IN the Kitchen
by Lorin Gaudin
60
I nside N ew Orl ea n s
Oyster Patties I’M VERY FORTUNATE to have married into a family of excellent cooks with many holiday recipe traditions. While reminiscing about family specialties, the subject of Oyster Patties came up. It took a minute for me to figure out that “patties” are a local term for “vol-au-vent,” a pastry shell that can hold anything from beef burgundy to crab meat dressing, garlicky artichokes and breadcrumbs, even fruits, nuts and honey. My favorite place to get freshly baked pastry shells is from Maurice’s French Pastries in Metairie. However, frozen shells from the grocery store work just fine. My husband’s Aunt Beth is famous for her holiday specialty of oyster patties - pastry shell rounds filled with a simple stew of Louisiana oysters in a light, slightly loose bechamel. It’s delicious and, quite honestly, it reminds me of a fancy oyster version of Chicken a la King. Aunt Beth graciously shared her recipe (a copy was passed on to me from a sister-in-law) that I’ve made as written, but I decided to add my own spin with shallots and fresh herbs, including a splash of Chartreuse (borrowed from a recipe I saw during my research), for a slightly snazzier version.
INGREDIENTS ½ cup butter (1 stick) ½ cup finely-chopped French shallot or yellow onion ½ cup finely-chopped white and lightgreen parts of a leek 2 cloves of garlic, minced 3 Tbsp. Wondra Gravy Flour 1 pint (16 oz) fresh oysters, drained (reserve as much oyster liquor as possible; you want about a cup. If you’re short, add homemade or low-salt seafood stock to make a cup) ¾ cup Half-and-Half (you can use whole milk if you prefer) Splash of Chartreuse (optional) 1 bay leaf 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1/8 cup minced fresh flat-leaf chervil or parsley, whichever is available ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon white pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt (or more, to taste) 24 (small) or 12 large oyster patty shells from Maurice’s Bakery Finely sliced scallion for garnish INSTRUCTIONS In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add shallot (or onion) and garlic, cooking and stirring often, until lightly browned. Add Wondra flour, and cook, whisking constantly, until roux is tan. Whisk in 1 cup of oyster liquor (or oyster liquor and stock combination), cream, bay leaves, sage, Chartreuse and thyme. Bring to a boil over high heat, whisking constantly and scraping the bottom and sides of the skillet. Add oysters, parsley, cayenne and white pepper. Turn off heat and stir until the edges of oysters curl. Remove from heat; remove bay leaves, and season to taste with salt and pepper, to taste. Fill patty shells (you can use the small or the large) with oysters and sauce. Garnish with sliced scallions. Serve warm.
