Home Improvement and Repairs Late Spring 2022 by HomeImprovementAndRepairs

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

FENCE BUILDING BASICS ISSUE #17 MAY/JUNE 2022

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE MAKE RUSTIC BOARD-AND-BATTEN SHUTTERS FROM GENUINE CEDAR THE WAR AGAINST WOOD ROT TOP 5 RENTAL TOOLS FOR DIY’ERS HOT PRODUCTS FROM THE NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW

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FENCE BUILDING BASICS

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • HOT PRODUCTS FROM THE NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW • INJURIES ON THE RISE FROM DIY HOME IMPROVEMENT • SUNNY OUTLOOK FOR OUTDOOR PROJECTS • CEMENT SHORTAGES IN THE SOUTHERN US • ASK MATT TOOL TECH TOP 5 RENTAL TOOLS FOR DIY’ERS SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS HOW TO MAKE RUSTIC BOARD-AND-BATTEN SHUTTERS FROM GENUINE CEDAR SKILL SET THE WAR AGAINST WOOD ROT

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

MODERATE

KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

Things are getting hairy in America. I’m finding it difficult to keep track of the mounting calamities. Inflation is grinding down every family budget, gas prices seem to have no ceiling, and the pandemic refuses to go away for good. Everyone worries about war, we’re hearing whispers of a recession, and as I type this letter,

the shadow of higher mortgage interest rates. Renters are getting pinched as well, as prices are climbing along with the cost of groceries. There seems to be no economic relief in sight, but I always try to remember the old adage, “I cried when I had no shoes, until I met the man with no feet.” In other words, when

so keep tabs on your local food bank and contribute when you’re able. Join a neighborhood message-board to keep track of volunteer initiatives and donation drives. And be friendly to one another, because everyone is under stress. If everybody pulls together, maybe we can soon stop fretting

THINGS ARE LIKELY TO GET WORSE BEFORE THEY GET BETTER, SO STAY ALERT TO YOUR SURROUNDINGS FOR PEOPLE IN NEED. the country is in the grip of a babyformula shortage. Supplies of everything are scarce, and the nation feels rudderless. All that being said, most of our readers are homeowners, and that status alone gives you a position that many others will envy. Young up-and-comers are now delaying the purchase of new homes in

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

you think you have it tough, someone else always has it tougher. It seems our leaders are asleep at the wheel, so it’s left up to us to take up the mantle on behalf of our communities. Things are likely to get worse before they get better, so stay alert to your surroundings for people in need. The less fortunate will suffer the most,

ADVISORY BOARD JIM BUTTERS RANDY STEPHENSEN DUSTIN SCHWAIGER RICHARD HAMILTON CHIP LOVELADY MARK CLEMENT

over the state of the world and go back to worrying about choosing the right color of paint for that new accent wall.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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STARTSMART 12 HOT PRODUCTS FROM THE NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW THE 2022 NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW WAS HELD IN APRIL IN LAS VEGAS. IN CASE YOU’RE WEREN’T ABLE TO ATTEND, HERE’S A ROUNDUP OF COOL TOOLS AND PRODUCTS THAT WERE ON DISPLAY.

1 MOBILE REVOLVING TOOL CART MFG: Montezuma Storage WEB: www.montezumastorage.com INFO: The Montezuma 3-Tier Steel Mobile Revolving Tool Cart provides greater visibility and access to your frequently used tools. This innovative, professional-level cart pulls right up to your project and puts your tools within easy reach. The 3-tier revolving top incorporates foam inserts, steel tines, pockets, an easel and a drawer to allow you to store and organize a variety of tools and equipment. A staging tray and a bottom tray are also included.

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2 ULTRA QUIET AIR COMPRESSOR MFG: California Air Tools WEB: www.californiaairtools.com INFO: The California Air Tools Light & Quiet 1P1060SP Portable Air Compressor is designed to be one of the quietest air compressors in the industry having only 56 decibels of sound. The .6 HP motor operates at only 1680 RPM creating less noise and less wear.

3 MOSQUITO BITS MFG: Summit Chemical WEB: www.summitchemical.com INFO: Just in time for spring, it's America's best-selling granular mosquito larvacide. Mosquito Bits also works as the biological control for fungus gnats in the soil of home, garden, and landscape plants and home mushroom beds. Granular application for mosquito larvae control ensures broad coverage in standing water and quick kill of mosquito larvae without affecting beneficial insects, fish, frogs, people, plants or pets.

4 YARD BUTLER HOSE REEL CART MFG: Yard Butler WEB: www.yardbutler.com INFO: This sturdy, balanced, and heavy-duty two-wheeled hose cart will end the struggling when moving and storing heavy garden hoses in your yard. Watering 50 yards away and need to reach a few more fruit trees? No problem. The IHT2-EZ is built for stability so it won't tip or drag even when you give it a yank. It tips back with perfect balance and wheels away effortlessly. It offers a 200-foot hose capacity, kink-free, leak-free, and rust-resistant design.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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> 5 NO SPILL GAS CAN MFG: No Spill, LLC WEB: www.nospill.com INFO: No Spill, LLC manufactures the No Spill Gas Can. Features such as a push-button control with auto-stop, along with view stripes, fast flow, and a Flame Mitigation Device set this product apart from all of the others. Made in the USA.

6 THE CAULKING FINGER MFG: FWMM Products, LLC WEB: www.thecaulkingfinger.com INFO: This crazy-looking thing is a caulk-smoothing tool like no other on the market today. It looks, feels, and performs like your own finger while saving yours from splinters and abrasions.

7 WATER SAVER W/RTF MFG: Barenbrug USA WEB: www.barusa.com INFO: Water Saver lawn seed mixture contains some of the most advanced, unique, tall fescues on the market. Providing the benefits of rhizomes not found in any other tall fescue varieties, Water Saver, w/RTF has the ability to quickly fill in damaged and bare spots in your lawn with new shoots of grass. This results in less over-seeding, fewer weed problems, and no wide-leafed ugly clumps of grass like other tall fescues can form.

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STARTSMART

8 SLIDA DRIVER AND SLIDA FILE MFG: Wilko Tools WEB: www.wilkotools.com.au INFO: These innovative dual-tipped screwdrivers and files are designed so the handles can not disengage from the sliding shafts, ensuring both shaft ends are always available via the releasing switch on the handle mechanism. It's a handy way to have a Phillip's head and flat-blade driver in one tool.

9 CURBALIGHT MFG: Curbalight WEB: www.amazon.com INFO: Curbalight offers an American-made prefabricated tree ring that includes a LED light strip with hundreds of color shades to choose from. This product offers beauty and security of all landscape designs.

10 QUICK DAM WATER ACTIVATED FLOOD BARRIERS MFG: Quick Dams WEB: www.quickdams.com INFO: Quick Dam Flood Barriers absorb, contain and divert problem flood water. Flood Barriers are water-activated and come in lengths of 5, 10 and 17 feet. They absorb, swell and gel oncoming water on contact to create a durable barrier. Flood Barriers are compact, lightweight and easy to use. They are easy to keep stored away until needed and reusable.

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> 11 RAPIDFIX MFG: Lighthouse for the Blind WEB: www.rapidfix.com INFO: RapidFix is a dual-component adhesive system comprised of a powerful, instant bonding adhesive and Welding Powder. The adhesive can be used alone or can be combined with the Welding Powder. The powder is formulated to harden instantly when it comes into contact with the adhesive. Together, the two are used to make repairs similar to a weld, as well as for filling holes, gaps and cracks. The adhesive dries crystal clear. The welding powder hardens opaque-white and can be painted immediately. The hardened welding powder can be instantly drilled, sanded, ground, filed and painted.

12 RMR-86 INSTANT MOLD & MILDEW STAIN REMOVER MFG: RMR Brands WEB: www.rmrsolutions.com INFO: In 2021, the RMR-86 Instant Mold & Mildew Stain Remover was recognized in over 20 publications as the Top Mold & Mildew product. Some of the most noted titles include: Bob Villa, Old House Journal, and Today’s Homeowner. The RMR-86 Instant Mold & Mildew Stain Remover is the FIRST Professional Grade Mold Stain and is available to the average consumer.

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STARTSMART INJURIES ON THE RISE FROM DIY HOME IMPROVEMENT Summer is approaching, which means home improvement injuries will be on the rise. Sometimes tackling a project yourself seems easier and cheaper than hiring a contractor, but the reality is that they come with the risk of bodily injury. In 2020, more than 290K home-improvement injuries needed to be treated in the ER, and over 24K required hospital admission. The analysts at the Clearsurance team used data from the National Electronic Injury Surveillance System (NEISS) to identify the most prevalent home-improvement injuries, which body parts were injured most, which tools were the most dangerous, and how the injuries were treated. A quick look at just how risky DIY home improvement projects can be: • There were 290,599 home improvement injuries requiring treatment at an emergency room and 24,534 home improvement injuries requiring hospital admission. • Lacerations (127,486) were the most common injury from home improvement projects followed by fractures (35,917) and contusions/abrasions (34,806).

• The most commonly injured body parts were fingers, hands, and eyeballs. • The most dangerous household tools that caused the most injuries were manual workshop tools (107,2850) and power saws (83,141). • Home improvement injuries increased during the warmer spring and summer months. With home improvement injuries accounting for 3% of all ER injury visits, Home Improvement & Repairs readers should realize just how risky DIY projects can be. Be careful out there. Read the full study at Clearsurance.com.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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> SUNNY OUTLOOK FOR OUTDOOR HOME IMPROVEMENTS Americans will be doing more outdoor home-improvement projects this spring, and they’ll be spending much more time on these tasks. According to the 2022 Axiom Home Improvement Outlook Survey, nearly 67% of homeowners say they will spend more time on outdoor home improvement projects this year than in 2021. Six in 10 respondents report they will spend between $1,000 and $5,000 on these projects. “Spring is the time for outdoor tasks,” says Mike Reiber CEO of Axiom Marketing. “But experts are telling us this boost in outsideof-the-house projects is more than seasonal. Since 2020, many Americans have focused on updating the interior of their homes. Now they’re turning their attention to projects that improve and update their outdoor environments to make them as nice as the inside of their homes.” According to the survey, the top five outdoor projects they’ll take on this year include adding new shrubs or trees, building or renovating a deck, adding a fence, expanding or creating a new flower garden, and exterior painting. How much are homeowners planning to spend? 48% of those surveyed said they’ll be

shelling out anywhere from $1,000 to $5,000 on projects. 28% say they’ll spend under $1,000. More than 15% expect to spend up to $10,000. Nearly 50% say they’ll pay for the projects in cash. Most homeowners will take on the jobs themselves with just over 41% saying the tasks will be do-it-yourself projects. Hiring a professional comes in a close second with nearly 38% of homeowners saying they’ll leave it to the pros. Download the full Axiom 2022 Home Improvement Outlook report here: https://axiomcom.com/2022-outdoorhome-improvement/

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STARTSMART DOME-SHAPED HOUSES FOR SEVERE WEATHER A contractor from Tuscaloosa, Al., is building semispherical houses to protect residents from severe weather. The domes are constructed with a web framework that strengthens their structural stability. According to John Johnson, owner of New Age Dome Construction, the houses are safer and less expensive, noting his is the only company in the industry with

domes certified for 250 mph winds, (The Enhanced Fujita scale rates an F5 tornado with wind-speed in excess of 200 mph.) “We recently had a call from the State of Alabama’s special investigator for the architects and engineer's board,” says Johnson. “He had an official request to verify our claims. After I blew up his email account with my ICC facts and test data, on the third morning, he officially closed the investigation.” The investigator’s response: “You got the goods.” Learn more at www.newagedomeconstruction.com.

TREX LAUNCHES HELPFUL “HOW-TO” RESOURCES WITH TREX ACADEMY With DIY’ers representing a considerable portion of the deck building/intending category, Trex Company, the world’s largest manufacturer of wood-alternative decking and railing, launched Trex Academy, an online multimedia content hub dedicated to helping DIY’ers bring their deck dreams to life. Housed within the Trex website, Trex Academy includes a robust mix of resources geared toward DIY’ers of all skill levels. Visitors have 16

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

the opportunity to explore the content at their own pace. The landing page features the following resources: Plan Your Deck – an ideal starting point with helpful tools for comparing and selecting materials, estimating costs, visualizing and drafting deck designs, ordering samples and finding nearby retailers and builders.

Get Started – covers key steps to building a deck, including important pre-build considerations, inspirational and shoppable Project Galleries for finding the perfect look, and expert advice and testimonials. How-To Guides – These detailed step-by-step instruction guides take you through every part of the process from planning and foundation work to installing decking, lighting and railing, plus finishing touches and even upcycling leftover materials. For more visual learners, Trex Academy also features a full YouTube playlist complete with 15 newly-produced, in-depth how-to videos covering the entire deck building process. Visit Trex Academy at www.trex.com/academy.

CEMENT SHORTAGES IN THE SOUTHERN US Cement shortages were reported in Alabama and South Carolina. Dan Crosby, president of South Carolina ready-mixed concrete supplier Metrocon, told Fox News that his business could only take on 60 percent of its normal workload. He blamed the problem on labor and supply shortages. Meanwhile, the Alabama Concrete Industries Association saw a 14% increase in the demand for concrete in 2021 but said that a cement shortage might cause delays to construction projects. The association also pointed the blame at labor and supply issues. It pointed out that high demand for concrete during the winter prevented inventory being built up and then the annual plant maintenance breaks in the spring added to the problems. Once contractors actually secured supplies of cement, they then faced further delays due to a nationwide truck driver shortage Source: www.GlobalCement.com

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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: How can I bend wood like I’ve seen on other people’s furniture projects?

ANSWER: I know of two ways to bend wood. The first is called kerf-cutting, which is the process of cutting a number of parallel slots into a piece of material that allow it to bend. Kerf refers to the width of material a sawblade removes when it cuts through wood. Kerf-cutting creates many closely positioned saw cuts across one face of a board which extend from edge to edge but are not deep enough to penetrate the opposite face. Essentially, by kerfing the wood, you are making the material on one side of the board thinner, so it can be flexed to follow a curve. While this method is not very strong, it does allow for easy forming of wide or tall parts for decorative use. Another method to create a curved piece of wood is to heat it with steam. Some woods such as oak respond well to steam-bending, and thinner stock sizes will bend easier (with less breakage) than thicker stock. You can find detailed instructions online for steam-bending. In general, you’ll need to make a box or container to enclose the board. A 4-in. diameter PVC drain pipe is a common steam container. The box should be sloped with a drain YOUR FAVORITE hole on one end and equipped with NON-SCRATCH SCRAPER a removable cap. Use a wallpaper TOOL JUST GOT steamer or similar device to push steam into an intake port along the top. Steam the wood for roughly one hour per each inch of its thickness. Remove the board with tongs, set it Save Time and into a form or clamps to bend it into Effort When Cleaning shape, then allow it to cool and Small Surfaces, stiffen.

WIDER! Edges & Grooves!

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Remove stickers, tape,caulk, putty, grime & more!

Available in original 2-packs, 5-packs and new wide blade 3-packs

Find us at www.scrigit-scraper.com, local hardware stores, and Amazon! 18

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H Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

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TOOL TECH

TOP 5 RENTAL TOOLS FOR DIY’ERS

Whether you’re tackling a small honey-do repair, or taking on a major home-improvement project, having the right tools makes it possible to work on projects you never thought were possible, no matter your skill level. If you’re ready to tackle your next DIY project, but don’t want to go all in on purchasing multiple tools that you may only use once, renting the tools you need could be your best solution. When making the choice between tool rental and buying, consider a few factors: storage, budget, and usage. Renting tools allows you to use the specific tool you need, for less money, without having to worry about it gathering dust in your garage or shed. According to the American Rental Association (ARA), there are hundreds of tools you could rent for a variety of projects. The ARA has detailed the top five tools used by DIY’ers when working in and around their homes—floor sander, paint

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

sprayer, power auger, ground tiller, and pressure washer—and what you need to know to get the most from these popular rental tools. FLOOR SANDER If you’ve got solid wood floors, maintaining the finish is a must after years of wear and tear. Did you know that depending on the type of hardwood floors in your home, they can be refinished up to 10 times before a complete replacement is needed? Unless you have a friend or neighbor who owns a floor sander, rental is likely your best option since this equipment is expensive to buy. With a floor sander rental, returning the luster to your hardwood flooring has become a much more accessible project for the average homeowner. There are two primary types of floor sanders: orbital and drum. Before tackling your refinishing project, it’s important to know the differences between the two sanders to properly complete your job.

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TOOL TECH

Orbital floor sanders are more popular for DIY hardwood refinishing. An orbital floor sander allows you to reach the edges and corners, so in many cases renting an edger is not needed. Orbital floor sanders oscillate to sand the surface, eliminating the need to follow the grain of the wood as you work. If you are looking to remove deeper scratches, you will need to make multiple passes, which does take time. Be sure to take your time, as rushing can cause errors. Moving too quickly, not waiting for the sander to reach the full speed before lowering it to the floor, or turning it off while it’s on the floor can all result in damage.

When visiting your local rental store, be sure to consult the rental professionals on which type of sander fits your comfort level and flooring needs. They can also help you with selecting the proper sanding grit and may offer training before you start your project.

Drum floor sanders can make quick work of sanding but can be challenging to use for beginners and present the highest risk of causing damage. Drum floor sanders require a constant, steady pace, following the grain of the wood. Changing pace or stopping—even for a moment—-can cause gouge marks or valleys. It’s best to practice on a testing surface for anyone new to floor sanding. An edge sander is often rented for the same projects as a drum floor sander to sand the edges around baseboards.

fresh color in less time, and with a professional looking finish. Paint sprayers take a little practice, but once you’re comfortable, the result is smooth and much less time-consuming than traditional painting. With the time and energy saved using a rented paint sprayer, you can paint additional rooms, closet doors, shutters, patio furniture or anything else that needs a fresh finish or color. Paint sprayers are also an option for staining your deck or fence in less time and with less cleanup than a manual application.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

PAINT SPRAYER A fresh coat of paint can dramatically change a space, but not too many homeowners get excited about the thought of buying the rollers and drop cloths for a painting session. Renting a paint sprayer could be the answer to adding an accent wall or giving your kitchen cabinets a

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> With a variety of paint sprayers on the market, it’s important to have the correct one for your project. Be sure to consult the rental professionals at your local rental store on which type of sprayer you need. Some paint sprayers are equipped with multiple spray patterns and pressures and may require paint to be thinned for best results. Your rental partner may also assist with calculating the amount of paint needed based on the size and type of surface. For instance, one gallon of paint will cover about 150 to 200 square feet of wall when applied with a paint sprayer. POWER AUGER Ready to finally fix that sagging section of your fence or add a deck to your outdoor oasis? Save yourself time and trouble by avoiding the manual posthole digger and go straight for the

power auger rental. The corkscrew-like machine can give you deeper holes for your fence posts or deck structure in a fraction of the time with virtually no back strain. Power augers come in one-person and two-person sizes, depending on how large of a hole you may need and what type of soil you have. A knowledgeable rental consultant can make sure you have the appropriate auger bits, bit extensions, digging bar and other accessories that you will need to complete your project successfully. ROTARY TILLER Setting up a home garden or giving your grass a refresher has never been easier with a rotary tiller. Since this is a tool you

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WHETHER YOU HIRE A PRO OR BUILD IT YOURSELF, THESE CONSTRUCTION FUNDAMENTALS WILL HELP YOUR NEW FENCE STAND THE TEST OF TIME.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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SKILL LEVEL

FENCE BUILDING BASICS

HARD

By Matt Weber

A new fence can add value, privacy and security to your home. The right fence design can also keep outdoor pets confined to the yard, and keep stray animals from wandering onto your property. Here are a few tips for fence construction that we’ve learned over the years.

DESIGN Research the many available fence designs and sketch a rough plan on paper, listing the overall length, height, style, number of posts and stringers. Calculate how many pickets you’ll need for one panel section between two posts (based on picket width and desired pattern), then multiply that figure by the total number of panel sections to determine the total number of pickets you’ll need. For a 6-ft. tall wooden privacy fence, the support posts can be made from 8-ft. treated 4×4s. The posts should be approved for ground contact. The horizontal stringers (also called fence rails or runners) can be made from 8-ft. 2×4 pressure-treated boards. Treated lumber is the most common and budgetfriendly material for framing a fence.

An air-powered framing nailer will be your best friend when building a wooden fence.

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FENCE BUILDING BASICS

LAYOUT To begin installation, pinpoint the location of each corner post. Drive a stake into each corner-post location and run a taut string between the stakes. Walk the fence line with your tape measure and spray-paint an “X” to mark each post, which are usually spaced 6 to 8 feet on center. The shorter the distance between fence posts, the stronger the fence. Be sure to avoid spacing the posts any wider than the length of your stringers. When laying out the fence, keep in mind how the ends of the stringers will attach to the posts. Stringers can be fastened between two posts with toenails or hardware, or the stringers can be facenailed to the outside of the posts with their ends butting together in the middle. POST HOLES Check your local code guidelines when digging post holes. A good rule of thumb for a strong post installation is to bury 1/3 the depth of the post height. For example, a 6-ft. tall fence will typically require posts made of 8-ft. 4×4 installed in a 2-ft. hole (because 1/3 of 6 = 2). You should also add about s A drain spade and a post-hole digger are two tools that prove useful during fence construction.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

A post level features separate plumb vials that measure two adjacent faces of a post at once.

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4 inches to that digging depth to have room for a bed of drainage gravel before setting the posts. The post holes usually measure 12-18 inches wide. Note that colder climates might require deeper post holes to avoid frost heave. Before digging, it’s also a good idea to call “811” nationally to get any underground utility lines, cables or pipes marked for free. POSTS Set the corner posts first. Make sure the square face of the posts will align with the fence path. Use a level to make sure the post is plumb. You can use ready-mix concrete sold in bags to set the posts. Once you have the corner posts held in plumb position (using temporary braces or an assistant), pour the mix into the hole dry, straight from the bag. Once the post base is covered, pour water over the dry mix according to the amount recommended on the package. For sturdy fence posts, use about 75 lbs. pounds of dry concrete per post. Run a taut string between the corner posts as a guide to mark and position the remaining fence posts. Keep the string flush with the outside face of the posts and secure it tightly. Set the remaining posts in the same manner,

Align the fence posts between the corner posts using a taut string as a guide.

making sure their outside faces are plumb and lined up exactly with the string to keep the fence straight. Allow the concrete in the posts to set for 24 hours. Once the concrete has hardened, cover it with dirt and use a hand tamper to compact the ground around the bottom, sloping the soil away from the post.

s The white board serves as a “story pole,” which is a scrap board that I marked with black tape. The tape indicates the locations of each stringer height. I align the story pole against each fence post and mark the stringer placement for attachment later.

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FENCE BUILDING BASICS

s You can pour the ready-mix concrete around the post base while it’s still dry, then add water.

STRINGERS For a standard 6-ft. tall fence, it’s common to position the bottom stringer 10 inches up from the ground. (You might need to alter placement, depending on the height of your fence.) Space the other two stringer rails evenly apart. The spacing between posts will vary a little, so each stringer should be measured and cut to length individually to fit the panel sections. Keep a circular saw and sawhorses handy to cut the stringers.

PICKETS A pneumatic framing nailer will greatly speed up picket installation. Fasten the pickets to the stringers using hot-dipped galvanized nails (3- to 3-1/2 inches long)

with ringed shanks for extra holding power. Make sure your fasteners are approved for exterior use in chemically treated lumber. If you plan to conceal your posts behind the fence, use a reciprocating saw to chop off all the post tops at the same height (shorter than the pickets) prior to installing the pickets. If you plan to leave the posts exposed above the fence pickets, you can cut them later. Attach the pickets flush against the stringers. Place the first picket along the corner post and drive one nail through the board at the top. Use the nail to pivot the board plumb, checking its position with a 4ft. level. Once in position, finish nailing the board in place, using at least two nails per stringer location. Place a spacer block next to the first picket and position the second picket against it. Nail the second picket using the same pattern at each stringer location. Repeat for all pickets. To make sure the fence boards line up consistently, you can level the ground between each pair of posts and lay a temporary 2×4 flat along the ground. By sitting the pickets on the 2×4, the board tops install in a straight line, and the gap beneath them (once the 2×4 is removed) keeps the board ends off the ground to reduce moisture damage and rot.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

On this fence we opted to face-nail the stringers over the posts.

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KNOW YOUR FENCE TERMS POSTS—vertical support members STRINGERS—a.k.a. rails, are the horizontal support members PICKETS—fence boards attached to the stringers

PANELS—assembled fence sections between the posts

We used the edge of a board as a spacing block between pickets.

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FENCE BUILDING BASICS

On the fence shown, we covered the first layer of fence pickets with a second layer, using the same spacing pattern but staggering the joints. The second layer adds strength and rigidity to the fence. Each post top was cut level in preparation for a post cap. Post caps protect the posts from rain and moisture soaking into the wood’s end-grain and causing rot.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

H Editor’s Note: Thanks to Jay and Jennifer Whitley for help with this article.

s No matter what design you select, consistent spacing of the pickets is crucial for a good-looking fence. On the project shown, the pickets were face-nailed together, with the joints staggered between layers.

s Most privacy fences are built with three stringers per panel section to prevent the boards from bowing, but since this fence had two layers of pickets nailed together, the builders went with two stringers. The posts were cut in preparation for post caps.

Protect your new fence with a waterproof stain/sealer, which also provides the opportunity to apply your color tone of choice.

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s Post caps protect the posts from rain and moisture soaking into the wood’s end-grain and causing rot. Photo © Deckorators

SMART TIPS FOR A GREAT FENCE A great fence is one that does the job you want and stands the test of time. It’s beautifully designed, complements the home, and remains straight and solid for years and years after it’s installed. The experts at Great Southern Wood Preserving Co., the makers of Yellawood, offer these insightful secrets to building the best fence. Ensure solid grounding. Setting posts in concrete footings secures them firmly in place. It’s good practice to extend each footing

above ground and to taper the top (like a cone). The taper will ensure that water drains away from the posts. Concrete is crucial beneath large double gates because the leverage imposed by the gates on the posts can pull their tops toward the middle, causing the gates to bind. Insist on high-quality lumber. “With good design and attention to detail, treated Southern pine makes a long-lasting and attractive fence,” says Ambler, Penn. contractor Mark

Clement. “It’s also visually and physically substantial.” High-quality treated wood has a natural beauty that requires no coating, but it can also be stained or painted to match the home. Seal all end cuts. If you look at the end of a board under a microscope, it looks like a bundle of drinking straws. So, it’s no surprise that’s where water will most likely be sucked into the grain. Sealing field c u t s w i t h a c o p p pree r n a p h t servative is always a good idea.

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FENCE BUILDING BASICS SMART TIPS FOR A GREAT FENCE (CONT.) Monroe, LA contractor Mike Davis, a restoration specialist with 30 years’ experience, goes a step further and seals the end of every board in each fence. Bevel all horizontal surfaces. Many fences include copperclad post caps, but if you’re not using caps, it’s a good idea to cut the post top so that it sheds water. Less common but also very helpful is to bevel the tops of all the rails—top, middle, bottom—for the same reason.

Build in drainage. This is a detail very few fence builders even know about. Installing a drainage mat wherever two boards are sandwiched together goes a long way toward reducing the chance of rot. Use a landscape reinforcement fabric stapled to the back of the horizontal stringer. The mat compresses tightly enough to permit a secure connection between the two boards while leaving just enough gap for the board to dry out. Space wet fence pickets tightly. When building a stockade fence, it is equally important to butt wet pickets together. Just as with deck

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

boards, some shrinkage will occur as the pickets dry. By butting the pickets together during construction, you will minimize the gap left between the pickets after they dry. Drill pilot holes. When nailing or screwing near the edge or end of a board, pilot holes will help minimize splitting. Use corrosion-resistant fasteners. YellaWood® preserved wood products are designed for long-term

performance in outdoor applications and, therefore, require high-quality, corrosion-resistant nails, screws and other fasteners. Apply a weather-resistant finish. Any exposed wood, pressure-treated or not, should be protected from the weather. Application of a quality, clear water repellent or semi-transparent stain that contains a water repellent will help minimize the cycles of moisture takeup and loss the wood goes through outdoors. One of these products should be applied as soon as possible after construction is completed.

First, thoroughly clean your project. A clear water repellent can then be applied. If you choose to use a semi-transparent stain that contains a water repellent, you need to first check that your project is surface dry to assure proper penetration of the stain. This can be tested by sprinkling a few drops of water on the wood surface. If the wood readily absorbs the water, apply the semi-transparent stain immediately. If the wood does not absorb the water, wait several days and retest. If you've chosen to build with a product that contains a factory-applied water repellent, an oil-based stain can be applied in 30 to 60 days and water-based stains can be applied after six months. For the best results, water repellents should be applied annually, and stains should be re-applied as needed. In all instances, follow the manufacturer's directions. UNCOMMON PRACTICES, UNCOMMON FENCES. Many contractors understand the wisdom behind these details, but relatively few are in the habit of making bevels, sealing end cuts, or building in drainage. If you want that, you’ll need to write it into the specifications, then confirm that the work gets done. The reason these details are uncommon is that they add cost. It’s up to the homeowner to decide if that’s worth the better quality. But remember that “you get what you pay for” is only a cliché because it’s true. Learn more about building with treated lumber at www.yellawood.com.

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SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS By Matt Weber Anyone can make shabby board-and-batten shutters. Go grab three long boards off a shelf, nail a couple short boards across them, and voilà! You’ve got rustic shutters … right? Maybe even squirt some caulk between the boards, because, why not?! You shouldn’t do that because wood swells and contracts with changes in temperature, causing separation between the joints and resulting in that melted cheese look from the caulk failing between your shutter boards. It ain’t pretty. And now it’s on the front of your house. The truth is that you get what you pay for, and the guys at Rustic Shelves & Shutters of Gardendale, Alabama, build theirs to look great and last long. Their decorative shutters are made from genuine cedar, and the vertical boards are all edge-joined with wood biscuits and strengthened with Titebond III wood glue, then clamped into a solid unit. They offer router detailing, sanding and/or planing for the texture of your preference, plus a wide array of finish options. Once stained and fully assembled, a UV protective clear-coat is applied and a water-seal coating is added to the backs. WHY CEDAR? The shutters from Rustic Shelves & Shutters are all made of genuine cedar lumber. Cedar is versatile, sustainable and beautiful with rich color tones in the grain, which is also free of pitch and resin, making it ideal for accepting a wide range of finishes. Compared to other coniferous woods, cedar is dimensionally stable with a very low shrinkage factor, so

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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SKILL LEVEL

3 HARD

HOW TO MAKE RUSTIC BOARDAND-BATTEN SHUTTERS FROM GENUINE CEDAR

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SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS

it resists warping, twisting and checking—critical to the look and performance of your shutters. Cedar is also an excellent choice for outdoor applications thanks to its natural durability. The wood contains natural oils that make it resistant to rot, decay and insect attacks. Properly finished and maintained, cedar will deliver decades of trouble-free service. MEASURING Most homeowners prefer shutters to match the height of the window glass. Some customers

Board-and-batten shutters look deceptively simple to construct, but poorly-built shutters will soon show signs of deterioration.

Carpenters who make shutters on a regular basis will use a thickness planer to process the boards before assembly. The crew at Rustic Shelves & Shutters relies on the DeWalt DW735 13” two-speed planer.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

The wood texture will affect the final finish. Smooth-sanded surfaces tend to show more grain detail while roughsawn textures absorb more stain for a darker, more uniform look.

When cutting several boards to the same length on a miter saw, measure one board and set a stop to cut the rest. Some miter-saw stands come equipped with a stop, or you can make your own by attaching a fence to a workbench square to your miter saw’s fence.

request shutters slightly taller than the window, but you should avoid making shutters that will be too short for the window. The width of the shutters will be determined by the style and taste of the homeowner, but a good rule of thumb is to limit each shutter’s width to half the width of the window. The most commonly available board sizes for rustic cedar shutters are 1x4 and 1x6, which can be configured in a variety of patterns for decorative appeal. The basics of construction rely on vertical boards edge-joined into a panel with horizontal or diagonal battens attached on top, which adds strength to the construction.

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Add any sort of edge-routing detail prior to cutting the biscuit slots in the boards.

The RS&S crew uses a DeWalt DW682 plate joiner to cut slots at each half-circle mark along the board edges.

To mark the biscuit slots, arrange the boards edge to edge with all ends flush. Label the boards in sequence, draw square lines across the panel at each biscuit-slot location, then draw circles where each line intersects the joints between boards.

but a professional will find a power planer incredibly useful if making shutters on a regular basis. When it is necessary, the RS&S crew uses a DeWalt DW735 thickness planer to level all the boards to the same size. The best practice is to give the boards shallow passes through the planer to remove the least amount of material necessary. A planer is also a good time- and labor-saving tool to smooth the wood surface instead of sanding the boards. The wood texture ultimately impacts the look of the shutter. Once a stain is applied, smooth board textures tend to show more grain differentiation than rough-sawn wood, which will have a more uniform appearance. If you don’t have a planer at your disposal and you want the smooth grain to shine though, then power sanders can be used to prep the wood for a new coating.

PLANING/SANDING Depending on the condition of the lumber, planing the cedar boards to a common thickness prior to assembly might not be required. A DIY homeowner can take the time to carefully hand-select boards that won’t require planning,

CUT BOARDS TO LENGTH Next step in shutter construction is to cut the vertical boards to length. Pro tip: The guys at RS&S cut their vertical boards 1 inch longer than the final shutter measurement. Once the shutters are completely assembled, the carpenters use a saw guide on that extra inch to make

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SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS a final cut along the top and bottom edge, ensuring the board ends are in perfect alignment. ROUTING A popular option for cedar shutters is to apply detail to the board edges using a router. The most common request is to cut a bevel along the inner edge of the vertical boards. When the beveled edges are assembled, they form V-grooves between the boards for more visible differentiation. Customers may also want a similar detail applied to the batten edges. A variety of router bits can produce differently shaped profiles along the board edges. The most popular edge profiles for shutters are bevel and cove shapes. Note that if you decide to rout the boards, do so prior to cutting slots in the the board edges with a plate joiner. Otherwise, the slots made by the plate joiner (a.k.a. biscuit joiner) can interfere with the guide wheel of the router bit, causing the bit to misalign and disrupting the cut. MARK THE PANELS For each shutter, the long, vertical boards are first assembled into a panel by joining the long edges using glue and biscuits. The first step is to mark the biscuit locations.

Clean the slots of any wood chips or debris.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

You’ll need a flat, sturdy work surface that won’t be ruined by exposure to wood glue. It might be helpful to screw two scrap boards onto your workbench in L-formation to serve as fences along one side and one end of the shutters while you group the shutter boards together. Align the long edges of the panel boards (typically 3 to 5 boards) so their ends are flush. Write numbers or letters on the boards to keep them in sequence. Use a framing square and pencil to draw 90-degree lines square across the panel at each biscuit location. The shutters usually get three to five plate-joining biscuits between each board, depending on the length of the shutter. Mark biscuit lines 3-4 inches from the ends of the shutter panel and space the other biscuit lines evenly between them. Draw circles at each intersection where the lines cross the joint between two shutters. The circles indicate where to make the biscuit cuts using the plate joiner. (Note: Instead of assembling the shutters with plate-joining biscuits, you can use pocket screws as an alternative). CUT THE BISCUIT SLOTS A plate joiner is a power tool that enables you to make extremely strong and accurate joints in wood. The tool works by a plunging a blade to

Insert the plate-joining biscuits to check board alignment.

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precisely cut crescent-shaped slots for the placement of flat wooden dowels or “biscuits” that will bridge between the mating boards. To make shutters, the biscuits are all located along the edges where the boards meet. The RS&S crew uses a DeWalt DW682 biscuit joiner for this operation. Make sure you’ve selected the proper depth setting for your biscuits. (Use 1/2-in. cutting depth for the recommended #20 biscuits). Clamp each board firmly and align the plate joiner’s center registration mark with your layout mark inside the half circle. Bring the blade up to full speed, position the fence squarely against the board edge, and plunge the blade until it bottoms against the stop. Repeat the procedure to cut slots at each biscuit location in all the boards. Pro tip: Use compressed air to clear the slots of any sawdust or wood chips that can interfere with insertion of the biscuits. Return the boards to your workbench for assembly, arranging them according to their numbered or lettered sequence. Insert biscuits into the slots and check the alignment between boards. Make adjustments as necessary.

Apply a quality glue such as Titebond III to the board edges. Fun fact: A joint made with proper application of wood glue is actually stronger than wood.

Make sure to apply glue to the slots, because the biscuits will absorb moisture in the glue and expand to form a tight joint. GLUE AND CLAMP Remove the biscuits from the slots and apply quality wood glue to the edges of the adjoining shutter boards. RS&S recommends using Titebond III adhesive. Use a rubber brush to spread the glue completely over the mating edges, making sure to work glue into the biscuit slots. Replace the biscuits in the slots, assemble

The shutters each require two to three bar clamps to hold the edges together, and a variety of smaller clamps to hold them flat to the work surface while drying.

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SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS

Once the panels are dry, carefully cut them to their final length.

Apply your stain/finish of choice, coating the panels and battens separately.

the joint, and clamp until dry. For a biscuit joint to be most effective, it is important that the biscuits themselves be in contact with the glue. This is because the biscuits absorb moisture in the glue and expand to form a tight joint. You will need several clamps to hold the board edges together across the body of the shutter while the glue dries. Make sure the shutter panel remains in a flat plane. This may require clamping the boards down onto the workbench. Use a plastic scraper to remove excess glue that squeezes out between the joints. Clamp the shutter panels for 24 hours.

panels and mark the cutlines in place. Cut the boards to length on the miter saw. In case of slight discrepancies in shutter size, keep the battens and their corresponding panels together. Don’t forget to cut any excess length off the shutter panels prior to applying the finish.

FINAL CUTS The width of the shutter panels will determine the length of the battens. Enhance your cutting accuracy by skipping the tape measure and instead place the batten boards directly over the

PREFINISH THE SHUTTERS Stain the panels and battens separately before attaching the battens. Finish options abound, but the guys at RS&S prefer to sprayapply General Finishes brand water-based wood stains to their shutters. ATTACH THE BATTENS Once the stain has dried, the battens can be attached to the panel. A simple shop-made spacing jig can help keep the batten placement consistent. Otherwise measure and mark each shutter carefully, apply glue to the backs of the

STRUT YOUR STUFF We’ve covered the basics of construction, and the rest is up to you. Research shutter photos online to get an idea of all the available batten patterns to give your project a style of its own. You’ll also find lots of decorative hardware styles to accentuate the look, including S-shaped hold-back hooks, corner brackets, “hand-forged” nail heads, and hinges of all shapes and sizes. Experiment with detailed cut-outs or arch-shaped tops. Sketch a few designs on paper and play with the look until you get exactly what you want. Whether you make your own shutters or hire a carpenter for the construction, creating a custom design is a great way to put a personal stamp on your home.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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To space the battens consistently on the shutters, make a simple rectangular jig with a stop attached along one end that aligns with the panel ends. Glue is then attached to the rear of the battens, and they’re fastened through the back of the shutters using crown staples. Clamps are often necessary to hold the battens flush with the surface while the glue dries.

Six beautiful sets of matching shutters.

battens, and fasten them in place through the back of the shutter with crown staples or wood screws. Clamps are often necessary to hold the battens flat to the shutter. Note: Once the battens are attached, the glue tends to run down the face of the shutters if they are stored upright before the adhesive dries. For this reason, it’s best to keep the shutters flat overnight. FINAL TOUCHES Once the batten glue has dried, RS&S coats the backs of the shutters with Thompson’s Water Seal. The fronts of the

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SUPER CEDAR SHUTTERS

The completed project after installation. shutters get sprayed with General Finishes Exterior 450 water-based topcoat, which has UV absorbers and built-in mildewcides. You might even consider additional accessories such as decorative hardware, or even black vinyl hinges and shutter dogs, which provide a classical look at a fraction of the price of metal hardware. Say no to shabby shutters and humdrum curb appeal. Follow these tips to make super shutters that are built to look great for years to come. You can follow Rustic Shelves & Shutters online at facebook.com/supershutters.

H Editor’s Note: Thanks to Cary Lott of Birmingham, Al., for help with this article.

To hang the shutters, Randy Stephenson of Cropwell, Al., uses a simple layout jig to make sure the fastener placement is consistent among the shutters and that his concrete screws will embed into brick rather than mortar joints.

HOW’S IT HANGING? You have a number of options when it comes to installing shutters, and methods vary based on home construction. Do you mind visible fasteners, or would you prefer to hide them? Are you nailing into wood, Hardiboard, or brick? Fastener type should match the substrate. If you’re nailing through cement-board, metal or wood siding, pre-drill the holes and use wood screws long enough to penetrate solidly through the house sheathing. Shutters on brick, block or concrete walls can be installed with concrete screws long enough to embed at least 1 in. deep into the substrate. You’ll need a hammer-drill and masonry bit to

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

When drilling 1/2” holes for wood plugs, be sure to use a Forstner bit, which will cut clean holes in the finished shutter surface to provide a tidy fit for the stain-matched plugs.

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pre-drill the fastener holes. Drive concrete screws into brick or block rather than into the mortar joints. Masonry walls will require masonry anchors. Rustic Shelves & Shutters recommends using 4 to 6 fasteners per shutter, depending on size, with the first four placed near the corners of each shutter to prevent vibration in the wind. One option is to use color-matched fasteners driven flush with the shutter surface. This method permits easy removal for maintenance. Another option is to slightly countersink the fasteners and cover the heads with color-matched wood putty. Decorative hinges provide a prime location to drive screws (painted to match the hardware) right through the shutter, leaving the heads exposed. You can then pin down the opposite

Make sure the shutters are plumb, level, and aligned with the window. The concrete screws should embed into the brick by at least 1”.

With the fastener locations established, the plug holes serve as a guide to drill pilot holes into the brick with a hammer-drill.

The color-matched wood plugs will tap snugly into the holes to conceal the fasteners and complete the project.

The shutters are anchored with Tapcon concrete screws, and Stephenson prefers the 1/4” versions.

corners using Fine Screws, which have a small trim-head that is easy to conceal. Another option for discerning homeowners is to hang the shutters with countersunk fasteners that are covered with stain-matched wood plugs. Pro tip: If drilling holes in the shutters for wood plugs, it’s important to use a Forstner bit, which cuts a very clean hole for the plug. Spade bits and even spiral bits tend to splinter or chip the wood around the holes, causing noticeable damage to the finished surface. The clean hole of a Forstner bit will provide a snug, tidy fit for the plug, achieving an attractive finished look.

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SKILL SET

By Carter Swift

THE WAR AGAINST WOOD ROT

If you own a home, you have to maintain it, and fighting exterior wood rot is an ongoing battle for most homeowners. The rot is caused by a type of wood-destroying fungus, which is as damaging as termite infestation and can wreak havoc on everything from siding and trim to windows and doors. If the wood isn’t maintained with paint and caulk or some type of exterior sealant, then rot can take hold and completely decay it. In some cases, you can catch the problem in its early stages and make repairs before a complete replacement is necessary. In other situations, you’ll need to remove the old wood components and replace them using methods to ensure long-term performance. Here’s a look at some repair options.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

SCRAPE, PRIME AND PAINT The easiest way to combat wood rot is to prevent it from happening. The key to preventing rot is to protect the wood from moisture. Lingering moisture in the wood creates an environment conducive to the fungi growth which deteriorates the fibers. When you see paint flaking or peeling on the house, make it a priority to scrape away the old coating and sand the surface if necessary to prep for recoating. The paint works as a layer of armor to protect against water and rot. Seal any open joints with a flexible caulk/sealant, recess any visible fastener heads, and spackle any holes, checks or cracks with a non-shrinking exterior wood filler. Seal any bare wood or repairs with a quality primer/sealer, then

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SKILL SET update the surface with one or two coats of exterior paint. The same principle applies to stained and sealed wood on a deck or fence. You can determine its condition by simply splashing water on your deck. If the wood quickly absorbs the water, and the surface darkens, then the wood isn’t waterproof and it’s time for a maintenance coat. If the water beads, sits on the surface, or runs off, then the wood is adequately sealed. Preventive maintenance is the best approach because deterioration of neglected outdoor wood is inevitable. If you end up having to make a repair, you’ll still have to follow up with all the sealing, priming, and painting that you skipped earlier.

THE EASIEST WAY TO COMBAT WOOD ROT IS TO PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING. FILLER UP Minor surface repairs to painted wood can be made using a variety of paste-like filler products, provided that the rotted wood is first removed from the problem area and the surface is prepped correctly. A screwdriver or chisel can make a good scraping/gouging tool to remove damaged material and wood rot. Clean away any residual dust and debris with compressed air or a shop vac. Before adding a repair filler or epoxy product, consider applying a “Wood Hardener” to the damaged area. Also known as “Wood Restorer” (depending on brand), these quick-drying liquid products have a special resin that binds and

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

reinforces damaged wood fibers to form a solid base for filling. Water Putty—For minor rot repairs, Durham’s Water Putty is a powder product that is mixed with water on site. The putty is easy to use and clean up, and you get a lot of product for your money. Water putty should be used on vertical applications where water does not pool. In a mixing container, add a little water at a time to the Water Putty powder and stir with a paint stick until you achieve a consistency similar to thick pancake batter. Apply the product in layers up 1/4-in. thick at a time. Allow each application to dry before adding more product. Once the damaged area has been completely filled and dried, sand the area smooth. Make sure to seal the repair with a waterproofing product such as exterior primer and paint. Two-Part Fillers and Epoxies—For larger rot repairs, two-part wood fillers or two-part epoxies, which are available from a variety of manufacturers, require mixing together on-site to initiate the hardening process. They can create a very durable, permanent repair, but they’re also messier and more difficult to use due to the short working time before the product begins to stiffen. However, once dried, the repair can be sanded, shaped, planed, drilled, routed or sawed just like wood. This means the material can be molded into a threedimensional wood replacement such as the broken corner of a window sill. SURGICAL WOOD REPLACEMENT The best solution may be to cut out the damaged section of wood, carefully cut a replacement piece of pressuretreated wood to the exact same shape and dimensions, and glue the new piece into the construction with a high-quality, exterior-grade adhesive. A buzz-cutter (a.k.a. oscillating multitool) equipped with a plunge blade is an excellent device for cutting out the

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THE WAR AGAINST WOOD ROT

problem. Sharp wood chisels can also be useful in skilled hands. Be sure to remove all loose chips, dust and debris from the damaged area. After fabricating a replacement piece from treated wood, you should thoroughly coat all sides of the new piece—plus the damaged area—with exterior primer/sealer before fastening in place. The sealer will add an extra measure of moisture protection. Fasten the replacement into the void with countersunk nails or screws combined with an exterior-grade wood glue or construction adhesive. Fill the seams with a paintable, exterior caulk/sealant, and tool the joints smooth. Apply primer and a matching coat of paint to complete the repair.

PVC An alternative repair method is to replace the rotted material with PVC, which is even more durable than treated wood. Commonly stocked in 3/4-in. thickness and a variety of standard widths, solid PVC boards won’t check, swell or rot, no matter how wet it gets. However, PVC trim is more expensive than treated wood, is limited to a few simple profiles, and can be difficult to find in some areas. Note that stock PVC should not be used if the repair will be painted a dark color and exposed to the sun. When the dark color tone absorbs heat from the sunlight, the high temperature can warp and deform the PVC material, which should only be used for light-color applications or shielded from sunlight. H

6 TIPS FOR REPLACING ROTTED EXTERIOR TRIM

Window trim, door casing, handrails and fascia… These are a few common candidates for wood rot around most people’s homes. Here’s a little insight on how to replace rotted boards.

1. Before prying off the rotted boards, cut through the caulk joint with a sharp utility knife to separate the materials and avoid damage to paint or siding. 2. Scrape away old caulk and paint to provide a clean surface where new adhesives can bond.

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SKILL SET 3. When replacing the trim, use treated wood components and make sure to seal all sides and end grain of the replacement boards with exterior-grade primer. Alternatively, you can replace the rotted wood with PVC trim (must be painted a light color). Urethane moldings may be an option for more elaborate decor.

4 6. Caulk all gaps and seams with a quality elastomeric sealant. I like the Duramaster sealant because it’s very flexible, paintable and cleans up with water. Finish up with a topcoat of exterior paint. WORKING WITH PVC TRIM

4. When cutting the boards to size, avoid cutting through any knots in the wood. If you do, the knot will most likely dislodge from the board and leave a big ugly hole right on the edge. Avoid this problem by moving the cutline a few inches further up the board. You can trim those extra inches off the opposite end to get the board length you need. 5. Trim-head screws have a small head that is easy conceal with filler, which is ideal when making repairs.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

I planned to spruce up this roof overhang with a little caulk and paint. Plans changed when I found the extent of the rotted fascia (which had consisted of two separate boards with a gutter hiding the linear joint). This

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THE WAR AGAINST WOOD ROT

required complete removal of the fascia boards. To replace them, I ripped and edgejoined some 1x6 PVC stock to make a single 1x9 replacement board that wouldn’t rot. I then installed the new fascia along with a replacement gutter. Plus, I repaired the adjacent house siding with Durham’s

Water Putty. Fascia damage is common on homes, so check its condition on your own home every once in a while.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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SKILL SET Stock boards of PVC can also be cut to shape and used for surgical trim replacements in common rot-prone areas, such as exterior door casing. Polyurethane glue works well to adhere a PVC replacement piece into the cavity. Countersink the fastener heads

and conceal them with non-shrinking exterior filler then sand smooth. Seal all seams with a paintable, flexible caulk, then prime and paint the repair. WORKING WITH REPAIR FILLERS For minor vertical repairs, water putty is an inexpensive option that is easy to use and clean up. Once the putty dries, it is easy to

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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sand smooth. However, the repair must be thoroughly sealed, primed and painted to protect it from water. For more severe surface damage, Bondo filler is an option to repair a rotted wood cavity. Mix the two-part formula according to the instructions and work quickly to fill the void before the product hardens. Tool the

repair as smooth as possible. Be prepared to sand the surface smooth with the surrounding construction.

TIPS FOR FASCIA REPLACEMENT Replacing a rotted fascia board is a common headache for homeowners. Here are a few tips to make the job easier.

Unless you plan to reconstruct the soffit, it’s best to replace the fascia board with one of identical size and dimensions, otherwise the

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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fit will be off. However, be sure to select very straight pressure-treated boards with no bend or warp, or else you’ll have trouble fastening it in place. Purchase long boards to reduce or eliminate any joints in the fascia.

Coat all sides, end grain, and also the router groove with a quality exteriorgrade primer/sealer. Follow up with two coats of paint to encase the boards in protection.

Before hanging the fascia, mark the fastener locations with tape for quick identification. Depending on the house design, some fascias have a groove in the rear to fit against the soffit. If that’s the case, you’ll need to reproduce the groove to the same measurements using a router.

Joints in the fascia boards should be cut at a 45-degree scarf joint located over solid framing. The faces of the miter should be coated with a quality exterior wood glue,

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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SKILL SET

and the boards should both be screwed securely to the framing. We recommend using three 3-in. exterior screws at each fastener location. Countersink the heads and conceal with filler, then sand and paint.

Apply a drip edge to divert water away from the house, and if attaching a gutter, make sure the drip edge folds down inside the gutter.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue

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Home Improvement and Repairs Late Spring 2022

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