Furaj.ba 22 by Furaj.ba

Broj 22, 2, Avgust 2020.

LJETNE AKTIVNOSTI/ SUMMER ACTIVITIES KAMPOVANJE/CAMPING KAJAKARENJE/ KAYAKING KUPANJE/SWIMMING SPLAVARENJE/ RAFTING

za kupanje u BiH THE BEST PLACES TO SWIM IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA INTERVJU / INTERVIEW: ALMA FEROVIĆ-FAZLIĆ I NERMIN OGREŠEVIĆ

SADRŽAJ INTERVJUI I PRIČE Alma Ferović-Fazlić U svom glasu nosi bol Balkana 14 Nermin Ogrešević, gradonačelnik Cazina Dobri i hrabri ljudi donose uspjeh 26 Mirza Redžepagić, flamenco gitarista Flamenco je način života 82

MOJA ČUDESNA ZEMLJA, BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA Top 10 razloga zašto posjetiti okolinu Trnova 40 Najljepša mjesta za kupanje u Bosni i Hercegovini 46 Kampovanje - Najsigurniji način odmora u jeku pandemije 52 Top 3 lokacije za vožnju kajakom u blizini Sarajeva 54 Najbolja mjesta za splavarenje u BiH 58 Tuzla - Panonska jezera 65 Lukomir - Posljednje bh. selo 68 Počitelj - Najumiljatiji grad juga 72

Šta vidjeti u Jablanici i Mostaru 76 PREDSTAVLJAMO Metropola nekretnine – Logičan izbor ozbiljnog posrednika 22 FOTO EDITORIJAL MARIN MAMUZA Preko muzike do fotografije i filma 88 PUTOVANJA LISABON Grad na rijeci Težo 104

104

CONTENTs INTERVIEWS AND STORIES Alma Ferović-Fazlić She Carries the Pain of the Balkans in Her Voice 17 Nermin Ogrešević, Mayor of Cazin Kind-hearted and Audacious People Bring Success 29

48 52 54 46

Mirza Redžepagić, Flamenco guitarist Flamenco is a Lifestyle 85 MY MAGICAL COUNTRY, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Top Ten Reasons to Visit the Vicinity of Trnovo 40 The Best Places to Swim in Bosnia and Herzegovina 49 Camping - The Safest Way to Get Some Rest in the Midst of Pandemic 53 Top 3 Places to Kayak Near Sarajevo 56 The Best Rafting Spots in B&H 59 Tuzla - Pannonian Lakes 67 Lukomir - Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Last Village 70 Počitelj, the Tamest Town of the South 74 Sites to Explore in Jablanica and Mostar 80 INTRODUCING Metropola nekretnine – Logical Choice of Real Estate Agents 24 PHOTO EDITORIAL MARIN MAMUZA Through Music to Photography and Film 89 TRAVEL LISABON A City on the Tejo 105

IMPRESSUM

FURAJ.BA Magazine br. /no. 22 - August 2020 Direktor/Director Emira Azganović Redakcija/Editorial Staff Samra Višnjić Semra Hodžić Elma Zećo DTP&Dizajn/Design Sandra Ozimica Prevod /Translation Dženita Pašić Marketing marketing@furaj.ba +387 61 247 013 +387 33 208 818 Izdavač / Publisher Arterija d.o.o.

Foto/Photo: Emira Azganović

Adresa/Address Kralja Tvrtka 9, Sarajevo

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Foto/Photo: Lejla Bojić Berberović

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S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Uvodnik Intro Dragi čitatelji,

Dear readers,

ovo ljeto odlučili smo provesti unutar granica Bosne i Hercegovine koja nas u svim njenim krajevima iznova oduševljava ljepotom, fascinira kulturno-historijskim blagom i iznenađuje bogatim sadržajem za provesti aktivan odmor.

We decided to spend this summer holiday within the borders of our own country, Bosnia and Herzegovina, which continues to fascinate us with its beauty, amaze us with its cultural and historical heritage, and astonish us with a wide range of activities to choose from for an active holiday.

Spas od vrućina i bijeg od gradske vreve potražili smo na nekim od najljepših mjesta za kupanje kraj prekrasnih rijeka i jezera, u očaravajućim predjelima naših planina, gdje smo i uprkos otežavajućim okolnostima usljed pandemije koronavirusa uspjeli uživati u ljetu za pamćenje! Donosimo vam još mnoštvo ideja za idealan odmor, upoznavanje BiH i stvaranje uspomena za cijeli život.

Seeking to escape from the scorching summer heat and the hustle and bustle of the city, we headed out to some of the most beautiful swimming spots along the gorgeous rivers and lakes of B&H, in breath-taking mountain landscapes, where we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and made long-lasting summer memories in spite of the tough circumstances caused by the Coronavirus pandemic. We bring you lots of travel tips for having a perfect holiday in B&H, exploring various sites and creating memories to last a lifetime.

Poštujte mjere i uživajte!

Please respect the safety measures and eyjoy yourselves!

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S NAMA U AVANTURU / JOIN US FOR AN ADVENTURE

Boje sezone

Colours of the Season

NOVOSTI / NEWS

VEDAD BAŠIĆ, WINNER OF HIGH-DIVING COMPETITION AT OLD BRIDGE IN MOSTAR

VEDAD BAŠIĆ POBJEDNIK SKOKOVA SA STAROG MOSTA U MOSTARU U Mostaru su održani 454. tradicionalni skokovi sa Starog mosta, a "Mostarsku lastu" je osvojio Vedad Bašić. Prvi je to put, nakon trinaest godina, da je nije osvojio Lorens Listo koji se povukao iz takmičenja. Igor Kazić pobjednik je u kategoriji skokova na vodu. Zbog pandemije koronavirusa, ovaj inače spektakl u Mostaru, uživo je pratilo samo sto gledalaca.

The 454th traditional high diving competition from the Old Bridge was held in Mostar, and Vedad Bašić won the “Mostar Swallow” prize. This is the first time in thirteen years that Lorens Listo, who retired, did not win. Igor Kazić took the prize in the leg-first category. Because of the coronavirus pandemic, only 100 spectators attended the competition this year, compared to the tens of thousands that usually gather in Mostar at this spectacular event.

U CENTRU SARAJEVA GRADIT ĆE SE ŠETNICA "SARAJEVSKI ĆILIM" Od današnje popularne "Hippy klupe“ kroz cijeli Veliki park preko malog do Alipašine ulice, pješačka zona će dobiti potpuno novi izgled. Kombinacijom raznih vrsta kamenih ploča i zelenila, duž šetnice dobit će se efekat "Sarajevskog ćilima“. Planirana je ugradnja vodilica za slijepe osobe, te izgradnja javnog toaleta i postavka umjetničkih instalacija. 10

“SARAJEVO CARPET” PROMENADE TO BE BUILT IN CENTRAL SARAJEVO The pedestrian zone that stretches from the currently popular “Hippy Bench” café to the Big Park and the Small Park and all the way to Alipašina Street will be completely redesigned. A mix of various types of stone slabs and green patches along the promenade will create the “Sarajevo carpet” effect. The plan includes laying kerb edges for visually impaired pedestrians, building public toilets and exhibiting installation artworks.

FILM JASMILE ŽBANIĆ NA FESTIVALIMA U VENECIJI I TORONTU Film poznate bh. rediteljice Jasmile Žbanić "Quo Vadis, Aida?" o genocidu u Srebrenici odabran je za učešće u glavnom takmičarskom programu čuvenog Venecija film festivala i takmičenje za glavnu nagradu Zlatni lav. Film je također uvršten i u oficijelni program 45. Toronto film festivala, najvećeg sjevernoameričkog filmskog festivala.

JASMILA ŽBANIĆ’S FILM TO AIR AT VENICE AND TORONTO FILM FESTIVALS Renowned Bosnian-Herzegovinian director Jasmina Žbanić’s film “Quo Vadis, Aida?” about the Srebrenica genocide was selected for the main competition at the Venice Film Festival, and it will also compete for the Golden Lion. Moreover, the film was selected for the official programme of the 45th Toronto Film Festival, which is regarded as North America’s largest film festival.

Diplomas: @tricociuniversity Diploma USA Redken Elite Tricoci Barbicide BTC university *OLAPLEX* certified

Adresa / Address: Džemala Bijedića 33 Čengić Vila, Sarajevo 71000 Tel: 033-976-700 062-453-781 IG: @hairsalon_ml FB: Frizerski salon ML frizerml@gmail.com

NOVOSTI / NEWS

SARAJEVO DOBIJA NOVO MODERNO KINO U centru Sarajeva bit će otvoren Cineplexx – novo multipleks kino sa 8 kinodvorana opremljenih najsavremenijom tehnologijom. Cineplexx Sarajevo imat će Barco Laser Film projektor, Dolby Atmos tehnologiju koja pruža trodimenzionalni zvuk, Real D Ultimate screen tehnologiju za čistu sliku i najbolji RealD 3D sistem.

NEW MODERN CINEMA TO OPEN IN SARAJEVO Cineplexx, a new multiplex with 8 cinema halls equipped the latest cutting-edge movie technology, will be built in the centre of Sarajevo. Cineplexx Sarajevo will feature Barco’s Laser Film projectors, Dobly Atmos surround-sound technology with 3D audio, RealD Ultimate screen technology for a superior viewing experience, and the best RealD 3D system.

MUSIC POSTCARD FROM MOSTAR— GREETINGS TO UNESCO FROM CITY ON NERETVA RIVER

MUZIČKA RAZGLEDNICA MOSTARA - POZDRAV UNESCO-U IZ GRADA NA NERETVI Povodom 16. godišnjice obnove Starog mosta i upisa Mostara na Listu UNESCO-a svečano je predstavljena Muzička razglednica Mostara. Grad Mostar time je poslao poruku prijateljstva i nade, ne samo svojim prijateljima i UNESCO gradovima nego i svima koji u ovim vremenima nisu u prilici putovati i posjetiti Mostar. U izradi ove muzičke razglednice učestvovalo je više od 30 mostarskih umjetnika iz svijeta muzike i filma. 12

On the occasion of the 16th anniversary of rebuilding the Old Bridge and of the inscription of Mostar on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, the City of Mostar presented a Music Postcard from Mostar sending a message of friendship and hope not only to all of Mostar’s friends and UNESCO cities, but also to anyone who is not able to travel and visit Mostar in these unusual times. More than 30 Mostar-based music and film artists participated in creating the music postcard.

PIONEER VALLEY SOON TO HAVE AN ADRENALINE PARK

PIONIRSKA DOLINA USKORO BOGATIJA ZA ADRENALIN PARK U Pionirskoj dolini počeli su radovi na izgradnji adrenalin parka za djecu i mlade, koji će se prostirat na ukupno 2.500 kvadratnih metara površine. Novi najmoderniji sadržaj u zelenoj oazi sastojat će se od tri dijela: adrenalin staza sa različitim preprekama i mostovima, umjetne stijene za penjanje površine oko 50 kvadrata, visoke do šest metara, te dječijeg ziplinea.

Construction work on the adrenaline park for children and adolescents, which will span across 2,5000 square metres, began at the Pioneer Valley (the Sarajevo Zoo). The green oasis will feature three new and modern areas: an adrenaline track with different kinds of obstacles and bridges, a six-meter-high artificial climbing wall stretching over nearly 50 square metres, and a children’s zipline.

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

ALMA FEROVIĆ-FAZLIĆ

NAKON ŠTO JE KAO SOLISTICA LONDONSKE FILHARMONIJE NASTUPILA POD DIRIGENTSKOM PALICOM JEDNOG OD NAJVEĆIH DIRIGENATA FILMSKOG SVIJETA, KRITIČARI SU JE OPISALI KAO ONU KOJA U SVOM GLASU NOSI BOL BALKANA KOJI PRODIRE U SRCA PUBLIKE. MUZIČKA PRODUCENTICA I REDITELJICA KOJA JE NASTUPALA NA POZORNICAMA ŠIROM SVIJETA DANAS RADI KAO ASISTENTICA NA PREDMETU GLAS NA ODSJEKU ZA GLUMU AKADEMIJE SCENSKIH UMJETNOSTI SARAJEVO. PRAUNUKA EMINE, MOSTARKE KOJU JE OPJEVAO ALEKSA ŠANTIĆ, KRUNISANA JE POČASNOM NAGRADOM KRALJEVSKE AKADEMIJE U LONDONU ŠTO NAM JE BIO POVOD ZA RAZGOVOR S NJOM. Razgovarala: Semra Hodžić / Fotografije: Almin Zrno i privatni arhiv

edavno ste dobili prestižno priznanje Kraljevske akademije za značajan doprinos muzičkoj profesiji. Šta Vam ono predstavlja? Počasna nagrada (ARAM) dodjeljuje se bivšim alumnijima Kraljevske muzičke akademije u Londonu, koji su dali značajan doprinos muzičkoj profesiji uopće i to je i navedeno u pismu upućenom Univerzitetu u Sarajevu. Na ovaj način internacionalno je priznat moj rad i doprinos na polju muzičkog teatra, a posebno na pokretanju ove oblasti u Bosni i Hercegovini. Za mene je ovo zasigurno kruna dosadašnjeg rada i veliki motiv za dalje. U Londonu ste ostvarili značajne uspjehe na pozorišnim projektima. Kakva su bila Vaša iskustva i kako je reagirala zahtjevna publika poput londonske? Iz tih iskustava crpim veliku energiju i danas. Uistinu je to bilo nešto posebno. Pozorišni projekt koji je

definitivno obilježio moj život jeste čuvena trilogija „Gospodar prstenova“ koja je urađena kao mjuzikl. U samoj partituri ima dosta Bosne i naših etnomotiva. I nakon dvanaest godina sjećam se svake note i riječi s obzirom na to da sam odigrala veliki broj predstava. U svojoj arhivi imam nekoliko članaka i kritika od kojih je jedna za mene posebno važna, a odnosi se na koncert The Alchemy festival u Royal Festival Hallu u Londonu gdje sam kao jedina solistica nastupala sa orkestrom Londonske filharmonije pod palicom jednog od najvećih dirigenata filmskog svijeta Mattom Dunkleyem. U kritici koja me istakla u prvi plan kritičar Telegrapha je napisao da u svom glasu nosim bol Balkana koji prodire u srca publike. Vratili ste se u BiH. Šta Vas je dovelo nazad u domovinu? Vratila sam se iz porodičnih razloga koji nisu bili lijepi, ali nakon svega bila je to ipak moja najbolja odluka, iako donesena u trenutku kada sam

bila na vrhuncu karijere igrajući glavnu ulogu u epicentru muzičkog teatra u Londonu. Tada sam se vratila isključivo da pomognem svojim roditeljima, ali ono što nisam znala je da sam se zapravo vratila da osnujem svoju porodicu. Danas sa voljenim mužem Sanjinom podižem naša dva malena sina Isu i Zejna. Po povratku u BiH osnovali ste Institut za muziku, teatar i multimediju. Šta ste primjetili da nedostaje našoj kulturnoj sceni iz Vaše oblasti i šta ste napravili da to promijenite? Osnivanje iMTM je bila kao nužna potreba u to vrijeme jer sam kao saradnik iz prakse u oblasti muzički teatar na Muzičkoj akademiji vodila pretalentovane grupe studenata sa kojima sam ubrzo počela kreirati pozorišne produkcije. Trebala nam je pravna platorma da to možemo raditi ozbiljno. Producirajući predstave sa mnogim kolegama zaista sam mukotrpno gradila scenu muzičkog teatra koje nije bilo. Najveća misija mi je bila da u predstavama 15

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

igraju mladi ljudi, koji će dobijati prilike da pokažu šta mogu kao i da su predstave u potpunosti bh. proizvod. Predstavnici ste Rockshool London za BiH. Kako djeluje ta škola i kakve projekte možemo očekivati? Rockschool BiH je jedan od ogranaka iMTM-a odnosno akreditirana škola za muzičke instrumente i pjevanje, a uskoro muzički teatar i moderne plesove gdje po završetku kandidati stiču pravo na inostrane diplome. Ovo je veoma lijepa priča i ono najvažnije je da radimo po RSL programu po kojem radi veliki broj zemalja u svijetu i da smo time u toku svjetskih zbivanja na muzičkoj sceni. RSL je organizirao koncerte polaznika, učestvovali smo na festivalima ali za sada radi pandemije smo se prebacili na videoprojekte od kojih je prvi bio spot za pjesmu „Freedom“ u izolaciji. Uz Vaše ime veže se i lijepa priča, da ste praunuka Mostarke koju je opje16

vao čuveni pjesnik Aleksa Šantić. Kako je bilo odrastati uz tu priču? To je moj porodični dragulj koji nosim duboko u srcu. Pranene se nažalost ne sjećam ali je zamišljam u svojoj glavi prema pričama koje sam slušala u porodici dok sam odrastala i kao takva me zauvijek inspiriše. Moja izvedba „Emine“ je bila moja lična misija da ostavim još jednu

verziju ali kroz prizmu onog čime se bavim, tako da i sama videopriča govori o ljepotama Hercegovine generalno, i Emine, a muzički aranžman je kao mala filmska partitura u kojoj se mogu čuti zvuci Hercegovine. Nije mi bila namjera da je medijski eksponiram previše jer ja nisam estradni izvođač već zaljubljenik teatra, a trenutno sve više kroz edukaciju i produkciju.

ALMA FEROVIĆ-FAZLIĆ

She Carries the Pain of the Balkans in Her Voice AFTER HER PERFORMANCE AS THE SOLOIST OF THE LONDON PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA UNDER THE BATON OF ONE OF THE MOST RENOWNED FILM CONDUCTORS, CRITICS WROTE THAT SHE CARRIED THE PAIN OF THE BALKANS IN HER VOICE STIRRING THE EMOTIONS DEEP INSIDE THE HEARTS OF THE AUDIENCE. THIS MUSIC PRODUCER AND DIRECTOR WHO PERFORMED ON STAGE ALL OVER THE WORLD IS NOW A TEACHING ASSISTANT FOR THE COURSE IN VOICE IN THE ACTING DEPARTMENT AT THE SARAJEVO ACADEMY OF PERFORMING ARTS. THE GREAT GRANDDAUGHTER OF EMINA, THE WOMAN FROM MOSTAR ALEKSA ŠANTIĆ WROTE A SONG ABOUT, IS THE WINNER OF THE HONORARY AWARD ASSOCIATE OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC IN LONDON, WHICH PROMPTED US TO TALK TO HER. Interviewed by: Semra Hodžić Photographs: Almin Zrno; Amir Bajrić; Alma Ferović's personal photo archive 17

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

You’ve recently received a prestigious award from the Royal Academy for a valuable contribution to the music profession. What does it mean to you? The honorary award is conferred upon former alumni of the Royal Academy of Music in London who’ve made a substantial contribution to the music profession in general, and this was conveyed in a letter sent to the University of Sarajevo. In this way, my work and contribution in the field of music theatre was recognised internationally, particularly my pioneer work in this field in Bosnia and Herzegovina. For me, this is indeed the crowning achievement of the work I’ve done so far, and a strong motivation for me to keep going. Your theatre pieces in London were quite a success. What was your experience like, and what was the response of such a demanding audience as the London audience to your work? I draw a great deal of energy from that experience even today. In fact, it was quite remarkable. “The Lord of

the Rings”, which was made into a musical, is certainly the theatre piece that has marked my life. Its score uses Bosnia and its ethnic motifs a lot. And twelve years later, I still remember each note and word, and I’ve performed in a large number of plays! In my personal archive, I’ve got a few articles and reviews written by professional theatre critics, and one of them is particularly important to me. It’s the one about The Alchemy Festival held at the Royal Festival Hall in London where I was the only soloist performing with the London Philharmonic Orchestra under the baton of Matt Dunkley, one of the most renowned film conductors. In the review highlighting my role, the critic wrote that I carried the pain of the Balkans in my voice stirring the emotions deep inside the hearts of the audience. You came back to B&H. What brought you back to your homeland? I came back for family reasons, which weren’t particularly nice, but in the end, it was the best decision I’ve ever made, even though I made it when I was at the peak of my career

performing the lead role in London, the epicentre of musical theatre. I came back solely to help my parents, but what I didn’t know was that I actually came back to have a family of my own. With my beloved husband Sanjin, I’m now raising our two little boys, Isa and Zejn. Upon your return to B&H, you established the Institute for Music, Theatre and Multimedia (iMTM). Was there something missing on our cultural scene in relation to your field of expertise, and what did you do to change it? There was a compelling need to establish the iMTM at the time. As an expert in the field of musical theatre at the Sarajevo Academy of Performing Arts, I was working with these exceptionally talented students, and after a short time I started creating theatre productons. We needed a legal platform to do it in a serious way. By producing plays with a whole lot of colleagues, I worked arduously to create the music theatre scene that wasn’t there to begin with. My greatest mission was to have young people performing in

plays. I wanted them to be given a chance to show what they can do, and I also wanted these plays to be B&H products from start to finish. You’re a representative of Rockshool London in B&H. How does the school operate, and what kind of projects can we expect from it? Rockschool B&H is one of the branches of iMTM. It’s an accredited school offering singing and instrument courses, and it’s also going to offer theatre and modern dance programmes very soon. Upon completion, candidates will have the right to receive foreign diplomas. This is a beautiful story, and most importantly, we follow the RSL programme, so we’re keeping up to date with the global music scene. RSL organised gigs for our course participants, and we also partook in various festivals, but due to the pandemic, now we’re doing video projects. The first video we recorded in coronavirus isolation was for a song called “Freedom”. A wonderful story is linked to you as you’re the granddaughter of the woman from Mostar famed poet Aleksa Šantić wrote a song about. What was it like growing up with this story? That’s a family treasure I cherish deep within my heart. Sadly, I don’t remember my great grandmum much, but I do imagine her in my mind based on family stories I used to hear while I was growing up, and she’s always an inspiration. My rendition of “Emina” was a personal mission I embarked on to leave another version of the song behind through the prism of what I do, so the video also tells a story about the wonderful places in Herzegovina in general and Emina’s story too. The musical arrangement of the song was like a little film part in which the sounds of Herzegovina can be heard. I never meant to expose it in the media much since I’m not a popular performer, but a theatre lover who’s much more focused on education and production right now. 19

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

26 IZDANJE

SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL

OVE GODINE ISKLJUČIVO ONLINE NAJVEĆI I NAJPOPULARNIJI FILMSKI FESTIVAL U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI ODRŽAVAN JE I U OPKOLJENOM SARAJEVU, ALI OVE GODINE ZBOG PANDEMIJE KORONAVIRUSA ORGANIZATORI SU PRIMORANI DA GA U POTPUNOSTI ODRŽE U ONLINE FORMATU. GLEDAOCI IZ CIJELE BOSNE I HERCEGOVINE I REGIJE MOĆI ĆE PRATITI FILMSKE PROGRAME 26. SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVALA NA ONLINE PLATFORMI ONDEMAND.SFF.BA U PERIODU OD 14. DO 21. AUGUSTA. SVJETSKA PREMIJERA BH. FILMA Već treći put film uspješnog bh. režisera Pjera Žalice otvara SFF. Svjetska premijera filma „Koncentriši se, baba“ bit će održana 14. augusta s početkom u 20 sati na ondemand. sff.ba! Radnja filma odvija se u aprilu 1992. godine u Sarajevu, na odru stare majke gdje se okuplja porodica rasuta po cijeloj bivšoj Jugoslaviji. A tu počinju spletke, intrige itd. U filmu igraju: Jasna Žalica, Emir Hadžihafizbegović, Alma Prica, Jadranka Đokić, Vedrana Božinović, Admir Glamočak, Dženita Imamović, Bane Popović, Izudin Bajrović, Dino Sarija i Mira Banjac.

49 FILMOVA U UTRCI ZA SRCE SARAJEVA Proslavljeni francuski filmski autor Michel Hazanavicius, dobitnik Oscara za film “The Artist”, bit će predsjednik žirija Takmičarskog programa – igrani film. Za nagrade Srce Sarajeva uku-

pno će se takmičiti 49 filmova u četiri takmičarske selekcije – igranog, dokumentarnog, kratkog i studentskog filma.

OTKAZAN I OPEN AIR Iako su organizatori bili spremni da festival održe pod posebnim okolnostima, zbog pogoršane epide-

UŽIVAJ U SFF-U OD KUĆE Prijavom na ondemand.sff.ba publika na svom uređaju ima priliku uživati u filmskom programu 26. SFF-a, 5 ekskluzivnih intervjua sa zvijezdama festivala i 10 panel diskusija na temu savremene kinematografije. Za one koji nisu u BiH, paketi s ponudama su prema kategorijama dostupni i za teritoriju regije i svijet. Sve o cijenama i ponudama pronađite na www.sff.ba.

mijske situacije u Kantonu Sarajevo, odlučeno je da se festival održi isključivo online. Sarajevo Film Festival na ovaj način potvrđuje odgovornost i obavezu prema zajednici u kojoj djeluje. Ljubitelji sedme vrste umjetnosti u Sarajevu ostali su uskraćeni za poseban festivalski doživljaj - gledanje filmova pod vedrim nebom iz programa Open Air na najvećem filmskom platnu u regiji.

POČASNO SRCE SARAJEVA Danski glumac Mads Mikkelsen dobitnik je nagrade Počasno Srce Sarajeva 26. Sarajevo Film Festivala za izuzetan doprinos filmskoj umjetnosti.

26TH EDITION

SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL

TO BE HELD ENTIRELY ONLINE THIS YEAR THE LARGEST AND MOST POPULAR FILM FESTIVAL IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA WAS HELD EVEN AT THE TIME WHEN SARAJEVO WAS STILL UNDER SIEGE, BUT DUE TO THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, THIS YEAR ITS ORGANISERS ARE FORCED TO CONDUCT ALL FESTIVAL EVENTS ENTIRELY ONLINE. LOCAL AUDIENCES AND FILM LOVERS ACROSS THE REGION WILL BE ABLE TO VIEW FILMS AT ONDEMAND.SFF.BA, THE SARAJEVO FILM FESTIVAL’S ONLINE PLATFORM, FROM 14 TO 21 AUGUST. WORLD PREMIERE OF BOSNIAN-HERZEGOVINIAN FILM This is the third time that renowned Bosnian director Pjer Žalica’s film opens the SFF. The world premiere of “Focus, Grandma” will be available for viewing worldwide at ondemand.sff.ba on 14 August at 8 PM! Set in April 1992, the story follows family members, scattered across former Yugoslavia, who return to Sarajevo to gather around the death bed of their matriarch. And that is where intrigue and scheming ensue. The cast includes Jasna Žalica, Emir Hadžihafizbegović, Alma Prica, Jadranka Đokić, Vedrana Božinović, Admir Glamočak, Dženita Imamović, Bane Popović, Izudin Bajrović, Dino Sarija, and Mira Banjac.

49 FILMS TO COMPETE FOR THE HEART OF SARAJEVO AWARDS Acclaimed French director Michel Hazanavicius, who won the Os-

car for best director for „The Artist“, will preside over the jury of the Competition Programme – Feature Film. 49 films will compete for the Heart of Sarajevo Awards in four competition programmes: feature, documentary, short and student film.

OPEN AIR CANCELLED TOO Even though the festival’s organisers were prepared to conduct festival events under special circumstances, due to the worsened epidemiological situation in the Sarajevo Canton, they took the decision to conduct all festival events entirely online. This confirms the

Sarajevo Film Festival’s responsibility and commitment to its community. Lovers of the seventh art in Sarajevo will be deprived of the special festival experience this year—watching movies under the sky on the largest film screen in the region as part of the Open Air Programme.

THE HONORARY HEART OF SARAJEVO Danish actor Mads Mikkelsen is to receive the Honorary Heart of Sarajevo Award of the 26th Sarajevo Film Festival for his outstanding contribution to the art of film.

ENJOY SFF AT HOME By registering on ondemand.sff.ba, viewers will be able to access the 26th Sarajevo Film Festival’s programmes on their devices, including 5 exclusive interviews with festival stars and 10 panel discussions on contemporary cinematography. Viewers worldwide will be able to access films and content according to regional and territorial availability. For more info on prices and content please go to www.sff.ba.

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

METROPOLA NEKRETNINE

Logičan izbor ozbiljnog posrednika PRIJE VIŠE OD SEDAM GODINA SARAJEVSKO TRŽIŠTE NEKRETNINA OSVJEŽENO JE AGENCIJOM „METROPOLA NEKRETNINE“ KOJA VRLO PROFESIONALNO I S LJUBAVLJU OBAVLJA OVAJ POSAO. NJIHOVE TEŽNJE BRZO SU PREPOZNALI TADA KLIJENTI, A DANAS VEĆ DUGOGODIŠNJI POSLOVNI PARTNERI, KOJI SU IH PREPORUKOM NA OSNOVU LIČNOG ISKUSTVA DOVELI NA POZICIJU PO KVALITETI PREPOZNATLJIVE AGENCIJE. MALI TIM STRASTVENIH STRUČNJAKA Trenutno zapošljavaju šest osoba koje predstavljaju mali, kvalitetni tim strastvenih stručnjaka u oblasti poslovanja nekretninama. Osnovna djelatnost im je posredovanje pri prodaji i iznajmljivanju nekretnina, a s ciljem da održe kvalitet i uvijek budu bolji, konstantno rade na edukaciji i osnaživanju tima na poljima procjene, prodaje, marketinga ali i

prava. Trude se zapošljavati mladi kadar koji unosi moderne tehnike i s lakoćom prati urbane trendove u poslovanju, te time drži korak s vremenom.

PROFESIONALNE PONUDE Ponose se time da prodaju i iznajmljuju prosječno isti broj nekretnina koje tokom godine preuzmu u ponudu. U ponudi nemaju precijenjenih nekretnina za kupovinu, jer redovno izvode procjene realne tržišne vrijednosti za

GDJE SE NALAZE Sjedište agencije nalazi se u naselju Otoka, u ulici Bulevar Meše Selimovića br. 2A, u prizemlju zgrade izgrađene pored glavne saobraćajnice. U augustu je planirano otvaranje podružnice u naselju Stup, na adresi Džemala Bijedića, a u sklopu stambeno-poslovnog kompleksa Bulevar.

svaku nekretninu koju preuzimaju, u skladu s čime definiraju početne cijene za prodaju. Oglasi za prodaju sadrže realan prikaz stanja nekretnine što se vidi na profesionalnim fotografijama, te strogo vode računa o tome da sve objavljene informacije budu provjerene, tačne i precizne. Iza sebe imaju u rekordnom vremenu rasprodane projekte novogradnje kao što su „Stambeni objekat „City Residence“ na Mejtašu, „Stambeno-Poslovni objekat Pofalići“, „Apartmani Klek“ Objekat I, dok trenutno vode prodaju projekata novogradnje poput apartmana na Bjelašnici i to projekte „Bijela Kuća“ i „Vista Central Bjelašnica“, koji su građeni najsavremenijim tehnikama gradnje i nalaze se na najboljim pozicijama sa pogledom na staze i perfektnim pristupom, a kao takvi su savršeni za ljetni i zimski odmor na našoj olimpijskoj ljepotici. U ponudi,

PORED APARTMANA NA BJELAŠNICI, PUTEM AGENCIJE „METROPOLA NEKRETNINE“, KUPCI TAKOĐER MOGU PRONAĆI NEKRETNINE NA MORU, KAO ŠTO SU KUĆE U NEUMU, APARTMANI U KLEKU, TE MNOGOBROJNE STANOVE I POSLOVNE PROSTORE ZA KUPOVINU I NAJAM U SARAJEVU. također imaju i projekat novogradnje „Stambeno-poslovni objekat Dobrinja“ koji predstavlja tačno ono što većina kupaca danas traži, a to je manja zgrada sa malim broj stanova, lijepim pogledom, sa mnogo prozorskih otvora, kvalitetnim i modernim materijalima za završnu obradu i dovoljno parking prostora. Putem agencije „Metropola Nekretnine“, kupci mogu pronaći i nekretnine na moru, kao što su kuće u Neumu, apartmani u Kleku, te mnogobrojne stanove i poslovne prostore za kupovinu i najam u Sarajevu.

Adresa/Address: Bulevar Meše Selimovića br. 2A Telefon/Telephone: 033/956 333

info@metropolanekretnine.ba

PREDSTAVLJAMO / INTRODUCING

METROPOLA NEKRETNINE Logical Choice of Real Estate Agents

MORE THAN SEVEN YEARS AGO, “METROPOLA NEKRETNINE” REAL ESTATE AGENTS WERE A FRESH ADDITION TO THE SARAJEVO REAL ESTATE MARKET. THEY ARE VERY PROFESSIONAL ABOUT THE WORK THEY LOVE TO DO. CUSTOMERS WERE QUICK TO RECOGNISE THEIR DESIRE TO ACHIEVE SUCCESS. THOSE CUSTOMERS HAVE BEEN THEIR BUSINESS PARTNERS FOR YEARS AND THANKS TO THEIR RECOMMENDATIONS, WHICH WERE BASED ON FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE, THE AGENCY HAS BECOME RECOGNISED FOR ITS QUALITY OF SERVICE. SMALL TEAM OF PASSIONATE PROFESSIONALS The six employees that work at the agency make up a small but great team of passionate real estate business professionals. Their core business includes acting as the 24

intermediary between real estate buyer and seller while maintaining and continuously improving the quality of service, providing training and empowering the team when it comes to assessment, sale, marketing and legal aspects of the real estate business. They seek to employ young people who use modern

techniques and can easily keep up with urban trends and latest developments in business.

PROFESSIONAL OFFERS They are proud of the fact that they sell and rent the same number of real estate properties they list in a year on average. There are no over-

LOCATION

The agency’s seat is in the Otoka neighbourhood at 2A Bulevar Meše Selimovića, on the ground floor of a building right located next to the main road. The agency plans to open a new branch office in the Stup neighbourhood at Džemala Bijedića Street. It will be located in the Boulevard residential and commercial building complex.

priced properties for purchase in their offer because they asses the real market value of each piece of property they list, and that is the basis of the asking price for sale. Sale adverts show the actual look of the property as seen on pictures taken with a professional camera and strict attention is paid to providing verified, accurate and precise information. They sold the following newly con-

structed properties at record speed: Residential Building “City Residence” in Mejtaš, “Pofalići Residential and Commercial Building”, “Klek Apartments” Building I, and now they are running the sale of newly constructed properties such as the apartments in Bjelašnica Mountain, namely the “White House” and “Vista Central Bjelašnica” projects built using the latest, most advanced construction techniques and situated at locations offering views of ski slopes and easy access, and as such they are perfect summer and winter holiday locations in the beautiful Olympic mountain. They also offer the newly constructed “Pofalići Residential and Commercial Building” which is exactly what most buyers are interested in today: a smaller building with a small number of flats, lovely views, a lot of windows, high-quality and modern interior finishes, and enough space to park. “Metropola nekretnine” estate agents offer customers seaside real estate property such as

IN ADDITION TO APARTMENTS LOCATED IN BJELAŠNICA MOUNTAIN, “METROPOLA NEKRETNINE” ESTATE AGENTS OFFER CUSTOMERS SEASIDE REAL ESTATE PROPERTY SUCH AS HOUSES IN NEUM AND APARTMENTS IN KLEK, AS WELL AS A LARGE NUMBER OF FLATS AND OFFICE SPACE FOR PURCHASE OR RENT IN SARAJEVO. houses in Neum and apartments in Klek, as well as a large number of flats and office space for purchase or rent in Sarajevo. 25

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

NERMIN OGREŠEVIĆ, gradonačelnik Cazina

Dobri i hrabri ljudi

donose uspjeh Razgovarala: Elma Zećo

“NAKON KAPITALNIH INVESTICIJA U INFRASTRUKTURU, TRENUTNI FOKUS NAŠEG RADA POČIVA NA RAZVOJU MALOG I SREDNJEG PODUZETNIŠTVA, TE POSLOVNIH ZONA NA PODRUČJU CAZINA”

ulozi čelnog čovjeka Cazina Nermin Ogrešević nalazi se već 16 godina. Iako su se tokom ovog perioda desile različite promjene, i dalje je imperativ početno opredjeljenje – ljudima obezbijediti što bolje uslove za život, što je u krhkoj zemlji BiH težak put. - Privreda i ekonomija glavni su pokretač razvoja svake zajednice, pa su svi naši projekti od samog početka usmjereni u tom pravcu. Nakon kapitalnih investicija u infrastrukturu, trenutni fokus našeg rada počiva na razvoju malog i srednjeg poduzetništva, te poslovnih zona na području Cazina. Sve što je u međuvremenu urađeno u Cazinu, dio je zajedničkog posla jednog velikog tima ljudi i, svakako, građana - kaže na početku razgovora Nermin Ogrešević, gradonačelnik Cazina.

OZBILJAN POSAO I IZAZOV Vi ste načelnik postali veoma mladi – s 32 godine. Šta Vas je motivisalo da se kandidujete za načelnika, te jeste li osjećali određenu bojazan kada ste preuzimali ovu funkciju? - Čovjek bi trebao stremiti ka tome da u životu učini što više dobrih i korisnih djela. Kako zbog sebe, tako zbog onih koji dolaze nakon njega. Da li zbog ratnog iskustva, snažne želje da se stvari u okruženju mijenjaju na bolje, iskrene ljubavi prema prostoru iz kojeg sam potekao, ili možda samo zbog mladosti, nekih stvarnih strahova na početku ovog posla se ne sjećam. Jednostavno, ni u jednom trenutku nije bilo vremena za strah ili kalkulacije. Ovo je za mene od početka do danas ozbiljan posao i izazov, i samo tako ga prihvatam. Vraćajući film unazad, koje momente biste izdvojili kao ključne za početak

progresivnijeg razvoja Cazina? - To je svakako svojevrsno zaokruživanje infrastrukture u svim dijelovima nekad općine, a danas grada. Trenutak u kojem su sva naselja u 23 cazinske mjesne zajednice, koliko ih ima, imala riješeno vodosnabdijevanje, funkcionalnu elektromrežu, asfaltirane lokalne puteve i obuhvaćenost komunalnim uslugama, itekako je promijenio koncept razvoja. Naravno, nakon toga su uslijedili drugi koraci poput preuređenja urbanog dijela grada, koji je promijenio vizure Cazina, ali danas doprinosi i kompletnom dojmu o ovdašnjim ljudima, pa imamo primjer da investitori ističu ovaj momenat kao veoma bitan. Uspostava naše prve Poslovne zone početak je treće faze razvoja usmjerene na jačanje privrede. To jesu neki od najznačajnijih momenata, ali moram naglasiti da se u Cazinu svaki dan radi i da taj progresivni razvoj nastojimo držati u kontinuitetu. Poslovna zona Ratkovac slovi za projekat budućnosti Cazina. Zašto ovdje vrijedi ulagati i na koji način želite privući potencijalne investitore? - Poslovna zona Ratkovac je prva zona koju kao Grad možemo ponuditi domaćim i stranim investitorima. Prostire se na 50 hektara prostora, posebnom je, između ostalog, čini odlična transportna povezanost, te se nalazi u blizini ključnih polaznih tački za aktivnosti prema tržištu centralne Evrope. Naime, sam Cazin je nadomak granice s Evropskom unijom i u poslovnom smislu to je velika prednost. Također, poticajne mjere, koje smo ponudili investitorima, kreću se od stopostotnog subvencioniranja troškova gradskih administrativnih taksi i priključenja na vodovodnu i kanalizacionu mre-

žu, do 50-postotnog subvencioniranja rente i uređenja građevinskog zemljišta. Infrastruktura Poslovne zone Ratkovac je u potpunosti obezbijeđena i po svim parametrima ovo je najpovoljnija poslovna zona u okruženju. Prvi investitori su iz Njemačke, a činjenica da već imaju stopostotni izvoz ugovoren za narednih sedam godina, dovoljno govori o njihovim daljim planovima. Do kraja godine očekujemo i nove investitore iz Evrope, a tu je i nekoliko domaćih privrednih subjekata. Iako je ova specifična godina usporila mnoge procese, smatram da Poslovna zona Ratkovac nastavlja svoj razvoj u najpovoljniju i najkvalitetniju poslovnu zonu u okruženju. Grad Cazin prepoznatljiv je također po svojim sportskim i prazničnim manifestacijama. Koliko su oni iskorišteni kao turistički potencijali? - Kao i u cijeloj BiH, turistički potencijali ni ovdje nisu dovoljno iskorišteni i zapravo bih rekao da smo u tom dijelu razvoja još uvijek na počecima, ali konkretne planove svakako imamo. Cazin ima nekoliko vrijednih godišnjih manifestacija koje su već tradicionalne, ali i mnogo sve većih sportskih događaja. Uz naše prirodne resurse, koji su, zaista, bogati i zanimljivi, poduzetan i vedar duh ovdašnjih ljudi, siguran sam da će se turizam ovdje itekako razvijati i mi kao lokalna zajednica tu oblast uklapamo u sve ostale planove koji se odnose na ukupan privredni napredak.

NAJLJEPŠE JE KOD KUĆE I Vi se lično volite baviti sportom. Tjelovježba je Vaša redovna aktivnost, a učestvujete i na Cazinskom maratonu. Koliko je za Vas generalno važno razmišljati o zdravom stilu življenja? 27

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

- Sigurno neću kazati ništa novo, ako istaknem da u tempu života kakav je današnji čovjek ne može kvalitetno sačuvati zdravlje bez brige o redovnim fizičkim aktivnostima i nekoj zdravijoj prehrani, ali s obzirom na to da oduvijek volim sport, redovni cross fit treninzi, povremeno nogomet, u sezoni planinarenje i slično, mnogo mi znače i važan su segment u mom životu. U Cazinskom maratonu učestvujem s velikim zadovoljstvom i dijelim žaljenje s brojnim učesnicima što je ovogodišnji zbog corona virusa morao biti otkazan. Volite putovati, no veliki broj poslovnih obaveza Vam najčešće ne dozvoljava da se otisnete na neke dalje destinacije. Kako izgleda Vaš tipični odmor? - Bojim se da će ta ljubav prema putovanjima ostati samo to, jer, osim onih poslovnih, nisam imao ni vremena ni mogućnosti za neka značajna putovanja. Ali kao neko ko iznad svega voli svoju porodicu, kuću, zavičaj, ne žalim se i svaki trenutak proveden u tom okruženju za mene je jedini pravi odmor. Postoji li kutak u Cazinu kojeg bi svaki 28

OVAJ KRAJ JE POZNAT PO OTVORENIM I IZUZETNO GOSTOLJUBIVIM LJUDIMA. SVAKO KO DOĐE U CAZIN U TO ĆE SE UVJERITI, A SAMIM TIM I UPOZNATI NJEGOVE BROJNE ZNAMENITOSTI. IMA IH VEOMA MNOGO, SPECIFIČAN SMO KRAJ, PRIRODA JE OVDJE BOGATA, A HISTORIJA ZANIMLJIVA

mi često zaprepastimo stavovima nekih ljudi, nerijetko i intelektualaca, koji kažu da nikad nisu bili u Krajini ili Cazinu. Ovaj kraj je poznat po otvorenim i izuzetno gostoljubivim ljudima. Svako ko dođe u Cazin u to će se uvjeriti, a samim tim i upoznati njegove brojne znamenitosti. Ima ih veoma mnogo, specifičan smo kraj, priroda je ovdje bogata, a historija zanimljiva – na svakom koraku ćete čuti i vidjeti nešto što sigurno niste do sada znali o Cazinu.

Bosanac i Hercegovac trebao upoznati?

- Definitivno, ljudska dobrota i hrabrost. S takvim ljudima se stvara pozitivna energija, a takva energija donosi samo uspjehe. S više plemenitih i hrabrih ljudi sve je bolje i jedino takve pojave mijenjaju okruženje. Smatram da nam u Bosni i Hercegovini treba što više prostora za glas takvih ljudi.

- Prije svega, svaki Bosanac i Hercegovac bi trebao poznavati barem sva urbana središta i značajne znamenitosti svoje zemlje. Mala smo zemlja i većini ljudi u ovom dijelu BiH se podrazumijeva da u životu obiđu sve dijelove svoje domovine i zato se

Kojim motom ste se uvijek rukovodili kroz život? - Ono što me sigurno određuje jesu vjera i stalni rad. Na tome se temelji svaki novi dan u mom životu, svaka odluka i svako razmatranje budućnosti. Šta Vas u životu uvijek može obradovati?

NERMIN OGREŠEVIĆ, Mayor of Cazin

Kind-hearted and Audacious

People Bring Success “AFTER MAKING CAPITAL INVESTMENTS IN INFRASTRUCTURE PROJECTS, WE’RE CURRENTLY FOCUSING ON DEVELOPING SMALL AND MEDIUM-SIZED ENTERPRISES AND ENTERPRISE ZONES IN THE CAZIN AREA” Interviewed by: Elma Zećo

ermin Ogrešević has been serving as the administrative head of Cazin for 16 years. Even though various changes took place during this period, the initial commitment is still imperative: provide the best living conditions for the people of Cazin, which is a difficult road to take in a fragile country such as B&H. - The economy and economic development are the main engines of any community development, so that was the basis of all our projects from inception. After making capital investments in infrastructure projects, we’re currently focusing on de29

INTERVJU / INTERVIEW

veloping small and medium-sized enterprises and enterprise zones in the Cazin area. All that we’ve done in Cazin in the meantime is part of what a large team of people, and certainly the people of Cazin, have done together, says Nermin Ogrešević, Mayor of Cazin, at the beginning of the interview.

the Central European market. Namely, Cazin is close to the borders of the European Union, and this is a major advantage in business. In addition, our investment incentives include a 100% subsidy for administrative fees and connections to the city’s water supply and sewerage networks, and a 50% construction land rent and development subsidy. SERIOUS WORK AND Infrastructure in the Ratkovac EnCHALLENGE terprise Zone is in place and it’s the most affordable business zone in You became mayor at a very young the region by all parameters. The age—when you were 32 years old. first investors we have are German, What was your motive to run for and the fact that they already agreed mayor, and were you a little appreto export 100% of their products in hensive when you took office? the next seven years speaks volumes of their plans for the future. We - We should always strive to do as expect new European investors to many good and useful deeds in life Ratkovac Enterprise Zone is known join us by the end of the year, but a as we possibly can, not only for our few domestic enterprises are own sakes, but for the sake of already here. Even though future generations too. Was it many business processes because of the war experienhave been slowed down this ce that I have, the strong dePEOPLE IN THIS AREA year, I believe that the Ratkosire to change the community ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR vac Enterprise Zone will becofor the better, the genuine FRIENDLINESS AND GENEROUS me the most affordable and love of the place that I come HOSPITALITY. ANY VISITOR the highest quality enterprise from, or because of my young zone in the region. age, I’m not quite sure, but I WILL FEEL IT IN CAZIN, AND, don’t recall having any real THUS, VISIT ITS NUMEROUS The City of Cazin is also reapprehensions when I started nowned for its sport events LANDMARKS. WE’VE GOT out as mayor. There was simand festivities. How exploited QUITE A FEW OF THOSE. ply no time for feeling uneis its tourism potential? asy or for scheming. Being CAZIN IS A UNIQUE AREA RICH the mayor of Cazin has been - As is the case acroIN WONDERFUL NATURAL a serious and challenging ss B&H, Cazin’s tourism poLANDSCAPES WHICH BOASTS position for me from the betential has, so far, been unAN INTERESTING HISTORY ginning, and I wouldn’t have it derexploited, and I’d say that any other way. we’re still at an early stage of development in that sense, Looking back, in your opinion, but we’ve got specific plans. what were the key aspects to We’ve got a few important annual as Cazin’s project for the future. Why moving forward with the city’s deveis it worth investing in Cazin and how events that have become somewlopment? do you plan to attract potential inve- hat of a tradition, and we’ve got a growing number of large sporting - Managing the completion of the stors? events too. With our natural resoconstruction works at various lo- Ratkovac Enterprise Zone is the urces, which are indeed rich and cations in what used to be a municipality, and what is now a city, first zone the City of Cazin can offer interesting, as well as with the ento domestic and foreign investors. trepreneurial mindset and cheerful certainly. The moment when all the It spans across 50 hectares of land, spirit of our people, I’m positive that neighbourhoods in Cazin’s 23 local communities—that’s how many and what makes it special is that it’s our tourism will flourish. As a local got, among other things, excellent community, our plans for the tourithere are—finally had a water sutransport links with the rest of the sm industry are part of our overall pply network, a functioning power country, and that it’s near the key economic development plans for grid, asphalted local roads and entry points for business activity in Cazin. public utility services in place, the 30

existing concept of development changed drastically. Other activities followed, of course, such as redevelopment of the urban parts of Cazin, which changed the look of the city and added to the overall impression people now have of the people of Cazin. For instance, that’s the added value investors particularly like to highlight. The third stage of development, aimed at boosting the local economy, was setting up the first Enterprise Zone. These were some of the key aspects to moving forward with the city’s development, but I reckon it’s important to note that we’re working on it every day and we’ll keep moving forward.

THERE IS NO PLACE QUITE LIKE HOME You personally also love playing sports. You exercise regularly, and you also partake in the Cazin Marathon. Do you generally find it important to think about living a healthy lifestyle? - While this won’t come as new to you, I’ll point out that the pace of life in today’s society is much faster than in the past, and you can’t stay healthy without regularly incorporating exercise into your life and maintaining a healthy diet. I’ve always loved playing sports, so regular CrossFit exercises, occasional football games, seasonal hikes, etc. are important and mean a great deal to me. I’m always delighted to run the Cazin Marathon, and was extremely sorry, just like my fellow runners, to hear that this year’s edition of the run had been cancelled due to the Coronavirus pandemic. You love travelling; and yet, your professional commitments prevent you from travelling to distant locations. What’s your typical holiday like? - I do love travelling, but I’m afraid I’ll have to leave it at that, because apart from travelling for business, I neither had the time nor the opportunity to travel much. I’m the type of man who loves his family, his home and his homeland above all things, so I don’t complain about not travelling. Each moment spent with them is the only true holiday for me. Is there a place in Cazin each and every Bosnian and Herzegovinian should visit? - First of all, each and every Bosnian and Herzegovinian should be familiar with all urban areas and important landmarks in the country. It’s a small country really, and for most people in this part of B&H it goes without saying that we should explore each corner of our homeland at some point in our lives. That’s why we’re astonished to

hear that some people, and, quite often, intellectuals, say that they’ve never been to the Krajina Region or in Cazin.

- My faith and continuous work is what defines me, for sure. That’s how I start the day, how I make decisions and how I ponder the future.

People in this area are known for their friendliness and generous hospitality. Any visitor will feel it in Cazin, and, thus, visit its numerous landmarks. We’ve got quite a few of those. Cazin is a unique area rich in wonderful natural landscapes which boasts an interesting history—at every step of the way, you’ll see or hear something about Cazin that you’ve never heard before.

Is there something that can always uplift your spirits?

Do you have a motto in life that you try to live by?

- Human kindness and audacity, definitely. Kind-hearted and audacious people create a positive energy around them, which in turn brings success. The more generous and audacious people there are, the better. That’s the way to make a difference. I believe we need to provide more opportunity in Bosnia and Herzegovina for these people’s voices to be heard. 31

folow#furajba us TEKIJA U BLAGAJU

@zjakica

BAŠČARŠIJA

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BALKANA JEZERO

@endji_jones

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JABLANICA JEZERO SMREKA (NULA) KOD VAREŠA

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NP KOZARA

RAMSKO JEZERO

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TREBIŽAT

@adventuresymbiotes @adventure.trebizat

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Čeh rodom,

KARLO PARŽIK

Sarajlija izborom

ČEŠKI ARHITEKT KARLO PARŽIK IZA SEBE JE OSTAVIO NEMJERLJIV DOPRINOS URBANIZACIJI I IZGRADNJI SARAJEVA ZA VRIJEME AUSTRO-UGARSKE. OVAJ ROĐENI ČEH KOJI SE SMATRA JEDNIM OD NAJZNAČAJNIJIH GRADITELJA SARAJEVA ZA SEBE JE VOLIO REĆI DA JE ČEH RODOM, ALI SARAJLIJA IZBOROM. U SARAJEVO JE DOŠAO MLAD, SA 26 GODINA, I U NJEMU OSTAO 60 GODINA LIČNI PEČAT

OBILJEŽJA GRADA

Karlo je realizirao više stotina pro� jekata, zgrade koje su danas zaštićeni nacionalni spomenici Bosne i Hercegovine i obilježja grada, što svakako čini jedan zavidan dio karijere jednog od najvećih graditelja svoga vremena, bez kojeg grad ne bi izgledao ovako kako danas izgleda. Zalagao se za očuvanje historijskog dijela grada i predlagao izgradnju novih dijelova od Koševa prema Sarajevskom polju. Dao je svoj lični pečat i veliki doprinos urbanizaciji i izgradnji Sarajeva za vrijeme austrougarske okupacije.

Njegovo najznačajnije djelo je zgrada Zemaljskog muzeja, čuvara bh. kulturno-historijske zaostavštine osnovana 1888, a izgrađena u neorenesansnom stilu 1913. godine. U četiri paviljona ove najstarije naučne i kulturne ustanove ovog tipa u BiH čuvaju se tri miliona enormno vrijednih eksponata, koji predstavljaju historiju i identitet naše zemlje.

Pečat je ostavio i na jednom od najljepših dijelova grada - u sarajevskom naselju Marijin Dvor. Paržik je preradio projekat nepoznatog auto-

ra za crkvu koja je trebala biti izgrađena u Rimu, ali je umjesto italijanske prijestolnice sagrađena u srcu Sarajeva u periodu od 1936. do 1940. godine. Crkva se danas zove Sveti Josip, a trg ispred crkve simbolično Trg Karla Paržika. Na Marijin-Dvoru je projektirao i palaču u neorenesansnom i klasicističkom stilu koju je svojoj ženi Mariji podigao August Braun u periodu od 1885. do 1889. godine. Zgrada je izgrađena kao stambeno-poslovna jedinica s centralnim dvorištem koje je bilo nominirano za Europsku nagradu za gradski javni prostor 2016. godine.

PSEUDOMARSKI STIL Paržik je u Sarajevu sagradio i nekoliko sakralnih objekata, poput aškenaske sinagoge, jedine aktivne sinagoge danas u našoj zemlji. Ovaj sakralni objekt gradio je u pseudomarskom stilu u periodu od 1878. do 1901. godine, stoga je to prvi jevrejski objekt koji je izgrađen u tom stilu, ali s plemenitom namjerom da podsjeti na istočnjačko porijeklo Aškenaza koji su u Sarajevo došli nakon 1878. godine. Njegov prvi realizirani objekat također je jedna vrsta sakralnog. Naime, 1887. godine u istom stilu Paržik je sagradio i današnju zgradu Fakulteta islamskih nauka na Baščaršiji, bogato je ukrasivši, prenijevši na nju elemente i detalje skupljene iz raznih regionalnih škola islamske umjetnosti. Njegov drugi značajan projekat, također u pseudomaurskom stilu, zgrada sarajevskog simbola - Vijećnica. Vijećnicu je Paržik zamislio u obliku jednakostraničnog trokuta na čijim se krajevima nalaze kružni tornjevi pokriveni kupolama, smatrajući kako oblik zgrade uvjetuje oblik parcele i želeći da od nje napravi monumentalnu potkupolnu građevinu. Kako Paržik nije želio ispuniti zahtjeve tadašnjeg mini-

U Sarajevu je Paržik stekao i prijatelje, među kojima je najznačajniji mađarski arhitekta Josip Vancaš koji je poput njega udahnuo dušu Sarajevu. Zajedno su projektirali Vakufsku palaču, a Paržik mu je pomagao i na drugim objektima, među kojima najpoznatija Katedrala Srca Isusova u Sarajevu. starstva, zgradu su po izmijenjenom projektu radili Aleksandar Wittek i Ćiril Iveković.

GRANDIOZNA DJELA Monumentalno djelo mu je i zgrada Akademije likovnih umjetnosti koja je najprije bila Evangelistička crkva izgrađena 1899. godine u romansko-bizantijskom stilu. Paržik je projektom osmislio i prostor bogosluženja u centralnoj potkupolnoj građevini. Krila objekta sagrađena su oko 1911. godine.

Zatim je u duhu historicizma projektirao i Palaču pravde 1914. godine na lijevoj obali rijeke Miljacke, u blizini tadašnje Evangelističke crkve. Pravosudna palača je bila potrebna za rješavanje raznih pravnih i političkih pitanja. U njoj je danas smještena zgrada Pravnog fakulteta i Rektorata Univerziteta u Sarajevu. U njenoj blizini nalazi se i Narodno pozorište koje je prema Paržikovom projektu izgrađeno 1897. godine. U Titovoj ulici nekada su bile stare bosanske kuće koje su srušili Austrougari 1893. godine, a prva zgrada koja je niknula na tom dijelu grada je Landens ili zgrada Zemaljske banke, danas poznatija kao Vječna vatra. Grandioznu zgradu između dvije glavne ulice projektirao je Paržik, ali i moderni hotel nedaleko od njega. Hotel Europu je prema Paržikovom projektu sagradio Gligorije Jeftanović 1882. godine, a narednih 110 godina bio je to jedan od najuglednijih hotela u Sarajevu u koji su svraćali pjesnici, umjetnici i političari. Umro je u Sarajevu kojeg je tako mnogo zadužio 16. juna 1942. godine. Na njegovom grobu stoji epitaf: “Ovdje počiva graditelj Sarajeva, arhitekt Karel Pařík, Čeh rodom, Sarajlija izborom. Zahvalna Bosna i Hercegovina.” 35

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Czech by Birth,

but Sarajevan by Choice CZECH-BORN ARCHITECT KAREL PAŘÍK (ALSO KNOWN AS KARL PARŽIK) MADE AN INVALUABLE CONTRIBUTION TO URBAN GROWTH AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF SARAJEVO DURING THE TIME OF THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE. HE IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE FOREMOST BUILDERS OF SARAJEVO WHO LOVED TO SAY THAT HE WAS A CZECH BY BIRTH, BUT A SARAJEVAN BY CHOICE. HE CAME TO SARAJEVO AT A YOUNG AGE, AS A 26-YEAR-OLD MAN, AND STAYED HERE FOR 60 YEARS A PERSONAL TOUCH Karel created several hundred architectural designs; nowadays, his buildings are protected national monuments in Bosnia and Herzegovina and city landmarks, which certainly makes up a considerable part of the career of one of the greatest builders of this period without whom the Sarajevo skyline would not look the way it does now. He advocated the preservation of the old part of the city and gave proposals to construct new parts of the city from Koševo to Sarajevsko polje area. He added his personal touch and made an important contribution to urban growth and the construction of Sarajevo during the Austro-Hungary occupa�tion.

CITY LANDMARKS His greatest building is the National Museum, the keeper of the cultural and historical heritage of Bosnia and Herzegovina established in 1888 and built in the Neo-Renaissance style in 1913. The four pavilions of the oldest scientific and cultural institution of its kind in the country keep three million enormously valuable items 36

displaying the country’s national he� ritage and identity. He left his mark on one of the most beautiful parts of the city too—Sarajevo’s Marijin Dvor neighbourhood. Pařík redesigned an unknown designer’s plan for a church which was supposed to be built in Rome, the Italian capital, but it was built in the heart of Sarajevo instead from 1936 to 1940. The name of the church today is Saint Joseph’s Church, and the square in front of the church symbolically bears the name of Karel Pařík. In the Marijin Dvor neighbourhood he also designed a palace in the Neo-Renaissance and Classicist architectural styles and August Braun had it erected for his wife Marija from 1885 to 1889. It is a residential and commercial building with an interior courtyard nominated for the 2016 European Prize for Urban Public Space.

NEO-MOORISH STYLE Pařík built a few religious edifices such as the Sarajevo Ashkenazi Synagogue, the only functioning synagogue in the country at present. This Neo-Moorish place of worship

was built from 1878 to 1901, so it is the first Jewish building built in this architectural style. The idea behind it was a noble one: to remind people of the Eastern origins of Ashkenazi Jews who came to Sarajevo after 1878. The first building constructed according to his design was also a kind of a place of worship. Namely, in 1887 Pařík built the richly decorated Neo-Moorish present-day seat of the Faculty of Islamic Studies in the Baščaršija neighbourhood. He integrated into the design elements and decorative features drawn from various regional Islamic art schools. His second notable Neo-Moorish design is the symbol of Sarajevo: the City Hall. He envisioned the ground plan of the building as an equilateral triangle with round-shaped towers at the corners of the triangle with a domed portico because he believed that the shape of the building was dictated by the shape of the plot and he wanted to design a monumental domed edifice. Since he would not conform to the requirements of the competent authorities at the time, Aleksandar Wittek and Ćiril Iveko� -

vić reworked the detailed blueprints and the City Hall was constructed according to their modified design.

GRANDIOSE BUILDINGS Yet another one of his monumental buildings is the Academy of Fine Arts, which was originally intended to serve as an evangelical church. It was constructed in 1899 in the Romanesque-Byzantine style. Pařík's design plan included a space for religious services in the central domed area. Additional wings of the building were completed arou� nd 1911.

Pařík made friends in Sarajevo. The most prominent of them was Hungarian architect Josip Vancaš who breathed life and soul into Sarajevo. They designed the Waqf Palace together, and Pařík assisted Vancaš in designing other buildings, the most notable of which was the Sacred Heart Cathedral in Sarajevo.

In the spirit of historicism, in 1914 he designed the Palace of Justice on the left bank of the Miljacka River, near the then evangelical church. The Palace of Justice was needed for settling all sorts of legal and political matters. Nowadays, it is the seat of the Faculty of Law and the Chancellery of the University of Sarajevo. The National Theatre, built in 1897 in line with Pařík's design plan, is situated nearby. Titova Street used to be dotted with old Bosnian houses, but Austro-Hungarians knocked them down in 1893. The first building erected in this part of the city was Landens or the National Bank, now known as the Eternal Flame. Pařík designed not only this grandiose building situated between two high streets, but also a modern hotel close by. Gligorije Jeftanović had Hotel Europe built according to Pařík's design in 1882, and over the course of the next 110 years it has been one of the most prestigious hotels in Sarajevo frequented by poets, artists and politicians. Karel Pařík died in Sarajevo, the city that owes him so much, on 16th June 1942. The epitaph inscribed on his tombstone reads: “Here rests the builder of Sarajevo, architect Karel Pařík. Czech by birth, Sarajevan by choice. A thankful Bosnia and Herzegovina.” 37

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Muzej optičkih iluzija

u Sarajevu

MUZEJ OPTIČKIH ILUZIJA U SARAJEVU JE PRVI MUZEJ OVAKVOG KONCEPTA U BIH I VEĆI OD SVIH REGIONALNIH MUZEJA OVOG TIPA

mješten je u staroj austrougarskoj zgradi na Skenderiji u istoimenoj ulici na broju 28 i prostire se na tri sprata, odnosno na više od 300 kvadratnih metara.

možete testirati svoje kognitivne sposobnosti rješavajući raznorazne mozgalice. Iste mozgalice i još mnogo mističnih predmeta možete naći i u suvenirnici u sklopu muzeja.

MUZEJSKA POSTAVKA

Iluzije zaista predstavljaju univerzalan način zabave i komunikacije sa posmatračem, s obzirom na svoje djelovanje na ljudski um i čula. U ljudskoj je prirodi da instinktivno prate svoja čula i da im beskompromisno vjeruju, a kada se desi da se „neko“ ili „nešto“ poigra tim čulima, to je momenat u kojem ulazimo u nesvakidašnji i magični svijet izvan vremena i svakodnevnice, u svijet iluzije.

Muzejska postavka broji preko 100 eksponata u vidu slika, holograma, objekata, 3D i svjetlosnih iluzija, te čitavih prostorija, što muzej čini trenutno najvećim mu�zejem ovog tipa u regionu, u kojima ćete zaista uživati svim čulima i pritom se odlično zabaviti. Dio postavke će biti stalni, dok će se neki od eksponata povremeno rotirati kako bi se posjetioci iznova vraćali i doživjeli zabavu i osvježenje unutar muzejskog prostora. U takozvanoj „naopakoj sobi“ sa bosanskim ćilimom i drugim specifičnim predmetima iz bosanske kuće će vam se pomutiti čula i više nećete znati šta je „gore“, a šta „dole“. U UV sobi ćete se osjećati kao Petar Pan kada je izgubio svoju sjenu, a u Poker sobi odigrati partiju protiv samoga sebe. Pazite da ne gledate predugo u rotirajuće spirale, jer biste lako mogli zaboraviti na vrijeme i prostor oko sebe. Pored beskonačnih tunela, bunara bez dna i magičnog kauča, u muzeju možete zaviriti i u Playroom u kojem 38

EKSPONATI VEZANI ZA HISTORIJU GRADA Ono što ga razlikuje od drugih muzeja su eksponati vezani za historiju Sarajeva i Bosne i Hercegovine. U projekat realizacije iluzija koji se tiču bosanskohercegovačke kulture i motiva bili su uključeni i mladi bosanskohercegovački umjetnici koji su završili Akademiju likovnih umjetnosti u Sarajevu. Među njima je i jedini aktivni street-art umjetnik u BiH Kerim Mušanović koji je radio 3D ilustracije za muzej – Vučka koji sipa bosansku kafu, hodnik koji se nastavlja i sliku koja se zove „Raspadanje“.

Museum of Optical Illusions in Sarajevo

THE MUSEUM OF OPTICAL ILLUSIONS IN SARAJEVO IS THE FIRST MUSEUM OF ITS KIND IN B&H AND THE LARGEST REGIONAL MUSEUM OF THIS SORT.

t is situated in an old Austro-Hungarian building at Skenderija in the street of the same name at no. 28, and stretches out across three floors, i.e. across over 300 square meters.

MUSEUM COLLECTION The museum collection contains over 100 exhibits in the form of images, holograms, objects, 3D and light illusions and entire rooms, which currently makes the museum the largest of its kind in the region; these exhibits will bring all your senses to life and you will have a great time. A part of the collection will be permanent, while some of the exhibits will occasionally be rotated, so that visitors can return and experience the fun and refreshment within the museum space. In the so called „upside down room“ with the Bosnian carpet and other specific items from a Bosnian ho-

use, you will lose your senses and won’t know what is „up“, or „down“. In the UV room, you will feel like Peter Pan when he lost his shadow, and in the Poker room you will play a game against yourself. Be careful not to look at the rotating spirals for too long, as you could easily lose track of time and space around you. Apart from never-ending tunnels, bottomless wells and the magical couch, you can also peek into the museum’s Playroom, where you can test your cognitive capabilities by solving various brain teasers. You can find those brain teasers and many other mystical items in the souvenir shop, which is part of the museum. Illusions truly represent a universal way of entertaining and communicating with the observer, considering their effects on the human mind and senses. It is part of human nature to instinctively follow one’s senses

and trust them wholeheartedly, and when it happens that „someone“ or „something“ plays with those senses, that is the moment when we enter the unusual and magical world outside of time and everyday life, the world of illusions.

EXHIBITS RELATED TO THE HISTORY OF THE CITY What sets this museum apart from other museums are the exhibits related to the history of Sarajevo and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Young Bosnian-Herzegovinian artists who graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Sarajevo were part of the project on the realization of illusions related to B&H culture and its motifs. One of them is the only active street artist in B&H, Kerim Mušanović, who did the 3D illustrations for the museum – of Vučko pouring Bosnian coffee, a never-ending hallway and an image titled „Falling apart“. 39

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Top Ten Reasons

to Visit the Vicinity of Trnovo Autor/Author: Semra Hodžić

VRHOVI SA KOJIH POGLED PUCA NA MITSKA PLANINSKA PROSTRANSTVA, BISTRE VODE, ŽIVOPISNI PAŠNJACI, ČIST ZRAK I NETAKNUTA PRIRODA, SAMO SU NEKI OD MNOGOBROJNIH RAZLOGA ZA UŽIVANJE U LJEPOTAMA TRNOVAČKE REGIJE

PEAKS WITH STUNNING VIEWS OF VAST AND MYTHICAL MOUNTAINOUS AREAS, CLEAR WATERS, LIVELY PASTURES, CLEAN AIR AND PRISTINE NATURE ARE JUST SOME OF A WIDE RANGE OF REASONS FOR YOU TO ENJOY THE SITES OF THE WONDERFUL TRNOVO REGION

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

1. PLANINARSKE TURE MITSKIM PREDJELIMA

1. MYTHICAL MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPE TOURS

Vrhovi Bjelašnice, Igmana, Treskavice i Visočice neodoljivo privlače planinare. Kako i ne bi, kada se sa nekoliko atraktivnih vrhova vide nestvarni predjeli koji oduzimaju dah. Planinari mogu birati između nekoliko tura za pješačiti, a na svakoj od njih naići će na jedinstvene prirodne atrakcije: vodopade, vrela, pećine ili fantastične vidikovce. Predah mogu potražiti u nekom od brojnih planinskih domova gdje se služi domaća hrana.

2. BICIKLOM ZA ISKONSKI DOŽIVLJAJ PLANINE

2. CYCLE TO EXPLORE PRISTINE MOUNTAINS

Za ljubitelje brdskog biciklizma Bjelašnica je neizostavna tačka jer na njoj osjete iskonski doživljaj planine. Staze su uglavnom asfaltirane, s rijetkim dionicama makadamskog puta. Kojom god stazom da krenete, da li preko Dejčića prema Trnovu, ili spust do Šabića, bilo da se odluče krenuti prema kanjonu Rakitnice ili dolinom Tušilskog potoka do Sinanovića, ili čak do Visočice prema Neretvi, iskustvo vožnje biciklom ovim predjelima pamtit će cijeli život.

For mountain biking aficionados, Bjelašnica is a must because it allows them to explore pristine mountains. Routes run mainly over asphalt roads and rare macadam paths. Whichever route you opt for, be it from Dejčići to Trnovo, or downhill to Šabići, or towards Rakitnica Canyon or through Tušila Stream valley to Sinanovići, or even from Visočica Mountain to Neretva River, you will remember what it felt like to cycle through these landscapes for the rest of your life

3. BRANJE LJEKOVITOG BILJA, BOBIČASTOG VOĆA I GLJIVA Od proljeća do jeseni nepregledni pašnjaci u trnovačkoj regiji čudesno ožive. Na njima možete naći po jedan cvijet ili list za svaku boljku. Izdvojite jedan dan za izlet i šetnju nekom od lokalnih planina, naberite ljekovitih trava ili bobičastog voća, pa od njih spremite čajeva za zime ili sokova, džemova, pekmeza itd. Područje je bogato i gljivama, a poseban gušt pričinjava prošetati i ubrati sebi ručak.

The pull of the peaks of Bjelašnica, Igman, Treskavica and Vsočica mountains has proved irresistible to hikers. Rightly so, since a few attractive summits offer breath-taking views of out-of-this-world landscapes. Hikers have several walking trails to choose from each providing ample opportunity to discover remarkable natural attractions: waterfalls, springs, caves or viewpoints. A wide array of mountain lodges serving local cuisine is ideal for taking a break from hiking.

3. PICKING MEDICINAL HERBS, BERRIES AND MUSHROOMS From spring to autumn, landscapes with endless pastures in the Trnovo Region miraculously spring to life. There you can find a flower or leaf to remedy any ailment. Take a day to go to a picnic or hike a local mountain, pick medicinal herbs to make tea with or berries to make jam and marmalade for the winter. There are a lot of mushrooms in the area, and it feels quite delightful to go out there and pick some mushrooms for lunch.

4. JEZERA NA TRESKAVICI

4. TRESKAVICA LAKES

Na 1.500 metara nadmorske visine nalaze se „gorske oči“ planine Treskavice, njen najljepši ukras, prekrasna glacijalna jezera koja su tu još od ledenog doba. Jezera su prava prirodna rijetkost sa specifičnom florom i faunom. Treskavica inače ima vrela koliko dana u godini, a jezera čak deset. Njihove kristalno čiste vode i nedirnutu okolinu dugo ćete pamtiti.

Situated at an altitude of 1,500 metres above sea level, Treskavica Mountains’s most beautiful feature are its “mountain eyes”, stunning glacial lakes dating back to the Ice Age. They are a rare natural phenomenon with distinctive flora and fauna. Treskavica has as many springs as there are days in a year. Their crystal clear waters and intact surroundings is something to remember for a long time..

5. PRIRODNI FENOMEN „KAZANI“ Najpoznatije trnovsko izletište nalazi se u blizini mjesta Turovi gdje rijeka Željeznica, nakon nekoliko stotina metara mirnog toka, tiho ulazi u uski kanjon koji je sama izdubila. Uz ovaj jedinstveni prirodni fenomen nalazi se uređeno izletište, na mjestu gdje je rijeka napravila krečnjačku gredu – kazan, kroz koji voda pjeni, ključa baš kao u nekom velikom kazanu na vatri i zbog ove neobične pojave ljudi su ovo mjesto nazvali „Kazani”. Ljeti ćete na ovom izletištu zateći i kupače.

5. “KAZANI” NATURAL PHENOMENON The most popular outing site in Trnovo is situated near the settlement of Turovi where Željeznica River, after several hundred meters of calm flow, silently flows into a narrow canyon it has dug. Next to this unique natural phenomenon, there is a well-maintained outing site. It is where the river has dug a round limestone depression, a cauldron or pot in its bottom, where the water seems to be bubbling up and boiling just like in a large cauldron over an open fire. This is why people named this place “Kazani”. In summertime, you will come across swimmers here. 43

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

6. TRAGOVI HISTORIJE Kao nijemi svjedoci da se život nekada ovdje odvijao i u srednjem vijeku danas podsjećaju kameni spavači na nekoliko nekropola stećaka: u Prečanima, Ledićima, Šabićima, Umoljanima , Delijašu... Zaštićene su kao nacionalni spomenici Bosne i Hercegovine. Omiljene su objektivima fotoaparata, među kojima su najposebnije one koji sa njih promatraju kišu perzeida, koji se iz ovih krajeva najljepše vide. U gustoj borovoj šumi na igmanskom Proskoku zaostao je i jedan stari tenk iz rata. O historiji ovog kraja govore još i spomenici NOB-a, stara austrougarska kasarna i žandarmerijska stanica u Trnovu itd.

6. TRACES OF HISTORY Stony sleepers at various tombstone necropolis sites are silent witnesses that remind us of what it was like to live here in the Middle Ages. These sites are: Prečani, Ledići, Šabići, Umoljani, Delijaš and others. They are protected national monuments in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Cameras love these sites, but those among them that offer the best view of the Perseid meteor shower are most sought after. A thick pine forest in Igman’s Proskok area is home to an old army tank left behind after the 1992-1995 war. Traces of history in this area also include monuments commemorating those who fell in the People’s Liberation Struggle, old Austro-Hungarian Military Barracks, a gendarmerie station in Trnovo, etc.

7. KANJON RAKITNICE Ukoliko ste avanturističkog duha, jedan od najdubljih klanaca Evrope i mjesto gdje caruje netaknuta priroda za vas će biti pravi izbor. Jedna od najvećih pritoka Neretve, rijeka Rakitnica stvorila je 26 km dug, čudesno privlačan i teško pristupačan kanjon koji razdvaja planine Bjelašnicu i Visočicu, a spaja Bosnu i Hercegovinu. Nesvakidašnja ljepota, čiste vode i veličanstveni vodopadi uvjerit će vas kako je ovaj kanjon pravo čudo divlje prirode i jedna od najznačajnijih prirodnih znamenitosti BiH.

8. UMOLJANI, SELO IZ LEGENDI Bjelašnička sela su zaista posebna, naročito Umoljani smješteni na 1.275 metara nadmorske visine. Već po samom ulasku u selo imate šta vidjeti: nekropolu stećaka, stare vodenice, džamiju sa limenim krovom koja je zaštićena kao nacionalni spomenik BiH. Dok se penjete ka Studenom potoku koji je uz selo vezan zanimljivom legendom o aždaji, naići ćete na katune – autentične pastirske kolibe u kojima i danas borave mještani, a u kojima možete kupiti domaće proizvode. Rado će vam ispričati i legendu, te pokazati stijenu u kojoj se aždaja skamenila.

7. RAKITNICA CANYON

8. THE LEGEND OF UMOLJANI VILLAGE

If you are an adventure enthusiast, one of Europe’s deepest gorges surrounded by intact nature is the perfect place for you to explore. Rakitnica River, one of the largest tributaries of the Neretva River, has cut a 26-kilometer long extraordinarily attractive and hardly accessible canyon separating the massif of Visočica and that of Bjelašnica, and connecting Bosnia with Herzegovina. You will realise that this exceptionally beautiful area with clear waters and glorious waterfalls is a genuine miracle in the wilderness and one of the most important natural landmarks in B&H.

Villages scattered across Bjelašnica Mountain are quite unique, particularly Umoljani Village situated at an altitude of 1,275 metres above sea level. There is plenty to see at the very entrance: a medieval tombstone necropolis, old mills, and a mosque with a tin roof which was declared a national monument in B&H. As you ascend to Studeni potok (Cold Creek), which shares an interesting legend with Umoljani Village involving a dragon, you will come across katuni—authentic shepherd huts still inhabited by the locals offering home-made products for you to buy. They will be happy to tell you about the legend and show you the stone on the hill the dragon was petrified in.

9. A NIGHT AT A HOTEL UNDER A MILLION LITTLE STARS Imagine looking up through a tent window and seeing each little star in the night sky and waking up in the morning to the sounds of birds chirping and the refreshing scent of morning dew of mountain grass and flowers. No hotel in the world can offer you such spirit-lifting and unwinding experience as this one can while you are camping out on one of the many hillocks and meadows in Bjelašnica Mountain you pitch your tent at. The most popular camping area is Bare-Bijela where you can also grill food.

9. NOĆ U HOTELU S MILION ZVJEZDICA Zamislite kako kroz prozor šatorskog okna na nebu vidite svaku zvjezdicu, a ujutro se budite uz cvrkut ptica i miris svježe rose s planinskih trava i cvijeća. Nema hotela na svijetu s takvom ponudom, koje krijepi dušu i odmara kao mir dok kampujete na nekom od mnogobrojnih brežuljaka i livada na Bjelašnici na kojima se može razapeti šator. Najomiljenije mjesto za kampovanje je područje Bare-Bijela, izuzetno pogodno i za roštiljadu.

10. UZBUĐENJE ZA SVE GENERACIJE Za sve ljubitelje adrenalina Bjelašnica je pravi raj. Izuzetno je pogodna za paraglajding, iskustvo koje će vam ponuditi da istinski doživite duh planine. Potražite ovu atrakciju u Babinom Dolu! I stariji i mlađi mogu se okušati ziplineom u Javorovom dolu ili u selu Lukavac. A Bjelašnicom se možete još provozati i quadovima. Doživljaj Bjelašnice i Igmana na jedan savim drugačiji način omogućava panoramsko razgledanje žičarom. Na Bjelašnici svaka druga korpa ima i držače za bicikle, tako da je i za ljubitelji biciklizma osiguran prevoz do vrha olimpijske ljepotice.

10. SOMETHING EXCITING FOR ANY GENERATION Bjelašnica Mountain is a true heaven for all adrenaline junkies. It has the perfect terrain for paragliding which allows you to truly feel the spirit of the mountain yourself. Babin Do is an excellent starting po-

int for paragliding! Both older and younger generations can try out the zip-line at Javorov Do or Lukavac Village. You can also go for a quad ride through Bjelašnica. A scenic ride on a chairlift allows you to discover Bjelašnica and Igman mountains in a completely different way. Bike carriers are installed on every other chair so cycling enthusiasts do not need to worry about transporting their bikes to the summit of the Olympic mountain.

Adresa/Address: Trnovo 36, 71223 Delijaš Telefon/Telephone: 033/586-700

opcina.trnovo@bih.net.ba

Olovo/Zeleni Vir

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Najljepša mjesta za kupanje u Bosni i Hercegovini

TOKOM LJETNIH VRUĆINA SAMO RAZMIŠLJAMO O TOME KAKO SE RASHLADITI I KAKO UZ VODU BEZBRIŽNO PROVODITI SLOBODNE DANE. LJETO NA KRAJU UVIJEK PAMTIMO PO TIM USPOMENAMA KOJE SMO STVORILI NA NEKOJ OD ČAROBNIH DESTINACIJA Autor: Semra Hodžić

ećina nas svakako žudi za morskom obalom - a naš Neum ima prelijepe plaže, no Bosna i Hercegovina bogata je sa još mnogo destinacija na kojima se možete osvježiti, sunčati i uživati u toku ljetnih mjeseci.

BORAČKO I JABLANIČKO JEZERO Prekrasno prirodno jezero u podnožju planine Prenj - Boračko je udaljeno 20 kilometara od Konjica. Omiljeno je izletište i odmaralište domaćih i stranih turista, prvenstveno zbog bistre zelene vode ovog 46

Ostrožac/Jablaničko jezero

Bihać/Rijeka Una

Tuzla/Panonska jezera

planinskog jezera, prijatnog za kupanje, odmor i rekreaciju. Pored jezera možete kampovati i roštiljati. Najbolje mjesto je uz restoran, pokraj potoka i sa dosta raskošne hladovine. Uzvodno od Konjica nalazi se još jedno jezero, umjetno ali i dalje prelijepo - Jablaničko. Prostire se na 13 kvadratnih kilometara od Konjica do Jablanice, uz magistralni put M-17, i privlači kupače, ribolovce i sve ljubitelje sportova na vodi. Na oba jezera možete kampirati, splavariti, iznajmiti neku od vikendica ili spavati u nekom od lokalnih eko-sela.

JEZERA KOD JAJCA Okolina Jajca bogata je jezerima, i sva su pogodna za kupanje. Najpoznatije je Plivsko jezero koje pruža pravo osvježenje u ljetnim danima.

Na ovom jezeru možete iznajmljiti pedaline, čamac, kajak, igrati odbojke na pijesku ili jednostavno uživati u prekrasnom prirodnom ambijentu. Nedaleko od jezera, prema Bihaću, smještena su i jezera Veliki i Mali Đol sa toplom vodom u kojoj uživaju kupači, i bogata ribom što pogoduje ribolovcima. Na ovim jezerima možete kampovati ili iznajmiti neku vikendicu poput kuće “Mali Đol” u kojoj ćete zasigurno uživati.

KUPALIŠTA NA UNI Bilo koju lokaciju koju odaberete za osvježenje u Nacionalnom parku “Una” nećete pogriješiti, no jedne od omiljenih su Štrbački buk ili Martin Brod. Ukoliko ste avanturističkog duha i ljubitelj adrenalina, svakako se okušajte u raftingu na Uni koji će vam dugo ostati urezan u sjećanje. Na slapovima ove smaragdne rijeke

može se i kupati, skakati sa stijena ili mostova, ili jednostavno uživati u netaknutoj prirodi.Posebno atraktivni posljednjih godina su i Japodski otoci, smješteni su u srcu prirode i najdubljem dijelu teritorije Nacionalnog parka Una, udaljeni 16 kilometara od Bihaća. Pet unskih otočića povezuje Japodske otoke, te iz zraka čini očima najljepšu sliku – srcoliku.

PANONSKA JEZERA U TUZLI Popularna Panonska jezera u Tuzli svake godine privlače veliki broj posjetilaca. Jezera su poznata i po tome što imaju ljekovita svojstva zbog sadržaja soli i drugih minerala. Unutar kompleksa se nalaze plaže i uređeni prostori za zabavu djece i prostor za fitnes. Posljednje jezero dizajnirano je u formi dva manja i spojena jezera s prelivnicom i mno47

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Jajce/Plivsko jezero

go adrenalinske zabave, vodenim toboganima, hidromasažerima i vodenim gejzirom.

IZLETIŠTA NA DRINI Drina je hladna i brza rijeka, ali svejedno svake godine privlači veliki broj kupača, ribolovaca zbog svog bogatog ribljeg fonda, kajakaša, a pogodna je i za splavarenje. Najomiljenije kupalište na Drini je Žanj, gradska plaža Grada Goražda smještena na maloj riječnoj adi, a na Drini se može kupati i na još nekoliko lokalnih izletišta oko ovog podrinjskog grada.

BANJALUČKA KUPALIŠTA Banja Luka ima sve što je potrebno za ljetno osvježenje: krasne plaže uz rijeku Vrbas, ali i svoje među građanima popularne bazene s primamljivom ponudom. Mnoge generacije Banjalučana odrasle su na plažama Vrbasa. Kada pomenete Banju Luku, prva asocijacija je Vrbas, brza, hladna i hirovita rijeka. Kupanje na plaži 48

Bosna i Hercegovina je posljednjih godina, osim po prirodnim ljepotama, prepoznata i kao destinacija s bogatim izborom vodenih atrakcija - zatvorenih i otvorenih bazena, pa tako osim na jezerima, rijekama ili na našem dijelu Jadrana, osvježenje možete potražiti i na nekom od njih Abacija, ili spuštanje niz Vrbas kod Hadži-Hivzine sedre, omiljene su ljetne uspomene brojnim generacijama zaljubljenika u Vrbas. Među stanovnicima Banje Luke plaža Vrućica veoma je popularna zbog termomineralnih svojstava, to jeste miješanja tople vode iz izvora s hladnim Vrbasom. Bilo da odaberete Vrućicu, Abaciju, Studenac, gradsku plažu ili neku od brojnih neimenovanih i skrivenih “divljih plaža”, nećete pogriješiti i svakako nećete ostati ravnodušni prema šarmu Vrbasa.

ODMARALIŠTE “ZELENI VIR” KOD OLOVA Odmaralište Zeleni vir nalazi se oko

3 kilometra od centra Olova, grada koji je na oko 50 kilometara sjeveroistočno od Sarajeva, na putu koji vodi za Tuzlu. Zeleni vir je smješten na bistroj rijeci Bioštici, samo ime dovoljno govori o ljepoti ovog predjela, gdje se zelenilo bistre vode spaja s vječnim zelenilom četinara. Odmaralište je obogaćeno raznim sadržajima kao što su bazeni za djecu i odrasle opskrbljenim toplom banjskom vodom, terenom za odbojku, raznim zabavnim sadržajima za odmor i rekreaciju. Pored bazena izgrađen je i restoran gdje posjetitelji imaju priliku da uživaju pored prelijepe rijeke Bioštice u bogatoj ponudi gastronomskih specijaliteta.

Jajce/Plivsko Lake

Olovo/“Green Whirlpool”

The Best Places to Swim

in Bosnia and Herzegovina

IN THE BLISTERING HEAT OF THE SUMMER, ALL WE CAN THINK ABOUT IS HOW TO COOL OFF AND SPEND OUR DAYS OFF FROM WORK NEAR WATER WITHOUT A CARE IN THE WORLD. ULTIMATELY, WE ALWAYS CHERISH PRECIOUS MEMORIES OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS SPENT AT WONDERFUL LOCATIONS! Author: Semra Hodžić

ost of us already crave the seaside—and there are some wonderful beaches in Neum—but Bosnia and Herzegovina has many other locations where you can freshen up, sunbathe and enjoy the summer months.

enthusiasts. In close proximity of both of these lakes, you can go camping, take white-water rafting trips, rent a holiday home or spend the night at one of the local eco villages.

BORAČKO AND JABLANIČKO LAKES

Many lakes lie on the outskirts of Jajce and they are all suitable for swimming. The best-known is Plivsko Lake where you can take a refreshing dip on a hot summer day. Here, you can rent a pedal boat,

A stunning natural lake at the foot of Prenj Mountain called Boračko Lake is located 20 kilometres away from Konjic. This mountain lake is the favourite outing spot for local and foreign tourists alike primarily because of its clear, green water suitable for swimming, relaxing and recreating. You can camp out and grill food by the lake. The best spot is by the nearby restaurant, near the stream with a heavily shaded forest area. Upstream from the town of Konjic, there is another lake, an artificial one, but beautiful nonetheless—Jablaničko Lake. It extends over an area of 13 square kilometres from Jablanica to Konjic, along the M-17 highway, and attracts tourists, fishermen and watersport

PLIVSKA LAKES NEAR JAJCE

a row boat or a kayak, play beach volleyball or just enjoy gorgeous natural surroundings. Not far from Plivsko Lake, in the direction of Bihać, two beautiful lakes, Veliki and Mali Đol, are situated. Swimmers thoroughly enjoy their warm waters, while fishermen fish in their rich waters. It is possible to camp at these lakes or rent a holiday house such as “Mali Đol Villa” where you will certainly enjoy yourself.

Goražde/Drina River 49

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Bihać/Una River

SWIMMING AREAS ON THE UNA RIVER You cannot go wrong with whichever location at the “Una” National Park you choose to keep yourself cool at, but some of the most popular ones are Štrbački buk and Martin Brod. If you have an adventurous spirit and love adrenaline, make sure you give white river rafting on the Una River a try and it will be etched on your mind for a long time. The falls of this emerald green river are suitable for swimming, diving off of cliffs and bridges or simply enjoying the pristine nature. During the past few years, Japodian Islands, nestled in the heart of nature and the deepest part of the “Una” National Park, and only 16 kilometres away from Bihać, have become particularly attractive to visitors. Stunning aerial images of the Japodian Islands, a network of five little islands, reveal a lovely feature: they are heart-shaped.

PANNONIAN LAKES IN TUZLA Popular Panonnian Lakes in Tuzla draw in a massive number of tourists every year. The lakes are also wellknown for their healing properties as their waters contain salts and other minerals. In the complex, there are beaches and designated play areas for the kids, as well as fitness space. The most recently created lake was designed in the form of two smaller 50

Over the past few years, Bosnia and Herzegovina has become increasingly known not only for its natural wonders, but also for a wide variety of water attractions—indoor and outdoor swimming pools—so you can try to beat the heat both in lakes, rivers and on our stretch of land along the Adriatic Sea, and in one of these swimming pools

lakes mutually connected by an overflow ledge, and its water slides, two hydro-massage jets and a water fountain offer adrenaline-fuelled adventures for thrill-seekers.

OUTING LOCATIONS ON THE DRINA RIVER Even though Drina is a fast-moving and cold river, it still attracts a lot of swimmers, fishermen because it is rich in fish, and kayakers, but it is also suitable for rafting activities. The most popular swim spot on the Drina River is Žanj, a town be�ach in the town of Goražde nestled on a small river island. There are a few other local go-to swimming spots on the Drina near this town in the Podrinje region.

SWIMMING AREAS IN BANJALUKA Banjaluka has got all you need to cool off in the hot summer weather: wonderful beaches along the Vrbas River and highly popular swimming pools among the locals with attractive offers. Many a generation of residents of Banjaluka grew up on the beaches of the Vrbas. The mere mention of Banjaluka brings to mind images of the Vrbas, fast-flowing, cold and capricious river. Having a wonderful time at the Abacija Beach or sliding down the river near Hadži-Hivzina sedra are among the most beloved sum-

mertime memories for countless generations of the Vrbas lovers. Vrućica Beach is popular with the residents of Banjaluka and loved for its thermal mineral water springing up from the nearby thermal springs and mixing with cold water of the Vrbas River. You cannot go wrong, regardless of which beach you decide to go to: Vrućica, Abacija, Studenac, town beach or one of the many unnamed secluded “wild beaches”. They all share the river’s irresistible charm that takes a lifetime to forget.

“GREEN WHIRLPOOL” RESORT NEAR OLOVO The Green Whirlpool resort is around three kilometres from the centre of Olovo, a town situated about 50 kilometres northeast of Sarajevo, on the road leading to Tuzla. The Green Whirlpool resort is located on the clear Bioštica River. The name of the river speaks of the beauty of this region where the greenery of the clear water blends with the permanent greenery of the conifers. The resort is enriched by numerous activities such as the pools for children and adults, supplied with warm spa water, grounds for volleyball, and various fun activities for rest and recreation. Next to the pool, there is a restaurant where visitors have the opportunity to enjoy themselves by the lovely Bioštica River with a wide variety of culinary specialties.

Nacionalni park â&#x20AC;&#x153;Unaâ&#x20AC;?

raj za ljubitelje aktivnog turizma, prirode i adrenalina National Park "Una"

a paradise for lovers of active tourism, nature and adrenalin

Telefon/Telephone: +387 37 221 528 Adresa: Bosanska 17d, 77 000 BihaÄ&#x2021; info@nationalpark-una.ba

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

kampovanje NAJSIGURNIJI NAČIN ODMORA U JEKU PANDEMIJE UKOLIKO STE AVANTURISTIČKOG DUHA, SIGURNO ĆETE SE ODLUČITI BAR DIO VAŠEG GODIŠNJEG ODMORA PROVESTI NA KAMPOVANJU. DA BI VAŠ BORAVAK U PRIRODI BIO ŠTO UGODNIJI, NEOPHODNA VAM JE OPREMA ZA KAMPOVANJE KAMPOVANJE I KORONAVIRUS Kampovanje je jedan od sigurnijih vidova rekreacije u jeku pandemije koronavirusa, no kako biste ostali sigurno trebate slijediti nekoliko praktičnih savjeta. Kupite ogrjev, led i druge stvari prije nego što dođete do kampa. Dođite sa sredstvima za čišćenje i ličnom higijenom. Obratite pažnju na društvenu distancu. Slijedite sva pravila kampa i upute za vlastitu i sigurnost drugih. To uključuje nošenje maski za lice u javnim prost o rima. Izbjegavajte kontaktne sportove. Ako imate WC, koristite svoj toalet umjes t o javnog. Uz uobičajenu opremu po n esite još dvije osnovne potrepšti n e, a to su maske i sredstva za d e zinfekciju ruku jer nikad ne znate hoćete li morati ući u trgovinu. Čak i ako mislite da nećete ni s kim komunicirati, ponesite maske!

ŠTA TREBA ZNATI? Najprije t rebate znati gdje idete kampovati i koliko je to mjesto udaljeno od n ajbliže bolnice ili ambulante. Prije odlaska na kampovanje provjerit e i vremensku prognozu, kako bist e znali šta od dodatne opreme trebate ponijeti. Kako je to ipak boravak u prirodi, budite spremni na ev e ntualne povrede – padove, ubo d e insekata ili alergijske reakcije, pa spakujte kutiju prve pomoći i putnu apoteku sa sobom.

OPREMA Izbor stva ri koje nosite na kampovanje je o d presudnog značaja da ostanete ž ivi, zdravi, suhi i sigurni. Najprije, tu je šator, a izbor zavisi od lokacije na kojoj planirate kampirati. Povedite računa da je od kvalitetnog mater i jala i dovoljno prostran. Potrebna v am je još i podloga za šator, vreća za spavanje te podloga i za nju, GPS kako se ne bi izgubili i ruksak.

Slijedite sva pravila kampa i upute za vlastitu i sigurnost drugih! Ne zaboravite i na adekvatnu obuću i odjeću, spakujte i topliju presvlaku. Potrebna vam je još i sitna oprema, ali veoma važna: svjetiljka, zviždaljka, čakija, pinceta, lupa, sterilisane vlažne ma r amice, ogledalo, čekić, kombinjer k e i kanap. Ukoliko planirate nositi roštilj, ponesite i ugalj, hepo kock e , ali ponesite i plinski uređaj ili kuhalo kako ne biste morali pali t i roštilj da pripremite sebi kafu. Ponesite posuđe koje će vam biti potrebno za kafu i jela koja planirate spremati, a onda svakako i ležaljke ili stolice i stol na rasklapanje za odmor. Trebat će vam još i krpe, spužvice, kanister i toalet papir.

camping

THE SAFEST WAY TO GET SOME REST IN THE MIDST OF PANDEMIC IF YOU ARE ADVENTUROUS, THERE IS NO DOUBT YOU WILL DECIDE TO SPEND A PART OF YOUR HOLIDAY CAMPING. TO MAKE YOUR STAY IN NATURE AS ENJOYABLE AS POSSIBLE, YOU NEED TO HAVE CAMPING GEAR CAMPING AND THE CORONAVIRUS Camping is one of the safest recreational activities in the time of the Coronavirus pandemic, but to be on the safe side, you should definitely follow a few practical pieces of advice. Buy dried firewood, ice and other items before you get to a campsite. Bring your own cleaning aids and personal hygiene products. Maintain physical distance between yourself and other people. This includes wearing a face mask in public spaces. Avoid playing contact sports. If you have your own rest room use it instead of a public one. Apart from the usual items, also bring two additional ones: face ma-

Follow all camp rules and instructions for your own and the safety of others!

sks and hand sanitizers because you never know if you might need to enter a shop. Even if you believe you will not communicate with anyone, bring facemasks with you!

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW? First, you need to know where you are going to camp and how far it is from the campsite to the nearest hospital or ambulatory care clinics. Before you travel to the campsite, check the weather forecast so that you can decide if you need to bring any additional gear with you. Since you will be in nature, you need to be ready to properly treat potential injuries—falls, insect stings or allergic reactions, so make sure to pack a first-aid kit and travel medications.

GEARING UP The items you take on a camping holiday are vital for surviving and staying healthy, dry and safe. First of all, you need a tent and its type depends on the location you are

planning to camp at. Be sure to pick out a tent that will both suit the size of your camping party and that is made of high quality materials. You also need a ground sheet, a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad, a GPS de�vice and a backpack. Do not forget to pack weather appropriate clothes and footwear, and make sure to bring warmer clothes to change into. In addition, you need several smaller yet essential items: a torch, a whistle, a penknife, tweezers, a magnifying glass, sterile wet wipes, a mirror, a hammer, pliers and a rope. If you plan to use your outdoor grill at the camp, you will need charcoal and matches. It would be a good idea to bring a gas stove or camp kettle so that you would not have to light the grill just to make yourself some coffee. You also might want to bring along the dishes you may need to make coffee and cook food, and, of course, deck chairs or folding leisure chairs and tables. You will need kitchen towels and dish cloths, sponges, a canister and some toilet paper as well. 53

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

TOP 3 lokacije

za vožnju kajakom u blizini Sarajeva

PUSTOLOVINE KAJAKOM PRAVI SU GUŠT I IZAZOV ZA SVE LJUBITELJE SPORTOVA NA VODI, KAO I ONE KOJI VOLE BITI U STALNOM DOTICAJU SA NJOM. KAJAK JE SIGURNO PLOVILO S KOJIM IMATE NEOGRANIČENU SLOBODU KRETANJA I KOJI VAS MOŽE ODVESTI DO NAJNEPRISTUPAČNIJIH MJESTA. DOK GA VOZITE KROZ VAS BIJU RAZLIČITE EMOCIJE,OD POTPUNOG MIRA DO NAVALE ADRENALINA. NE ŠKODI PRIRODI, ZDRAV JE, ZABAVAN I PRELIJEP SPORT.

Amina&Nedim Blog #furajba

TOP 3 Places to Kayak Near Sarajevo KAYAKING ADVENTURES ARE A REAL TREAT AND A CHALLENGE FOR ANY WATER SPORTS ENTHUSIAST AND FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO BE NEAR AND AROUND THE WATER. KAYAK IS A SAFE WATER VESSEL ALLOWING YOU TO MOVE FREELY AND REACH EVEN THE MOST INACCESSIBLE PLACES. WHILE KAYAKING, YOU FEEL A TURMOIL OF EMOTIONS, FROM COMPLETE PEACE TO AN ADRENALINE RUSH. IT DOES NOT HARM NATURE, AND IT IS A HEALTHY, FUN AND LOVELY SPORT. Autor / Author: Amina Kučuk 54

osna i Hercegovina ima neke od najljepših, najraznovrsnijih i najsigurnijih kajakaških destinacija na svijetu, a samo u blizini Sarajeva nalaze se tri lokacije do kojih možete dobaciti, baš kao i mi, čak i radnim danima poslije posla i uživati u vožnji kajakom. Naše top 3 lokacije za vožnju kajakom u blizini Sarajeva su:

JABLANIČKO JEZERO Vjerovatno najbliža lokacija Sarajevu i ona koju redovno posjećujemo rad-

nim danima nakon posla. Uglavnom nam treba sat vremena i 10 KM za gorivo, što je isto kao i da smo izašli u grad na piće. Kao i svaki naš izbor, ima mnogo plaža i prilaza, a naša najdraža je u Čelebićima.

BORAČKO JEZERO Gotovo neizostavno jezero za sve one koji žive blizu. Do Boračkog jezera je potrebno malo više vremena nego do Jablaničkog, a ulaz na samo jezero se plaća 5 KM i radi do 20 sati. Ovo je lokacija koju moj momak Nedim voli posjećivati zajedno

sa svojim prijateljima, vjerovatno zato što je ovo “najživlji“ izbor i tu su uvijek “derneci“.

RAMSKO JEZERO Da biste došli do Ramskog jezera, trebate odvojiti jedan cijeli dan. Jezero je u neposrednoj blizini grada Prozora, a nudi veliki broj skrivenih plaža i napuštenih ostrva do kojih dolazite čamcem, kajakom, kanuom, brodicom ili splavom. Baš na ovom jezeru je ispunjen moj san, a to je piknik na kariranoj dekici sa lijepim pogledom i mjestom samo za nas dvoje.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

osnia and Herzegovina has got some of the loveliest, most diverse and safest kayaking locations in the world, and there are three such locations near Sarajevo you can easily head out to, just like we can, even after work on weekdays, and enjoy the ride. Our top 3 places:

JABLANIČKO LAKE This is probably the closest kayaking location from Sarajevo. We regularly frequent it after work on weekdays. 56

It takes an hour or so to reach it and you need to spare BAM 10 for petrol, which is the same amount you spend on an outing in town. There are plenty of beaches and access points on the lake, as is usually the case with our recommendations, and our favourite one is in Čelebići.

BORAČKO LAKE This is a must visit location for anyone living in the vicinity of Boračko Lake. It takes a little longer to reach compared to Jablaničko Lake, but the entrance fee costs BAM 5 and it is open until 8 p.m. My

boyfriend Nedim loves to visit Boračko Lake with his friends probably because it is the most “lively” place with the best parties around.

RAMSKO LAKE You need a whole day to get to Ramsko Lake. It is in close proximity to the town of Prozor and features a large number of hidden beaches and uninhabited islands you can access by boat, kayak, canoe, skiff or raft. This is where a dream of mine came true—a picnic on a checked blanket with wonderful views of the lake and a place for the two of us.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

NAJBOLJA MJESTA ZA

splavarenje

U BIH

U VRELIM LJETNIM DANIMA, POSEBAN GUŠT DOMAĆIM I STRANIM TURISTIMA U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI NUDI SPLAVARENJE. NA BRODICI SA OTVORENOM PLATFORMOM OTISNUSTI SE NIZ VODE, OSJETITI NEUKROTIVU SNAGU NAJLJEPŠIH BH. RIJEKA I MIR JEZERA JEDINSTVEN JE DOŽIVLJAJ KOJEM ĆETE SE UVIJEK RADO VRAĆATI. SVE OD UNE PA DO DRINE, TURISTIČKE SU DESTINACIJE NA KOJEM MOŽETE POTRAŽITI IZNAJMLJIVAČE SPLAVOVA I OTISNUSTI SE NA PRAVU LJETNU AVANTURU. Autor: Semra Hodžić 58

THE BEST

Rafting Spots

IN B&H

ON HOT SUMMER DAYS, LOCAL AND FOREIGN TOURISTS IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA PARTICULARLY ENJOY RAFTING. EMBARKING DOWN A RIVER IN AN OPEN-PLATFORM RUBBER BOAT, FEELING THE WILD FORCE OF THE MOST GORGEOUS RIVERS IN B&H AND THE CALM OF ITS LAKES IS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE YOU WILL ALWAYS HAPPILY RETURN TO. ALL THE WAY FROM UNA TO DRINA, THERE ARE TOURIST DESTINATIONS WITH RAFTS TO RENT AND SET SAIL ON A REAL SUMMER ADVENTURE. Author: Semra Hodžić 59

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SPLAVARANJE NA JABLANIČKOM JEZERU Uživanje u rajskim ljepotama Jablaničkog jezera sa splava ne može se opisati riječima. Već na najpopularnijoj jablaničkoj plaži Peta možete iznajmiti poseban splav kojim se možete odvesti na sredinu jezera i kupati tamo gdje nikoga nema, otisnusti se do brane ili poznatog bh. Golden Gatea – visećeg mosta u Ostrošcu, i sve to dok uživate okruženi fascinantnom prirodom. Na splavu ćete uživati i u tradicionalnim bh. specijalitetima, a možete doživljaj upotpuniti i mirisom specijaliteta sa roštilja.

RAFTING ON THE JABLANIČKO LAKE There are no words to describe the pleasure you feel rafting on Jablaničko Lake’s heaven-like beauty. You can rent out a special raft at Peta, the most popular beach on the lake, head out to the middle of the lake and swim all you want as there is nobody else around, swim to the dam or all the way to the renowned B&H Golden Gate—the suspension bridge in Ostrožac, all the while you are surrounded by fascinating landscapes. On a raft, you will also get to enjoy traditional B&H culinary specialties, while the aroma of grilled food adds to the experience.

Kontakt/Contact: Rent-a-boat Jablanica lake; Telefon/Telephone: 060/30-30-882; E-mail: jablanicalake@gmail.com 60

SPLAVARENJE NA DRINI Sezona splavarenja na Drini jedinstven je turistički brend. Najpopularnija tura splavom vodi od Ustikoline do Goražda, i duga je 25 kilometara, a traje i od četiri do pet sati u zavisnosti od vodostaja Drine i dodatnih aktivnosti poput ribarenja, plivanja u osvježavajućoj tirkizno plavoj vodi rijeke, vožnji kajakom ili biciklom, sunčanja na splavu ili na obalama Drine na pješčanim i šljunkovitim plažama, ili mirisnim cvijetnim livadama itd. Uz splavarenje neizostavna je i bogata gastroponuda, s posebnim domaćim specijalitetom ovog kraja – ribljom čorbom.

RAFTING ON THE DRINA RIVER Rafting season on the Drina River is a one of-a-kind tourism brand. The most popular rafting trip takes you down from Ustikolina to Goražde. It is 25 kilometres long and takes four to five hours to complete depending on the water level and additional activities you can choose from such as fishing, swimming in the refreshing turquoise river waters, kayaking or cycling, sunbathing on a raft or on the banks of the Drina River with sandy and pebbly beaches or fragrant flowery meadows. Apart from rafting, you have got to try culinary specialties on offer, including a unique local specialty—fish stew.

Kontakt/Contact: Obner d.o.o.; Telefon/Telephone: 061/136-903

SPLAVARENJE NA UNI Otkad postoji svijeta i vijeka, i Une, u ovom kraju postoji i splavarenje. Na Japodskim otocima - srcolikim unskim otočićima nadomak Bihaća tradicija splavarenja i danas je živa i zaista predstavlja nevjerovatno iskustvo, pa je tako uz rafting, noćenje u kućici na drvetu i odmaranje u netaknutoj prirodi, vožnja splavom jedna od stvari koje morate isprobati kada ste već tu. Uvijek vedri krajiški skiperi pokazat će vam sve ljepote koje ovaj kraj nudi.

RAFTING ON THE UNA RIVER Dating back to the earliest existence of humankind and the Una River, people have rafted in this area. On Japodski islands—the heart-shaped river islets just outside Bihać—the old rafting tradition is still quite widespread. It really is quite a remarkable experience. Apart from rafting, spending the night in a tree house and relaxing in pristine nature, riding a boat is one of those things you simply have to try out once you are here. Always cheerful, the skippers in Krajina will show you all there is to see.

Kontakt: Una-Aqua Centar; Telefon: 063/141-414; 061/604-313; E-mail: info@una-aqua.com 61

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

SPLAVARENJE NA SANI Na obalama rijeke Sane u Sanskom Mostu, nadomak Hamzibegove džamije, smjestio se simpatični Frully’s bar, idealno mjesto za bijeg od gradske buke. Iz ovog bara možete se „lađom“ otisnuti niz Sanu. Splav je natkriven i vrlo je jednostavan čak i za samostalno upravljanje pitomom rijekom, zbog čega će vam iskustvo uživanja u ovom očaravajućem krajoliku biti posebnije. U baru je moguće naručiti i hranu i piće za splav, a sama vožnja traje sat vremena. Ukoliko ste sretni pa nema puno gužve, na splavu možete uživati dok vam ne dosadi – a sigurno neće.

RAFTING ON THE SANA RIVER On the banks of the Sana River in Sanski Most, a heartbeat away from Hamzibegova Mosque, the quirky bar called Frully’s Bar is nestled. It is an ideal place to escape the hustle and bustle of the town centre. From here, you can embark on a boat down the Sana River. The raft is covered and one can easily steer it single-handedly down the calm river, which makes your trip through these breath-taking landscapes even more special. At the bar, you can also order food and drinks to take on the trip which takes an hour. If luck is on your side and there is not much crowd, you can enjoy you time on the raft until you get bored with it—but you certainly will not.

Kontakt/Contact: Frully’s bar; Telefon/Telephone: 061/695-408 62

SPLAVARENJE NA BUNICI Zamislite da obiđete jedno od najdubljih vrela u regiji a da se i ne skvasite? Splavarenje na jednoj od najljepših bosanskohercegovačkih rijeka, čijoj prekrasnoj plavoj boji ne treba nikakav filter, zaista je prava antistres terapija. Odlazak na splav na rijeku Bunicu sve je popularniji, a ono što posebno privlači posjetioce na njene vode je odlazak na izvor dubok 73 metra, najdublji u Evropi, gdje boje rijeke jednostavno očaravaju, a koji je ujedno i ronilačka atrakcija. Vrelo grle litice Parila, 200 metara visokog spomenika prirode bogatog florom i faunom. Na vožnji splavom dugoj sat i 15 minuta vremena poslužit će vas domaćom kafom i dati vam da se osvježite svježim voćem koja se uzgaja u ovom kraju.

RAFTING ON THE BUNICA RIVER Imagine exploring on of the deepest springs in the region without getting wet? Rafting on one of the loveliest rivers in Bosnia and Herzegovina, whose beautiful blue waters require no image filtering, is a genuine anti-stress therapy. Rafting on the Bunica River has become increasingly popular, and visitors are mainly drawn by its 73-meter deep spring, the deepest one in Europe, the colours of which are mesmerising. It is also a scuba-diving attraction. The spring is embraced by the 200-metre high nature wonder Parila cliff which is rich in flora and fauna. The rafting trip takes an hour and a half to complete. During the trip, local coffee is served and there is locally-grown fresh fruit to freshen up your day. Kontakt/Contact: Bunica boating; Telefon/Telephone: 061/293-110 63

PROMO

Panonska jezera - Tuzla

#OkvirPomoći #AssistanceFramework

Mikro i mala preduzeća su važan stup ekonomije – a pretrpjeli su velike štete radi pandemije koronavirusa i njima će biti potrebno najviše po�drške za ponovno pokretanje. NLB Banka kroz ovaj projekat želi pomoći širenju pozitivnih poduzetnič�kih priča te je zajedno s partnerima Mastercard, MaxMedia, Oslobođenje, Klix i OBN TV pokrenula kampanju #OkvirPomoći, kroz ustupljeni prostor za oglašavanje, koji će pomoći malim poduzetnici� ma, poljoprivrednicima i mikro i malim kompanijama da prevaziđu posljedice krize.

Lukomir - Bjelašnica

Micro and small enterprises form a major pillar of our economy. They have been massively impacted by the Coronavirus pandemic-induced economic downturn and will require major support to restart their operations. With this project, NLB Banka would like to help spread inspiring entrepreneurial stories throughout the community. It partnered up with Mastercard, MaxMedia, Oslobođenje, Klix and OBN TV and launched the #AssistanceFramework campaign which provides advertising opportunities for small entrepreneurs, farmers and micro and small enterprises aimed at assisting them in overcoming the crisis.

TUZLANSKA ATRAKCIJA

PANONSKA JEZERA

JEDINA SLANA JEZERA U EVROPI Panonska jezera su umjetna jezera smještena u srcu Tuzle. Predstavljaju slanu oazu i jedinstveno mjesto za kupanje i relaksaciju tokom vrelih ljetnih dana, kojim se u cijeloj Evropi može pohvaliti samo Tuzla. Unutar kompleksa se nalaze plaže, ugostiteljski objekti, uređeni prostori za zabavu djece i prostor za fitness, a ponuda iz oblasti kulturnog turizma su Arheološki park- neolitsko sojeničko naselje i Geološki muzej. U zimskom periodu, najlmađi i tinejđeri vrijeme provode na gradskom klizalištu Panonika gdje se organizuje škola osnova klizanja I puno zabavnih zimskih programa. 65

PROMO

PRIZNANJA KOJA PRATE PANONSKA JEZERA

Spoj prirodnog resursa - soli, ideje i ljudske ruke iznjedrio je Panonska jezera u centru grada koja se prostiru na površini od 75.000 m2, kao vrhunski ekološki projekat jedinstven na prostorima jugoistočne Evrope. Prvo jezero, napravljeno 2003. godine, ima ukupnu vodenu površinu od 10.140 m2, drugo, napravljeno 2008. godine, ima vodenu površinu od 5.300 m2, a treće jezero je izgrađeno 2012.godine sa vodenom površinom od 3.850 m2, površina šljun�kovitih plaža od 24.000 m2, čime je obezbjeđen dnevni kapacitet cijelog kompleksa od 17.000 gostiju. Posljednje jezero dizajnirano je u formi dva manja i spojena jezera s prelivnicom i mnogo adrenalinske zabave, vodenim toboganima, hidromasaže-

rima i vodenim gejzirom. Posebna atrakcija kompleksa su slani slapovi s vodenim kaskadama i bazenima.

ADRENALINSKI PARK I LJEKOVITA SVOJSTVA Slane slapove, kao posebnu atrakci� ju, krasi pet vodenih kaskada i dva bazena za kupanje, pri čemu inhaliranje isparenja slane vode veoma pogoduje relaksaciji od stresa, bolestima disajnih organa, glavoboljama i općem poboljšanju zdravlja i raspoloženja. Voda kojom se pune jezera predstavlja kombinaciju tehnološke vode i slane vode visoke koncentracije (300 mg/l) i uvijek je na nivou sla� nosti morske vode (35 g/l). Voda

Kompleks Panonskih jezera, kao jedina slana jezera u Evropi, sa svojom turističkom djelatnošću (atraktivnost, čistoća vode i okoliša, dobra i jeftina usluga, lokacija, veliki broj posjetilaca) presudno je uticao na donošenje odluke o nagradi Općini Tuzla u izboru za najbolji turistički grad u BiH – Zlatna ruža za tri sezone kao i nagrade Zlatna ugostiteljska kruna u kategoriji posebnog njegovanja odnosa prema tradicionalnim kulturno-historijskim vrijednostima BiH. Slana jezera dobitnici su druge nagrade 2012 UNWTO ULYSSES AWARD najvišeg priznanja Svjetske turističke organizacije Ujedinjenih nacija za inovacije u javnim politikama i upravljanju, za projekat „Valorizacija prirodnog naslijeđa – Panonska slana jezera u Tuzli“ koja se dodjeljuje za inovacije u oblasti turizma. Grad TUZLA i Panonska jezera dobitnici su Međunarodne turističke nagrade ZLATNI INTERSTAS 2013 za izuzetan doprinos razvoju turizma grada Tuzle i značajan doprinos razvoja turizma BiH u cijelosti.

Panonskog jezera sadrži i minerale poput kalcija, natrija, sumpora, joda, broma, koji stvaraju jedinstven spoj ljekovite i opuštajuće mješavine minerala, kao nijedan drugi u BiH ili šire. Udaljenost: Sarajevo - Tuzla 126.7 km

Telefon/Telephone: +387 35 246 711 kontakt@panonika.ba

TUZLA'S ATTRACTION

PANNONIAN LAKES THE ONLY SALTWATER LAKE COMPLEX IN EUROPE Pannonian Lakes are artificial lakes situated in the heart of Tuzla. Tuzla is the only European city that can brag about having a salt oasis and a unique place for swimming and relaxation in the sweltering summer heat. The complex features beaches as well as designated areas for the children and fitness space. In winter, people spend time at the Pannonika Ice Rink. The complex also has an Archaeological Park—a Neolithic Stilt House Settlement and a Geological Museum. A blend of natural resources, human hands and ideas, created the artificial Pannonian Lakes. It is a unique first-class ecological project in Southeast Europe extending over an area of 75,000 square metres. The first lake, made in 2003, covers a total surface area of 10,140 square metres; the second one, made in 2008, spans 5,300 square metres, while the third one, made in 2012, spans 3,850 square metres. Gravel beaches extend over an area of 24,000 square meters, and the daily capacity of the entire complex is 17,000 visitors. The third lake is designed in the form of two smaller lakes mutually connected

by an overflow ledge, and its water slides, two hydromassage jets and a water fountain offer adrenaline-fuelled adventures for thrill-seekers. A special attraction at the complex are the saltwater waterfalls with water cascades and swimming pools.

ADRENALINE PARK AND HEALING PROPERTIES Saltwater waterfalls, as a special attraction of the park, rush down the hill over five cascades, making a short break on their way down, as they spill over from two small swimming pools. Inhaling saltwater aerosols is known to help overcome stress, aid recovery from respiratory diseases, alleviate headaches and improve general health and well-being. The water used to fill up the lakes is a combination of technological fresh water and high concentration saltwater (300 mg/l), and it always has seawater salinity (35 g/l). In addition to salt, waters of the Pannonian Lakes contain minerals such as calcium, sodium, sulphur, iodine and bromine, creating a unique blend of healing and relaxing mixture of minerals, like no other in B&H or beyond.

AWARD-WINNING COMPLEX The tourist offer of the Pannonian Lakes complex (the attractiveness of its tourist offer, pure waters and immaculate surroundings, first-rate service at a reasonable price, a great location and a lot of visitors), the only salt lakes in Europe, has played a decisive role in the Tuzla Municipality winning the Golden Rose Award for the best tourist city in B&H in three seasons as well as the Golden Crown of Hospitality for taking special care of B&H traditional cultural and historic heritage. The salt lakes complex also won the 2012 UNWTO ULYSSES AWARD, the greatest accolade of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation for Innovation in Public Policies and Management for the “valorisation of the Natural Heritage – Pannonian Salt Lakes in Tuzla”, which is awarded for innovations in tourism. In 2013, the City of Tuzla and Pannonian Lakes received the GOLDEN INTERSTAS award, which is a prestigious international tourist prize presented for the extraordinary contribution to the tourism development in the City of Tuzla and for the significant contribution to the tourism development in the whole country of B&H.

Distance: Sarajevo-Tuzla 126.7 km 67

PROMO

POSLJEDNJE BH. SELO

GORŠTACI LUKOMIRA SELO LUKOMIR DANAS S PRAVOM NOSI EPITET POSLJEDNJEG BOSANSKOHERCEGOVAČKOG SELA. LUKOMIR JE ZADRŽAO SVOJ AUTOHTONI IZGLED, SA STARIM KUĆAMA SAGRAĐENIM OD KAMENA, BLATNJAVIM PRILAZIMA, TRADICIONALNOM NOŠNJOM I ZADIVLJUJUĆIM POGLEDOM NA KANJON RAKITNICE I PLANINSKE VRHOVE VISOČICE I PRENJA MUZEJ NA OTVORENOM U današnje vrijeme selo živi samo u ljetnim mjesecima, dok je u toku zime napušteno i skoro zaboravljeno od svijeta, no nikada od starih seljana koji su rođeni i odrasli u Lukomiru. Nažalost, sada su prestari da bi prezimili u selu i primorani su da ga napuste u toku teških i oštrih planinskih zima. Ovo mjesto je kao muzej na otvorenom, sa živim figu�68

rama koje i dalje nose istu nošnju koju su vijekovima nosili njihovi preci. Selo naseljavaju dvije porodice: Čomor i Masleša, rade na održava�nju infrastrukture koja je bitna za spoj sa civilizacijom, no i dalje ostaju odsječeni od lagodnog života.

UPOZNAJTE TRI GENERACIJE JEDNE PORODICE! Agencija CoolTour iz Sarajeva nudi jedinstven doživljaj, priliku za upoznavanje tri generacije jedne porodice u okviru planinarske ture. Na ovoj turi upoznat ćete osamdesetogo�dišnji par koji je zajedno odgojio dovoljno djece da osnuju svoj porodični fudbalski tim, ili čak i više od toga, a sve to uz paralelno bavljenje poljoprivredom i stočarstvom, bez dana radnog staža u kompanijama i bez posjeta doktorima. Upoznat ćete nji� hovu djecu, od kojih su sinovi najčešće visoko educirani, dok su kćerke sretno udate. Treća generacija, najmlađa, je upravo ona koja je nažalost poprilično odvojena od sela i seoskog života. Oni se zabavljaju tehnologijom i žive moderne živote koji nemaju nikakve spone sa životima predaka, no na svu sreću, uvijek postoje

oni pojedinci, koji pripadaju trećoj generaciji, i koji poštuju i vole svoje korijene, koji se svim silama trude da održe živom ideju Lukomira kao luke mira. Vodič na ovoj turi je upravo osoba koja pripada trećoj živućoj ge� neraciji Lukomira, koja voli svaki kamen Bjelašnice, a i sama je provela nebrojene dane u aktivnim seoskim poslovima. Ona će vam približiti seo� ski život, ispričati životne priče svojih predaka, pokazati skrivena mjesta koja imaju svoje legende i prenijeti svu svoju ljubav prema planinama, prirodi, kulturi i historiji ove regije.

sve do početka ovog stoljeća, a ta činjenica je još interesantnija ukoli�ko uzmemo u obzir da su se slavne Zimske olimpijske igre (1984) odigrale upravo na Bjelašnici, na kojoj je selo smješteno.

NAJVIŠE SELO U BIH

Za više informacija o samoj turi i svemu što ćete vidjeti i posjetiti u okviru nje kontaktirajte agenciju CoolTour.

Lukomir se nalazi na 1.495 metara iznad nivoa mora i najviše je selo u Bosni i Hercegovini. Ova visina možda nije impozantna u odnosu na druga alpska sela po Evropi, no najviša tačka Bosne i Hercegovine se nalazi na 2386 metara iznad nivoa mora (vrh Maglić), i to je ono što Lukomir diže u prave visine. Historija ne govori mnogo o ovom mjestu, no obzirom da se u selu nalazi nekropola stećaka da se zaključiti da je ovo mjesto bilo naseljeno u 15. i 16. stoljeću. Zanimljivo je da je selo ostalo skriveno od ostatka svijeta

Toliko se toga može reći i ispričati o ovom mjestu, ali najbolji način da se ono u potpunosti shvati, da se osjeti energija kojom zrači i da se dožive neki nezaboravni momenti, jeste posjeta Lukomiru i vrijeme koje ćete provesti sa lokalcima u okviru ove ture.

Telefon/Telephone: +387 61 375 506 info@cooltour.ba.

PROMO

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA’S LAST VILLAGE

HIGHLANDERS

OF LUKOMIR

LUKOMIR VILLAGE BEARS THE EPITHET OF THE LAST VILLAGE IN BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA. LUKOMIR HAS PRESERVED ITS ORIGINAL APPEARANCE WITH OLD STONE HOUSES, MUDDY ACCESS PATHS, TRADITIONAL COSTUMES, AND STUNNING VIEWS OF RAKITNICA RIVER CANYON AND PEAKS OF VISOČICA AND PRENJ MOUNTAINS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM Today, Lukomir Village only lives in the summer months. In the winter months, the world abandons and almost completely forgets about it, unlike the old villagers who were born and raised here. Regrettably, they are too old to be able to spend the winter in the village so they leave it during harsh and freezing winters

in the mountains. This place resembles an open-air museum with living figures still wearing traditional costumes their ancestors had worn for centuries. Two families live here: the Čomor and Masleša family. They maintain the infrastructure that leads to civilisation, but they still remain cut off from the contemporary bliss of everyday life.

MEET THREE GENERATIONS OF A SINGLE FAMILY! CoolTour agency from Sarajevo offers you a unique experience, an opportunity to meet three generations of a single family as part of a tour package. The tour package allows you to meet an eighty-year-old couple who raised enough children to

For more information about the tour package and everything else you will get to explore as part of the tour package, ple� ase get in touch with CoolTour agency via info@cooltour.ba or +38761375506. 70

start their own family football club, or even a larger team, while growing crops and raising cattle, and all that without having a single day of registered employment or without visiting a doctor. It also allows you to meet their children—their sons are mostly highly educated, and their daughters happily married. Sadly, the third and youngest generation stays quite aloof from the village and village life. They keep themselves entertained with technology and live modern lives that have nothing to do with their ancestors’ lives. Fortunately, some of the members of the third generation do have respect for and love their roots, and try their hardest to keep the idea of Lukomir as a peace retreat alive. Your guide on this tour is someone who belongs to the third generation of Lukomir’s inhabitants, who loves each and every rock of Bjelašnica Mountain, and who has spent countless days doing active village work. The guide will tell you what village life is all about, share ancestral stories and memories, take you to hidden sites and tell you about the legends attached to them, and share with you the love of the mountains and nature as well as the region’s culture and history.

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA’S HIGHEST VILLAGE Lukomir is Bosnia and Herzegovina’s highest village at 1,469 metres above sea level. This might not seem impressive compared to other Alpine villages throughout Europe, but when you realise that the highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina is situated at an altitude of 2,386 metres above sea level (at Maglić Mountain), that is what makes Lukomir seem really high. There are not many historical records about this place, but a medieval tombstone necropolis in the village implies

that the site was inhabited during the 15th and 16th centuries. It is curios that the village remained hidden from the rest of the world up until the turn of the 21th century, and this fact seems even more curious when you consider that the renowned Winter Olympics (1984) were held on Bjelašnica Mountain which is where Lukomir is located. There is so much to say and learn about this place. Yet, the best way to fully understand it, feel the energy emanating from it, and experience of a myriad unforgettable moments is to visit Lukomir and spend time with the local residents as part of this tour package.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Počitelj najumiljatiji grad juga

POČITELJ SE UBRAJA U NAJLJEPŠE KULTURNO-HISTORIJSKE ZNAMENITOSTI BIH. ORIJENTALNI GRAD SMJEŠTEN JE U DOLINI RIJEKE NERETVE, A NA BRDIMA KOJA GA FORMIRAJU NALAZE SE STARI ČUVARI, SREDNJOVJEKOVNE TVRĐAVE .

rad koji predstavlja jednu od ključnih destinacija bh. turizma, pretpostavlja se, izgradio je sa susjednim naseljima bosanski kralj Stjepan Tvrtko I 1383. godine. Počitelj u sebi krije brojne priče prohujalih vremena, tragove moćnika koji su dolazili i odlazili, ostaviviši također značajno naslijeđe nadolazećim generacijama. 72

POČITELJ KROZ VRIJEME U Srednjem vijeku Počitelj je bio administrativni centar i centar uprave Dubrava župe, njena najzapadnija tačka, s velikom strateškom važnosti. Razvoj se nastavio i između 16. i 18. vijeka, a danas se u njemu arhitektonski izdvajaju srednjovjekovna i osmanska faza oblikovanja.

U periodu od 1463. do 1471. godine držao ga je mađarski garnizon da bi nakon kratke opsade 1471. godine pao pod Osmanlije i ostao u Osmanskom carstvu sve do 1878. godine. Upisan je kao centar kadiluka od 1782. do 1879., te kao štab vojnog okruga Počitelj od 1713. do 1835. godine.

Uspostavljanjem austrougarske vlasti u BiH 1878. godine, Počitelj je izgubio strateški značaj, ali upravo to mu je pomoglo da sačuva prvobitnu gradsku arhitektonsku cjelinu do danas, iako je veliku štetu pretrpio za vrijeme agresije na BiH. No, već 1996. World Monuments Watch proglasio je Počitelj jednom od 100 najugroženijih lokacija kulturnog naslijeđa na svijetu, a 2000. Vlada FBiH započela je program njegove stalne zaštite.

TOP MJESTA ZA VIDJETI Historijsko gradsko područje nalazi se na lijevoj obali rijeke Neretve, na glavnoj cesti Mostar-Metkovići. Građevine koje čine ovaj grad tako jedinstvenim su Hadži-Alijina džamija, jedno od najfinijih dostignuća klasičnog osmanskog stila, Šiš�man-Ibrahim pašina medresa, koja pripada standardnom tipu manje

vjerske škole, dok čitavom čarši�jom dominira Sahat kula, tipična za Hercegovinu, gdje su sahat-kule nastajale pod utjecajem mediteransko-dalmatinske arhitekture. Zanimljiv je i način na koji su se gradile kuće čuvajući intimu boravka i mira, a istovremeno nudeći pogled na cijeli grad i život u njemu. Gavrankapetanovića kuća, sačinjena od dva manja i jednog većeg objekta, s podjelom na selamluk i haremluk, nastala je tokom 16. i 17. vijeka. Po veličini, najveći je i najistaknutiji primjer stambene arhitekture Po-

NE PROPUSTITE: Kada dođete u Počitelj, probajte neki od domaćih sokova koje prave lokalci. Preporučujemo vam domaći sok od nara. čitelja. Kuća je u jednom trenutku napuštena, a kako bi se sačuvala i renovirala pretvorena je u Umjetničku koloniju. Svake godine, u ljetnom periodu, kolonija okuplja umjetnike iz raznih dijelova Evrope sloveći i kao atrakcija za turiste.

KAKO STIĆI: Počitelj je smješten na kamenoj litici lijeve obale rijeke Neretve, dvadesetak kilometara južno od Mostara, uz magistralni put koji vodi prema Jadranskom moru.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Počitelj

the Tamest Town Of The South

POČITELJ IS KNOWN AS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS OF BIH. THIS ORIENTAL TOWN IS SITUATED IN THE VALLEY OF THE NERETVA RIVER, AND THE HILLS THAT SURROUND IT ARE HOME TO ITS OLD „GUARDS“, MEDIEVAL FORTRESSES

he town that represents one of the key destinations of BiH tourism, is assumed to have been built, along with neighbouring settlements, by Bosnian king Stjepan Tvrtko I in 1383. Počitelj hides numerous stories of times gone past within its walls, traces of rulers who came and went, leaving behind a significant heritage to future generations.

POČITELJ THROUGH TIME In the Middle Ages, Počitelj was an administrative centre and the centre of governance of Dubrava Coun74

ty, its most western point, giving it great strategic importance. Its development continued between the 16th and 18th century, and today in terms of architecture the medieval and Ottoman stages of evolution can be observed. In the period between 1463 and 1471, it was occupied by a Hungarian garrison, but after a short siege in 1471 it fell under Ottoman rule and remained a part of the Ottoman Empire until 1878. It was recorded as the centre of kadiluk (area under the jurisdiction of a kadija, i.e. judge) from 1782 until 1879, and as the headquarters of military district Počitelj from 1713 until 1835.

Upon the establishment of Austro-Hungarian rule in BiH in 1878, Počitelj lost its strategic importance, and it was this that actually helped it maintain its initial urban architectural entirety until today, although it suffered greatly during the time of aggression on BiH. However, in 1996 World Monuments Watch named Počitelj as one of the 100 most endangered locations of cultural heritage in the world, and in 2000, the Government of the Federation of BiH started a program for its permanent protection.

TOP PLACES TO SEE The historical urban area is situated on the left bank of the Neretva River, on the main Mostar-Metkovići road. The monuments which make this city so unique are Hajji Alija’s Mosque, one of the finest accomplishments of the classical Ottoman style, Šišman Ibrahim Pasha’s Madrasa, which was a standard type of smaller religious school, while the entire čaršija (bazaar) is dominated by the Clock Tower, typical for Herzegovina, where clock towers were built under the influence of Mediterranean and Dalmatian architecture.

DON'T MISS: When you come to Počitelj, try some of the homemade juices made by locals. We recommend the homemade pomegranate juice.

The way in which houses were built in order to preserve the intimacy of living and peace and quiet, while at the same time offering a view of the entire city and life in it, is interesting. The Gavrankapetanović House, made up of two smaller and one larger building, known as the selamluk and haremluk, was built during the 16th and 17th century. Based on size, is it the largest and most prominent example of residential architecture in Počitelj. At some point, the house was abandoned, and in order to preserve and renovate it, it was transformed into an Art Colony. Each year, during summer, the colony gathers artists from various parts of Europe and is known as a tourist attraction.

HOW TO GET THERE: Počitelj is situated on a rocky cliff sloping on the left bank of the Neretva River, around twenty kilometres south of Mostar, along the highway which leads towards the Adriatic Sea. 75

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Šta vidjeti LOKALCI PREPORUČUJU

u Jablanici i Mostaru

KADA POSMATRATE NEKI GRAD ILI MJESTO KROZ OČI LOKALACA, ON DOBIJA SASVIM NOVU DIMENZIJU. S OBZIROM NA TO DA VOLE OTKRITI ZANIMLJIVA, ALI I SKROVITA MJESTA SVOJIH GRADOVA I OKOLINE, ONI ZAPRAVO PREDSTAVLJAJU NAJBOLJE TURISTIČKE VODIČE 76

nima dobro znano izletište Križ na koje se može doći cestom ili označenom trim šumskom stazom, na vrhu izletišta se nalazi odmorište sa pogledom na cijeli grad.

pustili smo se prema jugu naše zemlje i pitali neke od popularnih lokalaca prelijepe Jablanice i romantičnog Mostara, čije obale ljubi smaragdno zelena Neretva, koja mjesta treba obavezno posjetiti u njihovim gradovima.

ŠTA VIDJETI U JABLANICI DŽENAD DŽINO, fotograf Ja sam zaljubljen u planine, pa preporučujem posjetu Prenju i Čvrsnici, odnosno Hajdučkim vratima – simbolu te planine i same Jablanice. S obzirom na to da je ljeto, preporučujem kupanje na plažama Peta i Čivelj na Jablaničkom jezeru, kao i splavarenje po njemu, ali i posjetu Grabovičkom jezeru i vožnju kajakom. Jablanica je nadaleko poznata po svojoj janjetini i svi restorani koji je služe se nalaze izvan grada, a ja ne bih izdvojio nijedan – jer su svi dobri. AMRA MAKAN, marketing i PR menadžerica kompanije Hyundai Auto BiH Ono što čini Jablanicu drugačijom od većine gradova jeste priroda koja je okružuje, ne morate potrošiti mnogo vremena i vožnje automobilom ukoliko želite prošetati ili otići negdje na izlet. Pa tako na samo desetak minuta hoda od kompleksa Muzeja bitke za ranjenike, sa druge strane mosta nalazi se Jablaniča-

Jablanica je bogata rijekama Neretvom, Doljankom, Šanicom, Bijelom, a tu je svakako neizostavno Jablaničko jezero. Naše vode i rijeke su naše najveće bogatstvo. Rijeka koja je za mene dragulj, rijeka koja je trebala biti dio nacionalnog parka prirode u sklopu planinskog kompleksa Prenj-Čvrsnica-Čabulja-Vran je Doljanka. Posjetite i Park prirode Blidinje koji se nalazi pod UNESCO-ovom zaštitom, poznata Risovačka vrata, nekropolu stećaka Dugo polje, te najveće glečersko jezero u BiH (Blidinjsko jezero). Predlažem da posjetite i gore spomenute planine, te mnogobrojne planinske domove i kuće na njima, naravno uz stručne osobe – vodiče. Izdvajam Vilinac u čijoj blizini se nalazi i prelijepo planinsko jezero Crvenjak. AZRA NEZIRIĆ, projekt koordinatorica TPO fondacije, freelance novinarka i bivši turistički vodič Preporučujem posjetu starim selima iznad Jablaničkog jezera preko ostroškog mosta: Žuglići, Rodići, Šabančići, Mrakovo, koji su sjajni za vidjeti. Ukoliko se odlučite za posjetu Blidinju, preporučujem boravak i odmor u motelu kod Marije „Hajdučke vrleti“. Također, lijep je i jablanički set sela s donje strane od kojih je sjajna Sanica jer ima ribnjak pastrmke. U malo daljem selu od Sanice ima selo Ravna u kojem živi čovjek koji ima 100 godina, čija su sjećanja neprocjenjiva. Kada su u pitanju restorani s janjetinom, izdvajam Komadinovo vrelo zbog priče o Mujagi Komadinu i prvom izvoru pitke vode.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

ŠTA VIDJETI U MOSTARU SANEL KAJAN, TV voditelj Mostar je uistinu biser grad i ima se šta vidjeti i uživati. Nije Mostar samo Stari most. Mostar su i uski kaldrmisani sokaci, strme stepenice, male plaže uz Neretvu, tajnovita mjesta uz Radobolju. Ali i uz rijeke u blizini grada - Bunu i Bunicu. Stoga, moja srdačna preporuka da probate vožnju rijekom Bunicom do njenog samog vrela, najdubljeg u Evropi. Bit ćete impresionirani netaknutom prirodom i ljepotom Bunice. U Podveležju možete jahati konje, voziti bicikl ili jednostavno šetati i uživati na svježem zraku, uz domaće specijalitete tamošnje kuhinje. Sjeverno od Mostara preporučujem kupanje u bistroj i hladnoj rjeci Drežanki, te ručak o obližnjim resto78

ranima koji nude svježu autohtonu pastrmku. U samom Mostaru preporučujem spuštanje ziplineom od Lučkog do Starog mosta. A kad ste već u gradu, ukoliko sami ne znate

put, zamolite nekog lokalnog dečka ili djevojku da vam pokažu put do plaže Pijesak ili one na Mostarskom jezeru. Odlično za rashlađivanje u vrele mostarske dane.

SUNČICA ŠANJEVIĆ, blogerica - @zovitemesansajn na Instagramu Preporučujem posjetu izletištu Rujište iznad Mostara koje nije interesantno samo u zimskom periodu već i ljeti kada je zbog znatne visinske razlike boravak posebno ugodan jer je temperatura niža i do 11°C u odnosu na centar Mostara. A hrabri neka isprobaju zipline sa Fortice koji je najduži u Bosni i Hercegovini, dug 570 metara, sa kojeg se pruža fantastičan pogled na Mostar. Dodatno preporučujem i restoran Megi koji se nalazi na gradskoj aveniji, koji postoji već dugo godina i u koji idem od djetinjstva. Preporučujem i posjetu caffe baru „Terasa“ u starom dijelu grada koja ima prekrasan pogled na Stari most. MAK KALEM, kantautor i pjevač Veliki sam ljubitelj životinja, pa bih preporučio prostranu visoravan

žive pod otvorenim nebom, izloženi otvorenom utjecaju prirode i prkoseći njenoj surovosti, jedinstveni su u ovom dijelu Hercegovine.

Bile nadomak Mostara. Do netaknute prirode, jedinstvene ljepote na kojoj živi više od stotinu divljih konja, dolazite za 20 do 30 minuta vožnje iz Mostara. Divlji konji koji

Privlače sve veći broj izletnika i zaljubljenika u prirodu i životinje. Kanjon Drežanke bio bi moja sljedeća preporuka. Posebno bih istakao kupalište u Donjem selu kod brane koje raspolaže lijepom plažom, restoranom, parkingom i sa jako mnogo prostora za odmor i opuštanje u hladovini uz samu rijeku. Posjetitelji će doživjeti jedinstvene i neponovljive prizore koji dočaravaju svu raskoš ove hercegovačke ljepotice. Drežnica je jedno od onih mjesta na koje se uvijek rado vraćate.

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

RECOMMENDED BY LOCALS

Sites to Explore

in Jablanica and Mostar

WHEN YOU LOOK AT A TOWN OR PLACE THROUGH THE EYES OF A LOCAL, IT TAKES ON A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION. SINCE THEY LOVE DISCOVERING INTERESTING BUT ALSO SECRET PLACES IN THEIR TOWNS AND SURROUNDINGS, THEY ARE TRULY THE BEST TOUR GUIDES

e went to the south of B&H and asked some of the popular locals of the lovely town of Jablanica and the romantic city of Mostar for their top tips while visiting the towns whose shores are kissed by the emerald green Neretva River.

SITES TO EXPLORE IN JABLANICA

DŽENAD DŽINO, Photographer I am a mountain enthusiast, so I would recommend exploring Prenj and Čvrsnica mountains, more precisely Hajdučka vrata (the Outlaw’s Door)— the symbol of Čvrsnica and Jablani80

ca. Since it is summer time, I would also recommend swimming at Peta and Čavelj beaches on Jablaničko Lake and rafting on the same lake, and visiting Grabovičko Lake and kayaking. Jablanica is widely known for its roast lamb, and all the restaurants offering roast lamb on their menus are located outside Jablanica. I would not single out any one in particular because they are all good.

AMRA MAKAN, Marketing and PR Manager, Hyundai Auto BiH What makes Jablanica stand apart from most towns is the nature that surrounds it. You do not have to spend much time driving a car to reach a wal-

king area or a picnic spot. Within a 10 minute walking distance from the Museum of the Battle for the Wounded, across the bridge, Križ, a picnic spot popular among the people of Jablanica, is nestled. You can reach it by road or by a marked trim track through the forest. At the top of the picnic spot, there is a place you can stop and rest at offering views of the entire town. Jablanica is rich with rivers: Neretva, Doljanka, Šanica, Bijela, and there is, certainly, the inevitable Jablaničko Lake. Our waters and rivers are our greatest asset. I believe that Doljanka is a jewel and that it should be part of the national nature park within the Prenj-Čvrsnica-Čabulja-Vran mountain range. You should also explore the Blidinje Nature Park protected by UNESCO, the renowned Risovačka vrata, Dugo polje medieval tombstone site, and the largest glacial lake in B&H, Blidinjsko Lake. I would recommend you to explore the mountains, and visit a large number of mountain lodges and cottages in the company of professional mountain guides. I would single out Vilinac Mountain. There is a beautiful mountain lake called Crvenjak in its close proximity.

AZRA NEZIRIĆ, TPO Foundation Project Coordinator, Freelance Journalist and Former Tour Guide I would recommend visiting the old villages above Jablaničko Lake, right across the bridge: Žuglići, Rodići, Šabančići, and Mrakovo. It would be great to explore them all. If you decide to visit Blidinje, I would suggest staying at Marija’s motel called “Hajdučke vrleti”. A group of villages below the town of Jablanica is also a good choice for exploration, in particular Sanica Village with a fish pond. Further away from Sanica, there is another village called Ravna where a 100-year-old man lives. His memories are priceless. When it comes to restaurants serving roast lamb, I would single out Komadinovo vrelo because of the story of Mujaga Komadin and the first spring of drinking water.

SITES TO EXPLORE IN MOSTAR SANEL KAJAN, TV Host Mostar is a real pearl, and there is lots to see and explore there. Mostar is not just the Old Bridge. Mostar is also the narrow cobbled alleys, the

steep steps, the little beaches along Neretva, the secret spots along Radobolja, Buna and Bunica rivers in the vicinity of Mostar. So, I would warmly recommend going on a boat ride up the Bunica River to its spring which is the deepest spring in Europe. You will be impressed by pristine nature and the beauty of the Bunica River. In Podveležje, you can go horse-back riding, cycling or simply hiking while enjoying the fresh air, and tasting local culinary specialties later on. I would recommend taking a dip in the clear and cold waters of River Drežanka in the north of Mostar and having lunch in one of the nearby restaurants serving fresh autochthonous trout. In central Mostar, I would suggest going down the zipline from Lučki to the Old Bridge. While you are in town, ask one of the local boys or girls to point you to the Pijesak Beach or the beach on the Mostarsko Lake. A great way to cool off on a hot day in Mostar! SUNČICA ŠANJEVIĆ, Blogger - @zovitemesansajn on Instagram I would recommend visiting Rujište, a picnic spot above Mostar, which is interesting not only in winter but also in summer

because the large difference in altitude between Rujište and Mostar makes it really pleasant to be there—it is 11°C lower than in downtown Mostar. Those brave at heart might try the Fortica zipline. With 570 metres, it is the longest zipline in Bosnia and Herzegovina offering spectacular views of Mostar. I would also suggest going to Megi Restaurant on the main avenue, which dates back a long time, and which I have been frequenting since I was a little girl. Another place I would recommend is “Terasa” café in the old part of Mostar with stunning views of the city. MAK KALEM, Songwriter and Singer I love animals very much, so I would recommend exploring Bile, a vast plateau just outside of Mostar. It is a 20-30 minute drive from Mostar to an intact, exceptional natural landscape with more than 100 wild horses living there. Unique for being the only herd of such kind in this part of Herzegovina, wild horses live out in the open, exposed to but enduring very harsh and unpredictable weather conditions. They draw a growing number of holidaymakers and nature and animal enthusiasts. Next, I would recommend Drežanka Canyon. I would particularly highlight a swimming spot near the dam in Donje selo with a wonderful beach, a restaurant, a car park and a lot of space to relax and unwind in the shade by the river. Visitors will enjoy remarkable and unforgettable views illustrative of just how stunning this part of Herzegovina really is. Drežnica is one of those places you always gladly return to. 81

USPJEŠNE PRIČE / SUCCESS STORYES

MIRZA REDŽEPAGIĆ

Flamenco je način života

JOŠ ZA VRIJEME STUDIJA NA MUZIČKOJ AKADEMIJI POČINJE RAZVIJATI INTERES ZA FLAMENCO KOJI ĆE GA ODVESTI U ŠPANIJU NA USAVRŠAVANJE. POSTAO JE PIONIR FLAMENCO MUZIKE U BIH, FLAMENCO GITARISTA, PREDSTAVNIK ORGANIZACIJE ASOCIACIÓN ESPAÑOLA DE GUITARRA FLAMENCA (AEGF) ZA ZEMLJE BALKANA, NASTAVNIK GITARE I OSNIVAČ MUZIČKE GRUPE NAIRUZ Piše: Elma Zećo Foto: Aida Redžepagić

očetak muzičkog putovanja Mirze Redžepagića seže u djetinjstvo. Rođen u Novom Pazaru, za njega grad iz kojeg nikada nije otišao, odredište lijepih porodičnih uspomena i najbitnijih trenutaka za jednog mladog čovjeka, pod utjecajem očevog muzičkog izbora osvojila ga je gitara, a flamenco na završnoj godini studija na Muzičkoj akademiji u Sarajevu. Ipak, spoznaju da je to umjetnost koja najviše odgovara njegovom senzibilitetu veže za lično i profesionalno sazrijevanje.

MUZIČKA SVESTRANOST Izvodeći na akademiji djela španske klasične muzike kompozitora inspirisanih flamencom i andaluzijskom muzikom, Mirza je dublje zaranjao u svijet flamenca, koji ga je sve više i više privlačio.

suština muzike biva ugušena pretjeranom opterećenosti tehnikom. Muzika u njihovom slučaju predstavlja način života. Uslijed neopterećenosti tehnikom, shvatio sam da oni sviraju tehnički besprijekorno i ležerno, te da fokusiranje isključivo na gramatiku ne može zamijeniti priču koju iznosimo jezikom. Stalno obrazovanje, osvajanje znanja u domenu različitih muzičkih pravaca, instrumenata, komponovanje muzike za pozorište, muzički eksperimenti, koncerti... sve to govori o Mirzinoj muzičkoj svestranosti. Postoje dani kada je nastup na sceni ono što najviše prija njegovoj duši,

FLAMENCO I ORIJENTALNA MUZIKA Kao predstavnik organizacije Asociación Española de Guitarra Flamenca (AEGF) za zemlje Balkana, jedan od prvih flamenco projekata koje je Mirza radio u regionu bila je saradnja sa zagrebačkom pjevačicom Ninom Ćorić, jedinom flamenco pjevačicom priznatom od strane struke, kaže nam, s kojom je nastupio na desetak koncerata. - Moram naglasiti kako flamenco nije samo muzika, već cijela kultura sastavljena od više elemenata s kojima je publiku potrebno upoznati.

- Danas shvatam da je to bio logičan slijed događaja i da je takvo nešto bilo neizbježno. S obzirom na to da radim kao nastavnik gitare u muzičkoj školi i da se gitarom bavim i s aspekta pedagogije, trudim se istražiti nove načine za pristup instrumentu, što mi je zahvaljujući flamencu i tehnikama koje se u školi ne uče, znatno olakšalo rad s djecom - kaže Mirza. Kako bi doživio tradiciju i kulturu flamenca, boravio je i educirao se u Španiji. Odluka da se zaputi u Granadu proistekla je iz želje da se približi flamencu, pronađe učitelja i konačno osjeti duh Andaluzije iz koje flamenco potječe. Vježbao je s dva renomirana učitelja gitare iz Granade, te potom dobio stipendiju Asocijacije flamenco gitarista Španije za specijalističke studije u Madridu, gdje je radio s Joseom Delunaom, poznatim flamenco pedagogom.

dok s druge strane ima i onih dana kada ispunjenje postiže komponujući, radeći u studiju, gdje se, zapravo, osjeća najsigurnijim.

- Najviše me je fasciniralo što sam najbolje flamenco izvedbe čuo na ulici, izvodili su ih tinejdžeri koji su od malih nogu u tome i koji ne promišljaju muziku na način svojstven zapadnoevropskoj školi u kojoj sam primarno odgojen i gdje često

Iako je mnogo izvrsnih muzičara s kojima bi se volio naći na sceni, izdvaja flamenco gitaristu Gerarda Núñeza, Ibrahima Maaloufa, francusko-libanskog jazz trubača, a od domaćih izvođača flautisticu i kompozitoricu Hanan Hadžajlić.

Zahvaljujući modernim tehnologijama i sredstvima informisanja postoji sve veći interes za flamenco. Nažalost, mnogi pojedinci, ali ni muzičke institucije još uvijek nisu prepoznali na koji način bi Bosna i Hercegovina mogla postati centar flamenco muzike, ne samo u regionu, već i šire, jer to je muzika koja tek ulazi u muzičke institucije u svijetu, a upravo mi bismo mogli imati privilegiju da budemo jedna od prvih deset insti83

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tucija u svijetu koje su uvele flamenco kao poseban predmet u sklopu muzičkog obrazovanja - pojašnjava Mirza značaj flamenca, kojeg voli spajati s orijentalnom muzikom. - Flamenco se isprva pjevao, zatim se na to dodao ples, a na kraju se pridružila gitara kao prateći instrument. Nakon toga se razvila i kao samostalan instrument u izvođenju ove umjetnosti. Osim što je flamenco spoj različitih umjetnosti, tako je spoj i različitih kultura, tačnije nastao je višestoljetnim suživotom naroda, Arapa, Jevreja, Španaca i Roma. Time je flamenco, između ostalog, nastao i pod utjecajem orijentalne muzike, pa je stoga spoj flamenca i orijentalne muzike posve prirodan, organski.

KRETIVNI DVOJAC Mirza je oženjen fotografkinjom Aidom Redžepagić. Uspješno su stvorili prostor u kojem mogu individualno djelovati. Dok je Mirzin glavni fokus uvijek muzika, Aida, pored svojih 84

poslova, uspješno realizuje vizuelne priče nekih suprugovih projekata. - Nedavno sam sa svojom muzičkom grupom NAiRUZ publicirao video s nastupa iz Cankarjevog doma u Ljubljani. Potpisuje ga Aida zajedno s Borutom Bučinelom. Po n o s a n sam na ostvareni rezultat. Imam sreću što uz sebe imam za mene najbolju bh. fotografkinju. Aida se uvijek usavršava, a zahvaljujući njoj i sâm učim o važnosti vizuelnog identiteta. Njihova kćerka Fatma odrasta u

produktivnom i kreativnom okruženju, što joj omogućuje da svakodnevno promatra proces stvaranja. - Naša djevojčica predivno crta, ima razvijen muzički sluh, uvijek predlaže nove ideje, a u posljednje vrijeme primjećujem da je naročito zanima moj rad u muzičkom studiju, što mene kao roditelja veoma raduje. No, njen razvoj i izbori tek slijede u vremenu koje dolazi. Idući svojom putanjom kao roditelj, suprug, muzičar, čovjek, Mirza ne prestaje maštati i vjerovati da ćemo jednoga dana živjeti u svijetu u kojem će se cijeniti znanje i napredak, ali da to nikada neće isključivati humanost.

MIRZA REDŽEPAGIĆ

Flamenco is a Lifestyle Written by: Elma Zećo / Photographs: Aida Redžepagić

WHILE STUDYING AT THE MUSIC ACADEMY, HE STARTED DEVELOPING AN INTEREST IN FLAMENCO, WHICH LED HIM TO ATTEND A TRAINING PROGRAMME IN SPAIN. HE BECAME A PIONEER OF FLAMENCO MUSIC IN B&H, A FLAMENCO GUITARIST, A REPRESENTATIVE OF ASOCIACIÓN ESPAÑOLA DE GUITARRA FLAMENCA (AEGF) IN THE BALKANS, A GUITAR TEACHER AND THE FOUNDER OF THE MUSIC GROUP NAIRUZ

he beginning of Mirza Redžepagić’s music journey dates back to his childhood. He was born in Novi Pazar, a town he has never actually left, a place where wonderful family memories are made and where many of life’s most important moments take place. Under the influence of his father’s choices in music, he developed a love of the guitar, and in the senior year at the Sarajevo Music Academy, he became fascinated by Flamenco. However, personal and professional growth made him realise that this type of artistic expression is the one that best suited his aesthetic sensibility.

VERSATILE MUSICIAN As he performed classical Spanish pieces at the Academy written by

composers who were inspired by Flamenco and the music of Andalusia, Mirza was delving deeper into the world of Flamenco finding himself increasingly drawn to it. - Now I realise that it was a logical sequence of events, it was bound to happen. Since I teach guitar at a music school and my interests include pedagogical approaches to teaching the guitar as well, I’m continually trying to explore new methods to teach, and thanks to Flamenco and the techniques that aren’t taught at school, it makes teaching children so much easier, Mirza says. Eager to explore the tradition and culture of Flamenco, he travelled to and attended training courses in Spain. His decision to go to Grenada stemmed from a desire to learn

more about Flamenco, find a teacher and finally feel the spirit of Andalusia which is where Flamenco originates from. He practiced playing Flamenco guitar with two renowned Flamenco teachers, and then Asociación Española de Guitarra Flamenca granted him a scholarship to attend a specialist study programme in Madrid, where he learned from celebrated Flamenco teacher Jose Deluna. - What fascinated me the most was that the best Flamenco performances that I heard were performed by teenagers in the streets, boys who’ve been performing from a very young age, but they don’t think of music the way we’re being taught to think in music schools across Western Europe, which is primarily the tradition I was raised in. Focusing 85

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on the technique too much stifles the essence of music more often than not, but in their case, music is a lifestyle. I’ve come to realise that by not obsessing over the technique they’re able to have flawless technique and play with ease, and that focusing exclusively on grammar can’t replace the story we’re telling by using language. Continuous education, gaining knowledge of different music genres, learning instruments, composing music for theatre, music experiments, concerts… this says a lot about how versatile Mirza is. There are days when performing on stage is what he revels in, but there are also days when composing in the music studio is incredibly fulfilling to him, and that is where he feels safest.

interest in Flamenco. Unfortunately, certain individuals and music institutions alike haven’t realised just yet that Bosnia and Herzegovina could become the centre of Flamenco, not just here, in this region, but in a wider area too, because Flamenco has just started becoming a part of musical institutions throughout the world. We could have the privilege of being among the first ten institutions in the world to have introduced Flamenco

One of the first regional projects Mirza participated in as the representative of Asociación Española de Guitarra Flamenca (AEGF) for the Balkans was his cooperation with Zagreb-based singer Nina Ćorić, the only Flamenco singer recognised by Flamenco professionals, and they performed in about ten concerts together, Mirza tells us. - I’ve got to underline that Flamenco is more than just music, it’s a whole culture comprising quite a few elements you need to present to the audience. Owing to modern technologies and means of communication, more recently, there’s been a growing 86

CREATIVE DUO Mirza is married to photographer Aida Redžepagić. They succeeded in creating a stimulating work environment. While Mirza is always focused on music, apart from her own work, Aida manages to create visual stories of some of her husband’s projects. - I recently published a video from the performance I had with the music group I’m in called NAiRUZ at Cankarjev dom in Ljubljana. Aida and Borut Bučinelo are responsible for it. I’m proud of the results we’ve been able to achieve. I’m fortunate to have the best Bosnian-Herzegovinian photographer by my side. Aida is continually striving to improve her skills, and thanks to her I’m also learning about the importance of visual identity.

Even though there is a large number of brilliant producers he would like to work with on stage, he singles out Flamenco guitarist Gerardo Núñez, French-Lebanese jazz trumpeter Ibrahim Maalouf, and flute player and composer Hanan Hadžajlić from B&H.

FLAMENCO AND ORIENTAL MUSIC

things, under the influence of Oriental music, so blending Flamenco with Oriental music seems entirely natural, organic.

Their daughter Fatma is growing up in a productive and creative environment, so she gets to see what the creative process looks like on a daily basis. as a special course in their curriculums, Mirza explains the importance of Flamenco, which he loves to combine with Oriental music. Early Flamenco seems to have been purely vocal, but in the end, it came to include the guitar as an accompanying instrument. The guitar then became a prominent instrument in Flamenco music performances. Flamenco is not only a combination different forms of art but also a mix of different cultures. It is the result of coexistence between Arabs, Jews, Spaniards and the Roma people spanning several centuries. Flamenco developed, among other

- Our little girl is rather good at drawing, she’s got an ear for music, she’s always telling us about her ideas, and lately I’ve noticed that she’s really interested in what I’m doing in the music studio, which makes me quite happy as a parent. However, she’ll develop her skills and make her own choices in times yet to come. On his path as a parent, a husband, a musician and a human, Mirza never stops dreaming and believing that one day he would live in a world in which knowledge and improvement are valued, but never at the expense of humanity.

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

MARIN MAMUZA

PREKO MUZIKE DO FOTOGRAFIJE I FILMA Marin Mamuza iz Livna fotografijom se počeo baviti kako bi zaradio novac za željenu gitaru, ali je ona ubrzo postala njegova ljubav i opsesija, koja ga je dovela do turizma i filma. Na filmskom setu sarađivao je i sa legendarnim Goranom Višnjićem kojeg je odveo da vidi livanjske divlje konje na Krugu, gdje Marin sada vodi photosafari. Turiste vodi u potragu za krdom divljih konja, koje smatra najvećim adutom turističke ponude Livna.

MARIN MAMUZA

THROUGH MUSIC TO PHOTOGRAPHY AND FILM Marin Mamuza from Livno got into photography to earn the money to buy the guitar he wanted, but soon enough photography became like an obsession, a love affair which led him to get involved in the travel and film industry. On film set, he worked with legendary actor Goran Višnjić. Marin took Goran to see the wild horses of Livno gathering in the Krug plateau area, which is where Marin organises photo safari workshops. He takes tourists on wild-horse search tours and believes that wild horses are the best tourist highlights Livno has to offer to its visitors.

FOTO EDITORIJAL / PHOTO EDITORIAL

KRUG PLANINA, LIVNO / KRUG MOUNTAIN, LIVNO 90

KRUG PLANINA, LIVNO / KRUG MOUNTAIN, LIVNO 91

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BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA 92

PEÄ&#x2020;INA LEDENICA, DRVAR / LEDENICA CAVE, DRVAR 93

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RIJEKA STURBA, LIVNO / RIVER STURBA, LIVNO 94

ŠTRBAČKI BUK, NACIONALNI PARK UNA, BIHAĆ / STRBACKI BUK, UNA NATIONAL, BIHAĆ 95

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ŠATORSKO JEZERO, PLANINA ŠATOR / ŠATORSKO LAKE, ŠATOR MOUNTAIN 96

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KULTNA FOTOGRAFIJA

KEMALA HADŽIĆA

U VIHORU RATA U BOSNI I HERCEGOVINI, NA BETONSKOM ZIDU KOJIM JE ZATVOREN IZLAZ IZ SARAJEVSKE KULOVIĆA ULICE PREMA TITOVOJ KAKO BI GRAĐANE ŠTITIO OD SNAJPERA, NEKO JE NAPISAO SAMO KRATKO I SIMBOLIČNO: PINK FLOYD. TIME JE ALUDIRAO NA STIHOVE PJESME LEGENDARNE SVJETSKE ROCK-GRUPE, PORUČIVŠI: SVE U SVEMU, TI SI SAMO JOŠ JEDNA CIGLA U ZIDU KAKO JE NASTALA KULTNA FOTOGRAFIJA S druge strane ulice koja je često bila na nišanu, iza objektiva svog fotoaparata jedan od najznačajnijih živućih bh. fotografa – Kemal Hadžić, okinuo je nekoliko fotografija želeći da taj momenat, da par ljudi koji su se tuda kretali, oživi i učini vječnim. I tako je i bilo! Ta crno-bijela fotografija na kojoj hoda jedan pogureni čovjek, na kojoj se iza betonskog zida vide padine Trebevića sa kojeg je granatirano Sarajevo, do dan-danas se dijeli internetskim bespućima, kroz brojnu literaturu o ratu i opkoljenom gradu, a malo ko zna da iza nje stoji Hadžić. I možda bi tako i ostalo, jer ovaj skromni, tihi fotograf nikada nije pravio promociju svojih djela niti pravio famu oko sebe, da je nije otkrio Slovenac Aleksandar Remec. Zahvaljujući želji tog Slovenca da napravi komparaciju svog sa Keminim radom, fotografija je postala slavna širom svijeta. Svojim vezama sa legendarnom grupom, Slovenac je pokazao Keminu fotografiju grafičkoj dizajnerici Pink Floyda koju je ona naprosto oduševila. Toliko je oduševila da su baš nju odlučili koristiti za promotivni photobook kojim su obilježili trideset godina postojanja na svjetskoj muzičkoj sceni. Tako se ime Kemala Hadžića našlo u photobooku kultne grupe uz slavna fotografska imena poput Jilla Furmanovskyog, Marka Fishera, Neala Prestona, Petera Woodsa, Briana D. McLaughlina, Boba Jenkinsa i Roberte Booth. 98

Autor: Semra Hodžić

USPJEŠNE PRIČE / SUCCESS STORYES

Gotovo nepoznat podatak je da je uradio i fotografije za plakate Zimskih olimpijskih igara održanih 1984. u Sarajevu. Sarađivao je i s reklamnim odjeljenjem Sutjeska filma, te za diskografske kuće Sarajevo Disk, Jugoton, Diskoton i PGP Beograd, zbog čega njegove fotografije krase omote ploča sarajevske pop-rock škole i drugih muzičara širom bivše Jugoslavije

FOTOGRAFIJA ZA POSTER SARAJEVSKE ZIME

SARAJLIJA SA AMERIČKOM ADRESOM

Ikonografsku fotografiju čeliste Vedrana Smajlagića koji je svirao u porušenoj Vijećnici također godinama pripisuju drugim autorima, a njen autor je Kemal Hadžić. Otkrio je to direktor Sarajevske zime Ibrahim Spahić koji je tu fotografiju iskoristio za poster ove kultne manifestacije 1993. godine.

Sarajevsku adresu nakon rata Kemal Hadžić zamijenio je američkom. Živi, radi i stvara u Phoenixu u Arizoni. Iako slika i pejzaže Arizone, njegovom objektivu najmilije je i dalje Sarajevo. Svoje radove izlagao je u svjetskim metropolama SAD-a, nekadašnjeg Sovjetskog Saveza i Evrope. Na poziv velikog prijatelja

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Bosne i Hercegovine i državnika Vaclava Havela izlagao je i u Češkoj, s posebnom časti da mu izložbu otvori tadašnji prijestolonasljednik iz poznate austrougarske dinastije careva Oto Habsburški. Član je Međunarodnog udruženja fotografa i likovne grupe Zvono, gdje najčešće izlaže kada dođe u Sarajevo, a izlagao je i u Galeriji Charlama i Centru za kulturu u Jelićevoj.

KEMAL HADŽIĆ’S

ICONIC PICTURE IN THE WHIRLWIND OF THE BOSNIAN WAR, SOMEBODY WROTE TWO SHORT AND SYMBOLIC WORDS ON A CONCRETE WALL BLOCKING THE EXIT FROM KULOVIĆA TO TITOVA STREET IN DOWNTOWN SARAJEVO PUT UP TO PROTECT CITY RESIDENTS AGAINST SNIPERS: PINK FLOYD. HE OR SHE ALLUDED TO THE LYRICS OF THE LEGENDARY ROCK BAND SENDING THE FOLLOWING MESSAGE: ALL IN ALL, YOU’RE JUST ANOTHER BRICK IN THE WALL! Author: Semra Hodžić

KEMAL HADŽIĆ’S ICONIC PICTURE Subheadline: In the whirlwind of the Bosnian war, somebody wrote two short and symbolic words on a concrete wall blocking the exit from Kulovića to Titova street in downtown Sarajevo put up to protect city residents against snipers: Pink Floyd. He or she alluded to the lyrics of the legendary rock band sending the following message: All in all, you’re just another brick in the wall!

HOW THE PICTURE WAS CAPTURED On the other side of the street that was frequently under sniper fire, from behind the camera, Kemal 101

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Hadžić, one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most renowned living photographers, took a few pictures in an attempt to bring to life a moment in which a few passers-by are moving along the street and make it immortal through a picture. And he did! That black and white picture of a hunched man walking along a concrete wall with a view of the slopes of Mount Trebević from which mortars and bullets rained down on Sarajevo behind it is being shared widely across the Internet and in a wide range of publications about the war and the besieged city, and very few people know that Hadžić was the one who captured it. Perhaps very few people would still be familiar with the picture as this modest, introverted photographer never promoted his work or himself, had a Slovenian man by the name of Aleksandar Remec not discovered it. Owing to his wish to compare his own work to that of Kemo’s, the picture became an international hit.

Not many people know that he also took photos that were used in the Sarajevo 1984 Winter Olympic posters. In addition, he cooperated with the advertising department of Sutjeska film, a production company, and with record companies such as Sarajevo Disk, Jugoton, Diskoton and PGP Beograd, which is why his photos were featured on vinyl record covers of various Sarajevo Pop-Rock School artists and other musicians from across the former Yugoslavia 102

His connections with the legendary group enabled him to show Kemo’s picture to Pink Floyd’s graphical designer who was absolutely thrilled about it. She was so fascinated about the picture that the group decided to use it for the promotional photo book marking the 30th anniversary of their presence on the global music scene. That is how Kemal Hadžić’s name became part of the iconic band’s remake album along with the names of notable photographers such as Jill Furmanovsky, Mark Fisher, Neal Preston, Peter Woods, Brian D. McLaughlin, Bob Jenkins and Roberta Booth.

IMAGE IN THE SARAJEVO WINTER FESTIVAL’S POSTER Over the years, authorship for the iconic image of cellist Vedran Smajlagić playing his instrument in the rubble of the City Hall has been attributed to other photographers when, in fact, Hadžić is its author. Ibrahim Spahić, Sarajevo Winter Festival manager, discovered this, and he used the image in the 1993 edition of the iconic event’s poster.

SARAJEVAN WITH AN AMERICAN ADDRESS After the war, Kemal Hadžić changed his home address when he moved from Sarajevo to America. He now lives, works and creates in Phoenix, Arizona. Even though he shoots images of landscapes in Arizona, Sarajevo still remains his favourite place to photograph. He exhibited his images in state capitals in the U.S., the former Soviet Union and Europe. At the invitation of Václav Havel, a statesman and a great friend of Bosnia and Herzegovina, he exhibited his wok in Czechia, and was greatly honoured to have Otto von Habsburg, heir of the famous royal dynasty and the then Crown Prince of Austria-Hungary, open the exhibition. He is a member of the World Photography Association and Zvono Art Group, which is where he generally exhibits his work when he comes to Sarajevo. He also displayed his art at the Charlama Gallery and the Cultural Centre at Jelićeva Street.

I ZVIJEZDE SU ODABRALE SVJETLOST... OD SADA MOGUÄ&#x2020;NOST LASERSKE OPERACIJE KATARAKTE I DIOPTRIJE. Klinika Svjetlost Sarajevo, Dr. Mustafe Pintola 23, Sarajevo, +387 33 762 772 103

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LISABON

Grad na rijeci Težo JEDAN JE OD ONIH SPECIFIČNIH, POMALO BOEMSKIH GRADOVA, KOJI VAM ZBOG SVOJE JEDNOSTAVNOSTI I OPUŠTENOSTI UVIJEK OSTAJU U SRCU Autor: Ivana DUKČEVIĆ

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LISABON

A City on the Tejo

IT IS ONE OF THOSE UNIQUE, SOMEWHAT BOHEMIAN CITIES, WHERE EVERYTHING IS SIMPLE AND EVERYONE IS RELAXED, A CITY WHICH TRULY STAYS WITH YOU EVEN LONG AFTER YOU HAVE LEFT IT Author: Ivana DUKČEVIĆ

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etajući Lisabonom nećete vidjeti mnogo od umivenosti i dotjeranosti Londona ili Pariza, ali su ipak na svakom ćošku, zgradi, pločniku ili trgu vidljivi znaci njegovog nekadašnjeg sjaja. Lisabon (na portugalskom Lišbóa) je grad koji morate otkrivati sami, pješice, uvijek i iznova. U tome vam mogu pomoći Lišboétaš - kako sebe, na portugalskom nazivaju stanovnici Lisabona - njih 565 000 (šire gradsko i prigradsko područje: oko 2,8 miliona).

ZANIMLJIVA PIJACA LOPOVA Grad su oko 1200. p.n.e. osnovali Kartaginjani kao Allis Ubbo (“sigurna luka”), da bi od 205. godine p. n. e postao dio rimske provincije Luzitanije kao Olissipo. Tokom historije, Lisabonom su prohujali Kelti, Feničani, Rimljani, Vizigoti i Mavari. Centar nekadašnjeg mavarskog Lisabona nalazio se na mjestu sadašnje Alfame (od arapskog: al-hamma, što znači “izvor”) - najstarijeg dijela grada. Smješten na prostoru podno zidina tvrđave Kastelo Sao Žorže (Castelo São Jorge), istočno od centra - Baiše, ovaj kraj čine mali trgovi i lavirint uskih, strmih ulica koje se spuštaju od tvrđave, često presjecajući dugačke stepenice sa gelenderima. I danas je ovo stambena četvrt sa starim tavernama, u kojima se uz tipične zvuke fada, služe specijaliteti portugalske kuhinje. Jedna od atrakcija Alfame je pijaca Mercado de Santa Clara, koja svakog utorka i subote postaje buvlja pijaca “Feira da Ladra” (“Pijaca lopova”). Interesantno je da u prevodu naziva “Pijaca lopova”, “ladra” je imenica ženskog roda, te se naziv ustvari odnosi na ženske lopove! Na ovoj pijaci, osim antikvarnih predmeta i svakojakih suvenira, možete pazariti i originalne portugalske pločice - azuležose. 106

GRADSKE USPINJAČE KAO SVOJEVRSNI SIMBOL LISABONA Većina ulica donjeg grada - Baiše i danas nose imena kao u vrijeme kada je ovaj dio grada u XVIII vijeku poslije rekonstrukcije postao bankarski i trgovački centar Lisabona: Rua do Ouro (Zlatna ulica), Rua da Prata (Srebrna ulica), Rua dos Sapeteiros (Ulica Obućara) itd. Vjerovatno najpoznatija ulica Baiše - Rua Augusta završava se kitnjastim prolazom na obali rijeke Tejo (Težo), na trgu Praça de Comércio, nekadašnjem Terreiro do Paço - trgu kraljevske palate. Na trgu se danas nalazi okretnica starih, crvenih tramvaja koji turiste voze u obilazak Lisabona - Linha da Colinas. Centar grada Lisabona smjestio se kraj reke Težo, 17 km pred njen ulazak u Atlantik (jedno od najširih rječnih ušća na svijetu). Na sjeveru Lisabona 1998. godine sagrađen je prelijepi (i još uvijek) najduži most u Evropi koji ga premošćuje - ukupne dužine od 17,2 km. S obzirom na to da grad leži na 7 brda, za njegovo razgledanje prilično je važno da budete

u kondiciji. Iako je poznat po “elevadorima”, gradskim uspinjačama s početka XX vijeka koje i dalje funkcionišu, imaju isti izgled kao i prije 100 godina i prevoze putnike uzbrdo i nizbrdo strmih lisabonskih ulica, na većini mjesta ćete ipak morati pješke. Četiri gradske uspinjače svojevsni su simbol Lisabona: najstariji Elevador da Lavra (iz 1884. godine, prva gradska uspinjača na svijetu na vodeni pogon), najpoznatiji Elevador da Gloria, najpiktoreskniji Elevador da Bica (zapadno od centra, možda najljepša ulica Lisabona po kojoj vozi uspinjača - Rua da Bica Duarte Bela) i najkitnjastiji lift-elevador od kovanog gvožđa - Santa Justa (Santa Žusta) - stara drvena kabina unutar 32 m visokog, kitnjastog tornja filigranske dekoracije, u mreži konstrukcije kovanog gvožđa, sagrađena 1902. godine radi lakšeg stizanja do gornjeg grada – Bairro Alto. Duž šireg centra grada saobraća i čuveni stari, žuti ili crveni tramvaj (eléctrico) broj 28, uvezen davnih 90-tih godina XIX vijeka iz San Franciska, koji najviše koriste turisti, jer prolazi pored velikog broja najvažnijih gradskih znamenitosti.

OCEANARIUM, JEDNA OD NAJPOZNATIJIH ATRAKCIJA GRADA Širom Lisabona, na vrhovima brda i brežuljaka, nalaze se vidikovci (miradouro) sa predivnim pogledima na grad i rijeku Težo. Teško je reći sa kojeg od njih se pruža najljepši pogled na grad, ali to su Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcántara, vidikovac sa jugo-zapadnog dijela tvrđave Svetog Đorđa i sa vrha statue Hrista - Sanctuario de Cristo Rei, odakle se zaista vidi čitav Lisabon . Duž reke Težo u smjeru ka zapadu obavezno obiđite historijski dio grada - Belém, sa nekoliko najvažnijih spomenika kulture u manuelin stilu (nazvanom po pokrovitelju umjetnosti kralju Manuelu I - spoj kasno-gotskog stila i rane renesanse), koji su vremenom postali svojevrsni simboli grada i dio UNESCO-ve svjetske kulturne baštine. Osim prelijepog, kitnjastog bijelog manastira Mosterio dos Jerónimos (Mosterio dos Žeronimos) sagrađenog od enormnog bogatstva stečenog iz kolonije Zapadne Indije (prvenstveno zbog ekskluzivnog prava na trgovinu biberom), Pomorskog muzeja (Museu de Marinha), simpatične kule osmatračnice u moru - Torre de Belém, najljepšeg muzeja kitnjastih kočija na svijetu kojima bi i Pepeljuga pozavidjela - Museu Nacional dos Coches i spomenika portugalskim prekomorskim otkrićima - Padrão dos Descobrimentos, ispred kojeg se urezana u mermernom pločniku različitih boja nalazi ogromna mapa svijeta, ruže vjetrova i ruta kojim su portugalski moreplovci plovili otkrivajući svijet, simbol Belema je i najpoznatija poslastičarnica Lisabona „Antiga Confeitaria da Belém“ osnovana 1837.

ćerom (toliko se da naslutiti!), u XIX vijeku izmislile monahinje obližnjeg Žeronimo manastira, kako bi u doba kada je manastir zapao u finansijske probleme, prodajući kolače uspjele da se prehrane. Zahvaljujući izuzetnom ukusu, kolač je vremenom ušao u legendu, a rekord dnevne prodaje je 55 000 komada!

Probajte najčuvenije portugalske kolačiće „pasteis de nata“ (ili: pasteis de Belém) čiji recept se čuva u velikoj tajnosti. Interesantno je da su kružne kolačiće od žumanca, krema vanile i cimeta, sa prah še-

Na sjevero-istočnom obodu grada nalazi se i jedna od najpoznatijih atrakcija grada - Oceanarium (Okeanarijum), sa 4 ogromna tanka i 8000 biljnih i životinjskih vrsta svakog okeana pojedinačno, i central-

nim akvarijumom u sredini zapremine 5 miliona litara vode. Na obali možete se prošetati kraj rijeke i voziti žičarom koja ka tornju Torre Vasco da Gama, blizu istoimenog, najdužeg mosta Evrope. U novim, lijepo uređenim avenijama ovog kraja, na malim kružnim tokovima postavljene su interesantne, modernističke fontane, od kojih su najinteresantnije one u plavo-zelenim ili narandžasto-crvenim pločicama u obliku “osvijetljenog” vulkana iz kojeg teče “lava” - voda koja izbija iz sredine fontane i curi niz pločice. 107

PUTOVANJA / TRAVEL

alking in Lisbon, you will hardly notice the kind of glamour and allure of London or Paris, but still, every corner, building, pavement or square tells a story of its glorious past. Lisbon is a city you will have to discover yourself, on foot and anew each time you visit. The city residents, some 565 thousand of them, will gladly help you accomplish that mission (wide metropolitan area has a population of about 2.8 million).

INTERESTING THIEVES’ MARKET The city was first found about 1200 BCE by Carthaginians who named it Allis Ubbo (“safe heaven”). In 205 BCE, it became a part of the Roman province of Lusitania and was renamed Olissipo. Throughout its long history, Lisbon was a home to Celts, Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors. The centre of what was Moorish dominated Lisbon at the time was located at the site of today’s Alfama (from Arabic: al-hamma, which means “the source”) – the oldest district of the city. Located right below the walls of the Castelo São Jorge fortress, east from the centre – this district is made of small squares and mazes of narrow steep alleys descending from the fortress often intertwined with long stairs with railings. Today, it is a residential area with lots of old taverns which serve traditional Portuguese dishes. One of Alfama’s attractions is Mercado de Santa Clara bazaar, which turns into a flea market “Feira da Ladra” (thieves’ market) each Tuesday and Saturday. It is interesting to note that “Ladra” is the feminine form of the noun, which suggests that the name of the market really refers to female thieves. This is the place where one can easily get all sorts of antique items and souvenirs including original Portuguese ceramic tiles – azulejos. 108

CITY CABLE CARS AS A SYMBOL OF LISBON Most of the streets in the Lisbon downtown – Baixa kept their original names first given to them at the time when this part of the city became banking and trading hub back in the XVIII century, after the reconstruction, and so we have Rua do Ouro (the Gold Street), Rua da Prata (the Silver Street), Rua dos Sapeteiros (the Shoemakers’ Street), and so on. Probably the most famous street of Baixa - Rua Augusta, ends with the elaborate passageway on the bank of the river Tejo, placed on the Praça de Comércio square, which was once called Terreiro do Paço – Royal Palace Square. The square is also a home to the terminal station for the old red streetcars taking the visitors on a tour of Lisbon. Lisbon centre is nested right by the Tejo, some 17 km away from its estuary, which is among world’s widest. In 1998, the estuary was bridged by a gorgeous and (still) longest bridge in Europe with the total length of 17.2 km. Since the city lies on

seven hills, sight-seeing requires a reasonable level of physical fitness. Though the city is well known for its cable cars built in early 20th century, which still operate and look the same as 100 years ago, one must still go on foot to most city landmarks. Four city cable cars are the symbols of Lisbon: the oldest, Elevador da Lavra, (built back in 1884, the first ever water-powered city cable car), the most famous of all, Elevador da Gloria, the most picturesque, Elevador da Bica, (west from the centre, going up and down what’s perhaps the most beautiful street of Lisbon - Rua da Bica Duarte Bela), and most extravagantly embellished cable car, made of cast iron - Santa Justa – with old wooden cabin placed within 32 m high, elaborately decorated tower with latticework ornaments in cast iron framework, built in 1902 for easy access to the upper town – Bairro Alto. The famous old electric tram number 28 with yellow or red cars operates along the city centre area. It was imported in 1890s from San Francisco and is predominantly used by tourists, as it passes by the most popular city attractions.

historical part of the city, Belém, with some of the most important cultural monuments built in Manueline style (named after the benefactor or art, King Manuel I, this style is typified by mix of late gothic and early renaissance influences). Over time, these monuments became symbols of the city protected under the UNESCO world heritage programme.

LISBON OCENARIUM, ONE OF THE MOST NOTABLE CITY ATTRACTIONS Lookouts spread across Lisbon, offering unforgettable view of the city and the Tejo. It is hard to decide which of them offers the most spectacular view, but Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcántara, a lookout on the south-west corner of the St. George Fortress and the one on top of the Christ Statue, Sanctuario de Cristo Rei, offer the view of the entire city. Along the river westward, rests the

In addition to gorgeous ornamental white monastery, Mosterio dos Jerónimos, built using the enormous wealth flowing in at the time from West Indies colonies (primarily due to exclusive rights to pepper trade), Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha), a charming lookout tower in the sea - Torre de Belém, the Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches) with the most beautiful display of ornamental coaches, breath-taking enough to impress the likes of Cinderella and a monument complex dedicated to Portuguese overseas discoveries - Padrão dos Descobrimentos, which includes engraved display in colourful marble pavement right below the monuments of a huge world map with wind rose and sail routes followed by Portuguese seamen on their voyages around the world, another gem of Belem, a symbol of this part of town, is the most famous pastry shop in Lisbon, Antiga Confeitaria da Belém, found in 1837. Make sure you try the most famous Portuguese cookies, the so-called “pasteis de

nata” (or: pasteis de Belém), made to a secret recipe carefully guarded by generations of pastry chefs. Interestingly enough, these circular cookies made of egg yolks, vanilla cream and cinnamon (that much is clear), were first made in the 19th century by nuns of the nearby St. Geronimo monastery, who struggled to overcome financial difficulties the monastery found itself in, by making cookies to make a living. Exquisite quality and flavour made these cookies legendary. The cookies sell quite well even centuries later, with incredible and still undefeated record of 55,000 cookies sold in a single day. One of the most notable city attractions, Lisbon Ocenarium is located on north-east city outskirts. It is a home to four enormous tanks with 8,000 animal and plant species from each of the oceans and one central aquarium in the middle, which holds incredible five million litres of water. One can take a walk by the river and take a cableway to the Tower of Vasco da Gama, close to Europe’s longest bridge, which is coincidentally named the same. The new and modern avenues of the area end in roundabouts which display fascinating modern fountains, the most interesting of which are made in blue-green and orange-red tiles in the shape of a volcano which spews “lava”, as the water gushes from the centre of the fountain and pours down the colourful tiles.

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KUHINJA / KITCHEN

BON APPÉTIT BILJNA ISHRANA PREDSTAVLJA PODRUČJE ZANIMLJIVIH OKUSA KOJI NE IZISKUJU VELIKE KULINARSKE VJEŠTINE. DOVOLJNO JE DA IMATE ŽELJU PROBATI DRUGAČIJE. BUDITE SIGURNI, ZADOVOLJSTVO ČULA NEĆE IZOSTATI

A PLANT-BASED DIET IS PACKED WITH INTERESTING FLAVOURS AND DOES NOT REQUIRE ADVANCED COOKING SKILLS. YOU JUST NEED TO BE WILLING TO TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT. YOUR TASTE BUDS WILL BE DELIGHTED INDEED

SUPA OD KARFIOLA Karfiol spada u popularne sorte povrća, ne samo zato što je zdrav, nego i zbog toga što se može pripremati na raznovrsne načine. Supa od karfiola dobar je uvod u bilo koji meni. Sadržaj: - glavica karfiola - ½ glavice luka srebrenca - 4 čehna bijelog luka - 1 dmBio povrtna kocka - 2 male kašike himalajske soli - 1 mala kašika zahter začina - 100 ml biljnog mlijeka Priprema Karfiol izrezati na cvjetove, te peći u rerni uz mali dodatak maslinovog ulja 30 minuta. Potom cvjetove prebaciti u šerpu, dodati vodu u visini povrća, izrendani luk srebrenac, bijeli luk, začine i dmBio kocku. Kuhati desetak minuta. Dodati biljno mlijeko i pustiti nekoliko minuta da se ukuha. Supa je gotova i spremna za serviranje.

CAULIFLOWER SOUP Cauliflower is a popular vegetable not only because it is rich in healthy nutrients, but also because there are a number of ways to cook it. Cauliflower soup is a good way to start a meal. Ingredients: - 1 head cauliflower - ½ silver skin onion - 4 cloves garlic - 1 dmBio vegetable stock cube - 2 small tablespoons Himalayan salt - 1 small tablespoon Zaatar spice blend - 100 ml plant milk. Directions Cut up cauliflower into florets, add a dash of olive oil, and bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Place the cauliflower florets into a pot, add enough water to cover the cauliflower, and add chopped silver skin onion, garlic, spices and dmBio vegetable stock cube. Cook for about ten minutes. Add plant milk and let simmer for a few minutes. It is cooked and ready to be served. 110

Elma Zećo

VRGANJ I LISIČARKA S BASMATI RIŽOM Vrganj – u poređenju s drugim gljivama ova vrsta sadrži poprilično mnogo proteina. Bogata je također aminokiselinama i vlaknima. Lisičarka – 100 g sadrži 11 Kcal, 0,5 g masti i 0,2 g ugljikohidrata. Čini je 92% vode.

PENNY BUNS AND ASHEN CHANTERELLE WITH BASMATI RICE Penny Bun – in comparison with some other types of mushrooms, it contains large amounts of protein. It is also rich in fibre and amino acids. Ashen Chanterelle – 100 g contains 11 Kcal, 0,5 g of fat and 0,2 g of carbohydrates. It is 92% water.

Divlje gljive vrganj i lisičarka aromatične su i svojim okusima lijepo se slažu s basmati rižom. Ovaj obrok se lako priprema. Gljive izrezati na komade, staviti u tepsiju, politi s malo biljnog ulja, te začiniti solju, kurkumom i 3, 4 na komadiće izrezana čeh� na bijelog luka. Izrendati komad bijelog veganskog sira i posuti po gljivama. Zagrijati rernu i ispeći. Dok se gljive peku, basmati rižu skuhati, oprati, staviti na tavu s dodatkom Omegol margarina. Stalno miješati. Dodati kurkumu i so.

Penny Bun and Ashen Chanterelle are aromatic wild mushrooms whose flavours go really well with basmati rice. This dish is easy to cook. Slice the mushrooms, place them on a baking pan, spray a bit of vegetable oil over them, and season with a little salt, turmeric and 3-4 chopped up cloves of garlic. Grate a chunk of vegan cheese and sprinkle over the mushrooms. Heat up the oven and bake. While mushrooms are baking, cook and rinse the rice after it is cooked. Place it in a pan, add Omergol margarine. Stir constantly. Add turmeric and salt.

Servirati gljive preko riže.

Spread the mushrooms on top of the rice.

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