Furaj04_august by Furaj.ba

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TURQUOISE

Ambasada Republike Turske Ured savjetnika za kulturu i turizam Ferhadija 26, 71000 Sarajevo, Bosna i Hercegovina Tel: + 387 33 550 760 www.turska.ba 3

SADRŽAJ NOVOSTI 10 Sarajevo Coca Cola polumaraton TEMA BROJA 50 NJEMAČKA: Zemlja raznovrsnosti Ambasador SR Njemačke u BiH, Dr. Christian Hellbach Poziv iz ubjeđenja i naklonosti 52 Upoznajte Berlin 58 Čuveni nacionalni parkovi Njemačke 66 SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL 18 Praznik u Sarajevu Filmska čarolija 2016 28 INTERVJUI Mirsad Purivatra, direktor Sarajevo Film Festivala - Srce koje kuca za Sarajevo 22 Moamer Kasumović, glumac - Sjajni momak 34 Anila Gajević, direktorica Casting i talent agencije Zona - Žena koja slijedi svoje ideje 44 KOLUMNA Vedran Jakupović - Pogled s memli strane 120

MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Njegovo veličanstvo, Nacionalni park “Una” 109 Prokoško jezero 106 Ergela “Borike” 96 Vjetrenica, mistični dragulj Hercegovine 102 Izletišta u okolini Banje Luke 92 REPORTAŽA Faruk Čaluk - Šri Lanka 112 PREDSTAVLJAMO Klopa, mjesto dobre hrane 90 EDITORIJAL Samir Zahirović, fotograf Objektiv, moj prozor u svijet 78 BUDIMO ZDRAVI -Specijalna bolnica za ortopediju i opštu hirurgiju Dr. Nemec 124 VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE Ljetne salate 128

CONTENT NEWS 10 Sarajevo Coca Cola Half Marathon COVER STORY 50 GERMANY - Land of diversity Ambassador of the Federal Republic of Germany, Dr. Christian Hellbach Vocation out of conviction and affection 52 Meet Berlin 58 Famous national parks of Germany 66

SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL 18 A Festivity in Sarajevo Movie Magic 2016. 28 INTERVIEWS Mirsad Purivatra, SFF Director - The Heart Beating for Sarajevo 22 Moamer Kasumović, actor - A great guy 34 Anila Gajević, managing director of Casting and talent agency Zona - Woman who goes after her ideas 44 COLUMN Vedran Jakupović - A view from a musty side 121

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MY WONDERFUL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA His Majesty - The National Park “Una” 111 Prokoško Lake 108 A stud farm “Borike” 97 Vjetrenica, a mysterious jewel of Herzegovina 104 Resorts surrounding Banja Luka 94 TRAVEL REPORT Faruk Čaluk – Sri lanka 113 WE PRESENT Klopa, a place with good food 91 EDITORIAL Samir Zahirović, photographer Lense – my window to the world 78

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BE HEALTHY Special Orthopaedics and General Surgery Hospital “Dr Nemec” 126 TIME FOR COOKING Summer salads 129

fotografija naslovnice / cover photo www.depositphoto.com

IMPRESSUM

FURAJ.BA Magazine br. 04. - August 2016 Direktor / Director Emira Azganović

Bosna i Hercegovina, Bosnia and Herzegovina; foto/photo: Sulejman Muratović

Izvršni urednik / Execute Editor Elma Zećo Redakcija / Editorial Faruk Čaluk, Ivana Dukčević Aleksandra Vižin Vedran Jakupović Dasha Gajić Art Director Damir Hrnjičić Prevod / Translation Samra Skokić Fotografije / Photos Sulejman Muratović, Almin Zrno, Edvin Kalić, Adnan Bubalo, Irfan Redžović, Samir Zahirović Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.

Umnožavanje ove publikacije ili bilo kojeg njeog dijela ne smije se reproducirati, pohranjivati u sistemu za pretraživanje ili prenositi u bilo kojem obliku na bilo koji način, elektronički, mehanički, fotokopiranjem, snimanjem ili na drugi način, bez odobrenja izdavača. Redakcija FURAJ.BA magazina ne odgovara za sadržaj i istinitost objavljenih reklamnih poruka i preuzetih sadržaja sa pomenutih ili oglašavanih elektronskih lokacija. Ne snosimo odgovornost za nenamjerne i štamparske greške. Multiplication of this publication or any part of it mustn’t be reproduced, stored in search engines or transferred in any form, in any way, electronically, mechanically, copying, recording or any other way without the publisher’s approval. The editorial staff of the Furaj.ba magazine takes no responsibilities for the content and the validity of published advertising messages and downloaded content from above mentioned or advertised electronic sources. We don’t take responsibility for inadvertent and typographical errors.

www.furaj.ba

S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Uvodnik

Intro

Dragi čitatelji,

Dear readers,

pred vama je već četvrto izdanje magazina Furaj.ba. Svjesni da svaka ideja traži vrijeme, naša srca neprestano poigravaju od sreće zbog velikih uspjeha koje je za tako kratko vrijeme počeo nizati osnažujući krila na kojima letimo ka budućnosti.

in front of you is already the forth issue of the magazine Furaj.ba. Aware that every idea takes time, our hearts are in constant flutter of happiness because of the big successes that it has achieved in such a short time, thus giving wind to the wings with which we fly towards future.

Nakon što smo u drugom izdanju bili pozvani da budemo medijski pokrovitelj velikog događaja – Sarajevo Business Foruma, četvrto izdanje objavljujemo povodom Sarajevo Film Festivala – kao specijalno izdanje i medijski partner jednog od najuticajnijih festivala na području Jugoistočne Evrope.

After we were invited at our second issue to be a media sponsor of a big event – Sarajevo Business Forum, our fourth edition is being published on the occasion of Sarajevo Film Festival – as a special issue and for being a media sponsor of one of the most influential festivals in Southeastern Europe region.

Posjetili smo Istanbul Shopping Fest, a i Svjetska turistička organizacija UN-a (UNWTO) pozvala je našeg kolegu Faruka Čaluka na konferenciju o ulozi turizma u miru, pomirenju i razvoju, odnosno na putovanje u živopisnu Šri Lanku! Zanimljive reportaže o tome, intervjui s eminentnim ličnostima, predstavljanje turističkih atrakcija Njemačke, SFF od početka do danas, magične znamenitosti BiH, te još mnoga toga uslijedit će na narednim stranicama.

We enjoyed the Istanbul Shopping Fest. The UN World Tourist Organisation (UNWTO) had invited our colleague, Faruk Čaluk, to the conference on the role of tourism in peace, reconciliation and development, i.e. to the trip to colourful Sri Lanka!

Čitanje može da počne!

The reading may begin!

Further pages will bring you an interesting report on that, as well as interviews with eminent personalities, presentation of tourist attractions of Germany, SFF from the beginnings to now, magical sights in BiH, and much more.

Sponzorirano / Sponsored by:

S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR ADVENTURE

NOVOSTI / NEWS

KONAČNO NA ČUVENOJ LISTI! Šestogodišnji proces kandidovanja urodio je plodom: 30 nekropola stećaka s područja regije upisano je na Listu svjetske kulturne baštine. Od toga se 22 nalaze na teritoriji BiH, po tri na području Srbije i Crne Gore, te dvije u Hrvatskoj. Približno 60.000 stećaka nalazi se u našoj zemlji.

JOŠ JEDAN USPJEH!

ANOTHER SUCCESS!

Luksuzni hotel Mepas iz Mostara dobitnik je priznanja Brand Leader Award 2016, koje mu je dodijeljeno kao lideru u postavljanju novih standarda u kvaliteti, profesionalnosti, inovativnosti i konkurentnosti elitnog turizma jugoistočne Evrope. Ovo značajno priznanje dodjeljuje tržišnim liderima na području Jugoistočne Evrope već 12 godina u Beogradu stručni kolegij kompanije Mass Media International. Ranije ove godine turistički magazin Luxury Travel Guide iz Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva Hotel Mepas proglasio je i za Business Hotel of the Year 2016 za područje Istočne Evrope.

Luxury hotel Mepas from Mostar has been awarded Brand Leader Award 2016, an accolade it has received as a leader in setting new standards in quality, professionalism, innovation and competitiveness in elite tourism of Southeastern Europe. This important recognition is being awarded to market leaders in the Southeastern Europe region for the past 12 years in Belgrade by an expert collegiate body of Mass Media International company. Earlier this year tourist magazine Luxury Travel Guide from the United Kingdom declared Hotel Mepas a Business Hotel of the Year 2016 for Southeastern Europe region.

FINALLY ON THE FAMOUS LIST! The six year – long process of nomination finally bore fruit: 30 medieval tombstone necropolis’ from this region were enlisted in a World Cultural Heritage List. 22 of them are located in BiH territory, three each in territories of Serbia and Montenegro, and two in Croatia. There are approximately 60.000 medieval tombstone in our country.

HOTEL HILLS Hotel Hills, Thermal & Spa Resort Sarajevo, novi je hotel s pet zvjezdica i atraktivnom lokacijom u centru zelene oaze Sarajeva, dva kilometra od aerodroma. Ima 260 luksuznih soba i apartmana prefinjenog komfora, višenamjenski kongresni centar s modernom konferencijskom tehnologijom, termalno kupatilo, unutrašnje i vanjske bazene, adrenalinski park za djecu i odrasle na impresivnih 2200 kvadratnih metara, svadbene salone, nekoliko restorana s internacionalnom i nacionalnom kuhinjom. Najatraktivniji restoran i salon-bar nalazi se na vrhu hotela.

HOTEL HILLS Hotel Hills, Thermal & Spa Resort Sarajevo is a new five-star hotel in an attractive location in the midst of Sarajevo’s green oasis, 2 km from the airport. It has 260 luxury rooms and apartments of sophisticated comfort, a multi-purpose Congress centre with modern conference technology, thermal bath, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, adrenalin park for children and adults on an impressive 2200 square meters, wedding halls, and several restaurants with international and national cuisine. The most attractive restaurant and lounge bar is placed at the top of the hotel. 10

ULOGA TURIZMA U MIRU, POMIRENJU I RAZVOJU “Suočavamo se s deficitom tolerancije. Turizam spaja ljude, otvara naše umove i srca”, rekao je generalni sekretar Svjetske turističke organizacije UN-a, Taleb Rifai, otvarajući konferenciju o temi Turizam: katalizator za razvoj, mir i pomirenje, održanoj u gradu Passikudah u Šri Lanki. Angažman i osnaživanje zajednice, jačanje kapaciteta i obuke, kao i partnerstva između javnog i privatnog sektora, ključni su faktori za unapređenje kulture mira kroz turizam u postkonfliktnim društvima. Učesnici konferencije također su podsjetili na važnost stavljanja turizma u vrh dnevnog reda mira i pomirenja kako bi se osiguralo da sektor može omogućiti razvoj i socijalnu uključenost. UNWTO konferencija održana je u istočnoj provinciji Šri Lanke, gdje je etnički sukob ovaj dio države činio potpuno nedostupnim više od dvije decenije. Od 2009. godine, kada je konačno završen sukob, došlo je do brzog oporavka u turizmu i sada predstavlja oblast u kojoj se dešava puni procvat turizma.

THE ROLE OF TOURISM IN PEACE, RECONCILIATION AND DEVELOPMENT “We are facing a deficit of tolerance. Tourism brings people together, it opens our minds and hearts”, said UNWTO Secretary-General Taleb Rifai, opening the Conference on Tourism, a catalyst for development, peace and reconciliation held in Passikudah, Sri Lanka. Community engagement and empowerment, capacity building and training, and public/private sector partnerships are key factors in advancing a culture of peace through tourism in post-conflict societies. The conference participants also reminded of the importance of placing tourism at the top of the peace and reconciliation agenda, to ensure that the sector can provide development and social inclusion. UNWTO conference was held in Sri Lanka’s Eastern province, where the ethnic conflict made this part of the country inaccessible for more than two decades. Since 2009, when the conflict finally ended, a rapid recovery in tourism took place and now it represents an area where tourism is blossoming. 11

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

SARAJEVO COCA COLA POLUMARATON

HALF Marathon - FULL Experience LOVE & RUN SARAJEVO 18.09.2016. Trčeći Sarajevo Coca Cola polumaraton, koji će okupiti 1500 trkača iz više od 30 zemalja, upoznat ćete sve kulturološke različitosti ovog grada i shvatiti zašto ga zovu mjestom susreta Istoka i Zapada. Sama trasa predstavlja turistički obilazak Sarajeva s mogućnosti punog doživljaja historije i arhitekture, jer ćete u jednom dahu proći kroz samo jezgro grada pored najljepših građevina i simbola Sarajeva: gradske Vijećnice, Baščaršije, Vječne vatre, Zemaljskog muzeja, Kozije ćuprije, sarajevskih mostova, Despića kuće... Istinski doživljaj sporta ponudit će vam i trčanje kruga na Olimpijskom stadionu Koševo, a prirode hladovina lipa dok prolazite Vilsonovim

šetalištem, te ljepota najstarijeg sarajevskog šetališta uz korito Miljacke – popularne Darive. Želite li se okititi medaljom ukrašenom simbolom stećka koji dočarava cijelu BiH, njenu raznolikost, otvorenost, tradiciju, za registraciju posjetite www.sarajevomarathon. ba. Nevelikih 40 KM, koje plaćate prilikom preuzimanja startnog paketa, osigurat će vam učešće u vrhunskom sportskom događaju, čijim dijelom mogu biti svi, cijele porodice, prijatelji, škole, razredi. Iako je Sarajevo poznato po brdima i planinama, staza je pretežno ravna, no uzbudljive uzbrdice i nizbrdice daju joj posebnu draž čineći je dovoljno zahtjevnom da poželite ponovo doći. Više na: www.sarajevomarathon.ba

SARAJEVO COCA COLA HALF MARATHON

HALF Marathon - FULL Experience LOVE & RUN SARAJEVO 18.09.2016.

Running Sarajevo Coca Cola Half Marathon, that will gather 1500 runners from more than 30 countries, you will get to see all cultural differences of this city and understand why they call it a place where the East and the West meet. The route itself represents a sightseeing round of Sarajevo, with an oppor-

tunity to fully experience history and architecture, as you will pass, in one breath, through the core of the city, next to the most beautiful buildings and symbols of Sarajevo: City Hall, Baščaršija, Eternal Flame, National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kozja ćuprija, Sarajevo’s bridges, Despića house... You will get a true experience of sport while running the loop at the Olympic Stadium Koševo, and of nature in the pleasant shade of lime trees as you run through Vilsonovo šetalište (Wilson’s Lane), as well as the beauty of Sarajevo’s oldest walk path by the canyon of river Miljacka – popular Dariva. If you want to

be decorated with a medal ornamented with a symbol of medieval tombstone, which captures the entire BiH, its diversity, openness and tradition, you can register at www.sarajevomarathon.ba. A modest 40 KM, which you pay whilst downloading a start package, will ensure that you are a part of a top sport event, which anybody can join – whole families, friends, schools, classrooms. Although Sarajevo is famous for its hills and mountains, the track is quite flat, but exciting uphills and downhills give it a special charm, making it demanding enough to want to come again.

Find more at: www.sarajevomarathon.ba

Ako volite

vježbati ovo su uređaji koje trebate koristiti

Navigo sistem BH d.o.o. Dalmatinska 4, 71000 Sarajevo tel/fax: +387 33 226 223, mob: +387 62 332 945, www.garminbh.ba Mjerači aktivnosti i pametni satovi1 1

Pogledajte garmin.com/ataccuracy

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

ISTANBUL SHOPPING FEST

PORED TOGA ŠTO JE ISTANBUL POZNAT PO ČUVENOJ KAPALI ČARŠIJI, SVOM EGIPATSKOM BAZARU, ON IMA I 120 TRŽNIH CENTARA U KOJIMA SE NUDE NAJPOZNATIJI SVJETSKI BRENDOVI. KAKO BROJNI OD NJIH IZGLEDAJU, MOGLI SU VIDJETI POSJETIOCI ŠESTOG PO REDU ISTANBUL SHOPPING FESTA, ČIJIM JE DIJELOM NA POZIV UREDA ZA KULTURU AMBASADE REPUBLIKE TURSKE U BIH I ORGANIZATORA FESTIVALA TAKOĐER BILA I EKIPA FURAJ.BA MAGAZINA Piše: Emira AZGANOVIĆ 14

stanbul Shopping Fest osnovan je 2011. godine stavljajući pred sebe zahtjevan zadatak: da učini ovaj veličanstveni grad šoping mekom, kulturnim i zabavnim centrom svijeta. Trideset dana i isto toliko noći period je kada i globalni svjetski brendovi po posebnom popustu postaju dostupni većem broju ljudi. Strani turisti mu teško mogu odoljeti, jer nudi mogućnost kupovine bez plaćanja poreza. Odjeća, nakit i parfemi prodaju se s popustima i do 70%, u ovom periodu povoljne

ANI! BILI SMO POZV su i avionske karte, a dobra zabava zagarantovana je na svakom koraku.

metara) sa 160 radnji. Smješten u srcu Levent distrikta, Kanyon se nalazi pod otvorenim nebom, što ga čini još interesantnijim. I ovdje, logično, najpoznatiji svjetski brendovi imaju svoje radnje.

120 TRŽNIH CENTARA U Istanbulu postoji čak 120 tržnih centara! To je više nego u bilo kojem gradu Evrope ili na Bliskom Istoku. Zato je u posljednjih nekoliko godina ovaj veličanstveni grad postao raj za istinske kupoholičare. I sve je to moguće zahvaljujući jakim institucijama i kompanijama koje ga podržavaju, između ostalih su tu: Ministarstvo za kulturu i turizam Republike Turske, Ministarstvo za razvoj Republike Turske, Gradska općina Istanbula, te aviokompanija Turkish Airlines.

ISTINYE PARK Naše šoping srce zakucalo je najprije u najekskluzivnijem i jednom od najvećih šoping centara u Istanbulu – Istinye Parku. Ovdje se nalaze najpoznatiji i najskuplji svjetski brendovi – Chanel, Hermes, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dior, Jimmy shoes, Dolce&Gabanna... Šoping centar je podijeljen u dva dijela sa stotinama radnji u kojima se nude različiti brendovi kako turski tako i svjetski. Kada se umorite, onda na posebnom spratu

AKASYA Šoping na Nišantašiju Za mnoge je ovaj elitni dio Istanbula ujedno njegov najljepši dio. Boemski, kosmopolitski, Nišantaši predstavlja šoping zonu svih luksuznih brendova. Poznat je po veoma skupim nekretninama, te velikom izboru barova i restorana za večernji izlazak. namijenjenom za restorane i kafiće možete provesti ugodne trenutke predaha. Osim toga, Istinye Park ima i dječiji zabavni kutak, brojne bioskopske sale kao i druge klubove i centre sa zabavnim i rekreativnim sadržajem.

KANYON Mnogi restorani, kafei, barovi očekuju vas u ovom prostranom šoping centru (37.000 kvadratnih

Akasya spaja posjetioce i važne brendove Turske i svijeta. Sa skoro 300 radnji na ogromnom prostoru, ovaj šoping mal daje novi uvid u kulturu zabave i kupovine Istanbula. Ovdje ćete naići na širok izbor trgovačkih marki iz oblasti odjeće, zdravstva, ljepote, kozmetike, obuće, torbi, pribora, uređenja doma... Nudi različite oblike društvenog života, te ima dobar pristup gradskom prevozu. Nalazi se na azijskoj strani grada.

PALLADIUM Svakoga fascinira sa svojom gigantskom staklenom sferom. Njegov arsenal broji 190 radnji u kojima možete kupovati različite brendove i okončati dan s okusima hrane na restoranskom spratu. Upravo u Palladium šoping centru upriličen je završetak Istanbul Shopping Festa uz muzički program i obraćanje direktorice ovog festivala, Hicran Özbük.

ISTINYE PARK

Arasta bazar Ovaj mali bazar nalazi se u blizini Plave džamije. U njemu ćete pronaći fascinantan nakit, živopisnu keramiku, odjeću i ručno tkane tepihe

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

ISTANBUL SHOPPING FEST

AKASYA

last few years this magnificent city has become paradise for true shopaholics. And all of this is made possible by strong institutions and companies that support it, among who are: Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Republic of Turkey, Ministry of Development of Republic of Turkey, Istanbul City Municipality and airline Turkish Airlines.

ISTINYE PARK

ISTANBUL, APART FROM BEING WELL KNOWN FOR ITS FAMOUS GRAND BAZAAR, ITS SPICE BAZAAR, HAS 120 SHOPPING CENTRES WITH TOP GLOBAL BRANDS. VISITORS COULD SEE WHAT MANY OF THEM LOOK LIKE AT THE 6TH ISTANBUL SHOPPING FEST, WHOSE ORGANISERS ALONGSIDE OFFICE OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS OF THE EMBASSY OF REPUBLIC OF TURKEY IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA INVITED THE FURAJ.BA MAGAZINE TEAM

Our shopping hearts first beat hard in the most exclusive and one of the biggest shopping centres in Istanbul – Istinye Park. This is where the most famous and most expensive world brands are KANYON

Written by: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

stanbul Shopping Fest was founded in 2011, facing a demanding task: to make this glorious city a shopping mecca, cultural and entertainment centre of the world. Thirty days and nights is the period when even the global brands give special discounts and become available to a larger number of people. Foreign tourists can hardly resist it, because they offer tax free shopping. Clothes, jewelry and perfumes are being

sold at up to 70% discount, airfares are also affordable in this period, and good fun is guaranteed at every corner.

120 SHOPPING CENTRES There are no less than 120 shopping malls in Istanbul! It is more than in any city in Europe or Middle East. That is why in the

Shopping in Nisantasi For many, this elite part of Istanbul is also its most beautiful part. Bohemian, cosmopolitan, Nisantasi represents a shopping zone for all luxury brands. It is famous for its very expensive real estate and a large number of bars and restaurants for the nights out.

ITED WE WERE INV

Arasta bazaar This small bazaar is located close to the Blue mosque. In it you will find fascinating jewelry, colourful ceramics, clothes and hand woven carpets.

– Chanel, Hermes, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dior, Jimmy shoes, Dolce&Gabanna... Shopping centre is divided in two parts with hundreds of shops which offer various brands, both Turkish and international. When you get tired, you can spend some relaxing moments on a special floor dedicated to restaurants and cafes. Apart from that, Istinye Park has a children’s fun corner, numerous cinema halls and other clubs and centres with fun and recreation content.

KANYON

PALLADIUM

In this vast shopping mall (37.000 square meters) you will find many restaurants, cafes and bars, alongside 160 shops. Located in the heart of Levent district, Kanyon is a mall under the open sky, which makes it even more interesting. Leading world brands, logically, have their shops here too.

public transport. It is located in the Asian side of the city.

AKASYA

PALLADIUM

Akasya connects visitors and important brands of Turkey and the world. With almost 300 shops in a very large area, this shopping mall gives new insight into the culture of fun and shopping of Istanbul. You will find here a wide choice of brands in clothing, health, beauty, cosmetics, footwear, bags, accessories, home interior... It offers different forms of social life and has good access to

It fascinates everybody with its gigantic glass sphere. Its arsenal counts 190 shops in which you can buy various brands and end the day with tasty food on a restaurant floor. This is the shopping centre where the closing of Istanbul Shopping Fest was held, with a music program and address of the director of the festival, Hicran Özbük.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

PRAZNIK U SARAJEVU

A FESTIVITY IN SARAJEVO

SARAJEVO FILM

Photo credits: Sarajevo Film Festvial

U Sarajevu počinje novi Sarajevo Film Festival, 22. po redu radosni događaj koji, složit će se mnogi, glavni grad svake godine učini posebno lijepim i lepršavim. Svako od filmskih ostvarenja ima svoju publiku. I dok se bosanskim ćilimom ispred Narodnog pozorišta obično šetaju javne ličnosti i zvijezde praćene aplauzima sa strana okupljenih simpatizera, Ljetno kino nudi nezaboravno iskustvo gledanja filma pod zvijezdama na najvećem filmskom platnu u regiji. Djelić je to bogate ponude SFF-a, koji će se ove godine održati od 12. do 20. augusta 2016. The city of Sarajevo is getting ready to welcome the 22nd Sarajevo Film Festival. Just as many would agree, this joyful event will make the capital of B&H even more beautiful and spirited. The movies that are to be presented will offer something for any taste. While public figures and celebrities usually show up on the red carpet in front of the National Theatre, Ljetno kino (Open Air Cinema) guarantees an unforgettable experience of watching movies under the stars, on the biggest movie screen in the region. This is just a small portion of the SFF exquisite offer. This year, the SFF will be held from August 12-22. 2016.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SFF

Na krilima želje ZA BOLJIM ŽIVOTOM Počeo je nastajati kada je za to bilo najmanje uslova i uspio izrasti u najveći filmski festival u jugoistočnoj Evropi kao i jedan od značajnijih na cijelom kontinentu. Priča o nastanku Sarajevo Film Festivala seže u vrijeme četverogodišnje opsade Sarajeva. Njenim koncem 1995. Obala Art Centar pokrenuo je festival kako bi dao svoj doprinos stvaranju bolje budućnosti – obnovi civilnog društva i održavanju kosmopolitskog duha glavnog grada BiH. Iako je možda teško povjerovati, ali u opkoljenom gradu tog 27. oktobra 1995. počeo se dizati prvi festival tokom kojeg je u Bosanskom kulturnom centru predstavljeno, prema dostupnim informacijama, 37 filmova iz 15 zemalja. Oko 15.000 gledatelja pokazalo je zainteresovanost za festival, čije su projekcije bile potpuno rasprodane. Sve što se dešavalo bilo je slično kao u izreci američkog glumca

Gregoryja Pecka da teška vremena ne traju, ali jaki ljudi da. Svoje ozbiljne namjere svih narednih godina Sarajevo Film Festival samo je potvrđivao dižući se kvalitetom, osmišljenošću, produkcijom, uvijek iznova na veće nivoe. Tako je u jednom trenutku postao međunarodni filmski festival s posebnim fokusom na regiju Jugoistočne Evrope čineći da filmovi, talenti i budući projekti iz regije dospiju u centar pažnje međunarodne filmske javnosti. Na festivalu se predstavljaju novi filmovi iz cijelog svijeta, dok okosnica programa, kojeg je inače akreditovao FIAPF – International Federation of Film Producers Associations, pruža uvid u najnoviju filmsku produkciju regiona. Sarajevo Film Festival služi kao zajednička platforma za

filmski biznis cijele regije. Mjesto je susreta kako producenata tako i autora ovog dijela Evrope, te je među filmskim profesionalcima širom svijeta poznat kao izuzetno važno mjesto za razmjenu ideja i informacija za sve one koji žele saznati više o mogućnostima naše regije.

SFF

On the wings of desire FOR A BETTER LIFE It began to emerge in the least hopeful of circumstances and managed to grow into the biggest film festival in Southeastern Europe, as well as one of the more important ones in the entire continent

The story of Sarajevo Film Festival inception goes back to the period of 4-year siege of Sarajevo. At the end of the siege in late 1995., Obala Art Centre started the festival to contribute to the making of better future – rehabilitation of civil society and maintainance of cosmopolitan spirit of BiH’s capital city.

Although it may be hard to believe, the first festival commenced in the besieged city on 27 October 1995., during which, according to available information, 37 films from 15 countries were shown in Bosanski kulturni centre (Bosnian Culture Centre). Around 15.000 people showed their appreciation for the festival, and all the shows were completely sold out. All that occurred then resembled the saying of the American actor Gregory Peck, that said: hard times don’t last forever, but strong people do. Sarajevo Film Festival only kept confirming its serious intentions in the years that followed, raising the bar with its quality, deliberation and production, always moving onto the next level. Thus at some point it became an international film festival with special focus on the region

of Southeastern Europe, bringing movies, talents and future projects from the region into the centre of attention of international film public. The festival presents new films from the entire world, while the outline of the program, which is accredited by FIAPF – International Federation of Film Producers Associations, provides insight into the latest film production in the region. Sarajevo Film Festival serves as a joint platform for film business of the whole region. It is a place of encounter for producers, but also authors from this part of Europe, and it is known among the worldwide film professionals as an extremely important place for the exchange of ideas and information for all those who want to know more about the opportunities of our region.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

MIRSAD PURIVATRA, DIREKTOR SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVALA

Srce koje kuca za

SARAJEVO MIRSAD PURIVATRA, ČOVJEK JE KOJEG MOTIVIŠU VRIJEDNI I PROAKTIVNI LJUDI. ONI KOJI OSTAVLJAJU NEŠTO IZA SEBE Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO Foto: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

arajevo Film Festival rezultat je strasti prema filmu i želje da se njime bavimo. Već više od 20 godina tvrdoglavo i uporno idemo ka našem cilju, a to je afirmacija i promocija regionalne kinematografije i regionalnih autora. Svake godine nastojimo biti bolji od prethodne. Osim finansijske strane, veliki nam je problem, i to ponavljam već godinama, nedostatak infrastrukture. Festival je davno prerastao gradsku infrastrukturu, stoga svake godine krećemo iznova gradeći kina i festivalske lokacije”, govori za naš magazin Mirsad Purivatra, prvi čovjek Sarajevo Film Festivala, uoči početka njegovog 22. izdanja.

NAJVEĆA SREĆA U kakvoj atmosferi dočekujete ovogodišnji festival? – Svaki novi festival za nas je novi veliki izazov i uvijek ga – bez obzira na ogroman posao – iščekujemo s nestrpljenjem. Ponosni smo na činjenicu da isto uzbuđenje vlada i kod samih građana Sarajeva s kojima zajedno rastemo već 22 godine. Ta radost iščekivanja početka festivala ono je što nas dodatno motiviše. Šta biste istaknuli kao posebnost Sarajevo Film Festivala? – Ono što naš festival nudi nije samo film, već i susret s onima koji su taj film pravili. Interaktivnost festivala nije nikada bila važnija nego sada. Koncept festivala baziran je upravo na ovom direktnom kontaktu koji ne samo da je važan za publiku, već je i jedno snažno iskustvo za filmske ekipe. Zbog toga se autori vraćaju u Sarajevo, a novi autori žele doći. Postoji li do sada održani Sarajevo Film Festival koji Vam je posebno prirastao srcu? – Oni koji rade sa mnom znaju da je svako izdanje festivala novi

i drugačiji izazov, također muka, ali i najveća moguća sreća za nas. Festival nosi nove avanture, nove izazove, tako da ne mogu izdvojiti jedan kao poseban, jer svih 21 do sada su posebni i značajni na svoj način. No, ako već moram, mislim da je drugi festival 1996. godine bio specijalan zbog otvaranja Open Aira.

JEDINSTVEN OSJEĆAJ GLEDANJA FILMOVA Koliko uspijete pogledati filmova koji pristignu na SFF? – Na samom festivalu zapravo ne pogledam niti jedan fim. Međutim, tokom trajanja selekcije za festivalske programe većinu pogledam, posebno filmove takmičarskih selekcija kao i filmove iz Open Air programa. Koja Vam je najdraža pohvala koju ste dobili svih ovih godina? – Veoma sam sretan što za svoj grad i svoju državu radimo dobru i pozitivnu stvar. Najveća pohvala za nas su reakcije naše publike, činjenica da ljudi planiraju svoje

godišnje odmore prema festivalu i da naša dijaspora dolazi u grad upravo u vrijeme njegovog trajanja. Najsretniji smo zbog činjenice da u gradu pravimo neponovljivu atmosferu, bar tih deset dana u augustu, i što našoj publici pružamo priliku da istinski uživa u dobrom filmskom programu i da osjeti jedinstven osjećaj gledanja filmova. Šta bi, prema Vašem mišljenju, festival trebao značiti Sarajevu? – Utjecaj Sarajevo Film Festivala na razvoj lokalne zajednice i turizam izuzetno je veliki. Sarajevo u tom periodu posjeti veliki broj turista, na ulicama vlada posebna atmosfera, a otvaraju se i velike mogućnosti za privatni biznis, dok tih dana pozitivnu sliku o Sarajevu šire brojni svjetski mediji. Već u fazi pripreme festivala uključuje se veliki broj saradnika, a tokom festivala angažovano je oko 600 zaposlenih i 500 volontera. Za potrebe festivala i popratnih aktivnosti uključi se još jedna armija različitih dobavljača i servisa koji ostvaruju značajne dodatne prihode. Treba pratiti 23

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

samo procenat zauzetosti smještajnih kapaciteta u gradu uoči i za vrijeme festivala. Naš cilj je daljnje razvijanje svijesti o značaju kulture i filmske umjetnosti. Ujedno želimo da još snažnije kreiramo platformu za razvoj filmske i prateće kreativne industrije, što bi ujedno bila i najbolja podrška promociji Sarajeva i cijele države kao jedne od najinteresantnijih turističkih i kulturnih destinacija Jugoistočne Evrope. Manifestacioni turizam jedna je od grana privrede koja se u posljednje vrijeme razvija vrtoglavo na globalnom nivou. Turisti više ne putuju po svijetu da bi vidjeli i fotografisali neki spomenik. Oni putuju da bi stekli novo iskustvo, bili dio nekog kulturnog, religijskog, edukativnog ili sličnog sadržaja. U tom kontekstu Sarajevo sa SFF-om ima zaista šta da ponudi. Za kraj, koliko u prosjeku spavate dok traje festival? – Nedovoljno! Ali ne samo u vrijeme samog održavanja festivala, već mnogo ranije, jer završne pripreme festivala traju mjesec, dva prije početka i već tada počinje vrijeme nespavanja, sastanaka, razgovora s timom kolega u svako doba noći. Ali, mislim da smo se već svi navikli na taj ritam.

HIGHLIGHT OVOGODIŠNJEG FESTIVALA Uz odličnu selekciju filmova takmičarskog programa, SFF ove godine pokreće dva nova projekta vezana za unapređenje produkcije i koprodukcije, platformu za razvoj čitave audio-vizuelne produkcije u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. “Jedan od njih je CineLink Drama, projekat osmišljen kao odgovor na rastući evropski i svjetski trend proizvodnje televizijskih sadržaja nastalih ukrštanjem vrhunske filmske produkcije i televizijskih serijala visokog kvaliteta, takozvane filmo-televizije. Na jednom mjestu će okupiti autore, producente i finansijere iz regije i svijeta sa željom da doprinesemo proizvodnji i promociji kvalitetnih TV serija na području bivše Jugoslavije po ugledu na popularne američke i skandinavske produkcije. Drugi projekat nazvan je Suočavanje s prošlošću. Sarajevo je grad koji ima pravo i zadatak da pokreće teme s kojima se još uvijek nismo suočili i koje bi mogle da posluže kao inspiracija filmskim autorima. U okviru projekta prikupljene su priče, svjedočenja, dokumenti o proteklom periodu u bivšoj Jugoslaviji i služit će kao otvoreni izvor ideja za stručnjake i profesionalce koji su u stanju da ih transformišu koristeći se filmskim jezikom na način da doprinesu promociji izgradnje mira – kako u našoj regiji tako i širom svijeta. Svjedočanstva će biti predstavljena na True Stories Marketu u okviru CineLink Industry Days.”

MIRSAD PURIVATRA, SFF DIRECTOR

THE HEART BEATING FOR SARAJEVO MIRSAD PURIVATRA IS A MAN INSPIRED BY HARD WORKING AND PROACTIVE PEOPLE COMMITTED TO MAKING A DIFFERENCE AND A LASTING IMPRESSION Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO Photo by:Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

arajevo Film Festival was a child of our passion for film and our desire to focus on it professionally. Our journey of over 20 years of stubborn persistence still moves us closer to our goal – affirmation and promotion of regional cinematography and regional filmmakers. Year after year, we are trying to surpass the results we accomplished previously. In addition to funding gaps, another big problem that I keep talking about is the lack of infrastructure. The Festival has long outgrown the available city infrastructure, so each year we start afresh, building screening venues and festival locations, says Mirsad Purivatra, the man behind the Sarajevo Film Festival, on the eve of Festival’s 22ndrun.

A JOY BEYOND COMPARISON What can you tell us about the atmosphere as you are waiting to open this year’s Festival? – Each new Festival is a big new challenge for us and regardless of the huge work that needs to be done to put everything in place, we are always extremely excited about it. We take particular pride in the fact that, after 22 years, the citizens of Sarajevo are just as excited as we are. The excitement about the Festival opening is what drives us even more. What would you highlight as a particular feature of Sarajevo Film Festival? – What our Festival offers transcends the film itself. It offers opportunities to meet the filmmakers. Interactivity of the Festival has never been as important as it is today. The concept of the Festival rests upon the direct contact, which is vitally important for the audience and fans, but also potent learning experience for film 26

crews. That is why the filmmakers who presented their work in the past keep coming back to Sarajevo and new ones are eager to come. Is there an edition of Sarajevo Film Festival that you are particularly fond of? – People who work with me know that each Festival run presents a new and different challenge, but also a joy beyond comparison. The Festival brings new adventures and new challenges and I find it hard to pick a favourite since the 21 Festivals that preceded this one were all special and important in their own right. However, if I had to pick one, I would say that it was the second festival,

which took place in 1996, when we introduced Open Air Cinema.

UNIQUE FILM EXPERIENCE How many films do you manage to watch during the SFF? – Truth to be told, I do not watch films during the Festival. However, during the course of selection of the material for festival programmes, I watch most films, especially the competing titles and titles included in the Open Air programme. In all these years, which compliment made the strongest impression on you?

– It makes me very happy that we are able to do something good and positive for our city and our country. For me, the most precious compliment is reflected in the reaction of our audience, the fact that people are considering the festival timetable as they plan their vacation and that our citizens who live abroad plan their visits so that they coincide with the Festival. What makes us particularly happy is that what we are doing creates a festive atmosphere in the town, at least during those ten days in August, when our audience is presented with the opportunity to be exposed to extraordinary films and enjoy watching them.

What significance should the Festival have for Sarajevo, in your view? –Sarajevo Film Festival has huge impact on local community development and tourism. Huge crowds of tourists pour into town, creating a unique, vibrant atmosphere. Businesses thrive and countless media broadcasts affirm the positive image of Sarajevo worldwide. In early stages, as we prepare for the Festival, large number of associates is mobilised. During the course of the Festival, we have about 600 staff members, in addition to 500 volunteers. A host of suppliers and service providers is used for countless festival-related activities.

The occupancy of accommodation facilities during the course of the Festival speaks for itself. Our aim is to raise awareness of importance of culture and film art. At the same time, we want to create an even stronger platform for development of film and creative industry, which would be the best impetus for promotion of the country and its capital - Sarajevo as one of the most fascinating tourist and cultural destinations in the South East Europe. Event tourism has become an important element of the economy, marking dramatic global growth as of lately. Tourists no longer travel just to see an important monument and take picture of it. They travel in pursuit of new experiences or to be a part of a cultural, religious or educational event. To that end, Sarajevo and its SFF have plenty to offer. How much sleep do you get during the course of the Festival? – Not enough! It all starts well before the Festival opens. Final preparations for the Festival start a month or even two months before the opening, bringing the period of no sleep, coupled with countless meetings and discussions with the team of colleagues at any hour, day or night. However, I believe that such mode of operation has become a second nature to most of us.

HIGHLIGHT OF THIS YEAR’S FESTIVAL In addition to great film titles in the competition programme, SFF shall also initiate two new projects focusing on promotion of production and co-production, with the view of creating a platform for development of audio-visual production on the territory of the former Yugoslavia. “One of these projects, under the title: CineLinkDrama,is conceived to respond to the growing European and global trend of production of television shows resulting from an amalgam of superb film production and high-quality television series, the so-called “film-television”. It will bring together filmmakers, producers and sponsors from the region and the world with the view of contributing to production and promotion of high-quality TV shows on the territory of the former Yugoslavia, following the model of popular American and Scandinavian productions. The second project is titled: Facing the Past. Sarajevo has the right and responsibility to open the topics we have not yet faced, which could serve as an inspiration for filmmakers. As a part of this project, countless accounts and testimonies have been collected about the past period that transpired in the former Yugoslavia. These will serve as an open source of ideals for experts and professionals capable of transforming them using the language of the film,thus contributing to peace building, both in our region and beyond. These testimonies will be presented at the True Stories Marketas a part of CineLink Industry Days.”

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

a j i l o r a c a k s m Fil

2016.

KAKO ULOGU DOMAĆINA SVEČANE CEREMONIJE OTVARANJA SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL TRADICIONALNO PREPUŠTA USPJEŠNIM BH. GLUMCIMA MLAĐE GENERACIJE, ODLUČENO JE DA OVOGA PUTA TO BUDE ALENA DŽEBO, KOJA ĆE U PETAK, 12. AUGUSTA, U NARODNOM POZORIŠTU SARAJEVO IMATI ČAST DA OZVANIČI POČETAK 22. IZDANJA FESTIVALA

Takmičarski program – IGRANI FILM 2016. Program će predstaviti jedanaest filmova od kojih će se osam boriti za nagrade Srce Sarajeva, dok će tri (dva omnibusa i jedan igrani film) biti prikazani izvan konkurencije. Svjetske premijere doživjet će filmovi Igla ispod praga kao i Sljedbenica. Međunarodna premijera rezervisana je za jedan film – Livada, kojeg je režirao Cemil Ağacıkoğlu, dok će u kategoriji regionalnih premijera biti prikazani filmovi Album, Bezbožnica, Psi Srca s ožiljkom i Vlažnost. Izvan konkurencije su: Svi sjeverni gradovi, Transmania i U istom vrtu. Žiri igranog filma • Elia Suleiman, palestinski reditelj u ulozi predsjednika žirija • Zeynep Atakan, turska producentica • Nikola Đuričko, srbijanski glumac • Thomas Hailer, kurator Međunarodnog filmskog festivala u Berlinu • Angeliki Papoulia, grčka glumica

Takmičarski program

Photo credits: Sarajevo Film Festvial

– KRATKI FILM 2016. Sarajevo Film Festival s ovim programom nastavlja prepoznavati važnu ulogu koju kratki film ima u razvoju filmske umjetnosti. Tako će ove godine svjetsku premijeru imati mađarski film Šepaj ovako, međunarodnu premijeru makedonski film Djevojka koja pada, te rumunski film Zovem se Costin. Regionalne premijere planirane su za filmove: 4:15 poslijepodne, smak svijeta, Cosmorama, Limbo, Lisica, Superbia, Tranzicija i Zvir.

Takmičarski program – DOKUMENTARNI FILM 2016. Program se sastoji od 21 filma koji se bave različitim temama – pitanjima ličnog i nacionalnog identiteta, migracije, socijalne 29

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

pravde, porodičnih tajni, političkih misterija kao i ekonomskih kriza. Svjetske premijere imat će slovenski film Granice, kojeg je režirao Damjan Kozole, te bh. filmovi Scream for me Sarajevo Tarika Hodžića, Srce od drveta Namika Kabila, te Svetlana Pere Pavlovića. Među filmovima za koje su rezervisani termini međunarodnih premijera su Baglar, Bubnjevi otpora, Tamo dole, Iza lica zrcala...

U fokusu 2016.

Nikola Đuričko

film U društvu vjernika, reditelja Mohammeda Ali Naqvia i Hemala Trivedia.

Program predstavlja snažan uvid u teme koje opsjedaju naše evropsko društvo, te niz sjajnih filmova reditelja od kojih su neki debitanti, a neki već iskusni i priznati veterani filmske umjetnosti. Očekuju vas Mahnitost, Matura, Noćni život, Prekid, S one strane, Sieranevada, te Smrt u Sarajevu bh. Oscarovca Danisa Tanovića.

Talents Sarajevo 2016.

Summer Screen 2016

Angeliki Papoulia

Deseti, jubilarni Talents Sarajevo održat će se od 14. do 20. augusta 2016. Otvorit će ga meksički reditelj, scenarista i producent Amat Escalante s kojim će se susresti 71 perspektivni glumac, reditelj, direktor fotografije, filmski kritičar, producent i scenarista iz Jugoistočne Evrope i Južnog Kavkaza.

Naj fotka 22. Sarajevo Film Festivala Stephen Frears

Dan ljudskih prava 2016. U saradnji s Ambasadom Švicarske u BiH i Saveznim ministarstvom vanjskih poslova Švicarske, već osmu godinu zaredom Sarajevo Film Festival bit će domaćin Dana ljudskih prava, 16. augusta. Tema ovogodišnjeg panela glasi: Da li se kroz obrazovanje možemo boriti protiv nasilnog ekstremizma? U kinu Meeting Point bit će prikazan 30

Program Summer Screen 22. Sarajevo Film Festivala donosi niz inspirativnih naslova fokusiranih na muziku, pop kulturu i slobodno razmišljanje, a posjetioci će uživati u udobnim ležaljkama i piknik atmosferi. Ovdje se pojavljuju sljedeći filmovi: Sonita, Izbjeglički bluz, Opsada, Crvena kornjača, Gimme Danger – Iggy Pop & The Stooges...

DOBITNIK POČASNOG SRCA SARAJEVA Stephenu Frearsu, jednom od najistaknutijih i najprovokativnijih britanskih reditelja današnjice, bit će uručeno Počasno Srce Sarajeva 22. za izvanredan doprinos filmskoj umjetnosti.

Autor najbolje fotografije 22. Sarajevo Film Festivala, koja prenosi atmosferu s bilo koje festivalske lokacije, bit će nagrađen Smart fitness narukvicom. Fotografije šaljite na najfotka@sff. ba u periodu od 12. do 20. augusta, a ako ste korisnik Instagrama, objavite ih uz obavezne hashtagove: #najfotkaSFF i #22ndSFF. U nagradnoj igri mogu učestvovati svi koji svoje fotoaparate, telefone, tablete i druge uređaje rado koriste kako bi od zaborava sačuvali interesantne trenutke.

c i g a M e i v o M 6 201

TO HOST THE OPENING CEREMONY, SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL TRADITIONALLY CHOOSES SUCCESSFUL BH. ACTORS OF YOUNGER GENERATION, AND IT WAS DECIDED THAT THIS TIME IT IS ALENA DŽEBO WHO WILL, ON FRIDAY 12 AUGUST 2016, IN SARAJEVO NATIONAL THEATRE, HAVE THE HONOUR TO OFFICIALLY MARK THE BEGINNING OF THE 22ND FESTIVAL

Competition programme – FEATURE FILM 2016. The programme will present eleven films, of which eight will be competing for the awards Heart of Sarajevo, while three (two omnibus and one feature film) will be shown out of competition. Films The Black Pin and A Decent Woman will have their world premieres. International premiere is reserved for one film – The Field, directed by Cemil Ağacıkoğlu, while in the category

of regional premieres the films Album, Godless, Dogs, Scarred Hearts and Humidity will be shown. Out of competition are films: All the Cities of the North, Transmania and In the Same Garden. Feature Film Jury • Elia Suleiman, Palestinian director as president of the jury • Zeynep Atakan, Turkish producer • Nikola Đuričko, Serbian actor • Thomas Hailer, curator of International Film Festival in Berlin • Angeliki Papoulia, Greek actress

Competition programe – SHORT FILM 2016 Sarajevo Film Festival continues with this programme to recognise the important role that short film has in the development of film art. Thus, this year the Hungarian film Limp Like That will have a world premiere, international premiere will be held for the Macedonian film The Falling Girl and the Romanian film My Name Is Costin. Regional premieres are planned for films: 4:15 P.M. The End of the World, Cosmorama, Limbo, Fox, Superbia, Transition and The Beast.

THE HONORARY HEART OF SARAJEVO RECIPIENT Stephen Frears, one of the most distinguished and most provocative British directors of today will receive the Honorary Heart of Sarajevo of the 22. Sarajevo Film Festival for the outstanding contribution to film art 31

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA with whom 71 perspective actors, directors, photography directors, film critics, producers and screen writers from Souteastern Europe and Southern Caucasus will meet.

Competition programme – DOCUMENTARY FILM 2016. Programme consists of 21 films which deal with different subject matters – questions of personal and national identity, migration, social justice, family secrets, political misteries and economic crisis. World premieres will be held for Slovenian film Borders, directed by Damjan Kozole, and bh. films Scream for me Sarajevo by Tarik Hodžić, The Heart of Wood by Namik Kabil, and Svetlana by Pero Pavlović. Among films set for international premieres are Baglar, Drums of Resistance, Down There, A Two Way Mirror...

Human Rights Day 2016.

Zeynep Atakan

Sarajevo Film Festival will host the Human Rights Day organised in cooperation with the Embassy of Switzerland and the Swiss Federal Department of Foreign Affairs, eighth year in a row, on 16 August. The topic of this year’s panel is: Can we fight violent extremism through education? Cinema Meeting Point will present a film In Company of Believers, by directors Mohammed Ali Naqvi and Hemal Trivedi

In focus 2016.

Summer Screen 2016

Programme presents a strong insight into topics which obssess our European society and a number of excellent films by directors of whom some are debutants, and some are already experienced and acknowledged veterans of film art. You can expect films Frenzy, Graduation, Nightlife, Interruption, On the Other Side, Sieranevada, and Death in Sarajevo by bh. Oscar winner, Danis Tanović.

Programme Summer Screen of the 22. Sarajevo Film Festival brings a number of inspirational titles focused on music, pop culture and free thinking, and the visitors will enjoy themselves in comfortable deck chairs and picnic atmosphere. The following films will be shown: Sonita, Refugee Blues, The Siege, The Red Turtle, Gimme Danger – Iggy Pop & The Stooges...

Thomas Hailer

Best Photo of the 22. Sarajevo Film Festival

Talents Sarajevo 2016. Tenth, jubilee Talents Sarajevo will be held from 14. to 20. August 2016. It will be opened by Mexican director, screen writer and producer Amat Escalante

Festivalski trg / Festival Square

Elia Suleiman

The author of the best photograph of the 22. Sarajevo Film Festival, that shows the atmosphere from any Festival location will be rewarded with Smart fitness bracelet. Send your photographs to najfotka@sff. ba between August 12 and 20, and if you are Instagram user, post them with obligatory hashtags: #najfotkaSFF and #22ndSFF. All who like to use their cameras, telephones, tablets and other devices to keep the interesting moments safe from oblivion, can participate in the prize competition.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

MOAMER KASUMOVIĆ, GLUMAC

Sjajni momak

OD MOMENTA POJAVLJIVANJA NA JAVNOJ SCENI NIJE DUGO TREBALO PROĆI DA SE UPIŠE U NAJPREPOZNATLJIVIJE GLUMCE BIH. NO, OSIM ŠTO JE MOAMER KASUMOVIĆ DOBAR GLUMAC, ON JE TAKOĐER DOBAR SIN I DOBAR BRAT Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO Foto:Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

ledajući ga godinama uz Mustafu Nadarevića i Senada Bašića u humorističnoj seriji Lud, zbunjen, normalan, bilo je samo pitanje vremena kada će svoju energiju dinamike i sklada odlučiti utkati u vlastiti projekat. Tako je nastala aktuelna predstava Sjajni momci, koja je do suza uspjela nasmijati publiku.

godinama. Šta posebno cijenite kod Vaših starijih kolega i kako ih općenito doživljavate?

BRIŽNI LJUDI, VELIKI GLUMCI

Kako funkcioniše Vaš glumački trijumvirat?

Koliko je zaista teško postići takav osjećaj simpatije kod publike? – Komedija je najteži žanr za raditi. Nikada ne znate kako će publika da reaguje. Međutim, ako imate dobar tekst i dobre glumce onda je uspjeh pola – pola. Komedija, naročito u pozorištu, jako je živa. Ona diše s publikom i tokom igranja se dotjeruje. Koji je Vama lično najbolji dio predstave? – Vjerovatno nije najbolji, ali najdraži mi je kraj predstave kada naši likovi shvate da su osuđeni jedni na druge i nakon svega ipak ostaju zajedno. Prava komedija u našem društvu desi se tek s vremena na vrijeme. U čemu je problem? – Upravo u tome što je težak žanr. Stoga se niko lako ne upušta u komediju. Više faktora je potrebno da se podudara kako bi ona uspjela. Ljudi komediju obično shvataju kao zabavljački teatar, međutim nije tako, ona je tu da opominje i da na sebi svojstven način ukazuje na probleme u društvu. Upravo možda iz tog razloga pozorišta u Sarajevu mogu se pohvaliti s dobrim repertoarom u kome je komedija poprilično zastupljena, što na neki način odražava stanje u društvu. S Mustafom Nadarevićem i Senadom Bašićem sarađujete već

– Prvenstveno kao prijatelje. Naša dugogodišnja saradnja prerasla je iz kolegijalnog u prijateljski odnos. Oni su veoma brižni ljudi, veliki glumci, koji su nesebični i svoje znanje dijele s mlađim kolegama.

– Na prijateljskoj osnovi, razumijevanju i uvažavanju. Kada s nekim radite toliko godina, dešava se među glumcima da dođe do nekih razmirica, ali kod nas trojice to nije slučaj. Nikada nije bilo mrkog pogleda, a kamoli povišene riječi. Serija Lud, zbunjen, normalan lansirala Vas je u bh. glumačke zvijezde. Koji je Vama kao mladom glumcu bio najveći stres koji ste morali savladati na početku snimanja? – Naučiti da se nosim s tom mašinerijom koja se zove TV. Kada smo počinjali snimanje, falilo mi je nešto što se u žargonu kaže “utakmice u nogama”. Ali, s vremenom, i, naravno, uz pomoć Senada, Mustafe i Elmira to sam brzo prevazišao. S kakvim zahtijevima ulazite danas u nove projekte? – Što glumac više i, naravno, kvalitetnije radi lakše bira i pristaje na projekte. Ne mislim da su naši glumci zahtjevni, iako sam primijetio da nas ljudi upoređuju s holivudskim glumcima, što nikako ne stoji. Svako od nas zahtijeva neke osnovne uslove kako bi rad na predstavi, filmu ili seriji bio što lakši.

UNIVERZALNI JEZIK FILMA Uskoro počinje Sarajevo Film Festival za koji ste bili i poslovno vezani. Kako ga lično doživljavate?

– Radio sam nekoliko godina na SFF-u kao koordinator takmičarskog programa uz selektoricu Elmu Tataragić. Tu sam stekao jedno novo iskustvo i naučio mnogo o filmskoj industriji. SFF je velika i veoma bitna svar, ne samo za grad i državu, već za bh. umjetnike uopće. Postao je jaka platforma za promociju bh. filmova i filmskih radnika. Činjenica da postoji više od 20 godina govori dovoljno sama za sebe. Kakve Vas projekcije obično privuku? – Volim da vidim filmove koje čovjek nema priliku da gleda na velikom platnu. Filmove koji ne dolaze standardnom distribucijom u kino sale. Obično su to priče koje pripadaju drugim državama i mentalitetima o kojima možda ne znam najviše. Na taj način prija mi da učim o drugima i drugačijima. 35

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Također, da kroz univerzalni jezik filma slušam priče koje su lokalne, ali u kojima se isto tako može prepoznati svako bez obzira odakle dolazio. Prošle godine svrstavani ste u kategoriju najbolje obučenih muškarca na festivalu. Kako birate svoje outfite? – Pa, sad, mislim da ima ljudi koji se puno bolje oblače. Nemam neki metod pri odabiru. Obično tražim garderobu koju umijem da nosim i u kojoj se osjećam ugodno.

PORODIČNA SREĆA Davno ste došli iz Bijelog Polja u Sarajevo. Šta Vas sve veže za rodno mjesto i kako obično ljudi reaguju na Vas kada odete tamo?

– Prvenstveno roditelji. Oni su moja uzdanica. A ljudi su već navikli da sam glumac i veoma su ponosni na tu činjenicu. U Bijelo Polje uvijek idem da se odmorim, da budem samo Moamer, a ne glumac.

nas su toliko radili i ulagali u nas da je sada vrijeme da oni uživaju a da djeca brinu o njima. Naši roditelji su najsretniji kada se svi zajedno okupimo.

Postoje li situacije u kojima Vam obično zasmeta status javne ličnosti?

Vaša najmlađa sestra Rejhana se vjerila. Kako se kao stariji brat osjećate kada vidite da je Vaša mezimica sada velika djevojka?

– To se dešava kada ljudi nemaju obzira. Razumijem da smo mi njima svaki dan u kući na neki način i da im je drago kada nas vide. Ali, i mi volimo da imamo svojih pet minuta privatnosti, kada smo s porodicom ili prijateljima. Uvijek ste i Vi i Vaše sestre uživali neizmjernu podršku roditelja. Pronalazite li adekvatne načine da im uzvratite? – Apsolutno! Mislim da je to i neki logičan slijed događaja. Za

– Ptić je odrastao i polako je vrijeme da odleti iz gnijezda. Naravno, postoje emocije, jer smo izuzetno vezani. Ali to je njen život koji gradi i nadam se da će biti sretna zajedno s Makom. Kakve uloge priželjkujete u budućnosti? – Inspirativne i poučne uloge, koje će mene i publiku oplemeniti.

MOAMER KASUMOVIĆ, ACTOR

A GREAT

GUY Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO

FROM THE MOMENT HE ENTERED THE PUBLIC ARENA, IT DIDN’T TAKE LONG FOR HIM TO BECOME ONE OF THE MOST RECOGNISABLE ACTORS IN BIH. BUT, APART FROM BEING A GOOD ACTOR, MOAMER KASUMOVIĆ IS ALSO A GOOD SON AND A GOOD BROTHER

Photo by: Irfan REDŽOVIĆ

atching him for years alongside Mustafa Nadarević and Senad Bašić in a comedy TV series Lud, zbunjen, normalan (Crazy, confused, normal), it was only a matter of time before he decided to use his energy of dynamism and harmony, and weave it into his own project. That’s how the current play Great Guys came about, which made the audience laugh so hard, that they cried.

CARING PEOPLE, BIG ACTORS How hard is it really to achieve such an emphatic feeling from the audience? – Comedy is the hardest genre to do. You never know how the audience will react. However, if you have a good script and good actors, then the success is half and half. Comedy, especially in theatre, is very much alive. It breathes with the audience and it preens itself during the performance.

A true comedy only occurs in our society from time to time. What is the problem? – Precisely because it is a hard genre. That’s why nobody gets into it lightly. Several factors need to be aligned for it to work. People often see comedy as an entertainment theatre, but it is not so, it is there to remind of, and in its own special way highlight the problems in the society. This is specifically the reason why theatres in Sarajevo have good repertoires in which comedy is fairly well represented, which in a way reflects the state of the society. You have been collaborating with Mustafa Nadarević and Senad Bašić for years. What do you appreciate the most about your older colleagues and what is your general impression of them? – Primarily they’re friends. Our long-term cooperation moved from being a collegial to friendly relationship. They are very caring people, great actors, who are selfless and share their knowledge with younger colleagues. How is your acting triumvirate working? – On friendly basis, understanding and respect. When you work with somebody for so many years, some dissensions occur among actors, but it’s not the case with the three of us. There was never a scowling face, let alone a heightened tone of voice.

Which part of the play is the best to you personally?

TV series Lud, zbunjen, normalan launched you into bh. acting stars. As a young actor, what was the most stressful bit that you had to overcome at the beginning of shooting?

– It is probably not the best, but my favourite part is the end of the play when our protagonists realise that they are condemned to one another and they stay together after all.

– To learn to handle the machinery called television. When we started the shooting, I was lacking the experience of what you would call „playing the field”. But, with 37

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

time, and, of course, with the help of Senad, Mustafa and Elmir, I overcame that quickly. With what demands do you enter new projects today? – The more the actor works, and the better he gets, the easier it becomes to choose and accept projects. I don’t think that our actors are demanding, although I’ve noticed that people compare us with Hollywood actors, which is simply not on. Each one of us demands some basic conditions so that the work on the play, film or TV show would be as easy as possible.

pleases me to learn that way about others and otherness. Also, to use the universal language of film to listen to stories which are local, but in which everybody can see themselves regardless of where they are from. Last year you were included in the best dressed men category at the festival. How do you choose your outfits? – Well, to be honest, I think there are better dressed people around. I don’t have a method by which I choose the outfit.

– I like to watch movies which you are normally not able to watch on the big screen. Films which do not arrive to cinema halls via standard distribution. They are usually stories which belong to other countries and mentalities which I perhaps am not well informed of. It 38

– It happens when people are incosiderate. I understand that we are in their homes everyday in a way and that they are happy to see us. But we also like to have our five minutes of privacy, when we are with family or friends.

– Absolutely! I think that it is a logical course of events. They did so much for us and invested in us, that it is now the time for them to enjoy and for us the kids to take care of them. Our parents are the happiest when we all gather together.

Sarajevo Film Festival is starting soon, and you used to have work relations with it. What is your personal experience of it?

What kind of movies are you attracted to?

Are there situations in which being a public person bothers you?

You and your sister always had a huge support from your parents. Do you find adequate ways to pay them back?

UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE OF FILM

– I worked for several years as SFF’s coordinator of competition programme alongside the selector, Elma Tataragić. There I gained a new experience and learned a lot about film industry. SFF is a big and very important thing, not just for the city and the country, but for bh. artists generally. It has become a strong platform for the promotion of bh. movies and film workers. The fact that it exists for over 20 years speaks for itself.

already used to the fact that I am an actor and they are very proud of it. I always go to Bijelo Polje to rest, to be just Moamer, not an actor.

Your youngest sister Rejhana got engaged. As an older brother, how do you feel when you realise that your pet sister is now a big girl?

Usually I look for clothes that I can wear and that make me feel comfortable.

FAMILY HAPPINESS You came from Bijelo Polje to Sarajevo long time ago. What binds you to your birthplace and how do people normally react to you when you go there? – Primarily my parents. They are my anchor. And the people are

– A fledgeling is all grown up and the time is coming for it to leave the nest. Of course, there are emotions, because we are extremely close. But it is her life that she is building and I hope that she will be happy with Mak. What roles are you hoping for in the future? – Inspirational and educational ones, that will ennoble me and the audience.

Member of HAAD Groups by Adnan HajrulahoviÄ&#x2021; Haad

IMPORTANNE CENTAR SARAJEVO 033 20 98 16, haad@haad.ba

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

GOSTI FESTIVALA

Poznati na

Sarajevo Film Festivalu BILO IH JE MNOGO, NO NEKIH IMENA, POSEBNO ONIH KOJA SU U INDUSTRIJI FILMA OSTAVILI NEIZBRISIV TRAG, VRIJEDI SE UVIJEK PRISJETITI

efintivno najveće zvijezde Sarajevo Film Festivala bili su slavni glumački par Angelina Jolie i Brad Pitt. Oni su bili specijalni gosti 17. po redu festivala kada je popularnoj Angelini, koju je domaća publika posebno zavoljela zbog njenog potresnog filma o BiH nazvanog U zemlji krvi i meda, dodijeljena specijalna nagrada – Počasno Srce Sarajeva u Narodnom pozorištu. I Benicio Del Toro prošetao je crvenim tepihom festivala, dobitnik Počasnog Srca Sarajeva 21. Sarajevo Film Festivala za izvanredan doprinos filmskoj umjetnosti. Oscarom nagrađeni glumac sarajevskoj je publici predstavio dramu Fernanda Leóna de Aranoe Savršen dan u kojoj je nastupio u glavnoj ulozi. Počastvovan dolaskom u glavni grad BiH kao i na festival, rekao je tada između ostalog: “Srce Sarajeva za mene znači hrabrost, predanost, inkluziju i odlučnost da se istraje u zacrtanim ciljevima.” Među dobitnicima najprestižnije festivalske nagrade našli su se između ostalog i Gael Garcia Bernal, Steve Buscemi, međunarodno proslavljeni, višestruko nagrađivani reditelji Jafar Panahi, Mike Leigh, Béla Tarr i Danis Tanović. I dvostruki dobitnik Oscara, Kevin Spacey, dolaskom na Sarajevo

Film Festival izazvao je nezaboravne ovacije među okupljenim ljubiteljima filma. U čast gostu 14. SFF-a održana je posebna projekcija kultnog filma Privedite osumnjičene, reditelja Bryana Singera, za koji je ovaj iznimni glumac dobio prvog Oscara. Oskarovac Morgan Freeman pamti se kao prestižni gost 16. Sarajevo Film Festivala. Film Invictus, u kojem je glumio Nelsona Mandelu, zatvorio je tadašnje izdanje festivala. Koliko je značajnih ljudi bilo na Sarajevo Film Festivalu nemoguće je obuhvatiti jednim kratkim osvrtom, no između ostalih su posebnu pažnju plijenili francuska glumica Juliette Binoche, Gillian Anderson, široj javnosti najviše poznata kao agentica Dana Scully u kultnoj naučno-fantastičnoj seriji Dosjei X, eminentna glumica Charlotte Rampling boraveći u ulozi kustosice Katrin Cartlidge Fondacije, koja je publici predstavila i film Melancholia Larsa von Triera u čijoj je apokaliptičnoj drami glumila Gaby, a tu su također Victoria Abril, Fatih Akin, Pablo Berger, Michael Fassbender, Vanessa Redgrave, John Malkovich, Michael Moore...

Photo credits: Sarajevo Film Festvial

(1) Angelina Jolie i Brad Pitt, specijalni gosti 17. SFF-a. / Angelina Jolie i Brad Pitt, special guests of 17th SFF; (2) Gillian Anderson,poznata kao agentica Dana Scully u kultnoj naučno-fantastičnoj seriji Dosjei X / Gillian Anderson known for her role of agent Dana Scully in the cult science-fiction series X-files; (3) Slavni američki glumac Steve Buscemi / Steve Buscemi a famous american actor. (4) Kevin Spacey, dvostruki dobitnik Oscara / Double Oscar winner, Kevin Spacey

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

PAST GUESTS OF THE FESTIVAL

CELEBRITIES AT

Sarajevo Film Festival MANY WORLD CELEBRITIES ATTENDED THE SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL. HOWEVER, SOME, ESPECIALLY THE ONES WHO HAD GIVEN A SIGNIFICANT CONTRIBUTION TO THE FILM INDUSTRY, WILL BE REMEMBERED FOREVER

he famous acting couple, Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt, were undoubtedly the major stars that ever appeared on Sarajevo Film Festival. They were the special guests of the 17th Festival, and attended the ceremony when the popular Angelina received the Honorary Heart of Sarajevo in the National Theatre. This actress also won the hearts of domestic audience, creating a touching movie about 42

B&H named In the Land of Blood and Honey. Benicio del Toro took a walk on the Red Carpet during the 21st SFF, and ended up winning the Honorary Heart of Sarajevo for an outstanding contribution to film industry. This Oscar winning actor presented the movie directed by Fernand Leon de Aranoa - A Perfect Day, where he played the leading role. Honoured to be in Sarajevo and part of the Festival, he shared

Photo credits: Sarajevo Film Festvial

(5) Oskarovac Morgan Freeman pamti se kao prestižni gost 16. Sarajevo Film Festivala / Oscar winning actor, Morgan Freemen, was the prestigious guest of the 16th Sarajevo Film Festival; (6) Oskarovac Benicio Del Toro, dobitnik počasnog Srca Sarajeva / Oscar winner Benicio Del Toro, recipient of Heart of Sarajevo Award; (7) Poznata Francuska glumica Juliette Binoche / Famous French actress Juliette Binoche

his feelings about the award: “For me, the Heart of Sarajevo means courage, commitment, inclusion and determination in achieving our goals.” Among the winners of the most prestigious film prize were, in addition, Gael Garcia Bernal, Steve Buscemi, and multple award winning directors Jafar Panahi, Mike Leigh, Bela Tarr and Danis Tanovic. Double Oscar winner, Kevin Spacey, was welcomed with the great ovations of movie enthusiasts as he appeared in Sarajevo during the Festival. In his honour, the organizers of the 14th SFF held up a special projection of the movie that brought him his first Oscar – The Usual Suspects, directed by Brian Singer. Another famous Oscar winning actor, Morgan Freemen, was the prestigious guest of the 16th Sarajevo Film Festival. The movie

Invictus, where he played the role of Nelson Mandela, was presented at the closure of the SFF that year. It is practically impossible to encompass all the great persons that were part of Sarajevo Film Festival in just one short text. Amongst others, a particular attention was drawn by: French actress Juliette Binoche; Gillian Anderson, known for her role of agent Dana Scully in the cult science-fiction series X-files; and the eminent actress Charlotte Rampling, a representative of Katrin Cartlidge Foundation, who presented the apocalyptic drama of Lars von Trier, Melancholia, where she played the role of Gaby. Other celebrities who showed up on the SFF were Victoria Abril, Fatih Akin, Pablo Berger, Michael Fassbender, Vanessa Redgrave, John Malkovich, Michael Moore… 43

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA INTERVJU / INTERVIEW / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ANILA GAJEVIĆ, DIREKTORICA CASTING I TALENT AGENCIJE ZONA

Žena koja slijedi

SVOJE IDEJE 44

JOŠ DOK JE STUDIRALA KNJIŽEVNOST NARODA BIH I BOSANSKI JEZIK, ANILA GAJEVIĆ (36) OPREDIJELILA SE ZA NOVINARSTVO, GDJE ĆE OSTATI SVE DO MOMENTA POKRETANJA CASTING I TALENT AGENCIJE ZONA. KAO PROFESORICA STOGA NIKADA NIJE RADILA, NO KAO TRAG NEKOLIKO GODINA POSVEĆENIH IZUČAVANJU KNJIŽEVNOSTI OSTAT ĆE NJENA KNJIGA POEZIJE, BIVŠA, KOJU JE OBJAVILA 2004. GODINE Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO Foto: Edvin KALIĆ

adeći kao urednica kulture, koja je istovremeno pisala filmske i pozorišne kritike, Anila Gajević bila je u prilici upoznati skoro cijelu glumačku scenu regije. Ideja o osnivanju agencije koja bi okupljala glumce zastupajući ih na stranim tržištima rodila se slučajno, da bi tokom jednog od brojnih druženja u bifeu Narodnog pozorišta uvidjela da su glumci oduševljeni mogućnošću da strani projekti odjednom i njima postanu dostupni. Tako je započela priča o stvaranju Casting i talent agencije Zona, prve ovakve vrste u BiH, koja danas zastupa glumce kako iz naše zemlje, tako i Hrvatske, Srbije, Crne Gore, Makedonije, Rumunije, odnedavno i Turske, te također s Kosova.

Vrijedna i radoznala Kako je bilo započeti graditi poslovni sistem, koji u BiH nema tradiciju? – Bilo mi je zanimljivo, jer sam radoznala po prirodi i volim da učim. Najprije sam se upoznavala s poslom i istraživala tržište. Prvi važan kontakt bio je s kasting direktoricom Nancy Bishop. Radila je na NBC-jevoj seriji Filantrop, koja se snimala u Pragu. Trebali su joj glumci s Kosova. Nakon uspostavljanja kontakta s njom, bila je zainteresovana da pogleda ponuđene portofolije i tada su uloge dobili makedonski glumac

Visar Vishka i bh. glumica Nikolina Jelisavac. Bio je to naš prvi veći međunarodni projekat. Ovaj posao sam počela graditi od nule, a danas je Zona činjenica na svjetskom i evropskom filmskom tržištu. Gdje naši glumci imaju veće šanse za prosperitet? – Apsolutno na velikim tržištima. Danas granice ne postoje. Živimo u globalnom selu, u eri interneta, gdje je sve moguće. Nije bitno gdje glumac živi. Može živjeti u najzabačenijem selu, ali s internet konekcijom može biti dostupan svima. Glumcima koji su članovi Zone cijeli svijet je tržište. Ovdje snimamo glumce i materijal šaljemo na kastinge od Londona, Praga, Los Angelesa do Kanade. BiH je mala zemlja, malo tržište. Jedan film se snimi godišnje, ili nijedan. Veoma je teško glumcima sticati iskustvo na filmu, a većina glumaca, osim o pozorištu, mašta i o filmu.

Šta biste savjetovali mladim glumcima? – Mislim da mladi glumci, što je veoma teško u tom poslu, ne trebaju imati velika očekivanja. Često znam glumcima reći da kada snime kasting zaborave da su to uradili, da ne iščekuju rezultate. To je teško, jer je riječ o specifičnoj profesiji, koja je veoma javna i glumci kada upisuju akademiju, upisuju je zato što su talentovani i zato što imaju očekivanja od tog posla. Voljela bih da shvate da je težak put do uspjeha. Trebaju biti uporni, ambiciozni, ne u mjeri da izgaraju, ali trebaju biti spremni da uče i da konstantno izlaze na kastinge. Na taj način daju priliku da ih svijet vidi. Nikada ne znamo ko će određeni kasting vidjeti, pa se u perspektivi sjetiti njega ili nje. Prilike se ne odbijaju, čak i ako nije dobra sada, u budućnosti se može pokazati takvom. Koga biste izdvojili kao posebne talente? – Svakodnevno otkrivamo nove ljude, nove talente, ne samo tako što se oni nama javljaju, nego i kroz određene projekte. Redovno idem na Akademiju scenskih umjetnosti i pratim ispite. Glumci Dino Sarija i Maja Jurić naprimjer tečno govore engleski i njemački jezik. Zanimljivi su mi Saša Krmpotić, također iz Sarajeva, i Kruno Bakota iz Zagreba, koji je dugo živio u Americi i govori engleski bez akcenta. Iz Hrvatske je i Slavko Sobin, relativno mlad glumac, s kojim dosta radimo. Mnogo je mladih talentovanih

TOM CRUISE, LJUBAZAN I SKROMAN ČOVJEK – Na set idem kada mislim da je nešto zanimljivo. Bila sam na snimanju Nemoguće misije i upoznala, između ostalih, i Toma Cruisea. Divan je, ljubazan i skroman čovjek. Sve velike zvijezde, koje sam upoznala radeći s njima intervjue, ili sada zahvaljujući ovom poslu, veoma su skromni. Nedavno me je također svojom skromnošću, pristojnošću i kulturom ophođenja oduševio njemački glumac Tom Wlaschiha, zvijezda u usponu. To je ono što pokušavam našim mladim glumcima prenijeti, da je skromnost važna osobina svih umjetnika.

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

KRUNA RADA - Kontinuirani rast agencije najveći je uspjeh. Konstantno širimo bazu klijenata, ali i produkcija s kojima sarađujemo. Ponosna sam na projekte na kojima smo radili, odnosno naši glumci. Samo neki od njih su Nemoguća misija, The November Man, Twice Born, Child 44, In Order of Disappearance, Skyfall... Mnogo radimo na TV serijama velikih mreža, velikih studija, kao što su, naprimjer, NBC, ABC, BBC ili FOX. Nedavno priznanje Screen International, koji me je uvrstio u vodeće agente na svijetu zapravo je kruna dosadašnjeg rada i dokaz da sam na pravom putu.

glumaca, ali i onih u svojim tridesetim. Od turskih glumaca s kojima sarađujemo neki su već zvijezde, poput Nesrin Cavadzade. Od bosanskohercegovačkih su tu Amila Terzimehić, Igor Skvarica, Edin Avdagić, Muhamed Hadžović...

Kontinuirani rast Za koju vrstu uloga najčešće pregovarate? – Kako smo poznati kao agencija iz jugoistočne Evrope, nama se manje-više javljaju kasting direktori i producenti ukoliko imaju potrebu 46

za ulogama tog tipa, nacionalnosti s ovog područja, ulogama koje dolaze s ruskog govornog područja, ili s bilo kojeg neengleskog područja. Nekada imaju zanimljivu ulogu i žele vidjeti talentovane glumce iz cijelog svijeta. Kako je član naše agencije glumac Reshad Strik, Australijanac porijeklom iz BiH, Zonu pokušavamo profilirati u pravcu agencije u kojoj postoje glumci čiji je maternji jezik engleski. Koliko Vam u poslovnom smislu znači posjećivanje Sarajevo Film Festivala? – Imamo sjajnu saradnju

sa Sarajevo Film Festivalom i smatramo ga u neku ruku i našim partnerom. Proteklih pet godina, a učinit ćemo to i ove godine, organizovali smo Zoninu zabavu na festivalu, i to obično bude jedan od posjećenijih događaja. Festival je važno mjesto za naš posao, naše glumce, susrete svih filmskih umjetnika. Šta očekujete od budućnosti? – Profesionalno, da se agencija i dalje razvija, te da zaposlimo još agenata koji bi zastupali određene glumce.

ANILA GAJEVIĆ, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF CASTING AND TALENT AGENCY ZONA

Woman who goes after

HER IDEAS WHILE STILL A STUDENT OF LITERATURE OF BH. PEOPLES AND BOSNIAN LANGUAGE, ANILA GAJEVIĆ (36) OPTED FOR JOURNALISM, IN WHICH SHE STAYED UNTIL FOUNDING CASTING AND TALENT AGENCY ZONA. SHE THUS NEVER WORKED AS A PROFESSOR, BUT SHE LEFT A MARK AFTER SEVERAL YEARS DEDICATED TO STUDYING LITERATURE WITH HER BOOK OF POETRY, THE EX, WHICH SHE PUBLISHED IN 2004. Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO Photo by: Edvin KALIĆ

orking as a culture editor and at the same time writing film and theatre reviews, Anila Gajević had the opportunity to meet almost the entire acting scene of the region. The idea of founding an agency which would gather actors and represent them in foreign markets came about accidentally, whilst having one of many sit togethers at National Theatre bar, when she realised that actors would be delighted if given the opportunity to have foreign projects available to them too. That’s when the story of making a Casting and talent agency Zona began, the first of its kind in BiH, which now represents actors not only from our country, but from Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, Macedonia, Romania, since recently Turkey as well, and Kosovo too.

Hardworking and curious What was it like to start building a business system which did not have a tradition in BiH?

– It was ver interesting, as I am curious by nature and I love to learn. First I got to know the work and researched the market. My first important contact was with the casting director Nancy Bishop. She worked on a NBC’s show Philanthropist, which was being shot in Prague. She needed actors from Kosovo. After getting in touch with her, she was interested to look at the offered portfolios, and that’s when Macedonian actor Visar Vishka and bh. actress Nikolina Jelisavac got parts. It was our first large international project. I started building this business from zero, and today, Zona is a fact on international and European movie markets. Where do our actors have better chances to prosper? – In large markets, absolutely. Today borders do not exist. We live in a global village, in an Internet era, where anything is possible. It doesn’t matter where the actor lives. He can live in the remotest village, but with Internet connection he can be available to everybody. To actors who are members of Zona the whole

world is a market. We videotape actors here and send materials to castings from London, Prague and Los Angeles to Canada. BiH is a small country, small market. One movie gets made per year, or none. It is very hard for actors to gain experience on film, and most actors, apart from theatre, daydream about the film. What would be your advice to young actors? – I think that young actors should not have big expectations, which is hard in that line of work. I often tell actors that once they shoot the casting, they should forget that they’d done it, that they should not wait for the results. This is hard, because this is such a specific profession which is very public and actors who enroll at the drama school, do so because they are talented and because they have expectations from that job. I would like for them to understand that the road to success is difficult. They need to be persistent, ambitious, not to the extent of burning out, but they need to be willing to learn and to constantly go to castings. That way the are allowing the world a chance to see them. We never know who might see the casting and then eventually remember the actor in it. You do not pass on the opportunities, even if it is not so good now – in future it may turn out to be good. Who would you single out as special talents? – Every day we discover new people, new talents, not just because they get in touch with us, but through certain projects. I regularly go to Academy of Performing arts and I watch the exams. Actors Dino Sarija and Maja Jurić, for example, fluently speak English and German languages. I also find interesting Saša Krmpotić, also from Sarajevo, and Kruno Bakota from Zagreb, who lived in the US for a long time and speaks English without the accent. We work a lot with Slavko Sobin, 47

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA INTERVJU / INTERVIEW / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

THE MOST IMPORTANT SUCCESS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The continuous growth of the agency is our biggest achievement. We are constantly expanding the client base, but also the productions that we collaborate with. I am proud of the projects that we worked on, i.e. our actors worked on. Some of them are Mission Impossible, The November Man, Twice Born, Child 44, In Order of Disappearance, Skyfall... We work a lot on TV series made by big networks, big studios, like, for example, NBC, ABC, BBC or FOX. A recent Screen International award, which included me as one of leading world agents, is actually a crown

a relatively young actor also from Croatia. There are many talented actors, but also the ones who are in their ‘thirties. Out of the Turkish actors that we collaborate with, some are already famous, such as Nesrin Cavadzade. As for the BH. ones, there are Amila Terzimehić, Igor Skvarica, Edin Avdagić, Muhamed Hadžović

TOM CRUISE, KIND AND HUMBLE MAN – I go to a set when I find something interesting there. I was at the Mission Impossible shooting and met, among others, Tom Cruise. He is a lovely, kind and humble man. All big stars that I met while interviewing them, or now through this job, are very modest. Recently I’ve also been delighted by a German actor, a rising star, Tom Wlaschih, by his modesty, decency and cultured behaviour. This is what I’m traying to pass on to our young actors, that modesty is an important virtue of all artists.

Continuous growth What type of roles do you negotiate most often? – We are basically famous as agency from Southeastern Europe, so more or less we get contacted by casting directors and producers if they need parts of that type, nationalities from this region, with roles that come from Russian-speaking areas or any other non-English area. Sometimes they have an interesting part and want to see talented actors from all over the world. Since Reshad Strik,

Australian actor with bh. origins, is a member of our agency, we are trying to raise the profile of Zona towards an agency which represents actors whose mother tongue is English. How much is visiting Sarajevo Film Festival important to you, business wise? – We have a great collaboration with Sarajevo Film Festival and consider it our partner to some extent. In the past five years – and we shall do so

this year too – we organised Zona’s party at the festival, and usually this turns out to be one of the most visited events at the festival. Festival is an important place for our work, our actors, getting together of all film workers. What do you expect from future? – Professionally, further growth of the agency and hiring more agents who would represent particular actors.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Njemačka - od velikih noćnih izlazaka do starih romantičnih četvrti Nevjerovatno ali istinito: više od 10,000 gradova, manjih ili većih, prostiru se između Sjevernog mora i Alpa u Njemačkoj. Svaki ovaj grad odiše jedinstvenim šarmom. Na ovim živahnim destinacijama možete se obradovati koncertima, kulturnim događajima i muzejima visokog nivoa. Također, ova mjesta otkrivaju mnoge spomenike, historijske građevine i nevjerovatne prirodne ljepote.

Germany - from big nights out to romantic old quarters Incredibly, there are more than 10,000 towns and cities in Germany between the North Sea and the Alps. And each one has a charm all of its own. In these vibrant destinations, you can look forward to concerts, cultural events, and open air cinema museums. There is also plenty to discover in the way of monuments, historical buildings and incredible nature.

Saznajte viĹĄe na: www.germany.travel 51

BOSNABROJA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA TEMA / COVER STORY

AMBASADOR SR NJEMAČKE U BIH, DR. CHRISTIAN HELLBACH

POZIV IZ UBJEĐENJA I NAKLONOSTI “NAŠE ZEMLJE VEŽE ZAJEDNIČKI CILJ – DA INTEGRIRAMO BIH U EVROPSKU UNIJU” Razgovarala: Elma ZEĆO / Foto: Almin ZRNO

puštanje u poznanstva s novim ljudima, neku novu kulturu i novu okolinu svakih nekoliko godina veliki je izazov u diplomatskom poslu kako za njega samoga, ambasadora Njemačke u BiH, Christiana Hellbacha, tako i za njegovu porodicu. No, on to istovremeno doživljava kao najveće sticanje bogatstva koje čovjek može zamisliti. Stoga motivirajuće kaže: “Ja sam svoj poziv prihvatio iz ubjeđenja i naklonosti!”

MI NE ODUSTAJEMO! Vaša diplomatska misija u BiH privodi se polako kraju. Možete li sumirati vrijeme provedeno ovdje? – U Sarajevu sam imao zaista uzbudljivo vrijeme. Raduje me što je poslije nemira u februaru 2014. pošlo za rukom da se pristup EU prema BiH obnovi s ciljem deblokiranja integracionog procesa EU. I vjerujem da se zaista nešto pokrenulo. Pravac je ispravan, BiH ima svoje mjesto u Evropskoj uniji.

Ali ima još veoma mnogo posla kako bi građani ove zemlje i osjetili da je EU-perspektiva realna i da će im donijeti konkretne prednosti, posebno kada se radi o poslu, sigurnosti i pravednosti. No, predstoji još veoma mnogo posla! Prije svega treba razgraditi otpore protiv razvoja ove zemlje i podržati odgovornu politiku usmjerenu ka interesima svojih građana. Mi ne odustajemo! Postoji li momenat u Vašem radu, koji biste izdvojili kao posebno važan? – Spontano mi padaju tri događaja na pamet: kada je Vijeće Evrope u decembru 2014. usvojilo njemačko-britansku inicijativu kao politiku EU, prebrođene su dakle godine zastoja i stagnacije. Usvajanje reformske agende i prije svega njena realizacija obećavaju BiH poboljšanje socijalno-ekonomske situacije. Ljudi to ovdje zaslužuju! Daljni važan korak je nedavno postignuto parafiranje adaptacije Sporazuma o stabilizaciji i pridruživanju (SSP) – još jedna prepreka na putu

u Evropsku uniju time je konačno otklonjena. Na koja polja se, prema Vašem mišljenju, može BiH osloniti za progresivniji razvoj? – Prije svega, drago mi je što mogu zaključiti da je Njemačka najvažniji trgovački partner BiH, mnoge njemačke firme uspješno posluju na bh. tržištu. BiH ima dugu tradiciju, naprimjer, u oblasti drvne i kožnoprerađivačke proizvodnje. Ova tradicija se u međuvremenu dopunjuje modernim proizvodnim linijama kao što je slučaj kod namještaja i modernog ekološkog postupka kod štavljenja kože. I kada je riječ o vodopotencijalu BiH je između ostalih u prvom planu – to su oblasti koje je potrebno očuvati i izgraditi. BiH ima i metaloprerađivačku tradiciju, i ovdje ne vidim da je iscrpljen potencijal obnove. I biološko ratarstvo i turizam, prema mom mišljenju, mogu ubuduće još više doprinijeti modernom usmjeravanju privrede i postizanju blagostanja. Šta je, općenito, u fokusu Ambasade Savezne Republike Njemačke u BiH? – Najvažniji zadatak naše ambasade je da zastupa domovinu u zemlji domaćina i da njeguje i razvija odnose sa zemljom domaćinom. U BiH imamo sreću da su ti odnosi izvrsni. Stotine hiljada Bosanaca i Hercegovaca našli su utočište za vrijeme rata u Njemačkoj – mnogi su se vratili, ili održavaju uske veze s BiH, te tako doprinose međusobnoj razmjeni i razumijevanju. Njemačka je podržala BiH u teškim vremenima nakon rata i pružala pomoć. Do danas pružamo humanitarnu pomoć, naprimjer, uništavanjem zaostalih mina i municije. Već dugo stojimo čvrsto uz BiH kada je riječ o ubrzanju procesa euroatlantskih integracija. Naše zemlje veže zajednički cilj – da integriramo BiH u Evropsku uniju. 53

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

IMPRESIONIRAN GOSTOPRIMSTVOM LJUDI Dok ste putovali po BiH, koji su Vas dijelovi najviše impresionirali? – Mnogo sam i rado putovao kroz BiH. Bosna i Hercegovina je prelijepa i nevjerovatno raznolika zemlja. Sviđaju mi se strme planine, blage ravnice i kristalno čiste rijeke, vinogradi, voćnjaci i mnoga idilična mjesta. Cijenim raznolikost, nema jednostavno mjesta ili krajolika koji više preferiram. Ali ljude preferiram ovdje itekako. Najviše su me impresionirali gostoprimstvo i otvorenost ljudi. Oni su kapital ove zemlje! Koje ste mišljenje formirali o bh. kulturi, tradiciji, umjetnosti, prirodnim ljepotama? – Kao što su toliko raznolike prirodne ljepote u BiH, toliko je to i njena 54

tradicija, umjetnost i kultura. Tradicija i kultura svjedoče o dugoj i uzburkanoj prošlosti punoj događaja. Oni su dio evropskog kulturološkog identiteta. Iz tog razloga Ministarstvo vanjskih poslova Njemačke podržava projekte iz oblasti očuvanja kulturne baštine. To se proteže od projekata održivosti Jevrejskog groblja, preko restauracije zidnog

Po čemu ćete pamtiti Sarajevo ? – Po odličnim ćevapima. Ozbiljno! Ono što će mi posebno ostati u sjećanju su te mnoge interesantne ličnosti koje sam sreo. I, naravno, da ću se rado sjećati te vesele i radišne gužve na čaršiji, sjećat ću se mnogih malih muzeja i vjerskih kuća – jednostavno te raznolikosti. Divan grad koji je preživio toliko dešavanja, i onih strašnih – i možda baš zato i može pružiti tako mnogo.

slikarstva u jednoj džamiji, pa sve do konzerviranja arheoloških otkrića iz rimskog doba. Za 2017. planirano je renoviranje jedne crkve. Impresioniralo me je i izuzetno raznoliko umjetničko stvaralaštvo. Pored zaista raznovrsne domaće umjetničke scene BiH je i hotspot za međunarodne festivale. Tim povodom redovno dolaze njemački umjetnici, kojima Njemačka ambasada često pruža podršku. Za mene je bilo divno primijetiti da je i razmjena između partnera u Njemačkoj i BiH na ovom polju veoma intenzivna. Tako sam se, primjera radi, mnogo obradovao da je u proljeće ove godine bilo moguće da se uz podršku Udruženja partnerskih gradova Leipzig-Travnik svečano proslave nove orgulje u Gučoj gori. Šta je na Vas ostavilo najjači utisak? – Teško je to reći, bilo je izuzetno mnogo upečatljivih utisaka. Možda su to ljudi, njihova ljubaznost i njihova otvorenost, ali i njihova kreativnost kada je riječ o tome da

se savladaju mnogi problemi svakodnevnice. U BiH sam sreo mnogo jakih ličnosti, koje su me trajno impresionirale.

LJETNI PROGRAM PORODICE HELLBACH Vrijeme je ljetnih odmora. Gdje Vi uobičavate provoditi slobodne tople dane? – To je dobro pitanje ove godine! Mislim da ću iskoristiti vrijeme da sa svojom porodicom pripremim selidbu. Možda će ostati još nekoliko dana da se malo odmorimo i da napravimo koji izlet do Baltika, ili da skoknemo do meklenburških jezera. Možda ćemo u augustu posjetiti pozorište Heckentheater kod dvorca Rheinsberg: ove godine se izvodi, između ostalog, Tosca, prema mom ukusu jedna od najljepših opera uopće. Postoje li turističke destinacije na koje se rado vraćate? – Oh da, ima ih u mnogim zemljama, u mojoj domovini Njemačkoj, u cijeloj Evropi i u Latinskoj Americi, gdje sam odrastao. I, naravno, ovdje u regionu s kojim sam i porodično povezan. U BiH nemam samo jedno omiljeno mjesto, nego bezbroj meni dragih mjesta! Volim ove vijugave ceste kroz prirodu. Fasciniran sam pogledima, koji vam se ukažu poslije poneke okuke: uvijek nešto novo, iznenađujuće i često zapanjujuće! Gdje ćete otići iz Sarajeva? – Najprije ću se vratiti u Berlin. Radujem se već sada tome što ću se opet šetkati kroz Brandenburšku kapiju, ili gledati kako se razvio City-West – kvart oko stanice Zoo kompletno je nanovo urađen. Berlin ima mnogo toga za ponuditi: visoka kultura i mala scena, intelektualne ideje i razonoda, vrhunska gastronomija i Currywurst – od svega ponešto!

HIS EXCELLENCY, AMBASSADOR OF THE FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY, DR. CHRISTIAN HELLBACH

VOCATION OUT OF CONVICTION AND AFFECTION “OUR COUNTRIES ARE BONDED WITH THE COMMON GOAL – TO INTEGRATE BIH INTO EUROPEAN UNION” Interviewed by: Elma ZEĆO / Photo: Almin ZRNO

etting acquainted with new people, some new culture and new surroundings every few years is a huge challenge in a diplomatic line of work for the German Ambassador to BiH himself, Christian Hellbach, but also for his family. But, at the same time, he regards it as the biggest enrichment a man can imagine. Thus, he says, in a motivating fashion: “I accepted my vocation from conviction and affection!”

WE DO NOT GIVE UP! Your diplomatic mission in BiH is slowly coming to an end. How would you sum up your time spent here? – I had a truly exciting time in Sarajevo. It pleases me that after the unrest in February 2014. the BiH’s access to EU was renewed, with the aim of unblocking the EU’s integrational process. And I believe 55

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY that something really got started. The direction is right, BiH has its place in the European Union. But there is still a lot of work to be done so that the citizens of this country would feel that the EU perspective is realistic and that it will bring them concrete benefits, especially in regards to jobs, security and justice. However, a lot of work still lies ahead! Primarily, the resistances to development of this country need to be diluted and responsible politics that is aimed at the interests of the citizens need to be supported. We do not give up! Was there a particular moment in your work that you would single out as very important? – Spontaneously, I can think of three events: when the Council of Europe adopted in December 2014. a German-British initiative as EU policy, by which years of deadlock and stagnation were overcome. The adoption of reform agenda and primarily its materialisation promise BiH an improvement of its socio-economic situation. People here deserve that! Further important step is a recently achieved initalling of adaptation of Stabilisation and association agreement (SSP) – by which another hurdle on the road to European Union was finally removed. On which fields, in your opinion, can BiH rely on for a more progressive development? – First of all, I am glad to conclude that Germany is the most important trade partner to BiH, many German companies successfully do business in bh. market. BiH has a long tradiotion in, for example, wood and leather processing industry. This tradition has been supplemented meanwhile with modern product lines, such as with furniture and modern eco treatment in leather tanning. Also, water potential of BiH is, among other things, in the forefront – these are the 56

areas which need to be preserved and developed. BiH has a metalprocessing tradition, and I think that the restoration potential is not exhausted. Also biological farming and tourism, in my opinion, can contribute in the future to the modern direction of economy and achieving prosperity. What is, generally, the focus of the Embassy of the Federal Republic of Germany in BiH? – The most important job of our Embassy is to represent its homeland in the host country and to nourish and develop relations with the host country. We are lucky that these relations in BiH are excellent. Hundreds of thousands of BiH nationals found refuge in Germany during the war – many came back, or are closely related to BiH, and thus contribute to the mutual exchange and understanding. Germany supported BiH in hard times after the war and provided assistance. To this day, we provide humanitarian aid in, for example, destruction of remaining mines and ammunition. We have been standing by BiH closely for a long time in regards to the accelaration of

What will you remember Sarajevo by? – By excellent ćevapi. Seriously! The thing that I will particularly remember are those many interesting persons that I met. And, of course, I will fondly remember the joyous hustle and bustle in čaršija, I will remember a lot od small museums and worship places – simply those diversities. It is a wonderful city that has survived so many events, and those terrible ones – and maybe that is why it can offer so much.

Euroatlantic integration process. Our countries are bonded with the common goal – to integrate BiH into European Union.

IMPRESSED BY THE HOSPITALITY OF THE PEOPLE Which parts of BiH impressed you the most during your travels through the country? – I traveled a lot and gladly so through BiH. Bosnia and Herzegovina is a beautiful and incredibly diverse country. I like the steep mountains, gentle valleys and crystal clear rivers, vineyards, orchards and many idyllic places. I appreciate the diversity, there is simply no place or scenery which I prefer more. But I prefer the people here, very much so! I was most impressed by the hospitality and openness of people. They are the capital of this country! What is your opinion on bh. culture, tradition, art or natural beauties? – As diverse as natural beauties in BiH are, so is its tradition as well, its art and culture. Tradition and culture witness the long and turbulent history full of events. They are part of European cultural identity. For this reason, Germany’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs supports projects related to preservation of cultural heritage. It extends from the Jewish cemetary sustainability projects, via restoration of mural painting in one mosque, and then all the way to conservation of arceological discoveries from Roman times. For the year 2017. we have planned a restoration of one church. I was also impressed by an exceptionally diverse artistic creativity. Apart from having a truly varied local art scene, BiH is also a hotspot for international festivals.

German artists regularly come here for that reason, and German Embassy often provides support for that. It was a wonderful thing for me to see that the exchange between partners in Germany and BiH in this field is very intense. This is why, for instance, I was really glad that in the spring of this year it was possible to ceremoniously celebrate new organs in Guča gora, with the support of the Association of partner cities Leipzig-Travnik. What impressed you the most? – It’s hard to say, there were many memorable impressions. Maybe it’s the people, their kindness and openness, but their creativity as well in resolving many everyday problems. In BiH I met many strong personalities, which have left a lasting impression on me.

SUMMER PROGRAM OF HELLBACH FAMILY It is a vacation time of the year. Where do you usually like to spend your free warm days? – It’s a good question this year! I think that I will use that time to prepare for the move with my family. Maybe a few days will remain to rest a little and to take a few trips to the Baltics, or to pop by to Mecklenburg lakes. Perhaps in August we will visit Heckentheater by the Rheinsberg castle: this year they have Tosca, among other performances, which is one of the most beautiful operas of all times, if you ask me. Are there any tourist destinations that you happily go back to again and again? – Oh yes, there are in many countries, in my homeland Germany, in the whole Europe and

in Latin America, where I grew up. And, of course, here in the region, in which I have familial relations too. In BiH I don’t have only one favourite place, but many places that I find dear! I love those winding roads through the countryside. I am fascinated by vistas that you come upon after certain curves: always something new, surprising and often stunning!

Where do you go from Sarajevo? – First I go back to Berlin. I already feel happy that I will stroll again through the Brandenburg Gate, or observe how the City-West developed – an area around Zoo station has been completely renovated. Berlin has a lot to offer: high culture and small scene, intellectual ideas and leisure, top gastronomy and Currywurst – a little bit of everything! 57

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY PUTOPIS

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OSLOBODITE SVA SVOJA ČULA I KRENITE U SUSRET BERLINU. ON ĆE DOČEKATI ŠIROM RAŠIRENIH RUKU SVE LJUDE OTVORENOG SRCA I UMA. OSTALI NEKA OSTANU KOD KUĆE, JER KAKO JE REKAO FRIEDRICH ENGELS: “U GRADU KAO ŠTO JE BERLIN STRANAC BI POČINIO PRAVI ZLOČIN PROTIV SAMOGA SEBE I DOBROGA UKUSA, AKO NE BI OBRATIO PAŽNJU NA SVE NEUOBIČAJENOSTI” Piše: Emira AZGANOVIĆ

IMA GRADOVA KOJI SE GLEDAJU, POPUT FIRENZE. A IMA GRADOVA KOJI SE ČUJU, POPUT BERLINA. - Klanund, 1916. 58

a sjeveroistoku Njemačke, u srcu pokrajine Brandenburg, na rijekama Spree i Havel, smjestio se Berlin, najveći i glavni grad Njemačke, drugi grad EU po veličini, odmah iza Londona.

Zid nekada i sada Decenijama je Berlin bio poznat kao simbol podijeljenosti Istoka i Zapada – čuveni zid dijelio je grad na istočni – socijalistički, te zapadni – kapitalistički dio. Zid je srušen tokom masovnih demonstracija 9. novembra 1989., čime je zapravo označen početak kraja hladnog rata u Evropi. Tako

je od nekadašnjeg 150 kilometara dugog Berlinskog zida ostao mali dio koji turisti obavezno posjećuju, najčešće Galeriju istočne strane, jedan segment na Potsdamer Platzu i nezaobilazni Checkpoint Charlie, što je bio kodni naziv kontrolne tačke jednog od najpoznatijih graničnih prijelaza u Berlinu, gdje su samo stranci i diplomate mogli da pređu iz jednog u drugi dio grada.

ANI! BILI SMO POZV zivu Zahvaljujući postičke ri tu ke Njemač vili zajednice bora smo u Berlinu.

Danas Checkpoint Charlie zauzima prostor između dvije saobraćajne trake. Vlada prilična gužva zbog mnogobrojnih turista koji se uz simboličnu naknadu od 2 EUR-a žele fotografisati s preobučenim američkim i sovjetskim vojnicima.

Odlike Berlina Berlin ima 916 mostova, što je gotovo duplo više mostova nego što ih ima u Veneciji. Također, dvadesetak dobitnika Nobelove nagrade bili su studenti Humbuldt univerziteta, nastarijeg univerziteta u Berlinu, koji je osnovan još 1810. godine. Na njemu je jedno vrijeme predavao i Albert Einstein.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Na jednoj strani ulice danas se nalazi McDonald’s, a na suprotnoj je ostao natpis na engleskom, ruskom, francuskom i njemačkom jeziku: Vi sad napuštate američki sektor. Muzej posvećen zidu nalazi se također preko puta.

Pogled na cijeli grad

Svjedoci historije

Prilikom posjete Berlina neizostavno je otići vidjeti Muzejski otok, dio grada koji polukružno obavija rijeka Spree, a na kojem se nalazi pet veleljepnih zdanja muzeja podignutih za vrijeme vladavina nekoliko pruskih careva. To su Stari muzej, Novi muzej, Pergamski muzej, Bode muzej i Stara nacionalna galerija.

Jedan od najpoznatijih simbola Berlina je čuvena Brandenburška kapija, najbolji svjedok burne historije Njemačke. Sagrađena je 1791. godine po naređenju pruskog kralja Friedricha Wilhelma II. Vrata su bila dio gradskih zidina i jedna od 18 vrata kroz koje se ulazilo u Berlin. Također, predstavljala su ulaz u gradski centar Unter den Linden, aveniju koja je vodila do kraljevske palače zbog čega su Brandenburška vrata jedina u Berlinu koja postoje i danas. U njihovoj blizini nalazi se Reichstag, njemački parlament. Od 1949. zasjeda pod imenom Bundestag i najviše je zakonodavno tijelo u Njemačkoj, dok Reichstag predstavlja berlinsku zgradu u kojoj je Bundestag smješten od 1999. godine. Spomenik evropskim Jevrejima ubijenim tokom Drugog svjetskog rata nalazi se nedaleko od Brandenburških vrata, a njegova gradnja trajala je gotovo 13 godina.

Berlinski televizijski toranj najveća je njemačka građevina. Visok je 368 metara i jedna od najtanjih građevina u Evropi. S njegovog vidikovca, s visine od 204 metra, može se vidjeti cijeli grad.

Stanica duhova Potsdamer Platz veliki je trg koji nosi ime susjednog gradića Potsdama. Za vrijeme Hladnog rata bio je potpuno uništen i podijeljen zidom. Na trgu je bila i željeznička stanica S-Bahn, također Stanica duhova, prozvana tako jer se dugo nalazila na ničijoj zemlji između dva Berlina. Danas se na njemu nalazi Bulevar zvijezda, SONY centar, Muzej filma, kao i dvorana u kojoj se svakog februara održava čuveni međunarodni filmski festival – Berlinale. S tradicijom od 60 godina, predstavlja jednu od glavnih svjetskih filmskih manifestacija.

Čovjek semafor Na semaforima istočnog Berlina nalazio se čovječuljak sa šeširom u koraku, sada već i svjetski poznati Ampelmann – čovjek semafor. Nakon ujedinjenja Njemačke pod pritiskom građana istočnog dijela Berlina, Ampelmann je ostao na semaforima, ali i na mnogobrojnim suvenirima i postao jedan od zaštitnih znakova grada.

Simbol Berlina je medvjed, te je u skladu s tim nagrada koja se dodjeljuje na festivalu statua u obliku medvjeda, koju je na 56. internacionalnom filmskom festivalu za film Grbavica osvojila i 2006. godine bh. rediteljica Jasmila Žbanić.

Berlin 365/24 Berlin je otvoren za ljude, muziku, novo i tradicionalno, partijanje i odmaranje. Ne morate se odlučiti za Berlin – grad je jednostavno tu. Uvijek. U svako doba dana i noći, u svako doba godine, Berlin nudi blistavi niz događaja, vrhunaca, zabavu i kulturu. Berlin živi 365/24. Gradski muzejski pejzaž je fascinantno raznolik. Tri operske kuće nude bogatstvo visoke kulture, dok duh subkulture obitava u brojnim klubovima. Berghain je u dva sata još uvijek pun, a u pet ujutro možete uživati u popularnom berlinskom currywurstu u lokalnom bifeu. Berlin je raznolik kao Berlinci, glasan poput njegovog saobraćaja, miran kao njegovi parkovi i vrtovi.

ITED WE WERE INV lin We visited Ber vitation in e th g in follow ional of German Nat . Tourist Board

Meet BERLIN! TRAVEL NOTES

FREE ALL YOUR SENSES AND SET OFF TO BERLIN! IT WILL WELCOME WITH OPEN ARMS ALL OPEN HEARTED AND OPEN MINDED PEOPLE. THE REST SHOULD STAY AT HOME BECAUSE, AS FRIEDRICH ENGELS SAID: “IN A CITY SUCH AS BERLIN, A FOREIGNER WOULD COMMIT A TRUE CRIME AGAINST HIMSELF AND GOOD TASTE IF HE DIDN’T TAKE HEED OF ALL OF ITS PECULIARITIES“ Written by: Emira Azganović

“THERE ARE CITIES TO BE LOOKED AT, SUCH AS FLORENCE. AND THEN THERE ARE CITIES TO BE HEARD, SUCH AS BERLIN. - Klanund, 1916. Saznajte više na: www.germany.travel 61

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

n the northeast of Germany, right at the heart of the Brandenburg province, on rivers Spree and Havel, lies Berlin, Germany’s largest and capital city, second EU city in size, just after London.

The Wall then and now For decades Berlin was known as symbol of division between the East and the West – the famous Wall divided the city into Eastern – socialist, and Western – capitalist part. The Wall was knocked down during mass demonstrations on November 9, 1989, which in effect marked the beginning of the end of the cold war in Europe. Thus, from once a 150 kilometers long Berlin Wall now remains only a small part which tourists are sure to visit, mostly the Gallery of the East side, one segment on Potsdamer Platz and the unavoidable Checkpoint Charlie, which used to be a code name of a checkpoint of one of the most famous border crossings in Berlin, where only foreigners and diplomats could cross from one to the other part of the city. Today, Checkpoint Charlie occupies a space between two traffic 62

lanes! Usually it is a very busy spot because of the many tourists who, paying the symbolic 2 EUR fee, want to take a photograph with „guards“ dressed as American and Soviet soldiers. One side of the street today hosts a McDonald’s, and at the opposite side there still remains an inscription in English, Russian, French and German language: You are now leaving the American sector. The museum dedicated to the Wall is also across the street.

History witnesses One of the most famous symbols of Berlin is the renowned Brandenburg Gate, the best witness of Germany’s turbulent history. It was built in 1791, by the order of the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm II. The Gate was part of the city walls and one of the 18 gates that led into Berlin. Also, it was an entrance to the city centre Unter den Linden, an avenue which led to the royal palace, which is why the Brandenburg Gate is the only gate still remaining in Berlin. Situated in its close proximity is Reichstag, the German parliament. Ever since 1949, it sits by

Little traffic LIGHT MAN On the East Berlin pedestrian traffic lights there used to be a little man with a hat, in stride, now world famous Ampelmann – little traffic light man. After Germany united, pressured by the citizens of East Berlin, Ampelmann remained on the lights, but also on numerous souvenirs and became one of the city’s trademarks

the name Bundestag and is the highest legislative body in Germany, while Reichstag represents a Berlin building in which Bundestag has been located since 1999. A monument to European Jews killed during the Second World War is situated near the Brandenburg Gate, and its construction took almost 13 years.

View of the entire city While visiting Berlin, one must see Museum Island, a part of the city that is semicircled by river Spree, with five magnificent museum buildings built during the rule of several Prussian emperors. These are the Old (Altes) Museum, New (Neues) Museum, Pergamon Museum, Bode Museum and Old National Gallery (Alte Nationalgalerie).

Ghost station Berlinski zid sada / Berlin Wall nowdays

Potsdamer Platz is a large square which bears the name of the neighbouring town of Potsdam. During the Cold war it was com-

The characteristics of Berlin Berlin has 916 bridges, which is almost twice as many as Venice has. Also, around twenty Nobel prize winners were students of Humbuldt University, the oldest University in Berlin, which was founded in 1810. Albert Einstein taught there for a while as well.

Otok muzeja / Museum island

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY pletely destroyed and divided by the wall. There used to be a railway station S-Bahn, also known as Ghost station, called so because it was located in no man’s land between two Berlins for a long time. Today, the Potsdamer Platz is a host to Boulevard of Stars (Walk of Fame), SONY centre, Museum of Film, as well as a hall in which every February a famous international film festival takes place – Berlinale. With a tradition of 60 years, it represents one of the world’s major film events. Potsdamer Platz / Potsdamer Platz

The symbol of Berlin is a bear, which is why the award given at the festival is a bear shaped statue. Jasmila Žbanić, a bh. director, won a Golden Bear at the 56. International film festival for film Grbavica in 2006. Bh. director Danis Tanović won a Silver Bear for film “Death in Sarajevo” for best direction at the 66. International film festival in Berlin, in 2016.

Brandenburška kapija / Brandenburg Gate

Berlin 365/24 Berlin is open – for people, music, the new and traditional, partying and chilling out. You don’t have to decide for Berlin – the city is just there. Always. At any time of day or night and any time of year, Berlin has a sparkling array of events, highlights, entertainment and culture. Berlin is 365/24. The city’s museum landscape is fascinatingly diverse. Three opera houses offer a wealth of high culture, while the subculture spirit is alive and well in innumerable clubs. The Berghain is still packed at 2 pm – and at 5 am, you can enjoy Berlin’s famous currywurst at the local snack bar. Berlin is as diverse as the Berliners, as loud as its traffic, as quiet as its parks and gardens. 64

Simply breathtaking. Germany is a paradise for walkers and for nature lovers with its national parks and unspoilt scenery. There’s simply so much on offer: awe-inspiring rock formations, plants and animals of rare beauty and always somewhere new to discover.

_naturalbeauty naturalbeauty

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Plan your next trip here: www.germany.travel/natural-landscapes

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

SPEKTAKL PRIRODE

ČUVENI NACIONALNI PARKOVI NJEMAČKE UKOLIKO STE UDAHNULI OSVJEŽENJE ODMORA U OČUVANOJ PRIRODI, ZASIGURNO SE NALAZITE U NEKOM OD NACIONALNIH PARKOVA NJEMAČKE SPECTACTLE OF NATURE

FAMOUS NATIONAL PARKS OF GERMANY IF YOU ARE BREATHING IN THE REFRESHING RELAXATION IN WELL PRESERVED NATURE, THEN YOU MUST BE IN ONE OF THE NATIONAL PARKS OF GERMANY

Nacionalni park Sächsische Schweiz (Saksonska Švicarska)

National park Sächsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland)

100 miliona godina spomenika prirode

100 million years of natural monuments

Dobro došli u mjesto rođenja slobodnog penjanja! Ambijentu u kojem se može upražnjavati ova disciplina malo koji drugi u svijetu može parirati. Regiju nacionalnog parka Sächsische Schweiz (Saska Švicarska) krase stijene, duboko urezane doline, visoravni i kanjoni, a nastanjuju je rijetke životinjske vrste kao što su buljooka sova, vidra i puh. Ko želi imati pogled na cijelo područje, može se popeti na uzvisinu po strmim stijenama nacionalnog parka, ali i uživati u veličanstvenom pogledu u nešto lakšoj i ugodnijoj turi. Pri vožnji u unajmljenom čamcu s veslima ili u jednom od mnogobrojnih brodova, ovaj se zapanjujući krajolik može istražiti i na vodi. U ostale zanimljivosti ubrajaju se kuća nacionalnog parka, utvrda Königstein, pozornica na stijenama Rathen, piratski dvorac Flößersteig, Canalettov stup u gradu Pirna i, naravno, jedinstveni Dresden.

Welcome to the birthplace of free climbing! The ambiance in which this discipline can be practiced can hardly be compared to any other in the world. The region of national park Sächsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland) is adorned by rocks, deeply engraved valley, plateaus and canyons, and is inhabited by rare animal forms such as sockeye owl, otter and dormouse. If you prefer the view of the entire area, you can climb the hill over the steep rocks of the national park, but also enjoy the magnificent view in a somewhat easier and more comfortable tour. This fascinating scenery can be explored on water as well, in a rented boat with oars or in one of the many ships. Other attractions include a national park house, fortress Königstein, a stage on Rathen rocks, pirate castle Flößersteig, Canaletto’s column in town Pirna and, of course, unique city of Dresden.

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Nacionalni park Jasmund (Jazmund): TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY ©Colorvision Uthoff, Hans R.

Nacionalni park Jasmund (Jazmund) Fascinantna obala obrubljena krečnjačkim stijenama Na krajnjem sjeveroistoku Njemačke smješten je nacionalni park Jasmund, čija su najpoznatija odlika svjetski poznate krečnjačke stijene oko Königsstuhla. Šume crvene bukve, koje postoje još od 13. vijeka, također su dio nacionalnog parka u kojem su utočište pronašli piljci kao i ugroženi bjelorepi štekavac. Velikodušna ponuda planinarskih i biciklističkih ruta, ekskurzija i seminara omogućava razgledavanje ovog bajkovitog šumskog krajolika i rezervata biosfere Jugoistočni Rügen. No, područje Stubnitza nudi mnogo više od bajkovite kredne panorame. Na redovno organizovanim turama posjetitelji mogu saznati više o legendarnim likovima, kao što su germanska božica Herta ili tajanstveni pirat Störtebecker, koji je na ovom mjestu navodno zakopao blago. Posjeta lovačkom dvorcu Granitzu, koji se nalazi južno od Blinza, ili vožnja otočkim parnim minitramvajem koji nosi naziv Rasender Roland, otvorit će vam apetit za dodatne kulturne znamenitosti regije. 68

National park Jasmund Fascinating coastline lined with limestone rocks At the furthest Northeast of Germany lies a national park Jasmund, whose most famous characteristics are the world famous limestone rocks around Königsstuhl. Red beech forests, which exist since 13th century, are also a part of the national park in which swallows and endangered white-tailed eagle have found shelter. Generous offer of mountain and biking routes, field trips and seminars provide for sightseeing of this fairytale-like scenery, and biosphere preserve Souteastern Rügen. However, the area of Stubnitz offers much more than fairytale limestone panorama. Visitors can take regularly organised tours to discover more abound legendary characters such as Germanic goddess Herta or mysterious pirate Störtebecker, who, allegedly buried his treasure in this place. A visit to hunting castle Granitz, which is located south of Blinz, or a ride on an island’s steam mini-tram named Rasender Roland, will wet your appetite for additional cultural landmarks of the region.

Nacionalni park SchleswigHolsteinisches Wattenmeer (Vadensko more Šlezvig-Holštajn) Najveće područje plitkog mora na svijetu Plitko more u najsjevernijoj saveznoj pokrajini Schleswig Hol� stein područje je podložno morskim mijenama. Kada nastupi plima, more ga preplavljuje u potpunosti, a dolaskom oseke ostaje potpuno suho. Tako mali otoci Halligen, koji su nezaštićeni nasipima, za vrijeme visokih plima i oluja budu potpuno prekriveni vodom. Ovo plitko more nastanjuje i do 3200 životinjskih vrsta. Stoga je uz vodu moguće pronaći morske zvijezde, rakove, puževe, školjke i pješčane crve. Kao mjesto za gniježđenje i odmaranje velikog broja ptica selica, ovaj nacionalni park predstavlja cjelogodišnju turističku atrakciju. U jesen posjetitelji mogu posmatrati apsolutno nenadmašan prirodni spektakl – nesvakidašnji prizor dolaska različitih vrsta ptica. Bilo da su na programu šetnje plažom, kupke u moru, šetnje kroz područje plitkog mora, vožnje brodom ili promatranje ptica na poljima soli, odmor u nacionalnom parku Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer garantuje odmor za dušu i tijelo.

Nacionalni park Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer (Vadensko more Šlezvig-Holnštajn): © DZT, Photographer: Scherf Dietmar

National park SchleswigHolsteinisches Wattenmeer (Schleswig-Holstein Wadden Sea National Park) The largest area of shallow sea in the world The shallow sea in the furthest North federal province of Schle�swig Holstein is an area suscepti� ble to tidal changes. When the high tide comes, the sea floods it entirely, and with the arrival of low tide it remains completely dry. Thus, small Halligen isles, which are unprotected by embankments, get

completely flushed over with water during high tides and storms. This shallow sea is inhabited by up to 3200 animal forms. It is thus possible to come upon sea stars, crabs, snails, shells and sand worms by the water. This national park is a year long tourist attraction as a place for nesting and resting of a large number of migratory birds. In autumn, visitors can watch an absolutely unsurpassed natural spectacle – the unusal sight of arrival of various types of birds. Whether it is at the program of beach walks, sea bathing, strolling through the area of shallow sea, boat riding or bird observing at the salt fields, vacation in national park Schleswig-Holsteinisches Wattenmeer guarantees a rest for body and soul.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Nacionalni park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft (Zapadnopomeranski laguni) Mjesto gdje se šume stapaju s plažama Nacionalni park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft ističe se kao jedinstveni predjel sačinjen od strmih obala, dina, prevlaka i obalnih jezera. Naziv Bodden duguje plitkim uvalama odvojenim od Baltičkog mora u kojima se miješaju so i slatka voda, a mogu se istražiti čamcem tokom kružnih obilazaka. Na vođenim ili samostalno organizovanim turama posjetitelji mogu razgledati obalu i šume nacionalnog parka. Putevi kroz Osterwald obiluju izvanrednim vidikovcima, kao što su Pramort i Visoka dina, koji između ostalog vode i kroz historijski važna polja soli. Razno70

vrsnost biljnog i životinjskog svijeta također će vas zapanjiti. Nacionalni park najveće je evropsko odmaralište ždralova i svake jeseni ovdje pristiže njih oko 30.000, što je jedinstven doživljaj. U ovoj se regiji također ističu i umjetnička kolonija u Ahrenshoopu, svjetionik i muzej Natureum an Darßer Ort, kuća nacionalnog parka na otoku Hiddensee, te muzej zlata u Stralsundu.

National park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft (Western Pomerania Lagoon Area National Park) A place where forests merge with beaches National park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft stands out as an unique district made of steep sho-

res, dunes, isthmuses and shore lakes. Bodden owes its name to shallow inlets separated from Baltic Sea where sweet and salty water mix, and they can be explored by boats during round trips. At guided or privately organised tours visitors can observe the shore and forests of the national park. Roads through Osterwald are abound with excellent panoramas, such as Pramort and Tall Dune, which also lead to historically important fields of salt, among other things. The diversity of flora and fauna will also astonish you. National park is the biggest European resting place of cranes and each fall some 30.000 of them come here, which is an unique experience. Also specific to this region is the artistic colony in Ahrenshoop, lighthouse and museum Natureum an Darßer Ort, house of the national park on the isle of Hiddensee, and the museum of gold in Stralsundu.

Nacionalni park Harz (Harc)

National park Harz

Legendarno sredogorje

Entering Harz national park marks the beginning of an adventurous exploration of nature. Goethe’s way and Witch’s ascend will take you through legendary forests, mysterious rain swamps and natural drinking water. The peak is at 1.142 m – which is the highest mountain in Northern Germany. The peak usually can only be spotted in contours, as it is forever and again lost in the fog. Due to this game of nature folk tales and legends of witches came about, which became a motive for Walpurgis Night which is celebrated every year. As an additional attraction you can visit a steam railway and 100- year old stone garden. You can participate in the walk with a ranger or in a railway ride on a 130 km long route – all the way to Brocken hill which boasts the highest railway station in Germany.

Ulaskom u nacionalni park Harz započinje pustolovno istraživanje prirode. Na Goetheovom putu i vještičijem usponu proći ćete kroz legendarne šume, tajnovite kišne močvare i prirodne tekuće vode. Vrhunac se nalazi na 1.142 m – najviša planina Sjeverne Njemačke. Vrh se često može uočiti samo u obrisima, jer se uvijek iznova gubi u magli. Zbog ove igre prirode nastale su legende o vješticama, koje su postale povod za Valpurginu noć koja se obilježava svake godine. Kao dodatnu zanimljivost možete posjetiti parnu željeznicu i 100-godišnji kameni vrt. Sudjelujte i u šetnji s rendžerom, ili u vožnji željeznicom na dionici od 130 km – sve do brda Brocken na kojem se nalazi najviša željeznička postaja u Njemačkoj. Osim izvanrednih susreta sa životinjskim svijetom, očekuju vas i druge zanimljivosti, naprimjer, srednjovjekovni gradovi s tipičnim njemačkim kućama samo djelomično izrađenim od drveta.

Legendary highlands

Apart from extraordinary encounters with animal world, many other interesting things await you, such as medieval towns with typical German houses only partially made of wood.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

KOLIKODOBRO POZNAJETE NJEMAČKU? Za vas smo izdvojili neke zanimljive pojedinosti i činjenice o Njemačkoj, kako biste što bolje upoznali ovu zemlju.

Njemačka je prva zemlja u svijetu koja je usvojila ljetno računanje vremena (DST). Ljetno računanje vremena usvojeno je 1916. godine, tokom Drugog svjetskog rata, i to radi ušede energije.

Germany was the first country in the world to adopt Daylight saving time – DST, also known as summer time. This occured in 1916 in the midst of WWI and was put in place to conserve energy.

Prison escape is not punishable by law in Germany – German law maintains that it’s a basic human instinct to be free and therefore, prisoners have the right to escape jail. Escapes, however, rarely go unpunished because prisoners are held liable if they cause damage to property or inflict bodily harm against any individual upon their breakout.

U Berlinu, glavnom gradu Njemačke, izgrađeno je više mostova nego u Veneciji. Berlin se može pohvaliti sa 960 mostova i 59,8 kvadratnih kilometara vodene površine koju čine jezera, te sa oko 180 kilometara plovnih puteva. The capital of Berlin has more bridges than Venice – Berlin boasts 960 bridges and 59.8 square kilometres of water consisting of lakes and around 180 kilometres of navigable waterways.

U Njemačkoj bijeg iz zatvora nije zakonski kažnjivo djelo. Njemački zakon podrazumijeva da je sloboda osnovni ljudski instinkt, te da stoga zatvorenici imaju pravo bježati iz zatvora. Ipak, bježanje rijetko prolazi nekažnjeno, jer se zatvorenici smatraju odgovornim za nanošenje štete imovini, kao i za nanošenje tjelesnih ozljeda drugim licima tokom bijega.

Njemačka je sedam puta mijenjala glavni grad. Svaki od sljedećih gradova u jednom je povijesnom trenutku imao ulogu glavnog

grada Republike Njemačke: Ahen, Regensburg, Frankfurt na Majni, Nuremberg, Berlin, Vajmar, te Bon (Istočni Berlin). Berlin je ponovo preuzeo ulogu njemačke prijestonice 1990. godine. Germany’s capital centre has shifted seven times – these cities have all at one time or another been capitals of the German republic: Aachen, Regensburg, Frankfurt-amMain, Nuremberg, Berlin, Weimar, Bonn (and East Berlin), and, since 1990, Berlin again.

Njemačka je poznata kao „das Land der Dichter und Denker“, odnosno kao zemlja pjesnika i mislilaca. Bah, Betoven i Gete bili su Nijemci, kao i kompozitori Hendl, Šuman, Mendelson, Brams, Vagner i Štraus. Njemački filozofi su među najpoznatijima u svijetu, krenuvši od Kanta i Hegela, preko Šopenhauera do Ničea i Hajdegera.

automated calculator, and the automobile. That’s not all – the Germans are also credited for the discovery of insulin, the invention of the clarinet, the pocket watch, television (partly), paraffin, petrol/gasoline & Diesel engines, the automobile engine, differential gear and other important devices, the motorcycle, the jet engine, the LCD screen and the Walkman.

HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW GERMANY? Here is a mix of informative and interesting facts to learn more about Germany.

Germany is sometimes known as ‘the land of poets and thinkers’ – or das land de dichter und denker; Bach, Beethoven and Goethe were all German, alongside composers Händel, Schumann, Mendelssohn, Brahms, Wagner and R. Strauss. Some of the world’s greatest German philosophers include Kant, Hegel, Schopenhauer, Nietzsche, and Heidegger.

Njemačka se može pohvaliti i nekim od najpoznatijih svjetskih izuzma. Nijemcima se možemo zahvaliti za sijalice, digitrone i automobile. Ali to nije sve – Nijemci su također zaslužni za izume kao što su inzulin, klarinet, džepni sat, (djelimično) televizija, parafin, benzinski i dizel motori, automobilski motori, diferencijal mjenjača, motocikli, mlazni motori, LCD ekrani i vokmeni. Germany boasts some of world’s most famous inventions – you can thank the Germans for the light bulb, the

Berlin posjeduje najveći zoološki vrt na svijetu – Der Zoologischer Garten Berlin. Njemačka se također može pohvaliti sa čak 400 registrovanih zooloških vrtova. Sveukupno, Njemačka ima blizu 700 objekata ovog tipa uključujući, pored zooloških vrtova, i parkove divljine, akvarijume, parkove ptica, rezervate, te safari parkove. Berlin’s Zoologischer Garten is the largest zoo in the world. Germany also boasts more than 400 registered zoos. Germany has total of nearly 700 facilities of this type, including, apart from zoological gardens, also wildlife parks, aquariums, bird parks, game reserves and safari parks.

Njemačka je najveća ekonomska sila Evropske unije, s bruto domaćim proizvodom (BDP) od 3,49 triliona eura (3,84 triliona američkih dolara). U svijetu zauzima četvrto mjesto, odmah nakon Sjedinjenih Američkih Država, Kine i Japana. Germany is the EU’s largest economy – with a gross domestic product (GDP) of EUR 3.49 trillion (USD 3.84 trillion), and is in fourth place in the world after the US, China and Japan.

Njemačka je jedan od najvećih svjetskih proizvođača automobila. U 2015. godini Njemačka je prodala 6 miliona automobila. VW Golf predstavlja jedan od najprodavanijih automobila svih vremena. U 2016. godini, Volkswagen, Audi, Mercedes i BMW su najprodavaniji brendovi automobila u Njemačkoj. Germany is one of the world’s largest car producers – selling 6 million cars in 2015. VW’s Golf is one of the best selling cars of all time. In 2016, the top-selling car brands in Germany were Volkswagen, Audi, Mercedes and BMW. .

10.

U Njemačkoj se održava mnoštvo kulturnih aktivnosti, a postoji više kulturnih objekata nego u bilo kojoj drugoj zemlji. Njemačka je zemlja kulture: posjeduje 6200 muzeja, 820 pozorišta, 130 profesionalnih orkestarskih sastava i 8800 biblioteka. Također, posjeduje više muzeja, izložbenih sala i umjetničkih galerija nego bilo koja druga zemlja, pri čemu ovi objekti nisu skoncentrisani samo u velikim gradovima. Pored toga, u Njemačkoj više ljudi posjećuju izložbe nego fudbalske utakmice. Germany has more cultural activities and places than any other country – it’s a cultured place, with 6,200 museums, 820 theatres, 130 professional orchestras and 8,800 libraries. There are more museums, exhibition halls and art galleries than in any other country (and not only in the big cities), with more people going to exhibitions than to soccer matches.

Saznajte više na: www.germany.travel

BOSNABROJA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA TEMA / COVER STORY

EUROPA-PARK

Magnum izdanje NJEMAČKIH ZABAVNIH PARKOVA AKO DO SADA NISTE BILI U EUROPA-PARKU U RUSTU, ONDA ŠTA ČEKATE?!

naj ko se ovdje čekira želi prije svega jedno: zabaviti se. No, to zagarantovano svakom gostu polazi za rukom, jer na površini od preko 95 hektara se može mnoštvo uzbudljivog doživjeti. Bolje reći, malo je želja koje vam ne može ispuniti ovaj gigant, koji već godinama slovi za jedno od omiljenih odredišta za porodice u kategoriji zabavnih parkova. Već na ulazu će vas pozdraviti velika statua park maskote – Euro miša. U unutrašnjosti je resort podijeljen po evropskim tematskim područjima, okićen i obogaćen sa 100 atrakcija i događaja iz snova koji prevazilaze i najveća očekivanja. Silver Star, fantastični 74

u Evropi drugi po veličini roller coaster, ili gigantski drveni roller coaster Wodan-Timburcoaster brz 100 km/h, divlji vodeni voz, vodeni roller coasteri i Looping roller coaster donose ogromne količine zabave i uzbuđenja. No, ništa manje nije uzbudljivo u simulatoru leta, 4D kinu kao i na mnogim drugim event stajalištima. Ko više preferira laganije momente, može za volanom nekog oldtimera doživjeti nostalgičnu vožnju. Krajem novembra do početka januara park se pretvara u bajkoviti zimski pejzaž s brojnim zimskim atrakcijama koje odgovaraju blagdanima poput Božića, te Novoj godini.

EUROPA-PARK

Magnum edition of

German amusement parks IF YOU HAVEN’T YET BEEN TO EUROPA-PARK IN RUST, THEN WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

Europa-Park u Rustu, između Freiburga i Offenburga, najveći je zabavni park na njemačkom govornom području i jedan je od rijetkih koji je otvoren zimi. Naprosto ljude privlači da uvijek iznova dolaze.

nybody who checks in here wants primarily one thing: to have fun. And, it is guaranteed that every guest manages to get exactly that, because the area of over 95 hectare (235 acres) offers many exciting things to experience. In other words, there are very few wishes that this giant cannot make come true, as it has been one of the favourite family destinations in category of amusement parks for years. You will be greeted at the entrance by a huge statue of the park’s mascot – Euro mouse. Inside, the resort is divided by European theme areas, decorated and enriched with 100 attractions and events straight out of dreams, that surpass even the biggest of expectations. Silver Star, the fantastic roller coaster, second in size in Europe, or a giant wooden roller coaster Wodan-Timburcoaster with speed of 100 km/h, wild water

train, water roller coasters and Looping roller coaster bring enormous quantities of fun and excitement. However, it is not less thrilling inside of the flight simulator, 4D cinema or at many other event stands. For those who prefer lighter moments, a ride behind the wheels of one of the oldtimers will provide a nostalgic drive. At the end of November and until beginning of January, the park turns into a fairytale like winter wonderland with numerous winter attractions which are suitable for holidays like Christmas and New Year’s. Europa-Park in Rust, situated between Freiburg and Offenburg, is the biggest amusement park in German-speaking regions and is one of very few who are open in winter time. People are simply drawn to come back there again and again.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

IZ NJEMAČKE KUHINJE...

Najslađa ZAVODNICA i tri ukusna mušketira Njemačku kuhinju odlikuje bogata i zanimljiva historija, koja je doprinijela raznolikosti kulinarske kulture u različitim regijama zemlje. Začeci jedinstvene njemačke kuhinje zabilježeni su u drugoj polovini 19. vijeka, zajedno s ujedinjenjem Njemačke u jednu državu. Ovog puta pišemo o poslastici koja je osvojila cijeli svijet, te neuobičajenim delicijama koje vrijedi probati

Frankfurtski zeleni sos Kako su zeleni sosevi poznati vjekovima u Italiji i Francuskoj, nije sigurno da li su njegov recept u Frankfurt donijeli francuski imigranti ili, ipak, italijanske trgovačke porodice. Najvažniji sastojak predstavlja sedam posebnih bilja latinskih naziva: Borago officinalis, Anthriscus cerefolium, Lepidium sativum, Petroselinum crispum, Sanguisorba minor, Rumex acetosa, te Allium schoenoprasum. Može se servirati uz paradajz i kuhana jaja, kuhanu govedinu ili ribu. Ukoliko pravite sos za dvoje, potrebno vam je: 76

250g bilja, 250g kiselog vrhnja s 20 do 25% masti, 150g jogurta, 2 dobro skuhana jaja, 1 kašikica soka od limuna, so i biber. Operite bilje i ostavite da se osuši na papirnatom ručniku. Odstranite ljusku s jaja, stavite žumance u zdjelu za miješanje, dodajte sok od limuna, 2/3 bilja, ¼ kašikice soli, te jogurt. Izmiksajte ručnim blenderom. Umiješajte kiselo vrhnje u smjesu. Dodajte isjeckano bjelance. Na kraju, dodajte preostalo isjeckano bilje, biber, so i sok od limuna. Držite u frižideru najmanje sat vremena.

Pharisäer & Eiergrog Svojevremeno jedno od simboličnih pića Frizijanaca, pharisäer, kako su ga zvali, sada vole svi širom Schleswig-Holsteina. Ovaj spoj vruće kafe s dodatkom ruma i šećera, ukrašen šlag kremom, najbolji je odgovor zimskoj hladnoći. Porijeklo vodi s poluotoka Sjevernog mora, Nordstranda, gdje se spominje u 19 vijeku. Popularan poput pharisäera, ili možda čak i više, heligolandski je eiergrog, vrući napitak od žumanca, šećera, ruma i vode. Dok neki upozoravaju da može poljuljati čak i snažnijeg muškarca, drugi misle da je jednostavno samo ukusan. Kako god, podignite čaše i kažite prost.

Švarcwald torta Riječ je o najslađoj zavodnici u Schwarzwaldu. Nije bitno gdje je nastala: već 1915. u Radolfzellu ili tridesetih godina u jednoj kafeteriji u Tübingenu, Švarcvald torta priču o svom svjetskom uspjehu počela je pisati iz Baden-Württemberga. Najvažniji sastojci su voda od trešanja Schwarzwalda, dajući joj neodoljiv ukus, kao i, naravno, trešnje. Koliko će ih sadržati jedna torta, odlučuje slastičar.

FROM GERMAN CUISINE...

The sweetest TEMPTRESS and three tasty musketeers German cuisine is distinguished by its rich and interesting history, which has contributed to the variety of culinary cultures in various regions of the country. The beginnings of an unique German cuisine were noted in second half of the 19th century, when Germany united into one country. This time we are writing about a sweet that has conquered the entire world, and unusual delicacies which are worth tasting

chopped herbs, pepper, salt and lemon juice. Keep refrigerated for at least one hour before serving.

Pharisäer & Eiergrog

Frankfurtski zeleni sos: © Relais & Châteaux Hotel Die Sonne Frankenberg

Frankfurter Green Sauce Green sauces have been famous in Italy and France for centuries, and thus it is uncertain whether its recipe was brought to Frankfurt by French immigrants or Italian merchant families. The most important ingredients are the seven special herbs with Latin names: Borago officinalis, Anthriscus cerefolium, Lepidium sativum, Petroselinum crispum, Sanguisorba minor, Rumex acetosa and Allium schoenoprasum. It can be served with tomatoes and boiled eggs, stewed beef or

fish. If you are making a sauce for two, you will need: 250 g herbs, 250 g sour cream with 20-25% fat, 150 g yoghurt, 2 hard boiled eggs, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, salt and pepper Rinse the herbs and leave to dry on a paper towel. Peel the eggs, add the yolks into a mixing bowl, add lemon juice, 2/3 of herbs, ¼ teaspoon of salt and yoghurt. Mix well with a hand blender. Mix in sour cream and add chopped egg whites. Finally, add the remaining

Once a symbolic drink of Frisians, pharisäer, as they called it, is now well liked by all in a wide area of Schleswig-Holstein. This concoction of hot coffee with added rum and sugar, decorated by whipped cream, is the best answer to winter’s coldness. It originates from the North Sea peninsula, Nordstrand, where it was noted in 19th century. A hot drink made of egg yolk, sugar, rum and water, Heligoland’s eiergrog, is as popular as pharisäera, if not even more so. While some warn that it can make a strong man sway, others think that it is simply delicious. Whatever may be, raise your glasses and say prost!

Schwarzald Cake (Black Forest Cake) This is the sweetest temptress in Schwarzwald. It does not matter where it originated: whether it was as early as 1915. in Radolfzell or in the ‘thirties in a cafeteria in Tübingen, Schwarzwald cake began writing the story of its worldly success from Baden-Württemberg. The most important ingredients are the Schwarzwald cherry water, which gives it an irresistable taste, and, of course, the cherries. How many will one cake contain, is decided by a confectioner.

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EDITORIJAL / EDITORIAL

Samir Zahirović, fotograf

Objektiv, moj prozor u svijet On nastoji predočavati svijet fotografijom prema kojoj se ljubav počela razvijati još u osnovnoj školi. Danas je profesionalno usmjeren ka fotografisanju arhitekture i 360° panorama, te je vlasnik domene www.pano360.ba. Također, prvi je licencirani Google Trusted fotograf u BiH. “Svaki motiv je specifičan, a fotograf ga pokazuje onako kako ga vidi kroz objektiv”, smatra Samir, nositelj međunarodnog umjetničkog zvanja AFIAP. Iza njega su brojne izložbe, preko 50 kolektivnih, a imao je i dvije samostalne.

Samir Zahirović, Photographer

Lense - my window to the world He is trying to show the world with his photograph, which he fell in love with back in his elementary school days. Today he is professionally directed to photographing architecture and 360° panorama, and owns a www.pano360.ba page. Also, he is the first licensed Google Trusted photographer in BiH. “Every motif is specific, and the photographer shows it the way he sees it through the lens”, deems Samir, bearer of international artistic title AFIAP. He has had numerous exhibitions, over 50 collective ones and two independent ones

FOTO/PHOTO BY: SAMIR ZAHIROVIÄ&#x2020;; SREBRENIK, STARI GRAD

FOTO/PHOTO BY: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ; FERHADIJA, ŠADRVAN

FOTO/PHOTO BY: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ; VIŠEGRAD, MOST MEHMED-PAŠE SOKOLOVIĆA

FOTO/PHOTO BY: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ; ETNO SELO STANIŠIĆI

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

NAŠE SARAJEVO

KAFA s pogledom NA GRAD Sarajevo ima sreću da je okruženo brdima, a sarajevska brda imaju sreću da su prostrta mahalama. Mahale imaju sreću da mogu gledati Sarajevo. A gdje smo mi u toj silnoj sreći? Mi smo sretni što možemo proći kroz mahale, popeti se na brdo i gledati Sarajevo. Ako znamo i umijemo. S ljubavlju Piše: Vedran JAKUPOVIĆ

ogled na Šeher možemo baciti s vratničke desne ili s bistričke lijeve strane. U zadnje vrijeme izgradnjom visokih zgrada Šeher je dobio i pogled s terase, “uz Miljacku”.

UZ MAHSUZ POGLED MAHSUZ KOLAČ Nakon Eugenove paljevine Sarajeva vratnički grad opasan je zidinama. U sam Vratnik ulazilo se kroz tri kapije, a utvrde su dodatno utvrdile sarajevske tabije, njih pet. U ovom 86

vremenu od tih pet tabija četiri su dobile svoje kafane i restorane s pogledom na grad. Jedino još Strošićka tabija čeka svoga gazdu. Ispod zida Arnaut tabije, na kojoj je Das ist Walter Jajce kasarna, smještena je mala kafanica Kamarija – point of view. Kamarija bi bila mahalski doksat. U kamariji gledaš uz ulicu, niz ulicu i na mjesec (kamer), a tebe niko ne vidi. Ova kamarija gleda na grad. Koliko god ona gleda na grad, toliko je i sama vidljiva iz Čaršije. Čini se kao da lebdi iznad stijena u strmini ispod tabijskih zidina. Tek kad sjedneš na

terasu vidiš da je gusta bagremova i jasenova šuma, u kojoj je Kamarija sagrađena, dala i hladovinu gostima kao i oslonac samom objektu. Uz mahsuz pogled idu mahsuz kolač i prirodni sok od dunje. Dunja malo skuplja usta, ali čovjek na takvom mjestu i treba biti skupljenih usta i širom otvorenih očiju. Na izlasku iz vratničkog grada, ispod tabije Zmajevac, još uvijek postoji ostatak zida koji je opasavao i štitio grad. U zidu je ugrađena česma, a sam zid više ne čuva grad nego saksije s cvijećem i ne odvaja vratnički grad od Sedrenika i

Ravnih Bakija, nego dva dijela bašte kafane Vidikovac na Zmajevcu. Ovo je najviša tačka Vratnika i mjesto odakle se pogled ne završava samo na Čaršiji, nego obuhvata cijelo Sarajevo, do Ilidže, Igmana, a za lijepog vremena i dalje ka zapadu. Posebno je interesantno jednim pogledom obuhvatiti i Vijećnicu, i Marijin dvor, i avion koji slijeće na sarajevski aerodrom. Mlađe meraklije će gledajući Šeher uživati uz nargilu, a starijima je dovoljna kafa, kraća, žestoka.

džamiju, ako ništa onda kada se čovjek umori od drugih zadanih pravaca. Ograda na terasi je staklena i ne kvari ugođaj, a kao dodatak kafi i pogledu česti su nastupi vrhunskih muzičara. Kvalitet zasigurno zadovoljava i najveće muzičke tersove. Uzbrdo od bistričke stanice, nakon restorana Park Prinčeva, a na nekadašnjem streljačkom poligonu osmanske vojske Nišan, nalazi se jedna od najstarijih kafana u Sarajevu. Mjesto kod Bibana naši pradjedovi koristili su za teferiče još u vrijeme fesova i čalmi. Put iz mahale vodi na rub, liticu, kraj

POČETAK MERAKA Sam dolazak do Vidikovca može predstavljati avanturu. Ljudima koji su u dobroj kondiciji preporučujemo polazak s Čaršije uz Kovače, ravno do Ploče, ravno uzbrdo do Strošićke tabije, pa opet uzbrdo uz zid do Vidikovca. Ko preživi, pričat će… I uživati. Na bistričkoj strani prva stanica za pogled je stara željeznička stanica. Objekat koji svojom ljepotom dominira tranzitom. Bistrička stanica je i raskršće koje vodi do dva idealna mjesta za kafu s pogledom. Lijevo prema istoku i kanjonu Miljacke uz cestu je Café Liberty. Dominira iznad Alifakovca i pod čudnim uglom pruža pogled na čaršijsko jezgro, na Vratnik, ali i na Bistrik. Posebno je fascinantan predakšamski pogled na Brdo

puta i početak meraka. Pogled iz ove kafane daje dubinu kanjona Miljacke, blizinu Čaršije i daljinu sarajevske kotline, sve u jednom. Niz Miljacku se nižu mostovi koji čine čaroliju ovog pogleda potpunom. Na drugoj strani pred okom je Trebević i najpoznatiji sarajevski vidikovac koji čeka svoju žičaru. Uz kafu kod Bibana obavezno ide pita od suhih šljiva. Možda se možete zapitati zašto spominjemo samo kafu i tek rijetke delicije, ali primarno čulo koje bi na ovim mjestima trebalo biti zadovoljeno je čulo vida. Okus i miris dolaze kao dodatak. Možda bi bilo pravilnije, umjesto kafa s pogledom, reći pogled s kafom. 87

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

OUR SARAJEVO

COFFEE WITH a view of the city Sarajevo has the luck to be surrounded by hills, and Sarajevo hills have the luck to be spread by mahalas 1 . Mahalas have the luck to be able to view Sarajevo. And where are we in that outburst of luck? We are lucky to be able to walk through mahalas, to climb up the hill and watch Sarajevo. If we can and know how. With love Written by: Vedran JAKUPOVIĆ

e can view Šeher2 from Vratnik’s right or Bistrik’s left side. Lately, with the construction of high rises, Šeher got the view from a terrace, “by Miljacka”.

SPECIAL VIEW WITH A SPECIAL DESSERT After prince Eugene of Savoy’s arson of Sarajevo, Vratnik’s town was girded by walls. One had to pass three gates to enter Vratnik, and forts were additionally fortified by Sarajevo’s tabijas3, five of them. Nowadays, of those five tabijas four got their cafés and taverns with a view of the city. Only Strošić tabija still awaits its laird. Under the Arnaut tabija wall, where „Das ist Walter“ Jajce barracks are, there is a little café Kamarija – point of view. Kamarija is a sort

of mahala doksat 4. In kamarija you look up the street, down the street and at the Moon (kamer), and nobody can see you. This kamarija looks at the city. As much as it looks at the city, kamarija itself can be seen from Čaršija 5. It seems to be floating above the rocks at the gradients of tabija walls. It is only when you sit at the terrace that you can see how much the lush acacia and ash tree forest, in which Kamarija was built, gives the shade to its guests, as

well as the support to the building itself. With the special view goes the special dessert and natural quince juice. The quince shrinks the mouth somewhat, but a man in such a place should have his mouth shrunk and his eyes wide open. At the exit of Vratnik town, below tabija Zmajevac, there are still remnants of the wall which girded and shielded the city. A drinking fountain was built into the wall, and the wall itself protects not the city anymore, but the flower pots, and it does not divide Vratnik town from Sedrenik and Ravne Bakije, but two parts of the Vidikovac café in Zmajevac. This is the highest point of Vratnik and a place where the view does not end at Čaršija, but stretches around the entire Sarajevo, to Ilidža, Igman, and when the weather is good, further to the

(1) Old-fashioned town quarters with narrow streets and rowed houses with front gardens; (2) Turkish (from Persian) for city, also another name for Sarajevo in Sarajevo jargon; (3) Fort, stronghold; (4) Tur., type of balcony, usually on first floor, customary in islamic architecture; (5) Turkish (from Persian) for town square, market, street with shops and workshops; short for Baščaršija, Sarajevo's old town; (6) Pleasure derived from simple joys, such as spending time feasting and merrymaking.

West. It is especially interesting to envelop in one view the City Hall and Marijin dvor and the airplane that is landing in Sarajevo airport. Younger hedonists will smoke hookas while viewing Šeher, and the older ones are happy enough with coffee, short and strong one.

THE BEGINNING OF MERAK 6 The arrival to Vidikovac itself can present an adventure. To fit people we recommend starting from Čaršija via Kovači, straight

to Ploče, right ahead up the hill to Strošić tabija, and then further uphill by the wall to Vidikovac. Those who survive will have a tale to tell… And enjoy. On Bistrik side, the first viewing stop is the old railway station. It is a building that dominates the transit with its beauty. Bistrik station is also a crossroad that leads to two ideal spots for coffee with a view. Left to the East and Miljacka canyon there is a Café Liberty by the road. It dominates above Alifakovac and provides view, at an strange angle, at Čaršija’s core, Vratnik, but also Bistrik. Especially fascinating is the pre-dusk view at Brdo mosque, if only as an alternative to look at after one tires of looking at other directions. The fence on the terrace is made of glass and thus does not spoil the atmosphere, and as addition to coffee and the view, they offer frequent performances by top musicians. Their quality is sure to satisfy even the pickiest of music fans. Up the hill from Bistrik station, past restaurant Park Prinčeva, and

at the once a shooting polygon of Ottoman army called Nišan, there is one of the oldest cafés in Sarajevo. Mjesto kod Bibana (Biban’s Place) was used for gatherings by our great-grandfathers even back at the fez and turban times. The road from mahala leads to the edge, the cliff, the end of the road, and the beginning of merak. The view from this café gives the depth of the Miljacka canyon, the proximity of Čaršija and the distance of Sarajevo pit, all at once. Down the river Miljacka the line up of bridges makes the magic of this view complete. On the other side, one’s eye can look at Trebević and the most famous Sarajevo viewpoint which awaits its cable car. With coffee at Biban’s it is obligatory to take a prune pie. You may perhaps wonder why we only mention coffee and very few food delicacies, but the primary sense that should be satisfied in these places is the sense of sight. The taste and the smell come as an extra. Perhaps it would be more adequate to state a view with a coffee instead of coffee with a view. 89

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

KLOPA

MJESTO DOBRE HRANE!

Šetajući Ferhadijom od Vječne vatre prema Ekonomskom fakultetu, na lijevoj strani ulice vaš pogled odlutat će prema restoranu koji vam svoju priču počinje pričati i prije nego što uđete. Obećavajućeg naziva – Klopa, ugostiteljski objekat kojim dominira opuštajuća atmosfera spreman je da razmazi bogatom ponudom i najprobirljivije goste. Među njima je također veliki broj stranaca od kojih mnogi nisu oklijevali da izdvoje vrijeme i svoje pozitivne komentare ispišu na najvećoj stranici na svijetu posvećenoj putovanjima – TripAdvisoru. Klopa je otvorena u januaru prošle godine, a za njen topli 90

dizajn pobrinuo se arhitekta Amir Vuk Zec. Reputaciju koju gradi od početka svakog dana čuva i dodatno gradi desetoročlani tim posvećenih radnika. Jela koja će vam ovdje poslužiti spravljaju se u krušnoj peći, ili na roštilju. Uz ona popularna – razne pizze, kvalitetne sendviče, ukusne plate..., šerpice predstavljaju poseban izazov. Tu se, između ostalih, svrstavaju vege mlinci, pileći mlinci, thai biftek i zelena šerpica, dok se od gotovih jela svaki dan nude po dva drugačija obroka kao i po tri različite supe. Zadovoljni će biti i ljubitelji mesa kao i vegetarijanci. Dobra hrana, dobar osjećaj, to je Klopa.

U restoranu Klopa veoma posjećenu radionicu na temu Obrada sirove hrane održala je Maja Volk, glavna kuharica Novaka Đokovića.

RESTORAN KLOPA Adresa: Ferhadija 5 Radno vrijeme: 9:30-23:00 Telefon: 033/ 223 633

KLOPA

A PLACE WITH GOOD FOOD! Walking on Ferhadija street from Eternal Flame towards Faculty of Economics, on the left side of the street your eye will wonder towards a rastaurant which begins to tell its story even before you get in. With a promising name – Klopa (Grub/ Food), this restaurant, where the relaxing atmosphere dominates, is eager to spoil with its rich offerings even the pickiest of guests. Among them is a large number of foreigners of whom many did not hesitate to take their time and post their positive comments on the world’s biggest travel page – TripAdvisor. Klopa was opened in January last year, and its warm interior was designed by an architect Amir Vuk Zec. The reputation it has been building from the beginning

Restaurant Klopa held a very well visited workshop on topic Processing raw food by Maja Volk, a head chef of Novak Đoković.

is guarded daily and additionally formed by a ten-people team of dedicated employees. Meals that you will be served here are made in a baker’s oven or on grill. Along the popular meals – various pizzas, good quality sandwiches, tasty platters..., little pots are a true challenge. In those, among other things, you can find veggie mlinci (thin dried flatbread), chicken mlinci, thai steak and green pot, and as for prepared meals, every day they offer two different meals and three different soups. Meat lovers will be just as satisfied as vegetarians. Good food, good feeling, that’s Klopa!

RESTAURANT KLOPA Address: Ferhadija 5 Hours: 9:30-23:00 Phone: 033/ 223 633 91

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

IZLETIŠTA U OKOLINI BANJE LUKE

Bajkovite oaze na dohvat ruke U BLIŽOJ OKOLINI BANJE LUKE NALAZI SE NEKOLIKO TURISTIČKI ATRAKTIVNIH IZLETIŠTA. PAŽNJU PLIJENE NE SAMO PRIRODNIM LJEPOTAMA, NEGO I RAZNOLIKOŠĆU SADRŽAJA KOJI SU NA RASPOLAGANJU POSJETITELJIMA I TURISTIMA Piše: Daša GAJIĆ

BANJ BRDO I TREŠNJIK Banj brdo pruža posjetiteljima predivni panoramski pogled na Banju Luku, što čini ovo izletište jednim od najpopularnijih i najposjećenijih. Izletište

okruženo šumom, sa stazama za šetnju i planinaranje, predstavlja idealan izbor za odmor i relaksaciju, ali i rekreaciju i sportske aktivnosti. Na Banj brdu se nalazi i memorijalni spomenik palim Krajišnicima u NOB-u. Autor spomenika je svjetski priznati kipar i akademik Antun Augustinčić (1900 – 1979). Izgrađen 1961. godine, napravljen je od bijelog bračkog kamena, a njegovu unutrašnjost oslikao je slikar Ismar Mujezinović. Udaljenost spomenika od centra Banje Luke je oko pet kilometara. Svaki pređeni kilometar se zaboravi u onom momentu kada se ukaže neopisivi pogled na grad sa spomenika. Banjalučki kraj nekada je bio poznat po trešnjama i upravo po njima Trešnjik je dobio svoj naziv. Ovo izletište je oaza mira i zelenila, koje posjećuju brojni ljubitelji prirode.

IZLETIŠTE REKAVICE Na dvadesetak kilometara od centra Banje Luke, na putu prema Jajcu, nalazi se izletište Rekavice sa sportskim terenima, bazenom i paintball terenom. Ovo izletište je posebno atraktivno posjetiteljima koji su se odlučili za aktivan odmor.

KRUPA NA VRBASU Bajkoviti prizor netaknute prirode i zelenila, šum hladne vode i slapovi od kojih svaki kao da želi da ispriča priču turistima i posjetiteljima koji ih sa oduševljenjem posmatraju. Sve to, a i mnogo više vas očekuje ukoliko se uputite do Krupe na

Vrbasu, 25 kilometara od Banje Luke, na putu prema Jajcu. Popularno lokalno izletište tokom godina se transformisalo u značajnu turističku destinaciju, koja pored domaćih privlači i strane turiste. Spoj prirodnih ljepota i kulturnog naslijeđa, učinit će vaš boravak u Krupi na Vrbasu nezaboravnim iskustvom. Srednjovjekovni gradovi Greben i Zvečaj, manastir Svetog Ilije i mlinovi na vodi, samo su dio neočekivano bogate i raznovrsne ponude ovog posebnog izletišta. Za most udaljen dva kilometra od Krupe na Vrbasu veže se legenda koja i dan-danas živi. Kameni most, poznatiji kao Djevojački most, predstavlja pravo čudo prirode, koje je nastalo erozivnim dejstvom vode i vjetra. U narodu postoji vjerovanje da je djevojka zbog neuzvraćene ljubavi skočila s Kamenog mosta i zbog toga se naziva i Djevojački most. Ukoliko ogladnite od šetnje i rekreacije, a želite da probate nešto domaće, svakako probajte heljdine uštipke s kajmakom i pršutom kao i svježu pastrmku u restoranu Krupski slapovi. Od mlinara možete kupiti heljdino, raženo, pšenično i kukuruzno brašno, svježe samljeveno na vodeničkom kamenu.

RANČ ČOKORI Svega desetak kilometara od centra Banje Luke nalazi se ranč Čokori, seosko domaćinstvo. Do ranča se dolazi preko naselja Lauš i Saračica. On predstavlja idealno mjesto za ljubitelje odmora u prirodi, ali i za posjetitelje koji pored odmora žele dodatne sadržaje. Na raspolaganju su dvorište, natkrivena terasa, zatvorena sala, igralište za djecu, bašta s plastenikom, voćnjak i teren za rekreaciju, kao i manji smještajni kapaciteti. Seosko domaćinstvo je veoma čisto i uredno, s mnogo cvijeća i zelenila. Postoji mogućnost organizovanja rođendana i različitih vrsta proslava u ambijentu ranča. Najmlađi najviše uživaju u posjeti ovom ranču, gdje se, između ostalog, mogu družiti s domaćim

životinjama, posebno ruskim Romanovski ovcama. Posjete seoskom domaćinstvu potrebno je prethodno najaviti ljubaznim domaćinima.

IZLETIŠTE DUBOKA Izletište Duboka se nalazi desetak kilometara od Banje Luke, prema Bronzanom Majdanu. Prirodni ambijent, zelenilo i bilje, rječica Duboka, kamp, kupalište, roštiljski prostor i restoran s terasom su samo jedan dio sadržaja namijenjenih posjetiteljima ovog izletišta.

MLINSKA RIJEKA Turističko, ugostiteljsko, rekreativni centar Mlinska Rijeka nalazi se na pruzi Banja Luka – Doboj i tridesetom kilometru puta Banja Luka – Prnjavor (preko Čelinca i Vijačana). Staze za pješačenje i trčanje, sportski tereni i bazeni su na raspolaganju posjetiteljima koji teže aktivnom odmoru. Ovo izletište je interesantno i prilagođeno i za najmlađe posjetitelje, kojima su na raspolaganju pored dječijeg bazena također tobogani, ljuljačke, klackalice i pijesak za igru.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BANJ BRDO AND TRESNJIK

RESORTS SURROUNDING BANJA LUKA

The fabulous

Banj Brdo offers an amazing panoramic view of Banja Luka, making it one of the most popular and most visited outing sites. It is surrounded by a forest, and furrowed with walking and hiking trails. As such, this place is an ideal choice for rest and relaxation, and likewise for recreational and sports activities. Moreover, it is a home to memorial of Krajina people who died fighting for National Liberation. The memorial was created by a world known sculptor and academic Antun Augustincic (1900-1979). Built in 1961, it was made of white stone. The inside of the memorial was painted by Ismar Mujezinovic, a well-known painter. The memorial is five kilometers away from the centre of Banja Luka. However, the stunning view of the city from this hill makes you forget all the distance you had crossed. In the past, the area of Banja Luka was well-known for its cherries. This is how the settlement Tresnjik got its name: tresnja is Bosnian word for cherry. This site is a true haven of peace and greenery, visited by a number of nature lovers.

Oasis within reach

REKAVICE

SEVERAL RESORTS ATTRACTIVE TO TOURISTS ARE HIDDEN NEAR BANJA LUKA. THEY ARE CALLING FOR OUR ATTENTION; NOT ONLY THEIR NATURAL BEAUTY, BUT THE ASSORTED FACILITIES AT DISPOSAL TO VISITORS AND TOURISTS

KRUPA ON VRBAS

Written by: Daša GAJIĆ

Rekavice is a resort hidden approximately 20 kilometers away from Banja Luka, on the road to Jajce. The resort offers sports grounds, a swimming pool and a paintball area. This resort is particularly attractive to visitors wishing for an active vacation

A wonderful scenery of unspoiled nature, sounds of cold water and waterfalls, each telling a story to enchanted visitors and tourists. You can expect such or even more

Nevertheless, the ranch is the most enjoyed by children who, among other things, have the opportunity to play with farm animals, especially with Russian Romano sheeps. It is important to keep in mind that any visits to the ranch should be arranged in advance with its kind owners.

DUBOKA RESORT magnificent experience once you decide to visit Krupa on Vrbas. It is a place 25 kilometers away from Banja Luka, on the way to Jajce. Over the years, a popular local picnic area grew into an important tourist destination, attractive to both local and foreign visitors. A mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage will make your stay in Krupa on Una an unforgettable experience. Medieval cities Greben and Zvecaj, Monastery of st. Elias and water mills are just a small part of an unexpectedly rich and diverse offer of this extraordinary place. There is a living legend related to a bridge situated two kilometers away. The Stone Bridge, or the Girl’s Bridge, is a true miracle of nature. The bridge was created naturally, by wind and water erosion. According to a tale passed by the locals, a long ago, a

girl who suffered from an unrequited love, jumped from this bridge. Thus, the bridge is also known as the Girl’s Bridge. If you get hungry after the walks and recreation, and get in the mood to taste the local cuisine, you should certainly visit a restaurant named Krupski slapovi. Once there, take a bite of buckwheat fritters with cream cheese and smoked ham, or simply order a fresh trout. Furthermore, here you can buy freshly grounded buckwheat, rye, wheat or corn flour directly from local millers.

Duboka resort is situated approximately 10 kilometers away from Banja Luka, on the way to Bronzani Majdan. The ambience of nature, trees, a small river, a camp, a swimming area, place for BBQ and a restaurant with a terrace are only few of many facilities available to visitors of this resort.

COKORI RANCH Ranch Cokori is located approximately 10 kilometers away from Banja Luka centre. It is a typical rural household, which can be reached through Laus and Saracica settlements. The ranch represents an ideal place for anyone who likes resting in nature, but also for people who are keen on some activities apart from relaxation. It is surrounded by a courtyard, a covered terrace, an indoor hall, a children’s playground, gardens with a greenhouse, an orchard, an area for recreation and has small accommodation capacities. The ranch is quite clean and neat, with lots of flowers and greenery. In addition, it is possible to organise birthday parties or any other celebrations within the ranch area.

MLINSKA RIJEKA A tourist and recreational centre with accommodation capacities named Mlinska Rijeka is located on Banja Luka-Doboj railway, 30 kilometers away if by the road Banja Luka-Prnjavor (road over Celinac and Vijacani). Hiking and running trails, sports grounds and swimming pools are available to visitors looking for an active vacation. This resort is quite interesting, and well adapted to the youngest visitors: apart from the swimming pool for children, they can also enjoy slides, swings, teeters, and play in the sand.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

NESVAKIDAŠNJA LJEPOTA I RIJEDAK FENOMEN

Ove nesvakidašnje prizore rijetko ćete biti u prilici da vidite. Riječ je o jedinstvenoj ergeli “Borike” u blizini Rogatice. Osnovana je davne 1918. i u njoj se odgajaju bosansko-brdski i arapski konji. Svojevremeno su redovno pobjeđivali na domaćim i inostranim poljoprivrednim sajmovima. Inače, ova ergela jedina se u BiH bavi uzgojem bosansko-brdskog konja, jedinom bh. autohtonom pasminom konja, koja slovi za otpornog, izdržljivog i snažnog konja. Ovo je prekrasno mjesto za jahanje i vožnju fijakerom.

EXTRAORDINARY BEAUTY AND RARE PHENOMENON

You will hardly ever experience such remarkable impressions anywhere else, as in this unique stud farm near Rogatica. The stud farm was founded in 1918, for the purpose of breeding Bosnian mountain horses and Arab horses. In the past, these horses were constant winners of both local and international agricultural fairs. Moreover, this stud farm is the only place in B&H raising Bosnian mountain horses, the only domestic indigenous breed. These horses are known as resistant, durable and strong. Additionally, this is a very beautiful place for horse and carriage rides.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

STOLAC

IZNAD STOCA SUNCE SIJA, A ISPOD KAMENA LEŽI HISTORIJA Piše: Elma ZEĆO

ođete li ljeti, šetajući uz rijeku Bregavu udisat ćete topli zrak koji miriše na more. Mlinice, smokve – slatki plod ljeta, krošnje, razno zeleno bilje prate vas u korak, a žamor kupača koji dopire s obližnjih plaža mami da i vi zaplivate. Posljednjih godina najaktuelnije su – u narodu poznate kao – Kreševac, Kukavac, gdje je uprkos poprilično klizavim ‘rorama’, ravnoj površini ispod vode, gradska raja uvijek izvodila dobre skokove na glavu ili pravila salto, potom Pjene, čuvene po posebno hladnoj vodi i svojim malim vodopadima ispod kojih se možete provlačiti, skriti nakratko od sunca ili poigravati s vodom. 98

BEGOVSKI POSJED Stiče se dojam da se kombinovano odrasli i djeca najvećim dijelom okupljaju na plaži u Begovini, graditeljskoj stambenoj cjelini koja je proglašena nacionalnim spomenikom države. Begovinu, samo jednu od mnogih znamenitosti mediteranskog grada, gdje kontinuitet prisutnosti ljudske zajednice seže čak 16.000 godina u prošlost, izgradila je za vrijeme Osmanskog carstva aristokratska porodica Rizvanbegović kao svoj izdvojeni niz kuća, s konacima i velikim baščama. Ulaskom u Begovinu iza sebe ostavljate Begovsku ćupriju, jedan od

PUTOVANJE KROZ HERCEGOVINU DOVEST ĆE VAS DO GRADIĆA NASTALOG NA OBALAMA RIJEKE BREGAVE, STOCA. KADA SE SPOMENE NJEGOVO IME, PAST ĆE VAM NA PAMET MNOGE STVARI, ALI ZASIGURNO NAJPRIJE HISTORIJA, KULTURA I MEDITERANSKA KLIMA, TRI ODLIKE KOJE SU GA ODUVIJEK ČINILE JEDNIM OD NAJPRIVLAČNIJIH MJESTA ZA POSJETITI U NAŠOJ ZEMLJI

lijepih stolačkih kamenih mostova. Za vrijeme rata Begovina je uništena i njena obnova traje još uvijek.

DOBRODOŠLICA KAMENIH SPAVAČA Znakovi historije nalaze se svuda po gradu kao i njegovoj okolini. Ako dolazite iz pravca Mostara ili Čapljine, u grad ne možete ući a da vam na desnoj strani oči ne ostanu na nekropoli stećaka, srednjovjekovnih nadgrobnih spomenika, Radimlja, koja se prostire neposredno uz cestu. I ovo historijsko područje proglašeno je, naravno, nacionalnim spomenikom.

Foto: Samir Zahirović

tu su pronađeni i ostaci brojnih amfora za vino i dijelova fine keramike. Također, ovo je mjesto pronalaska ostataka granitne skulpture Kadma i Harmonije, ali i ilirskog reljefa s trinaest zmija i pet pari orlovskih krila. Ipak, kao najvredniji nalaz izdvaja se bronzana kaciga ukrašena nizom likova grčke mitologije, poput Afrodite, Nike, Helija, Dioniza, Muza, Pegaza i drugih.

STAROGRADSKE KULE

Na nekropoli se nalaze 133 stećka. Ukrašena su 63. Motivi koji se susreću su arhitektonski ukrasi, stilizovani križevi, ljudske i životinjske figure, vinova loza, motivi iz lova i s oružjem, dok se zaštitnim znakom nekropole smatra muška figura s uzdignutom rukom. Zbog nje, ruke koja vjerovatno pozdravlja i izražava dobrodošlicu, putnik namjernik već vjekovima stiže u kršni kraj, gdje je ljubaznost postala tradicionalno dobro.

NEZAVISNI DAORSI Idući uz brdo Ošanići, doći ćete do ostataka Daorsona, svojevremeno glavnog grada heleniziranog ilirskog plemena Daorsa, koje je živjelo od 300. do 50. godine prije nove ere u dolini rijeke Neretve. Povrh Stoca izgradilo je svoj megalitski grad s akropolom, danas nacionalni spomenik, opasanom ‘kiklopskim’ zidinama od golemih kamenih blokova, gdje su se nalazili svi važniji upravni, javni i vjerski objekti. Njihov odbrambeni zid bio je dug 65 metara i imao je vrata kao i tornjeve na oba kraja. Da su Daorsi bili nezavisni, imali razvijeno zanatstvo, kulturu i trgovinu s drugim narodima, svjedoči pronađeni novac. Novac predstavlja samo dio zanimljivih predmeta koje je krilo ovo arheološko područje. Kako su Daorsi preuzeli grčki jezik i pismo, upražnjavali stalne trgovačke veze s Grcima,

I historijsko područje Stari grad Stolac, odbrambeni objekat koji po svojoj veličini spada u red najvećih bosanskohercegovačkih gradova, ubraja se u nacionalne spomenike države. Zaštićen lancem kamenih kula i bedema na uzvišenju iznad grada, nudi vam fantastičan pogled na naselje, rijeku Bregavu, Komanje brdo, brdo Ošanići i planinu Hrgud. Način na koji je urađen upućuje na postojanje više građevinskih etapa. Stari grad ima i svoje cisterne (čatrnje) za vodu, magacin za brašno, objekte za stanovanje, te džamiju, poslije čijeg su stradanja 1906. godine vidljivi samo ostaci. Na Stari grad se ide pješke. Za osvajanje centralnog dijela dobro je ako ste u kondiciji, no iako je nemate uz male pauze neće biti problem uspeti se. Obavezno ponesite vode sa sobom, a poželjno je i da obučete patike.

SUDBINA MOSHE DANONA Budete li se željeli osvježiti, učinite to u jednom od čaršijskih lokala. Na najbolja mjesta uputit će vas lokalno stanovništvo, samo pitajte. I nemojte otići iz Stoca a da ne posjetite još jedan nacionalni spomenik koji se nalazi dva kilometra od njegovog centra, tačnije na Krajšini. To je grob Moshe Danona, sarajevskog rabina koji je bio veoma cijenjen član jevrejske zajednice s početka XIX vijeka. Prema podacima Komisije za očuvanje nacionalnih spomenika,

PEĆINSKE PORUKE Ako ste bili đak u BiH i ako se pokušate prisjetiti časova historije, vjerovatno ćete se sjetiti pominjanja pećine Badanj, gdje je pronađen najstariji spomenik likovne umjetnosti u našoj zemlji – gravirani crtež na stijeni. Riječ je tačnije o polupećini, udubljenju u stijeni kanjona Bregave, oko 45 metara iznad njenog korita. Datira iz kasnog perioda mlađeg paleolita, 13.000 do 12.000 godina prije nove ere. Nalazište je otkriveno 1976. godine. Crtež vjerovatno predstavlja figuru konja napadnutog strelicama. Nije savršeno reproducirana, što, smatra se, i nije bilo važno za tadašnjeg čovjeka. Važnije je bilo vizualiziranje ovladavanja životinjama i prikazivanje nadmoći nad prirodom.

imenovan je za hamambašija 1815. godine. Petnaest godina kasnije, u vrijeme teških prilika za jevrejsku zajednicu na teritoriji Bosne i Hercegovine, pošao je pješke na put u Palestinu, u Eretz Izrael, želeći umrijeti i biti pokopan u Svetoj zemlji. Na tom putu je umro, na mjestu gdje je i sahranjen. Spomenik su mu podigli sunarodnici deset godina nakon njegove smrti kada je ovo mjesto postalo hodočašće Jevreja sefarda iz BiH, ali i ostalih krajeva u kojima su sefardi živjeli. O tome svjedoče također stare fotografije iz vremena prije Drugog svjetskog rata na kojima se vidi velika masa ljudi okupljena oko spomenika. Kao što možete vidjeti, Stolac predstavlja galeriju starih priča. Stoga, ako dođete, povedite se za onim što je svojevremeno rekao Winston Churchill: “Proučavaj historiju, proučavaj historiju. U historiji leže sve tajne državništva.” 99

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

STOLAC

STOLAC: WHERE SUN SHINES

UPON ROCKS WHICH REMEMBER

AGE OLD TALES…

AS THE ROAD THROUGH HERZEGOVINA UNFOLDS BENEATH YOUR FEET, YOU WILL GET TO A SMALL TOWN WHICH EMERGED ON THE BANKS OF THE BREGAVA RIVER, THE TOWN OF STOLAC. THE MERE MENTION OF ITS NAME EVOKES THE FAMILIAR MENTAL IMAGES OF HISTORY, CULTURE AND MEDITERRANEAN CLIMATE; THE VERY THREE THINGS THAT MADE IT STAND OUT AS ONE OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PLACES TO SEE IN OUR COUNTRY

Written by: Elma ZEĆO

hose who decide to visit during summertime will be able to enjoy the comforting warm summer breeze bringing hypnotising fragrance of the Adriatic, as they stroll down the Bregava riverside. Just imagine this: sweet flavour of fresh figs, calming shade of canopies, soft rustling of countless greenery, and coming from a distance – clamour of swimmers, enjoying nearby beaches, so inviting that all you can think of is finding refreshment in crystal clear cool water. The most popular beaches these days are Kreševac and Kukavac, where, despite smooth and slippery bottom, town people enjoy impressing the crowd with their diving abilities, as they plunge and twist into the cold water beneath. Another popular town beach is Pjene, famous for particularly cold water and small waterfalls which can serve as a good place to hide from the scorching sun of just play in splashing water.

BEYS’ ESTATE One gets the impression that most adults and children prefer the beach in Begovina (Beys’ Estate), residential compound and the acclaimed national monument, protected by the state. 100

Begovina, one of many attractions of this Mediterranean town, where the continuous presence of human communities dates back to as long as 16,000 years ago, was built by the aristocratic family of Rizvanbegović, during the reign of the Ottoman Empire. It forms a secluded array of residential buildings with inns and spacious gardens. During the war, Begovina complex was destroyed. Its reconstruction is ongoing.

WELCOME OF THE STONE SLEEPERS The remnants of history are scattered all over the town and its surroundings. If you come from the direction of Mostar or Čapljina, you cannot enter town without passing by Radimlja necropolis, featuring medieval tombstones. This widely acclaimed historic site is also a national monument. Situated right by the road, Radimlja features an impressive collection of 133 tombstones with 63 of them decorated in different motifs, which include decorative patterns, elaborate symbols of the cross, images of humans and animals, grapevine patterns, images of hunting and a famous image of a

man with extended arm and open hand. This image is thought to symbolise greeting and welcome. Perhaps it is because of that image, that travellers arriving to this area experience kindness of their local hosts.

INDEPENDENT DAORSI TRIBE Traveling up the hill of Ošanići, you will get to the archaeological site of the ancient town of Daorson, which used to be the capital city of Daorsi, Hellenised Illyrian tribe which lived in the Neretva valley between 300 and 50 BCE. Overlooking Stolac, the tribe had built its megalithic settlement with acropolis, a national monument today, surrounded by an astounding cyclopean wall built entirely of massive stone blocks, protecting vital administrative, public and religious facilities inside. This defensive wall was 65 metres long, with gates and towers on both ends. The currency found at the site serves as the testament of independence of Daorsi tribe and their developed trade, culture and commerce. The currency found, represents just a small part of the treasures discovered at this archa-

eological site. As Daorsi used Greek language and alphabet and engaged in constant trading exchanges with the Greeks, many remains of wine amphorae were found, together with some exquisite specimens of fine pottery. In addition, the remains of granite sculpture of Cadmus and Harmonia were found there as well, together with Illyrian relief featuring thirteen serpents and five pairs of eagles’ wings. However, the bronze helmet decorated with images from Greek mythology, such as Aphrodite, Nicos, Helios, Dionysus, Muses and Pegasus, to name a few, stands out as the most valuable artefact.

water tanks, flour silo, residential buildings and a mosque, which was destroyed in 1906, leaving no more than a ruin behind. One can only reach the Old Town on foot. Reaching central part of the structure will demand considerable physical fitness, but if you are not in shape, you can still make it up, provided you make several breaks as you climb. Make sure you bring plenty of water for refreshment. Also, light footwear would be a smart choice.

OLD TOWN TOWERS

If you crave refreshment, the best place to get it is in one of the local cafés downtown. Local residents will be delighted to give you directions, just stop and ask.

The historic area of the Old Town of Stolac, a defensive structure among the largest medieval structures of this type in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is yet another national monument to be found in this area. Fortified by a chain of stone towers and walls on the hilltop overlooking the town, it offers a fantastic view of the town, the Bregava river, Komanje and Ošanići hills and Hrgud Mountain. The building method employed, suggests this structure was built in several stages. The Old Town has its underground

THE DESTINY OF MOSHA DANON

One more thing… Make sure you do not leave Stolac before you visit another national monument located just two kilometres away from the town centre, on Mt. Krajšina, to be exact. It’s the final resting place of Mosha Danon, who was highly esteemed member of the Jewish community and a rabbi who served in Sarajevo in the early 19th century. According to information provided by the National

Monuments Commission, he was even appointed a Grand Rabbi in 1815. About 15 years later, as the local circumstances worsened for the Jewish community in Bosnia and Herzegovina, he took off on foot determined to reach Palestine and The Land of Israel (Eretz Yisrael) to die and be buried in the Holy Land. He died long before he reached his destination, and was buried right where death had found him. His tombstone was placed by his compatriots, ten years after he died, when the grave site became a destination of pilgrimage of Sephardi Jews from BiH, but also from other countries where Sephardi Jews lived. Some of the pilgrimages were captured in old photographs, dating from before Second World War, showing huge crowds of people, gathered around the grave site. As you can see, Stolac is a proud home of countless stories of the days long past. So, if you do decide to visit, make sure you take with you something Winston Churchill said long ago: “Study history, study history. In history lies all the secrets of statecraft”.

CAVE DRAWINGS Those of us educated in BiH will probably recall history lessons about Badanj cave, which features the oldest cave drawing found in our country, engraved in a rock. This cave is located in Bregava Canyon, about 45 metres above the riverbed. It dates from the early Palaeolithic era, between 13,000 and 12,000 BCE. The site was discovered in 1976. The drawing is thought to represent an image of a horse being hunted down. The drawing technique is far from perfect, which was not really important for its author or his contemporaries. What is important though is that it illustrates the process of animal taming and mastery of one’s surroundings.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

U CARSTVU PRIRODE

VJETRENICA

MISTIČNI DRAGULJ HERCEGOVINE JOŠ IZ DOBA VLADAVINE OSMANSKOG CARSTVA POSTOJE PODACI O SPELEOLOŠKIM OBJEKTIMA U BIH. MEĐU PRVIMA SE SPOMINJE TURSKI PUTOPISAC EVLIJA ČELEBIJA, KOJI JE OBILAZEĆI ZEMLJU POSJEĆIVAO I MNOGE PEĆINE OPISUJUĆI, KAKO SE NAVODI, NJIHOVU OKOLINU. NEKE OD BOSANSKOHERCEGOVAČKIH PEĆINA ZAISTA ODUZIMAJU DAH. KADA POGLEDATE NJIHOVE SLIKE, ČINI VAM SE KAO DA SU DIO NEKE DAVNO ISPRIČANE BAJKE. NO, NE. SVE JE TO DIO BOGATOG PRIRODNOG NASLIJEĐA NAŠE DOMOVINE. MEĐU PEĆINAMA IMA I ONIH NEDOVOLJNO ISTRAŽENIH, KAO I ONIH KOJE SU DANAS NEZAOBILAZNA TURISTIČKA DESTINACIJA. ZAKORAČITE OVOGA PUTA U UTROBU VJETRENICE I POSLUŠAJTE NJENU PRIČU

krašena prostranim hodnicima, dvoranama, vodopadima, stalnim potocima i manjim periodičnim tokovima s podzemnim jezerima, Vjetrenica je vjerovatno najljepša pećina u BiH. Prvi put spomenuta polovinom 1. vijeka poslije nove ere u djelu Povijest prirode, koju 77. godine objavljuje Plinije Stariji, nalazi se na samom jugu zemlje, na području Općine Ravno, s ulazom na samom rubu Popovog polja, 300 metara istočno od centra sela Zavale na 260 metara nadmorske visine. Od Mostara je dijeli 80 kilometara, a 12 kilometara zračne udaljenosti od Jadranskog mora. 102

ZAŠTIĆENI SPOMENIK PRIRODE Prema bioraznolikosti, Vjetrenica je prva u svijetu. U njoj živi gotovo 200 različitih životinjskih vrsta – njih 37 prvi put je pronađeno i opisano ovdje. Za turističke potrebe uređena je sredinom prošlog vijeka. Zaštićeni je spomenik prirode od 1952., dok se od 1965. nalazi u kategoriji specijalnih geoloških rezervata. U 2004. godini kandidovana je za preliminarnu listu svjetske baštine UNESCO-a. U razdoblju od 1912. do 1914. godine njena najsistematičnija

istraživanja proveo je češki naučnik Karel Absolon otkrivajući gotovo sve danas poznate špiljske kanale. Dužina svih kanala iznosi preko 7.000 metara, snaga vjetra u ljetnim danima 15 metara u sekundi, prosječna temperatura oko 11°C, dok je osnovni smjer pružanja pećinskih kanala jug-jugoistok, odnosno u pravcu mora.

MJESTO NA KOJEM SU PLESALE VILE

BONTON VJETRENICE Želite li da vaša posjeta Vjetrenici bude ugodna, obratite pažnju na sljedeće stvari: • Nosite duge hlače i planinarske cipele. Nepoželjne su sandale i klizave cipele. • Uvijek budite uz vodiča i ne udaljavajte se od grupe. • Ako se osjećate umorno, obavijestite vodiča. • Ne ostavljajte smeće.

Veliko jezero najveća je površina pod vodom u Vjetrenici. Ostaci starih čamaca koji su istraživačima služili za prelazak preko njega još uvijek su vidljivi u glavnom kanalu.

Foto: Adnan Bubalo

Zlatna dvorana, u skladu sa svojim nazivom, jedna je od najljepših dvorana Vjetrenice, ujedno i njen simbol. Osim nje, pažnju privlači još jedno mjesto zanimljivog opisa – Vilino guvno. Kako se priča, mitološka historija Vjetrenice opisana u starim tekstovima odigravala se na ovom mjestu, pa je Jakov Sorkočević napisao 1582. godine: “Stanovnici tamošnjeg kraja kažu da u toj pećini žive nimfe, koje mi u našem jeziku zovemo vile, da tu noću priređuju svoje plesove i u toj pećini sviraju...” Posjetiocima će zasigurno biti interesantno vidjeti i lijepu grupu takozvanih stalagmita na glini, koji izgledom podsjećaju na muslimanske nadgrobne spomenike. Upravo zbog toga Turskim grobljem nazvao ih je svojevremeno beg Rizvanbegović kada je s vojskom posjetio pećinu. Turistički dio staze završava se Hajdučkim stolom, umjetno napravljenim kamenim stolom, i nekoliko kamenih sjedišta.

• Nije dopušteno uvesti ljubimce. • Ne uzimajte rekvizite iz pećine. • Ne preporučuje se posjeta djece mlađe od 4 godine, osoba s klaustrofobijom i onih s poteškoćama u kretanju.

CJENOVNIK POSJETA GRUPNI CJENOVNIK (MIN. 20 OSOBA) Odrasli

10,00 KM

Penzioneri

8,00 KM

Studenti

8,00 KM

Djeca do 15 godina

5,00 KM

Djeca ispod 4 godine

Gratis

USLUGE VODIČA Za grupu od min. 30 osoba

50,00 KM

INDIVIDUALNI CJENOVNIK Odrasli

15,00 KM

Penzioneri

10,00 KM

Studenti

10,00 KM

Djeca do 15 godina

8,00 KM

Djeca ispod 4 godine

Gratis

Vrijeme obilaska:

cca. 45 minuta 103

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ecorated with spacious corridors, halls, waterfalls, number of streams, small recurrent flows and underground lakes, undoubtedly, Vjetrenica is the most beautiful cave in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The cave was mentioned for the first time by Pliny the Elder in the middle of the 1st century AD, who wrote about it in his book called Natural History, written in 77 AD. As the old book explained, Vjetrenica is located in the southern part of the country, in the area belonging to municipality of Ravno. The cave entrance is in the very edge of Popovo polje, 300 meters east of the Zavala Village centre, and 260 meters above sea level. The cave is 80 kilometres far from the city of Mostar, and 12 kilometres air distance away from the Adriatic Sea.

A PROTECTED MONUMENT OF NATURE IN THE KINGDOM OF NATURE

VJETRENICA A MYSTERIOUS JEWEL OF HERZEGOVINA

FIRST INFORMATION ON SPELEOLOGICAL STRUCTURES IN B&H ARE AS OLD AS THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE. A TURKISH TRAVEL WRITER, EVLIJA CELEBI, WAS THE FIRST PERSON KNOWN WHO, WHILE TRAVELLING AROUND THE COUNTRY, DEVOTED SOME OF HIS TIME TO EXPLORE AND DESCRIBE THE CAVES AND THEIR ENVIRONMENT. INDEED, THERE ARE CAVES IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA THAT ARE TRULY BREATH-TAKING. AS IF THEIR PICTURES ARE TELLING YOU THE ANCIENT FAIRY TALES. BUT, THERE IS MORE TO IT THAN JUST STORIES AND TALES. IN FACT, THESE CAVES ARE PART OF A RICH NATURAL LEGACY OF OUR HOMELAND. SOME OF THESE CAVES ARE YET UNEXPLORED, WHILE OTHERS ARE INDISPENSABLE TOURIST ATTRACTIONS. TAKE A MOMENT TO STEP INSIDE THE VJETRENICA, AND LISTEN TO ITS STORY 104

Vjetrenica is the most interesting cave in the world by its biodiversity. It is a home to nearly 200 different animal species: 37 of these species were first found and described right inside this cave. In the middle of the last century the cave was arranged to be a tourist site. In 1952, it became a protected natural monument, and in 1965 it was categorized as a special geological reserve. Moreover, in 2004 Vjetrenica was nominated for the preliminary list of world heritage by UNESCO. The most systematic research of Vjetrenica was conducted in the period from 1912 to 1914. The research was carried out by a Czech scientist named Karel Absolon. He discovered nearly all the channels of the cave that are known today. The length of all channels is over 7,000 meters. During summer, the wind power amounts to 15 m/s, and the average temperature approximates to 11 degrees Celsius. The cave channels are mainly turned to South or Southeast, and towards the sea.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS IN VJETRENICA A strong wind at the entrance of the cave is a fascinating feature of Vjetrenica. Strictly speaking, it is not the wind, but a specific physical phenomenon. More precisely, the air flow occurs in order to counterbalance the constant, internal temperature inside the cave, with the changeable temperature of the air outside. The topographic surface above the Vjetrenica is covered by deep cracks. In the summer, warm air enters the cave through these cracks, it cools down and goes out through the main cave entrance. During the winter, when the external temperature drops to a level that is significantly lower than the internal temperature, the wind reverses its direction. In transitional periods, the wind may change its direction several times a day; for example, if the external temperature gets lower in the morning, and increases later in the day.

CAVE RULES • Please be advised to wear long trousers as well as sturdy shoes. You should neither wear flip-flops nor shoes that have a high risk of slipping. • Always be located in the vicinity of your tour guide and stick to your group - do not leave them. • In case you are feeling tired, please notify the tour guide immediately. • Please do not leave any waste. • Pets are not allowed to enter the cave. • Please do not take requisites out of the cave! • Do not recommended visits for children younger than 4 years old, people with claustrophobia and those with mobility problems. Čovječja ribica (lat. Proteus anguinus)

GROUP PRICES (MIN. 20 PERSONS)

A BALLROOM FOR FAIRIES The Big Lake is the largest water surface in Vjetrenica. The main channel still retains the remains of old boats that belonged to explorers who wanted to cross over the lake. The Golden Hall, as the name itself suggests, is one of its most beautiful halls and the true symbol of Vjetrenica. Apart from the Golden Hall, another interesting place draws visitors’ attention: Fairy’s Courtyard (Vilino guvno). In fact, as described in some ancient texts, historical mythical stories of Vjetrenica are connected to this location. As written by Jakov Sorkocevic in 1582, “the local people claim that nymphs, the beings commonly known by locals as fairies, have settled in this cave, and they play music and dance when the night falls... “

TICKET PRICES

Reljef na ulazu u špilju Vjetrenica

Visitors will certainly be interested to see the beautiful stalagmites on the clay. Their appearance sometimes reminds the visitors of Muslim tombstones. This is why, once when he visited the cave with his army, the bey Rizvanbegovic compared them to a Turkish cemetery. The tourist part of the trail ends with a Bandit table (Hajdučki stol), a man-made stone table, surrounded by several stone seats.

Adults

10,00 KM

Pensioners

8,00 KM

Students

8,00 KM

Children (4-15 yrs)

5,00 KM

Children (under 4 yrs)

FREE

GUIDE SERVICES For a group of min. 30 persons

50,00 KM

INDIVIDUAL PRICES Adults

15,00 KM

Pensioners

10,00 KM

Students

10,00 KM

Children (4-15 yrs)

8,00 KM

Children (under 4yrs)

FREE

Tour duration:

cca. 45 minutes 105

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

106

isoko na planini Vranici, poznatoj rudnoj bosanskohercegovačkoj planini, udaljeno 22 kilometra od Fojnice, smjestilo se Prokoško jezero. S nadmorskom visinom od 1635 metara, dužinom od 426 metara, širinom 191,3 metra, maksimalnom dubinom od 13 metara, već dugi niz godina zbog svog idiličnog položaja i obilježja slovi za važnu turističku destinaciju. Ledenjačkog postanka, formirano kroz različite faze – od pleistocena do danas, Prokoško jezero, kojeg neki nazivaju također Gorskim okom, i okolina su 1982. proglašeni regionalnim parkom prirode, te su postali zona stroge zaštite. U 2005. godini područje je proglašeno spomenikom prirode. Prokoško jezero okruženo je drvenim pastirskim kolibama, takozvanim katunima, pravljenim od drveta i trupaca. One su također pokrivene drvetom. Iznad se pruža najviši vrh Vranice – Nadkrstac, koji doseže 2112 metara nadmorske visine. Jezero se puni vodom iz lednika, podjezerskih i okolnih izvora lociranih u podnožju Debelog brda, topljenjem snijega s okolnih padina i atmosferskim talozima. U njemu živi endemična vrsta triton, prirodna rijetkost iz reda repatih vodozemaca na listi zaštićenih vrsta od 1954. godine. Pronašao ga je 1891. godine Othmar Reiser, ornitolog Zemaljskog muzeja u Sarajevu.

Foto: Adnan BUBALO

Lijepo je pronaći mjesto gdje je dovoljno doći da biste se odmorili. Upravo takvo je Prokoško jezero. 107

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Photo: Adnan BUBALO

rokoško Lake is located high up on Mt. Vranica, a wellknown ore-bearing mountain situated about 22 km away from Fojnica. The lake is located at the altitude of 1.635 m above sea level. It is 426 m long and 191.3 m wide. Its maximum depth does not exceed 13 m. Its beauty and the picturesque setting it creates make the lake an important destination of tourists and nature lovers. This glacial lake formed over different eras from Pleistocene onward and the area around it were declared regional nature Park in 1982, protected under the law. In 2005, this area was declared a monument of nature. 108

The lake is surrounded by charming wooden huts used by shepherds in the past, completely made of planks and logs, including the roof. Not far from the lake is Nadkrstac, the highest peak of Mt. Vranica, with the height of 2,212 m above sea level. The water in the lake comes from melting glaciers, subterranean and surface springs located at the foothills of Debelo Brdo, melting snow from the nearby slopes and year-round rainfall. All you need to do to relax is get to this wonderfully serene oasis of peace and natural beauty. No other place embodies peace and serenity like Prokoško Lake does.

Fascinating Triton Prokoško Lake is the habitat of Triton, a fascinating endemic amphibian, added to the list of protected species in 1954. It was first found in the lake in 1891 by Othmar Reiser, who served as the ornithologist with the National Museum in Sarajevo.

IZLET U PRIRODU

Njegovo veličanstvo,

Nacionalni park “Una” NACIONALNI PARK “UNA” PROSTIRE SE DOLINOM GORNJEG TOKA RIJEKE UNE KAO I OKO KANJONA RIJEKE UNAC, DESNE PRITOKE UNE, SVE DO RJEČICE KRKE NA ZAPADU PREDSTAVLJAJUĆI JEDINSTVENU PRIRODNU CJELINU U JUGOISTOČNOM DIJELU EVROPE. OVDJE MOŽETE POSJETITI MILANČEV BUK I ŠTRBAČKI BUK, DIVITI SE MARTINBRODSKIM SLAPOVIMA, ZAVIRITI U UTVRDE I SAKRALNE OBJEKTE. OSIM BAJKOVITOG PRIRODNOG KRAJOLIKA I ZANIMLJIVE KULTURNE BAŠTINE, NP “UNA” TAKOĐER NUDI AKTIVAN ODMOR UZ BROJNE DINAMIČNE AKTIVNOSTI

109

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SPORT NA VODI Ko god dođe – iako možda svako neće smjeti – ali barem će poželjeti da se spusti u gumenom čamcu, takozvanom raftu, niz Unu na kojoj se svakog ljeta održava popularna manifestacija Una regata. Rafting je prvenstveno vid sportske rekreacije, avantura i pravi turistički užitak. Pogodan je za svakoga i nije potrebno prethodno znanje iz veslanja, ali obavezno uz pratnju licenciranog upravljača čamcem. Sezona raftinga na Uni traje od marta do oktobra. Najatraktivnija dionica – od Štrbačkog buka do naselja Lohovo, cijelom dužinom od 15 km proteže se kroz Nacionalni park “Una”. Prvi dio trase je dug, silovit, nepredvidiv s mnogo manjih i većih slapova, brzaka i virova. Vožnja traje otprilike tri do četiri sata, dok se temperatura vode u proljeće i ljeto kreće od 13 do 17°C.

PLANINARENJE & BICIKLIZAM Prostranstva Nacionalnog parka “Una” odlična su mjesta za planinarenje, šetnju kao i vožnju biciklima. Tu je nekoliko označenih plani110

narskih staza od kojih je posebno popularna planinarska staza ljekobilja. No, za svakog ima ponešto: od najlakših rekreativnih do zahtjevnijih i težih ruta. Pored poučnih tabli uvijek možete zastati i informisati se o flori i fauni predjela u kojem se trenutno nalazite. Prije nego što krenete u pohod, kvalifikovano osoblje će vas obavijestiti o idealnoj polaznoj tački, a možete dobiti također mapu s ucrtanim rutama za planinarenje i biciklizam.

MUŠIČARENJE Još od vremena Japoda ribolov je veoma zastupljena tradicionalna aktivnost kod stanovništva koje nastanjuje područje današnjeg Nacionalnog parka “Una”. Sportsko-rekreativni ribolov u novije vrijeme predstavlja najzastupljeniju razonodu i za zaljubljenike prirode koji kao turisti posjećuju nacionalni park uživajući u ribolovu mušičarenjem (fly fishing), kao i u drugim načinima ribolova koji su uobičajeni i dozvoljeni na bistrim i hladnim vodama rijeka Una i Unac. U revirima predviđenim za ribolov najviše su zastupljeni potočna pastrmka, koja se lovi od 1. marta do 30. septembra, te lipljen, koji se lovi od 1. maja do 30. septembra.

TIME TO REUNITE WITH NATURE

His Majesty The National Park “Una”

river starts in March and ends in October. The most attractive part of the rafting stage, from Strbacki Buk to Lohovo, is 15 km long and goes right through the National Park “Una”. The first part is long, fierce and unpredictable, with lots of smaller or larger waterfalls, fast currents and whirlpools. The duration of the rafting is approximately 3 to 4 hours. The water temperature in spring and summer is among 13 and 17 degrees Celsius.

HIKING & BIKING

THE NATIONAL PARK “UNA” IS SITUATED ON THE UPPER STREAM OF RIVER UNA, AROUND THE CANYON OF UNAC - RIGHT TRIBUTARY OF UNA, AND UP TO THE RIVER KRKA ON THE WEST. TOGETHER, THEY REPRESENT A UNIQUE PIECE OF NATURE IN SOUTH-EASTERN EUROPE. HERE, YOU CAN VISIT MILANCEV BUK AND STRBACKI BUK, ADMIRE THE WATERFALLS OF MARTINBROD AND TAKE A SNEAK PEEK INTO OLD CASTLES AND RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS. APART FROM A WONDERFUL NATURAL SCENERY AND INTERESTING CULTURAL HERITAGE, NP “UNA” ALSO OFFERS AN ACTIVE VACATION WITH A NUMBER OF DYNAMIC ACTIVITIES

WATER SPORTS Although some may not have the courage to do so, any visitor will wish for a rubber river rafting boat to sail down the river Una. Each summer, a popular manifestation Una Regata takes place. Rafting is primarily a recreational sport, an adventure and a true enjoyment for tourists. It is suitable for anyone, and it does not require any previous rowing experience or skills. However, supervision of a licensed oarsman is obligatory. The season of rafting on Una

The vast areas of the National Park “Una” are excellent for hiking, walking and biking. There are several mountain trails that are marked, but the most popular is the so-called Herb Trail. There is something for any taste: from easier trails for recreation, to more demanding and difficult routes. You can stop by the informative tables if you wish to find out more about flora and fauna of the area. Before getting started, a highly qualified staff will inform you on the ideal starting point. You can also get a map with clearly marked hiking and biking trails.

FLY FISHING Since the times of Iapods, fishing has been a common traditional activity among the inhabitants around today’s National Park “Una”. Recently, fishing as a sport and recreation has become a popular activity for lovers of nature who come and visit National Park “Una” as tourists. They enjoy fly fishing, as much as other fishing techniques that are common and approved in the clear and cold waters of Una and Unac. The brown trout is the most commonly found in the fishing areas, and it is usually fished from March 1 to September 30. It is followed by grayling, fished from May 1 to September 30. 111

BOSNAGLOBUS I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA ZAVRTI / SPIN THE GLOBEAND HERZEGOVINA

REPORTAŽA

Sat i po leta do Istanbula. Potom, sedam i po sati leta do Maldiva, uz kratko zadržavanje u avionu. Divite se plavetnilu koje okružuje ova rajska ostrva. Još sat i po leta. Već letite iznad beskonačnog zelenila. Tako izgleda put od Sarajeva do glavnog grada Šri Lanke, Kolomba

Piše: Faruk ČALUK

112

BILI SMO POZVANI / WE WERE INVITED Zahvaljujući pozivu Svjetske turističke organizacije UN-a (UNWTO) boravili smo u Šri Lanki. / We visited Sri Lanka following the . invitation of the UN World Tourism Organisation

TRAVEL REPORT

An hour and a half flight to Istanbul. Then, seven and a half hours flying to the Maldives, with a short stay on the plane. You admire the big blue that surrounds these paradise islands. Another hour and a half flight. Now you are flying over the endless greenery. That’s what the trip from Sarajevo to Sri Lanka’s capital city of Colombo looks like Written by: Faruk ČALUK

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Viza koju ste već pripremili putem interneta, a koja košta 40 dolara, čeka vas na aerodromu. Izlazite iz aerodromske zgrade i osjetite samo toplinu i veliku vlagu. Ipak, nije nepodnošljivo! Odmah tu shvatite da ste daleko od kuće. U nekom potpuno drugačijem svijetu. Prijatnom, ljubaznom, toplom.

Procvat države Ostrvska država smještena u Indijskom okeanu jugoistočno od Indije, prema legendi, nekada je s njom bila povezana kopnom. Očekujete jezik sličan indijskom. Za nas koji dolazimo iz daleka, zaista zvuči slično, iako nema niti jednu jedinu riječ koja nalikuje indijskom jeziku. Sličnosti nema ni s načinom života, uglavnom. Nakon viševjekovne vladavine prvo Portugalaca, pa Holanđana, a zatim i Britanaca, 1948. godine Šri Lanka, tada još uvijek zvana Cejlon, proglašava svoju nezavisnost. Nekoliko godina kasnije, nakon što je sinhaleški jezik proglašen jedinim zvaničnim jezikom u državi, Tamili dižu bunu koja se pretvara u gotovo tridesetogodišnji krvavi rat pod vodstvom gerilske grupe Tamilskih tigrova. Odlučujućeg 19. maja 2009. godine predsjednik proglašava kraj pobune i pobjedu vladine vojske. U narednih sedam godina ova država doživljava ekonomski procvat. Industrija, poljoprivreda, turizam – sve je cvjetalo ubrzano. Tako je danas ovo zemlja s dvadesetak miliona stanovnika na teritoriji malo većoj od Bosne i Hercegovine u kojoj je samo 4% njenih stanovnika nezaposleno! Osim turizma, jedne od glavnih grana privrede Šri Lanke, razvijena je i industrija čaja, cimeta, tekstila, gume, dragulja. Vodi se kao jedan od najvećih izvoznika cimeta na svijetu, a izvozi također čaj, gumu kao i kokos.

Mir, jezera, plantaže čaja Odlazimo najprije u Galle, grad na jugu države, poznat po velikim zidi114

nama koje su napravili još Portugalci. U zidinama grada uglavnom žive muslimani, kojih je ukupno 7% u cijeloj državi. Najmnogobrojniji su Sinhalezi, pa Tamili, i drugi. Budizam je najrašireniji. Stari i novi budistički hramovi dočekuju vas u svim dijelovima države. Veoma često vidite i džamije, i crkve, i hindu hramove. Do centralnog dijela Šri Lanke vozite se najprije kratkim autoputem, a zatim, ne tako dobrim cestama, penjete na visinu od preko 2000 metara nadmorske visine. Prolazite pored mnogobrojnih vodopada, plantaža čaja, malih poluporušenih baraka koje predstavljaju prodavnice, radionice, restorane. Kratko skretanje s puta i nalazite se u restoranu s prelijepim pogledom i modernim enterijerom. Pijete kafu koju dobijete u vrećici kao što kod nas dobijete čaj. Pogled na rijeku. Divlju. Idealnu za rafting – veoma popularan u ovom dijelu države. Gotovo pet sati vijuganja bilo je potrebno da osvojimo jedan od najvećih vrhova države. Nuwara Eliya mjesto je gdje su se britanski kolonijalisti odmarali od vrelina Šri Lanke. Mir, jezera, plantaže čaja. Papagaji jedu na stolovima. Moderne vile na sve strane, uglav-

Fabrika čaja / Tea Factory

Šri Lanke. Sljedeća stanica bio je Kandy, sjedište posljednjeg kralja Šri Lanke. U centru grada nalazi se veliko jezero. Vlada užurbana atmosfera. Svugdje puno turista. Ipak, smiraj ljubaznih, uvijek iskreno nasmijanih domaćina, čine vaš boravak veoma ugodnim. Na putu ka Sigiriyi, vozeći se prema istoku, obišli smo Minneriya nacionalni park. Tu se svakodnevno pored rijeke odmara stotine slonova. Ništa nije neobično i da ih vidite i na cesti dok se vozite autom ka sljedećem gradu. Na toj istoj cesti, znakovi upozorenja: usporite, prelaze krokodili, dok majmuni ležerno trčkaraju gdje god da dođete.

Usporite, prelaze krokodili Spustili smo se potom na manje nadmorske visine i krenuli prema sjevernom dijelu centralne

Još koji sat vožnje bio je potreban do istočne obale. Velika je to uvala koja čini da Indijski okean ne bude toliko valovit. Mirno toplo more, rajske plaže, palme, luksuzni hoteli, dok prije pet godina ovdje nije bilo ništa, a već prije sedam se vodio, kako kažu, jedan od najkrvavijih ratova u Aziji. Bila je to jedinstvena prilika da odmorimo uz luksuzne bazene, bijeli pijesak, duge, široke plaže i Indijski okean. Sjetni smo napustili Šri Lanku, njene ljepote, njenu historiju, njene stanovnike. Smirene, uvijek od srca nasmijane, uslužne, prijatne i druželjubive ljude.

Plantaža čaja / Tea plantation

Foto: Faruk ČALUK

nom u novijem imperijalističkom stilu. Obilazeći jednu od fabrika čaja ljubazna djevojka objasnila nam je proces obrade čaja, kako nastaju zeleni, nekoliko vrsta crnog čaja, te bijeli, ubjedljivo najskuplji čaj. Dug, naporan i zahtjevan proces, zaključujemo.

U botaničkoj bašti / In a botanical garden

Džamija u gradu Galle / Galle mosque

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Visa that you prepared earlier on the Internet, and that costs 40 US dollars, awaits you at the airport. You walk out of the airport building and feel only the heat and big humidity. Still, it is not unbearable! Immediately there and then you realise that you are far from home. In some completely different world. Pleasant, kind, warm.

Flourishing of the state This island state that is located in the Indian Ocean southeast of India, according to legend, used to be connected to the mainland. You expect a language similar to Indian. For us who come from afar, it really does sound similar, although it does not have a single word that is anything like Indian language. There are mostly no similarities in the way of life either. After centuries of rule of the Portuguese first, then the Dutch, and afterwards the British too, in 1948. Sri Lanka, then still called Ceylon, declared its independence. Several years later, after Sinhalese language was declared the only official language in the country, its Tamil people revolted, which then turned into an almost 30-year long bloody war under the rule of the guerrilla group of Tamil tigers. On the decisive 19 May 2009, the president declared the end of the rebellion and the victory of the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s army. In the following seven years, this country experienced an economic boom. Industry, agriculture, tourism â&#x20AC;&#x201C; everything flourished hurriedly. Thus, today this is a country with some 20 million citizens in a territory that is only slightly bigger than that of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and where only 4% of its people are unemployed! Apart from tourism, which is one of the main economic fields of Sri Lanka, the industry of tea, cinnamon, textile, rubber and gemstones are also developed. It is one of the biggest exporters of cinnamon in the world, and it also exports tea, rubber and coconut. 116

Lavlja stijena u Sigiriyi / Lion Rock Sigiriya

Nuwara Eliya rezidencija / Nuwara Eliya residency

The peace, the lakes and the tea plantations We first go to Galle, a town in the South of the state, known for its huge walls which were built by the Portuguese. The city walls are mostly populated by Muslims, who total 7% in the entire country. Most numerous are Sinhalese, then Tamil and others. Buddhism is the most widespread religion. Old and new Buddhist temples greet you in all parts of the country. Very often you can see mosques, churches and Hindu temples too. You drive to the central area of Sri Lanka first on the short highway, and then on the not so good roads, and you ascend to the altitude of over 2000 meters above sea level. You pass by the many waterfalls, tea plantations, small semi-demolished shacks which in fact are shops, workshops or restaurants. You make a brief detour from the road and you find yourself in a restaurant with a beautiful view and modern interior. You drink coffee that you get in a bag, like for tea. A view of the river. Wild. Ideal for rafting â&#x20AC;&#x201C; very popular in this part of the country. Almost five hours of meandering was needed to conquer one of the highest peaks in the country. Nuwara Eliya is a place where the British colonialists rested from the heat of Sri Lanka. The peace, the lakes, the tea plantations. Parrots eating at

the tables. Modern villas all around, mostly in a newer imperial style. While visiting one of the tea factories, a polite girl explained the process of tea making, how the green ones are made, several kinds of black tea and the white one, the most expensive one by far. It is a long, arduous and demanding process, we conclude.

Slow down, crocodiles passing! Afterwards we descended to lower heights and moved to the northern part of central Sri Lanka. The next stop was Kandy, the seat of the last king of Sri Lanka. In the centre of the town there is a big lake. The atmosphere is very busy. Lots of tourists everywhere. Still, the calm of the polite, always sincerely smiling hosts make your stay a very pleasant one. On the road to Sigiriya, driving east, we visited Minneriya national park. This is where hundreds of elephants rest by the river every day. It is not unusual to see them on the road while you are driving in your car to the next town. On that same road, there are warning signs: slow down, crocodiles passing, and the monkeys casually roam wherever you go. It took a few more hours of driving to get to the east coast. It is a large bay which makes the Indian Ocean less wavy. Calm, warm sea, heavenly beaches, palm trees, luxury hotels, while only five years before there was nothing here, and seven years before there was, so they say, one of the bloodiest wars in Asia. It was an unique opportunity to relax by the luxury pools, white sand, long, wide beaches and the Indian Ocean. We were feeling melancholy as we left Sri Lanka, its beauties, its history, its people. Calm, always smiling from the heart, accommodating, pleasant and friendly people. 117

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

BRZI BIJEG U PRIRODU

HUSREMOVAC ČEKA NA VAS!

PARK PRIRODE HUSREMOVAC PRIPADA MJESNOJ ZAJEDNICI DEJČIĆI, OPĆINA TRNOVO. OSIM NJEGA, POSTOJI I ISTOIMENI PLANINARSKI DOM, OTVOREN TOKOM CIJELE GODINE

amo 30 kilometara od sarajevske gradske vreve i betona udaljen je Park prirode Husremovac. Na nadmorskoj visini od 900 do 1000 metara prostiru se livade i pašnjaci površine od oko dvije hiljade duluma zemljišta, također s nekoliko desetina duluma crnogorične i bjelogorične šume. Ovo područje krasi ekološka raznolikost. Na travnatim površinama mogu se pronaći različite vrste ljekovitog, aromatičnog i vitaminskog bilja, koje često beru izletnici kako bi u zimskim danima pripremali svoje kvalitetne čajeve. Brojne manje rijeke, potoci, izvori i vodopadi, koji su poznati po čistoj, pitkoj i ljekovitoj vodi, ispresijecaju prostor Husremovca. Pažnju plijeni Senabot, prirodni izvor, okružen mostićima i potočićima koji pristižu

sa svih strana. Jedan pored drugog, na razdaljini od sedam metara, nalaze se dva Husrembegova vrela od kojih je jedan čak ljekovit. Ako želite ostati neko vrijeme, Planinarski dom Husremovac idealno je mjesto za odmor, opuštanje i druženja kao i organizovanje škola u prirodi. Njegov kapacitet se kreće od 15 do 20 mjesta i nudi isključivo domaću kuhinju. Zastupljenja su raznovrsna bosanska jela poput hljeba od heljde, raževog brašna, ječma, potom pite, grah, čorbe, uštipci od heljde sa sirom i kajmakom, jela ispod sača, klepe, kiseli kupus i salate, te topli i hladni napitci, sve, što je izvrsno, po pristupačnim cijenama. Dom je otvoren tokom cijele godine, a njegovi domaćini Mahira i Salko potrudit će se da uživate u svakom trenutku.

PUTOKAZ Ukoliko krećete iz Sarajeva, poslije Krupca skrenite desno prema Bjelašnici i Igmanu. Nakon desetak kilometara skrenite lijevo kod table na kojoj piše Trnovo, Dejčići, Pendičići. Vozite vijugavom asfaltiranom cestom prateći putokaze za Planinarski dom Husremovac. Kada prođete kroz Dejčiće, prije mosta skrenite desno na uski put, odakle opet skrećete desno i krivudavom cestom kroz borovu šumu dolazite na prelijepi plato, gdje se nalazi planinarski dom.

Informacije i rezervacije: 061 / 502 171 i 070 / 243 123 118

QUICK NATURE GETAWAY

HUSREMOVAC

IS WAITING FOR YOU! HUSREMOVAC NATURE PARK IS LOCATED WITHIN DEJČIĆI LOCAL COMMUNITY, IN TRNOVO MUNICIPALITY. IN ADDITION TO THE PARK, THIS FASCINATING LOCATION ALSO FEATURES A MOUNTAIN INN UNDER THE SAME NAME, OPEN FOR VISITORS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR.

usremovac Nature Park is only 30 km away from the nervewrecking noises of city rush hour. At the altitude of between 900 and 1,000 m above sea level, this fascinating Park occupies acres of luscious pastures and coniferous and deciduous woodland. This Park features incredible biological diversity. The Park’s pastures are the natural habitat of many species of medicinal and aromatic herbs often picked by visitors, dried at home and enjoyed during long winter months in incredibly fragrant tea brews. Many small rivers, streams, springs and waterfalls, known for their pure, unpolluted and even medicinal water, adorn this irresistible place creating a fascinating natural setting. Particularly fascinating is Senabot spring surrounded by small streams of freezing cold pure mountain water flowing into it. Side by side, only seven metres apart, are two Husrembey’s springs, one of which is known for its healing

properties. If you want to stay for a while, Husremovac Mountain Inn is ideal choice for rest, relaxation, social events and school excursions. The Inn can host groups ranging between 15 and 20 persons and the restaurant offers nothing but mouth-watering home-made food. Traditional Bosnian dishes served here include varieties of bread and pastries made of buckwheat, rye and barley flour, Bosnian pies, hearty

home-made beans and soups, buckwheat fritters with delicious cottage cheese and crème-fresh, various dishes baked under the bell, Bosnian ravioli, pickled cabbage and salads, refreshing hot and cold drinks, all available at very reasonable prices. The Inn is open for business throughout the year and its keepers Mahira and Salko will do their best to make sure you enjoy every moment.

HOW TO GET THERE If you travel from Sarajevo, take the right turn after Krupac towards Bjelašnica and Igman. After about 10 km, take the left turn right after you pass the road sign showing direction to Trnovo, Dejčići and Pendičići. Take the winding asphalt road following the road signs showing direction to Husremovac Mountain Inn. When you pass through the village of Dejčići, turn right, before the bridge, on the narrow road and take another right turn following the winding road through the pine forest leading you to a fascinating plateau dominated by the charming Husremovac Mountain Inn. Information and Reservations: 061 / 502 171 i 070 / 243 123 119

KOLUMNA / COLUMN rićima stoji onako kako su ga ostavili. I čekaju da kao ptice bijele olakšaju i nama odlazak iz ove doline.

FURAJ.BA KOLUMNA

POGLED s memli strane HAJD’ PROBAJ ISPRIČATI JEDNU PRIČU O SARAJEVU. TAMAN KAD POMISLIŠ DA SI ZAVRŠIO, POČEO SI PISATI DRUGU, NESVJESNO ILI SVJESNO KAO U HILJADU I JEDNOJ NOĆI Piše: Vedran JAKUPOVIĆ

riča o memli i sunčanoj strani stoji i ne miče se otkako je Sarajeva. Dvije strane, dvije obale Miljacke, dva naselja, Bistrik i Vratnik, Dino i Hari, dva pogleda i jedna priča. Kada je Bog dao Miljacki da probije kanjon i izađe u polje oko dvora, nije jadna mogla ni zamisliti kakve će se teorije i filozofije razvijati i razrađivati na strminama njenih obala. Mada sam prema osnovnom obrazovanju “haustorče” s Grbavice, duboko u meni osjeti se dah odrastanja u mahali na memli, ili, kako je jedan 120

hadžija sa Širokače zove, mubarek strani. To je ono gore na lijevoj obali, gdje se snijeg duže zadrži, a sunce rjeđe javi. Kažu da zbog te vlage ili mema u kome su odrastali, momci s ove strane nisu regrutovani u tursku vojsku. K’o neka vojska. Ali znali su ovi momci kako odsanjati svoje snove ispod Trebevića, na Čolinoj kapi, Osmicama, Vranjačama, Zlatištu... Mnogi od njih još uvijek sanjaju na Kovačima i s vremena na vrijeme pogledaju preko rijeke, da provjere je li svaki kamen na Hridu i pod Bosta-

Sam grad nastao je na lijevoj obali, oko Careve džamije, i to se i osjeti. Beg je planirao da bude njegova, ali bilo joj je suđeno da bude Careva. Zvanično zbog broja stepenika na munari, ljudske zavisti i pogana jezika. Ali tek kada uđeš u nju postane ti jasno zašto je Careva. Stare Sarajlije su sadaku počinjale dijeliti od Sedam braće, preko franjevačke crkve Sv. Ante, pa preko Miljacke u Staru pravoslavnu. Ovim mlađima je ostalo u navici samo turbe Sedam braće. I da se ne vraćaju istim putem kojim su došli, i da će se obistiniti ono što prvo čuju. Prvu riječ koju sam čuo pred ispit iz anatomije ne smijem ni ponoviti. A položio sam. Meni su uvijek bili bliži rituali popodnevnih ili predakšamskih šetnji po mahalama, od Takiše i Megare do Toplika, pa dalje prema Kozijoj ćupriji. Tada su se već i oči iza zavjesa umorile od cjelodnevnog osmatranja, a i avlijaneri se smire i ne laju za slučajnim prolaznicima. Čekaju novi dan. Tokom vremena su nastali – i pivara, i žičara, i muzički paviljon u At Mejdanu. Tokom vremena su berberi Skake osunetili više od milion ljudi. Ne zna se ni broj akšamlucima kod Bibana na Nišanu, niti sijelima u Popovom gaju. I samo onaj ko se nije penjao pored Prvog šumara na vrh Trebevića može poželjeti da uzaludno troši energiju na nekim dalekim brdima. Znaju sarajevski planinari kako je silaziti niz Pogledine i razgovarati s Vijećnicom – oči u oči. A u jednom od medinskih razgovora, na moju opasku kako nikad nisam bio u džamiji na Vratniku, Midhat-efendija mi reče: “Ti nisi nikad bio u Sarajevu”. Pozvao me da dođem, odazvao sam se i shvatio da je bio u pravu, da jedno bez drugog ne može. I sad već kao po pravilu uz Ramazan, iza ikindije, niz Čeljigoviće, pored Vijećnice, do Jajce kasarne i Bijele džamije. Pogledam i s one sunčane na memli stranu i bar na trenutak odem u neki drugi svijet. Ali, s tim pogledom počinje i druga priča.

FURAJ.BA COLUMN

A VIEW FROMide a musty s

SEE IF YOU CAN TELL ONLY ONE TALE ABOUT SARAJEVO. JUST AS YOU THINK YOU’RE DONE, YOU START WRITING ANOTHER, SUBCONSCIOUSLY OR CONSCIOUSLY, LIKE IN „1001 NIGHTS“

tale of musty and sunny sides stands there immovably for as long as Sarajevo exists. Two sides, two riverbanks of Miljacka, two neighbourhoods, Bistrik and Vratnik, Dino and Hari, two views and one tale. When God gave Miljacka a task to penetrate a canyon and come out into the field around the court, a poor fog couldn’t even imagine what theories and philosophies would be developed and elaborated on its riverbanks’ steeps. Although I am, by my elementary education, a „building block boy“ from Grbavica, deep within me one can feel a whiff of growing up in mahala* on the musty side, or as one haji from neighbourhood Širokača calls it, a mubarak side. That’s the one up there on the left riverbank, where the snow dwells for longer, and the Sun appears less often. The legend says that young men from this side did not get recruited to the Turkish army because of the dampness and must in which they grew up. But these boys knew how to dream their dreams beneath Trebević, at Čola’s cap, Eights, Vranjače, Zlatište... Many of them still dream in Kovači and from time to time look across the river, to check whether each stone in Hrid and benath Bostarići

still stands the way they left it. And they wait like white birds to ease our departure from this valley. The city itself came upon on the left bank, around Emperor’s mosque, and one can feel it. The bey planned for it to be his, but it was destined to be Emperor’s. Officially, because of the number of steps on the minaret, human envy and vicious tongue. But it is only when you step inside it that it becomes clear why it was Emperor’s. Old Sarajevans distributed charity starting from Seven brothers, via Franciscan church of St. Anthony, then across Miljacka into the Old orthodox church. Younger ones are only accustomed to domed burial site of Seven brothers, and believe that they shouldn’t go back the same way they came, and that the first thing they hear will come true. The first word I heard before my anatomy exam I cannot even repeat. And I passed the exam. I was always fonder of the late afternoon or dusk time ritual walks through mahala’s, from Takiša and Megara to Toplik, and further towards Kozija ćuprija. At that time of the day, the eyes behind the curtains would tire from the day-long observing, and the stray dogs would settle down and stop barking at the passers by. They’d await a new day.

Written by: Vedran JAKUPOVIĆ

In time, many things came about – brewery, cable car and music pavilion in At Mejdan. As time went on, the barbers of Skaka circumcised more than million people. And noone can count the number of evenings at Biban’s in Nišan, or siestas at Popov gaj. And only the ones who never climbed to the peak of Trebević past the Prvi šumar could wish to waste their energy senselessly at some hills far, far away. Sarajevan hikers know what it’s like to climb down Pogledine and talk to the City Hall – eyes to eyes. And in one of Medina talks, Midhat-effendi said, as a response to my remark that I’ve never been to the mosque in Vratnik: “You’ve never been to Sarajevo”. He invited me to come, and I went and realised that he was right, that one cannot do without the other. And nowadays, almost as a habit at Ramadan time, after ikindija prayer, down the Čeljigovići, past the City Hall, to Jajce barracks and White mosque. And I look from the sunny to the musty side and just for a moment I go to some other world. But, that view starts a new tale. * Old-fashioned town quarters with narrow streets and rowed houses with front gardens. 121

ZAVRTI GLOBUS / SPIN THE GLOBE

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ZDRAVLJE / HEALTH

SPECIJALNA BOLNICA ZA ORTOPEDIJU I OPŠTU HIRURGIJU DR. NEMEC

VRHUNSKI TIM ZA LIJEČENJE LOKOMOTORNIH BOLESTI

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PRVA PRIVATNA SPECIJALNA BOLNICA ZA ORTOPEDIJU OBILJEŽAVA JEDANAEST GODINA RADA, TOKOM KOJIH JE U BOLNICI OBAVLJENO PREKO DEVET HILJADA OPERACIJA

im koji je stvorio prof. dr. sc. Boris Nemec danas broji oko 30 zaposlenika, među kojima je šest specijalista ortopeda, jedan anesteziolog, 20-tak medicinskih sestara, dva fizioterapeuta te administrativno i pomoćno osoblje. Specijalna bolnica u Matuljima kraj Rijeke vrhunska je ustanova posvećena liječenju povreda i bolesti lokomotornog aparata. Stručni tim ljekara, u suradnji s pomoćnim osobljem, koristi najnovije operativne tehnike u liječenju pacijenata te osigurava brz i efikasan postoperativni oporavak. - Prioritetni cilj bolnice jeste odabrati individualni terapijski pristup svakom pojedinom pacijentu. Za većinu pacijenata, operacija je vrlo stresan događaj. Umirujuće okruženje, razgovor prije operacije i upoznavanje pacijenta sa svim fazama i aspektima procedure koja će se izvršiti, temelj su našeg pristupa liječenju, ističe prof. dr. sc. Boris Nemec, dodajući kako se time osigurava optimalan ishod i omogućava lakše provođenje same operacije i postoperativne njege. Tim ljekara i medicinskog osoblja provodi liječenje iz područja ortopedije i traumatologije loko-

prof. dr. sc. BORIS NEMEC SLUŽBENI JE LJEKAR HRVATSKE NOGOMETNE REPREZENTACIJE OD 1996 GODINE

motornog sistema te ambulantne preglede i liječenje, specijalističke i preventivne preglede iz područja ortopedije, dječije ortopedije, traumatologije i reumatologije, kao i operacije kuka, koljena, stopala, ramena, lakta i šake. Specijalna bolnica dr. Nemec ima tri vrhunski opremljene operacijske sale u kojima se najmodernijim metodama izvode sve vrste ortopedskih operativnih zahvata, a pacijentima su na raspolaganju luksuzno uređene bolesničke sobe

opremljene nadzornim sistemom za praćenje vitalnih funkcija u postoperativnom toku. Osnivač i direktor Specijalne bolnice, prof. dr. sc. Boris Nemec, jedan je od vodećih hrvatskih ortopeda i svjetski priznati stručnjak za područje liječenja povreda kukova i koljena - medicinskih problema vrlo karakterističnih za nogomet i sport općenito. U svojoj bogatoj profesionalnoj karijeri usavršavao se na prestižnim klinikama širom svijeta, unapređujući vlastitu operativnu tehniku i nudeći novu stručnu metodiku. Tako je i prepoznat kao jedan od prvih evropskih ljekara koji je napravio koštano-hrskavičnu transplantaciju bedrene kosti sa dijelom koljena, prvi je u Hrvatskoj obavio transplantaciju križnog ligamenta od donora te je prvi hirurg u regiji koji je započeo s artroskopskim zahvatima. Kvalitetu usluga i rada u ovoj bolnici prepoznali su brojni pacijenti, pa pored pacijenata iz cijele Hrvatske usluge u bolnici potražili su pacijenti iz daleke Australije, Kine, Rusije, Kanade i cijele Evrope.

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ZDRAVLJE / HEALTH

he team created by Prof. Boris Nemec Ph.D. has about 30 members of staff at the moment, including six specialists in orthopaedic surgery, one anaesthesiologist, about 20 nurses, two physical therapists, administrative and support staff. The Special Hospital in Matulji near Rijeka is a top of the line institution dedicated to treatment of injuries and diseases of the locomotor system. Professional team of medical experts, supported by other staff of the Hospital, uses the most recent surgical techniques in treatment of its patients, which guarantees fast and efficient postoperative recovery.

SPECIAL ORTHOPAEDICS AND GENERAL SURGERY HOSPITAL “DR NEMEC”

TOP TEAM FOR TREATMENT OF LOCOMOTOR DISEASES THE FIRST PRIVATE SPECIAL ORTHOPAEDICS HOSPITAL MARKED ITS 11TH ANNIVERSARY LAST YEAR, WITH OVER NINE THOUSAND SURGICAL PROCEDURES PERFORMED SINCE COMMENCEMENT OF ITS OPERATION

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- “Our priority is to select individually tailored treatment for each of our patients. For most patients, having a surgery is a very stressful experience. Calming environment, detailed discussion prior to the surgery and introduction of the patient to all phases and aspects of the procedure are fundamental to our approach to treatment”, highlights Dr Nemec, who also added that such approach guaranteed optimum outcome of the surgery and postoperative care.

The team of doctors and medical staff provides treatment in the area of orthopaedics and trauma of locomotor system and provides outpatient services of medical examination and treatment, specialist and preventive examinations in the area of orthopaedics, paediatric orthopaedics, traumatology and rheumatology as well as hip, knee, foot, shoulder, elbow and hand surgery. Special Hospital “Dr Nemec” has three state-of-the-art operating rooms, where all types of orthopaedic surgical procedures are performed using the latest cutting-edge methods. In addition, the

hospital has luxuriously furnished recovery rooms equipped with vital functions monitoring system used during post-operative recovery. Founder and Director of the Special Hospital, Prof. Boris Nemec Ph.D. is one of the leading Croatian orthopaedists and internationally acclaimed expert in the area of treatment of hip and knee injuries – medical issues typical in football and sport in general. During his rich professional career, Dr. Nemec furthered his medical education in the most prestigious clinics across the globe, improving his own operating techniques

and developing innovative, ground-breaking methodologies. He was widely recognised as one of the first European surgeons who performed bone-cartilage transplant of the femoral bone to the knee. He also was the first in Croatia to perform lumbar ligament transplant from donor tissue and was the first surgeon in the region to pioneer arthroscopy procedures. High quality services of the hospital have been recognised by countless patients, not just from Croatia, but from the far-away countries such as Australia, China, Russia, Canada and the entire Europe.

PROF. BORIS NEMEC , Ph.D. IS THE OFFICIAL PHYSICIAN OF THE CROATIAN NATIONAL FOOTBALL TEAM SINCE 1996.

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VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE / TIME FOR COOKING

KULINARSTVO

Lagani obroci

Ljetne Salate

SALATE SU IZVRSTAN IZVOR HRANJIVIH NAMIRNICA I NJIHOVO SPREMANJE NE IZISKUJE MNOGO VREMENA. OVISNO O OKOLNOSTIMA, SADRŽAJU, ONE SE MOGU POLUŽIVATI KAO PRILOG I SAMOSTALNO. POSEBNO POGODUJU ORGANIZMU PRILIKOM VISOKIH TEMPERATURA. POČNETE LI IH KONZUMIRATI NA SVAKODNEVNOJ OSNOVI, BIT ĆE TO JEDNA OD NAJZDRAVIJIH PREHRAMBENIH NAVIKA KOJU STE USVOJILI

Cezar salata Sastojci (2 osobe): • 1 glavica zelene salate • 1 veći češanj bijelog luka • 3 šnite hljeba • 3 kašike maslinovog ulja • 2 tvrdo kuhana jaja • mljeveni biber • 2 šake parmezana rezanog na listiće

Sastojci za dresing:

• 1 mala kašika senfa • 1/2 male kašike vinskog sirćeta • 2 kašike majoneze • 3 do 4 kašike maslinovog ulja • sok od limuna PRIPREMA: Odstranite koricu na hljebu, a mekani dio narežite na kockice. Operite salatu, osušite je, skuhajte jaja i ohladite ih. Potom na tavi zagrijte maslinovo ulje i dodajte sitno sjeckani bijeli luk, također hljeb i lagano posolite. Hljeb treba pržiti dok sa svih strana poprimi zlatnu boju i postane hrskav. Salatu posložite na tanjire kao podlogu. Na nju stavite tvrdo kuhana jaja rezana na ploške, parmezan i hljeb. Napravite dresing i prelijte ga preko salate. Posolite i pobiberite. 128

Krompir salata s tunjevinom

Pileća salata sa susamom

Sastojci (4 osobe):

Sastojci:

• 750g mladog krompira • 2 komadatune u biljnom ulju • 1 kašika nasjeckanog peršuna • 85g zelenih maslina punjenih pastom od paprike • 100g kukuruza šećerca • 1 kašika nasjeckanog vlasca • 60ml ekstra djevičanskog maslinovog ulja • 1 kašika vinskog sirćeta • 1 mala kašika naribane korice limuna • crni mljeveni biber • so PRIPREMA: U posoljenoj, kipućoj vodi kuhajte mladi krompir. Kada omekša,ocijedite ga i ostavite da se ohladi. Potom ga narežite na veće kocke i stavite u veliku zdjelu u koju također trebate dodati komade tune, nasjeckani peršun, narezane zelene masline, ocijeđeni kukuruz šećerac i vlasac. U posebnoj posudi dobro izmiješajte maslinovo ulje, vinski ocat, slatku papriku, biber i šećer, te prelijte preko smjese krompira. Po potrebi posolite.

• 1 pileća prsa • 500g šunke • 700g kisele pavlake • 15 kiselih krastavčića • 50g susama PRIPREMA: Obarite bijelo meso, te ga sitno isjeckajte kada se ohladi. Na kockice potom izrežite šunku i kisele krastavčice. Sve to sjedinite. Dodajte kiselu pavlaku i dobro izmiješajte. Propržite susam na suhoj tavi. Kada se ohladi, dodajte ga ostatku smjese, te sve dobro izmiješajte.

COOLINARY

Easy meals

Salads

SUMMER

SUMMER SALADS ARE EXCEPTIONAL SOURCES OF IMPORTANT NUTRIENTS, AND THEIR PREPARATION DOES NOT TAKE MUCH TIME. DEPENDING ON THE OCCASION AND INGREDIENTS, THEY CAN BE SERVED AS THE MAIN OR SIDE DISH. THEY ARE ESPECIALLY ENJOYABLE DURING THE HOT SUMMER DAYS. SHOULD YOU START CONSUMING THEM ON THE DAILY BASIS, IT IS GOING TO BE ONE OF THE HEALTHIEST NUTRITIONAL HABITS YOU HAVE EVER ADOPTED

Chicken salad with sesame seeds

Caesar salad Ingredients (2 persons): • 1 large head lettuce • 1 large garlic clove • 3 slices of bread • 3 tbsp olive oil • 2 hard boiled eggs • ground pepper • 2 handfuls of Parmesan cut into small slices

For dressing:

• 1 tsp mustard • 1/2 tsp wine vinegar • 2 tbsp mayonnaise • 3-4 tbsp olive oil • lemon juice PREPARATION: Prepare the bread by removing its crust, and cutting the soft parts into small cubes. Wash the lettuce and let it dry. Then, boil the eggs and let them cool. Heat up the olive oil in the frying pan. Add the garlic cut into small pieces, the bread and the pinch of salt. Fry the bread until golden and crusty from each side. Arrange the salad leaves on the plates. Fill them with hard boiled eggs cut into slices, Parmesan and bread. Make the dressing, and pour over the salad. Add salt and pepper.

Ingredients:

Potato and tuna salad Ingredients (4 persons) • 750g new potatoes • 2 pieces of tuna in vegetable oil • 1 tbsp parsley, chopped • 85g green olives, filled with pepper paste • 100g sweet corn • 1 tbsp chopped chives • 60 ml extra virgin olive oil • 1 tsp wine vinegar • 1 tsp lemon zest • ground black pepper • salt

• piece of chicken breast • 500g ham • 700g sour cream • 15 sour pickles • 50g sesame seeds PREPARATION Cook the meat briefly, let it cool, and cut into small pieces. Cut the ham and pickles into small cubes. Mix everything together. Add sour cream and mix well. Fry the sesame seeds in a dry pan, and let them cool. Then, add the seeds to the salad and combine everything together.

PREPARATION Boil the potatoes in salted, boiling water. When softened, drain and allow to cool. Then, cut the potatoes into large cubes and place them in a large bowl. Add the pieces of tuna, chopped parsley, chopped green olives, drained sweet corn and chives. Take another bowl and mix some olive oil, wine vinegar, sweet paprika, pepper and sugar. Pour this mixture over the potato salad. Add salt if necessary. 129

ZAVRTI GLOBUS / SPIN THE GLOBE

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

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