SADRŽAJ 96 NOVOSTI 8 TEMA BROJA - TURSKA Most između istoka i zapada 24 Cihad Erginay, ambasador Republike Turske u BiH 26 Hiljadu i jedna istanbulska noć 32 KAPADOKIJA – Vulkanska misterija 36 KONJA - Grad blistave tradicije, arhitekture i čudesnih derviša 40 HRVANJE U ULJU - Spoj hrabrosti, spretnosti i snage 43 Soner Şahin, ataše za kulturu i turizam Ambasade Republike Turske 45 Obale turskog mora 46 Magija turske kuhinje 50 ZAVRTI GLOBUS Manje poznata svjetska čuda 60 Muzej dragulja Teheran 64 INTERVJU Zehrudin Isaković - Ne proizvodim nevolje i ne izazivam sudbinu 18 Amer Kapetanović - Što duži objektiv, to ste dalje od duše 52 KOLUMNA Vedran Jakupović - Hamam u mojoj mahali 76
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MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Sarajevo - Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog na Bistriku 72 Mostar - Tursko blago na Neretvi 94 Jajce – grad svjetlosti, kamena i vode 96 Tajne zmijanjskog veza 118 FOTOREPORTAŽA Amir Bašimamović Svojim fotografijama dovodim turiste u rodni grad 64 PREDSTAVLJAMO Vukov konak 78 Seosko gazdinstvo Čardaklije 86 Gdje odsjesti u kraljevskom gradu - „Turist 98“ i Hotel Plivsko jezero 92 Safari na rijeci Trebižat 98 Aida commerce –Mali korak za čistiju BiH 108 BUDIMO ZDRAVI Specijalna bolnica za ortopediju i opštu hirurgiju Dr. Nemec 122 VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE Indonezijska kuhinja – Goveđi Rendang 126
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CONTENT NEWS 8 COVER STORY -TURKEY Bridging East and West 24 Cihad Erginay, Ambassador of the Republic of Turkey in BiH 26 1001 Nights in Istanbul 32 Kapadokija - Vocanic mystery 36 Konya - The City of Splendid Tradition and Architecture and the Home of Magnificent Dervishes 40 Oil wrestling– Courage, Skill and Strength Combined 43 Mr. Soner Şahin, Cultural Attaché of the Embassy of the Republic of Turkey 45 The Turkish Riviera 46 Magic of Turkish Cuisine 50
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SPIN THE GLOBE Less Known Wonders of the World 60 National Jewellery Museum in Teheran 64 INTERVIEW Zehrudin Isaković - I do not cause trouble and do not tempt fate 18 Amer Kapetanović - The Bigger the Lens, the More Distant It Is from the Soul 52 COLUMN Vedran Jakupović – A Hammam Next Door 76
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MY WONDERFUL COUNTRY - BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Sarajevo - The Church of St. Anthony of Padua in Bistrik 72 Mostar - Turkish Treasure on Neretva 94 Jajce – Where to Stay in the Royal Town - „Turist 98“ and „Plivsko jezero“ Hotels 92 The Secret of Zmijanje Embroidery 118 PHOTO REPORT Amir Bašimamović I Take Photos to Bring Tourists into my Hometown 64 WE PRESENT In “Vukov Konak” Inn 78 Čardaklije Rural Estate 86 Trebižat River Safari 98 Where to Stay in the Royal Town - „Turist 98“ and Hotel „Plivsko jezero“ 92 Aida commerce – Small Step for Cleaner BIH 108
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BE HEALTHY Special Orthopaedics and General Surgery Hospital “Dr Nemec” 122 TIME FOR COOKING Indonesian kitchen – Beef Rendang 126
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I believe that people in Sweden are used to a functioning and fair system, which creates certain feeling of security and peace. In February, you met Saydyko Fedorova, an unorthodox artist from Siberia who plays a jaw harp? What do you remember about cooperation with her? Saydyko was a guest performer in Sarajevo, as a part of the visit of a large group of performers from countries which used to be a part of the Ottoman Empire. Her performance on the jaw harp was a new experience to me and I asked her for a couple of photos. Often, when I run into a person who is of interest to me, for whatever reason, I create an image in my mind of how I should portray that person on a photograph. The same happened with her. We went to the spring of the River Bosna and I captured several photos of her. Although I never travelled to Siberia, she brought Siberia to me. April and Goteborg again. Can you recall another spring in another corner of the planet? I enjoy spring wherever I am. Winter is not really my thing. What I need is the sunshine. I love spring somewhere at the coast, when it is still not too hot, but it is warm enough to sit outside and absorb the sunshine. Several years ago I started regularly attending Rovinj Photodays, a festival of photography which takes place in May and so far, it’s a big hit for me. The experience is great, even if it’s raining. You travel a lot. Have you ever experienced an unpleasant situation? Every passenger should have insurance coverage and should be well informed on necessary vaccination and prevention of infectious diseases, local customs and appropriate behaviour. Luckily for me, I have never
experienced anything unpleasant and I am generally not in the habit of getting myself into trouble. Sometimes, people are not clear about why I am taking their photograph and they wave at me to signal disagreement, which is OK. Airports are the places where I am always on a lookout for a good photo. A lot of glass surfaces, people, shapes and shades are very entertaining, so time passes fast as I wait to board my fl ight. Sometimes I get carried away, and I missed my fl ight twice as a result of that, which is everything but pleasant. What have you learned in Sri Lanka? I learned that I should definitely go again. It taught me that we attribute a lot of importance to material things and that we correlate our feeling of happiness with accomplishment of our consumers’ dreams. It would be a lie to claim that I was much different than that. Perhaps the best thing we can learn by travelling is that the world is so vast and diverse; that there are over 7 billion of us; that we are all the same, regardless of our external features. That helps one understand the absurdity of the infinite hate and
antagonism prevalent in primitive societies. What I would love to do every day of every year at any time and any season, is to travel to faraway destinations and get to know new people, new places and new cultures. I want to get to know life. What is your favourite street in Sarajevo, where you captured the best photos? When it comes to photography, I prefer small urban neighbourhoods with clusters of family houses, the so-called “mahala”. There is some kind of mystique about such places, people appear before you under the street light and swiftly disappear behind the corner. One must understand such neighbourhoods and their specific rhythm, the good and the bad about them. Stockholm Museum of Photography, what was it like to you? I felt like a child in a toy and candy store. Such visits always add to the wealth of my personal experience. It is like adding a small piece to the big puzzle we call understanding of the essence life; without such
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ZEHRUDIN ISAKOVI , NOVINAR, PUSTOLOV, PLANINAR
NE PROIZVODIM NEVOLJE I NE IZAZIVAM SUDBINU MOJ PROFESIONALNI ANGAŽMAN JE NEŠTO ŠTO SE MOŽE MIJENJATI, A LJUBAV PREMA PLANINAMA JE KONSTANTA KOJU U OSTAVITI IZA SEBE I KADA ODEM TAMO GDJE EMO SVI OTI I Piše: Adisa Bećiragić
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ođen je u Zenici gdje je završio osnovnu i srednju školu. Diplomirani je novinar i magistar komunikologije. Godinama uspješno spaja svoje dvije ljubavi – novinarstvo i planinarenje. Autor je ili koautor brojnih dokumentarnih emisija i serijala u kojima pratimo njegova putovanja širom svijeta. Trenutno se na Al Jazeera Balkans televiziji prikazuje iznimno zanimljiv i vrlo gledan serijal Vrhovi Balkana. Za Furaj. ba „ukrali“ smo mu dio slobodnog vremena između dva putovanja. Ko je ili šta je Zehrudin Isaković? Koje je to zanimanje koje prevashodno opisuje ono što Vi zaista jeste? Novinar, planinar, pustolov? Mislim da sam od svega pomalo. Novinar sam po zanimanju i obrazovanju, magistar sam komunikologije. Planinar sam od rođenja jer mi je rahmetli djed Bećir Isaković bio planinar, a ja sam mu bio prvi unuk. Čim sam prohodao, stavio me u ruksak i od tada sam u planinama. Ne bih rekao da sam pustolov, mada su odlasci u velika svjetska gorja, poput Anda ili Himalaja, uvijek vezani za pustolovine. Nije mi cilj namjerno proizvoditi nevolje niti izazivati sudbinu. Odlaske na planine uvijek nastojim učiniti što sigurnijim.
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PRIPREMA, POZOR, KRENI Šta je najvažnije u initi, mislim na vrstu pripreme, prije pohoda u nepoznato? Osnovno je znati nekoliko podataka o turi na koju polazite: dužina, tehnička zahtjevnost i meteo prognoza. Ako je zima, imate dodatne oteževajuće okolnosti, hladnoću, opasnost od lavina, pa i to morate ukalkulirati prije polaska. Još jedan savjet: prije polaska uvijek javite gdje idete i kada se namjeravate vratiti. Ukoliko dođe do neželjene situacije, ovi su podaci od ključne važnosti.
Balkana. Možete li izdvojiti neki koji je baš poseban i reći nam šta je to što ga je u inilo posebnim? Sudjelovanje u ekspediciji na Mount Everest je jedno od mojih najsnažnijih visokogorskih iskustava. Nakon povratka sa Tibeta i sa te ekspedicije nisam imao potpunu koncentraciju za „ovozemaljske“ probleme nekoliko mjeseci. Posebno stoga što smo imali snažno trodnevno nevrijeme na visini od 7.500 metara i jer smo nakon toga morali odustati od daljnjeg uspona. Odustati od vrha nakon dvogodišnjih svakodnevnih priprema nije jednostavno. Ali, niko nas nije pitao, spašavali smo živu glavu, tako da je žal vrlo brzo ustupio prostor radosti - jer smo živi i možemo opet pokušati jer život je jedan, a planina može i čekati. Predsjednik ste Planinarskog saveza Bosne i Hercegovine. Kako su jedan hobi i ljubav postali zanimanje? Volonterski angažman da budem predsjednik PS FBiH i PS BiH, prihvatio sam jer mislim da svojom vizijom mogu pomoći ujedinjenju tri najveća postojeća planinarska saveza u BiH (što smo učinili), a nakon toga i razvoju planinarske zajednice u cjelini. Veliki je posao pred nama, ali mi je zadovoljstvo dati svoj doprinos općem dobru.
Ima li u našoj zemlji stvarnog interesa za ovu vrstu sporta, premda ga, kako smo već rekli, ljudi nerijetko doživljavaju kao laganu šetnju „uzbrdo“ po prirodi? Odgovorit ću vam brojkom. Registriranih planinara u BiH ima oko 10.000 na populaciju od oko 3,5 miliona. Radi usporedbe, u Sloveniji na populaciju od dva miliona imaju 55.000 članova planinarske organizacije. Pozivamo građane da nam se pridruže i da ne hodaju sami po planinama. Neka dođu i učlane se u neku od naših organizacija, pa će, osim planinarske kulture, lijepih izleta i povećane sigurnosti, steći i 10.000 novih prijatelja, što, priznat ćete, nije mala stvar.
MOTIVACIJA SE NE KUPUJE
LAŽEM KAD KAŽEM „NIKAD VIŠE“ Da li Vam se ikada, ne nekom od Vaših putovanja, desila situacija da ste pomislili „nikad više“ ili „zašto mi je ovo trebalo“? Jeste, nekoliko puta, ali nakratko. Čim se izvučem iz kritične situacije zaboravim šta sam obećao. Mogu izdvojiti jedan moj mladenački uspon, imao sam 17 godina, u sjevernoj stijeni planetarno poznatog Petit Dru, granitnog šiljka u masivu Mt. Blana. Penjali smo se četiri dana, u stijeni ostali tri noći i svaku noć prije kratkotrajnog spavanja, molio sam samo da ostanem živ. Bio sam čvrsto uvjeren da se više nikada neću svjesno upustiti u rizične situacije, da se više nikada neću penjati na tako teške stijene. Slagao sam. U stijeni Botina na Veležu, bio sam za nepunu sedmicu i to u jednom od mojih najtežih solo uspona.
Čemu Vas je nau io boravak na planinama širom svijeta, a što nam možete preporu iti kao recept za ovaj, uvjetno re eno, normalni život? Rizični trenuci u planinama širom svijeta naučili su me da cijenim tzv. obične trenutke, kafu u Ferhadiji, ručak u Umoljanima, jutarnju gradsku svježinu čiji vas miris vodi u novi dan. Planine su me upoznale sa samim sobom jer tu čovjek
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almost cosmic proportions, had these two great assets failed to meet one another: Al Jazeera’s high professional standards and massive production machinery and my professional background both in journalism and alpinism. To most of us, laypeople, mountaineering is just a harmless outing into the mountains. We never consider the colossal dangers involved. Have you experienced dangerous situations during the adventures you had while making the series?
IT’S ABOUT THE MOUNTAINS AND THE PEOPLE “Peaks of the Balkans” is the series which captured the attention of viewers across the region. What sets it apart from other, similar projects? The idea for the series “Peaks of the Balkans” dates back to the time when Al Jazeera Balkans was about to open its office in BiH. Goran Milić, was in the process of negotiating his engagement with them when I persuaded him one day over coffee that a series dedicated to the mountains in the Balkans, (it was already certain at that moment that Al Jazeera Balkans would adopt regional approach), could have considerable audience. He shared this idea with the management, Tarik ođić and Edhem Fočo, who immediately welcomed it with open arms. We named the series together, though the credit for it should perhaps be shared 60:40 between Goran and me. I am immensely grateful to those people who made such a highly complex and demanding project possible, in a feat never accomplished by any other TV station in the Balkans. The series will explore the most valuable treasures the South-East Europe has to offer
when it comes to the mountains and the people native to their slopes. Judging by the reactions, I see that we got right to the point when it comes to the interest of the TV audience, especially alpinism enthusiasts, who are eager to see each new episode. I am particularly proud of the fact that the episode dedicated to Triglav had fantastic 86,000 views on YouTube, while new episodes are rapidly catching up with this record. If it was up to me to explain what sets this project apart from other similar projects, I would say that it’s the commitment, courage and effort needed to make documentaries on the subject of mountains. What I mean by that? Well, the cameramen who shoot the sequences in the open are exposed to all sorts of elements, the wind, the snow, the chill, the risk of avalanche or rockslide, incredible heights, extreme physical exertion, to name a few. They endured it all. It is what’s required for the entire effort to be worthwhile.
For sure. It was as we made the first documentary on Triglav, where both ascend and descend on very demanding and incredibly steep, rocky terrain require one’s full focus. At the time, I was not aware of the fact that one crew member had a fear of heights. Many fl aws can be tolerated as you make your way up Triglav, but the fear of heights – certainly not! On our way back, another crew member and I took him by the hand as we slowly descended down. Despite it all, he demonstrated incredible level of professionalism, overcame his panic and fear and completed the task at hand with fl ying colours! Al Jazeera crew assigned to the series, the cameramen Muhamed Kahrimanović and Sulejman Mura-
Secondly, successful implementation of the project resulted from highly sophisticated production provided by Al Jazeera Balkans and the extensive mountaineering experience on my part. It would have been an enormous waste, of
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During our ascend, we faced strong three-day storm at the altitude of 7,500 metres, which forced us to give up further ascend. To give up like that, after two years of everyday preparation, is not easy. But it was not really up to us, we were trying to hold on to our lives, so the regret about giving up was soon replaced by enormous joy of being alive and safe and ultimately, able to give it another try eventually. Finally, you only get to live once and the mountain will still be there next time. You are the President of the Mountaineering Association of Bosnia and
READY, STEADY, GO What’s a single most important thing one has to do to prepare, prior to the quest into the unknown? The most critical of all is to know the key aspects of the upcoming adventure, such as length of the trail, technical complexity and weather forecast. If you’re embarking on an adventure during winter, you should consider the temperature and the risk of avalanche and take those things into account when preparing. One important piece of advice: prior to your departure, always let someone know where you’re
Herzegovina. How did a hobby and a passion turn into an occupation? I accepted the voluntary engagement in the capacity of the President of the Mountaineering Association of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Mountaineering Association of Bosnia and Herzegovina because I firmly believe my vision could help unite the three biggest mountaineering associations in BiH (which was accomplished) and develop mountaineering community. We have a lot of work to do, but it is my pleasure to serve for the greater good. headed and what time you intend to be back. If something unexpected happens, these two pieces of information could prove to be crucial, even life-saving.
I LIE WHEN I SAY “NEVER AGAIN” Have you ever experienced a situation that made you say to yourself: “Never Again!”, or “What made me get into this?” Indeed I had such thoughts, several times, but only for a moment. As soon I got out of a critical situation, I forgot all about the promise I made
Does this type of sport have its aficionados in our country, though, as we already observed, people often perceive it as an easy upward stroll in the nature? Let me present some numbers. There are about 10,000 registered mountaineers in BiH, a country with a population of about 3.5 million. For the sake of comparison, Slovenia has a population of about 2 million, with about 55,000 members of mountaineering associations. We invite the citizens to join us and refrain from embarking on mountaineering adventures on their own. We to myself. I can share with you one of my early experiences. I was 17 at the time, I found myself on the northern side of world famous Petit Dru, a granite alpine peak in the massif of Mt. Blanc. We were climbing for four days, we remained on the rock for three nights and each night, before very brief moments of sleep, I prayed for my life. I was convinced at the time that I would never knowingly get into a similar peril and that I would never again attempt such a difficult feat. I lied. I got trapped in Botina peak on Mt. Velež for almost a week, in what was for sure one of my most difficult solo ascends.
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VELIKA DŽAMIJA DJENNÉ (MALI) Ova džamija je jedan od zaštitnih znakova Malija. Nije neobična samo zbog svog izgleda, već i zbog materijala od kojeg je napravljena. Naime, zidovi ove džamije građeni su od cigle napravljene od, nevjerovatno, blata, a džamija je prekrivena jednom vrstom glinenog gipsa koji joj daje uglađen, skulpturalni izgled. Unutrašnji i vanjski zidovi debeli su od 40 do 60 centimetara. MANJE POZNATA SVJETSKA ČUDA
Čudesne džamije, monumentalne utvrde, prekrasni zdenci SVIJET U KOJEM ŽIVIMO, PREPUN JE ČUDA. ZA MNOGA SMO ČULI, NEKA IMALI SRE U DA VIDIMO, ALI ŠTA JE SA ONIM SKRIVENIM I MANJE POZNATIM MJESTIMA, ČUDESNIM SPAJANJIMA PRIRODE I LJUDSKE RUKE. ZA TAJ MAHAL ZNAMO, ZNAMO I ZA VELIKI KINESKI ZID, ZNAMO I ZA RIMSKI COLOSEUM I GRČKI AKROPOLJ. TURISTIČKE BROŠURE PUNE SU BLISTAVIH FOTOGRAFIJA, PA ČAK I AKO NISMO IMALI PRILIKU OTPUTOVATI NA TA MJESTA, ZNAMO KAKO IZGLEDAJU. A ČUDESNIJIH MJESTA OD SPOMENUTIH IMA ŠIROM PLANETE. UPOZNAJMO SE SA NEKIMA
Zbog svoje posebnosti, Velika džamija se nalazi na UNESCO-ovoj listi svjetske baštine. Turisti se oduševljavaju njenom posebnošću, nerijetko njenu ljepotu i šarm uspoređujući sa čarobnim palatama iz Diznijevih crtića. Cijeli džamijski kompleks sa tri minareta podignut je na platformi dimenzija 75 puta 75 metara. Platforma je tri metra odignuta od zemlje, kako bi se džamija sačuvala od poplava koje svake godine donosi rijeka Bani. Redovno, svake godine nakon kišne sezone, lokalno stanovništvo se okuplja oko džamije na svojevrsnom festivalu, gdje pjevaju i jedu lokalna jela, ali tek nakon što saniraju eventualne štete na džamiji. Nekoliko dana prije festivala, počinju sa pripremama materijala za restauraciju.
CHAND BAORI (INDIJA) Smješten u malom selu Abheneri, u indijskoj pokrajini Radžahstan, ovo je najveći, najstariji i najdublji zdenac u Indiji, a vjerovatno najsavršeniji u cijelom svijetu, posebno ako se uzme u obzir da ga je kralj Čanda (Chanda) dao sagraditi još u 9. stoljeću. Namjena mu je bila da se za kišnih dana u njemu skupi dovoljno vode za potrebe sela kada nastupi suša. Divovska struktura liči na okrenutu piramidu na čiji se vrh (dno) spuštate niz oko 3500 uskih, savršeno složenih stepenica. Na dnu je zdenac (jezerce) pun hladne, mutne vode. Chand Baori nije poznat kao Taj Mahal, on je skrivena tajna Indije. 58
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GREAT MOSQUE OF DJENNÉ (MALI) This mosque is one of the symbols of Mali. It is not unusual just on account of what it looks like, but also because of the material used to build it. The walls of this mosque are made of bricks, and the bricks are made of, believe it or not, mud. Moreover, the mosque is covered with a kind of clay plaster, which gives it a smooth, polished look. Interior and exterior walls are between 40 and 60 cm wide. Its extraordinary design made the Great Mosque inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. StuLESS KNOWN WONDERS OF THE WORLD
Magnificent Mosques, Monumental Forts, Beautiful Water Wells THE WORLD WE LIVE IN IS TRULY AWE INSPIRING. WE HAVE ALREADY HEARD OF ITS MANY WONDERS, WE WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO EVEN SEE SOME OF THEM, BUT WHAT ABOUT THOSE THAT REMAINED HIDDEN, THAT CAME INTO BEING AS A RESULT OF WONDROUS TRIUMPH OF THE NATURE, SHAPED BY HUMAN INTERVENTION. WE ALL KNOW OF TAJ MAHAL, WE KNOW OF THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA AS WELL. WE ARE FAMILIAR WITH THE ROMAN COLOSSEUM AND THE ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS. TRAVEL GUIDES ARE PACKED WITH FLASHING PHOTOGRAPHS SHOWING THESE PLACES IN GREAT DETAIL, SO EVEN IF WE HAVE NEVER SEEN THEM, WE STILL KNOW WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE. THERE ARE COUNTLESS WONDROUS AND AWE INSPIRING PLACES SCATTERED ACROSS THE GLOBE. LET’S LEARN MORE ABOUT THEM.
nned by how special it is, tourists often compare its beauty and charm to the magical palaces featured in Disney’s cartoons. The entire complex with three minarets rests on a 75 by 75 metre platform. The platform is three meters high, to keep the mosque dry during the annual fl ooding of the river Bani. Every year after the rain season’s over, the local residents gather around the mosque in a festival-like ceremony, singing and enjoying the local cuisine, but only after any repairs of the mosque are completed. Several days before the festival, they prepare for the repairs.
CHAND BAORI (INDIA) Resting placidly in a small village of Abhaneri, in the Indian province of Rajastan, is the biggest, the oldest and the deepest step well in India, and probably most perfect of all, especially if the fact that King Chanda had it built in the 9th century is taken into account. Its primary purpose was to serve as a water reservoir, collecting rain water during the rainy season, to be used by the villagers during drought. This massive structure reminds of an inverted pyramid. To reach the top (the bottom in this case) one must descend down 3,500 narrow, perfectly laid steps. At the bottom is a well filled with cold murky water. Chand Baori does not have the popularity or fame of Taj Mahal; it’s India’s hidden treasure.
PARLIAMENT PALACE (ROMANIA) Second biggest administrative building in the world (second only to the Pentagon in the United States) is often described as the most controversial building in Romania. It was built during the socialist era and is considered the biggest and the most expensive civilian administrative building ever. It has 20 fl oors, eight of which are under ground. It occupies fantastic 330 thousand square meters. Its construction is considered to have been an attempt of the president at
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MUZEJ DRAGULJA TEHERAN
NAJBLISTAVIJA I NAJSKUPLJA ZBIRKA NA SVIJETU JEDINSTVENI DIJAMANTNI GLOBUS IZRA EN JE 1869. GODINE, TEŽI 38 KILOGRAMA, A SASTAVLJEN JE OD 51.336 KOMADA DRAGOG KAMENJA Nacionalni muzej dragulja nalazi se u podzemnom prostoru Centralne banke Islamske Republike Iran u Teheranu, prijestolnici zemlje. Poslije londonskog Tauera posjeduje najveću zbirku dijamanata i dragog kamenja na svijetu. Službenog naziva The Treasury of National Jewels (Mūze-ye ğawāherāt-e mallī-ye Īrān) muzej posjeduje jednu od najvrijednijih svjetskih kolekcija dragog kamenja usko vezanu za historiju Perzijskog carstva. Uz Daryā-ye nūr (More svjetlosti) drugi po veličini dijamant na svijetu od 182 karata pronađen u Indiji i donesen u Perziju u 17. vijeku te jedinstveni dijamantni globus izrađen 1869. godine, težak 38 kilograma, sastavljen od 51336 komada dragog kamenja, kolekcija sadrži nizove dijadema, oružja, kruna, pojaseva i ostalih dekoracija, koje su nekada ukrašavale perzijske šahove (kraljeve). Tu su ogromne količine zlata, rubina, smaragda i bisera. Postoje stotine malih kutija i satova, isto toliko sjajnih tijara, ogrlica i narukvica. Krunski dragulji Irana su daleko najveća i najblistavija zbirka dragulja u svijetu.
O njenoj vrijednosti možda najbolje govori podatak da kao rezerva podupire iransku nacionalnu valutu. U vlasništvu muzeja su i krunski dragulji. Posljednji koji su ih koristili bili su članovi Pahlavi dinastije, posljednje koja je vladala Iranom. Za vrijeme Iranske revolucije 1979. godine, postojao je strah da će veliki dio dragulja biti ukraden, što se djelimično i ostvarilo. Mali dio dragoga kamenja je ukraden i izmješten iz zemlje, ali je najveći i najvrijedniji dio kolekcije ostao netaknut. Devedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća, nova vlada ponovo je za javnost izložila stalnu postavku blistavih dragulja. Muzej je srijedom, četvrtkom i petkom zatvoren, a ostalim danima radi od 14.00 do 16.30 časova. Aparati za slikanje, telefoni i torbe ostavljaju se na recepciji, a posjetiteljima se savjetuje da budu oprezni i ne diraju ništa jer u protivnom mogu aktivirati alarme. Kako god, cijelo vrijeme boravka u muzeju, na oku će vas držati predstavnici Vlade. Djeci mlađoj od 12 godina nije dopušten ulaz.
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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY
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JAJCE 66 , FOTO REPORT/PHOTO FEATURE BY AMIR BAÅ IMAMOVI
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MOSTAR , FOTO REPORT/PHOTO FEATURE BY AMIR BAÅ IMAMOVI 68
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VODOPAD KRAVICE / KRAVICA WATERFALLS, FOTO 70REPORT/PHOTO FEATURE BY AMIR BAÅ IMAMOVI
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog na Bistriku
OMILJENO ZAJEDNIČKO MJESTO SARAJEVSKIH VJERNIKA NOVU CRKVU PROJEKTIRAO JE JOSIP VANCAŠ. IMA GOTOVO 50 METARA VISOK TORANJ, U KOJEM JE PET ZVONA (NAJVE E TEŽI PREKO ČETIRI TONE). NA KORU SU DANAS ORGULJE IZ 1925. GODINE
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arajevski gradski kvart na desnoj obali Miljacke, između Latinskog mosta i mosta umurija, dugo vremena bio je poznat kao Latinluk. Nazivao se tako prema vjernicima-katolicima rimskog, odnosno latinskog obreda. Latinluk je 1652. brojio oko 200 katoličkih porodica. Nakon prodora Eugena Savojskog 1697. Latinluk je razoren, katolici raseljeni, crkva Blažene Djevice Marije srušena, a mjesto gdje je ona bila zapamćeno je do naših dana kao crkvište. Franjevci su se povukli i nastanili u kršćanskim porodicama.
PRVA CRKVA NA BISTRIKU Na mjestu sadašnje crkve sv. Ante nalazila se crkva, posvećena istom svecu, podignuta krajem 1881. i u prvoj polovini 1882. godine. Po svojim dimenzijama ali i po načinu gradnje bila je skromna građevina. Naime, samo su njeni temelji bili ozidani od kamena, dok je cijela zgrada izgrađena od drvene mreže ispunjene nepe-
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
The Church of St. Anthony of Padua in Bistrik
FAVOURITE CONGREGATIONAL PLACE OF SARAJEVO’S CHURCH GOERS THE NEW CHURCH WAS DESIGNED BY JOSIP VANCAŠ. IFS FIFTY METRES HIGH BELL TOWER HOUSES FIVE BELLS (THE LARGEST OF WHICH WEIGHS OVER FOUR TONS). THE ORGAN STILL USED TODAY, DATES BACK TO 1925.
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arajevo city block nested on the right bank of the river Miljacka, between the Latin Bridge and the umurija Bridge, was known for ages as the “Latinluk”. It was named so after its Roman Catholic residents. In 1652, Latinluk was a home to about 200 catholic families. After the Prince Eugene of Savoy raided the city in 1697, Latinluk was devastated, catholic families displaced, the Church of the Holy Virgin levelled to the ground and the place it used to stand at was remembered as the church site. The surviving Franciscans settled in Christian families.
THE FIRST CHURCH IN BISTRIK At the location of the present-day Church of St. Anthony was another church, dedicated to the same saint, built over the period between late 1881 and early 1882. In terms of its size and the method of construction employed, it was a modest structure. Its foundations were made of stone, with the rest of the structure built of wooden beams filled with bricks. It featured a small semi-circular sacristy and a small wooden bell tower with two bells atop the entrance. At the time, it was the only Catholic
Church in Sarajevo. It also served as a parish church. In addition, as the church hierarchy was established, it became the seat of the Vrhbosnia Archdiocese. It served that purpose for seven years, until the moment the Sarajevo Cathedral was completed in 1889. Not a decade after its completion, it became clear that the church building was not strong enough to withstand the elements. Even occasional reconstruction works could not prevent its temporary closure for more substantial repairs in 1905. The Franciscans therefore, soon decided to build a new church.
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
U VUKOVOM KONAKU
Seoska idila nadoma
KONAK UGLAVNOM POSJE UJU STRANCI, JEDAN JE ČAK ZAPOSLEN TU. DOŠAO JE IZ ŠVEDSKE, ZOVE SE MARCUS I NA IMANJU ŽIVI I RADI. PLA A MU JE STAN I HRANA, A POSAO DA VODI RAČUNA O GOSTIMA I BRINE SE DA ŽIVOTINJE BUDU NAHRANJENE Piše: Adisa Bećiragić
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amislite veliku kolibu od debelih drvenih greda. Na prizemlju stolovi sa klupama prekrivenim ovčijim kožama. U uglu otvoreni kamin u kojem veselo od rane zore do kasno u noć pucketa vatra. Toplo je. Iz kuhinje se širi zamaman miris domaće hrane. Oko kolibe snijeg koji se zadržava do ranoga proljeća. I gusta borova šuma. Od nezvanih gostiju čuvaju vas dva psa, haski i ženka šarplaninca. Iza kolibe obor u kojem stanuje jedna koza. Tek koji metar od nje, još jedan u kojem žive
dva magarca. I da ne zaboravimo, tu su i dvije mačke. Ovo je životinjski dio malog eko naselja nazvanog Vukov konak, smještenog u naselju Vučija Luka, do kojeg dolazite kroz selo Zečija Glava, udaljenog tek petnaestak kilometara od sarajevske Vijećnice. Do Vukovog konaka se dolazi kada iz pravca Sarajeva krenete put Pala, dobro održavanim asfaltiranim putem. Čim se prođe vratnički tunel, skrenite s puta desno kod putokaza
za Hrešu. Dalje će vam biti jednostavno. Zalutati je teško, kraj je naseljen cijelim putem i uvijek dobronamjerne prolaznike ili stanovnike možete pitati za put. Oprezno vozite jer je sa prvim danima proljeća pun prepun biciklista rekreativaca. - Koliba prvobitno nije stajala na ovom mjestu, već u šest kilometara udaljenom selu. Pažljivo smo je rastavili, gredu po gredu, i u istom obliku postavili na ovo mjesto. Izgleda potpuno autentično kao stara, kaže
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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY THE WAY OUR FOREFATHERS LIVED
Čardaklije Rural Estate
IF YOU’RE AFTER MORE THAN JUST GOOD FOOD AND SURREAL PEACE, YOU CAN RIDE HORSES, DRIVE IN A HORSE CARRIAGE OR TOUR THE ESTATE IN A HORSE WAGON.
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s you leave Bihać and head towards Sarajevo, some 30 kilometres down the regional road and only 12 kilometres away from the irresistible beauty of Una National Park, you will get to Čardaklije Rural Estate, a perfect spot for everyone eager to experience the way our forefathers lived, first hand.
OLD TRADES AND PLUM JAM The ancestors of the present-day owners, the domicile Radošević family, moved to this region from Lika, back in the 14th century. According to the legend, the group was led to the foothills of Mt. Grmeč by a blind village elder, riding a blind horse, who commanded suddenly: “This is where we settle!” The lean, tall houses they used to build were known under the local term: “čardak” and so were their tenants appropriately named: “čardaklije”, soon after having made this place their home. That’s the story of how this place was named. Today, Čardaklije is a magical oasis, so close to the civilisation, and yet, somehow on its own, tucked away and isolated from the rest of the world. The guest house is the centre of this small oasis. It features a large restaurant on the top fl oor, with about 70 seats. The open summer terrace has additional 200 seats. The ground fl oor of the Guest House features a small bar where one can experience heart-warming hospitality, taste traditional dishes and enjoy one of many home-made drinks or beverages. The Bosnian House, also located within the estate, is where one can see people involved in the old trades. One can also see how jams and fruit preserves are made and herbs picked in pure and unpolluted nearby meadows to be dried and used later for herbal tea. “Čardak”, the tallest building at the estate, is where milk and meat are prepared the old-fashioned way.
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
DOBRO DOŠLI U KRALJEVSKI GRAD
Jaj ce gradsvjetlosti , kamenaivode S KOJE GOD STRANE DA DOLAZI U JAJCE, PUTNIK SLIJEDI RIJEKE – PLIVU ILI VRBAS, NJIHOV ZELENI ILI PLAVI TRAG, KOJI GA NEPOGREŠIVO VODI DO GRADA KOJEM JE PRIRODA TAKO IZDAŠNO PODARILA UVJETE ZA LJUDSKO ŽIVLJENJE Na obalama Vrbasa i Plive uzdiže se jedan od najljepših gradova u BiH – grad svjetla, kamena i vode, kraljevski grad, muzej pod vedrim nebom, grad sa 29 nacionalnih spomenika – grad Jajce. Veličanstveni, 21 metar visoki vodopad, među 12 najljepših na svijetu, ukrašava sam centar grada, čineći Jajce jedinstvenim u svijetu. Malo i Veliko plivsko jezero, nadomak grada, mjesto je svojevrsnog odmora za rijeku Plivu, koja je, na putu ka svom odredištu, okretala veliki broj vodeničkih točkova. Plivska jezera pogodna su za razvoj svih sportova na vodi. Arheološka nalazišta, otkrivena u samom centru grada, ukazuju da su ljudi na ovim prostorima živjeli još prije 6.000 godina. Posebno su značajna nalazišta iz rimskog doba,
Foto/Photo Amir Bašimamović među kojima su Hram boga Mitrasa i nekropole iz 4. stoljeća. Jajce se u pisanom dokumentu prvi put spominje 1396. godine u kojem se osnivač grada Hrvoje Vukčić Hrvatinić (1350 - 1416) naziva «conte di Jajcze». Ime Jajce potječe, najvjerovatnije, od jajolike stijene na kojoj je sagrađena tvrđava. U 15. vijeku Jajce je bilo sjedište bosanskih kraljeva, a ovdje je 1461. godine krunisan posljednji bosanski kralj Stjepan Tomašević. Za vrijeme turske vladavine u Jajcu se nalazilo više obrazovnih ustanova, izgrađeno je kupatilo-hamam, čiji ostaci su i danas sačuvani, a u okolini su bili i značajni prepisivački centri. Iz tog perioda mnogo je građevina, ali posebno mjesto zauzima džamija Esme Sultanije.
Tursku upravu zamjenjuje Austrougarska 1878. godine. Gradi se za to doba najveća hidrocentrala u ovom dijelu Evrope, pa je vodopad bio osvijetljen još u 19. vijeku. U tom periodu izgrađena je željeznička pruga Jajce – Lašva i Jajce – Mliništa i cesta Jajce Banja – Luka. Jajce je poznato i po tome što je ovdje 1943. godine na Drugom zasjedanju AVNOJ-a stvorena Jugoslavija. Prva inicijativa za upis Jajca na listu svjetske baštine UNESCO pokrenuta je još 1979. godine. Inicijativa je ponovo oživljena 2005. godine.
BUDIMO ZAJEDNO DIO VELIKE UNESCO PORODICE PODRŽITE NAS!
Kontakti Općine: Općina Jajce, Ul. Nikole Šopa bb, 70 101 Jajce telefoni: Centrala 030 658 011, Kabinet Načelnika 030 658 013, mail: info@opcina-jajce.ba, opc.jajce@tel.net.ba, web: www.opcina-jajce.ba 90
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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
TREBIŽAT RIVER SAFARI
THE BELLE
OF HERZEGOVINA T
here is almost no age limit for participation in the safari, which makes it suitable for those looking for an adrenalin rush, just as it is for those looking for an opportunity to relax and become one with nature. From its source in Peć-Mlini to its confl uence with the River Neretva, Hercegovina's Trebižat is 51 kilometres long. It is an underground river and the only river in Europe that repeatedly disappears into the ground only to resurface again, as many as nine times. This winding river with nine names, with pure and clear water and easy rapids, will be best experienced on a canoeing safari, an interesting tourist attraction organised by Čapljina based association “Tajna prirode”.
THERE IS ALMOST NO AGE LIMIT FOR PARTICIPATION IN THE SAFARI, WHICH MAKES IT SUITABLE FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR AN ADRENALIN RUSH, JUST AS IT IS FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR AN OPPORTUNITY TO RELAX AND BECOME ONE WITH NATURE
THE WILDLIFE WONDER At the outset of this incredible journey, the river is slow-moving and peaceful. As one gets closer to the end, it becomes fast-fl owing and exciting. During summer months, the water temperature is at about 20 degrees centigrade, which makes it ideal for people sensitive to temperature variations. There is almost no age limit for participation in the safari, which makes it suitable for those looking for an adrenalin rush, just as it is for those looking for an opportunity to relax and become one with nature. Participants in the safari will get to see many species of fish and birds, and enjoy lovely waterfalls which perfectly complement the setting.
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TEMA BROJA / COVER STORY
The pointed top of Mount Kušlat has been the home of Kušlat mosque for centuries. From its elevated position, the mosque captures the attention of the local residents and good-hearted travellers passing across the valley, on the road between Zvornik and Konjević Polje, right at the spot where two beautiful green rivers, Drinjača and Jadar, join into one. The mosque is considered to be one of the oldest mosques in our country. It is a unique military religious facility, built during the early Ottoman era, between 1460 and 1480. One can access the mosque, which has inspired many legends, only on foot, following a narrow pathway through the woods, which coils around the rock like a serpent, leading right to the spot where the mosque completes the peaceful setting.
JustLi keaBi rdsNest According to one of the legends, the mosque was built by the residents of Konjević Polje and
Pahljevići, on the plain just by the road, but that night, it somehow inexplicably “climbed” to the top of the rock. The residents laboured to take the mosque apart and bring it back to the valley, one piece at the time, but it would return back to the top each time. People soon gave up, so the mosque remained at its preferred spot, where it still stands today, looking from afar, just like a big nest.
This, of course, is just a legend. Truth is that it was built, for their own needs, by the Ottoman soldiers, right upon their arrival to Bosnia, which makes it the first military mosque in our country. Before their arrival, the same location served as a site of a fortress and a military outpost, guarded by high perimeter wall, which served to control the caravan route from Srebrenica to Zvornik and further to Bijeljina,
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ZDRAVLJE / HEALTH
SPECIJALNA BOLNICA ZA ORTOPEDIJU I OPŠTU HIRURGIJU DR. NEMEC
VRHUNSKI TIM ZA LIJEČENJE LOKOMOTORNIH BOLESTI
PRVA PRIVATNA SPECIJALNA BOLNICA ZA ORTOPEDIJU OBILJEŽAVA JEDANAEST GODINA RADA, TOKOM KOJIH JE U BOLNICI OBAVLJENO PREKO DEVET HILJADA OPERACIJA
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ZDRAVLJE / HEALTH
T
he team created by Prof. Boris Nemec Ph.D. has about 30 members of staff at the moment, including six specialists in orthopaedic surgery, one anaesthesiologist, about 20 nurses, two physical therapists, administrative and support staff. The Special Hospital in Matulji near Rijeka is a top of the line institution dedicated to treatment of injuries and diseases of the locomotor system. Professional team of medical experts, supported by other staff of the Hospital, uses the most recent surgical techniques in treatment of its patients, which guarantees fast and efficient postoperative recovery.
SPECIAL ORTHOPAEDICS AND GENERAL SURGERY HOSPITAL “DR NEMEC”
TOP TEAM FOR TREATMENT OF LOCOMOTOR DISEASES
- “Our priority is to select individually tailored treatment for each of our patients. For most patients, having a surgery is a very stressful experience. Calming environment, detailed discussion prior to the surgery and introduction of the patient to all phases and aspects of the procedure are fundamental to our approach to treatment”, highlights Dr Nemec, who also added that such approach guaranteed optimum outcome of the surgery and postoperative care.
THE FIRST PRIVATE SPECIAL ORTHOPAEDICS HOSPITAL MARKED ITS 11TH ANNIVERSARY LAST YEAR, WITH OVER NINE THOUSAND SURGICAL PROCEDURES PERFORMED SINCE COMMENCEMENT OF ITS OPERATION
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VRIJEME JE ZA KUHANJE / TIME FOR COOKING
Goveđi Rendang
CNN TRAVEL JE 2011. GODINE “RENDANG DAGING” PROGLASIO JEDNIM OD 50 NAJUKUSNIJIH JELA NA SVIJETU SASTOJCI: • 1000 grama govedine • 1500 ml kokosovog mlijeka • 1 kom kurkuma lista • 1 stabljika limunske trave, isjeckana • 5 kom liste od limeta • 2 velike kašike soka od tamarinda • 7 supenih kašika narezanog chilija • 7 supenih kašika narezanog crvenog luka • 3 supene kašike narezanog bijelog luka • 1 supena kašika kurkume • ½ supena kašika narezanog đumbira • 2 supene kašike narezanog galangala • 2 supene kašike soli PRIPREMA: - Stavite sastojke u blender i napravite začinsku pastu blenderom - Stavite kokosovo mlijeko u wok, dodajte začinsku pastu i ostale sastojke: list kurkume, limunsku travu, list od limeta i sok od tamarinda. Pustite da se kuha na srednjoj vatri dok ne dobije gustinu i masnoću. - Dodajte govedinu i kuhajte dok ne omekša. Povremeno promiješajte kašikom i pustite da meso upije začine i dobije smeđu boju. - Servirajte uz kuhanu rižu.
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