Furaj 07

Broj 07, Maj 2017.

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NASLOVNA

RAZLOGA ZAŠTO POSJETITI BiH / REASONS TO VISIT B&H

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

INDONEZIJA INDONESIA SARAJEVO BUSINESS FORUM 2017

INTERVJUI /INTERVIEWS AMELIA YANI GORAN MILIĆ AMER BUKVIĆ

INTERNATIONAL

UNA REGATTA

MoSTAR i t s o l t e j v s d a r G

SADRŽAJ 84

16 CONTENT

NOVOSTI 12

NEWS 12 COVERSTORY

TEMA BROJA

INDONESIA a Land of Dramatic Landscapes Amelia Yani, Ambassador of Indonesia to BiH Warm Soul of Indonesia Jakarta, the Most Beautiful Face of Indonesia Bali Island of Equilibrium, Temples and Smiles Komodo, Jurassic Park of Indonesia

INDONEZIJA zemlja dramatičnih pejzaža Amelia Yani, ambasadorica Indonezije u BiH Topla duša Indonezije Džakarta najljepše lice Indonezije Bali otok ravnoteže, hramova i osmijeha Komodo Jurski park Indonezije INTERVJUI & PRIČE Goran Milić, bard novinarstva U idealnim godinama za rad Amer Bukvić, generalni direktor BBI banke Strast vodi do pobjede!

Milomir Kovačević Strašni, kultni fotograf Moj život u Parizu Ilma Kazazić Lavica na skijama

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MY WONDERFUL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Awesome Una Regatta Sand pyramids near Foča The Blagaj Tekke A Mystical Place of Worship Mostar, the city of light

MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Urnebesna Una regata Pješčane piramide kod Foče Blagajska tekija, mistična bogomolja Mostar, grad svjetlost

FOTO EDITORIJAL 10 Reasons to Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina

FOTO EDITORIJAL 10 razloga zašto posjetiti Bosnu i Hercegovinu

TIME FOR COOKING Recipes for the Perfect Barbecue

VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE Recepti za savršen roštilj PREDSTAVLJAMO Hotel baština Ovo malo duše Konjički klubovi u Banjoj Luci Sarajevska bajka 6

INTERVIEWS & STORIES Goran Milić, the bard of journalism At the age ideal for work Amer Bukvić, BBI Bank General Manager Victories are driven by passion!

Milomir Kovačević Strašni, Iconic Photographer My life in Paris Ilma Kazazić Lioness on Skis8

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WE PRESENT This Little Bit of Soul (Ovo malo duše) Heritage Hotel Equestrian Clubs in Banja Luka Sarajevo Fairy Tale 7

Broj 07, Maj 2017.

IMPRESSUM

www.furaj.ba

S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Broj 07, Maj 2017.

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TRAVEL / DESTINATIONS / ADVENTURE

RAZLOGA ZAŠTO POSJETITI BiH / REASONS TO VISIT B&H

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

INDONEZIJA INDONESIA SARAJEVO BUSINESS FORUM 2017

INTERVJUI /INTERVIEWS AMELIA YANI GORAN MILIĆ AMER BUKVIĆ

INTERNATIONAL

www.furaj.ba

UNA REGATTA

MoSTAR Grad svjetlosti FURAJ.BA Magazine br. 07.

- Maj 2017 Direktor / Director Emira Azganović Izvršni urednik / Executive Editor Elma Zećo Redakcija / Editorial Abela Purivatra, Vedran Jakupović Daša Gajić Ivana Dukčević Sara Krajina Jazvić Dizajn / Design Damir Hrnjičić, WIRE, Digital Creative Agency

www.pixabay.com

Fotografije / Photo Sulejman Muratović Samir Zahiragić Depositphoto Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.

Umnožavanje ove publikacije ili bilo kojeg njeog dijela ne smije se reproducirati, pohranjivati u sistemu za pretraživanje ili prenositi u bilo kojem obliku na bilo koji način, elektronički, mehanički, fotokopiranjem, snimanjem ili na drugi način, bez odobrenja izdavača. Redakcija FURAJ.BA magazina ne odgovara za sadržaj i istinitost objavljenih reklamnih poruka i preuzetih sadržaja sa pomenutih ili oglašavanih elektronskih lokacija. Ne snosimo odgovornost za nenamjerne i štamparske greške.

Uvodnik

Intro

U vremenu kada planiramo odmore, možda bismo trebali razmisliti i o egzotičnim destinacijama. Takva je prelijepa Indonezija, zemlja ljubaznih ljudi, prirodnih blaga, inspirativnih hramova, ritmičnih plesova. O svemu tome možete pročitati na stranicama novog izdanja. Osim toga, tu je i pregršt drugih dobrih priča koje smo željeli podijeliti s vama.

At a time when we are planning our vacations, we might think about exotic destinations as well. Such is the beautiful Indonesia, a land of kind people, natural treasures, inspirational temples, rhythmic dances. You can read about all this on the pages of the new edition. Also, there are quite a few other good stories we wanted to share with you.

Kao što proljeće budi prirodu, tako i cijela sezona sunca oživi gradove, ispuni turistima njegove ulice, lijepe ljetne bašte, donese festivale, nova putovanja, susrete, ali i reprizu starih dobrih iskustava. Tako je naš magazin medijski partner i ovogodišnjeg velikog događaja Sarajevo Business Foruma, koji će na jednom mjestu okupiti ljude dobrih poslovnih ideja i potencijalne investitore. Izuzetno nas čini ponosnim što će se i naš rad vidjeti na forumu. Naime, svaki učesnik dobit će po jedan primjerak magazina Furaj.ba, te se tom prilikom, između ostalog, informisati o ljepotama, zanimljivostima i uspješnim ljudima domovine – sve su to razlozi zašto ovdje vrijedi doći!

Just like the spring awakens the nature, so the whole season of sunshine revives the cities, fills its streets and beautiful summer gardens with tourists, brings festivals, new trips, encounters, but also a re-run of good old experiences. So this year too our magazine is a media partner of a big event Sarajevo Business Forum, which will bring together people of good business ideas and potential investors in one place. It makes us extremely proud that our work will be seen in the forum too. Each participant will receive one copy of the magazine Furaj.ba, and will, among other things, be informed about the beauties, the interesting things and successful people of the country – these are all the reasons why it is worth to pay it a visit!

Ambasada Indonezije

Multiplication of this publication or any part of it mustn’t be reproduced, stored in search engines or transferred in any form, in any way, electronically, mechanically, copying, recording or any other way without the publisher’s approval. The editorial staff of the Furaj.ba magazine takes no responsibilities for the content and the validity of published advertising messages and downloaded content from above mentioned or advertised electronic sources.

We don’t take responsibility for inadvertent and typographical errors.

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NOVOSTI / NEWS

SPARKASSE BANK U okviru poslovnice Sparkasse Bank na adresi Ferhadija br. 23, u centru Sarajeva, otvorena je prva automatizovana 24h zona ove banke, koja će nuditi automatizovane usluge: podizanje gotovine, pregled stanja na računu, promjena PIN-a i brzi krediti na ATM uređaju. Osim toga, na multifunkcijskom ATM-u korisnici zone će moći i konvertovati valute te uplaćivati sredstva na svoje račune otvorene u Sparkasse Bank. Na ovaj način šalterska usluga banke postaje dostupna u bilo kojem momentu.

SPARKASSE BANK Within the branch of Sparkasse Bank at Ferhadija no. 23, in the centre of Sarajevo, the first automated 24h zone of this bank was opened, which will offer automated services: cash withdrawal, account overview, PIN change and ATM fast loans. In addition, multifunctional ATMs will allow users of the zone to convert currencies and pay funds into their Sparkasse Bank accounts. The window banking service thus becomes available at any moment

ALMA RAS I MANNERS Uspješna bh. kompanija Alma Ras uvijek donosi novitete u sezonskim kolekcijama. Sve dame iz kolekcije proljeće-ljeto 2017. očekuje raznovrstan asortiman, počevši od udobnih kvalitetnih modela, pa do onih s pomno odabranim suptilnim detaljima koji će učiniti da se osjećaju ženstveno i seksepilno.

Modeli od mikromodalnih vlakana u ekskluzivnoj liniji zadovoljit će sve potrebe ambicioznih muškaraca.

Pored iznimne mekoće, dodaci poput brendirane gume u kombinaciji sa sjajnim i mat efektom na boksericama, te majice s elegantnim V-izrezom, unijet će dozu profinjenosti i jasno definisanog stila

ALMA RAS AND MANNERS SHIRAZ TODAY The prominent photojournalist from Tuzla, Samir Zahirović, took part from 1 May to 5 May in the International Photo Festival Shiraz Today in Iran. He was one of only two representatives from Europe, alongside the photographer from Romania. The city of Shiraz was founded a long time ago. It is famous for its many historical monuments, but it is also considered as the city of poets, wine and flowers.

Successful BH. company Alma Ras always brings novelties in their seasonal collections. The ladies can expect a diverse assortment from the spring-summer 2017 collection, ranging from comfortable quality models to those with carefully selected subtle details that will make them feel feminine and sexy. Micromodal fibers from the exclusive line will satisfy all the needs of ambitious men. Apart from the extra softness, accessories such as the branded elasticated waist combined with a shiny and matte effect on boxer shorts, as well as t-shirts with elegant V-shapes, will add a touch of refinement of a clearly defined style.

SHIRAZ TODAY Istaknuti tuzlanski fotoreporter Samir Zahirović učestvovao je od 1. do 5. maja na internacionalnom foto festivalu Shiraz Today u Iranu. Bio je jedan od samo dva predstavnika iz Evrope, uz fotografa iz Rumunije. Grad Shiraz nastao je davno. Poznat je po brojnim historijskim spomenicima, a važi i za grad pjesnika, vina i cvijeća.

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EXCLUSIVE LINE www.manners.ba

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NOVOSTI / NEWS

SKOKOVI U JAJCU Najhrabriji skakači među stanovnicima Jajca oduvijek su uživali u nesvakidašnjoj zabavi skačući iz rijeke Plive preko vodopada u rijeku Vrbas, a kada je produbljena bućnica ispod vodopada, Jajce je dobilo i novu turističku atrakciju – skokove s vodopada, kada takmičari skakači iz različitih krajeva hrabro odmjeravaju umijeća svojih skokova. Međunarodni skokovi s vodopada u Jajcu, četvrti po redu, ove godine održat će se 5. augusta.

TURISTIČKA ZAJEDNICA KANTONA SARAJEVA

Promocija Sarajeva širom svijeta

WATER JUMPING IN JAJCE The bravest jumpers among the inhabitants of Jajce have always enjoyed in an unusual fun, jumping from the river Pliva through the waterfall into the river Vrbas, and when the splashing point beneath the waterfall was deepened, Jajce got a new tourist attraction - waterfall jumps, where competing jumpers from various regions courageously measure the skill of their jumps.

The International waterfall jumps in Jajce, fourth in a row, will be held this year on August 5th.

PROLJETNA SVJEŽINA • 2 polupansiona – 3 dana kupanja • Besplatan ulaz u Svijet sauna Wellness centra Termalija TERME OLIMIA Hotel Breza

3.5. – 31.5.2017. | 176 € već od 128 € Cijene po osobi u dvokrevetnoj sobi. Popusti se međusobno isključuju.

Zadržavamo pravo promjene cijena i ostalih prodajnih uvjeta.

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Novoosnovana Turistička zajednica Kantona Sarajevo čini sve na stvaranju pozitivnog imidža Sarajeva i njegove prirodom bogate okoline u svijetu. Njene promotivne aktivnosti u posljednje vrijeme odvijale su se pretežno na sajmovima turizma u različitim zemljama. Sve je počelo s gostovanjem na Beogradskom sajmu turizma, a nastavilo se u saradnji s Turkish Airlinesom iz Sarajeva na Filipinima i u Singapuru. Ova popularna kompanija tamo je organizovala prezentaciju BiH za predstavnike preko sto agencija. Tada su neke od njih na licu mjesta uvrstile i našu zemlju na listu svojih turističkih ponuda.

Promotivna putovanja obuhvatila su i Međunarodni sajam turizma u Rijadu, a bili su također na Arabian

Travel Marketu u Dubaiju zajedno s još nekolicinom domaćih turističkih agencija i hotela. Najveći broj pitanja vezanih za naše podneblje odnosio se na prirodne ljepote, za koje je, kao što je već poznato, arapsko stanovništvo najvećim dijelom i zainteresovano.

Vrijedni predstavnici novoosnovane Turističke agencije Kantona Sarajevo uvjereni su da turizam u BiH može izrasti u ozbiljnu privrednu granu, te će i u narednom periodu činiti sve što je u njihovoj moći kako bi Sarajevo bilo u žiži interesovanja turista.

Promotivne aktivnosti, prema njihovom planu, nastavit će se na sajmovima u Kini, na Tajvanu, te u Londonu.

SARAJEVO CANTON TOURIST COMMUNITY

Promoting Sarajevo around the World The newly-founded Sarajevo Canton Tourist Community is doing its best to create a positive image around the world of Sarajevo and its natural surroundings. Its promotional activities have recently taken place at tourism fairs in various countries.

It all began with participation at the Belgrade Tourism Fair, and continued in the Philippines and Singapore in cooperation with Turkish Airlines. There, Turkish Airlines delivered a presentation about Bosnia and Herzegovina for more than a hundred travel agencies, some of which included Bosnia and Herzegovina in their travel offers.

Promotional trips included the International Tourism Fair in Riyadh and the Arabian Travel Market in Dubai, along with a few BiH travel agencies and hotels. Most of the questions asked related to this region concerned the natural beauty which is something that interests the Arabs the most.

Dedicated representatives of the newly founded Sarajevo Canton Tourist Community are convinced that tourism in BiH can grow into a successful industry and are committed to keeping Sarajevo in the centre of tourists’ interests.

They plan to continue their promotional activities at fairs in China, Taiwan and the UK. Slika: Nermin Muzur, predsjednik Turističke zajednice KS i Faruk Čaluk, direktor Ureda za podršku turizmu Turističke zajednice KS. Photo: Nermin Muzur, President of the Sarajevo Canton Tourist Community, and Faruk Čaluk, Tourist Support Office of the Sarajevo Canton Tourist Community.

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S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

GORAN MILIĆ, BARD NOVINARSTVA

U IDEALNIM godinama za rad “NAJVIŠE VOLIM KADA MI NEKI KLINCI NA ULICI KAŽU: ‘JESTE LI VI ONAJ ŠTO PRAVI EMISIJE PO SVIJETU, MISLI SE NA ONE DOK SAM RADIO NA HRT-U, ILI KADA NEKI JOŠ MLAĐI DJEČAK DOBACI: ‘ALHEMIJA, ALHEMIJA...”

Razgovarala: ELMA ZEĆO, Fotografije: EDVIN KALIĆ

I

ntervju smo radili baš kada se dugogodišnji novinar, urednik i direktor brojnih medijskih kuća, cijenjen širom bivše države, Goran Milić, danas savjetnik na Al Jazeeri Balkans, pripremao da se ovoga puta u potpunosti preseli u Zagreb iz Sarajeva. Već godinu dana nije direktor vijesti i programa na pomenutoj televiziji, ali je zato radio zanimljive serijale o Sloveniji i Kosovu. I nema govora o povlačenju iz profesionalnog života.

“Planiram napraviti projekat o usporedbi vremena komunizma i današnje demokratije. Mislim da će se ljudi oko toga dosta uzbuđivati i svađati.”

NA SVIM STRANAMA SVIJETA Kako je Vaš otac bio diplomata, još kao dijete bili ste naviknuti da mijenjate životnu sredinu. Koja sve mjesta doživljavate kao svoj dom?

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– Zagreb, Sarajevo, Beograd, naravno, poslije onoga što se u ratu dogodilo, Beograd mi je ponešto devalvirao, ali sam ipak tamo živio 20 godina, najvažniji dio mladosti, i mnogo je mjesta u tom gradu koja bude lijepa sjećanja. Kada bih morao izabrati grad da u njemu živim, to bi bio Split. Isto tako, da mi neko ponudi 20 miliona eura, koje ne mogu potrošiti do kraja života nikako, i kaže da moram živjeti u jednoj državi, rekao bih da uzme

PREDNOST STAROSTI “Lakše je kada čovjek stvara u godinama, nego mlađem čovjeku, koji se užasno boji greške i koji će popiti kritiku čak ako se i kamera pokvari, iako objektivno nije kriv. U starosti imate pravo na grešku, barem jednu, i onda vam se ona ne događa često. Kod mladih je drugačije. Stalno su na rubu žileta i nije im lako.”

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

pare nazad. Osjećao bih se kao u zatvoru. Šta će Vam uvijek biti prve asocijacije na Sarajevo?

– Uspomene iz rata. Dijelite sudbinu s ljudima, bojite se, ljudi vam pomažu i imate osjećaj da bi taj grad za vas učinio mnogo toga, a i jeste učinio. Što se tiče gostoprimstva, lakoće komuniciranja, zanimanja jednih za druge, Sarajevo je ispred drugih gradova.

Profesionalno ste bili na svim kontinentima. Pamtite li neku zemlju u kojoj ste s najvećim uživanjem radili na svom putopisu?

– Argentinu volim od srca, ali shvatio sam da je Australija uz Kanadu odraz najbolje kvalitete života.

Dojmio me je spoj civiliziranosti i prirode. U Australiji postoji najviše otrovnica, paukova, hobotnica, zmija, pitaj Boga čega, na svijetu, međutim, posljednjih deset godina niko nije umro. Oni puste da otrovna zmija dođe u Sydney, dok s druge strane imaju uvijek spremnu medicinsku službu i dobro pripremljen narod za ovakve situacije.

U Brisbaneu, za vrijeme poplava, kada je jedna majka idući kroz vodu dozivala svog sina da dođe k njoj, radoznalo sam upitao šta je dijete učinilo, a odgovor je glasio da nije dijete već krokodil. Poplava je donijela krokodila, koji sada može pojesti dijete. To su ti šokovi. Au-

stralijance krasi veliki patriotizam.

Imaju milion rješenja, barem za sada, da se spriječi polarizacija društva na šačicu bogatih i većinu siromašnih. Tamo ko god radi ili ne radi, kada napuni 65 godina, ima penziju. Ako ima para, onda nema penziju. Ako nema, onda je ima. To je 1300 dolara. Varanje sistema se jako kažnjava i kontrolira. Shvatili su da se to ne isplati, dok je kod nas na Balkanu život sa sitnim prevarama uzbudljiv.

Kao iskusnom putniku, šta bi Vam danas bio još uvijek izazov?

– Da se popnem na egipatsku piramidu. Peo sam se na meksičku piramidu i shvatio da je strašno sići. Nemaš takav osjećaj dok ideš prema vrhu, jer si nagnut naprijed i ne razmišljaš, ali kada kreneš nazad, dolje vidiš male ljude, ispred sebe uske stube, a moj broj cipela je 46. Ako bi pao, ne bih se do dna zaustavio.

VELIKI GUŠT U novinarstvu ste preko 40 godina. Šta Vam je najteže padalo u karijeri?

– Svaki put kada bi me etiketirali da imam neku namjeru, ili koncepciju, koja bi bila katastrofa za svijet, a da ti niko ne da šansu da objasniš.

U tom trenutku je mobing, rulja je protiv tebe, možda se čak ta neka masa, koja te je ranije podupirala, sada okrenula protiv tebe. Ne zna-

ljude, posebno kada se opuste i zaborave na kameru, a uvijek me ugodno iznenadi neko za koga sam mislio da neće.

Kako se upisati u kategoriju najkvalitetnijih, imate li savjet za mlađe kolege?

či uopće da si pogriješio, ili da, s druge strane, nisi napravio grešku kada je ljudi ne primijete, ili čak vole. No, najstresnije je kada mnogo ljudi misli da si nešto pogrešno uradio i to izražava lovom, nekada i nasilnim.

Koji uspjeh lično doživljavate kao najdraži?

– Najviše volim kada mi neki klinci na ulici kažu: ‘Jeste li vi onaj što pravi emisije po svijetu, misli se na one dok sam radio na HRT-u, ili kada neki još mlađi dječak dobaci: ‘Alhemija, alhemija...” Ima i onih starih ljudi koji se sjećaju mog izvještavanja iz New Yorka prije 35 godina. ‘Kakav si ono bio, mršav, a vidi sada kakav si’, reći će neko od njih, što mi je veliki gušt.

A koji tip sagovornika Vam je najviše prijao?

– Neki srednji, ni ekstrovertni, ni samozatajni. Najviše volim obične

PRIJEDLOZI ZA TURISTE “Ko dođe u BiH, trebao bi posjetiti Neum, tekiju na Buni, Međugorje, Kravice, Neretvu, koja je najljepša rijeka u BiH, Jajce sa njegovim ludim spomenicima, vidjeti Sarajevo i sve njegove znamenitosti, otići kod Gojka, na Boračko jezero, slapove Une..., ali Neretva je the best, ona ima sve boje i sve tajne. Također, na potezu iz glavnog grada prema Drini nalazi se Jankovićev hotel. Taj čovjek je živio 40 godina u Njemačkoj i sav svoj novac uložio u hotel napravljen uz cestu s najljepšom zelenom travom koju sam vidio u BiH. Vani su tri platoa za goste, jedan gdje se pije kafa s pogledom na kanjon Drine, drugi gdje se jede, te treći uz samu rijeku gdje se može konzumirati piće.

Radom nije bio zadovoljan. Iznenadio sam se kada je na moj upit koliko bi koštalo noćenje za 12 ljudi s doručkom, rekao 60 EUR sve zajedno. Preporučujem ga, da čovjeka izvadimo. Od poslovnih čuda koje vrijedi vidjeti je tvornica FEAL iz Širokog Brijega, gdje se prave i dijelovi za Bentley. Nestvarno je šta je uspio napraviti Jozo Bogdan.

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– Veoma malo ljudi od početka pokaže svoj talenat, drugo, postoji odbor urednika koji misli da iskorak u TV formi, načinu kazivanja, nije primjeren mladom čovjeku. ‘Došao je s ulice i sad pravi neke kadrove, najave, koji se ne prave’, obično su komentari. Stoga novinar treba kad-tad u nekom intervjuu, izvještaju, koji urednik ne može skratiti, cenzurirati, ako ide uživo, ili u novinama kada ga nema, napraviti nešto u što čvrsto vjeruje i za što ima dokaze, ali što podiže buru. Rasplet je sljedeći: ili će biti suspendiran, ili će biti novinar godine.

Sada kada imate više vremena za sebe, kojim aktivnostima ispunjavate slobodno vrijeme?

– Za kompjuterom sjedim do otprilike dva, tri sata popodne, a onda odlazim u kvartovski kafić. U Zagrebu je to Dante, a u Sarajevu Sami na Kovačićima. Birajući kafić, gledam da je dovoljno veliki, da postoji 100, 150 ljudi koji tu gravitiraju. Onda analiziram kako im ide. U Samiju sam šest godina, čujem ko je osiromašio, ko je dobro prošao, kome se rodilo dijete, ko se razveo..., tačno vidiš jednu socijalnu sliku ljudi, jer tu dolaze i vodoinstalater i čovjek iz državne uprave. Sada dominira obična raja, veoma zanimljiva. Svako ima svoju povijest. To volim.

Imate li neostvarenu profesionalnu želju?

– Ona je uvijek neostvarena s nekom ličnošću koju bi sada svi htjeli intervjuisati, naprimjer, da sjedneš i pričaš s Putinom sat vremena, a može i s Trumpom.

GORAN MILIĆ, THE BARD OF JOURNALISM

At the age for

IDEAL FOR WORK “I LIKE IT BEST WHEN SOME KIDS IN THE STREET SAY: ‘ARE YOU THE GUY WHO’S SHOOTING DOCUMENTARIES ALL OVER THE WORLD?’ THEY HAVE IN MIND THE ONES I SHOT BACK WHEN I WORKED FOR HRT. OR, WHEN AN EVEN YOUNGER BOY SHOUTS: ‘ALCHEMY, ALCHEMY…” Interviewed by: ELMA ZEĆO, Photo: EDVIN KALIĆ 19

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

W

e conducted the interview at the time when long-standing journalist, editor and manager of numerous media companies, renowned across former Yugoslavia, at present an advisor to Al Jazeera, Goran Milić, was getting ready to move from Sarajevo to Zagreb, this time completely. He has not been working as the news anchor and programme host at Al Jazeera, but he did some interesting multiple-episode documentaries about Slovenia and Kosovo. Retiring from professional life is out of the question.

“I plan to create a project comparing the communist era and today’s democracy. I think it’ll cause a lot of commotion and argument among people.”

IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD Your father was a diplomat, so you were used to changes in your living environment since you were a child. What places do you think of as your home?

– Zagreb, Sarajevo, Belgrade; of course, after what happened during the war, Belgrade has lost something of its value, but I did live there for 20 years, during the most important part of my youth, and there are a lot of places in that city

that evoke nice memories. If I had to choose a place to live in, I’d choose Split. Also, if someone offered me 20 million euros, which is an amount I wouldn’t be able to spend for as long as I live, and if I had to spend it in a single country, I’d tell them they can have their money back. I’d feel as if I were in prison.

What will always be your first associations to Sarajevo?

– War memories. You’re sharing the fate with other people, you’re fighting, people are helping you and you have a feeling that this town would do so much for you, and it has done so much for you.

When it comes to hospitality, ease of communication and the interest in each other, Sarajevo is ahead of other cities.

Professionally, you’ve been to all the continents. Is there a country particularly memorable in which you enjoyed shooting your travel documentary?

– I love Argentina dearly, but I’ve come to realise that Australia, next to Canada, reflects the best quality of life. I was impressed by the effortless blend of civilisation and nature. Australia has the greatest number of poisonous snakes, spiders, octopuses, snakes, God knows what, in the world; however,

over the last ten years nobody has died from it. Snakes might crawl freely into Sydney, but Sydney’s emergency services are always ready and its people are well-trained for such situations. In Brisbane, during the floods, I heard a woman calling for her son to come to her; I inquired with curiously about what the child did, and she told me that it wasn’t a child but a crocodile. The crocodile came with the flood, and now there was a danger of it eating a child. That’s what I find really shocking. Australians are greatly patriotic. They have a million solutions, at least for now, to prevent social polarisation between a handful of rich people and a majority of poor people. Anyone who works or doesn’t work, is entitled to a pension once they turn 65. If they have money, they don’t get a pension. If they don’t have money, then they get it. That amounts to 1300 dollars.

Cheating the system is highly punishable and controlled. They came to realise that it doesn’t pay off, while here in the Balkans, a little bit of cheating makes life exciting.

Being an experienced traveller, what would you say would still be a challenge for you today?

– To climb the Egyptian pyramid. I climbed the Mexican pyramid and I realised that coming down the pyramid is what’s terrifying. When

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TOURISTS “Whoever comes to Bosnia and Herzegovina should visit Neum, the Buna Tekke, Međugorje, Kravice Waterfalls, the Neretva River, which is the most beautiful river in BiH, Jajce with its crazy monuments; the should explore Sarajevo and see all of its landmarks, visit Gojko’s Restaurant, the Boračko Lake, the cascades of Una… but Neretva is the best; it’s got all the colours and secrets. Moreover, on the way to the Drina River, there’s the Janković Hotel.

Mr Janković lived in Germany for 40 years, and then invested all of his money into a hotel next to the road with the most beautiful green grass I’ve seen in BiH. Outside, there are three plateaus for visitors: the first, which offers a view of the Drina canyon, reserved for drinking coffee; the second, reserved for eating; and the third, reserved for drinking. He wasn’t happy with how his business was going. Upon inquiring how much it would cost to accommodate 12 people for one night, breakfast included, I was surprised to hear that it would amount to 60 euros in total.

I recommend him to help him get on his feet. One of the business miracles worth seeing is the FEAL factory in Široki Brijeg which produces components for Bentle. What Jozo Bogdan managed to create is surreal.

you’re climbing it, you don’t feel it because you’re bent over and you don’t think, but when you start coming down, you see tiny people down below, you see narrow steps in front of you, and my shoe size is 46. If I were to fall, I wouldn’t stop until I reached the bottom.

Now that you have more time for yourself, how do you spend your free time?

A GREAT GUSTO You have been a journalist for over 40 years. What did you find to be the most difficult aspect of your professional career?

– Each time they put a label on me that I have an ulterior motive or a concept which would be incomprehensible to many, nobody would give me a chance to explain myself.

That’s when the mobbing happens, and you have the mob breathing down your neck; the crowd that used to support you has now turned against you. It doesn’t mean you’ve made a mistake at all, or that, on the other hand, you didn’t make a mistake when it goes unnoticed, or when people would like you to.

But, what I find most stressful is having a lot of people think that you did something wrong and they start hunting you down, sometimes even resorting to violence.

Which of your successes it your personal favourite?

– I like it best when some kids in the street say: ‘Are you the guy who’s shooting documentaries all over the world?’ They have in mind the ones I shot back when I worked for HRT. Or, when an even younger boy shouts: ‘Alchemy, alchemy…’”

There are also the old people who remember how I reported from New York 35 years ago. ‘And to think how thin you used to be… and look at you now,” some would say, and I’m glad to hear it.

What type of interviewees do you like the most?

– The regular ones, neither extro-

20

the journalist of the year.

verts nor introverts. I love ordinary people the most, especially when they become relaxed and forget about the camera, and I’m always pleasantly surprised by someone I didn’t think expect to.

How to become one of the top journalists? What advice would you give to your younger colleagues?

– Not many people show their talent at the very beginning. Also, the editorial board thinks that it’s not appropriate for a young journalist to make innovations in TV formats or the speaking style. ‘He came straight from the streets and now he’s making some shots and story intros which just aren’t made,’ is the general comment. Thus, now and then in an interview or a report which can’t be cut or censored by the editor and which is going live, or in a newspaper in which there’s no editor, a journalist eventually needs to do something he strongly believes in and has evidence for, and which causes an uproar. The outcome is as follows: he’s either going to be suspended or become

– I spend some two to three hours in the afternoon working on my computer, and then I head out to the neighbourhood café. In Zagreb, it’s Dante, and in Sarajevo, it’s Sami in the Kovačići neighbourhood.

When I’m choosing a café, I want it to be large enough to accommodate 100-150 people who frequent it.

Then I analyse how successful the café is. I’ve been frequenting Sami for six years. I get to hear who fell into poverty, who made the best of a given situation, who got a child, who got divorced… you can clearly see people’s social image, because a plumber and a civil servant come here. Now, regular folks, interesting folks, are predominant.

Everyone’s got their own story. I love it.

Do you have an unfulfilled wish related to your profession?

– It’s always unfulfilled as there’s always someone everyone would like to talk to; for example, to sit and talk to Putin for an hour, or to Trump.

Benefits of the Old Age “It’s easier for an elderly man to create than for a young man who is terribly afraid of making mistakes and who’ll take criticism even if the camera is broken, even though it wasn’t actually not his fault. You are allowed to err in the old age, at least once, and they you don’t repeat it very often. It’s different with young people. They’re constantly on the brink of making a mistake and they’re having a difficult time.”

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

Prelijepa

Indonezija

ZEMLJA 255 MILIONA LJUDI, 17.508 MANJIH I VEĆIH OTOKA, 150 VULKANA, NAJVEĆEG CVIJETA NA SVIJETU, TO JE INDONEZIJA, ČIJE LJEPOTE MNOGI DOŽIVLJAVAJU KAO DAŠAK RAJA NA ZEMLJI. OVA NAJVEĆA OTOČNA DRŽAVA NA SVIJETU UKRAŠENA JE OSIM PRIRODNIM LJEPOTAMA I SPECIFIČNOSTIMA, TAKOĐER MOZAIKOM HISTORIJE, KULTURE I RELIGIJE VRIJEDNOG DIVLJENJA.

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Wonderful

Indonesia

A LAND OF 255 MILLION PEOPLE, 17,508 SMALLER AND LARGER ISLANDS, 150 VOLCANOES, THE LARGEST FLOWER IN THE WORLD, THAT IS INDONESIA, WHOSE BEAUTY MANY PEOPLE EXPERIENCE AS A LITTLE SLICE OF HEAVEN ON EARTH. THIS LARGEST ISLAND COUNTRY IN THE WORLD IS BLESSED WITH, APART FROM ITS NATURAL BEAUTIES AND PECULIARITIES, A MOSAIC OF HISTORY, CULTURE AND RELIGION WORTH ADMIRING.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

NJENA EKSELENCIJA AMELIA YANI, AMBASADORICA INDONEZIJE U BIH

Topla duša KADA OTVORI KNJIGU KOJU JE POSVETILA SVOM OCU, GENERALU AHMADU YANIJU, KOJI SE POŠTUJE KAO HEROJ REVOLUCIJE U INDONEZIJI, I VIDI NJEGOVU SLIKU ZAJEDNO S TITOM, PRISJETI SE VREMENA KADA JE ON DOLAZIO NA OVE PROSTORE ZBOG KUPOVINE ORUŽJA I VOJNE MUNICIJE, TE POMISLI DA NI NJU NIJE TEK TAKO SUDBINA DOVELA Razgovarala: ELMA ZEĆO, Foto: IRFAN REDŽOVIĆ

J

oš na ulazu u ambasadu Republike Indonezije u Sarajevu počinjete osjećati kolika prostranstva, prije svega ljubaznosti, krase živopisnu i mnogoljudnu zemlju jugoistočne Azije. Uposlenik koji izlazi iz ambasade ipak neće proći a da vas ne upita da li vam može pomoći, dok će vas do ambasadorice odvesti uposlenica ne skidajući osmijeh s lica. Onda slijedi topli stisak ruke ambasadorice Amelije Yani, koja je impresionirana BiH. Koliko, najbolje ilustruje sinovljeva opaska da bi najbolje bilo da ovdje ostane do kraja života.

Nađimo se na polju biznisa Drugi ste ambasador Indonezije u našoj zemlji. Koji su Vaši planovi?

– Želim građane BiH pobliže upoznati s Indonezijom. Zemlja je 24

daleko, 14 sati leta i pet, šest sati vremenske razlike, skupo je i za Indonežane da dođu ovdje kao i za građane BiH da otputuju tamo.

Obje zemlje nude divne stvari.

Indonezija nudi mnogo sunca, more, plaže. Pokušat ću prikazati njenu suštinu. Kada je svojevremeno organizovan diplomatski prijem povodom našeg Dana državnosti, dva prelijepa plesača iz centralne Jave izvela su performans uz muziku. Možda je čudno zazvučala Bosancima i Hercegovcima, ali to je Indonezija, to je njena kultura, to smo mi – 255 milona ljudi s 1.900.000 kilometara od istoka do zapada duž obale. I u BiH žive Indonežani. Čak dvadeset žena iz Indonezije ima muževe iz BiH. S djecom ih je sada 50. Djeca imaju dvojna državljanstva, a kada napune 18 moći će birati šta žele biti.

Prelijepa su, izgledaju tako kao da će postati manekeni ili filmske zvijezde jednoga dana (smijeh).

Na ovogodišnjem Sarajevo Business Forumu Indonezija se nalazi među zemljama u fokusu. Prema Vašem mišljenju, u kojim se sve pravcima može odvijati poslovna saradnja između naše dvije zemlje?

– Trgovina, izvoz i uvoz mogu se značajno unaprijediti. Indonezija ima gumu, kafu, čaj, tropsko drvo, bambus, tropsko voće kao što su papaja, ananas, mango, longan, liči, rambutan, nangka, sve vrste banana, durian, te mnoštvo drugog konzervisanog voća. Također proizvodimo tekstil, tkane materijale, batik i svilu, ali i palmino i kokosovo ulje.

S druge strane, BiH ima svoje proizvode od drveta, posebno borove, orahove i hrastove. Osim toga, tu je ulje od suncokreta i maslina, potom mlijeko, mesni proizvodi, koža, sir, brašno, te industrija oružja. Državna firma Pindad je kupila 11 miliona projektila i isto toliko kapisla od kompanije Igman iz Konjica. Nadam se da će se saradnja nastaviti.

Indonezija je velika zemlja i veliko tržište za BiH. Stoga je dobro da se poslovni ljudi i jedne i druge zemlje susretnu na polju biznisa. Šta ima BiH što može biti zanimljivo Indoneziji, te obrnuto?

– Obje zemlje su podjednako krasne za posjetiti. Dok je jedna na ekvatoru s bijelim pijeskom, pink plažom, 25

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY vijeka u domenu municije i oružja, te pokreta nesvrstanih. Šta biste preporučili svim turistima da vide u Indoneziji?

– Svako želi otići na Bali, no rekla bih da to treba biti posljednja destinacija.

Prije svega treba doći u Džakartu, vidjeti njen Stari grad gdje se osjeti nizozemski utjecaj. Najbolje je to učiniti predvečer, jer je veoma vruće. Vrijedi potom otići do centralne Jave gdje ćete vidjeti čuveni budistički hram Borobudur, ali i sve druge prelijepe budističke i hinduističke hramove, performanse koji se tu dešavaju. Uz Bali također je zanimljiv otok Sumatra. Može se otići i do istočnog dijela Indonezije, ali je daleko. Teško je otići u Indoneziju i vidjeti sve, jer je velika i za sve je potreban novac. Sve zavisi i šta ljudi vole, ali tamo se svako može kretati u pravcu svojih interesa. Osim privlačnih destinacija, Indonezija je zemlja sa 150 vulkana i najvećim cvijetom na svijetu, koji se zove Rafflesia Arnoldi.

HER EXCELLENCY AMELIA YANI, AMBASSADOR OF INDONESIA TO BIH

Warm Soul of

Indonesia

WHEN SHE OPENS A BOOK DEDICATED TO HER FATHER, GENERAL AHMAD YANI, WHO IS RESPECTED AS A HERO OF THE REVOLUTION IN INDONESIA, AND SEES A PHOTO WHERE HE IS TOGETHER WITH TITO, SHE RECALLS THE TIMES WHEN HE CAME TO THESE REGIONS TO PURCHASE WEAPONS AND MILITARY AMMUNITION AND THINKS THAT SHE TOO WAS NOT BROUGHT HERE BY FATE WITHOUT REASON

Kakve su Vaše impresije o BiH?

vulkanima, morem, brojnim ribama, rakovima, jastozima kao i mnoštvom kokosovih palmi, druga ima bogatu kulturu, lijepe predjele, smaragdno zelenu vodu, lijepi Mostar, Blagaj, Jajce i još mnogo toga.

Svestrana sam osoba

poštuje kao heroj revolucije. Bila sam tužna, ljuta. Povukla sam se u jedno malo mjesto i tu provela 20 godina. U suštini, svestrana sam osoba. Mogu biti i farmer, i diplomata, mogu biti bilo šta. A ambasadorica sam postala na prijedlog generala Wiranta, koji jeministar koordinator za politiku i sigurnost

sadašnje vlade. Predsjednik se složio. Tako je BiH prva zemlja u kojoj obnašam funkciju ambasadora. Prelistavajući knjigu koju sam napisala o ocu, njegova slika s predsjednikom Titom me podsjeti da je i on svojevremeno ovdje dolazio. Jugoslavija i Indonezija blisko su sarađivale 60-ih godina prošlog

Koliko dugo ste u diplomatiji?

– Diplomatija zapravo nije moj put.

Moju karijeru prožimaju rad s Ujedinjenim nacijama, Ministarstvom vanjskih poslova i UNDP-om u Džakarti. Potom se moj život promijenio. Moj otac, Ahmad Yani, ubijen je. Bio je general u vojsci i danas se 26

Šta bi bila Vaša omiljena turistička destinacija?

– Kako je moj otac iz centralne Jave, a mama s Balija, uvijek ih ističem. To je dio mog identiteta. Indonežani su općenito prijatni i ljubazni ljudi. No, na Javi su iznad toga – nemjerljivo prijatni i ljubazni. Uvijek nježno razgovaraju. To mnoge iznenadi.

– Mjesta koja sam vidjela su magična, lijepa, nema gužvi u saobraćaju kao u Džakarti, ni previše šoping centara, a ne osjete se ni zagađenja. Kada sam došla ovdje, mogla sam normalno disati, jer imam malo problema s astmom.

Mislim čak da sam je izliječila zbog boravka u lijepim predjelima čistog zraka. Posebno volim Mostar. Taj grad filmski je lijep. I Sarajevo je unikatan grad. Kada sam stigla, bilo je hladno. Vidjela sam ožiljke rata i shvatila da oni ljude podsjećaju na bolni rat. No, zanimljivo mi je bilo vidjeti u Predsjedništvu zemlje koja je prebrodila tako težak rat da ispred ureda predsjedavajućeg nema naoružanih službenika. Tu blizu su i ljudi, koji bi se, naprimjer, u Indoneziji smatrali opasnim za predsjednika. Kod nas je drugačije. U Indoneziji se teško dolazi i prolazi do predsjednika.

Ovdje nema pištolja, nema ograde.

Interviewed by: ELMA ZEĆO, Photo: IRFAN REDŽOVIĆ 27

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

A

I’m a versatile person

t the very entrance to the embassy of the Republic of Indonesia in Sarajevo, you begin to feel the vastness of courtesy, first and foremost, that adorns this colourful and hugely populated country of the Southeast Asia. An employee who is leaving the embassy will not pass by without asking if he can help you, while another employee will take you to the ambassador, all the while with a smile on her face.

Then there is the warm handshake of ambassador Amelia Yani, who is very impressed by BiH. How much so, shows her son’s comment that it would be best if she stayed here for the rest of her life.

Let’s meet in the field of business You are the second ambassador of Indonesia to our country. What are your plans?

-I want to familiarise the citizens of Bosnia and Herzegovina more closely with Indonesia. The country is far away, 14 hours flying time and five, six hours of time difference, it is also expensive for t Indonesians to come here as well as for BiH citizens to travel there.

Both countries offer wonderful things. Indonesia offers a lot of sun, sea and beach. I will try to explain its essence. When some time ago a diplomatic reception was organised on the occasion of our National Day, two beautiful dancers from Central Java did a performance with music. Perhaps it sounded strange to Bosnians and Herzegovinians, but that is Indonesia, that’s its culture, that’s us - 255 million people from 1.900.000 kilometers from east to west by the coast line. There are Indonesians living in Bosnia and Herzegovina too. There are even twenty women from Indonesia who have husbands from BiH. With the children, there are now 50 of them.

Children have dual citizenship, and 28

How long have you been in diplomacy?

when they are 18, they will be able to choose what they want to be.

They are beautiful, they look like they will one day become models or movie stars (laughter).

At this year’s Sarajevo Business Forum Indonesia was among the countries in focus. In your opinion, in which directions can business cooperation between our two countries go?

– Trade, export and import can be significantly improved. Indonesia has rubber, coffee, tea, teak wood, bamboo, tropical fruit such as papaya, pineapple, mango, longan, lychee, rambutan, jackfruit, all kinds of bananas, durian and many other canned fruits. We are also manufacturing textiles, woven fabrics, batik and silk, as well as palm and coconut oil. On the other hand, BiH has its own wood products, especially pine, walnut and oak. In addition,

there is sunflower oil and olive oil, followed by milk, meat products, leather, cheese, flour and the arms industry. State-owned company Pindad bought 11 million projectiles and as many primer cases from a company called Igman from Konjic.

I hope the cooperation will continue.

Indonesia is a big country and a big market for BiH. It is therefore good that business people from both countries meet in the field of business.

What does BiH offer that can be interesting to Indonesia, and vice versa?

– Both countries are equally wonderful to visit. While one is on the equator with white sand, pink beach, volcanoes, sea, numerous fish, crabs, lobsters and a multitude of coconut palms, the other has a rich culture, beautiful landscapes, emerald green water, beautiful Mostar, Blagaj, Jajce and much more.

What would be your favorite tourist destination?

– As my father is from Central Java, and my mum from Bali, I always point them out. That’s part of my identity. Indonesians are generally nice and friendly people. But, in Java they are more than that –unmistakably nice and kind. They always talk gently. Many people are surprised by that.

– Diplomacy is not really my path.

My career involves working with the United Nations, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and UNDP in Jakarta. Then my life changed. My father, Ahmad Yani, was killed. He was a general in the army and even today he is respected as a hero of the Revolution. I was sad, angry. I retired to a small place and spent 20 years there. In essence, I’m a versatile person. I can be a farmer or a diplomat, I can be anything.

And I became the ambassador at

the proposal of general Wiranto, who is the Minister Coordinator for Politics and Security of the current government. The President agreed.

So BiH is the first country in which I hold the post as ambassador. Flicking through the book that I wrote about my father, his picture with President Tito reminded me that he had come here too. Former Yugoslavia and Indonesia worked closely together in the 1960s in the field of ammunition and weapons and in the Non-Aligned Movement.

What would you recommend that tourists see in Indonesia?

– Everybody wants to go to Bali, but I would suggest that it should

be the last destination. First of all, people should come to Jakarta, to see its Old Town where the Dutch influence is felt. It is best to do so in the evening, because it’s very hot. It is worthwhile then to go to Central Java where you will see the famous Buddhist temple of Borobudur, as well as all the other beautiful Buddhist and Hindu temples, the performances that take place there.

Alongside Bali, Sumatra is also an interesting island. The eastern part of Indonesia can also be visited, but it is far away. It is hard to go to Indonesia and see everything because it is huge and it takes a lot of money for everything. It all depends on what people like, but everybody can move in the direction of their interests. In addition to attractive destinations, Indonesia is a country with 150 volcanoes and the largest flower in the world, called Rafflesia Arnoldi.

What are your impressions of BiH? – Places I have seen are magical, beautiful, there are no traffic jams like in Jakarta, or too many shopping malls, and also the pollution is not felt. When I came here, I could breathe normally because I have some asthma problems. I even think that I cured it because of staying in beautiful areas of clean air. I especially like Mostar. That city has a movie-like beauty. And Sarajevo is a unique city. When I arrived, it was cold. I saw the scars of war and realised that they reminded people of a painful war. But it was interesting for me to see that in the Presidency of the country that has overcome such a tough war there are no armed officers in front of the Office of the Chairman. There are people close by too, who would, for example, in Indonesia, be considered dangerous to the president. It’s different with us. In Indonesia it is hard to get to and get a pass to the president. There are no guns here, no fences.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

INDONEZIJA Zemlja dramatičnih pejzaža DALEKA I EGZOTIČNA INDONEZIJA, ARHIPELAG NA GRANICI INDIJSKOG I TIHOG OKEANA U JUGOISTOČNOJ AZIJI, ČIJI OBLIK U JUŽNOM DIJELU PODSJEĆA NA UZANIM PERLAMA NANIZANU OGRLICU, JEDNA JE OD TURISTIČKI NAJPOSJEĆENIJIH DRŽAVA SVIJETA Piše: IVANA DUKČEVIĆ

30

Z

vanično, zemlju čini čak 17.508 manjih i većih otoka, od kojih su mnogi nenaseljeni. Najveći otoci indonezijskog arhipelaga su Sumatra, Java, na kojoj se nalazi prijestolnica Džakarta, Bali, Celebes, ili Sulavesi, dio otoka Bornea i zapadni dio Nove Gvineje.

nalik Glavi šećera u Rio de Janeiru.

Prije mnogo godina oblikovali su ih vulkani. Vode oko ovih otoka prepune su korala i vrve od tropskih ribica.

Drugu najpoznatiju prirodnu atrakciju čini veliko jezero Toba (Danau Toba), najveće vulkansko jezero na svijetu, dužine oko 100 i širine 30 kilometara.

Nalazi se na otoku Sumatra i predstavlja kalderu jednog od nekoliko planetarnih super-vulkana. Nastalo je kao posljedica erupcije koja se desila prije oko 70.000 godina.

ZEMLJA 150 VULKANA Osim po predivnoj prirodi koja obiluje zelenim planinskim pejzažom i terasastim brdima sa zasadima pirinčanih polja, Indonezija je najpoznatija po tropskim plažama kao s razglednice – prekrivenim sitnim, bijelim pijeskom i zasadima palmi, koje se prostiru duž stotina kilometara obala Indijskog i Tihog okeana.

Najpoznatiji turistički rizorti nalaze se na obalama Balija, otoka koji već dugi niz godina važi za jednu od najpoznatijih destinacija za klasičan odmor na svijetu.

Osim opće poznatih, u vezi s Indonezijom postoje i neke zanimljive, ali manje poznate činjenice. Indonezija je jedna od najgušće naseljenih država svijeta. Kada je u pitanju broj stanovnika po kvadratnom kilometru, nalazi se na šestom mjestu. Otočje se nalazi na liniji razdvajanja dvije velike tektonske ploče – evroazijske i indoaustralijske, te je podložno čestim i veoma razornim zemljotresima. I to nije sve. Duž Sumatre, Jave, Balija i nekih drugih otoka, nalazi se najveći vulkanski pojas na svijetu s preko 150 planina – vulkana od kojih su mnogi još uvijek aktivni. Najveća poznata erupcija vulkana Krakatau (otok između Jave i Sumatre), dogodila se u augustu 1883. i smatra se jednom od najvećih erupcija ikada.

Ljepotu i jedinstvenost Indonezije ne čine samo njene plaže i vulkani.

Arhipelag je mjesto jedinog staništa dvije veoma poznate životinjske vrste, koje žive ovdje i nigdje više na svijetu.

U pitanju su veliki riđi majmun – orangutan (lukavi kralj u priči Knjiga o džungli), čije primjerke možete posmatrati u šumama Nacionalnog parka Tandžung Puting, kao i komodo zmaj – najveći gušter (gmizavac)

KULTURNA I TRADICIONALNA BAŠTINA Zaljubljenici u kulturu i historiju tokom posjete Indoneziji ne bi trebali propustiti Yogjakartu. Sam grad centar je kulture u širem smislu, poznat po batiku – tehnici bojenja svile koja s ovog mjesta i potječe, indonezijskom teatru sijenki (wayang kulit), tradicionalnoj muzici i baletu.

Nadomak grada nalazi se hinduistički kompleks Prambanan, jedno od najznačajnijih arheoloških nalazišta u zemlji, koje je na listi UNESCO-ve kulturne baštine. Kompleks čine mnogobrojni hramovi nastali u devetom vijeku, a posvećeni su bogovima Šivi, Višnuu, Brami i drugim. Osim ovog, na Javi se nalazi i Borobudur, veliki budistički hram iz devetog vijeka, koji je također dio baštine UNESCO-a.

na svijetu, endemska vrsta indonezijskog otoka Komodo. Osim što njega možete vidjeti, u Nacionalnom parku Komodo možete i roniti u nekim od voda koje su najbogatije na planeti biljnim i životinjskim vrstama.

Kada je riječ o prirodnim atrakcijama Indonezije, na najvišem mjestu nalazi se Radža Ampart, grupa otoka u obliku zelenih brda koja izranjaju iz vode,

Na kraju, možda najinteresantniju turističku atrakciju Indonezije predstavlja Toradža sahrana, sastavljena iz niza običaja, nekih prilično brutalnih, koji se još uvijek njeguju na jugu otoka Sulavesi. Nalik festivalu, sahrana obuhvata borbu bivola, klanicu istih, tradicionalni ples u lokalnim kostimima i veliku gozbu koja traje 11 dana, prije nego što se pokojnik sahrani. Sve ovo se dešava u okrilju nevelikih sela s predivnim kućama podignutih u nizu, često sojenica, te sagrađenih od trske i drveta, s velikim, podvijenim krovom – biserom lokalne arhitekture.

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specimens can be observed in the forests of the Tanjung Puting National Park, as well as the Komodo dragon - the largest lizard (reptilian) in the world, the endemic species of the Indonesian island of Komodo.

Apart from seeing him, you can dive in the Komodo National Park in some of the waters that are the richest on the planet with plant and animal species.

INDONESIA A Land of Dramatic Landscapes FAR AWAY AND EXOTIC INDONESIA, THE ARCHIPELAGO ON THE BORDER OF THE INDIAN AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN IN SOUTHEAST ASIA, WHOSE SHAPE IN THE SOUTHERN PART IS REMINISCENT OF THE PEARL BEADED NECKLACE, IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR TOURIST COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD Written by: IVANA DUKČEVIĆ

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fficially, the country is made of 17,508 smaller and larger islands, many of which are uninhabited. The largest islands of the Indonesian archipelago are Sumatra, Java, which houses the capital of Jakarta, Bali, Celebes, or Sulavesi, part of the island of Borneo and the western part of New Guinea.

A LAND OF 150 VOLCANOES Apart from the beautiful nature abounding in green mountain scenery and terraced hills with the fields of planted rice, Indonesia is best known for its picture perfect tropical beaches - covered with tiny grains of white sand and palm plantations, stretching along the hundreds of 32

miles of the Indian and Pacific Ocean coasts. The most famous tourist resorts are located on the banks of Bali, an island that for many years has been one of the most famous destinations in the world for a classic holiday. In addition to the generally known facts about Indonesia, there are some interesting, but less well known ones. Indonesia is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. When it comes to the number of inhabitants per square kilometer, it is in the sixth place. The island is on the line of separation of two large tectonic plates - Eurasian and Indo-Australian, and subject to frequent and very devastating earthquakes. And that’s not all. Along Sumatra, Java, Bali and some other

islands, there is the largest volcanic belt in the world with over 150 mountains - volcanoes, many of which are still active. The largest known eruption of the volcano Krakatau (island between Java and Sumatra) occurred in August 1883 and is considered to be one of the largest eruptions ever. The beauty and uniqueness of Indonesia consists not only of its beaches and volcanoes.

The archipelago is the site of the only habitat of two very famous animal species, living here and nowhere else in the world. They are the big red ape - orangutan (a cunning king in The Jungle Book story), whose

When it comes to the natural attractions of Indonesia, at the top spot is Raja Ampart, a group of islands in the form of green hills that emerge from the water, like the Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro. Many years ago they were shaped by volcanoes. The waters around these islands are full of coral and tropical fish.The second most famous natural attraction is lake Toba (Danau Toba), the largest volcanic lake in the world, about 100 kilometers long and 30 kilometers wide. It is situated on Sumatra Island and represents the caldera of one of several planetary super-volcanoes.

It was the result of an eruption that occurred about 70,000 years ago.

CULTURAL AND TRADITIONAL HERITAGE Culture and history lovers should not miss Yogjakarta during Indonesia’s visit. The city itself is a center of culture in the broader sense, known for its batik - the technique of dyeing silk that originates from this place, the Indonesian theatre of shadows

(wayang kulit), the traditional music and ballet.On the outskirts of the town is the Hindu complex of Prambanan, one of the most important archaeological sites in the country, included on the UNESCO list of cultural heritage sites. The complex consists of numerous temples built in the ninth century, and are dedicated to the gods Shiva, Vishnu, Brama and others. In addition to this, in Java there is Borobudur, a great Buddhist temple from the ninth century, also part of UNESCO’s heritage.

Finally, perhaps the most interesting tourist attraction in Indonesia is the Toraja funeral, composed of a series of customs, some pretty brutal, still nurtured in the south of the island of Sulavesi. Much like a festival, the funeral includes the battle of the buffalos, the butchery of the same, a traditional dance in local costumes and a great feast that lasts 11 days before the deceased is buried. All of this is happening in the shelter of rather small villages with beautiful houses set up in a row, often pile dwellings, made of cane and wood, with a large, paved roof - a pearl of local architecture.

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JAKARTA

DŽAKARTA

Najljepše lice Indonezije

DINAMIČNA, BUČNA I MODERNA Svjetski putnici na čijim se mapama obavezno našla Indonezija, kažu da je njena prijestolnica grad nevjerovatnog duha i izuzetno srdačnih, otvorenih i pristupačnih ljudi, što već možete osjetiti prilikom slijetanja na internacionalni aerodrom Soekarno-Hatta, nazvan po prvom predsjedniku i prvom potpredsjedniku Indonezije, koji su se zvali Soekarno i Mohammad Hatta.

Džakarta, osnovana početkom 16. vijeka, krasi sjeverozapadni dio otoka Java na ušću rijeke Ciliwung. Dinamična, bučna, moderna, multikulturnog šarma, predstavlja jedan od najvećih megapolisa u svijetu, gdje se nalaze najbolji muzeji države, izvanredni ugostiteljski objekti i ogromni trgovački centri. Šaroliki kulturni

mozaik, koji se očituje kroz zanimljive i inspirativne običaje, vidljiv je svuda u najposjećenijoj metropoli azijatske regije. Ujedno je Džakarta najveći privredni i industrijski centar Indonezije. Gusto je naseljena, čak u unutrašnjem dijelu grada ima oko 10 miliona stanovnika. Kada dođete ovdje, budite spremni na strpljivost u saobraćaju, jer se prema centru obično svakodnevno kreće lavina auta, motora i trotočkaša nazvanih bajaj, koji prelaze preko višespratnih magistralnih mostova. Ali hektična Džakarta nudi također divna mjesta za odmor od gradske vreve i buke, lijepe parkove, poput botaničkog vrta u Bogoru, te je ujedno grad, priča se, na čijim ulicama ramenom možete okrznuti nekog budućeg lidera, mislioca, muzičara, umjetnika...

Kroz historijski razvoj, Džakarta se spominje i kao Sunda Kalepa, što je

Atrakcije Džakarte su brojne. Stari grad, Trg Merdeka, zamak iz 18. vijeka, Nacionalni spomenik, Toko Merah, jedna od najstarijih građevina grada, a veliku kulturnu atrakciju predstavlja i u centru locirani muzej Sejarah Jakarta, gdje se dojmiljivo elaborira prošlost Džakarte. Ljubitelji hinduističkih umjetničkih dijela u svakom slučaju bi trebali posjetiti Nacionalni muzej, gdje se može vidjeti, između ostalog, porcelan dinastije Ming.

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The Most Beautiful Face of Indonesia

bio njen prvobitni naziv, dok se pod oficijelnim vodi još od 1527. Holanđani je osvajaju 1619., dok je Japanska vojska dominirala gradom između 1942. i 1945. godine. No, nakon završetka Drugog svjetskog rata Indonezija proglašava nezavisnost i Džakartu svojim glavnim gradom po povlačenju holandske vojske 1949.

Istiklal džamija U Sarajevu i Džakarti nalaze se dvije džamije istog naziva – Istiklal, što znači nezavisnost.

U bh. prijestolnici lijepa bogomolja napravljena je u znak prijateljstva između ove dvije države.

DYNAMIC, LOUD AND MODERN CITY World travelers whose maps without fail included Indonesia, say that its capital is a city of incredible spirit and of extremely cordial, open and accessible people, which you can feel as soon as you land at the international airport Soekarno-Hatta, named after the first president and first vice president of Indonesia, who were called Soekarno and Mohammad Hatta.

Jakarta, founded at the beginning of the 16th century, adorns the northwestern part of Java Island at the mouth of the Ciliwung river. Dynamic, loud, modern, with multicultural charm, it is one of the largest megacities in the world, featuring state-of-the-art

museums, outstanding hospitality facilities, and vast shopping malls.

A colourful cultural mosaic, which manifests itself through interesting and inspirational customs, is visible everywhere in the most visited metropolis of the Asian region.

Jakarta is also Indonesia’s largest economic and industrial centre. It is densely populated, and its inner part of the city even counts some 10 million inhabitants. When you come here, be prepared for the patience in traffic, because usually there is an avalanche of cars, bikes and three-wheelers called bajaj moving towards the centre on daily basis, crossing over the multistory highway bridges. But the hectic Jakarta also offers great places to relax from the city’s hustle and bustle, beautiful parks, such as the botanical garden in Bogor, and it is also a city, so the

Istiklal mosque In Sarajevo and Jakarta there are two mosques of the same name - Istiklal, meaning independence. In the BH capital, the beautiful place of worship was made in the name of friendship between those two countries.

story goes, on whose streets you can graze shoulders of a future leader, thinker, musician, artist ...Through its historical development, Jakarta is also mentioned as Sunda Kelapa, which was its original name, and it has been an official name since year 1527. The Dutch conquered it in 1619, while the Japanese army dominated the city between 1942 and 1945. However, after the Second World War, Indonesia proclaimed independence and Jakarta as its capital after the retreat of the Dutch army in 1949.

The attractions of Jakarta are numerous. The old town, Merdeka Square, the 18th century chateau, the National Monument, Toko Merah, one of the oldest buildings of the city, and a great cultural attraction is its centrally located Sejarah Jakarta Museum, where the past of Jakarta is impressively elaborated. Lovers of Hindu artwork should visit the National Museum in any case, where, among other things, the porcelain of Ming dynasty can be viewed.

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Bali

Otok ravnoteže, hramova i

osmijeha PREKRASNE PJEŠČANE PLAŽE PRVA SU ASOCIJACIJA KADA SE POMENE NJEGOVO IME, NO ON JE MNOGO VIŠE OD TOGA. KAKO KAŽU, JEDAN OTOK, MNOGO PRIČA

I

ako je samo jedan među više od 17.000 otoka koji pripadaju indonezijskom arhipelagu, svi su čuli za Bali, jednu od top turističkih destinacija u svijetu, koju godišnje posjeti oko četiri miliona turista.

Smješten je između otoka Jave i Lomboka, blizu Ekvatora, na prijelazu iz Indijskog u Tihi okean, a svjetsku slavu dobija s filmskom ekranizacijom istoimene knjige Jedi, moli, voli spisateljice Elizabeth Gilbert.

Duhovno prostranstvo Bali nastanjuje oko četiri miliona ljudi. Prvi hindusi stigli su ovdje 100 36

godina prije nove ere. Jedinstvena kultura potječe većim dijelom iz susjedne Jave s određenim utjecajima iz daleke prošlosti otoka. Mjesto je ovo hinduizma i hinduističke kulture, te je svaki aspekat tamošnjeg života prožet religijom. Ipak, hinduizam na Baliju drugačiji je u odnosu na ono što možete vidjeti u Indiji.

Glavno božantvo je Sanghyang Widi Wasa, bog koji obuhvata sve. Ne prikazuje se direktno i za njega su drugi bogovi kao što su Višnu i Šiva samo manifestacije.

U selu Besakih nalazi se Pura Besakih – najvažniji, najveći i najsvetiji hinduistički hram na Baliju. Hram

predstavlja kompleks od 23 odvojena, ali povezana hrama s najvećim i najvažnijim – Pura Penataran Agung.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, ili Pura Bratan, veliki je vodeni hram na Baliju. Vodeni hramovi su važni za cijelu regiju, a nizvodno se nalaze i mnogi manji ovakvog tipa.

Hram Uluwatu, sagrađen na rubu 70 metara visoke litice, još je jedan poznati hram među brojnim postojećim na Baliju. Riječ je o takozvanom morskom hramu posvećenom bogu Sanghyang Widhi Wasa.

Skrovište prirodnog blaga

Osim toga, Bali ima i svoje impresivne vodopade, poput Gitgit i Nungnung vodopada.

Riječ raj na Baliju često se koristi.

I ne bez razloga. Spoj ljubaznosti domicilnog stanovništva, magične kulture, duhovnosti koja plijeni um, spektakularnih plaža, izvrsnih mogućnosti za surfanje i ronjenje, učinili su da 80% internacionalnih posjetilaca Indonezije posjeti Bali.

Na Baliju je svaka plaža zasebna destinacija, tako da svaki turista može pronaći jednu u koju će se definitivno zaljubiti. Uz kristalno čisto more postoje palmine i crne pjeskovite plaže, akvamarin lagune, plaže na skrivenim obalama, plaže za surfere gdje stižu surferi iz cijelog svijeta kako bi okušali svoje sposobnosti. Među poznatim plažama su Nusa Dua, Kuta, Sanur, Balangan, Geger, Bias Tugal...

Pravo skrovište blaga oličenog u prirodnim ljepotama, pored plaža, Bali ima i brojne druge atrakcije.

Gunung Agung je njegova najveća planina, a ujedno je i aktivni vulkan.

Njen vrh vidi se skoro s cijelog juga i istoka otoka. Gunung Batukaru je druga po veličini balinežanska planina. Okružena je nizom lijepih prirodnih krajolika poput Jatiluwih rižinih terasa i gustih prašuma.

Šoping avantura Umjetnost Balija svoje korjenove nalazi u hinduizmu i na Javi. Izrasla je iz dijela zanatlija Majapahit kraljevstva s njihovim dolaskom u 14. vijeku. Selo Kamasan, Klungkung (istočni Bali) bilo je centar klasične balinežanske umjetnosti između 16. i 20. vijeka, u kojem dolazi do razvoja novih oblika umjetnosti. Od kasnog 20. vijeka za Ubud i susjedna sela veže se reputacija centara balinežanske umjetnosti.

Na Baliju je i lokalno stanovništvo iznimno kreativno. Na umjetničkim tržnicama možete vidjeti mnoštvo umjetnina i ručnih radova koje su dizajnirale lokalne zanatlije, te doživjeti posebnu šoping avanturu.

Najposjećenija je Ubud umjetnička tržnica. Otvorena je tokom cijele godine, izuzev kada se slavi nova godina Saka, jer tada život na cijelom otoku doslovno zastane na jedan dan.

Vrtovi na Baliju izvrsno su mjesto za prekookeanske posjetioce nudeći im mogućnost da istraže tradicionalnu upotrebu tamošnjih tropskih biljaka. Takav je Botanički vrt Balija.

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Bali

Island of Equilibrium, Temples and Smiles

BEAUTIFUL SANDY BEACHES ARE WHAT IT IS ASSOCIATED WITH AT FIRST WHEN ITS NAME IS MENTIONED, BUT IT IS FAR MORE THAN THAT. AS THEY SAY, ONE ISLAND, MANY STORIES

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lthough it is only one among more than 17,000 islands belonging to the Indonesian archipelago, everybody has heard of Bali, one of the top tourist destinations in the world, visited by about four million tourists a year. It is located between islands of Java and Lomboka, near the equator, at the transition from Indian to the Pacific Ocean, and it has got its world glory with the film adaptation of the book of the same name, Eat, Pray, Love by the author Elizabeth Gilbert.

SPIRITUAL EXPANSE Bali inhabits about four million people. The first Hindus came here 100 years before the new era. The unique culture comes mostly from the neighbouring Java, with certain influences from the distant past of the island. This is a place of Hinduism and Hindu culture, and every aspect of life there is permeated with religion. However, Hinduism in Bali is different from what you can see in India. The main deity is Sanghyang Widi Wasa, the god that encompasses everything. It is not shown directly and to him other gods like Vishnu 38

and Shiva are only manifestations.

In the village of Besakih lies Pura Besakih - the most important, largest and holiest Hindu temple in Bali.

The temple represents a complex of 23 separate, but connected temples with the largest and most important - Pura Penataran Agung. Pura Ulun Danu Beratan or Pura Bratan is a great water temple in Bali. Water temples are important for the whole region, and downstream there are many smaller ones of such type. The Balinese temple of Uluwatu, built at the edge of a 70-meter high cliff, is another famous temple among many existing ones. It is a so-called sea temple devoted to the god Sanghyang Widhi Wasa.

THE HIDING PLACE OF NATURAL TREASURES The word paradise is often used in Bali. And not for no reason. The combination of courtesy of the domicile population, magical culture, mind-boggling spirituality, spectacular beaches, excellent surfing and diving opportunities, have made 80% of Indonesia’s international visitors visit Bali. Every beach in Bali is a sepa-

rate destination, so every tourist can find one that they will definitely fall in love with. Along crystal clear sea there are palm and black sandy beaches, aquamarine lagoons, beaches on the hidden shores, surf beaches where surfers come from all over the world to test their skills. Among the famous beaches are Nusa Dua, Kuta, Sanur, Balangan, Geger, Bias Tugal The true hideaway of the treasure depicted in natural beauties, apart from the beaches, Bali has many other attractions. Gunung Agung is its largest mountain and it is also an active volcano. Its peak is seen almost from the whole south and east side of the island. Gunung Batukaru is the second largest Balinese mountain. It is surrounded by a series of beautiful natural landscapes like Jatiluwih rice terraces and dense forests. Gardens in Bali are an excellent place for overseas visitors, offering them the opportunity to explore the traditional use of tropical plants here. Such is Bali’s Botanical Garden. In addition, Bali has its impressive waterfalls, such as Gitgit and Nungnung waterfalls.

Svila i tradicija CIJENJENO MJESTO ZAUZIMA SVILA U DOMENU TRADICIONALNIH RUKOTVORINA, POSEBNO KOD BATIK ODJEĆE I TEKSTILA

Silk AND

TRADITION SILK TAKES A VALUED PLACE IN THE DOMAIN OF TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFTS, ESPECIALLY IN BATIK CLOTHES AND TEXTILES Silk is one of the most prestigious materials in Indonesia. It is used as a base fabric, or as a basic fiber for Indonesian traditional clothing such as batik, tenun, grinsing and songket.

SHOPPING ADVENTURE The art of Bali is rooted in Hinduism and Java. It was developed from the part of the Majapahit Kingdom’s craftsmen with their arrival in the 14th century. Kamasan village, Klungkung (eastern Bali) was the centre of the classical Balinese art between the 16th and 20th centuries, where new forms of art evolved. Since the late 20th century, Ubud and neighboring villages have had the reputation of Balinese art centres.

Svila je jedan od najprestižnijih materijala u Indoneziji. Koristi se kao osnovna tkanina, ili kao osnovna vlakna za indonezijsku tradicionalnu odjeću kao što su batik, tenun, grinsing i songket.

na veći nivo razvijenosti, tako da se industrija stalno razvijala do danas. Indonezijske glavne regije za proizvodnju su Južni Sulawesi, Yogyakarta, Istočni Timor, a mala proizvodnja postoji i na Baliju.

In Bali, local people are also extremely creative. At art markets you can see a wealth of artwork and handicrafts designed by local craftsmen, and experience a special shopping adventure. The most visited is the Ubud art market. It is open throughout the year, except when new year Saka is celebrated, when life on the whole island literally stops for a day.

Zbog njenog svojstva udobnosti, komplikovanosti prilikom kreiranja, dodavanja indonezijskih tradicionalnih motiva i dizajna, visoko kvalitetni komadi odjeće mogu nastajati mjesecima i imati veliku vrijednost. Svila je najprije stigla na Javu, otprilike 1720. godine. S vremenom su tradicionalne metode proizvodnje bile izdignute

Kako bi se proizveo komad batik svile veličine 2,25 metara, potrebno je raditi od dva do šest mjeseci, ovisno o tome koliko je obrazac zahtjevan, dok njena cijena može iznositi od 300 do 1000 KM.

Because of its properties of comfort, complexity in creating, adding Indonesian traditional motifs and designs, high quality pieces of clothing can be born for months and have a great value. Silk first came to Java, app. in year 1720. Over time, traditional methods of production have risen to a higher level of development, so the industry has been constantly evolving to date.

The Indonesian main production regions are South Sulawesi, Yogyakarta, East Timor, with a small production also in Bali.

In order to produce a 2.25-metre piece of silk batik, it is necessary to work from two to six months, depending on how demanding the pattern is, while its price may range from 300 to 1000 KM.

U proizvodnji svile obično zanatlije koriste također niti ananasovog lišća, vlakna banane i slično.

In the production of silk, craftsmen usually also use pineapple leaves, banana fibers and the like.

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KOMODO Jurski park Indonezije

KOMODO Jurassic Park of Indonesia

DRAGONS DO NOT ONLY EXIST IN STORIES BUT ALSO IN REALITY. IF YOU WANT TO SEE THEM, YOU MUST VISIT KOMODO ISLAND IN INDONESIA, WHERE HABITAT OF KOMODO DRAGON IS, OR OF VARAN, THE LAST LIZARD OF THIS SPECIES IN THE WORLD

ZMAJEVI NE POSTOJE SAMO U PRIČAMA, NEGO I U STVARNOSTI. AKO IH ŽELITE VIDJETI, MORATE POSJETITI OTOK KOMODO U INDONEZIJI, GDJE JE STANIŠTE KOMODO ZMAJA, ILI VARANA, POSLJEDNJEG GUŠTERA OVE VRSTE NA SVIJETU Komodo spada u Male sundske otoke, grupu otoka malajskog arhipelaga, s površinom od 390 kilometara kvadratnih.

Naseljava ga otprilike 2.000 stanovnika, koji žive u jedinom selu otoka nazvanom Kampung Komodo. Već za šumare i turističke vodiče u zalivu Loh Liang napravljena su prenoćišta.

vode porijeklo s ovog otoka. Varani Komoda najveća su otočna turistička atrakcija. No, oni ne žive samo ovdje, nego su rasprostranjeni i na nekim drugim sundskim otocima.

Ugrožena su vrsta, a Nacionalni park Komodo osnovan je 1980. upravo kako bi ih se bolje štitilo.

Kasnije će njegova zaštita obuhvatiti također svu bogatu floru, faunu, te pomorsko područje.

NAJVEĆI GUŠTER NA SVIJETU

PINK PLAŽA

Komodo pripada provinciji Ost-Nusa Tenggara i također je dio Nacionalnog parka Komodo. Poznat je postao po staništu Komodo zmaja, ili varana, najvećeg živućeg guštera, koji se smatra posljednjim preostalim na svijetu u domenu njihove vrste. Zbog svoje veličine – može narasti do tri metra te imati težinu i do 150 kilograma – vodi se kao alfa predator. Postoje mišljenja da je čak moguće da srednjovjekovne priče o zmajevima

Koliko je sve ovdje posebno, može se shvatiti ronjenjem, koje je na Komodu veoma popularno. U ovoj jedinstvenoj prilici vidjet ćete veliki broj riba, među njima plave ribe gdje god da se okrenete, divit ćete se potom netaknutim grebenima koralja i bez treptanja posmatrati akcije lova velikih riba. Na Komodu se nalazi i jedna od sedam pink plaža na svijetu.

Pantai Merah, kako je u Indoneziji zovu, ubraja se u nadrealna obilježja Komodo otoka. Svoju upečatljivu boju dobija zahvaljujući mikrskop-

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skim životinjama koje se zovu foraminifera. One proizvode crveni pigment na koraljnim grebenima.

Lokalno stanovništvo je zbog toga naziva Crvenom plažom, međutim, kada se sićušni dijelovi crvenih koralja pomiješaju s bijelim pijeskom, onda nastaje nježna pink boja vidljiva duž obale.

Komodu se može prići samo s mora, a najbolje vrijeme za posjetu je između marta i juna, te oktobra i decembra.

Komodo is part of the Lesser Sunda chain of islands, a group of islands of the Malay Archipelago, with an area of 390 square kilometers. It is inhabited by approximately 2,000 inhabitants, living in the only village of the island called Kampung Komodo.

There are lodgings built for the foresters and tourist guides in the Loh Liang bay.

THE LARGEST LIZARD IN THE WORLD Komodo belongs to the province of Ost-Nusa Tenggara and is also part of the Komodo National Park. It has become famous for its Komodo dragon habitat, or of a varan, the largest living lizard, considered to be the last remaining in the world in the domain of their species. Due to its size - it can grow up to three meters and have a weight of up to 150 kilograms – it is considered as an alpha predator. There are opinions that it is even possible that medieval stories about dragons originate from this island. Komodo’s varans are the largest tourist attraction of the island.

But they do not live here alone, they are also widespread in some other Sunda islands. They are endangered species and the Komodo National Park was founded in 1980 specifically to protect them better. Later its protection also included all the rich flora, fauna and the maritime area.

PINK BEACH How special everything is here, can be fathomed by diving, which is very popular on Komodo. In this unique opportunity you will see a large number of fish, among them the blue fish wherever you turn, you will then admire the untouched coral reefs and observe the action of big fish hunting without blinking. In Komodo there is also one of seven pink beaches in the world. Pantai Merah, as they call it in Indonesia, is considered the surreal characteristic of Komodo island.

It gets its striking colour thanks to microscopic animals called foraminifera. They produce red pigment on coral reefs. Local people call it thus the Red Beach, but, when tiny parts of red corals blend with white sand, then a gentle pink colour is created that is visible along the coast.

Komodo can only be accessed from the sea, and the best time to visit is between March and June, and October and December.

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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

RITAM INDONEZIJE

Bali, on percussion instruments.

The masked dance in Indonesia is considered to be older than Hindu-Buddhist influences. Local tribes still perform it, representing the nature or ghosts of ancestors.

With the arrival of Hinduism on the archipelago, epics Ramayana and Mahabharata become part of masked dances. Still, the most popular story of topeng dance is a nine centuries old romance, between Prince Panji and Princess Candra Kirana.

THE DANCE OF MONKEYS, MUSICAL DRAMA Fascinating and exotic dance shows portions of the ancient Indian-Hindu epic Ramayana. The heroes of the story are Rama and his beautiful woman Sita, who was abducted by the lusty demon Ravana. With the aid of the general of Hanuman monkeys and his monkey fighters, Sita is being saved.

PRETPOSTAVLJA SE DA U INDONEZIJI POSTOJI VIŠE OD 3.000 ORIGINALNIH PLESOVA, KOJI SU ODRAZ ETNIČKE I KULTURNE RAZNOLIKOSTI ZEMLJE. UČENJE O STARIM PLESNIM TRADICIJAMA KAO I DRAMAMA ČUVA SE, IZMEĐU OSTALOG, U PLESNIM ŠKOLAMA I UMJETNIČKIM AKADEMIJAMA

TOPENG, PLES KOJI PRIZIVA PROŠLOST Najstariji zapisi o plesu topeng, što na indonezijskom znači maska, datiraju još iz 14. vijeka. Ples je dramatičan. Kostimirani plesači nose maske interpretirajući tradicionalne pripovijesti o legendarnim kraljevima, herojima i mitovima, dok se svira gamelan, muzika koja potječe s Jave i Balija, na perkusivnim instrumentima. Smatra se da indonezijski maskirani ples datira duže od hindu-budističkih utjecaja. Domaća plemena i danas ga izvode predstav42

ljajući prirodu ili duhove predaka. Već dolaskom hinduizma na arhipelag, Ramajana epika kao i Mahabharata epika postaju dio maskiranih plesova. Ipak, najpopularnija priča za topeng ples je romansa stara devet vijekova, između princa Pandži i princeze koja se zvala Candra Kirana.

PLES MAJMUNA, MUZIČKA DRAMA Fascinantan i egzotičan ples prikazuje dijelove drevne indijsko-hinduske epike Ramajana. Junaci priče su Rama i njegova lijepa žena Sita, koju

THE RHYTHM OF

INDONESIA će oteti požudni demon Ravana. Uz pomoć generala majmuna Hanumana i njegovih boraca majmuna Sita će biti spašena. Saga je stara, no ples je relativno novija inovacija na otoku bogova – Baliju, gdje su rituali, vjerska uvjerenja i umjetnost od pamtivijeka bili usko povezani.

Ples majmuna dovodi se u vezu sa sanghjangom, svetim balinežanskim plesom, koji se zasniva na ideji da snaga ulazi u tijelo performera kada je on u transu.

IT IS ASSUMED THAT THERE ARE OVER 3,000 ORIGINAL DANCES IN INDONESIA, REFLECTING THE ETHNIC AND CULTURAL DIVERSITY OF THE COUNTRY. LEARNING ABOUT OLD DANCE TRADITIONS AND DRAMAS IS KEPT IN, AMONG OTHER PLACES, DANCE SCHOOLS AND ART ACADEMIES

The saga is old, but the dance is a relatively new innovation on the island of gods - Bali, where rituals, religious beliefs and art have always been closely linked.

The dance of monkeys is related to the sanghjang, the holy Balinese dance, which is based on the idea that power enters the body of performer when he is in a trance

TOPENG, A DANCE THAT INVOKES THE PAST The oldest records of topeng dance, which in Indonesian means mask, date back to the 14th century. The dance is dramatic. Costumed dancers wear masks, thus interpreting traditional tales about legendary kings, heroes and myths, while gamelan is playing, the music that comes from Java and 43

TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY

MIRISI indonezijske kuhinje RAZNOVRSNA, MAŠTOVITA I, PRIJE SVEGA, UKUSNA

Sate Ayam (indonezijski pileći roštilj) SASTOJCI: • 400 grama piletine narezane na kockice 1x2 cm; • 1 supena kašika slatkog soja sosa; • 1 supena kašika rastopljenog margarina; • 16 komada štapića od bambusa; • prženi narezani crveni luk; • ½ male kašike bijelog bibera; • ½ male kašike soli.

PRIPREMA: Pomiješajte piletinu, so i bijeli biber. Stavite piletinu na stapiće od bambusa, na svaki od njih oko 4 do 5 komada. Promiješajte dobro slatki soja sos i rasotopljeni margarin, dodajte piletinu te je potom stavite na gril. Okrenite je nekoliko puta dok ne dobije zlatnu smeđu boju.

PRIPREMA: Stavite kikiriki, čili i papriku da dobijete pastu. Potom pomiješajte sa slatkim soja sosom, crvenim lukom i sokom od limete.

Servirajte pileći sate sa sosom od kikirikija i dodajte prženi narezani crveni luk.

Nasi Kuning (žuta riža) SASTOJCI: • 500 grama jasmin ili basmati riže; • 500 ml kokosovog mlijeka; • 1 supena kašika kurkume u prahu.

Začini: • 1 list od limete; • 1 mala kašika soli; • 1 cm izgnječenog galangala; • 1 stabiljka limunske trave;

Sambal sos

• 1 supena kašika soka od limete.

SASTOJCI:

PRIPREMA: Sipajte kokosovo mlijeko u šerpu, dodajte kurkumu, list od limete, so, galangal, limunsku travu i pustite da proključa. Dodajte opranu rižu i povremeno promiješajte dok riža ne upije svu tekućinu. Dodajte još i sok od limete. Stavite poklopac tek kada smanjite vatru. Povremeno miješajte dok riža ne bude dobro skuhana.

• 100 grama kikirikija; • 1 supena kašika malog crvenog čilija; • 1 ½ narezana paprika; • 50 ml slatkog soja sosa; • 3 male kašike narezanog crvenog luka; • 1 supena kašika soka od limete.

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SCENTS OF indonesian cuisine VARIED, IMAGINATIVE AND, ABOVE ALL, DELICIOUS.

Sate Ayam (Chicken Satay) INGREDIENTS: • 400 g chicken meat, 1x2 cm cubed; • 1 tbs dark sweet soya sauce; • 1 tbs melted margarine; • 16 satay skewers; • fried sliced shallots; • ½ tsp white pepper; • ½ tsp salt.

PREPARATION: Mix the chicken meat with salt and pepper. Stick 4-5 chicken cubes onto each bamboo skewer. Mix well the dark sweet soya sauce and the melted margarine. Dip the satay thoroughly into the mixture and place in the charcoal grill. Turn over several times until the satay is thoroughly cooked and is golden brown.

Sambal Sauce: INGREDIENTS: • 100 g peanuts; • 1 tbs sliced red chilies; • 1 ½ sliced capsicum; • 50 ml dark sweet soya sauce; • 3 tsp sliced shallots; • 1 tbs lime juice.

PREPARATION: Blend peanuts, chilies and capsicums into a paste. Mix with the dark sweet soya sauce, shallots and lime juice.

Serve the satay with the peanut sambal and sprinkle with fried sliced shallots.

Nasi Kuning (Yellow Rice) INGREDIENTS: • 500 g jasmine or basmati rice; • 500 ml coconut milk; • 1 tbs turmeric powder.

• Spices: • 1 kaffir lime leaf; • 1 tsp salt; • 1 cm crushed galangal; • 1 stalk lemon grass; • 1 tsp lime juice.

PREPARATION: Put coconut milk in a pan, add turmeric, lime leafe, salt, galangal, lemon grass and bring to boil. Add the washed rice and stir occasionally until the rice absorbs almost all the liquid. Add the lime juice.

Do not put the cover lid. Reduce the heat and cover the pan with the cover lid and stir occasionally until the rice is well cooked.

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

TIVAT

TIVAT

GEOGRAFSKO-KLIMATSKI USLOVI I LJEPOTE PRIRODE ODAVNINA SVRSTAVAJU TIVAT U VEOMA PRIVLAČNU TURISTIČKU DESTINACIJU

THE GEOGRAPHIC AND CLIMATIC CONDITIONS AND THE BEAUTY OF NATURE HAVE LONG SINCE MADE TIVAT A VERY ATTRACTIVE TOURIST DESTINATION

vaše ljeto 2017.

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your Summer of 2017

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

der, together with the pleasant scents that will follow you even to its islands, you get to experience what it truly means to be on holiday.

Apart from its natural beauty, what also makes Tivat unique is a number of events designed to complement each of your summer days.

Žućenica fest (The Endive Festival) One of the most important events is the international cultural and gastronomic event called Žućenica fest (a festival named after a plant called endive), which is taking place for the thirteenth time in Tivt on 17 June this year. Its particularly attractive segment is the P(i)jat od žućenice gastro show held on the banks of the Piva River. It is organised by the Tivt Women’s Association and Tivt Radio in cooperation with the municipal tourism organisation.

Apart from presenting more than 200 dishes made with endives, a valuable vegetable, it is going to include a cultural and entertainment programme with numerous performers, including Klapa Rišpet (the Rišpet Choir) from Croatia. juna. Kao posebno atraktivan segment izdvaja se gastro show P(i) jat od žućenice, koji će se održati na obali Pine. Organizatori su Organizacija žena Tivta i Radio Tivat u saradnji s općinskom turističkom organizacijom. Pored prezentacije više od 200 jela sa žućenicom, dragocjenim biljem, bit će upriličen također kulturno-zabavni program u kome će učestvovati brojni izvođači, među kojima je i Klapa Rišpet iz Hrvatske.

izvođača. Tokom tri dana, 26., 27., i 28. jula, tivatske ulice, trgovi i ponte bit će pozornica za muzičare, plesače, pozorišne ansamble i animatore, a publika će biti animirana kroz direktan i interaktivan odnos s umjetnicima. Ulični performeri znatno obogaćuju gradsku scenu i doprinose intenzivnijem doživljaju grada, pa će se stoga predstaviti na više lokacija u Tivtu.

Žućenica fest

Stižu ulični performeri iz cijelog svijeta

Jedan od najvažnijih događaja je međunarodna kulturno-gastronomska manifestacija Žućenica fest, koja će se održati ove godine po trinaesti put u Tivtu, i to 17.

Još jedan od razloga zbog kojeg ćete poželjeti biti u Tivtu je i festival uličnih performera Inart na kojem će gostovati neki od najpoznatijih regionalnih i svjetskih

Pored ovih manifestacija, Tivat je pripremio bogato kulturno-zabavno ljeto. Koncerti, predstave, izložbe suvenira, gastro večeri, plesne večeri, klapske večeri, festivali, sajam vina i tradicionalnih proizvoda, sve su to razlozi da baš Tivat bude idealna destinacija za vaše ljeto 2017.

Najmlađi gradić bokeljskog zaliva, ujedno jedini primorski grad s aerodromom, koji je dobio ime po ilirskoj kraljici Teuti, krasi rivijera sa 17 čistih i lijepo uređenih plaža.

U Tivtu, u hladu borova i maslina, lovora, ruzmarina i lavande, uz prijatne mirise koji će da vas prate i na njegovim ostrvima, odmor dobija svoje pravo značenje. Pored prirodnih ljepota, njegovoj posebnosti doprinijet će i brojni osmišljeni događaji, koji će upotpuniti vašu ljetnu svakodnevnicu.

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Pregršt zanimljivosti

The youngest town of the Boka Bay, also a coastal town with an airport, which is named after the Illyrian Queen Teuta, spans over a Riviera comprising seventeen clean and nicely arranged beaches. In Tivat, in the shade of pine and olive trees, laurel, rosemary and laven-

Street performers from all around the world Another reason for you to wish to come to Tivat is the street performers’ festival called Inart which will be hosting some of the most renowned regional and international performers. Over the course of three days, 26 through 28 July, the streets, squares and bridges of Tivat, will be the stage for musicians, dances, theatre ensembles and animators to perform on, and direct and indirect interaction with the artists will make the audience lively. Street performers will make a significant contribution to the town’s scene and intensify the impressions of the town among its visitors, and that is why street performers are going present them-

selves to the audience on several locations in Tivat.

A multitude of interesting things to do Apart from these events, Tivat has prepared many cultural and entertaining things do to in the summer.

Concerts, theatre plays, souvenir exhibitions, gastro evenings, dance evenings, choir evenings, festivals, a wine and traditional products fair are the reasons why Tivat is the ideal destination for your summer of 2017.

Tivat has prepared many cultural and entertaining things do to in the summer.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

AMER BUKVIĆ, GENERALNI DIREKTOR BBI BANKE

Strast vodi do

pobjede!

Razgovarala: ELMA ZEĆO, Foto: JASMIN ŠAKOVIĆ

BOSNA BANK INTERNATIONAL I 8. PO REDU SARAJEVO BUSINESS FORUM 22. I 23.

MAJA U SARAJEVU NASTAVLJAJU GRADITI MOST IZMEĐU NAŠEG REGIONA I DALEKE AZIJE

Z

a razliku od prošlogodišnjeg Sarajevo Business Foruma na kojem je akcenat bio stavljen na najmnogoljudniju zemlju svijeta – Kinu, ovoga puta pažnja će biti poklonjena inspirativnoj Indiji, “Zemlji vatre” – Azerbejdžanu i svestranoj Indoneziji. Zašto, objašnjava odmah na početku razgovora Amer Bukvić, generalni direktor BBI banke: “Riječ je o tržištima s kojima jugoistočna Evropa može izuzetno uspješno sarađivati, no, nažalost, uprkos ogromnim mogućnostima do sada nije bilo prilike da se preduzeća, korporacije iz oba dijela svijeta direktno povežu.”

Potencijali Balkana Cilj Sarajevo Business Foruma je podržati regionalnu poslovnu scenu, nove ideje, uspješne kompanije, pojedince. Kakvi su dosadašnji rezultati?

– Balkan, za koji se inače vežu negativne konotacije koje asociraju na podjele i sukobe, na ovom promotivnom eventu predstavljamo u njegovom pravom svjetlu ukazujući na pregršt mogućnosti koje ima u brojnim oblastima kao što su, između ostalih, turizam, poljoprivreda, proizvodnja, energetski sektor, infrastruktura. U vrijeme bivše Jugoslavije, ovo podneblje privlačilo je mlade ljude iz cijelog svijeta da dođu i upišu željeni studij, stoga smatram da ponovo može izrasti u veliko edukativno središte. To su stvari koje želimo promovisati.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

AMER BUKVIĆ, BBI BANK GENERAL MANAGER

“Ljudi poslovnog svijeta jugoistočne Evrope pravi su vitezovi, toliko je težak ambijent u kojem posluju. Zato s najvećim respektom trebamo gledati na njih.”

Victories are driven by

passion Interviewed by: ELMA ZEĆO, Photo: JASMIN ŠAKOVIĆ

Sarajevo Business Forum mjesto je susreta idejnih tvoraca različitih projekata, sponzora projekata i investitora, koje pokušavamo povezati, no mi smo aktivni tokom cijele godine na ovom polju i postižemo velike rezultate, što je proizvelo bolji investicijski fond u poljoprivredi, dolazak novih medija, otvaranje novih avio linija, povećan broj turista kao i investitora u nekretnine.

Zašto vrijedi ulagati u BiH, šta obično kažete investitorima?

– Mnogo sam proputovao i proživio, bio u nekih 65 zemalja, i mislim da nigdje ne postoji ono što se može naći u ovom regionu. Na tako malom prostoru postoje Dubrovnik, Bled, crnogorsko primorje, Mostar, Sarajevo, krasne planine, rijeke, more...

Ako bismo ga poredili s Kalifornijom, mogli bismo reći da Kalifornija ima tematske parkove i također more, ali za tri godine možete izgraditi sve tematske parkove koje ima Los Angeles, ili San Diego, ili San Francis52

co. Teško je pronaći nešto uporedivo s ovim što posjeduje naš region.

Otvoriti ulaz u zemlju! Šta bi se moglo uraditi kako bi uspješne poslovne priče postale masovnije u BiH? – Tranzicije su bolne, s tim da je našu tranziciju pratio razarajući rat uz odlazak veoma velikog broja stručnjaka. Nije lako rane sanirati, ali ako nešto brzo ne uradimo, one bi mogle postati još dublje. Ako region ne zaustavi odlazak mladih i najkvalitetnijih kadrova, doživjet će katastrofalnu sudbinu, a može, s druge strane, ispravno postupiti i iskoristiti priliku da postane jedan od važnih centara poput Singapura, Dubaija, Hong Konga. Ovdje nema srednjih rješenja, ili će biti veoma dobro, ili veoma loše. Ključno je pitanje vremena. U BiH imamo zatvoren ulaz u zemlju, a otvoren izlaz. Zbog Šengen vize, restriktivnog načina ulaska u BiH, ne dozvo-

ljavamo turizmu da doživi procvat.

Prirodno je da ljudi odlaze, ako ne dolaze novi poslovi, novi novac.

Stoga je rješenje u otvaranju ulaza u zemlju, promjeni viznog sistema, otvaranju novih avio linija, olakšavanju registrovanja firme, smanjenju poreza i troškova državnog aparata. Na ovaj način će se stvoriti uslovi za investiranje u zemlju.

Mi želimo praviti fabrike, proizvoditi, odnosno da kod nas bude jeftinije proizvoditi nego, naprimjer, u Rumuniji. Za postizanje dobrog stanja nužno je uvoditi olakšice i promovisati zemlju, posebno ako želimo od turizma napraviti ozbiljnu privrednu granu.

U 2014. godini okitili ste se titulom najboljeg poduzetnika i lidera. Koji je bio Vaš recept za uspjeh u poslu?

– Jedna riječ: strast. Samo tako možete pobijediti veoma veliku konkurenciju.

BOSNA BANK INTERNATIONAL AND THE 8TH SARAJEVO BUSINESS FORUM, WHICH TAKES PLACE FROM 22 TO 23 MAY IN SARAJEVO, CONTINUE TO BUILD BRIDGES BETWEEN THE BALKANS AND THE FAR ASIA

A

s opposed to the last year’s Sarajevo Business Forum focusing on the most populated country in the world— China—this year, the attention will be given to the inspiring India, “the land of fire”—Azerbaijan, and the multifaceted Indonesia. Amer Bukvić, BBI Bank General Manager, explains why right from the start of the interview.

“South-East Europe can establish exceptionally successful cooperation with these markets. However, despite enormous possibilities, companies and corporations from both parts of the world haven’t had a chance to connect directly thus far.”

The Balkans’ Potential The aim of the Sarajevo Business Forum is to support the regional business scene, new ideas, successful companies and individuals. What the results have been so far?

– The Balkans is generally negatively perceived and evokes divisions and conflicts. At this event, however, we’ll present the Balkans as it really is and point out the numerous possibilities it offers in different areas such as tourism, agriculture, production, the energy and infrastructure sector. During ex-Yugoslav era, young people from all 53

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

over the world were attracted to come to this region to study whatever they wanted, so I believe that it can grow into a great centre of education. That’s what we want to promote. Sarajevo Business Forum is the meeting point of idea makers behind various projects, project sponsors and investors that we’re trying to connect, but we’re active through the year in this field and we’re very successful; it resulted in greater investments in the field of agriculture and brought in some new media companies; it also resulted in the opening of new airlines, an increased number of tourists and a larger number of property investments.

MB

E

Y

E

OF CHA UN

ION

our position, we need to introduce benefits and promote our country, especially if we want tourism to be a serious industry.

E

heal the wounds, and if we don’t do something quickly, they could become even deeper. If the region doesn’t stop young people and the most qualified professionals from leaving, we’ll be doomed; on the other hand, the region has the option to do the right thing and use this opportunity to become one of the important centres such as Singapore, Dubai or Hong Kong.

There’s no middle way here: it will either be very good or very bad.

Timing is crucial. It’s difficult to get into the country, but it’s easy to leave Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Because of the Schengen visa regime, the restricted access to BiH, we don’t allow tourism to flourish.

It’s natural that people are leaving if there aren’t any new jobs, if there’s no new money. So, the solution lies in making the country more accessible, changing the visa system, having new airlines, making it easier to set up a business, reducing the taxes and expenses of our public administration. This will create conditions necessary for investments. We want to build factories and produce, in other words, we want production to be cheaper in Bosnia and Herzegovina than in, say, Romania. In order to improve

TH

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M D CO MODIT

EY

– Transition is painful, and our transition came with a devastating war and a great number of experts fleeing the country. It’s not easy to

AN

SPONZOR VEČERE

In 2014, you were recognised as the most successful entrepreneur and leader. What’s the recipe for success in business?

– One word: passion. That’s the only way to beat strong competition.

RK

What could be done to have a greater number of successful business stories in Bosnia and Herzegovina?

S

NGES OF TU

Make the country more accessible!

R

HA

– I’ve travelled extensively and experienced a lot. I’ve been to some 65 countries and I think that what we have here in the region can’t be found anywhere else. In such a small area, we have Dubrovnik, Bled, the Monte Negro seaside, Mostar, Sarajevo, beautiful mountains, rivers, the sea… if we compared it to California, we could say that California has theme parks and the sea, but in three years you could build all the theme parks like the ones in Los Angeles, San Diego or San Francisco. It’s difficult to find something you can compare to what we have here in the Balkans.

P L AT I N A S T I S P O N Z O R I

XC

Why does it pay off to invest in Bosnia? What do you usually say to the investors?

JEDNA REGIJA, JEDNA EKONOMIJA

PA N E L S P O N Z O R I

Z VA N I Č N I AV I O P R I J E V O Z N I K

U SARADNJI SA

SPONZORI

ecard Kiosk - Panels - Software - Manufacturer

RAZVOJNA BANKA Federacije Bosne i Hercegovine

PODRŠKA

“Business people of the South-East Europe are real knights; that’s how difficult it is for them to conduct business in this environment.

That’s why we need to have a lot of respect for them.” ”

VLADA FEDERACIJE BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE www.fbihvlada.gov.ba GLOBALNI KOMUNIKACIJSKI PARTNER

SPECIJALNI NOVINSKI PARTNER

REGIONALNI MEDIJSKI PARTNER

MEDIJSKI SPONZORI

BIR RTV

BH MEDIJSKI PARTNERI

SPECIJALNI RADIO PARTNERI

SPECIJALNI BH WEB MEDIJSKI PARTNER

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

10 RAZLOGA ZAÅ TO POSJETITI BOSNU I HERCEGOVINU

REASONS TO VISIT BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

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57

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Fojnica

Foto/Photo: ADNAN BUBALO

1.

Igman

Zato što treba vidjeti kako se isprepliću Istok i Zapad i čuti kako zvuči kad se miješaju zvuci ezana i crkvenih zvona.

Because you should see how East and West intertwine and hear the mixing sounds of the Muslim call to prayer and church bells.

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2.

Zato što treba osjetiti čisti zrak bosanskih planina, uživati u njenim šumama, jezerima i tirkiznim rijekama s bistrom vodom, dubokim kanjonima i moćnim vodopadima.

Because you should breathe the fresh mountain air, explore Bosnian and Herzegovinian forests, lakes and turquoise rivers with clear waters, deep canyons and might waterfalls.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Ilidža

4.

Foto/Photo: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ

3.

Stari Grad Srebrenik / Old Town Srebrenik

Zato što je moguće osjetiti dodir starih vremena obilaskom brojnih tvrđava i drugih ostataka drevnih gradova kao i mjesta krunisanja bosanskih kraljeva.

Because it is possible to feel the touch of the old times by touring numerous fortresses and other remains of ancient cities and places where Bosnian kings were coronated.

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Zato što ima i ljekovite izvore, koji su iskorišteni u modernim banjskim lječilištima i spa centrima za rehabilitaciju i rekreaciju.

Because it also has healing springs which are used for rehabilitation and recreation in modern spa resorts and spa centres.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

5.

Stari grad Sarajevo / Old Town Sarajevo

Pravo je mjesto za kupovinu jeftinih i kvalitetnih rukotvorina i drugih proizvoda, ali i modernih svjetskih brendova.

It is the place to come to if you wish to buy low-price quality handcrafts and other products, but also famous contemporary brands.

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Rijeka Una / Una River

6.

Zato ĹĄto je pravi raj za ljubitelje raftinga, planinarenja, sportskog penjanja, paraglidinga, brdskog biciklizma i drugih avanturistiÄ?kih disciplina.

Because it is a real heaven for people who love rafting, hiking, climbing, paragliding, mountain biking and other adventure sports.

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7.

8.

Zato što se u BiH jede dobro i jeftino – morate probati ćevape, pite i druge specijalitete bosanske kuhinje.

Because food is good and cheap in Bosnia—you have got to try the ćevapi, pies and other specialties of the Bosnian cuisine.

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Zato što vrijedi doživjeti bosansko kafenisanje, ritual ispijanja kafe, koji predstavlja okosnicu društvenog života Bosne i Hercegovine.

Because it is worth experiencing Bosnian coffee drinking ritual which is the main feature of social life in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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9.

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Stari grad Sarajevo / Old Town Sarajevo

Stari grad Sarajevo / Old Town Sarajevo

10.

Zato što tu žive ljudi koji su uvijek spremni iskazati dobrodošlicu gostima i pomoći turistima u svakom trenutku.

Zato što vrijedi doživjeti bosansko kafenisanje, ritual ispijanja kafe, koji predstavlja okosnicu društvenog života Bosne i Hercegovine.

Because the people who live here are always keen on welcoming guests and helping tourists at any given moment.

Because it is worth experiencing Bosnian coffee drinking ritual which is the main feature of social life in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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PROGRAM MANIFESTACIJE

URNEBESNA

1. dan, 26.07.2017.

14.00-19.00 – okupljanje učesnika u kampu Martin Brod, piknik zona Lučica

Una regata

20.30 – svečano otvaranje manifestacije uz zabavni program 2. dan, 27.07.2017.

09.00 – start Una regate 11.30-12.00 – dolazak u Kulen Vakuf 12.00-14.30 – pauza za odmor, osvježenje i ručak 15.00 – nastavak plovidbe prema Štrbačkom buku 18.30 – dolazak učesnika regate u kamp u posjetilačkoj zoni Štrbački buk 20.00 – zabavni program u kampu 3. dan, 28.07.2017.

45. INTERNACIONALNA TURISTIČKA UNA REGATA ODRŽAT ĆE SE OD 26. DO 29. JULA NA JEDNOJ OD NAJLJEPŠIH RIJEKA BIH I U JEDINSTVENOM NACIONALNOM PARKU “UNA”, GDJE MOŽETE POSJETITI MILANČEV BUK I ŠTRBAČKI BUK, DIVITI SE MARTINBRODSKIM SLAPOVIMA, ZAVIRITI U UTVRDE I SAKRALNE OBJEKTE

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ovom bajkovitom prirodnom krajoliku tradicionalno se organizuje sportsko-rekreativni događaj koji predstavlja najveći avanturistički provod na rijeci u našoj zemlji. Tako će popularna manifestacija Una regata i ove godine donijeti bogat program unoseći u živote učesnika nezaboravna iskustva. Zbog toga nas nimalo ne čudi što mnogi od njih već mjesecima unaprijed završavaju svoje rezervacije. A kotizacija za učešće iznosi samo 40 KM, no, svakako, učesnici koji nemaju namjeru ploviti cijelu Una regatu imaju mogućnost odabira plovidbe po etapama. Po 15 KM koštaju etape Martin Brod – Štrbački buk, te Bihać – Bosanska Krupa, dok cijena etape Štrbački buk – Bihać iznosi 20,00 KM.

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Iz sredstava kotizacije osiguravaju se prostor za kampiranje, ulaz u posjetilačke zone NP “Una”, osiguranje učesnika od strane ovlaštene osiguravajuće kuće, angažman iskusnih kajakaša i ronioca radi bezbjednosti učesnika, angažman

vatrogasne i sanitetske službe, te ulaznica za pop-rock koncert kod kotizacije koja se odnosi na cijelu plovidbu. Učesnicima će također biti osiguran obrok, te će biti počašćeni kako sportskim tako i različitim zabavnim sadržajima

organizovanim u svim kampovima.

Dodatni izbor hrane i pića bit će dostupan na komercijalnoj osnovi na buffet-štandovima unutar kampova.

09.00-09.30 – polazak regate sa Štrbačkog buka

Svi zainteresovani za učešće na ovogodišnjoj Una regati s adekvatnim vlastitim plovilima, opremom i licenciranim skiperom, mogu se prijaviti organizatoru i učestvovati na manifestaciji. Učesnici koji nemaju vlastiti rafting čamac, ili neko drugo adekvatno plovilo, licenciranog voditelja čamca, odnosno skipera, kao i obaveznu opremu za plovidbu, a to su kaciga, prsluk za spašavanje i veslo, mogu se obratiti registrovanim agencijama koje vrše organizovanje sportskih aktivnosti na vodama u NP “Una”.

Također, svi koji budu željeli moći će sebi osigurati smještaj u nekom od smještajnih kapaciteta duž plovidbe Una regate. Više informacija, naravno, možete saznati ukoliko posjetite zvaničnu stranicu Nacionalnog parka “Una” – www. nationalpark-una.ba.

16.00 – nastavak plovidbe prema Bihaću

12.30-13.00 – dolazak u mjesto Račić 13.00-15.00 – pauza za odmor, osvježenje i ručak

18.30 – 19.00 dolazak regate u Bihać (kamp na Gradskoj otoci) 20.00 – pop-rock koncert na stadionu NK “Jedinstvo” Bihać 4. dan, 29.07.2017.

10.00 – polazak Una regate prema Bosanskoj Krupi 12.00-14.00 – pauza za odmor, osvježenje i ručak u kompleksu TRC “Sedra” 14.00 – nastavak plovidbe prema Bosanskoj Krupi 18.00-19.00 – dolazak u Bosansku Krupu (kamp “Male Ade”) 21.00 – svečano zatvaranje regate 21.30 – zabavni program.

KONTAKT: Nacionalni Park „Una“ Bosanska 1, 77 000 Bihać Office: +387 37 221 528 www.nationalpark-una.ba

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PROGRAMME Day 1, 26 July 2017 14:00-19:00 – gathering of the participants in the camp/picnic area Lučica in Martin Brod 20:30 – official opening of the 45th International Una Regatta and the beginning of the entertainment programme Day 2, 27 July 2017 09:00 – start of the Una Regatta 11:30-12:00 – arrival to Kulen Vakuf

AWESOME

12:00-14:30 – lunch break, refreshments and relaxation 15:00 – resuming the journey towards Štrbački buk

Una Regatta

18:30 – arrival of participants to the campsite at the Štrbački buk visitor zone 20:00 – entertainment programme in the camp Day 3, 28 July 2017 09:00-09:30 – departure of the regatta from Štrbački buk 12:30-13:00 – arrival to Račić 13:00-15:00 – lunch break, refreshments and relaxation 16:00 – resuming the journey towards Bihać 18:30 – 19:00 arrival to Bihać (Gradska otoka camp)

45TH INTERNATIONAL TOURIST UNA REGATTA WILL BE HELD FROM 26 THROUGH 29 JULY 2017 ON ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RIVERS IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA AND THE UNIQUE “UNA” NATIONAL PARK WHERE YOU CAN VISIT MILANČEV BUK AND ŠTRBAČKI BUK WATERFALLS, ADMIRE THE CASCADES OF MARTIN BROD, AND TAKE A PEEK AT THE FORTRESSES AND RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS

20:00 – pop-rock concert at the NK “Jedinstvo” stadium in Bihać Day 4, 29 July 2017 10:00 – departure of the Una Regatta toward Bosanskoj Krupi 12:00-14:00 – lunch break, refreshments and relaxation at TRC “Sedra” 14:00 – resuming the journey towards Bosanska Krupa

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n this fairy-like natural landscape, is organised a traditional recreational sports event representing the greatest adventure in our country. This year too, the popular Una Regatta event will offer a rich programme enriching participants’ lives with unforgettable experience.

That is why it is no surprise that many of them make their booking several months in advance.

Participation fee costs only 40 BAM, but participants who do not intend to sail and participate in the entire Una Regatta can choose to sail by stages. The prices are as follows: the Martin Brod – Štrbački buk and the Bihać – Bosanska Krupa stage 70

cost 15 BAM, whereas the Štrbački buk – Bihać stage costs 20,00 BAM. Participation fee covers camping space, entrance fees to the “Una”

National Park visitor zones, participants’ insurance by an authorised insurance agency, experienced kayakers and divers who will en-

sure the safety of participants, fire brigade and medical services as well as tickets for a pop-rock band concert for the participation fee for the entire regatta. Participants will also be provided with a meal and treated to various sport activities and entertainment programme organised in all the camps. Additional selection of food and beverages will be available for purchase within the camps. Those interested in participating in this year’s Una Regatta with their own vessels, equipment and licenced skipper can contact the organiser and take part in this event. Participants who do not have a rafting boat or some other appropriate vessel, licensed

18:00-19:00 – arrival to Bosanska Krupa (“Male Ade” camp) 21:00 – official closing of the regatta 21:30 – entertainment program

skipper, and basic safety equipment, i.e. helmets, life jackets and paddles can contact the agencies registered for organising sports activities on the waters “Una” National Park.

Also, those who wish to find accommodation along the river will be able to do so. More information is available on the official website of the “Una” National Park: www. nationalpark-una.ba.

CONTACT: Una National Park

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Zološki vrt

PIONIRSKA DOLINA

Ovaj zabavni park idealno je mjesto za cijelu porodicu i služi kao omiljena vikend destinacija. Pored zološkog vrta postoje i brojni drugi sadržaji. Mališani će se radovati vožnji malim vozićem, trampolini, autićima na struju, vrteški, autodromu... Kada se umore predah mogu pronaći u parkovima s ljuljačkama, klackalicama i toboganima koji su uvijek puni djece.

Pionirska dolina je bogata različitim hortikulturnim sadržajima, florom i faunom. Ukoliko ste ljubitelji životinja možete vidjeti oko 39 životinjskih vrsta iz različitih dijelova svijeta, a od toga nekoliko vrsta lama, valabi klokane, antilope, zebru, lava i lavicu, jelene, srne i mnoge druge životinje iz različitih dijelova svijeta.

Pionirska dolina otvorena je 365 dana u godini, a radno vrijeme je prilagođeno godišnjem dobu. Nije dozvoljen ulazak s psima.

U Pionirskoj dolini vodite računa o sljedećem: ● ● ● ●

Ne hranite životinje!

Ne uznemiravajte životinje!

Ne prelazite zaštitne ograde!

Otpatke bacajte u kante za smeće!

Pionirska dolina je samo dva kilometra udaljena od strogog centra grada, na području Općine Centar. Do Pionirske doline možete doći javnim gradskim prijevozom, vlastitim prijevozom ili pješke. Ukoliko se odlučite za gradski prijevoz sjednite na trolejbus za Jezero. To je najlakši način da dođete do Pionirske doline ukoliko niste iz Sarajeva.

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Pionirska dolina

(PIONEER VALLEY) ZOO

Pionirska dolina has diverse horticultural facilities, and is rich in flora and fauna. If you are an animal lover, you can see over 39 animal species inlcuding llamas, kangaroos, antelopes, zebras, a lion and a lioness, deer, does and other animals from various parts of the world.

Pionirska dolina is open 365 days a year, and working hours are varied depending on the season. It is not allowed to enter with dogs.

While visiting Pionirska dolina, please note the following:

This fun park is an ideal place for the whole family and serves as a favorite weekend destination. Apart from the zoo, there are various other facilities there. The youngsters will be happy to go on a mini-train ride, jump on a trampoline, ride a bumper car, go on a merry-go-round or racetrack and rubber town. When they get tired, they can take a break in parks with swings, seesaws and slides, which are always full of children.

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● Do not feed the animals! ● Do not disturb the animals! ● Do not cross the protective fences! ● Throw your garbage in the garbage bins!

Pionirska dolina is only two kilometers away from the heart of the city centre, in the municipality of Centar. It can be reached by public transport, your own transport or on foot. If you choose the public transport, take the trolleybus heading to Jezero. That is the easiest way to get to Pionirska dolina if you are not from Sarajevo.

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SARAJEVSKA BAJKA Idilično odredište daleko od svakidašnjih stresova i teškoća Foto: MAHIR HAMZIĆ

Sličan prizor kao kada otvarate slikovnicu i ugledate maštoviti pejzaž, čarobnu kućicu, junake priče, u stvarnosti možete doživjeti samo deset kilometara od centra Sarajeva, iznad Rajlovca, gdje se nalazi restoran Sarajevska bajka.

Ovdje, na 800 metara nadmorske visine, u prirodnom okruženju, uz domaću hranu, možete provesti predivan porodični dan, no znajte da ćete za Sarajevsku bajku također vezati i određenu dozu romantike kao i sjete. Cijeli prostor restorana podijeljen je u nekoliko povezanih cjelina, gdje se možete ugodno smjestiti i uživati u tišini i mirisima borova, dok se vaša djeca igraju. Sarajevsku bajku čine: Pionirska dolina, prostor za igru namijenjen djeci, Stojčevac, Prvi šumar, Kod Stake, Avlija...

Svaki detalj i kutak koji vidite uredili su sami vlasnici. Preovladavaju prirodne boje i materijali, dok središtem dominira prostor sa srcolikim bazenom dekorativne namjene. Oko njega je tridesetak natkrivenih mjesta, a Sarajevska bajka ima i podijum s pogledom na prekrasnu prirodu.

Kako doći do Sarajevske bajke Iako je daleko od gradske vreve, Sarajevsku bajku ipak nije teško pronaći. Kada krenete iz grada, prođite Robot u Rajlovcu, veliki novi most, te skrenite lijevo. Nakon 200 metara, desno ćete vidjeti putokaz u obliku crvenog srca. Tada skrećete i penjete se uz brdo oko dva kilometra, sve do kraja asfalta. Još jedno crveno srce najavljuje da ste stigli, samo još skrenite desno i parkirajte ispred kapije. Već na prvi pogled shvatit ćete da je vrijedilo doći i da uspon i nije tako velik.

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SARAJEVO FAIRY TALE AN IDYLIC PLACE FAR FROM THE EVERYDAY STRESS AND PROBLEMS Photo: MAHIR HAMZIĆ A view similar to the one you see when you open a picture book with an imaginative landscape, a magical house, the heroes of the story, can be seen and experienced in real life only ten kilometres away from the centre of Sarajevo, above Rajlovac, where the Sarajevo Fairy Tale restaurant is located. There, at 800 metres above sea level, in the natural environment where they prepare home-cooked meals, you can spend a day with your family. You should also know that you will think of the

Sarajevo Fairy Tale in a somewhat romantic way and with melancholy.

The entire restaurant area is divided into several linked parts where you can sit comfortably and enjoy the quiet and pine tree scents while your children play. The Sarajevo Fairy Tale comprises Pionirska dolina (the Pioneers’ Valley), the playground for the kids, Stojčevac, Prvi šumar (the First Forester), Kod Stake (At Staka’s), Avlija (the Garden)...

The owners designed every detail and corner that you can see here.

Natural colours and materials are predominant; in the centre, a heart-shaped decorative pool dominates the area. Some thirty seating places surround it. The Sarajevo Fairy Tale also has a podium with a great view of the landscape.

How can you reach the Sarajevo Fairy Tale?

Even though it is far from the city crowd, the Sarajevo Fairy Tale is not that hard to find. In case you in the city centre, head out to Rajlovac and pass the Robot shopping centre and the large new bridge, and then turn left. After 200 metres, you will see a red heartshaped sign. Turn there and go up the hill for about two kilometres until you reach the end of the asphalt road. Another red heartshaped sign will tell you that you are there; then just turn right and park in front of the gate. At first glance you will realise it was worth it to come to this place and that the hill was not that steep after all.

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SARAJEVO TOKOM RAMAZANA

Čarolija RAMAZANSKIH NOĆI

KADA SE SA ŽUTE TABIJE ZAČUJE ZVUK TOPA I OZNAČI POČETAK SVETOG MUSLIMANSKOG MJESECA RAMAZANA, U SARAJEVSKE DOMOVE UĐE NEKA POSEBNA RADOST, A STARIM DIJELOM GRADA, BAŠČARŠIJOM, TAD SE ŠIRI MIRIS NAJLJEPŠIH JELA KOJE SARAJEVSKI UGOSTITELJI SPREMAJU ZA POSTAČE. IZ PEKARA SE OSJETI MIRIS RAMAZANSKIH SOMUNA. SARAJLIJE, KAO I SVI ONI KOJI U GLAVNOM GRADU BIH PROVODE OVAJ SVETI MJESEC, UŽIVAJU U PRIPREMANJIMA JELA I DRUŽENJIMA TOKOM IFTARA, KOJI SE TRADICIONALNO ORGANIZUJU U DRUŠTVU PORODICE I BLISKIH PRIJATELJA

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amazan je mjesec najbrojnijih blagodati, božije milosti, oprosta, zaštite i svjetlosti koja se širi kroz duše vjernika i njihove domove. Kada se s munara sarajevskih džamija oglasi ezan za akšam, i sa Žute tabije pukne top koji označava vrijeme iftara, počne se čuti jedinstven zvuk kašika i čaša postača koji u tom trenutku prekidaju svoj višesatni post. U tom trenutku čaršija odjednom oživi, a u restoranima i aščinicama nerijetko se traži mjesto više. Čarolija ramazanskih noći osjeti se u svakoj ulici, na svakom uglu grada, a posebno kada se nakon iftara razlije rijeka ljudi u potrazi za mjestom gdje će s prijateljima popiti kafu.

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Ljepota kakva se ne može vidjeti na drugim mjestima Ugledni svjetski časopisi, među kojima je i Nacionalna geografija, Baščaršiju tokom Ramazana opisali su kao mjesto takve ljepote kakva se ne može vidjeti na drugim mjestima. Život tada poprima neki novi ritam, ljudi se više posjećuju i zajedno provode večeri, a ono što privlači posjetioce i izaziva divljenje onih koji se zateknu u Sarajevu u svetom mjesecu jeste šarenilo običaja i religija – multikulturalnost i tolerancija koja je vidjiva na svakom koraku.

Brojne manifestacije Kako je Ramazan u proteklih pet, šest godina u jeku turističke sezone, organizovani su i mnogi prigodni sadržaji vjerskog tipa koji privlače brojne turiste, posebno one iz Turske i arapskih zemalja. Održava se i Sarajevo Ramazan Festival u okviru kojeg su aktivnosti organizovane na različitim lokacijama u gradu.

Posljednjih godina prava atrakcija postao je i Ramazanski top na Žutoj tabiji, inače tradicija stara više od stotinu godina. Sarajlije i brojni turisti odlaze na Žutu tabiju kako bi uživali u ramazanskim blagodatima, ali i u očaravajućem pogledu na glavni grad BiH.

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RAMADAN IN SARAJEVO

THE MAGIC OF

Ramadan Nights

mes to life, and in restaurants and aščinica’s (Bosnian ready meals type of restaurants) some extra seating is usually required. The magic of Ramadan nights can be felt on every street, at every corner of the city, and especially when, after iftar, a river of people flows around, seeking places to drink coffee with their friends.

Beauty that cannot be seen in other places Many revered international magazines, including the National Geographic, described Baščaršija during Ramadan as a place of such beauty that cannot be seen in other places.

Life then takes on some new rhythm, people visit each other more and spend the evenings together, and what attracts visitors and provokes the admiration of those who are in Sarajevo in the holy month are the colourful customs and religions multiculturalism and tolerance that can be seen at every step.

Numerous festivities Since the Ramadans of the past five to six years happened to coincide with the height of the tourist season, many commemorative activities of religious character

WHEN THE CANNON BLASTS FROM ŽUTA TABIJA (YELLOW FORTRESS) MARKING THE BEGINNING OF THE HOLY MUSLIM MONTH OF RAMADAN, A SPECIAL KIND OF JOY ENTERS SARAJEVO’S HOMES, AND IN THE OLD PART OF TOWN, BAŠČARŠIJA, THE AROMAS OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DISHES THAT SARAJEVO’S CATERERS PREPARE FOR FASTING PEOPLE START TO SPREAD, MINGLING WITH THE SCENT OF RAMADAN FLAT SOFT ROLLS FROM BAKERIES. SARAJEVANS, LIKE ALL THOSE WHO SPEND THIS HOLY MONTH IN THE B&H CAPITAL, ENJOY TO PREPARE MEALS AND SOCIALISE DURING IFTARS WHICH ARE TRADITIONALLY SPENT WITH FAMILY AND CLOSE FRIENDS 82

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amadan is the month of the greatest blessings, God’s grace, forgiveness, protection and light that spreads through the souls of the faithful and their homes. When the adhan from the minarets of Sarajevo’s mosques announces dusk time, and when the cannon blasts from Žuta tabija (Yellow Fortress) marking iftar time, you begin to hear the unique sound of clinking cutlery and glasses of the fasting people who at that moment cease their fast of many hours. At that moment the heart of the old city suddenly co-

were organized, drawing in numerous tourists, especially those from Turkey and Arab countries. Sarajevo Ramadan Festival was also held, featuring activities at various locations in the city.

In recent years, the Ramadan cannon at the Yellow Fortress, which has been a tradition for over a hundred years, has become a real attraction. Sarajevans, as well as many tourists, go to the Yellow Fortress to enjoy the Ramadan festivities, but also to see the splendid views of the B&H capital.

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PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

Kako bi ambijent hotel baštine Ovo malo duše dočarao priču prošlosti kreativni tim tražio je antikvitete širom BiH, ali i dalje.

Hotel baština

OVO MALO DUŠE JEDNOM KADA DOĐETE, BEZ SUMNJE ĆETE POŽELJETI DA SE VRATITE! Piše: ELMA ZEĆO

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ve je počelo s idejom da ovo mjesto treba biti napravljeno onako kako se pišu priče koje prepričavaju događaje iz bogate prošlosti Sarajeva, satkane prije svega u njegovoj raznolikoj arhitekturi. Ali kao što jedan grad ne čine samo njegova zdanja, nego i ono najvažnije – ljudi, trebalo je naći način kako ponovo oživjeti tu posebnu, riječima teško opisivu dušu grada, koja snažno privlači poput neodoljivog zvuka harfe u rukama misteriozne sirene.

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Wiener Café Tako je nastao hotelijersko-ugostiteljski projekat Muniba Preljevića, poslovnog čovjeka porijeklom s naših prostora, koji živi u Berlinu baveći se uspješno hotelijerstvom.

No, u Sarajevo nije došao samo zbog biznisa. Ovdje je želio nešto drugo, najprije doprinijeti gradu čuvajući njegovo kulturno-historijsko bogatstvo, koje privlači turiste iz svih dijelova svijeta.

Svoju hotel baštinu, čiji važan dio predstavlja Wiener Café, nazvao je simbolično – Ovo malo duše. I baš kao što se u centralnoj zoni bh. prijestolnice u jednom trenutku uplovljava iz dijela grada koji nosi obilježja Evrope u dio koji podsjeća na doba Osmanlija, tako i u preuređenoj austrougarskoj vili iz 1894. godine samo jedan korak dijeli Istok od Zapada. Odnosno, iz Wiener Caféa, klasičnog primjera bečke kafane, ulazite u hotelski dio baštine Ovo malo duše, koja svojim izgledom nosi štih Orijenta. Osmislio je to ambiciozno Munib zajedno s iskusnom arhitekticom Lejlom Krstić, Sarajkom s njemačkom adresom stanovanja. A da su svi koji su dio sebe utkali u koncept krasne hotel baštine upućeni u šeretluke Sarajeva, govore i svi oni nazivi kafa ispisani na tabli s desne strane Wiener Caféa, odmah iza šanka.

Zato baš ovdje svako jutro možete započeti s kafom Sabahušom, razbuditi se uz malo jaču Kajmakušu, doći s prijateljima na Razgovorušu,

ili Dočekušu, dok je Jacijuša predviđena za večernje sate. Ali, da znate, možete naručiti i Razgalicu. Wiener Café mjesto je za svakodnevna druženja prijatelja, mladića i djevojaka, bračnih parova i poslovnih ljudi, ali i mjesto s kojim će se također upoznati svi gosti hotel baštine Ovo malo duše, jer im se upravo tu priređuje ukusni doručak, bilo da je engleski, bosanski, sarajevski, bečki ili bio doručak. Naravno, ovdje će svako naći ono što mu odgovara.

Unikatni ambijent Kako bi ambijent hotel baštine Ovo malo duše dočarao priču prošlosti kreativni tim tražio je antikvitete širom BiH, ali i dalje. Iako su prvobitno imali drugačiju namjenu, mnogi su preuređeni postavši unikatni predmeti, poput stola u jednoj od pet individualno dizajniranih soba, koji je svojevremeno služio kao mašina za šivanje. Stari predmeti kombinovani su s bosanskim ćilimima, rukotvo-

rinama porodice Nikšić iz Konjica, prikladnim namještajem i dekorativnim detaljima. Kao što nijedna soba nije ista, tako je i svako kupatilo drugačijeg izgleda, a isti efekat postignut je također s predsobljima.

Ono što je zajedničko stare su slike najčešće nepoznatog datuma izrade, koje ostaju iza vas dok šetate spratovima. Svugdje je drugačije, ali isti osjećaj – osjećaj spokoja. Ako ste putnik kojem su podjednako važni turistički izleti, znamenitosti jednog grada i mjesto gdje ćete odsjesti, sigurno ćete biti presretni ukoliko odaberete hotel baštinu Ovo malo duše u Sarajevu. Nije samo njen ambijent ono što će vas očarati.

Sama lokacija na čuvenoj, u 15. vijeku izgrađenoj Baščaršiji, starom sarajevskom bazaru, ponudit će vam idealnu poziciju s koje možete krenuti u otkrivanje šarolikog mozaika znamenitosti bh. prijestolnice Zato, dođite, ovdje vas s osmijehom čekaju!

HOTEL BAŠTINA “OVO MALO DUŠE” Mudželeti Mali No. 2 71000 SARAJEVO Tel: + 387 33 972 800 Fax: + 387 33 232 429 www.ovo-malo-duse.com 85

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

This Little Bit of Soul (Ovo malo duše)

HERITAGE HOTEL

ONCE YOU COME HERE, THERE IS NO DOUBT YOU WILL WANT TO COME HERE AGAIN! Written by: ELMA ZEĆO

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t all began with the idea that this place needed to be made the way stories of Sarajevo’s eventful past are written; it needed to be made to primarily reflect Sarajevo’s diverse architecture.

But just as a city is not made up only of its buildings, but—most importantly—its people, it was necessary to find a way to bring back to life the exquisite soul of the city, the soul which can hardly be put into words, the soul which pulls one to it like an irresistible sound of a harp in the hands of a mysterious mermaid.

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This heritage hotel tell the story of time long past, the creative team sought to find antiquities throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina and beyond.

important part of which is the Wiener Café, ‘This Little Bit of Soul’.

And just as, in the central zone of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian capital, the part of town that bears the characteristics of Europe at one point flows into the part reminiscent of the Ottoman era, in the refurbished Austro-Hungarian villa from 1894 the East is only a single step away from the West. In other words, from the Wiener Café, the classical example of a Viennese café, you enter the hotel part of the ‘This Little Bit of

Soul’ heritage, which has an Oriental look to it. Munib devised it ambitiously together with an experienced architect, Lejla Krstić, a Sarajevan living in Germany. All of those who have woven a part of themselves in the concept behind the wonderful heritage hotel are quite familiar with the craftiness of the Sarajevo people which is evident in all the names of different types of coffee written on the right-hand side board placed right behind the Wiener Café’s bar.

This is why this is the place where you can start each morning with a sabahuša (the coffee you drink at the crack of dawn), perk up with a little stronger coffee called kajmakuša (coffee with cream), meet up with friends over a cup of razgovoruša (the coffee which entices you to talk), or dočekuša (the coffee you drink to welcome people), while jacijuša (the coffee you drink late at night) is reserved for the late-night hours.

But, you can also order a razgalica (coffee which can help you lift your spirits). Wiener Café is a place for day-to-day meet ups with friends, boyfriends and girlfriends, married couples and business people, but also a place all the guests of the ‘This Little Bit of Soul’ heritage hotel will get familiar with since they eat tasty breakfast right there: the English, the Bosnian, the Sarajevo, the Viennese breakfast or the bio breakfast. Of course, there is something here for everyone.

Wiener Café

Unique Ambiance

That is how Munib Preljević’s hotel-catering project came to be.

Munib Preljević is a businessman from the Balkans who lives in Berlin and runs a successful hotel business. Now, he did not come to Sarajevo just to do business.

He wanted something else here; he wanted to contribute to the city by preserving its cultural and historical heritage which attracts tourists from all around the world.

He named his heritage hotel, the

In order to make the ambiance of the ‘This Little Bit of Soul’ heritage hotel tell the story of time long past, the creative team sought to find antiquities throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina and beyond. Even though the original intended use of some of the antiquities was somewhat different from the present one, many of them were adapted and made unique, such as the table in one of the five individually designed rooms which used to be a sewing machine. Old items were

combined with Bosnian carpets, handcrafts of the Nikšić family from Konjic, appropriate furniture and decorative details. None of the rooms are the same; likewise, each bathroom looks different, and the same approach was used for the ante rooms. What they have in common are the old paintings; the date on which they were painted is most often unknown. When you walk through the hotel, they stay behind you. Each floor is different, but the feeling is the same—the sense of tranquillity. If you are a traveller who gives equal importance to short tours, city landmarks and the place you stay at, then you will surely be happy to choose the Sarajevo’s ‘This Little Bit of Soul’ heritage hotel. You will be enchanted not only by its ambience, but also by its location—the 15th century Baščaršija, the old Sarajevo bazaar—which offers you an ideal starting point for the discovery of the Bosnian and Herzegovinian capital city’s diverse mosaic.

So, come here; a smile and a warm welcome await you!

HOTEL BAŠTINA “OVO MALO DUŠE” Mudželeti Mali No. 2 71000 SARAJEVO Tel: + 387 33 972 800 Fax: + 387 33 232 429 www.ovo-malo-duse.com 87

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Mostar

Grad svjetlosti

OVDJE ĆETE DOŽIVJETI KULTURNO-HISTORIJSKI MOZAIK, ČIJE JE KOCKICE POSLOŽILA PROŠLOST, I STEĆI DOJAM POD PLAVIM NEBOM DA OVAJ GRAD GRIJE SUNCE KAO DA JE NJEGOVO VLASTITO Piše: ELMA ZEĆO

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Stari most je ogromnim graditeljskim zahvatom ponovo oživio i nalazi se na spisku Svjetske kulturne baštine UNESCO-a.

“Kad čovjek prenoći u Mostaru, nije zvuk ono što ga probudi ujutru, nego svjetlost. To znam iz iskustva. Svjetlost me je dočekala pri dolasku u Mostar, pratila za vrijeme mog boravka od jutra do večeri, a docnije, po odlasku, ostajala u meni kao glavna karakteristika moga sjećanja na Mostar �...�”, riječi su velikog književnika Ive Andrića.

Startna pozicija turističke posjete Mostar, osim historije, tradicije i kulture, ima – poput rijetkih ljudi – svoju snažnu harizmu. Stoga ne čudi zašto Mostarci s tolikim ponosom govore o svom mjestu rođenja, koje je mnogima od njih podjednako važno kao i matični broj. Mostar je nezaobilazna turistička destinacija, ali i jedno od omiljenih mjesta za jednodnevni izlet Bosanaca i Hercegovaca. Stigne li vikend, mnogi će to potvrditi, nerijetkim Sarajlijama nije teško sjesti u auto i voziti se dva sata prema jugu kako bi popili kafu s pogledom na hirovitu riječnu ljepoticu Neretvu, čije obale grli njegov simbol i jedan od najslavnijih mostova Balkana, Stari most. Na ulazu u Stari grad s desne strane ostavit ćete glasovitu mostarsku tržnicu Tepu. Svakim novim korakom šetajući prema, kako ga u Mostaru zovu, Starom, misli se mostu, posebno kada je lijepo vrijeme, stopit ćete se s vrevom ljudi koji hrle u dva smjera.

Ili prema centru, ili dublje u staru jezgru grada. Oslušnete li ipak preciznije razgovore, čut ćete razne strane jezike pridošlih turista koji svojim fotoaparatima bilježe važne momente za sjećanje, ili zagledaju primamljive suvenire i ostale ukrase obrtničkih radnji smještenih u starom bazaru, Kujundžiluku.

Predahnuti se uvijek može u nekom od ugostiteljskih objekata. Nikako nemojte propustiti priliku da sjednete negdje gdje ćete moći probati jelo slatke hercegovačke kuhinje – smokvaru, specifičnu po domaćem

pekmezu od smokvi, čijem rastu ne smeta vrelo hercegovačko tlo.

Iako nije uvijek lako naći mjesto za sjedenje, razumljivo, svako teži da bude bliži okosnici Starog grada, Starom mostu, koji se prema nebu uzdiže u obliku kamene duge omeđene kulama s obje obale – Tare s istočne, te Halebije sa zapadne strane. Most je po nalogu sultana Sulejmana Veličanstvenog izgradio turski arhitekta Hajrudin. Od 1566. godine čvrsto je stajao sve do tragične 1993. godine kada postaje žrtva okrutnog rata. Godinama kasnije Stari most je ogromnim graditeljskim zahvatom ponovo oživio i nalazi se na spisku Svjetske kulturne baštine UNESCO-a.

Nedaleko od njega naći ćete Krivu ćupriju, mali kameni most, za mnoge minijaturna verzija Starog mosta, koji premošćuje Radobolju.

Bogatstvo je u različitosti U otomanskom stilu građene su i brojne mostarske džamije. One su prije svega čuste, poput Karađoz-

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begove džamije, koja se nalazi na listi najreprezentativnijih spomenika sakralne islamske arhitekture 16. vijeka. Već ko se popenje na minaret Koski Mehmed-pašine džamije s prvobitno očuvanom bojom i dekoracijom zidova, još iz 1617., bit će nagrađen panoramskim pogledom na Mostar.

Iz perioda prisustva Osmanskog carstva na ovim prostorima mnogo je još tragova u Mostaru, no ono što će zasigurno privući pažnju radoznalih su tri turske kuće koje svjedoče o nekadašnjem stilu stanovanja. Iza visokih zidova koji čuvaju intimu porodice kriju se tako Kuća Bišćevića, Kuća Kajtaza i Kuća Muslibegovića, koje se već u svojim dvorištima polako počinju otkrivati očima gostiju mameći ih dekoracijama na tlu, fontanama, cvijećem i voćkama. U doba Osmanlija dijelom mostarske duše postaje i jevrejska zajednica. Sinagogu, koja je u naselju Brankovac izgrađena 1889., početkom 50-ih godina prošlog vijeka Jevrejska općina Mostar ustupila je Pozorištu lutaka isključivo za tu namjenu. I Austro-Ugarska je dala svoj kreativni građevinski doprinos Mostaru.

Impresivna Stara gimnazija (1898.), u kojoj se danas nalazi Gimnazija Mostar, veliki je objekat na Španskom trgu rađen u pseudomaorskom stilu, a od nje nije daleko još jedna zanimljivost – Gradska banja na Musali. No, za vrijeme austrou90

garske carevine, na uzvisini istočnog dijela grada, 1908. godine svoj život počela je živjeti također mitropolija Vladičin dvor, monument neobaroknog arhitektonskog stila. U Mostaru najznačajniji arheološki lokalitet iz ranokršćanskog perioda predstavljaju ostaci ranokršćanske bazilike u naselju Cim, dok je katolička crkva sagrađena 1866. godine, a uz nju nešto kasnije i Franjevački samostan veoma bogate biblioteke. Nakon što je crkva nastradala u vihoru nasilja, u godinama po njegovom gašenju podignuta je nova većih dimenzija. Prema posljednjim medijskim navodima, Mostaru će se uskoro vratiti još jedan od njegovih simbola, a to je Saborna crkva Svete trojice, zaštićeni nacionalni spomenik. Plan je da se posveti 2019. godine, kada se navršava 800 godina od osnivanja eparhije zahumsko-hercegovačke i primorske.

Visoko mjesto na listi mostarskih znamenitosti zauzima također Partizansko spomen groblje sa 661 nadgrobnim kamenom. Prema arhitektonskom rješenju Bogdana Bogdanovića, izgrađeno je 1965. u znak sjećanja na poginule mostarske partizane.

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1. Karađozbegova džamija/Karagöz Bey Mosque 2. Muslibegovića kuća/ Muslibegovic House 3. Biščevića kuća/ Bišćević House 4. Ibrik, detalj iz Biščevića kuće/Ewer, detail from Bišćević House

Obavezno posjetite mjesto rođenja jednog od najvećih pjesnika našeg prostora, Alekse Šantića. Grad koji je poštovan i nošen u srcu širom svijeta kao sjaj kojeg godine ne izdaju, u stilu Merlinove Mostarske: “Ja ću biti sijed, ja ću biti star, al’ biće vječno mlad moj Mostar...”

MOSTAR

The City of Light HERE YOU WILL EXPERIENCE A CULTURAL-HISTORICAL MOSAIC, WHOSE PIECES WERE BROUGHT TOGETHER BY THE PAST AND GET AN IMPRESSION UNDER A BLUE SKY THAT THE SUN SHINES ON THIS CITY AS IF IT WERE ITS OWN

‘’When a man happens to spend the night in Mostar, he is not awakened by the sound in the morning, but by the light. I know from experience. The light welcomed me upon my arrival in Mostar, it followed me during my stay from the morning until the evening, and later, upon my leaving, stayed inside of me as the main feature of my memory of Mostar �...�’’, said the great writer Ivo Andrić.

Starting point of a tour In addition to its history, tradition and culture, Mostar-like some rare people do- has its strong charisma.

Therefore, it is no wonder why Mostarians speak with so much pride about their place of birth which to many of them bears as much importance as their ID numbers.

Mostar is an unavoidable tourist destination, but also one of the

Written by: ELMA ZEĆO

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1. Kriva ćuprija / Crooked bridge 2. Kujundžiluk, Stari grad / Kujundžiluk street, Old town 3. Stara gimnazija, Španjolski trg / The Old Gymnasium 4. Ulaz u Staro kupatilo / Public bathroom 5 Koski Mehmed-pašina džamija / Koski Mehmed-pasha mosque 6.,7. Kajtazova kuća / Kajtaz’ House 8. Partizansko groblje / The Partisan Memorial Cemetery 9. Franjevačka crkva / Franciscan monastery

Three Ottoman houses bear witness to the way of living of the times past: Bišćević House, the Kajtaz’ House, and the Muslibegović House

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favorite places of Bosnians and Herzegovinians for a one-day trip. Come weekend, as many will attest, a great many Sarajevans will gladly get into their cars for a two-hour drive toward the south to have a cup of coffee with a view on the capricious beauty, the Neretva river; its banks are hugged by the city’s symbol and one of the most illustrious bridges of the Balkans, the Old bridge. At the entrance to the Old town you will be leaving the renown Mostar market Tepa on your right. With each new step, as you are walking toward the Old, as the bridge is popularly called in Mostar, especially when the weather is nice, you will melt into a throng of people heading in two directions. Or toward the center or further into the heart of the old town.

If, however, you make an effort to hear conversations more clearly, you will get to hear different foreign languages of newly arrived tourists who are recording with their cameras important moments to keep in their memory or are taking a close look at alluring souvenirs and other decorations of the small artisan shops located in the old bazaar, Kujundžiluk. One can always take a rest in one of the nearby

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restaurants and cafés. Make sure you don’t miss a chance to go to some place where you can try a sweet Herzegovinian dish-smokvara- which is special because it contains a home-made fig jam, with figs grown unhindered on the red hot soil of Herzegovina.

Although it is not always easy to find a place to sit, which is understandable, since everyone is trying to be closer to the landmark of the Old town, the Old bridge, which rises towards the sky as a rainbow made of stone and bounded with towers on both banks -Tara from the eastern, and Halebija from the western side. The bridge was made by Ottoman architect Hayruddin by order of the Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Since 1566 it remained unscathed until tragic events of 1993 when it became the victim of the cruel war.

Years later the Old bridge was brought to life again by a major construction project and is included in the UNESCO’s World heritage list.

Not far away from it you will find the Crooked bridge, a small stone bridge crossing the Radoblja river, which for many is a miniature version of the Old bridge.

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There is richness in diversity Many Mostar mosques were also built in the Ottoman style. Their main characteristic is their coziness, like that of Karadjoz-bey’s mosque, which is featured on the list of the most representative monuments of the sacral Islamic architecture of the 16th century. Whoever climbs the minaret of the Koski Mehmed-pasha mosque with its preserved original wall color and decorations dating way back to 1617, will be treated with a panoramic view of Mostar.

Many traces from the Ottoman period are still present in Mostar, but what is certain to attract the attention of the curious are three Ottoman houses which bear witness to the way of living of the times past. Behind tall walls which guard the family’s privacy are hidden the Bišćević House, the Kajtaz’ House, and the Muslibegović House, which already in their courtyards slowly start to reveal themselves to the guests’ eyes luring them with the decorations on the ground, fountains, flowers and fruit trees.

During the Ottoman period, the Jewish community also became part of Mostar’s soul. In the early 1950’s

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the Jewish municipality of Mostar ceded the synagogue, which was built in the Brankovac neighbourhood in 1889, to the Puppet theater exclusively for that purpose. Austro-Hungarian Empire also contributed in creative ways to Mostar’s architecture. The impressive Old Gymnasium (1898) which nowadays houses the Mostar Gymnasium, is a large building on the Spanish square constructed in Pseudo-Moorish style, and not far away from it is another attraction- The city spa at Musala. However, during the Austro-Hungarian rule, on the hills of the eastern part of the town, a metropolitan see Vladičin dvor (Metropolitan palace), a monument of

Neo-Baroque style was founded in 1908. In Mostar, the most significant archeological site from the early Christian Period are the remnants of an Early Christian basilica in the Cim neighborhood; the Catholic church was built in 1866 and next to it some years later the Franciscan monastery with an extensive library.

After the church was destroyed in a whirlwind of violence, a new, bigger one, was built in the years that followed. According the latest media reports, one of Mostar’s symbols, the Congregational Church of the Holy Trinity, the protected national monument, will soon be returned to it. It is planned to be consecrated in 2019, on the 800th anniversary from the founding of the Eparchy of Zahumlje, Herezgovina and the Littoral.

The Partisan Memorial Cemetery with its 661 tombstones is also highly ranked on the list of Mostar’s landmarks. It was built in 1965 in tribute of the fallen Mostar partisans designed by Bogdan Bogdanović.

Don’t miss the chance to visit the place of birth of one of the greatest poets of the Balkans, Aleksa Šantić.

The city which was respected and cherished around the world and which continues to shine as the years go by, is best depicted by the words of Dino Merlin’s Mostar song: “I will be gray-haired, I will be old, but my Mostar will be forever young…”

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MISTIČNA BOGOMOLJA

BLAGAJSKA TEKIJA

Izvanvremenski ukras predstavlja njena kupola sa staklima u različitim bojama, pretežno zvjezdastog oblika.

VOLJETI STVORENJA RADI STVORITELJA, PORUKA S KOJOM JE NAPRAVLJENA TEKIJA, DOVOLJNO GOVORI ZAŠTO JE ONA OSVOJILA SRCA SVIH SVJETSKIH PUTNIKA. TAJNA JE, NAIME, U LJUBAVI

Ovo je mjesto gdje derviši slave Boga. I to su toliko snažno radili da je Blagajska tekija jednog dana morala izrasti u mjesto koje će isto tako snažno privlačiti ljudske duše iz različitih dijelova svijeta.

Zbog toga nijedan upućen gost BiH neće propustiti priliku da je posjeti, neovisno o tome kojem vjerskom svjetonazoru pripadao.

DAR KOJI OSVAJA NA PRVI POGLED Mir žele svi, i to je ono što će se osjetiti već ulaskom u avliju mistične tekije za koju se pretpostavlja da je osnovana nedugo nakon uspostavljanja turske vlasti 1446. godine.

Ipak, prvi put spomenuta je u Putopisu Evlije Čelebije, koji je, navodi se, ovim mjestom prošao 1664. godine, a bilježi “da je mostarski mufti efendija podigao uz litice izvora Bune jednu tekiju halvetijskog reda u kojoj derviši vode prijateljske razgovore i naučne diskusije.”Njenoj posebnosti doprinosi i mjesto na kojem je ugledala život. To neponovljivo prirodno okruženje kod Vrela Bune, koja izvire ispod litice duge 200 metara, oduševilo je turskog sultana koji izdaje naredbu da započne gradnja tekije, danas jedne od ključnih turističkih atrakcija naše države.

MEZARI PREKRIVENI ZLATNOM ČOHOM Iz njenog historijata vidi se da je obnavljana tri puta, posljednji put 94

prije pet godina poprimajući nekadašnji izgled, te da su u njoj djelovali derviški redovi poput bektašija, halvetija i kaderija, dok je u novije vrijeme predvodi zamjenik šejha nakšibendijskog reda.

Tekija krije turbe s dva mezara prekrivena zlatnom čohom, a vjeruje se da su tu ukopani Sari Saltuk i Ačik-baša za koje se vežu zanimljive narodne pripovjetke. Prema uređenju enterijera, tekija podsjeća na tipične bosanske sobe iz prošlosti.

Izvanvremenki ukras predstavlja njena kupola sa staklima u različitim bojama, pretežno zvjezdastog oblika, koja kao da govori da svaki čovjek koji hoda pod plavim nebom sjaji na svoj način, u šarenoj Božijoj bašti, gdje svako ima priliku da se pokaže u svom najboljem izdanju.

Na vrelu dobre energije, s pogledom na Vrelo Bune, u životu sve postaje drugačije. Okrijepite se ovdje uz miris prave bosanske kafe, a ako ogladnite, glad ćete utišati u nekom od obližnjih restorana gdje se, pored ostalog, služe i specijaliteti ribe iz rijeke Bune.

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A MYSTICAL PLACE OF WORSHIP

THE BLAGAJ

Tekke

TO LOVE ALL BEINGS FOR THE SAKE OF THE CREATOR, THE MESSAGE BEHIND THE TEKKE, SPEAKS ABOUT WHY THE TEKKE WON THE HEARTS OF ALL WORLD TRAVELLERS. IT TURNS OUT THE SECRET IS IN LOVE.

This is where the dervishes glorify God. Here they had done it with such intensity and devotion that the Blagaj Tekke had to become a place which would attract people’s souls from different corners of the world so intensely. That is why no informed visitor would ever miss the opportunity to see it, regardless of their religious worldview.

tioned for the first time in Evlija Čelebija’s Travelogue (Putopis). He wrote that he passed through this area in 1664 and that “the Mostar’s Mufti Efendi built a tekke of the Khalwati order along the cliffs of the Buna River in which the dervishes lead friendly conversations and scientific discussions”.

A GIFT WHICH WINS PEOPLE OVER AT FIRST SIGHT

It is special also because of the location on which it came to life. This unique natural environment near the Spring of the Buna River (Vrelo Bune), which springs beneath a 200-meter long cliff, delighted a Turkish sultan who issued the order to begin the construction of the tekke. The tekke is one of the key tourist attractions of our country.

Everyone is in search of peace, and peace is the first thing that you feel upon entering the mystic tekke’s gardens. The tekke is deemed to have been founded shortly after the establishment of the Turkish rule in 1446. However, it was men96

GRAVES COVERED BY A THICK WOOLLEN CLOTH Its history tells us that it was reconstructed three times. The last time it was reconstructed occurred five years ago and it regained its former appearance. Dervish orders, such as the Bektashi, the Khalwati and the Qadiri order, had been active in the tekke before, and in the recent times, it has been led by the deputy Shaikh of the Naqshbandi order.

The tekke shelters a mausoleum with two graves covered by a thick woollen cloth, and it is believed that Sari Saltuk and Ačik-baša, who are the figures from interesting folk tales, were buried there.

The interior of the tekke reminds of the typical old Bosnian rooms

from times long gone. Its dome is a timeless ornament decorated with mostly star-shaped coloured glass. It seems to say that each man who walks under the blue sky shines in his own way, in a multicoloured God-created garden, in which each man has the opportunity to show the best version of himself.

At the spring of good energy, with a view of the Spring of the Buna River, everything in life becomes different. Awaken your senses with the invigorating aroma of a steaming cup of freshly brewed Bosnian coffee. Should you get hungry, you can satiate your hunger in one of the neighbouring restaurants offering, among other things, specialties made of fish from the Buna River.

Its dome is a timeless ornament decorated with mostly star-shaped coloured glass.

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KOLUMNA O MOSTARU

MOSTARSKA ČETIRI

godišnja doba

KAO “SLUČAJNO” PRVA KARIKA U LANCU MOJIH TERSLI PRIČA ZA GLAVNOG JUNAKA IMALA JE MOSTAR. I JOŠ “SLUČAJNIJE” PRIČA O MOSTARU, NEKADA SIMBOLU BRATSTVA I JEDINSTVA, LJUBAVI I CRVENILA, NAPISANA JE U VRIJEME PRAZNIKA RADA Piše: VEDRAN JAKUPOVIĆ

ostalih bh. mahala, u ravnom, duž obala Neretve. Od mahala, uz Liska ulicu, prelijepi austrijski dio, od Rondoa, parka i Stare gimnazije, sve do Radobolje, gdje je, kako legenda kaže, Zuko Džumhur, sjedeći u kafani, tražio od konobara da promijeni muziku. Konobar je potom zavrnuo nogavice, ušao u rijeku i promijenio položaj kamenja u Radobolji.

Duga aleja vodi do Podhuma, jedine mostarske mahale koja ulazi u brdo. Na sjevernom ulazu u grad primjetne su plantaže voća, vinogradi. Ista lijepa slika i na južnom izlazu, prema Blagaju. Zemlja ukradena od kamena. Lavanda čini polje uz aerodrom posebno ljubičastim.

Kult vožnje bicikla Kad malo bolje razmislim, dobro je što ovu kotlinu vežu za užegli kamen. Dobro je da ga vežu za onu kapljicu znoja koja stoji na čelu i ne ide, jer ne može nikuda. Čak i ona mora da se sunča.

Bolje je da ga vežu za vrelinu, nego za mostarsku zimu. Kad ono sjever prođe kroz sve slojeve odjeće i tijela – do kosti, ili kad bez prestanka lije mostarska kiša.

Nigdje nisam hodao “mokrijih” nogu kao u Mostaru.

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oj doživljaj Mostara nije i ne može biti objektivan. Pola mene je iz ovog grada, živio sam i dobra i manje dobra vremena u Mostaru, i uz njega, pregledao sve “predratne James Bondove” uz spuštene roletne na + 45 u hladu. Popio sam i litre Cocte na Rondou i uspješno se borio s majonezom, koja se ovdje kašikom nanosi na pizzu.

Zemlja ukradena od kamena Maj u Mostaru, a bezbeli i u drugim gradovima, najljepši je mjesec. Svake godine, drugu subotu 98

maja, Blagaj ugosti veliki broj muslimanskih vjernika na danima mevluda i zikra. Jedna lijepa vjerska tradicija “začini” se neopisivim događajem. Neopisivo je jedina adekvatna riječ, jer ko to ne doživi, ništa nije ni doživio. Ugostitelji se spremaju na sva zvona, građevinski radovi na štandovima su dovršeni, a usluga će ih pratiti u stopu. Blagaj postane centar Bosne, a i Hercegovine.

A Mostar ima Stari grad na listi UNESCO-a, pa se nastavlja na mahale, koje su, za razliku od

Da nije vreline, ne bi u Mostaru bilo ni kulta vožnje bicikla. I mlado i staro, a posebno staro ne silazi s bicikla. Kad više ne može da vozi, znači da je vakat da legne i dočeka Azraila. A u Mostaru i Azrail uspori. Ubi vrućina.

A TRIBUTE TO MOSTARU

MOSTAR’S

Four seasons

AS IF BY CHANCE, THE FIRST LINK IN A CHAIN OF MY WHIMSICAL STORIES HAD MOSTAR AS ITS PROTAGONIST. AND AS IF BY AN EVEN GREATER CHANCE, THE STORY ABOUT MOSTAR, ONCE THE SYMBOL OF FRATERNITY AND UNITY, LOVE AND REDNESS, WAS WRITTEN ON THE LABOR DAY. Written by: VEDRAN JAKUPOVIĆ

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y experience of Mostar is not and cannot be an objective one. I am half from this city, I have seen both good and less good times in Mostar, and along with it I watched all the ‘’pre-war James Bonds’’ with pulled down roller shutters at +45°C in shade. I also drank liters of Cocta on Rondo square and successfully battled with the mayonnaise which is spread here with a spoon onto a pizza.

A land stolen from the stone May in Mostar, and most probably in other towns as well, is the most beautiful of months.

Every year, on the second Saturday of May, Blagaj is a host to a great number of Muslim believers during the days of Mawlid celebration and Dhikr. One beautiful religious tradition is ‘’spiced up’’ with an indescribable event. Indescribable is the only appropriate word because those who don’t experience it, haven’t experienced anything yet.

Restaurant owners are preparing for it in every possible way, construction works on the stands are completed and the service follows the believers closely. It is the time when Blagaj becomes the center of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

And Mostar for its part has its Old town (Stari grad) on the UNESCO list; the Old town morphs into mahala, a Turkish word for neighbourhood. They, unlike other mahals, are in flat parts of the town, along the Neretva banks. The mahala continue, up the Liska street, into the beautiful Austro-Hungarian part of the town which starts from the Rondo and spreads across the park and the Old Gymnasium, all the way to the Radoblja river, where legend says Zuko Džumhur was sitting in a café and asked a waiter to change the music. Upon hearing that, the waiter rolled up his pants, got into the river and changed the position of the stones in the Radoblja.

A long alley leads to Podhum, the only Mostar’s mahala which continues up a hill.

At the town’s north entrance one can see orchards and vineyards.

The same beautiful scenery can be encountered at the south exit, in the direction of Blagaj—a land stolen from the stone. The lavender colors the field along the airport an intense kind of violet.

The bicycle riding cult On second thought, it is good that this valley is associated with the red hot stone. It is good it is associated

with that one drop of sweat obstinately standing on the forehead and not going away since it has nowhere to go. Even it has to bask in the sun.

It is better that it be associated with the heat of the summer than with the Mostar’s winter; it is the time when the brisk north wind reaches through all the layers of one’s clothes and body up to the bone, or when Mostar’s rain falls incessantly.

Nowhere have my legs been as wet as they were in Mostar.

Were it not for the summer heat, the bicycle riding cult would have been non-existent in Mostar.

Both young and old, and especially the old, are not coming off of their bicycles. Once they can no longer ride, it means the time has come for them to lie down and wait for Azrael, the Angel of Death. And even Azrael has to slow down a bit in Mostar because a killing heat.

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Jahanje konja za

potpuno opuštanje

Konjički klubovi u BanjOJ luci

Horseback Riding for Complete Relaxation

Konjički klub „Paddock“

Piše: DAŠA GAJIĆ

U POSLJEDNJIH NEKOLIKO GODINA KONJIČKI SPORT POSTAO JE VEOMA POPULARAN U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI, PA TAKO I U GRADU NA VRBASU. DANAS U BANJOJ LUCI POSTOJE DVA KONJIČKA KLUBA: KK “PADDOCK” I KK “ČOKORSKA POLJA”

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JAHANJE SE NEKADA SMATRALO VITEŠKOM DISCIPLINOM I BILA JE PRIVILEGIJA PRINČEVA I PLEMSTVA, NO U NOVIJE VRIJEME JAHANJE POSTAJE SPORT KOJI VOLE I DJECA I ODRASLI. UZJAHATI KONJA I OTISNUTI SE U PRIRODU, ZABORAVITI NA OBAVEZE I STRES, OSLOBODITI UM - POSTAJE JEDINSTVENI RECEPT ZA OKREPLJENJE DUHA I TIJELA SAVREMENOG ČOVJEKA DANAŠNJICE. HORSEBACK RIDING WAS ONCE CONSIDERED A KNIGHTLY DISCIPLINE AND WAS THE PRIVILEGE OF PRINCES AND NOBILITY, BUT IN RECENT TIMES RIDING BECAME A SPORT BELOVED BOTH BY CHILDREN AND ADULTS.TO MOUNT A HORSE AND SET OFF INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE, TO FORGET THE RESPONSIBILITIES AND STRESS, TO FREE UP THE MIND – IS BECOMING A UNIQUE RECIPE TO REFRESH THE BODY AND SOUL OF THE MODERN MAN OF TODAY. 100

se organizovano uz angažovanost kompletnog stručnog tima bavi terapijskim jahanjem, aktivnostima s konjem i oko konja. Zbog neposjedovanja sopstvene infrastrukture, za aktivnosti terapijskog jahanja, potrebnu infrastrukturu iznajmljujemo od Konjičkog kluba “Čokorska polja”, gdje trenutno sprovodimo svoje aktivnosti.“

ahanje ima višestruk utjecaj na zdravlje, te se navodi kako jedna minuta jahanja ima učinak kao da ste napravili 90 samostalnih koraka. Utječe na povećanje motoričkih funkcija, povišen nivo pokretljivosti zglobova, jača kardiovaskularni sistem, a vrijeme provedeno na otvorenom i uživanje u svježem zraku smatra se neprocjenjivim za oslobađanje od stresa. Stoga ne treba odlagati odlazak u jednu od najbližih ergela koje se obično nalaze u živopisnom krajoliku, daleko od buke i gradske vreve.

Konjički klub “Čokorska polja“ Konjički klub “Čokorska polja“ postoji od 2009. godine i nalazi se na istoimenoj lokaciji, 10-ak kilometara od centra Banje Luke.

U svojoj ponudi imaju školu jahanja, sportsko jahanje, terensko jahanje, obuku i trening konja, šetnju na poniju, kao i pansion za privatne konje. Njihova vrata su otvorena svakim danom (osim ponedjeljka) od 09h do 20h.Pored rekreativnog jahanja, sve više se govori o terapijskom jahanju. Slavica Kecman, dipl. fizioterapeut i voditeljica terapijskg jahanja objasnila je suštinu i značaj terapijskog jahanja: “Terapijsko jahanje je upotreba konja i aktivnosti orijentisanih prema konjima u svrhu postizanja različitih terapijskih ciljeva: fizičkih, emocionalnih, kognitivnih itd. Brojne su prednosti ovakvog vida terapije, jer se njome postiže kontrola držanja tijela i ravnoteže, poboljšanje cirkulacije, simetrija pokreta, te normalizacija mišićnog tonusa.“ U našem razgovoru Kecman je još istakla: “SO ‘Energija života’ je jedina organizacija u Republici Srpskoj koja

Konjički klub “Paddock“ nalazi se u prirodnom ambijentu na privatnom posjedu veličine 6.000 m², u mjestu Barlovci, 13 kilometara od centra Banje Luke. KK “Paddock“ nudi školu jahanja, terensko i sportsko jahanje, obuku i trening konja, pansion za konje itd. KK “Paddock“ je u proteklih sedam godina pored škole jahanja, organizovao brojna takmičenja, a njegovi članovi i članice su učestvovali na domaćim i inostranim takmičenjima gdje su postigli odlične rezultate. Ovaj klub je zatvorenog tipa (samo za članove i vlasnike konja). Za širu javnost otvoren je samo nedjeljom od 10h do 13h.

Osnivačica KK “Paddock“ i licencirana trenerica, Katarina Jovanović, za naše čitaoce govori više o aktivnostima ovog kluba: “KK ‘Paddock‘ osnovan je 2010. godine, kao sportski klub s ciljem promovisanja, omasovljenja i popularizacije konjičkog sporta, ali i vraćanja tradicije konjičkog sporta Banjoj Luci. Konjički sport je olimpijski sport u tri discipline, a mi se bavimo jednom od njih, dresurnim jahanjem. U svom radu promovišemo i ostale discipline konjičkog sporta. Prvi smo u Republici Srpskoj organizovali takmičenje u daljinskom jahanju, a ove godine po prvi put u Bosni i Hercegovini organizujemo takmičenje u zaprežnom sportu i bit će međunarodnog karaktera.“ Ukoliko volite prirodu i životinje, a još uvijek niste pronašli idealnu rekreaciju za vas, naša preporuka je da se već ovog ljeta upišete u školu jahanja i time unaprijedite svoje fizičko i mentalno zdravlje.

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orseback riding has multiple beneficial effects on health, and it is said that one minute of riding has the equal effect of taking 90 individual steps. It improves motor functions, increases the level of joint mobility, strengthens the cardiovascular system, and the time spent outdoors enjoying the fresh air is considered invaluable for stress relief.

Therefore, we should not delay going to one of the closest horse farms that are commonly found in the picturesque landscape, far from the noise and city bustle.

Equestrian Club “Čokorska Fields“ Equestrian club “Čokorska Fields“ has been in existence since 2009 and is located on the site of the same name, some 10 kilometers away from Banja Luka centre. Their services include a riding school, sports riding, trail riding, horse training, pony horse walks, as well as board for privately-owned horses. Their doors are open every day (except Monday) from 09 a.m. to 08 p.m.

EquestrianClubs in Banja Luka

IN RECENT YEARS THE EQUESTRIAN SPORT HAS BECOME VERY POPULAR IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, THUS ALSO IN THE CITY ON THE VRBAS, AND TODAY IN BANJA LUKA THERE ARE TWO EQUESTRIAN CLUBS: EC “PADDOCK” AND EC “ČOKORSKA FIELDS” Written by: DAŠA GAJIĆ 102

In addition to recreational riding, therapeutic riding is gaining in popularity. Slavica Kecman, physiotherapist and head instructor of therapeutic riding, explained the essence and significance of therapeutic riding: “Therapeutic riding is the use of horses and activities oriented toward the horses in order to achieve different therapeutic goals: physical, emotional, cognitive etc. There are many advantages of this type of therapy, because it achieves the control of posture and balance, improves circulation, creates symmetry of movement and normalisation of muscle tone.“ In our conversation Kecman also stressed: ”SO ‘Energy of life’ is the only organisation in Republika Srpska which, in an organised fashion, with the involvement of the

entire professional team, engages in therapeutic riding, activities with horses and surrounding horses.

Due to the lack of our own infrastructure for therapeutic horseback riding activities, we rent the required infrastructure from Equestrian club “Čokorska Fields”, where we currently conduct our activities.“

Equestrian Club “Paddock“ Equestrian club “Paddock“ is located in a natural setting on private property the size of 6,000 m², in Barlovci, 13 kilometers from the centre of Banja Luka.

EC “Paddock“ offers a riding school, sports and trail riding, horse training, board for horses etc. In the past seven years, EC “Paddock“ has, in addition to the riding school, organised a number of competitions and their members have participated in national and international competitions where they achieved great results. This club is for members and owners of horses only. It is open for the general public only on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Founder of EC “Paddock” and licensed instructor, Katarina Jovanović, talks more about the activities of the

club for our readers: “EC Paddock was founded in 2010 as a sports club with the aim of promoting and popularising the equestrian sports, but also to restore the tradition of equestrian sports in Banja Luka. Equestrian sports are Olympic sports in three disciplines, and we deal with one of them, dressage.

In our work, we also promote other disciplines of equestrian sports. We were the first in Republika Srpska to organise a competition in long-distance riding, and this year for the first time in Bosnia and Herzegovina we are organising a competition in the horse-drawn sport which will be international in character.“

If you love nature and animals, but still have not found the ideal recreation for you, our recommendation is to enroll in a riding school this summer, and thus improve your physical and mental health.

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REMEK DJELO PRIRODE

Pješčane piramide kod Foče SAMO DEVET KILOMETARA OD FOČE, U MJESTU PIRIN DO, IZRONIO JE JEDINSTVENI PRIRODNI FENOMEN – PJEŠČANE PIRAMIDE. NASTAJALE SU DUGI NIZ GODINA EROZIJOM TLA I POD UTICAJEM AGRESIVNE SPREGE MRAZEVA, LJETNIH VRUĆINA, KIŠA I JAKIH VJETROVA FOTO: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ

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reko 200 godina stare piramide, pokraj starog puta koji je nekada povezivao Foču i Sarajevo, tek prije nekoliko godina probudile su interesovanje kako domicilnog stanovništva tako i sve više stranih turista. Izbrazdani pješčani stubovi uzdižu se iz svojih širokih temelja i sužavaju prema vrhu te na taj način čine izvanrednu geomorfološku rijetkost na ovim prostorima. Proces erozije traje i danas, te suprotno očekivanjima, one ne nestaju već rastu. Za sada dosežu visinu do 20 m.

“Bosanski Colorado“ Oni koji su posjetili ovaj kraj uvjerili su se da je riječ o nesvakidašnjoj ljepoti. Sličan prirodni fenomen javlja se i u drugim krajevima svijeta, tako da mnogi Pješćane piramide kod Foče nazivaju “Bosanski Colorado” jer izgledom podsjećaju na one u Coloradu u Sjedinjenim Američkim Državama. Zapravo, teško ih je uporediti, drugačije su i veličinom i sastavom, a ono što ih još izdvaja i čini privlačnijim jeste zelenilo koje ih okružuje. Popnete li se na piramide i pogledate li naokolo - nepregledno zelenilo, čarobne visoravni i planinski vrhovi ostavit će vas bez daha.

Iako nedovoljno promovisane, pješčane piramide iz godine u godinu bilježe sve više posjetilaca.

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BICIKLISTIČKA STAZA DUGA 20 KM Nedavno je završeno markiranje biciklističke staze duge 20 km, koja povezuje grad Foču s Piramidama. Postavljeno je preko dvadeset putokaza koji neće dopustiti onima koji su prvi put ovdje da odu u pogrešnom pravcu. Nažalost, posjetioci nemaju priliku na ovom mjestu napraviti predah i osvježiti se, jer ugostiteljski objekti još nisu izgrađeni.

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resemble the ones in Colorado in the United States. In fact, they are difficult to compare, as they are different in size and composition, and what makes them more attractive and stand out more is the greenery that surrounds them. If you climb the pyramids and look around – the endless green, magical plateaus and mountain peaks will leave you breathless. Although not sufficiently promoted, the sand pyramids have more and more visitors each year.

A MASTERPIECE OF NATURE

Sand pyramids near Foča

ONLY NINE KILOMETERS FROM FOČA, IN PIRIN DO, THERE IS A UNIQUE NATURAL PHENOMENON - SAND PYRAMIDS.THEY WERE FORMED BY MANY YEARS OF SOIL EROSION AND THE JOINT INFLUENCE OF AGGRESSIVE FROST, SUMMER HEAT, RAIN AND STRONG WINDS PHOTO: SAMIR ZAHIROVIĆ

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yramids that are over 200 years old, sited by the old road that once connected Foča and Sarajevo, have only in recent years awakened the interest of both the local population and foreign tourists whose number is increasing.

Furrowed sand columns rise from their broad foundations and narrow towards the top, and thus form an extraordinary geomorphological rarity in this region. The process of erosion continues today, and, contrary to expectations, the columns do not disappear but grow. For now they reach a height of up to 20 m.

“Bosnian Colorado“ Those who have visited this place could say that they have come across unusual beauty. A similar natural phenomenon occurs in other parts of the world, so many call the sand pyramids near Foča “Bosnian Colorado”, because they

20 KM OF CYCLING TRAIL The marking of a 20 km cycling trail was recently completed, connecting the town of Foča with the pyramids. Over twenty signposts were put up to ensure that those who are here for the first time will not go in the wrong direction. Unfortunately, visitors still don’t have the opportunity to stop at this point to make a break and freshen up, because catering facilities have not been built yet.

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U FRANCUSKOJ PRIJESTOLNICI ŽIVI VEĆ 22 GODINE, NO U NJEMU I DANAS STANUJE DUH SARAJEVA. ZATO MILOMIR RADO PREPRIČAVA SARAJEVSKE ZGODE PRIJATELJIMA FRANCUZIMA OD KOJIH MNOGI MAŠTAJU DA DOPUTUJU S NJIM I VIDE MJESTO NJEGOVE MLADOSTI

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ada je Milomir Kovačević Strašni prvi put godinama iza rata stigao u svoje Sarajevo iz Pariza, onaj ko je bio u njegovom društvu svjedočio je da su njega ljudi skoro svakog časa pozdravljali na ulici. Tu, na ulici, viđali su ga tokom najtežih dana opsade grada s fotoaparatom u ruci snimajući toliko značajnih momenata iz sarajevske svakodnevnice da se njegov doprinos u njenom bilježenju danas smatra nemjerljivim i nezaboravnim.

NOĆNI PARIZ MILOMIR KOVAČEVIĆ STRAŠNI, KULTNI FOTOGRAF

MOJ ŽIVOT U

PARIZU Piše: ELMA ZEĆO

Već 22 godine naš renomirani fotograf živi u Parizu. U gradu svjetlosti, kako ga nazivaju, s kojom se voli poigravati posebno noću, doživio je zbog velike predanosti radu da tragove svoje umjetnosti ugleda razasute posvuda. Bio je to veličanstven trenutak u njegovoj karijeri kada su fotografije noćnog Louvrea osvanule na plakatima kako u čuvenom muzeju tako i na ulicama grada, razglednicama, u metrou... Naprosto su ih Parižani svugdje mogli vidjeti, a svako srce lišeno zavisti priznat će da to samo rijetkima polazi za rukom. Istinskim velikanima.

“Sam način života u Parizu vodi me ka onome što ću snimati. Kada sam

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tek došao iz ratnog mraka 1995., naravno, nisam nikog znao i dosta sam vremena provodio lutajući po gradu. Veoma često i noću, upoznavajući ga na taj način. U to vrijeme jedino sam poznavao bogatu prošlost Pariza i svaki njegov spomenik.

Nije da sam je tražio, ali inspiraciju za rad odjednom sam počeo osjećati. Već tada počinjem snimati noćni Pariz, ali istovremeno se nastavljam baviti i segmentima rada iz Sarajeva, gdje sam često snimao naša groblja.

To mi je bila neka spona. Osjećao sam potrebu da to radim, pa sam i tamo snimao Père Lachaise kao i neka druga groblja. Seriju tih slika nikada nisam izlagao i vjerovatno ću se njoj posvetiti u skorijoj budućnosti”, prisjeća se Milomir svojih početaka u Parizu, gdje je njegova prva ozbiljna serija fotografija bila posvećena šahistima. S razlogom.

“Jedina stvar koja me je u početku vezala za naše prostore bili su ljudi koje sam vidio kako vani igraju šaha. Tada još bez posla, novca, dolazio bih i posmatrao njihovu igru, sve dok me jednom nije za ruku povukao Pepito da i ja zaigram. Bio sam dobar, a ko pobjeđuje, taj i ostaje. Odjednom oni postadoše moji prijatelji. I čim sam bio u mogućnosti napravio sam njihove portrete predstavljene na

izložbi kojoj sam dao naziv Svi smo jedna porodica.”

O početku pariškog poglavlja života Milomir također kaže: “Prihvatio sam svoju realnost i krenuo dalje s onim što imam.

Nisam neko ko čeka da mu nešto dođe, nego idem i stvaram. A čim se čovjek kreće i radi, on inspiriše ljude, pa se rađaju i nove ideje.”

KOD JOSETTE Danas Milomir snima sve što je u okruženju njegovog života, a Pariz je takav grad da čovjek, kaže nam, može danima i noćima šetati i fotografisati imajući osjećaj kao da prolazi kroz historiju civilizacije.

Svi njegovi radovi bili su zapaženi, a među njima i ciklus slika Sarajevo u srcu Pariza, koju je uradio sa Sarajlijama koji tamo žive.

Ovisno za koji svoj projekat fotografiše, priprema za izlazak na teren zahtijeva uvijek drugačije uslove, no on je toliko ušao u perfekciju da mu ni sitnice ne promiču. Prije podne pretežno je u mraku, i tada radi svoje fotografije, dok noću izlazi i snima, najviše oko Picassovog muzeja, dok mu noćni Pariz najzanimljiviji postaje u vrije109

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

MILOMIR KOVAČEVIĆ STRAŠNI, KULTNI FOTOGRAF

MY LIFE IN

PARIS me novogodišnjih praznika kada je grad izuzetno lijepo okićen.

“Važnu ulogu igra i jedna moja kafanica, gdje se družim s prijateljima. Zovemo je Kod Josette, i tu su, uglavnom, Francuzi koji sanjaju da sa mnom dođu ovdje i prošetaju Sarajevom. Imamo iste manire, navečer se nalazimo na našem mjestu, šalimo, nadopunjujemo međusobno, a nekad im prepričavam i zanimljive sarajevske priče.

Francuzi su veoma obrazovan narod. Oni znaju i dobro jesti, i piti, i zezati se, i raditi. Živim s njima i znam da se na svoje prijatelje mogu osloniti uvijek – bez obzira šta da mi u životu zatreba. U našoj kafanici također radim portrete.

Snimio sam već 600, 700 ljudi, i to će isto jednom biti lijepa izložba, ali na tome još uvijek radim.”

Iako je istovremeno angažovan na različitim serijama fotografija, teško mu je prognozirati kojom temom će se baviti njegova sljedeća izložba.

“Meni je najvažnije da svaku priču najprije završim u svojim mislima, jer samo tako mogu krenuti dalje”, ističe u razgovoru Milomir, siguran da će se jednog skorog pariškog jutra probuditi i znati šta će biti njegovo novo umjetničko ostvarenje.

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HE HAS BEEN LIVING IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL FOR 22 YEARS, BUT THE SPIRIT OF SARAJEVO STILL RESIDES WITHIN HIM. THAT IS WHY MILOMIR IS GLAD TO RECOUNT HIS SARAJEVO ANECDOTES TO HIS FRENCH FRIENDS. MANY OF THEM DREAM OF VISITING SARAJEVO WITH HIM AND EXPERIENCING THE PLACE WHERE HE SPENT HIS YOUTH Written by: ELMA ZEĆO

Y

ears after the war, when Milomir Kovačević Strašni came to his Sarajevo from Paris for the first time, those who were with him were able to see that people were constantly greeting him on the street.

There, on the street, they used to see him take photographs during the most difficult days of the siege of Sarajevo. With a camera in his hand, he would record so many important moments of everyday life and his contribution in recording them cannot be measured or forgotten.

PARIS BY NIGHT Our renowned photographer has been living in Paris for 22 years.

In the City of Light, as it is called, with which he likes to play especially at night, he has lived to see the traces of his art all around the

city as the result of his dedication.

When his photos of the Louvre by night saw the light of day in the famous museum, on the streets of Paris, on postcards and in the metro, it was the highlight of his career, a magnificent moment.

The Parisiens could see them everywhere, and anyone envy-free will admit that only a few people can do that—the great ones.

“The way people live in Paris leads me to the things I photograph.

When I first came to Paris from the darkness of war in 1995, I didn’t know anyone and I spent a lot of time wandering around the city, very often at night, and I got to know it that way. At the time, I was only familiar with the city’s rich history and all its monuments. I

wasn’t looking for it or anything, but suddenly started feeling inspired to take photos. I started to take photos of Paris by night, but I also kept working on the segments of my Sarajevo photos at the same time. I often took photos of our cemeteries in Sarajevo. It was kind of a link.

I felt the need to do it, so I photographed the Père Lachaise Cemetery and some other cemeteries.

I never exhibited a series of those photos, but I’ll probably devote my time to it in the near future,” Milan recalls his Paris beginnings. His first serious series of photographs in Paris were dedicated to chess players.

There was a reason behind it.

“The only thing that initially linked me to this region were the people whom I saw playing check outside.

Jobless and broke, I would come there and watch them play until Pepito once grabbed me by the hand and told me to join them. I was good, and the one who wins also stays. Suddenly they became my friends. And as soon as I had the chance, I took their portraits and presented them in an exhibition titled We are all one family.”

In regards to the beginning of his Parisian life chapter, Milomir also says: “I accepted my reality and moved on with what I’ve got. I am not one of those people waiting for things to come to them, but I go and create.

And as soon as a person is moving and creating, they inspire people and that’s when new ideas also come to life.”

AT JOSETTE‘S Nowadays Milomir records everything about his life, and Paris is such a city, he says, that one can stroll for days and nights and take photos all the while having the impression that one is passing through the history of civilisation. All his works have drawn quite a lot of attention, and among them is also the cycle of

photographs Sarajevo in the heart of Paris, which he did together with the Sarajevans living there.

Preparing for fieldwork always requires different conditions depending on the project he is working on; however, he perfected his craft so much that he even notices the tiniest details. The time before noon he spends mostly in the dark developing his photos, whereas by night he goes out and takes photos, mostly around Picasso’s Museum.

However, he finds Paris by night to be the most interesting during New Year’s celebrations when the city is beautifully decorated.

“One of my cafés where I hang out with my friends is also important to me. We call it At Josette’s, and it is frequented mostly by the French who dream of coming with me here and taking a stroll in Sarajevo. We have the same manners, we meet at night at our spot, we make jokes, we complement each other, and sometimes I retell them interesting Sarajevo stories. The French are very educated people. They know both how to eat well and drink well and make jokes and work. I live with them and I know that I can always rely to my friends– regardless of what I might need in life. In our café I also take portraits. I’ve already took photos of 600, 700 people, and one day it will make for a nice exhibition, but I’m still working on it.”

Although he works on different series of photographs at the same time, it is hard for him to tell which topic he is going to choose for his next exhibition.

“The most important thing for me is to first finish each story in my mind, because it is the only way I can move on”, points out Milomir, quite sure that on one Parisian morning he will wake up and know what his next piece of art is going to be.

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ILMA KAZAZIĆ

LAVICA

NA SKIJAMA DJEVOJKA KOJA MOŽE SVE “Moja najveća motivacija za uspjeh su mladi ljudi koje želim podstaknuti da se bore za ono što žele i da osobe s invaliditetom pronađu nešto čime se mogu baviti i da to prilagode sebi. Tako svi možemo postati zadovoljniji ljudi, važni i uspješni članovi društva”, kaže 19-godišnja Ilma, koja se predano bavi alpskim skijanjem.

Piše: ELMA ZEĆO

V

eć početkom godine okitila se novim medaljama, srebrenom i dvije bronzane, osvojene na Evropa Cup-ovima održanim u Švicarskoj i Hrvatskoj.

U oblasti alpskog skijanja za osobe s invaliditetom prvi je bh. takmičar koji je postigao normu za naredne paraolimpijske igre 2018.

Takmičarski duh Ilimina sportska priča krenula je s njenih desetak godina. Rođena s cerebralnom paralizom, njeni roditelji željeli su učiniti sve da joj osiguraju maksimalno funkcionalan život. Ključnu ulogu odigrao je otac.

“Na mene je prenosio svoju ljubav prema skijanju još od pete godine – s deset je već Bjelašnica bila moja. Tata nije želio da se osjećam drugačijom od druge djece. Mislio je da bi mogao doći dan kada će svo 112

dim u teretani uz kondicionog trenera Muju Volodera, a, naravno, pratim i odgovarajući program ishrane. Ljeto ću iskoristiti za skijaške pripreme na glečerima zajedno s mojim novim trenerom Leonom Svetlinom. Želim postići dobar rezultat na velikom takmičenju”, kaže Ilma, koja se zbog dijagnoze cerebralne paralize ne osjeća uskraćenom u svom životu.

“Zahvaljujući otvorenoj komunikaciji mojih roditelja na sebe sam gledala kao na drugu djecu, kao da nemam ništa. Oni su me naučili da se ne osjećam manje vrijednom i da nemam kompleksa. Ne volim riječ invalid, jer znači nesposoban. Niko od osoba s invaliditetom nije nesposoban, nego samo prilagođava sebi ono što radi. Možda se neko ne može popeti stepenicama na naredni sprat, ali će doći liftom, stoga je i on došao do cilja. I on je uspio.”

Ilma je pametna i vrijedna djevojka.

Pred njom je budućnost u kojoj se, osim na polju alpskog skijanja, također želi dokazivati u domenu informatike, koju studira.

moje društvo skijati, a ja neću moći.

Međutim, zanimljivo je da dosta mojih prijatelja ne zna skijati i da sam ja ta koja je često u potrazi za onima koji bi mogli poći na planinu”, govori kroz osmijeh.

Ilma je uvijek bila aktivna: bavila se kao djevojčica plivanjem, ritmičkom gimnastikom, a završila je i osnovnu muzičku školu u kojoj je svirala klavir. Želju za takmičarskim skijanjem u njoj je probudio preminuli profesor Senad Turković.

“Zahvaljujući na međunarodnoj skijaškoj sceni poštovanom profesoru Turkoviću, koji je bio otac alpskog skijanja u BiH, ušla sam u top 20 skijašica svijeta.”

Svaki čovjek je sposoban!

Sada su joj cilj Olimpijske igre u Koreji 2018. za koje uskoro trebaju početi intenzivne pripreme.

“Kada nema snijega, vrijeme provo113

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

“MY BIGGEST MOTIVATION FOR SUCCESS ARE THE YOUNG PEOPLE THAT I WANT TO ENCOURAGE TO FIGHT FOR WHAT THEY WANT AND THAT PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES FIND SOMETHING THEY CAN DO AND THAT THEY ADJUST IT SO THAT IT FITS THEM. THAT’S HOW WE CAN ALL BECOME MORE SATISFIED PEOPLE, IMPORTANT AND SUCCESSFUL MEMBERS OF SOCIETY”, SAYS 19-YEAR-OLD ILMA, WHO IS COMMITTED TO ALPINE SKIING.

A

lready at the beginning of the year she was decorated with new medals, one silver and two bronzes, won in Europe Cups held in Switzerland and Croatia.

She is the first BH competitor who has achieved the norm for the next Paralympics in 2018, in the field of Alpine skiing for people with disabilities.

Competitive spirit ILMA KAZAZIĆ

LIONESS

ON SKIS

A GIRL WHO CAN DO ANYTHING Written by: ELMA ZEĆO 114

Ilma’s sports story began when she was about ten years old. As she was born with cerebral palsy, her parents wanted to do everything to ensure that she gets a functional life at its maximum. The father played a key role.

“He has been transferring his love of skiing onto me since I was five - at ten, Bjelašnica was already mine. Dad did not want me to feel different from other children. He thought the day might come when all my friends would ski, and I will not be able to. However, it is interesting that many of my friends do not know how to ski and that I am the one who is often looking for those who could go to the mountains “,

she says through the smile.

Ilma was always active: as a young girl she was engaged in swimming, rhythmic gymnastics, and she also graduated from primary music school where she played the piano.

The desire for competition skiing was awakened in her by the deceased professor Senad Turković.

with my new coach Leon Svetlina. I want to achieve a good result in a big competition”, says Ilma, who is not feeling deprived in her life because of the diagnosis of cerebral palsy.

Her next goal are the 2018 Olympics in Korea, for which intensive preparations are about to start soon.

“Thanks to the open communication that I have with my parents, I always looked at myself as just another child with no problems. They taught me not to feel less valuable and to have no complexes. I do not like the word „invalid“ because it means incapable. No disabled person is incapable, they are just adjusting whatever they are doing to themselves. Maybe somebody cannot climb the stairs to the next floor, but they will come all the same using an elevator, so they have also come to the finish line.

Theye also succeeded”.

“When there is no snow, I spend my time in the gym with the conditioning coach Mujo Voloder, and, naturally, I follow the appropriate diet program. I will use the summer for ski training on the glaciers together

Ilma is a smart and hard working girl. Ahead of her is the future in which, besides the Alpine skiing, she also wants to prove herself in the domain of information technology, which she is studying.

“Thanks to Professor Turković who was well-respected at the international skiing scene and who was the father of Alpine skiing in BH, I entered the top 20 skiers in the world.”

Every person is capable!

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Gracije i vragolanke

iz Viteza

njima, upitali smo ga: “Sijamske mačke su vragolaste i temperamentne mace. Njihov plavi pogled nekim se ljudima doima čudnim, ali one su iznimno umiljate i lijepe. Volim reći da je perzijska mačka gospođa u mačijem svijetu.

Svaki pokret je graciozan i odmjeren.

Dok su još uvijek male, vole se igrati, ali već kada porastu pretvaraju se u životinjice koje nalikuju damama.

One čak paze kada hodaju po policama da nešto ne bi srušile”, objasnio je Željko za naš magazin.

Dodaje da su obje dobri kućni ljubimci, te da ne mora značiti da je teško održavati mačku dugog krzna, poput perzijske, kako ljudi obično misle, jer je dovoljno da je samo redovno češljate.

The Graces and Rogue

from Vitez

PREMA SVOJOJ PRIRODI, PERZIJSKA I SIJAMSKA MAČKA SUŠTA SU SUPROTNOST, ALI SVAKA IZUZETNA NA SVOJ NAČIN, ZNA TO NJIHOV UZGAJIVAČ IZ VITEZA, ŽELJKO GRABOVAC

BY THEIR NATURE, THE PERSIAN AND THE SIAMESE CAT ARE POLAR OPPOSITE, BUT EACH BREED IS DISTINCTLY SPECIAL IN ITS OWN WAY. THEIR BREEDER, ŽELJKO GRABOVAC FROM VITEZ, KNOWS IT

Piše: ELMA ZEĆO

Written by: ELMA ZEĆO

Podižući različite pasmine mačaka i pasa u ovom poslu Vitežanin Željko Grabovac već je proslavio punoljetstvo, a sve je, naravno, počelo iz ljubavi prema životinjama. Stoga nas ne čudi što mu veliki broj obaveza, kako nam kaže, koje ispunjavaju njegovu svakodnevnicu – rad u pet shopu i briga o skoro 30 pasa i deset mačaka, ne predstavlja problem, nego ih, naprotiv, doživljava kao mo116

tivaciju. Mačija legla odnedavno su ispunjena novim životnim radostima, mačićima koji su nedavno stigli na svijet, a riječ je o potomcima njegovih perzijskih i sijamskih mačaka.

Ranije je Željko bio poznat i po uzgoju jedne od najvećih mačijih pasmina – američke mačke maine coon, no sada su u njegovom fokusu samo, kako ih često oslovljava, perzijke i sijamke. A koja je razlika među

Život s mačkama ima svoje prednosti, a mnogi njihovi vlasnici potvrdit će da ih je dovoljno gledati u svom okruženju da biste osjetili sreću i zadovoljstvo.

Raising different cat and dog breeds, Željko Grabovac from Vitez has already celebrated eighteen years in this line of business, and it all began with his love for animals.

It is no wonder then that being responsible for numerous activities, he tells us, which make up most of his daily life—working in a pet shop and taking care of 30 dogs and ten cats—is not a problem for him; on the contrary, he thinks of these acti-

vities as his motivation. Cat broods have recently become filled with new joys of life: new-born kittens, the offspring of his Persian and Siamese cats. Previously, Željko was known as the man who raised one of the largest cat breeds, the American Maine coon, but nowadays he focuses only on, as he often addresses them, the Persians and Siamese. We asked him what the difference between them was, and he said: “The Sia-

mese cats are rogue and temperamental. Some people find their blue eyes odd, but they are exceptionally cuddly and beautiful. I like to say that the Persian cat is the lady of the cat world. Each step she makes is graceful and steady. When they are still young, the Siamese cats are playful, but as soon as they grow a little, they turn into animals which resemble ladies. Even as they walk on shelves, they are mindful of not toppling something down,” Željko explained for our magazine.He added that both breeds make good pets, and it does not necessarily mean that long-haired cats, such as the Persian cat, are difficult to maintain, as people tend to think; combing their hair regularly will suffice.

Living with cats has its advantages, and many a cat owner will agree that watching cats around you is enough to make you feel happy and content

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VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE / TIME FOR COOKING

Recepti za

SAVRŠEN ROŠTILJ

Recipes for the PERFECT BARBECUE

ROŠTILJ SA PRIJATELJIMA JE ZA MNOGE NAJBOLJI NAČIN DA PROVEDU UGODNE VEČERI NA OTVORENOM. OVAJ SPOJ DOBRE HRANE, VESELOG DRUŠTVA I PRIRODE OMILJENI SU VID RELAKSACIJE I ZABAVE MNOGIMA, PA STOGA DONOSIMO NEKE KORISNE SAVJETE KAKO BISTE ORGANIZOVALI PROLJETNU „AL FRESCO“ GOZBU...

BARBECUE WITH FRIENDS IS, FOR MANY, THE BEST WAY TO SPEND PLEASANT EVENINGS OUTDOORS. THIS COMBINATION OF GOOD FOOD, JOYFUL COMPANY AND NATURE IS A FAVORITE FORM OF RELAXATION AND ENTERTAINMENT TO MANY, SO HERE ARE SOME USEFUL TIPS HOW TO BEST ORGANIZE A SPRING “AL FRESCO” FEAST

Pripremila: SARA KRAJINA JAZVIĆ

Prepared by: SARA KRAJINA JAZVIĆ

Skewered lamb INGREDIENTS:

MALI SAVJETI ZA ROŠTILJ: Roštilj pozicionirajte u odnosu na vjetar, tako da dim puše u suprotnom smjeru od vaših gostiju

Lignje s roštilja

Ražnjići s janjetinom

SASTOJCI

SASTOJCI:

500 g lignji, 2 kašike sjeckanog kopra, 50 ml maslinovog ulja, 2 češnja bijelog luka, so, sok i ribana korica jednog limuna, 1 kašika soka od limete, kriške limete za dekoraciju

PRIPREMA: Lignje očistite, operite i posušite.

Razrežite ih po dužini i odvojite krakove. Pomiješajte maslinovo ulje, kopar, protisnuti bijeli luk, sok i ribanu koricu limuna. Dodajte sok od limete i narezane lignje.

Posolite i promiješajte pa ostavite da se marinira oko 3 sata. Nakon toga lignje izvadite iz marinade i pecite ih na dobro zagrijanom roštilju dok ne omekšaju i dobro ne porumene. Ukrasite kriškama limete i poslužite uz sezonsku salatu.

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800 g janjetine bez kosti, 150 ml maslinovog ulja, sok i ribana korica jednog limuna, 3 češnja bijelog luka, 1 kašika svježe sjeckane mente, biber, so, začin od povrća

PRIPREMA: Maslinovo ulje pomiješajte s limunovim sokom, koricom limuna, narezanim bijelim lukom, mentom, biberom i začinom od povrća. Sve zajedno usitnite u blenderu. Ovom marinadom prelijte janjetinu narezanu na kocke i pokrivenu ostavite stajati na sobnoj temperaturi oko 2 sata. Na svaki drveni štapić za ražnjiće nabodite 3-4 kocke marinirane janjetine. Rešetke za roštilj premažite uljem i dobro zagrijte te ispecite ražnjiće sa svake strane.

Meso na roštilju ne okrećite nožem ili viljuškom jer će vam svi sokovi iz mesa iscuriti. Koristite za to predviđene hvataljke.

Ako kobasice probodete viljuškom tokom roštiljanja, iz njih će iscuriti masnoća pa će biti manje masne, ali će vam istovremeno iscuriti i većina okusa.

Biftek je jedino meso koje smijete peći tako da ostane malo ružičasto u sredini, dok za sve ostalo meso vrijedi pravilo da ga dobro ispečete radi potencijalnih bakterija.

Meso će biti posebno ukusno ako ga premažete senfom i ostavite stajati u ulju i začinima. U marinadu možete staviti listiće kadulje ili mente, no uklonite ih prije stavljanja mesa na roštilj da ne zagore.

Grilled squid INGREDIENTS: 500 g of squid, 2 tbsp of chopped dill, 50 ml of olive oil, 2 cloves of garlic, salt, juice and grated lemon zest, 1 tbsp of lime juice, lime slices for decoration

PREPARATION: Clean, wash and dry the squid. Cut them lengthwise and remove the prongs. Mix olive oil, dill, crushed garlic, juice and grated lemon zest.

Add lime juice and chopped squid.

Add salt and stir, then leave to marinate for about 3 hours. Then take the squids out of the marinade and barbecue them on a well-heated grill until tender and well browned. Garnish with slices of lime and serve with seasonal salad.

800 g of lamb without bones, 150 ml of olive oil, juice and grated lemon zest, 3 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp of chopped fresh mint, pepper, salt, vegetable seasoning

PREPARATION:

Mix the olive oil with lemon juice, lemon rind, chopped garlic, mint, pepper and vegetable seasoning.

Mix it all together in a blender.

Pour the marinade over the diced lamb and leave covered to stand at a room temperature for about 2 hours. Stick 3-4 cubes of marinated lamb on each skewer. Brush the grill with oil and heat well, then barbecue the skewers on each side.

SMALL TIPS FOR THE BARBECUE: Position the barbecue in relation to the wind, so that the smoke is blowing in the opposite direction of your guests.

Do not turn the meat on the grill with the knife or fork because all the juices from the meat will trickle out. Use the intended barbecue grips instead.

If you pierce sausages with a fork during grilling, all the fat will seep out so it will be less fatty, but they will also lose most of their flavour.

Beef steak is the only meat that you can grill so that it remains a little pink in the middle, while for all the rest of the meat the rule is to grill it until well done due to the potential bacteria.

The meat will be especially tasty if you smother it with mustard and let it stand in oil and spices. You can add to the marinade the sage leaves or mint, but remove them before putting the meat on the grill to prevent them from burning.

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