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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS
U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95
A PLAY SET FOR YOUR KIDS
ISSUE #18 JULY/AUGUST 2022
HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com
INSIDE GUTTERS: SEAMLESS VS. SECTIONAL MODIFY CABINETS TO CREATE A KITCHEN ISLAND INNOVATIVE FASTENERS GET FASTER, STRONGER AND BETTER DIY PEST CONTROL TIPS FOR SUMMER
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS
PLAY SETS BUILT FROM KITS CAN CUT YOUR WORK IN HALF
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • COST OF LIVING HOLDING HOMEOWNERS BACK FROM CRITICAL MAINTENANCE • REAL AMERICAN HARDWOOD COALITION LAUNCHES WEBSITE • CONSTRUCTION COMPANIES CONSIDER CHANGES TO PRICING • PEST CONTROL TIPS FOR SUMMER • ASK MATT TOOL TECH INNOVATIVE FASTENERS GET FASTER, STRONGER AND BETTER CREATE A KITCHEN ISLAND MODIFY CABINETS TO MAKE THE IDEAL ISLAND GUTTER TALK SEAMLESS VS. SECTIONAL
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SKILL LEVEL
SKILL LEVEL
1 2 EASY
04
MODERATE
KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO
Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Spring Issue
SKILL LEVEL
SKILL LEVEL
HARD
PRO
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER
If there is one thing I can’t stand, it is dishonest people who take advantage of others. Unfortunately, there are a lot of them out there. According to a new study from Porch.com, home-improvement scam reports more than doubled each year from 2018-2020, reaching 30,337 fraud reports in 2020—by far the largest number on record. Home-improvement scams during the first two years of the COVID-19 pandemic (2020-21) totaled more than $82 million. In 2021, the median amount lost to these scams was $1,700, or 3.5 times the amount lost to all other scams ($500). This data comes from fraud reports tallied by the Federal Trade Commission, so if a scam goes unreported, it’s not counted in this total. A scam generally involves an unscrupulous contractor who secures payment for services they never fulfill or for doing shoddy, negligent work that fails to adhere to the contractual agreement. Using Better Business Bureau’s Scam Tracker, Porch.com was able to parse out individual reports filed under “Home Improvement” as of 2015 to see what types of projects
PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com
and contractors were mentioned the most. Many scams are related to roofing, including repairing a roof, installing a new roof, or shade roofing contractors. Since 2015, as many as 15 percent of all home-related scam reports received by the BBB were roof projects. In addition, painting and painter scams were mentioned in 5.6 percent of all reports, while both paving and concrete projects were referenced by roughly 4 percent. These scams are not usually committed by contractors with a shining list of referrals, so it’s a good idea to deal with reputable professionals by asking for personal references and checking for online reviews. If you’re new to a particular area, ask the prospective contractor for a list of their satisfied customers for you to contact and confirm their work ethic. Don’t just ask a contractor if they have insurance, ask to see a copy of it. Keep an eye out for red flags. If the contractor asks for a large down payment before they’ll start doing any work, that’s a red flag. It is typical to collect for materials
ADVISORY BOARD JIM BUTTERS RANDY STEPHENSEN DUSTIN SCHWAIGER RICHARD HAMILTON
or an advance toward securing large-ticket items such as cabinetry or countertops, but not for labor that has yet to be performed. In some states, contractors are prohibited by law to exceed a certain down-payment cap. Whether or not your locality has those regulations, you should expect to fork over a down payment of 10–25 percent of the total project cost. Another red flag is a vague contract. The scope of work and every single detail should be included in your written agreements, including materials, supplies, equipment, subcontractors—everything that goes into your project. This is because any additional work not stipulated in the signed contract will be amended as a “change order,” each of which will add extra cost to the project. Your best move is to do your homework on potential contractors, stick with reputable professionals, and always trust your instincts if your Spidey sense starts tingling.
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com
AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO
Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.
PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC
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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue
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STARTSMART DIY PEST CONTROL TIPS FOR SUMMER In the kitchen— Pests thrive in dirty, damp atmospheres. Keep the kitchen counters, stove-tops, racks and drawers clean. Wipe surfaces regularly with a disinfectant cleaner. Make sure food containers are sealed and no overlooked food particles are left to attract insects. Overripe, rotting produce can also attract pests like house flies. Eliminate standing water—Pests such as mosquitoes breed in stagnant water. Clean the area around your house and make sure the grade of your property and all the drains direct water away from the home. Garbage removal—Ideally, garbage should be disposed of every single day. An accumulation of garbage can lead to cockroach and rodent infestation, which worsens when rotten food particles are present. Keep your outdoor bin located away from the house, if possible. Maintain your foliage—In your garden, fill in low spots where water can accumulate and prune any plants on a regular basis to avoid wild, bushy growths. Cut back any shrub or tree branches that contact the house because they can serve as a bridge for tree-borne pests to access your home. Clean your gutters—Accumulated leaves and organic debris in gutters can give ants and other pests a happy home. Clean the gutters seasonally and consider adding gutter covers if tree fallout is a common problem. Fight an infestation—Familiarize yourself with the many available DIY pest-control kits, which fall into three major categories: Crawling Insects; Flying Insects; Rodent and Wildlife Control. Products include insecticide concentrates, traps, powders, aerosol sprays and more, and instructions for application are usually specific to the type of pest or insect you’re trying to remove.
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> CONSTRUCTION COMPANIES CONSIDER MAJOR CHANGES TO PRICING According to a recent study from Umpqua Bank, U.S. construction companies are employing a number of strategies to become more efficient and position themselves for a rocky economy. Nearly 5 in 10 construction companies surveyed as part of Umpqua's Bank's 2022 Business Barometer, a nationwide study of small and middle market companies, expect conditions to worsen over the next year. Concern over inflation, which ranks as the overall top concern of construction companies, appears to drive a mixed outlook for the industry. More than 8 in 10 expect their prices to increase, with 51% also anticipating a corresponding spike in revenue.
More than 7 in 10 surveyed companies are also having difficulty finding qualified employees, and supply chain disruption continues to pose a significant hurdle. Only half of construction companies surveyed say they've been able to purchase the goods in a timely manner needed to run their businesses. In response to challenges, 78% of construction leaders are likely to make significant changes to their pricing models. In addition, a solid percentage of construction leaders have other strategic moves in mind, including automating more repetitive tasks (63%), making significant changes to products or services (45%), increasing their real estate footprint (41%), and financing expansion of their business (23%). For more insights, visit www.umpquabank.com/business-barometer.
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STARTSMART COST OF LIVING MAY BE HOLDING HOMEOWNERS BACK FROM CRITICAL HOME MAINTENANCE
past year that were caused by severe weather. With growing financial and climate uncertainty, establishing a preventative home care routine for homeowners to tackle smaller issues before they become costly repairs is more important than ever. “Proactive home maintenance shouldn’t be an afterthought” said Rick McCathron, CEO of Hippo. “Instead, it should be met with a sense of confidence and accomplishment in protecting what many Americans consider their most important financial asset.” Read the full report at www.hippo.com.
Hippo, a home-insurance group focused on proactive protection, released its 2022 Homeowner Preparedness Report, surveying of nearly 2,000 U.S. homeowners and renters. With national inflation rates reaching a high of 9.1 percent already this year, homeowners today have been more hesitant than in previous years to complete important home maintenance projects, with more than half of first-time homeowners (51%) putting them off due to inflation and price increases, and just one in five homeowners (20%) setting aside money or creating a budget to pay for home upgrades or maintenance. In addition to heightened financial pressures, nearly a third of homeowners (31%) surveyed say they have experienced unexpected repairs to their home in the
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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue
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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: What’s the best way to clean mold off a wood fence? ANSWER: Bleach does a good job of cleaning off mold and mildew, but the type bleach makes a difference. Chlorine bleach does a fine job removing superficial mold, but it’s not as effective killing mold on porous surfaces such as outdoor wood, because the mold’s enzyme roots grow inside the pores. Chlorine bleach can’t penetrate the porous material due to its ionic structure, so the mold problem will likely return. Chlorine bleach also damages the lignin in the wood, which is what bonds the wood fibers together, and this will make it more prone to aging and splintering along the surface. An alternative is to use oxygen bleach. An ingredient found in laundry detergent, oxygen bleach cleans fabrics without disrupting the color or damaging the material. It can be combined with water, applied to the wood and allowed to soak for 10 or 15 minutes, then it can be scrubbed and rinsed off with a garden hose. Oxygen bleach cleans the wood without damaging the fibers or harming the surrounding vegetation, so there’s no need to use drop cloths for protection. H Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.
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TOOL TECH
INNOVATIVE FASTENERS
COMPLETE YOUR NEXT PROJECT FASTER, STRONGER AND BETTER SURE-DRIVE MANTIS CLIPS When it comes to hidden fasteners in grooved deck boards, Sure-Drive USA offers one of the fastest and easiest solutions to install—the Mantis Clip. By using the Eliminator RCS pneumatic tool with its EZ-Slide attachment, you can install the Mantis Clips using Ballistic Nail Screws up to 75 percent faster
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than conventional methods. (Mantis fasteners can also be installed using standard hand-drive screws.) Made in the USA of high-tensile coated steel, the Mantis Clips come in a choice of four profiles, so you can choose the best fit for your deck board. And unlike other clips on the market, the Mantis is built with a base that promotes airflow to protect the deck structure. Sure Dive USA is so confident the Mantis Clips prevent lateral movement and uplift that the company backs the installation with a 30-year warranty against loose deck boards. Learn more at www.suredrive.com
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TOOL TECH THE U2 CONSTRUCTION SCREW The Construction Screw from U2 Fasteners is a heavy-duty structural fastener packed with standout features. Its design has the finished appearance of a conventional round head and provides an extra-large bearing surface under the head. The Talon Grip nibs beneath the head give it extra holding power. And unlike lag screws that require pilot holes, the U2 Construction Screws have a Tapper Point that consists of the Cork Screw Start and a Blade Cutting Thread for easy piercing and alleviating strain on the material. Made of case-hardened
MAZE NAILS PAINTED NAIL COLORS Maze Nails pre-finished nails can add character and appeal to your building projects. Plus, you’ll save time by eliminating the labor-intensive job of touching up nail heads. Using patented technology, the checkered nail heads and ovencuring enhance the paint adhesion and keep
colors consistent. Maze Nails has the capability to match all paint manufacturers’ colors (see Mazemails.com for the top 100 colors). The company also offers hammer caps to help reduce damage to paint on hand-driven colored nails during application. Learn more at www.mazenails.com.
carbon steel, the screws’ hexavalent chromiumfree (CR6+) coating complies with the strictest standards governing chemical substances. Also available are 316 stainless steel versions. Construction Screws are ideal for timber construction, staircases, deck frames. rafter, trellis framing, ledger boards, joists, planter boxes, post supports, play-set structures, retaining walls and more. For your biggest projects, U2 fasteners offers Construction Screws up to 20 inches long. Learn more at www.u2fasteners.com.
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SNAPTOGGLE The SnapToggle is among the strongest toggle bolts you’ll find and it’s widely available at hardware stores. The anchor is easy to use and rated to hold up to 265 lbs. in 1/2-in. drywall. To install a SnapToggle, first drill a 1/2-in. pilot hole in the drywall. Hold the metal channel flat alongside the plastic straps and slide the channel through the hole. Once inserted, hold the ends of the straps together between your thumb and forefinger and pull toward you until the channel rests behind wall. Ratchet the cap along the straps with your other hand until the flange of the cap is flush with wall. Then, snap off the straps flush with the flange. Use the SnapToggle’s
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INNOVATIVE FASTENERS
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bolt (which makes a metal-to-metal connection with the hidden channel) to hang the item of your choice and tighten the bolt as necessary. Learn more at www.toggler.com.
DECK2WALL SPACERS The deck-ledger connection is notoriously susceptible to rot, which can dangerously affect the stability and support of the deck. Deck2wall Spacers help prevent rot from occurring by separating the ledger from the house structure, providing a path for water and debris to flow harmlessly through the assembly, while promoting circulation and drying. Stronger and more durable than stacked washers, the Deck2Wall Spacers also work as a long-lasting solution for attaching shade structures, posts, stair stringers, landings, built-up beams or mechanical equipment. Made in the USA and available in two sizes, the spacers are injection-molded, fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene. The smaller version, Deck2wall Spacer model SWS, is now approved for installation with SPAX PowerLags for quick and easy installation. Based on testing conducted by SPAX, the 1/2-in. thick x 2-in. diameter SWS spacer is now included in the updated PowerLags deck-ledger fastening table. The approved screws are available in 5/16- and 3/8-in. diameter, and have two different head types to choose from, T-STAR and HEX drive. As structural wood screws become more popular each year for deck ledger installations, so have the SWS spacers. Learn more at www.deck2wallspacer.com.
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TOOL TECH up their line of Stainless Steel fasteners with a warranty to resist rust and corrosion. Look for the new shiny silver pails that identify CAMO's new Stainless Steel line. Learn more at www.camofasteners.com. FASTENMASTER COLLATED CORTEX FOR SYNTHETIC DECKING FastenMaster’s approach to concealed deck fasteners is the Cortex Hidden Fastening System for use with AZEK and Trex brand composite, capstock and PVC deck boards. This system uses plugs to conceal the screw heads. The plugs come on collated strips to
CAMO STAINLESS AND MARINE-GRADE FASTENERS Known for its popular line of hidden fasteners, CAMO introduces new 305 Stainless Steel and 316 Stainless Steel Marine Grade fasteners for fastening deck boards, trim and more. Designed to protect connections against the elements in any environment, CAMO's 316 Marine Grade Stainless Steel fasteners are ideal for use in highly corrosive coastal and agricultural environments. CAMO 305 Stainless Steel fasteners provide excellent corrosion resistance and long-lasting aesthetics for inland exterior projects. Perfect for building wood or composite decks, CAMO's new line of Stainless Steel fasteners includes hand-drive deck, composite, and trim screws. The company also offers 316 Stainless Steel Marine Grade Edge Screws for use with CAMO Marksman Pro tools and collated screws for use with the CAMO Drive stand-up tool. New to the CAMO brand are ring-shank deck nails and joist-hanger nails as well as collated ring-shank framing nails and collated metal hanger nails, all of which are compatible with a wide array of pneumatic nailers. CAMO backs
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eliminate the need to fumble with buckets of loose plugs. Cortex plugs are made from the same material as the deck boards, creating a 100-percent perfect match and clean finish every time. Learn more at www.fastenmaster.com.
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INNOVATIVE FASTENERS
EZ-HANG DOOR BRACKET Alabama homebuilder Dustin Schwaiger introduced the HIR staff to the EZ-Hang Door Bracket, which has become his crew’s go-to method of hanging a door. The E-Z Hang system is a unique seven-bracket system that speeds up installation time and eliminates the need for shims, reducing the need to cut and clean up shim material. It allows someone of virtually any skill level to learn how to hang a door. Furthermore, EZ-Hang allows for installation from the inside/hinge side of the door by one person. This has always been problem with pre-hung door installation. In order to square the jamb with the door, it must be in place. It is also impossible to add wood shims from the opposite side of the door without a second person or opening the door. With the EZ-hang bracket, complete your work from the side of the door you need to be on.
The bracket’s screw holes are designed as key-hole slots to make adjusting the door easier than nailing. Once nails are in place it is often difficult or impossible to adjust without damage, and less nailing in the face of the jamb will mean less repair of nail holes. When the door is hung true to its opening from the start, there is less chance it will need adjustments or call-backs. With this system, door reveal and clearances are much easier to make consistent, so the doors will look and swing better in the opening. Learn more at www.ezhangdoor.com. H
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS By Matt Weber
Building a simple swing-set is a fairly straightforward DIY project, but designing and constructing a large, elaborate play set can be quite a challenge and an expensive, time-consuming chore. An easier solution for the handy homeowner is to assemble the project from a kit, as the HIR staff did with the Endeavor play set from Backyard Discovery.
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Compared to purchasing the individual components of a similar play-set design, the cost of the Backyard Discovery kit might even be less than shopping for the materials yourself—and a heck of a lot easier. All the hardware has also been chosen for you, including heavy-duty metal plate connectors and precisely sized screws and carriage bolts for each phase of assembly. Plus, the all-cedar play set reduces waste and expense because all the components are precut to size, saving you many hours of labor and significant money in lumber. With the small, tight knot structure of cedar, the wood is less likely to develop small cracks from knots. Cedar is also naturally resistant to rot and decay. Plus, the lumber is already pre-stained for a smooth and clear appearance, as well as stamped with the part number to help speed up the building process. And when it comes to assembly, the easy-to-follow instructions are laid out in simple step-by-step format with clearly marked illustrations. By following the clear and concise directions, a single person with a few key power tools can complete assembly over the course of 2-3 days—much more quickly than it would take to build a similar play-set from
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SKILL LEVEL
PLAY SETS BUILT FROM KITS CAN CUT YOUR WORK IN HALF
2 MODERATE
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS
the ground up. (Some pilot-hole drilling may be required.) Here’s a look at the Endeavor project and a few thoughts on our experience assembling the kit.
When selecting a site, you’ll need fairly level ground and enough area to build the play set plus a 6-foot “safe zone” around its perimeter. Arrange all parts and supplies according to the log numbers stamped on each of them (or printed on the bags of fasteners).
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FEATURES OF THE KIT If you’re old enough to assemble the project, then chances are likely that you aren’t hip the newest in-demand amenities of modern play sets. Backyard Discovery has it all figured out, and the Endeavor kit features a climbing wall, rope ladder, and a double-wide rock wall. Two traditional belt swings are accompanied by a large 40-in. full 360-degree spinning web swing. At the top is a roof-covered fort with a 5-foot deck that opens to a 10-ft. wave slide. The play-set meets and exceeds all ASTM standards for safe, reliable construction. SITE PREP Prior to ordering a play set, check the manufacturer’s guidance regarding the footprint of the project. Construction requires a relatively flat site with proper drainage that has enough area to encompass the play-set’s footprint plus
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The kit’s instruction manual contains easyto-follow diagrams and step-by-step guidelines on how to assemble the set.
Critical connections that are subject to a lot of movement and wear are strengthened with metal plates.
a “safe zone” around the base for the kids to play—usually an additional 6 feet of unobstructed room around the perimeter. You’ll need to clear and mow the building site and maybe even level the ground. On our site, the ground had a slight slope toward the front and left-hand side. To accommodate this, we compacted the ground and laid rows of 16-in. square concrete pavers as a foundation beneath the front wall and left-hand side
of the play set. This achieved a level foundation and added extra moisture protection to the wood components, which would be slightly elevated above the soil. ASSEMBLING THE PLAY SET Expect the assembly process to take a few days, so plan according to the weather. The entire kit was shipped to our location in three large boxes. You will need to empty all the contents of each and arrange the building components so the part numbers are clearly visible. A little organization at first will make it much easier and faster to locate the parts identified in the instructional manual. The hardware is similarly organized with all the bags labeled according to size.
An impact driver and this cordless Metabo HPT Impact Wrench (model WR36DE) helped to speed up the assembly process.
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS The kit is assembled in a few large separate sections, so that even a single worker can assemble the set over a couple of days.
Most of the carriage bolts are tightened with T-nuts, which should be hammered flush with the wood surface prior to driving the bolts
Be sure to level the assembly as you go, so it doesn’t get too heavy to move if you need to make an adjustment.
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The large number of parts and hardware might appear daunting at first, but don’t get discouraged. Follow the instructions, and you’ll quickly see progress in your project. Just remember how they say you’re supposed to eat an elephant (one bite at a time). For a project like this, the advantages of building from a kit are plentiful. The time and hassle it saved me could be measured in days, not hours. I didn’t have to source materials from different places or calculate all the different fasteners I’d need. All the materials arrived on site pre-cut and pre-drilled, which is perfect for any DIY’er with limited tools and equipment. Plus, each wood component shows up prefinished from the factory, and that alone might save
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS
If you’re working without an assistant, you’ll need some sawhorses or a sturdy ladder to help hold the large sections upright while you make the connections.
I appreciate such details as notched stair stringers and predrilled pilot holes, knowing how much time and labor it would take me to do that work myself.
enough time and labor to convince some folks that this is the way to go. A few standard power tools, such as an impact driver, will help with assembly. The kit even includes the required screwdriver bits for the many bolts and fasteners. I found that a cordless socket wrench came in handy for some of the larger hex-head bolts and lag screws. A single worker with a strong back can assemble the play set over a couple days (I did). However, without a helper you’ll occasionally need to hold or support the project using a couple of sawhorses and even a sturdy ladder. This will help keep the leg and swing-set assemblies upright while you connect some of the larger frame components. Some of the major frame connections are made with metal plates that strengthen the areas prone to the most torsion and tension. It’s important to level the frame as you progress. Adjustments made to the play set’s ground-level contact points will be easier to address before you’ve built it into a large, heavy mass that is difficult to lift and move.
Much of the assembly is connected using carriage bolts and T-nuts, which is a smart design because the T-nuts remain safely flush with the wood, rather than have a metal projection that can cause potential injury. It’s important to note, however, that whenever the T-nuts are specified, they should first be hammered into the pre-drilled holes before inserting the carriage bolts. Doing so will sink the burrs of the nuts into the wood, which holds them steady and prevents slipping or spinning when driving the bolts. Some simple on-site fastener organization will also make your job easier. I recommend
You’ll be working with a lot of fasteners, and simple equipment such as a magnetic screw bowl can help you keep the site tidy and organized.
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A KIT FOR YOUR KIDS
using a magnetic screw tray for the various phases of the project. Otherwise, cleaning up an accidental spill while you work can be a very frustrating way to stop your progress. Even though the play set includes a roof, no roofing experience is required for assembly. In fact, the roof kit comes as six preassembled panels which can be installed while standing on the deck and fastened to the frame from below. Fast and easy. I was greatly satisfied with the building experience as well as the quality of the product. Genuine cedar, stainless fasteners, metal plate connectors … These are select materials that will stand the test of time. and my three kids now have a blast playing in the backyard every day. H
When faced with repetitive tasks, it saves times to preposition your fasteners then fire through them with your power tool for faster productivity.
Need to install a T-nut but have no clearance to swing hammer? Try using a clamp to sink the nut flush with the wood, then drive in your carriage bolt.
The play set is chock full of features, including a rope-climbing wall, a rockclimbing wall, web swing, wave slide, toy telescope, cow bell and more.
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The roof installs as six modular panels which you can assemble from atop the deck of the play set.
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Tighten all fasteners to strengthen the connections and reduce movement in the frame. If using a high-torque power tool, however, don’t overtighten the carriage bolts to the point that the bolts pull the T-nuts below the wood surface.
Final Step is to bolt on the ground screws and drive them into the ground to prevent any tilting in the playset when the children swing.
The play set shown is the Endeavor model by Backyard Discovery. Find out more about the company’s kit-built offerings at www.backyarddiscovery.com.
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KITCHEN ISLAND By Matt Weber
Darin and Judy Epperson had a vision for their kitchen. Their home in Gulf Shores, Alabama, was to be remodeled with white cabinetry in the shaker style of construction. They also wanted a kitchen island to match but could not find one that offered the style, size, and amenities they envisioned. But that didn’t stop Darin from bringing his vision to life. COMBINING CABINETRY Rather than settle for a stock island that he didn’t love, Darin decided to expand on what was available. Home centers sell cabinet modules in stock sizes and trimmed in the same shaker style as the Epperson’s new cabinets. These modules are available in a variety of configurations; some with full-height doors, others with drawers and ball-bearing glides, and some with large pot-and-pan drawers, enabling all sorts of combinations. This provides a home-owner the opportunity to choose exactly the storage accessories they need to fit their lifestyle and cooking needs.
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MODIFY CABINETS TO MAKE THE IDEAL ISLAND
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SKILL LEVEL
2 MODERATE
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Darin Epperson fastened together four separate cabinet modules to form a single island base.
Blocking made from 2x4 lumber was integrated where necessary to maintain alignment of the cabinet edges.
Darin fastened together three separate cabinet bases plus a wall cabinet (for the tall doors) to form a large rectangular foundation for the kitchen island. “The hardest part of the project was integrating the parts of the cabinet to look like a single unit,” notes Darin. To connect the cases, he used 2x4 blocking where necessary to keep the outer edges of the cabinets aligned. The assembled island base featured a variety of drawers and doors, and— with a little creative carpentry—would even provide a home for a microwave oven.
long enough to bridge two side-by-side chairs, so the surface could double as a dining-room table. It’s important to note that the plywood walls of a cabinet base, typically ½- to ¾-in. thick, don’t have much bearing strength by themselves. Any sort of table extension should be
TABLE EXTENSION The next phase of the project required extending the top of the cabinet base to create a table supported by two 4x4 legs. The table area that topped the cabinet base would serve as a foodprep station. Darin constructed the extension
A 2x4 ledger screwed to the island base supports one end of a table-top extension.
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The table surface is supported by two parallel 2x4 joists. Diagonal blocking strengthens each corner, and three evenly spaced 2x4s bridge the joists to keep the frame square and solid. The opposite end of the extension is built from two 4x4 legs and a 2x4 rim joist. supported by 2x4 blocking securely fastened to the base to provide a nailing surface and help carry the load of the table. To make the connection, Darin fastened horizontal 2x4 blocking flush with the top of the cabinet base. The 2x4 serves as a ledger board to carry two parallel 2x4 joists that support the table top. The ends of the joists terminate against the 4x4 legs where they’re screwed into another horizontal 2x4 that bridges between the posts and joists to maintain squareness of the table. Within the rectangular frame of the table extension, Darin incorporated diagonal blocking to strengthen each corner. He bridged the side joists with three evenly spaced 2x4s to keep the table frame rock-solid and provide support for the quartz slab that was destined to serve as the table top. TRIM DETAIL With the table frame complete, Darin’s next move was to wrap the structure in trim that matched the cabinets. Shaker style trim consists of simple face-frames and flat boards with square edges to accentuate transitions and
provide shadow lines. When properly installed, a shaker-style cabinet package provides a clean, classic look that has been popular for ages. By duplicating the trim sizes and reveal measurements that were built into the cabinets, Darin was able to cover his self-made table frame with a shaker package that matched
Next step is to wrap the frame in matching trim.
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CREATE A KITCHEN ISLAND The shaker style trim of the new kitchen cabinets provided the stylistic model for the matching kitchen island.
can be filled and sanded flush with the wood surface. All joints should be sealed with a quality paintable caulk so the trim can be painted to achieve the seamless appearance and clean look of the shaker style.
perfectly with the surrounding décor of the kitchen. For shaker trim, home centers typically sell pre-primed trim boards in a variety of stock sizes made from both solid wood and mediumdensity fiberboard (MDF). When installing the trim boards, be careful to keep all mating faces completely flush and all joints square to achieve the desired effect. Install the components with glue and finish nails, so the small nail-heads
Shaker style trim uses flat boards and face-frames with square edges to accentuate transitions and provide shadow lines.
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INTEGRATING THE ELECTRICAL The quartz countertop for the Epperson’s countertop was delayed by back-order, but Darin used the wait time to install electrical supply lines in the kitchen island. This provided a handy 120-volt outlet on the kitchen-counter side of the cabinet base. He also removed one of the cabinet drawers and altered its face-frame to house a compact
By adding a power supply and applying some creative carpentry to one of the cabinets, the Eppersons were able to incorporate a microwave oven into the island.
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The island’s quartz table top is stain-resistant, maintenance-free, and won’t absorb moisture from food, which can harbor harmful bacteria. Quartz surfaces are also more durable than granite, so they resist chipping and scratching.
microwave oven, which was installed just beneath the island top. INSTALLATION OF THE ISLAND TOP Installation of large stone slabs is usually left to the professionals due to the specialized equipment required to cut, shape and transport the hard, brittle material. In fact, many experienced remodeling contractors shy away from stone countertops because the weight and rigid-
ity of the material requires extreme care to avoid damaging a slab. If the contractor accidentally breaks a customer’s slab, they’ll have to replace it, and the high cost of the expensive material can kill their profit margin. Pro installers use trucks equipped with special padded racks that isolate and secure the slabs to minimize vibration on the road. Special carts with rubber tires and other types of handling equipment are used to move the slabs around the jobsite.
KITCHEN REMODELING—GAS OR ELECTRIC? Gas appliances have long reigned as the supreme cooking method. Hailed by professionals and home chefs alike, a gas stove or range offers immediately responsive heat control, even heat distribution, and the cooking can continue unaffected by power outages. Research suggests, however, that living with a gas appliance has led to increased risks of asthma and other illnesses due to air pollutants like nitrogen dioxide and methane. And the emissions occur even when the appliance is not active. According to reports, more than three-quarters of emissions happen while the appliance is not in use. Those same pollutants have been deemed harmful to the environment. For that reason, some cities are now banning new gas hookups for appliances to reduce air pollution and emissions to help in “fighting climate change.” A ban on gas appliances has already been instated in New York City, where new buildings under seven stories cannot have gas hookups starting in 2023. The ban on taller buildings will go into effect in 2027. In fact, the State of New York is considering a version of this ban in 2027, as well. The San Francisco Bay Area has already had a similar ban in place for the past year. Although avid chefs tend to prefer the performance of a gas range and oven, electric appliances do offer some attractive advantages to homeowners. Namely, electric appliances are safe, easy to clean, and will make any kitchen renovation easier by eliminating installation of the gas supply. When selecting an appliance, you should weigh the advantages and disadvantages of each system. Your love of cooking might trump your concerns about gas-appliance emissions—after all, American homes have been cooking with gas for decades. Keep in mind, however, that as far as the government regulators are concerned, they intend for electric appliances to be the way of the future.
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CREATE A KITCHEN ISLAND The Eppersons selected a quartz table top because the surface is stain-resistant and, unlike granite, maintenance-free. Quartz won’t absorb moisture from raw or leftover food, which can harbor harmful bacteria. Quartz surfaces are also more durable than granite, resist chipping and scratching, and usually offer a stronger product warranty. After the quartz was installed, the top of the Eppersons’ island made a perfect match to their kitchen countertops. One of the main reasons that quartz has grown so popular is due to appearance, which has the look of stone while also allowing homeowners to customize the design. Although granite offers many options in terms of appearance, it’s a natural material, so you may have to search for the right piece to match your color scheme. Quartz is not 100 percent natural. Instead, quartz countertops are manufactured using 95 percent ground natural quartz and 5 percent polymer resins. Since quartz is engineered, the selection process is easier.
Here’s the finished project once the kitchen remodel was complete.
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Furthermore, quartz is easy to maintain. All countertops should be cleaned daily with soap and water, but that’s about it in terms of maintenance for a quartz countertop. Unsealed granite countertops can be stained by certain oils and acids, so it’s best to reseal a granite top once a year. Although quartz is more expensive than granite, its solid surface means there is no need to have your countertops resealed. DINING IN Once completed, the Epperson’s kitchen island integrated beautifully into the overall décor of the home. With its matching hardware and trim, the project made a perfect match to the new shaker-style kitchen cabinets. When the home center doesn’t carry what you want, DIY homeowners can take a cue from Darin’s approach by thinking outside the box—or outside the “big box store”—and putting a new, creative spin on stock items. With a little ingenuity, some know-how, and a clear vision in mind, you can make exactly what you want, even if you can’t purchase it from a store. H
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SKILL LEVEL
GUTTER TALK
3 HARD
By Tom Matthews
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What do professional gutter installers have that the average homeowner doesn’t? Expensive roll-forming machines, for starters. All gutters can be categorized as seamless or sectional. Seamless gutters are installed by professionals using specialized machinery that shapes a roll of sheet metal into a continuous, straight length of gutter to fit the house. The only seams are found at corner miters and downspouts. Seamless gutters are considered more durable because the seams of sectional gutters can weaken years down the road. As outdoor temperatures fluctuate, the constant expansion and contraction of the gutters tends to crack the sealant at the sectional joints. If this happens, the seams have to be re-caulked from the inside with a special gutter sealant. A seamless gutter won’t have the same maintenance issues as one with seams. Furthermore, the seams of sectional gutters are visible, which some homeowners don’t like for aesthetic reasons. For homes in areas prone to leaf accumulation, professional gutter installers offer another advantage: seamless covers to match your seamless gutters. While the gutters protect your home by handling the rain, the covers protect the gutters by guarding them from leaves, pine straw, twigs,
Pro installer Tommy Mooney of The Ultimate Gutter Guard Company in Birmingham, Alabama, uses a gutter machine to form a continuous straight run with no seams.
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and other such organic matter than can clog them and prevent proper drainage. The professional installation method is to measure the roof-line, then feed sheet-metal into the shaping machines to form a rigid K-profile gutter, which is cut to the exact length needed. Next, the installers pre-attach the gutter hangers and end caps, and cut out any downspout openings as needed. The gutter cap is machine-formed in the same manner to the length needed. It was nice to see these guys’ attention to detail. For example, after they cut a valley opening in the gutter cover, the installers fit it with a rain screen spray-painted to match the gutter. By the way, that’s another advantage of professional gutter installation — more available color options than the typical white-painted sectional systems available from most “big box” stores. In the end, the home gets a slick-looking, seamless, covered system that blends well into the roof line. The Gutter Guard allows the gutters to collect roof runoff while preventing leaf buildup. And believe me — for anyone living in a tree-towered neighborhood, gutter covers are a MUST to reduce maintenance. s For any gutter installation job, it helps to assemble the components on the ground and make as many modifications as possible before carrying it to roof level.
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This rain screen will be located below a roof valley.
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SECTIONAL GUTTERS Seamless gutters are very nice, but you’ll also have to pay for professional installation, which is considerably more expensive than the DIY approach. For small installations and budget-friendly repairs, you can pick up lengths of sectional gutter and downspouts at most “big box” stores and assemble them using folding aluminum “seamer” pieces plus gutter sealant to glue the sections. We recommend DIY’ers limit their gutter installation adventures to first-level roof lines.
For multi-level homes, your safest move is to call a pro. Sectional gutters can be particularly helpful on additions such as carports and porch roofs. They can also come in handy for repairs, such as when a bad storm tears a gutter section off your house. In the case of storm damage, you can carefully cut away the damaged gutter section and replace it with a length of sectional gutter joined with an aluminum seamer piece and quality gutter sealant. You can also retrofit your gutters (seamless
s Once assembled, large sections of the gutter can be installed at one time
s The cover is cut to match and installed right on top of the gutter.
The screen gets painted to match the gutter and cover.
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s Gutter covers prevent debris accumulation from clogging the gutters.
or sectional) with a variety of different guttercover products to prevent leaves and debris from building up and causing clogs. However, if you’re not comfortable working at heights or you have a multi-level house, then professional installation is the smart way to go. DIY TIPS FOR SECTIONAL GUTTERS
LADDERS It’s a good idea to attach a ladder stabilizer to the top of your ladder. It prevents the ladder from swaying while you stand on it. The stabilizer also provides a 10-in. standoff
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PLANNING First step is to sketch out your gutter system on paper so you can quantify the various components required. Measure your roof line to determine the number of 10-ft. sections of gutter. Measure your wall height to calculate the number and length of downspouts you’ll need.
Next, account for the number of seamers (which are placed at joints between gutter sections), end caps, inside or outside corner miters, downspout elbows, and end drops which direct water from the gutter to the downspouts (plus flanges for the end drops). All these components will be sold at your gutter-supply store. Gutter sealant is required to seal all the joints. You’ll also need sheet-metal screws to connect the downspout sections, and downspout bands to fasten against the house.
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Sectional gutters are assembled using aluminum seamer pieces to join the sections.
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from the roof line, which makes it easy to work on the fascia and gutter without obstruction. The stabilizer rests on the roof, rather than on the shingles, gutter, or fascia to avoid any accidental damage from that ladder contact. PREASSEMBLY To limit your time working atop the ladder, the safest approach is to assemble as much
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of the gutter system on the ground as possible. But keep the sections small enough to carry up the ladder safely. A sectional gutter requires an “end-drop” at each downspout location. You can carefully cut an end-drop in the bottom of the gutter or attach a sectional end-drop. To join the end-drop to the gutter—or to join any gutter section to another— requires a “seamer.” The seamer is a
s All joints must be sealed with a quality gutter sealant.
s Assemble as much of the gutter on the ground as possible. Paint the gutter prior to hanging it.
s Crimp the connections together with pliers.
s A buzz-cutter (AKA oscillating multitool) with a metal-cutting blade is handy device for cutting end-drops into a gutter when necessary.
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piece of aluminum that matches the gutter in size and shape. First thoroughly apply gutter sealant to the side of the seamer piece that will contact the gutter from below. Butt the gutter sections together, then wrap the seamer around the joint from below. Bend the front of the seamer so it hooks over the front edges of the butted gutters. The back edge of the seamer extends above the rear of the seam, and you fold this metal flap over the edge of the gutter sections. Use pliers to crimp the front and rear lip of the seamer tightly onto the gutter. Cover the seam inside the gutter with a generous bead of sealant. A gutter’s end cap will be shaped and sized to match the gutter. Install it by caulking the edges with gutter sealant and pushing the end of the gutter into the seams of the end cap. It’s also a good idea to install the end-drop flanges into the gutter section while it’s still on the ground. The flanges provide a mounting
s Cut away the flaps from the enddrop hole, apply sealant to the rim of the flange outlet, and insert it into the hole flush with the bottom of the gutter. The downspout connects to the flange outlet.
CUTTING TO SIZE When assembling the gutter and downspouts, you will likely have to cut some of the materials to length. One method is to clamp the gutter sections to a couple of saw horses and cut using a hacksaw. A pair of metal snips can also do the job, but it can be tough to keep the cuts clean and straight. Another option is to use a 12-in. miter saw with a fine-toothed blade turned backwards. The speed of the blade combined with the backwards teeth make a straight, clean cut with very little effort. When cutting gutter material on the miter saw, turn the section upside down so the blade enters the underside of the gutter rather than the top edges. After cutting, be sure to return the blade to its original cutting direction so nobody uses the backward blade when not intended.
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GUTTER TALK that helps gravity pull water to the downspout locations. Note that gutter sections longer than 35 feet should have a downspout at each end. In this case, make two separate chalk lines, pitching the gutter from the center to each downspout. Drive the screws of the hidden hangers into the fascia, being careful not to drive them too tight, which can bend the hangers and distort the gutter’s shape. If you don’t have a solid wood fascia to hold the fasteners, you will need to locate the rafter tails. These 2x framing members should be located every 16 inches behind the fascia. Mark the tails along the chalk line and predrill the fastener holes to prevent splitting the wood with the gutter screws.
s Attach “hidden” gutter hangers every couple of feet.
place for the downspouts, which will be installed after the gutter is in place. These days, gutters are fastened to the house using the hidden hangers with integrated screws. Clip the hangers in place every couple of feet along the length of the section. Make sure to locate a fastener near the end of each section to minimize stress at the joint locations. Before installing a gutter section, give the sealant a few hours to dry and gain some rigidity at the joints.
DOWNSPOUTS Once your gutters are installed, the downspouts are your final piece of the puzzle. Use screws and sealant to fasten a flange outlet inside the hole of each end drop. Duct-tape an elbow section onto each flange outlet. Use a straight edge to follow the path of the elbow to the wall where the second elbow will be located. Tape the second elbow in place on the wall.
INSTALLATION Mark gutter layout on the house fascia with a chalk line. At one corner, mark the highest point of the gutter run 1-1/4 in. below the roof line (or drip edge flashing if installed). Unreel the chalk line and move the gutter to the opposite end of the fascia. At that corner, first level the string, and then drop the downspout end of the gutter about 1 inch per 20 feet and snap the chalk line. This achieves a slope
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Avoid over-tightening the gutter hangers, which will crush the gutter
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making sure the upper downspout sections tuck into the lower sections. Nail or screw the downspouts snugly against the wall using two flexible downspout bands per each 10-foot section. Duct tape will hold the downspout stationary while fastening. Attach a front or side elbow at the bottom of the downspout. Finally, use drain extensions or splash blocks to direct water away from the building foundation. H
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Measure the downspout section needed to install between the two elbows. Each downspout and elbow has one end crimped; the larger end fits over the smaller end to form a slip joint. Account for the overlapping slip joint when measuring—usually about 1 inch of downspout overlapping the elbow at each end. Assemble your downspout at ground level, driving two primed aluminum screws into predrilled holes at each joint. Avoid leaks by
The elbows and downspouts will have one end crimped. The smaller, crimped ends fit into the larger ends of the lower sections to form a slip joint. Account for the overlapping slip joint when measuring.
The drip edge flashing at the roof line should overlap the edge of the gutter to direct water into the trough.
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