L'Officiel Malaysia N°51 September 2020

N° 51 September 2020 www.lofficielmalaysia.com

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XIE CHAOYU ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

N° 51 September 2020 www.lofficielmalaysia.com

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XIE CHAOYU ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

N° 51 September 2020

Edito page 18

Contributors page 20

Editor’s Pick page 22

STYLE Anatomy page 26 PHOTOGRAPHY ZENG WU STYLING MONICA MONG MAKEUP VALENTINA LI HAIR MINGHU ZHANG/ HAIR PRO STUDIO MODEL XIE CHAOYU/XING MANAGEMENT EARRINGS IN PINK GOLD CLASH DE CARTIER LATEX BODYSUIT SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

United We Stand

PHOTOGRAPHY ZZZZ STYLING MONICA MONG MAKEUP VALENTINA LI HAIR MINGHU ZHANG/ HAIR PRO STUDIO MODEL XIE CHAOYU/XING MANAGEMENT WATCH IN STEEL PASHA DE CARTIER

page 36

What Fashion Did Last Summer page 42

Power Play page 48

page 42

page 26

page 48

BIJOUX Jewellery Anatomy page 56

CTRL-R page 66

Catalogue page 70 page 66

Watch Anatomy page 80

Sovereign State page 90

The Rebirth Of A Cult page 94

BEAUTY Anatomy page 100

Lip Service page 110 page 94

New Awakening page 114

Scents Of Place page 116

page 110

page 116

MODE Gone Girl page 128

Edge Of Tomorrow page 140

Fatal Attraction page 150

LIVING Hometown Glory page 158

Only The Young

page 128

page 162

LAST WORD Five, six, seven, eight! page 176

page 150

page 158

page 140

N° 51 September 2020

EDITORIAL

SALES & MARKETING

MANAGING EDITOR MONICA MONG

VICE PRESIDENT AILEEN SOH

DEPUTY EDITOR TAN SIOK HOON

SENIOR SALES & MARKETING DIRECTORS CHRISTINA LOH ASHLEY LOH

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR CHONG MENG CHEE SENIOR WRITER NIKITA NAWAWI WRITER JOYCE FAN EDITORIAL ASSISTANT AMELIA TAN DIGITAL DIGITAL DIRECTOR CALVIN CHONG DIGITAL WRITERS NOEL KHOO YAN JOON WING

SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR HELEN TANG FINANCE CHIEF FINANCE OFFICER ELLIN ZHAO MANAGEMENT CEO/PUBLISHER OLIVIER BURLOT EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS GAËL BURLOT JULIAN PEH MOHD KHALID BIN IBRAHIM

CONTRIBUTORS ANDREA ZHANG, CHINTOO, JAYCE LIEW, JIA BAO, JUNO KO, KAZUHIRO NAKA, KEWEITAO, KHIR KHALID, KIE KIYOHARA, KOI, KOICHIRO IWAMOTO, MEI CHOI, MINGHU ZHANG, OLLIVER WANG, RAYMOND PUNG, SHERMAN, SHIYI XU, TONG TONG, VALENTINA LI, VV CHAN, YULE, YUTA KOTANI, ZENG WU, ZENNA AU, ZHIKE

INSTAGRAM: @LOFFICIELMALAYSIA FACEBOOK: WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/LOFFICIELMALAYSIA WEBSITE: WWW.LOFFICIELMALAYSIA.COM EMAIL: INFO@HEART-MEDIA.COM

All rights reserved. The edition in Malaysia of “L’Officiel de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” is published under an exclusive license granted by Les Editions Jalou. All texts reproduced from the French edition of “L’Officiel de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” and included in the Malaysia edition have been translated under the exclusive liability of the company Heart Media Group. “L’Officiel de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” is a registered trademark of Les Editions Jalou. The rights for reproduction, including reproduction on electronic media, of editorial and publication material appearing in the present edition and initially published in the French edition of “L’Officiel de la Couture et la Mode de Paris” are exclusively owned by Les Editions Jalou.

Total or partial reproduction, on any media, in any language, without prior written consent of Les Editions Jalou is strictly forbidden. Les Editions Jalou are a limited liability company, with a share capital of 606,000 Euro, organized and existing under the laws of France, whose registered office is located at 128, quai de Jemmapes 75010 Paris, registered at the trade registry of Paris, under number 331 532 176 and represented

by Marie-José Jalou acting as manager.

L’Officiel Malaysia is published 10 issues a year.

Printed by BHS Book Printing Sdn Bhd Lot 4 Lorong CJ 1/1B, Kawasan Perindustrian Cheras Jaya, 43200 Cheras, Selangor, Malaysia Published by HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor, Mail Box 334, Fahrenheit 88, 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

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N° 51 September 2020

DIRECTION

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ÉDITO

Dear 2020, You have been exceptional.

Leaving us with more time and space to rethink, reflect and renew.

On reflection, this September comes with the celebration of new things: the beginning of a new fashion season cycle, and also a fresh start for L’Officiel Malaysia (we launched our very first L’Officiel Malaysia in September 2015).

I believe we have the ability to be rejuvenated and restored, especially after experiencing challenges or loss. Loss or difficulties are unavoidable in life. In the cycle of life, everything has to end, but it is a positive process because it makes room for new things. We should not quit even when all hope is exhausted, but instead make every attempt to regenerate and rise above the ashes, again and again.

While walking through unprecedented challenges these past few months, I have turned to creativity as an escape amidst the chaos, though the harsh truth is that it seems there is no “normal” to return to, in the near future at least. While this issue has come after a few months of chaos and turmoil, it also signifies the start of a new beginning.

So, I am delighted to present to you a brand-new anniversary issue with a cover story I styled and conducted remotely over multiple screens and video calls to bring to life from my imaginings. Shot in Shanghai, the crew and I spent almost 15 hours to create this “together”.

It wasn’t easy and the pre-discussions and coordination were painful, to say the least, and later I had four screens turned on at the same time during the shoot. One to connect to the photographer’s screen so I can view the images as they were being captured and without delay; another WeChat video call on live-stream throughout the shooting and fitting process; one group chat with the crew so that I can monitor the hair and makeup; and the final one with my styling assistants so they can execute my instructions on styling the model.

I am sorry to say 2020 has not changed my mind in terms of being eager to be physically back on set. As I believe styling is a process that requires an intimate and personal touch, I pray I will soon reunite with my crew on the other side of the globe to work together again, even if it means for more than 15 hours a day. My sincere gratitude to the dedicated crew for their efforts!

Love, Monica Mong (@mongnica) Managing Editor, L’Officiel Malaysia

CONTRIBUTORS ZENG WU Photographer Despite studying Economics previously, Zeng Wu’s career in fashion photography officially took off after collaborating with Modern Weekly China in 2013. Since then, his unlimited creativity, unique styling and artistic touch have made him one of the most popular photographers of his generation in China. Currently based in Shanghai, he considers himself to be a self-trained photographer, taking inspiration from movies and music. One of his many accomplishments include being nominated as one of the 100 creatives at The Fashion Awards 2019.

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VALENTINA LI Makeup Artist Growing up in Guang Xi, Valentina Li has always wanted to be a makeup artist. After graduating from college and beauty school, she underwent training at Make Up For Ever in Paris for a year before throwing herself into projects including lending her expertise on experimental fashion shoots, Sundance award-winning film Dead Pigs and her first Paris Fashion Week in 2016. Since then, her career as a Shanghai-based makeup artist has taken off where her professionalism and fluency in English, French, Mandarin and Cantonese have landed her in a slew of international magazine collaborations and special projects around the world.

MINGHU ZHANG Hair Stylist To Minghu Zhang, the art of hairstyling is similar to creating a sculpture or installation. Additionally, the Shanghai-based hairstylist stresses on the importance of having a well-rounded understanding of fashion photography in order to offer the right hairstyle exuding a modern China aesthetic that is influenced

by Chinese classical architecture, literature and urban colours. He was named one of the eight talents of China’s new generation of tastemakers by WWD in 2019, and is currently a frequent contributor to a number of top fashion publications as well as backstage work during Shanghai and Beijing Fashion Week.

KOICHIRO IWAMOTO Photographer Born in Fukuoka Prefecture, Koichiro Iwamoto was determined to become a photographer since receiving his first camera as a present from his father. After an internship under the guidance of mentor Itaru Hirama, he went on to work at the photography department of the Bunka Publishing Bureau before making his professional debut on i-D Japan. On top of fashion photography, he also serves as a writer for magazines, working from his base in Tokyo. His extraordinary portfolio of work has been featured across famous brands and earned him collaborations with famed fashion names like Comme des Garçons, Jerkcurb and Mirai Moriyama.

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Shaggy-delic shearling, country club clobber and archival prints signal the timely return of chic elegance.

NIKITA

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1. Loewe 2. Fendi 3. Balenciaga 4. Celine 5. Hermès 6. Givenchy 7. Tod’s 8. Dior 9. Maison Margiela 10. Burberry

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Instantly recognisable by its affixed iconic triangle logo in enamelled metal, a Prada bag speaks for itself. This season’s Symbole number in the form of a practical yet super chic shoulder bag is a modern take on the house’s classic collection, interpreted in its signature Saffiano leather. With contrasting sleek gold hardware, the bag’s charming square-ish silhouette, reminiscent of a boxy camera bag, is roomy enough for all your daily essentials: smartphone, cards, keys, lipstick, hand sanitiser or some disinfecting wipes. Sling it over your shoulder or crossbody and you’re out of the house clad in perfect style.

BY TAN SIOK HOON

L’Officiel

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Harking from the ’90s, the Lady Dior is synonymous with the late Princess Diana, captured famously toting it everywhere. For this fall/winter, the house icon pivots back in style—in place of structured leather is soft, lush velvet emblazoned with the signature Cannage and “Christian Dior” embroidery motifs for the bag sheathed in a dark, romantic shade and embellished with pale gold-tone D. I. O. R. charms. Whether carried as a classic top-handle or slung across as a crossbody with the maison’s embroidered strap with antique gold hooks, this one is a sure winner.

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The Jackie bag, created in 1961 and named for Jackie Kennedy, has never gone away as a key Gucci family member. For Fall/Winter 2020, it re-emerges with a new mandate straddling archival codes and contemporary vision—a fresh non-binary revamp and a new name, the Jackie 1961. Sporting demure proportions designed for men and women, it complements diverse styles as disparate as grunge and tailoring. Cloaked in a reductive silhouette with three size options, the hobo bag’s rich leather is underscored by its unique gold piston closure and a detachable shoulder strap.

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The expert craftsmanship behind every Hermès creation extends to the Hermès Della Cavalleria bag, which borrows leitmotifs from the maison’s equestrian roots. The reference to German author Georg Engelhard von Loehneyss’s treatise on the art of riding, Della Cavalleria, reveals the source of inspiration of the bag’s silver hardware. Sitting on the flap, the bridle bit-shaped jewel clasp embraces the smooth curves and contours of the bag’s Tadelakt calfskin, shifting precisely and delicately with every movement. An adjustable strap provides practicality for this satchel-style bag, available also in a miniature version for night.

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Framing the Peekaboo with graphic structure this season is a new accordion shape, juxtaposed with the louche casualness of its deep “smile” to reveal inside pockets, usually in contrasting colours. What’s special for this Fall/Winter 2020 version is that these inner compartments can now be customised with a myriad of options from smooth leather to precious skins, coupled with the personalisation of one’s initials. This is the latest endeavour in the evolution of the Peekaboo created in 2009 and its ongoing refresh over the seasons while leaving its versatility and timelessness very much intact.

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Returning the spotlight to the brand’s iconic intrecciato is Fall 2020’s iteration of the BV Crisscross. Though a contrast from The Pouch’s stark minimalism, the house’s new arm candy nonetheless lands a common denominator in the realm of softness and comfort. It’s the kind of bag that once you get your hands on, you’ll never want to let it go—such a pleasure to hug and hold. Available in both fringed and unfringed versions in a palette of black, brown and porridge, the contorted silhouette of this must-have clutch cantlilevers it to progressive chic territory.

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For the classic Antigona’s 10th anniversary, Givenchy celebrates the occasion with the release of Antigona Soft. Named for the Greek mythical heroine and bearing the same DNA centred on alluring feminine and masculine duality, the younger sibling also features bold zippers and a distinctive pentagonal patch. Beyond that, the siblings are unique entities—for Antigona’s sleek, architectural construction, her younger sister is set apart by suppleness and languor, not unlike a favourite leather coat. This sensual fluidity and subtle nonchalance is expressed in smooth calfskin, giving the Antigona Soft the versatility to go from day bag to weekender.

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Debuting at the brand’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show, the Olympia bag collection encompasses four distinct looks: a shoulder bag in three sizes and a crossbody bag. Its moniker is momentous, echoing that of the show venue, Kensington Olympia’s National Hall, while its part half-moon and part saddle shape with a solo zipper detail on the bag’s front flap inject a youthful energy in both form and function. The bags are available in a plethora of fabrications: monogram jacquard, star-appliquéd suede and smooth structured leather, complemented by a palette of rich saturated hues.

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An indispensable member of the Saint Laurent bag collection, the Carre, which carries the meaning of square in French, flaunts the vintage vibe of structured satchels with a decidedly ’60s and ’70s flair. There is no YSL monogram in sight on the front flap of this shoulder bag, but a discreet Saint Laurent Paris-engraved logo on the gold-toned metal square clip fastening.

Clad in smooth calfskin and suspended from an adjustable shoulder strap, the Carre’s classic yet contemporary design elevates it as the perfect day bag for both work and play, bestowing it with investment-worthy credentials.

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Dipping into his Nineties archives, also correlating to his accessories debut, Mr. Armani offers us a beautiful bag exuding the modern seduction he created that traverses the feminine and masculine, indulgence and strictness. Here is La Prima, re-enacted and reconfigured to guide you into the 2020s. Inspired by the cuts, darts and shape volumes of the tailored jacket—an Armani cornerstone—the latest La Prima is crafted by the best Italian artisans with new techniques. Featuring the characteristic double-bellow sides, this shoulder bag version can be hand-held as well as be worn over the shoulder and crossbody.

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UNITED WE STAND

Meet the new guard of emerging designers—a diverse global cohort who are young, free and fearless, and playing by their own rule book to rewrite contemporary style.

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Bolstered by a Céline stint working under Phoebe Philo, the New York-based designer has come a long way since launching his eponymous label in 2018. Born in Vietnam, Asian American Do has found early success from his forte of razor-sharp tailoring—strong shoulders and clean, form-fitting silhouettes subtly contrasted with soft detailing. His inimitable interpretation of strength and sensuality is one that speaks directly to the modern woman.

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A surreal and sculptural silhouette is the German designer’s signature aesthetic. Her New York-based namesake fashion brand, founded in 2013 with visual artist Paul Jung, presents conceptual fashion with the use of innovative construction, and new materiality and fabrications. Baumeister’s progressive sartorial sense marked by bold and dramatic experimentation makes her designs a natural fit at cool stores such as Dover Street Market among her list of stockists.

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After establishing his label in Shanghai in 2018, the Central Saint Martins (CSM) alumnus’ fashion journey has advanced on a steady trajectory with increasingly strong collections, culminating in international acclaim. Ming Ma’s oeuvre is fresh and eclectic where voluminous forms and flourishes are threaded with striking hues and patterns, courtesy of 3D cutting and draping techniques. In short, an ideal of postmodern femininity uniquely translated with rich cultural and artistic nuances.

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It didn’t take long after graduating from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts for the Hangzhou native to set up her Antwerp-based womenswear label in 2017. Desiring to dress the modern woman with a gentle, romantic side, Shuting goes full experimental mode with asymmetry and high contrast. She taps liberally into lush-coloured silk jacquards, intricate embroidery, bold floral prints and ethnic elements to bring her bright and optimistic designs to life.

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Making waves in menswear is Priya Ahluwalia, whose recycling mission has led to a fourth collection after launching her label in 2018. Her designs are a beautiful cornucopia of embroidery, weaving, knits, patchwork and other techniques used on sustainable materials she sources and salvages tirelessly. Of Punjabi-Nigerian parentage, Ahluwalia injects an intoxicating blend of her cultural influences and London roots to regenerate and repurpose vintage and deadstock apparel into one-of-a-kind garments.

B I A N @biancasaunders

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Among the four British females of colour presenting menswear at London Fashion Week, a path paved by Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, is the Londoner designer of Caribbean descent whose label was launched in 2017. Known for her cutting which captures movement in clothes, Saunders’ refreshing new voice pushes at gender and masculinity notions with a cultural twist. Her constant exploration of construction has created new dialogues by blurring the lines between streetwear and tailored couture.

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T H E @thebemagugu

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Last year’s winner of the prestigious LVMH prize, the designer who hails from Kimberley started out by launching a contemporary womenswear label in 2016. Operating from his Johannesburg base, Magugu keeps his entire production cycle, right from fabrication, within South Africa. Weaving the continent’s storied past and social narratives into sleek and fashion-forward designs, his smart, multifaceted clothing is infused with an elevated sense of quality, novelty and culture, coupled with an app-linked microchip to reveal their entire story.

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Behind CSM graduates Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena’s subversive label is paradoxically folkloric craftsmanship. Chopova and her English partner Lowena anchor their brand on the revival of the rich resources of Chopova’s home country by upcycling trash-destined Bulgarian traditional dress and fabrics as well as deadstock materials. Sewn by seamstresses in Bulgaria, their quirky, theatrical designs—a mash-up of poofy skirts and puffed sleeves, laced together with tartan, retro prints and sportswear—have struck fashion gold for the pair.

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Korean-born, US-raised Rok Hwang runs his label Rokh, launched in 2016, from London.

Studying under Louis Wilson’s CSM Womenswear MA and working for Phoebe Philo’s Céline, Chloé and Louis Vuitton have prepared him for fashion’s big leagues: Paris Fashion Week since 2019. The designer’s secret weapon is his incredible cutting skills, hailed as “perfection.”

Aesthetic-wise, Hwang’s designs may look clean and classic, but reverberate with edginess and youthful energy, and most importantly, offer amazing fit and longevity.

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The Vienna-based womenswear brand he established in 2009 may be a decade old but his London Fashion Week debut only materialised this fall/winter. Ukrainian-born Petrov’s take on directional dressing is a calm and collected repertoire of souped-up suiting and fluid frocks.

Relaxed and generous, his foolproof formula entails understated tailoring, juxtaposed with draping and languid lengths of hems and sleeves. It is easy and polished elegance for the 21st century that eclipses seasons and trends.

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Founded by CSM alum Amy Trinh and Evan Phillips in 2019 after stints at Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Simone Rocha and others between them, the London-based bridal and eveningwear brand’s subversion of a special occasion dress allows it to transcend one-time wear. Drawing inspiration from surrealism and creative couture, their unconventional bridalinspired ready-to-wear is reimagined in black to augment versatility and simultaneously tackle sustainability issues with their use of deadstock fabrics.

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Anaïs Mak presented a 12-piece physical collection during Paris Fashion Week with the help of avatars to model additional looks in a simulated show. The Hong Kong-based designer has carved a niche designing unabashedly feminine looks that do not shy away from making a strong statement, assisted by subplots of dark romance and fetish. Her disruption of generic femininity enlists billowing silhouettes and fabric experimentation, created using both artisanal and industrial techniques.

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WHAT FASHION DID LAST SUMMER

A toast and tribute to the round-up of shows and presentations being rolled out amidst pandemic restrictions in the grand unfolding of an uncharted “phygital” landscape.

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Prada Multiple Views S/S 2021 Menswear by Martine Syms

The question on all our minds these past few months has certainly converged on where the future of fashion is heading as uncertainties ebbed and flowed. With air travel being curtailed, the ideas of both holding and attending physical shows halfway across the world are being put on hold for now. However, that has not stopped the industry’s valiant efforts to bring us on an exciting sojourn, albeit via the digital space.

With its fashion week scheduled in March this year, Shanghai gave the world the first glimpse of what a digital fashion week might entail and offer experientially. The special-edition Tmall Cloud Fashion Week, held from March 24 to 30, drew more than 150 brands and over 10 buyer shops and platforms for the online fashion-cum-e-commerce fest to showcase their fall/ winter collections, together with the live-streaming of “See Now, Buy Now” sales, makeover sessions and panel discussions to Tmall’s 800 million active users.

Shanghai Fashion Week (SHFW) was the first purely digital fashion week of its kind, comprising a compilation of several formats, from the partnership with tech giant Alibaba’s Tmall that took a consumer-centric approach to other more exclusive events organised by fashion design incubator Labelhood to promote young designers with “cloud after parties” thrown in for good measure. In addition, the off-schedule initiative by BOH Project on art and fashion presentation platform XCOMMONS curated a concept-rich virtual runway that utilised AR and CG technology to create an immersive and 360° experience.

Then it was onwards to London Fashion Week’s menswear shows (LFWM) in June—a testament that the fashion wheel may slow down but it never stops. In the city that has spawned a high proportion of the world’s most accomplished designers, courtesy of elite

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Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2020

establishment Central Saint Martins and other top UK design colleges, could we have expected any less than the most creative of presentations from there? The end result was a multidimensional discourse that was experimental and intimate.

With LFWM held at the height of the furore and protests surrounding the Black Lives Matter movement, it became a platform for political and cross-cultural statements which were interwoven within fashion narratives, as seen at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Daniel W. Fletcher. Jeffrey’s digital platform congregated a coterie of creatives of colour, from dancer-choreographer to singer-songwriter, spoken poet and fashion designers, whose performances brought awareness to racial and gender issues.

Fellow London-based designer Bianca Saunders’ zine collaboration involving art, poetry and fashion championed the blurred lines between the masculine-feminine sartorial aesthetic.

Meanwhile, Priya Ahluwalia’s presentation took the form of a digital 3D exhibition shown with her photography book, Jalebi, offering a cultural exploration of her Punjabi-mixed heritage roots as well as championing diversity and the struggle of immigrants. A bold move by Osman Yousefzada’s film, Her Dreams are Bigger, gave a voice to Bangladeshi women garment workers by recording their words as they imagined the white women customers of the clothes they make. Not neglecting the urgency of social responsibility and sustainability, Marques’ Almeida unveiled their upcycled collection, ReM’Ade, which promises to right fashion’s wrongs through transparency and fair pay.

Springing a delightful surprise, Jonathan Anderson gave an absolutely whimsical and memorable “show in a box” for the JW Anderson Spring 2021 menswear and Resort 2021

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JW Epilogue AndersonResort Mens SS21 Gucci 2021

women’s presentations which sparked joy and optimism in dark times. He was filmed on video unboxing and explaining the collections using the contents in the box, replete with lookbook photos, fabric swatches, pressed flowers, paper masks and motivation cards. This concept was repeated for Loewe with a more extravagant box of objects that portrayed the collection and brought it to life, supplemented by a 24-hour festival of Instagram Live series showing craftspeople and other creatives from around the world giving talks, demos and workshops.

As London’s round of menswear shows concluded, next on the fashion calendar was the Paris digital couture week and its menswear presentations in the first half of July. While Chanel’s haute couture undertaking relied solely on a straightforward lookbook photography-based presentation that came with a short video, it didn’t diminish the collection’s rock-andromance allure. Turning to her Italian filmmaker friend, Matteo Garrone, who created a short surrealist movie, Le Mythe Dior, for Dior’s Fall/Winter 2020 haute couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri took a leaf from Théâtre de la Mode, an exhibition of the couture created in doll-like proportions due to the scarcity wreaked by World War II in 1945, to showcase her collection in the same miniature one-third size.

It was Pierpaolo Piccioli’s “phygital” haute couture show for Valentino in the form of a dialogue between Pierpaolo Piccioli and Nick Knight, titled Of Grace and Light, that debuted a hybrid concept straddling the IRL and virtual formats. Staged in a pitch-dark Cinecitta movie set in Rome and attended by a small local audience, the digital spectators’ live-streamed experience of the romantic fantasy was spliced in a video showing Knight’s creative clip portion and the physical runway show-cum-installation of an all-white collection. Despite the limitations of a pandemic, these designers have found one way or another to keep the

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Hermès JW Anderson S/S 2021 Mens Menswear SS21

fashion dream alive, tapping on an artistic, theatrical or cinematic approach, among others.

Taking the spotlight next were the big menswear players of Milan and Paris (MFWM and PFWM), who kept the momentum going with their highly anticipated Spring 2021 collections.

Showing ahead of the PFWM schedule, Hermès live-streamed its presentation in partnership with experimental director Cyril Teste of Collective MxM fame to deliver a minimalist, paredback production that looked unstaged and as if it were shot in a single take.

Prada’s Multiple Views Spring/Summer 2021 virtual showcase raised the bar for its sleek and modern art direction in a strong reminder of Mrs. Prada’s prowess in story-telling and world creation through the evocation of emotions and moods that are graphic yet nuanced. The back-to-basics fashion collection was portrayed in multiple views of five chapters by five global creatives, image-makers and artists: Terence Nance, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre. Each of them created a distinct interpretation of the Prada man and woman by capturing a facet of the collection in the dramatic transformation of purity to radicalism, and simplicity to complexity.

In Kim Jones’ seminal effort for Dior Men, art and fashion convened in a calm and collected collection that was not short on uplifting print and colour. This collaboration with Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo, who specialises in massive portraits of Black individuals, was juxtaposed with Dior’s craftsmanship and told through a lookbook and a dreamy documentary. Virgil Abloh and his team, meanwhile, worked remotely to bring Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection to a real-life dockside presentation in Shanghai that was shown to local guests, while being live-streamed to the rest of the world.

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Loewe S/S 2021 Menswear

Noteworthy were two out-of-the-box projects by one, John Galliano in his filmmaking endeavour for Maison Margiela’s Artisanal collection—a part documentary, part reality show of the entire process behind the making of the collection which made for insightful and stimulating viewing.

On another route, Olivier Rousteing took Balmain’s new collection with archive pieces onto a barge down the Seine to celebrate the brand’s 75th anniversary. He got the luminaries to help, from Beyoncé’s art director, Andrew Makadsi, to choreographer Jean-Charles Jousni and host Yseult, and the show was sent straight to TikTok to be shared with the world.

The season where far-flung destinations are cherry-picked for the biggest cruise season shows had all been cancelled or postponed, from Chanel in Capri to Prada in Japan, Giorgio Armani in Dubai, Max Mara in St. Petersburg, and Versace and Gucci in the US. With the exception of Dior, who went ahead with live-streaming its originally planned production, alongside a physical audience comprising the models, a pocketful of clients and the locals.

Back in May, creative director Alessandro Michele announced that Gucci would be limiting itself to showcasing two coed shows per year, a sharp reduction from its annual calendar of five shows.

He unveiled the men’s and women’s Gucci Epilogue collection on the last day of Milan Digital Fashion Week in lieu of the traditional Resort 2021 show. The finale in a trilogy dedicated to a behind-the-scenes backstage look of the multilayered ritual of putting together a fashion show, from designing, production, staging and viewing, the Epilogue visual narrative was live-streamed over 12 hours. Staged in Rome’s Renaissance-era Palazzo Sacchetti, enveloped by its natural surrounds and sounds, the show was lensed in a raw, gritty format. The collection, modelled by Michele’s team of designers and others, was revealed in a presentation that felt authentic with an expected and welcome dose of Michele-brand idiosyncracy.

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Dior Resort 2021

In London, Burberry also jumped on the bandwagon of getting its design team to model the resort collection outside their London abode. The effect was fresh and appealing, emanating warmth and community. While Chanel retreated to YouTube to broadcast its resort collection, Dior bravely made its way to Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, Puglia, to stage its cruise show, which was made more personal by the fact that Maria Grazia Chiuri’s father hails from the region.

Again, Chiuri shone the spotlight on the region’s crafts and craftspeople featured in the collection in her mission to celebrate these local creative wares traditionally made by women.

Delivering virtual experience after virtual experience, global fashion’s tour de force pushed ahead with novel ways to communicate and deliver in a new normality within a rapidly reconfigured world. The digital space and its communication tools and platforms are definitely here to stay and it’s a matter of time before brands and their followers get acclimatised to the eclectic ways in which fashion can be presented, besides straight up and down a runway or a frolic and dance in front of the camera. Using the myriad of platforms to broadcast fashion through formats such as podcast, documentary, conceptual video, short film, illustration, animation, CGI, performance art and others, we can definitely expect creativity to flourish, along with the power to inspire, empower and attract.

What the last few months has shown is a hopeful glimpse of a fashion world that has the capacity to change—to reset and regenerate—for the better, even in the midst of great challenges, yielding results that breathe new life and give birth to a new moment that is perhaps more kind, inclusive and sustainable without losing all of its magic and wonderment.

Jonathan Anderson captured it succinctly with the printed cards found in his “show in a box”, two of which read, “The future is unwritten,” followed by “The end is the beginning.” Indeed.

POWER

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Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent juxtaposes fetishistic latex with the season’s haute bourgeois trend in his tribute to women’s strength and influence.

PICTURES

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Metal shell earrings, latex lavalliere top.

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Black enamel and white glass pearl earrings in gold-toned metal, glazed leather bat-sleeve jacket, mousseline sleeveless lavalliere blouse.

Fil coupe fabric lavalliere fine blouse 8cm width visible button, lacquered python and metal belt with vintage Saint Laurent monogram, latex leggings.

Latex metal buckle triangle bra, latex pencil skirt, soft leather varnish large corset belt Saint Laurent.

Black patent leather with gold chain ankle strap Kika 110mm slingback pumps, latex leggings.

Black grosgrain grain canvas with gold chain square ornament Saint Sulpice 110mm pumps, latex leggings.

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D I O R J O A I L L E R I E

Very much in step with the times and its couture and ready-to-wear counterparts, Dior Joaillerie has launched a fine jewellery collection that’s inspired by the psychedelic print of tie-dye. The Tie & Dior pink gold necklace, for instance, demonstrates the movement of colours with various diamond cuts and the grey cultured pearl embellishment.

BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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Tiffany & Co. continues to illustrate its vision of effortless luxury with the Tiffany T T1 necklace. The new piece parades the American jeweller’s signature ‘T’ motif with the alphabet seamlessly contoured into an unbroken circle. Crafted in 18k rose gold, the visual decadence of the necklace is further magnified by the masterfully set mixed-cut diamonds.

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Sugar, spice and everything nice. That pretty much sums up Clash de Cartier’s magnetic dualism. Following the line’s triumphant debut, Cartier loads up on the studs, beads and clous carrés for another round of jewellery riot. Its latest bracelet is now expressed in white gold and retains the original blueprint of the Clash that includes the mobile studs.

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Who among us has never picked up a flower and started plucking off its petals to the all too familiar “he loves me, he loves me not” mantra? It’s a ritual of love, a rite of passage. Roberto Coin’s Petals bracelet captures the innocence and absolute purity of it all as it reimagines the corollas in the soft shades of yellow and white gold with elegant diamond trimming.

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Welcoming the arrival of September in the most extravagant fashion, Habib once again elevates its sapphire pieces in honour of the month’s birthstone. This 18k white gold ring stands out from the crowd especially with the fiery blue sapphire centerpiece that conveys romanticism, celestial hope and faith, as well as the opulent diamonds surrounding it.

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Presented at the virtual Masterpiece London a couple of months back, the Moana ring stole the spotlight with its grand design and skilful interplay of materials. The white gold cocktail ring reflects the atypical model of Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery with its oval-cut aquamarine central stone and the ribbons of diamonds wrapped around the black onyx rim.

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The king of the jungle returns to the Gucci menagerie in a roaring, new jewellery line. The Lion Head creations, including these Lionhead earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, highlight the fierce personality of the creature through the silhouette and gem-setting technique. Here, the chrome diopsides are menacingly placed in the clutches of the predator’s jaws.

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No stranger to the monogram game, Louis Vuitton has now reworked the quintessential L and V letters into its fine jewellery range. These iconic initials make up the LV Volt collection as they are woven into architectural objects of desire that transcend borders and gender. The LV Volt Curb Chain earrings, in particular, stun in the yellow gold frame and graphic mould.

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It’s springtime all the time at Chopard as the brand immortalises the fleeting delight of the season with a tribute to the delicate butterfly. Composed in ethical 18k rose gold with a pair of red hearts, arranged like butterfly wings facing a transparent heart with a dancing diamond, the Happy Hearts Wings ring embodies the quiet strength of the creature.

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Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Crystal Haze effect, a technique of layering faceted quartz with a variety of gemstones, Stephen Webster introduces the CH2 cocktail ring. The 18k white gold ring emanates the sense of serenity and integrity with its ocean blue palette that’s conjured by the turquoise with clear quartz crystal haze and baguette diamonds.

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Storied jewellers hit the refresh button as they open their doors to a new generation of jewellery lovers.

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Van Cleef & Arpels

There’s a certain inexplicable allure to owning a piece of luxury jewellery. And while the great Elizabeth Taylor did make a convincing argument on the whole concept of ownership as she once said“you can’t possess radiance, you can only admire it”, we can’t help believing that by procuring delicate pieces of the heritage of maisons such as Van Cleef & Arpels allows one to be a part of something even bigger—a legacy.

Let’s take the Alhambra as an example. It began with the notion of luck that’s held dear by Estelle Arpels’ very own nephew Jacques. So in 1968, by adopting the silhouette of the fourleaf clover, Van Cleef & Arpels came up with its maiden Alhambra creation: a sautoir necklace comprising 20 of the symbolic motifs in creased yellow gold that were delicately fringed with golden beads.

Over the years, the collection has been revisited countless times with the most magnificent gemstones from malachite to lapis lazuli and tiger’s eye. The latest reiteration sees Van

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Bulgari

Cleef & Arpels bringing back the grey mother-of-pearl, first spotted in the early Eighties, to the Alhambra family. The iridescent nacre has now returned to adorn the rose gold Vintage Alhambra pendant.

And as with the other Vintage Alhambra models, the grey mother-of-pearl is meticulously framed by polished pellets. The entire process of crafting each Alhambra motif involves no less than fifteen successive steps, which explains why the jewellery line is among the most sought-after today. Possessing a piece of it is equivalent to signing one’s name onto its illustrious family tree.

The same case can also be made for Bulgari’s B.zero1. Launched in 1999, the collection pays tribute to the brand’s Italian heritage as it’s modelled after the ancient Colosseum. B.zero1 captures the amphitheater’s fluid geometry through a never-before-seen technique that winds the traditional Tubogas into a new type of spiral with a hollow, cylindrical core.

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Chopard

An architectural wonder in its own right, the B.zero1 has been continually preserved and perfected throughout the decades. It even underwent an artistic revival at the hands of sculptor Anish Kapoor and architect Zaha Hadid. The recently unveiled B.zero1 Rock signals a new dawn for the range by tapping into black ceramic and three-dimensional studs, marrying tradition and meta modernity.

This sentiment is similarly echoed at Chopard whose iconic Happy Diamonds collection has set the stage for the effervescent Happy Hearts and Happy Spirit collections, among others.

Debuting as a timepiece in 1976, Happy Diamonds extended its reach into the jewellery world nine years later following Chopard’s creation of a precious clown with a tummy full of moving diamonds and colourful stones.

The collection’s free-spirited nature reverberates through all the offshoot lines particularly the Happy Spirit. Defined by concentric circle motifs around which a dancing diamond is set

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Piaget

whirling, Happy Spirit jewels today have been upgraded not only with 18k ethical gold that mirrors Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury but also with sleeker and lighter designs compared to their predecessors.

Meanwhile, Piaget has opted to venture in the opposite direction as it brings the Possession back to its roots. Paying homage to the original Possession ring that burst onto the scene in 1990, the Swiss jeweller celebrates the collection’s 30th anniversary with three yellow gold open bangles that feature diamond-encrusted turning bands.

The resurrection of the jewellery line, while only beginning five years ago, has brought forth umpteen reimaginations that showcase the many sides of the Possession. Just three years ago, the collection was drenched in bright colours through the use of malachite, turquoise, carnelian, lapis lazuli and onyx, reflecting Piaget’s Sunny Side of Life ethos.

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BARE

Sleek, streamlined and spirited, these cuff bracelets capture minimalism at its maximum.

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1. “Rose des Vents” bracelet in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and diamond, Dior Joaillerie. 2. “Talisman Essence” bangle in yellow gold with diamonds, De Beers.

3. “Serti Carrés Alternés” bracelet in pink gold with diamonds, Repossi. 4. “GG Running” bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds, Gucci. 5. “Hammerhead” bangle in yellow gold with white diamonds, Stephen Webster.

BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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GOOD The never

eternity fades

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AS of time capped

GOLD

and in

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sparkle that golden watch.

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1. “Twenty-4” watch in rose gold with silvery dial, diamonds and self-winding mechanical movement, Patek Philippe. 2. “Constellation” watch in Sedna™ gold with mother-ofpearl dial, diamonds and OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, Omega.

3. Alpine Eagle” watch in ethical rose gold with mother-of-pearl dial, diamonds and selfwinding mechanical movement, Chopard. 4. “Royal Oak” in pink gold with silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, diamonds and self-winding mechanical movement, Audemars Piguet. 5. “Quantième Complet” watch in red gold with mother-of-pearl dial, diamonds and automatic movement, Blancpain.

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PIN The with

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CODE

benevolence these

of

nature is on ultra-feminine

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full

display brooches.

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1. “Dragonfly” brooch with yellow and white diamonds, Graff. 2. “Abeille” brooch in rose gold with diamonds, Chaumet. 3. “Butterfly” clip in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels. 4. “Elsa Peretti Starfish” brooch in platinum with pavé diamonds, Tiffany & Co. 5. “Wolf” brooch in white gold with onyx and paved diamonds, Boucheron.

BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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NEW Classicism openwork

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ORDER ups the ante with a movement and fancy

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golden sheen, complications.

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1. “Pasha de Cartier” watch in pink gold with sapphire cabochon crown, interchangeable QuickSwitch alligator leather straps and manual-winding mechanical tourbillon and skeleton movement, Cartier. 2. “Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Tourbillon Volant Q8B17Y” watch in pink gold case with manual-winding mysterious flying tourbillon movement, Louis Vuitton.

3. “Celestial 6102R Grand Complications” watch in rose gold with black sapphire-crystal disks (sky background and moon phases) and transparent sapphire-crystal disk (sky chart and Milky Way) dial, and self-winding mechanical movement, Patek Philippe.

4. “De Ville Tourbillon” watch in 18k Sedna™ gold and 18k Canopus™ gold with manual-winding central tourbillon Master Chronometer movement, Omega. 5. “Classic Fusion Ferrari GT King Gold” with transparent sapphire crystal dial and self-winding flyback chronograph movement, Hublot.

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DROP-DEAD Luxurious reimagined

to

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GORGEOUS

cascading serve

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earrings royalty.

modern

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1. “Piaget Sunlight” earrings in rose gold with diamonds, Piaget. 2. “Dentelle One Row” earrings in white gold with diamonds, Louis Vuitton. 3. “Mosaic Pompon” drop earrings in white gold with Swarovski Created Emeralds and Swarovski Created Diamonds, Atelier Swarovski. 4. “Helena” chain drop earrings in sterling silver and yellow gold with diamonds, David Yurman. 5. “My Soul” pendant earrings in yellow gold with diamonds, Messika.

BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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RHAPSODY Style and partnership for

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IN

function sync in this sport watch

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BLUE perfect repertoire.

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1. “HydroConquest” watch in stainless steel and ceramic with sunray blue dial and selfwinding mechanical movement, Longines. 2. “Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue” in 316L stainless steel with grained matte domed dial and self-winding mechanical movement fitted with bidirectional rotor system, Tudor. 3. “Luminor Blu Mare” in AISI 316L steel with satiné soleil-decorated blue dial and manual-winding mechanical movement, Panerai.

4. “BR 03-92 Diver Blue Bronze” watch in bronze with blue dial and automatic mechanical movement, Bell & Ross. 5. “Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe” watch in Sedna® gold with blue dial and self-winding mechanical movement, Blancpain.

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The quirky combination of design and materials blow the cobwebs off age-old sautoir necklaces.

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1. “HW Logo” sautoir necklace in rose gold with diamond, Harry Winston. 2. “Princess Flower” necklace in rose gold with mother-of-pearl, black jade and diamonds, Roberto Coin. 3. “Magic Alhambra” long necklace in yellow gold with carnelian and tiger’s eye, Van Cleef & Arpels. 4. “Quatre Classique” long necklace in pink gold with diamonds, Boucheron. 5. “Elsa Peretti Color by the Yard” sprinkle necklace in sterling silver with tsavorites, Tiffany & Co.

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COMPLEX

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NETWORK

Revel in game-changing anointed with the art

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horlogerie innovation.

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1. “RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen” in quartz TPT® and carbon TPT® with manual-winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes and split-seconds chronograph; 30-minute totaliser; and power-reserve, torque and function indicators, Richard Mille. 2. “Excalibur Spider Aventador S” watch in carbon with RD103SQ skeleton calibre inspired by the Lamborghini Aventador S supercar, Roger Dubuis. 3. “HL2.5 Concepts d’Exception” watch in grade 5 titanium with hours, retrograde minutes and powerreserve indicator, and automatic-winding Hautlence HL2.0 in-house calibre, Hautlence.

4. “MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 3D Carbon” watch in 3D carbon fibre and HUB9009.H1.RA manual-winding tourbillon bi-axis skeleton movement, Hublot. 5. “Epic X Titanium” watch in grade 5 titanium with exclusive manually wound skeleton Jacob & Co. JCAM02 calibre of vertically aligned barrel and balance wheel, Jacob & Co.

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DEFYING

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GRAVITY

Fluid, sculptural rings wonderful architecture in

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that reveal the jewellery making.

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1. “Trinity” ring in white, rose and yellow gold, Cartier. 2. “Chaine d’Ancre Punk” ring in rose gold with diamonds, Hermès. 3. “Optima” wrap ring in rose gold with diamonds, Hearts On Fire. 4. “Vertigo” infinity ring in yellow gold with diamonds, Stephen Webster.

5. “Tango” ring in rose gold, Pomellato.

BY NIKITA NAWAWI

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LINEAR An enduring and defined

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FASHION

aesthetic inspired by by clean lines and

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Art Deco design modern elegance.

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1. “Longines DolceVita” watch in stainless steel with silver “flinqué” dial and self- winding mechanical movement, Longines. 2. “Reverso Classic Medium Duetto” in stainless steel with reversible silvered grey front dial and black back dial, and automatic self-winding movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre. 3. “Tank Asymétrique (Extra-large)” watch in yellow gold with champagne dial, sapphire cabochon crown and manual-winding mechanical movement, Cartier. 4. “Boy.Friend (Large)” watch in beige gold with opaline guilloché dial, seconds counter, onyx cabochon crown and manual-winding mechanical movement, Chanel.

5. “Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date and Moon Phases” watch in pink gold with silver opaline dial and self-winding mechanical movement, Girard-Perregaux.

Anatomy

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This grand complication in yellow gold, descending from Patek’s legendary 1941 classic, is the latest enrichment to the Ref. 5270 family. Timeless and elegant, it comes replete with concave bezel, silvery opaline dial and leaf-shaped hands amongst other elements, and what lies beneath is the calibre CH 29-535 PS Q—the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. Traditional in architecture with horizontal clutch, column wheel and manual winder, the movement is a powerhouse, loaded with six patented innovations and an ultra-thin calendar mechanism with 182 parts.

BY TAN SIOK HOON

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Anatomy

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A stunning testament of the brand’s avant-garde DNA and the second creation from its LAB series, the Corum Lab 02 embodies fearless innovation. The timepiece’s design is as revolutionary as its craftsmanship, boasting a new movement backed by two years of R&D. Highly complicated, its calibre CO 300—with 416 skeletonised and finely finished components—has been uniquely hand-assembled with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and the bridge set directly onto the mainplate, alongside a grand date function at 4 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 8 o’clock.

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The watch case and bezel in exclusive Cermet, amalgamating the lightness of titanium and the hardness of diamond, sports a unique grey hue that results from synthesising metallic zirconium matrix with high-performance ceramic inserts. Gracing the new RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is a GMT display, a 24-hour flyback chronograph and an annual calendar. The high-flying watch’s latest high-tech material is teamed up with a Carbon TPT® caseband, a grade 5 titanium case back and a titanium automatic movement for a lightweight proposition that is unparalleled.

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A reminder of nature’s beautiful blue skies and seas, the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue channels summer’s feel-good holiday vibes into one’s midst to soothe cabin fever wreaked by a pandemic. Encased in hardy ceramic, the 45 mm-diameter watch fuses innovation with simplicity. Powered by the MHUB1242 UNICO Manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with column wheel, the watch, fitted with straps in velcro fabric as well as rubber, and sheathed in an ethereal blue-and-white colour combo, lures with an invitation to escape to the island of your dreams.

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One with a truly illustrious legacy, the Calibre 321 has been recreated in its second-generation form, housed in this year’s Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Stainless Steel with an authentic link to space history. The reinvention of the acclaimed movement echoes its original specifications, and entails two years of research and reconstruction that enlisted tomography to digitally scan the inner workings of the actual Omega Speedmaster worn by astronaut Eugene “Gene” Cernan during the Apollo 17 mission in 1972, before being assembled in the brand’s dedicated Calibre 321 workshop.

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Harking back to The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 commissioned by the U.S. Air Force in 1935, this is an elegant and modern reinterpretation of another iconic Longines heritage timepiece. True to the original, the fluted crown at 12 o’clock is the single push piece to activate the watch’s different chronograph functions: power, stop and reset, while the black dial shifted 40° to the right allows for the easy manipulation by pilots back in the day in consideration of their gloved hands and need to handle the control yoke when flying.

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Juxtaposing the natural and precious, the exemplary Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry in white gold with a manual-winding mechanical movement is entirely created

by Cartier’s La Chaux-de-Fonds artisans. The panther’s continual reinvention comes alive with an unexpected encounter where 75 assorted blades of straw in 11 colours are used to portray the feline’s head alongside more than 65 elements in white, yellow and pink gold. For the first time, yellow gold wires are embedded in natural straw elements. Enamel and a rich colour palette enliven the animal’s spots and eyes, in contrast to the miniature-painted spots on the background.

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Anatomy

V A N   C L E E F &   A R P E L S

The Poetry of Time narrative is given a new lease of love by the new masculine Midnight Pont des Amoureux to complement the existing feminine creations. The dial on the 42 mm white gold case showcases lovers in a romantic moonlit encounter, rendered in grisalle enamel. An exclusively developed self-winding mechanical movement fitted with a retrograde module powers the celebration of love where the female character wafts forward progressively to mark the hours, while her beau advances to the middle of the bridge in 60 minutes for a tender reunion at midday and midnight. Their passion culminates in a kiss that is activated by an animation-on-demand module.

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Upping the flamboyance factor, the Defy 21 Pink Edition is the brand’s feminine endeavour featuring the world’s first pink-treated movement. Created in partnership with Pink Ribbon Switzerland, the edgy-looking watch for a good cause boasts Defy 21’s lightning-fast 1/100th of a second chronograph movement. Maximising the brilliance on the rose gold case and bezel are 288 white diamonds of varying sizes and 44 baguette-cut pink sapphire stones, respectively. The open black and golden dial, revealing the movement that traverses from the dial side right through to the star-shaped oscillating rotor on the back, completes the showstopping effect.

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Referencing the Harnais Français Remix silk scarf designed by Hugo Grygkar, the Arceau Harnais Français remix limited edition gives a new creative spin to the timeless allure of the Arceau. Driven by the H1912 mechanical self-winding movement, the timepiece is anchored on a white gold case with 82 diamonds and a porcelain dial featuring a pair of splendidly harnessed horses. Taking beyond a month of craftsmanship, the equestrian motif is handengraved on unglazed bisque Limoges porcelain, before being enamelled to smoothen and shine. The final unique rendering is layered with successive applications of colour that come interspersed with kiln firings.

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SOVEREIGN STATE Boutique indie brands are an emerging voice in fine watchmaking, finding appeal in times where uniqueness, individualism and customisation are increasingly sought after as hallmarks of contemporary luxury.

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TAN

SIOK

HOON

Bonded by passion and mutual respect on both personal and professional levels, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser recently sealed their ten-year alliance with a collaboration.

Friendship, shared values, and the pleasure of building and sharing culminated in two beautiful creations—a series of 15-piece limited editions for each version—that fittingly pay tribute to the 15th anniversary of MB&F and also the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie..

Founded in 2005, MB&F, which stands for Maximilian Büsser & Friends, is the world’s firstever horological concept laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small batches of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals. This partnership is MB&F’s inaugural contribution towards its signature Performance Art endeavour and whose DNA is a seamless blend of both the H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F fine watchmaking maisons.

As for H. Moser & Cie., originally established in 1828 by Heinrich Moser, it was relaunched by family-owned group MELB Holding. A symbol of the contemporary independent watch scene rooted in traditional haute horology, the manufacture, based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, produces components, including regulating organs and balance springs, for its own watches and partners. It has produced 14 in-house calibres to date and makes around 1500 watches annually that embody Heinrich Moser’s entrepreneurial spirit and his visionary strategy and values.

LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series.

Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines,” Busser says. “I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.”

Guiding the minimalism behind the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser model sees MB&F revisiting one of its purest collections, removing its logo and returning to the origins of horology where only the movements were signed. Alongside this is the back-to-basics philosophy of H. Moser &

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L to R: Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. MOSER X MB&F and LM101 MB&F X H. MOSER

Cie. embodied in its Concept watch series with the discreet omission of the floating domed hour and minute subdials, as well as the 45-hour power reserve hands positioned directly on the main dial. As a result, the fumé dials lent by H. Moser & Cie. transform effortlessly into a “blank canvas” to be embellished with sheer liberty.

Available in Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and the famous Funky Blue fume, the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser is highlighted against a refined bezel and topped with a domed sapphire crystal in a steel case—only the third time in the history of MB&F. Most importantly, the striking but redesigned large suspended balance wheel remains in the spotlight that maximises the allure of the fumé dials. This watchmaking quintessence is fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG, a H. Moser & Cie. sister company that also supplies MB&F its balance springs. The matching balance springs pair is a boon to precision and isochronism while reducing friction—the mechanical perfection of which is seen through a curved sapphire crystal case back.

ENDEAVOUR CYLINDRICAL TOURBILLON H. MOSER X MB&F Equally impressive is the collaboration’s reciprocal timepiece where H. Moser & Cie. distils MB&F’s concept of three-dimensional movements, shielded by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock. Additionally, Moser & Cie. also adapts MB&F’s tilted dials for its hour and minute subdials, inclined at 40° that gives the watch owner special privy to the secret of time.

“We have Moserized the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner,” explained Meylan.

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F model in steel case is available in five versions, topped by Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue fumé dials.

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DB28XP by De Bethune

DB28XP BY DE BETHUNE Headed by co-founder Denis Flageollet and CEO Pierre Jacques, De Bethune is an independent Swiss watch manufacturer whose classic watchmaking approach translates to a clean and pure aesthetic. Its exploration of colour gradations by treating steel and titanium with heat defines its mastery in the art of thermal oxidation of metals. Even with just a 30-member team—comprising watchmakers, engineers, developer-designers, micromechanical engineers, polishers and decorators focused on the R&D of technical and aesthetic innovations in the spirit of the great 18th century master watchmakers—De Bethune designs, develops and produces all its timepieces in-house. Since its 2002 founding, a tally of no fewer than 27 calibres, 30 world premieres, numerous patents and 150 one-off pieces sum up its shining achievements, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for the best watch of the year.

Among its famous references is the DB28, whose anniversary is being celebrated this year with the launch of a watch trio: the ultra-thin DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon, each independent yet linked by their history. Unveiled in 2010, the DB28 embodied a futuristic vision of the art of watchmaking, as well as the Maison’s codes: distinctive case shape, crown at 12 o’clock inspired by pocket watches and patented floating lugs.

The DB28XP, the first opus of a family, is the ideal of beauty, elegance and purity, distilling DB28’s essence while balancing design aesthetics and engineering constraints. It is the culmination of Flageollet’s years of research as well as a symbiosis of the case, components, movement and finishing. Crafted from titanium, the timepiece’s architectural fusion of space, time and light is fashioned by a multitude of shapes—hemispherical, concave, spherical—and different finishes that work together to further enhance its refinement. Its Microlight dial is an uber- modern take on the traditional guilloche technique, while its delta-shaped main plate, a De Bethune hallmark, reflects ambient light. Polished satellite-like little spheres are used to indicate time and the watch hands are highlighted by blue titanium inserts.

The titanium hand-wound movement, featuring De Bethune’s balance wheel peeking out from the 6 o’clock opening, maintains its gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. A 6-day power reserve and an exclusive triple shock absorption system elevates the time machine to an even higher plane, alongside its equally stunning siblings DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon.

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Backpage Transparent by Moritz Grossmann

BACKPAGE TRANSPARENT BY MORITZ GROSSMANN Trained as a watchmaker in Munich, Christine Hutter was drawn to historic timepieces, and later discovered the heritage of Dresden-born Moritz Grossmann, a legendary German horologist who was an award-winning technical author, and craftsman of pocket watches, pendulum clocks, and precision measuring instruments, besides founding the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Inspired by his visionary ideas, Hutter acquired the brand rights to set up her own manufacture, Grossmann Uhren GmbH, in 2008 in Glashütte, based on the tenets of Moritz Grossman. Today, Grossmann’s watchmakers aim to preserve traditions without replicating them, instead they celebrate “Schönstes deutsches Handwerk” with timepieces through innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials.

The recent launch of Backpage Transparent brings a twist to the classic sensibility of Grossmann where a sapphire crystal dial offers a full and spectacular display of the Grossman’s watchmaking artistry. It is available in rose and white gold versions limited to eight watches each.

“It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye,” says a quote from the celebrated classic The Little Prince by Saint-Exupéry, which provided the inspiration to mirror the mechanical heart, that is the calibre 107.0 mechanism, on the dial side of by shifting the back of the movement to the front. The impeccable finishing of the mirrored movement is a sight to behold with its sophisticated mechanics and superb craftsmanship of all the movement parts: balance wheel, ratchet wheel, crown wheel and Glashütte stopwork with backlash.

A mirror image of the calibre 100.1, calibre 107.0 bears new design elements, and showcases attractive hand engravings, bevels, and chamfers such as the black Moritz Grossmann lettering. The full minute scale and an hour display from 11 to 5 o’clock and the subsidiary seconds in black contrast beautifully to the rose gold and white gold case, and brown-violet handcrafted hands and screws. Another highlight, an in-house-developed mechanism, is a short pull on the winding crown that switches from winding mechanism to hand setting.

After adjusting the hands, the movement can be restarted by activating the pusher below the winding crown to return the push rod to its rest position. This helps to keep the movement dust-free and prevent the accidental adjustment of hands when the crown is pushed back.

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THE OF

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REBIRTH A CULT

Extraordinary and extroverted, the Pasha de Cartier makes a cool comeback with a raging refresh that’s pitch perfect for a new band of diehard devotees.

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TAN

SIOK

HOON

It’s no secret that the Pasha de Cartier was highly sought after as a unisex watch from its launch in 1985 right up to the last decade when Cartier retired it from production. It was a compelling symbol of the Eighties boom-time ambition and it soon became a staple of the fashion set, alongside traction gained with discerning insiders. For those who have been pining for the return of this Cartier timepiece, good news is in store for its loyalists.

This September, Cartier’s relaunch of the Pasha brings it back into the fold of the maison’s horological family in a renewed interpretation. More sophisticated than ever, the aesthetic of the new Pasha comes replete with an ergonomic appeal and upgraded features. With a new family of Pasha ambassadors in tow, the excitement is certainly building up for this icon’s global launch.

THE PASHA’S INSPIRATION A watch with origins embedded in the archives dating back to 1943, the powerful-looking Pasha is exemplified by its bold lines, grid, Arabic numerals, crown cover and clous carré. Its moniker is said to pay homage to Pasha El Glaoui of Marrakech, who was a fine watchmaking connoisseur and a lifelong customer of Louis Cartier.

Right from its debut three and half decades ago, the Pasha has always stood out from the crowd with its ample proportions and exclusive details such as the unique chained crown.

Embraced by the indulgent and hedonistic era at the time, it quickly found favour especially with women who wanted to express their boldness and liberation alongside fashionable ladies who loved the modern Pasha as a standout accessory and statement-making symbol of their success.

From the Pasha C in 1995 that saw this Cartier timepiece being introduced for the first time in steel to the feminine Pasha 32 in 1998, and from the Pasha 42 with generous dimensions in 2005 to the mini and colourful Miss Pasha in 2009, the Pasha has been continuously reinvented over the years since its creation, but it has always retained its signature style, strength of character and spirit.

THE NEW PASHA What would the reinvention of a cult watch in 2020 look like and who would be the new takers of the revamped Pasha?

Cartier has designated its family of Pasha ambassadors as a community of personalities whose multidisciplinary approach is combined with open-mindedness and strong connections. A new generation of successful talent with ambitions as bold as the Pasha de Cartier is perfectly embodied by these five artists: Oscar award-winning American actor Rami Malek and South African-born singer-songwriter and actor Troye Sivan, alongside American multi-threat singer

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and activist Willow Smith, Emmy-nominated English actress Maisie Williams and Chinese rapper/singer/dancer Jackson Wang. This young and diverse group of celebrities, having in common a creative and game-changing streak, are set apart from their peers by their progressive choices and transformative portfolio of work and performances which have been making waves around the world.

Anointed as a cult watch since its creation, the Pasha de Cartier is a resolutely confident timepiece that extends beyond the borders of classic watchmaking with its distinctive codes and exceptional design. Its graphic signature is defined by a nonconformist nature that seamlessly unites opposites, specifically a square filigree rail-track fitted in the circle of its dial, accentuated by four assertive Arabic numerals. Together with a bracelet featuring four clous de Paris and a highly visible chained crown, these elements complete the Pasha’s ultra-contemporary, oversized appearance.

In staying true to its original model, the new Pasha flaunts a greater sophistication with its myriad of new features. Firstly, a new iteration of its chained crown now comes with a screwdown fluted cover that hides a more precise, ergonomic winding crown beneath that is fitted with a precious blue spinel or sapphire. Secondly, it can be customised with a discreet and secret engraving of the wearer’s initials under the crown cover, only to be revealed when the famous chained crown of the watch is unscrewed.

Thirdly, all renditions of the new Pasha feature an innovative strap that permits interchangeability, courtesy of an adaptation of the Cartier-developed QuickSwitch system— an invisible mechanism that blends into an architecture located under the case that is activated by a single push. Furthermore, the Pasha’s metal bracelet can be adjusted in size to the nearest link by the wearer without a tool and with just a push button on each link using the SmartLink system’s cutting-edge technology that has been registered for a patent.

Finally, the new Pasha is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back that offers a view of its 1847 MC automatic calibre. This in-house movement offers a strong resistance to magnetism with the use of non-magnetic nickel phosphorus components for the movement’s escape mechanism as well as a shield made of a paramagnetic alloy integrated into the case. Finally, the watch’s water resistance of 100 m is also provided by its screw-connection design with minimal thickness.

Striking and edgy, the new Pasha de Cartier collection is a classic yet contemporary expression of our times. Available in two sizes of 41 mm and 35 mm, its repertoire of steel, yellow gold, pink gold and set with diamonds, fine jewellery models and fine watchmaking skeletonised creations is absolutely varied enough to cater to this generation’s diversity of unique individuals.

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No ritual of restored radiance is complete without Chanel’s delicate exfoliating lotion. The transparent gel-like water overflows with white birch water alongside intense vanilla planifolia water to promote skin hydration and serious antioxidant action respectively. A couple of drops to the entire face is all it takes for stimulated cell renewal followed by the delicious sensation of freshness and comfort on wonderfully smooth and refined skin.

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The Granville Rose, the first rose ever created for cosmetics, lends its extraordinary regenerative power to another exceptional addition in the Dior Prestige range. The La Lotion Essence de Rose fuses the power of a fresh essence with the comfort of a milky lotion to saturate the skin in moisture and a natural rosy radiance while wrapping it in a protective veil. Use it in the first step of your beauty ritual so that the skin is fully prepared to receive the benefit of the coming treatment.

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The name says it all. Considered to be an advanced brightening breakthrough for crystalbright skin, DecortĂŠ is here to put an end to all kinds of persistent spots and uneven tones with a cutting-edge brightening serum that rejuvenates ageing lysosomes and crushes melanin production at its source. This is especially thanks to the formulation of whitening Kojic Acid combined with the unique revitalising Bright Concentrate Complex to ultimately unveil highly translucent complexion.

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Unlock the source of profound vitality and radiance when you bath your complexion in the precious droplets of Clé de Peau skin-quenching serum. Now sporting a limited-edition bottle, it holds the brand’s signature ingredient: Skin-Empowering Illuminator, which was specially designed to amplify the skin’s defence and ability to repair. Its luxurious silky texture instantly absorbs into the skin, leaving behind incredible smoothness and subtly elegant rare orchid and rose scent.

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Taking its iconic 2012 gravity-defying serum to greater heights, La Prairie merges two of its most potent and advanced carrier ingredients for the first time in one peerless serum.

The Caviar Premier and Caviar Absolute come together in a fusion of potency that is the reimagined Skin Caviar Liquid Lift to provide an unparalleled lifted appearance and visually restored volume. Fine lines are noticeably reduced and the skin’s elasticity is visibly enhanced after continuous use.

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The power of a serum, richness of an oil and freshness of a lotion—all in one revolutionary oil-in-water face treatment. Guerlain calls upon the power of the queen bee to put together a next-generation multitasker, featuring pure Ouessant Honey and Royal Jelly. When these exclusive super ingredients work together, they offer an advanced solution to combat visible signs of ageing and further treat skin damage caused by exposure to UV rays and external aggressions.

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The secret behind the ingenious formula of Lancôme’s refining and brightening dual essence lies within a simple ingredient duo: a lipid-enriched essence infused with grapeseed oil and clear essence containing sustainably harvested rare French Beech Bud extracts. Top it off with its breakthrough bi-phase formula of merging those two essences and the skin’s natural mechanism of renewal is greatly improved, leading to a more refined, smoother and brighter overall skin tone.

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Sisley’s powerful clarity-activating serum is the first product of its kind to reveal the skin’s natural transparency through three stages. First, it provides an intense brightening action to the overall complexion in the form of Egyptian myrobolan extract. Second, it contains a patented complex of four active ingredients to target dark spots at each period of their development. Finally, it protects the skin from harmful external factors with the help of vitamin E acetate and alpha-bisabolol.

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Sulwhasoo harnesses the healing and beauty properties of ginseng, from roots to leaves, once more to create the ultimate fine-line targeting serum. As you spread the product across the face, delicate Ginsenisphere™ capsules within its soft, creamy-like texture instantly melt away to release precious ginseng seed oil into the skin effectively. Some of its amazing antiageing effects include increased elasticity, more radiant complexion, and visibly reduced fine wrinkles.

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Ever wonder what it’s like waking up every morning with skin that looks like if you had a full night’s rest? Then look no further than the first bi-phase technology night serum from YSL Beauty. Each potent drop is supercharged with an optimal dose of gentle exfoliating glycolic acid and repairing moonlight cactus from Morocco, protecting newborn skin cells overtime.

You will get to experience a gentle skin-renewing efficacy and witness reduced fatigue signs by the first morning.

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From Gucci to Hermès, these fashion maisons are the newcomers to step into the beauty fray by dressing our pouts in this season’s most sought-after accessory: a luxe lipstick.

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Luxury fashion houses dabbling with beauty. Groundbreaking? Not exactly. Chanel and Dior, for one, were early pioneers of “the perfume strategy” after debuting the widely acclaimed Chanel No. 5 and Parfums Christian Dior back in 1921 and 1947 respectively. Already considered to be way ahead of their time then, these two fashion-and-beauty juggernauts would soon diversify beyond designer perfumes and into scientific skincare and colour cosmetics which have celebrated great success through the decades.

From there, it was only a matter of time before the other reputable couture-based houses, such as Givenchy and YSL, as well as Burberry, made equally daring moves to chase progression beyond their core offerings to capitalise on their rich heritage coupled with the popularity of the beauty industry. And why wouldn’t they provide their existing customers with the breadth of products that appeases all their needs and wants, and simultaneously draws in potential customers who aspire to own a piece of the brand but at an accessible price point.

Fast forward to present time, the beauty scene is relishing in significant growth while

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a plethora of fashion powerhouses are constantly pushing for innovation and actively broadening their product categories. In recent months, there has been a surge of high-end fashion labels looking to attain a bigger slice of the lucrative beauty pie. What is even more interesting to note is that they are making their debut in the realm of cosmetics with the one item every fashionista simply cannot go without: a good lipstick.

Which begs another question: why are lipsticks so indispensable? We know that a quick swipe of lipstick instantly transforms a bare face into a one flaunting a polished look. Apart from it being one of the most widely used beauty products, it is also a great base to set the precedence for future exciting releases. What’s more, just like discovering your favourite among a brand’s signature scents, there is no beating the appeal of finding your very own shade of lipstick, with the satisfaction of the unique and distinct click of its lid.

Gucci leads the pack with what various media outlets dubbed as “Comeback Of The Year”.

After halting its makeup line back in 2015, Gucci Beauty shook the beauty scene in May 2019

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when it rolled out a strong collection of lipsticks encompassing a whopping 58 shades backed by an unexpected campaign featuring provoking images of crooked and gapped teeth. Within the first month of its launch, the Italian fashion house went on to sell over one million units in addition to sparking a controversial but encouraging debate on conventional beauty standards.

Shortly after, footwear extraordinaire Jimmy Choo jumped on the lipstick bandwagon with the unveiling of its capsule collection of makeup and perfume. The new Seduction collection comprises nail polishes, fragrances and—you guessed it—ten seductive lipstick colours ranging from classy red, hot pink to more muted hues. Its elegant nude-tinted casing with a dash of gold glitter along with the finishing touches of the JC monogram and iconic python print imprinted on each arguably make the prestige lipstick just as covetable as the house’s best-selling stilettos.

Carolina Herrera’s first foray into makeup too is nothing short of impressive. On top of putting out 36 lipsticks in three different finishes, the Herrera elegance is more attainable than ever

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as the brand takes customisable creations to the next level. We are talking about wearable elements in the form of gilded cases, eye-catching tassels and unique charms—all offering endless possibilities to transform your lipstick into a ready-to-wear accessory or statement jewellery piece. Fundamentally, it is an extremely wearable product crafted with extreme precision to elevate both your lips and outfit at the same time.

This year’s most groundbreaking entry in the world of lipsticks, however, goes to Hermès. For a legacy brand that has never played with makeup, dipping its toes in cosmetics has come as a welcome surprise. Its rouge collection made headlines for all the right reasons, offering a total 24 refillable shades which are strongly influenced by the brand’s incredible archive of leather and silk. A sustainable tricoloured case by Pierre Hardy serving as a collectible item further complements the range while an accompanying lip brush, leather carry case and mirror doubling as a necklace adds to its luxury allure. And that’s not all. One can look forward to the unveiling of new products every six months from September 2020 onwards—hinting at bigger and more exciting things to come in the makeup space.

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Leonor scent with falcon in gold

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Notte scent with falcon in gold and brown diamonds

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Henr y Jacques renews Masterpieces family with sparkling Jeweller y BY

Karavane scent with falcon in gold and citrine

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its the

exclusive absolutely collection.

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What we need now more than any other time is a revival of the spirit and senses—to experience beauty and emotions through what we see, hear, touch, smell and taste. If you have had the privilege of visiting a Henry Jacques boutique, you would be familiar with how your senses had been indulged with not only its catalogue of the most sublime scents, but also how exquisitely designed and crafted the fragrance bottles are, and all enveloped in the soft, warm sanctuary of the luxurious yet understated interiors.

You might have discovered the Masterpieces family that is the quintessence of Henry Jacques.

Each Masterpiece creation is a work of art painted by an incredible and rare perfume icon and its matching inimitable chrysalis. The new variation of the Jewellery collection, a resplendent member of the French haute parfumerie’s Masterpieces capsule, introduces novel couture scents created to heighten the splendid handblown crystal bottles that encase them.

Designed by creative director Christophe Tollemer, the flacons are entwined in a beautiful meshwork of fine gold, punctuated by precious stones. The gold pattern is handcrafted by a masterful Parisian goldsmith and inspired by the classic elegance of a Renaissance painting, specifically the delicate intricacy and mesmerising refinement of a gown rendered.

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Lune scent with falcon in gold and white diamonds

Carrousel scent with falcon in gold and rubellite tourmaline

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Leonor scent with falcon in gold

To fire and fulfil all the dreams and desires of the most ardent haute parfumerie lover are the five flacon iterations of the limited-edition Jewellery collection: two that are decorated by the crisscross of lines along the crystal curves with white or brown diamond accents, alongside three Renaissance versions draped in a rich lacework motif and intensified by either pink rubellite tourmaline or yellow citrine gemstones.

As with all Henry Jacques fragrances concocted in the heart of Provence, the Renaissanceinflected line encompasses premium natural essences extracted from the finest and most precious ingredients that have been gleaned from all over the world. It is the embodiment of nearly half a century of excellence and creativity of Parfums Henry Jacques, imbued by founder Henry Cremona’s precious childhood memories and wanderlust of faraway lands.

Available in two sizes of 60 ml and 150 ml, the Jewellery collection is a treasured extension of the Henry Jacques universe with its brilliant gems, couture perfumes and special designer flacons. An alchemy of colours, textures and ideas that magically unearth emotions and awaken the senses to create an unforgettable story and personal olfactive portrait of your very own.

SCENTS OF PLACE While our travel plans for the year may be temporarily suspended, we have these aromatic concoctions that lead our inner wanderlust by the nose. One whiff and we are instantly whisked off on a virtual tour to our favourite destination abroad, no flight ticket needed. Further igniting our imagination, local illustrator Kexin Tan adds a utopian touch to the olfactory journey, transporting us deeper into an otherworldly realm of escapism.

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BURBERRY HER LONDON “Effortlessly natural, the epitome of the girl attitude—her London Dream brings the beauty and freedom of hazy days in TOP: Lemon, Ginger HEART: Peony, Rose BASE: Musk

(@_WA B IKO)

DREAM Burberry to life London.”

GUCCI “Invoking was the to give

BLOOM AMBROSIA DI FIORI a banquet of an ancient world, ambrosia sustenance of the Greek gods, thought immortality to those who drank it.”

TOP: Jasmine Bud, Rangoon Creeper HEART: Indian Tuberose BASE: Damascena Rose, Velvety Orris

AERIN HIBISCUS PALM “Jour ney to a palm-fringed, tropical island.

H i b i s c u s P a l m c a p t u r e s t h e i s l a n d s c e n t o f b r i l l i a n t s u n s h i n e o n a l u s h b e a c h .”

TOP: Lotus, Hibiscus, Ylang-ylang, Palm Leaf, Ginger HEART: Frangipani, White Flowers BASE: Coconut Milk, Vanilla, Musk

ARMANI PRIVÉ THÉ YULONG “Thé Yulong is a unique olfactor y combination of black tea and green tea extracts that invites you on a sensory journey through the Yulong Mountains, o n e o f t h e m o s t r e n ow n e d C h in e s e l a n d s c a p e s in t h e Yun n a n r e g i o n .”

TOP: Green Mandarin, Lime, Petitgrain Essence HEART: Green and Black Tea Extract, Orange Blossom BASE: Ambrette Absolute

AESOP MARRAKECH INTENSE “…this unor thodox scent celebrates the evocative aromas of spices used in local dishes, intense colours characteristic of its souks and surrounding d e s e r t , a n d t h e w a r m h o s p i t a l i t y i n t e g r a l t o M o r o c c a n t r a d i t i o n s .”

TOP: Bergamot, Clove, Cardamom HEART: Neroli, Jasmine BASE: Sandalwood

LOUIS VUITTON CALIFORNIA DREAM “ Tr a n s p o s i n g a C a l i f o r n i a s u n s e t i n t o a p e r f u m e . P a i r i n g t h e bustle of the cit y with nature that stretches as far as the eye can s e e . A n i n f i n i t e l y b l u e s k y b y d a y t u r n s i r i d e s c e n t a t n i g h t f a l l …”

KEY NOTES: Mandarin, Ambrette, Benzoin

CHANEL “A fresh carefree Gabrielle

LES EAUX PARIS - RIVIE R A and solar fragrance that evokes the charm of the French Riviera, where Chanel built her villa, La Pausa.”

TOP: Orange Peel, Flowers, Citrus HEART: Neroli, Jasmine BASE: Benzoin, Sandalwood

CHRISTIAN DIOR SAKURA “A f r a g r a n c e t h a t c e l e b r a t e s t h e s c e n t o f t h e J a p a n e s e C h e r r y Blossom that paints the landscape a pale, delicate pink with t h e a r r i v a l o f s p r i n g . A b e a u t y t h a t i s b o t h s i m p l e a n d m a j e s t i c .”

TOP: Green Notes HEART: Jasmine, Rose, Japanese Cherry Blossom, Hedione BASE: Mimosa, Violet, White Musk

DIPT YQUE DO SON “Do Son has the delicateness and persistence of a memory from a childhood in Indochina—a memory of flowers in all their sensual delight.”

TOP: African Orange Flower, Rose, Iris HEART: Tuberose, Pink Pepper BASE: Benzoin, Musk

JO MALONE JASMINE “Serene fields of jasmine of all. Pure dew. Coveted gems TOP: Marigold HEART: Jasmine Sambac BASE: Benzoin

SAMBAC & MARIGOLD COLOGNE INTENSE jasmine sambac. The most precious white buds plucked at dawn. Fresh with o f t h e c o l o u r f u l I n d i a n f l owe r m a r ke t .”

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GONE

GIRL

Third time’s the charm. Xie Chaoyu returns once more to lend her compelling part China doll, part ethereal beauty to another enthralling anniversary spread.

PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING

ZENG MONICA

WU MONG

Earrings in pink gold, Clash de Cartier.

Top and dress, Noir by Kei Ninomiya.

Dress, Alexander McQueen.

Earrings in pink gold, Clash de Cartier.

Top and dress, Noir by Kei Ninomiya.

Dress, Noir by Kei Ninomiya.

Ring in white gold, Clash de Cartier. Leather corset, Gucci. Mixed media art piece, Zheng Yuan.

After making her first appearance on our cover back in 2019, it is safe to say that Xie Chaoyu has since become a familiar face in L’Officiel Malaysia as we continue to tap into her unique and versatile looks and commanding aura for our recent June/July 2020 fashion spread and now, to front our momentous 5th anniversary issue. Beyond her cover girl repertoire, the 21-year-old is also no stranger on the catwalks of the fashion world. Born in Yunnan, China, Chaoyu almost instantly rose up the ranks of the international modelling scene when she kickstarted her impressive debut season by strutting the runway for Prada, Givenchy, Fendi and JW Anderson. From then on, she has become an adored muse for famed photographers like Tim Walker, Willy Vanderperre, Karim Sadli and Sølve Sundsbø, while is also being constantly sought after by leading magazine editions across the globe as well as the coolest style bibles such as Dazed and Another Magazine to grace their editorial pages. Even after accomplishing so much in such a short period of time, it appears that there is no slowing down the fashion chameleon, having recently starred in Gucci’s Pre-Fall 2020 campaign and earning a spot on MODEL.com’s curated line-up of the most in-demand newcomers, The Hot List.

T E X T J O Y C E F A N M A K E U P V A L E N T I N A L I HAIR MINGHU ZHANG / HAIR PRO STUDIO MODEL XIE CHAOY U / XING MANAGEMENT P R O D U C E R O L L I V E R W A N G P H OTO G R A P H Y A S S I S TA N T S ANDREA ZHANG & SHIYI XU STYLING A S S I S TA N T S JIA BAO, KOI & ZHIKE MAKEUP A S S I S TA N T S TONG TONG & YULE HAIR A S S I S TA N T S K E W E I TA O & SHERMAN

Earrings in pink gold, Clash de Cartier.

Latex bodysuit, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello.

EDGE OF T O M O R R O W Dark romance and louche sensuality beckon in fall’s strong and sumptuous silhouettes.

PHOTOGRAPHY STYLIST

KOICHIRO Y UTA

IWAMOTO KOTA NI

Dress, Yohji Yamamoto.

Jacket, top, skirt, boots and earrings, Valentino.

Jacket, bra and skirt, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello.

Dress, Versace.

Coat and skirt, Miu Miu.

Dress, Loewe.

Dress and earrings, Versace.

Dress and trousers, Givenchy.

MAKEUP KIE KIYOHARA HAIR KAZUHIRO NAKA MODEL RINA FUKUSHI/IPSILON

Coat, Prada.

FATAL ATTRACTION Anthony Vaccarello refines the modernity of Saint Laurent for Fall/Winter 2020, walking on the tension between discipline and pleasure, and control and abandonment. Imperfect chic is born when elegance meets perversity as the Saint Laurent woman powerfully subverts the conventional codes of bourgeoise Nineties blazers with the dangerous shine of latex.

P H O T O G R A P H Y C H I N T O O STYLING MONICA MONG ALL CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO FALL/WINTER 2020

MAKEUP KHIR KHALID HAIR MEI CHOI MODEL ATIKAH KARIM/3M MODELS STYLING ASSISTANT AMELIA TAN

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L’Officiel

Living

158

H O M E T O W N G L O R Y

Putting the “style” in “lifestyle”, these fashion designers enter the home essentials and accessories scene.

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“I’ve developed a fabric mask for the market but initially I was only making the generic fabric masks for friends and family. But I decided to make a commercial one with a little added design.

I added the cotton tape to be worn around the neck when you are not wearing the mask so that you don’t lose it. The idea came from my own experience of losing my mask all the time.”

—Kit Woo

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“The lifestyle creations are inspired by the pandemic and made for my e-commerce site. The neck hook key chain, the pouch bag—they’re all connected. It’s daily lifestyle for the practical styling of our new-norm fashion. These designs are affordable luxury for one who has never experienced Bernard Chandran before, which they can now.”

—Dato’ Sri Bernard Chandran

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“Over the last couple of months, we have all been forced to stop and pause, and re-evaluate the way we live. With everything that has happened, it’s never been more important to focus on the comfort of your personal space. It was with this in mind that the lifestyle capsule collection came into being. Each piece has been carefully thought out.”

—Khoon Hooi

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“I’ve always been a fan of homeware. One of the brands I have looked up to since I was young is Marimekko, and since designing prints is my ultimate passion, I have always wanted to create a joyful range of printed products. Marrying the passion for prints and homeware, it then became a natural progression for my brand to have a lifestyle range.”

—Cassey Gan

L’Officiel

Living

162

ONLY THE YOUNG

It’s time. who hold

BY

N I K I TA

Meet the future the promise of

N AWAW I

leaders of Malaysia a better tomorrow.

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L’Officiel

Living

JEAN VANEISHA, AMIRA AISYA & ALICIA NICHOLLE, 25 Having established itself as a prevalent lobbyist group that’s partly responsible for bringing the youthquake upon the Malaysian political landscape in the last General Election, Change Led by Young Generation (Challenger) continues to empower young voices and redefine how we see politics. Top leaders Jean Vaneisha, Amira Aisya and Alicia Nicholle give us some insights.

On the founding of Challenger…

JV: Challenger started in 2016 with a mission to champion institutional reforms, educate and encourage young people to use their voice and speak up, and get the then prime minister Datuk Seri Najib Razak and the kleptocratic government out. Now we want to refocus it back to the rakyat.

On taking the next step…

JV: We can’t say it in black and white yet but we’re looking to start a movement that shall see more young people directly participating in national-level politics. We plan to get it off the ground before the next General Election and we hope to be instrumental in providing them that platform.

On Parlimen Digital…

AA: It started with Jean’s rants (when the government used Covid-19 as an excuse not to have Parliament in June). We’re like “why can’t they do it virtually?” And then we engaged with Undi18, Liga Rakyat Demokratik and UNAM Youth, and got to work.

On the challenges…

AN: We tried to be as representational as possible, going for 50 percent women but that didn’t happen (laughs). So, we went with 30 percent minimum. We also made sure there’s Bumiputera representation for Sabah and Sarawak as well as people with disabilities.

On the logistics…

JV: We had support from Microsoft. They set us up with the space at their headquarters and adapted their Teams application just for our use. Initially, we had a separate tech team ready to coordinate the call to 222 “selected members of parliament” via Zoom but having Microsoft backing us really helped.

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L’Officiel

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QYIRA YUSRI, 26 & THARMA PILLAI, 27 Let’s turn back the clock to July 16, 2019. In a historic win for the youth, the parliament passed the Undi18 Bill and amended the federal constitution that would reduce the minimum voting age in Malaysia from 21 to 18 years old, among others. Qyira Yusri and Tharma Pillai share how youth empowerment transcends political lines.

On Undi18…

QY: We started off as a student movement in 2016, under the umbrella of the Malaysian Students’ Global Alliance. Throughout the years, we have organised numerous town halls, forums and public engagements to raise awareness on youth democratic representation and lowering the voting age.

On witnessing the momentous event…

QY: We managed to bring a group of 80 students from all across Malaysia to watch the parliamentary debates. The vote was called at 6PM and as the ballots were being counted, we slowly realised it was unanimous support for the amendment. It was quite overwhelming to see our hard work come to fruition.

On the biggest detractor…

QY: In hindsight, I don’t think there was a specific detractor. I’d say the detractors came from a place where they lacked the exposure and understanding of the bill, and this was rather easily remedied by showcasing the facts and figures of the matter.

On the interest level among youth…

TP: Young Malaysians are definitely paying attention to politics. But they’re losing faith in politicians and political parties. We need to be able to communicate about policies that affect them so that they understand that politics isn’t just about political parties, it’s about creating policies that benefit the average citizen.

On what’s in store for Undi18…

TP: We have just announced Undi Sabah and Undi Sarawak because we want to provide a platform for young East Malaysians to be able to discuss and debate state-centric issues in a rational and mature manner. We’re also continuing our advocacy projects such as MyHutan, UndiSaksama, 111Initiative and Senate18.

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AMIR ABD HADI, 29 Every functioning society needs a non-partisan body taking up the role of the watchdog to monitor its administration. Amir Abd Hadi, for one, observes the practice of detention without trial in Malaysia under the Suara Rakyat Malaysia (SUARAM) banner. The activist also co-founded Liga Rakyat Demokratik to encourage the youth participation in politics.

On the country’s security law…

I’ve been handling lots of cases in the past five years and I find that torture is still happening in detention centres. We even received letters written by the detainees about it. We found that at least 11 to 12 people died in police custody every year with torture being one of the reasons.

On the backlash for his activism…

I was arrested during the “Kita Lawan” rally in 2015. That was my first time (getting arrested).

And then there were policemen showing up at my parents’ door, out of uniform, with guns in plain sight, and started asking questions. This is the kind of intimidation that we had to go through.

On the establishment of Liga Rakyat Demokratik…

We founded the movement in 2015 when Pakatan Rakyat broke up and there were only three years until the next General Election. So, we gathered the student and youth activists for a meeting, and subsequently issued a joint statement calling the opposition to form a new coalition.

On the aftermath of the break-up…

The disbanding of the opposition bloc had also broken up the student movement since most of the student and youth leaders then were bred by political parties. We wanted to reorganise the youth and students and give them the platform to participate in the political process.

That’s why Liga Rakyat Demokratik is there.

On what’s next…

I think we rely too much on politicians and because of that the politicians continue to exploit us. That’s why we’re going to set up our branches and bilik gerakan (operation room) in every state in Malaysia, so that the people have other avenues to channel their problems to.

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MELINDA ANNE SHARLINI, 23 Raised in a family where women are entrusted with the decision-making roles, Melinda Anne Sharlini finds it jarring that the same treatment is not a given out in the real world. The Malaysian Campaign For Equal Citizenship program officer has already started pushing for change as she works to rectify the country’s citizenship laws and policies that have been putting women on the back burner.

On the campaign…

The campaign particularly deals with the laws by which Malaysian women are not given equal rights to pass on citizenship to their children who are born overseas. Women have to go through a different application process from men, which could take years and with only almost 0.01 percent approval rate.

On discussing taboo issues such as abortion rights…

Taking the fact that this is a Muslim-majority country where Sharia plays a major role, it may not be easy to navigate these issues. It will take time to achieve the reform itself but that doesn’t stop us from speaking about it. I don’t believe in drawing lines in constitutional reforms; the conversation has to go on.

On discovering the interest in politics…

I think being a gender advocate and working full-time in a civil society organisation made me interested in politics. Because politics dictates our lives— the person elected to represent us dictates how our rights are practised in the country. So I think it’s very personal as well as political.

On participation in Parlimen Digital…

I’ve worked with parliamentary processes before, when I interned with Maria (Chin Abdullah) and in my work now, but from a distance. I have no first-hand experience when it comes to the parliamentary proceedings. So I just wanted to dip my toes in and see what it’s like.

On being the Klang “parliamentarian”…

It was a bit difficult to gauge exactly what the constituency needs given that most of us weren’t really involved in politics. But from my conversation with Charles (Anthony Santiago), I learned that we do have pockets of urban poverty in Klang with communities that were particularly hit hard during MCO.

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MAKEUP JAYCE LIEW & ZENNA AU USING MAKE UP FOR EVER HAIR VV CHAN & JUNO KO USING SHISEIDO PROFESSIONAL

L’Officiel

Living

SUN CHENG KIDD, 20 Aware of the insensibility of his countrymen when it comes to our political system, Sun Cheng Kidd takes it upon himself to start the discourse with YPolitics. He also recently took part in Parlimen Digital as the Cheras parliamentarian and advocated on job guarantee to bring down the unemployment rate among youth that includes venturing into the green industry.

On the passion for politics…

My parents are quite invested in politics. I was brought to Tan Kok Wai’s 12th General Election campaign when I was eight. I didn’t know what was happening, everyone was just shouting (laughs). I didn’t consider it (going into politics) until after the 14th General Election.

On being the odd one out…

When I was in secondary (school), I spent more time with the teachers than my friends. I remember when the 1Malaysia Development Berhad scandal broke in 2016 and I kept talking about it with the teachers. My peers weren’t interested in politics; no one listened and no one cared about it.

On exposing youngsters to politics…

I don’t think age is the problem. Anyone of any age can be exposed to politics. But the real question is: exposed to what kind of politics? I feel like we should get “good people and the right people” in politics. I have met youngsters who are racists. They inherited the mindset of the boomer politics.

On YPolitics…

It started with an Instagram story. Since many people had reacted positively to my stories, I thought why not create an outlet to properly discuss politics or more specifically, the system.

YPolitics mainly talks about the idea of limited government, popular sovereignty, civil liberty and political participation.

On future plans…

I was actually supposed to fly to the United States this month to further my studies but that will have to wait until January because of Covid-19. I plan to major in Political Science and take up some related courses like public policy as well as international relations.

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L’Officiel Malaysia is the authoritative voice in fashion, arts, beauty, jewellery and lifestyle. Catering to the stylish sophisticate, the cultured and the well-heeled, the monthly publication features sharp reportage and witty commentary on the latest trends in fashion, beauty and lifestyle. From cocktail parties, to exclusive season previews and fashion shows, join our elite guest list and live the L’Officiel Lifestyle.

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L’Officiel

Last Word

176

FIVE, SIX, SEVEN, EIGHT! BY

NIKITA

NAWAWI

Inside Chanel delves deeper into Gabrielle Chanel’s history in the world of arts. This time around, Chapter 29 of the web series explores the designer’s many ventures in the dance scene. Tracing her footsteps that began with the dance lessons she took with avant-garde dancer Caryathis to her involvement in the reprisal of ballet impresario Serge Diaghilev’s The Rite of Spring and more, the episode offers a retrospective on the interconnection between modern dance and the perennial Chanel style.