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SADRŽAJ INTERVJUI I PRIČE Edin Hozan, načelnik Općine Jajce Jajce - Još ljepše, razvijenije i modernije 16 Una Bejtović, savjetnica za odnose s javnošću Žena koja inspiriše 36 KOLUMNA - RED AFRICA TRAVEL Balkan – mjesto crkvi samo 300 godina mlađih od same hrišćanske religije 22 MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Najatraktivnija penjališta i via ferrate u Bosni i Hercegovini 50 Dejčići i Ledići – Nježno lice Bjelašnice 58 Gaučo ranč na Trebižatu – indijanska oaza u srcu Hercegovine 64 Biseri Nevesinja 68 Kameni zmajevi u Novom Travniku Vječna straža uvijek budnih očiju 72 PREDSTAVLJAMO Fine Food - Tradicionalni proizvodi koji su nam razgalili nepca 30 Puračka ćaska - Korak do zaštite UNESCO-a 76 USPJEŠNE PRIČE Adnan Bubalo 25 godina uspješne fotografske karijere 80 FOTO EDITORIJAL Dženad Džino Originalni fotoalbumi sa vjenčanja uz znamenite simbole BiH 84 PUTOVANJA Čanakkale Od Troje do Galipolja 92

20 30 36

CONTENTs INTERVIEWS AND STORIES Edin Hozan, Mayor of Jajce Municipality Jajce—A More Beautiful, Developed and Modern Place 19 Una Bejtović, Public Relations Advisor Inspirational Woman 39 COLUMN - RED AFRICA TRAVEL

50 72 54

Balkans—a Place With Churches Just 300 Years Younger Than Christianity 25 MY MAGICAL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Most Attractive Climbing Areas and Via Ferratas in Bosnia and Herzegovina 54 Dejčići and Ledići - Gentle Face of Mount Bjelašnica 61 Gaucho Ranch on the Trebižat River - Native American Oasis in the Heart of Herzegovina 66 Pearls of Nevesinje 70 Stone Dragons in Novi Travnik - Eternal Guards With Their Ever-vigilant Eyes 74 INTRODUCING Fine Food - Traditional Food Products to Delight Our Taste Buds 31 Puračka ćaska - Just a Step Away From Being Protected by UNESCO 78 SUCCESS STORIES Adnan Bubalo The Most Successful Photographer from B&H for Three Years in a Row 82 PHOTO EDITORIAL Dženad Džino Original Photo Albums from Landmark Wedding Venues in B&H 84

TRAVELS Çanakkale From Troy to Gallipoli 93

Foto/Photo: Emira Azganović - Jajce

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IMPRESSUM

FURAJ.BA Magazine br. /no. 25 - Mart 2021 Direktor/Director Emira Azganović Redakcija/Editorial Staff Samra Višnjić Semra Hodžić Elma Zećo Fotografije/Photographs Irfan Redžović DTP&Dizajn/Design Sandra Ozimica Prevod /Translation Dženita Pašić Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 +387 33 208 818 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.

Adresa/Address Kralja Tvrtka 9, Sarajevo

Umnožavanje ove publikacije ili bilo kojeg njenog dijela ne smije se reproducirati, pohranjivati u sistemu za pretraživanje ili prenositi u bilo kojem obliku i na bilo koji način, elektronski, mehanički, fotokopiranjem, snimanjem objavljenih reklamnih poruka i preuzetih sadržaja s pomenutih ili oglašavanih elektronskih lokacija. Ne snosimo odgovornost za nenamjerne ili štamparske greške. Multiplication of this publication or any part of it mustn’t be reproduced, stored in search engines or transferred in any form, in any way, electronically, mechanically, copying, recording or any other way without the publisher’s approval. The editorial staff of the Furaj.BA magazine takes no responsibilities for the content and the validity of published advertising messages and downloaded content from above mentioned or advertised electronic sources. We don’t take responsibility for inadvertent and typographical errors. 6

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S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Uvodnik

Intro

Dragi čitatelji,

Dear readers,

sigurni smo da vam je, kao i nama, dosta stresa, loših vijesti i da se samo želite opustiti i uživati. Pred nama je proljeće, godišnje doba koje i u prirodi i u nama sve budi, a boravak u njoj uspješno pospješuje oporavak od stresa.

There is no doubt that you have had enough of stress and bad news, just as we have, and that all you want to do is unwind and enjoy yourselves. Spring is upon us; it is the season of rebirth and rejuvenation of both nature and people alike, and spending time in the natural world helps us put our minds at ease and recover from stress.

U novom broju magazina Furaj.ba koji je pred vama ohrabrujemo vas da se odvažite i probudite avanturistu u sebi! Otkrijte manje poznate bisere Bosne i Hercegovine, posjetite indijansku oazu u srcu Hercegovine, potražite adrenalinske staze na planinama i saznajte kako je putovati u Tursku za vrijeme pandemije!

In the present issue of the Furaj.ba magazine, we encourage you to be bold and awaken your sense of adventure! Discover some lesser known pearls Bosnia and Herzegovina has to offer, visit a Native-American oasis in the heart of Herzegovina, look for adrenaline-pumping hiking trails, and learn how to travel to Turkey during the Covid-19 pandemic!

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Boje sezone 8

Colours of the Season

NOVOSTI / NEWS

PANORAMSKO RAZGLEDANJE BALONOM S TREBEVIĆA Od ovog proljeća posjetiocima olimpijske planine Trebević nadomak Sarajeva bit će omogućeno panoramsko razgledanje iz balona na topli vazduh koji je uspješno testiran u Španiji. Novi je to turistički sadržaj na prostoru Sportsko-rekreativnog centra Brus, uz teretanu na otvorenom, igraonicu za djecu i vještačku alpinističku stijenu. Vožnja balonom bit će posebna atrakcija koja će privući još više posjetilaca.

PANORAMIC HOT AIR BALLOON TOUR FROM MOUNT TREBEVIĆ Starting this spring, visitors to Trebević, an Olympic mountain situated a heartbeat away from Sarajevo, will have a chance to go on a panoramic hot air balloon tour in a balloon that was successfully tested in Spain. It is a new tourist product which will

be introduced in Brus Sports and Recreation Centre along with an open-air gym, a children’s playground and an artificial climbing wall. Hot air balloon tours will appeal to and attract even more visitors to the mountain.

PEĆINA VJETRENICA NOMINIRANA ZA LISTU UNESCO-A Pećina Vjetrenica, najveća i najpoznatija u Bosni i Hercegovini, zaštićeni spomenik prirode i turističko odredište u jugoistočnom dijelu Hercegovine nominirana je za uvrštavanje na listu UNESCO-a čime bi trebala postati prvi prirodni fenomen na svjetskoj listi zaštićenih spomenika u BiH. Također,Vjetrenica s dijelom Popova polja ponovo je u ovoj godini proglašena zaštićenim pejzažom. Rad na zaštiti ovog prirodnog blaga bio je jedan opsežan projekat koji je trajao od 2017. do 2019. godine.

VJETRENICA CAVE NOMINATED FOR INSCRIPTION ON THE UNESCO LIST Vjetrenica Cave, the largest and most famous cave in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a protected natural monument and a tourist destination located in the southern part of Herzegovina which was nominated for inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

If inscribed, Vjetrenica would become the first natural phenomenon in B&H on the list. In addition, together with a part of Popovo polje, Vjetrenica was declared a protected landscape area this year. From 2017 to 2019, extensive work was undertaken to protect this natural treasure.

PREDSTAVLJENA MONOGRAFIJA GRADA SARAJEVA U sarajevskoj Vijećnici svečano je promovirana Monografija “Sarajevo 2020“. Djelo, čiji je izdavač prvi put Grad Sarajevo, karakterizira bogat izbor citata, izjava i fotografija. O šarmu Sarajeva sa istim oduševljenjem govore oni koji su u njemu rođeni, ali i oni koje je sudbina, kao posjetioce, dovela u zagrljaj evropskog Jerusalema kako ga najčešće opisuju. Fotomonografija Sarajevo, publicirana na bosanskom jeziku, bit će drag sadržaj u bibliotečnim policama svih ljubitelja grada Sarajeva, ali i dobre knjige.

MONOGRAPH ON THE CITY OF SARAJEVO PUBLISHED The Sarajevo City Hall hosted the launch of the “Sarajevo 2020” monograph. Published by the City of Sarajevo for the first time, it features a rich selection of quotes, statements, and photographs. Those who were born in Sarajevo and those who came to visit it by a twist of fate share the same enthusiasm for the city that welcomed them with open arms, the European Jerusalem, as many like to call it. The photo monograph on Sarajevo, published in the Bosnian language, will be a much cherished addition to any home library among Sarajevo lovers and bibliophiles alike.

NOVO ZAŠTIĆENO PODRUČJE U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI Potpisivanjem Memoranduma učinjen je prvi korak da izvor i gornji tok rijeke Sane, te donji tok rijeke Korane i pećina Mračaj postane novo zaštićeno područje u Bosni i Hercegovini. Ono obuhvata izletište Pecku u okolini Mrkonjić Grada, gdje je Udruženje Zelene staze – Greenways napravilo Visitor centar ili Centar za posjetioce s misijom da ljude približe selu i prirodi. U blizini se nalaze izvor rijeke Sane, hidrološki fenomen ‘estavela’ odnosno pećina Mračaj, uređene staze i mjesta za odmor Međusane gdje se spajaju svi izvori u jedan tok. Tu je i najveće penjalište na prirodnim stijenama, a izvori i druga sela povezani su biciklističkim i pješačkim stazama. Samo 15 kilometara odatle udaljeni su izvori Plive. Zaštićen prirodni pejzaž mogli bi postati i Bunski kanali.

NEWLY PROTECTED AREA IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA The signing of a Memorandum marks the start of the first step in designating the spring and the upper stretch of the River Sana as well as the lower stretch of the River Korana and the Mračaj Cave as a newly protected area in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The area covers the outing site called Pecka just outside of Mrkonjić

Grad. That is where the Greenways Association created a Visitor Centre aiming to bring people closer to the countryside. The spring of the River Sana, the Mračaj Cave, which is a hydrological phenomenon known as ‘estravela’, and the Međusane area with well-maintained trails and rest places, where all springs flow into a

single channel, are located nearby. The largest climbing area with natural rocks and stones is also here. Springs and neighbouring villages are linked by a network of biking and hiking trails. The Pliva Waterfalls lie just 15 kilometres away from here. The River Buna Canals might also become a protected landscape area. 11

NOVOSTI / NEWS

AMERIČKI MAGAZIN UVRSTIO JAJCE NA LISTU NAJLJEPŠIH MALIH GRADIĆA NA SVIJETU

AMERICAN MAGAZINE INCLUDED JAJCE ON ITS LIST OF THE MOST BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL LITTLE TOWNS IN THE WORLD

Američki magazin Thrillist uvrstio je Jajce na listu najljepših malih gradića na svijetu koji svojom ljepotom i neobičnošću ostavljaju putnike bez daha. "Bosni ne nedostaje drevnih planinskih gradova, ali nijedan nije bolje očuvan od starog grada Jajca. Bio je glavni grad srednjovjekovne Bosne i još uvijek možete vidjeti drevni dvorac na brdu i istražiti krivudave ulica prekrivene kaldrmom. No, najveće bogatstvo Jajca je prirodno čudo - vodopad od 72 metra, koji se silovito prelijeva na ušću rijeke Plive u Vrbas. Jajce je s tri strane vezano vodom, što ga čini osnovnom bazom za neke od najboljih bosanskih raftinga", naveo je freelance novinar i prevodilac iz Berlina Conor O’Rourke u magazinu.

American magazine Thrillist included Jajce on its list of the most breathtakingly beautiful little towns in the world. Their compelling and uncommon beauty takes visitors’ breath away. “Bosnia has no shortage of ancient mountain towns, but none are better preserved than the old town of Jajce. It was the capital of medieval Bosnia, and you can still see the ancient hilltop castle, and explore the warren of curving cobbled streets splayed out below. But Jajce’s greatest asset is a natural wonder—the 72-foot Pliva waterfall, which spills over a sheer drop at the confluence of the Pliva and Vrbas rivers. Jajce is bound by water on three sides, making it a prime base for some of Bosnia’s best white water rafting,” Conor O’Rourke, Berlin-based freelance journalist and translator, writes in the magazine.

10 TOWNS IN B&H TO FEATURE “MAGICAL CLIMBING SPOTS“ Bihać, Banjaluka, Prijedor, Jajce, Travnik, Goražde, Sokolac, Ilijaš, Vareš and Zavidovići will feature new tourist attractions and become adventure tourism centres in B&H. In these towns, climbing spots on natural rocks will be set up, among other things. Additional activities such as training sessions for twenty climbing instructors will be carried out, and IT tools will be created: a web platform and a mobile app to promote new tourist products—“climbing spots”—at the regional and international level.

PEĆINA GRMUŠA – TEK OTKRIVENI PRIRODNI BISER BIHAĆA Nadomak Bihaća otkrivena je nova prirodna atrakcija Bosne i Hercegovine – do sada neistražena pećina Grmuša. Grmuša je duboka nekoliko stotina metara, otkrivena je nedavno i kao takva predstavlja jedinstvenu prirodnu atrakciju grada. Do nje vodi odlična planinarska staza koja će uskoro biti označena, a naknadno će biti uređen i ulaz u pećinu koja je izuzetno zahtjevna za obilazak. No jednom kada je posjetite vidjet ćete zaista predivan prirodni biser. 12

Charter let Sarajevo – hurghada – Sarajevo

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USPJEŠNE PRIČE / SUCCESS STORIES

DINO MERLIN

ERVIN MACIĆ

STREAMING IZVOĐAČ GODINE

EVROPSKO ZLATO IZ MATEMATIKE

Hrvatska diskografska udruga je jednoj od najvećih muzičkih zvijezda regiona Dini Merlinu dodijelila Top. HR Music Awards, nagradu za streaming izvođača godine. Merlin je nagradu dobio jer je, između ostalog, krajem 2020. napravio novogodišnji spektakl koji je emitiran preko Moja TV, a kojeg je pratilo preko pola miliona ljudi i koji važi za najbolji online događaj godine u regiji. Osvojio je društvene mreže i sa dva nova singla - "Mi“ i duet sa Senidah "Dođi, dođi".

Zlatnim slovima u historiju takmičenja u oblasti matematike upisao se Ervin Macić iz Vogošće. Ovaj srednjoškolac uspio je na 9. evropskom matematičkom kupu, u juniorskoj diviziji među 257 učenika, plasirati se na deveto mjesto što je donijelo zlato Bosni i Hercegovini. Ervin je i ranije učestvovao na ovom prestižnom takmičenju gdje je uspio osvojiti treću nagradu, a sada i zlato. Macić je inače učenik Druge gimnazije u Sarajevu, bavi se matematikom i informatikom, te se već priprema za predstojeća takmičenja.

DINO MERLIN

ERVIN MACIĆ

THE MOST-STREAMED ARTIST OF THE YEAR

WON EUROPEAN GOLD IN MATHEMATICS

The Croatian Discography Association (CDA) presented the Top. HR Music Award, the award for the most-streamed artist of the year, to Dino Merlin, one of the region’s most popular music artists. It was handed out to Merlin because he, among other things, held a spectacular New Year’s Eve concert which was live streamed on My TV. Over half a million people tuned in to watch the event which is considered to be the best online show of the year in the region. Two of Merlin’s new singles, “Us” and “Come, come”—a duet he sings with Senidah, became immensely popular on social media.

Ervin Macić from Vogošća achieved tremendous success in a mathematics competition. This secondary school student placed ninth in the 9th European Mathematics Competition competing against 257 students in the junior division, and brought a gold medal to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Ervin participated in this prestigious competition on a previous occasion and won the third prize, but now he won the first prize. He attends the Second Secondary School in Sarajevo and loves mathematics and informatics, and is already preparing for the upcoming competitions.

JASMIN I ADNAN

NAJLA ĆEMAN - NAJBOLJI SVJETSKI

USPJEŠNO ISTRČALI VISINU MOUNT EVERESTA

SPA ZAPOSLENIK LUKSUZNIH HOTELA ZA 2021.

Bh. reprezentativac u trail trčanju Jasmin Pajević i fitness i personalni trener Adnan Behlulović za 30 sati u seriji od 20 uspona planinarskom stazom na Bjelašnici istrčali su visinu Mount Everesta. Izazov Run Everesting Jasmin i Adnan istrčali su od Kraljevca u pravcu vrha Hranisava po snježnom prekrivaču koji je dosezao i dva metra. Njihova imena i staza na Bjelašnici će biti upisani u Kuću slavnih oficijelnog “Everesting” izazova.

Bosanka koja živi i radi u SAD-u, Najla Ćeman osvojila je nagradu “Forbes Travel Guide’s Spa Employee of the Year Award” za 2021. godinu. Forbesov turistički vodič (FTG), jedini globalni sistem ocjenjivanja luksuznih hotela, restorana i banja, kao dio dodjele zvjezdica 2021. godine, objavio je da je Najla Ćeman, koja radi u Spa hotela ‘Four Seasons New York Downtown’ osvojila priznanje najboljeg svjetskog Spa zaposlenika svih luksuznih hotela za 2021. godinu. Najla je rođena 1972. godine u Velikoj Kladuši, a sada s porodicom živi u Brooklynu, u New Yorku.

JASMIN AND ADNAN

NAJLA ĆEMAN - THE WORLD’S BEST

RAN THE EQUIVALENT OF MOUNT EVEREST

LUXURY HOTEL SPA EMPLOYEE IN 2021

Jasmin Pajević, a member of the Bosnia and Herzegovinian national trail running team, and Adnan Behlulović, a fitness and personal coach, ran the equivalent height of Mount Everest in a series of 20 runs on a hiking trail in Mount Bjelašnica that lasted 30 hours. Jasmin and Adnan completed the Run Everesting challenge en route from Kraljevac to the benches on the Hranisava Peak by running in the snow up to two metres deep in some places. Their names and the name of the trail in Mount Bjelašnica will be officially added to the “Hall of Fame” on the Everesting website.

Najla Ćeman, a Bosnian who lives and works in the US, won the “Forbes Travel Guide’s Spa Employee of the Year Award” for 2021. Forbes Travel Guide (FTB), the only independent, global rating system for luxury hotels, restaurants and spas, revealed its 2021 Star Award winners: Najla Ćeman of The Spa at “Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown” received the Spa Employee of the Year accolade. Born in 1972 in Velika Kladuša, Najla lives with her family in Brooklyn, New York.

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

EDIN HOZAN, načelnik Općine Jajce

Jajce Još ljepše, razvijenije i modernije

OPĆINA JAJCE KONTINUIRANO ULAŽE U OČUVANJE I REKONSTRUKCIJU KULTURNIH SPOMENIKA, NASTOJEĆI SVAKE GODINE KROZ POSEBNE PROGRAME DODATNO ULJEPŠATI NAJINTERESANTNIJE DIJELOVE GRADA. STOGA NE ČUDI ŠTO SE JAJCE NALAZI NA SPISKU NAJLJEPŠIH MANJIH GRADOVA NA SVIJETU I ŠTO SPADA U TOP TRI TURISTIČKE DESTINACIJE U BIH

Razgovarala: Elma Zećo / Foto: Sandro Nuhanović

pisujući ga kao jedno od najočuvanijih drevnih mjesta u BiH, američki magazin Thrillist uvrstio je nedavno Jajce na spisak najljepših manjih gradova na svijetu. S velikom radošću primljena je ova vijest u Općini Jajce, čiji načelnik, Edin Hozan, ne krije sreću što ljudi širom svijeta prepoznaju bogatstvo i posebnosti Jajca. - Počašćeni smo ovim izborom. Jajce je u mnogim segmentima drugačiji grad od većine gradova u BiH. Obdarila ga je priroda, ali smo pored toga u proteklom periodu uložili značajan trud da bismo bili 16

drugačiji. Među tri smo najpoželjnije turističke destinacije u BiH, a od ove godine imamo jedinstven izgled centra grada s trgom do kojeg se dolazi i odlazi kroz kapije stare nekoliko stoljeća.

BOLJI USLOVI ZA ŽIVOT Jajce prati reputacija grada muzeja pod vedrim nebom. Koliko Općina Jajce ulaže u očuvanje i dalji razvoj Jajca kao cijenjenog prirodno-historijskog kompleksa u BiH? - Nadležnost je podijeljena kada govorimo o čuvanju i zaštiti prirodno-historijskog naslijeđa, zapravo,

postoji zakon koji definiše obaveze i nadležnosti u tom segmentu i najviše bi država trebala ulagati u zaštitu kulturno-historijskog naslijeđa. Naravno, imajući u vidu da je to naše, da je to na području naše opštine, mi svake godine uložimo značajna finansijska sredstva u obnovu, očuvanje i rekonstrukciju kulturnih spomenika. Kada govorimo o prirodnim ljepotama, odnosno, našim najljepšim dijelovima opštine, svake godine kroz posebne programe nastojimo što više uljepšati, urediti i stalno održavati najljepše i najinteresantnije dijelove grada kao što su Vodopad Plive, park uz vodo-

KULTURNI DOGAĐAJI JAJCA pad, park na području naših Mlinčića, naših jezera, iako sam siguran da bismo svi, uključujući više nivoe vlasti s isključivom zakonskom nadležnosti, morali još više činiti. Šta su Vam u ovom trenutku prioriteti? - Uvijek sam imao želju i namjeru da na poziciji načelnika učinim što je moguće više za našu opštinu. Siguran sam da postoje mogućnosti i potencijali, samo treba malo više rada, truda i zajedničkog angažmana da stvorimo bolje uslove za život naših građana. Mi smo se u proteklom periodu, nažalost,

morali baviti rješavanjem osnovnih životnih pitanja kao što su vodosnabdjevanje, kanalizacija, putna infrastruktura... i tu smo utrošili najviše i novca, i truda, i energije. Realizacija tih projekata još uvijek traje na području našeg grada u kojem su nam posebno interesantne oblasti turizma i poljoprivrede. Pokušavamo ih unaprijediti, odnosno, iskoristiti naše turističke potencijele, te s druge strane podržati proizvodnju hrane kako bismo zadržali ljude na selu, imali proizvođače hrane i kako bi naša ruralna područja oživjela i ostala privlačna i budućim generacijama.

Niz kulturnih događaja upotpunjuje turističku ponudu Jajca. Među njima su: Plivske omahe, Pozorišne/Kazališne igre BiH, Šopovi dani, Septembarske večeri, Dani AVNOJ-a, Međunarodni festival folklora “Dani mladosti“, Skokovi s Vodopada, Dani srednjovjekovlja, Međunarodni festival folklora “Dani Vlatka Jurića”, Likovna kolonija, Sajam turizma i eko proizvoda, Međunarodni festival/ smotra duvačkih/puhačkih orkestara-limenih glazbi, Festival dječijeg folklora i Biciklijada.

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

“Među tri smo najpoželjnije turističke destinacije u BiH, a od ove godine imamo jedinstven izgled centra grada s trgom do kojeg se dolazi i odlazi kroz kapije stare nekoliko stoljeća” - Naprosto, svaki nivo vlasti ima svoju obavezu i svoju odgovornost. Od države i državne politike uvijek zavisi najviše. Ključ uspjeha krije se u nekoj generalnoj državnoj politici stvaranja imidža jedne zemlje. Politička stabilnost, sigurnost, diplomatija... sve su to neke oblasti koje direktno utiču na razvoj privrede, a posebno turizma. Imate li Vi privatno omiljenu destinaciju? Pandemija je posebno pogodila industriju turizma. Na koji način se turistički djelatnici Jajca održavaju i pripremaju za novi početak kada se virus korone stavi pod kontrolu? - Prošla godina je bila veoma teška. Općina je pomogla finansijski sve privredne subjekte kojima je bio rad zabranjen, uključujući i ugostitelje, kojih je bilo najviše. Uključili smo se u sve programe kako bismo koliko toliko spasili sezonu. Cilj je bio preživjeti 2020. godinu. Zasigurno turistički radnici imaju težak period iza sebe. Mislim da su zajedno s ugostiteljima i hotelijerima spremni, a kako je bilo i novih investicija vjerujem da će naredni period biti mnogo bolji. Nadamo se da će napokon život krenuti svojim normalnim tokom, jer je ovakvo stanje neodrživo prijeteći gašenjem velikog broja privrednih subjekata. Mi ćemo učiniti koliko možemo da pomognemo i olakšamo ulazak u novu sezonu. 18

U protekloj godini podržali smo inicijativu Turističke zajednice BiH Odmori u BiH i iz Jajca je krenula promotivna aktivnost pod sloganom Odmori najbolje, gdje je srcu najljepše – Odmori u BiH! Godina 2020. ostaje upisana kao veoma značajna u turističkoj ponudi grada Jajca. Otvorena je jedna od najznačajnijih turističkih atrakcija - zip-line u dužini od 250 metara preko jednog od najljepših vodopada na svijetu, vodopada rijeke Plive, koji je i svojevrsno ušće ove rijeke u rijeku Vrbas, što ovu adrenalinsku atrakciju čini jedinstvenom. Sve ovo rezultiralo je povećanim brojem posjeta domaćih turista i svrstalo Jajce među tri najpoželjnije turističke destinacije u BiH.

- U našoj zemlji ima mnogo lijepih mjesta i teško je nešto posebno izdvajati. Ako govorimo o destinacijama izvan Jajca, onda bi to mogli biti Stari most u Mostaru, Baščaršija, Buna, Una u Bihaću... Ako govorimo o Jajcu, onda su to, definitivno, Mlinčići, prostor oko mlinova i naša jezera.

VAŽNOST STVARANJA IMIDŽA

- To je Meša Selimović.

Turizam za BiH može biti izuzetna privredna grana. Prema Vašem mišljenju, šta država mora učiniti da bismo uspjeli u tome?

- Za 10 godina se vidim kao sretni građanin opštine Jajce, koja će biti još ljepša, razvijenija i u svakom segmentu modernija.

Kako provodite slobodno vrijeme? - Imam ga zaista veoma malo. Uglavnom ga posvećujem porodici, mada često zna biti popunjeno događajima i manifestacijama na kojima se očekuje prisustvo načelnika. Postoji li književnik čijim se djelima rado vraćate?

Kako se vidite za deset godina?

EDIN HOZAN, Mayor of Jajce Municipality

Jajce

A More Beautiful, Developed and Modern Place

THROUGH SPECIAL PROGRAMMES, JAJCE MUNICIPALITY REGULARLY SPENDS PUBLIC FUNDS TO PRESERVE AND RECONSTRUCT ITS CULTURAL MONUMENTS IN AN EFFORT TO IMPROVE THE OVERALL APPEARANCE OF THE MOST INTERESTING PARTS OF JAJCE. IT IS NO WONDER THAT JAJCE WAS INCLUDED ON THE LIST OF THE MOST BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL LITTLE TOWNS IN THE WORLD AND THAT IT IS RANKED AMONG THE TOP THREE TOURIST DESTINATIONS IN B&H Interviewed by: Elma Zećo / Photo: Sandro Nuhanović

escribing it as one of the best preserved ancient towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina, American magazine Thrillist recently included Jajce on the list of the most breathtakingly beautiful little towns in the world. The people of Jajce were overjoyed to hear the news, and Edin Hozan, the mayor of Jajce Municipality, is

CULTURAL EVENTS IN JAJCE A series of cultural events complements Jajce’s tourist offer. Some of them are: Plivske omahe (a spiritual poetry and music festival), B&H Theatre Games, Nikola Šop Poetry Days, September Evenings, Days of the Anti-Fascist Council for the National Liberation of Yugoslavia, “Youth Days”, Waterfall Jumping Competition, Days of the Middle Ages, International Folklore Festival “Vlatko Jurić Days”, Fine Arts Colony, Tourism and Eco Products Fair, International Festival of Marching Bands, Children’s Folklore Festival, and Jajce Bike Tour.

thrilled to hear that people around the world know how beautiful and special his town is. - We’re honoured to be on the list. Jajce is in many segments different from most of the other towns in B&H. It is endowed with stunning natural beauty, and in the past year we endeavoured to be different. We’re in the top three most desira-

ble tourist destinations in B&H, and as of this year our town centre has a unique look featuring a square you can come to and leave from through centuries’ old gates.

BETTER LIVING CONDITIONS Jajce is reputed as an open air museum. How much funds does Jajce 19

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

“We’re in the top three most desirable tourist destinations in B&H, and as of this year our town centre has a unique look featuring a square you can come to and leave from through centuries’ old gates”

Municipality invest in conserving and developing the town of Jajce as a treasured natural and historic gem in B&H? - Jurisdictions over the conservation and protection of Bosnian and Herzegovinian natural and historic heritage are split. Actually, there’s a law that lays down the duties, powers and competences in this segment, and state government should be the largest investor when it comes to protecting the country’s cultural and historic heritage. Naturally, since some of these cultural and historic heritage sites are situated in our municipality, we invest a substantial amount of money every year in renovating, repairing and conserving them. In regards to the natural attractions, i.e. the most beautiful and popular sites in our municipality such as Pliva Waterfalls and the neighbouring park, the park next to Mlinčići (watermills), and the green areas around our lakes, special programmes are implemented each year as part of an ongoing effort to keep them clean, tidy and well-maintained. I believe that all of us, including higher levels of administration that have the exclusive competence in this matter, need to do much more. 20

What are your priorities at the moment? - I’ve always wanted and planned to do as much as I could for our municipality when I become mayor. I’m convinced there’s a lot of potential and things you can do, all it takes is to work a little more, try a little harder and put our hands together to create better living conditions for our community. Unfortunately, in the previous period we had to deal with the basic services, such as

water supply, wastewater (sewerage) and road networks… and we’ve invested most of our money, effort and energy in resolving these issues. These projects are still being implemented throughout Jajce. Tourism and agriculture are particularly important to us. We’re trying to improve these two sectors, i.e. use the tourist potential we’ve got. On the other hand, we’re also trying to keep people from fleeing the rural areas and to support small food producers in an effort to revive and keep our countryside attractive for the younger generations. The coronavirus pandemic has affected the tourism industry. What are people working in the industry in

Jajce doing to keep their business running, and how are they preparing for a fresh start once the virus is under control? - Last year has been really tough. The municipality provided financial assistance to all businesses that were subject to an operation ban implemented to limit the spread of the coronavirus, including catering businesses which were the greatest in number. We got involved in all kinds of support programmes to save the tourist season as much as we could. The aim was to survive 2020. Workers in the tourism industry have had a really difficult year. I believe that the tourism sector, together with the hotels and catering sector, is ready for a fresh start, and with the recent investments in these sectors the period ahead of us seems very promising. We hope that life will return to normal because this situation has put an unbearable strain on our economy and threatens to shut down a large number of businesses. We’re planning to do as much as we can to help and make it easier for them to start the new tourist season. Over the course of the past year, we supported the Odmori u BiH initiative (Go on Holiday in B&H) organised by

the Bosnian and Herzegovinian Tourist Board. The promotional campaign was launched in Jajce under the slogan Have the best holiday in your own country – go on holiday in BiH! Jajce will remember the year 2020 as an important year in its tourist offer because it saw the launch of one of the largest tourist attractions in town: a 250-metre long zip line spanning one of the world’s most stunning waterfalls—Pliva Waterfalls. The River Pliva enters the River Vrbas right here and that is what makes this adrenaline attraction quite unique. Thanks to these activities, the number of foreign and local tourists has increased and ranked Jajce in top three most desirable tourist destinations in B&H.

BUILDING AN IMAGE IS IMPORTANT The tourism industry could flourish in B&H. In your opinion, what should state government do to make this happen? - Simply, each level of government has got its duties and responsibilities. Everything always depends on state government and state policy. In general, the key to success is to build a country image. Political stability, security, diplomacy… the-

se are all factors that have a direct impact on economic development, especially in the tourism industry. Do you have a favourite travel destination? - There are many gorgeous places in our country and it’s difficult to pinpoint any one place in particular. If we talk about locations beyond Jajce, then it’s the Old Bridge in Jajce, Baščaršija in Sarajevo, Buna, Una in Bihać… If we talk about locations in Jajce, then it’s certainly Mlinčići and the surrounding area, and the lakes we have here. How do you spend your free time? - I’ve got very little free time, really. I usually spend it with my family, but I often use it to go to events and gatherings I’m expected to attend as a mayor. Is there an author you always like to go back to? - Yes, Meša Selimović. Where do you see yourself in ten years? - In ten years, I see myself happily living in Jajce, which is going to become a more beautiful, developed and modern municipality than it is now in every sense of the word. 21

#REALTHIRDWORLD

Autor kolumne: Anita Barjaktarević, RED AFRICA TRAVEL

BALKAN

mjesto crkvi samo 300 godina mlađih od same hrišćanske religije ZABORAVLJENE VIŠE OD HILJADU GODINA, NJIHOVE BOGATE HISTORIJE ČEKALE SU DA BUDU PONOVNO OTKRIVENE.

ako se treći svijet danas koristi kao pogrdni izraz, fraza je zapravo stvorena kako bi opisala nacije svijeta koje su odbile slijediti naraciju o hladnom ratu, odbijajući da budu zavisne i podređene države, ili Sovjetskom Savezu na Istoku, ili Sjedinjenim Državama na zapadu. Ove nacije odlikovala je stoička odlučnost stečena dugogodišnjom ustrajnosti i spremnošću da se suoče s ogromnim izazovima i silama, čak iako je to značilo da se sami bez pomoći drugih suoče s istim. Države trećeg svijeta bile su veoma ponosne na svoje sposobnosti da prevladaju poteškoće držeći se svojih neovisnosti i jedinstvenih kultura, kultura koje su zadržane čak i tokom perioda kolonizacije i potčinjavanja, uprkos ogromnim naporima osvajača i kolonijalnih upravitelja.

Historija i domet Rimskog carstva i hrišćanstva jedna je od najslavnijih, a opet najviše zaboravljenih epoha u trećem svijetu. Milioni dolara troše se svake godine na vjerska hodočašća u mjestima koja se spominju u Bibliji. Novac se troši na avionske karte, ture, hotele, suvenire, s tim da se većina tih putovanja kreće prema veoma malo destinacija. Rim i Jeruzalem prednjače u tim razgledanjima, s Grčkom koja ih prati u stopu.

VIŠE OD SEDAMDESET RANOHRIŠĆANSKIH CRKVI Balkan sa svojom dugom historijom i svojim mjestom u središtu Rimskog carstva, prepoznatljivom lozom balkanskih rimskih careva, bojnim poljima i legitimnom pretenzijom na značajan dio hrišćanske historije, trebao bi biti pri vrhu liste

historijskih mjesta koja se moraju posjetiti. Ostaci najstarijih crkvi hrišćanske tradicije otprilike su tri stotine godina mlađi od same hrišćanske religije. Ilegalni sve do Dioklecijanovih progona od 303. do 313. godine, ostaci nekih od najstarijih crkvi na svijetu razasuti su po cijeloj Bosni i Hercegovini. Često zanemareni pored veličanstvenosti crkvi sagrađenih nakon 900-ih, te prekrasnih historijskih džamija s jedinstvenim balkanskim karakteristikama, ostaci više od sedamdeset ranohrišćanskih crkvi otkriveni su samo u Bosni i Hercegovini. Ove crkve su obično građene između 300-ih i 600-ih godina, a zatim su sravnjene sa zemljom u napadima Huna, Avara i tokom naseljavanja Slovena. Zaboravljene više od hiljadu godina, njihove bogate historije čekale su da

budu ponovno otkrivene. Jedan od lijepih primjera takve crkve je lokalitet Gradac, nedaleko od Gruda u Hercegovini. Rijedak primjer dvostruke bazilike, ova crkva sagrađena je početkom 400-ih i uništena oko dvjesto godina kasnije. Ponovo je otkrivena tek 1968. Kao i kod mnogih crkvi kroz historiju, područje oko crkve koristilo se kao groblje - upotreba groblja nastavila se i nakon što je crkva uništena. Ovo groblje u Hercegovini koristi se više od 1500 godina, a nadgrobni spomenici na tom području odražavaju ovaj dugi historijski tok. Evolucija grobnih spomenika odmah postaje očita, čak i ljudima koji nisu historičari. Još dvije stvari čine važnim ostatke ove ranohrišćanske crkve za historiju. Ona se nalazila blizu trase rimske vojne ceste. Na tom po23

#REALTHIRDWORLD

više informacija o vremenskoj traci asimilacije ilirskog jezika i kulture u rimskom, a kasnije i u slovenskom svijetu.

VAŽNO SREDIŠTE RASTUĆEG HRIŠĆANSKOG SVIJETA Širom Bosne i Hercegovine pronađeno je obilje rimskih i ranohrišćanskih artefakata, te su uloženi napori da se oni sačuvaju. Posebno se ističu kolekcije u muzeju u Visokom i muzeju pri Franjevačkom samostanu u Jajcu. Oba muzeja su skupila širok spektar dobro izloženih artefakata, te imaju docente obrazovane za taj period historije Balkana koji su željni da svoje znanje podijele s posjetiocima.

dručju se nalaze i druge, ne tako dobro očuvane crkve iz antike. Duž rimskih puteva hodao je sveti Pavle propovijedajući. Iako ne postoje čvrsti dokazi koliko je sveti Pavle tačno prodro u Iliriju, iz Biblije znamo da je posjetio Iliriju: “... u snazi znakova i čudesa, u snazi Božijeg Duha, tako od Jeruzalema, i daleko sve do Ilirika, u potpunosti sam propovijedao ...” Da je Pavle zaista uspio ući u današnju Bosnu i Hercegovinu, hodao bi tim rimskim putem čiji se ostaci i dalje mogu vidjeti na više lokacija. S obzirom na druge legende povezane sa svetim Pavlom, poput one koja je njegov legendarni brodolom smjestila na hrvatski otok Mljet, a ne na Maltu, ne može se odbaciti mogućnost njegovog putovanja kroz rimsku Hercegovinu.

SVETI JERONIM Druga važna stavka za crkvu u Gradcu je blizina jednog od mjesta povezanih s rođenjem sveca koji je veći dio Biblije preveo na latinski,

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svetog Jeronima od Stridona. Sveti Jeronim, rođen negdje u 340-ima, nije odgovoran samo za veći dio biblijskog prijevoda, već je i autor ogromne biblioteke tumačenja o hrišćanskim učenjima i historijskim figurama koje su došle tri stotine godina prije njegovog rođenja. Ne zna se sa sigurnošću precizno mjesto njegovog rođenja, ali i Šujica i Grahovo su na listi mogućnosti. Drevna gradačka crkva nije daleko od Šujice i potpuno je moguće da je Jeronim, čiji su roditelji bili hrišćani, također putovao u Rim putem kojm je Pavle možda išao i znao za kongregaciju koja će graditi crkvu u Gradcu.

Za mnogo stvari tokom rimske ere na Balkanu mora se izvoditi zaključak, jer su direktni dokazi uništeni kada su invazije na Balkan započele 500-ih godina. U jednom značajnijem slučaju, ruševine rimske vile rustice u Višićima bile su zakopane ispod ostataka slavenskog naselja. Ono što je ostalo je riznica historije iz vremena kada je Balkan bio važno središte rastućeg hrišćanskog svijeta. Između ostalog, balkanski car Rimljana, Konstantin Veliki, rođen u današnjem Nišu, učinio je hrišćanstvo zvaničnom religijom Rimskog carstva. Konstantinova odredba potakla je širenje hrišćanstva širom Evrope i svijeta, stavljajući Balkan u kontekst utjecajnog i presudnog trenutka kao i mjesta u historiji koje se često ne prepoznaje.

Sveti Jeronim pruža još jednu važnu vezu s prošlošću Balkana. Poznato je da je bio poliglot, jer je preveo veći dio Biblije s grčkog na latinski, no Jeronim je iza sebe ostavio i citate o svom maternjem jeziku, napisavši u jednom pismu da ljudi u ruralnim područjima odakle dolazi još uvijek govore ilirskim jezikom. Ovo je važan trag koji može dati još

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Column by: Anita Barjaktarević, RED AFRICA TRAVEL

BALKANS

a Place With Churches Just 300 Years Younger Than Christianity FORGOTTEN FOR MORE THAN A THOUSAND YEARS, THEIR RICH HISTORY WAS WAITING TO BE REDISCOVERED.

lthough the Third World is used now as a derogatory term, the phrase was actually coined to describe the nations of the world who rejected the narrative of the Cold War, refusing to be subservient client states to either the Soviet Union in the East or the United States in the West. These nations were characterized by a stoic resolve gained by years of perseverance and a willingness to face enormous odds, even if that meant facing those odds alone. Third World nations had enormous pride in their ability to overcome hardships while holding onto their independence and unique cultures, often ancient cultures which had been retained even during periods of colonization and subjugation despite the best efforts of invaders and colonial administrators. 25

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forgotten for over a thousand years, their rich histories waiting to be rediscovered. One beautiful example of such a church is the Gradac site, not far from Grude in Herzegovina. A rare example of the double basilica, this church was built in the early 400s and destroyed about two hundred years later - not to be rediscovered until 1968. As with many churches throughout history, the area around the church was used as a graveyard and the use as a graveyard continued even after the church was destroyed. This graveyard in Herzegovina has been in use for over 1500 years, and the headstones in the area reflect this long line of history. The evolution of grave monuments is immediately obvious, even to non-historians.

he history and reach of the Roman Empire and Christianity is one of the most glorious and yet most forgotten epochs in the Third World. Millions of dollars are spent every year on religious pilgrimages to sites mentioned in the Bible. Money is spent on airfare, on tours, on hotels, on souvenirs; with most of those trips heading for a very few destinations. Rome and Jerusalem lead the pack for these explorations, with Greece a very short hop behind.

MORE THAN SEVENTY EARLY CHRISTIAN CHURCHES The Balkans, with its long history and its early place at the center of the Roman Empire, its distinguished lineage of Balkan Roman Emperors, battle sites, and a legitimate claim to a significant amount of Christian 26

history, should be near the top of the historical traveler’s must-visit list. The remains of the oldest churches of the Christian tradition are about three hundred years younger than the Christian religion itself. Illegal until after the Diocletian Persecutions of 303 - 313 AD, the remains of some of the oldest churches in the world are scattered throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. Often overlooked next to the magnificence of churches built after the 900s and the gorgeous and historic mosques with their own unique Balkan characteristics, the remains of more than seventy early Christian churches have been uncovered throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina alone. These churches were usually built between the 300s and 600s, and then razed to the ground in attacks by Huns, Avars, and during the settlement of the Slavs. They lay

Two more things make the remains of this early Christian church important to history: it was near the route of the Roman military road. Other, less well preserved, churches from antiquity are also in the area. It was along the Roman roads that Saint Paul walked, preaching. Although there is no firm evidence of exactly how far into Illyria St Paul penetrated, we know that he visit Illyria from the Bible: “…in the power of signs and wonders, in the power of God’s Spirit, so that from Jerusalem and as far as to Illyricum, I have fully preached…” If Paul actually did make it into what is now Bosnia and Herzegovina, he would have walked upon that Roman road, the remains of which can still be seen in multiple sites. Given other legends associated with St. Paul, such as the one which placed his legendary shipwreck on the Croatian island of Mljet rather than Malta, the possibility of his journey through the Roman Herzegovina cannot be dismissed.

SAINT JEROME The second item of importance with the Gradac church is its proximity to one of the sites associated with the birth of the saint who translated much of the Bible into Latin, Saint Jerome of Stridon. Saint Jerome,

born sometime in the 340s, is not only responsible for much of the Biblical translation, but also authored a huge library of commentaries on Christian teachings and the historic figures that came in the three hundred years before his birth. His exact birthplace is not known with certainty, but both Šuica and Grahovo are on the list of possibilities. The ancient Gradac church is not far from Šuica and it is entirely possible that Jerome, who had Christian parents, also traveled to Rome upon the road that Paul may have used and knew of the congregation that would build the church in Gradac.

preserve them. Of special note are the collections held at the museum in Visoko and the museum attached to the Franciscan monastery in Jajce. Both have gathered a wide range of artifacts, well displayed, and have helpful docents well-educated in that period of Balkan history and eager to share them with visitors. Many things during the Roman era in the Balkans have to be inferred because direct evidence was destroyed when the invasions of the Balkans began in the 500s. In one notable instance, the ruins of the Roman villa rustica at Višići were

buried under the remains of a Slav settlement. What was left behind, though, is a treasure trove of history of a time the Balkans was an important center of the growing Christian world. It was, after all, a Balkan Emperor of the Romans, Constantine the Great - born in what is now Niš, who made Christianity the official religion of the Roman Empire. It was Constantine’s decree that urged the spread of Christianity throughout Europe and the world, placing the Balkans in a crucial and influential moment and place in history that is not acknowledged often enough.

Saint Jerome provides yet another important link to the past of the Balkans. We know that he was a polyglot, as he translated much of the Bible from Greek into Latin. But Jerome left behind quotes about his native language as well, writing in one letter that people in the rural areas where he was from still spoke the Illyrian language. This is an important clue that may give even more information about the timeline of the assimilation of Illyrian language and culture into the Roman, and later Slavic, world.

IMPORTANT CENTRE FOR THE SPREAD OF CHRISTIANITY Roman and early Christian artifacts have been found in great abundance throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina, and some efforts have been made to

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

FINE FOOD

Tradicionalni proizvodi koji su nam

razgalili nepca

RIJETKO KO JE MOGAO OSTATI RAVNODUŠAN NAKON ŠTO JE PROBAO UKUSNE DELICIJE BRENDA FINE FOOD KOJI JE ZA TILI ČAS OSVOJIO SARAJEVO. VEĆ NAKON PRVIH SLASNIH ZALOGAJA ZA KOJE SE NIJE MOGAO ČEKATI IZLAZAK IZ NJIHOVE PEKARE, MNOGI BI ODMAH ZNALI DA ĆE U NJU ČESTO SVRAĆATI.

FINE FOOD

Traditional

Food Products to Delight

Our Taste Buds

HARDLY ANYONE CAN RESIST FINE FOOD’S TASTY DELICACIES ONCE THEY HAVE TRIED IT. THE BRAND WON THE HEARTS OF SARAJEVANS IN A TWINKLING. THEY COULD NOT WAIT TO STEP OUTSIDE THE BAKERY TO ENJOY A FEW TASTY BITES, AND MANY KNEW STRAIGHT AWAY THAT THEY WOULD REGULARLY COME BACK FOR ANOTHER TREAT. 31

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

AUTENTIČAN OKUS TRADICIONALNIH BOSANSKIH RECEPTURA

sljednjih prehrambenih tehnologija u proizvodnji.

Svoju priču koja putem do srca vodi preko stomaka sarajevska industrija pekarskih proizvoda Fine Food započela je 2018. godine. Iako potpuno novi brend na bh. tržištu, ubrzo su ga osvojili slojevitim asortimanom koji obuhvata gotove i polugotove pekarske proizvode, poslastice i gotova jela, koji se kroz vlastitu maloprodajnu mrežu, te eksternu veleprodaju, plasiraju lokalno, kao i na strana tržišta. Već poslije prvog zalogaja, osjetit ćete autentičan okus tradicionalnih bosanskih receptura i razgaliti svoje nepce. To je zbog toga što su svi proizvodi iz njihovog asortimana razvijeni u saradnji sa gastronomskim stručnjacima, napravljeni od posebno odabranih sastojaka sa fokusom na njihov kvalitet i porijeklo i uz upotrebu po-

Njihove objekte u Sarajevu do sada niste mogli zaobići. Širina Fine Food mreže među kojima su naročito popularne lokacije u Titovoj ulici, kod Narodnog pozorišta i sarajevske Katedrale osvojit će svakoga ko je u potrazi za ugodnim mjestom za nešto pregristi, kako zbog prilagođene ponude, tako i zbog jedinstvenog uređenja enterijera koji su svojestveni nekim svjetskim metropolama. Kod njih su rado viđeni gosti oni koji svraćaju po popularne rezane hljebove koji dolaze upakovani iz higijenskih razloga, ali i neodoljivo ukusne artisan hljebove. A svraćaju i oni koji pored pekarskih proizvoda žele pojesti nešto toplo poput sezonske juhe, savršen sendvič ili druga ukusna i slana, svježe pripremljena jela. Pored šarolike ponude peciva i

ATRAKTIVNI RESTORANI

drugih jela, u Fine Foodu se možete zasladiti i modernim delikatesama poput ovsenih kaša, cookiesa, a uskoro i deserta u čaši koji će biti nešto u potpunosti novo na sarajevskom tržištu.

PROIZVODI NA POLICAMA SUPERMARKETA Sve oni koji rado svraćaju u pekare Fine Food obradovala je vijest da se njihovi omiljeni proizvodi mogu pronaći i na policama supermarketa u Sarajevu. Smrznute pite, somuni, podloge za pizzu, proizvodi od lisnatog tijesta rado se kupuju za kućnu ostavu kako bi, u periodima kada vam treba brzo gotovo jelo ili kada ste suviše umorni da ga pravite, imali vrhunske delicije na vašoj trpezi. Smrznuta jela nezasluženo se nalaze na popisu omraženih, jer se industrijskim zamrzavanjem sačuva više hranjivih tvari nego bilo koji drugi način pohrane, tako da su pro-

Kontinuirane investicije u savremeni proizvodni pogon i edukaciju uposlenika, upotreba posljednje tehnologije u proizvodnim procesima, te međunarodni certifikati kao što su ISO 9001:2015, HACCP, IFS i Halal, služe kao garancija za kvalitet Fine Food proizvoda.

izvodi Fine Fooda nutritivno bogati kao i svježi. Svi znamo da za pravljenje pite treba vremena i vještine, a kulinarski majstori Fine Fooda olakšali su vam posao, pa tako u njihovoj ponudi imate savijenu pitu – u zvrku, savršenog omjera fila i jufke, što je čini pravim gurmanskim užitkom. Posebno je iznenađenje bilo da je pakovani somun Fine Fooda bio svjež kao i tek napravljen. Iako se radi o veoma jednostavnoj vrsti proizvoda za čiju su pripremu potrebna samo tri osnovna sastojka, pravi somun mogu spremiti samo majstori zanata, kakvi upravo rade u Fine Foodu! Mnogi ne vole čekanje da tijesto nadođe,čak ni za pizzu, stoga ako želite pripremiti jedno od najpopularnijih brzih jela današnjice idealno rješenje za vas su podloge za pizzu Fine Fooda. Izrađuju se prema jedinstvenoj recepturi italijanskog majstora, te predstavljaju spoj kvaliteta, brzine i jednostavnosti pripreme. Sve što je potrebno za

savršenu pizzu poput one u Italiji, jeste dodati željene sastojke na zamrznutu podlogu, te ih skupa termički doraditi nekoliko minuta u pećnici. Savršeno za konzumente koji žele autentičnu italijansku pizzu u svom domu unutar nekoliko minuta, kao i za poslovne korisnike koji žele pojednostaviti operativne procedure te izbjeći troškove i prepreke na koje mogu naići u pripremi perfektne podloge za pizzu.

MISIJA I VIZIJA FINE FOOD Kada su počeli svoju priču, Fine Food je pred sebe postavio misiju da želi postati lider u segmentu industrijskog pekarstva i ugostiteljskih usluga na domaćem tržištu, te „prvi odabir“ kupaca prilikom kupovine. Svoje napore usmjeravaju na zadovoljenje prehrambenih potreba plasirajući visoko-kvalitetne proizvode kroz vlastitu maloprodajnu mrežu, trgovačke lance, ugostiteljske objekte, fran-

šizne objekte te izvozom na strana tržišta uz stalno praćenje tržišnih i tehnoloških trendova. Kroz partnerski odnos, tj. franžizni koncept Fine Food je do danas u BiH otvorio tri partnerska objekta , što je samo početak, jer kao firma želi podstaći jačanje malih kompanija i privrednika iz branše omogućavajući potpuno pristupačan model franšize dijeleći svoj know-how, zbog čega i druge kompanije žele biti dio Fine Food priče. Da su na dobrom putu potvrđuje i činjenica da kao i sve velike kompanije nastoje biti društveno odgovorne, stvarajući bolje okruženje za cjelokupnu društvenu zajednicu u kojoj žive i rade, kroz donacije i podršku važnijim projektima. Veoma je važno istaknuti i to da su ekološki osviještena kompanija, jer u svom proizvodnom pogonu imaju i najsavremeniju mašinu za duboko smrzavanje hrane koji radi na CO2, i kao takva je jedinstvena u Sarajevu. 33

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

AUTHENTIC TASTE OF TRADITIONAL BOSNIAN CUISINE Fine Food bakery business started to win people’s hearts through stomachs in Sarajevo back in 2018. Even though it was established as a new brand on the Bosnian-Herzegovinian market, Fine Food won the market with a wide range of products including ready-made and semi-finished bakery products, pastries and confectionery. Through its own retail network and outsourced wholesale, Fine Food distributes its products in domestic and foreign markets. After the first few bites, you will enjoy the authentic taste of traditional Bosnian recipes and please your taste buds. That is because each product was developed with the help of culinary experts and made with carefully selected ingredients while also paying close attention to their quality and origin 34

and making use of the latest food processing technologies.

RESTAURANTS IN POPULAR LOCATIONS You cannot steer clear of Fine Food bakeries in Sarajevo because the company operates a wide retail network. The three most popular locations are on Titova Street, near the National Theatre, and across the street from the Sacred Heart Cathedral. Anyone looking for a bite to eat in a cosy ambiance can enjoy Fine Food’s specialty items in a uniquely designed setting reminiscent of interior design styles found in some of the world’s capitals. Customers flock to Fine Food bakeries to pick up popular sliced loaves of bread wrapped in plastic for hygienic reasons and super tasty artisan bread products. Those who want to eat a warm meal, such as seasonal soup, a perfect sandwich or other fresh

and tasty savoury dishes, also stop by one of these bakeries. In addition to a wide variety of bakery products and pasties, they offer modern delicacies for those who have a sweet tooth such as oat meals and cookies, and soon enough the offer will also include something completely new on the market in Sarajevo—a dessert served in a glass.

TRADITIONAL FOOD PRODUCTS FOUND ON SUPERMARKET SHELVES All those who like to frequent Fine Food bakeries were pleased to learn that their favourite products became available on supermarket shelves in Sarajevo. People like to buy products such as frozen pita (pie), somun (a soft, chewy flatbread), pizza dough and phyllo dough to stock up on at home so that they can serve and eat delicious meals whenever they need a quick meal or

Continuous investments in the company’s food production facility and employee training and development, the use of the latest technology in production processes and international certificates such as ISO 9001:2015, HACCP, IFS and Halal, serve as a guarantee of quality of Fine Food products. when they are too tired to cook. Frozen meals have an undeserved bad reputation, because industrial freezing allows preservation of nutritional value in food better than any other method, which means that Fine Food products are nutritious and fresh. We all know that baking a pie requires skill and time, but chefs at Fine Food made it easier for you— their offer includes a spiral-shaped pie with the perfect balance of filling and jufka (dough), which is why it is a real culinary delight. It was rather surprising that Fine Food’s packaged somun was just as fresh as the freshly made one. Even though it is a very simple food product which requires just three basic ingredients, only the true masters of the art of cooking, just like those that work at Fine Food, can make the real somun! Many people do not like to wait for the dough to rise—even the pizza dough—so if you want to make one of today’s most popular meals, Fine Food pizza dough is the best choice for you. Easy to bake and the perfect combination of quality and speed, it is made using a unique recipe created by an Italian chef. All you need to do to make a perfect pizza like the one you eat in Italy is to add the ingredients of your choice on the frozen dough and bake it in the oven for a few minutes. This is the best choice for consumers who fancy eating authentic Italian pizza at home within minutes and for catering business professionals who want to simplify their business processes by reducing costs and avoiding obstacles they may come across in making the perfect pizza dough.

FINE FOOD’S MISSION AND VISION When Fine Food began to operate, its mission was to become a market leader in the bakery and catering industry in the domestic market as well as customers’ “first-choice” in this segment. The focus of the effort was to satisfy the food demand by offering high-quality food products through the company’s own retail network, retail chains, catering establishments, franchise businesses in the domestic market, and through exporting into foreign markets, constantly staying on top of market and technology trends. Through business ventures, i.e. the franchise model, right now Fine Food runs three franchises in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and this is only the beginning. Fine Food aims to strengthen small businesses and business owners in this branch by offering affordable franchise opportunities and sharing its know-how, and this is why other companies want to become a part of this story. The fact that all major companies are making an effort to foster corporate social responsibility by creating a better environment in the society they live and run business in by making donations and providing support to major projects goes to show that Fine Food is on the right track. It is important to note that Fine Food is an eco-friendly business. In its production facility, it installed a deep freezer which uses carbon dioxide to rapidly freeze any type of food products, and is the only food processing business in Sarajevo that uses this technology.

Adresa/Address: Pofalićka 5, 71000 Sarajevo Telefon/Telephone: 033/ 278-900

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

UNA BEJTOVIĆ, savjetnica za odnose s javnošću

“FASCINANTNO JE SVAKI DAN IZNOVA POTVRĐIVATI SE I KREIRATI NEŠTO NOVO”

Razgovarala: Elma Zećo / Foto: Irfan Redžović

na Bejtović je svoju karijeru započela na radiju sa 16 godina. Za djevojku izraženih retoričkih mogućnosti televizija je bila logičan slijed, da bi kasnije počela lagano graditi i svoj put kao PR. Vrijedna i odvažna, nakon 20 godina rada u medijima otvorila je 36

svoju agenciju za odnose s javnošću Bejtovic Communications prepoznatljivu posebno po projektima u oblasti kulture i ljudskih prava. Uvijek je radila ono što voli i zna na najbolji mogući način, a danas predstavlja jedno od najvažnijih imena PR industrije u BiH.

UROĐENI TALENAT Zanimljiva priča iz Vašeg djetinjstva o tome kako Vam je mama plaćala da ne pričate dok gosti sjede, učešće u priredbama još u obdaništu kao i rani početak školovanja govornog aparata ilustruju Vašu urođenu sklonost

za govorništvo. S koliko godina ste shvatili da je to talenat koji treba postati profesija? - (Smijeh) Bila sam i ostala prava pričalica. Kao i mnogo toga u mom životu, došlo je spontano. Počela sam raditi na radiju sa 16 godina, ali ni tada nisam imala na umu ideju da unovčim svoj talenat, nego sam htjela raditi nešto korisno u zlu vremenu i lakše prevazići sve što nam se tada događalo. Mislim da je više došlo s prvim treninzima javnog nastupa i prezentacijskih vještina na koje su me pozivali, te kada sam došla u situaciju da vještine, znanje i iskustvo podijelim s drugima. Dugogodišnji rad u medijima i oblasti PR-a iznjedrili su privatnu agenciju za odnose s javnošću Bejtovic Communications. Koji projekti su već sada Vaša specijalnost? - Mnogo smo radili projekte iz kulture i ljudskih prava, kao i projekte koji imaju neku društveno korisnu dimenziju. Na No Limit festivalu osvojili smo 2. mjesto za kampanju za Tylol Hot, što znači da se s lakoćom uživimo u povjerenu komunikaciju i planiramo aktivnosti relevantne za tog klijenta. Sasvim sigurno festival MESS ima posebno mjesto, ali i organizacije koje se bore za prava žena koje su preživjele ratno seksualno nasilje, poput TRIAL-a, dok smo, recimo, uz projekat EPA razvili posebnu svijest i interesovanje za teme iz reforme energetskog sektora. Ljepota našeg posla je što moramo naučiti mnogo o našim klijentima kako bismo suštinu i korisne činjenice predstavili javnostima. Koje osobine posebno cijenite prilikom izbora saradnika? - Pristojnost, pismenost, fokus na rješenje, a ne na problem, da im je stalo da se posao završi na najbolji mogući način. Kad ti je poslovni početak pod granatama i snajperima, svako prenemaganje u 2021. je uvredljivo. Cijenim kad ne moram ništa dva puta reći i kad neko napravi korak više da bi cjelokupni rezultat bio izvrstan.

“S ciljem odmora nadam se nekom tirkiznom moru i bijelom pijesku, ali Madrid i Lisabon su mi sljedeće turističke destinacije za obilazak” Šta u poslu nikada ne biste prihvatili da radite? - Nije naš posao da peremo tuđi obraz, niti da promoviramo i zagovaramo neetičnost u bilo kojoj formi.

ŽRTVOVALA SAM BEZBRIŽNOST Posmatrajući generalno bh. javnu scenu, kako biste ocijenili osviještenost o važnosti dobrog nastupa? - Mi smo retorički potpuno neosviješteno društvo. Od obrazovanja do raznih profesija, politike posebno, ne postoji sistem koji potiče artikuliranje vlastitog stava i usavršavanje komunikacijskih vještina. Za osobe koje se pojavljuju u javnosti prioritet bi morao biti pobrinuti se da po-

ruka bude adekvatno prenesena, a ako sami ne znaju, onda da potraže savjet. Međutim, bh. diskurs je slika prilika u državi i teško da će se to ubrzo promijeniti. Čega ste se najviše odricali na putu do uspjeha? - Ne osjećam da sam se odricala bilo čega. Radila sam ono što volim, umijem i znam na najbolji način. Propustili su se istina mnogi vikendi, često su i praznici bili radni, iz vremena radija i televizije žrtvovao se dobar san kad se radio jutarnji program i slično. Žrtvovala sam bezbrižnost, koja mnogima dođe s krajem radnog vremena. Ako imate odgovornost prema klijentima, onda postoji jedna vrsta 37

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

kontinuirane brige dok sve ne bude završeno kako treba. Postoje li dostignuća koja su Vaše najbliže i Vas učinila izuzetno ponosnim? - Daleke 1996. otvorila sam prvi koncert Dine Merlina u Skenderiji s nepunih 19 godina, a četiri godine poslije sam otvorila njegovo prvo Koševo. Tad se takve prilike baš nisu pružale ni svakome ni svaki dan. Boravak na CNN International Desku u Atlanti 2006. i breaking news kad je umro Slobodan Milošević dalo je i meni i mojim rahmetli roditeljima sigurno osjećaj ponosa i zadovoljstva da sam bila u prilici i u takvom okruženju pokazati šta znam testirajući svoje profesionalne principe i kapacitete. Uspješna saradnja s nekim ličnostima, te u konačnici nagrada PRO.PR i njima i meni bila je znak da sam očito na dobrom profesionalnom putu. Činjenica da sam nakon dvadeset godina iskustva otvorila svoju firmu i upustila se i u tu poduzetničku avanturu bio je još jedan pokazatelj da su me izveli na pravi put, a meni u osmoj godini poslovanja agencije svi projekti, zahvalni klijenti, zaista daju veliki osjećaj zadovoljstva i postignuća. Također, i kad mi se obraćaju mladi ljudi govoreći da ih inspirišem i da sam im u nekim stvarima uzor. To je zaista veliko ukazivanje časti.

SKROMNOST UPRKOS OSTVARENJIMA Vi ste kćerka Seada Bejtovića, poznatog bh. glumca, koji je preminuo prije šest godina. Koliko je on svojim bićem utjecao na razvoj Vaše ličnosti? - Sve njegovo i danas živi u meni. Mi smo sve priče jedno drugom ispričali, učestvovao je potpuno u mom privatnom i profesionalnom životu, 38

znao je sve moje stavove i svjetonazore. Ono što je meni posebna zadaća jeste njegova blagost u ophođenju i skromnost uprkos svim ostvarenjima, te pristup poslu koji se ogledao u tome da svakoj predstavi prilazi kao da mu je prva. Fascinantno je svaki dan iznova potvrđivati se i kreirati nešto novo. Potraga za izvrsnošću, to je ono što nas oboje određuje. Vrijeme će pokazati jesam li bila i upola uspješna kao što je bio on.

došao i Paša, Linin polubrat. Trenutno je u kući veoma dinamično, jer je on sve što ona nikad nije bila – pravi mali, razigrani mačor, koji se ničega ne boji i pokazuje veliku radoznalost. Prekrasni su, graciozni, dobroćudni, s pravom ih zovu nježni divovi. To su mačke koje znaju red, ne demoliraju kuću, ne prave haos, ne grebu i zapravo u toku dana se znam zapitati gdje su oboje, jer više od pola dana spavaju. Kako definirate ljubav? - Kada uz nekoga postajete bolja osoba. Uz kakve knjige volite utonuti u san? - Uz one u kojima mogu razvijati neki segment svoje ličnosti. Trenutno mi je fokus na razvoju biznisa, a budući da u tom smislu nemam akademskog obrazovanja dobro mi dođu knjige uspješnih prijateljica koje su mi ih preporučile. Koja odredišta najviše odgovaraju Vašim potrebama?

Šta biste izdvojili kao najveće vrijednosti koje su Vam dali majka i otac? - Široki nazori, sloboda mišljenja, prihvatanje odgovornosti za svoje stavove i odluke, nazivanje stvari pravim imenom, ljubav prema znanju i putovanjima, bavljenje suštinom u odnosima s ljudima, gledanje svog posla, hrabrost za poduzimanje mnogo toga koja dolazi od svijesti o sebi i svojim vrijednostima izgrađenim kroz odgoj i obrazovanje. Rasli ste s kućnim ljubimcima. Danas imate maine coon mačku. Kako izgleda dijeljenje životne niše s Linom? - Krajem februara u naš dom je

- Topla poput Zanzibara, živopisna poput Meksika, stylish poput Rima, duhovna poput Jerusalema, Meke i Medine, historijska poput Istanbula, te uz to malo dekadentna poput Dubrovnika i centar modernog svijeta u kojem je najljepši spoj čelika i prirode, biznisa i umjetnosti – New York. Kada se stiša pandemija, koja će zemlja biti Vaša prva turistička destinacija? - S ciljem odmora nadam se nekom tirkiznom moru i bijelom pijesku, ali Madrid i Lisabon su mi sljedeće turističke destinacije za obilazak. Iako bih voljela ponovo besposlena sjediti negdje u Rimu, piti cappuccino, gledati ljude kako prolaze i osjetiti bezbrižnost – prava la dolce vita!

UNA BEJTOVIĆ, Public Relations Advisor

Inspirational “PROVING YOURSELF AND CREATING SOMETHING NEW DAY IN AND DAY OUT IS FASCINATING.”

Woman Written by: Elma Zećo / Photographs by: Irfan Redžović

na Bejtović began her career on radio at just 16 years of age. Moving into television was the logical next move for a girl with an ability to eloquently express herself. She then went on to develop her career as a PR professional. Diligent and daring, having gained 20 years of experience in the media industry, she started her own public relations agency called Bejtovic Communications, which is known for its projects dealing with culture and human rights. She has always done the things she loved to do to the best of her ability, and that is why she is one of the most important PR professionals in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

NATURAL TALENT Interesting storied from your childhood about your mum paying you not to speak when guests came over for a visit, you participating in performances as early as in pre-school, and you taking speech lessons at a very young age are very illustrative of your natural talent for public speaking. How old were you when you realised public speaking should be your occupation?

- (Laughs) I’ve always been a real chatterbox. Like many other things in my life, it kind of happened on a whim. I started working on radio at just 16 years of age, but even then the idea of using my talent to make money didn’t really occur to me. I just wanted to do something useful in evil times, and make everything we were going through back then bearable. I think it occurred to me when I started receiving the first invitations to deliver workshops on public speaking and presentation skills, and when I had the chance to share my skill, knowledge and experience with others. After spending years working in the media and PR industries, you decided to start your own private public relations agency called Bejtovic Communications. What area do you specialise in? - We’ve done a lot of projects involving culture and human rights and projects that have a corporate social responsibility angle. We were awarded second place in the No Limit festival for our Tylol Hot campaign, which means that we’re able to get completely involved in communicating the message and planning the activities relevant to a particular client. MESS Festival has got a special place in our portfolio, but women’s rights organisations advocating and fighting for the rights of women who survived wartime sexual violence, such as TRIAL, are also important to 39

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us. In addition, together with the Environmental Protection Agency, we’ve raised public awareness of and interest in topics related to the power sector reform. The beauty of the work we do is that we’ve got to learn a lot about our clients in order to be able to present the essence and useful facts about them to the public.

What is the one thing you’d never do as part of your job? - It’s not our job to save people’s face or to promote and advocate for unethical conduct in any in any way or form.

I SACRIFICED MY PEACE OF MIND

What do you look for in people you want to work with? What do you appreciate?

Looking at the Bosnian and Herzegovinian public scene in general, how aware are we of the importance of speaking in the public effectively?

- Manners, strong writing skills, being solution-oriented and not problem-oriented, caring about getting the job done the best way possible. When you start your career under artillery and sniper fire, any kind of whining in the year 2021 is outright offensive. I appreciate not having to repeat myself. I appreciate when people go out of their way to achieve an excellent end result.

- As a society, we’re completely unaware of the importance of having solid public speaking skills. In our education systems and various professions, politics in particular, there’s no programme or activity that encourages us to express our opinion and improve our communication skills. People appearing in public need to make sure that they get their message across proper-

ly, and if they don’t know how, they should seek advice. However, public discourse in Bosnia and Herzegovina reflects the overall situation in the country, and it’s unlikely that this will change any time soon. What was the greatest sacrifice you had to make on your way to success? - I don’t remember sacrificing anything. I did the things I loved to do, the things I knew how to do to the best of my ability. I did miss out on many a weekend though, I often worked on holidays, and back in the day when I worked on radio and TV stations I sacrificed a few hours of sleep to do early morning shows and similar work. I sacrificed my peace of mind which is something most people can have after office hours. If you want to show your clients that you’re responsible, then there’s a special kind of concern that comes

with what you do and that won’t go away until the task is done right. What are your most significant achievements, achievements that you and your closest family members and friends are particularly proud of? - Back in 1996, before turning 19, I compered Dino Merlin’s concert at Skenderija Music Hall, and four years later, I compered his first concert at Koševo Stadium. Such opportunities were hard to come by and rather rare at the time. I spent some time at CNN’s International Desk in Atlanta in 2006 when breaking news of Slobodan Milošević’s death were received and broadcast. This definitely gave me and my parents a sense of pride, and I was happy to have had the opportunity to show what I knew in such an environment by putting my own professional principles and abilities to the test. Successful collaboration with some people and the PRO.PR award just go on to show, both to them and to me, that I’m clearly heading in the right direction. The fact that I started my own business and embarked on an entrepreneur adventure after 20 years of experience in the field indicate that they set me on the right path. My agency has been operating for eight years, and I can say that all the projects I’ve done and all the grateful clients that I’ve worked with give me a great sense of accomplishment and pride. Moreover, when young people get in touch with me to tell me that I inspire them and that they look up to me—I feel truly honoured.

REMAINED HUMBLE IN SPITE OF HER ACCOMPLISHMENTS Sead Bejtović, an acclaimed Bosnian and Herzegovinian actor, who passed away six years ago, was your father. How much of an impact did he as a person have on your character? - All that he was still lingers in me even today. We told each other all of our stories, he was fully immersed

both in my personal and professional life, and he knew where I stood on different issues and my outlook on life. Being gentle with people and remaining humble in spite of your accomplishments as he was, and having the same professional approach to what you do by playing each role as if it were your first the way he did, is something I strive to achieve myself. Proving yourself and creating something new day in and day out is fascinating. Pursuing excellence is what defines us both. Time will tell if I was half as successful as he was.

but who’s extremely curious about everything. Both are gorgeous, graceful, kind-hearted cats. Maine Coon cats are commonly known as “the gentle giants” and rightly so. They aren’t known for being destructive, they don’t damage the furniture or make a mess of your home, and they don’t scratch surfaces. During the day, I sometimes wonder where the two of them are because they spend half the day sleeping.

“I hope to spend my next holiday at a beach with turquoise water and white sand, but Madrid and Lisbon are going to be my next travel destinations”

What kind of books do you like to read before you go to sleep?

What are the greatest values your mother and father instilled in you?

Which destinations best suit your needs?

- Keeping an open mind, having freedom to think, taking responsibility for my opinions and decisions, calling a spade a spade, being passionate about learning and travelling, focusing on what really matters in human relationships, minding my own business, and having courage to take all kinds of actions which is something you’re able to do if you’re aware of yourself and of the values you learned to appreciate while you were growing up and getting your education.

- Warm ones, such as Zanzibar, picturesque ones, such as Mexico, stylish ones, such as Rome, spiritual ones, such as Jerusalem, Mecca and Medina, historic ones, such as Istanbul, and a bit decadent ones, such as Dubrovnik, and the centre of the modern world which perfectly incorporates steel structures with green spaces and business with art—New York.

You grew up surrounded by pets. Now you own a Maine Coon cat. What’s it like to share your living space with Lina? - In late February, Paša, Lina’s half-brother, also came to our home. It’s a very active household right now, because he’s the complete opposite of her—a very playful kitten who’s not afraid of anything,

What’s your definition of love? - Love is when a bond you have with someone makes you a better person.

- Those that help me build a character trait I want to improve on. I’m currently focused on developing my business, so I find that the books some of my successful friends have recommend are rather useful because I don’t have a business degree.

When the Coronavirus pandemic blows over, which country do you plan to visit first? - I hope to spend my next holiday at a beach with turquoise water and white sand, but Madrid and Lisbon are going to be my next travel destinations. Truth to be told, I’d like to sit back idle and do nothing somewhere in Rome, sip cappuccino without a care in the world as I watch people pass me by—that’s the real la dolce vita! 41

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

NARODNO POZORIŠTE SARAJEVO

100 godina postojanja KADA JE PRIJE STOTINU GODINA, ČUVENI BRANISLAV NUŠIĆ PRIPREMAO SVEČANI ČIN OTVARANJA SARAJEVSKOG NARODNOG POZORIŠTA, SIGURNO JE PRIŽELJKIVAO DA ĆE ONA U BUDUĆNOSTI POSTATI RENOMIRANA TEATARSKA KUĆA KAKVOM JE DANAS ZNAMO NAKON ČITAVOG VIJEKA POSTOJANJA. KUĆA IZ KOJE SE POSLIJE PREDSTAVA IZLAZILO ODUŠEVLJENO, OČARANO, KAO S NEKOM IZNENADNOM PROMJENOM U ŽIVOTU, SA SUZAMA U OČIMA ILI BOLNIH OBRAZA OD SMIJANJA.

Autorica: Semra Hodžić

NAJVEĆA POZORIŠNA KUĆA U BIH Jedna od najznačajnijih kulturnih institucija u našoj državi i u cijeloj Jugoistočnoj Evropi, te najveća pozorišna kuća u Bosni i Hercegovini osnovana je 17. novembra 1921. godine. Nušić, tadašnji načelnik Umjetničkog odjeljenja Ministarstva prosvjete, priredio je svečanost za pamćenje. Tri večeri zaredom izvođeni su muzičko-dramski programi i tako je ozvaničen početak rada kuće. Na početku bilo je 42

to isključivo dramsko pozorište, da bi tek od 1946. na daskama koje život znače zaživjela Opera, a zatim i Balet. Od tada pa do danas ova teatarska kuća je svojim umjetničkim rezultatima, radom generacija umjetnika, a posebno načinom organizacije (tri ansambla: Opera, Drama i Balet), postala veoma važan element pozorišnog i uopće duhovnog života u BiH. U toku svog stogodišnjeg djelovanja u ovom pozorištu, ali i na scenama u inostranstvu, odigran je ogroman broj dramskih, baletnih i opernih

predstava. Veliki je broj dramskih djela istaknutih autora koja su doživjela svoju premijeru na sceni najstarije pozorišne kuće u BiH, među kojima se posebno ističu djela: Zlatka Topčića, Skendera Kulenovića, Meše Selimovića, Hamze Hume, Isaka Samokovlije, Miroslava Jančića, Duška Anđića, Uroša Kovačevića, Ahmeda Muradbegovića, Envera Čolakovića, Edhema Mulabdića, Abdulaha Sidrana, Almira Imširevića, Almira Bašovića, Alije Hafizovića...

"To nikad nigdje nije bilo", predstava kojom je obilježena stogodišnjica postojanja Narodnog pozorišta Sarajevo

NACIONALNI SPOMENIK Zgrada Narodnog pozorišta u Sarajevu, odnosno tadašnjeg Društvenog doma smještenog na obali rijeke Miljacke, izgrađena je davne 1897. godine u neorenesansnom historicističkom stilu po projektima češkog arhitekte Karla Paržika. Svečano je otvorena 2. januara 1899. godine predstavom “Medeja” Franza Grillparzera (1791-1872), austrijskog dramatičara koji je spajao formalno naslijeđe austrijskog baroka i idejne elemente njemačke klasike. Glumci Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta iz Zagreba oduševili su izvedbom

predstave koja je započela prologom čuvenog pisca Silvija Strahimira Kranjčevića - “Vili prosvjete”. U tadašnjem društvenom životu, kao i danas, pozorište je predstavljalo vrhunac elegancije i kulture dostojan pariskih ili moskovskih teatarskih kuća. Pozorišna sala, poznati Bijeli salon namijenjen za prijeme i konferencije, još uvijek su remek-djela u uređenju enterijera koji neodoljivo podsjeća na

unutrašnjosti aristokratskih palača. Za vrijeme Austrougarske pozorište se zvalo”Vereinshaus” ili “Herrenclub” ili “Clubhaus” sa salom u kojoj su se održavale pozorišne predstave, tzv. “Saaltheater”. Godine 1922. dom je pretvoren u Narodno pozorište. Komisija za očuvanje nacionalnih spomenika proglasila je ovu zgradu u srcu Sarajeva nacionalnim spomenikom Bosne i Hercegovine.

OBILJEŽAVANJE JUBILEJA Predstavom “To nikad nigdje nije bilo“ pod rediteljskom palicom Dine Mustafića, koja je premijerno izvedena 27. februara , započelo je obilježavanje stogodišnjice postojanja Kuće na Obali. Fokus predstave koja je rađena po motivima romana književnika i erudite Tvrtka Kulenovića “Istorija bolesti”, kome je predstava posthumno posvećena, bio je ukazati na bolesti društva i okolnosti u kojima je predstava nastala – vrijeme pandemije koronavirusa.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

NATIONAL THEATRE IN SARAJEVO

100 Years of Existence WHEN THE ACCLAIMED AUTHOR BRANISLAV NUŠIĆ WAS PREPARING THE CEREMONIAL OPENING OF THE NATIONAL THEATRE IN SARAJEVO 100 YEARS AGO, HE MUST HAVE WANTED IT TO BECOME A RENOWNED PLAYHOUSE ONE DAY—THE WAY IT IS NOWADAYS, A FULL CENTURY INTO ITS EXISTENCE—A PLAYHOUSE AUDIENCES LEAVE EXHILARATED, ENCHANTED AND MOVED AS IF THEIR LIFE HAD SUDDENLY CHANGED, OR MOVED TO TEARS OR WITH THEIR CHEEKS HURTING FROM LAUGHING TOO MUCH. Written by: Semra Hodžić

THE LARGEST THEATRE IN B&H Founded on 17 November 1921, it is one of the most important cultural institutions in the country and Southeast Europe as a whole, and the largest theatre in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Nušić, head of the Art Department of the Ministry of Education at the time, created a celebration to be remembered for years to come. For three nights in a row, the program44

me included music and drama performances to mark the beginning of the theatre’s operation. At first, it was exclusively a drama theatre, but in 1946 it began hosting opera and ballet performances. From that moment on, thanks to its artistic achievements in theatre, many a generation of artists performing on stage, and particularly the way it was organised (consisting of three ensembles: opera, drama, and ballet), the National Theatre played a prominent role both in the

theatre and spiritual life in general in B&H. In its 100-year history, a large number of drama, ballet and opera performances have been staged in this theatre and in various other theatres abroad. Many literary works written by distinguished authors premiered in the National Theatre in Sarajevo, the oldest theatre in B&H; particularly notable among them were those written by: Zlatko Topčić, Skender Kulenović, Meša Selimović, Hamza Humo, Isak Samokovlija, Mi-

roslav Jančić, Duško Anđić, Uroš Kovačević, Ahmed Muradbegović, Enver Čolaković, Edhem Mulabdić, Abdulah Sidran, Almir Imširević, Almir Bašović, Alija Hafizović…

NATIONAL MONUMENT Housed in what was originally a Social Centre situated on the banks of the Miljacka River, the building of the National Theatre in Sarajevo was constructed way back in 1897 in the historicist neo-Renaissance style according to the design of the Czech architect Karl Pařik. It was formally opened on 2 January 1899 with a performance of Franz Grillparzer’s “Medea”. Grillparzer (17911872) was an Austrian dramatist who synthesised the legacy of Austrian baroque drama and the imaginative forms of German classicism. Actors of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb thrilled the audiences with

their performance that began with the prologue of the famed poet Silvija Strahimira Kranjčevića “To the Fairy of Education”. At the time, just like today, this theatre was the epitome of elegance and culture worthy of the Parisian and Muscovite playhouses. The main auditorium as well as the White Salon, which is used as a reception and conference area, are interior design masterpieces even today—their furnishings are reminiscent of an aristocratic residence. During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the National Theatre in Sarajevo was referred to as “Vereinshaus”, “Herrenclub” or “Clubhaus”, and it featured an auditorium, the so called “Saaltheater”, where plays were staged. In 1922, the Social Centre was redesigned to become the National Theatre. The Commission to Preserve National Monuments designated this building

nestled in the heart of Sarajevo as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

CENTENARY The play titled “It has Never Happened Anywhere” directed by Dino Mustafić, which premiered on 27 February this year, opened the celebration of the centenary of the “Playhouse on the River Bank”. The story, which aims to highlight a number of diseases affecting the society and circumstances surrounding the production of the play—the outbreak of the Coronavirus pandemic, was modelled on Tvrtko Kulenović’s novel “History of Disease”. Kulenović was an erudite scholar and author, and the production was posthumously dedicated to him.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Arhitekta JURAJ NEIDHARDT

koji je sanjao idealno Sarajevo

DA JE STIGAO IZGRADITI SARAJEVO O KOJEM JE SANJAO, KAO „IDEALNI UTOPISTIČKI GRAD“, DANAS BI MU SARAJLIJE SASVIM SIGURNO BILE ZAHVALNE DO NEBA. NO, I OVAKO IMAJU RAZLOGA DA PAMTE JEDNOG OD NAJPLODOTVORNIJIH ARHITEKATA U HISTORIJI BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE KOJI JE IMAO VELIKI UTJECAJ NA RAZVOJ SARAJEVA KROZ ARHITEKTURU KONCIPIRANU U SKLADU SA POTREBAMA ČOVJEKA.

DOLAZAK U SARAJEVO Rođeni Zagrepčanin, arhitekta koji je nakon završetka bečke Majstorske škole za arhitekturu kod Petera Behrensa, svoj talenat brusio sa čuvenim La Corbusierom po Evropi, Africi, da bi na poziv slovenačkog arhitekte Dušana Grabrijana 1937. godine došao u Bosnu i Hercegovinu. Svoj pečat ostavio je, osim Sarajeva, i u rudarskim gradovima i mjestima naše zemlje poput Zenice, Vareša, Breze, Kaknja, Ilijaša itd, gdje je iz46

gradnjom radničkih kuća sa dva stana postavio koncept nove stambene arhitekture pod sloganom “ništa mimo svijeta i po mjeri čovjeka”.

NOVO POKRAJ STAROG “Transformirajmo staru čaršiju u kulturno žarište grada, sačuvajmo staro i dajmo mu savremenu namjenu, a novo izgradimo pokraj starog u duhu historijske aglomeracije: Novo pokraj starog.” Juraj je bio oduševljen Sarajevom

i njegovim potencijalom. Osmanskom arhitekturom u starom dijelu grada bio je očaran, stoga ih je nastojao uklopiti sa novim i modernim. Tokom izvedbe Regulacionog plana sanacije, restauracije i revitalizacije Baščaršije (1972–1975) insistirao je da sve mahale od čaršije do Marijin Dvora zadrže izvorni oblik. Na Marijin Dvoru, projektirao je naselje i kontrastnu cjelinu koju čine vertikalni neboder institucija BiH sa trgom i horizontalna zgrada skupštine „sa strukom Marilyn Monroe“.

Stara zgrada u Zenici

Juraj Neidhardt je bio arhitekt, teoretičar i pedagog, sintetičar tradicionalnih elemenata i savremenih dostignuća građevinarstva i arhitekture Bosne i Hercegovine. Dopisni član Kraljevske akademije britanskih arhitekata, član Hrvatske i Akademije nauka i umjetnosti BiH. Po dolasku u BiH radio je u preduzeću “Jugočelik”, u čiji sastav su ušli i rudnici željezne rude i Željezara u Varešu. Tada je započeo projektiranje i izgradnju radničkih naselja u rudarskom bazenu srednje Bosne (Zenica, Vareš, Ilijaš, Breza, Kakanj). Preminuo je 1979. godine u Sarajevu u 77. godini života, a sahranjen je na groblju Bare. Planine oko Sarajeva smatrao je blagodati, stoga se zalagao da se grad gradi tako što će svako imati pogled na njih. Njegovi principi bili su pravo na vidik i kult komšiluka.

njegovoj ideji „idealnog utopističkog grada”, sa zelenim površinama između nizova zgrada danas svjedoče naselja poput Dolac Malte, Hrasnog i Marijin Dvora.

JURAJEVA ZAOSTAVŠTINA

NEOSTVARENE ZAMISLI

Iako njegova vizija nije u potpunosti ostvarena zbog izmijenjenih potreba grada, Juraj je za svog boravka u Sarajevu u njemu ostavio značajno arhitektonsko naslijeđe: spomenik ispred Vječne vatre, Muzej Gavrila Principa, Dom izviđača, Filozofski fakultet, Prirodno-matematički fakultet i Institut za hemiju i fiziku, Paviljon i ljetnu pozornica na Ilidži, stambene zgrade u Alipašinoj 1117, skijašku kuću na Trebeviću... O

Ono o čemu je Juraj sanjao bilo je daleko ispred njegovog vremena. No, da je uspio realizirati svoje zamisli, danas bismo iznad Miljacke imali viseći motel, a na Trebeviću turističko naselje Vranjača. Zamislio je i da se Morića Han adaptira u turistički hotel, Kuršumlija medresa u Gazi Husrev-begovu biblioteku itd. Predlagao je da se pored Vijećnice izgradi “muzej o postanku čovjeka”. “S druge strane Miljacke” zamislio

Viseći hoteli na Miljacki je prostor za savremene zgrade, institute, kulturne ustanove i slično, a obale rijeke smatrao je da trebaju ostati slobodne za šetališta gdje će biti zasađeni jablani. Prostor oko Bentbaše i Bijele tabije zamišljao je kao idealna mjesta za rekreaciju tijela i duha uz kulturno žarište grada, te je smatrao mogućim da se na Miljacki otvori kupalište i da se dio rijeke učini plovnim za čamce. Padinske dijelove grada smatrao je najljepšim dijelom, te je uvijek naglašavao kako im se mora omogućiti “pravo na vidik”. Zelenilo je pokušavao uvući u centar grada planiravši da ozeleni ulicu Alipašina, da na Crnom vrhu izgradi stambeno naselje sa mnogo zelenila, a da korzo s Titove ulice prebaci u obližnji Veliki park. Niti Zagreb, ni Beograd, ni Ljubljana se ne mogu pohvaliti da u srcu grada imaju slobodne prostore ovakvih kvaliteta. 47

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

JURAJ NEIDHARDT

Architect

Who Dreamed of an Ideal Sarajevo

IF HE HAD THE TIME TO BUILD THE SARAJEVO HE DREAMED ABOUT, THE “IDEAL UTOPIAN CITY“, THE PEOPLE OF SARAJEVO WOULD MOST CERTAINLY BE ETERNALLY GRATEFUL TO HIM TODAY. HOWEVER, THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONS FOR THEM TO REMEMBER ONE OF THE MOST PRODUCTIVE ARCHITECTS IN BOSNIAN AND HERZEGOVINIAN HISTORY WHOSE ARCHITECTURAL CONCEPTS DESIGNED TO CATER TO HUMAN NEEDS HAD AN ENORMOUS INFLUENCE ON SARAJEVO’S DEVELOPMENT. COMING TO SARAJEVO

glomeration: the new next to the old.”

JURAJ’S LEGACY

Zagreb-born, upon completion of his architectural studies at the Vienna Academy under Peter Behrens, Juraj Neidhardt went on to polish up his talent by working with La Corbusier, a renowned architect, in Europe and Africa. He settled in Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1937 at the invitation of Slovenian architect Dušan Gabrijan. He left his mark on Sarajevo and on various mining towns and areas across the country such as Zenica, Vareš, Breza, Kakanj, Ilijaš, etc., and that is where he set a concept for new residential architecture under the slogan, “nothing extraordinary and something to suit a man”.

He was delighted by Sarajevo and the potential it held. He was fascinated by the Ottoman architecture in Sarajevo’s old town so he endeavoured to blend it in with a new and modern vision he had of the city. When the Regulation Plan for the Preservation, Restoration and Revitalisation of Baščaršija was being carried out (1972–1975), he insisted that all residential quarters from Baščaršija to Marijin Dvor preserve their original look. In Marijin Dvor he designed a residential quarter and a unique architectural ensemble consisting of two contrasting structures: the vertical skyscraper of the Institutions of Bosnia and Herzegov ina along with the square and the horizontal Parliamentary building “with a waist” (Marilyn Monroe). He believed that mountains around Sarajevo were a blessing, and he advocated city development plans to allow everyone to have a view of the mountains. His principles were the right to a view and the cult of the neighbourhood.

Even though his vision did not fully materialise due to new needs and elements of the city structure, the architectural legacy Juraj left behind in Sarajevo is substantial: the Eternal Flame memorial, the Gavrilo Princip Museum, the Scouts’ House, the Faculty of Philosophy, the Faculty of Natural Sciences and Mathematics, the Chemistry and Physics Institute, the Ilidža Pavilion and Summer Stage, residential buildings at 11-17 Alipašina Street, a ski lodge in Mount Trebević… His idea of an “ideal utopian city” with green areas within residential blocks is embodied today in neighbourhoods such as Dolac Malta, Hrasno and Marijin Dvor.

THE NEW NEXT TO THE OLD “Let us transform Baščaršija—the old town—into a cultural hotspot, let us preserve the old fabric and give it a contemporary purpose, and let us erect new buildings next to the old ones to reflect the spirit of historic ag48

IDEAS JURAJ DID NOT GET TO FINISH Juraj’s dreams were way ahead of their time. However, if he had the time to make his ideas come true, we would now have a motel suspended above the Miljacka River and

Muzej Sarajeva

Zgrada Parlamenta BiH

Ideje i zamisli Juraja Neihardtha

Filozofski fakultet u Sarajevu

Juraj Neidhardt was an architect, a theoretician, and a teacher who synthesised the traditional elements of and contemporary developments in Bosnian and Herzegovinian construction and architecture. He was a correspondent member of the Royal Institute of British Architects, and a member of the Croatian and Bosnian and Herzegovinian Academy of Arts and Sciences. When he first arrived to B&H, he worked at a company called “Jugočelik” which included iron ore mining companies and Željezara, iron and steel factory, in Vareš. That is when he started creating blueprints and constructing workers’ housing in Central Bosnia’s mining basin (Zenica, Vareš, Ilijaš, Breza, Kakanj). He died in 1979 in Sarajevo at the age of 77. He was buried at Bare Graveyard.

Vranjača tourist settlement in Mount Trebević. He also envisaged Morića Han (caravanserai) to be converted into a tourist hotel, Kuršumlija Madrasa (religious school) into Ghazi-Husrev Bey’s Library, etc. He proposed building a “human origins museum”. He believed that contemporary-style buildings, institutes and cultural institutions should be built on “the other bank of the Miljacka River”, but that the river’s banks should be public prome-

nades lined with poplar trees. He believed that being right next to the city’s cultural hotspot, the area around Bentbaša and the White Fortress was ideal for recreational activities to keep the body in shape and spirits up. He also believed that it would be possible to have a swimming area on the Miljacka River and to go on boat tours on some sections of the river. He thought that the most beautiful part of Sarajevo were its hillsides, and he would always point

out that people had to “have a right to a view”. He tried to introduce green areas in urban planning for the city centre by adding greenery to Alipašina Street and by building a residential quarter with a large green area in Crni Vrh; he also wanted to move the pedestrian zone from Titova Street to the neighbouring Great Park. Zagreb, Belgrade and Ljubljana cannot boast of having such high-quality open spaces in the city centre. 49

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

AVANTURE

Najbolja

penjališta i via ferrate u Bosni i Hercegovini

U RJEČNIKU SVAKOG AMBICIOZNOG PLANINARA I LJUBITELJA AVANTURA, U POSLJEDNJIH NEKOLIKO GODINA POJMOVI PENJANJE I VIA FERRATA POSTALI SU NAROČITO POPULARNI. ŽELJNI NAVALE ADRENALINA I ISKONSKIH DOŽIVLJAJA PRIRODE, MNOGI SE RADO KREĆU MAPAMA NA KOJIMA SU SE UCRTALE NEKA OD NAJATRAKTIVNIJIH PENJALIŠTA I VIA FERRATA U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI. Autorica: Semra Hodžić

Foto: Amina Kučuk

BLAGAJ

penjalište za cijelu godinu! Pod vrelim hercegovačkim suncem, na stijenama iznad Blagaja i u neposrednoj blizini vrela Bune i tvrđave Herceg Stjepana Kosače, nalazi se atraktivno penjalište i via ferrata koja se pruža duž kanjona Vulinog Potoka. Hercegovačka regija pruža idealne uslove za penjanje tokom cijele godine zbog ugodne klime, što je rijetkost i blagodat u penjačkom svijetu. Penjalište u Blagaju na krečnjačkim stijenama zauzima poprilično velik geografski prostor dužine od nekih 2,5 kilometra, na kojima se nalaze smjerovi najmanjih težina do smjerova za top penjače. Potencijal koji posjeduje penjalište u Blagaju su, pored lokalnih penjača, prepoznale i svjetski poznate face kao Quentin Chastagnier, Silvo Karo, Said Belhaj, Nicolas Favresse.

SOKOLOV PUT

jedinstvena atrakcija na Romaniji Sokolov Put na Romaniji nova je via ferrata u penjačkom svijetu koju mogu koristiti i oni koji nemaju nikakvog alpinističkog iskustva. Planinarska je to staza po stijenama, duga 350 metara, uređena čeličnim pomagalima, i sa dva viseća mosta što je čini jedinstvenom atrakcijom u Bosni i Hercegovini. Ljubiteljima avanturizma i ekstremnih sportova zasigurno će pružiti veliko uzbuđenje uz maksimalnu sigurnost.

VRT CIKLAMA

veličanstven pogled na Neretvu i Drežanjku Penjački centar “Vrt ciklama” u Drežnici pored Mostara jedan je od omiljenih svim ljubiteljima penjanja zbog više od 80 moderno uređenih smjerova, perfektno opremljenih i osiguranih. Dužine smjerova su od 5 do 40 metara i težine od II-III do VIII i više. Baš u Drežnici organiziraju se neke od najvažnijih penjačkih aktivnosti i dešavanja u Bosni i Hercegovini. Sam penjački kamp je smješten nedaleko od glavne magistralne saobraćajnice, a sa njega se pruža veličanstven pogled na rijeke Neretvu i Drežanjku. Mjesto je idealno za kampovanje, a tokom ljeta u Drežnici se možete i kupati. 51

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

HOTANJSKI KRŠ penjačka „mekka“ Tuzlanskog kantona

Via Ferrata u zaštićenom dijelu planine Konjuh prva je penjačka staza u Tuzlanskom kantonu. Izgrađena je na području općine Kladanj, u dijelu Hotanjski krš, koji se nalazi nadomak sela Brateljevići na putu prema poznatom dragulju “Muška voda”. Riječ je o velikom amfitetru stijena sa velikim mogućnostima za sve vrste penjanja: od klasičnih alpinističkih, preko teških tehničkih, pa do vrhunskih dužinaca i kratkih smjerova svih težina.

Sportsko penjanje je adrenalinski sport koji se razvio iz alpinizma i jača snagu duha i tijela, fokusiranost i povezanost sa samim sobom.

VERTIKALE VELEŽA

s bogatom alpinističkom historijom Stjenovita planina Velež istočno od Mostara ima idealne uslove za ljubitelje alpinizma, zbog čega je i promovirana kao svjetska alpinistička destinacija kroz projekt “Srce Veleža”. Nije to nikakva slučajnost, jer je sjeverna stijena Veleža sa 13 kilometara dugačkom barijerom, jedna od najprepoznatljivijih i najvećih u čitavom regionu jugoistočne Evrope i s bogatom alpinističkom historijom gdje su zlatnim slovima upisana velika penjačka imena. U namjeri da vrate alpinistički duh Veležu, napravljeno je nekoliko smjerova ferrate pripremljenih za sportsko penjanje, te je i markirana planinarska staza od podnožja planine do na sam vrh Botina. Jedna od ferrata posvećena je Arminu Gaziću, tragično stradalom alpinisti koji je i napravio. Visina ferrate je 200 metara, duga je 350, a namijenjena je za penjače B i C kategorije. Tu su još i ferrata „Srce Veleža“ koja je izuzetno teška, te ferrata na južnim padinama Veleža, u sklopu mostarskog parka Fortica, u kojem se nalazi i popularni zipline i staklena šetnica s panoramom Mostara. 52

FERRATA

u Nacionalnom parku Kozara U bogatoj ponudi nacionalnog parka Kozara posebno se ističe pješačka staza Rajkovići-Planinarski dom Kotlovača-Bijeli kamen-Zečiji kamen dužine 4,2 km koja prolazi kroz neke od najljepših dijelova parka sa živopisnim vidikovcima i simpatičnim vodopadom. Ono što ovu stazu čini posebnom jeste tzv. via ferrata na stijeni Bijelog kamena duga 26 metara. Prva je to staza u regiji na kojoj će vam srce snažno lupati od uzbuđenja tokom avanture, uz pogled na nestvarne ljepote krajolika. Uz pješačku stazu zasađeno je 1.500 sadnica tise – rijetke i ugrožene biljne vrste koja se nalazi i na Crvenoj listi zaštićene flore i faune RS.

OSOBAC NA PRENJU

jedna od najvećih ferrata regije Ako pitate planinare, reći će vam da je ferrata s najljepšim pogledom ona koja se nalazi na sjeveroistočnom bridu harizmatičnog prenjskog vrha Osobac. Ferata Osobac na planini koju zovu i „bosanski Himalaji“ je dugačka 1.200 metara sa visinskom razlikom oko 700 metara što je čini jednom od najvećih ferrata regije. Smatra se zahtjevnom za penjanje, tehnički srednje i povremeno vrlo teška, sa svim elementima visoko gorskog planinarenja, a penjanje njom predstavlja istinski užitak. Prije nego li se uputite na nju, kontaktirajte Planinarski savez BiH koji će vam reći informacije o njenom trenutnom stanju!

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ADVENTURES

Most Attractive climbing areas and via ferratas in Bosnia and Herzegovina

IN RECENT TIMES, CLIMBING AND VIA FERRATA HAVE BECOME QUITE POPULAR TERMS IN AMBITIOUS HIKERS’ AND ADVENTURE ENTHUSIASTS’ VOCABULARY. MANY OF THOSE WHO SEEK HIGH-SENSATION ACTIVITIES AND EXPERIENCES IN PRISTINE NATURE MAKE USE OF MAPS WITH SOME OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE CLIMBING AREAS AND VIA FERRATAS IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA. Written by: Semra Hodžić

BLAGAJ

Year-round Climbing Area! Under the sizzling heat of the Herzegovinian sun, up in the rocks above Blagaj and in the immediate vicinity of the spring of the Buna River and the Fortress of Herzog Stjepan, there is an attractive climbing area and a via ferrata stretching along the Vulin Creek canyon. Thanks to its pleasant climate, which is a rarity and a blessing in the climbing world, Herzegovina offers the best rock climbing conditions all year round. The Blagaj climbing area is composed of limestone, stretches over a rather large area of about 2.5 kilometres, and offers ascents and descents of varying difficulty for climbers of moderate to advanced skill levels. In addition to the local climbers, big names in the climbing world, such as Quentin Chastagnier, Silvo Karo, Said Belhaj, Nicolas Favresse, have already recognised the potential of this area.

Rock climbing is an adrenaline sport which gradually developed and evolved from alpinism. It boosts your mental and physical strength, improves your focus, and helps you connect with your inner self.

VRT CIKLAMA

Magnificent View of Neretva and Drežanjka Rivers Rock climbers say that “Vrt ciklama” (Cyclamen Garden) in Drežnica near Mostar is one of their favourite rock climbing centres because it features more than 80 routes perfectly equipped with steel cables, ladders and other equipment designed to ensure climbers’ security. The routes vary in length from 5 to 40 metres, and in difficulty level—on a scale from II-III to VIII and even higher. Drežnica hosts some of the most important rock climbing activities and events in Bosnia and Herzegovina. A rock climbing camp is situated in close proximity to the main road and offers beautiful views of Neretva and Drežanjka rivers. It is the perfect site for camping, and in summer, you can swim in the Drežanjka River.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SOKOLOV PUT

Unique Attraction on Mount Romanija Sokolov put (Falcon’s Route) in Mount Romanija is a new, unique via ferrata in the climbing community which is also suitable for those who do not have any alpine climbing experience. It is a 350-meter long stretch of rocky terrain with steel safety cables and two suspension bridges, which makes it rather unique in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Adventure and extreme sports enthusiasts will certainly enjoy the feeling of an adrenaline rush climbing this ferrata, but they will also feel completely safe.

HOTANJSKI KRŠ

Climbing “Mecca” in the Tuzla Canton A via ferrata in a protected area of Mount Konjuh is the first climbing route in the Tuzla Canton. It was created in Hotanjski krš (Hotanjski Karst), which belongs to the municipality of Kladanj, in the immediate vicinity of the village of Brateljevići situated on the way to “Muška voda” (Men’s Water), a popular location in Kladanj. This large rock amphitheatre offers a wide range of climbing options ranging from classic alpine climbing to challenging and technically difficult routes and fantastic long and short ascents and descents of varying difficulty.

OSOBAC PEAK IN MOUNT PRENJ One of the Longest Via Ferratas in the Region

If you ask hikers, they will tell you that the ferrata on the north-eastern edge of the charismatic peak of Mount Prenj called Osobac is the one that offers the most spectacular panoramic views. The Osobac ferrata in Mount Prenj, which is referred to by some as the “Bosnian Himalayas”, has a total length of 1,200 metres and reaches a vertical height of about 700 metres. This makes it one of the longest via ferratas in the region. A challenging ferrata of medium technical difficulty with a few very difficult sections, the Osobac ferrata includes all the elements of high altitude climbs and is the source of extreme delight. Before tackling it, you are advised to get in touch with the Bosnian and Herzegovinian Mountaineering Association to receive the latest information about the ferrata! 56

STEEP VERTICAL ACCENTS AND DESCENTS OF MOUNT VELEŽ which has Prominent Presence in Alpine Climbing History

Velež, a rocky mountain located east of Mostar, has the perfect conditions for alpine climbing aficionados. That is why the “Heart of Velež” project promoted it as a premier hiking destination with world class trails. This did not happen by chance, because the north side of Mount Velež is made of limestone rock extending over 13 kilometres. It is one of the most distinctive and largest rocks in South East Europe and plays an important role in rock climbing— names of prominent rock climbers are written in golden letters in climbing history books. With the intention to bring the spirit of alpinism back to Mount Velež, several via ferrata routes were created to allow rock climbing, and a hiking trail was marked from the foot of the mountain all the way to Botin, the highest peak of the mountain. One of these routes was dedicated to Armin Gazić, the alpine climber who created the route, but who tragically lost his life. It is graded B and C in difficulty, reaches a vertical height of 200 metres, and has a total length of 350 metres. Then there is the “Heart of Velež” ferrata, which is extremely difficult, and a ferrata on the southern foothills of Velež, which is part of the Fortica Park in Mostar. The park also features a popular zip line, and a skywalk—a floating glass promenade—offering panoramic views of Mostar.

FERRATA

in Kozara National Park The hiking trail en route Rajkovići-Kotlovača Mountain Lodge-Bijeli kamen-Zečiji kamen, which has a total length of 4.2 kilometres and passes through some of the most gorgeous sections of the park featuring picturesque vantage points and a charming waterfall, is the highlight in a wide range of activities visitors can choose from at the Kozara National Park. What makes this trail particularly appealing is the so called via ferrata on the Bijeli kamen (White Stone) rock. The 26-metre long ferrata is the first adventurous route in the region to make your heart beat faster with excitement as you look at the surreal landscape around you. The trail is lined up with 1,500 yew tree seedlings—a rare and threatened plant species which is on the Red List of Protected Flora and Fauna of RS. 57

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Nježno lice

DEJČIĆI I LEDIĆI

Bjelašnice

POSLJEDNJIH GODINA MNOGI SU SE POČELI UPOZNAVATI SA SLIKOVITIM ZABJELAŠNIČKIM SELIMA, NO NA OVOJ PLANINI I DALJE IMA NEOTKRIVENIH BISERA KOJI ZASLUŽUJU MNOGO VEĆU PAŽNJU, POPUT SELA DEJČIĆI I LEDIĆI. PAŠNJACI I NEPREGLEDNA ZELENA PROSTRANSTVA NA KOJIMA MALO-MALO PA POČIVAJU KAMENI SPAVAČI, IZVORI VODE, ČISTI POTOCI I VODOPAD, NATJERAT ĆE VAS DA SE NAMAH ZALJUBITE U NJIH.. Autorica: Semra Hodžić

SELO DEJČIĆI Kada bilo kojeg vikenda poželite upoznati drugačije lice Bjelašnice koju zovu Čeličnom Lady među planinama, na putu prema Igmanu i Bjelašnici kod jasno označene table skrenite lijevo i vozite se prelijepim krajolikom do sela Dejčići, jednog od omiljenih izletišta Sarajlija. Kada ga ugledate, vidjet ćete da je to pravo selo koje ima i školu, ambulantu, Dom kulture i sve drugo što je potrebno da se u njemu 58

živi. Ugledat ćete zelene poljane koje ga okružuju i na kojima od proljeća do jeseni možete naći pregršt ljekovitog bilja. U potrazi za mirisnim travama, naići ćete u Prečanskom polju, koje mu prethodi, na srednjovjekovnu nekropolu stećaka na koju rado dolaze ljubitelji noćnog neba u potrazi za dobrom fotografijom. Poseban je spektakl odatle posmatrati kišu meteora, tzv. perzeida. U Dejčićima se nalazi i poznato izletište „Ribnjak“, za kojeg mnogi kažu da je raj na zemlji.

S glavne ceste do njega vodi dobar makadamski put, gdje vas dočekuje prostrano izletište sa šadrvanima, mjestima za sjedenje i roštilj. Izletište će oduševiti kako starije, tako i mlađe... Tišina, žubor potoka i zelenilo svuda oko vas, a za mališane tu su nepregledne livade za igru i trčanje, plitki potoci i domaće životinje sa kojima se mogu upoznati. Putem do Ribnjaka naići ćete na nekoliko restorana u kojima možete predahnuti.

Senabot vrelo

IZVOR RIJEKE BIJELE Iznad izletišta Ribnjak možete prošetati netaknutom prirodom, stazom kroz gustu šumu, po mehkoj zemlji gdje će vam se učiniti da hodate kao po oblacima, uz žubor mnogobrojnih izvora vode i cvrkut ptica. Vi se penjete, a vama u susret dolazi rijeka, jer tu pod obroncima Treskavice, prema Dujmovićima, izvire rijeka Bijela koja je ime dobila po bjelini kamena na njenom dnu, od kojeg su klesani i lokalni stećci. Njen kanjon je živopisan, sa mnoštvo vodopada i virova od kojih je najpoznatiji Zeleni vir kod Ostojića. Nevjerovatno zvuči, ali predjelima kojima budete šetali nekada je prolazio stari karavanski put još u srednjem vijeku, a vodenice su radile punom parom...

Na Ledićkom potoku u podnožju Hojte je 1950. godine izgrađena jedna od prvih minihidroelektrana u BiH, koja je bila u funkciji do kraja šezdesetih godina 20. vijeka i zahvaljujući kojoj je selo dobilo struju. Potok se ulijeva u rijeku Bijelu, lijevu pritoku Željeznice.

ŽIVOPISNI LEDIĆI Ukoliko se zaputite put Ledića,iznenadit ćete se šta sve imate vidjeti u ovom živopisnom selu u kojem se nekada bavilo kiridžijskim zanatom. Prije mostića u Dejčićima skrenite desno, i vozite uskom cestom ili prošetajte. Kada čujete žubor potoka, spustite se putićem prema zvuku koji do vas dopire, a prizor koji će vas dočekati, bez pretjerivanja, ostavit će vas bez teksta. Pređete dva drvena mostića preko Ledićkog potoka i stižete do čudesnog vrela Senabot kojeg zovu i „malim Vrelom

Rijeka Bijela 59

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Stećci u Dejčićima

Bosne“, izolovanog u tišini prirode, i kao da nije sa ovoga svijeta... Vratite se na put, pa skrenite desno i prošetajte do Husrevbegovih vrela, jednako interesantnih kao i ono koje ste ranije vidjeli. Poslije ugodne šetnje, preporučujemo posjetu kući Planinski biser zbog čijeg domaćinstva su već mnogi čuli za Lediće. Od ovih vrela udaljena je manje od kilometra,

LEDIĆKI NACIONALNI SPOMENICI

a putem do nje naići ćete i na hidrološki spomenik ovog sela - vodopad Zbišće okružen prelijepim darovima prirode i starinskim vodenicama. U Planinskom biseru moći ćete uživati u pogledu na nevjerovatne vrhove Treskavice i Bjelašnice i sve ljepote ovog simpatičnog sela. Domaćini će vas ovdje oduševiti specijalitetima tradicionalne bosanske kuhinje,

Malo je poznato da se u ovom kraju nalaze i zakonom zaštićena kulturna blaga Bosne i Hercegovine. Najprije, tu su dvije velike nekropole stećaka na lokalitetima Kapova selišta (Borija) i Zlatarić iz perioda kasnog srednjeg vijeka, koje su 2011. godine proglašene nacionalnim spomenicima i zaštićene UNESCO-m. Interesantno je da se u selu nalazi i etno kuća i spomenik Narodnooslobodilačkog rata, odnosno kuća Maksima Miovčića koja je također zaštićena kao nacionalni spomenik. U njoj je nekada živio prvi inžinjer ovog kraja, a bila je i osnovna škola. Danas se čuva i kao znak sjećanja na vrijeme življenja u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, te kao uspomena da je nekada u njoj boravio bivši predsjednik SFRJ Josip Broz Tito koji je ovdje održao jednu od najvažnijih sjednica Centralnog komiteta (CK) Saveza komunista Jugoslavije (SKJ) na kojoj su, prema tvrdnjama historičara, ojačane i potvrđene temeljne vrijednosti Bosne i Hercegovine. U selu je i do dan-danas sačuvan grob austrougarskog oficira. toplom atmosferom i okruženjem prilagođenim za sve uzraste – od igralište za male do mjesta za relaksaciju za velike.

Adresa/Address: Trnovo 36, 71223 Delijaš Telefon/Telephone: 033/586-700

opcina.trnovo@bih.net.ba

Vodopad u Ledićima 60

DEJČIĆI AND LEDIĆI

Gentle Face

of Mount Bjelašnica

IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, MANY PEOPLE BEGAN TO EXPLORE PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN MOUNT BJELAŠNICA. STILL, THERE ARE A FEW HIDDEN PEARLS IN THIS MOUNTAIN THAT DESERVE MUCH MORE ATTENTION THAN THEY CURRENTLY GET. THESE ARE THE VILLAGES OF DEJČIĆI AND LEDIĆI. PASTURES AND ENDLESS GREEN EXPANSES DOTTED WITH STONE SLEEPERS HERE AND THERE, WATER SPRINGS, CLEAN CREEKS AND A WATERFALL ARE SURE TO MAKE YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH THEM IN AN INSTANT. Author: Semra Hodžić

VILLAGE OF DEJČIĆI On any given weekend, when you decide that you want to see a somewhat different face of Mount Bjelašnica, which is referred to as the Steel Lady by some, on your way to Igman and Bjelašnica mountains turn left at the clearly marked road sign for the village of Dejčići and ride through the beautiful landscape leading up to the village—one of Sarajevans’ favourite outing spot. Once you are there, you will see that it is a real village with a school, an outpatient clinic, a cultural centre, and everything else

that makes a small village run. You will see green meadows everywhere around you, and from spring to autumn, they are rich in herbs. If you go searching for fragrant herbs in Prečansko Field, which you pass by on your way to Dejčići, you will come across a medieval necropolis many night sky lovers happily frequent in the hopes of snapping a great photo. A particularly spectacular night sky display that can be seen here is the Perseid meteor shower. In addition, “Ribnjak”, a well-known picnic spot, or heaven on earth, as many people say, is also located in Dejčići. A well-

kept macadam road branches off from the main road and leads up to a spacious picnic spot with a water fountain, seating areas and grills. Both older and younger generations love it. Ribnjak provides a quiet, peaceful retreat, with the sounds of the nearby bubbling creek and a stunning variety of greens everywhere you turn. It also provides vast meadows for the little ones to play in and run across. Shallow creeks run through the property, and there are some domesticated animals too. On the way to Ribnjak, there are a few restaurants to stop for a break. 61

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

At the site of Ledićki Creek, which is located at the foot of Mount Hojta, the first small hydropower plant in B&H was built in 1950 and operated until the late 1960s. Thanks to the plant, the town got electricity. The creek flows into the White River, the left tributary of the Željeznica River.

SPRING OF THE WHITE RIVER Going hiking through thick forests and on soft footpaths in intact nature just beyond Ribnjak makes you feel like you are walking on clouds to the sounds of bubbling spring water and birds chirping. As you climb, a river is coming to meet you— the White River originates right there on the foothills of Mount Treskavica, in the direction of Dujmovići. It was named after the white rocks on its bottom, and these rocks were carved into headstones—the local medieval tombstones. The White River’s canyon is rather vivid with many waterfalls and whirlpools. The best-known is the Green Whirlpool in Ostojići. This may sound improbable, but some of the local hiking paths are on an old caravan route that used to pass through this area, and old water mills used be fully operational.

PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF LEDIĆI If you head out to Ledići, you will be taken by surprise when you realise just how much there is to see in this picturesque village where people used to be kiridžija hauliers by occupation (hired men transporting goods by horse and cart). Before the bridge in Dejčići, turn right and take the narrow road or take a walk. When you hear the bubbling creek, go down the path towards it. Truly, without exaggeration, the sight will take your breath away. Go across the two wooden bridges spanning the Ledićki Creek to get to the Senabot Spring, some also like to call the “little spring of the River Bosnia”. It is beyond magical… isolated, quiet and beautiful, out of this world. Get back on the road, turn right and walk to the Husrevbegovi Springs—it is just as interesting as the Senabot Spring you saw earlier. After the pleasant walk in, visit the Mountain Pearl, a lodge in Ledići known for its hospitality. It is less than a kilometre away from the springs, and on the way to

Bijela river

NATIONAL MONUMENTS IN LEDIĆI Not many people know that there are many cultural heritage sites in this part of Bosnia and Herzegovina that are protected by law. First, there are two ancient tombstone necropolises in Kapova selišta (Borije) and Zlatarić dating back to the Late Middle Ages. In 2011, they were designated as national monuments and protected by UNESCO. Second, the village is also home to an ethno house and a monument dedicated to the People’s Liberation War, i.e. Maksim Miovčić’s house, which is also a protected national monument. The first engineer from this area used to live in it, and it also used to house the local primary school. Nowadays, it is kept to provide insight into life in former Yugoslavia and to act as a reminder that Josip Broz Tito, former president of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, had visited it and attended one of the most important sessions of the Central Committee of the League of Communists of Yugoslavia at which, according to historians, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s core values were strengthened and reinforced. The village still holds the grave of an Austro-Hungarian military officer. the lodge you will see a hydrological nature monument—Zbišće Waterfall—surrounded by green nature and old water mills. The Mountain Pearl treats visitors to the most wonderful views of Treskavica and Bjelašnica Mountain peaks and the beautiful scenery of this charming little village.

You are sure to be delighted by the hosts’ hospitality and thrilled by the delicious traditional homemade cuisine they serve in a warm and friendly atmosphere. The Mountain Pearl is suitable for any age—it includes an area for children to play and a place for adults to unwind and relax. 63

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

GAUCHO RANCH NA TREBIŽATU

Indijanska oaza

u srcu Hercegovine

GAUČO, RIJEČ ŠPANSKOG PORIJEKLA, OZNAČAVALA JE VJEŠTOG JAHAČA U ZEMLJAMA KAO ŠTO SU ARGENTINA, URUGVAJ I BRAZIL. SLAVLJENI OD JUŽNOAMERIČKIH PISACA, OVI LEGENDARNI ODMETNICI POSTALI SU NEIZOSTAVAN DIO REGIONALNE KULTURNE BAŠTINE TOG DIJELA SVIJETA. Tekst i fotografije: Sead Šašivarević

AMBIJENT DOSTOJAN PREDJELA LATINSKE AMERIKE „Saro“, povikuje Juva, dozivajući razigrano ždrijebe. „Rado dotrči posjetiocima“, nastavlja on dok nas sa osmijehom na licu uvodi u Gaučo ranč. U ambijentu dostojnom prelijepih predjela Latinske Amerike, ranč je smješten uz najveću pritoku Neretve, čarobni Trebižat, na pet minuta vožnje od centra Čapljine. „Uz magarca Ponča, nikad joj nije 64

dosadno i uvijek nađu neku zanimaciju“, dodaje Tiho Sušac, zvani Juva, tapšući radoznalu Saru. „Sa šest godina posadio sam borove znajući da ću jednoga dana od njih napraviti kolibu. To se, na nevjericu mojih prijatelja, i desilo 50 godina kasnije, kada sam ispunio svoj san i svojim rukama sagradio Gaučo ranč. Nekima je to izgledalo nemoguće, ali ja sam bio uvjeren da ću u tome uspjeti. Oduvijek sam osjećao neku snažnu vezu sa Indijancima i kaubojima i pročitao sam gotovo sve

što sam mogao o životu na Divljem zapadu i indijanskim plemenima“, uvjerljivo nam prepričava popravljajući šešir. „Ne znam si to objasniti, ali neke stvari poput toga kako se pravi indijanski vigvam ili tomahavk sam jednostavno znao.“

DUH DIVLJEG ZAPADA U ČAPLJINI Sa osmijehom i raširenih ruku pruža nam luk i strijelu koju, kako kaže, gotovo svi posjetioci žele isprobati. Oni ga, iako Juva nema službenu

internet stranicu niti upute na Google kartama o tome kako doći na ranč, pronalaze i dolaze iz cijele BiH i svijeta. “Ljudi dolaze odsvakud, interesantno im je vidjeti ovako nešto u srcu Hercegovine i rado im prepričam historiju Divljeg zapada i priče o velikim indijanskim poglavicama. Jedan dječak, koji je sa roditeljima iz Švicarske bio u posjeti ranču, pozvao me sa strane i, šapnuvši da je i on Indijanac, zamolio da uvjerim roditelje da ga ostave tu. To mi je bilo toliko simpatično da sam im rekao da su im moja vrata uvijek otvorena da dođu na nekoliko dana.“ Ništa manje sretni od djece, koja imaju priliku igrati se sa Sarom i Pončom, su i roditelji koji će uz šolju prave kaubojske kafe ili gulaša pregledati nevjerovatnu galeriju fotografija velikih poglavica i revolveraša sa Divljeg zapada.

VOŽNJA TREBIŽATOM U INDIJANSKOM KANUU Juva je poštovalac prirode i zaljubljenik u Trebižat. „Njegov žubor je moja meditacija“, reći će sa sjajem

Na Gaučo ranč dolazi se sa magistralne ceste koja vodi prema GP Bijača. Nakon nepuna tri kilometra skreće se lijevo prema rijeci i nastavlja lijevo nizvodno prema Vrankića Kolu. Gaučo ranč je odmah uz most. u očima. To se vidi i iz mnogobrojnih indijanskih mudrosti koje na materijalima sličnim jelenjoj koži krase njegov ranč. „Ne moli se kada pada kiša ako se ne moliš kada sunce sija“, jedna je od njih. Ranč je smješten na samoj obali i u vrelim ljetnim danima posjetioci ranča mogu isprobati indijanski kanu i rashladiti se u smaragdnom Trebižatu. Juva, koji je neko vrijeme radio kao skiper na Trebižatu i važi za vrsnog poznavaoca rijeke, reći će da je ona kraj njegovog ranča idealna za goste koji žele isprobati kanu. „Ovdje gdje je

rijeka mirna i nema opasnosti, gosti mogu uživati puno više nego na spustu i provozati se kada god žele. Mislim da je gostu ljepše kada je tu stacioniran, da se može lijepo odmoriti, a kada mu je do vožnje kanuom, uđe i provoza se“, uvjeren je Juva.

STARINSKI NAČIN PRIPREME JELA Što se tiče hrane i pića, sve se priprema na starinski način na vatri i u prirodi. „Samo domaći sokovi i čajevi. Povrće sâm ekološki uzgajam, zalijevam vodom iz bunara, a koristim isključivo gnojivo od konja, magarca i kokošiju. Da se malo osvrnem i na kokoši. One kod mene borave u prirodi i hrane se prirodnim putem, bez kupovne hrane. Od njih imam prava domaća zdrava jaja“, ponosno će Juva. Juva neumorno radi i na povećanju sadržaja na ranču tako da buduće goste očekuju i mnoge druge aktivnosti koje će upotpuniti cjelodnevni doživljaj. Juva će uskoro postaviti i putokaze za lakše snalaženje gostiju. 65

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GAUCHO RANCH ON THE TREBIŽAT RIVER

Native American Oasis

in the Heart of Herzegovina GAUCHO IS A SPANISH TERM COMMONLY USED TO DESCRIBE A SKILLED HORSEMAN WHO RODE THE PLAINS OF ARGENTINA, URUGUAY AND BRAZIL. CELEBRATED BY SOUTH AMERICAN WRITERS, THE LEGENDARY OUTLAWS HAVE BECOME AN INSEPARABLE ELEMENT OF CULTURAL HERITAGE OF THIS PART OF THE WORLD. Text and photos: Sead Šašivarević

A PLACE THAT RESEMBLES THE LANDSCAPES OF SOUTH AMERICA “Sara,” shouts Juva, calling the playful foal to come to him. “She’s happy to come to visitors when they call her,” he tells us as he welcomes us to the Gaucho Ranch with a smile on his face. Resembling the astonishing landscapes of South America, the ranch is situated on the Trebižat River, the largest tributary of the Neretva River, just five minutes’ drive away from the centre of Čapljina. “She’s never bored when she’s around Poncho Donkey, and they 66

always find something to do,” Tiho Sušac, also known as Juva, adds as he pats the inquisitive foal. “When I was six years old, I planted these pine trees knowing that I’d build a log cabin with them one day. Much to my friends’ disbelief, that actually happened 50 years later when I made my dream come true by building the Gaucho Ranch with my own hands. To some, it seemed impossible, but I was convinced I’d be able to do it. I always felt a strong bond with Native Americans and cowboys. I read everything there was to read about life in the Wild West and Native American tribes,” he tells us as

he adjusts his hat. “I can’t explain it to myself, but I simply knew how to do some things, for instance, how to make a Native American wigwam or tomahawk.”

SPIRIT OF THE WILD WEST IN ČAPLJINA Smiling with his hands outstretched, he gives us a bow and arrow and says that nearly all visitors want to try to shoot with it. Even though Juva does not have an official website and there are no directions on how to reach the ranch on Google maps, people from all over B&H and the world somehow manage

To reach the Gaucho Ranch, take the main road on the way to Bijača Border Crossing. After less than three kilometres, turn left towards the Trebižat River and follow the road down the river until you reach Vrankića Kolo. The Gaucho Ranch is right there, next to the bridge. that Trebižat, as it flows by the ranch, is the best place for visitors who wish to try out canoeing. “The river’s slow, smooth-flowing water in this area allows visitors to enjoy themselves without any danger. They enjoy gliding down the river much more than speeding. I think our guests prefer spending their holiday here, and when they feel like canoeing, they hop on a canoe and paddle their way along the river,” says Juva with conviction. to track him down and come to the ranch. “People come here from all over the world. They think it’s interesting so see a place like this in the heart of Herzegovina, and I’m happy to tell them the history of the Wild West and the great Native American chiefs. There was this boy… he came from Switzerland with his parents to visit the ranch, and he called me to the side to tell me something. He whispered to my ear that he was a Native American, too. He asked me to convince his parents to let him stay here. I loved it so much that I told them that my door is always open to them, and that they’re always welcome to stay for a few days.” Parents are as happy as their children who can play with Sara and Poncho because they can enjoy the taste of authentic cowboy coffee or goulash and browse an amazing photo gallery of the great Native

American chiefs and gunslingers of the Wild West.

GO DOWN THE TREBIŽAT RIVER IN A NATIVE AMERICAN CANOE Juva is a nature enthusiast and a lover of the Trebižat River. “I meditate to the sound of its bubbling waters,” his eyes glow as he mentions it. You can tell it is true because Native American words of wisdom imprinted on materials resembling deer skin are on display throughout the ranch. “Don’t pray when it rains if you don’t pray when the sun shines,” is one of them. The ranch sits on the banks of the Trebižat River. On a hot summer day visitors can go for a ride in a Native American canoe and cool off in the emerald green water. Juva, who used to be a skipper on this river and knows it inside out, will tell you

COOKING FOOD THE OLDFASHIONED WAY When it comes to food and drinks, everything is cooked the old-fashioned way over fire and outdoors. “Only homemade beverages and teas. I grow my own organic vegetables, water them using well water, and I only use organic horse, donkey and chicken manure. And, to say a thing or two about chicken… My chicken are free range and feed on natural food, without any commercial feed. They lay healthy, farm-fresh organic eggs,” Juva says with pride. Wishing to create an all-day experience of the ranch, Juva works tirelessly on expanding the services the ranch offers and on providing a wide range of activities to future visitors. He also plans to put up signposts to point visitors in the right direction. 67

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HERCEGOVINA

Nevesinja

Biseri

GRADIĆ NA JUGOISTOKU HERCEGOVINE STARI RIMLJANI VIDJELI SU KAO NEPREGLEDNU SNJEŽNU PUSTINJU. NEUESIGNE, KAZIVALI SU NA LATINSKOM ZA GRADIĆ KOJI SE PROSTIRE U PROSTRANOM KRAŠKOM NEVESINJSKOM POLJU ČIJIM DNOM TEČE RIJEKA ZALOMKA, TE NA PLANINSKIM MASIVIMA CRVNJA I VELEŽA. JOŠ OD 12. STOLJEĆA ZNAN JE HISTORIJI O KOJOJ DANAS U NJEMU PRIČAJU BROJNE NEKROPOLE STEĆAKA, STARI GRAD VJENČAC I JEDAN ČUDESNI MOST. Autorica: Semra Hodžić

OVČIJI BROD - NEIMARSKO REMEK-DJELO Ovčiji brod najstariji je most preko rijeke Zalomke koji se nalazi u selu Bratač, 13 kilometara od Nevesinja. U sadašnjem obliku izgrađen je za vrijeme Osmanskog carstva, a prema legendi se pretpostavlja da ga je dala izgraditi udovica bega Ljubovića u 17. stoljeću. No arheološka nalazišta datiraju njegovu gradnju u 18. stoljeće za vrijeme vladavine sultana Mahmuda II (1730-1754). Ipak, pretpostavlja se da je most na tom mjesto postojao još u antičko doba jer do njega vode ostaci dobro

očuvanog rimskog puta. Izgrađen je od kamena, s tri luka. Dug je 35, a širok tri metra. Ime su mu dali čobani koji su preko njega na ispašu prevodili ovce prema Zelengori, Treskavici i drugim planinama. Danas je zaštićen kao nacionalni spomenik Bosne i Hercegovine.

NEVESINJSKO „MORE“ Skoro četiri kilometra sjeverno od Nevesinja zateći ćete nevjerovatno lijepe kadrove jezera Alagovac, “nevesinjskog mora”, kako ga u ovim krajevima često vole nazivati. Jezero je smješteno u podnožju planine Velež, a nastalo je izgradnjom brane

1968. godine s namjerom da snadbijeva vodom nevesinjsku općinu. Najveće je to jezero nevesinjske doline, površine od 40 hektara. Izuzetno je bogato ribom zbog čega ga rado posjećuju ribolovci, a kraj njega se može i kampovati, na njemu veslati i u njemu plivati, šetati ili naprosto uživati u jedinstvenom krajoliku koji ga okružuje.

VISORAVAN MORINE – EVROPSKI TIBET Na prostoru između Nevesinja i Kalinovika smjestio se prelijep krajolik koji skoro kao da je u oblacima. Morine se prostiru na oko 4.700

U Nevesinju je rođen i poznati pjesnik Pero Zubac čija je poema „Mostarske kiše“ postala antologijska. U rodnom gradu proveo je djetinjstvo, pa je često znao reći kako su mu nevesinjski snjegovi bili mnogo značajniji od mostarskih kiša... Za njega su oni bili najljepša senzacija djetinjstva kojih se vrlo rado sjeća i koje je opisao u mnogim knjigama.

hektara i nalaze se na nadmorskoj visini od 1.612 metara, sjeverno od Nevesinja, a južno od Kalinovika s pogledom na planine Crvanj, Visočicu, Treskavicu, Zelengoru i ponornicu Zalomku. Zovu je još i “evropskim Tibetom”. Njome je prošao i poznati turski putopisac Evlija Čelebija. Nekada je bila prepuna i planištara, koji su tuđu stoku vodili na ispašu u planinu, a danas se nađe tek pokoji katun sa planištarima i nekadašnje kuće sa čatrnjama. Na Morinama su odlično uspijevali i pšenica, ječam, a danas sa njih dolazi vrhunski ovčiji sir. Na njima spavaju i nijemi svjedoci bh. historije - stećci. Najpoznatija nekropola je tzv. Svatovsko groblje, za koju se vežu mnogobrojne legende i priče u tom kraju. Preko Morina se dolazi i do sela Boračke vale i Crvanjskog jezera. Za Morine kažu da su posebna priča, da odišu šarmom i dušom, te da je cijeli kraj oko njih živopisan i bogat prirodnim bogat-

stvima. Nađe se pokoji putnik namjernik koji uvidi kako je ovaj predio nestvaran i ovjekovječi ga fotografijom! Kažu da je možda bolje što na njima nema mnogo putnika jer tako ostaju takve kakve jesu, svoje i neodoljive.

RODNA KUĆA SAFVETABEG BAŠAGIĆA Rodna kuća poznatog bosanskohercegovačkog književnika i narodnog preporoditelja Safvet-bega Bašagića u Nevesinju sve je popularnija među posjetiocima. Najavljeno je kako će biti otkupljena i rekonstruirana u muzejski prostor. Safvetbeg Bašagić rođen je 1870. godine i jedna je od najmarkantnijih ličnosti moderne bosanske i bošnjačke književnosti i začetnik bošnjačkog nacionalnog preporoda početkom 20. vijeka. Osnivač je mnogih listova, časopisa i nacionalnih društava. Poznat je kao istaknuti pjesnik, pre-

vodilac, historičar i političar. Bašagićeva kolekcija islamskih rukopisa i starih knjiga koja je u posjedu Bratislavske Univerzitetske biblioteke je dio UNESCO-vog programa Memory of the World Programme.

NEVESINJSKA OLIMPIJADA – KANDIDAT ZA UNESCO I Nevesinje ima svoju Olimpijadu, za koju kažu da ima tradiciju dužu od modernih olimpijskih igara. Konjičke trke, bacanje kamena s ramena, skakanje na mijeh, potezanje konopa i klipa, trka u vrećama, s jajetom u kašici, samo su neke od zabavnih takmičarskih aktivnosti koje svake godine na Bratačkom lugu okupljaju hiljade posjetilaca još od 1875. godine. Ova tradicionalna sportska manifestacija kao nematerijalno kulturno nasljeđe BiH nominirana je za upis na posebnu UNESCO listu kao primjer dobre prakse. 69

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HERZEGOVINA

Nevesinje

Pearls of

THE ANCIENT ROMANS VIEWED THIS SMALL TOWN SITUATED IN SOUTH-EAST HERZEGOVINA AS AN ENDLESS SNOW DESERT. NEUESIGNE WAS THE LATIN NAME FOR THE SMALL TOWN SPRAWLING ACROSS THE VAST KARST FIELD WITH THE ZALOMKA RIVER FLOWING AT ITS BOTTOM AND ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN MASSIFS OF THE CRVANJ AND VELEŽ MOUNTAINS. AS FAR BACK AS THE 12TH CENTURY, IT HAS A RICH HISTORY WHICH IS BEST REFLECTED IN STORIES TOLD BY A LARGE NUMBER OF MEDIEVAL TOMBSTONES, THE OLD TOWN OF VJENČAC AND A MAGICAL BRIDGE. Author: Semra Hodžić

OVČIJI BROD—CONSTRUCTION MASTERPIECE Ovčiji brod (Sheep Ship) is the oldest bridge spanning across the Zalomka River; it is located 13 kilometres away from Nevesinje in the Bratač village. Its present day form dates back to the time of the Roman Empire, and legend has it that the widow of Beg Ljubović had it erected in the 17th century. However, according to archaeological remains, it dates back to the 18th century and the rule of Sultan Mahmoud II (1730-1754). Nevertheless, word has it that there was a bridge there 70

back in ancient times since the remains of a well-preserved Roman road lead up to the bridge. It is made of stone with three arches. It is 35 metres long, and three metres wide. It was named by shepherds who led their sheep over the bridge to graze in Zelengora, Treskavica and other mountains. It is now protected as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

NEVESINJE “SEA” Nearly four kilometres north of Nevesinje you will come across stunningly beautiful scenery of Lake Alagovac, the “Nevesinje Sea” as

people in this area often like to call it. The lake is situated at the foot of Mount Velež, and it formed after a dam was constructed in 1968 to provide water for the Nevesinje municipality. It is the largest lake in the Nevesinje Valley spanning 40 hectares. It is exceedingly rich in fish which is why fishermen love to frequent it. Visitors can camp out on the lake, row a boat or swim in the lake, walk around or just enjoy the exceptional landscape that surrounds the lake.

MORINE PLATEAU— EUROPEAN TIBET In the area between Nevesinje and

Renowned poet Pero Zubac, whose poem “Rains of Mostar” is an anthological piece of poetry, was also born in Nevesinje. Since he spent his childhood in his hometown, he would often say that the snows of Nevesinje were much more important to him than the rains of Mostar… When he was a child, snow gave him the feeling of pleasure and excitement. Since he was really fond of those memories, he described them in many of his books. Kalinovik, there sits a delightful plateau as if in clouds. Spanning about 4,700 hectares, Morine Plateau is at an altitude of 1,612 metres. It lies north of Nevesinje and south of Kalinovik offering views of Crvanj, Visočica, Treskavica and Zelengora mountains and underground river called Zalomka. People call it the “European Tibet”. Renowned Turkish travel writer Evlija Čelebija crossed the plateau. While a large number of cattlemen, whose job was to lead cattle to graze on high mountain pastures, used to gather in the plateau, nowadays there are but few shepherd huts with cattlemen and dwellings with water tanks that were once used to store water in households. Wheat and barley used to be successfully cultivated in the Morine Plateau; however, nowadays high-quality sheep cheese is made there. Silent witnessed of Bosnian-Herzegovinian history— medieval tombstones—sleep in the plateau. The most popular necropolis is the so called Svatovsko groblje (Wedding Cemetery), and there are many legends and stories

associated with it in the area. When you cross the plateau, you get to the village of Boračke vale and Lake Crvanj. People say that the plateau is a rather special place exuding charm and soul, and that the whole area that surrounds it is picturesque and abundant in natural resources. Every now and then, a traveller happens to realise that how surreal the landscape is and decides to capture it in a photo! Some people say that the fact not many travellers come to the Morine Plateau allows it to stay as it is, true to itself and irresistible.

SAFVET—BEG BAŠAGIĆ’S BIRTH HOUSE The birth house of Safvet-beg Bašagić, acclaimed Bosnian-Herzegovinian poet and representative of the national revival, has become increasing popular among the visitors of Nevesinje. It was announced that it would be purchased from a private owner and renovated to become a museum. Born in 1870, Safvet-beg Bašagić was one of the most distinguished figures of modern Bosnian

and Bosniak literature and founder of the Bosniak literary revival right at the start of the 20th century. He was an acclaimed poet, translator, historian and politician. His collection of Islamic manuscripts and old books, kept at the University Library in Bratislava, is a part of UNESCO’s Memory of the World Programme.

NEVESINJE OLYMPICS NOMINATED FOR THE UNESCO LIST Nevesinje has its Olympics too and people say it has a longer tradition than the modern day Olympics. Horse racing, stone throwing, jumping onto an inflated sheepskin, tug of war, sack race, and egg-and-spoon race are just some of the fun competitions held every year at Batački lug where thousands of people have been gathering on this occasion since 1875. This traditional sporting event was nominated to be inscribed on the special UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as a model of good practice. 71

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KAMENI ZMAJEVI U NOVOM TRAVNIKU

Vječna straža

uvijek budnih očiju

NEOBIČAN SPOMENIK U BESKRAJNO LIJEPOM KRAJOLIKU LAŠVANSKE DOLINE U SREDNJOJ BOSNI U JEKU PANDEMIJE KORONAVIRUSA BIO JE JEDAN OD GLAVNIH ATRAKCIJA, ČEMU SMO POSVJEDOČILI NA DRUŠTVENIM MREŽAMA. TAJ ZANIMLJIVI I BESKRAJNO TUŽNI SPOMENIK ZAVRIJEDIO JE DA MU SE POSVEĆUJE VIŠE PAŽNJE, ČAK I KADA SE SVE GRANICE OTVORE. SJEĆANJE NA STRADALE CIVILE Riječ je o nekropoli žrtava fašizma u Novom Travniku, tzv. spomeniku “Smrike”, arhitektonskom i socijalističkom naslijeđu bivše Jugoslavije, koji je 2012. godine proglašen nacionalnim spomenikom Bosne i Hercegovine. Spomenik se nalazi na lokalitetu Smrike, na Čamića brdu između Travnika i Novog Travnika i sačinjen je od dvanaest konceptom istovjetnih skulptura raspoređenih u dva nepravilna lučna niza, stubišta sa terasama i zemljanog platoa. Podignut je 1975. godine u znak sje-

ćanja na žrtve fašističkog terora u Drugom svjetskom ratu. Naime, na tom mjestu strijeljano je oko 700 civila srednje Bosne.

DJELO JEDNOG OD NAJVEĆIH GRADITELJA REGIONALNE ARHITEKTURE

Dvanaest kamenih kenotafa koji predstavljaju simboličan grob ili spomenik podignut u znak sjećanja na pokojnike čije se tijelo nalazi drugdje sa simboličnim ornamentima umjetnička je zamisao čuvenog beogradskog arhitekte Bogdana Bogdanovića, iz njegovog stvaralačkog ciklusa među dvadeset i jednim spomenikom koje je dizajnirao na prostoru bivše Jugoslavije i koji predstavlja neizostavan dio njegovog opusa.

Bogdan Bogdanović (1922-2010) jedan je od najpoznatijih i najuspješnijih graditelja memorijalne arhitekture u regiji jugoistočne Evrope koji u svojim djelima koristi univerzalnu simboliku elemenata sunca, planeta i mjeseca kreirajući spomenik koji postaje autentični element prostora. U izvedbi Nekropole žrtvama fašizma u Novom Travniku pravljenih od kamena bihacita vidljiva su sva ta njegova umjetnička načela, gdje u

Autorica: Semra Hodžić Fotografije: Afan Abazović

apstraktnoj formi razaznajemo čuvare razrogačenih očiju koji motre s vrha brežuljka. Njihovo značenje pojašnjava i činjenica da su da su vojne osmatračnice uvijek smještene na uzvisini. Spomen ploča koja se nalazi na samom početku terasastog stubišta koje vodi do spomenika sačinjena je tako da podsjeća na stećak, a tekst na njemu je ispisan ćiriličnim i latiničnim pismom koji formom podsjeća na epigrafiku bosanskih stećaka. Dvanaest kamenih vojnika stražara zauvijek trebaju ostati na tom mjestu, širom otvorenih očiju. Oni su čuvari nedužnih, na straži sa zadatkom da spriječe stradanje.

Autor je inače koncept svojih spomenika objašnjavao shemom, pa je tako bilo i u primjeru Nekropole žrtvama fašizma: Thema: Nekropola žrtvama fašizma, Travnik 1975. Synthema: Planinski proplanak na domak staroga vezirskoga grada u centralnoj Bosni; kameni zmajevi široko otvorenih očiju, koji čuvaju i ovaj dio naše zemlje. Mythologema: Dvanaest megalitskih 'kamenova-stražara' klesanih od bihacita; vječna straža uvijek budnih očiju i mjesto na kojem se djeca rado igraju. Analogija: Teratomorfni oblici u kojima preovladava jedan od elemenata – široko otvorene oči!

KAKO DOĆI? Kada iz Travnika krenete prema Novom Travniku na putu ćete ugledati putokaz "Lokalitet Smrike" koji vodi ka ovom mjestu. Od putokaza idete lijevo, a spomenik je udaljen nekih 400-500 metara, odnosno tri kilometra zračne linije od središta Novog Travnika.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

STONE DRAGONS IN NOVI TRAVNIK

Eternal Guards

With Their Ever-vigilant Eyes

Written by: Semra Hodžić / Photographs by: Afan Abazović

A PECULIAR MONUMENT IN AN INFINITELY BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE OF THE LAŠVA VALLEY IN CENTRAL BOSNIA WAS ONE OF THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS IN THE MIDST OF THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, AS WE WERE ABLE TO SEE ON SOCIAL MEDIA. THIS INTERESTING AND ENDLESSLY SAD MONUMENT DESERVES MORE ATTENTION EVEN WHEN ALL BORDER CROSSINGS REOPEN. IN MEMORY OF CIVILIANS KILLED It is a Necropolis for the Victims of Fascism in Novi Travnik, the so called “Smrike” monument, an architectural and socialist heritage of the Former Yugoslavia, which was designated as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2012. It is situated in the area referred to as Smrike atop Čamića Brdo hill, between Travnik and Novi Travnik, and comprises twelve conceptually identical sculptures lined up in two

irregular arched rows, a terraced staircase and an earthen plateau. The monument was built in 1975 to commemorate victims of the fascist terror that occurred during the Second World War. Namely, roughly 700 civilians from Central Bosnia were shot dead at the site. The twelve stone cenotaphs, which include symbolic ornaments, symbolising empty tombs or monuments erected in honour of people whose remains are elsewhere make up a work of art designed by the acclaimed Belgrade based architect

Bogdan Bogdanović. It is one of the twenty one memorial architecture monuments that were erected throughout Former Yugoslavia based on his design, which represent an indispensable part of his opus.

WORK OF ART BY ONE OF THE BEST ARCHITECTS IN THE REGION Bogdan Bogdanović (1922-2010) was one of the best known and most successful architects in South East Europe who employed the univer-

The author generally used a scheme to explain the concept behind his monument design, so that is what he did for the Necropolis for the Victims of Fascism too: Thema: Necropolis for the Victims of Fascism, Travnik, 1975. Synthema: A mountain glade just outside of an old vizier town in Central Bosnia; stone dragons with exaggeratedly large eyes guarding this piece of our country too. Mythologema: Twelve megalithic ‘stone guards’ chiselled from Bihacite stone; eternal guards with their ever-vigilant eyes and a place where children are happy to play. Analogy: Theriomorphic shapes with a dominant element— exaggeratedly large eyes!

sal symbols of the sun, planets and moon to create a monument which becomes an authentic component of the space. In the design of the Necropolis for the Victims of Fascism in Novi Travnik chiselled from Bihacite stone we can see all of his artistic principles conveyed in an abstract form—we can discern gu-

ards with exaggeratedly large eyes watching from atop the hill. A clarification as to what they mean is also provided by the fact that military look-outs were always situated at a higher ground. A memorial plaque located at the foot of the staircase leading up to the site is made to resemble a medieval tombstone, and

the inscription it bears is written both in Cyrillic and Latin scripts resembling Bosnian medieval tombstone epigraphy in shape. The twelve stone guards are meant to stay at this place with their ever-vigilant eyes for all eternity. They are to guard innocence, on guard duty to prevent massacre.

HOW TO GET THERE? When travelling from Travnik towards Novi Travnik, you will see a sign for „Smrike Site“ leading up to this place. Turn left and after some 400-500 metres, or three kilometres from the centre of Novi Travnik as the crow flies, you will see the monument.

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

PURAČKA ĆASKA

Korak do zaštite

UNESCO-a

ZA PURAČKU ĆASKU KAŽU DA JE VIŠE OD JELA. PURAČIĆANI JE SMATRAJU NAČINOM ŽIVOTA. LAGANO, BEZ ŽURBE SE PRIPREMA U ZEMLJANIM POSUDAMA KOJE NAKON SERVIRANJA DUGO DRŽE TOPLOTU, PA SE ĆASKA JEDE POLAHKO, BEZ SRKLETA I SA ĆEJFOM, DA SE OSJETE SVI NJENI MIRISI I OKUSI. Autorica: Semra Hodžić / Fotografije: Mirha Osmanović

TRADICIONALNI SPECIJALITET PURAČIČA Puračka ćaska tradicionalni je gastronomski specijalitet Puračića, male bosanske varoši nadomak Lukavca kod Tuzle. Priprema se od mesa uz dodavanje mirođija u zemljanoj posudi (ćasi), a servira u malim zemljanim ćasama, tzv. ćaskama po kojima su i 76

dobila ime. U posebnim prilikama domaćini i domaćice u Puračiću odlažu sve radove i posvećuju se pripremanju Ćaske. Ostala im je ta navika od davnina, kada je njihova varoš bila trgovačko središte i kada je veliki broj imućnih porodica mogao sebi priuštiti jelo od samog mesa. Posla su tada imali mesari, aščije, pekari u čijim su se pećima pekle ćaske, a bome pravile i

lepine koje će se uz nju služiti. Razvijalo se i grnčarstvo, jer su se masovno kupovale ćaske, koje se „danas mogu prodati samo u Puračiću“. Ćaske su se redovno pripremale srijedom, uoči pazarnog dana na pijacama, a naročito uoči godišnjeg vašara koji je bio i ostao jedna od najmasovnijih narodnih manifestacija u Bosni i Hercegovini.

ČARŠIJA MIRISALA NA ĆASKU Kada i otkada se ovaj gastronomski specijalitet nalazi na soframa u Puračiću, dokumenti ne znaju. Tek stariji mještani na pragu stote godine života prisjećaju se da je bila prisutna i dok su oni djeca bili. Sjećaju se, kažu, da je puračka čaršija mirisala na ćasku iz brojnih pekara koje su tada radile. Ipak, njeno porijeklo se vezuje za osmanski period kada se Puračić počinje razvijati kao trgovačko središte s brojnim dućanima i zanatskim radnjama, s razvojem mesarstva, grnčarstva, trgovine i aščijstva, kao i početak sedmičnih i godišnjih pijaca-vašara koji su predstavljali masovnija okupljanja i dolazak trgovaca i kupaca iz drugih krajeva Bosne i Hercegovine i šire.

UMIJEĆE PRIPREMANJA I SLUŽENJA Kroz godine, recept za pripremu Puračke ćaske prenosio se s koljena na koljeno. I svaka je porodica u varoši imala svoje tajne kada je u pitanju izbor mesa i omjer začina kako bi ćaska bila posebna i imala što bolji i primamljiviji ukus. Za pripremu ovog jela koristi se juneće masnije meso od prednjeg dijela govečeta, crveni i bijeli luk, kao i razne mirođije. Priprema se tako da se na dno zemljane

Svake godine u Puračiću održava se gastro manifestacija „Puračko ćaskanje“ koja predstavlja druženje i takmičenje u pripremi najbolje ćaske. Također, održava se i Internacionalni festival folklora „Dani ćaske“ koji je uvršten na listu CIOFF-ovih festivala, a u okviru koga se odvija i gastrofestival tradicionalnih narodnih jela na koje su Puračićani posebno ponosni. Njihovi jedinstveni recepti objedinjeni su u knjizi „Puračka sofra“ u kojoj upravo centralno mjesto ima Puračka ćaska. ćase stavi sitno izrezan crveni i bijeli luk, suhi začini, biber i lovorov list, pa se doda meso isječeno na kockice veličine jednog zalogaja. Nakon što se poslože sve namirnice u sredinu ćase se stavi jedna cijela glavica bijelog luka, zatim se posoli i naspe voda tako da prekrije meso u ćasi. Ćasa se zatim stavi na šporet da prokuha, a potom se smanjuje temperatura, ili odmiče u stranu šporeta, da se krčka na laganoj vatri. Pri kraju kuhanja dodaju se klinčići (po želji). Kada je meso dobro skuhano, ćasa se stavi u rernu da se zapeče, kako bi komadići mesa koji vire iz ćase dobili rumenu boju, te da bi se stvorila tanka korica. Ćaska se priprema po nekoliko sati, jer što se duže krčka to je ukusnija.U kućnim uslovima ćaska se priprema u zemljanoj posudi. Servira se u male ćase-ćaske, gdje se zagrije do vrenja i služi tako vrela dok vri, konzumira se uz pekarske lepine, a

po želji kao prilog se dodaju i ljute papričice (feferone).

UPIS NA LISTU NEMATERIJALNE KULTURNE BAŠTINE BiH „Puračka ćaska – umijeće pripremanja i služenja“ upisana je kao 14-ti element na listu nematerijalnog kulturnog naslijeđa/baštine Federacije Bosne i Hercegovine, koja je dio Preliminarne otvorene liste nematerijalne kulturne baštine BiH, zahvaljujući zalaganju Kulturno-umjetničkog društva „Puračić“. Prvi je to gastro specijalitet upisan na ovu Listu, koja je preliminarna zato što predstavlja korak za upis na Reprezentativnu listu svjetske baštine koja se vodi pri UNESCO-u, a do sada su iz Bosne i Hercegovine na UNESCO Reprezentativnu listu upisana samo četiri elementa nematerijalne kulturne baštine. 77

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

PURAČKA ĆASKA

Just a Step Away From Being

Protected by UNESCO

THEY SAY THAT PURAČKA ĆASKA IS MORE THAN A DISH. THE PEOPLE OF PURAČIĆ BELIEVE IT IS A WAY OF LIFE. THE DISH IS COOKED SLOWLY, WITHOUT ANY RUSH, IN AN EARTHEN POT TO KEEP IT WARM LONGER. YOU ALSO EAT IT SLOWLY, WITHOUT HASTE, BECAUSE THIS ALLOWS YOU TO SMELL AND TASTE ALL THE FLAVOURS IN THE FOOD WITH MORE INTENSITY THAN YOU COULD OTHERWISE. Author: Semra Hodžić / Photographs: Mirha Osmanović

TRADITIONAL PURAČIĆ DELICACY Puračka ćaska is a traditional culinary delicacy in Puračić, a small Bosnian town right outside of Lukavac near the city of Tuzla. It is a meat dish seasoned with various herbs 78

and spices and baked in ćasa or an earthen pot, the so called ćaska, or a small earthen pot, after which the dish was named. On special occasions, people put off whatever they are doing to focus on baking ćaska. It is a habit from long ago when Puračić was a trading centre and when

a large number of well-to-do families was able to afford a meat-only dish. It was a busy time for the local butchers, aščije (chefs running food establishments that serve traditional Bosnian dishes) and bakers back then because they baked ćaska and lepine (traditional soft and

fluffy flatbread), which were served with this dish, in their ovens. Pottery was a successful business too as mass quantities of earthen pots were being sold. Such earthen pots “can now only be sold in Puračić”. Ćaska was regularly made in Wednesday, ahead of the market day in Puračić, and especially in the runup to the annual fair which was and still is one of the largest traditional events in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

THE ART OF PREPARING AND SERVING THE DISH Over time, the recipe for puračka ćaska was passed down from generation to generation. Each family in town had its own secrets as to the type of meat and the ratio of herbs and spices to use to enhance the flavour of the dish. Fatty cuts of young beef from the forequarter are the primary ingredients. Other ingre-

Each year, Puračić hosts a culinary event known as “Puračko ćaskanje”. It is both a social gathering and a cooking competition in which participants compete in an attempt to make the best ćaska. It is also the venue of the International Folklore Festival “Dani ćaske” (Days of ćaska). It is a recognised as CIOFF festival and includes a gastro festival featuring traditional dishes the people of Puračić are particularly proud of. Their unique recipes were compiled in a cookbook called “Puračka sofra” (sofra is a family gathering around the dining table and as well as the dining table) revolving around puračka ćaska.

SCENT OF FRESHLYBAKED ĆASKA IN ČARŠIJA There is no written record to show when this culinary delicacy was served for the first time in Puračić. Elderly residents who are approaching 100 years of age remember that it was served when they were little. They remember, they say, that they could always feel the scent of freshly-baked ćaska in čaršija (the town’s commercial area) when passing by any of the bakeries operating at the time. However, it dates back to the Ottoman era when Puračić began to develop as a commercial centre with many different shops and craftsmen’s shops. Meat trading, pottery manufacturing, trading in goods and food catering were among the major industries at the time. That period also saw the beginning of weekly and yearly markets or fairs where merchants and customers from around the country and from abroad would gather in great numbers.

dients are onion, garlic, and various h e r bs and spices. To make puračka ćaska, place thinly sliced onion and garlic, dry herbs and spices, pepper and a laurel leaf in an earthen pot, and then add meat cut in cubes of a mouthful size. Then place a whole garlic bulb in the middle of the pot, season with salt and add enough water to cover the meat. Place the pot on the stove and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the temperature, or move the pot to the side of the stove, to simmer on a low heat setting. When it is nearly done, add cloves (to taste). Cook until the meat is done, and then transfer the pot into the oven to bake until the meat

is golden-brown and crisp on top. It takes several hours to make puračka ćaska, and the longer it simmers, the tastier it gets. When made at home, it is cooked in an earthen pot. Small pots called ćaska (or ćaske for plural) are heated to a boiling point so the dish can be served while it is still boiling. It is eaten along with baked flatbread or lepina. Hot peppers (cayenne peppers) may be added for better flavour.

INSCRIPTION ON BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA’S INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE LIST “The Art of Preparing and Serving Puračka Ćaska” was added as the fourteenth element on the Intangible Cultural Heritage List of the

Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is part of Bosnia and Herzegovina Open Preliminary Cultural Heritage List. This was made possible thanks to the Culture and Art Association “Puračić”. This is the first culinary delicacy to be inscribed on this list. It is called preliminary because it is a step forward in being inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, which contains only four elements of intangible cultural heritage. 79

USPJEŠNE PRIČE / SUCCESS STORIES

ADNAN BUBALO

25 godina

uspješne fotografske karijere

IME ADNANA BUBALA, SVJETSKI PRIZNATOG BOSANSKOHERCEGOVAČKOG FOTOGRAFA, POSTALO JE SINONIM ZA VRHUNSKU LANDSCAPE FOTOGRAFIJU. PO DIPLOMI JE PRAVNIK, NO ŽIVOTNI PUT GA JE ODVEO U DRUGOM PRAVCU. POSJETIO JE MNOGE ZEMLJE SVIJETA, OD TURSKE I GRČKE DO SJEVERA NORVEŠKE, PA SVE DO KINE. DOBIO VIŠE NEGO ŠTO JE MOGAO SANJATI Da se počne baviti fotografijom presudio je ratni zadatak, a ne volja. Tada nije razmišljao o ljubavi prema fotografiji. Fascinancija fotografijom, povezat će tek kasnije, zapravo je kod njega bila prisutna od malih nogu. Prisjetio se da je svaku priliku koja mu se pružala koristio da pregleda fotografije u knjigama, magazinima, i znao je to raditi satima. U 25 godina karijere koje je nedavno zaokružio, može se izdvojiti različitih trenutaka. Ratna iskustva su mu bila i preteška, jer je dva puta ranjavan. Izazovi nakon toga su za njega bili samo prepreke koje treba savladati na putu. Posmatra ih kao dio svakodnevnice, nešto kao začin koji se dodaje životu i u čemu on zapravo uživa. Smatra da kada ste posvećeni, kada imate cilj, ništa vam nije lijeno, uživate u svemu, pa i u pripremi opreme, usponu, hodanju, čekanju… S obzirom na to da smatra da je najvažnija od svega činjenica da fotografija vrlo često povezuje ljude koji imaju nešto zajedničko, smatra da je dobio puno više nego što je mogao i sanjati.

FOTOGRAFIJA U NJEMAČKOM MUZEJU Kako to obično i biva, fotografije su govorile same za sebe i pronijele 80

„glas“ o njemu na drugi kraj svijeta. Iz daleke Kine stigao je poziv velike kineske aviokompanije Air China da dođe snimati za njih na više lokacija u Kini, pa čak i na impresivnom Tibetu.

Boravak u prirodi, planinarenje, šetnje ili posjete novih predjela

su na prvom mjestu!

Sa željom da uče od najboljeg, mnogi internacionalni fotografi dolaze u Bosnu i Hercegovinu na njegove fotoradionice, a najviše sa Bliskog istoka. Radio je za brojne magazine, važne projekte poput Via Dinarice, misije UNDP-a itd. Njegove fotografije okitile su ga brojnim nagradama, objavljivane su u renomiranim medijima širom svijeta, među kojima se naročito ističu National Geographic Traveler (Spain), National Geographic USA, Digital photographer UK, DiIgital SLR photography magazine, The Weather Channel, The Huffington Post itd. Izlagao je u svjetskim metropolama poput Rima

i Istanbula, gradovima koji za Bosance i Hercegovce imaju simbolički i historijski značaj. Velika čast pripa� la mu je kada je njegova fotografija izložena u muzeju u Oberhausenu, u Njemačkoj, u formatu 3x2 metra u okviru spektakularne izložbe “The Call of the Mountains”.

ČOVJEK PRIRODE Najbolje fotografije ovog vrsnog fotografa nastale su tokom njegovih boravaka u prirodi, za koju je strastveno vezan kao i za posao koji radi. Planinarenje, šetnje ili posjete novih predjela su za njega istinski važne zbog toliko pozitivnih efekata koje ostavljaju na njega. Nakon toga ide fotografija koja mu je vremenom postajala sve važnija i zbog toga je kamera uvijek dio njegove opreme koja nikada nije lahka. Za ovog Fojničanina, planina Vranica je na prvom mjestu. Noći i noći je znao provesti na njenom biseru – Prokoškom jezeru čekajući savršen momenat za spektakularnu fotografiju noćnog neba. Iz svog iskustva naročito izdvaja prve posjete nekoj lokaciji, poput odlazaka na sjever u potragu za polarnom svjetlošću. Danima je putovao po sjeveru i vidio da se primiču čudu, ali taj momenat kada zapravo ugledate auroru borealis i zastanete bez daha i teksta, kaže da se ne može opisati.

Kada ste posvećeni, kada imate cilj, ništa vam nije lijeno, jednostavno uživate u svemu, u pripremi opreme, usponu, hodanju, čekanju… sve ide skupa tom u paketu koji želite za sebe!

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ADNAN BUBALO

A Successful 25-year

Career in Photography

ADNAN BUBALO IS AN AWARD-WINNING PHOTOGRAPHER FROM BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA WHOSE NAME HAS BECOME A SYNONYM FOR WORLD-CLASS LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY. HE HOLDS A DEGREE IN LAW, BUT LIFE HAD OTHER PLANS FOR HIM. HE HAS BEEN TO VARIOUS COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD, FROM TURKEY AND GREECE TO NORTHERN NORWAY AND ALL THE WAY TO CHINA. HE GOT MORE THAN HE COULD HAVE DREAMED OF A defining moment for him to get into photography was not a decision he made; it was a task he was given to complete during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. He did not think about his love of photography back then. Only later did he realise that he had been fascinated with photography from a very young age. He remembers that he would use any chance he could get to look at pictures in books and magazines, and he would do it for hours on end. In his 25-year-long career in photography—a milestone he recently 82

Spending time in nature,

climbing mountains, hiking or exploring the landscapes he hasn’t seen before

comes first!

celebrated—a few moments can be singled out. His experience of war was harrowing because he got wo-

unded twice. Any challenges he had to face after that were just obstacles he needed to overcome as he moved forward. He treats challenges as part of everyday life; they spice up his life and he really enjoys it. He believes that when you are dedicated, when you have got a goal, you cannot be sluggish about anything, you enjoy everything you do, even prepping your gear, climbing mountains, hiking, waiting… Given that he believes that what matters most is the fact that photography brings together people with common interests and passions, he thinks he got more than he could have dreamed of.

When you're dedicated, when you’ve got a goal, you can’t be sluggish about anything, you simply enjoy everything you do, you enjoy prepping your gear, climbing mountains, hiking, waiting… it’s all part of the package you want for yourself!

A PHOTOGRAPH IN A GERMAN MUSEUM As it usually happens, photographs spoke for themselves and spread the “word” about him halfway across the world. He got an invitation from Air China, one of the largest airlines in China, to go to China and take pictures in different locations including the impressive Tibet area. Wishing to learn from the best in the field, many international photographers, predominantly from the Middle East, are coming to Bosnia and Herzegovina to attend his photography workshops. He worked for a large number of magazines and on important projects such as Via Dinarica, UNDP missions, etc. Many of his images have won awards and have been published in renowned newspapers and magazines, the most notable of which are:

National Geographic Traveler (Spain), National Geographic USA, Digital Photographer UK, Digital SLR Photography Magazine, The Weather Channel, The Huffington Post any many more. He exhibited his work in capital cities such as Rome and Istanbul, and in cities that have a symbolic meaning and that are of historic importance to the people of Bosnia and Herzegovina. He was greatly honoured to have one of his photographs, a 3x2-metre image, on display at the Gasometer Oberhausen, a museum in Germany, as part of a spectacular exhibition called “The Call of the Mountains”.

A MAN OF NATURE This world-renowned photographer has created some of his best images while exploring the landscapes he is as passionate about as he is about the work he does. Activities

such as climbing mountains, hiking or exploring new locations are really important to him because of all the benefits they bring. Then comes photography. Over time, photography became increasingly important to him and that is why the equipment he always carries around with him includes a camera, which is heavy. Since he is originally from Fojnica, Mount Vranica is always his first choice. He would often spend nights at Prokoško Lake—the pearl of Mount Vranica—waiting for that perfect moment to snap a spectacular picture of the night sky. He says that the first visit to a location is particularly important singling out his venturing out in search of the Northern Lights. He spent days travelling north to see a miracle unfold before his very eyes, but the moment you actually see aurora borealis, he says, it takes your breath away, 83

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

DŽENAD DŽINO

ORIGINALNI FOTOALBUMI SA VJENČANJA UZ ZNAMENITE SIMBOLE BIH Fotografije Dženada Džine malo ko do dan-danas nije vidio niti čuo za njih. Cijeli njegov fotografski opus inspiriran je prirodnim ljepotama Bosne i Hercegovine, naročito planina koje strastveno pohodi. Ljubav prema fotografiji i prirodi, Džino je odnedavno objedinio kroz kreiranje jedinstvenih fotoalbuma za vjenčanja. Ovaj čuveni fotograf iskoristio je prirodno i kulturno-historijsko blago naše prekrasne domovine za scenografiju svojih fotografija i oduševio mnoge parove koji su baš njemu povjerili da njihov dan iz snova pamte cijeli život.

DŽENAD DŽINO

ORIGINAL PHOTO ALBUMS FROM LANDMARK WEDDING VENUES IN B&H There are not many people who have not heard of or seen Dženad Džino’s photographs before. His photographic oeuvre is inspired by the natural beauty of Bosnia and Herzegovina, particularly mountains he loves to explore. Džino recently started combining his love of photography with his fascination with the natural world by creating unique wedding photo albums. This acclaimed photographer decided to use Bosnia and Herzegovina’s beautiful natural, cultural and historical heritage sites as the setting for his photographs. Many couples loved his photos so much that they decided to trust him with making their wedding day a memory of a lifetime.

Kontakt/ Contact info: Telefon/ Phone: +387(0)62/115-195 / E-mail: dzdzphotography@gmail.com 84

VRELO BOSNE / THE SOURCE OF THE RIVER BOSNIA

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

KONJIC / KONJIC

RIMSKI MOST, ILIDŽA / ROMAN BRIGDE, ILIDŽA

BLIDINJE / BLIDINJE

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

VIJEĆNICA, SARAJEVO / SARAJEVO CITY HALL

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

MOSTAR / MOSTAR

PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL

FURAJ.BA U POSJETI TURSKOJ

Çanakkale

Od Troje do Galipolja

ZABRANJENE LJUBAVI, VITEŠTVO, ARHEOLOŠKA NALAZIŠTA, ČAST I OSVETA, VELIKE POBJEDE I NENADOKNADIVI PORAZI, SVE JE TO UTKANO U HISTORIJU ČANAKKALA. SMJEŠTEN U SJEVEROZAPADNOJ TURSKOJ, NA AZIJSKOJ STRANI MORSKOG PROLAZA DARDANELI, SVOJE SAGE IZ PROŠLOSTI UJEDINJUJE S VELIČANSTVENOM PRIRODOM, ŠLJUNKOVITIM PLAŽAMA, ŠARMANTNIM RESTORANIMA I LJUBAZNIM LOKALCIMA NUDEĆI SVE USLOVE ZA PREKRASAN ODMOR U TURSKOJ Tekst i fotografije: Emira Azganović

FURAJ.BA VISITING TURKEY

From Troy to Gallipoli FORBIDDEN LOVES, CHIVALRY, ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES, HONOUR AND REVENGE, MAJOR VICTORIES AND IRREPARABLE DEFEATS ARE ALL WOVEN INTO THE FABRIC OF ÇANAKKALE’S HISTORY. SITUATED IN NORTH-WESTERN TURKEY, ON THE ASIAN SIDE OF THE DARDANELLES, WITH HISTORICAL SAGAS DATING BACK TO TIMES LONG PAST FUSED TOGETHER WITH MAGNIFICENT NATURAL LANDSCAPES, GRAVEL BEACHES, CHARMING RESTAURANTS, AND FRIENDLY LOCALS, THE CITY HAS GOT EVERYTHING YOU COULD POSSIBLY NEED FOR A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY IN TURKEY Written and photographed by: Emira Azganović

PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL

istorija, arheologija i mitologija učinile su Čanakkale važnom tačkom na planeti Zemlji. U prevodu grnčarska utvrda, Čanakkale svoj naziv duguje keramičkoj produkciji, no tako se ne zove samo grad smješten u dijelu moreuza Dardaneli, kojim se razdvajaju evropski i azijski kontinent, nego i regija na Mramornom moru.

vičan broj života – oko pola miliona vojnika poginulo je na obje strane. Bojna polja, vojnička groblja kao i podignuti spomenici čine danas Nacionalni park Galipolje, koji izgleda poput ratnog muzeja pod otvorenim nebom. Na ovom ogromnom prostoru također se nalaze jedno slano jezero i litica Arıburnu.

POPRIŠTE HISTORIJSKIH BITKI

Tokom posjete Čanakkalu obavezno treba doživjeti antičke gradove Asos i Troju, kao i Arheološki muzej Troja. Na šetalištu uz obalu mora, pored brojnih restorana i kafea, nalazi se replika Trojanskog konja, koja je napravljena za potrebe snimanja čuvenog filma Troja. Poklonjen gradu po završetku snimanja, danas predstavlja njegovu najpopularniju turističku atrakciju. U n e p o s re d n o j blizini je i maketa Troje, sa palatama i hramovima, gdje se može dobiti uvid u moć i bogatstvo Troje.

Geografski položaj često je u prošlosti otežavao dalji razvoj grada Čanakkale, jer je svaka neprijateljska vojska koja se kretala prema Carigradu najprije napadala njega. Tako će tužna ratna prošlost učiniti da Čanakkale postane poprište velikih historijskih bitki. Bitka na Galipolju, koja se odigrala 1915., učinila je grad poznatim u cijelom svijetu. U vrijeme Prvog svjetskog rata sile Antante, koju su činile Engleska, Francuska i Rusija, u zajedničkoj akciji pokušale su okupirati poluotok s ciljem njegovog iskorištavanja kao baze za osvajanje osmanske prijestolnice Istanbula. Pokušaj je propao, ali je odnio stra94

GRADSKE ATRAKCIJE

Sahat kula je ta-

Na poziv Ministarstva za kulturu i turizam Republike Turske i Turske državne agencije za promociju turizma (TGA) ekipa magazina Furaj.ba posjetila je u martu 2021. čuveno historijsko odredište Čanakkale. kođer neizbježno mjesto u ovom gradu na kojem svaki posjetilac fotografijom ovjekovječi svoj dolazak. Visoka 20 metara, na pet spratova koji se prema vrhu postepeno sužavaju, sa četiri sata i zvonikom na vrhu, ona je ujedno i popularno mjesto za susrete i početak dugih šetnji ulicama Čanakkala. Zahvaljujući plodnim ravnicama, voćnjacima i borovima, grad Čanakkale također slovi za zelena pluća ove regije.

istory, archaeology and mythology have made Çanakkale an important place on Earth. Çanakkale is known for its pottery—the city’s name means pot fortress—but that is not only the name of the city situated on the Dardanelles, a narrow strait that separates not only the European and Asian continents, but also the name of a region in the Sea of Marmara.

Ottoman capital at Constantinople (Istanbul). The attempt failed, but resulted in terrible casualties—about half a million soldiers were killed on each side. Home to battlefields, military graveyards and memorials that were erected after the battle, the Gallipoli Peninsula Historical Museum resembles an open air war museum. It covers a vast area includng the Salt Lake and the Ariburnu Cliffs.

A HISTORIC BATTLEFIELD SITE

CITY ATTRACTIONS

Due to its geographical location, the city’s further development was often hindered in the past. On their way to Constantinople, any enemy forces would first attack Çanakkale. Çanakkale’s sad war history would make this city a major historic battlefield site. The Battle of Gallipoli, which took place in 1915, made the city famous throughout the world. In World War I, the Entente powers, France, Britain, and Russia, sought to take control over the Gallipoli peninsula and use it as the base to occupy the

The ancient cities of Assos and Troy and the Archaeological Museum of Troy are must-sees in Çanakkale. A replica of the Trojan horse, which was the actual horse used in the famous film “Troy”, sits on the waterfront. After the filming was completed, the replica was donated to this site. The Trojan horse is now the most popular tourist attraction in Çanakkale. Nearby, there is a scale model of Troy with palaces and temples which provides an insight into the wealth and power of Troy. No self-respecting tourist should leave Çanakkale without snapping a

At the invitation of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Turkey and the Turkish Tourism Promotion and Development Agency (TGA), Furaj.ba magazine representatives visited the famous historical site of Çanakkale in March 2021. picture of the Clock Tower, another city landmark. The 20-metre high and five-story tower, with a clock on each of the four sides and a bell on the top, narrows slightly as it rises. It is a popular meeting point, but also a starting point for long walks through the streets of Çanakkale. Thanks to its fertile plains, orchards and pine trees, Çanakkale is also dubbed as the green lungs of the region. 95

PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL

Drevni grad

na 235 m visokoj litici ASOS JE OSNOVAN POČETKOM 1. MILENIJA PRIJE NOVE ERE

ut do arheološkog nalazišta Asos, koje se nalazi na 235 metara visokoj litici iznad mora vodi kroz Behramkale, malo selo na sjevernom dijelu egejske obale, u turskoj provinciji Čanakkale, s prekrasnim pogledom na more, kućama građenim od vulkanskog kamena i mnoštvom malih restorana i pansiona.

đer gradski zid, glavna vrata, agora (glavni trg) te gimnazija. Ulaz u drevni grad predstavljaju dva velika helenska stupca na sjeverozapadnoj strani arheološkog nalazišta, dok se mnogo dragocjenih ostataka Asosa, poput njegove umjetnosti, može vidjeti u muzeju Louvre u Parizu.

GRAD U KOJEM JE ŽIVIO ARISTOTEL

Jedan od najpoznatijih stanovnika antičkog Asosa bio je Aristotel, koji je napustio Platonovu akademiju u Atini i preselio se u Asos, gdje je postao čelnik skupine filozofa. Od 334. do 241. godine prije nove ere Asos je bio pod vladavinom Aleksandra Velikog. Tvrđavu Asos Grci su mogli odbraniti u 14. vijeku, no nedugo potom naselje prelazi ponovo u posjed Osmanlija.

Prvi doseljenici ovdje su se naselili već u bronzanom dobu, a sam grad osnovan je početkom 1. milenija prije nove ere. Asos je najpoznatiji po Hramu boginje Atine. Na padini ispod njega nalaze se ostaci amfiteatra koji je mogao primiti 5000 gledatelja. Pored njih, iz vremena nastanka grada, ostalo je sačuvano 38 izvornih stubova, tako96

APOLONOV HRAM Hram Apolona Sminteusa nalazi se u mirnom selu Gülpınar, na putu između Asos i Troja hrama. Ovdje je Apolon slavljen kao gospodar miševa, jer je, prema mitologiji, uspostavljao pravdu kažnjavajući moćne kraljeve kugom, koja se širila miševima, zbog nepravde prema svom narodu. Hram je izgrađen u današnjoj regiji bogatoj vodom – Bahceli. Tipično je to za Apolonova svetišta, koja su građena na samom izvoru ili blizu izvora vode, kako bi svećenici mogli prakticirati ritual proricanja budućnosti gledajući u vodu. Hram Apolona Sminteusa izgrađen je u 2. vijeku prije nove ere. Okružuju ga 44 stuba, po osam stubova na kraćim i po 14 na dužim stranama. Spominje se u Epu o Ilijadi, a mitološke scene iz epa prikazane su na pojedinim frizovima hrama.

Ancient City

Perched on a 235-metre Cliff ASSOS WAS FOUNDED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE FIRST MILLENNIUM BEFORE CHRIST

he road to the archaeological site of Asssos, which lies on a steep hill rising 235 metres above sea level, passes through Behramkale, a small village located along the western coastline of the Aegean Sea, in Çanakkale province, Turkey, and commands panoramic vistas of the sea, houses built of volcanic rock, and a myriad of small restaurants and inns.

ARISTOTLE RESIDED IN ASSOS The first settlers settled in the area as early as in the Bronze Age, and the city was founded at the beginning of the first millennium BC. Assos is most famous for the Temple of Athena. Below the temple, sitting on the hillside, ruins of the Assos amphitheatre that was built for 5,000 spectators are situated. Close by, six of the original 38 columns remain from the time when the city was founded, as well as

the city walls and gates, the agora (the main square), and the gymnasium. To the northwest of the site, two massive Hellenic columns still mark the gate to the city. A lot of the precious remains of Assos, such as its art, can be viewed at the Louvre in Paris. One of the most famous residents of ancient Assos was Aristotle.

He left the Platonic Academy in Athens, and moved to Assos where he became head of a group of philosophers. From 334 and 241 BC, Assos was under the reign of Alexander the Great. The Greeks were able to defend the Assos Temple until the Ottomans conquered Assos again at the beginning of the 14th century.

TEMPLE OF APOLLO The Temple of Apollo Smintheus is situated in a small village of Gülpınar, on the road between Assos and Troy Temple. This is where Apollo was worshipped as the god of mice, because he established justice by punishing the powerful kings for their injustice to their people, by plague epidemics spreading with mice. The temple was erected in today’s Bahceli region, which is rich in water. Apollo sanctuaries are usually located near water sources or directly at the source. The reason for this is that the priests who foretold the future prophesied by looking at the water. The Temple of Apollo Smintheus was built in the second century BC. It is surrounded by a total of 44 columns, eight on short sides and 14 on long sides. The temple is mentioned in Homer’s epic poem The Iliad, and the mythological scenes of the poem were described in detail in the column reliefs (friezes) on the upper part of the temple. 97

PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL

Grad uništen zbog zabranjene ljubavi O TROJI SMO SAZNAVALI KROZ HISTORIJU, KNJIŽEVNOST I FILM, DIVILI SE JUNACIMA TOG VREMENA, PODRŽAVALI ILI OSUĐIVALI LJUBAV ZBOG KOJE JE ZAPOČEO DESETOGODIŠNJI TROJANSKI RAT

a svojih 4000 godina historije, Troja je jedan od najslavljenijih antičkih gradova u svijetu. Nalazi se na UNESCO-vom popisu svjetske kulturne baštine, a otkrio ju je u 19. vijeku njemački arheolog Heinrich Schliemann.

PRVI IZBOR ZA MISS I TRAGEDIJA KOJA JE USLIJEDILA Da bi se shvatili historija i život u Troji preporučljivo je najprije posjetiti Muzej Troja u kojem je dočaran grad u njegovim različitim historijskim razdobljima. Različiti slojevi Troje u nišama na zidovima prikazuju nadgrobne spomenike s velikim skulpturama, scenske animacije i fotografije velikih dimenzija. Tu se također nalaze i 3D animacije kao i hologrami, gdje glavni junaci Homerove Ilijade izgovaraju stihove.

Priča o Trojanskom ratu širila se putem Homerovih epova Ilijade i Odiseje. O Troji smo saznavali kroz historiju, književnost i film, divili se junacima tog vremena, podržavali ili osuđivali ljubav zbog koje je započeo desetogodišnji Trojanski rat. Niko nije mogao ostati ravnodušan na legende i mitove. Prema mitologiji, Troja je prvo mjesto gdje je održan izbor za miss. Na izboru za najljepšu ženu učestvovale su Hera, Afrodita i Atina. Sudija je bio Paris, trojanski princ, kojem je Hera obećala moć, Atina bogatstvo, a Afrodita ruku najljepše žene na svijetu. Nakon što ju je proglasio najljepšom među božicama, Afrodita mu je obećala da će Helena, najljepša žena onog doba, žena spartanskog kralja Menelaja, Zeusova i Ledina kći, postati njegova žena. Zbog toga se rat nije mogao izbjeći. Grci su Helenin dobrovoljni odlazak s Parisom shvatili kao otmicu. Spartanski kralj

Menelaj zajedno sa svojim bratom okupio je vojsku krenuvši svojim brodovima u osvajanje Troje. Gotovo 10 godina Troja je odolijevala ovim napadima. Grcima je samo Odisejev lukavi plan omogućio da zauzmu Troju tako što su sagradili velikog drvenog konja i ostavili ga Trojancima na dar, dok su se sami ukrcali na brodove i otplovili, navodno, kući. Zapravo se unutar kipa skrivala skupina najboljih ratnika, koji su po noći izašli iz konja i do temelja srušili i spalili grad. Tako se pojavio poznati izraz “trojanski konj”. Danas su od ovog naselja na čijem ulazu u stari grad stoji velika maketa trojanskog konja ostale samo ruševine koje su pronašli arheolozi. Kada posjetioci znaju priče i tajne Troje, onda sasvim drugačije i doživljavaju arheološke iskopine koje više ne predstavljaju samo zidove i amfiteatre, nego imaju mnogo dublji, emotivniji doživljaj.

A City That Was Destroyed Because of Forbidden Love WE READ ABOUT TROY IN HISTORY AND LITERATURE BOOKS, SAW IT IN FILMS, ADMIRED THE HEROES OF THAT TIME, AND SUPPORTED OR CONDEMNED THE LOVE THAT WAS THE MAIN REASON FOR THE TEN-YEAR TROJAN WAR

ith its history dating back to 4,000 years ago, Troy is one of the world’s most famous ancient cities. It was discovered in the nineteenth century by German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, and is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

THE SITE OF THE FIRST BEAUTY CONTEST AND THE TRAGEDY THAT ENSUED To understand the history of and life in Troy, it might be a good idea to visit the Troy Museum first. It depicts the city throughout various historical periods. Different layers of Troy in the niches on the walls feature massive sculptures, stage animations and large-size photographs, three-dimensional animations and holograms featuring main characters in Homer’s Illiad reciting the verses from the poem. The story of the Trojan War was passed on through Homer’s epics, The Illiad and The Odyssey. We read

about Troy in history and literature books, saw it in films, admired the heroes of that time, and supported or condemned the love that was the main reason for the ten-year Trojan War. Legends and myths spoke to all of our hearts. According to mythology, Troy was the site of the first beauty contest. Three goddesses claimed the title: Hera, Aphrodite, and Athena. Paris, a mortal Trojan prince, was the judge of the contest. Hera promised power, Athena promised wealth, and Aphrodite promised Paris the hand in marriage of the most beautiful of all mortal women. After Paris decided that Aphrodite was the fairest goddess, Aphrodite promised him that she would ensure that Helen, the most beautiful mortal woman, the daughter of Zeus and Leda, who was already married to the Spartan king Menelaus, wo� uld become his wife. That is why the war was inevitable. Paris sailed home to Troy with his new bride, an act which was considered abduction regardless of Helen’s complicity. The Greeks assembled a great

army, led by Menelaus and his brother, Agamemnon, to retrieve Helen and conquer Troy. For almost ten years the city remained impregnable. The Greeks finally won the war by an ingenious piece of deception devised by Odysseus. They built a large hollow wooden horse with warriors hidden inside and left it as a gift for the Trojans. The Greeks pretended to board their ships and sail away. The Trojans pulled the horse into their city as a victory trophy. When night fell, the best Greek warriors emerged from the horse and burned and destroyed Troy to the ground. That is when the term the Trojan horse was coined. At the city entrance stands a huge symbolic horse, built to scale. Nowadays, only ruins remain of this ancient settlement. When visitors know the stories and secrets of Troy, their experience of the archaeological remains discovered at this site are rather different, as they are no longer just walls and amphitheatres—they carry a much deeper emotional meaning for them.

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

TURSKA - SIGURNA DESTINACIJA ZA PUTOVANJA

PUTOVANJE U TURSKU

U VRIJEME PANDEMIJE MEĐU GRAĐANIMA BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE, VEĆ DUGI NIZ GODINA JEDNA OD OMILJENIH DESTINACIJA ZA PUTOVANJA JE PREKRASNA TURSKA. OVA JEDINSTVENA DESTINACIJA U SVIJETU SA SAVRŠENOM KLIMOM, KOJA POSJETIOCE INSPIRIŠE SVOJOM HISTORIJOM, PRIRODOM I GASTRONOMIJOM, I TOKOM PANDEMIJE JEDNA JE OD NAJPOSJEĆENIJIH ZBOG NASTOJANJA VLASTI DA SE SVI NJENI POSJETIOCI OSJEĆAJU SIGURNIM TOKOM SVOG BORAVKA U TOJ ZEMLJI.

NEMA ULASKA BEZ PCR TESTA Kako bi vaši domaćini, a i vi bili mirniji, Turska je pooštrila pravila ulaska u zemlju tokom pandemije. Svi putnici koji putuju u Tursku obavezni su popuniti online formular 72 sata prije putovanje na stranici: https:// register.health.gov.tr, te popunjen formular sačuvati na svom mobilnom telefonu ili odštampati. Za ulazak u Republiku Tursku neophodan je i negativan PCR test ne stariji od 72 sata od trenutka putovanja.

Turska poduzima sve aktivnosti kako bi osigurala da i dalje bude zdrava i sigurna turistička destinacija u 2021. godini i da će biti jedan od najboljih izbora kao opcija sigurnog putovanja za putnike na međunarodnom nivou. 100

PROGRAM SIGURNOG TURIZMA Turska je sprovela „Program sigurnog turizma“ za turističku sezonu 2020. godine što se očekuje i u predstojećoj sezoni. Program, koji su brzo usvojili svi ključni akteri u turističkom sektoru, definira niz mjera koje se moraju poduzeti u širokom spektru povezanih sektora, uključujući ugostiteljske objekte, usluge prijevoza i smještaja, kako bi se osiguralo zdravlje i dobrobit

osoblja i gostiju, kako domaćih tako i stranih. Tako npr. već u avionu dobijate higijenski set sa maskom i sredstvima za dezinfekciju. Po povratku kući putnici ponovo popunjavaju formular koji je potreban kako bi vas evidentirale zdravstvene institucije u slučaju potrbe. U Turskoj svi nose maske i svi drže distancu, posvuda su sredstva za dezinfekciju i to besplatna, u hotelima i restoranima gostima se mjeri temperatura i moraju proći kroz tunel za dezinfekciju a escajg i peciva su upako-

vani. Ukoliko strahujete od gužvi u gradskom prijevozu koji će vam trebati za obilazak grada, gužvi uopće nema, samo treba napomenuti da se njime ne mogu voziti mlađi od 20, a stariji od 65 godina. Za lokalce u Turskoj uveden je i policijski sat i lockdown nedeljom, no on ne važi za turiste, tako da će vam se činiti kao da imate ovu prekrasnu zemlju samo za sebe.

U Turskoj se može kupiti polica putnog zdravstvenog osiguranja koja pokriva sve troškove hitne medicinske pomoći koja je potrebna zbog nastanka bolesti osiguranika ili posljedica nesretnog slučaja isključivo za vrijeme privremenog boravka u Turskoj. VAKCINACIJA TURISTIČKIH RADNIKA Turska je najavila da pokreće program registracije vakcinisanja za zaposlene u turizmu u koordinaciji s Ministarstvom kulture i turizma, Ministarstvom zdravlja i Turskom agencijom za promociju i razvoj turizma (TGA). Program je pokrenut u okviru „Programa certificiranja sigurnog turizma“ kako bi poželjeli dobrodošlicu međunarodnim putnicima za predstojeću turističku sezonu i osigurali zdravlje i sigurnosti zaposlenih u turizmu i svojih gostiju koji su i dalje je njen najveći prioritet. U okviru programa, vakcinisat će se prije svega zaposlenici smještajnih kapaciteta, restorana, turističkih agencija i turistički vodići, koji su registrovani u okviru ‘Programa certificiranja sigurnog turizma’.

TURKEY—SAFE TRAVEL DESTINATION

TRAVELLING TO TURKEY DURING THE

COVID-19 PANDEMIC FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS TURKEY HAS BEEN ONE OF THE FAVOURITE TRAVEL DESTINATIONS AMONG BOSNIANS AND HERZEGOVINIANS. THIS REMARKABLE COUNTRY, WHICH HAS AN IDEAL CLIMATE AND CONTINUES TO INSPIRE VISITORS WITH ITS RICH HISTORY, NATURAL LANDSCAPES AND CULINARY SPECIALTIES, IS ONE OF THE MOST FREQUENTLY VISITED COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD EVEN DURING THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC BECAUSE ITS AUTHORITIES MAKE THE UTMOST EFFORT TO MAKE GUESTS FEEL SAFE DURING THEIR STAY IN TURKEY.

NO ENTRY WITHOUT A NEGATIVE PCR TEST To put both your host’s and your own mind at ease, Turkey has introduced tougher restrictions on entry in Turkey during the coronavirus pandemic. All incoming passengers are now required to fill out an onli-

ne form 72 hours prior to departure which is available at https://register. health.gov.tr, and have an electronic copy of the form on their mobile phones or a printed copy. In addition, passengers are also required to present a negative PCR test result taken within 72 hours prior to the start of their journey at the latest. 101

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Turkish government is all about making sure the country remains a healthy and safe destination for tourists and one of the world’s safest tourist destinations in 2021.

SAFE TOURISM CERTIFICATION PROGRAMME Turkey implemented the “Safe Tourism Certification Programme” in 2020, and it is expected to be implemented in the forthcoming season too. The programme, which was quickly embraced by key stakeholders in the tourism industry, defines a series of measures to be taken in a wide spectrum of mutually related industries, including catering, transportation and accommodation industries to ensure health and well-being for staff and guests, both local and foreign. Upon boarding, passengers will get a complimentary hygiene kit of disposable protective gear that includes a mask and hand sanitizer gel. Upon return to their home countries, passengers are be required to complete another form so that health authorities to assist them in passenger contact tracing. In Turkey, everyone wears a face covering and keeps a distance 102

from others. Complimentary hand sanitisers are available everywhere you turn. Hotels and restaurants conduct temperature screenings of guests upon entering the premises, and guests are also required to pass through disinfection tunnels. Cutlery sets and pastries are wrapped. There is no need for you to be concerned about overcrowding on public tran-

In Turkey, you can buy a health insurance policy that covers the cost of emergency treatment you may require if you become ill or suffer injuries in an accident exclusively during your temporary stay in Turkey. sport when you head out to explore the city you are visiting, because public transportation vehicles are not crowded at all. Note, however, that people below 20 and over 65 years

of age are not allowed to use public transport. There is a curfew for Turkish residents and a lockdown on Sunday, but it does not apply to tourists, so it will seem as if you have this beautiful country just for yourself.

VACCINATION OF WORKERS IN THE TOURISM INDUSTRY Turkey has announced that it is rolling out a tourism worker vaccination registration program for workers in the tourism industry in coordination with the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Ministry of Health, and the Turkish Tourism Promotion and Development Agency (TGA). The Program has been launched as part of the “Safe Tourism Certification Programme” to welcome international travellers for the upcoming tourism season and to ensure the health and safety of workers in the tourism industry and its own residents remains its utmost priority. Within the scope of the programme, employees in accommodation facilities, restaurants, travel agencies and tour guides registered under the programme will be vaccinated first.

KUHINJA / KITCHEN

Zobene kaše / Oatmeals

Idealne za brz i zdrav doručak

Perfect for a Quick and Healthy Breakfast

ZOBENA KAŠA ODLIČAN IZBOR JE ZA DORUČAK JER JE ZOB ŽITARICA IZUZETNO BOGATA BJELANČEVINAMA, MINERALIMA, VITAMINIMA I AMINOKISELINAMA.

OATMEAL IS A GREAT CHOICE FOR BREAKFAST BECAUSE OATMEAL IS EXTREMELY RICH WITH PROTEINS, MINERALS, VITAMINS AND AMINO ACIDS.

ZOBENA KAŠA S JABUKAMA I CIMETOM Sastojci: - jabuka - 60 g zobenih pahuljica - 1/2 kašikice cimeta - 150 ml zobenog mlijeka - kašikica kokosovog ulja Priprema: Jabuku ogulite i narežite na kockice. Na tavi zagrijijte kokosovo ulje pa dodajte jabuke. Dinstajte ih dok ne omekšaju, pa dodajte cimet i promiješate pa ostavite poklopljeno sa strane. Ugrijte mlijeko, zatim dodaje zobene pahuljice. Kad se skuhaju, dodajte jabuke u cimetu i sve promiješajte! Možete dodati i med!

OATMEAL WITH APPLES AND CINNAMON Ingredients: - apple - 60 g oatmeal - 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon - 150 ml of oat milk - spoon of coconut oil Directions: Peel an apple and cut it into cubes. Heat the coconut oil in a pan and add the apples. Simmer until soft, then add the cinnamon and stir, then set aside. Heat the milk, then add the oatmeal. When cooked, add the apples to the cinnamon and stir everything! You can also add honey!

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ZOBENA KAŠA SA ČOKOLADOM I ŠUMSKIM VOĆEM Sastojci: - kašika chia sjemenki + oko 4 kašike vode - 500 ml zobenog ili bademovog mlijeka - 100 g zobenih pahuljica - kašikica kakaa u prahu - kašikica meda - oko 50 g šumskog voća (borovnice, maline)

Priprema: Namočite chia sjemenke kako bi nabubrile dok pripremate kašu. Potom ih stavite u zdjelu, prelijte vodom, promiješajte i ostavite deset minuta. Ugrijte mlijeko zajedno s kakaom! Kad provri dodajte zobene pahuljice koje trebate kuhati do željene gustoće na laganoj vatri uz povremeno miješanje i pazeći da ne iskipi. Kad bude gotovo, dodajte med i chia sjemenke, promiješajte pa ukrasite šumskim voćem i uživajte!

OATMEAL WITH CHOCOLATE AND WILD BERRIES Ingredients: - spoon of chia seeds + about 4 tablespoons of water - 500 ml of oat or almond milk - 100 g oatmeal - tablespoon of cocoa powder - tablespoon of honey - about 50 g of forest fruits (blueberries, raspberries) Directions: Soak chia seeds to swell while preparing the porridge. Then place them in a bowl, pour over the water, stir and leave for ten minutes. Heat the milk along with the cocoa! When it boils, add the oatmeal, which you need to cook to the desired density over a low heat, stirring occasionally and taking care not to boil. When it is done, add honey and chia seeds, stir and garnish with wild berries and enjoy!

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Lily- the smartwatch you've been waiting for

Navigo Sistem BH d.o.o, Dalmatinska 4., Sarajevo 033/226-223 Garmin-BiH-Navigo-sistem-BH garminbh_navigosistem_bh

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