponukalo na ovaj poslovni iskorak, te šta ste time dobili? - Sada sa sigurnošću mogu reći da je izlazak na UAE tržište dobra strateška odluka. Naš office u Dubaiju je inspirativan i klijenti nam rado dolaze, jer osim što ih ugostimo u moderno opremljenom enterijeru, mogu osjetiti drugačiji duh i energiju. Via Media Dubai je UAE kompanija, kojoj su otvorene mogućnosti dinamičnog, progresivnog tržišta stimulativnog za razvoj. Pristup znanju, klijentima i inovacijama omogućava nam da smo uvijek na izvoru novih tehnoloških dostignuća, trendova, kao i najboljih događaja svjetskog fokusa. Nedavno sam tako učestvovala na Annual Investment Meetingu 2018, najvećem investicionom forumu, na kojem smo razgovarali s investitorima o ulaganju u BiH u oblasti turizma, IT sektora i proizvodnje organske hrane. Kako se nosite s tamošnjom konkurencijom, te ko su za sada Vaši najveći klijenti? - Na tržištu Ujedinjenih Arapskih Emirata prisutni su samo najbolji i najjači igrači s najinovativnijim pristupom i sjajnim idejama. Za 57


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

naš tim je to pravo igralište, koje vas stalno tjera i motiviše da budete izvrsni kako biste uopće mogli da ugrabite dio kolača. Pozicioniramo se s evropskim znanjem, bogatim iskustvom kao "creativity technology behavior agency". U kratkom periodu ostvarili smo saradnju s klijentima koji cijene iskustvo i znanje, ali gdje su ideje i kreativnost na prvom mjestu. Postali smo partner Dubai Lynxa, najvećeg festivala kreativnosti na Bliskom istoku, gdje smo predstavili inovativne metode mjerenja iz domena potrošačke psihologije u kreiranju kreativnih kampanja. Do 2020. godine očekujemo da ćemo imati snažnu agenciju koja može pružiti podršku i spremno dočekati EXPO 2020. godine. Također, trenutno radimo nekoliko kampanja od kojih mogu izdvojiti Dubai Properties, Dubai London Clinic, AUSE, najveći R&D projekat, a nedavno smo počeli saradnju s brandovima Juicy, Jana i Podravka, koji su prisutni u GCC regionu gdje će, nadam se, izgraditi jake brendove.

nedostaje Via Media tim i energija koju imamo u Sarajevu. Iako smo svakodnevno u komunikaciji, fizička prisutnost je bitna kada slavimo naš uspjeh. Svjesna sam da je naš tim spreman za svjetske utakmice, pa bih samo to ubrzala. Osim bh. tima, nedostaje mi oštri jutarnji zrak i prelijepa priroda koju imamo.

Šta je Vaš najveći poslovni cilj u Dubaiju?

Rođeni ste u Bihaću. Kako je izgledalo Vaše djetinjstvo na Uni?

- Raditi na razvojnom projektu Dubai10X za 2030., te biti aktivni sudionici projekta Smart Dubai, dobiti nagrade na UAE tržištu, ali i dovesti investitore koji će ulagati u Bosnu i Hercegovinu.

- Nestvarno, kao u bajci, djeca tako više ne žive. Cjelodnevni boravak vani, penjanje po drveću, ozlijeđena koljena, nestašluci i dječije vragolije, sankanje dok vam se odjeća ne zaledi. Posebno važna uloga u odgoju djece u Bihaću je posvećenost ekologiji. Djeca se od malena uče da čuvaju Unu i pravi su eko policajci. Bihać je grad koji ima i dječijeg eko gradonačelnika. Una je dio našeg identiteta, tako sam i ja odrasla

Nedostaje li Vam nešto iz Sarajeva? - Trenutno mjesec dana boravim u Dubaiju, mjesec dana u Sarajevu. Tako želim da živim. Najviše mi

Koji poslovni ljudi su na društvenim mrežama must-follow? - U Ujedinjenim Arapskim Emiratima je poslovna komunikacija uobičajena na kanalima komunikacije kao što su WhatsApp, LinkedIn i Instagram. Nije nužno pratiti ljude koji su globalno poznati, već ljude koji su bitni za vaša interesovanja, motivišu vas i mogu odigrati značajnu ulogu u vašem razvoju. Danas imam priliku da direktno komuniciram s budućim nasljednikom u Dubaiju i nekoliko članova kraljevske porodice, a upravo sam kontakt ostvarila putem društvenih mreža.

Stroga i predana majka

kao borac za zaštitu rijeka i prirodnog okruženja. Koje su prednosti prijašnjih u odnosu na sadašnja vremena? - Ne živim u prošlosti i ne osvrćem se na vrijeme koje je prošlo. Za sebe kažem da sam osoba iz budućnosti. Živim po pravilu: sve što je bilo prije pola sata, za mene je prošlost. Moramo samo učiti iz grešaka i pomoći drugima da ih ne naprave. Ljudi se moraju truditi da uče, tako će od vremena u kojem žive uzeti maksimum za sebe i moći budućnost učiniti još boljom. Majka ste troje djece. Jeste li strog roditelj? - Jesam, priznajem. U njihovom odrastanju nametala sam pravila: red, rad i disciplina. Pored toga imali su potpunu slobodu izbora zanimanja, hobija, okruženja. Sa 16 godina su počeli samostalan život, sami su se morali brinuti o mjesečnom budžetu koji imaju na raspolaganju. Proveli su više godina u inostranstvu, na dva kontinenta. Trudila sam se da sve što dobiju, moraju i da zasluže. Izrasli su u zadovoljne, samostalne i stabilne osobe koje su izabrale svoje potpuno različite puteve, ali se međusobno dobro razumiju i podržavaju. Pored njih brinemo se o još jednom dječaku, koji je sada punoljetan i sretni smo što smo bili motivator u njegovom životu da se izgradi u zdravu ličnost. Šta biste za njih uvijek poželjeli? - Da vjeruju da je sve moguće i rade ono što vole.

MOJ ŽIVOT U DUBAIJU "Živim dinamično, baš kako mi i odgovara. Otvorenost i razmjena znanja su normalna poslovna kultura. Svaki dan imate toliko edukativnih događaja, organizovanih networking evenata, kao i priliku za upoznavanje svjetskih stručnjaka, te prezentaciju nevjerovatnih projekata. U zemlji živi mnogo stranaca, multikulturalnost je pravo bogatstvo. Kada ste na sastanku, za jednim stolom nalaze se ljudi sa svih kontinenata. Moja funkcija u Via Media Dubai je COH, odnosno šef službe za sreću. Zadužena sam za okupljanje ljudi koji razmišljaju van standardnih okvira, koji su inventivni i inovativni.

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VESNA BEGANOVIĆ, FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF VIA MEDIA AGENCY

A WOMAN FROM

ROAD TO SUCCESS "Knowledge, consistency and innovation are important for success. Being aware of your own limitations, recognizing opportunities and selecting a quality team who you can share a vision with and accomplish the set goals with are also important factors for success."

THE FUTURE H

er parents wanted her to become a doctor, but she enrolled in architecture and history of art. However, that is not the road she took to the end, rather becoming a respectable marketing expert. "As by nature I've always been naughty and disobedient, I didn't follow my parents' advice, as they are of the opinion that doctors will always be respected and have a lot of work. Even today they don't entirely understand what it is that I do, they just know that I 'make advertisements' (laughs). Even though architecture was my choice and love, a series of circumstances and unfortunate events interrupted that path. Marketing is a coincidence in my career that has had me waking up happily and rushing to work for 25 years", says Vesna Beganović in the beginning of her interview for Furaj.ba.

Creative spirit You have built one of the most well-known marketing agencies in B&H with your husband Berin Tuzlić. Which strategy did you use for Via Media to find its place on the market?

VESNA HAS BEEN AN EXCELLENT PLAYER IN THE MARKETING FIELD FOR YEARS AND IS ALWAYS READY FOR GREAT CHALLENGES Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO , Photos: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

- We're equally crazy individually, and together we are a combination of rational and creative, strong personalities, of positive and creative spirit. We really enjoy what we've built, not in position 59


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

or status, but in results which are the fruits of our dedicated labor. For us, success is not a permanent category, we're in a constant process of creation and searching for innovative and progressive ideas, which will help our team develop and the agency grow. Berin is a very creative person who inspires me and supports me, even when no one else understands why I've made some decision or why I'm choosing the challenging strategy. We don't follow other tried-out models, we're focused on what fulfills us, where we can constantly learn and develop. We choose clients who we can develop a strategic partnership with and who trust that we can achieve great results together. Via Media is oriented towards efficient creativity which gives results. On May 1, Via Media celebrated its first anniversary of work in Dubai. What prompted you to take this step, and what did you gain from it? 60

- Now I can say with certainty that entering the UAE market was a good strategic decision. Our office in Dubai is inspirational and clients are happy to come to us, because apart from welcoming them to a modernly furnished interior, they can feel a different spirit and energy. Via Media Dubai is a UAE company, which has the opportunities of a dynamic, progressive market that stimulates development. Access to knowledge, clients and innovations enables us to always be at the source of new technological innovations, trends, as well as the best events that are in world focus. I recently participated at the Annual Investment Meeting 2018, the biggest investment forum, where we talked to investors about investing in B&H in the fields of tourism, IT and organic food production. How do you deal with the competition over there, and who are currently your biggest clients?

- In the UAE market, only the best and strongest players with the most innovative approach and great ideas are present. It's a real playing field for our team, which constantly pushes and motivates you to be exceptional to even be able to grab a piece of the cake. We position ourselves with European know-how, rich experience as a "creativity technology behavior agency". In a short period, we established cooperation with clients who value experience and knowledge, but where ideas and creativity come first. We partnered up with Dubai Lynx, the biggest festival of creativity in the Middle East, where we presented innovative methods of surveying in the domain of consumer psychology in making creative campaigns. By 2020, we expect to have a strong agency which can offer support and readily greet EXPO in 2020. In addition, we're currently working on a few campaigns where I can single out Dubai Properties, Dubai London Clinic, AUSE, the biggest


R&D project, and we recently started working with brands such as Juicy, Jana and Podravka, who are present in the GCC region where, I hope, they will build strong brands. What is your greatest business goal in Dubai? - To work on development project Dubai10X for 2030, and to be active members of the Smart Dubai project, to win awards in the UAE market, but also to bring investors who will invest in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Do you miss anything from Sarajevo? - Currently I spend one month in Dubai, and one month in Sarajevo. That's how I want to live. I miss the Via Media team and the energy that we have in Sarajevo the most. Even though we communicate every day, physical presence is important when we're celebrating our success. I'm aware that our team is ready for world „games“, so I'd just like to make that happen faster. Apart from the B&H team, I miss the cool morning air and the beautiful nature that we have. Which business people are a must-follow on social media? - In the United Arab Emirates, business communication is standard on communication channels such as WhatsApp, LinkedIn and Instagram. It's not necessary to follow people who are globally famous, but people who are significant for our interests, who motivate us and can play an important role in our development. Today, I have the opportunity to communicate directly with the future heir in Dubai and some members of the royal family, and I made contact via social networks.

A strong and dedicated mother You were born in Bihać. What was your childhood on the Una River like? - Unreal, like a fairy tale, children don't live like that anymore. Spending all day outsides, climbing trees, torn knees, mischief and children's games, sledding until your clothes would freeze. A very important part of raising children in Bihać is the dedication to ecology. Children are taught from a small age to guard the Una River and they're real „eco cops“. Bihać is a city which has a child „eco mayor“. Una is part of our identity, so I also grew up as a fighter for the protection of rivers and the environment.

into satisfied, independent and stable people who chose completely different paths, but who understand each other well and support each other. Apart from them, we take care of another boy, who is now of legal age and we're happy that we were motivators in his life so that he became a healthy individual. What do you always want for them? - To believe that everything is possible and to do what they love.

What are the advantages of past times compared to today? - I don't live in the past and I don't look back on times that have passed. I like to call myself a person from the future. I live by the rule: everything that happened half an hour ago is the past. We just have to learn from mistakes and help others not make them. People have to make an effort to learn, that's how they can take the maximum for themselves in the time they live in and be able to make the future even better. You have three children. Are you a strict parent? - Yes, I admit it. While they were growing up I imposed rules: order, work and discipline. Apart from that, they had complete freedom of choice of interests, hobbies, surroundings. At 16, they started a life of independence, they had to take care of their own monthly budget that they have at their disposal. They spent a number of years abroad, on two continents. I made an effort so that everything they got, they had to deserve. They grew

MY LIFE IN DUBAI "I have a dynamic life, just the way it suits me. Openness and knowledge exchange are a normal business culture. Each day there are so many educational happenings, organized networking evens, as well as the opportunity to meet world experts, and presentations of amazing projects. A lot of foreigners live in this country, multiculturalism is a real treasure. When you're at a meeting, there are people from all continents at one table. My role at Via Media Dubai is COH, i.e. Chief Officer of Happiness. I'm in charge of gathering people who think outside the box, who are inventive and innovative.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

MAGIČNE RAMAZANSKE

' c o n i u Sarajevu

VRIJEME KADA OŽIVI TRADICIJA SPAJAJUĆI SVE LJUDE DOBROG SRCA

Piše: Elma ZEĆO

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

N

ebom čija se plava boja lagano miješa s notama večeri polete jata ptica kada se začuje top s bedema Žute tabije u starom sarajevskom naselju Vratniku. Eho odjeka tada se razlije po cijelom gradu, a u isto vrijeme pale se kandilje na svim džamijama dajući posebno svjetlo gradu. Ovim običajem označava se prekid posta, koji za muslimane počinje pojavom zore i traje do zalaska sunca. Tokom tog perioda vjernici su dužni da se uzdržavaju od jela, pića, loših misli, bilo kakvih tjelesnih prohtjeva, a njihov post je potpun kada otvore svoja srca za milost i saosjećanje s ljudima kojima je pažnja potrebna.

ATRAKCIJA SARAJEVSKOG TOPA No, neovisno o tome da li poste ili ne, u čaroliji koju donosi sa sobom

sveti mjesec uživaju svi. Zato se na Žutoj tabiji okupljaju kako postači tako i brojni turisti koji oglašavanje topa posmatraju kao veliku atrakciju. Ovo mjesto, smatraju mnogi, ima nezamjenjivu atmosferu za iftar. Uz sve to, nudi im se i fantastičan pogled na grad koji lagano tone u noć. Oko srca je toplo i kod ukućana koji sjedaju za zajedničku sofru u svojim domovima. Svako prije toga obavi svoju zadaću. Neko kuha, neko rasprema, neko servira, a neko stoji u dugim redovima ispred popularnih sarajevskih pekara kako bi kući donio vruće somune bez kojih je iftar skoro nezamisliv. Ipak, u jednom dijelu Sarajeva posebno je živo. A i nezaboravno. To je Baščaršija. Ako šetate prije zalaska sunca, primijetit ćete radnike brojnih ugostiteljskih objekata kako užurbano uređuju svoje ljetne

bašte i postavljaju stolove na kojima će se obavezno naći, između ostalog, hurme, jer je, također, jedan od običaja mnogih muslimana da post prekinu upravo njima. Ako niste sto rezervisali, pred vama će biti težak zadatak pronalska slobodnog mjesta za večeru. Svugdje je gužva. Serviraju se obično jela predviđena ramazanskim menijem, pa je to prilika i za mnoge goste grada da probaju tradicionalna jela poput tope, sarajevskog sahana, hadžijskog ćevapa..., dok se poslije mogu zasladiti desertima iz stare bosanske kuhinje poput tufahija, hurmašica, kadaifa i jabukovače, čiji se okusi savršeno uklapaju s okusom bosanske kafe pravljene u bakrenim džezvama.

Noći su ljeti kratke, ali duge za one koji ne žele ići na spavanje dočekujući sehur, jutarnji obrok, u gradu. Vjernici se mole u dvorištima džamija, dok ih radoznale oči prolaznika posmatraju s ulaza želeći osjetiti spuštanje milosti za kojom se toliko čezne. U ovim noćima roditelji ne brinu šta rade njihovi omladinci, jer se pretežno okupljaju u čaršijskim lokalima, gdje uz uživo svirku zapjevaju i duhovne i svjetovne pjesme. Sve u stilu - mir u duši, radost u životu. 64


one cooks, someone cleans up, someone serves, and someone stands in the long line in front of popular Sarajevan bakeries in order to bring some hot somun bread home, without which an iftar would be almost unimaginable.

MAGICAL RAMADAN

Nights in Sarajevo

A TIME WHEN TRADITION COMES TO LIFE CONNECTING ALL KIND-HEARTED PEOPLE Written by: Elma ZEĆO

F

locks of birds fly across the blue-colored sky, mixed in with the sounds of the evening when the cannon is fired from the bastions of the Žuta Tabija (Yellow Fortress) in the old Sarajevan suburb of Vratnik. The echo is heard across the entire city, and at the same time the kandilji (mosque lamps) are lit on all mosques, providing a special light across the city. This tradition indicates the breaking of the fast, which for Muslims starts at dawn and ends at sunset. During this period, believers must not eat, drink, have bad thoughts, or fulfill any bodily pleasures, and their fast is complete when they open their hearts to mercy and compassion for people who need care.

THE ATTRACTION OF THE SARAJEVAN CANNON However, regardless of whether someone fasts or not, everyone enjoys the magic that the holy month brings with it. That is why both those who fast and numerous tourists gather at the Žuta Tabija, viewing the firing of the cannon as a great tourist attraction. This place is seen by many as having an irreplaceable atmosphere for iftar (evening meal). Along with all that, there is also a fantastic view of the city, which slowly drifts off into the night. The hearts of those who are sitting down for a joint meal in their homes are also warm. Everyone does their part before that. Some-

However, in one part of Sarajevo the atmosphere is particularly lively. And unforgettable. That is Baščaršija. If you’re having a stroll before sunset, you’ll notice the staff at various establishments hurriedly preparing their outdoor seating and setting the tables where, among other things, there will definitely be dates, because it is also one of the traditions among many Muslims to break their fast by eating them. If you haven’t booked a table, you’ll have a hard time finding an available spot for dinner. It is busy everywhere. Dishes from the Ramadan menu are usually served, so it is an opportunity for many guests of the city to try traditional dishes such as topa, sarajevski sahan, hadžijski ćevap..., while later on they can sweeten things up with old Bosnian desserts, such as tufahija, hurmašica, kadajif and jabukovača, which all go perfectly with the taste of Bosnian coffee made in copper džezve (coffee pots). Summer nights are short, but they’re long for those who don’t want to go to sleep as they await suhoor, the pre-dawn meal, in town. Believers pray in the courtyards of mosques, while the curious eyes of passers-by observe from the entrance, wishing to feel the mercy from Above which is yearned for so much. These nights parents don’t worry about what their teenagers are doing, as they are predominantly in the cafes at Bačaršija, where along with live music they sing both religious and popular songs. All in the spirit of – a peaceful soul equals happiness in life. 65


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

GAZI HUSREV-BEGOVA

MEDRESA 481 godina prenošenja znanja NI U SVIJETU NEMA MNOGO ŠKOLA KOJE RADE BEZ PREKIDA PET VIJEKOVA, POPUT GAZI HUSREV-BEGOVE MEDRESE, ČIJE SE NASTAVNO OSOBLJE UVIJEK S VELIKOM PAŽNJOM BIRALO Piše: Elma ZEĆO, Foto: Haris KARAMEHMEDOVIĆ

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O

snovana davne 1537. godine u srcu Baščaršije, Gazi Husrev-begova medresa slovila je za vrelo znanja i mudrosti na kojem su se hiljade učenika i učenica željeli okrijepiti. Drugačije nije moglo biti na mjestu koje predstavlja dio raskošne zadužbine čuvenog Gazi Husrev-bega.

MARŠIRAJ SVOJIM ŽIVOTNIM PUTEM Upravitelj Bosne u doba Osmanskog carstva i velikodušni sin bosanskog plemića Ferhat-bega i

kćerke sultana Bajezida II, Seldžuke, zahvaljujući učenosti, hrabrosti i plemenitosti uspio je prerasti granice podneblja kojem je pripadao upisavši se u historiju Sarajeva kao rado spominjana ličnost. Škola koju je naložio da se sagradi unutar njegove zadužbine nalikovala je elitnim školama u kojima se i sam u svoje vrijeme obrazovao, jer je mladim naraštajima želio najbolje: profesore koji će se birati prema stručnosti, pedagoškom iskustvu i ljudskim kvalitetima, no, osim dobrog nastavnog kadra, učenicima je pružana savremena nastava,


također komforan smještaj, te zdrava hrana. Gazi Husrev-begova medresa najprije je nosila naziv po majci vakifa, međutim ljudi su je kasnije prozvali Kuršumlijom zbog olovnog krovnog omotača. U duhu širokogrudnosti Gazi Husrev-bega, i medresa se trudila u svim vremenima imati veliko srce za sve učenike koji bi se opredijelili godine obrazovanja provesti pod njenim krovom. Pored prenošenja znanja, profesorima je uvijek bilo važno poštovati integritet djece, mladih ljudi, te unijeti u njihova bića odlučnost za hrabro koračanje kroz život, onako kako

je to libanonski pisac Khalil Gibran lijepo sročio: “Marširaj. Ne zastaj. Ići naprijed znači kretati se prema savršenosti. Marširaj, i ne boj se trnja, ili oštrog kamenja na životnom putu”. Među više hiljada maturanata medrese našli su se tako ugledni profesori, sudije, naučnici, akademici, imami, reisu-l-uleme, gradonačelnici, diplomate, ministri... Iz savremenog doba BiH istaknuti Bošnjaci koji su također završili ovu medresu su, između ostalih, Haris Silajdžić, Esad Duraković, Enes Karić, te Rešid Hafizović.

USTANOVA S REPUTACIJOM Puni pogled na skladnu građevinu Gazi Husrev-begove medrese, građenu od bosanskog kamena i olova, dobija se tek kada provirite iza vrata ne previše upadljive kapije odmah uz ulicu preko puta Begove džamije. Prema projektu arhitekte Osmanskog carstva, Perzijanca Adžema Esira Alija, centralni dio velikog kompleksa u pročelju zatvorenog dvorišta čini predavaonica zvana dershana, dok su krilne prostorije pretežno boravišnog tipa. S vremenom su rađene i određene popravke, s tim da one nikada nisu bile u sukobu

67


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

s originalnim arhitektonskim konceptom medrese, koja će se u društvu ustoličiti kao cijenjena odgojno-obrazovna ustanova. Mada u doba osnivanja nije imala vjerski predznak, novonastale društveno-političke i kulturne prilike u zemlji uspostavljanjem austrougarske uprave rezultirale su da Gazi Husrev-begova medresa bude imenovana vjerskom školom. Međutim, kako je doba Austro-Ugarske također bilo i vrijeme plodonosnog djelovanja Bošnjaka, medresa je zadržala svoju reputaciju.

UČENICI IZ RAZLIČITIH ZEMALJA Iako se rijetko spominju stariji nazivi medrese, vrijedi znati da je naziv Gazi Husrev-begova medresa zvanično ušao u upotrebu tek 1921. godine činom ujedinjenja medrese Kuršumlija i derviške akademije halvetijskog reda zvane Hanikah. Za organizaciju njenog rada kroz historiju se provlači nekoliko važnih datuma, među kojima i april 1939. godine kada se jasno definiše karakter medrese. Vakufsko-mearifski sabor u Sarajevu usvaja tada uredbu o Gazi Husrev-begovoj medresi kao potpunoj srednjoj stručnoj školi, koja daje opće vjersko obrazovanje u duhu islama i sprema kandidate za različite vjerske uloge, te nastavak školovanja na drugim obrazovnim nivoima. Bilo je to moguće zahvaljujući šarolikom programu medrese, koji ne uključuje samo vjerske predmete nego i društvene kao i prirodne nauke. Danas Gazi Husrev-begovu medresu pohađaju učenici osam muških i osam ženskih odjeljenja iz cijele Bosne i Hercegovine, ali i stranih zemalja odakle djeca čiji su roditelji davno otišli iz BiH rado dolaze na školovanje. Privlačna obala koju već nekoliko stotina godina zapljuskuje voda znanja odskočna je daska za njihove velike snove koje žele ostvariti idući stazama budućnosti. 68


GAZI HUSREV BEY’S

MADRASSA

481 Years of Passing down Knowledge

NOT MANY SCHOOLS ACROSS THE WORLD HAVE OPERATED WITHOUT INTERRUPTION FOR FIVE CENTURIES LIKE GAZI HUSREV BEY’S MADRASSAH HAS, AND IT HAS ALWAYS PAID SPECIAL CARE TO THE SELECTION OF ITS TEACHING STAFF Written by: Elma ZEĆO, Photo: Haris KARAMEHMEDOVIĆ

F

ounded way back in 1537 in the heart of Baščaršija, Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah is famed for being a spring of knowledge and wisdom where thousands of male and female students come with a thirst for knowledge. It could not have been any other way at the place which is a part of famed Gazi Husrev Bey’s magnificent endowment.

MARCH DOWN THE PATH OF YOUR LIFE Owing to his education, courage and charitable spirit, the governor of Bosnia during the Ottoman Empire and generous son of Bosnian aristocrat Ferhat Bey and Sultan Bayezid II’s daughter Seljuq managed to become

known beyond the borders of the place he belonged to and made history in Sarajevo as a figure people are happy to remember. The school he ordered to be built as part of his endowment resembled the elite schools he himself attended because he wanted the best for the young generations: professors who would be selected on the basis of competence, pedagogical experience and human qualities; apart from quality teaching staff, students have also been taught using modern methods of teaching and provided with comfortable accommodation and healthy food. Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah was at first named after the waqf’s mother, but people later began to call it Kuršumlija because of the lead-coated copper covering its roof. In the spirit of Gazi Husrev Bey’s generosity, the Maddrassah also endeavored to always wholeheartedly welcome all the students who decided to spend their schooling years under its roof. In addition to passing down knowledge, its professors found it important to respect the children’s or the young people’s integrity at all times and instil in the students the strength of mind to boldly walk down their life’s path the way Khalil Gibran, Lebanese writer, wonderfully put it: “March on. Do not tarry. To go forward is to move toward perfection. March on, and fear not the thorns, or the sharp stones on life’s path.” Among several thousand graduates of the Madrassah are distinguished professors, judges, scientists, academicians, imams, the Grand Mufti (reisu-l-ulema), city mayors, diplomats, government ministers... In recent times in B&H, distinguished Bosniaks who also graduated from the Madrassah are, among others, Haris Silajdžić, Esad Duraković, Enes Karić, and Rešid Hafizović. 69


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

The Waqf and Mearif Board in Sarajevo passed a decree on Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah designating it as a fully vocational secondary school providing general religious education in the spirit of Islam and preparing candidates for various religious roles and enabling them to pursue further education at different educational levels. This was made possible thanks to the Madrassah’s diverse program which does not involve only religious subjects, but social and natural sciences as well.

REPUTABLE INSTITUTION A full view of the harmonious edifice of Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah, which is made of Bosnian stone and lead, is possible only when you peek out at it from behind the door of the inconspicuous gate right next to the alley across the Bey’s Mosque. According to the design of an architect of the Ottoman Empire, Persian architect Adžem Esir Ali, the central area of the large complex is the lecture hall called the dershana situated at the front of the closed courtyard, while the rooms off to the side are areas of predominantly residential character. As time went by, certain repairs to the building were done, but they never conflicted with the original architectural concept of the Madrassah which would establish itself as a highly regarded educational institution. Even though it was not a religious school when it was founded, the new social, political and cultural

70

situation in the country that arose with the establishment of the Austro-Hungarian rule resulted in Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah being named a religious school. However, as the Austro-Hungarian period was also a time of Bosniaks’ productive engagement, the Madrassah maintained its reputation.

STUDENTS FROM VARIOUS COUNTRIES Even though the older names of the Madrassah do not get mentioned very often, it is worth knowing that the name Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah began to be officially used as late as 1921 when the Kuršumli Madrassah and the Khanikah, the dervish academy of the Khalwati Order, were united. A few important dates related to the organization of its operation are often referred to in history books, including April 1939 when the Madrassah’s character was clearly defined.

Today, Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrassah is attended by students in eight male and eight female classes coming from places across Bosnia and Herzegovina and from foreign countries, since children whose parents emigrated from B&H a long time ago are happy to receive an education here. This attractive shore, which has been washed by the waters of education for a number of centuries, is a springboard for their big dreams and they will take steps on the path of the future to make them true.


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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

U BiH POČINJE

ljetna avantura! Ljepota rijeka učinila je da BiH 2009. postane domaćin Svjetskog prvenstva u raftingu i sve više u svijetu bude prepoznata kao destinacija avanturističkog turizma.

I ovog ljeta kod nas vas očekuje mnoštvo zanimljivih aktivnosti koje imaju moć da vas opuste, obraduju ili dovedu u situaciju neponovljivih iskustava od kojih će vam adrenalin vrisnuti. Svi ti doživljaji upisat će se na stranicama vaših memoara kao događaji vrijedni prepričavanja.

B&H SUMMER

Adventure Begins! Its stunningly beautiful rivers are the reason why B&H hosted the 2009 World Rafting Championship, and why it has become recognized worldwide as a great adventure tourism destination.

This summer too you can expect plenty of fun things to do here that can make you feel relaxed and overjoyed or make it possible for you to enjoy unforgettable adventures which make you feel your adrenaline rush skyrocketing like crazy. Memories of all these adventures will fill the pages of your memory book with stories worth sharing. 72


www.visitkonjic.com 73


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

ČAJDŽINICA DŽIRLO

Ah, meraka!

SARAJEVSKI LOKAL O KOJEM SU PISALI SVJETSKI MEDIJI I KOJI JE NA TRIPADVISORU PROGLAŠAVAN NAJBOLJIM

otvore u malu kao čokolada slatku Čajdžinicu Džirlo. U samo 20 kvadrata stalo je mnogo toga: lijepa porodična priča, vlasnikov svjetonazor, a kroz goste, koji dolaze iz različitih država, jedan veliki dio svijeta.

Piše: Elma ZEĆO, Foto: Elvira LEKA

''S čim ćemo vaše duše zadovoljiti'', pita vlasnik Husein Džirlo

L

aganim hodom uz Kovače najprije se rađaju misli o jednostavnosti ulice kojom koračate. No, već kada sluh i osjećaji nadjačaju čulo vida, postajete postepeno svjesni njene osebujnosti, a kasnije hronike zanimljivosti koju svakodnevno stišće u svoj čvrsti zagrljaj.

MALO MJESTO, VELIKI UŽITAK S desne strane, maštovito poput prolaza kroz ormar u Narnijskim hronikama, ulazite kroz velike 74

pristigle gošće, dok ga čekamo za stolićem kojeg kao i sve susjedne stolove na samom ulazu krase crvene zdjelice s bijelim tufnama u kojima je zasađena jednostavna biljka jake simbolike - čuvarkuća. Izgled poda kroje brojni mali ćilimi različitih dekoracija i boja, police krase kućni predmeti i knjige, a


atmosferu uveličava prikladna muzika. Živo je i ispred čajdžinice, mještani i turisti stalno prolaze, nastaju fotografije za dugo sjećanje, ali i ukrasni predmeti u susjednim kazandžijskim radnjama iz kojih dopiru zvukovi čekića.

USLIŠENA OČEVA ŽELJA Nakon što je enterijer osmislio arhitekta Amir Vuk Zec, a dekoraciju prostora vlasnik Husein, Čajdžinica Džirlo svoja vrata otvorila je 2012. godine. Kada se vratio iz inostranstva u rodni grad, vođen rukom sudbine Husein je poželio da usliši očevu želju, koji je njegovom bratu blizancu i njemu još dok su bili tinejdžeri rekao: ''Hasane i Huseine, imate dvije radnje, poslije moje smrti neka jedan vodi stolariju, a drugi neka otvori čajdžinicu''. O onom što mu otac ostavlja u amanet Husein nije razmišljao živeći dugo u različitim zemljama Evrope. Bio je mlad pun energije i želja za otkrivanjem čari života, no očeva smrt počinje ga vući prema Sarajevu, gdje će u konačnici, kao suprug i otac, odlučiti spustiti svoje sidro. Priznaje da mu fale putevi, ali zato su se oni s različitih kontinenata otvorili upravo prema njegovoj čajdžinici gdje srdačno dočekuje sve goste. Ovdje kada dođete Husein će vam obavezno pružiti ruku dobrodošlice, ali također ustati i ljubazno vas ispratiti na izlasku.

Sve što je urađeno vrijedilo je kao što vrijedi sve što se danas radi kako bi čajdžinica zadržala svoj prepoznatljivi duh. O njoj su pisali i poznati magazini poput New York Timesa, Sunday Timesa, Washington Posta..., te su priloge snimale različite televizijske kuće, kao što je, naprimjer, italijanski Rai. ''Nisam očekivao ovakav uspjeh. Štaviše, postojala je sumnja da čajdžinica može uspjeti kod nas, ali htio sam je napraviti po svaku cijenu. Priča je u kratkom roku poprimila sasvim drugačiju dimenziju. Na TripAdvisoru 2014., 2015. i 2016. čajdžinica je proglašena najboljim lokalom. Ovo je moje zadovoljstvo, gdje boravim 8, 9, 10 sati, upoznajem nove ljude, razgovaram, napunim se dobrom energijom'', kaže

Husein, koji je ponudu čajdžinice oplemenio sa čak 73 napitka. Tu su 53 vrste čaja, različite kafe i ukusni osvježavajući sokovi pravljeni od, naprimjer, zove, mente, ruže..., te tradicionalni slatki napitak salep.

U ambijentu u kojem, između ostalih, možete čuti marokanske i turske melodije, grčke i francuske šansone, koje gosti nerijetko požele i privatno da slušaju, osjetit ćete snažne vibracije zadovoljstva i ekspresiju užitka kroz lokalnu riječ ćeif. Ko ga nije doživio, ne zna šta je; ko ga živi, i drugima ga zna pokazati. Baš kao i Husein Džirlo. 75


PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Džirlo Tea House

Oh, the pleasure and joy!

AN ESTABLISHMENT IN SARAJEVO WHICH HAS BEEN FEATURED IN QUITE A FEW INTERNATIONAL MEDIA OUTLETS AND REPEATEDLY VOTED AS THE BEST ESTABLISHMENT ON TRIPADVISOR Written by: Elma ZEĆO Photo: Elvira LEKA

A

s you slowly ascend up a street called Kovači, the first thought that comes to mind is the simplicity of the street you are walking along. But, when what you are able to hear overtakes what you are able to see, you gradually begin to understand how distinctive the street is, and only later on do you realize the chronicles of intricacies the street holds tightly in its embrace every day.

SMALL PLACE, GREAT PLEASURE On the right side, you enter the small, sweet like chocolate Džirlo Tea House through a large door resembling the magical portal 76

through the wardrobe in the Chronicles of Narnia. An area of only 20 square meters is home to a lot of things: a wonderful family story, the owner’s philosophy of life, and a large part of the world, through the guests who come from various countries. “How can we feed your soul?” the owner, Husein Džirlo, asks the guests who have just entered the tea house, while we are waiting for him at a little table which is decorated with charming red bowls with white spots just like all the other neighboring tables and a simple plant that has a strong symbolic meaning—houseleek—is planted in these bowls.


Little carpets in a wide variety of patterns and colors cover the floor, household items and books are placed on shelves, and appropriately selected music creates a good atmosphere. It is very lively outside the tea house too, as locals and tourists alike are passing by all the time snapping memorable photos to cherish for a lifetime, and decorative items are being made in the neighboring coppersmith shops, while the rhythmic sounds of hammer against metal reverberate down the street.

FATHER’S WISH FULFILLED Once architect Amir Vuk Zec had designed the interior, and owner Husein had decorated the place, Džirlo Tea House opened its doors to customers in 2012. When he moved back to his hometown after living abroad, destiny led Husein to fulfill his father’s wish. When he and his twin brother were still teenagers, their father used to tell them, “Hasan and Husein, you’ve got two pieces of property, and when I die one of you should run a carpentry business, and the other one a tea house.” While he was living in different European countries, Husein did not think of the property he had inherited from his father. He was

young, full of energy and desire to discover the magic of life, but after his father’s death he began to feel drawn to Sarajevo, and at the end of the day, Sarajevo is the place where he decided to put his anchor down, both as a husband and a father. He admits that he misses the road, but the road to his tea house, where he cordially meets each of his guests has opened up to people travelling from different continents. When you come to his tea house, he always extends his hand to shake yours as he welcomes you inside, and he always stands up to bid you farewell on your way out too. Everything that has been done was worth it, just as everything that is still being done today is worth it to preserve the recognizable spirit of the tea house. Popular magazines, such as The New York Times, The Sunday Times, The Washington Post etc, have written stories about it, and various television stations covered the story of Džirlo Tea House, such as, for instance, the Italian TV station Rai. “I didn’t expect it to be this successful. What’s more, I doubted that a tea house could be a successful business venture around here, but I wanted to open it at any cost. Before long, the story took on a com-

pletely different dimension. In 2014, 2015 and 2016 Džirlo Tea House was the best-rated establishment on TripAdvisor. This is the place that brings me great joy, the place where I spend 8, 9, 10 hours, meet new people, talk to people, and fill my mind and soul with positive energy,” says Husein, whose tea house offers as many as 73 different blends. The selection includes 53 types of tea, different types of coffee, as well as delicious and refreshing beverages made of, for instance, elderberry, mint, rose… and a traditional sweet drink called salep. In the ambiance where, among other types of music, you can listen to Moroccan and Turkish melodies, Greek and French chansons that the guests often want to listen to in their own time too, you will get to feel strong vibes of joy and pleasure, an expression of enjoyment and pleasure summed up in a local word—ćeif (extreme pleasure; relishing in doing something). Those who have not experienced it do not know what it is; those who live it can show it to others. Just like Husein Džirlo does. 77


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Top atrakcija Sarajeva

TREBEVIĆKA ŽIČARA NEŠTO VIŠE OD SEDAM MINUTA DIJELI VAS ZAHVALJUJUĆI NOVOOTVORENOJ TREBEVIĆKOJ ŽIČARI OD PLUĆA GRADA SARAJEVA – PRELIJEPE PLANINE TREBEVIĆ, VISOKE PREKO 1600 METARA S KOJE SE PRUŽA NEZABORAVAN POGLED NA DRUGE PLANINE I DOLINE SARAJEVSKE OKOLINE Piše: Elma ZEĆO

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S

amo što je otvorena, ispred polazišta Trebevićke žičare stajala je rijeka ljudi. Svako je želio iskoristiti lijepo vrijeme i brzi dolazak iz grada na planinu, ne samo Sarajlije nego i brojni turisti motivisani slikama s otvaranja koje su objavili brojni mediji na Dan grada Sarajeva, 6. aprila 2018., kada je žičara oživjela nakon 26 godina. Ipak, ko dobro pamti prijeratno Sarajevo, zna da su i tada redovi ljudi koji su čekali na vožnju žičarom znali počinjati i u obližnjoj ulici Avdage Šahinagića.

SPOSOBNI SMO GRADITI! Tog dana, na svečanoj ceremoniji, ni sam gradonačelnik Sarajeva, Abdulah Skaka, nije krio svoje emocije: “Ovdje sam proveo svoj život, rođen sam 50 metara od ovog mjesta i moj san je bio da se jednoga dana vozim ovom žičarom. Otvaranjem Trebevićke žičare obnavljamo posljednji srušeni simbol Sarajeva. Zato je ovo veliki dan za naš grad, jer pričamo o jednoj emociji, skidamo nevidljivu granicu, zajednički radimo na izgradnji BiH, na pomirenju naroda, to je naša želja, naša misija, zato smo danas ovdje, da pokažemo da smo sposobni graditi, praviti i da smo vrijedan narod”, rekao je u svom obraćanju brojnim gostima iz različitih zemalja.

Foto: Haris KARAMEHMEDOVIĆ

Posebno su u fokusu bili donatori obnove Trebevićke žičare, koja je bila u pogonu od 1959. do 1992. godine kada je uništena u svirepim ratnim razaranjima Sarajeva. Vjerovatno bi se još dugo čekalo na nju da nije bilo filantropa, nuklearnog fizičara Edmonda Offermana i njegove supruge, Sarajke Maje Serdarević iz New Yorka, također nuklearne fizičarke. Njihova empatija prenijela se na rukovodstvo Uprave Grada Sarajeva na čelu s gradonačelnikom Abdulahom Skakom, a njihova zajednička energija na mnogobrojne druge ljude i nivoe djelovanja koji su omogućili realizaciju velikog projekta. U svemu tome glavni pokretač i vodilja bila je ljubav, stoga se na Trebevićku žičaru gleda i kao na svojevrsni spomenik

najljepše emocije na svijetu, ljubavi, bračnog para Offerman. A da je Trebevićka žičara više od tehnoloških dostignuća i moderne infrastrukture vidjelo se u trenutku kada se na sceni pojavio Muhamed Hamadžić, koji je svoju penziju zaradio na žičari, ukazujući na značaj svih ljudi koji su bili vezani za žičaru i emocije koje je sačuvalo vrijeme. Počeo je 1961. godine. Radio je kao strojar žičare i poslovođa elektropostrojenja zapamtivši za 35 godina obilje dešavanja na žičari. Od njegovih kolega, nažalost, danas više niko nije živ. Zbog činjenice da je svoj radni vijek posvetio Trebevićkoj žičari Grad Sarajevo mu je dodijelio priznanje u obliku makete Trebevićke žičare.

DOPRINOS TURISTIČKOM RAZVOJU Za razliku od prijašnje žičare s kojom se do Trebevića vozilo 12 minuta, nova Trebevićka žičara iz grada na planinu putnike dovodi za nešto više od sedam minuta. Pogled na Sarajevo podjednako je živopisan, samo su se metode njegovog bilježenja promijenile, pa su društvene mreže na Dan grada Sarajeva 2018. bile preplavljene selfiejima radosnih građana koji su se uspjeli ukrcati na prve vožnje.

Trebevićka žičara ima 33 kabine, u svakoj po deset mjesta. U mogućnosti je za sat vremena da preveze 1.200 putnika, a očekuje se da će je godišnje koristiti pola miliona ljudi. Svoje fanove već ima. Dobila je i svoju pjesmu Trebević opet silazi u grad u izvedbi Zdravka Čolića, Jasne Gospić, Ismete Dervoz i Harija Varešanovića. Sve to dočarava koliko je željno iščekivana i koliko će moći utjecati na razvoj turističkog sadržaja Trebevića kao i samog lokaliteta. 79


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SARAJEVO'S TOP ATTRACTION

TREBEVIĆ CABLE CAR THANKS TO THE NEWLYOPENED TREBEVIĆ CABLE CAR, YOU ARE JUST OVER SEVEN MINUTES AWAY FROM THE “LUNGS” OF THE CITY OF SARAJEVO – BEAUTIFUL MOUNT TREBEVIĆ WITH A SUMMIT AT 1600 M ABOVE SEA LEVEL FEATURING AN UNFORGETTABLE VIEW OF OTHER MOUNTAINS AND THE SARAJEVO VALLEY Written by: Elma ZEĆO 80

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aving just been opened, the starting point of the Trebević Cable Car was jam-packed with visitors. Each of them wanted to use the sunny weather to quickly escape the city and go up to the mountain, not just Sarajevans, but also a great number of tourists inspired by the pictures from the opening ceremony which were published by several news outlets on the Day of the City of Sarajevo, April 6th 2018, when the cable car was brought back to life after 26 years. However, those who remember pre-war Sarajevo know that back then people also waited in line that stretched all the way to the neighboring Avdage Šahinagića Street to go for a cable car ride.

WE ARE CAPABLE OF BUILDING! That day, at the festive opening ceremony, Abdulah Skaka, Mayor of Sarajevo could not hide his emotions himself: “This is where I’ve spent my life. I was born 50 meters from this place and I dreamt of going for a ride in this cable car one day. By launching the Trebević Cable Car we are restoring the last symbol of Sarajevo that had been destroyed. That’s why this is a great day for our city, because we’re talking about an emotion here, we’re removing an invisible border, we’re working together to build B&H, to reconcile


its peoples, this is what we want, this is our mission, this is why we’re here today – we want to show that we’re able to build, to make, and that we’re a diligent nation,” he said in a speech he delivered to a large number of guests from various countries. Donors who funded the reconstruction of the Trebević Cable Car, which had operated from 1959 to 1992, when it was brutally destroyed during the shelling of Sarajevo during the war, were the center of attention. It probably would have taken longer to reconstruct it had there not been for the two philanthropists, nuclear physicist Edmond Offerman, and his wife, Sarajevan Maja Serdarević from New York, who is also a nuclear physicist. Their empathy spread to the management of the Sarajevo City Administration led by Mayor Abdulah Skaka, and their common energy transferred to many other people and all those who partook in this project on various levels to make it happen. The main driving force and guiding light in all this was love, so the Trebević Cable Car is a sort of monument to the most beautiful emotion in the world – love, the love of the Offermans as a married couple. One could see that the Trebević Cable Car is more than just a technologically advanced and modern piece

of infrastructure when Muhamed Hamadić, who earned his retirement benefit operating the cable car, made his appearance on stage. He pointed out how important all the people whose activities involved the cable car were and the emotions that have remained intact over time. He started off in 1961. He was the cable car engineer and power station manager and in his 35-year working career he memorized quite a few things that happened at the cable car. Regrettably, none of his former colleagues are still alive. Due to the fact that he dedicated his whole working career to the Trebević Cable Car the City of Sarajevo presented him with a reward – a scale model of the Trebević Cable Car.

CONTRIBUTION TO DEVELOPMENT OF TOURISM Unlike the previous cable car, which took people from the city center to Mount Trebević in 12 minutes, the new Trebević Cable Car does so in just over seven minutes. The views of Sarajevo are equally vivid, it is only the method of capturing Sarajevo in photos that has changed; on the Day of the City of Sarajevo 2018 social networking sites were swamped with selfies of joyous people who managed to get on board the cable cars to take the first rides. Trebević Cable Car comprises 33 carriages, each seating 10 passengers. It is able to carry 1200 passengers per hour, and it is expected that half a million people will be using it annually. It already has fans. It has its song too – Trebević is coming down into the town again, which is performed by Zdravko Čolić, Jasna Gospić, Ismeta Dervoz and Hari Varešanović. All this shows just how eagerly people waited for it to become operational again and how much it can influence the development of the tourist offer in Trebević and the location of the cable car itself. 81


INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

SETTING A TONE FOR A GREAT TRAVEL EXPERIENCE Nota Hoteli offer Sarajevo visitors a choice of two individual boutique hotels: Hotel Ovo Malo Duše and Hotel Ruža - both with highest standards of accommodation and each with original appeal. Founded by the devoted and experienced Berlin hotelier Munib Preljević, Nota Hoteli express a personal vision that combines international hotel expertise with the soul of Bosnia and Herzegovina. We at Nota Hoteli offer our guests much more than just four walls and a bed: we promise a Sarajevo stay with a very personal touch.

www.notahoteli.com 82


Level up Odmaralište u srcu

Trebevica

OKRUŽEN ŠUMSKOM VEGETACIJOM ČETINARA I BOGATIM IZVORIŠTIMA PITKE VODE, HOTEL I RESTORAN LEVEL UP NALAZI SE NA 1160 METARA NADMORSKE VISINE 83


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

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akon 20 minuta za vaše zdravlje prijatne šetnje od Trebevićke žičare kroz netaknutu prirodu stižete do restorana i hotela Level Up u čijoj se neposrednoj blizini čak možete osvježiti i vodom s jedinstvenog izvora. Sve se ovo dešava na samo pet kilometara udaljenosti od centra Sarajeva, ili 10 do 15 minuta vožnje autom, gdje će vam mirno okruženje Trebevića omogućiti također ugodan san nakon iscrpljujućih dnevnih aktivnosti. Ovisno o sezoni, gosti mogu uživati u nizu aktivnosti koje pruža Level up: streličarstvu, jahanju konja, zipp lineu za odrasle dužine preko 200 metara, adrenalinskom parku za djecu - jedan takav uskoro će dobiti

i odrasli, te opuštajućoj šetnji mnogobrojnim šumskim stazama.

MJESTO ZA POSLOVNE DOGAĐAJE I PORODICU Hotel i restoran Level up idealan je za organizovanje škole u prirodi, izleta, seminara, sastanaka, team building aktivnosti i drugih vrsta poslovnih događaja poput prijema, cocktaila, ručkova i večera. Za preduzeća i organizacije koje su u potrazi za harmoničnim okruženjem i atmosferom, vrhunskim smještajem i odličnom hranom sve to po veoma povoljnim cijenama - Level up je, uvjerit ćete se, idealno mjesto. Raspolaže s potpuno opremljenom i modernom konferencijskom dvoranom za 80 učesnika i timom koji će vam uz stručnu i tehničku asistenciju pomoći da uspješno isplanirate i realizujete željeni događaj. Smještajnog kapaciteta od 40 do 70 osoba, u Level upu se nalaze četiri apartmana, šest dvokrevetnih i isto toliko trokrevetnih soba opremljenih telefonom, wireless internet konekcijom i TV uređajem. Hotel također ima svoju teretanu, salu za stoni tenis, bilijar, sobu za ljubitelje play stationa i igraonu za djecu.

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Restoranom dominira prekrasan moderni ambijent naglašavajući mirno okruženje Level upa. Zimi je poseban doživljaj jesti uz kamin, a ljeti na terasi s prelijepim pogledom na Sarajevo i krajolik Trebevića. Zastupljena je domaća kuhinja s velikim izborom jela, salata i kolača. Menadžment i osoblje Level upa posebnu pažnju poklanjaju zdravoj hrani, odabiru pouzdanih dobavljača, te osiguranju kontinuiteta kvaliteta i zdravstvene sigurnosti sirovina i namirnica koje stižu u kuhinju Level upa. Predahnite od posla, dođite s porodicom ili pozovite klijenta na poslovni ručak, Level up će se pobrinuti za vaš ugodni boravak! Dok dišete punim plućima, uz prelijep pogled na Sarajevo uživajte u ukusnim i tradicionalnim jelima ovog idiličnog ugostiteljskog objekta. Kontakt: Level up Trebević Mali Studenac bb Telefon: 061 986 050 E-mail: levelup.spahills@gmail.com


Level up Resort in the Heart of Trebević SURROUNDED BY A CONIFEROUS FOREST AND RICH SPRINGS OF POTABLE WATER, LEVEL UP HOTEL AND RESTAURANT IS SITUATED AT AN ALTITUDE OF 1160 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL

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fter a 20-minute walk from the Trebević Cable Car through pristine nature, which boosts your health, you reach Level Up Hotel and Restaurant and in its immediate vicinity you can stop by a unique spring and refresh yourself. All this is within a mere 5-kilometer radius from the center of Sarajevo, or a 10-15 minute drive, and Trebević’s peaceful surroundings creates a pleasant environment for you to have some rest from the exhausting daily routine. Depending on the season, guests can partake in a range of activities available at Level Up: archery, horse-back riding, an over 200-meter long zip line for adults, an adrenaline park for children – adults will soon have their own adrenaline park too, and relaxing walking tours along numerous forest trails.

team building activities and other types of corporate events such as receptions, cocktail parties, as well as lunch and dinner parties. Companies and organizations seeking a harmonious environment and atmosphere, first-class accommodation and exceptional food – and all this at affordable prices – will come to realize that Level Up is the ideal place to come to. It features a fully equipped up-to-date conference hall with 80 seats and a competent team ready to assist you in technical and other matters you need to successfully plan and run the event you want.

VENUE FOR CORPORATE EVENTS AND FAMILY

With a capacity of 40 to 70 guests, Level Up offers four suites, six single and six triple rooms all equipped with a telephone, a wireless internet connection and a TV set. The hotel also has its own gym, game rooms with table tennis and billiards, a playroom for play station enthusiasts and a playground for children.

Level Up Hotel and Restaurant is an ideal place to organize residential outdoor education programs, short trips, seminars, meetings,

The restaurant’s predominantly modern interior ambiance accentuates the peaceful surroundings of the hotel. Dining by the fireplace

is a delightful experience in winter, while in summer dining on the terrace offers wonderful views of Sarajevo and of the landscape that surrounds Mount Trebević. Local cuisine with a wide variety of dishes, salads and cakes dominates the menu. The management and personnel at Level Up pay particular attention to healthy food by selecting reliable food suppliers and making sure that the quality and safety of raw ingredients and food products delivered to the kitchen at Level Up is always maintained. Take a break from work, bring your family members with you or invite a client to a business lunch, and Level Up will make sure your stay is pleasant and enjoyable! Breathe fully and relish in the views Sarajevo as you indulge in tasty and traditional dishes made in this idyllic catering establishment. Contact: Level up Trebević Mali Studenac bb Telephone: 061 986 050 E-mail: levelup.spahills@gmail.com

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WELCOME TO

HERZEGOVINA Neretva

Rafting na Neretvi Od pet rijeka na kojima se rafting obavlja u Bosni i Hercegovini jedna od najsigurnijih je Neretva, što ne znači da će iskustvo raftinga biti blago - adrenalin je svakako zagarantiran.

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očetna točka raftinga nadomak je grada Konjica, u rafting centru Džajića buk. Ovdje ćete imati priliku uživati u prirodi, šumu rijeke i odličnoj tradicionalnoj kuhinji za doručak. Nakon što dobijete osnovne informacije o samom raftingu, obucite se u neopren odijelo i zaštitite kacigom i prslukom za spašavanje, spremni ste krenuti u nezaboravnu avanturu. Prijevoz od rafting centra do početne točke raftinga, koji je osiguran od strane rafting kompanije, vas vodi pored Boračkog jezera do same obale Neretve. Nakon što rafting čamac isplovi na vodu otvaraju se nove dimenzije - netaknuta priroda, nedokučivi kanjon, divlji planinski pritoci, mali vodopadi, plaže koje pozivaju na odmor, sve u jednoj četverosatnoj avanturi. Licencirani skiper i veslo vaši su najbolji prijatelji dok izbjegavate stijene koje vire iz vode i dok se spuštate niz bukove. Javite se na e-maila dzajick@bih.net.ba ili putem telefona na +387 61 482 400. Za sve dodatne informacije posjetite www.raft.ba. Dođite, vidite, podijelite dalje. Vidimo se na Neretvi.

Mala tepa 9,88104 Mostar tel/fax: +387 36 552 633 mob: +387 62 225 553 e-mail: info@starimost-travel.com web: www.starimost-travel.com



BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

VISIT

Konjic

POZIVAMO VAS DA POSJETITE NAJATRAKTIVNIJE DESTINACIJE, UŽIVATE U TRADICIONALNOJ BOSANSKOJ KUHINJI I DOŽIVITE NEZABORAVNU AVANTURU U NETAKNUTOJ PRIRODI BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE. KOMBINACIJA AKTIVNOSTI U PRIRODI I OBILAZAK KULTURNO-HISTORIJSKOG NASLIJEĐA ČINI PONUDU AGENCIJE VISIT KONJIC JEDINSTVENOM, A VAŠU POSJETU NEZABORAVNOM. WE INVITE YOU TO VISIT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE DESTINATIONS, ENJOY TRADITIONAL BOSNIAN CUISINE AND EXPERIENCE AN UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA’S PRISTINE NATURE. A COMBINATION OF OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND CULTURAL AND HERITAGE SITES MAKES VISIT KONJIC AGENCY’S OFFER UNIQUE AND YOUR TRIP UNFORGETTABLE.

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TOP AVANTURISTIČKA PONUDA KANJONING TURA Doživite drugi najdublji kanjon u Evropi! TOP ADVENTURE OFFER CANYONING TOUR Check out the second deepest canyon in Europe!

VELIKA TAJNA BIVŠE JUGOSLAVIJE TITOV BUNKER Posjetite atomsku ratnu komandu skrivenu ispod planine Zlatar. FORMER YUGOSLAVIA’S BIG SECRET TITO’S BUNKER Visit the nuclear bunker and military command center hidden under Mount Zlatar.

OTKRIJTE NETAKNUTU PRIRODU LUKOMIRA BICIKLIZAM ILI PLANINARENJE Istražite netaknutu prirodu i probajte bh. organsku hranu. DISCOVER LUKOMIR’S PRISTINE NATURE BIKING OR HIKING TOUR Explore pristine nature and try B&H organic food.

OSJETITE NAJBOLJU TEAM BUILDING AKTIVNOST RAFTING Podijelite magično iskustvo i uživajte zajedno s prijateljima i porodicom. EXPERIENCE THE BEST TEAM BUILDING ACTIVITY RAFTING TOUR Partake in and enjoy this magical experience with your friends and family.

KONTAKT/CONTACT: Visit Konjic, Adresa/Address: Donje Polje do broja 1, 88400 Konjic, Telefon/Phone: +387 61 072 027 / +387 62 922 992, E-mail: info@visitkonjic.com 89


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

LJETNA AVANTURA

na rijeci Trebižat

POŽELITE LI SE TOKOM SPUSTA OKUPATI ILI SKAKATI S LIJANA, DOMAĆINI ĆE SE POTRUDITI PRONAĆI NAJBOLJE MJESTO I UČINITI SVE DA VAM OVAJ IZLET OSTANE NAJLJEPŠA USPOMENA LJETA

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ercegovačka rijeka Trebižat duga je od svoga izvora u Peć-Mlinima do ušća u Neretvu u Strugama ukupno 51 kilometar. Ponornica je i jedina u Evropi čak devet puta nestaje u tlu i ponovo izvire. Rijeku s devet imena, čiste i bistre vode, krivudavog toka i laganih brzaca najbolje ćete upoznati odlučite li se na kanu safari, interesantnu turističku atrakciju koju organizuje čapljinska Udruga “Tajna prirode”. 90

ČUDO FLORE I FAUNE Na samom početku ovog nesvakidašnjeg putovanja rijeka je tiha i mirna. No, s približavanjem ušću postaje brza i uzbudljiva. Temperatura vode u ljetnim mjesecima iznosi oko 20 stepeni, pa je odlična i za one osjetljive na temperaturne razlike. Dobna granica za sudionike safarija gotovo da i ne postoji, pogodan je kako za one u naponu snage željne adrenalina tako i one željne relaksacije i stapanja s prirodom.


Tokom izleta vidjet ćete mnogo riba i ptica različitih vrsta, kao i lijepe sedrene vodopade stopljene u savršeni sklad rijeke i netaknute prirode koja je okružuje. Uz asistenciju vodiča s dugogodišnjim iskustvom, gosti veoma brzo nauče rukovati veslom, upravljati kanuom i ponašati se prilikom nailaska na zahtjevnije dijelove spusta. Poželite li se tokom spusta okupati ili skakati s lijana, domaćini će se potruditi pronaći najbolje mjesto i učiniti sve da vam ovaj izlet ostane najljepša uspomena ljeta. Savršena kombinacija opuštajuće prirode i uzbudljivih kaskada čini ovaj izlet idealnim i za razna druženja poput teambuildinga i ekskurzija, a za avanturiste tu je i višednevni robinson canoeing. Svaki kanu predviđen je za po dvije osobe, a od opreme dobijate vesla, nepromočive vreće i prsluke. Na izletu ćete se najbolje osjećati u šorcu ili kupaćem kostimu, te sandalama ili sportskoj obući. Obavezno ponesite suhu odjeću za obući nakon spusta i vodu za piće, po želji sunčane naočale, kremu za sunčanje i fotoaparat. U osnovnoj ponudi gosti su u mogućnosti odabrati jednu od dvije startne lokacije Matica – Trebižat, ili Božjak – Studenci.

ADRENALIN I VRHUNSKA KUHINJA Prva ruta sa startom na Matici ukupno je duga oko osam kilometara i prosječno traje od dva i po do četiri sata. Rijeka se u ovom

dijelu toka grana na više zasebnih tokova prepunih uzbudljivih brzaka i vodopada koji i najiskusnije veslače ostavljaju bez daha. Dužinu rute određuje i zaustavljanje po želji gostiju u cilju kraćeg predaha, plivanja ili nekih drugih aktivnosti po želji. Gosti su također u mogućnosti birati između više vrhunskih tradicionalnih jela koja pripremaju iskusni majstori kulinarstva. Pauze za ručak po želji gostiju prave se u prirodi tokom izleta, ili po samom završetku spusta. Druga ruta sa startom na Božjaku nešto je zahtjevnija, ukupno je duga oko 12 kilometara i traje pet do šest sati. Na početnom dijelu rute rijeka još nije poprimila razgranati oblik i u nedostatku ljudskog faktora zadržala je sve karakteristike veličanstvene netaknute divljine, rijetko viđene u ostalom dijelu Evrope. Zbog zahtjevnosti rute, pauze za ručak organizuju se na pola putovanja, gdje gosti uz ručak i relaksaciju

prikupljaju snagu za nastavak spusta prema cilju u Strugama. U proširenoj ponudi moguće je organizovati dnevne i višednevne izlete, jahanje, biciklizam, ribolov, kampiranje... Cjenovnik U cijenu su uključeni prijevoz ljudi i opreme od mjesta susreta (željeznička stanica Čapljina ili gradska plaža Jaz) do startne tačke izleta, najam opreme (kanui, vesla, sigurnosni pojasevi, vodonepropusne torbe), pratnja jednog ili više vodiča - skippera (ovisno o veličini grupe), te ručak i piće.

KONTAKT: Udruga “Tajna prirode” Tel.: +387 63 350 534 (Stanko) mail: stanko.zlopasa@hotmail.com www.adventure-trebizat.com

Nova ponuda koja će vas oduševiti Pored dosadašnjih izleta kanu safarija u dužinama 8 i 12 kilometara, od ove sezone u ponudi Udruge “Tajna prirode” su i biciklističke i šetačke ture, offroad vožnja kao i kombinacija navedenog. Turisti će posjećivati zanimljive mikrolokacije, a bit će ponuđeni i višednevni aranžmani. No, ima nešto što Udruga “Tajna prirode” priprema kao posebnu atrakciju zajedno s partnerima. To je višednevni avanturizam duž Trebižata, te za najzagriženije avanturiste cjelodnevni spust od 18 kilometara sa startnom pozicijom na slapovima Kravice! 91


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SUMMER ADVENTURE ON

Trebižat River

IF IT OCCURS TO YOU TO SWIM OR SWING ON A LIANA AND JUMP INTO THE RIVER, THE KIND HOSTS WILL FIND THE MOST SUITABLE PLACE AND DO EVERYTHING THEY CAN TO MAKE SURE THE MEMORY OF THE ADVENTURE BECOMES YOUR FONDEST SUMMERTIME MEMORY CONTACT: Association “Tajna prirode” Tel.: +387 63 350 534 (Stanko) mail: stanko.zlopasa@hotmail.com, www.adventure-trebizat.com

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rom its source in Peć-Mlini to its confluence with the Neretva River, Hercegovina’s Trebižat is 51 kilometers long. It is an underground river and the only river in Europe that repeatedly disappears into the ground only to resurface again, as many as nine times. This winding river with nine names, with pure and clear water and easy rapids, will be best experienced on a canoeing safari, an interesting tourist attraction organized by Čapljina based association called “Tajna prirode” (Nature’s Secret).

WILDLIFE WONDER At the outset of this incredible journey, the river is slow-moving and peaceful. As you get closer to the end, it becomes fast-flowing and exciting. During summer months, the water temperature is at about 20 degrees Celsius, which makes it ideal for people sensitive to temperature variations. There is almost no age limit for participation in the safari, which makes it suitable for those looking for an adrenalin rush, just as it is for those looking for an opportunity to relax and become one with nature. During the safari you will get to see many species of fish and birds, and enjoy lovely waterfalls which perfectly complement the setting. With the assistance of an experienced guide, guests quickly master the skill of paddling and steering the canoe

Price List The price includes transportation of participants and equipment from the rendezvous point (Čapljina Train Station or “Jaz” town beach) to the starting point, equipment rental (canoes, paddles, safety vests, water-proof bags), one or more guides – skippers (depending on the size of the group), and lunch and beverages.

and learn what to do during more demanding parts of the adventure. If it occurs to you that you want to swim or swing on a liana and jump into the river, the kind hosts will find the most suitable place and do everything they can to make sure the memory of the adventure becomes your fondest summertime memory.

The second 12 kilometer long route, starting in Božjak, is somewhat more demanding. It can take between five and six hours to complete. At the beginning of the route the river flows in a single stream, where it maintained its genuine magnificence of pristine, unspoiled nature, hard to find elsewhere in Europe.

The perfect combination of relaxing nature and sensational river cascades makes this trip ideal for different social events such as teambuilding. Adventure seekers should certainly try Robinson Canoeing adventure, which takes several days.

Due to complexity of the route, lunch break is organized halfway through the adventure to allow the participants to relax and regain the strength to complete their adventure toward the end of the route in Struge.

Each canoe is designed for two persons. The equipment includes paddles, water-proof bags and vests. For best experience, you should wear something comfortable, such as shorts or a bathing suit and sandals or sports footwear. It is also a good idea to bring along a change of clothes, a bottle of water, a pair of sunglasses, sunscreen, and of course, a camera.

Additional activities may also be arranged, such as short day trips and longer trips that take several days, horseback riding, cycling, fishing and camping.

The guests have two routes to choose from Matica – Trebižat or Božjak – Studenci.

ADRENALIN RUSH AND TOP CUISINE The first route that starts in Matica is eight kilometers long. On average, it takes between two and a half to four hours to complete. At this part, the river is divided into several separate streams, each with its own exciting rapids and waterfalls which leave a lasting impression even on the most experienced paddlers. The duration of the route will depend on the number and duration of pauses guests take to swim or engage in other activities. Guests can also choose from several different traditional dishes prepared by experienced culinary masters. It is up to the guests to decide if they want to break for lunch in the middle of their canoeing adventure, or wait until it is over before they stop to eat.

Delightful New Offer Apart from the safari canoe adventures along 8 and 12 kilometer long routes, this year “Tajna prirode” Association’s offer includes cycling and hiking tours, off-road rides and a combination of these activities. Tourists will get to explore interesting micro locations, and multi-day packages will also be offered. But, there is a particularly attractive new offer that Tajna prirode” Association and its partners have in store for visitors. It is a multi-day adventure tour along the Trebižat River, and a full day 18-kilometer long white-water rafting tour for thrill-seekers that runs from the Kravice Waterfalls. 93


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Trebinje 260 dana sunca

GRAD S 88 NACIONALNIH SPOMENIKA TOLIKO JE LIJEP DA SU SLIKARI JEDNOM PRILIKOM ZAKLJUČILI DA GA JE JOŠ SAMO POTREBNO URAMITI FOTO: Turistička organizacija grada Trebinja

KONTAKT: Turistička organizacija Republike Srpske, Bana Milosavljevića 8, 78000, Banja Luka, E-mail: tors@teol.net, Web: www.turizamrs.org @visitsrpska, @VisitSrpska 94


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rebinje je smješteno u dolini rijeke Trebišnjice, na tromeđi BiH, Crne Gore i Hrvatske, ubrajajući se u najljepše destinacije Bosne i Hercegovine u kojoj predstavlja njen najjužniji grad.

KAFA ISPOD STOLJETNIH PLATANA Ko se sjeća kako su prije tridesetak godina izgledale lijepe hercegovačke čaršije, oduševit će se kada dođe ovdje vidjevši da je Trebinje uspjelo sačuvati duh starih vremena. Na malom prostoru, s daškom mediterana, na različitim stranama vidite intenzitet društvenih veza. Ljudi u prolazu ćaskaju neobavezno jedni s drugima, obližnje kafeterije žive svoj život baš kao i obližnja mala otvorena zelena pijaca na kojoj trgovci i kupci razmjenjuju svoje priče. Trebinje ima i jedinstvenu baštu ispod stoljetnih platana u koju se masovno svraća u ljetnom periodu.

No, pored slatkoće koju mogu imati samo stari i manji gradovi, Trebinje, koje na dvoje dijeli ponornica Trebišnjica, krasi i obilje značajnih znamenitosti. Hodajući kroz grad neminovno je proći kroz njegov Stari grad koji nosi orijentalna, austro-ugarska te obilježja socijalnog realizma. Nedaleko od glavne kapije Starog grada nalazi se Osman-pašina džamija, zadužbina Osman-paše Resulbegovića, koji je kao prateće objekte džamije dao sagraditi mekteb i medresu, prve prosvjetne ustanove u Trebinju.

ne postavke i naslijeđe muzeja. Jovan Dučić je sahranjen u crkvi Blagovještenja, Hercegovačkoj Gračanici, koja se nalazi na brdu Crkvina odakle se pruža prelijep pogled na grad.

HISTORIJSKO OKRUŽENJE

I okolina Trebinja otkriva renomirana zdanja, poput poznatih srednjovjekovnih hrišćanskih duhovnih mjesta. To su manastir Svetog Petra i Pavla u Petrovom polju o kojem brinu monahinje, manastir Zavala posvećen Vavedenju Presvete Bogorodice smješten na rubu Popovog polja, manastir Duži, čija je crkva posvećena Pokrovu Presvete Bogorodice, te manastir Tvrdoš sa sjedištem Zahumsko-Hercegovačke i Primorske eparhije.

Top turistička atrakcija Trebinja svakako je i Muzej Hercegovine, koji je osnovan 1952. godine zahvaljujući ideji najpoznatijeg Trebinjca, pjesnika i diplomate, Jovana Dučića, čija se zbirka s vrijednim umjetničkim eksponatima, između ostalih, ubraja u stal-

Na listi najstarijih trebinjskih građevina važno mjesto pripada Arslanagića mostu, zadužbini Mehmed-paše Sokolovića, blizu kojeg je podignuta crkvica kod koje je sahranjen trebinjski župan Vlastelin Grd, koji leži, kako se govori, pod najstarijim poznatim stećkom u BiH.

Dolaskom u Trebinje, osim što ćete se upoznati s historijom i kulturom jednog od najznačajnijih gradova BiH, otkrit ćete i nova mjesta – izletišta nadomak grada kao što su Lastva, Jazina, Ubla i Studenac, te doživjeti raskoš inspirativne prirode juga. 95


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Trebinje 260 Sunny Days

A TOWN THAT BOASTS 88 NATIONAL MONUMENTS IS SO STUNNING THAT ON ONE OCCASION PAINTERS CAME TO A CONCLUSION THAT IT JUST NEEDS TO BE PUT IN A PICTURE FRAME FOTO: Tourist organization of Trebinje

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T

rebinje is situated in the Trebišnjica River valley, at a tripoint of B&H, Montenegro and Croatia. It is one of the most beautiful destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina and its southernmost town.

COFFEE UNDER THE SHADE OF CENTENNIAL PLATANE TREES Those who remember how Herzegovina’s wonderful old town areas looked like 30 years ago will be overjoyed when they come for a visit and realize that Trebinje has managed to hold onto the spirit of old times. In a small area, with a touch of the Mediterranean, in different parts of town you get to see how intense social ties are. Passers-by casually chit chat with each other, nearby cafés live their life and so does the open-air farmer’s market where tradesmen and customers exchange their stories. Trebinje also features a unique ter-


race under the shade of centennial platane trees that crowds frequent during the summer season. But, apart from the sweet charm typical of old and small towns, Trebinje, which is divided in half by the subterranean river Trebišnjica, is adorned with a number of important landmarks. As you stroll around Trebinje, you are going to pass through the Old Quarter bearing Oriental and Austro-Hungarian architectural elements as well as the characteristics of Social Realism. Not far from the Old Quarter’s main gate Osman Pasha Mosque is located; it is the endowment of Osman Pasha Resulbegović upon whose order a maqtab (Muslim primary school) and a madrassa (Muslim secondary school), the first educational institutions in

Trebinje, were built next to the mosque as ancillary buildings.

HISTORIC AMBIANCE A top tourist attraction in Trebinje is the Museum of Herzegovina, which was founded back in 1952 owing to the idea of Jovan Dučić, the most renowned Trebinje-born poet and diplomat. A valuable art collection featuring his work is, among other works of art, on permanent display at the museum and represents its legacy. Jovan Dučić was buried in the Church of the Holy Annunciation, inside Herzegovinian Gračanica, erected on the Crkvina hill above Trebinje which offers beautiful views of Trebinje. High on the list of the oldest buildings in Trebinje is Arslanagića Bridge, the endowment of Mehmed Pasha Sokolović, and close by there is a church next to which Squire Grd, governor of Trebinje, had been buried; some say that his remains lie under the most famous known medieval tombstone in B&H. In the vicinity of Trebinje there are other renowned edifices to be explored too, such as the far-famed medieval Orthodox Christian places of worship. They include the Monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul in Petrovo Field which is run by nuns, Zavala Monastery dedicated to the Presenta-

tion of the Blessed Virgin Mary situated on the edge of Popovo Field, Duži Monastery whose church is dedicated to the Protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and Tvrdoš Monastery, the seat of the Zahum-Herzegovina and Primorje Eparchy. By coming to Trebinje, you will not only familiarize yourself with the history and culture of one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most important towns, but also discover new places – picnic spots such as Lastva, Jazina, Ubla and Studenac, and feel how abundantly inspirational the spirit of the south is.

CONTACT: Tourist organization Republic of Srpska Bana Milosavljevića 8 78000 Banja Luka E-mail: tors@teol.net Web: www.turizamrs.org @visitsrpska @VisitSrpska 97


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

VRIJEME JE

za Unu!

NE PROPUSTITE DOŽIVJETI MAGIJU PRIRODE I ATMOSFERU VELIKIH MANIFESTACIJA NACIONALNOG PARKA ''UNA''

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acionalni park ''Una'' je poput prirodne legende, odmarališta iz snova. Prirodni dragulj smješten je na krajnjem zapadnom dijelu Bosne i Hercegovine, u Bihaću, predstavljajući u ovom dijelu Evrope jedinstvenu prirodnu cjelinu ukrašenu utvrdama, mlinovima i sakralnim objektima. Nacionalni park ''Una'' prostire se dolinom gornjeg toka rijeke Une kao i oko kanjona rijeke Unac, desne pritoke Une, sve do rječice Krke na zapadu. Iako je rijeka Una najveća prirodna vrijednost parka po kojoj je i nazvan, zajedno s druga dva riječna bisera stapa se u neponovljiv spoj

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PROGRAM MANIFESTACIJE 16. Rotary voz Kada: 30.06.2018. Putujte smaragdnom dolinom rijeke Une u susret veličanstvenim prizorima, prirodnim ljepotama i mnogim drugim iznenađenjima koja vas očekuju u avanturi internacionalnim turističkim Rotary vozom, koji kreće sa željezničke stanice u Bihaću. Cijena cjelodnevnog aranžmana iznosi 100 KM, odnosno 52 EUR-a.

46. Una regata 2018. Kada: od 25. do 28. jula 2018. Internacionalna turistička manifestacija Una regata izrasla je u nevjerovatnu atrakciju BiH mameći iz godine u godinu sve veći broj posjetilaca. Sport na vodi, muzika, dobra hrana, prijatni domaćini..., samo su neki od razloga zašto je to tako. Kotizacija za učešće iznosi 40 KM, no učesnici koji nemaju namjeru ploviti cijelu regatu mogu birati sljedeće etape: Martin Brod - Štrbački buk (15 KM), Štrbački buk - Bihać (20 KM) i Bihać - Bosanska Krupa (15 KM). Za vrijeme Una regate u Bihaću će 27. jula koncert održati Marija Šerifović, a Hari Mata Hari u Bosanskoj Krupi na završnici regate - 28. jula.

1. Brdska utrka Kada: 23.09.2018.

raznolikog i očuvanog prirodnog krajolika osebujne ljepote i bogate kulturno-historijske baštine. Una je najvećim dijelom kaskadna rijeka. Njenoj posebnosti doprinose također sedrene barijere koje stvaraju slapove, riječne otoke, kaskade i bukove. Slapovi različitih oblika i veličina doimaju se privlačnim svakom posjetitelju parka, nadahnjuju umjetnike, a zanimljivi su i naučnicima. Otvaranjem ljetne sezone NP ''Una'' ponovo postaje mjesto atraktivnih sadržaja od kojih su neki, s punim pravom, već odavno poprimili međunarodno obilježje.

S prvom Brdskom utrkom Nacionalni park ''Una'' iskoračio je u domen atletskih sportskih događaja. Za prvu godinu organizacije ovog takmičenja odlučeno je da se utrka odvija kroz sjevernu zonu parka u dužini od 13,5 kilometara. Takmičari, čije će se vrijeme mjeriti elektronski, trčat će šumskim putem i stazama kroz pretežno šumski krajolik od ulaza br. 1 Gorjevac do najvišeg vodopada u NP ''Una'' i na rijeci Uni Štrbačkog buka. Cijena startnine iznosi 30 KM/16 EUR-a za uplate do 31.07.; 40 KM/21 EUR od 01.08.; za grupne prijave od 10 i više trkača odobrava se popust od 20%. Šesnaest najboljih trkača i trkačica u različitim kategorijama bit će dodijeljene novčane nagrade u rasponu od 50 do 500 KM.

KONTAKT: Nacionalni park ''Una'' Tel.: +387 37 221 528 Mail: info@nationalpark-una.ba Adresa: Bosanska 1, 77 000 Bihać www.nationalpark-una.ba 99


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

IT IS TIME

for Una! DO NOT MISS OUT ON THE CHANCE TO EXPERIENCE NATURE’S MAGIC AND THE ATMOSPHERE OF MAJOR EVENTS AT “UNA” NATIONAL PARK

T

he “Una” National Park is like a natural legend, a dream holiday retreat. This natural jewel is situated on the far north of Bosnia and Herzegovina, in Bihać, and is a one-of-a-kind natural area in this part of Europe dotted with fortifications, mills and places of worship. The “Una” National Park stretches along the valley of the upper

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stream of the Una River as well as around the Uvac River canyon, a right tributary of the Una River, all the way to a little river called Krka in the west. Even though the Una River is the most valuable feature of the park named after it, together with the other two river pearls it is a remarkable blend of diverse and well-preserved natural land-


scape of an outstanding natural beauty and a rich cultural and historic heritage. The Una River is predominantly a cascade river. Adding to its beauty, tuff barriers create falls, river islands, cascades and waterfalls. Falls varying in shape and size appeal to any visitor of the park, inspire artists, while scientists find them interesting. The opening of the summer season again makes the “Una” National park a place which treats its visitors to a variety of attractive events, some of which have long since become international and rightly so.

The “Una” National Park is like a natural legend, a dream holiday PROGRAMME retreat. This natural jewel is situated16th on the far north of Bosnia and Rotary Train Herzegovina, in Bihać, and is a oneWhen: 30th June 2018 of-a-kind natural area in this part of Europe dotted with fortifications, mills and placesthe of worship. Tour around emerald valley of the Una River to see stunning scenery, wonderful natural landscapes and many other surprises that The “Una” National Park stretcawait you in an adventurous tourist Rotary Train ride; the train leaves hes along the valley of the upper from the train station in Bihać. An all-day package costs BAM 100,00 stream of the Una River as well as or EUR 52 per person. . around the Uvac River canyon, a right tributary of the Una River, all Regatta 2018 Krka the46th way Una to a little river called in the west. Even though the Una When: from 25th to 28th July 2018 River is the most valuable feature of the park named after it, together The International Tourist Unait Regatta has grown into an incredibly atwith the other two river pearls is tractive event in B&H attracting a remarkable blend of diverse and an increasing number of visitors year after year. Water sports,landscape music, tasty well-preserved natural of food, and friendly hosts are just some the reasons why this is so.and Thea participation fee is BAM 40,00, but anof outstanding natural beauty those whoand do not wish heritage. to partake in the entire Una Regatta can choose to rich cultural historic go rafting in stages. The stages are as follows: the Martin Brod-Štrbački The Una River is predominantly a buk stage (BAM 15,00), the Štrbački buk-Bihać stage (BAM 20,00), and cascade river. Adding toKrupa its beauthe Bihać-Bosanska stage (BAM 15,00). During the Una Regatta, ty, Marija tuff barriers create riverin a concert in Bihać on 27th July, while Šerifović will falls, perform islands, cascades andgive waterfalls. Hari Mata Hari will a concert in Bosanska krupa at the closing of the Falls varying in28th shape and size apperegatta – on July. al to any visitor of the park, inspire artists, while scientists find them 1st Mountain Running Race interesting. When: 23rd September 2018 The opening of the summer season again makes the “Una” National With the first Mountain Running park a place which treats its visitorsRace, the “Una” National Park has venintoofathletic sports events. It was decided that the first 13,5-kiloto atured variety attractive events, meter race that besince organized some of which havewill long beco-will take place in the northern part of park. Competitors, whose methe international and rightly so. time spent running will be tracked electronically, will run through forest tracks and paths mostly going through forested terrain stretching from Entrance No. 1 called Gorjevac to the highest waterfall in the “Una” National Park and on the Una River—Štrbački buk. The entry fee is BAM 30/EUR 16 if paid prior to 31st July, and BAM 40/EUR 21 if paid after 1st August; there is a 20% discount for groups of 10 or more runners that register together. The top-15 fastest male and female runners in different categories will receive cash prizes ranging from BAM 50 to BAM 500.

CONTACT: “Una” National Park Telephone: +387 37 221 528 E-mail: info.@nationalpark-una.ba Adresa:1 Bosanska Street, 77 000 Bihać www.nationalpark-una.ba 101


FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

ADNAN BUBALO, FOTOGRAF

ČOVJEK KOJI RAZUMIJE GOVOR PRIRODE On nije samo pasionirani fotograf. Takav je i kao putnik, ali i planinar, što je rezultiralo odličnim spojem njegovog dara i fantastičnih prizora koji su mamili oko njegove kamere. Iako je karijeru započeo kao ratni fotograf, nedugo poslije priroda ga je, s pravim razlogom, u potpunosti osvojila. Mnogo slika BiH, a samo u 2016. i 2017. posjetio je i 16 evropskih zemalja krećući se od Turske i Grčke do sjevera Norveške. Ljepotu i jedinstvenost njegovih foto zapisa koji posmatrače uvode u neki drugi svijet odlučili su prenijeti brojni portali i časopisi među kojima su najpoznatiji National Geographic Traveler (Španija), National Geographic USA, Digital photographer UK, DiIgital SLR photography magazine, The Weather Channel i The Huffington Post.

ADNAN BUBALO, PHOTOGRAPHER

A MAN WHO UNDERSTANDS WHAT NATURE SAYS He is not just a passionate photographer. He is a passionate traveler, but also a passionate hiker, which resulted in an amazing blend of talent and fantastic sceneries that captured the interest of his camera. Even though he started off his career as a war photographer, natural landscapes completely swept him off his feet before long, and rightfully so. He takes a lot of photographs of B&H, and in 2016 and 2017 alone he visited 16 European countries en route from Turkey and Greece to Northern Norway. Many websites and magazines, including the most renowned ones such as National Geographic Traveler (Spain), National Geographic (USA), Digital photographer (UK), DiIgital SLR photography magazine, The Weather Channel and The Huffington Post, decided to publish his wonderful and exceptional photos which take the beholder to an entirely different world.

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FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

FOTO / PHOTO BY ADNAN BUBALO / DIVLJI KONJI / WILD HORSES, KRUZI, LIVNO



FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

FOTO /PHOTO BY ADNAN BUBALO / NIŠIĆKA VISORAVAN / THE PLATEAU OF NIŠIĆI



FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

FOTO /PHOTO BY ADNAN BUBALO / MEDVJED NA BRDU IZNAD RAMSKOG JEZERA / BEAR ON A HILL ABOVE THE RAMA LAKE



FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

FOTO / PHOTO BY ADNAN BUBALO / KOLIBE PORED PROKOÅ KOG JEZERA / HUTS NEXT TO PROKOSKO LAKE



BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

PLANTAŽA BLAGAJ

NOVI RAJ za turiste Plantaža voća porodice Badžak u Blagaju postala je važna turistička atrakcija brojnim gostima tokom njihove posjete jugu zemlje

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orodična firma Jaffa-Komerc d.o.o. u Blagaju osnovana je skoro prije trideset godina. Danas to nije samo ozbiljna firma s velikom plantažom voća izgrađenom na 80 hektara sa čak 105.000 stabala voća, 200 kooperanata širom Hercegovine, nego i turistička atrakcija pored koje se svakodnevno zaustavljaju autobusi stranih gostiju nošeni željom da prošetaju lijepo uređenim prostranstvom i uberu ukusne raznolike darove prirode. No, osim sa znatiželjnim gostima koji ovdje provode ugodne trenutke, Jaffa-Komerc sarađuje također sa srednjim poljoprivrednim školama i poljoprivrednim fakultetima nudeći mogućnost da na oglednim poljima njihovi studenti rade diplomske ili magistarske radove, te đaci stiču praktična iskustva.

U vrtu darova prirode Godine nesebičnog rada i dobrih ideja učinile su da lokalni biznis porodice Badžak preraste u firmu, koja će biti na širem tržištu prepoznatljiva po kvaliteti svojih proizvoda, orijentiranosti ka željama kupaca, odgovornosti prema poslu i odličnim rezultatima ukupnog rada. Posebno zahvaljujući uspostavljanju velike kooperantske strukture u cijeloj Hercegovini njihov razvoj doprinio je ekonomskom razvoju i održivosti poljoprivrede ovog kraja, dok je sada u planu izgradnja strukture za proizvodnju domaćih proizvoda od voća i povrća po tradicionalnoj hercegovačkoj recepturi. U fokusu su žene iz ruralnih sredina, a firma Jaffa-Komerc

UPOZNAJ JAFFU Turistički paket uključuje prijem i predstavljanje lokaliteta Blagaja i firme Jaffa-Komerc. Zatim se vozićem ulazi u plantažu gdje se pružaju informacije o pojedinim vrstama voća i njihovim specifičnostima. Nakon toga učesnici imaju mogućnost branja voća koje je trenutno u fazi zrenja. Trajanje: ca. 45 minuta.

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STRUČNA JAFFA POSJETA PREMA VOĆNIM KULTURAMA

bi vršila distribuciju ovih proizvoda pod svojim brendom. Trešnje, grožđe, jabuke, nektarine, breskve, šljive, nar, staze koje vode do njih, pored puteljaka i poneki plodovi koji su preduhitrili ljudsku ruku i sami se otkotrljali s grane, nezabo-

brojno povrće poput ranog krompira i mahune, a svako ko voli prirodu, ko se oduvijek pitao kako je organizovana poljoprivredna proizvodnja, koje vrste voća su najukusnije i šta se sve tradicionalno pravi od svježih plodova, ovdje je na pravom mjestu. ‘’Napravili smo idealan spoj iskustva u poljoprivredi i ugođaja u prirodi’’, kaže direktor Nedim Badžak. Uposlenici firme govore engleski, njemački, ruski i makedonski jezik, što olakšava svakodnevnu komunikaciju s gostima plantaže kao i inostranim poslovnim partnerima.

ravni su motivi brojnim turistima iz različitih zemalja. Iako porodica Badžak nije planirala od svoje plantaže napraviti turističku atrakciju, taj dio posla sticajem okolnosti sam po sebi se nametnuo. Turisti na putu prema čuvenoj Blagajskoj tekiji odjednom su se počeli zaustavljati i ulaziti u voćnjake iz radoznalosti. Tada je porodica Badžak odlučila napraviti svoju ljetnu baštu u kojoj će se služiti napitci iz vlastite proizvodnje. Pokazalo se to fantastičnim potezom, te je uslijedilo i osmišljavanje turističkih paketa koji su veoma brzo postali popularni, jer malo ko je mogao odoljeti opuštajućoj vožnji u bijelom voziću kao iz bajki, upoznavanju slatkih darova prirode i punjenju svoje korpice ukusnim voćem.

Uspješna proizvodnja Osim voća, na plantaži firme Jaffa-Komerc zasađeno je također

Ponuda uključuje prijem i predstavljanje lokaliteta Blagaja i firme Jaffa-Komerc. Nakon uvodnog dijela ulazi se u proizvodne pogone, te se učesnici informišu o tehnologiji hlađenja, sortiranja i pakovanja. Ovisno o odabranim kulturama, Jaffa vozom se ulazi na plantažu gdje na licu mjesta učesnici dobivaju informacije o sortama, načinu sadnje, rezidbi, vegetaciji… Slijedi branje voća za trenutnu konzumaciju. Trajanje ca. 1.30 - 2 h. carstvo koje im je pružilo sigurnu egzistenciju i donijelo veliko duševno zadovoljstvo. Veliki podstrek za sve nove podvige bit će im zasigurno i priznanja koja je firma Jaffa-Komerc dobila, između ostalog, Privrednici FBiH 2008., Zlatna trešnja za breskvu, jabuku, mladi krompir i papriku te Zlatna plaketa za domaćina sajma Dani Trešnje 2009.

‘’Zadovoljne kupce imamo širom regiona, ali i Evropske unije, Rusije i Jordana’’, dodaje. A da bi sve funkcionisalo u najboljem redu brine se 35 stalnih uposlenika Jaffa-Komerca, dok se tokom sezone dnevno angažuje i po 100 saradnika. ‘’Stalno ulažemo u edukaciju uposlenika kao i promociju zdravih voćnih i proizvoda od povrća. Blizu plantaže smješten je rasadnik voća, a imamo također rashladne kapacitete i plastenike. Uspješna proizvodnja svih ovih godina omogućila nam je da pružamo savjetodavne usluge pri izboru sadnica, podizanju voćnjaka kao i kupovini najsavremenije opreme za voćarstvo i vinogradarstvo. Drago mi je vidjeti da se ljudi za ove oblasti u novije vrijeme sve više i više zanimaju.’’ Porodica Badžak maštovito i pronicljivo iskoristila je sve blagodati hercegovačkog kraja gradeći svoje

MALI JAFFA ISTRAŽIVAČI Ponuda uključuje prijem, predstavljanje lokaliteta Blagaja i firme Jaffa-Komerc na djeci prilagođen način. Nakon uvodnog dijela ulazi se Jaffa vozom na plantažu, djeca se tada informišu o pojedinim kulturama i posjećuju vozni park poljoprivrednih mašina. Slijedi kviz Da li ste znali… i branje voća u fazi zrenja. Trajanje: ca. 1.30 h.

KONTAKT

Adresa: JAFFA-KOMERC Blagaj b.b., 88201 Mostar Tel/Fax:+387 36 572 333 Mob: +387 61 271 521 nedim.badzak@jaffakomerc.com 113


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

PLANTATION IN BLAGAJ

NEW HEAVEN for Tourists THE BADŽAK FAMILY’S FRUIT PLANTATION IN BLAGAJ HAS BECOME AN IMPORTANT TOURIST ATTRACTION FOR MANY VISITORS WHEN THEY COME TO VISIT THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE COUNTRY

CONTACT:

Address: JAFFA-KOMERC Blagaj b.b., 88201 Mostar Bosna and Herzegovina Tel/Fax:+387 36 572 333 Mob: +387 61 271 521 nedim.badzak@jaffakomerc.com 114

Jaffa-Komerc ltd. is a family-owned business established more than thirty years ago. Today it is not just a serious business with a large fruit plantation covering an area of 80 hectares with as many as 105000 fruit trees and 200 subcontractors from all across Herzegovina, but also a tourist attraction where buses with foreign visitors pull over on a daily basis because visitors want to go for a nice walk around the plantation and pick a wide variety of tasty fruits and berries that nature has blessed this area with. But, apart from hosting curious guests who have a wonderful time here, Jaffa-Komerc also cooperates with secondary schools of agriculture and faculties of agriculture and makes it possible for students to use demonstration plots for the needs of their graduation and master’s theses, and for pupils to gain practical experience.

In the Garden of Gifts of Nature Years of selfless work and good ideas have made it possible for the

Badžak family’s local business to grow into a company that is recognized in the wider market for the quality of its products, customer-oriented approach, dedication to work and excellent overall results. Especially due to the establishment of a large subcontractor network throughout Herzegovina, the company’s development has boosted the economic development and sustainability of agricultural businesses in this area, and now the plan is to establish a network of local producers who make fruit and vegetable products using traditional Herzegovinian recipes. The focus would be placed

GET TO KNOW JAFFA This tourist package includes welcoming visitors and giving them some information about Blagaj and Jaffa-Komerc. Visitors then go on a mini train tour around the plantation to find out more about a large variety of fruits and their unique characteristics. Then they can pick ripening fruit if they want to. Duration: cca. 45 minutes


daily to help them out during the planting and harvesting season.

on women from rural areas, and Jaffa-Komerc would distribute these products under its brand name. Cherries, grapes, apples, nectarines, peaches, plums, pomegranates, the paths leading up to them, an apple or plum here and there along the pathway that have dropped from trees before fruit pickers could harvest them, are the sights that many a tourist from different countries finds unforgettable. Even though the Badžaks did not plan to turn their plantation into a tourist attraction, that part of the business just happened on its own. On their way to the famous Blagaj Tekke, tourists suddenly started pulling over and getting into the orchards out of curiosity. It was then that the Badžaks decided to make their outdoor cafe to serve beverages they themselves were producing. It turned out to be a fantastic move, and soon enough they began designing tourist packages which became popular rather quickly, because hardly anyone could say no to a relaxing ride in a fairy tale-like little white train, finding out more about the sweet gifts of nature and filling up their baskets with delicious fruit.

Successful Production Apart from fruit, a wide range of vegetables, such as early potatoes and green beans are also planted on the Jaffa-Komerc plantation, and for anyone who loves nature, anyone who has always been wondering how agricultural production is organized, what the most delicious types of fruit

EXPERT JAFFA VISIT COVERING FRUIT This tourist package includes welcoming visitors and giving them some information about Blagaj and Jaffa-Komerc. After the introductory part, visitors enter the production facilities to find out more about the cooling, sorting out and packaging technology. Depending on the fruits they choose, visitors board the Jaffa Train to explore the plantation and discover more about the varieties of fruits and vegetables, the way they are planted and cut, about the vegetation… And then they pick and taste fruits. Duration: cca. 1.5 – 2 hours are and what traditional products are made using fresh fruit, this is the place to come.

“We invest in educating our employees and promoting healthy fruit and vegetable products all the time. Close to the plantation, there’s a fruit nursery, and we also have cooling systems and greenhouses. Successful production over the years has allowed us to offer our clients advice on selecting seedlings, setting up orchards and buying cutting-edge equipment for fruit and wine production. I’m happy to see that people have recently become increasingly interested in these activities.” The Badžaks have been very creative and wise in putting to use all the riches Herzegovina is blessed with in building an empire to provide for themselves which gives them great peace of mind and comfort. The awards and recognitions Jaffa-Komerc has received, such as the 2008 FB&H Businessmen Award, the Golden Cherry Award for peaches, apples, young potatoes and peppers, and the Gold Plaque which was presented to the company for hosting the 2009 Cherry Days event, will surely motivate the Badžaks to embark on new business ventures.

“We’ve made an ideal combination of gaining a little agricultural experience and enjoying nature,” says Nedim Badžak, company manager. Company employees speak English, German, Russian and Macedonian, which facilitates day-to-day communication with guests coming to visit the plantation, as well as with foreign business partners. “We have happy customers from across the region, but also from the European Union, Russia and Jordan,” he adds. Thirty-five people are employed fulltime at Jaffa-Komerc to make sure that everything runs smoothly, and up to 100 seasonal workers are hired

LITTLE JAFFA EXPLORERS This package includes welcoming children and giving them information about Blagaj and Jaffa-Komerc in a child-friendly way. After the introductory part, children hop on the Jaffa Train to tour around the plantation to discover more about different kinds of fruit, and then they visit the plantation’s agricultural machinery storage building. After that, children partake in a quiz called Did you know… and pick ripening fruit. Duration: cca. 1.5 hours 115


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BILJANA NEDIĆ, KOŠARKAŠICA

MOJ SAN JE JAVA

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BILJANA TRENIRA KOŠARKU VEĆ DESET GODINA. U KKI VRBAS JEDINA JE ŽENA, KOJA SE SA SVOJIM SAIGRAČIMA OKITILA VRIJEDNIM MEDALJAMA NA BROJNIM TAKMIČENJIMA. OVO JE NJENA PRIČA

Piše: Elma ZEĆO

“Za mene je košarka bila zabava sve do momenta kada sam zaplakala zbog izgubljene utakmice. Tada sam shvatila da to volim. Svaka osvojena titula s mojim klubom budila je u meni želju za još jednom medaljom. Ta žeđ se teško može utoliti kada se jednom osjeti. Kao da postaneš ovisan. Dođu i momenti kada dosadi. Bude jaka sezona, teške utakmice, puno se putuje, odričeš se nekih privatnih planova, stigne umor, ali već nakon

kratke pauze počneš sanjati loptu i teren”, započinje svoju priču za Furaj.ba Biljana Nedić (30), koja je nedavno sa svojim saigračima iz Košarkaškog kluba invalida Vrbas osvojila po peti put zlatnu medalju regionalne NLB lige. Ponosna je na sve zajedničke igre koje su vodile do nivoa o kojem je teško ko mogao sanjati, jer je pobjedom u preliminarnom dijelu Evropskog takmičenja održanog u Banjoj Luci klub stigao do Final Four takmičenja bez ijedne izgubljene utakmice!

USPJEH NE POZNAJE RAZLIČITOSTI Svi Biljanini saigrači su muškarci, stoga smo je upitali da li se osjeća ravnopravnom na terenu. “Nije lako parirati muškarcima. Deset godina sam u klubu i još uvijek imam problem kada su nam protivnici fizički spremniji. Oni su i konstrukcijom veći, pa se ponekad i ne vidim na terenu. Na početku su

me kako saigrači tako i protivnici štedjeli, ali ne u lošem kontekstu, nego samo da bi me zaštitili. Kako sam napredovala tako se i njihov odnos mijenjao, tako da sada činjenica da sam žena nije ni prednost ni nedostatak. Iz tih razloga je teško definisati ravnopravnost. Smatram da uspjeh ne vidi spolove, rodove, ili bilo koju drugu vrstu različitosti.” Za ovoliko godina igranja košarke na Biljaninim policama nanizala su se brojna priznanja podsjećajući je na to koliko je do sada postigla. “Moj san je java”, govori Biljana u čiji je život sport unio mnoštvo lijepih stvari, nova saznanja, prijateljstva, divne ljude iz različitih zemlja, te nezaboravna putovanja na kojima je upoznavala različite kulture, mentalitete i običaje. “Sport čovjeka uči boljim vrijednostima, pozitivno okupira njegov prostor tako da mu ne preostaje vremena da se bavi nečim lošim. 117


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Sport zahtijeva jaku emociju. Izaziva je i kada ne želiš, izvuče iako je skrivena, i onda se mnogo bolje osjećaš. Dozvoljava da budeš i pobjednik i gubitnik. Pokaže da nije kukavičluk plakati, nego samo dokaz da ti je do nečega stalo. Kroz sport rasteš, sazrijevaš, osamostaljuješ se, razvijaš mnoge sposobnosti i vještine. To je pravo bogatstvo.”

ŽIVOTI KOJI POKREĆU Biljana je rođena s oboljenjem kičmenog stuba zbog čega ne može hodati. Nikada se za to nije previše zanimala, samo je znala da joj neće biti prepreka za osvajanje života. “Invalidnost je moja stvar, privatna stvar poput boje kose, očiju, odjeće koju nosim. To je moje, a sve što je moje ja volim. Ne vidim razlog kako spoticanja tako ni napredovanja uprkos tome. Ako odlučim ići naprijed, neke stvari me mogu usporiti, ali ne i spiječiti. Voljela bih da stvorimo društvo koje invaliditet neće vidjeti kao prepreku, nego će uočiti da negdje nema rampe pored stepenica ili lifta, prijelaza na semaforu, spuštenog pulta, niskih stolova u klubu... To su prepreke.” Pored košarke, njena velika ljubav je novinarstvo. Studij je završila na BLC Banja Luka Collegeu i uživa u pričama koje pokreću ljude. Trenutno piše za eTrafika portal i vodi svoj blog Happybe.net dok se ne steknu uslovi za nešto više. “Inspirišu me nadljudske borbe, skromnost, zahvalnost i spremnost za oprost. Vjerujem da ću se kao novinarka profilisati u dokumentarnom pravcu.” Na kraju nam je otkrila i svoju najveću maštariju: “Dok se spremam za posao jedna mala čupava djevojčica, još uvijek snena, trči mi u zagrljaj i šapuće da ju je tata nagovorio da me dođe poljubiti prije polaska.” 118

BILJANA NEDIĆ, BASKETBALL PLAYER

MY DREAMS ARE

MY REALITY


BILJANA HAS BEEN PLAYING BASKETBALL FOR THE PAST TEN YEARS. SHE IS THE ONLY WOMAN IN THE VRBAS BASKETBALL CLUB WHO HAS WON VALUABLE MEDALS WITH HER TEAM MEMBERS AT NUMEROUS COMPETITIONS. THIS IS HER STORY

Written by: Elma ZEĆO “Basketball was fun for me until the moment I started crying over losing a game. That’s when I realized I loved it. Each title that I won with my club made me want to win another medal. Once you feel this thirst, it’s difficult to quench it. It’s like an addiction. At times you get bored too. When the season is strong, the games are tough, you travel a lot, you deny yourself private plans, you become tired, but after a short break you start dreaming of the ball and the basketball court,” Biljana Nedić (30), who recently won the fifth golden medal in a row in the regional NLB League with her team, starts to tell her story to Furaj.ba magazine.

She is proud of all the games she played in with her team that brought her to the level of game hardly anyone could have dreamed of – by winning the European Championship preliminary round held in Banja Luka, her club reached the Final Four stage of the competition without losing a single game!

SUCCESS KNOWS NO DIFFERENCES All Biljana’s team mates are men, so we asked her if she felt on an equal footing with them on the basketball court.

“It’s not easy to compete with men. I’ve been in the club for ten years and I’m still struggling when our competitors are in better shape than I am. They are much taller and muscular than me, and at times you can’t even see me on the basketball court. At the beginning, both my team mates and opponents spared me, but not in a bad way, they were doing it simply to protect me. As I stepped up my game, their attitude began to shift, and the fact that I’m a woman is now neither an advantage nor a disadvantage. That’s the reason why it’s difficult to define equality. I think success does not differentiate people based on sex, gender or anything else that makes them different.” Over the years, Biljana has collected quite a few trophies and medals which are displayed on her shelves reminding her of how much she has accomplished so far. “My dreams are my reality,” says Biljana. Sport has brought a multitude of beautiful things into her life, new discoveries, friendships, wonderful people from various countries, and unforgettable trips during which she got to know different countries, mentalities and customs. 119


BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

“Sport teaches you some values, it positively occupies your space so you don’t have any time left to do anything bad. Sport requires strong emotions. It evokes those emotions even when you don’t want it to, it forces them out even if they’re hidden inside, and then you feel so much better. It allows you to be a winner and a loser. It shows you that you’re not a coward if you cry, it just proves that you do care about something. Through sport, you grow, mature, become independent, and you develop quite a few abilities and skills. That’s what being rich is about.”

LIVES THAT MOTIVATE PEOPLE

“Being disabled is a personal matter, a private matter such as hair color, eye color, the clothes I wear. It’s mine, and I love everything that’s mine. I see no reason why it would hold me back or help me go ahead in spite of it. If I decide to move forward, some things can slow me down, but they can’t prevent me from moving forward. I’d like us to create a society which won’t look upon disability as an obstacle, which will instead see that an obstacle is when there is no wheelchair ramp next to a flight of stairs or when there are no elevators, dropped curbs at pedestrian crossings, lowered counters, low tables in clubs… those are the obstacles.”

Biljana was born with a spinal cord disorder and she is unable to walk. She has never dwelled on it much, she only knew that it would not be an obstacle for her to conquer life.

Apart from basketball, she is also really keen on journalism. She graduated from BLC Banja Luka College, and she loves the stories that motivate people. She writes for eTrafika portal and runs

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her own blog called Happybe.net while she is waiting for the right opportunity for something more to pop up. “I take inspiration in superhuman struggle, modesty, gratefulness and readiness to forgive. As a journalist, I believe I’ll specialize in writing documentaries.”

In the end, she revealed to us one of her biggest fantasies: “While I’m getting ready for work, a fully-haired little girl, still feeling drowsy, runs into my arms and whispers in my ear that daddy told her to kiss me on my way out.”



PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Doha

Luksuzni grad s pet zvjezdica

SVE ŠTO STE ČULI O OVOJ ZEMLJI NIJE PRETJERANO, JER OVDJE IMA SVEGA U IZOBILJU: NAFTE, GASA, PIJESKA, VISOKIH TEMPERATURA, ZELENIH TRAVNJAKA, LIJEPIH PLAŽA, OGROMNIH TRŽNIH CENTARA, LUKSUZNIH AUTOMOBILA I ELEGANTNIH STANOVNIKA Piše: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

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K

atar je mala kraljevina u Perzijskom zaljevu, skoro pet puta manja od naše male Bosne i Hercegovine, no, s ogromnim rezervama nafte i prirodnog gasa zbog čega ima status najbogatije zemlje na svijetu.

PRIVILEGOVANI ŽIVOT Od 2,6 miliona stanovnika samo njih 12% su državljani Katara i samo oni uživaju u bogatstvu svoje zemlje. Zanimljivo je da se državljanin Katara može postati samo rođenjem u ovoj zemlji i ukoliko su oba roditelja Katarani. Njihove privilegije su nestvarne: imaju besplatne osnovne životne namirnice, kao što su šećer, ulje, brašno, naftu, zdravstvene usluge, besplatnu školarinu, te dobivaju pozamašni početni kapital kada odluče zasnovati porodicu. Zato i ne čudi što slave svoga emira čije slike možete vidjeti čak i na privatnim automobilima. Emir Tamim bin Hamad bin Halifa el-Tani trenutni je i najmlađi lider ove zemlje.

Dolazi iz porodice koja vlada Katarom još od 18. vijeka. U Kataru se primjenjuje šerijatski zakon. Skoro polovina ukupnog broja stanovništva naseljava glavni grad Dohu, za koji kažu da je najsigurniji grad na svijetu i jedna od najbrže rastućih turističkih destinacija. Kako se u Kataru ne plaća porez, više od mi-

Višestruko nagrađivana kompanija Qatar Airways posluje već 20 godina i predstavlja jednu od najbrže rastućih avio kompanija na svijetu. Dobitnik je brojnih priznanja: Najbolja biznis klasa na svijetu, Najbolja avio kompanija na svijetu, Najbolja avio kompanija na Bliskom istoku i Najbolja čekaonica za putnike prve klase. S druge strane, Međunarodni aerodrom Hamad u Dohi rangiran je kao aerodrom s 5 zvjezdica, što ima, inače, samo pet aerodroma u svijetu.


lion stranaca iz cijelog svijeta svoje poslovne baze pozicioniralo je baš u ovoj zemlji, gdje stranci ne mogu biti vlasnici zemlje, ali rješenje za to je pronađeno u nasipanju mora i pravljenju umjetnih otoka. Jedan od najpoznatijih otoka je Perla, naselje u obliku školjke s biserom u sredini, luksuznim apartmanima, šoping centrima, restoranima i marinom u kojoj se ljuljuškaju skupocjene jahte. Kulturni centar Katara nalazi se na plaži s pogledom na centar Dohe. Tokom cijele godine ovdje se održavaju kulturne i zabavne manifestacije. U malenim ulicama, natkrivenim platnenim jedrima koja štite od jakog zaljevskog sunca, nalaze se vile za umjetnike, specijalne škole, galerije, bioskopi, operska kuća i otvoreni amfiteatar s 1.000 mjesta nevjerovatne akustike. A na pješčanoj plaži, dugoj 1,5 kilometara, nude se aktivni sadržaji od kupanja do vožnje pedalinom, kanuom ili kajakom. U centru su i dvije prekrasne džamije. Džamija Katara, s plavim zidnim pločicama, jedna je od najljepših u Dohi. Uz nju su kule neobičnog izgleda, golubarnici napravljeni od gline i cigle, materijala prihvatljivih za okoliš. Zlatna džamija je drugačija. Ona i njena munara potpuno su prekrivene zlatnim pločicama. Pet kilometara dugo šetalište Corniche proteže se duž obale koja okružuje zaljev Doha, od luke, pored čuvenog Muzeja islamske umjetnosti koji je projektovao arhitekta I. M. Pei, te dalje ide obalom zaljeva sve do West Baya. Šetalište ima prekrasan pogled, rekreacijski prostor

sa spravama za vježbanje i mnogo zelenih površina na kojima se uživa u porodičnom druženju, uz svjež morski povjetarac.

SOUQ WAQIF – OTVORENI BAZAR Ovaj otvoreni bazar nalazi se u samom središtu starog dijela grada i predstavlja najveću atrakciju Dohe. Sredinom prolazi dugačka pješačka zona s mnoštvom kafića i restorana u čijoj živopisnoj atmosferi ispijanja kafe i pušenja nargile na kraju dana uživa i lokalno stanovištvo ali i turisti. Pored prodavnica pod vedrim nebom i natkrivenim hodnicima s prodavnicama odjeće, začina, parfema, mirisnih ulja i raznih suvenira, svoje mjesto na Souq Waqifu također su pronašli luksuzni boutique hoteli, tradicionalni restorani i kafei s bogatom ponudom raznih okusa.

godine i ući će u historiju fudbala kao prvi montažni stadion na kojem će se igrati utakmice Svjetskog prvenstva u fudbalu. Ovo prekrasno zdanje bit će izgrađeno od brodskih kontejnera, a nakon prvenstva će se razmontirati i koristiti za gradnju drugih sportskih objekata. Prostor nakon njegovog uklanjanja bit će iskorišten za izgradnju parka.

STADION KOJI ĆE UĆI U HISTORIJU Svjetsko prvenstvo koje će se održati u Kataru 2022. igrat će se na osam stadiona, od čega su četiri u glavnom gradu Dohi. Kako prosječna dnevna temperatura tokom jula i juna iznosi 41 stepen Celzijusa, Katarani su sagradili prvi svjetski klimatizirani stadion na otvorenom – Stadion Al Sadda u Dohi. Ipak, još veća atrakcija bit će Ras Abu Aboud stadion pored Dohe, koji još nije izgrađen, ali će biti gotov za četiri

Furaj.ba putuje po svijetu U Dohu smo putovali u martu 2018. na poziv ureda Qatar Airwaysa iz Sarajeva. Tri dana su bila malo da upoznamo sve što Doha nudi, ali sasvim dovoljna da poželimo da se ponovo vratimo.

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Doha

– Luxury 5-star City

WHATEVER YOU HAVE HEARD ABOUT THIS COUNTRY IS NOT AN EXAGGERATION, BECAUSE THERE IS AN ABUNDANCE OF EVERYTHING HERE: OIL, NATURAL GAS, SAND, HIGH TEMPERATURES, GREEN LAWNS, LARGE SHOPPING MALLS, LUXURIOUS CARS AND ELEGANT INHABITANTS Written by: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

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Q

atar is a small kingdom in the Persian Gulf, nearly five times smaller than our little Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it has enormous oil and natural gas reserves which make it the world’s richest country.

A LIFE OF PRIVILEGE Only 12% of Qatar’s 2,6 million residents are citizens, and only they benefit the country’s wealth. It is interesting that you can become a Qatari national only if you are born here and if both of your parents are Qatari. The privileges they have are incredible: they are entitled to the basic food supplies such as sugar, cooking oil, flour, oil, healthcare, free tuition fees, and they also receive a substantial amount of funds when they decide to start a family. It is no wonder that they praise their emir

and hand his picture even in private cars. Tamim bin Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani is the current and youngest Emir of Qatar. He is a member of the Al Thani royal family that has been ruling Qatar since the 18th century. Sharia law is applied in Qatar. Almost half of the population lives in Doha, the capital which is said to be the world’s safest city and one of the fastest growing tourist destinations. Since there is no taxation in Qatar, more than a million foreigners from all over the world have based their headquarters in this country where foreigners cannot own land, but this issue has been resolved by means of reclaiming land and building artificial islands. One of the most famous islands is The Pearl, an artificial island shaped like a shell of a pearl oyster featuring a pearl at its center, comprising luxurious apartments,

Multi-award Winning Company Qatar Airways has been operating for 20 years and is one of the world’s fastest growing airlines. It has received numerous awards: World’s Best Business Class, World’s Best Airline, Best Airline in the Middle East, and World’s Best First Class Airline Lounge. On the other hand, Hamad International Airport in Doha has been classified as a five-star airport, and, by the way, only five other airports in the world have gained this prestigious accolade.


shopping malls, restaurants and a marina with priceless yachts swaying slightly in the wind. Qatar Cultural Center is situated on the coast overlooking the center of Doha. Cultural and entertainment events are held here throughout the year. Suspended canvas canopies shelter the lanes in which artists’ villas, special schools, cinemas, an opera house and an incredibly acoustic open amphitheater with 1000 seats are located, offering much needed respite from the blazing Gulf sun. A 1,5-kilometer sandy beach provides a range of activities from swimming and pedal boating to canoe and kayak rides. Two stunningly beautiful mosques are situated in the city center. Katara Masjid, with blue wall tiles, is one of the most beautiful mosques in Doha.

Next to it are odd-looking towers, the pigeon towers, which are made of environmentally friendly materials – clay and bricks. The Golden Masjid is different. Both the mosque and its minaret are completely covered with tiny golden chips. The Corniche, a five-kilometer long waterfront promenade, stretches for the entire length of Doha Bay, from the harbor to the Museum of Islamic Art which was designed by I. M. Pei and further along the coast all the way to the West Bay. The promenade offers spectacular vistas of the city, and provides a recreation area equipped with exercise equipment and a green pedestrian space where families can enjoy spending time together breathing in the fresh sea air.

SOUQ WAQIF – OPEN BAZAAR This open bazar is situated in the very heart of the old part of the city and is a major attraction in Doha. A long pedestrian zone running along the middle of the bazaar is lined with lively cafés and restaurants where both locals as well as tourists are able to take in the vibrant ambience as they enjoy drinking coffee and smoking shisha in the evening hours. Apart from open-air market shops and covered passageways stuffed with lots of stores showcasing garments, spices, perfumes, scented oils and all kinds of souvenirs, Souq Waqif is also home to luxurious boutique hotels, traditional restau-

rants and cafés which offer a diverse variety of flavors.

STADIUM WHICH WILL GO DOWN IN HISTORY Qatar is the host country of the 2022 World Cup and will host matches of the tournament across eight stadiums, four of which are located in Doha, the country’s capital. Since the average daytime temperature during June and July is 21 degrees Celsius, Qataris have built the world’s first open-air air-conditioned stadium – Al Sadda Stadium – in Doha. However, an even greater attraction will be the Ras Abu Aboud Stadium in the vicinity of Doha, which has not been built yet, but it will be built in four years and go down in football history as the first pre-fabricated stadium to host matches of the World Football Cup. This wonderful edifice will be made of ship containers, and after the tournament it will be dismantled and used in the construction of other sport facilities. After it is dismantled, a park will be constructed on the site.

Furaj.ba Travels Around the World At the invitation of Qatar Airways’ Sarajevo Office, we travelled to Doha in March 2018. Three days have not been long enough for us to see all the things Doha has to offer, but quite enough for us to wish to visit it again. 125


PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

10 RAZLOGa

zašto posjetiti

u n o m a t s a K u

n o m a t s a k it is v o t s n o 10 reas

KASTAMONU JE KOPNENI GRAD U BLIZINI OBALE CRNOG MORA, 250 KILOMETARA UDALJEN OD ANKARE. SA SVOJOM BOGATOM HISTORIJOM, MORSKOM OBALOM, SKIJAŠKIM CENTROM I NACIONALIM PARKOVIMA SVE VIŠE PRIVLAČI PUTNIKE, SKIJAŠE, AVANTURISTE I VJERNIKE, OVDJE SE SVI OSJEĆAJU SVOJI NA SVOME. Tekst i fotografije: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

KASTAMONU IS A CONTINENTAL CITY NEAR THE BLACK SEA COAST, 250 KILOMETERS AWAY FROM ANKARA. ITS RICH HISTORY, COASTLINE, A SKI RESORT AND NATIONAL PARKS HAVE BEEN ATTRACTING A LOT OF TRAVELERS, SKIERS, ADVENTURE SEEKERS AND PEOPLE OF FAITH. THIS IS WHERE EVERYONE FEELS AT HOME. Text and photos: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

126


1. Godina kulture

2. Museums

4. Tvrđava i sahat-kula

Provincija Kastamonu proglašena je mjestom kulture turkijskog svijeta za 2018. U njoj će se tokom cijele godine održavati kulturne i umjetničke aktivnosti. Dođete li, ko zna, možda ovdje sretnete i nekog “Bali-bega”.

History still writes its stories here. You can hear them as you silently walk through the chambers of the Archeological and Ethnographical Museum in awe of the expertise and skill of the people who lived back then.

Dok uživate u jedinstvenom pogledu na grad sa zidina Kastamonu tvrđave, ili dok pijete čaj i slušate otkucaje sata u restoranu ispod tamošnje Sahat-kule, možda vam neko ispriča legendu o satu, koji je ljutitom naredbom jednog sultana premješten iz Istanbula u Kastamonu. Na ovom mjestu svaka starina ima svoju priču.

3. Džamije i vjerski objekti Kompleks Ismail-bega iz 14. vijeka i Kompleks šejha Šabana svjedoče o vremenu kada su ljudi živjeli i radili za opće dobro. Među brojnim starim džamijama izdvaja se u selu Kasaba Mahmut-begova džamija, drvena džamija, pravo remek-djelo arhitekture.

1 Year of Culture Kastamonu Province has been declared the 2018 Cultural Capital of the Turkic World. Cultural and artistic activities will take place here throughout the year. If you come, who knows, you might even come across “Bali Bey”.

2. Muzeji Historija ovdje i dalje priča svoje priče. Možete ih čuti dok tiho koračate odajama Arheološkog i Etnografskog muzeja diveći se sposobnostima i umijeću ljudi tog vremena.

3. Mosques and Places of Worship Ismail Bey Complex from the 14th century and Shekih Shaban Complex illustrate the time when people lived and worked for the common good. Among numerous old mosques, Mahmut Bey Mosque in Kasaba Village stands out as a wooden mosque, a genuine architectural masterpiece.

4. Fortress and Clock Tower While you are enjoying the unique view of the city from the ramparts of Kastamonu Fortress, or while you are sipping tea and listening to the ticking of the clock at the restaurant beneath Kastamonu Tower Clock, someone might tell you the legend of the clock which was moved from Istanbul to Kastamonu upon the order of an angry sultan. At this place, each antique item has its story. 127


PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

5. Çatak kanjon

7. Ilica Waterfalls

Samo jedan pogled kroz stakleni pod terase u ambis dubok 450 metara ne ostavlja mnogo mjesta za riječi. Çatak kanjon će vas ostaviti bez daha bez obzira da li ste oduševljeni ili prestravljeni. Samo se opustite, udahnite duboko i napravite selfi za pamćenje.

You would not mind getting lost here. Alone, or in the company of someone special. Because anything can happen here. As you walk in the woods, surrounded by all the shades of green you can imagine, you are brought back to reality by the sound of water crashing down from a ten-meter high cliff.

8. Skijalište Iglaz

6. Horma Canyon

5. Çatak Canyon A single glance through the glass floor of the terrace at the 450-meter deep abyss leave little room for words. Çatak Canyon will take your breath away regardless of whether you are thrilled by or terrified of it. Just relax, take a deep breath and snap a memorable selfie!

6. Horma kanjon U Horma kanjonu priroda se posjetiteljima prikazuje u svom najljepšem svjetlu. Ovdje možete ‘zaplesati’ na visećem mostu, drvenom platformom šetati uporedo s rijekom uživajući u njenim zvukovima i dinamičnom toku, te nakon 1,5 km stići do 15 metara visokog vodopada. Potom samo zatvorite oči i dopustite kristalno čistim vodama da vode vašu dušu. 128

In Horma Canyon, the nature revels itself to the visitors in all its glory. Here you can ‘dance’ on the suspension bridge, walk on a wooden platform along the river enjoying the sound of water, and 1,5 kilometers later you reach a 15-meter high waterfall. Then just close your eyes and let the crystal clear water lead your soul.

Vrijeme je da poslije svih ljetnih iskusite i jednu zimsku avanturu u Turskoj. Samo 50 km od Kastamonua nalazi se nacionalni park i skijalište Iglaz, gdje vas snijegom prekriveni obronci i tiha zimska čarolija pozivaju na ludorije. Ukoliko vam dan nije dovoljan, uživanje možete nastaviti i tokom noći na osvijetljenim stazama.

7. Ilica vodopad Ovo je mjesto gdje vam ne bi smetalo da se izgubite. Sami, ili u posebnom društvu. Jer, ovdje je sve moguće. Šetajući šumom, okruženi svim zelenim tonovima koje možete zamisliti, u javu vas vrati zvuk vode koja se obrušava s litice visoke 10 metara.

8. Iglaz Ski Resort It is time for you to experience a winter adventure after all these summer adventures in Turkey. At a distance of only 50 kilometers from Kastamonu, there is a national park and Inglas Ski Resort, and its snow-covered slopes and silent winter wonderland invite you to come for a crazy adventure. If skiing during the days does not suffice, you can continue enjoying skiing on the slopes under the lights at night too.


9. Morska obala

10. Ćeten halva

Ima Kastamonu i 170 kilometara svoje obale koju zapljuskuje Crno more. Dobri hoteli, pješčane plaže i tajanstveni zaljevi garant su kvalitetnog odmora. Samo zapamtite, noći su ovdje toliko zabavne, tople i romantične, pa bi se lako moglo desiti da patite od nedostatka sna. Jer, ovdje jednostavno ne želite spavati.

Vaše putovanje u Kastamonu neće biti kompletno ako ne budete pravili ćeten halvu. Kršni turski momci dozvolit će vam da zajedno s njima ritmičnim pokretima vrtite u krug tijesto iz kojeg će nastati mali slatki zalogaji koji se tope u ustima. Naravno, halvu možete kupiti i kod kuće se sladiti uz kahvu misleći na Kastamonu.

9. Coastline

10. Ćeten Halva

Castamonu also has a 170-kilometer coastline washed by the Black Sea. Good hotels, sandy beaches and mysterious bays guarantee quality vacations. Just remember, nights around here as so entertaining, warm and romantic that you might easily suffer from lack of sleep. Because you simply do not want to sleep around here.

Your visit to Kastamonu will not be complete unless you make ćeten halva. Heavily built Turkish men will allow you to join them in kneading dough in rhythmical circular movements and making sweet little bites that melt in your mouth. You can, of course, buy some halva and treat yourself to a bite of halva while drinking coffee at home and thinking of Kastamonu.

At the invitation of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office in Sarajevo, and sponsored by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Turkey, we paid a visit to Kastamonu in March 2018. Kastamonu has been declared the 2018 Cultural Capital of the Turkic World. 129


KUHINJA / KITCHEN

POČINJE SLADOLEDOMANIJA! Napravite svoj ljetni desert

Sladoled od banane i kikiriki maslaca Sastojci: 3 jaja 140 g šećera 480 ml vrhnja 240 ml mlijeka 100 g kikiriki maslaca 2 zrele banane 30 ml soka od limuna PRIPREMA: Najprije umutiti jaja, potom postepeno dodavati šećer i dalje mutiti sve dok se ne istopi. Na red dolaze šlag krema i mlijeko, koje također treba umutiti. Odvojiti jednu šalicu u posebnu zdjelu, dodati i umutiti kikiriki maslac, a potom sve staviti u postojeću smjesu i dobro promiješati. Zalediti u aparatu za sladoled, ili staviti u zamrzivač. Još blendirati bananu s limunovim sokom, te dodati skoro zamrznutoj smjesi sladoleda, odnosno pomiješati i zamrznuti do kraja.

130

Sladoled od vanilije Sastojci:

500 ml mlijeka 130 g šećera od vanilije 125 g bijelog preljeva 5 žumanaca 1 štapić vanilije PRIPREMA: Skuhati mlijeko. Pjenasto umutiti žumanca i šećer od vanilije. Otopiti preljev u mlijeku. Prepoloviti štapić od vanilije. Dodati ekstrakt vanilije u mlijeko, a onda smjesu mlijeka, šećera i jaja umutiti. Smjesa se ne smije skuhati skloniti je čim se poveže, te brzo ohladiti. Na kraju, staviti u aparat za sladoled, ili zamrzivač.

Sladoled od kokosa Sastojci:

450 ml kokosovog mlijeka 250 ml šlaga 2 žumanca 50 g kokosovog brašna 100 g kokosovog šećera čokolada za posipanje (po želji) PRIPREMA: Kokosovo mlijeko sa svim ostalim sastojcima zagrijati u jednoj posudi na niskoj temperaturi, ne čekati vrenje. Stalno miješati dok tečnost ne postane gušća. Dignuti sa šporeta i ohladiti. Staviti u veliku zdjelu a potom u zamrzivač tri sata. Izvaditi, promiješati mutilicom i ponovo vratiti nazad, te ponoviti postupak za sat ili dva. Ova radnja se može ponavljati, važno je da sladoled postigne željenu konzistenciju. Ko želi dobiti posebno kremastu smjesu, prije zamrzavanja smjesu može umutiti električnom mutilicom. Na kraju, posuti čokoladom.


ICE CREAM CRAZE BEGINS! Make your own summer dessert

Banana and Peanut Butter Ice Cream Ingredients: 3 eggs

Vanilla Ice Cream Ingredients:

140 g sugar

500 ml milk

480 ml cream

130 g vanilla sugar

240 ml milk

125 g white topping

100 g peanut butter

5 egg yolks

2 ripe bananas

1 vanilla bean

30 ml lemon juice DIRECTIONS: Whip up the eggs first, then gradually add sugar and keep stirring in until dissolved. Then stir in cream and milk. Transfer one cup of the mixture to a separate bowl, add and stir peanut butter with the mixture, and then add it to the first mixture and stir well. Freeze in an ice cream maker or put in a freezer. Blend the bananas with lemon juice, add it to the ice cream mixture that is almost frozen, or mix them together and freeze completely.

DIRECTIONS: Heat up milk. Whip up egg yolks and vanilla sugar to foam. Melt the topping in milk. Split the vanilla bean in two pieces. Add vanilla extract to milk, and then whip up milk, sugar and egg mixture together. The mixture must not be allowed to boil—remove from heat as soon as it begins to steam, and then pre-chill it. Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker or put it in a freezer.

Coconut Ice Cream Ingredients:

450 ml coconut milk 250 ml whipped cream 2 egg yolks 50 g coconut flour 100 g coconut sugar Chocolate sprinkles (optional) DIRECTIONS: Heat up coconut milk together with other ingredients in a single pan over low heat, do not wait for it to boil. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Remove from heat and chill. Place in a large bowl and freeze for three hours. Remove from freezer, blend the mixture with a whisk and put it back in the freezer. Repeat this again in an hour or two. Repeat again if needed until the mixture is well blended. Those who wish to have a really creamy mixture may use an electric hand mixer to whisk it before freezing. In the end, sprinkle chocolate sprinkles on top. 131



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