Broj 23, Oktobar 2020.
10 RAZLOGA ZAŠTO POSJETITI TRAVNIK/ 10 REASONS TO VISIT TRAVNIK
DOBOJ
GRAD NA TRI RIJEKE A CITY ON THREE RIVERS
Top
Najljepsih destinacija
za planinarenje u Bosni i Hercegovini
Top Five Most Wonderful Hiking Spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina INTERVJU / INTERVIEW: DAMIR IMAMOVIĆ I SHEIKH MOHAMMED AL QASIMI
Importanne centar, Zmaja od Bosne 7/7A, Sarajevo
EMA de IR d.o.o.
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Titova 31, 71000 Sarajevo
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EMA de IR d.o.o., zastupnik za Modna kuća Luna n Titova 31, 71000 Sarajevo Tel/fax: +387 33 554 070 n E-mail: info@emadeir.ba
EMA de IR d.o.o.
Titova 31, 71000 Sarajevo
Tel/fax: +387 33 554 070
E-mail: info@emadeir.ba
SADRŽAJ INTERVJUI I PRIČE Damir Imamović Sve lakše prođe s pjesmom 18 Anita Barjaktarević Real Third World: Kad bi tornjak mogao da priča 24 Šeik Mohammed al Qasimi Bosna i Hercegovina, zemlja velikih mogućnosti za biznis i život 30 MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Josip Vancaš – čovjek koji je u Sarajevo ulio život 42 Top 5 najljepših destinacija za planinarenje u Bosni i Hercegovini 56 10 razloga zašto posjetiti Travnik 68 Oćevija, selo kovača s očaravajućim vodopadom i izletištem 74
30 35
Doboj – grad na tri rijeke 78
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Mostovi ljubavi u Bosni i Hercegovini 85 PREDSTAVLJAMO Ibis Styles, unikatan hotel u Sarajevu 35 Olimpijski muzej ponovo u svom domu 46 Apoteke Sarajevo - Neka vaša koža ponovo zablista 110 FOTO EDITORIJAL SEAD ŠAŠIVAREVIĆ Fotografijama ispisuje bajke 90 PUTOVANJA ISTANBUL Očaravajuća mješavina Istoka i Zapada 100
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CONTENTs INTERVIEWS AND STORIES Damir Imamović Songs Make Getting Through Anything Easier 21 Anita Barjaktarević Real Third World: If the Tornjak Could Talk 25
18 85 54 68
Sheikh Mohammed al Qasimi Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Land of Wonderful Opportunities for Business and Life 33 MY MAGICAL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Josip Vancaš – The Man Who Brought Life to Sarajevo 44 Top 5 Most Wonderful Hiking Spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina 62 10 Reasons to Visit Travnik 69 Oćevija, Blacksmiths' Village with a Stunning Waterfall and an Outing Area 76 Doboj, City on Two Rivers 81 Love Bridges in Bosnia and Herzegovina 88 INTRODUCING Ibis Styles, A Unique Hotel in Sarajevo 38 Olympic Museum home again 47 Apoteke Sarajevo: Make your Skin Glow again with Galas Face Creams 111 PHOTO EDITORIAL SEAD ŠAŠIVAREVIĆ Writing Fairy Tales with Photos 90 TRAVEL ISTANBUL An Enchanting Mix of the East and the West 104
TRAVEL / DESTINATIONS / ADVENTURE
Broj 23, Oktobar 2020.
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DOBOJ
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Najljepsih destinacija www.furaj.ba
za planinarenje u Bosni i Hercegovini
Foto/Photo: Sead Šašivarević
IMPRESSUM
Broj 23, Oktobar 2020.
Foto/Photo: Emira Azganović - Ilidža
www.furaj.ba
Top Five Most Wonderful Hiking Spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina INTERVJU / INTERVIEW: DAMIR IMAMOVIĆ I SHEIKH MOHAMMED AL QASIMI
FURAJ.BA Magazine br. /no. 23 - Oktobar 2020 Direktor/Director Emira Azganović Redakcija/Editorial Staff Samra Višnjić Semra Hodžić Elma Zećo Ivana Dukčević Fotografije/Photographs Dženad Džino Sandro Paradžik Irfan Redžović DTP&Dizajn/Design Sandra Ozimica Prevod /Translation Dženita Pašić Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 +387 33 208 818 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.
Adresa/Address Kralja Tvrtka 9, Sarajevo
Umnožavanje ove publikacije ili bilo kojeg njenog dijela ne smije se reproducirati, pohranjivati u sistemu za pretraživanje ili prenositi u bilo kojem obliku i na bilo koji način, elektronski, mehanički, fotokopiranjem, snimanjem objavljenih reklamnih poruka i preuzetih sadržaja s pomenutih ili oglašavanih elektronskih lokacija. Ne snosimo odgovornost za nenamjerne ili štamparske greške. Multiplication of this publication or any part of it mustn’t be reproduced, stored in search engines or transferred in any form, in any way, electronically, mechanically, copying, recording or any other way without the publisher’s approval. The editorial staff of the Furaj.BA magazine takes no responsibilities for the content and the validity of published advertising messages and downloaded content from above mentioned or advertised electronic sources. We don’t take responsibility for inadvertent and typographical errors. 8
www.furaj.ba
S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE
Uvodnik Intro Dragi čitatelji,
Dear readers,
jesen nas je ponovo uspjela podsjetiti koliko je čarobna i svojim je dekorom već ukrasila našu prekrasnu zemlju u čije smo se ljepote iznova uvjerili, ili ih tek otkrili u proteklom periodu, zbog nemogućnosti putovanja.
autumn has already succeeded in reminding us just how delightful it is, and its colours have once again decorated the landscape of our beautiful country whose wonderful sites we have come to appreciate again or discovered only recently due to travel restrictions.
Svjetske destinacije nam i dalje nisu dostupne, ali mi u Bosni i Hercegovini imamo sve što nam je potrebno – sunčane gradove, vazdušne banje i magične prizore na našim planinama, neprocjenjivo historijsko blago... Ovo je doba idealno za otkrivanje prirode oko nas, a u novom broju magazina donosimo vam prijedloge kako uživati u jeseni.
International destinations are still not available to us, but we have got everything we need in Bosnia and Herzegovina—sunny cities, aerial spas and quite a few magical mountain landscapes, invaluable historical treasures… This is an ideal time for exploring the nature around us, and in this issue of the magazine, we are bringing you some tips on how to enjoy the autumn season.
www.furaj.ba
S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE
Boje sezone
10
Colours of the Season
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NOVOSTI / NEWS
„NOMAD“—A NEW WELLNESS & SPA AND APART HOTEL UNDER CONSTRUCTION IN BJELAŠNICA MOUNTAIN In close proximity to Bjelašnica ski slopes, the construction of a new wellness & spa and apart-hotel with a symbolic name—Nomad—has begun.
NA BJELAŠNICI SE GRADI NOVI WELLNESS&SPA I APART HOTEL „NOMAD“ U blizini skijaške staze na Bjelašnici počela je izgradnja novog wellness&spa i apart-hotela simboličnog naziva - Nomad. Ovo mjesto nudi sve što moderni nomadi žele: prirodu u dobrom društvu. Objekat će u svom sastavu imati 51 dizajni-
ranu hotelsku sobu, te 60 apartmana. Udoban smještaj u atraktivnom ambijentu, direktni izlaz na ski stazu, wellness&spa, gastro pub, restoran, konferencijski prostor i dječija igraonica samo su neki od sadržaja hotela.
This place is exactly what any modern nomad wants: nature in good company. The facility will comprise 51 designer hotel room and 60 suites. Comfortable accommodation in an attractive setting, direct access to the slopes, a wellness & spa centre, a gastro pub, a restaurant, a conference venue and a day care centre are just some of the amenities the hotel will offer.
ONLINE KUPOVINA U APOTEKAMA SARAJEVO JU "Apoteke Sarajevo" imaju novu uslugu - online kupovinu. Od sada možete kupovati preko aplikacije čijim instaliranjem imate kvalitetniji i brži pristup informacijama, saznati dostupnost potrebnih preparata ili imati mogućnost notifikacije u slučaju da je neki preparat deficitaran, te saznati koja je najbliža poslovnica. Ukoliko posjetite internet stranicu www.apoteke-sarajevo.ba možete direktno komunicirati sa magistrom farmacije putem chat opcije te saznati sve potrebne informacije. 12
ONLINE SHOPPING IN APOTEKE SARAJEVO Public Institution “Apoteke Sarajevo” now offers a new service: online shopping. From now on, you can use an app to buy products—install it and get a better and faster access to information, check the
availability of the products you need, get notified if a product is unavailable, and find your nearest “Apoteke Sarajevo” shop. Visit www.apoteke-sarajevo.ba to directly communicate with a master of pharmacy through a chat box and get all the info you need.
NOVOSTI / NEWS
U SARAJEVU OTVOREN CARIBOU COFFEE Popularni američki brend Caribou Coffee koji ima više od 600 poslovnica u svijetu, otvorio je samouslužnu kafeteriju i na Pofalićima. U svojim proizvodima koriste devet različith vrsta kafe, među kojima je i 100 posto arabika kafu koju dosad nismo imali priliku vidjeti u BiH. Rade svaki dan 7-23 sata, a pored kafe nude i specijalne sendviče, napravljene po američkoj recepturi.
CARIBOU COFFEE OPENED IN SARAJEVO Caribou Coffee, a popular US coffee brand with more than 600 locations throughout the world, has opened a self-service coffee place in the
ELEKTRIČNI ROMOBILI – NOVO GRADSKO PRIJEVOZNO SREDSTVO U SARAJEVU Od nedavno Sarajlije mogui koristiti BeeBee električne romobile za prijevoz gradom. Mogu ih koristiti aktiviranjem jednostavne mobilne aplikacije, a uz njih mogu izbjeći gradsku gužvu, te brzo i sigurno stići do željenog odredišta. Romobile iznajmljujete, koristite i plaćate putem aplikacije koja je dostupna na Google Play-u ili App Store-u.
E-SCOOTERS-NEW MEANS OF TRANSPORT IN SARAJEVO BeeBee electric scooters have recently become available to Sarajevans for transportation in the city. By activating a simple mobile app, they can use e-scooters to avoid city rush hours and arrive at their destination quickly and safely. Users can rent, use and pay for the use of e-scooters directly through the app available on Google Play and App Store. 14
Pofalići neighbourhood. The company uses nine different varieties of coffee including 100% Arabica coffee that we have not been able to see in B&H
so far. The coffee place is open from 7 am to 11 pm. Apart from coffee, the menu has special sandwiches made following American recipes.
USPJEŠNE PRIČE / SUCCESS STORYES
JASMILA ŽBANIĆ
DŽEVAD KARAHASAN
Film “Quo Vadis, Aida?” bosanskohercegovačke rediteljice i scenaristice Jasmile Žbanić koji je svjetsku premijeru imao na ovogodišnjem Filmskom festivalu u Veneciji izabran je kao bh. kandidat za Oscara u kategoriji Najbolji međunarodni dugometražni film. Radnja filma govori o genocidu u Srebrenici, a glavni lik Aida radi kao prevoditeljica u Srebrenici, zaštićenoj zoni UN-a. Jasmilin film izabralo je za kandidata za nagradu Američke akademije Udruženje filmskih radnika BiH, kao certificirana strukovna organizacija za Bosnu i Hercegovinu. Film je proglašen najboljim stranim filmom na Međunarodnom filmskom festivalu u Antaliji.
Jedan od najznačajnijih bosanskohercegovačkih pisaca Dževad Karahasan primio je prestižnu Goetheovu nagradu Grada Frankfurta, kao osoba “koja se već dokazala kroz svoj rad dostojan časti posvećene sjećanju na Goethea”, za prevladavanje političkih i kulturnih barijera u doba rastućeg nacionalizma u Evropi i za rad na razumijevanju i toleranciji između Istoka i Zapada. Nagrada se dodjeljuje svake tri godine na rođendan Johanna Wolfganga von Goethea, najvećeg i najsvestranijeg njemačkog pisca. Karahasan je i ranije bio nosilac brojnih odlikovanja u Njemačkoj, gdje je rado čitan. Dobitnik je i Heineove nagrade 2012, kao i Književne nagrade za evropsko razumijevanje 2004. godine.
JASMILA ŽBANIĆ
DŽEVAD KARAHASAN
FILM „QUE VADIS, AIDA?“ BH. KANDIDAT ZA OSCARA
“QUE VADIS, AIDA?”- B&H CANDIDATE FOR AN OSCAR “Quo Vadis, Aida?”, a film by Jasmila Žbanić, Bosnian-Herzegovinian director and screenwriter, which had its world premiere in the Competition Programme of the Venice Film Festival, is the B&H candidate for the Best International Feature Film category at the Oscar Awards. It tells the story of the Srebrenica genocide. Aida, the protagonist, works as an interpreter in Srebrenica, a safe area under UN protection. The Association of Film Workers of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is a certified professional organisation in Bosnia and Herzegovina gathering filmmaking professionals, selected Jasmila’s film as the country’s submission for the Academy Award competition. The film has recently won the best foreign film award at International Antalya Film Festival. 16
PRESTIŽNA GOETHEOVA NAGRADA
PRESTIGIOUS GOETHE PRIZE
Dževad Karahasan, one of the most prominent Bosnian-Herzegovinian writers, received the prestigious Goethe Medal from the City of Frankfurt as “a person who has already come to the fore through his work and whose creative work is worthy of an honour dedicated to Goethe’s memory“. In times of growing nationalism in Europe as well, he stands for the permanent overcoming of borders, be it political or cultural, and is committed to tolerance and understanding between the East and West. The Goethe Prize is awarded every three years on the birthday of Johann Wolfgang Goethe, the greatest and most versatile German writer. Karahasan also received the 2012 Heinrich Heine Prize and the 2004 Leipzig Book Prize for European Relations.
EDINA SELESKOVIĆ
SVJETSKA NAGRADA ZA VIZUELNU UMJETNOST Bosanskohercegovačko-američka umjetnica Edina Selesković dobitnica je globalne nagrade World Citizen Artists Award za vizuelne umjetnike. Nagradu dodjeljuje sedam fondacija i kulturnih institucija Velike Britanije (World Citizen Artists, Galerija Belgravia, Gandhi fondacija, PeaceDay 365, Bristol SU, Emmanuel Jal, Marta Gomez i “This is Mi Brave”), a Selesković ju je osvojila za projekt umjetničke instalacije Beating Heart koja povezuje nove tehnologije i savremenu umjetnost, publiku i kreativnost. Njenu multimedijalnu instalaciju čine skulptura, poruke, svjetlo, proširena stvarnost, interaktivnost i zvuk koje je publika premijerno imala priliku vidjeti na platou ispred Narodnog pozorišta Sarajevo u decembru 2019. godine.
AMIRA MEDUNJANIN
SVJETSKI USPJEH NOVOG ALBUMA Novi album bosanskohercegovačke dive sevdaha “For Him and Her” našao se među 10 najboljih izdanja u svijetu, prema Songlines magazinu (London, Velika Britanija), specijaliziranom za World Music. Drugo je to svjetsko priznanje za novi album naše dive. Naime, u septembru ove godine zauzela je novim albumom prvo mjesto najuglednije svjetske muzičke top liste World Music Charst Europe. Album je posvećen muzičkim legendama bivše Jugoslavije Tomi Zdravkoviću i Silvani Armenulić, na kojem je Amira u svom stilu otpjevala 12 njihovih pjesama. Izašao je u u izdanju Croatia Recordsa i u prodaji je od juna.
EDINA SELESKOVIĆ
AMIRA MEDUNJANIN
WORLD VISUAL ARTIST AWARD
NEW ALBUM’S GLOBAL SUCCESS
Bosnian-Herzegovinian American artist Edina Selesković is the winner of the 2020 World Citizen Artists Award. The award is presented to visual artists by Belgravia Gallery, the Gandhi Foundation, PeaceDay365, Bristol Students Union, Emmanuel Jal, Marta Gomez and “This is My Brave”, seven esteemed British foundations and cultural institutions. Edina Selesković’s winning piece, “Beating Heart”, connects new technologies with contemporary art, audience and creativity. Her multidisciplinary art installation incorporates sculpture, messages, lights, augmented reality, interactivity and sound. It was first displayed in front of the National Theatre in Sarajevo in December 2019.
“For Him and Her”, the latest studio album by Bosnian-Herzegovinian sevdah diva Amira Medunjanin, was ranked among the Top Ten World Music Divas by the British magazine Songlines (London, Great Britain). This is the second recognition she received for it. Namely, in September this year, “For Him and Her” took the top spot on the World Music Charts Europe, the world’s most highly regarded music chart. The album is a unique homage to Toma Zdravković and Silvana Armenulić, former Yugoslavia’s music legends: 12 of their songs interpreted by Amira Medunjanin simply enchant. The album was released on Croatia Records in June. 17
INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
Foto: Edvin Kalić 18
DAMIR IMAMOVIĆ, interpretator sevdalinki
Sve lakše prođe s pjesmom “S OBZIROM NA TO DA SAM NA SCENI VEĆ SKORO DVIJE DECENIJE, VAŽNO JE DA SE POVREMENO ‘PONOVIM’ NEKIM NOVIM ZVUKOM, PRISTUPOM SNIMANJU, PRODUCENTOM I MUZIČARIMA S KOJIMA MOGU ISPRIČATI NEKU NOVU PRIČU” Razgovarala: Elma Zećo
K
ada se pojavio na muzičkoj sceni prije skoro dvije decenije, Damir Imamović odmah je ostavio dojam umjetnika čije će se ime dugo pamtiti. Ne zbog toga što potječe iz porodice sevdalijskih bardova, nego zato što već svojim prvim muzičkim poduhvatima kreira drugačiju vrijednost stavljajući tradiciju u nove umjetničke okvire na zapažen i dopadljiv način. Ako je suditi iz ugla posmatrača, s lakoćom je prihvaćen u domovini i na području bivše Jugoslavije, a nešto kasnije s pjesmom odlazi i u daleki svijet. Izuzetan vokal, čija emocija uspijeva otvoriti dušu, dobitnik je nekoliko domaćih i međunarodnih priznanja. Posljednje je stiglo nedavno – titulom najboljeg evropskog world music izdanja sezone septembar 2019–septembar 2020. krunisan je njegov novi album Singer of tales, koji je svjetlo dana ugledao u jeku pandemije.
PREMALO SE RADUJEM USPJESIMA Uprkos negativnom utjecaju Covida-19 na cjelokupni život, Vaš novi album doživljava veliki uspjeh. Koliko Vam je, s jedne strane, teško
palo što ste bili spriječeni krenuti na planiranu turneju povodom njegovog izlaska, te s druge strane, koliko ste sretni što ovo ostvarenje osvaja velika priznanja? - Iskreno, u početku sam bio zaprepašten cjelokupnom situacijom. Sve je već bilo dogovoreno s brojnim medijima u Londonu i trebala je uslijediti turneja od preko dvadeset koncerata, tako da sam 15. marta trebao putovati u London radi promocije. Hladan tuš koji je uslijedio nije nas, ipak, spriječio da objavimo album. Još uvijek mislim da je to bila dobra odluka, s obzirom na okolnosti, a i nagrade koje album osvaja potvrđuju da smo napravili dobar izbor. Kome uvijek najprije saopštavate vijesti o svom uspjehu? - Nekolicini prijatelja i porodici. Moram priznati da se premalo radujem uspjesima. Valjda je to neki rezultat našeg kolektivnog psihičkog stanja, crnjaka u kojem smo odrasli, majke koja te od djetinjstva opominje: “Ne smij se toliko, oplakaćeš!”. Na koji način birate saradnike na albumu i kako osjećate da su oni pravi izbor?
- Imam dvije vrste saradnika: one s kojima radim redovno dugi niz godina, i one s kojima radim povremeno na određenim projektima. S ovim prvima imam odnos kao s porodicom: zajedno rastemo, istražujemo, pokušavamo uvijek nešto novo. Druga vrsta su ljudi za koje mislim da mogu dati neki novi vjetar u leđa onome što radim. S obzirom na to da sam na sceni već skoro dvije decenije, važno je da se povremeno ‘ponovim’ nekim novim zvukom, pristupom snimanju, producentom i muzičarima s kojima mogu ispričati neku novu priču. Kada snimate, koliko je teško dosegnuti istovremeno emociju i perfekciju zvuka? - To je uvijek izazov. U početku mi je to bio veliki problem. Sjećam se da sam ga rješavao često sa snimanjem live nastupa. Tako su nastala dva moja albuma u prvim godinama. Nastup uživo garantuje neku energiju i emociju. Kasnije sam naučio postizati to u studiju. Nastupima se tek polako vraćate. Koliko Vam nedostaju češći koncerti, intenzivnija druženja s publikom i putovanja? - Svima nama koji mnogo putujemo promjena postaje navikom. Kada 19
INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
Foto: Samir CK
se zatvoriš, to pada možda još teže nego ljudima koji ne putuju stalno. Istina je da nastupi ponovo polako kreću, ali stidljivo i uz veoma mnogo muke oko svakog individualnog koncerta. Postoji li zanimljiva anegdota s nekog putovanja koju biste mogli ispričati? - Bilo ih je, zaista, mnogo. Zatekneš se nekada u nekom nevjerovatnom dijelu svijeta, sa čudesnim ljudima. Putovanje nikada ne prođe onako kako si planirao. Ipak, kada se sve slegne, ostaju lijepi momenti.
SUPER PROSTOR POSTAO JE TOKSIČAN Doživljavate li umjetnost kao terapiju? - Jednim dijelom sigurno da. Sve lakše prođe s pjesmom. Imate li Vi neko sjećanje na djetinjstvo koje budi nostalgiju? 20
- Veći dio djetinjstva proveo sam u Hercegovini, gdje moji imaju vikendicu, tako da je većina tih sjećanja vezana za sunce i kamen. Onda je došao rat, pa sam dio djetinjstva proveo u podrumu. Djetinjstvo vas progoni cijeli život, i one dobre i one loše stvari. Šta najviše volite raditi s prijateljima? - Volim se družiti, razgovarati, budalesati s ljudima koje volim. To je također nešto što mi nedostaje u ovom vremenu pandemije. Družim se uglavnom ‘jedan na jedan’. Kako doživljavate društvene mreže? - U početku sam ih doživljavao kao super prostor za razmjenu mišljenja, informacija, linkova. Ali postale su vremenom veoma toksično okruženje. Imam utisak da svako najcrnje misli i strahove nastoji da podijeli na Twitteru i drugim mrežama.
Kao da se ljudi takmiče u crnjaku. Kao da ustanu ujutro i, nervozni uz kafu, odluče sasuti cijelom svijetu u lice svoje hejtove, nesigurnosti, strahove. Često se zezam da mi je svaka zlatna koju ne objavim. Volio bih kada bi se ljudi jedni prema drugima na mrežama odnosili više kao kada se sreću uživo. Čija književna djela pobuđuju najviše pažnje kod Vas? - Čitam prilično mnogo. Pogotovo ove godine. Recimo, Alen Mešković iz Danske me je baš oduševio svojim pisanjem. Bez kojih stvari za Vas život ne bi imao smisla? - Bez prijatelja, muzike, druženja, ali i izazova, još stvari za uraditi, postići, bar pokušati. To nekako životu daje smisao izvan pukog preživljavanja.
Foto: Edvin Kalić
DAMIR IMAMOVIĆ, Sevdalinka Interpreter
Songs make getting
through anything easier “SINCE I’VE BEEN ON STAGE FOR NEARLY TWO DECADES, IT’S IMPORTANT FOR ME TO “RENEW” MYSELF FROM TIME TO TIME WITH A NEW SOUND, APPROACH TO RECORDING MUSIC, A NEW PRODUCER AND MUSICIANS I CAN TELL A NEW STORY WITH.” Interviewed by: Elma Zećo
W
hen he first emerged on the music scene nearly two decades ago, Damir Imamović left us with an impression that he would be long remembered for his performances, not because he comes
from a family of sevdah bards, but because his first music endeavours created a distinctive value which sculpts tradition into a new artistic shape in a distinctive and appealing fashion. If we are to make judgments about him from an on-lo-
oker’s perspective, he seems to have been well-received among his fellow countrymen and the people in the former Yugoslavia. A little while later, he started to perform his songs far away from here. 21
INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
With a remarkable singing voice and an emotion that opens the soul, he won several national and international awards. The latest one came only recently—his brand new album Singer of Tales, released in the midst of the pandemic, has been declared the best European world music album in the September 2019 – September 2020 season.
I DON’T REJOICE IN MY ACCOMPLISHMENTS MUCH In spite of the negative impact of Covid-19 on life as a whole, your latest album has been a huge success. How hard has it been for you that you’ve been prevented from planning a tour after its release, on the one hand, and how happy have you been with this album winning important awards? - Honestly, this whole situation totally flabbergasted me. We’d already made all the arrangements with quite a few media outlets in London, and we were supposed to do a tour consisting of more than twenty concerts. So, I was set to go to London for promotional purposes on 15 March. A cold shower amid the excitement didn’t, however, stop us from releasing the album. I still believe it was a good decision, given the circumstances, and the rewards the album got show that we made the right choice. Who’s always the first person you share the news of your success with? - A few friends and family. I’ve got to admit that I don’t rejoice in my accomplishments much. I guess that’s the consequence of our collective mental state of mind, the negativity we grew up in, the words your mom has used to reprimand you since you were a child: “Don’t laugh so much, you’ll end up crying!” How do you choose people to work with on your albums, and how do you know they’re the right choice? Foto: Edvin Kalić 22
- There are two types of people I cooperate with: those that I’ve been
hood in Herzegovina, it’s the place where my family has a holiday home, so my memories are tied to sunny weather and rocks. Then, war broke out, so I spent a part of my childhood in the basement. Childhood continues to haunts you throughout your life, both the good and the bad things. What’s your favourite thing to do with your friends? - I love hanging around, talking, fooling around with the people I love. That’s also something I miss doing during the pandemic. I mostly socialise with friends one-on-one. What do you make of social media platforms? Foto: Rade Marković working with for quite some time, and those that I occasionally work with on certain projects. The former ones are like my family members: we’re growing and exploring things together, we’re always trying out something new. The latter are the kind of people I believe can give me a boost of new energy on my work. Since I’ve been on stage for nearly two decades, it’s important for me to “renew” myself from time to time with a new sound, approach to recording music, a new producer and musicians I can tell a new story with. When you’re recording, how difficult is it to achieve the perfect balance of both emotion and sound? - It’s always challenging. I had a lot of trouble with it at first. I remember trying to get around it by recording live performances. That’s how my first two albums were recorded in the first years of my music endeavours. Performing live guarantees a special energy and emotion. Later on, I learned how to achieve it in the studio. You’re slowly starting to perform live again. How much do you miss performing in concerts more frequently,
spending time with your audiences and travelling more intensively? - Travelling becomes something of a habit with all of us who travel a lot. When you stop, perhaps you find it more difficult if you don’t travel all the time. It’s true that performance activities are slowly picking up again, but somewhat shyly, and there’s a lot of hassle in organising each individual concert. Have you got an interesting story to tell from one of your trips? - I’ve got quite a few such stories, really. Sometimes, you land up in an incredible place with some amazing people. Trips never really go according to plan. Still, when the dust settles, wonderful memories stay with you.
GREAT SPACE TURNED TOXIC Do you find music therapeutic? - In part, it surely is. Songs make getting through anything easier. Is there a memory that makes you feel nostalgic for your childhood? - I spent a major part of my child-
- First I thought they provided a great space to exchange opinion, information and links. But, over time, they became a very toxic environment. I get the impression that everyone is making an effort to share their darkest thoughts and fears on Twitter and other platforms. It’s almost as if people are partaking in a negativity contest. It’s almost as if having woken up on the wrong foot, they decide to pour out all the things they hate, all their insecurities and fears over a cup of coffee. I often jokingly comment that each word I don’t post is pure gold! I wish people treated each other on social media platforms the way they treat each other when they meet in person. What are the books that piqued your interest the most? - I’m an avid reader. This year, I read a lot of books. For instance, I was blown away by what Alen Mešković, a writer from Denmark, wrote. What are the things your life would not make sense without? - Without friends, music, hanging around, but also without challenges, more things to do and accomplish or at least try out. It somehow gives your life meaning and purpose beyond mere survival. 23
#REALTHIRDWORLD
Piše / Written by: Anita Barjaktarević
Svojim putem
Izraz treći svijet više nema dobro značenje. Dočarava slike izgladnjele djece nadutih stomaka, prljave vode i neizdrživog siromaštva. Ali nije uvijek bilo tako. Izraz treći svijet zapravo je nastao 1952. godine kako bi opisao nacije koje su odlučile krenuti svojim putem u naletu dviju zavađenih supersila. Sjedinjene Države i Sovjetski Savez postavile su ograničenja i granice preko kojih se nije moglo preći bez posljedica. Manje moćne nacije morale su napraviti izbor, bile su preslabe da bi se suprotstavile jednoj bez pomoći druge. Treći svijet, nacije koje su izabrale svoj put u bipolarnom hladnom ratu mogle su to učiniti zbog ogromne historije iza njih. Imale su svoje književne tradicije stare više od hiljadu godina. Ogromne dijelove veličanstvenih dvoraca sagrađenih u doba kada su srebro i rudarstvo ovih zemalja bili više od svega što je Zapad ikada vidio. Svoje abecede, vlastite bajke i vladajuće loze koje su u nekim slučajevima sezale u doba ispisanih starih priča. Razvili su vlastite jedinstvene poljoprivredne proizvode, posjedovali najstarije bazilike u hrišćanstvu, a u mnogim slučajevima su to bili narodi i mjesta događaja koji su promijenili cijelo lice poznatog svijeta. Priče iz Pravog trećeg svijeta žele donijeti ponos na mjesta sa snažnom prošlošću, mjesta koja su bila hrabra da stvore treći i neovisni put, te skrenuti pažnju na pojave koje su ljudima, koji su mogli biti zasjenjeni velesilom, dale snagu zauzeti se za sebe i odabrati svoj način. Stvarni treći svijet ima bogatu i nevjerovatnu historiju koja se predugo ignoriše. Sve te priče zahtijevaju da budu ispričane, a ponos i snaga zaslužuju da budu slavljeni. Jedna od manje poznatih priča iz stvarnog trećeg svijeta je priča o jedinstvenoj balkanskoj pasmini pasa, tornjaku. Tornjak, pas uzgajan za čuvanje stada planinskog područja, sa sobom nosi osobnost regije u kojoj je nastao. On je žestok u zaštiti svog stada i porodice, te miran, postojan i odan pratilac.
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On Their Own Path
The term Third World has no good meaning anymore. It conjures up pictures of starving children with bloated stomachs, filthy water, and unendurable poverty. But it was not always like that. The term Third World was actually coined in 1952 to describe those nations who were choosing to forge their own way in the wakes of the two feuding superpowers. The United States and the Soviet Union were lining the world up on either side of the line in the sand. Less powerful nations had to make a choice, they were too weak to stand against one without the help of the other. The Third World, the nations that chose their own way in the bipolar Cold War, were able to do so because of the vast histories behind them. They had their own literature traditions, which were over a thousand years old. They had vast swathes of majestic castles, built in an age when the silver and mining wealth of these countries was more than anything the West had ever seen. They had their own alphabets, their own fairy tales, and ruling lineages that in some cases stretched back into the time of the storied past. They developed their own unique agricultural products, owned the oldest basilicas in Christianity, and in many cases were the nations and sites of events that changed the entire face of the known world. The Real Third World column aims to bring the pride in places with strong histories that gave them the courage to forge a third and independent way, and to bring attention to those stories that gave people who could have been overshadowed by the superpower fight the strength to stand up for themselves and choose their own way. The Real Third World has a rich and incredible history that has been ignored for far too long—those stories demand to be told, and that pride and strength deserves to be celebrated. One of the lesser-known stories of The Real Third World that needs to be told is the story of the unique Balkan dog breed, the Tornjak. The Tornjak, a dog bred to guard the flocks of the mountain region, carries with it the personality of the region it originated in. Tornjak is fierce in protecting its flock and family, and calm, steady and loyal companion.
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Kad bi tornjak mogao da priča “PSI GOVORE, ALI SAMO ONIMA KOJI ZNAJU KAKO DA SLUŠAJU”, ZAPISAO JE ČUVENI TURSKI KNJIŽEVNIK ORHAN PAMUK. ZAMISLITE ONDA ŠTA BI NAM, SVOJIM ODLUČNIM LAVEŽOM, JEDINI AUTOHTONI BOSANSKI PAS - TORNJAK, MOGAO ISPRIČATI O POSLJEDNJIH HILJADU GODINA, OTKAKO JE PRVI PUT SPOMENUT U HISTORIJSKIM DOKUMENTIMA I SPISIMA. SAMO KAD BISMO GA ZNALI SLUŠATI. PLEMENITA PASMINA Pričao bi sigurno o borilačkim arenama u koje su ga bacali Rimljani, pričao bi o vukovima, medvjedima i ostalim zvijerima kojima se odlučno suprotstavljao da bi zaštitio svog gospodara i svoj tor. Pričao bi i o stoljećima raznoraznih previranja kroz koja je ovo živopisno podneblje prolazilo. O carevima, kraljevima, banovima i sultanima, ali i običnim ljudima, pastirima i seljacima dobrog srca. Mnogo toga bi nam ispričao naš tornjak, dok dostojanstveno i zaštitnički obilazi svoje stado, ušiju naćuljenih i istreniranih da čuju i 26
najmanji šum opasnosti koja vreba iz svakog ćoška. Pričao bi on, ali bi ga razumjeli samo rijetki i probrani. Oni poput Dine Haračića, Almira Ibrića, ili nekih drugih uzgajivača i „šaptača psima“, kojima možemo zahvaliti što se Bosna i Hercegovina i danas može dičiti ovom plemenitom pasminom. Kad putujete kroz Bosnu, naročito njene planinske dijelove, ne možete ne primijetiti stada ovaca ili koza, kako mirno pasu po livadama. Upravo takve, idilične slike bosanskih pašnjaka, brda i dolina, rijeka, jezera i netaknute prirode, glavni su razlog što svakom putniku, namjernom ili slučajnom,
zastaje dah. Baš takvim slikama je u svim udžbenicima, rječnicima i enciklopedijama ilustrovana riječ “idila“. Stado mirno pase, čuje se umirujući žamor potočića, ptice bezbrižno cvrkuću, vjetar huči, u travi lješkari nasmijani pastir, a sve to, budnim okom i gracioznim špalirom, prati jedan pas. On je velik i snažan, gotovo savršenih proporcija. Kreće se harmonično i s mnogo samopouzdanja. Uglavnom je bijele boje sa nekoliko šara po tijelu, a u očima mu odraz pitome prirode njegove domovine, njegovog gospodara i njega samog.
AUTOHTONI BOSANSKI PAS Miroljubiv, stamen i blage naravi, ovaj pas na prvi pogled djeluje kao ravnodušna i nezainteresovana životinja. Međutim, kad to situacija zahtijeva, budan je, agilan i toliko neustrašiv da će se suprotstaviti i puno većim i snažnijim protivnicima. Ne boji se ni čopora vukova, a s još nekoliko “kolega“ u stanju je otjerati i medvjeda. Zbog toga ne čudi da je upravo tornjak, taj veliki, mirni, dostojanstveni pas, autohtona pasmina Bosne i Hercegovine. Zemlje koja je vjekovima, zbog miroljubivosti svojih stanovnika, izgledala kao lak plijen za mnoge osvajače, ali je nakon stotina godina osvajanja, pokoravanja, buna i ratova, i dalje postojana, nezavisna, suverena, slobodna i nepokorena.
HISTORIJAT Baš kao i njegova domovina, i tornjak se prvi put spominje prije hiljadu godina, a daleke 1373. godine je i prvi put detaljno opisan, u spisima đakovačkog biskupa Petra Horvata. Opis je bio isti kao i danas: odani pas čuvar, koji radi sve što njegov gospodar traži, vrlo inteligentan i odgojen da ne bude agresivan, ugodan i blagonaklon prema strancima koje sretne izvan svoje domene. A
njegova domena je zaštita stada, odnosno sigurnost tora – po kojem je dobio i ime.
GDJE ŽIVI? Na vašem sljedećem putovanju kroz Bosnu i Hercegovinu otvorite oči i „naćulite uši“. Zaustavite se na obroncima Vlašića, Bjelašnice, Maglića, Prenja, Čvrsnice, Zelengore, Jahorine ili Velež planine. Odmorite se, umijte se vodom sa planinskog izvora, uživajte u umirujućem cvrkutu ptica koje nadlijeću netaknutu prirodu. Vidjećete stado ovaca ili koza, kako mirno pase svježu travu. Vidjet ćete i pastira, kako bezbrižno lješkari u hladu. I vidjet ćete psa, kako samozadovoljno šetka, ponosan što čuva mir i spokoj svog
gospodara i svog stada. I, kao da vam je to neko šapnuo, znat ćete da to nije običan pas, nego vjekovima star, dobri i odani, pitomi bosanski tornjak. Sjedite, gledajte i slušajte. Ako budete gledali i slušali dovoljno pažljivo i dovoljno dugo, čut ćete priču. Priču punu avanture i uzbuđenja, tuge i radosti. Priču koja nema početka, a nema ni kraja. Priču koja huči s vjetrom i žubori s rijekom, a utkana je u svaku travku. Malo će vas rasplakati, a zatim nasmijati. Ta se priča ogleda i ispisuje u dubokim, dobroćudnim i toplim očima tornjaka. Tek onda kad se na vašem licu u jedno spoje osmijeh i suza, moći ćete se svima pohvaliti da ste upoznali Bosnu i Hercegovinu.
“Smatra se da su psi tipa tornjak uglavnom nastanjivali Dinaride (Dinarske Alpe), pa ih zbog toga i danas najčešće možemo vidjeti u regiji oko bosanske planine Vlašić, u blizini nekadašnje bosanske prijestolnice – grada Travnika. Poznato je da su ove pse koristili čak i Rimljani. Nakon rimskog doba korišten je uglavnom kao pastirski pas. Međutim, s padom stočarstva, kao grane privrede, tornjacima je prijetilo izumiranje. Srećom, grupa vrijednih i odgovornih bh. kinologa sačuvala je pasminu. Na radost svih ljubitelja pasa, pastirski pas tornjak priznat je kao pasmina na Generalnoj skupštini Međunarodnog kinološkog saveza (FCI) održanoj u Leipzigu, 2017. godine. Osim u području bosanske planine Vlašić, danas širom BiH i Hrvatske žive hiljade tornjaka. Bila bi to velika šteta posjetiti Bosnu i Hercegovinu, a ne upoznati tornjaka“, istakla je Barjaktarević za Furaj.ba.
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If the Tornjak Could Talk “DOGS SPEAK, BUT ONLY TO THOSE WHO KNOW HOW TO LISTEN,” WROTE THE FAMOUS TURKISH WRITER ORHAN PAMUK. IMAGINE WHAT WOULD THE RESOLUTE BARKING OF THE ONLY INDIGENOUS BOSNIAN DOG, THE TORNJAK, TELL US ABOUT THE LAST THOUSAND YEARS, SINCE ITS EXISTENCE HAS BEEN DOCUMENTED IN HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS AND WRITINGS. IF ONLY WE KNEW HOW TO LISTEN TO HIM! NOBLE BREED He would surely talk about the fighting arenas the Romans threw him in, as well as the wolves, bears, and other beasts that he resolutely opposed, in order to protect his master and his lair. He would also talk about the centuries of turmoil that this geography has been through. About emperors, kings, bans, and sultans, but also ordinary people, shepherds, and good-hearted peasants. Our Tornjak would tell us a lot, while walking around his flock with dignity and protection, with his ears trained to hear even the slightest noise of danger lurking from every corner. He would speak, but only a few selected would understand him. Ones like Dino Haračić, Almir Ibrić, or other breeders and “dog whisperers” to whom we can thank for the fact that Bosnia and Herzegovina can still be proud of this noble breed. When traveling through Bosnia, especially its mountains, you cannot help but notice flocks of sheep or goats grazing peacefully in the meadows. Such idyllic images of Bosnian pastures, hills and valleys, rivers, lakes, and untouched nature are the main reasons every traveler, both intentional or accidental, holds his breath. These exact images are the illustration of the word “idyll” in all textbooks, dictionaries, and encyclopedias. The herd grazes peacefully, while the soothing murmur of the stream is heard in the background, the birds chirp carelessly, the wind howls, the smiling shepherd lazes in the gra28
ss, and all this is followed by with a watchful eye and a graceful trellis of a dog. He is both large and strong – well actually, of almost perfect proportions. He moves harmoniously and with much self-confidence. He is mostly white with a few patterns on his body, and in his eyes, one sees a reflection of the gentle nature of his homeland, his master, and himself.
AUTOCHTHONOUS BOSNIAN DOG Anita Barjaktarević, the Travel Manager and Coordinator at Red Africa Travel, says this dog breed is peaceful, calm, and mild-mannered. At first glance, they might seem like an indifferent and disinterested animal. However, when the situation requires it, they are alert, agile, and so fearless that they will oppose even much bigger and stronger opponents. They are not afraid of a pack of wolves, and with a few other of his “colleagues,” they can even drive away bears. Therefore, it is not surprising that Tornjak, this large, calm, dignified dog, is an autochthonous breed of Bosnia and Herzegovina. A country that seemed like easy prey for many conquerors for centuries, because of the peacefulness of its inhabitants. However, after hundreds of years of conquest, rebellion, and war, Bosnia and Herzegovina is still stable, independent, sovereign, free, and unconquered.
WHERE HE LIVES? On your next trip through Bosnia and Herzegovina, open your eyes and “prick up your ears”. Stop on the slopes of Vlašić, Bjelašnica, Maglić, Prenj, Čvrsnica, Zelengora, Jahorina or Velež mountains. Relax, wash your face with the water from the mountain springs, enjoy the soothing chirping of birds that fly over the untouched nature. You will see a flock of sheep or goats, calmly grazing the fresh grass. You will also see a shepherd, carelessly lounging in the shade. And you will see a dog, walking smugly, proud to keep the peace and serenity of his master and his herd. As if someone had whispered it to you, you will know
that he is not an ordinary dog, but centuries-old, kind and loyal, tame Bosnian Tornjak. Sit, watch, and listen. If you watch and listen carefully and long enough, you will hear his story. A story full of adventure and excitement, sadness, and joy. A story that has no beginning and no end. A story that roars with the wind and murmurs with the river, and is woven into every blade of grass. It might make you cry first, but it will surely make you laugh afterward. This story is reflected and written in the deep, benevolent, and warm eyes of the Tornjak. Only when you face feels both smiles and tears, will you be able to brag that you have met Bosnia and Herzegovina.
HISTORY Like his homeland, Tornjak was first mentioned a thousand years ago, in 1373, when it was first described in the writings of the Bishop of Đakovo, Petar Horvat. The description was the same as today: a loyal guard dog, who does whatever his master asks, brilliant, educated not to be aggressive, pleasant, and kind to the strangers he meets outside his domain. And his domain is the protection of the herd, or in other words, the safety of the lair (in Bosnian, the lair is called “tor”) - after which it got its name.
“It is believed that the Tornjak breed mainly inhabited the Dinarides (Dinaric Alps), so we can still see them today in the region around the Bosnian mountain Vlašić, near the former Bosnian capital - the town of Travnik. It is known that these dogs were used even by the Romans. After the Roman era, they were mainly used as a shepherd dog. However, with the decline of pastoral farming, as a branch of the economy, tornjaks were threatened with extinction. Fortunately, a group of hardworking and responsible Bosnian-Herzegovinian cynologists preserved the breed. To the delight of all dog lovers, the Tornjak shepherd dog was recognized as a breed at the General Assembly of the International Kennel Club (FCI), in Leipzig, in 2017. In addition to the area of the Bosnian mountain Vlašić, thousands of tornjaks live throughout BiH and Croatia today. It would be a great pity to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina, and not to meet Tornjak”, said Anita for Furaj.ba.
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INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
ŠEIK MOHAMMED AL QASIMI
Bosna i Hercegovina Zemlja velikih mogućnosti
za biznis i život
MOGAO JE DA ŽIVI BILO GDJE U SVIJETU, ALI ON JE ZA SVOJ DOM PRIJE 14 GODINA IZABRAO BIH. PRESUDILO JE MNOŠTVO PRIRODNOG BOGATSTVA, DOBRIH LJUDI I POTENCIJALA SLOŽENIH U PREDIVNI MOZAIK MALE ZEMLJE SMJEŠTENE U SRCU EVROPE Razgovarala: Elma Zećo / Fotografije: Sandro Paradžik
Š
eik Mohammed al Qasimi potječe iz porodice koja je preko 400 godina vladala u Arapskom zaljevu. Shodno tome, za njega je politička karijera bila prirodan izbor. Godinama je radio u različitim državnim službama i ministarstvima, služio svom narodu, a onda je odlučio znanje i iskustvo primijeniti u realnom sektoru. U BiH vlasnik je firme Emirates d.o.o., a njegov prvi veliki projekat bio je zabavni park na Trebeviću Sunnyland. Tu neće stati i već sljedeće godine najavljuje nove poduhvate.
MOJA ZEMLJA Iza Vas je 14 godina življenja u BiH, zemlji koju doživljavate jednom od najljepših na svijetu. Uzimajući u obzir Vaš porodični background i mogućnosti, šta Vas je ponukalo da spustite sidro ovdje? - Bosnu i Hercegovinu doživljavam kao svoju državu. Pored dobrih ljudi, bogata je prirodnim resursima koje mi u Emiratima nemamo. Toliko prirode i dobrote me je privuklo da dođem da spustim sidro ovdje, pokre�� nem svoj biznis i ostanem da živim. Mnogi investitori BiH smatraju pogodnim tlom za investicije. Kao 30
vlasnik firme Emirates investirali ste u prepoznatljivi zabavni park Sunnyland, u međuvremenu su se spominjale i druge investicije, ulaganje u zdravstveni turizam. Da li ste zadovoljni dinamikom razvoja Vaših poslovnih ideja i koji projekat u ovom trenutku okupira Vašu pažnju? - Iako nije najbolja situacija u svijetu u ovom trenutku zbog pandemije, firma Emirates i zabavni
na u službi našeg naroda. Biti dio te priče čini me veoma ponosnim i sretnim. Međutim, samo 50, 60 godina unazad naši ljudi i zemlja suočavali su se s raznim životnim poteškoćama. Nedostajala su im os� novna sredstva za život poput čiste vode za piće i najpotrebnijih životnih namirnica. Te slike su kod mene još uvijek veoma prisutne. Često se sjećam tog perioda. Ponosan sam kad vidim gdje se danas nalazimo. O čemu ste maštali dok ste odrastali?
“Često odlazim u Čajniče. Podsjeća me na dane kada sam studirao u Libanu” park Sunnyland posluju odličnom dinamikom i mnogo su napredovali u odnosu na proteklih nekoliko godina. Nove investicije su pred nama. Naredne godine krećemo s realiza� cijom zamišljenog. Vjerujem da BiH ima veliku budućnost kao i potenci�jal za biznis i život. Potječete iz porodice koja je najduže vladala u Arapskom zaljevu. U kojim slikama pamtite svoje djetinjstvo? - Naša porodica je preko 400 godi�-
- U kontekstu moje porodične priče prirodno je bilo odlučiti se za politič�ku karijeru u raznim državnim služ� bama i ministarstvima, biti svom narodu i državi od pomoći. Nakon moje političke karijere odlučio sam stečena znanja i iskustva primijeniti u realnom sektoru kao i pružati po� dršku drugim investitorima u rješa�vanju aktuelnih problema. Šta su za Vas uvijek bile najveće porodične vrijednosti? - Održati porodicu i prijatelje na okupu, ostati u kontaktu sa svima i uzajamno se pomagati.
VOLIM DA ISTRAŽUJEM BIH Kako Vi provodite vrijeme u BiH?
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INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
- Većinu svog vremena provodim s prijateljima iz Bosne i Hercegovine, porodicom, poslovnim partnerima i svaki slobodan trenutak koristim za istraživanje ove prelijepe države. Postoje li mjesta na koja se rado vraćate? - Često odlazim u Čajniče. Podsje� ća me na dane kada sam studirao u Libanu. Mjesto je bogato prirodnim resursima, šumom, čistim zrakom, a ljudi koji žive tu veoma su prijatelj� ski nastrojeni. Kada bi Vas neko pitao da BiH opišete s nekoliko riječi, šta biste rekli? - To je zemlja u koju ćete se zaljubiti na prvi pogled. A šta biste savjetovali svakom turisti koji ovdje dolazi po prvi put? 32
“Moj savjet agencijama u Bosni je da prošire ponudu, jer i pored poznatih atraktivnih destinacija ima toliko drugih prelijepih mjesta vrijednih obilaska i pažnje” - Većina turista koji dolaze iz GCC država u Bosnu i Hercegovinu zna�ju za poznate turističke destinacije kao što su Sarajevo, Bihać, Jajce, Trebević, Jahorina, Bjelašnica... Pored ovih destinacija, Bosna ima mnogo drugih lijepih i neistraženih mjesta, koja, definitivno, vrijedi vi-
djeti. Moj savjet agencijama u Bosni je da prošire ponudu, jer i pored poznatih atraktivnih destinacija ima toliko drugih prelijepih mjesta vrijednih obilaska i pažnje. Jeste li uspjeli naučiti bosanski jezik? - Svaki dan se trudim da naučim neku novu riječ od svojih prijatelja. Usvajanje novog jezika kod mene ima svoju određenu dinamiku, ali imam dovoljno vremena da to postignem. Kako bi izgledalo Vaše putovanje iz snova? - Proputovao sam i vidio skoro cijeli svijet. Mnogo je tih putovanja bilo, ali odluka da ostanem i pustim korijenje u Bosni nije mi nimalo teško pala.
SHEIKH MOHAMMED AL QASIMI
BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
The Land of Wonderful Opportunities for Business and Life HE COULD HAVE LIVED ANYWHERE HE WANTED, BUT 14 YEARS AGO HE CHOSE TO MAKE B&H HIS HOME. THE DECISIVE FACTOR WAS THE ABUNDANCE OF NATURAL RESOURCES, KIND-HEARTED PEOPLE AND A LOT OF POTENTIAL ARRANGED IN A WONDERFUL MOSAIC MAKING UP THIS LITTLE COUNTRY NESTLED IN THE HEART OF EUROPE Interviewed by: Elma Zećo / Photographs: Sandro Paradžik
S
heikh Mohammed al Qasimi comes from a family that ruled over the Arabian Gulf for more than 400 years. So, it was only natural for him to choose to pursue a political career. Having spent years working in state administration and various departments serving his people, he decided to make use of the knowledge and experience he gained in the real sector. In B&H, he owns a company called Emirates d.o.o., and his first major project was Sunnyland,
MY COUNTRY
“I frequently go to Čajniče. It reminds me of my student days in Lebanon.” an amusement park located in the Trebević Mountain. But, he will not stop there—as early as next year, he will present some new business ventures.
For the past 14 years, you’ve lived in B&H, a country you believe is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Having in mind your family background and the opportunities available to you, what inspired you to drop anchor here? - I see Bosnia and Herzegovina as my own country. Apart from kind-hearted people, it’s rich with natural resources we don’t have 33
INTERVJU / INTERVIEW
back in the Emirates. Abundant natural resources and people’s kindness attracted me to drop anchor, start my own business and live here. Many investors consider B&H an attractive place for investments. As the owner of Emirates, you invested in Sunnyland, a distnctive amusement park. Meanwhile, people talked about other investments, investments in health tourism. Are you happy with the pace at which your business ideas are developing, and which project are you preoccupied with at the moment? - Even though the situation throughout the world isn’t very good due to the pandemic, Emirates and Sunnyland amusement park are doing really well. They’ve made a lot of progress in the past few years. New investments are set to occur. Next year, we’re planning to make our plans come true. I believe that B&H has got a bright future ahead of it and a lot of potential for developing business enterprises and living a good life.
- Given my family background, it was only natural for me to choose a political career in state administration and various departments, to be of use to my people and country. After my political career, I decided to make use of the knowledge and experience I gained in the real sector and provide support to other investors in solving current issues. What family values have you always considered most important?
- I frequently go to Čajniče. It re� minds me of my student days in Lebanon. It’s a town rich in natural resources, forests, clean air, and the people who live there are rather friendly. If asked, how would you describe B&H in a few words? - It’s a country you’ll fall in love with at first sight. What advice would you give to a tourist visiting this country for the first time?
“I’d suggest travel agencies in Bosnia to expand on their offer, because in addition to the popular locations there are so many other wonderful places worthy of attention and exploration.”
You come from a family that has ruled over the Arabian Gulf the longest. How do you remember your childhood? - Our family has been serving our people for the past 400 years. Being a part of that story makes me proud and happy. However, our people and country have faced different challenges in the past 50-60 years. They lacked basic human necessities such as fresh water and basic food to sustain themselves. I can still very much see these images in my mind. I often think about this period. I’m proud of where we are today. 34
What dreams did you have growing up?
- Keeping my family and friends together, staying in touch with all of them and helping each other.
I LOVE TO EXPLORE B&H How do you spend your time in B&H? - I spend most of my time with my Bosnian-Herzegovinian friends, family and business partners, and I try to take advantage of every free moment to explore this wonderful country. Are there any places you happily go back to?
- Most tourists coming to Bosnia and Herzegovina from GCC countries are familiar with the popular tourist locations such as Sarajevo, Bihać, Jajce, Trebević, Jahorina, Bjelašnica… In addition to the popular locations, there are so many other wonderful and unexplored places worth visiting for sure. I’d suggest travel agencies in Bosnia to expand on their offer, because in addition to the popular locations there are so many other wonderful places worthy of attention and
exploration. Did you manage to learn to speak Bosnian? - I make an effort to learn a new word from my friends every day. Acquiring a new language has a certain dynamics in my case, but I’ve got enough time to acquire it. What would your dream trip look like? - I’ve travelled the world and seen a lot. I’ve travelled extensively, but deciding to stay and take root in Bosnia wasn’t difficult at all.
IBIS STYLES
Unikatan NEDALEKO OD CENTRA GRADA, I U BLIZINI MEĐUNARODNOG AERODROMA, SMJEŠTENA JE PRELIJEPA ZGRADA HOTELA UNIKATNOG DIZAJNA IBIS STYLES SARAJEVO. PO SVEMU ŠTO NUDI HOTEL JE ZAISTA JEDINSTVEN U ŠAROLIKOJ GRADSKOJ PONUDI ZBOG TOGA ŠTO JE POSVEĆEN ZDRAVLJU I ZDRAVIM NAVIKAMA – PA SE TAKO U HOTELU NE PUŠI I SLUŽE SE ZDRAVI SPECIJALITETI I BEZALKOHOLNI NAPICI. AKO VAM JE POTREBAN ODMOR I POVRATAK ENERGIJE, U OVOM HOTELU BORAVAK ĆE VAM BITI KAO U „ZDRAVOM SNU“.
35
USPJEŠNE PRIČE // INTRODUCING SUCCESS STORYES PREDSTAVLJAMO
SARAJEVO KAO INSPIRACIJA Pored jedinstvene ponude, uživat ćete i u prekrasnom enterijeru hotela inspiriranim Sarajevom i tradicionalnim zimskim sportovima grada. Dizajn hotela predstavlja svojevrsni prikaz Sarajeva u svim njegovim različitostima, a svaki element simbolizira nešto što imamo u gradu, kao što su bosanski ćilimi, Zimske olimpijske igre, dok novi elementi simboliziraju novi pokret.
NAJBOLJI KONFERENCIJSKI KAPACITETI U GRADU Hotel posjeduje konferencijske kapacitete za više stotina ljudi koje se mogu prilagoditi malim prijemima ili velikim događajima, a moderan i razigran dizajn dvorana okupanih 36
prirodnom svjetlošću rasplamsat će dobro raspoloženje ili kreativnu energiju na vašem događaju! Najbolji su to konferencijski kapaciteti u glavnom gradu koji mogu primiti do 800 gostiju, stoga su vrlo privlačni i za kompanije. Hotel se nalazi na idealnoj i veoma pristupačnoj lokaciji – blizu gradskog prijevoza, blizu centra grada i omiljenih izletišta.
PONUDA HOTELA U ponudi hotela je i prostrani restoran nostalgičnog naziva „1984“ u kojem vas dočekuje Vučko sa cjelodnevnom a la karte ponudom, a vrhunac gastronomske ponude ovog hotela je panoramski bar sa 60 sjedećih mjesta na XV i posljednjem spratu hotelskog tornja. Hotel ima Spa centar u kojem možete uživati u bazenu, sauni, fitness centru ili se počastiti masažom.
IGMAN BAR - JEDINSTVEN PANORAMSKI POGLED Savršen zalazak sunca Jedan od najljepših panoramskih pogleda na Sarajevo i olimpijsku planinu po kojoj je i nazvan ovaj bar, pruža se iz kafića smještenog na posljednjem spratu hotelskog tornja ibis Style Sarajevo – „Igman bara“. U opuštajućoj atmosferi prekrasno uređenog caffe bara uživat ćete u svakom godišnjem dobu kroz velike staklene portale kroz kojih pogled na urbani dio grada oduševljava, kao i na planinu po kojoj je dobio ime. Naročito je poseban ugođaj ljeti, dok ispijate kafu na prostranoj terasi sa koje je zalazak sunca naprosto savršen. Taj trenutak dok pijete kafu, pirka lagani povjetarac a vi posmatrate suton dugo će vam se urezati u sje-
ćanje. Baš kao i cijeli hotel, enterijer „Igman bara“ inspiriran je Sarajevom i njegovom tradicijom zimskog sporta koji su dočarani kroz unika tnu kombinaciju etnomotiva i modernog dizajna, u kojem su se na veoma maštovit i šarmantan način spojili simboli Istoka i Zapada, tradicionalnog i modernog, baš onako kako se doživljava i sam glavni grad BiH. U njemu ćete se stoga osjećati kao da ste se vratili u vrijeme kada je sarajevski olimpijski duh gorio punim plamenom. „Igman bar“ otvoren je za dnevne posjete. Nalazi se na veoma pristupačnoj lokaciji – blizu gradskog prijevoza, blizu centra grada stoga predsta vlja idealno mjesto za dnevne pauze, večernja ili druženja tokom vikenda, jer se do njega možete prošetati čak i poslije napornog radnog dana. Pogled koji se iz njega pruža, dobra
Hotel ibis Styles Sarajevo dio je jedne od najvećih svjetskih grupacija AccorHotels, koji spada u kolekciju ekonomskih, primarno gradskih hotela prepoznatljivih po razigranim, modernim enterijerima prožetim notom humora, a koji prate specifične teme, uglavnom vezane za duh urbane zajednice u kojoj se nalaze.
muzika i specijaliteti maestra – šefa kuhinje odmorit će vas za samo nekoliko trenutaka boravka ovdje. U baru možete uživati u interesant noj ponudi hrane i pića, a na meniju su posebno osmišljeni “lunch paketi” i selekcija zdravih čajeva i bezalkoholnih napitaka.
Adresa: Džemala Bijedića 169A, 71000 Sarajevo Tel: +387 33 483 900
hb3g8-fo1@accor.com
37
PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING
IBIS STYLES
A Unique
Hotel in Sarajevo
NOT TOO FAR FROM THE CITY CENTRE, CLOSE TO THE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, A GORGEOUSLY DESIGNED BUILDING OF THE UNIQUE HOTEL IBIS STYLES SARAJEVO IS SITUATED. THE HOTEL’S OFFER MAKES IT STAND OUT AMONGST A LARGE NUMBER OF CITY HOTELS BECAUSE IT PAYS PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO HEALTH AND HEALTHY LIFESTYLE HABITS—THE HOTEL IS SMOKE-FREE, AND HEALTHY CULINARY SPECIALTIES AND NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ARE SERVED THERE. IF YOU NEED A PLACE TO UNWIND, RELAX AND REPLENISH YOUR ENERGY, YOUR STAY AT THIS HOTEL WILL BE LIKE A “HEALTHY DREAM”. SARAJEVO AS AN INSPIRATION In addition to a unique offer, you will also indulge in the hotel’s lovely interior design which was inspired by Sarajevo and its traditional winter sports. The design showcases Sarajevo in all of its diversity, each element symbolising something we have in Sarajevo, such as Bosnian carpets and Winter Olympics, and each new element symbolising a new trend.
THE BEST CONFERENCE VENUES IN THE CITY The hotel’s conference area has the capacity of several hundred seats and can be easily adapted to host small receptions or large events. Its modern and playfully designed halls filled with natural light will boost a positive mood or get creative energy flowing at your event! This is the best conference venue in the capital with a capacity of up to 800 guests, which is why it appeals to businesses. Its location is ideal and quite accessible—it is close to public transport, and not far from city centre and favourite outing spots. 38
HOTEL FEATURES The hotel features a spacious restaurant with a nostalgic name— “1984”. You will be greeted by Vučko (Wolfie), and there is an à la carte menu to choose from throughout the day. The highlight of the hotel’s gastronomic offer is a bar offering panoramic views of the city and featuring 60 seats on the 15th floor, which is also the top floor, of the hotel tower. There is also a Spa Centre with a swimming pool, a sauna room and a fitness centre for you to enjoy in and with massage services for you to pamper yourself.
IGMAN BAR—A PANORAMIC VIEW UNLIKE ANY OTHER A Perfect Sunset The café located on the top floor of the ibis Style Sarajevo hotel tower— the “Igman Bar”—gives you unbeatable panoramic views of Sarajevo and the Olympic mountain the bar was named after. In the relaxing atmosphere of the beautifully decorated café bar you will enjoy each season as you look through large glass windows providing stunning views of the city and the mountain the bar takes its name after. The
Hotel ibis Styles Sarajevo is a member of AccorHotels, one of the world’s largest hotel groups. It is an economy hotel brand consisting of primarily city hotels best known for their playful, modern interior design features with a touch of humorous design elements that follow a specific theme largely related to the spirit of the urban community the groups’ hotels are located in. ambiance is particularly lovely in summer as you sit on a spacious terrace sipping coffee and taking delight in the most perfect sunset you have ever seen. The moments when you drink your coffee as you watch the dusk fall while a slight breeze wafts around you will stay
with you for a long time. Just like the entire hotel, the interior design of “Igman Bar” was also inspired by Sarajevo and its winter sports tradition featured in a unique combination of ethnic decorative styles and modern design elements creating an imaginative and charming blend of symbols of the East and West, and elements traditional and contemporary design styles, which is exactly how one perceives Bosnia and Herzegovina’s capital city. That is why you will feel as if you had travelled back in time to the period when Sarajevo’s Olympic spirit was in full effect. “Igman Bar” is open for daily visits. It is located in an easily accessible location—close to public transport, and not far from city centre—so it is an ideal place for a midday break and evening or weekend social gatherings, because it is easy to reach on foot even after a long day at work. The views it treats you to, good music and culinary specialties prepared by the bar’s culinary maestro—Chef de Cuisine—will make you feel well-rested in no time. Enjoy the bar’s interesting selection of dishes and drinks. The menu includes specially designed “lunch packages” and a great choice of tea and non-alcoholic beverages. 39
folow#furajba us NEKROPOLA ŽRTAVA FAŠIZMA, NOVI TRAVNIK
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MUZIČKI PAVILJON TRG AUSTRIJE, SARAJEVO
@ceycky
KULA SOKOLAC, BIHAĆ
@view.finder27
TUZLA
@senco.b
VLAŠIĆ
RAMSKO JEZERO
@nekako_drugacija_ja
@samirustalic
DABARSKA PEĆINA
PROKOŠKO JEZERO
@rahatlook_
ČVRSNICA
@donajdin
MOSTAR
@outdoorstep @_shadija
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
JOSIP VANCAŠ
čovjek koji je u Sarajevo ulio život MAĐARSKI ARHITEKTA JOSIP VANCAŠ JEDAN JE OD ONIH ZASLUŽNIH POJEDINACA KOJI JE REMEK-DJELIMA ZADUŽIO SARAJEVO, GRAD U KOJEM JE ŽIVIO 38 GODINA, AL I DRUGE GRADOVE BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE UPISAVŠI SE TAKO U HISTORIJU NAŠE ZEMLJE KAO NJEN NAJPLODOTVORNIJI ARHITEKTA. ZA SVOG JE 73 GODINE DUGOG ŽIVOTA DAO NEPROCJENJIV DOPRINOS NJEGOVOJ IZGRADNJI I MODERNIZACIJI ŠKOLOVANJE U BEČU Izuzetno znanje kojim se koristio za projektovanje veličanstvenih građevina u Sarajevu i drugim gradovima stekao je u prijestolnici Austrougarskog carstva Beču, na Visokoj tehničkoj školi i Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti. Najveći utjecaj na njega ostavili su bečki arhitekti Friedrich Schmidt, najpozvaniji autoritet gotičkog perioda, i Heinrich Ferstel što se odrazilo i na građevine koje je projektovao, zato često možete čuti da Sarajevo podsjeća na Beč. U njegovim projektima osjeti se utjecaj historicizma i eklekticizma, a 42
kasnije se javljaju i elementi bečke secesije, a javljaju se elementi od pseudoromaničkih do pseudoorijentalnih oblika. Kroz školovanje je bio orijentiran na renesansni i gotički stil, ali je po dolasku u BiH, na poziv bosanske vlade 1883. godine počeo proučavati ovdašnji stil graditeljstva i nastojao iskorisititi njegove karakteristične elemente kako bi ostvario tzv. “bosanski stil”. U tome je i uspio, ne oskrnavivši nimalo kulturnu zaostavštinu Osmanskog carstva koju je zatekao. Arhivi bilježe da je bio vrlo produktivan, jer se u literature navodi kako je zaslužan za projektovanje 102
stambene kuće, 70 crkvi, 12 škola, 10 banaka, 10 palača, 10 vladinih i op ćinskih zgrada, šest hotela i kafana.
KATEDRALA SRCA ISUSOVA Rad na čuvenoj sarajevskoj katedrali koji je obilježio njegovu karijeru i za kojeg je dobio priznanje Viteški križ, Vancašu je povjerio lično zajednički ministar finanija u BiH Benjamin Kallay. Njena izgradnja te davne 1889. godine koštala je 260 hiljada forinti. Građena je od kamena u kombinaciji gotičkog i romaničkog stila, stoga se ova zgrada izdvaja od svih drugih. Krase je spektakularni vitraži na prozorima, izuzetno lijepe orgulje
Sarajevo mu duguje i zahvalnost za zaštitu tradicionalne arhitekture. Naime, kao zastupnik u saboru podnio je 1911. godine Rezoluciju o zaštiti spomenika kulture u BiH, prvi definirajući termin “bosanski slog”. Njom je tražio zaštitu i valorizaciju graditeljskog naslijeđa, te posebne pogodnosti i olakšanje od poreza za sve nove objekte izgrađene u tom stilu.
smještene unutar crkve, te čuveni sat na prednjoj strani fasade. U njoj se nalazi i grob vrhovnog nadbiskupa Josipa Štadlera koji je i inicirao gradnju ove bogomolje.
ZGRADA POŠTE Ova prelijepa zgrada na lijevoj obali Miljacke izgrađena je 1913. godine u periodu Austro-ugarske vladavine kao vojna pošta, što je zapisano u holu ove zgrade. Kada je 1914. godine na prestonasljednika Franca Ferdinanda u Sarajevu izvršen atentat u vrijeme kada je trebao otvoriti novosagrađenu poštu, iz nje je u svijet telegrafski poslana vijest o atentatu.
Izgrađena je u stilu secesije i neodoljivo podsjeća na Bečku poštansku kasu. Unutrašnjost zgrade od njene izgradnje je nepromijenjena, no u njoj nedostaju veliki sat, grobovi K. Und K. Monarhije, vojnici i kraljevski sto presvučen zelenom čohom. Drugog maja 1992. je granatirana i spaljena, ali se 2001. godine vratila poput feniksa iz pepela – još ljepša nego što je bila.
BOGATA OSTAVŠTINA Među najimpresivnije zgrade koje je projektovao Vancaš u Sarajevu je i zgrada Predsjedništva BiH izgrađena 1886. godine, koja je najprije bila sjedište Zemaljske vlade.
Vancaš je projektovao i zgradu Muzičke akademije 1893. godine, obrazovne ustanove koja je odškolovala generacije sjajnih muzičkih umje tnika. Isprva je zgrada služila potrebama Zavoda sveti Augustin. Projektirao je i zgradu hotela Grand u srcu grada, dok je građevinu pred kojom je smještena Vječna vatra izgradio zajedno s Karlom Paržikom 1893. godine. Zatim je projektovao i Katoličko groblje na Koševu, Vrhbosansko bogoslovno sjemenište, te Crkvu Sv. Ante Padovanskog na Bistriku. Umro je u Zagrebu 15. decembra 1932. godine. 43
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
JOSIP VANCAŠ
The Man Who Brought Life to Sarajevo HUNGARIAN ARCHITECT JOSIP VANCAŠ IS ONE OF THE FEW INDIVIDUALS SARAJEVO IS INDEBTED TO FOR HIS MASTERPIECES, A CITY HE LIVED IN FOR 38 YEARS, AS WELL AS FOR OTHER CITIES ACROSS BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, ENTERING THE HISTORY OF OUR COUNTRY AS ONE OF ITS MOST PRODUCTIVE ARCHITECTS. IN HIS 73 YEARS OF LIFE, HE CONTRIBUTED GREATLY TO THE CONSTRUCTION AND MODERNIZATION OF SARAJEVO. EDUCATION IN VIENNA The exceptional skills that he used to design magnificent buildings in Sarajevo and other cities were gained in the capital of the Austro-Hungarian empire in Vienna, at the Technical College and the Academy of Fine Arts. Viennese architect Friedrich Schmidt had the greatest influence on him as the most popular authority of the Gothic period, as well as Heinrich Ferstel, which was reflected in the buildings he designed, and this is why you can often hear that Sarajevo is reminiscent of Vienna. The influence of histori44
cism and eclecticism can be felt in his projects, and in the later period, there were also elements of the Viennese secession, with elements of pseudo-Romanesque and pseudo-oriental shapes. Throughout his schooling, he was oriented towards the Renaissance and Gothic style, but upon arrival to B&H, at the invitation of the Bosnian Government, in 1883 he started studying the style of construction here and aimed to utilize its characteristic elements in order to create the so called “Bosnian style”. He was successful at it, without de-
secrating the cultural legacy of the Ottoman Empire that he found upon arrival. Archives show that he was very productive, as records state that he was responsible for designing 102 houses, 70 churches, 12 schools, 10 banks, 10 palaces, 10 government and municipal buildings, six hotels and cafes.
SACRED HEART CATHEDRAL Vancaš was entrusted by the joint Minister of Finance in B&H Benjamin Kallay to work on the famous
Sarajevo also owes him gratitude for the protection of traditional architecture. Namely, in 1911, as an MP, he filed the Resolution on the Protection of Cultural Monuments in B&H, being the first to define the term “Bosnian style”. With it, he requested the protection and valorization of architectural heritage, and special benefits and tax exemptions for all new buildings constructed in that style.
Sarajevo Cathedral, which marked his career and earned him the Knight’s Cross accolade. Back in 1889, its construction cost 260 thousand forints. It was built out of stone in a combination of Gothic and Romanesque styles, which sets it apart from all other constructions. It is decorated with spectacular stained-glass windows, an exceptionally pretty organ located inside the church, and the famous clock on the front of the facade. Within the church, there is also the grave of Archbishop Josip Štadler, who initiated the construction of this place of worship.
POST OFFICE This beautiful building on the left bank of the Miljacka River was built in 1913, during the period of Austro-Hungarian rule as a military post office, which is noted in the hall
of this building. In 1914, when the Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in Sarajevo at a time when the newly built post office was due to be opened, a telegraph with news of the assassination was sent to the world from the post office. It was built in the Secession style and is very reminiscent of the Viennese post office. The interior of the building has not been altered since it was constructed, but what is missing is the great clock, the graves of the K. Und K. Monarchy, soldiers and the royal table covered in green cloth. On May 2, 1992 it was shelled and burned down, but in 2001 it rose like a phoenix from the ashes – even prettier than before.
was the Building of the Presidency of B&H from 1886, which was originally the seat of the Local Government. Vancaš also designed the Musical Academy in 1893, the educational institution which produced generations of fantastic musical artists. Initially, the building was used for the needs of the Saint Augustine Institute. He also designed the Grand Hotel building in the heart of the city, while the building that sits behind the Eternal Flame was designed by him and Karel Parik in 1893.
RICH LEGACY
After that, designed the Catholic cemetery at Koševo, the Vrhbosna Theological Seminary, and the Church of St. Anthony of Padua at Bistrik.
One of the most impressive buildings that Vancaš designed in Sarajevo
He died in Zagreb on December 15, 1932. 45
PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING
Olimpijski muzej ponovo u svom domu
OLIMPIJSKI MUZEJ XIV ZIMSKIH OLIMPIJSKIH IGARA, KOJE SU TE DAVNE 1984. GODINE UVRSTILE SARAJEVO NA MAPU SVJETSKIH SPORTSKIH DOGAĐAJA, OTVOREN JE PRIJE 35 GODINA U STAROJ ARISTOKRATSKOJ PALAČI NA POČETKU PETRAKIJINE ULICE U NASELJU MEJTAŠ. NACIONALNI SPOMENIK Zgrada crvene fasade s bogatim ukrasima na fasadi nekada je bila vila Mandić, izgrađena 1903. godine za poznatog sarajevskog advokata i političara, doktora prava Nikolu Mandića. Autor projekta je arhitekta Karlo Paržik koji je prema tradiciji kasnog historicizma projektirao stambeni objekt po uzoru na luksuzne evropske vile iz istog perioda i ukrasio ga bogatim ukrasima alpsko-folklornih stilskih elemenata i njemačke gotike. U ovoj ulici jedna do druge su se poredale još tri ovakve vile, koje su kao graditeljska cjelina proglašene nacionalnim spomenikom Bosne i Hercegovine. Na dan otvaranja Olimpijade u Sarajevu, 8. februara 1984. godine, u objektu je otvoren Muzej XIV zimskih olimpijskih igara. Koncept i programi Muzeja sačinjeni su po uzoru na Međunarodni olimpijski muzej u Lozani, s idejom da vrši sintezu i afirmaciju dvije osnovne karakteristike - sport i umjetnost. 46
MUZEJ U OLIMPIJSKOJ LJEPOTICI Na samom početku rata u BiH, tačnije 27. aprila 1992. godine, bila je jedna od prvih kulturnih institucija koja je bila granatirana i uništena. Zahvaljujući angažmanu zaposlenih u Muzeju, naročito direktora Edina Numankadića i šire društvene zajednice u teškim ratnim uslovima eksponati Olimpijskog muzeja su evakuirani i spašeni, te pohranjeni na sigurna mjesta u podrume Olimpijske dvorane Zetra. Svi osim zbirke od oko 8.000 slajdova koja je izgorjela. U Zetri će kasnije ti eksponati zaživjeti kao dio novog Olimpijskog muzeja koji je obnovljen i svečano otvoren 2004. godine povodom obilježavanja 20. godišnjice od održavanja Olimpijade u Sarajevu. Osnovna koncepcija novog Olimpij skog muzeja je da kroz sport i umjetnost prezentira duh olimpizma, olimpijske vrijednosti, kreativnost, mladost i ostale pozitivne te-
kovine ovog događaja. Kroz segment sporta Muzeju je prezentirana priprema, organizacija i realizacija XIV ZOI u Sarajevu, a kroz segment umjetnosti prezentirane su Mapa svjetske grafike Art and Sport s djelima umjetnika kao što su: Henry Moore, Michelangelo Pistoletto, kao i kolekcija savremenih umjetnika BiH, među kojima su djela Berbera, Kućanskog, Zaimovića itd.
OBNOVA MUZEJA Zgrada u kojoj je nekada bio smješten muzej je obnovljena, u toku prošle godine urađena je fasada zgrade, te je postavljeno osvjetljenje koje je ovu prelijepu vilu učinilo još ljepšom. Svečano otvaranje Olimpijskog muzeja upriličeno je 8. oktobra ove godine, te se tako nakon 28 godina muzej vratio na staru adresu. U njoj su ponovo zaživjeli eksponati iz vremena Olimpijade u Sarajevu, ali i sa Evropskog olimpijskog festivala za mlade EYOF koji je održan 2019. godine u Sarajevu i Istočnom Sarajevu.
Olympic Museum home again THE OLYMPIC MUSEUM OF THE 14TH WINTER OLYMPICS, WHICH PUT SARAJEVO ON THE GLOBAL SPORTING EVENTS MAP BACK IN 1984, OPENED ITS DOORS 35 YEARS AGO IN AN OLD ARISTOCRATIC MANSION LOCATED AT THE BEGINNING OF PETRAKIJINA STREET IN THE MEJTAŠ NEIGHBOURHOOD. NATIONAL MONUMENT The red-façade building with richly decorative elements and ornaments used to be the Mandić Mansion which was built in 1903 for Nikola Mandić, a renowned Sarajevo’s lawyer and politician and a holder of a doctoral degree in law. The author of the design plan, architect Karel Pařík, created a residential building design in the late-historicism tradition modelled on luxurious European mansions built at the time and decorated with Alpine folklore elements and features of the German Gothic style. Three more similar mansions are lined up along the street in an architectural ensemble which was declared a national monument in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Museum was officially opened on 8 February ,1984 the opening day of the14 th Winter Olympics .The concept and program of the Museum are designed on the model of the International Olympic Museum in Lausanne with the idea to conduct synthesis and affirmation of the two main features – sport and art.
MUSEUM AT WONDERFUL OLYMPIC HALL At the onset of the war in B&H, on 27 April 1992 to be more precise, the Olympic Museum was among the first cultural institutions that were shelled and destroyed. Owing to the engagement of employees at the Museum, particularly its manager Edin Numankadić, and the wider community under difficult war conditions, the Olympic Museum’s exhibits were evacuated, salvaged, and stored in a safe underground place at the Zetra Olympic Hall. All exhibits were stored there apart from a collection of around 8,000 slides that went up in smoke. The exhibits were brought to life again in Zetra as part of a new Olympic Museum which was restored and inaugurated in 2004 on the twentieth anniversary of the 14th Winter Olympics in Sarajevo. The underlying concept of the new Olympic Museum is to present the spirit of Olympism, Olympic values, creativity, youth and other positive achievements of this event.
The sport section of the museum presents the preparation, organisation and implementation of the 14th Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, whereas the art section presents the Map of World Graphics Art and Sport with the pieces by Henry Moore, Andy Warhol, Michelangelo Pistoletto, as well as the collections of the contemporary artists of Bosnia and Herzegovina including pieces by Berber, Kućanski, Zaimović, etc.
MUSEUM RECONSTRUCTION The building that used to house the museum was reconstructed. Last year, a façade was constructed and lighting was set up making this lovely mansion even more beautiful. The Olympic Museum was re-inaugurated on 8 October at the same address where it had been originally inaugurated 28 years ago. Exhibits dating back to the Sarajevo Olympics and items from the European Olympic Youth Festival (EYOF) held in Sarajevo and East Sarajevo in 2019 were brought to life yet again.
47
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Morića han
POSLJEDNJI SAČUVANI KARAVAN-SARAJ NEKADAŠNJE KONAČIŠTE ZA UČESNIKE KARAVANA DANAS JE ARHITEKTONSKI SPOMENIK I POSLOVNOTRGOVAČKI CENTAR
Autor: Elma Zećo
48
N
emoguće je doći na kultnu Baščaršiju, a ne posjetiti Morića han, koji pored obližnje Begove džamije kao i Gazi Husrev-begove medrese također pripada Gazi Husrev-begovom vakufu. Čari koje donose sa sobom starinski objekti osjete se čim priđete ulazu u unutrašnje dvorište na ovim prostorima posljednjeg sačuvanog karavan-saraja.
i bojama. Iznad se pruža drveni plafon dekorisan tepisima i ponjavama, a na različitim mjestima postavljeni su drveni stubovi između kojih se šire note pretežno duhovne muzike. Iz ove perspektive vidi se poleđina jednog od dva stubišta koja vode na sprat Morića hana, gdje se nalaze različite poslovne kancelarije.
DAŠAK STAROG I NOVOG DOBA
KARAVAN-SARAJ ZA 300 PUTNIKA I 70 KONJA
Nekoć konačište za učesnike karavana, danas je Morića han renomirani arhitektonski spomenik i poslovno-trgovački centar čije se poslovne djelatnosti uklapaju u sami historijski ambijent. Središte avlije krasi drvo lipe. Okolo, gdje se odvija društveni život, smješteni su nacionalni restoran, bosanska kafana i radnja orijentalne robe. Dok s desne strane poglede mame skupocjeni ćilimi i druge unikatne kućne dekoracije, na lijevoj strani dominira duši privlačna jednostavnost. Tome doprinosi pažljivo probrani namještaj ugostiteljskih objekata i sama atmosfera koju stvaraju ljudi i muzika.
A sada se vratimo u prošlost dočaravajući Morića han u njegovom prvobitnom izdanju. Na konak je ovdje svojevremeno mogao doći karavan od čak 300 putnika, koje su na spratu čekale spremne musafirske sobe, i 70 konja koji su bili smješteni u prizemlju. Karavan-saraj je imao i jednu zajedničku prostoriju za razgovore uz kafu. No, ona je s vremenom postala mnogo više od toga, važno mjesto u gradu koje će biti kasnije spomenuto i u sevdalinci, jer su se u njoj često okupljali prvaci grada održavajući sastanke, a bila je i mjesto za skupštine obrtnika.
U unutrašnjost bosanske kafane ulazite kroz manja, dopadljiva vrata sa zvekirom. Ispred njih su stolovi, sećije i stolice u tradicionalnom stilu
Koliko je putnika stiglo, a koliko otišlo, uvijek je znao handžija po kojem je han u narodu dobijao svoj naziv. U 17. vijeku bio je to Hadži Beširov han, dok je Morića han prozvan
u prvoj polovini 19. vijeka po njegovim prvim zakupcima Mustafi-agi Moriću i njegovom sinu Ibrahim-agi. Inače, za ovu vrstu konačišta na samom početku bio je rezervisan isključivo pojam karavan-saraj. Hanovi su već bili manja prenoćišta poput običnih kuća bez unutrašnje avlije, ali u njima su putnici mogli također dobiti i hranu za razliku od karavan-saraja gdje su je morali sami sebi obezbijediti. U drugoj polovini 18. vijeka termin karavan-saraj kod nas iščezava, a han se počinje koristiti za obje vrste konačišta. Putujući kroz vrijeme, Morića han je uspješno hvatao korak s novim dobima. Na taj način među njegovim zidovima ostao je sačuvan život u svojoj punoći. Ljudi dolaze i odlaze, kao i nekada, samo s drugim razlozima. 49
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
CARAVANSERAI
THE LAST PRESERVED
Morića Han
THE FORMER GUESTHOUSE FOR CARAVAN PARTICIPANTS TODAY SERVES AS AN ARCHITECTURAL MONUMENT AND A BUSINESS AND SHOPPING CENTER Author: Elma Zećo 50
I
t is impossible to come to the cult place Baščaršija and not visit Morića Han, which apart from the nearby Bey’s Mosque, as well as the Gazi Husrev Bey’s Madrasa also belongs to Gazi Husrev Bey’s endowment. The magic of old buildings can be felt as soon as you approach the entrance into the inner courtyard in this space of the last preserved caravanserai.
A WHIFF OF OLD AND NEW AGE Once a guesthouse for caravan participants, today Morića Han is a renowned architectural monument and a business and shopping center, where the business activities fit in with the historical surroundings. The center of the courtyard is adorned by a linden tree. Around the area, where social life takes place, there is a traditional restaurant, a Bosnian cafe, and a store that sells oriental goods. While on the right side your eyes are drawn to expensive carpets and other unique home decorations, on the left side, a simplicity that feeds the soul is dominant. What contributes to this is the carefully selected furniture from the hospitality establishments, and the atmosphere which is created by the people and music.
You enter the Bosnian cafe through a smaller, attractive door with a knocker. In front of it, there are tables, settees and chairs in a traditional style and colors. Above it, a wooden ceiling stretches out, decorated by carpets and rag rugs, and there are wooden columns in various places, while predominantly spiritual music can be heard. From this perspective, you can see the back of one of two sets of stairs, which lead to the first floor of Morića Han, where there are various business offices.
hold meetings, and it also served as a place for the assembly of tradesmen.
CARAVANSERAI FOR 300 TRAVELERS AND 70 HORSES
As it happens, in the very beginning, this type of guesthouse was exclusively known as a caravanserai. Hanovi (guesthouses) were smaller guesthouses, like ordinary houses without an inner courtyard, but travelers could also get food there, unlike in caravanserais, where they had to obtain it for themselves. In the second half of the 18th century, the term caravanserai slowly stopped being used, and the word han began to be used for both types of guesthouses.
And now let’s go back to the past to evoke what Morića Han was like in its initial state. Once upon a time, a caravan of as many as 300 travelers could come to stay the night, where on the first floor there were guestrooms, and 70 horses, which were accommodated on the ground floor. A caravanserai also had one communal room for chatting and drinking coffee. However, with time it became a lot more than that, an important place in the city, which would later also be mentioned in sevdalinkas (traditional folk songs), because this is where the leaders of the city would often gather and
The handžija (inn-keeper) always kept track of how many travelers had arrived and how many had left, and the han (guesthouse) would get its name based on the inn-keeper. In the 17th century, it was Hajji Bešir’s Han, while Morića Han got its name in the first half of the 19th century, based on its first owners Mustafa-aga Morić and his son Ibrahim-aga.
Travelling through time, Morića Han has successfully caught up with the new times. In that way, life among its walls has been preserved in its entirety. People come and go, as they used to, but for different reasons. 51
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
DENDROTERAPIJA
Zagrli svoje drvo!
NEMA NIŠTA ROMANTIČNIJE NI LJEPŠE NEGO ŠETNJA KROZ ŠUMU, U ŠARENILU JESENI, KADA OPADA LIŠĆE I VJETAR ŠAPUĆE. OČI SE TADA PUNE LJEPOTOM, A DUŠA SPOKOJEM. MOŽDA STE POMISLILI, ALI NISTE ZAISTA ZNALI... DA, DRVEĆE MOŽE DA LIJEČI. 52
DENDROTERAPIJA – TERAPIJA DRVEĆEM Još odvajkada u narodnoj medicini postoji pravac liječenja uz pomoć drveća koja se naziva dendroterapija. U starim knjigama ima mnoštvo podataka o drveću koje liječi, a moderna nauka počela je da utvrđu je neke od tih narodnih mudrosti za koje se nije znalo da li su samo mit. Danas znamo da su japanski naučnici utvrdili kako je „kupanje“ u šumskom zraku ljekovito. Oni su utvrdili da mi u šumi udišemo esencijalna ulja šumskog drveća,
„U šumu odem
da izgubim razum i nađem dušu.“ John Muir
isparljive tvari koje se zovu fitoncidi, što povećava aktivnost i broj NK stanica u organizmu koje su poznate po antikancerogenom djelovanju i koje smanjuju stres. Kažu da najbolje
„Usvoji
tempo prirode.
Tajna joj je strpljenje.““ Ralph Waldo Emerson
liječe hrast, breza i bor, ali i bagrem, klen, jabuka, šljiva…
VRATITI SE PRIRODI Stara latinska poslovica kaže da do ktor liječi, a priroda ozdravljuje. Doba u kojem živimo, nažalost, čovjeka je u potpunosti otuđilo od prirode, što se negativno odrazilo na njegovo zdravlje. U medicinskoj terminologiji čak je zabilježen i novi – poremećaj pomanjkanja prirode. Stoga, danas više nego ikad, da bi se riješili stresa i napunili pozitivnom energijom čovjek treba da se vrati prirodi i da stalno ka
tome teži. Dovoljno je otići u šumu, zagrliti drvo i prepustiti se...
ZAGRLI SVOJE DRVO JOŠ DANAS Dendroterapeuti savjetuju drvo s glatkim deblom koje je malo udaljeno od ostalog drveća. Ne mora biti na osami, već je dovoljno da nije jako blizu drugim stablima. Približi se stablu prijateljski i s povjerenjem.
Pozdravi ga (u mislima ili naglas) i zagrli. Osjećaš li se tužno, napeto ili uzrujano, priljubi leđa i ruke uz drvo, kao da se skrivaš. Zatvori oči i opusti se. Započni s vježbama disanja koja će ti pravilno rasporediti energiju po organizmu. Disanje se sastoji od četiri faze: udisanje, zadržavanje zraka u plućima, izdisanje i stanka do idućeg uzdaha, kad su pluća prazna. Zagrljaj ne treba trajati duže od 5 minuta. 53
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
FOREST THERAPY
Hug Your Tree! THERE IS NOTHING MORE BEAUTIFUL OR ROMANTIC THAN GOING FOR A WALK IN THE FOREST IN THE COLOURFUL AUTUMN SEASON, WHEN LEAVES ARE FALLING AND THE WINDS ARE WHISPERING. OUR EYES FEAST ON CAPTIVATING LANDSCAPES, AND OUR SOULS ENJOY IN PEACE AND QUIET. YOU MAY HAVE THOUGHT THAT TREES HAVE HEALING POWERS, BUT YOU DID NOT REALLY KNOW THAT THEY ACTUALLY DO.
FOREST THERAPY— THERAPY OF TREES An ancient form of treatment practiced in folk medicine which uses trees to heal illnesses is called forest therapy. There is a substantial amount of data in old books about trees with healing properties, and modern science began to acknowledge the benefits of such medical folk wisdom that we thought was just a myth. Now we know that Japanese scientists have proved that the practice of “forest bathing” has the power to counter illnesses. They have found that we breathe in essential oils from 54
„Into the forest
I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.“ John Muir
trees, evaporating compounds called phytoncides, which lead to an increase in activity and in a type of white blood cell called NK cells, or natural killer cells—cells that protect hu-
mans from tumour formations and lower stress levels. They say that oak, birch and pine trees, but also acacia, field maple and plum trees heal best.
GOING BACK TO NATURE As the old Latin saying goes, the physician treats, nature cures. The times we live in, sadly, have alienated people from nature completely, and this has taken a toll on their health. A new medical term has been added to a list of illnesses—a nature-deficit disorder. So, today more than ever before, people need to go back to nature and keep in to-
uch with nature to relieve the stress and increase positive energy in their body. An outing in the woods to hug a tree and let go will do…
HUG YOUR TREE TODAY Tree therapists advise choosing a tree that has a smooth bark and is slightly further away from other trees. It does not have to be a lone tree; it just should not be too close to other trees. Get up close to the tree in a friendly and trusting way. Greet (whether in thought or out loud) and
„Adopt
the pace of nature.
Her secret is patience.“ Ralph Waldo Emerson
hug the tree. If you feel sad, anxious or upset, press your back and hands against it, as if you are hiding. Close your eyes and relax. Start doing a breathing exercise to help you properly distribute energy all over your body. Breathing includes these four phases: breathing in, keeping the air in your lungs, breathing out, and taking a break before breathing in again, when lungs are empty. Hugging a tree should last no longer than five minutes.
55
Prenj / Foto: Dženad Džino
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
PLANINARENJE U NAŠOJ ZEMLJI POSTAJE SVE POPULARNIJE, A TAKO I TREBA BITI JER JE PRIRODA U BOSANSKOHERCEGOVAČKOM RELJEFU IZVALJALA NEKE OD NAJLJEPŠIH PLANINA NA SVIJETU, SA NESTVARNIM PREDJELIMA I VIDIKOVCIMA OD KOJIH DAH NAPROSTO ZASTAJE. KVALITETNO SE PRIPREMITE ZA POHOD U PLANINE, A MI VAM PREPORUČUJEMO SAMO NEKE OD NAJBOLJIH KOJE MOŽETE POSJETITI. Autorica: Semra Hodžić 56
57
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Zelengora / Foto: Dženad Džino
PRENJ Ljubitelji planine Prenj nazivaju je Planetom, i ne samo odmilja, oni zaista znaju da ova prekrasna herce govačka planina u svojim njedrima krije neprocjenjiva prirodna bogatstva i smatraju je jednom od najljepših. Najviši vrh Prenja je Zelena Glava na 2.115 m.n.v, zatim Lupoglav, Otiš, Herač, Velika Kapa i drugi... A s njih pogled puca na jezera, rijeke, planine i gradove koji ih grle. Prenj je zalogaj za iskusne planinare i ljubitelje adrenalina. Ima dosta markiranih staza, ali i onih sa rijeđom markacijom, kao i mnogo stijena i zidova za koje je potrebna snaga i vještina da se pređu. No, ko se jednom uspne uz Prenj, on mu uđe u krvotok i vraća se kad god može. Ukoliko želite pohoditi ovu čarobnu planinu, preporučujemo da krenete sa vodičem ili na organizirani izlet s mnogobrojnim planinarskim društvima.
ČVRSNICA Po ljepoti i bogatstvu prirode, pla58
ninari izdvajaju još jednu hercegovačku planinu Čvrsnicu, sestrinsku planinu austrijskog Mt Plassena s pogledom na glečere. Najomiljeniji put na Čvrsnici vodi ka jednom od najljepših vidikovaca na bh. planinama - ka Hajdučkim vratima. Riječ
“Živimo
u brzom društvu.
Hodanje nas usporava.” Robert Sweetgall
je o prirodnom fenomenu, karakte rističnom prstenu u krečnjačkoj stijeni stvaranom vijekovima koji se nalazi na rubu kanjona Dive Grabovice. Hajdučka vrata se nalaze na 2.000 m n/v, ime su dobila po hajducima i odredište su brojnih planinara, zaljubljenika u prirodu, kao
i fotografa, koji odavde mogu uživati u zaista neprocjenjivom pogledu na Divu Grabovicu, stijenu Velikog Kuka, Čabulju, Velež, Prenj itd. Noć je lijepo provesti u čuvenom planinarskom domu Vilinac, a sutradan se prošetati do najvišeg planinskog jezera u BiH s pitkom vodom – jezera Crvenjak.
ZELENGORA Planinari se teško odlučuju za najljepšu planinu, ali za Zelengoru ka žu da ona to jeste. Ime joj je simbo lično, ali istinito, jer Zelengora je zaista kao ćilimom prekrivena šu mama, pašnjacima i cvijetnim planinskim poljima, a posebnu draž čine njene „gorske oči“ – nekoliko glacijalnih jezera smještenih u samim podnožjima njenih vrhova. Nalazi se u sklopu Nacionalnog parka Sutjeska i planinari je rado pohode prateći markirane staze i puteve koji vode do četiri planinska doma: Bogunovac, Dobre vode, Donje bare i Orlovačko jezero u kojima se može i prenoćiti, pa duže uživati u čistom zraku i prekrasnoj prirodi.
Maglić / Foto: Muamer Drugovac
MAGLIĆ Izgrađen od permskih stijena i obrastao gustom bukovom i crnogoričnom šumom, prekriven pašnjacima, grebenima i visovima, Maglić je planina s najvišim vrhom u Bosni i Hercegovini, čaroban u svojoj ljepoti i veliki izazov za planinare. Nalazi se oko 20 km jugozapadno od Foče, u sastavu je Nacionalnog parka Sutjeska, i omeđen je rijekama Sutjeskom, Drinom i Pivom, te planinama Volujak i Bioč. Maglić je
OPREMA ZA PLANINARENJE Kada je planinarenje u pitanju važno je da budete dobro opremljeni, a najprije da budete u udobnoj odjeći i obući. Planinarenje nije obična šetnja, zahtjevno je i možete se povrijediti stoga je važno da bude u adekvatnoj obući. Prije nego što krenete na pohod informišite se o vremenu, terenu, nadmorskoj visini, okolišu kojim ćete planinariti, a zatim prilagodite opremu vašim potrebama. O opremi koja vas zanima ili vam je potrebna pitajte planinare! Sve navedene planine mogu se obići i u zimskom periodu, ali naravno uz odgovarajuću opremu i iskustvo. Ukoliko to želite, preporučujemo da imate profesionalnog planinarskog vodiča ili se pridružite nekom od planinskih društava koji organiziraju neke od ovih tura.
Foto: Muamer Drugovac 59
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Čvrsnica / Foto: Muamer Drugovac
Čvrsnica / Fotografije: Muamer Drugovac
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poseban po tome što se na njemu nalazi Perućica, najveća prašuma u Evropi te veliki cirk Urdeni dolovi sa Trnovačkim jezerom na 1.517 m, koje je prirodni fenomen u obliku srca, na samoj granici sa Crnom Gorom. Na samoj granici se nalazi i njegov najviši vrh koji iznosi 2.386 metara nadmorske visine.
VISOČICA Još jedna planina o kojoj planinari pričaju sa oduševljenjem je Visočica, prirodna granica između Bosne i Hercegovine, bogata brojnim
“Najbolji pogled dolazi nakon
najtežeg uspona.” Sir Edmund Hillary
pašnjacima, visokim i markantnim vrhovima, nekropolama sa stećcima i divljim konjima. Samo ime joj kaže da je visoka, a njeni najistaknutiji vrhovi su Džamija na 1967 m n/v, zatim Veliki Ljeljen, Vito, Subar i svakako Puzim u kojeg se zagledamo još sa Bjelašnice. Sa svih strana okružena je rijekama, a za vrijeme sezone na njoj se pojavljuju i jezera, od kojih je najljepše Veliko jezero. Predlažemo vam put prema vrhu Vito koji vodi markiranom stazom najprije pašnjacima, zatim strmom usponu, a pogled koji se s njega pruža vrijedit će svakog napora.
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Prenj / Photo: Dženad Džino
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TOP 5
Most Wonderful Hiking Spots in Bosnia and Herzegovina
HIKING HAS LATELY BECOME INCREASINGLY POPULAR IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA JUST AS IT SHOULD BECAUSE EARTH HAS CARVED UP SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST WONDERFUL MOUNTAINS THAT FORM BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA’S LANDSCAPE. ITS PICTURESQUE AND SURREAL AREAS AND VANTAGE POINTS TAKE ONE’S BREATH AWAY. GEAR UP PROPERLY TO HEAD OUT TO THE MOUNTAINS, AND WE WILL RECOMMEND JUST SOME OF THE BEST. Written by: Semra Hodžić
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Čvrsnica / Photo: Dženad Džino
PRENJ Lovers of Prenj Mountain call it Planet Prenj. It is not just a term of endearment—they know that this gorgeous Herzegovinian mountain keeps in its bosom invaluable natural resources, and they believe Prenj is one of the loveliest B&H mountains. Its highest peak is Zelena Glava (Green Head) sitting at an altitude of 2.115 metres above sea level, then follow Lupoglav, Otiš, Herač, Velika Kapa and others... The views of lakes, rivers, mountains and towns that embrace them are unbeatable from here. Prenj poses a challenge to experienced hikers and adrenaline junkies. The trails are well marked, but there are those that are not, and there are plenty of rocks and walls requiring both strength and skill to climb. But, those who manage to climb Prenj Mountain once, they keep coming back whenever they can because it gets in their blood. If you want to visit to this, we would suggest you go with a mountain 64
guide or organised trip with one of the numerous hiking societies.
ČVRSNICA Hikers single out another Herzegovinian mountain, Čvrsnica Mountain, because of its stunningly beautiful
“We live
in a fast-paced society. Walking slows us down.” Robert Sweetgall
points in B&H mountains—Hajdučka vrata. It is a natural phenomenon, a characteristic ring made of limestone that took centuries to take its present shape. It is located at the very edge of Diva Grabovica canyon at an elevation of 2,000 metres above sea level. Hajdučka vrata was named after outlaws (the Outlaw’s Door). A large number of hikers, nature enthusiasts and photographers frequent it because from here they are treated to priceless views of Diva Grabovica, Veliki Kuk rocks, Čabulja, Velež and Prenj mountains, etc. It is nice to spend the night in the renowned mountain lodge called Vilinac, and hike to Crvenjak Lake, the highest B&H mountain lake with drinkable water, the next day.
ZELENGORA and rich natural landscape. With its views of the glaciers, Čvrsnica Mountain resembles Austrian Mt Plassen. The most favourite route among hikers leads to one of the best vantage
It is rather difficult for hikers to say which mountain is the most gorgeous one, but they say that Zelengora really is the most gorgeous B&H mountain. Its name is symbolic, but
Maglić / Photo: Muamer Drugovac true, because the Green Mountain truly is a carpet covered with forests, pastures and flowery meadows. Its most valuable feature are several glacial lakes, also known as „mountain eyes“, situated at the foot of its peaks. Zelengora is a part of Sutjeska National Park and hikers love to
Zelengora / Photo: Muamer Drugovac explore its marked trails and paths leading up to four mountain lodges: Bogunovac, Dobre vode, Donje bare and Orlovačko Lake offering accommodation which allows you to savour the clean air and wonderful natural landscapes longer.
MAGLIĆ Made of Permian rocks and overgrown with thick beech and coniferous forest, abundant in pastures, ridges and peaks, Maglić is the highest peak of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is magical in its own right and a major
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Zelengora / Photo: Muamer Drugovac
The best view comes after
the hardest climb. Sir Edmund Hillary
challenge for any hiker. Located about 20 km south-west from Foča, it is a part of Sutjeska National Park and borders with Sutjeska, Drina and Piva rivers, and Volujak and Bioč mountains. Maglić is quite special because the largest European primeval forest, and a large cirque Urdeni Dolovi with Trnovačko Lake at 1,517 metres, which is a natural phenomenon in the shape of a heart at the border with Montenegro, are situated there. Its highest peak at an elevation of 66
2,386 metres above sea level is also situated at the very border.
VISOČICA Visočica is another mountain hikers love to talk about with great enthusiasm. It is a natural border between Bosnia and Herzegovina, rich with pastures, high and exposed peaks, medieval tombstone necropolises, and wild horses. Its very name suggests that it is tall, and its most prominent peaks are Džamija (Mosque) at 1967 meters above sea level, then Veliki Ljeljen, Vito, Subar and, by all means, Puzim which makes us gaze at it while we are as far back as on Bjelašnica Mountain. Visočica Mountain is surrounded by rivers on all sides, and there are seasonal lakes there too. The most attractive is Veliko jezero (the Great Lake). We would suggest going along a marked trail across pastures and then taking a steep climb towards the peak called Vito offering views which will make it worth your while.
HIKING GEAR When it comes to hiking, it is important for you to gear up properly. First of all, you need to have comfortable clothes and shoes. Hiking requires more effort than walking; it is demanding, and if you do not wear proper shoes, you might injure yourself. Before you venture out to climb a mountain, be sure to check the weather, the terrain, the altitude, and the area you will hike through, and then gear up according to your needs. Ask a fellow hiker about the gear you need or are interested in! You can visit any mountain even in wintertime, but this requires having proper gear and experience. If this is something you want to do, we would recommend hiring a hiking guide or joining a hiking society that organises such hiking tours.
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
STARINSKA BOSANSKA DUŠA JOŠ UVIJEK DIŠE NA SVAKOM KORAKU U TRAVNIČKIM MAHALAMA, U KOJIMA SE JOŠ UVIJEK MOGU ČUTI PRIČE IZ DAVNINA KOJE SU PROSLAVILE GRAD. I MNOŠTVO JE RAZLOGA ZA POSJETITI GA...
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WITH EACH STEP YOU MAKE, YOU FEEL THE PRESENCE OF AN OLD BOSNIAN SOUL IN TRAVNIK’S QUARTERS WHERE OLD TALES OF THE TOWN’S GLORIOUS PAST CAN BE HEARD EVEN NOW. THERE ARE MANY REASONS TO VISIT IT…
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1. VEZIRSKI GRAD
1. TOWN OF BOSNIA’S VIZIERS
Travnik je poznat kao grad vezira – u njemu ih je stolovalo ukupno 77. Bio je 150 godina sjedište bosanskog pašaluka i sjedište dva konzulata. Prvi put se spominje 1463. godine kada je kroz njega prošao sultan Mehmed II Osvajač u svom pohodu na Jajce.
Travnik is famed as the town of Bosnia’s viziers—77 of them reigned from here. For 150 years, Travnik served as the seat of the Bosnian governorate and the seat of two consulates. The earliest reference to Travnik dates from 1464. Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror stayed in Travnik before proceeding to conquer Jajce.
2. SREDNJOVJEKOVNA TVRĐAVA Jedan od najvažnijih simbola grada zidine su srednjovjekovne tvrđave s koje se pruža nevjerovatan pogled na travničku čaršiju. Do tvrđave se penjete mahalama sa starim bosanskim kućama i sve vrijeme ćete se osjećati kao da ste prošli kroz vrijeme. Na vrh uzbrdice kameni je mostić preko kojeg stižete na drvene kapije Starog grada. Ulaz se plaća simbolično, a unutra vas dočekuje prekrasna tvrđava i izložbeni prostor koji će vam prikazati kako se u Travniku nekada živjelo. Prostor tvrđave omiljen je i za photoshootinge, pa ne propustite priliku i sami napraviti nekoliko odličnih fotografija!
2. MEDIEVAL FORTRESS One of Travnik’s most distinctive symbols are the ramparts of a medieval fortress with splendid views of čaršija, the town centre, below. You can access the fortress by walking up past several town quarters dotted with old Bosnian houses and all the while you feel as if you have
travelled back in time. On the hilltop, there is a little stone bridge which leads you to the Old Town’s wooden gates. Paying a symbolic entrance fee allows you to explore the gorgeous fortress and an exhibition area where you can see how people used to live here back in the day. The fortress is a great photo shoot location so do no miss out on a chance to snap a few wonderful photos!
3. SUNČANI SAT
3. SUNDIAL
Travnik se može pohvaliti i sunčanim satom. Ne zna se ni kada ni ko ga je izgradio, ni da li je bio postavljen negdje drugo. No, u vrijeme kad nije bilo digitalnih satova služio je cijeloj čaršiji. Po njemu su se podešavali i mehanički satovi ugrađeni na dvije gradske sahat-kule, kao i ručni satovi imućnijih Travničana koji su u to vrijeme bili istinski raritet. Pored Travnika, sunčani sat u BiH postoji još samo u Tuzli.
Travnik also boasts a sundial (solar ‘clock’). We do not know when or who made it or whether or not it was located somewhere else, but at the time when there were no digital clocks, it served as the town’s principal timepiece. It was also used to set the time on mechanical clocks installed on the town’s two tower clocks and on pocket watches, a prized possession of the wealthy gentlemen in Travnik and a true rarity at the time. Tuzla is the only other place in B&H to have a sundial.
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4. JEDINI GRAD U BIH S DVIJE SAHAT-KULE Sada će vam zvučati kao da je vrijeme u Travniku izuzetno bitno, ali ono protječe kao i svugdje drugo i za tren oka vam prođe dan, a vi se nagledali silne ljepote i kulturno-historijskog bogatstva. Među neprocjenjivim blagom koje je izgrađeno u vezirskom gradu su i dvije 20-metarske kule iz 18. stoljeća koje su podigli veziri da bi im na sve četiri strane Gornje i Donje čaršije otkucavale vrijeme i bile orijentacija. Po BiH ih ima nekoliko, čak i u blizini Travnika, ali nigdje u BiH nemaju dvije u jednom gradu.
4. ONLY B&H TOWN WITH TWO CLOCK TOWERS Now, it may seem to you that time is quite important in Travnik, but here it goes by just like anywhere else, and in the blink of an eye, your day seems to have passed quickly while you were taking in all the wonderful sights and rich cultural and historic heritage sites. Priceless structures built in the town of Bosnia’s viziers include two 20-meter, 18th-century stone clock towers erected by the viziers to track time on all four sides of the Upper and Lower čaršija and to facilitate orientation. There are several clock towers scattered throughout B&H, even in the vicinity of Travnik, but there is no other town in B&H with two clock towers.
5. GRAD NOBELOVCA „Niko nikad u Travniku nije ni pomislio da je to varoš stvorena za običan život i svagdašnje događaje“, riječi su jedinog bosanskohercegovačkog Nobelovca iz oblasti književnosti Ive Andrića koji je rođen baš u ovom gradu na bistroj rijeci Lašvi. Andrić se rodio u mahali Zenjak na broju 9, gdje se i danas nalazi njegova rodna kuća tipične bosanske arhitekture koja je pretvorena u muzej. U njoj ćete danas naći spomen na ovog velikog pisca poput rodne sobe – posvećene romanu Travnička hronika, fototeke s dodjele Nobelove nagrade, biblioteke s umjetničkom zbirkom i “slušaonice”.
5. NOBEL PRIZE LAUREATE’S TOWN “No one in Travnik had ever supposed that the town was made for an ordinary life and for the workaday grind,” wrote Ivo Andrić, the only Bosnian-Herzegovinian Nobel Prize Laureate in Literature. Travnik, the laureate’s birthplace, is situated in the valley of the Lašva River. Andrić
was born at house number 9 in Zenjak, a Travnik quarter. His birth house, typical of Bosnian architecture, still stands there and was turned into a museum. The museum features a birth room dedicated to the novel “Travnik Chronicles”, photographs from the Nobel Prize Award Ceremony, a library with an art collection and an audio guide. 71
BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
6. TURISTIČKI VOZ „ĆIRO“ Jedna od najinteresantnijih atrakcija Travnika je turistički voz nazvan po popularnom Ćiri, s kojim je lakše obilaziti grad i njegove znamenitosti. Opremljen je modernom audioopremom koja omogućava putnicima da na nekoliko svjetskih jezika saznaju zanimljivosti o objektima i lokacijama pored kojih prolaze. Polazi sa Plave vode, prema Starom gradu i Bašbunaru, Šarenoj džamiji i čaršiji, i nazad.
6. “ĆIRO” TOURIST TRAIN One of the most interesting attractions in Travnik is a tourist train named after the popular Ćiro train, which makes it easier to explore the town and its landmarks. Equipped with a modern sound system, it allows passengers to discover interesting details about various buildings and locations along the way in several world languages. The train leaves from Plave vode taking passengers on a tour of the Old Town and Bašbunar, Šarena džamija and čaršija, and then taking them back to the departure station.
8. BLIZINA VLAŠIĆA Kod Travnika je fantastično i što se za samo pola sata vožnje može stići do pitome planine čudesnih pejzaža, najpopularnije u ovom dijelu BiH – Vlašića. A na Vlašiću gotovo uvijek dobra zabava tokom cijele godine, mnogobrojni događaji, vrhunske ski-staze, odlične staze za planinarenje i brdski biciklizam i vodopadi Ilomske do kojih je užitak prošetati. Na Vlašiću možete sresti i autohtonu bosansku pasminu pasa – tornjake kako čuvaju stada i pomažu pastirima, ali i kupiti nadaleko poznati vlašićki sir.
7. PLAVA VODA Plava voda je neizostavno svratište svih onih koji dolaze u Travnik. Voda izvire iz stijene i huči cijelim svojim tokom do Lašve čineći ugođaj neprocjenjivim i opuštajućim. Najljepše fotografije nastaju upravo ovdje, tu se kupuju suveniri, hrane ribice, i naravno, sa Plave vode se ne ide dok se ne popije kahva – obavezno Lutvina koja se servira uz cigaretu i šibice.
7. PLAVA VODA (BLUE WATER) Plava voda (Blue water) is a must stop for anyone visiting Travnik. The water gushes from under a rock and burbles all the way down to the Lašva Valley creating a beautiful and relaxing setting. The best photos can be captured right here. You also can buy souvenirs, feed fish, and indeed, you cannot leave Plave vode without having a cup of coffee—at Lutvo’s Café in particular, where coffee is served with a cigarette and matches. 72
8. CLOSE TO VLAŠIĆ MOUNTAIN What is great about Travnik is that it is just a 30-minute drive from Travnik to a tame mountain with wondrous landscapes, the most popular mountain in this part of B&H—Vlašić Mountain. Vlašić Mountain offers a lot of great fun throughout the year, a number of events, world-class ski slopes, great hiking and mountain cycling trails, and Ilomska Waterfalls which make for a pleasant walk. In the mountain, you can come across the tornjak, a breed of shepherd dogs native to Bosnia, guarding sheep and assisting shepherds in herding and tending to flocks of sheep, but you can also buy widely popular Vlašić Cheese.
9. CULTURAL AND HISTORIC HERITAGE Travnik is rich in history. You can learn so much about it in just one day. Apart from town symbols we already mentioned, one of the more intriguing Travnik attractions is the recently restored Šarena (Many-coloured or Ornamented) or Sulejmanija džamija (Sulejmanija Mosque) nestled in the heart of the old čaršija, drawing visitors for its unusual colourful decorations on the façade, but also on the inside walls. Other attractions include Hajji Ali Bey Mosque, Elchi Ibrahim Pasha Mosque, Heritage Museum in Travnik and Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Travnik, some of which were proclaimed as national monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
9. KULTURNO-HISTORIJSKO BOGATSTVO Grad je to s bogatom historijom o kojem čak i za samo jedan dan možete mnoštvo toga naučiti. Pored već izdvojenih simbola grada, jedan od najatraktivnijih je nedavno restaurirana Šarena ili Sulejmanija džamija u srcu stare čaršije, koja plijeni pažnju zbog neobičnih likovnih dekoracija na njenom vanjskom zidu, ali i u unutrašnjosti. Tu su još i Hadži Ali-begova džamija, Elči Ibrahim-pašina medresa, Zavičajni muzej u Travniku, Crkva Uspenja Presvete Bogorodice u Travniku, a neki od njih proglašeni su i nacionalnim spomenicima Bosne i Hercegovine.
10. TRAVNIČKI SIR I ĆEVAPI Gotovo da nema putnika namjernika koji prođe kroz Travnik a da ne svrati negdje da kupi čuvenog vlašićkog i travničkog sira. No, u Travniku se ne propušta svratiti i na legendarne ćevape koji uvijek vode bitku za najbolje sa sarajevskim i banjalučkim, a po serviranju razlikuju se i u lepini.
10. TRAVNIK CHEESE AND ĆEVAPI Almost every traveller stops and buys renowned Vlašić and Travnik Cheese while travelling through Travnik. However, stopping by to eat a somewhat legendary meal in Travnik— travnički ćevapi (a small rolled patty of ground meat, usually beef, seasoned with paprika, and served in a flatbread often with chopped onions or sour cream—depending on the town they are prepared in), always competing with sarajevski and banjalučki ćevapi for the title of the best ćevapi, is also a must. 73
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OĆEVIJA
Selo kovača S OČARAVAJUĆIM VODOPADOM I IZLETIŠTEM
U MAGIČNOM OKRUŽENJU PLANINE ZVIJEZDA, NADOMAK VAREŠA, SMJESTILO SE NA PRVI POGLED SASVIM OBIČNO BOSANSKO SELO OĆEVIJA. NO, KADA UGLEDATE “MAJDANE” ILI KOVAČNICE, UBRZO ĆE VAM POSTATI JASNO DA JE TO POSLJEDNJE MJESTO U EVROPI GDJE SE ŽELJEZO KUJE NA TRADICIONALNI PREDINDUSTRIJSKI NAČIN, ODNOSNO DA SE KAO U SREDNJEM VIJEKU TOPI I IZRAĐUJE UZ POMOĆ VODENE ENERGIJE. Autorica: Semra Hodžić
TRADICIJA STARA 800 GODINA Prvi put u pisanim izvorima ovo jedinstveno selo, svjedok rudarske prošlosti vareškog kraja, se spominje 1485. godine. Pripovijeda se da je neki misionar Italijan putovao iz Kraljevske Sutjeske i Vareša prema Olovu pa je odmarajući se na mjestu gdje je sada selo stalno ponavljao “Oh, che via!” (“Oh, kakav put!”). Tako se prozvala Okevija, Oćevija. Danas se u njemu njeguje proces star preko 800 godina. U selu još uvijek postoje tri aktivne kovačnice u kojima se uglavnom proizvode poljoprivredne alatke i sačevi, predmeti koji svoje kupce imaju širom Bosne i Hercegovine ali i u inostranstvu. Nekada su kovačnice zapošljavale desetine ljudi koji su dolazili iz susjednih sela tu na rad, a pravile su se i potkovice i motike. Stanovnici 74
Oćevije i danas vrijedno rade, čuvajući tradiciju svoga kraja sa željom da umijeće kovanja željeza prenesu na mlađe generacije.
SPOMENIK PRIRODE Uz “majdane” se nalazi i prekrasni vodopad, na rječici koja ih pokreće i koja napaja vareški kraj, a prizor koji će vas tu zateći neće vas ostaviti ravnodušnim. Vodopad rijeke Oćevije je ujedno i spomenik prirode pod posebnim režimom zaštite. Uz vodopad je i izletište, gdje svi posjetioci mogu donijeti svoju hranu i piće i u ugodnom ambijentu, na svježem zraku odmoriti na klupama i provesti lijep dan u prirodi!
SEOSKI TURIZAM Iskoristite priliku posjetiti i okolna sela te doživjeti iskonski seoski turizam. Odmorite se u nekim od seo-
skih domaćinstava, pažljivo i s puno ljubavi uređenih u tradicionalnom stilu, gdje vas čekaju još i prelijepa priroda, kao i vrhunski specijaliteti ovog kraja – kvalitetno meso i vareški sir.
KAKO DOĆI? Ako krenete iz Vareša, proći ćete kroz prirodni tunel o kojem se priča da u njemu živi rijetka vrsta slijepih miševa. Iz tunela krenut ćete krivudavim šumskim putem uz planinski prijevoj Zvijezde. Potom ulazite u kotlinu, ravni plato koji se prostire na oko 1.400 metara nadmorske visine preko kojeg nastavljate još krivudavijim putem naniže do mjesta Oćevija. U Oćeviju se može doći i iz pravca Olova preko Mižnovića.
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OĆEVIJA
Blacksmiths' Village WITH A STUNNING WATERFALL AND AN OUTING AREA
IN THE ENCHANTING ENVIRONMENT SURROUNDING ZVIJEZDA (STAR) MOUNTAIN, JUST OUTSIDE OF VAREŠ, WHAT SEEMS LIKE AN ORDINARY BOSNIAN VILLAGE OF OĆEVIJA AT FIRST GLANCE IS SETTLED. HOWEVER, WHEN YOU SPOT “MEJDANI” OR BLACKSMITHS’ WORKSHOPS, IT TURNS OUT THAT THIS IS THE LAST PLACE IN EUROPE WHERE IRON IS MANUFACTURED USING THE IRON MANUFACTURE METHOD DATING BACK TO THE TIMES PRIOR TO THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION, I.E. JUST LIKE IN THE MIDDLE AGES, IRON IS SMELTED AND THEN SMITHED USING WATER ENERGY. Autorica: Semra Hodžić
TRADITION DATING BACK 800 YEARS The earliest written reference to this unique village, a witness to the mining days of the Vareš area, dates from 1485. People say that, on his way from Kraljeva Sutjeska and Vareš to Olovo, an Italian missionary stopped to take a rest at the exact place where the village is located today and kept repeating these words: 76
“Oh, che via!” (“Oh, what a wonderful landscape!”). That is how Okevija, Oćevija was named. A tradition dating back 800 years is still kept here. Three blacksmiths’ workshops are still active in the village. The products manufactured in these workshops are agricultural tools and sač (a large metal lid like a shallow bell with which food to be baked is covered, and over which ashes and live coals are placed), items that custo-
mers throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina and from abroad commonly buy. Blasksmiths’ workshops used to employ a few dozen people who would come to work from neighbouring villages, and they would also manufacture horseshoes and hoes. The people of Oćevije are diligent even today as they are trying to preserve the local tradition aiming to pass down the smithing skill on to the younger generations.
NATURAL MONUMENT Not far from “majdani”, there is also a stunning waterfall on a small river whose waters are used to generate power for them and to supply the area with water. The landscape in the area will take your breath away. The waterfall on the Oćevija River is also a natural monument under a special protection system. Near the waterfall, there is an outing area where visitors can bring food and drinks with them and spend a lovely day in a wonderful natural setting,
HOW TO REACH IT? sitting on benches and resting in the fresh air!
RURAL TOURISM Use the opportunity to visit the neighbouring villages and experience rural tourism as it once was. Have a rest in one of the village houses decorated with traditional style fur�nishings with great care and much love. Gorgeous natural landscapes, as well as first-class local culinary specialties—meat and Vareš cheese, await you.
If you leave from Vareš, go through a naturally formed tunnel people say a rare type of bats lives in. Take a winding road through the woods taking you up the Zvijezda mountain pass. Then enter a valley, a flat plateau situated at 1,400 metres above sea level, and move along a road much more winding than the previous one going downwards to Oćevija. You can reach Oćevija from Olovo through Mižnovići too.
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Doboj
Grad na tri rijeke
NEKADA SE GOVORILO DA KUD GOD DA PO BOSNI KRENETE, MORATE KROZ DOBOJ, JER JE OVAJ GRAD NAJVEĆA RASKRSNICA PUTEVA JOŠ OD VREMENA BIVŠE JUGOSLAVIJE. I GOTOVO DA NEMA ONOG KOJI S PUTA NIJE UGLEDAO STARU DOBOJSKU TVRĐAVU I POŽELIO DA SE BAŠ NA NJU POPNE, PA UKOLIKO U NJEGA SVRATI VIDI DA GRAD STAR VIŠE OD ŠEST STOTINA STOLJEĆA, KOJEG OBAVIJAJU TRI RIJEKE: BOSNA, SPREČA I USORA, IMA ŠTOŠTA DA PONUDI.
„U
Usori pod tvrđavom Doboj“, između obronaka Borije i Ozrena i na širokoj ravnici, nastao je grad koji se prvi put spominje 1415. godine, na 28. juni kada se obilježava i Dan Doboja. Naseljavali su ga još drevni Iliri od davnina, o čemu svjedoče ostaci brojnih zidina i tvrđava koje su oko njega gradili, ali ipak o tim starim vremenima danas najljepše priča srednjovjekovna tvrđava iznad grada – ponos i simbol Doboja, koju mještani nazivaju Gradina. Ta-
Autorica: Semra Hodžić
AKTIVNI ODMOR U DOBOJU U Doboj rado svraćaju i gosti željni adrenalina, a Dobojlije uvijek nađu za svakoga ponešto. Lokalni paraglajderski klub nudi letove, a gostima su još na raspolaganju i obilasci pećina u okruženju, paintball, planinarenje na Boriju ili Ozren, te vožnje biciklom.
dašnji su neimari podigli zidine visoke metar, i kule osmatračnice, koje je danas lijepo posjetiti, osjetiti dah prošlog vremena i probati zamisliti kakve su se bitke ovdje nekada vodile. Mještani, kažu, da se sa tvrđave prostire takav pogled na panoramu grada da se može prebrojati svaka kuća u njemu.
LEGENDARNI ĆIRO Iako kroz Doboj i danas prolaze vozovi, nekada je važio za važno že-
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ljezničko čvorište bivše Jugoslavije. Kao uspomenu na vremena kad su kroz grad tutnjale lokomotive legendarnog voza Ćire, u srcu grada danas je sačuvana jedna od njih, lijepa i blještava kao da je tek izašla iz fabrike, jer je zaštićena od korozije i propadanja. Iza nje je željeznička upravna zgrada u kojoj je danas sjedište Željeznica RS. Dobojlije će vam rado i ispričati anegdotu koja se tu priča još od prvih dana kad su vozovi počeli tutnjati kroz grad i ispuštati oblake dima dok prolaze, a to je da su vozove nazivali „šejtan arabama“.
DOBOJSKA ČARŠIJA Kada ste već u centru grada ne propustite vidjeti kako živi dobojska čaršija. U samo nekoliko stotina metara u njoj možete vidjeti katoličku i pravoslavnu crkvu, džamiju Selimiju, jevrejsku sinagogu i na kraju Regionalni muzej Doboj iz 1956. godine, čuvar tradicije ovog kraja, pred kojim su izloženi i srednjovjekovni stećci. Šetnju možete upotpuniti i kroz gradski park koji vodi do najvećeg gradskog hotela, a osvježiti se možete u poznatim dobojskim restoranima Čarda i Harizma. Preporučujemo i da svratite do slasti80
SKELOM PREKO BOSNE Stari mještani sjećaju se da, kada nije bilo ni mostova ni čamaca, preko rijeke Bosne, kao i preko drugih rijeka u BiH, prelazilo se skelom. U naselju Kotorsko kraj Doboja i danas se po simboličnoj cijeni možete skelom prevesti preko rijeke Bosne i uživati u ljepotama ove rijeke po kojoj je naša domovina dobila ime. Poseban će to doživljaj biti za mališane! čarne Medenjak, da probate komad torte koja je dobile ime po legendarnoj pjevačici narodne muzike Silvani Armenulić, koja je rođena u Doboju.
GORANSKO JEZERO Kada su gorani prije više od 50 godina pošumljavali podnožje planine Ozren kod Doboja, inicirali su i pravljenje vještačkog jezera na rječici Jošavi, koje danas nosi ime po njihovom čuvenom pokretu – Goransko jezero. Danas služi za odmor i rekreaciju, za vrijeme sezone u njemu spas od vrućina traže Dobojlije, a svake godine na njemu se održavaju i susreti gorana cijele
regije. Od jezera pješačka staza vodi do Sportsko-rekreacionog centra Preslica na kojem se nalazi i mali zoološki vrt, a u šetnji ćete uživati u gustoj borovoj šumi koju su zasadili gorani. Na jezeru se može još i roštiljati, kampovati, a uz njega ima i restoran, te dječija igraonica. Pored Goranskog, Dobojlije rado odlaze i na jezero Rudanka, udaljeno samo nekoliko minuta vožnje od grada.
ETNO-SELO KOTROMANIĆEVO U dobojskom naselju Šešlije, pored bistre rječice Veličanke, smješteno je veoma popularno turističko etno-selo Kotromanićevo. Osjećat ćete se kao da ste otputovali vremenskom mašinom u srednji vijek, jer će se pred vama u potpuno prirodnom ambijentu pojaviti 12 kućica izgrađenih u srednjovjekovnom stilu, ali moderno opremljenih. U sklopu sela nalaze se i sportski tereni, suvenirnica, kao i veliki restoran u kojem možete probati vrhunsku domaću kuhinju. Osim u ovom atraktivnom selu, ugodan ambijent u prirodi i dobru hranu možete potražiti i u kompleksu „Ribarska priča“.
Doboj A City on Three Rivers
PEOPLE USED TO SAY THAT, WHEREVER YOU WENT IN BOSNIA, YOU HAD TO GO THROUGH DOBOJ, BECAUSE THIS CITY HAS BEEN THE LARGEST ROAD JUNCTION SINCE THE TIME OF THE FORMER YUGOSLAVIA. AND THERE IS HARDLY ANYONE WHO HAS NOT SEEN DOBOJ FORTRESS TRAVELLING ACROSS THE LANDSCAPE AND HAS NOT WISHED TO CLIMB THE HILL UP TO THE FORTRESS. IF THEY HAPPENED TO BRIEFLY VISIT IT, THEY WOULD SEE THAT THE CITY WHICH DATES BACK MORE THAN 6,000 YEARS AND WHICH IS SURROUNDED BY THREE RIVERS: BOSNIA, SPREČA AND USORA, HAS GOT A LOT TO OFFER. Author: Semra Hodžić
FINEST VIEW OF ANY HOUSE IN THE CITY FROM GRADINA “In Usora, at the foot of Doboj Fortress,” among the foothills of Borije and Ozren, on a wide flatland, a town came into being. The earliest known reference to Doboj dates from 1415, from 28 June, which is celebrated as the City Day of Doboj. Ancient Illyrians inhabited the area since ancient times and this is reflected in the remains of a large number of ramparts and fortresses they built around it. And yet, the best stories of old times past are told by the medieval fortress situated above the city of Doboj—its pride and joy—which the
locals refer to as Gradina. Back in the day, builders erected ramparts reaching one meter and watchtowers, and it is a great place to visit, feel the spirit of the old times and
ACTIVE HOLIDAY IN DOBOJ Visitors in pursuit of an adrenaline rush love to frequent Doboj, and the people of Doboj always find something fun for them to do. The local paragliding club offers paragliding flights, but visitors can also go exploring the nearby caves, paintballing, hiking in Borije or Ozren, and cycling.
try to picture the battles that were fought here. The locals say that the fortress offers the finest panoramic views of the city allowing you to count each house in the valley.
LEGENDARY ĆIRO TRAIN Even though trains still keep passing through Doboj, it used to be an important railway junction in the former Yugoslavia. A memory of the time when legendary Ćiro train locomotive stomped through the city is preserved today—a gorgeous and gleaming locomotive, lying in city centre, seems like it has just rolled off the production line because it is protected against corrosion and wear damage. Behind the locomotive 81
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TAKE A FERRY BOAT TO CROSS THE BOSNIA RIVER Old locals remember that, back in the day when there were no bridges or boats, you had to use a ferry boat to cross the Bosnia River or any other river in B&H. In the Kotorsko neighbourhood, just outside of Doboj, you can take a ferry boat to cross the Bosnia River for a small charge and enjoy a ride down this beautiful river our country was named after. It will be quite an adventure for the little ones! is an administrative building which is now the seat of RS Railways. The people of Doboj will be happy to tell you an amusing story that is narrated from the time the trains first started to puff through the city billowing out clouds of smoke as they sped across Doboj: trains are called “šejtan arabe” or “devil’s carriages”.
ČARŠIJA IN DOBOJ Since you are already in the city centre, be sure to see how the čaršija in Doboj lives. Within a few hundred metres, there is a Catholic and an Orthodox church, the Selimiye Mosque, the Jewish synagogue and finally Doboj Regional Museum dating back to 1956, the area’s tradition keeper, displaying medieval tombstones in the courtyard. You can also stroll through the city park to Doboj’s largest 82
hotel, and freshen up in Čarda and Harizma, renowned city restaurants. We recommend popping into Medenjak Cake Shop for a piece of cake named after legendary Doboj-born folk singer Silvana Armenulić.
GORANSKO LAKE When volunteers were afforesting the foothills of Ozren Mountain in the vicinity of Doboj more than 50 years ago, they also initiated the creation of an artificial lake on the small Jošava River which bears the name after their popular movement—Goransko Lake. It is now a relaxation and recreation area; in high season, the people of Doboj escape the scortching summer heat at the lake, and volunteers from across the region organise get-togethers here every year. A walking trail
leads up to the Preslica Sports and Recreation Centre featuring a mini zoo. You can enjoy walking through a thick pine forest planted by volunteers too. You can camp out and grill food by the lake, and there is also a restaurant and a playground for children. Apart from visiting Goransko Lake, the people of Doboj love to frequent Rudanka Lake only a few minutes away from the city.
KOTROMANIĆ ETHNOVILLAGE In Doboj’s Šešlije neighbourhood ,by the clear waters of Veličanka River, Kotromanić Ethno-village ,a rather popular site among tourists ,is situated .You will feel as if you travelled to the Middle Ages using a time machine 12 :little houses ,designed in a medieval architectural style but furnished in the contemporary style, all set in a natural landscape ,will appear before you .The village also features sports grounds ,a souvenir shop ,a large restaurant where you can taste the local culinary specialties .Apart from this attractive village ,the“ Fishing Story ”complex also offers visitors a natural setting with a warm ambience and tasty food.
Maldivi 23.11-02.12.2020. Od 2.199 KM
Relax Tours Alekse Šantića 5., Sarajevo, Tel: +387 33 263 190 sales@relaxtours.com www. relaxtours.com
DREVNI OBIČAJ
Mostovi ljubavi
Autorica: Semra Hodžić
u Bosni i Hercegovini
IAKO OBIČAJ POTJEČE JOŠ OD DREVNIH VREMENA, POSTAVLJANJE LJUBAVNOG KATANCA NA MOSTOVE POSTAJALO JE GODINAMA SVE POPULARNIJE ZBOG ČUVENOG PARISKOG MOSTA PONTS DES ARTS NA KOME JE SVOJEVREMENO VIŠE OD MILION PAROVA ZAUVIJEK ZAKLJUČALO SVOJU LJUBAV. TAKO NIJE SAMO FRANCUSKA IMALA SVOJ LJUBAVNI MOST, VEĆ SU GA DOBILI I BROJNI BOSANSKOHERCEGOVAČKI GRADOVI. 85
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AJFELOV MOST U SARAJEVU Pješački željezni most na Skenderiji kojeg Sarajlije popularno zovu Ajfelov most, mjesto je gdje su mnogi počeli postavljati ljubavne katance. U izboru mosta za zaključavanje ljubavi ima simbolike i povezanosti s najromantičnijim gradom na svijetu. Naime, vjeruje se da je upravo ovaj most projektovao čuveni Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, arhitekt Eiffelovog tornja i simbola Pariza, iako nema
nikakvog pisanog traga o tome. Na mostu koji povezuje dvije obale Miljacke se osim ljubavnih katanaca često kače i ljubavne poruke, transparenti i slično, a na njemu je i spomen-srce, mjesto na kojem se možete fotografirati sa prekrasnim pogledom na ljepote Sarajeva iza vas.
GRADSKI MOST U BIHAĆU Posljednjih nekoliko godina mladi Bišćani su na moderan način izraža-
DREVNI OBIČAJ Običaj zaključavanja „dvije duše koje se vole“ potječe još iz drevne Kine, iz 1. stoljeća prije nove ere. Na katancu se ispisuju inicijali parova, imena, a kasnije datumi i poruke, a ključ se baca u rijeku ili negdje drugo kako ga niko ne bi našao i „otključao“ njihovu ljubav. Običaj zaključavanja ljubavi u Bosni i Hercegovini bio je prisutan još u 18. stoljeću.
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vanja ljubavi počeli ukrašavati gradski most koji spaja lijevu i desnu obalu smaragdne rijeke Une. Svi parovi koji žele svoju ljubav zauvijek zaključati iznad ove čarobne rijeke, uvjerit će se u nepopravljivu romantiku ovog mosta. Pogled s mosta se pruža na stari dio Bihaća: na Kapetanovu kulu i zvonik crkve Svetog Ante, a ispod vas žubori Una, te ćete tu poželjeti da vaša ljubav bude vječna i jedna, jedina, baš kao što je ona.
VISEĆI MOST U BANJOJ LUCI I beznadežno romantična šeher Banja Luka ima svoj most ljubavi. Ljubavni katanci kače se na visećem mostu u nekadašnjem naselju Gornji Šeher. Riječ je o pješačkom mostu koji spaja obale Vrbasa u najstarijem banjalučkom naselju u
podnožju Banj brda, sa prekrasnim pogledom na okolinu i njene prirodne ljepote. Pređite i vi korakom lakim, vezeni, vitki most i bacite ključ, neka ga Vrbas odnese da ga niko nikada ne nađe!
GRADSKI MOST U SANSKOM MOSTU Azra i Emir, Emir i Adna, Haris i Azra... samo su neka od imena koja su ispisana na ljubavnim katancima postavljenim na gradskom mostu iznad rijeke Sane. Mladi Sanjani tako su dodatno ukrasili most s kojeg se pruža najljepši pogled na grad. Ukoliko se sa svojim partnerom odlučite zaključati vašu ljubav baš iznad Sane, preporučujemo da se prošetate noću. Sjedite na neka od dva balkona na mostu namijenjena za odmor pješaka, posmatrajte vodene zavjese ispod mosta, čarob-
The renowned bridge in Paris is no longer a love bridge. After a portion of Pont des Arts collapsed under the weight of one million padlocks in February 2014, the city authorities decided to clean it up completely so they removed 45 tons of padlocks that weighed down the bridge. nu rijeku i svjetla grada i poželite da vaša ljubav bude tako sjajna, mirna i lijepa baš kao sve što oko sebe vidite!
AJFELOV ILI PLIVSKI MOST U JAJCU Nedaleko od jedinog vodopada u centru grada na svijetu, u kraljevskom gradu Jajcu, pružio se Plivski ili Ajfelov most. Na kovanoj ogradi mosta s kojeg se pruža gotovo nestvaran pogled na posljednji poči-
nak rijeke Plive postavljeno je stotine ljubavnih katanaca na kojima su ispisana imena, datumi i razne poruke. Preko ograda mosta postavljen je lanac kako bi se na njih kačili katanci, a ključevi simbolično bacali u Plivu. Zaključajte svoju ljubav na najromantičnijem mjestu u gradu, prošetajte se do očaravajućeg vodopada i uživajte u tome što ste vašu ljubav ovjekovječili u nekadašnjem sjedištu Bosanske kraljevine! 87
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ANCIENT CUSTOM
Love Bridges Written by: Semra Hodžić
in Bosnia and Herzegovina
EVEN THOUGH THIS CUSTOM DATES BACK TO ANCIENT TIMES, ATTACHING A LOVE PADLOCK TO A BRIDGE HAS BECOME QUITE WIDESPREAD BECAUSE OF THE RENOWNED PARIS BRIDGE PONTS DES ARTS WHERE MORE THAN A MILLION COUPLES LOCKED THEIR LOVE FOREVER. FRANCE IS NOT THE ONLY COUNTRY WITH A LOVE BRIDGE—MANY PICTURESQUE AND CHARMING TOWNS IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA HAVE A LOVE BRIDGE TOO. EIFFEL BRIDGE IN SARAJEVO A pedestrian iron bridge at Skenderija, known to Sarajevans as the Eiffel Bridge, is the place where many a lover began to attach love padlocks. The choice of this place to lock love at is symbolic and linked to the world’s most romantic city. Namely, it is believed that this very bridge was designed by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, the celebrated architect who designed the Eiffel Tower, the symbol of Paris, even though there is no written evidence to corroborate it. Courting couples attach love padlocks to the bridge connecting the two banks of the Miljacka River, but others also leave love messages, banners and similar items there. There is a heart located half-way across the bridge so you can take photos with a lovely view of Sarajevo’s landmarks right behind you.
CITY BRIDGE IN BIHAĆ In the past few years, the young residents of Bihać started to adorn the city bridge connecting the left and 88
ANCIENT CUSTOM The custom of locking the “two souls that love each other” together dates back to ancient China, to the 1st century BC. At first, couples locked the love padlocks with their initials, but later on, other couples inscribed their names and messages too, and then throw the keys into the river below the bridge or somewhere else so nobody else would be able to “unlock” their hearts. The custom of locking one’s love was practiced in Bosnia and Herzegovina as early as in the 18th century.
right bank of the emerald-green Una River in order to express their love in a modern way. All couples wishing to lock their love forever above this remarkable river, will see for themselves just how hopelessly romantic this bridge is. The city bridge treats you to the views of the old part of Bihać: the Captain’s tower (Kapetanova kula) and the tower of St. Anthony’s Church, while the Una River bubbles below you. This is where you will wish your love to be endless and for you and your beloved to be the one and only love to each other, just like there is only one true Una River.
SUSPENSION BRIDGE IN BANJALUKA The hopelessly romantic city of Banjaluka has got its very own love bridge. Love padlocks are fastened to the suspension bridge in the neighbourhood which used to be called Gornji Šeher. It is a pedestrian bridge connecting the banks of Vrbas in the oldest settlement situated at the foot of Banj hillock offering wonderful views of the surrounding
area of outstanding natural beauty. Tread lightly across the adorned, slender bridge and throw away the key—let Vrbas take it where it would never be found again!
CITY BRIDGE IN SANSKI MOST
The renowned bridge in Paris is no longer a love bridge. After a portion of Pont des Arts collapsed under the weight of one million padlocks in February 2014, the city authorities decided to clean it up completely so they removed 45 tons of padlocks that weighed down the bridge.
Azra and Emir, Emir and Adna, Haris and Azra... are just some of the names inscribed on love padlocks fastened to the city bridge above the Sana River. That is how young residents of Sanski Most adorned the bridge which affords visitors the best views of the town. If you decide to lock the love padlock of you and your loved one above the Sana River, we would recommend you to do it at night. Go for a walk to the bridge, take a seat on one of the two balconies on the bridge where passers-by can rest, look at the river cascading underneath the bridge and the magic unfolding below you, take in the town lights and make a wish for an everlasting love, as bright, serene and beautiful as everything else you can see around you!
EIFFEL BRIDGE OR PLIVSKI MOST IN JAJCE Within a short distance of the only waterfall situated in the town centre in the world, in the royal town of Jajce, is the place where Plivski most or the Eiffel Bridge is located. While the bridge offers surreal views of Pliva River’s lasting place, its cast iron railings are completely filled with love padlocks engraved with names, dates and messages of various kinds. A chain was put on the sides of the bridge so that lovers could attach their love padlocks to it, before throwing the key in the river as a symbol of eternal devotion. Lock your romance at the most romantic place in town, take a walk to the mesmerising waterfall and enjoy the fact that you have united your love for eternity in the former royal seat of the Bosnian Kingdom! 89
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SEAD ŠAŠIVAREVIĆ
FOTOGRAFIJAMA ISPISUJE BAJKE Sead Šašivarević je nagrađivani bosanskohercegovački fine-art landscape fotograf. Dobitnik je mnogobrojnih nagrada, a njegove fotografije objavljivane su u knjigama i medijima širom svijeta. Za sebe kaže da piše bajke. Osnivač je i voditelj prve Lukomirske ljetne škole fotografije, a njegova fotografija Lukomira našla se na poštanskoj markici BH Pošte. Zaljubljenik je u prirodu i gradske i planinske pejzaže, a rado se posvećuje i ostalim žanrovima kao što su fotografije arhitekture, ulica, enterijera i portreta. Pogledajte njegove radove na www.bezdanphoto.com!
SEAD ŠAŠIVAREVIĆ
WRITING FAIRY TALES WITH PHOTOS Sead Šašivarević is a Bosnian-Herzegovinian award-winning fine-art landscape photographer. He received a lot of awards and his photos were published in books and media outlets throughout the world. He says he writes fairy tales. He founded the first Lukomir Summer School of Photography and he runs it too. His photo of Lukomir was featured on a postage stamp issued by BH Postal Services. He loves nature and city and mountain landscapes, but he also likes to pursue other photography genres such as architectural, street, interior and portrait photography. Go to www.bezdanphoto.com to have a look at his photos!
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MOSTARSKA BIJELA / BIJELA, MOSTAR 92
TJENTIÅ TE / TJENTISTE 93
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MOSTAR / MOSTAR 94
SARAJEVO, STARI GRAD / SARAJEVO, OLD TOWN 95
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SELO LUKOMIR / LUKOMIR VILLAGE 96
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NIŠIĆKA VISORAVAN / NISICI PLATEAU 98
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PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL
Istanbul Očaravajuća mješavina Istoka i Zapada
UTONITE U CARSTVO ŠARENILA, MIRISA I UKUSA TURSKIH SPECIJALITETA KOJIMA SE NE ZNA BROJ, DIVANITE U NEKOJ OD KAFANICA ILI ČAJDŽINICA, PRIUŠTITE SEBI MASAŽU U TURSKOM KUPATILU - HAMAMU ILI PAZARITE NEKI OD MNOGOBROJNIH SUVENIRA. Autorica: Ivana Dukčević
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An Enchanting Mix of the East and the West EXPERIENCE THE COLOURFUL MAGIC OR FLAVOURS AND AROMAS OF COUNTLESS TURKISH DISHES, ENJOY A COFFEE OR TEA IN A SECLUDED CAFÉ OR A TEASHOP, ENJOY A MASSAGE IN TURKISH BATH – ALSO KNOWN AS A HAMMAM, OR SHOP IN ONE OF MANY SOUVENIR SHOPS. Written by: Ivana Dukčević
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K
ada počnete da pišete o Istanbulu, pred vas se postavi jedan prilično trivijalan problem: odakle da počnete!? Da li od starog dijela grada - mjesta na kojem je nastao... ili modernog dijela - sadašnjeg centra... ili možda od Bosfora, po kojem je najpoznatiji... Istanbul je mnogo više od Kapali čaršije, Aja Sofije, Plave džamije i Topkapi palate, kuda vas tradicionalno vode tokom fakultativnih izleta preko turističkih agencija. Veliki, kosmopolitski grad za koji mnogi Turci tvrde da kao da nije u Turskoj, a zapadnjaci ga vide kao
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njima najbližu priču iz hiljadu i jedne noći, vjerovatno će zadovoljiti mnoge ukuse i ispuniti očekivanja onih koji vole da putuju, kupuju i uživaju. Istanbul spada u deset najvećih gradova na svijetu. Osim veličine, Istanbul je i jedan od onih gradova za koje se s pravom kaže da „imaju dušu“ i „žive punim plućima“ u gotovo svakom kutku. Tome je doprinijela njegova 2.700-godišnja historija puna različitih vjeroispovijesti (pagani, kršćani i muslimani), raznolikih naroda (Grci, Rimljani, Vizantijci, Turci, Jevreji, Đenovljani) i njihovih životnih navika, koji su živjeli ili vladali ovim,
danas kosmopolitskim gradom. Niti jedan grad na svijetu ne može se pohvaliti položajem koji ima Is tanbul. Zahvaljujući tome što je više od 2.000 godina bio svojevrstan most između Istoka i Zapada i što je baš na tom mjestu „proglašen“ kraj evropskog i početak azijskog kontinenta, Istanbul je jedini grad na svijetu koji se prostire na oba. Između tri dijela istanbulskog kopna smjestilo se Mramorno more koje u svom sjevernom dijelu postaje čuveni Bosforski moreuz i ulazi u Crno more, dok na zapadu prerasta u duboki zaliv po imenu Zlatni rog.
TOP 15 Kada je riječ o Istanbulu, izabrati 15 najboljih od najboljeg, prilično je nezahvalan zadatak. Ovo su naši prijedlozi (nije poredano po važnosti):
GRAD S POGLEDOM Ako ste odlučili posjetiti Istanbul, napravili ste dobar izbor. Vreva ulica, dokovi i luke iz kojih polaze brodići puni lokalaca i turista, mostovi sa pecarošima preko Zlatnog roga ili oni preko Bosfora, sa širokim saobraćajnicama, šarenilo čaršije sa raznobojnom robom i lavirint njihovih sokaka, trgovi sa golubovima, ili elegantna koplja istanbulskih munara ... svi oni ne mogu stati ni u jedan objektiv fotoaparata koliko god to pokušavali - pogled na Istanbul jednostavno treba doživjeti. Istanbul je očaravajuća mješavina Istoka i Zapada. Utonite u carstvo šareni-
la, mirisa i ukusa turskih specijaliteta kojima se ne zna broj, divanite u nekoj od kafanica ili čajdžinica, priuštite sebi masažu u turskom kupatilu - hamamu ili pazarite neki od mnogobrojnih suvenira. U gradu kao što je Istanbul - mogućnosti za obilazak, provod ili uživanje gotovo su neiscrpne. Više od svega, Istanbul je grad sa pogledom. S obzirom na to da se centralni dio grada prostire na sedam brežuljaka, sa bilo koje od uzvišica, kupola ili kula-vidikovaca, u Evropi ili Aziji, pružaju se nezaboravni pogledi. Ako želite da upoznate grad, biće vam potrebno minimum pet-šest dana da bar “zagrebete po površini”. U principu, minimum tri dana potrebna su da se obiđu oni najvažniji spomenici kulture: Topkapi palata, Aja Sofija, Plava džamija, Jerabatan cisterna, Eminonu, Kapali čaršija i Bazar začina u južnom, evropskom dijelu grada. Isto toliko vremena oduzeće vam obilazak, sjevernog, evropskog dijela Istanbula, sa Galata kulom, Taksim skverom i Istiklal ulicom, Dolmabahče palatom i ostatkom Bosfora (i dva predivna mosta na njemu). Ne bi bilo loše da posjetite i najznačajnije dijelove Istanbula sa azijske strane Bosfora, ali vam je i za to potreban barem još jedan slobodan dan.
1) Vidjeti veličanstvenu Aja Sofiju; 2) Detaljno obići bajkovitu Topkapi palatu; 3) Posjetiti interesantnu, podzemnu Jerabatan cisternu; 4) Posjetiti Sulejmaniju, džamiju sultana Sulejmana Veličanstvenog; 5) Otići na kompletan tretman u neki od turskih hamama (Čemberlitaš za samce, ili Hamam Sulejmana Veličanstvenog za parove i porodice); 6) Provesti dio dana u šarenilu prodavnica Kapali čaršije i bazara začina; 7) Pazariti rahat lokum u jednoj od dvije najstarije i najpoznatije prodavnice ovog slatkiša na svijetu: Ali Muhidin Hadži Bekir i Šekerdži Hafız Mustafa; 8) Izgubiti se među putnicima u luci Eminonu i ploviti brodom po Bosforu; 9) Preći živopisan Galata most sa pecarošima i jesti zvanično najbolju baklavu u Turskoj, u slastičarni Karaköy Güllüoğlu Baklavaları; 10) Popeti se na Galata kulu i uživati u najspektakularnijem pogledu na grad; 11) Provesti dio dana u ulici Istiklal i njenim pasažima, od Taksim skvera do Tunela; 12) Obići Bosfor kopnenim putem, vidjeti palatu Dolmabahče, kraj oko džamije Ortakoj, mostove i dvije tvrđave: Rumeli i Anandolu; 13) Zapadno od centra, obići kraj Fatih i Fener: Vaseljensku patrijaršiju, Crkvu-muzej u Hori (najočuvanije freske i mozaici iz Vizantijskog perioda) i Teodosijeve zidine (nekada jedine neosvojive); 14) Otići na kraj Zlatnog roga: obići kraj Ejup, a onda se voziti uspinjačom do vrha brda i popiti kafu na terasi kafeterije Piere Lotti; 15) Obići neko od Prinčevskih ostrva; 103
PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL
O
nce one starts writing about Istanbul, one inevitably wonders where to begin. Should the story open with the section on the Old Town, from which the modern city emerged, or on the new, modern side of the city – the city centre today, or perhaps with a section on Bosphorus which made the city itself so well known? Istanbul is so much more than the Grand Bazar (Tur: Kapalıçarşı), Hagia Sophia (Tur: Ayasofya), Blue Mosque (Tur: Sultan Ahmet Camii) and the Topkapi Palace (Tur: Topkapı Sarayı), landmarks traditionally included in most optional sight-seeing tours offered by major tour operators. Large cosmopolitan city, strangely out of place for many Turks and closest match to a setting from “1001 Nights” for most westerners will most likely satisfy appetites and interests of most people and meet the expectations of those who enjoy travelling, shopping and exposure to new experiences. 104
Istanbul is among ten largest cities in the world. In addition to its size, Istanbul is the city which truly deserves its reputation of being a city with the spirit, which lives its life to the full. One of the reasons for it is its 2,700 years of turbulent and eventful history of interchanging dominating religions (Pagans, Christians and Muslims) and nations (Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Turks, Jews and Genoans) who lived and ruled this city, leaving behind their unique habits, traditions and heritage, which made the city as cosmopolitan as it can be. No other city in the world compares to Istanbul when it comes to its position. It served as a bridge between the East and the West for over 2,000 years and it was therefore declared to be the site where the European continent ends and the Asian continent begins and the only city in the world to occupy both. Between the three parts that constitute the mainland of Istanbul lies the Bosphorus,
the 32 km long strait stretching from north to south that joins the Sea of Marmara on the south with the Black Sea on the north and separates the continents of Europe and Asia. On the west, the Bosphorus turns into a deep inlet known as the Golden Horn (Tur: Altın Boynuz)…
CITY WITH THE VIEW If you set your mind on visiting Istanbul, you made the right choice. Busy streets, docks and harbours, from which boats depart crowded with locals and tourists, bridges over the Golden Horn packed with fishermen hoping for a good catch, or across Bosporus, with wide traffic lanes, noises and splendour of the markets offering colourful and exotic goods, with mazes of narrow passages, squares with pigeons or tall and elegant minarets of Istanbul embroidering the city landscape… all of these scenic images are just too breath-taking to be faithfully captured by a camera lens, no
matter how hard one tries – Istanbul is best experienced in person. Istanbul is an enchanting mix of the East and the West. One should experience the colourful magic or flavours and aromas of countless Turkish dishes, enjoy a coffee or tea in a secluded café or a teashop, enjoy a massage in Turkish bath – also known as a hammam, or shop in one of many souvenir shops. In a city such as Istanbul there are countless opportunities for sight-seeing, fun, relaxation or simple enjoyment.
TOP 15 When it comes to Istanbul, picking top 15 places to see comes across as a pretty daunting task. These are our suggestions (locations are not listed by order of importance). 1) See the magnificent Hagia Sophia; 2) Make a detailed tour of the mesmerising Topkapi Palace; 3) Visit the capturing underground Basilica Cistern; 4) Visit the Mosque of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (Tur: Suleymaniye Mosque); 5) Have a full treatment in some of Turkish baths (Cemberlitas Hamami for single persons, of Suleymaniye Hamam for couples and families); 6) Spend several hours immersed in the colourful surroundings of the Grand Bazar (Kapalıçarşı) and the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı);
More than anything else, Istanbul is the city with the view. Central part of the city spreads across seven hills and any rooftop, dome or tower in European or Asian part of the city offers magnificent view. If you want to get to know the city, it will take no less than five to six days to at least “scratch the surface”. As a rule, it takes no less than three days to see the most important city landmarks, such as the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, The Basilica Cistern, Eminönü docks, the
Grand Bazaar, and Spice Bazaar in the Southern, European part of the city. It will take just as long to see the northern, European part of Istanbul with the Galata Tower, Taxim Square (Tur: Taksim Meydanı) and Istiklal Avenue (Tur: İstiklâl Caddesi), Dolambahce Palace and the rest of Bosphorus (with two gorgeous bridges across the strait). It would not be a bad idea to visit the most important parts of the city across the strait on the Asian side, but that would take at least one more day.
7) Buy some Turkish delight in one of two oldest and most famous shops in the world, namely the Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir shop and Hafız Mustafa shop; 8) Blend in among the passengers in the Eminönü ferryboat docks and board one of the vessels cruising the Bosphorus; 9) Cross the picturesque Galata Bridge, observe the fishermen and have what’s the officially acclaimed as the best baklava in Turkey, available in Karaköy Güllüoğlu Baklavaları pastry shop; 10) Go up the Galata Tower and enjoy the most spectacular view of the city; 11) Spend some time wandering the Istiklal Avenue and its adjoining side passages, from Taksim square to the Tunnel; 12) Tour the Bosphorus shore by
land, see the Dolambahce Palace, the surroundings of the Ortakoy Mosque (Tur: Ortaköy Camii), bridges and two fortresses, the Rumeli Fortress (also known as Rumelian Castle and Roumeli Hissar Castle) and the Anatolian Fortress; 13) West from the centre, visit Fatih district and Fener neighbourhood within the district, visit the Ecumenical Patriarchate, The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora (with the world’s best preserved frescoes and mosaics dating from the Byzantine era) and the Walls of Constantinople (once unconquerable). 14) Go all the way to the end of the Golden Horn: see Eyup district, board the cable car to the top of the hill and have coffee on the terrace of Pierre Loti café 15) See some of the princes’ islands.
105
ZDRAVLJE / HEALTH
JAČANJE IMUNITETA kao imperativ ove jeseni S DOLASKOM HLADNIJIH DANA POČINJE SEZONA UOBIČAJNIH RESPIRATORNIH VIROZA, A OVE GODINE SUOČAVAMO SE I S BROJNIM IZAZOVIMA VEZANIM ZA EPIDEMIJSKU SITUACIJU S KORONAVIRUSOM. DA BISMO SE USPJEŠNO IZBORILI ZA OVIM ZDRAVSTVENIM OPASNOSTIMA POTREBNO JE RADITI NA JAČANJU IMUNITETA, STOGA VAM DONOSIMO NEKOLIKO PREPORUKA KAKO PRIPREMITI ORGANIZAM ZA HLADNE DANE. UNOS VITAMINA Iskoristite bogatu jesenju trpezu i u organizam unesite dosta svježeg voća i povrća zbog sadržaja biljnih vlakana, vitamina, minerala i antioksidansa. Uravnotežena prehrana, redovna tjelesna aktivnost doprinijet će vašem imunitetu. Neizostavan je unos vitamina A, B, C, E, cinka, selena i bakra, koji će vam najviše pomoći u borbi protiv virusa, a najvažniji je D vitamin koji može pomoći u smanjenju rizika virusnih epidemija, te održati imunitet, snagu mišića i gustoću kostiju. Preporučuje se da se vitamin D uzima u vidu dodataka prehrani koji sadrže D3 u dozi od 20 mikrograma na više, posebno tokom zimskih mjeseci. Svakako, ne zaboravite ni na tradicionalne recepte koji nam pomažu poput pileće supe koja potječe lučenje sluzi i skraćuje vrijeme zadržavanja virusa na sluznici. Tu su još i topli čajevi uz dodatak meda i pekmeza. Ne zaboravimo i na bijeli 106
luk kojem nema ravnog u borbi s bolestima, ili na ljute papričice.
BORAVAK NA SVJEŽEM ZRAKU Mnogi gradovi u Bosni i Hercegovini tokom hladnih dana suočavaju se sa problemima zagađenog zraka, što loše utječe na zdravlje i imunitet. Ne propustite iskoristiti lijepe dane za boravak na čistom zraku, najbolje planinskom jer on popravlja krvnu sliku. Sigurno ste čuli za aeroterapiju, odnosno liječenje zrakom! Svako bi se trebao izlagati čistom zraku barem 30 minuta dnevno, jer to potiče cirkulaciju krvi i čišćenje organizma, a šetnja nas čini
zdravijim i sretnijim. Zato iskoristite odlazak na planinu kako biste podstakli metabolizam i poboljšali zdravlje i vitalnost.
AROMATERAPIJA I aromaterapija može biti vrlo korisna kada je u pitanju prevencija i liječenje virusa i infekcija. Eterična ulja limuna, čajevca, eukaliptusa i tamjana možete koristiti tako što ćete ih staviti u lampice kako bi mirisao prostor u kojem boravite, a što spriječava širenje virusnih infekcija. Možete ih koristiti i za grgljanje, inhaliranje, kupke, obloge za skidanje temperature ili kao obloge protiv kašlja. Nadamo se da će vam uživanje u zimskim radostima proteći bez ikakvih simptoma virusa!
BOOSTING YOUR IMMUNE SYSTEM
is Imperative this Autumn
AS THE WEATHER GETS COLD, COMMON RESPIRATORY VIRUS SEASON BEGINS. THIS YEAR, WE ARE ALSO FACING NUMEROUS CHALLENGES ASSOCIATED WITH THE CORONAVIRUS EPIDEMIC. TO SUCCESSFULLY TACKLE HEALTH RISKS, WE NEED TO STRENGTHEN OUT IMMUNE SYSTEM, SO WE ARE BRINGING YOU A FEW TIPS ON HOW TO PREPARE YOUR BODY FOR COLD WEATHER. VITAMIN INTAKE Take the best out of the rich autumn flavours and eat a lot of fresh fruit and vegetables as they are high in fibre, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. A balanced diet and regular exercise can contribute to a health immune system. It is essential to take vitamin A, B, C, E, zinc, selenium, and copper because they play a major role in battling viruses. The most important is vitamin D which may help to reduce risk of infection, keep our immune system healthy, and preserve muscle strength and bone density. As a dietary supplement, vitamin D intake is recommended at 20 micrograms or more in the form of D3, particularly in the winter months. You should certainly not forget that traditional meals such as chicken soup, which increases mucus flow and shortens the time the cold virus spends in
the respiratory tract, also help. You can also make hot tea with honey and marmalade. Let us not forget about garlic, which is unbeatable in fighting infections, or chilli peppers.
blood circulation and helps to cleanse from the inside. Be sure to go to the mountains to boost your metabolism and improve your health and vitality.
SPENDING TIME OUTSIDE IN THE FRESH AIR
AROMATHERAPY
Many towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina face air pollution when the weather gets cold, which has a negative impact on our immune system and health. Take any chance you can get to spend time outside in the fresh air; fresh mountain air helps your body produce more red blood cells. You must have heard of aromatherapy, or treatment with fresh air! Everyone should spend at least 30 minutes per day in the fresh air since it improves
Aromatherapy may be useful in preventing and treating viruses and infections. You can put a few drops of lemon, tree tea, eucalyptus, and frankincense essential oils in a lamp to fill the room you are in with their aroma and help prevent the spread of virus infections. You can also gargle and inhale essential oils, add them to bath water, or add them to a cotton pad to reduce temperature and help soothe coughs. We hope you will enjoy the fun and frolic of the winter season symptom-free!
107
KUHINJA / KITCHEN
Dunje,
mirisne ljepotice NE, DUNJE NE SLUŽE DA BI SAMO BILE NA ORMARU...
KITNKEZ – SIR OD DUNJA Sastojci: - kilogram očišćenih dunja - 700 g šećera - limun Priprema: Dunje operite, očistite od košpica, pa narežite s koricom na kockice. Potom ih zalijte vodom i kuhajte dok ne omekšaju, pa izlijte vodu a dunje usitnite u pire štapnim mikserom. U pire dodajte šećer i sok od limuna, pa kuhajte na laganoj vatri otprilike dva sata i povremeno promiješajte. Kitnkez je gotov kada smjesa postane narandžasta i gusta. Vruću je izlijte u lim preko papira za pečenje, poravnajte i ostavite da se stisne. Sutradan prebaciti kitnkez na dasku i izrežite ga na kvadratiće. Premjestiti na veći pladanj, malo ih odvojiti i pokriti čistim papirnim ubrusom, a zatim ih ostaviti da se suše na zraku najmanje 2 dana. Nakon toga možete kockice uvaljati u kristalni šećer, šećer u prahu ili kokos, potom ih prebaciti u neku posudu i zatvoriti sa pokojim listićem lovora jer će tako imati još posebniju aromu. Može stajati mjesecima!
108
KITNKEZ—QUINCE CHEESE Ingredients: - 1 kg cleaned quinces - 700 g sugar - 1 lemon Directions: Wash the quinces, remove the seeds and cut the quinces without removing the peel into cubes. Add water and boil until the fruit is tender, and then remove the water and puree the quinces using a hand mixer. Add sugar and lemon juice to the puree and cook over low heat for two hours stirring occasionally. Kitnkez is done when the mixture turns orange and
thickens. Line a pan with parchment and pour the mixture into the pan, spread evenly and leave aside to thicken. The next day, place the kitnkez on a wooden board and cut it into cubes. Then place the cubes on a large tray splitting them up a little. Cover them with a kitchen paper towel and leave to dry in the air for at least two days. After that, you can roll the cubes in granulated sugar, powdered sugar or coconut, and then lay them in a container putting inside a couple of laurel leaves to add a special aroma and close it. You can keep the kitnkez like that for months!
Quince,
Beautiful, Fragrant Fruit
NO, QUINCES ARE NOT MEANT TO JUST SIT ON YOUR WARDROBE… STARINSKI KOMPOT OD DUNJA Sastojci: - veća dunja, - litar vode, - 3 kašike meda, - kašikica cimeta Priprema: Dunju dobro operite, po želji ogulite i narežite na komadiće, koje trebate posuti cimetom, pa ih preliti vodom i ugrijati do vrenja. Kad voda provri, dodajte med i kuhajte kompot još pet minuta na nižoj temperaturi. Od ovoga će vam ispasti četiri porcije kompota kojeg možete jesti dok je topao, a ukusan je i kad je hladan.
SLATKO OD DUNJA
QUINCE DESSERT
Sastojci: - kilogram dunja - ½ kg šećera - 2 čaše vode
Ingredients: - 1 kg quinces - ½ kg sugar - 2 glasses water
Priprema: U šerpu stavite šećer, prelijte ga vodom i kuhajte 20 minuta da dobijete sirup. Dunje operite, ogulite i izrendajte krupno, pa ih dodajte u pripremljen sirup i kuhajte još 45 minuta. Kad je slatko gotovo, vrućeg ga sipajte u čiste, suhe i zagrijane tegle, koje je potrebno hermetički zatvoriti. Slatko čuvajte na suhom i hladnom mjestu do otvaranja.
Directions: Put sugar in a pot, add water and allow to cook for 20 minutes until it turns into a syrup. Wash the quinces, peel and grate them in large shreds. Add shredded quince to the syrup you have already made and cook for 45 more minutes. When it is ready, pour it in clean, dry and heated jars while it is still hot. Seal the jars hermetically. Keep the dessert in a cool and dry place until ready to use.
VINTAGE QUINCE COMPOTE Ingredients: - 1 large quince - 1 litre water - 3 spoons honey - 1 scoop of cinnamon Directions: Wash the quince thoroughly, peel it off if you like, cut into cubes, sprinkle cinnamon and pour water over the cubes and bring to a boil. When the water boils, add honey and cook for five more minutes in a low temperature. Serves four. You can eat the compote while it is still warm, but it is delicious even when it is cold. 109
PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING
APOTEKE SARAJEVO
Neka vaša koža ponovo zablista uz
GALAS kozmetičke
ZA SVAKI TIP KOŽE Već nakon nekoliko dana korištenja Galas kozmetičkih krema vaše lice će dobiti lijep, zdrav i njegovan izgled.
Nj
egovana koža je težnja svake žene, a posebno je važno ako rezultate postižemo pravilnom njegom. Na tržištu većina proizvoda za njegu kože izgleda slično, ali neke formulacije su jednostavno bolje od drugih.
TAJNA LIJEPE KOŽE Stoga su vrhunski farmaceuti Galenskog laboratorija ‘’Galas’’ udružili svoja stručna znanja i iskustva te pripadnicama nježnijeg spola otkrili tajne lijepe kože lica i vrata utkanih u sedamnaest visokokvalitetnih kozmetičkih krema. Korištenjem 110
nepresušne prirodne čarolije Galas kozmetičke kreme obezbjeđuju vašoj koži novu dimenziju njege.
Svaki tip kože zahtijeva prikladan proizvod za njegu, te je od ključne važnosti kako ćete uskladiti tip kože i pravilnu njegu, a Galas kreme jednako brinu o svakom tipu vaše kože. Veliki broj zadovoljnih korisnika potvrđuje kvalitet!
PRIRODNA KOZMETIKA Galas kozmetičke kreme izrađene su od odabranih prirodnih podloga i djelotvornih sastojaka, obogaćene prirodnim uljima koja dubinski njeguju kožu lica i vrata, usporavajući proces starenja kože. Galas kreme pružaju elastičnost, svježinu, sjaj i prekrasnu teksturu, aktiviraju prirodan proces vlaženja kože, smanjuju osjećaj zategnutosti i nelagode i pogodne su kao podloga za šminku.
Adresa/Address: Kranjčevićeva 29, 71000 Sarajevo Telefon/Telephone: +387 33 722 660
info@apoteke-sarajevo.ba
Make your skin glow again with GALAS
E
very woman dreams of having healthy-looking skin, and it is extremely important to achieve the results we want with proper care. Most of the skin-care products available on the market look similar, but some formulations are simply better than others.
THE SECRET TO BEAUTIFUL SKIN That is why the leading pharmacists in Galenski laboratorij “Galas” have put their expert knowledge and experience together to reveal to the ladies the secrets to great skin on their face and neck by formulating seventeen high-quality face creams. With their everlasting natural magic, Galas face creams provide your skin with a whole lot of benefits.
APOTEKE SARAJEVO
NATURAL COSMETICS Galas face creams are made of hand-picked natural foundations and efficient ingredients, enriched with natural oils that deeply nourish the skin on your face and neck by slowing down the skin aging process. Galas face creams treat your face with elasticity, freshness, glow and beautiful texture, they activate the natural skin hydration process and relieve the feeling of skin tightness and discomfort, and they can be used as a foundation.
Each type of skin requires adequate skin care products so it is absolutely essential that your skin care products match your skin type. Galas face creams provide equal care for all skin types. A large number of satisfied customers can vouch for the quality of Galas face creams!
FOR ALL SKIN TYPES After just a few days of use of Galas face creams, your skin will look radiant, healthy and well-nourished. 111
s a V a z m o d s u a r l t a i G m e j Znan
Proizvodi dostupni u JU Apoteke Sarajevo
I ZVIJEZDE SU ODABRALE SVJETLOST... OD SADA MOGUĆNOST LASERSKE OPERACIJE KATARAKTE I DIOPTRIJE. Klinika Svjetlost Sarajevo, Dr. Mustafe Pintola 23, Sarajevo, +387 33 762 772