April 2015

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MARQUESS爵 TOURIST MAGAZINE

Easter’s Special : Fabergé The Most Opulent Easter Egg First London Craft Week : Vacheron Constantin Watchmaking Taste of British Traditional Cuisine@Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The Spiritual Home of Alfred Dunhill : Bourdon House 复活节精选︰帝王馈赠的复活蛋 伦敦工艺周首度登场︰江诗丹顿演示制表艺术 专访米其林星厨︰品尝英式传统佳肴 造访登喜路尊贵服务伦敦邸宅


We perfect this watch by hand.

Even though you will probably never see many of the levers,

each one is endowed with a specific type of finissage and must

wheels, and springs in the movement of the Grand Lange 1

comply with the most stringent artisanal and aesthetic standards.

Moon Phase, Lange’s master watchmakers meticulously refine

This also applies to the lunar disc made of solid gold. It shows the

them by hand. No matter how tiny or hidden a part may be,

earth’s companion amid the stars of the nocturnal sky. A patented


Even the parts that you can’t see.

coating process is responsible for the brilliant colours and the crisp

different sizes are cut out with extremely sharp contours, produc-

texture details. Interference effects – the superposition of light

ing a miniaturised image of the Milky Way. The smallest stars on

waves – absorb all non-blue colour spectra of the incident day-

the lunar disc have a diameter of merely 0.07 millimetres – less than

light. The result is an intensely blue surface on which 382 stars of

the average thickness of a human hair. www.alange-soehne.com

George Pragnell 5 and 6, Wood Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, Tel. 178 92 67 072 · Harrods 87–135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London, Tel. 2 07 73 01 234 · Watches of Switzerland 155, Regent Street, London, Tel. 0207 534 9810 Wempe 43 – 44, New Bond Street, London, Tel. 207 49 32 299

12.03.15 16:11


This page Natural Fancy Vivid Blue diamond earrings 7.60cts with Natural Fancy Vivid, Intense and Deep pink diamonds, 2.05cts. Platinum bangle set with 27.49cts Natural Fancy, Intense and Vivid multicoloured diamonds with 71.97cts E/F fancy cut diamonds. A matching pair of Natural Fancy Intense Pink oval diamonds VVS2/IF weighing 6.49cts with a pink diamond double border. Opposite page Natural Fancy Orangey Pink 10.89cts, Internally Flawless marquise cut diamond, flanked by a pair of FVS1 diamonds weighing 2.05cts, mounted in platinum. A Natural Fancy Vivid Yellow, VVS2 oval diamond weighing 3.36cts mounted in yellow gold with a yellow diamond border. A Natural Fancy Vivid Blue Internally Flawless oval diamond weighing 3.39cts bordered by 2.96cts pink marquise and brilliant diamonds mounted in rose gold.


M OU S S A I EFF LONDON GENEVA HONG KONG LANDMARK, 4208 GLOUCESTER TOWER HONG KONG Tel: +852 2110 2232 info@moussaieff.com.hk

172 NEW BOND STREET LONDON Tel: +44 (0)20 7290 1536 info@moussaieff.co.uk

www.moussaieff-jewellers.com

HILTON HOTEL, 22 PARK LANE LONDON Tel: +44 (0)20 7408 0487 info@moussaieff.co.uk




Editor’s Note 编者的话

C

an you feel it already? The warmth of our noble sun has arrived to this beautiful land of glory. After months of the long wait of freezing winter, we can now start to see some colour in this glorious city. In this Easter issue, one of the highlights is the first Royal Horticultural Society London Rose Show, celebrating England’s favourite flower and her championing rose florist specialists. By the time you are reading this edition, you probably have already painted your Easter eggs. Still, we would like to introduce you some of the very special and rarest Easter eggs before our eyes. The “Fabergé eggs” are considered as the world’s most appraised and precious jewel eggs of all. Since 1885, just a limited number of these treasures have ever been created, and were once collected only by the Royals as well as a few of the

许您已感到,和煦的阳光重临英伦大地,扫

也走寒冬,带来一身暖意。经过连月的守候, 寒冬脚步渐远,伦敦又再绽放灿烂多姿的花色。 本期推介 Royal Horticultural Society 即将举办的 首届伦敦玫瑰花展,毫无疑问将会成为这种英国 最爱花朵争妍斗艳的舞台,也是一众玫瑰花卉专 家一展才华的不二机会。 当您阅读《爵》最新一期杂志之时,或许您已为 用来庆祝节日的复活蛋着色,但也不妨翻阅〈帝 王馈赠的复活蛋〉一文。您会发现一些十分特别 而罕有的复活蛋跃现眼前。Fabergé 的珠宝蛋,以 珍贵珠宝装饰点缀而成,是世上备受称颂的珍藏 瑰宝。自 1885 年以来,Fabergé 精心雕琢的珍品 为数不多,一度只有王室成员或少数最富有人士

wealthiest individuals in history. This Spring, we recommend you to get ready for the opening of “Watch Art Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London” this May at Saatchi Gallery London, bringing the celebrations of the best of the best Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary to the climax. Since London is the culture centre of Europe, “good food good eat” is virtually everywhere. We ask you to try out “Hibiscus” and “Dinner by Heston Blumenthal”, the Michelin 2 stars restaurants for some finest dining experience. While the warm front is certainly on its way, so get ready to all the fantastic outing in one of the utmost exquisite and exciting city in the world. Team MARQUESS 才有资格收藏。 这个春天令人期待的另一重头节目,就是 5 月份 在伦敦萨奇画廊举办的百达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博 览。一系列无与伦比的精湛腕表,将把百达翡丽 175 周年庆祝活动推向高潮。 此外,身为欧洲文化中心的伦敦,美食佳肴遍布 全城各个角落。于 Hibiscus 和 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal 两间米其林二星餐厅用膳,相信能让 您品味到英国传统佳肴以及春季时令鲜味,真个 不枉到此饮食名城一游。 乘着回暖春分步伐驰至,是时候为户外访游这个 糅合精致与刺激缤纷的世界城市做好准备!

MARQUESS 团队

Marquess Tourist Magazine is published by Sing Tao (UK) Ltd in London, UK and is part of the Sing Tao News Corporation publication. www.SingTaoNewsCorp.com

MARQUESS Tourist Magazine is a member of the GREAT China Welcome Charter, an intiative which aims to make Britain the most welcoming destination in Europe for Chinese visitors. Run by VisitBritain with the support of the UK Government, the GREAT China Welcome Charter is only open to companies which have demonstrated services and facilities that are particularly suitable for Chinese visitors. By selecting a company which displays the GREAT China Welcome Chartermark a visitor from china can be confident a warm welcome. For more information, visit www.visitbritain.org/greatchinawelcome

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Contents 目录 Easter Special 10 Fabergé: The Most Opulent Easter Egg Haute Horlogerie 14 Inter iew with A. Lange & Söhne CEO 18 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London Fine Jewellery 22 Moussaieff: A Specialt in Coloured Diamonds Royal Warrants 28 Pentaligon’s: A Cent r of Frag ance 32 Ex aordinar Bow Cherishing GARRARD 280th Year British Etiquette 34 Meeting the Royal Family Members Fashion 38 The Spirit al Home of Al ed Dunhill 44 Dior and I 48 Welcome To Mulber Garden Seasonal Attractions 52 Amble Along the Flower Car et 56 Premier Leag e Fever Fine Dining 58 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal: British Traditional Cuisine 62 Hibiscus: 2 Michelin Star ed Chef Reveals Secrets to Success Tourist Attractions 64 A Dram Fine Whisky Month 66 The Aladdin’s Cave of Whisky 67 The Macallan 1824 Masters Series 68 UK Film Scenes Visit Art and Culture 70 London Craſt Week to Debut in May 74 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beaut 76 Miss Saigon Recurs: The World-Record Breaking Musical Map and Guide 80 Cent al London 82 Sloane St eet: Inter ational Lux r Brands Selling Uniqueness

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复活节精选 10 帝王馈赠的复活蛋 高端钟表 14 专访行政总裁 Wilhelm Schmid 18 百达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博览 精致珠宝 22 彩钻专家 皇家认证 28 百年芬芳 32 非一般的蝴蝶结 英式礼仪 34 跟王室成员碰面 时装 38 造访登喜路尊贵服务邸宅 44 Dior and I 之台前幕后 48 英伦华衣花裳 春季导赏 52 英国花季寻香 56 迎接英超季末狂热 精巧美膳 58 在 21 世纪品尝英式传统美膳 62 米其林二星大厨披露成功秘诀 主题旅游 64 威士忌月 : 喝一口生命之水 66 全球最齐全的威士忌库 67 麦卡伦大师级酒系 68 访游英国电影场景 艺术与文化 70 伦敦工艺周 5 月首度登场 74 亚历山大·麦昆 : 野性之美 76《西贡小姐》重演 破世界票房纪录 地图指南 80 伦敦市中心 82 斯隆街 : 国际知名品牌候驾

©RBG KEW Cover Image: Charm Collection © House of Fabergé Printed in UK by MARQUESS Magazine Telephone : +44 (0) 20 8732 7635 Editorial : editorial@marquessmagazine.com Advertising : advertising@marquessmagazine.com

marquessmagazine.com

3/19/2015 5:31:52 PM


The Most Opulent Easter Egg Fabergé : 帝王馈赠的复活蛋

The Fabergé Lilies of the Valley Egg, 1898 ©The Forbes Collection

More than a century ago, the Russian Tsar Alexander III commissioned the House of Fabergé to create precious Easter eggs to surprise his wife, the Empress Maria Fedorovna, bringing the most captivating Easter gifts the world has ever seen. 逾一世纪以前,俄国沙王亚历山大三世委任 House of Fabergé 创制金雕玉砌的复活蛋, 送给王后玛丽亚・费奥多罗芙娜。 这份贴心的惊喜,从此为世界带来一份尊贵独特的复活节礼品。

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he stor continued and became a yearly imperial t adition for 32 years. Founded in 1842, the House of Fabergé was bestowed with the title “Goldsmith by special appoint ent to the Imperial Crown”. Each imperial egg was an ar istic tour de force, taken a year or more to make, involving a team of highly skilled craſtsmen. As the t adition went on, the brand was given complete eedom in the desig and execution. The only stipulation was that each egg should contain a surprise. The first Imperial egg had enough sur rise. Known as the “Hen Egg”, its “shell” is enamelled on gold. It can be pulled apar to reveal a gold yolk, which in t r opens to produce a gold chicken that can also open to reveal a replica of the Imperial Crown om which a miniat re r by egg was suspended. The 1898 “Lilies of the Valley Egg” (picture on the left) surprises you when the pict re ames of the Imperial family are elevated by t isting a bu on. The House of Fabergé has completed a total of 54 Imperial eggs, of which 42 have sur ived. The Hen Egg is now in the collection of Victor Vekselberg, a wealthy Russian businessman. 10 Imperial eggs are held in the Kremlin Ar our Museum in Moscow whereas Queen Elizabeth II of Britain owns 4 eggs, which are par of The Royal Collection. The Imperial eggs have always been under the l i m e l i g h t . I n t h e 1 9 83 Ja m e s B o n d m o vi e “Octopussy”, the 1897 Coronation Egg is the cent al object of the plot. In 2007, the “Rothschild Egg” was auctioned at Christie’s in London for £8.98 million.

Easter Special 复活节精选 后 32 年,馈赠珠宝复活蛋成为俄国王

室每年的传统。创于 1842 年的 House

of Fabergé,获俄国王室特委为“铸造王冠 的御用金匠”。由 House of Fabergé 打造的 王室复活蛋,每颗都是一趟艺术之旅,由造 诣高超的工匠团队耗时逾年完成。 经过多年合作,俄国王室放心让品牌自由创 作,唯一要求是每颗蛋必须隐藏惊喜。事实 上,第一颗王室复活蛋已惊喜十足。此蛋别 号为 Hen Egg,由搪瓷包金营造白色“蛋壳” 的观感,内含金造的蛋黄,打开球状蛋黄会 发现一只金造的小鸡,金鸡内再藏着一顶仿 照原型造的王冠,王冠上悬着一颗蛋状红 宝石。另一颗王室复活蛋、出自 1898 年的 Lilies of the Valley Egg( 左图 ),解开小机关 后,3 个相架随即弹起,上面是沙皇的家庭 照,又是另一番惊喜。 House of Fabergé 前后共设计打造了 54 颗王 室复活蛋,现仍尚存的有 42 颗。Hen Egg 现由俄国富商 Victor Vekselberg 拥有,另有 10 颗被莫斯科 Kremlin Armoury 博物馆收归 所有。英女王伊利沙伯二世亦拥有 4 颗王室 复活蛋,均被列入 The Royal Collection。 气派非凡的王室复活蛋经常备受注目和爱 戴,1983 年詹姆斯·邦德之系列电影《八 爪 女 》(Octopussy), 便 是 以 1897 年 的 Coronation Egg 为 剧情轴心。2007 年, Rothschild Egg 在 伦敦佳士德一次拍卖 中,成交价近 900 万镑。

The Fabergé Hen Egg, 1885 ©Getty Images

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The Imperial Easter eggs are cer ainly the most celebrated and awe-inspiring of all Fabergé works of ar . This year, the brand reveals the Fabergé Pearl Egg, which is the first creation since 1917.

在 House of Fabergé 一 众 艺 术 珍 宝 中, 王 室复活蛋堪称品牌最为人所赞颂的旷世杰 作。今年品牌延续传奇,推出 Fabergé Pearl Egg,是 1917 年以来首个复活珠宝蛋作品。

The brand shows its ar ist not only in objets d’ar , but also in contemporar jeweller and timepieces.

This exquisite egg pays homage to the series of Imperial eggs, the pearl theme links inex icably with royalt , st le and stat s. It embodies 139 fine, white pearls with a golden lust e, 3,305 diamonds, car ed rock cr stal and mother-of-pearl set on white and yellow gold. Each pearl ador ing the egg was hand-selected by Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan om his private collection.

这颗贵气迫人的珍珠蛋,固然是向王室复活 蛋系列致敬,珍珠主题体现了王室贵气,风 姿凛然,尽显地位。蛋上是 139 颗精致白珍 珠,又隐隐散发金光,另镶有 3,305 颗钻石, 连带雕花水晶石,白金与黄金上细镶着珍 珠贝母。所有珍珠皆出自名珠宝 家 Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan 之珍藏,由他逐颗挑选。

计时器。

品牌的艺术况味不只展现在复活蛋上,多年 来技艺升华,带来充满现代感的珠宝首饰和

High Jewellery Egg Pendants Fabergé Treasures, a charismatic and diverse collection of jewellery and objects, frequently one-off, is inspired by the Fabergé ethos of embarking on a new adventure, striking a different path and making something that stands apart. 被誉为品牌瑰宝,多样化的珠宝设计和配搭尽 显魅力,通常是只此一次的系列。启发自品牌 勇于冒险、敢于求新的精神,誓要惊为天人。

L’oeuf Aux Roses

Charm Collection T h e b r a n d ’s l a t e s t c o l l e c t i o n introduces a series of enchanting egg-shaped charms, to be collected on a chain bracelet. The charms are available in the Treillage, Spiral, Cadeau and Emotion collections, as well as a diamond-set gold egg which can be engraved with a personal message or initials, for a bespoke gift. 品牌之最新系列推出七彩缤纷的蛋形吊咀,与手 链配成一套。贯彻品牌固有特色,吊咀分别有 Treillage、Spiral、Cadeau 与 Emotion 4 种设计。还有镶钻金蛋更可刻上个人讯 息或名字缩写,成为别出心裁的 度身订做礼物。

Fabergé Imperial Collection The Collection is inspired by the jewelled splendour of the Imperial Romanov court, and evokes the rhythms of the Russian seasons, whether literal or metaphorical. 系列顾名思义由沙皇罗曼诺夫王朝启发,旨 在唤起俄罗斯四季的节奏,既鲜明亦隐晦。

Zarista Diamond Earrings

The Heritage Collection

The Fabergé Pearl Egg, 2015 ©Fabergé

It draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection.

Zénaide Diamond Tassel Pendant

灵感取自品牌的原创珠宝,聚焦当中的 细腻动人、丰富的文化和完美的技术。

Palais Yelagin Royal Blue Pendant

All the above pieces can be purchased at www.faberge.com or in stores. 以上产品于 www.faberge.com 及门市有售。 14a Grafton Street, London W1S 4ET

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The brand shows its artistry not only in objets d’art, but also in contemporary jewellery and timepieces. 品牌的艺术况味不只展现在复活蛋上,多年 来技艺升华,带来充满现代感的珠宝首饰和 计时器。

High Jewellery Egg Pendants

Fabergé Treasures, a charismatic and diverse collection of jewellery and objects, frequently one-off, is inspired by the Fabergé ethos of embarking on a new adventure, striking a different path and making something that stands apart. 被誉为品牌瑰宝,多样化的珠宝设计和配搭尽 显魅力,通常是只此一次的系列。启发自品牌 勇于冒险、敢于求新的精神,誓要惊为天人。

L’oeuf Aux Roses

Charm Collection

T h e b r a n d ’s l a t e s t c o l l e c t i o n introduces a series of enchanting egg-shaped charms, to be collected on a chain bracelet. The charms are available in the Treillage, Spiral, Cadeau and Emotion collections, as well as a diamond-set gold egg which can be engraved with a personal message or initials, for a bespoke gift. 品牌之最新系列推出七彩缤纷的蛋形吊咀,与手 链配成一套。贯彻品牌固有特色,吊咀分别有 Treillage、Spiral、Cadeau 与 Emotion 4 种设计。还有镶钻金蛋更可刻上个人讯 息或名字缩写,成为别出心裁的 度身订做礼物。

Fabergé Imperial Collection

The Collection is inspired by the jewelled splendour of the Imperial Romanov court, and evokes the rhythms of the Russian seasons, whether literal or metaphorical. 系列顾名思义由沙皇罗曼诺夫王朝启发,旨 在唤起俄罗斯四季的节奏,既鲜明亦隐晦。

Zarista Diamond Earrings

The Heritage Collection

It draws inspiration from Fabergé’s original jewelled masterpieces, capturing their refinement, cultural richness and technical perfection.

Zénaide Diamond Tassel Pendant

灵感取自品牌的原创珠宝,聚焦当中的 细腻动人、丰富的文化和完美的技术。

Palais Yelagin Royal Blue Pendant

All the above pieces can be purchased at www.faberge.com or in stores. 以上产品于 www.faberge.com 及门市有售。 14a Grafton Street, London W1S 4ET

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Interview with CEO Wilhelm Schmid 访行政总裁谈发展方向

F

or 170 years, A. Lange & Söhne has been sharing the same brand vision as its founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange : to build the world’s best watches. Since 1845, a scientific approach has been adopted to watchmaking. The pursuit of ultimate precision and the ambition to drive the technological development have been preserved within the brand until today. 年以来,A. Lange & Söhne 一直秉承跟 这170 品 牌 创 办 人 Ferdinand Adolph Lange 相 同 的愿景——打造世界上最好的手表。自 1845 年 开始,其在制表工艺上采纳了一种科学方法。 而 A. Lange & Söhne 追求终极精准和推动技术 发展的雄心亦一直维持至今。

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Haute Horlogerie 高端钟表

Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of Lange Uhren GmbH

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The Pursuit of Ultimate Precision for 170 Years 追求终极精准 170 年 When asked about how the rich heritage of A. Lange & Söhne contributes to its present design, Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of Lange Uhren GmbH told us, “A. Lange & Söhne watches have always been known for their high recognition value, both in terms of product and movement design. Some style elements like the three-quarter plate of German silver, the hand-engraved balance cock or the typeface have their roots in the early days of the brand.” He further explained, “The present style of A. Lange & Söhne can be characterised as contemporary classical elegance that is intended to stand the test of time. Watch connoisseurs appreciate the timelessness and the fact that an A. Lange & Söhne can always be identified even without the famous arched logo.”

“For more than 20 years, the Lange 1 has been the face of A. Lange & Söhne. The idea behind its development was to create a watch with a new design and fundamental technical innovations that conveyed the brand’s traditional values to the present era. With its asymmetric dial and the first outsize date, it won instant acclaim following its debut in 1994. As a company that does not rest on its laurels, A. Lange & Söhne has just equipped our most successful model with a new technically evolved calibre.” he said. It is not easy to adapt the rich traditional heritage feature to the modern trend/style. By bonding with its customers and listening to the wishes and needs of demanding collectors and connoisseurs, A. Lange & Söhne strives to exceed their expectations with innovative timepieces that represent the pinnacle of fine watchmaking and set milestones in calibre design.

当被问到 A. Lange & Söhne 的丰富历史传统

如 何 造 就 现 今 的 设 计,Lange Uhren GmbH 行 政 总 裁 Wilhelm Schmid 表 示,A.Lange & Söhne 的腕表无论在产品或机芯设计方面,

都获得高度认可。如以德国银 制作的 3/4 夹板、手工雕花 摆轮夹板或字体等风格元 素,都带有品牌早期的 影子。 他 续 解 释,A. Lange &

Söhne 目前的风格定位为 当代古典优雅,务求经得 Three-quarter plate

其历久不衰和毋须看到著名拱形标志也能识 别出腕表的设计称赏不已。 他说,“ 逾 20 年来,Lange 1 系列腕表一直是 A. Lange & Söhne 的代表作。制作此表最初

的想法是把品牌的传统价值带到当代,因此 采用全新设计,并革新基本技术。凭借其不 对称的表盘和首次采用的超大日期显示,它 在 1994 年面世之际即获好评。作为一间拒绝 固步自封的公司,A. Lange & Söhne 刚好利 用最新研发的机芯,为我们最成功的型号升 级 ”。

限量版纪念创办人 200 岁冥辰

As a visionary and charismatic leader, Ferdinand Adolph Lange had a remarkable talent to win people for his ideas and bring lasting prosperity to a once impoverished region. By re-establishing the brand in Glashütte in 1990, A. Lange & Söhne has continued the tradition and made an important contribution towards creating and safeguarding jobs in a region that is still structurally weak. Furthermore, the promotion of young talents has been rooted deeply in the tradition of the brand.

A limited 200-watch edition of the 1815 in platinum with a black dial, which A. Lange & Söhne just presented to commemorate the 200th birthday of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, stands in a line of exquisite timepieces that live up to the brand’s annual theme and central promise to never stand still. With its 3 levels and the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, the face is reminiscent of the legendary pocket watches crafted by F. A. Lange. The portrait of Ferdinand Adolph Lange.

The 1815 “200th Anniversary F. A. Lange”

身为有远见和富魅力的领袖,朗格在赢得别人支持其主意方 面拥有特别天赋,并为曾經一度贫困的地区带来持续繁荣。A. Lange & Söhne 于 1990 年在格拉苏蒂重新建立品牌,承继传统

要平衡深厚历史传统和现代潮流 / 风格并不 容易。通过与客户联系和聆听高要求的收藏 家和鉴赏家的愿望和需求,品 牌努力制作在质量和设

之余,并创造和稳固就业机会,为该经济结构仍然薄弱的地区 作出重要贡献。此外,提拔年轻人才已成为品牌根深蒂固的传 统。 A. Lange & Söhne 为纪念费尔迪南多·阿道夫·朗格 200 岁冥

计方面俱达到技术顶

辰,刚刚推出 1815 的腕表系列,铂金配黑色表盘,限量 200 只。

端 的 精 致 腕 表, 特 别

它跟品牌旗下其他精致腕表一样,既符合年度主题,亦守护了

是建立机芯设计的里程碑,

永不停滞的中心承诺。限量腕表在 6 点钟位置的 3 层设计和独

期能超越他们的期望。

Lange 1

16

起时间的考验。钟表鉴赏家对

Limited Edition Commemorates Founder 200th Birthday

立秒盘,让人联想到朗格所制作的传奇怀表。

Serial number from 001/200 to 200/200 is engraved on the backside.

A. Lange & Söhne Boutique: HARRODS, The Fine Watch Room, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL A. Lange & Söhne Boutique: HARRODS, The Fine Watch Room, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL

17


The Pursuit of Ultimate Precision for 170 Years 追求终极精准 170 年 When asked about how the rich heritage of A. Lange & Söhne contributes to its present design, Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of Lange Uhren GmbH told us, “A. Lange & Söhne watches have always been known for their high recognition value, both in terms of product and movement design. Some style elements like the three-quarter plate of German silver, the hand-engraved balance cock or the typeface have their roots in the early days of the brand.” He further explained, “The present style of A. Lange & Söhne can be characterised as contemporary classical elegance that is intended to stand the test of time. Watch connoisseurs appreciate the timelessness and the fact that an A. Lange & Söhne can always be identified even without the famous arched logo.”

“For more than 20 years, the Lange 1 has been the face of A. Lange & Söhne. The idea behind its development was to create a watch with a new design and fundamental technical innovations that conveyed the brand’s traditional values to the present era. With its asymmetric dial and the first outsize date, it won instant acclaim following its debut in 1994. As a company that does not rest on its laurels, A. Lange & Söhne has just equipped our most successful model with a new technically evolved calibre.” he said. It is not easy to adapt the rich traditional heritage feature to the modern trend/style. By bonding with its customers and listening to the wishes and needs of demanding collectors and connoisseurs, A. Lange & Söhne strives to exceed their expectations with innovative timepieces that represent the pinnacle of fine watchmaking and set milestones in calibre design.

当被问到 A. Lange & Söhne 的丰富历史传统

如 何 造 就 现 今 的 设 计,Lange Uhren GmbH 行 政 总 裁 Wilhelm Schmid 表 示,A.Lange & Söhne 的腕表无论在产品或机芯设计方面,

都获得高度认可。如以德国银 制作的 3/4 夹板、手工雕花 摆轮夹板或字体等风格元 素,都带有品牌早期的 影子。 他 续 解 释,A. Lange &

Söhne 目前的风格定位为 当代古典优雅,务求经得 Three-quarter plate

其历久不衰和毋须看到著名拱形标志也能识 别出腕表的设计称赏不已。 他说,“ 逾 20 年来,Lange 1 系列腕表一直是 A. Lange & Söhne 的代表作。制作此表最初

的想法是把品牌的传统价值带到当代,因此 采用全新设计,并革新基本技术。凭借其不 对称的表盘和首次采用的超大日期显示,它 在 1994 年面世之际即获好评。作为一间拒绝 固步自封的公司,A. Lange & Söhne 刚好利 用最新研发的机芯,为我们最成功的型号升 级 ”。

限量版纪念创办人 200 岁冥辰

As a visionary and charismatic leader, Ferdinand Adolph Lange had a remarkable talent to win people for his ideas and bring lasting prosperity to a once impoverished region. By re-establishing the brand in Glashütte in 1990, A. Lange & Söhne has continued the tradition and made an important contribution towards creating and safeguarding jobs in a region that is still structurally weak. Furthermore, the promotion of young talents has been rooted deeply in the tradition of the brand.

A limited 200-watch edition of the 1815 in platinum with a black dial, which A. Lange & Söhne just presented to commemorate the 200th birthday of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, stands in a line of exquisite timepieces that live up to the brand’s annual theme and central promise to never stand still. With its 3 levels and the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, the face is reminiscent of the legendary pocket watches crafted by F. A. Lange. The portrait of Ferdinand Adolph Lange.

The 1815 “200th Anniversary F. A. Lange”

身为有远见和富魅力的领袖,朗格在赢得别人支持其主意方 面拥有特别天赋,并为曾經一度贫困的地区带来持续繁荣。A. Lange & Söhne 于 1990 年在格拉苏蒂重新建立品牌,承继传统

要平衡深厚历史传统和现代潮流 / 风格并不 容易。通过与客户联系和聆听高要求的收藏 家和鉴赏家的愿望和需求,品 牌努力制作在质量和设

之余,并创造和稳固就业机会,为该经济结构仍然薄弱的地区 作出重要贡献。此外,提拔年轻人才已成为品牌根深蒂固的传 统。 A. Lange & Söhne 为纪念费尔迪南多·阿道夫·朗格 200 岁冥

计方面俱达到技术顶

辰,刚刚推出 1815 的腕表系列,铂金配黑色表盘,限量 200 只。

端 的 精 致 腕 表, 特 别

它跟品牌旗下其他精致腕表一样,既符合年度主题,亦守护了

是建立机芯设计的里程碑,

永不停滞的中心承诺。限量腕表在 6 点钟位置的 3 层设计和独

期能超越他们的期望。

Lange 1

16

起时间的考验。钟表鉴赏家对

Limited Edition Commemorates Founder 200th Birthday

立秒盘,让人联想到朗格所制作的传奇怀表。

Serial number from 001/200 to 200/200 is engraved on the backside.

A. Lange & Söhne Boutique: HARRODS, The Fine Watch Room, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL A. Lange & Söhne Boutique: HARRODS, The Fine Watch Room, 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL

17


Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London 百达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博览

T

he Countdown for the opening of “Watch Ar Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London” has officially begun. Taking place from May 27 to June 7 at Saatchi Galler London, over 400 exceptional timepieces spanning 175 years of watchmaking histor will be presented to the public, bringing the celebrations of Patek Philippe 175th anniversar to its climax.

In a space of 2,200 square metres, the free admission exhibition will feat re over 15 themed areas. Some of the highlights include 175th Anniversar Area, Salon Napoleon and The Museum. In addition to the newly launched commemorative collection, some of the g eatest historical timepieces spanning the last five cent ries will be on display. As sy ony ous to the Museum in Geneva, a replicate visit ex erience of the Patek Philippe Salon on the Rue de Rhone can be ex ected.

18

18-19-patek philippe-01.indd 1

达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博览的开幕倒数

已正式开始。这个于 5 月 27 日至 6 月

7 日在伦敦萨奇画廊举行的展览,将展出超 过 400 只卓越腕表。届时,跨越 175 年的钟 表制造历史将沥沥呈现公众面前,把百达翡 丽 175 周年庆祝活动推向高潮。 在 2,200 平 方 米 的 空 间 内, 免 费 入 场 的 展 览 将 划 成 超 过 15 个 主 题 展 区。 其 中 一 些 亮 点 展 区, 包 括 175 周 年 纪 念 区、Salon Napoleon 和 The Museum。除了新推出的纪 念藏品,一些横跨近 5 个世纪的伟大历史计 时器亦会展出。展览的设计与日内瓦的博物 馆类近,务求为访客提供与参观日内瓦 Rue de Rhone 百达翡丽沙龙一样的体验。

19

3/18/2015 7:51:19 PM


Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London 百达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博览

T

he Countdown for the opening of “Watch Ar Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London” has officially begun. Taking place from May 27 to June 7 at Saatchi Galler London, over 400 exceptional timepieces spanning 175 years of watchmaking histor will be presented to the public, bringing the celebrations of Patek Philippe 175th anniversar to its climax.

In a space of 2,200 square metres, the free admission exhibition will feat re over 15 themed areas. Some of the highlights include 175th Anniversar Area, Salon Napoleon and The Museum. In addition to the newly launched commemorative collection, some of the g eatest historical timepieces spanning the last five cent ries will be on display. As sy ony ous to the Museum in Geneva, a replicate visit ex erience of the Patek Philippe Salon on the Rue de Rhone can be ex ected.

达翡丽钟表艺术伦敦博览的开幕倒数

已正式开始。这个于 5 月 27 日至 6 月

7 日在伦敦萨奇画廊举行的展览,将展出超 过 400 个卓越计时器。届时,跨越 175 年的 钟表制造历史将沥沥呈现公众面前,把百达 翡丽 175 周年庆祝活动推向高潮。 在 2,200 平 方 米 的 空 间 内, 免 费 入 场 的 展 览 将 划 成 超 过 15 个 主 题 展 区。 其 中 一 些 亮 点 展 区, 包 括 175 周 年 纪 念 区、Salon Napoleon 和 The Museum。除了新推出的纪 念藏品,一些横跨近 5 个世纪的伟大历史计 时器亦会展出。展览的设计与日内瓦的博物 馆类近,务求为访客提供与参观日内瓦 Rue de Rhone 百达翡丽沙龙一样的体验。

19

3/18/2015 11:42:49 PM


A Glimpse at Current Exhibits 当今展品一瞥 Some of the rarest and most complicated timepieces created by Patek Philippe will be on display. 展品包括由百达翡 丽所创制一些最稀 有和最复杂 的计时器。

Grand Complications Ref. 5140

Calatrava Ref. 7121

Combining all the pivotal traditions of the manufacture, the Calatrava Ref. 7121 moon-phase watch features a vintage Officer’s style case, a mechanical movement with a moon-phase complication and a bezel set with 66 immaculate diamonds. This classic and seductive creation in 18K yellow gold turns any time of day into enchanting moments, which makes it the perfect piece for private and social settings, business invitations, cocktails and formal evening functions.

The ultra-thin perpetual calendar ranks among the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces. In 2006, it was launched in a slightly larger version emphasising its slender silhouette. Since the date is the most important indication, the designers made it more legible by enlarging the diameter of the calendar dial at 6 o’clock while leaving the dimensions of the other two dials unchanged. Now, it is available in new rose gold and platinum models that ideally complement the yellow gold and white gold siblings of this classic Patek Philippe Grand Complication.

Calatrava Ref. 7121 月相腕表采用复古将官式表壳,配

超薄万年历是百达翡丽最具标志性时计之一。在 2006 年,

备带月相显示的复杂功能机械机芯,表圈更镶嵌了 66 颗

品牌推出一个面积较大的型号,以突出其纤细的轮廓。由于

完美无瑕的钻石,完美融合了百达翡丽传统工艺的精髓。

日期是最重要的标示,设计师为了加强清晰度,将表盘上位

这款经典和诱人的腕表以 18K 黄金打造而成,能将一天

于 6 点钟位置的日历盘扩大,然星期和月份的转盘大小则维

内的任何时间变得迷人,是出席私人与社交活动、商务 宴请、鸡尾酒会及正式晚宴等场合的最佳配搭。

20

持不变。现时有售的新式玫瑰金和铂金款型号,为百达翡丽 Calatrava Ref. 7121

经典的 Grand Complication 系列的黄金和白金型号锦上添花。

Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 4RY

Grand Complications Ref. 5140

www.patek.com/London2015

21


A Glimpse at Current Exhibits 当今展品一瞥 Some of the rarest and most complicated timepieces created by Patek Philippe will be on display. 展品包括由百达翡 丽所创制一些最稀 有和最复杂 的计时器。

Grand Complications Ref. 5140

Calatrava Ref. 7121

Combining all the pivotal traditions of the manufacture, the Calatrava Ref. 7121 moon-phase watch features a vintage Officer’s style case, a mechanical movement with a moon-phase complication and a bezel set with 66 immaculate diamonds. This classic and seductive creation in 18K yellow gold turns any time of day into enchanting moments, which makes it the perfect piece for private and social settings, business invitations, cocktails and formal evening functions.

The ultra-thin perpetual calendar ranks among the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces. In 2006, it was launched in a slightly larger version emphasising its slender silhouette. Since the date is the most important indication, the designers made it more legible by enlarging the diameter of the calendar dial at 6 o’clock while leaving the dimensions of the other two dials unchanged. Now, it is available in new rose gold and platinum models that ideally complement the yellow gold and white gold siblings of this classic Patek Philippe Grand Complication.

Calatrava Ref. 7121 月相腕表采用复古将官式表壳,配

超薄万年历是百达翡丽最具标志性时计之一。在 2006 年,

备带月相显示的复杂功能机械机芯,表圈更镶嵌了 66 颗

品牌推出一个面积较大的型号,以突出其纤细的轮廓。由于

完美无瑕的钻石,完美融合了百达翡丽传统工艺的精髓。

日期是最重要的标示,设计师为了加强清晰度,将表盘上位

这款经典和诱人的腕表以 18K 黄金打造而成,能将一天

于 6 点钟位置的日历盘扩大,然星期和月份的转盘大小则维

内的任何时间变得迷人,是出席私人与社交活动、商务 宴请、鸡尾酒会及正式晚宴等场合的最佳配搭。

20

持不变。现时有售的新式玫瑰金和铂金款型号,为百达翡丽 Calatrava Ref. 7121

经典的 Grand Complication 系列的黄金和白金型号锦上添花。

Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 4RY

Grand Complications Ref. 5140

www.patek.com/London2015

21


New Collections 最新藏品系列

A Specialty in Coloured Diamonds

彩钻专家

W

orld-renowned act ess Zhang Ziyi, who star ed in “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”, has recently accepted a proposal by Chinese Rocker Wang Feng with a 9.15 carat diamond ring created by London’s Moussaieff. Established in the mid 19th cent r , Moussaieff is known as A Specialt in Coloured Diamonds. 出演《卧虎藏龙》的国际知名影星章子怡,早前

接受了中国摇滚歌手汪峰的求婚,其 9.15 克拉

名贵订婚钻戒是伦敦 Moussaieff 珠宝商所出。 早于 19 世纪中期成立的 Moussaieff, 是名副其实的彩色钻石专 家。

Titanium diamond set “feather” necklace featuring a 57.21cts Natural Vibrant Neon Green Paraiba Tourmaline

Earrings featuring a matching pair of emerald cut diamonds 31.27cts KVS2 & 30.33cts LVS2

Earrings featuring a pair of oval cut Natural Fancy Pink diamonds 3.28cts VVS2 & 3.21cts Internally Flawless

The cur ent owner of Moussaieff, Alisa Moussaieff, is the third generation of the jeweller family. She and her husband have star ed to collect coloured diamonds in the early 1960s, almost 20 years ahead of the value of these stones becoming widely recog ised. Over the years, Alisa has built an impressive collection of rare and ex aordinar stones, in which the Moussaieff Red is a major highlight. Astonished in size, qualit and depth of colour as a nat ral red diamond, the rough stone was discovered in the 1990s by a far er in Brazil. The t iang lar-shaped deep red diamond, which at 5.11cts, is the largest Nat ral Fancy Red cer ificated diamond in the world.

In 1850, Moussaieff, the grandfather of Alisa’s husband Mr. Shlomo Moussaieff, was a pearl merchant who t avelled throughout the deser s of Arabia to find the most ravishing natural pearls om the Persian Gulf. His knowledge and ex er ise was passed down to his son who moved to Paris in the 1920s and has become the main supplier of Oriental pearls and precious stones for the jewellers of the Belle Époque period. In 1963, the family moved to London. Known only to the world’s elite jeweller cog oscenti for 40 years, Moussaieff ex anded into an impressive flagship showroom in Bond St eet in 2006.

Flower Ring featuring a Natural Fancy Vivid Pink diamond 5.70cts SI1 surrounded by 11.17cts D/E/F colour diamonds

Moussaieff 目前的老板 Alisa Moussaieff,是 经营此家族珠宝生意的第三代。她和丈夫早 在 60 年代初便开始收藏彩色钻石,较这些 彩钻价值获广泛认可时期足足早了近 20 年。 多年来,Alisa 所收集的珍稀和非凡钻石藏 品,让人赞叹不已,当中的 Moussaieff Red 是一大亮点。这颗无论在大小、质量和色 彩深度都令人惊叹的天然红色钻石, 其原石是由巴西一名农民于 90 年 代发现。打磨后的三角形深红钻 石达 5.11 克拉,是世界上经认 证的最大天然彩色红钻。 Alisa 丈 夫 Shlomo 的 祖 父 Moussaieff 是贩卖珍珠商人, 于 1850 年不惜远赴阿拉伯沙漠搜 寻波斯湾最令人陶醉的天然珍珠。其后, 他把专门知识和经验传给儿子。他的儿子 在 1920 年代移居巴黎,并为巴黎“美丽年 代”的珠宝商供应东方珍珠和宝石。1963 年, 他 们 举 家 迁 往 伦 敦。 在 其 后 40 年, Moussaieff 的名字仅为世界珠宝行家精英所 熟识,直至 2006 年品牌扩充,在邦德街开 设令人印象犹深的旗舰展厅。

Zhang Ziyi©HO/A.M.P.A.S.

172 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE

22-23-Moussaieff-01.indd 1

T: +44 0207 290 1536

3/18/2015 5:35:18 PM


New Collections 最新藏品系列

Earrings featuring a matching pair of emerald cut diamonds 31.27cts KVS2 & 30.33cts LVS2

Earrings featuring a pair of oval cut Natural Fancy Pink diamonds 3.28cts VVS2 & 3.21cts Internally Flawless

The cur ent owner of Moussaieff, Alisa Moussaieff, is the third generation of the jeweller family. She and her husband have star ed to collect coloured diamonds in the early 1960s, almost 20 years ahead of the value of these stones becoming widely recog ised. Over the years, Alisa has built an impressive collection of rare and ex aordinar stones, in which the Moussaieff Red is a major highlight. Astonished in size, qualit and depth of colour as a nat ral red diamond, the rough stone was discovered in the 1990s by a far er in Brazil. The t iang lar-shaped deep red diamond, which at 5.11cts, is the largest Nat ral Fancy Red cer ificated diamond in the world.

In 1850, Moussaieff, the grandfather of Alisa’s husband Mr. Shlomo Moussaieff, was a pearl merchant who t avelled throughout the deser s of Arabia to find the most ravishing natural pearls om the Persian Gulf. His knowledge and ex er ise was passed down to his son who moved to Paris in the 1920s and has become the main supplier of Oriental pearls and precious stones for the jewellers of the Belle Époque period. In 1963, the family moved to London. Known only to the world’s elite jeweller cog oscenti for 40 years, Moussaieff ex anded into an impressive flagship showroom in Bond St eet in 2006.

172 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE

T: +44 0207 290 1536

Fine Jewellery 精致珠宝

Flower Ring featuring a Natural Fancy Vivid Pink diamond 5.70cts SI1 surrounded by 11.17cts D/E/F colour diamonds

Moussaieff 目前的老板 Alisa Moussaieff,是 经营此家族珠宝生意的第三代。她和丈夫早 在 60 年代初便开始收藏彩色钻石,较这些 彩钻价值获广泛认可时期足足早了近 20 年。 多年来,Alisa 所收集的珍稀和非凡钻石藏 品,让人赞叹不已,当中的 Moussaieff Red 是一大亮点。这颗无论在大小、质量和色 彩深度都令人惊叹的天然红色钻石, 其原石是由巴西一名农民于 90 年 代发现。打磨后的三角形深红钻 石达 5.11 克拉,是世界上经认 证的最大天然彩色红钻。 Alisa 丈 夫 Shlomo 的 祖 父 Moussaieff 是贩卖珍珠商人, 于 1850 年不惜远赴阿拉伯沙漠搜 寻波斯湾最令人陶醉的天然珍珠。其后, 他把专门知识和经验传给儿子。他的儿子 在 1920 年代移居巴黎,并为巴黎“美丽年 代”的珠宝商供应东方珍珠和宝石。1963 年, 他 们 举 家 迁 往 伦 敦。 在 其 后 40 年, Moussaieff 的名字仅为世界珠宝行家精英所 熟识,直至 2006 年品牌扩充,在邦德街开 设令人印象犹深的旗舰展厅。

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Royal Warrants 皇家认证

Pride of Royal Warrants 皇家认证的骄傲

W

hen walking along the st eets in the United Kingdom, you may find some shops displaying a crest above the door, sometimes there are t o or even three. They are called “Royal War ants”, which are g anted by the Royal Family as a sig of commit ent to the highest standards of ser ice, qualit and excellence. There are cur ently about 850 war ant holders. Only The Queen, The Duke of Edinburgh or The Prince of Wales can g ant Royal War ants. Each of them can g ant only one war ant to any individual business, but a business may hold warrants from more than one member of the Royal Family. In the late 18th Cent r , Royal t adesmen began to display the Royal Ar s on their premises and stationer . But it was Queen Victoria who ensured that Royal War ants gained the prestige they enjoy today.

A company must keep doing business with the Royal Household for at least five years to be considered on the war ant g ant list. Then the company needs approval from the Lord Chamberlain, the head of the Royal Household and chair an of the Royal Household Tradesmen’s Warrants Committee. Royal Warrants are automatically reviewed by the Commi ee one year before ex ir ever five years.

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在英国街头,很多时会看到一些商铺

门口上悬一个标章,有些甚至有 2 至

3 个标章。这个标章,其实是英国独有的“皇 家认证许可”,代表这些商号不但供应产品 或提供服务给女王、爱丁堡公爵和威尔斯亲 王使用,而且品质上亦获得他们的赞赏和肯 定。目前全英约有 850 个商号获得“皇家认 证”标章。 只有英女王、爱丁堡公爵和威尔斯亲王有权 颁发皇家认证。他们每人只能颁发一个认证 给某个商家,但一个商号却可以同时得到超 过一个皇家认证。18 世纪末,英国皇家商人 开始在他们的物业及文具上展示皇家徽章。 然皇家认证获得今天的声誉,背后少不了维 多利亚女王的发扬光大。 一间公司要连续与某位王室成员从商最少 5 年,才会获考虑授予认证之列。而即使王室 成员再喜爱某商品或服务,仍要得到主管皇 家内廷的宫务大臣,亦即皇家商人认证委员 会主席认可,该公司才能获得认证。皇家认 证每次在“5 年期限”到期前一年,委员会 便会自动对其展开续期复检。

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Royal Warrants 皇家认证

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A Century of Fragrance

T

he power of scent is magnificent. It unlocks memories and makes people feel lost somewhere for a moment in time. The Penhaligon’s, the iconic English ag ance with 2 Royal War ants, delivers this power through its uniqueness. The advent re of Penhaligon’s began in the Victorian era and car ies on. It st ives to create the one and only scents and memories for ever one.

As a fine English fragrance house, Penhaligon’s has continued its legend since 1870. The passion and spirit of Penhaligon’s is to follow the founder, William Penhaligon’s legacy of creative and innovative perf mer while seeking new ways to define iconic elegance. The uniqueness of Penhaligon’s ag ance is a vital factor for its success.

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Constructed from a blend of the highest quality nat ral sources and the latest technologies, each scent goes onto the skin and interacts with heat and personal chemist , creating a perfect mar iage. Moreover, the bo les of scent are hand-finished in a t aditional manner. However, it does not mean that the techniques used are ancient. Penhaligon’s keeps ex loring new ag ance technolog and combines with the t aditional elements, creating the one and only scent for each ag ance. Over one cent r , Penhaligon’s still continues its incredible legacy of creative and innovative perf mer , challenging the t aditions of the ar and seeking new ways to inter ret elegance.

百年芬芳 气

味的力量悄无声息但沁人心脾,它能

特芳香。它们是以最高质素的自然原料,配

打开记忆的大门,也能让人迷失于某

合最新技术混合调制而成。当香水喷在肌肤

个时空之中。获两个皇家认证的香水品牌

上,跟人体热力和个人身上物质产生化学作

Penhaligon’s,凭借其独特配方,将香气的力

用,便会构成穿戴者与香水的完美组合。

量发挥到极致。它的历史从维多利亚时代便 开始书写,一直传至今天。品牌致力为顾客 调制独一无二的香气,从而创造回忆。

此外,每瓶香水都是以传统的人工制造,但 这不代表它的制香技术陈旧。Penhaligon’s 一 直致力发掘新的配方和技术,并结合传统元

Penhaligon’s 是英国的传统精美香水品牌,

素,然后创出每种独一无二的香水。

自 1870 年 创 立 至 今 已 有 144 年。William Penhaligon 对香水的创造力和革新香水的传

Penhaligon’s 每款香水都独一无二。经过一世

承,以及寻求为标致优雅香水重新定义的方

纪以来,它仍继续传承着创制和革新香水的

法,均成为 Penhaligon’s 沿袭至今的热诚和

传奇,挑战传统技术,并寻求演绎优雅的新

精神。Penhaligon’s 的成功秘诀是其香水的独

方法。

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百年芬芳 气

味的力量悄无声息但沁人心脾,它能

特芳香。它们是以最高质素的自然原料,配

打开记忆的大门,也能让人迷失于某

合最新技术混合调制而成。当香水喷在肌肤

个时空之中。获两个皇家认证的香水品牌

上,跟人体热力和个人身上物质产生化学作

Penhaligon’s,凭借其独特配方,将香气的力

用,便会构成穿戴者与香水的完美组合。

量发挥到极致。它的历史从维多利亚时代便 开始书写,一直传至今天。品牌致力为顾客 调制独一无二的香气,从而创造回忆。

此外,每瓶香水都是以传统的人工制造,但 这不代表它的制香技术陈旧。Penhaligon’s 一 直致力发掘新的配方和技术,并结合传统元

Penhaligon’s 是英国的传统精美香水品牌,

素,然后创出每种独一无二的香水。

自 1870 年 创 立 至 今 已 有 144 年。William Penhaligon 对香水的创造力和革新香水的传

Penhaligon’s 每款香水都独一无二。经过一世

承,以及寻求为标致优雅香水重新定义的方

纪以来,它仍继续传承着创制和革新香水的

法,均成为 Penhaligon’s 沿袭至今的热诚和

传奇,挑战传统技术,并寻求演绎优雅的新

精神。Penhaligon’s 的成功秘诀是其香水的独

方法。

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Royal Recognition Since the Victorian Era 维多利亚女王时期始获青睐

The Smell of 1872 1872 年的经典芳香

The Penhaligon’s has ear ed their appreciation om the Royal Family since the Victorian era. By the end of Queen Victoria’s reig , William Penhaligon was appointed barber and perf mer to the Royal Cour . In 1903 the business was g anted a Royal War ant by Queen Alexandra. The unique scent has been the favourite of the Royal Family for over 140 years until today. Penhaligon’s has been appointed by The Duke of Edinburgh in 1956 and The Prince of Wales in 1988 respectively as the Royal War ant holder, for its g eat ser ice and dedication to the Royal Family.

The classic ag ance Hammam Bouquet is a daring oriental fragrance created by William Penhaligon in 1872. Inspired by the scent of the Turkish Baths on Jer y St eet, Piccadilly, it is evocative of the Victorian era of discover and indulgence. Wild and golden, it is war and mat re, redolent of old books, powdered resins and ancient rooms. Head notes: Lavender and Bergamot Hear notes: Rose O o, Cedar ood, Or is and Jasmine Base notes: Amber, Musk and Sandalwood Penhaligon’s 经典香水 Hammam Bouquet,是 William Penhaligon 于 1872 年受到皮卡迪利 区 Jermyn 街上的土耳其浴香味启发,大胆

Penhaligon’s best-selling men’s fragrance is Blenheim Bouquet. Taking its name aſter Blenheim Palace, the seat of one of England’s most respected bloodlines, it is a bracing mix of cit s oils, spices and woods. Although created over one hundred years ago in 1902, it has continually adapted to ever t ist and t r of its existence. It has been available for Christ as 2014 in a set.

香水自古已是皇家的宠儿,即使直到 140 多 年后的今天。上乘的产品与矢志为王室的服 务, 让 Penhaligon’s 在 1956 年 和 1988 年, 分别从爱丁堡公爵和威尔斯亲王获得皇家认 证。 Penhaligon’s 每间精品店也是独一无二,绝 不存在两间装潢一样的店铺。它的店铺均是 传统、经典与不凡设计的结合,显出不同凡 响。Penhaligon’s 的 店 铺 与 产 品 一 样, 都 是 经典贵族奢华与现代潮流生活方式混合的结 晶。

Penhaligon’s 最 畅 销 的 男 装 香 水 为 Blenheim Bouquet。它的名字取自英格兰其中一个备

创出的一款东方调香水。它让人联想到维多 利亚时期的探索和享受,金碧辉煌而野性、 温暖而成熟,恍如一个古老房间萦绕着的旧 书和松香挥发的气息。 前调 : 薰衣草、佛手柑 中调 : 玫瑰精油、杉木、鸢尾草、茉莉 尾调 : 琥珀、麝香和白檀

前调 : 柠檬、青柠、薰衣草 中调 : 没有 尾调 : 松木、麝香、黑胡椒

30-31-perfume-02-0319(edited).indd 1

青睐。在维多利亚女王任期后期,William Penhaligon 获皇家法院委任为皇家理发师及 调香师。在 1903 年,公司更获亚历山大女 王颁授皇家认证荣誉。Penhaligon’s 的独特

Head notes: Lemon, Lime, Lavender Hear notes: Blenheim has no hear notes Base notes: Pine, Musk, Blackpepper

受尊崇的血统所在地布伦海姆宫。它的香味 混合了柑橘油、香料和木质香调。尽管它於 1902 年创制至今已有过百年历史,它仍能在 物转星移下屹立不倒。Blenheim Bouquet 在 2014 年圣诞更推出套装销售。

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The boutiques of Penhaligon’s are unique as well. No t o boutiques are the same, whilst they are all enticing mix res of t aditional, moder , classic and the unusual. The boutiques and products are both a combination of classic aristocratic lux r and the t end of moder lifest le.

Penhaligon’s 自维多利亚时代以来就饱获皇家

Penhaligon’s Flagship Store: Covent Garden, 41 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BN

www.penhaligons.com

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Royal Recognition Since the Victorian Era 维多利亚女王时期始获青睐 The Penhaligon’s has ear ed their appreciation om the Royal Family since the Victorian era. By the end of Queen Victoria’s reig , William Penhaligon was appointed barber and perf mer to the Royal Cour . In 1903 the business was g anted a Royal War ant by Queen Alexandra. The unique scent has been the favourite of the Royal Family for over 140 years until today. Penhaligon’s has been appointed by The Duke of Edinburgh in 1956 and The Prince of Wales in 1988 respectively as the Royal War ant holder, for its g eat ser ice and dedication to the Royal Family. The boutiques of Penhaligon’s are unique as well. No t o boutiques are the same, whilst they are all enticing mix res of t aditional, moder , classic and the unusual. The boutiques and products are both a combination of classic aristocratic lux r and the t end of moder lifest le.

Penhaligon’s 自维多利亚时代以来就饱获皇家 青睐。在维多利亚女王任期后期,William Penhaligon 获皇家法院委任为皇家理发师及 调香师。在 1903 年,公司更获亚历山大女 王颁授皇家认证荣誉。Penhaligon’s 的独特 香水自古已是皇家的宠儿,即使直到 140 多 年后的今天。上乘的产品与矢志为王室的服 务, 让 Penhaligon’s 在 1956 年 和 1988 年, 分别从爱丁堡公爵和威尔斯亲王获得皇家认 证。 Penhaligon’s 每间精品店也是独一无二,绝 不存在两间装潢一样的店铺。它的店铺均是 传统、经典与不凡设计的结合,显出不同凡 响。Penhaligon’s 的 店 铺 与 产 品 一 样, 都 是 经典贵族奢华与现代潮流生活方式混合的结 晶。

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Extraordinary Bow Cherishing GARRARD 280th Year

非一般的 蝴蝶结

Granted with one British Royal Warrant, Garrard launches its extraordinary new Bow collection at the 2015 Baselworld Fair, as a celebration for its 280th Anniversary. 获得一个皇家认证的 Garrard,特于 2015 巴塞尔国际钟表珠宝博览会隆 重发布全新 Bow 珍品系列,作为品牌庆贺 280 周年之献礼。

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E

stablished in London since 1735, Garrard is one of the oldest jewellery house in the world. The Bow collection resonates Garrard’s jewellery creations in 1858, when Garrard made a series of 3 diamond bow brooches for Queen Victoria. The immaculate brooches have been adorned by generations of the British Royal family.

The motif of bow incorporates the spirit of celebration. A ribbon is often tied as a memento of an anniversary or marking a special occasion in life, making it perfect for adopting to a jewellery masterpiece to commemorate Garrard’s 280th year. Each elegant piece of the Bow collection is created from a soft flowing ribbon of gold and diamonds, gently tied in a bow to capture a jubilee celebration. The collection is comprised of 14 innovative new designs. It features exquisite diamond creations including an up-to-ear earrings and a double-finger ring. Steep in history and craftsmanship, the new collection introduces 2 remarkable High Jewellery necklaces which embrace the brand’s values.

称 世 上 最 古 老 的 珠 宝 商 Garrard, 于

1735 年始创于伦敦。其刚面世的 Bow

珍品系列,与品牌于 1858 年打造的珠宝系 列有一脉相承之妙。当年 Garrard 为维多利

亚女王铸造了一套 3 件的钻石蝴蝶结胸针, 此杰作遂成为英国王室的传世装饰品。

以蝴蝶结作主题满载庆祝的意味,举凡于周 年庆典或特别纪念仪式上,都会看到蝴蝶结 的踪影。此别具象征意义的图案正好启发 Garrard 创作又一奢华奇珍,采用为庆祝 280 周年纪念更显心思。Bow 系列每件首饰皆以 黄金及钻石造出自然流畅的蝴蝶结,每每留 住喜庆氛围。 Bow 系列包括 14 款别具创意的新设计品, 让人目不暇给,例如以极臻完美的钻石创设 的长身耳环以及连戴两指的别致戒指,并配 以两款巧夺天工的高级珠宝项链,突显品牌 的源远流长与珍贵价值。

Garrard Flagship Boutique: 24 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HT

www.garrard.com

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Meeting the Royal Family Members

跟王室成员碰面 剑 T he Duke and Duchess of Cambridge are ex ecting their second baby in April 2015. One may wonder what are the codes of behaviour when joining the crowd to get a first glimpse of the Royal Baby, or getting invited to a function at which the members of Royal Family are present. Though there are no obligator codes, people are still ex ected to abide by some kind of t aditional for s.

When meeting the Royal Family, men can do a neck bow (bending from the neck or shoulders while briefly lowering their eyes) whereas women can do a small cur sy. Do the same when the Royal leaves the room. On presentation to The Queen, the cor ect for al address is “Your Majest ” and subsequently “Ma’am”. When meeting with other female members of the Royal Family, the first address is conventionally “Your Royal Highness” followed by “Ma’am” in later conversation. When meeting with male members of the Royal Family the same r le applies, with the title used in the first instance being “Your Royal Highness” and subsequently “Sir”. In ter s of the dress codes, members of The Royal Family do not want people to be put to unnecessar ex ense by buying special clothes, hats or gloves. However, there are a few points to be noted. • Hats are not a must though it is entirely acceptable. Hats are not nor ally wor at f nctions aſter 6.30pm; • Gloves are not a must and need not to be white. However, they should not be taken off before the wearer is presented; • Where black tie and long evening dress are called for, cocktail dress, national dress and dark lounge suit are also acceptable.

桥公爵威廉王子和剑桥公爵夫人凯特· 米德尔顿今年 4 月会迎来他们第二个婴

儿。有人或会好奇,加入人群一睹王室宝宝风 采,或获邀参加有王室成员出席的活动时,有 否一套标准行为守则。事实上,坊间并没有一

套强制的规范,但很多人都会跟随传统行礼。 当与王室成员会面时,绅士可作致意式鞠躬 ——只弯曲颈部或肩膀,并稍稍垂下眼帘,女 士则可行一个小型屈膝礼。当王室成员离开 时,施以相同的礼仪。 当 向 女 王 介 绍 自 己 时, 应 称 呼 她 为 "Your Majesty”, 其 后 的 对 话 中 可 改 称 呼 她 为 “Ma’am”。 与 王 室 其 他 女 性 成 员 会 面 时, 第 一 次 打 招 呼 时 应 称 呼 对 方 为 “Your Royal Highness”, 之 后 的 对 话 则 可 改 称 呼 她 为 “Ma’am”。 遇 见 王 室 男 性 成 员 时 可 采 用 相 同 的 礼 仪。 第 一 次 称 呼 对 方 为 “Your Royal Highness”,随后可改称为 “Sir”。 至于衣着方面,王室成员不希望任何人因要购 买特别的衣服、帽子和手套,而付出不必要的 开支。然而,有些要点是需注意的。 • 虽然帽子完全可以接受,但并不是必须的。 一般来说,晚上 6 时半后举行的活动,并 不会穿戴帽子; • 手套不是必须,也不一定要白色。然而,一 旦戴上手套,配戴者不宜在被引介前除下; • 假 如 着 装 要 求 为 正 规 的 black tie 或 long evening dress 晚 礼 服, 则 半 正 式 的 cocktail dress 礼服、民族服饰或西服也可以接受。

©Xinhua

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British Etiquette 英式礼仪

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List of Royal Wedding Etiquette

王室婚礼基本礼仪 April 29 is the Wedding Anniversar of The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Four years ago, the Royal Wedding g ests were given a 22-page list of do’s and don’ts – including how to hold their teacups. It gently inst cts gentlemen and ladies on behaviours om appropriate dress to eye contact to cell phone and Twi er non-usage. Below are some of which could be applied on a more general basis: • Do not be late. Please ar ive at least 20 minutes before the ceremony begins; • Gentlemen must wear a “Mor ing Suit”, “Lounge Suit”, or For al Militar Dress, and must remove top hats while in church; • Ladies must dress appropriately for church, for example covering one’s shoulders and not wearing any hing garish or to gar er a ention; • Guests must acknowledge the Queen’s ar ival with a cur sy or bow as she walks through. Same r le applies as she leaves; • Do not touch the Queen; • Do not shake the Queen’s hand unless she holds her hand out first to shake yours; • Do not speak to the Queen unless she speaks to you first; • Tur off cell phone; • Do not take photos of the Queen as she passes by; • Do not update facebook stat s or t eet; • Hold the champag e glass by the stem; • Liſt the tea cup, not the saucer and hold it ver gently with index finger and thumb, ret r the cup to the saucer aſter ever sip.

4 月 29 日是剑桥公爵威廉王子和剑桥公爵夫 人凯特的周年结婚纪念日。4 年前,英国王 室给参加婚礼的客人派出一份 22 页的礼仪 清单,上面列明什么该做,什么不该做,连 拿茶杯的姿势也有提及。礼仪清单指示绅士 女士的范围,包括服装、眼神接触以至禁用 手机或发推特。以下是部分可应用在较一般 场合的提示: • 不要迟到,在仪式开始前最少 20 分钟要 到达; • 男 士 要 穿 Morning Suit 礼 服、 西 服 或 正 式 军 服, 必 须 在 进 教 堂 前 脱 去 帽 子; • 女士在教堂必须穿着得体,如衣服宜遮盖肩 膀,不宜穿得过分花俏或蓄意惹人注目; • 客人宜在女王到达时作出反应,在女王走 过时行屈膝礼或轻轻鞠躬。当她离开时施 以同样礼仪; • 请勿触摸女王; • 请勿跟女王握手,除非她先主动伸手; • 请勿跟女王说话,除非她主动跟你说话; • 关闭手机; • 不要在女王走过时拍照。请享受那一瞬 间,而不是试图以相片捕捉; • 不要更新脸书状态或发推特; • 以正确姿势拿香槟杯,就是握着杯干; • 喝茶时,举起茶杯而不是茶碟。以食指和 拇指轻轻拿着茶杯,在喝过每一口后,把 茶杯放回茶碟上。

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List of Royal Wedding Etiquette

王室婚礼基本礼仪 April 29 is the Wedding Anniversar of The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Four years ago, the Royal Wedding g ests were given a 22-page list of do’s and don’ts – including how to hold their teacups. It gently inst cts gentlemen and ladies on behaviours om appropriate dress to eye contact to cell phone and Twi er non-usage. Below are some of which could be applied on a more general basis: • Do not be late. Please ar ive at least 20 minutes before the ceremony begins; • Gentlemen must wear a “Mor ing Suit”, “Lounge Suit”, or For al Militar Dress, and must remove top hats while in church; • Ladies must dress appropriately for church, for example covering one’s shoulders and not wearing any hing garish or to gar er a ention; • Guests must acknowledge the Queen’s ar ival with a cur sy or bow as she walks through. Same r le applies as she leaves; • Do not touch the Queen; • Do not shake the Queen’s hand unless she holds her hand out first to shake yours; • Do not speak to the Queen unless she speaks to you first; • Tur off cell phone; • Do not take photos of the Queen as she passes by; • Do not update facebook stat s or t eet; • Hold the champag e glass by the stem; • Liſt the tea cup, not the saucer and hold it ver gently with index finger and thumb, ret r the cup to the saucer aſter ever sip.

4 月 29 日是剑桥公爵威廉王子和夫人凯特的 周年结婚纪念日。4 年前,英国王室给参加 婚礼的客人一份 22 页礼仪清单,上面列明 什么该做,什么不该做,连拿茶杯的姿势也 有提及。礼仪清单指示绅士女士的范围,包 括服装、眼神接触以至禁用手机或发推特。 以下是部分可应用在较一般场合的提示: • 不要迟到,在仪式开始前最少 20 分钟要 到达; • 男 士 要 穿 Morning Suit 礼 服、 西 服 或 正 式 军 服, 必 须 在 进 教 堂 前 脱 去 帽 子; • 女士在教堂必须穿着得体,如衣服宜遮盖肩 膀,不宜穿得过分花俏或蓄意惹人注目; • 客人宜在女王到达时作出反应,在女王走 过时行屈膝礼或轻轻鞠躬。当她离开时施 以同样礼仪; • 请勿触摸女王; • 请勿跟女王握手,除非她先主动伸手; • 请勿跟女王说话,除非她主动跟你说话; • 关闭手机; • 不要在女王走过时拍照。请享受那一瞬 间,而不是试图以相片捕捉; • 不要更新脸书状态或发推特; • 以正确姿势拿香槟杯,就是握着杯干; • 喝茶时,举起茶杯而不是茶碟。以食指和 拇指轻轻拿着茶杯,在喝过每一口后,把 茶杯放回茶碟上。

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The Spiritual Home of Alfred Dunhill 造访登喜路尊贵服务邸宅


Fashion 时装

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unhill, a well-established British Classic highend brand, has created a genuine luxury taste and lifestyle in the men’s fashion world. This century-old brand is a unique attraction in London where Mr Alfred Dunhill started his business empire. Discerning gentlemen will be pampered by the ultimate service in its grandeur Bourdon House in Mayfair – a three-floor luxe world that embodies the heart and soul of the brand. 国权威男士品牌登喜路,百多年来成功缔造独特的奢华风尚,并树立别具品味的生活态

度。创办人 Alfred Dunhill 当年在伦敦建立时尚王国,正因如此,品牌在高尚的梅菲尔区,

设立一个提供奢华服务体验的三层邸宅 Bourdon House,让绅士们透过多方服务细味品牌的精 髓,享受极致生活。

About Bourdon House

The London home of Alfred Dunhill is a restored and refurnished 18th Century Georgian mansion recorded as a Grade II listed building. This magnificent brown brick house was once the abode of the Duke of Westminster and played host to the likes of Coco Chanel. Steeped in the history of British royalty, heritage and fashion aristocracy, the house is transformed into a smart and contemporary clubhouse feel. State of the art technology has been mounted to conform to the modern gentlemen’s entertainment needs. Apart from fine products, the brand offers personalised service such as a traditional barber, luxurious spa and private screening room here. It is not merely a boutique, instead it is a global concept that embraces an ultimate in masculine luxury and retail lifestyle.

集经典与现代的「伦敦之家」 Bourdon House 号称为 Alfred Dunhill 的伦敦 之家。这个家原为 18 世纪的乔治亚式大宅, 属于 2 级历史文物,经过专家和工匠复修 而成,至今仍保留着古色古香的固有韵味。 这座棕色砖屋曾是西敏公爵的住所,Coco Chanel 亦曾留下香踪,为此珍贵的历史遗产 赋予英国皇家色彩。品牌将 Bourdon House 转化为现代会所,配合高科技装置,带来更 深刻的遣兴体验。 除展示品牌产品之最,伦敦之家同时提供专 设服务如传统理发梳洗、奢华的水疗和私家 放映室。种种创意让这个家突破专门店形 式,换来男士追求极至奢华零售与生活方式 的多元新概念。

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Bespoke Your Style

Bourdon House is unique in its provision of a fully bespoke service. Same as Shanghai Home, the inhouse tailors will be there to provide made-tomeasure suit, blazer, jacket, shirt or cufflinks. In this area which reflects dunhill’s commitment to personalisation and exclusivity, the wallpaper is even made of suit material. Alfred Dunhill’s bespoke leather service take personalisation to another level. The specialist works on everything from a made-to-measure wallet to a bespoke leather interior for your car. Every bespoke leather goods will be labelled Alfred Dunhill. Illustrating true expertise in creating the finest luggage, dunhill bags are intricately hand crafted by leather artisans ensuring that each piece has a character all of its own with every stitch, crease and curve applied with exact precision. Fashioned in a French calf hide that has been carefully selected, they will improve with age and become future heirlooms and provenance items.

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SS15 Boston Suede Olive Large Holdall

度身订制的专属感 与 Alfred Dunhill 上 海 之 家 一 样,Bourdon House 提供全面的量身订制服务,驻店的裁 缝为访客订制多样产品,涵盖西装、外套、 夹克、衬衣以至袖扣。这个裁缝室正实践品 牌承诺带来的个人化服务和专属感,更别致 的是,房内壁纸都是用衬衣布料造成。

至于登喜路的订制皮具服务,更见深化品牌 强调的个人化服务。皮具专家能因应客人要 求而造出各类产品,小至钱包,大至车厢座 椅皆可。所有特制品将烙上 Alfred Dunhill

名字,添上尊贵气派。登喜路的行李袋及背 包皆出自皮革工匠的巧手,乃品牌的一大专 业领域,这样确保每个皮包都别具个性, 每一针一线、摺痕和弧度都反映极致的精准 度。品牌精挑法国小牛皮,令袋包倍添时尚 感,而皮具亦会随岁月更添魅力,成为富历 史意味的“传家之宝”。

SS15 dunhill Duke Dark Brown Large Tote

SS15 Alligator Wallet


Bespoke Your Style

Bourdon House is unique in its provision of a fully bespoke service. Same as Shanghai Home, the inhouse tailors will be there to provide made-tomeasure suit, blazer, jacket, shirt or cufflinks. In this area which reflects dunhill’s commitment to personalisation and exclusivity, the wallpaper is even made of suit material. Alfred Dunhill’s bespoke leather service take personalisation to another level. The specialist works on everything from a made-to-measure wallet to a bespoke leather interior for your car. Every bespoke leather goods will be labelled Alfred Dunhill. Illustrating true expertise in creating the finest luggage, dunhill bags are intricately hand crafted by leather artisans ensuring that each piece has a character all of its own with every stitch, crease and curve applied with exact precision. Fashioned in a French calf hide that has been carefully selected, they will improve with age and become future heirlooms and provenance items.

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SS15 Boston Suede Olive Large Holdall

度身订制的专属感 与 Alfred Dunhill 上 海 之 家 一 样,Bourdon House 提供全面的量身订制服务,驻店的裁 缝为访客订制多样产品,涵盖西装、外套、 夹克、衬衣以至袖扣。这个裁缝室正实践品 牌承诺带来的个人化服务和专属感,更别致 的是,房内壁纸都是用衬衣布料造成。

至于登喜路的订制皮具服务,更见深化品牌 强调的个人化服务。皮具专家能因应客人要 求而造出各类产品,小至钱包,大至车厢座 椅皆可。所有特制品将烙上 Alfred Dunhill

名字,添上尊贵气派。登喜路的行李袋及背 包皆出自皮革工匠的巧手,乃品牌的一大专 业领域,这样确保每个皮包都别具个性, 每一针一线、摺痕和弧度都反映极致的精准 度。品牌精挑法国小牛皮,令袋包倍添时尚 感,而皮具亦会随岁月更添魅力,成为富历 史意味的“传家之宝”。

SS15 dunhill Duke Dark Brown Large Tote

SS15 Alligator Wallet

A Cigar World

Connoisseur is all familiar with dunhill’s pipe, cigar and tobacco. In this noble house you will find a stimulating humidor and cigar keep room in the basement. Visitors will be kept busy by viewing the extensive range of cigars. There are some Cuban cigars from the 1950s, a pre-revolutionary crop, and even those belonging to late actor Yul Brynner. The basement also features a wine cellar bar that serves traditional English drinks, snacks and a selection of fine cognacs and whiskies.

Quintessential Treatment

Another highlight of the Bourdon House will be its spa and barber service on the 2nd floor. The traditional barbershop chairs make the grooming experience classic. Enjoy a deluxe wet shave or even a friction scalp massage there. On the other side are the spa treatment rooms which are completed with marble walls and serene setting. There are various package on the menu, such as an executive travellers experience. The treatment incorporates a combination of massages targeting the affected body parts during travelling alongside a detox facial.

雪茄烟斗珍藏 品味人士对品牌出品的著名烟斗、雪茄和烟 草自然不会陌生,在这座贵派老宅的地库, 隐藏著一个大型的雪茄烟草储存室,丰沃的 雪茄味与橡木味令人精神为之一振。一众典 藏计有 1950 年代出产的古巴雪茄,乃革命 前的产品,亦有已故演员 Yul Brynner 的藏 品。地库层同时设有酒窖,调制英式特饮和 小吃,还有精选的高级干邑与威士忌。

尊尚男士仪容护理 Bourdon House 另一特色是提供水疗与传统

理发服务。走上 2 楼,经典的理发椅子映入 眼帘,懂得享受生活的男士大可在此体验蒸 气剃须或头部按摩等贴身服务。 咫尺之遥是水疗疗程室,以大理石外墙和简 洁装修的环境,尽情贴近男士品味。服务项 目单上其中一项专为商务行政人员而设,针 对性的按摩消除长途旅程所带来的疲劳,另 还提供面部排毒护理。

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Current Collection

The ground floor contains dunhill’s current collection, from ready-to-wear and tailored ranges, including clothing, leather accessories, sunglasses and gadgets. Visitors will be impressed by the dunhill Namiki pen, a Japanese Namiki Emperor Maki-e lacquer “Turtle” fountain pen. This prestige pen is made from precious black lacquer, decorated with sprinklings of gold dust and mother-of-pearl Raden, crowned with an 18 carat gold nib, making it an auctioned item of all time. 邸宅当前藏品 Bourdon House 的入口层正是展示最新产品的区域,包罗成衣与 及订制服饰系列,另有品牌著名的皮具、配饰、太阳眼镜及小 配件。值得一提的是,一支价值连城的 dunhill Namiki Emperor Maki-e lacquer “Turtle” 墨水笔,由日本制造,笔干面料是漂亮的 黑漆,用上金粉、珍珠贝母 Raden 等珍贵物料作装饰,加上 18 克拉金造的笔尖,使此笔经常成为拍卖品。

Alfred Dunhill Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street, London, W1K 3DJ

www.dunhill.com/london

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Dior and I 设计总监之台前幕后

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ior and I, an aspiring movie to be released on March 27 in UK, will give viewers a glimpse behind the scenes of the creation of desig er Raf Simons’ debut collection for Christian Dior fashion house. In the Spring of 2012, Simons has got 8 weeks rather than 5 or 6 months to complete Dior’s haute cout re collection. Melding the ever day st ess, lives of dedicated seamst esses in the ateliers (workrooms) and Christian Dior’s legacy, it is a film over helmed with emotions.

The film begins with Raf Simons visiting the Dior’s atelier for the first time. Dior is one of the houses that still keep atelier tailleur (for suiting) and atelier flou(for dresses) in-house. Many seamst esses have been working for Dior for over 40 years. The real environment of the inner workings are ex osed in ont of the viewers. Moreover, the viewers can watch how Simons brings his passion for ar into his work. To recreate the paintings of abst act American painter Sterling Ruby on clothings aſter discovering a mid-cent r weaving technique, Simons had to overcome several challenges, such as fabric suppliers’ lack of ex erience in taking on a print of such scale and catching up the deadline with the assistance of the most experienced craftsmen given the time const aints. During shooting, director Frédéric Tcheng discovered a double Dior through his camera. Even Simons himself shared the same feeling. He said in the film that he star ed to read Dior’s memoirs but could not get through them because of the uncanny parallels bet een Dior’s ex erience and his own. “I had to stop. It was weird.” Dior and I in UK Cinemas from March 27, 2015 www.diorandImovie.com

©CIM Productions

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月 27 日在英国公映的《Dior and I》, 將带观众走进 Dior 设计总监拉夫·西蒙

加盟品牌后准备首场时装秀的幕后现场。时 间回溯至 2012 年春天,西蒙不得不在 8 周, 而不是一般所需的 5 至 6 个月内,完成 Dior 整套高级时装系列。电影描绘了日复日的压 力、裁缝在工作室内专注工作的真实面貌, 以及克里斯汀·迪奥的传承,情感充沛。 影片开首可见西蒙首次踏足 Dior 工作室的 情景。Dior 是仍然保留特设工作室的品牌之 一,聘有西服和裙子的裁缝,当中很多人已 服务 Dior 超过 40 年。片中把他们实际工作 的环境,呈现观众面前。 此外,观众亦可看到西蒙如何把对艺术的热 情,转化为工作灵感。他发现中世纪一种编 织技术后,欲將美国画家 Sterling Ruby 的抽 象画重现在布料上,但他不得不克服一些难 题。如布料供应商缺乏作这么大规模印刷的 经验,以及因为时间紧逼,即使最有经验的 工匠,要赶上交货日期也面临挑战。 在拍摄过程中,导演 Frédéric Tcheng 在镜头 内,发现另一个克里斯汀·迪奥。就连西蒙 本人也察觉这点,他表示,他未能把克里斯 汀·迪奥的回忆录读完,因为迪奥的经验跟 他的过去离奇地相似。“这件事很奇妙,我 不得不暂停阅读。” Raf Simons works on his reinterpretation of a Dior dress.

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©CIM Productions

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Raf Simons works on his reinterpretation of a Dior dress.

ŠCIM Productions

3/18/2015 6:23:00 PM


Dior’s Modern Realm of PRÊT-À-PORTER 现代高级成衣王国

The 2015 Spring/Summer Collection takes in 18th Century French Royal Court attire of both sexes and similarly synthesises and mixes ideas from the uniforms of pilots and astronauts, even school girls and skaters. It also democratises the traditions of haute couture by taking them into the realm of Prêt-à-Porter.

Long burgundy satin linen coat with black knitted top and off white quilted silk bermuda shorts.

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Dior 的 2015 年春夏季系列,以 18 世纪法国宫 廷男女服装为灵感,并加入了飞行员、宇航员, 以至女学生和滑冰选手的制服元素。同时,品 牌借着制作小批量多品种的高档成衣,将高级 订制女装的传统革新,令其大众化。


Raf Simons, as Artistic Director of Christian Dior, showed his interests in the process of finding something extremely modern through something very historical in the last haute couture collection and show, particularly through a juxtaposition of different themes. This year, he wants to go further, making the ready-to-wears look more modern, more dynamic, more real so that they can be available to a wider audience. “The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something very historical; bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical. It is the attitude that matters.” he elaborated.

3 Embroidered pink satin ribbon dress. 4 Black silk and wool dress with off white silk knitted top.

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1 Green cotton jacquard coat and skirt with heather acid yellow knitted cotton top. 2 White cotton pique and black silk jacquard top and white cotton pique pants.

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Dior 艺术总监拉夫·西蒙在上一季的高级时装系列和 T 台秀上, 透过并置不同主题,表现出其对具备深厚历史的事物上,找出极具 现代感元素的兴趣。今年,他进一步把成衣变得更现代化、更有动 感和更真实,让它们更广泛地获观众接受。“最大的挑战是把非常 具历史感的东西引入当代现实态度、并把被视为戏剧化的东西变得 易于接受。态度决定一切。”他阐释。

DIOR Flagship Store: 31 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9NR

T: +44 (0) 207 245 1330

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Welcome To Mulberry Garden 英伦华衣花裳

T

he British luxury brand Mulberry takes inspiration from the classic English country garden. The SS15 fashion and accessory collection has budded and blossomed into fancy floral prettiness.

Spring / Summer 2015 Collection

The SS15 Mulberry girl will find herself looking chic for whatever the British Spring weather will be. With a colour palette taking inspiration from cornflowers, the latest collection is rich in details – fine silk, laser-cut leather, hand-sketched flower prints, monochromatic printed lace and luxurious lurex.

国奢华品牌 Mulberry 从传统英式园林

取得灵感,在 2015 春夏时装及配饰系

列展现一片精致而时尚的花花世界。

2015 春夏新装 英 国 天 气 或 许 变 幻 无 常,Mulberry 从 布 料 及剪裁等方面,让成衣显得既时尚又不失功 能性,女士们穿上春装,无论阴晴都自在舒 畅。整个系列带来花的七彩美态,又以蓝色 的矢车菊为主色调,配上丰富的细节——优 质丝绸,激光剪裁皮料,具手绘感的花纹, 单色蕾丝与及高贵的纱线。

The SS15 reversible Delphie Bag comes with a shoulder strap in either leather or a new flat chain design.

The celebrated Cara Delevingne Bag in oak natural leather

The Kensington Bag in mushroom & cream lamb nappa

The Mulberry Garden Wellie featuring the wild flower design, woven into a rich metallic jacquard

Mulberry Boutique: 50 New Bond Street, London W1S 1BJ

www.mulberry.com

Silk Square in white wild garden trellis print

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Welcome To Mulberry Garden 英伦华衣花裳

T

he British luxury brand Mulberry takes inspiration from the classic English country garden. The SS15 fashion and accessory collection has budded and blossomed into fancy floral prettiness.

Spring / Summer 2015 Collection

The SS15 Mulberry girl will find herself looking chic for whatever the British Spring weather will be. With a colour palette taking inspiration from cornflowers, the latest collection is rich in details – fine silk, laser-cut leather, hand-sketched flower prints, monochromatic printed lace and luxurious lurex.

国奢华品牌 Mulberry 从传统英式园林

取得灵感,在 2015 春夏时装及配饰系

列展现一片精致而时尚的花花世界。

2015 春夏新装 英 国 天 气 或 许 变 幻 无 常,Mulberry 从 布 料 及剪裁等方面,让成衣显得既时尚又不失功 能性,女士们穿上春装,无论阴晴都自在舒 畅。整个系列带来花的七彩美态,又以蓝色 的矢车菊为主色调,配上丰富的细节——优 质丝绸,激光剪裁皮料,具手绘感的花纹, 单色蕾丝与及高贵的纱线。

The SS15 reversible Delphie Bag comes with a shoulder strap in either leather or a new flat chain design.

The celebrated Cara Delevingne Bag in oak natural leather

The Kensington Bag in mushroom & cream lamb nappa

The Mulberry Garden Wellie featuring the wild flower design, woven into a rich metallic jacquard

Mulberry Boutique: 50 New Bond Street, London W1S 1BJ

www.mulberry.com

Silk Square in white wild garden trellis print

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Amble Along The Flower Carpet 英国花季寻香

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Seasonal Attractions 春季好去处

he pleasant flower scent in the air and the vivid scene sig if the advent of the prime Spring season. In such a vibrant capital as London, there are so many locations for you to enjoy the visual and olfactor feast.

飘散四方的怡人香气,多姿多彩的风景,自 然界复苏的崭新面貌,在在宣告着春临大 地。遍地花开的英国,尽皆视觉与味觉盛宴, 单是伦敦便满布赏花胜地。

The Palm House in Kew Gardens : The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is a UNESCO World Heritage. 邱园正式名称为皇家植物园,是联合国世界文化遗产。 图为全球最闻名温室之一 “棕榈室” 。 ©RBG KEW

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Seasonal Attractions 春季导赏

he pleasant flower scent in the air and the vivid scene sig if the advent of the prime Spring season. In such a vibrant capital as London, there are so many locations for you to enjoy the visual and olfactor feast.

飘散四方的怡人香气,多姿多彩的风景,自 然界复苏的崭新面貌,在在宣告着春临大 地。遍地花开的英国,尽皆视觉与味觉盛宴, 单是伦敦便满布赏花胜地。

The Palm House in Kew Gardens : The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is a UNESCO World Heritage. 邱园正式名称为皇家植物园,是联合国世界文化遗产。 图为全球最闻名温室之一 “棕榈室” 。 ©RBG KEW

3/19/2015 12:01:20 PM


For an all-round experience of Spring blossom in London, Kew, the Royal Botanic Garden is known to be a must visit. Located in South West London, this UNESCO site is “dressed up” throughout Spring. You may explore the gardens on your own, or you may join a free guided tour “Spring Spectacular Walk”. The tour will highlight the best of the seasonal blossom including the well known and lesser known species.

The Cherry Walk in Kew Gardens

Don’t miss the astonishing Cherry Walk. It runs from the Rose Garden behind the Palm House to King William’s Temple, and then on to the Temperate House. Other highlights include 250 types of magnolias across the gardens, the sunny glow of daffodils around the Temple of Aeolus, and later in Spring thousands of deep blue, starryflowered Scilla forbesii (a.k.a. glory of the snow) carpet the lawns by White Peaks.

要感受花海的魅力,当然不可以错过著名的 皇家植物园——邱园。这个联合国世界文化 遗产坐落首都伦敦西南部,你可选择自行畅 游园林各处感受新生颂,亦可参与大会安排 的免费导赏团——Spring Spectacular Walk, 介绍散布邱园各角落的知名春花,亦教人认 识名不经传的品种。

邱园樱花之旅 很多人在春天来邱园便是为了赏樱花。一片 娇嫩粉红的樱花树,由棕榈室后的玫瑰园到 King William’s Temple一直延伸至温带植物 室。其他盛放的花种包括分布园林四周、多 达250种的木兰花,集中于Temple of Aeolus、 鲜黄璀灿的水仙,还有晚春时开满White Peaks草坡、形成一片花海的蓝色雪光花。

Spring Spectacular Walk Date 日期 : 1.3.2015 – 30.4.2015 Time 时间 : 12pm – 1pm No booking required. Tours start and finish at the Guides Desk, Victoria Plaza. 毋须预约,每天由维多利亚广场接待处启程及结束。

The flower carpet in front of Kew Palace. 邱园皇宫前的花海。 ©RBG KEW


The Avenue Gardens in Regent’s Park. 摄政公园内的Avenue Gardens。

A Sea Of Roses In City Centre

市中心大型玫瑰园

Stroll Around London Parks

伦敦公园踏青

The Chelsea Flower Show might be known to you but surprise may appear this year with the new show organised by Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). The brand new RHS London Rose Show is a festival for celebrating England’s favourite flower and championing specialist rose growers and florists. While enjoying a wide range of stunning rose displays visitors can also gain expert advice on how to grow and take care of roses.The show also sells rose-related products, rose-based food and drink. Simply enter into one of London’s Royal Parks, the flowers are magnificent enough. Last year, the cherry blossom in St James’s Park flowered in mid-March whereas Regent’s Park and Kensington Gardens bloom in early April.

The venerable blogger Fran Pickering picks Regent’s Park as the best to see cherry blossom. Here is the insider’s secret: find a beautiful grove of pinkblossomed trees at the south end of Avenue Gardens; spot some white cherry trees in the Community Wildlife Garden near York Bridge, plus more trees along the southern edge of Queen Mary’s Garden and Jubilee Gate; last but not least, an avenue of cherry trees on either side of Chester Road. RHS London Rose Show Date 日期:29.5.2015 – 30.5.2015 Venue 地点: RHS Horticultural Halls Website 网页:www.rhs.org.uk

一年一度的园艺盛事Chelsea Flower Show已 成为全城期待的赏花节目,而主办机构Royal Horticultural Society (RHS)今年来点新意,首 次举办RHS London Rose Show。为期两天的 节目倾尽各类玫瑰,又请来玫瑰种植专家及 花商,分享种植及护花秘诀。园艺以外,场 内将展览与玫瑰相关的产品,亦让来宾一尝 用玫瑰做的饮品与美食。

漫游伦敦的皇家公园一向是赏心乐事,尤其 在春天,赏花是一蹴即就之事。去年早于3月 中旬,圣詹姆士公园便樱花盛开,摄政公园 及肯辛顿公园等则在4月初迎来花潮。 本地知名博客Fran Pickering推荐摄政公园为 最佳的赏花胜地。漂亮的摄政公园有数个赏 花热点,Avenue Gardens南端则有一个粉红 樱花的小树林,要找白色樱花可以走到York Bridge附近的Community Wildlife Garden,此 外,在Queen Mary’s Garden及Jubilee Gate亦到 处樱踪,最盛大的樱花群则可瞄准Chester Road两旁。

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Premier League Fever 迎接英超季末狂热

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he Barclays Premier Leag e is hailed as the best football leag e in the world. Reaching its final match days in May, you will ex ect a passionate football fandom ever. As you are now in England, we believe that you have already reser ed your tickets prior to the season. Please ar ive early so that you will not miss the pre-match excitement. Stadiums open around 90 minutes while players om both teams come out for drills about 45 minutes before kick-off. Then, be ready to soak up the g eat at osphere when teams enter the pitch to their own individual songs!

If you could not get the limited number of tickets, join a stadium tour on a matchday. Although you may crave for the “mecca” Old Trafford Stadium, it needs to t avel a long way to Manchester. In fact, there are 6 Premier Leag e Clubs in London including Chelsea FC for you to choose. This mostex ected champion in this season offers Platinum tour for some VIP ex erience. Spend some time in the Fulham area aſter the tour and sing the song along with the crowded Chelsea fans! You may also join the locals to watch live broadcasts in an English pub for an authentic touch of football fandom. Tr your luck to book a seat plus accommodation combo online via Thomas Cook Spor , the official partner of the big football clubs, tickets may still be available. Other ise, secure your place by joining your favourite club’s membership, be a special one watching the match in exquisite cabin!

格兰超级足球联赛风靡全世界球迷,

亲临英国观赏足球赛事是很多游客的

毕生梦想。随着 5 月赛事进入尾声,全城将 掀起更盛大的热潮。 若你此时身在英国,想必已在季初订票,甚 或已加入球会的尊贵会籍,现便可安心进 场。事实上,感受赛前气氛是必不可缺一 环。球场一般会于赛事 90 分钟前开放入场, 而 45 分钟前球员进行热身,是把握拍照的 时机,当然,重头戏将落在球员随着会歌徐 徐进场的一刻。 假如未能顺利订票,英超狂热体验依然垂手 可得。挑选赛事举行当天到访球场,或参观 有趣的展览,或报名参加导赏团。最著名的 曼联主场老特拉福德球场 (Old Trafford) 虽 然是首选,但需要远赴曼彻斯特。其实,伦 敦坐拥 6 大英超球会场馆,其中更有本季榜 首大热车路士,你可预订 Platinum tour,以 贵宾身份参观其 Stamford Bridge 球场。参 观完毕后,顺道参观所在的高尚富林区,你 将可见识到车路士球迷有多疯狂。 另一赏心之选是到地道的英式酒吧观赛,感 受一下一室的喝采声。当然,你依然可以尝 试在到步后网上购票进场观赛,Thomas Cook Sport 是多间球会的特许经营公 司,提供门票加住宿套票。不然的 话,由现在起已可到各球会网站购 买下一季赛事的门劵,不妨加入

an

成为尊贵会员,下年便可安坐豪华 的贵宾室观赛,一圆英超梦。

©Reuters

©Reuters

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Dinner by Heston Blumenthal: A Taste of British Traditional Cuisine

在 21 世纪品尝英式传统佳肴

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wo Michelin stars restaurant Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is famed for creating all new dishes based on historical recipes. For example, the Signature Meat Fruit, which dated from the 13th century, was inspired by the aristocracy who loved to trick their dinner guests by disguising meat as pieces of fruit. To collect references for developing ideas, the restaurant even has an historical researcher to gather old recipes and stories of banquets.

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Interior of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal ©Mandarin Oriental London

其林二星餐厅 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal 闻名之处,在于其创作所有新菜式时,往往 以传统食谱作依据。它们其中一道招牌菜水果肉, 可以追溯至 13 世纪,当时有贵族喜欢戏弄晚宴宾 客,把肉类假装成水果。为了搜集资料制订新菜 式,餐厅还特设一名历史资料搜集员,搜罗古老 食谱和筵席故事。


on

al

往 , 宾 菜 老

Fine Dining 精巧美膳

Sig at re Dishes

Savoury Porridge Roast Cod Palette©Ashley Palmer-Watts

The Sig at re Dishes include the Meat Fr it , which is chicken liver parfait in mandarin jelly, and the Tipsy Cake, a baked to order brandy and sauter es soaked brioche. Both are so popular and have become t o of the restaurant’s most popular dishes.

招牌菜式 餐厅的招牌菜式,包括水果肉 ( 在柑橘果冻 酿鸡肝冻糕 ),以及浸泡了白兰地的葡萄酒 蛋糕。这两道菜深受食客追捧,甚至成为餐 厅其中最受欢迎菜式。

Meat Fruit©Ashley Palmer-Watts

Spring Menu

“With the change in the weather and the increase in daylight, new produce will start to filter through and certain dishes will be amended or replaced with what is in season. Dishes will come and go to reflect the seasonal ingredients available for that time of year and of course our seafood and ingredients like morels, wild garlic and English asparagus will come through.” Executive Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts explained. Roast Turbot & Cockle Ketchup©Ashley Palmer-Watts

春季餐单 行政总厨 Ashley Palmer-Watts 阐释,“随着 天气变化和日照时间延长,我们开始精挑出 炉的农产品,为当季菜单调整或变换菜式。 菜式转变以合乎时令为主,当然少不了海 鲜,而羊肚菌、野生大蒜和英国产芦笋等食 材,亦会加进餐单”。

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Summer Tart ©Ashley Palmer-Watts

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Ashley Palmer-Watts Executive Chef

Heston Blumenthal

©Alisa Connan

“We want our guests to relax, enjoy each other’s company and be taken on a bit of an historic journey at the same time.” Ashley Palmer-Watts Executive Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts is proud of having such a rich culinary heritage in the UK that had for some part been forgotten. “So much research and development goes into everything at Dinner – the design, the food and the wine – but our aim has always been to ensure the environment and even the dishes on the menus (as unfamiliar as some sound) are identifiable and approachable when they arrive at the table. We want our guests to relax, enjoy each other’s company and be taken on a bit of an historic journey at the same time.” Dinner by Heston Blumenthal adopts the British historical interior design to match with the dishes. One example would be the spit in the kitchen. It

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is operated by a unique pulley system which is modelled after a version used by the Royal Court and rotates the spit over an open fire. Pineapples which accompany the Tipsy Cake are roasted on it.

Rich natural materials such as wood, leather and iron – historical elements at the root of British style – are utilised in modern ways. For the private dining room, it features traditional wood beamed ceiling and rust coloured leather-clad walls, revealing small recesses of the underlying old brick wall.

As Palmer-Watts claimed, “consistency of the whole operation is the main factor of their success.”

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA T: +44(0)20 7201 3833


“我们希望客人感到恍如踏上历史旅程的同 时,能够放松身心,享受一起进餐的过程。” 行政总厨 Ashley Palmer-Watts 行 政 总 厨 Ashley Palmer-Watts 对 于 英 国 有 这么丰富的美食传统感到自豪,可惜当中有 部分已被遗忘。“餐厅从设计、食物以至餐 酒方面,都投放了大量精力去搜集资料和研 发。但我们的目标,一直是确保整个环境, 甚至餐单的菜式(有些已不为大众认识) 送抵餐桌时,能被认出和接受。我们希望客 人感到恍如踏上历史旅程的同时,能放松身 心,享受彼此相伴。” Dinner by Heston Blumenthal 特地采纳英国 传统的室内设计,跟菜肴配合得天衣无缝。 其中一个例子就是厨房的烤肉叉。那是依照

王室宫廷一个用过的型号为蓝本,改装后由 独特的滑轮系统操作,并会在明火上旋转。 配搭葡萄酒蛋糕的菠萝,就是以这个烤肉叉 烤制而成。 丰富的天然材料,如木材,皮革和铁等英式 风格根源之历史元素,都以现代方式呈现在 装修上。在私家餐房内,抬头可见传统的木 横梁天花板,四周的铁锈色皮革包墙上,还 可隐约见到后面老砖墙的小凹槽。 整 间 餐 厅 的 经 营 多 年 如 一, 诚 如 PalmerWatts 所说,这就是他们成功的主要因素。

Private dining room ©Mandarin Oriental London

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Behind the name Hibiscus

餐厅得名由来

“My parents used to have these plants back home. There are lots of different varieties, lots of different colours – and you can cook with them!” Claude Bosi “我的父母经常带这些植物(洛神 花)回家。它们有很多不同品种, 以及各种不同颜色,你可以用它 们来烹调食物!”

Claude Bosi

Claude Bosi

Hibiscus : 2 Michelin Starred Chef Reveals Secrets to Success

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laude Bosi, the Chef of two Michelin stars restaurant Hibiscus, told us in the interview, he would design his Spring menu in accordance with the best produce he can get from the market suppliers every day. Dishes may include Scallops & Pork Pie Sauce, Cod a la Grenobloise, Chocolate Millefeuille – or one of his vegetable desserts! Having been awarded two Michelin stars for consecutive 12 years, Bosi’s keys to success are working hard and taking every day as a new beginning. He always wants to indulge his guests with something relaxed, sophisticated and very professional. “We will keep doing what we are doing and work to the highest level we can.” he explained.

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Bosi decided to pursue his career in catering when he was 15 years old as cooking has always been his passion. “I was practically born in the kitchen because my parents had a restaurant in Lyon where I grew up. They always taught me never to take customers for granted. ” he said.


Confit Glenarm Salmon, New Season Peas, Wasabi & Baby Gem

©Valerie Paquette

Roast Duck Confit, Tardivo Beetroot, Smoked Eel Juice

米其林二星大厨 披露成功秘诀 其林二星餐厅 Hibiscus 总厨 Claude Bosi 接

受专访时披露,他的春季餐单乃视乎每天从

市场供应商所能获得的最佳产品设计而成。推出 的菜肴或包括带子和猪肉馅饼酱、奶油香煎鳕鱼、 巧克力千层酥,甚或是他的蔬菜甜品之一!

Grilled Veal Sweetbreads studded with Black Garlic, Italian Leaf Salad, Garlic & Lemon Purée, Gremolata Dressing

连续 12 年获授米其林二星,Bosi 称成功要素是勤 奋工作,并把每天当作新的开始。他希望客人享 受到轻松、精致和专业的用膳体验。“继续做目 前所做的,并努力达到最高水平”是他经营之道。 Bosi 热爱烹调,15 岁便立志投身餐饮业,“我在 父母于里昂经营的餐馆中成长,犹如在厨房出生。 他们经常教导我,不能把顾客视为理所当然”。

Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London W1S 2PA T: +44 (0) 20 7629 2999

Spring Onion & Lime Ravioli, Broad Bean and Mint

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A Dram Fine Whisky Month 威士忌月 : 喝一口生命之水

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et ready to soak in the unparalleled vibe in Scotland where they pay homage to their national drink, the distinctive Scotch Whisky, as they call it “the Water of Life”. What makes Scotland’s festivals unmissable is its breathtaking scenery, a blend with traditional culture and meeting with whisky ambassadors in the secret distilleries.

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士忌已被公认为苏格兰的最佳代名

词,当地人称誉此酒为“生命之水”,

乃国民之酒。访客可在如画景致之中感受深 厚而独特的当地文化,更可在平常不开放予 公众的酿酒厂,与首屈一指的“威士忌大使” 交流学习,私探苏格兰威士忌的成功诀窍。


Tourist Attractions 主题旅游

Scotland has 5 distinct whisky regions, from which you will find different types of whisky including single malts, blended whisky and grain whisky. The Speyside region is home to over 50 distilleries where you can find the best-selling single malt whiskies: The Glenlivet, Glenfiddich and Macallan. To celebrate the Whisky Month, the Spirit of Speyside Festival is the biggest amongst others. It is now in its 16th year which will bring over 400 events. One will expect a diverse range of whisky events in May, from connoisseur tours, nosing and tasting of the top-notch brands of whiskies, to

A chance to taste the whisky awards winners. 一次过品尝得奖崴威士忌名酒。

山明水秀的苏格兰共分为 5 个威士忌产 区,出土不计其数的特色美酒,如单一纯 麦威士忌、调和式威士忌和谷物威士忌。 而斯佩赛德区是超过 50 个酿酒厂的所在 地,是全苏格兰酿酒厂最密集的地方。这 里孕育多个畅销全球的单一纯麦威士忌品 牌,包括格兰威特、格兰菲迪和麦卡伦。 “威士忌月”带给各地旅客的当然不只是 主 题 导 赏 团、 轻 嗅 浅 尝 世 界 一 流 的 威 士 忌,或威士忌与美食配搭体验,苏格兰带 来的是更全面的体验。在众多苏格兰威士 忌 节 中, 以 The Spirit of Speyside Festival 规模最大。这个节日已踏入第 16 个年头,

whisky-pairing gourmet experience. The “6 Pillars Tour” and the “Glenlivet Smugglers’ Peat Reek and Pot Still Tour” are held throughout the festival. Other highlights include “The Art of Whisky Making at Ballindalloch Distillery” on May 1, travelling on “The Whisky Line” train and visiting the Glenfiddich Distillery on May 2, the whisky auction on May 3, and “The Speyside Whisky Tour in a Range Rover Vogue” on May 3 & 4. Some programmes are free whereas the rest are of limited tickets. Remember to check and book online before you go.

Meet Alan Winchester, the famous Glenlivet Master Distiller, in the festival. 在节庆中可向格兰威特著名酿酒大师 Alan Winchester 讨教。

今年更带来史上最丰富共逾 400 项节目。 整个节庆中每天都设有“六大支柱”的品 酒导赏,及格兰利威别出心裁的 Smugglers’ Peat Reek and Pot Still Tour,重头节目则有 在 Ballindalloch 酒厂举行的“威士忌酿造 艺術”之旅 (5 月 1 日 ) ,乘坐“威士忌号” 火车游览景区,同时参观格兰菲迪的酿酒 厂 (5 月 2 日 );威士忌拍卖会 (5 月 3 日 ); 及乘坐路虎揽胜 Vogue 系汽车展开威士忌

之旅 (5 月 3 及 4 日 )。部分节目为免费, 其余须购票入场,记得浏览官网及查询。 Date 日期:30.4.2015 – 4.5.2015 Venue 地点:Various Venues, Speyside, Morayshire, IV30 1LJ Website 网页:www.spiritofspeyside.com

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The Aladdin’s Cave of Whisky 全球最齐全的威士忌库

T

his year’s World Whisky Day falls on May 16, and the whole month will be crammed by celebrations and festivals for whisky. Take your first step for an authentic Scotch Whisky tasting offered by The Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh. Either the luxury Platinum Tour or the Morning Masterclass are worth considering to join. During the Whisky Month, visitors will be in for a treat, with whisky cocktails, free distillery samplings, and a chance to taste whisky in the venue’s brand new event spaces, complete with specially commissioned whisky-inspired artwork. The jewel in the crown of the centre is definitely the Diageo Claive Vidiz Scotch Whisky Collection, the world’s largest collection of Scotch Whisky. Hold your breath in front of 3,500 bottles of limited edition or rare collection of whiskies! Venue 地点:354 Castlehill, Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 2NE Website 网页:www.scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk

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5

月的苏格兰将会飘扬著一阵阵的纯麦香 味,因为这个月被定为“威士忌月”,

而 5 月 16 日更是“世界威士忌日”,一连 串庆祝活动和特色节目已准备就绪。 位于苏格兰首都爱丁堡的 The Scotch Whisky Experience 展馆,每天举办导赏团和大师级

的品酒体验工作坊,其中 Platinum Tour 与 Morning Masterclass 专为热衷威士忌的访客

而设。“威士忌月”期间,将有新展场开幕, 访客可身处由威士忌启发的艺术布置中,额 外免费品尝威士忌鸡尾酒并获赠精致酒版。 场 馆 的 最 大 亮 点 毫 无 疑 问 是 Diageo Claive Vidiz Scotch Whisky Collection。 这 个 展 厅

收藏 3,500 瓶限量版甚至绝版的苏格兰威士 忌,是全世界最大的同类型珍藏,堪称“威 士忌迷的朝圣地”。


The Macallan 1824 Masters Series 麦卡伦大师级酒系

O

ne of the world’s most coveted luxury single malt whisky, The Macallan, has unveiled The 1824 Masters Series early this year. The enticing series features 2 stunning decanters, Reflexion and No. 6, incorporating the finest single malt, 100% sherry seasoned in oak casks. Reflexion is marvellous both in style and stature. The decanter is sculpted through the inspiration of The Macallan’s iconic triangular shape. Its angular facets each reflects the light to showcase the deep red mahogany hue of the whisky within. No. 6 is a flawless crystal decanter from the extraordinary craftsmanship of Lalique. Its triangular facets represent the 6 Pillars which is the brand’s philosophy. 卡 伦 年 初 发 布 又 一 经 典 佳 作 1824

Masters Series,为其高端单一纯麦

威士忌家族倍添魅力,令人垂涎。伴随此 大师级系列面世的还有两个特别版本的醒 酒器,分别名为 Reflexion 及 No. 6,盛载 最优越的单一麦芽、出自橡木酒桶的 100% 雪利桶陈年威士忌。 Reflexion 的 外 型 风 格 和 品 位 先 声 夺 人, 麦卡伦标志性的三角形状正正反映在瓶身 上。瓶子的切割面巧妙地反射光线,突显 威士忌独特的桃花木深红色。No. 6 璀灿 的水晶瓶子则出自 Lalique 的精美工艺,

其三角形切面象征着品牌核心的“6 大支 柱”理念。


UK Film Scenes Visit 访游英国电影场景 Last year, a total of 999 televisions and films were shot in the English regions. Some of these locations are open to visitors too. 去年,共有 999 部电视和电影于英国各个地区拍摄,部分地点还欢迎游客参观。

©Walt Disney Studios

Into the Woods : Dover Castle

The magic of Disney’s fairytale blockbuster, Into the Woods, happened in a fantasy land of ancient woods, castles and villages. The film sees stars like Johnny Depp and Meryl Streep sing their way through the intertwined stories of some of our bestloved fairytale characters. The film was shot across South East of England including Buckinghamshire, Surrey, Berkshire, Hertfordshire and Kent from where director Rob Marshall and his team found the scenery breathtaking and the backdrops amazing . Anna Kendrick, who plays Cinderella and marries her prince at Dover Castle in Kent, exclaimed: “We shot at Dover Castle which was amazing. It was so romantic.” As the oldest fort in England, Dover Castle has also appeared in other blockbuster movies such as Johnny English starring Rowan Atkinson.

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©Anacleto Rapping / A.M.P.A.S.

《魔法黑森林》: 肯特多佛城堡 迪士尼童话大片《魔法黑森林》的魔法,发 生于集古老森林、城堡和村庄于一身的梦幻 国度内。著名影星如强尼·戴普和梅莉·史 翠普等,以歌唱形式穿梭于这个备受喜爱的 童话人物交织的故事内。惊叹于英格兰东南 部壮观的风景和优美背景,导演罗伯·马歇 尔和他的团队选择在白金汉郡、萨里、伯克 希尔郡、赫特福德郡和肯特拍摄电影。 灰姑娘跟她的王子在肯特的多佛城堡结婚, 扮演灰姑娘的安娜坎卓克说:“我们于景 色令人惊叹的多佛城堡拍摄,过程十分浪 漫。”作为英格兰最古老的要塞,多佛城堡 也曾出现在其他电影内,如罗温·艾金森主 演的《憨豆特工》。 Venue 地点:Castle Hill, Dover, Kent CT16 1HU


The Imitation Game: Bletchey Park 《模仿游戏》: 布莱切利公园 A fact based historic thriller, The Imitation Game, is about how a British mathematician Alan Turing tries to crack the enigma code with his fellow mathematicians during World War II. Some key scenes were filmed at the Bletchley Park, where the history actually happened.

Graham Moore poses backstage with the Oscar® for Adapted screenplay. © ShaunArmstrong/mubsta.com

At the start of the War in September 1939, a small team of codebreakers showed up at Bletchey Park to begin their war-winning work in earnest. Benedict Cumberbatch starring Alan Turing said, “To work where these people breathed, lived, loved, worked, struggled, kept secrets, were quietly, stoically heroic, was overwhelming. It’s incredibly important that it’s open to the public, because this is our history.” An exhibition about the making of “The Imitation Game” is now open at Bletchley Park. It is situated at the very room where the bar scenes were filmed. Scenes filmed here include the defining moment when Joan Clarke, played by Keira Knightley, muses “Who ever loved ordinary?” Exhibition Date Until 展览直至:1.11.2015 Venue 地点:The Mansion, Bletchley Park, Sherwood Drive, Bletchley, Milton Keynes MK3 6EB

© Todd Wawrychuk / A.M.P.A.S.

根据事实改编的历史剧情片《模仿游戏》, 是关于英国数学家阿兰·图灵,在二战期间 与共事的数学家,试图破解德军恩尼格玛密 码机密码的故事。一些在布莱切利公园拍摄 的关键场面,也正是该段历史发生的地方。 在 1939 年 9 月战争开始时,一小队密码破 译人员在布莱切利公园出现,认真展开为战 争胜利奠下基础的工作。主演艾伦·图灵的 本尼迪克特·康伯巴奇说:“能于这儿—— 寂静、坚忍的英雄式呼吸、生活、爱与被爱、 工作、挣扎、保守秘密的地方工作,十分 激动。布莱切利公园对外开放给公众十分 重要,因为这是我们的历史。”布莱 切利公园正举办《模仿游戏》制作花 絮展览,展地正好是拍摄电影酒吧场 景之处。展品包括戏中的道具、服 装,让人一窥幕后制作的细致场景。 Benedict Cumberbatch (right) was nominated for Oscar 2015 Actor in a Leading Role. © Richard Harbaugh / A.M.P.A.S.

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Art and Culture 艺术与文化

伦敦工艺周 5 月首度登场

London Craft Week to Debut in May

“L

ondon has long had a Fashion Week and a Design Festival. From 2015, it will have the equivalent for the craft sector: London Craft Week, featuring the artistic flair, painstaking skills and raw talent of exceptional craftsmanship and, as a result, attracting an ever-increasing quality and volume of collectors and customers.” ~ Guy Salter, Founder & Chairman of London Craft Week London Craft Week, a brand new intiative which celebrates fine craftsmanship across the city, will reveal hidden workshops and less known makers alongside celebrated galleries and luxury brands through a journeyof-discovery programme. It will also shine the spotlight on centuries-old, highly specialised skills and exciting new talent.

敦一直以举办时装周和设计节

伦敦工艺周是一个庆祝全城精细工艺的新概

見著。从 2015 年起,工艺一环

念。一系列的深度探索节目,除了呈现一些知

亦会有相类的节庆——伦敦工艺周。工艺

名画廊和豪华品牌,亦会揭示不为人知的工作

周聚焦了艺术天赋、细致的技巧、非凡工

室或鲜为人知的制造商。无论是已有百年历史

艺的才华,预料將可吸引质量和数量不断

的高度专业技能,抑或令人振奋的新进人才,

提升的收藏家和顾客。”

都会在聚光灯下闪耀。

伦敦工艺周创办人及主席 Guy Salter

参观者能亲身参与不同的制作过程,了解物 件是如何制造出来,以及受追捧的原因。此 外,主办方亦设立了一个户外工艺展区,作 为演讲、晚宴和特别活动的中心。合作伙伴 活动包括维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆的 “What is Luxury?” 展 览 和 在 Fortnum & Mason 举 办 的 “Walpole Crafted Exhibition” 等。

江诗丹顿演示制表过程

Visitors will be able to engage first hand with the process of making in a variety of ways to better understand the context of how things are made and why they are so sought after. An outdoor craft pavilion will be constructed as a hub for lectures, dinners and special events. Partner activities include “What is Luxury?” at the V&A, Walpole Crafted Exhibition at Fortnum & Mason etc.

创始合伙品牌江诗丹顿,自 1755 年以来一直投

Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin

的难得机会,也可亲自下场试试自己的技术。

Founding partner, Vacheron Constantin, has been investing in the perpetuation of manual skills and recognising the value of apprenticeships since 1755. Today, Vacheron Constantin regularly works with over 20 artistic crafts, some are centuries old and on the brink of dying out while others are innovative interpretations of traditional methods. Lapidary, glyptic, enamelling and marquetry are a few of the skills currently used at Vacheron Constantin. During London Craft Week, Vacheron Constantin’s London Boutique will have live demonstrations of watchmaking and hand-engraving. Visitors are offered a rare chance to see one of the Maison’s in-house artisans at work. They are also welcome to try their skills.

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“伦

入大量心血,期延续手工技艺和认可师徒制度 的价值。今天,江诗丹顿定期采用超过 20 种 艺术工艺,当中一些已有数百年历史并濒临失 传,有些则是传统方法的革新诠释。宝石工艺、 雕刻、上釉和镶嵌,是江诗丹顿目前使用其中 数个技能。在伦敦工艺周举行期间,江诗丹 顿在伦敦精品店将现场演示制表工艺和手工雕 刻。游客除了获得一个参观内部工匠工作过程

London Craft Week Date 日期:6.5.2015-10.5.2015 Website 网页:www.londoncraftweek.com/programme Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin Date 日期:7.5.2015-9.5.2015 Venue 地点:Vacheron Constantin, 37 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AB

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Art and Culture 艺术与文化

伦敦工艺周 5 月首度登场 “伦

敦一直以举办时装周和设计节

伦敦工艺周是一个庆祝全城精细工艺的新概

見著。从 2015 年起,工艺一环

念。一系列的深度探索节目,除了呈现一些知

亦会有相类的节庆——伦敦工艺周。工艺

名画廊和豪华品牌,亦会揭示不为人知的工作

周聚焦了艺术天赋、细致的技巧、非凡工

室或鲜为人知的制造商。无论是已有百年历史

艺的才华,预料將可吸引质量和数量不断

的高度专业技能,抑或令人振奋的新进人才,

提升的收藏家和顾客。”

都会在聚光灯下闪耀。

伦敦工艺周创办人及主席 Guy Salter

参观者能亲身参与不同的制作过程,了解物 件是如何制造出来,以及受追捧的原因。此 外,主办方亦设立了一个户外工艺展区,作 为演讲、晚宴和特别活动的中心。合作伙伴 活动包括维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆的 “What is Luxury?” 展 览 和 在 Fortnum & Mason 举 办 的 “Walpole Crafted Exhibition” 等。

江诗丹顿演示制表过程 创始合伙品牌江诗丹顿,自 1755 年以来一直投 入大量心血,期延续手工技艺和认可师徒制度 的价值。今天,江诗丹顿定期采用超过 20 种 艺术工艺,当中一些已有数百年历史并濒临失 传,有些则是传统方法的革新诠释。宝石工艺、 雕刻、上釉和镶嵌,是江诗丹顿目前使用其中 数个技能。在伦敦工艺周举行期间,江诗丹 顿在伦敦精品店将现场演示制表工艺和手工雕 刻。游客除了获得一个参观内部工匠工作过程 的难得机会,也可亲自下场试试自己的技术。 London Craft Week Date 日期:6.5.2015-10.5.2015 Website 网页:www.londoncraftweek.com/programme Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin Date 日期:7.5.2015-9.5.2015 Venue 地点:Vacheron Constantin, 37 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AB

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What Is Luxury ? People may generally define this crown as luxury. But what is lux r in essence? It is exactly what the curator wants to ex lore, not literally, but in ter s of physical, concept al and cult ral capacit . If you are looking for some eye-popping ex aordinar master ieces in “What Is Lux r ?” exhibition, surely you won’t be disappointed. This Rococo st le crown is made of diamonds, emeralds and r bies set into a gold crown, created in 1750 in Por gal. It is lux r not only because of its ex ensive value. Lux r implies and represents an invest ent in time and the application of skills. At the end of the exhibition, you will draw your own definition of lux r .

奢华抑或豪奢? 看到这金光闪烁的皇冠,想必是价值连城的 珍宝。然而,名贵是否等同于奢华?策展人 在全新展览“What is Luxury?”,将从实体 模式、概念及文化层面探讨奢华的定义。 题为 Luxury,访客当然会期待令人赞 叹的旷世杰作,这个展览亦将 网罗一众定位奢华的展品,包括 图中这个镶满钻石、绿宝石和红宝石 的洛可可风格皇冠,精工出自 1750 年的葡萄牙。透过稀有华丽的展品, 策展人诉说奢华代表着工匠付出的 时间、心血与技艺。说到底,奢华 到底是什么,还是在赏毕展览后由 访客自行定论。

Date 日期:25.4.2015 – 27.9.2015 Venue 地点: Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL Website 网页: www.vam.ac.uk

Second Space Traveller Watch by George Daniels,1982 ©Jasper Gough

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72-WhatIsLuxury-01.indd 1

Time for Yourself by Marcin Rusak in collaboration with Iona Inglesby, 2014 ©Marcin Rusak

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3/18/2015 10:26:43 PM


Meet Top Craftsmen 与顶级工艺师互动 Included as one of the aspiring prog ammes of the London Craft Week: COLLECT, the leading Inter ational Ar Fair for contemporar objects, ret r s for its 12th anniversar in May. The Fair brings together a selection of 35 leading galleries worldwide, presenting a selection of ceramics, glass, jeweller , precious metal, wood, tex iles, stoneware and f r it re. It is a chance for collectors and enthusiasts to purchase some of the finest and newest works available in the cur ent market, as well as to meet the top-notch craſt makers. 今 年 首 度 举 行 的 London Craft Week, 其中最令人引颈以待的环节之一便是 COLLECT。此国际艺术展已踏入第 12 届, 今年 5 月将再度带来顶尖的当代艺术品。参 展的 35 个顶级画廊来自世界各地,展品涵 盖陶瓷、玻璃、珠宝、贵重金属、木制品、 纺织品、石器和家具。收藏家及艺术爱好者 可藉此一睹当今最新的精致手工艺品,买得 心头好的同时更可与一流的工艺师交流。

Lemon Chandelier, 2014, by Chris Antemann, Meissen Couture Art Collection, exhibited at COLLECT by Cynthia Corbett Gallery, worths £100,000.

Date 日期:8.5.2015-11.5.2015 Venue 地点:The Saatchi Gallery, Duke Of York’s HQ, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY Website 网页:www.collect2015.org.uk (booking is necessary)

On the other hand, Walpole, an alliance of Britain’s lux r brands, which stands for the finest craſtsmen and ar isans, has become a st ategic par er for the London Craft Week. Demonstrations will be provided throughout the week in Central London locations, where visitors will have special access to st dios and workshops, galleries and shops. Be ready to engage first-hand with the process of ar -craſting! 与 此 同 时, 代 表 英 国 众 多 奢 华 品 牌 的 联 盟 Walpole, 亦 成 为 London Craft Week 的策略合作伙伴,展示英国工艺之最。Walpole 将策划多次 珍贵的工艺示范机会,展场遍布伦敦市中心多个地点,访客亦有机会私 访工作室、展示室及商店等,让公众亲手参与艺术品的诞生过程。 Golden Spout, by Juli Bolanos-Durman, represented by Joanna Bird at COLLECT©Shannon Tofts

Date 日期:6.5.2015-10.5.2015 Website 网页:www.thewalpole.co.uk/london-craft-week

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Alexander McQueen : Savage Beauty 亚历山大・麦昆︰野性之美

F

ive years aſter the death of British fashion icon Alexander “Lee” McQueen, Savage Beaut exhibition now comes to his home town. Originated by the Cost me Instit te at Met opolitan Museum of Ar in New York in 2011, Savage Beaut celebrates the ex aordinar creative talent of McQueen. It has been specially edited and ex anded for the stage in Victoria and Alber Museum(V&A).

McQueen always had an obsession towards nat re and birds thus having incor orated these elements into his collections. A lot of feathers and birds were illust ated in his show. According to his brother Michael, McQueen watched birds flying around the tower blocks in the East End when he was a boy. That was where McQueen got a lot of his creative ideas.

A new section focusing on McQueen’s fledgling development in London are added. 30 additional gar ents, including some rare early pieces borrowed from private individuals and collectors are also feat red. New gar ents displayed include a red ballet dress from “The Girl Who Lived in the Tree (A/W 2008-09)” and a white feathered dress from “The Horn of Plenty (A/W 2009-10)”.

Gainsbur and Whiting, who used to produce McQueen’s cat alk shows, have been working with V&A on the exhibition. Each section capt res the essence of the provocative, dramatic and ex avagant cat alk presentations which McQueen has become renowned for, combining stor elling, theat ical perfor ance and music.

“Savage Beaut is a celebration of the most imaginative and talented desig er of our time. Lee was a genius and a t e visionar who pushed boundaries, challenged and inspired. He believed in creativit and innovation and his talent was limitless.” Sarah Bur on, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen “野性之美是庆祝我们这个时代最富想像力和才华的设计 师。麦昆是一个天才,他也是一个真正有远见的人,总是 在迎接挑战、迸发灵感,并超越界限。他相信创意和革新, 拥有无限才华。”

创意總監 Sarah Burton

英国时尚代表亚历山大·麦昆逝世 5 年后,“野

在性之美”展览终于来到他的家乡举行。展览是由

纽约大都会艺术博物馆时装学院发起,最初于 2011 年 在纽约举行,以纪念麦昆非凡的创作才华。经重新编 排,这次在维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆的展出规模更大。 这次展览不但新增了一个环节,集中披露麦昆在伦敦 初出茅芦、羽翼未丰时的发展故事,亦较之前展出多 30 件麦昆设计的服装,当中包括由私人收藏家借出、 罕见的早期作品。新展出的服装包括 2008-09 秋冬系 列“The Girl Who Lived in the Tree”中一条红色芭蕾 舞裙、2009-10 年秋冬系列“The Horn of Plenty”中的 白色羽毛礼服。麦昆一直痴迷于大自然和鸟类,并把 这些元素融入他的作品。在他的演出中,可以看到很 多羽毛和鸟类。据他哥哥迈克尔说,麦昆小时候常常 看着鸟儿绕着东区一座座塔飞行。麦昆的很多灵感正 是从此而来。 一直为麦昆监制时装秀的 Gainsbury 和 Whiting,这次 跟维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆紧密合作,捕捉了麦昆赖 以成名的挑衅式、具戏剧感和浮夸式的走秀精髓,将 结合故事讲述、戏剧和音乐形式,重新展现在观众面 前。

Butterfly headdress of hand-painted turkey feathers Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen, La Dame Bleue, S/S2008 Model: Alana Zimmer ©Anthea Simms

74

74-75-Alexander Mcqueen-01.indd 1

Bird's Nest headdress with Swarovski gemstones Philip Treacy and Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen, Widows of Culloden, A/W 2006-07 Model: Snejana Onopka Image: Courtesy Swarovski Archive

Duck feather dress Alexander McQueen, The Horn of Plenty, A/W 2009-10 Model: Magdalena Frackowiak Image: firstVIEW

Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 Photographed by Marc Hom ©Marc Hom/Trunk Archive

Date Until 展览直至:2.8.2015 Venue 地点: Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL Website 网页:www.vam.ac.uk

75

3/19/2015 12:34:12 AM


“Savage Beaut is a celebration of the most imaginative and talented desig er of our time. Lee was a genius and a t e visionar who pushed boundaries, challenged and inspired. He believed in creativit and innovation and his talent was limitless.” Sarah Bur on, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen “野性之美是庆祝我们这个时代最富想像力和才华的设计 师。麦昆是一个天才,他也是一个真正有远见的人,总是 在迎接挑战、迸发灵感,并超越界限。他相信创意和革新, 拥有无限才华。”

创意總監 Sarah Burton

英国时尚代表亚历山大·麦昆逝世 5 年后,“野

在性之美”展览终于来到他的家乡举行。展览是由

纽约大都会艺术博物馆时装学院发起,最初于 2011 年 在纽约举行,以纪念麦昆非凡的创作才华。经重新编 排,这次在维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆的展出规模更大。 这次展览不但新增了一个环节,集中披露麦昆在伦敦 初出茅芦、羽翼未丰时的发展故事,亦较之前展出多 30 件麦昆设计的服装,当中包括由私人收藏家借出、 罕见的早期作品。新展出的服装包括 2008-09 秋冬系 列“The Girl Who Lived in the Tree”中一条红色芭蕾 舞裙、2009-10 年秋冬系列“The Horn of Plenty”中的 白色羽毛礼服。麦昆一直痴迷于大自然和鸟类,并把 这些元素融入他的作品。在他的演出中,可以看到很 多羽毛和鸟类。据他哥哥迈克尔说,麦昆小时候常常 看着鸟儿绕着东区一座座塔飞行。麦昆的很多灵感正 是从此而来。 一直为麦昆监制时装秀的 Gainsbury 和 Whiting,这次 跟维多利亚阿尔伯特博物馆紧密合作,捕捉了麦昆赖 以成名的挑衅式、具戏剧感和浮夸式的走秀精髓,将 结合故事讲述、戏剧和音乐形式,重新展现在观众面 前。

Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 Photographed by Marc Hom ©Marc Hom/Trunk Archive

Date Until 展览直至:2.8.2015 Venue 地点: Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL Website 网页:www.vam.ac.uk

75

3/19/2015 3:57:39 PM


Miss Saigon Recurs: The World-Record Breaking Musical

A Timeless Love Story Miss Saigon is a Musical about a 17-year-old Vietnamese bar girl, Kim, and the love story between her and an American GI, Chris. The story is set in 1975 during the final days of the American occupation of Saigon. This war time epic has been performed in 28 countries, over 300 cities in 15 different languages. It has won over 40 awards and has been seen by over 35 million people worldwide.

《西贡小姐》重演 破世界票房纪录 Miss Saigon, an epic romance that maybe less known to tourists but more successf l in ticket sales. “It has drawn in more revenue at the box office in 10 years as compared to what Cats, Phantom Of The Opera and Les Misérables have got in 20 years.” Cameron Mackintosh, the theat ical producer of Miss Saigon and the aforesaid acclaimed musicals under his own production company, disclosed in the inter iew.

Ticket sales in excess of £4m in 1 day

©Matthew Murphy

G

oing for a musical has always been one of the “must dos” for tourists in London. When most are ravening for Phantom Of The Opera, The Cats and Les Misérables, perhaps it is time to uncover the fact that Miss Saigon is act ally a more popular choice.

伦敦观赏音乐剧恍如朝圣,全球旅客慕名而至。大部分人所选可能是最脍 炙人口的《歌声魅影》、《猫》或《孤星泪》等,其实可能忽略了非常卖 座的《西贡小姐》。

到 76

76-77-miss saigon-01.indd 1

Debuted in 1989 which once took the West End by storm, Miss Saigon came back to London in May 2014 with a new crew and cast. During the advance ticket booking, the sales exceeded £4.4 million which has set a new record for the largest single day of sales in West End and Broadway Alistair Brammer plays Chris history. Sir Mackintosh added, “Miss Saigon has already recouped its investment even before its opening.” In the recent WhatsOnStage Awards, the worldrecord-breaker further lengthened its portfolio by winning 9 awards. The presentation is the only major theatre awards voted by the public in UK. Jon Jon Briones (acting the Engineer) and Eva Noblezada (acting Kim) have won the Best Actor and the Best Actress respectively; other awards include the Best Direction, the Best Set Design and the Best Musical Revival.

永恒不朽的爱情剧 故事描述名叫Kim的17岁越 南少女,被迫在酒吧工作, 整出剧围绕她和美国陆军 Chris的曲折情事,而故事 发生在1975年越战,美军即 将从西贡撤兵的时期。此历 久不衰的经典故事,曾于28 国、300个城市,以15种语 言演出,赢得超过40个奖 项,观众人次逾350万。

浪漫传奇的《西贡小姐》未必是史上最著名 的音乐剧,但事实上却相当吸金。此剧监 制Cameron Mackintosh在接受媒体访问中透 露: “《西贡小姐》10年内的票房收益,已超 越《猫》、《歌声魅影》及《孤星泪》分别在20年 内所累积的收益。”上述的音乐剧亦是由这 位著名监制出品。

单日票房冲破4百万镑 《西贡小姐》于1989年首度上演时,便已风靡 伦敦西端的剧院界,并在世界各地巡演数十 载。去年5月,这套经典 的浪漫爱情歌舞片载謍 重来,以全新的制作班 底及演员阵容示人,在 预售阶段票房已逾440万 镑,创下伦敦西端剧院 及百老汇史上最高的单 Rachelle Ann Go plays Gigi

日售票额。Cameron又

提到,《西贡小姐》未正式重演已赚回成本。 在今年2月举行的WhatsOnStage颁奖礼上, 《西贡小姐》再度报捷,获得9项大奖。饰演 歹角Enginner的菲裔演员Jon Jon Briones及 饰演西贡小姐Kim的Eva Noblezada,分别获 得最佳男女主角奖,其他奖项包括最佳导 演、最佳布景设计及最佳回归音乐剧奖等, WhatsOnStage大奖是英国唯一的主流舞台 艺术殊荣,由公众投票,反映《西贡小姐》受 到普遍欢迎。

77

3/18/2015 11:51:23 PM


A Timeless Love Story Miss Saigon is a Musical about a 17-year-old Vietnamese bar girl, Kim, and the love story between her and an American GI, Chris. The story is set in 1975 during the final days of the American occupation of Saigon. This war time epic has been performed in 28 countries, over 300 cities in 15 different languages. It has won over 40 awards and has been seen by over 35 million people worldwide.

Miss Saigon, an epic romance that maybe less known to tourists but more successful in ticket sales. “It has drawn in more revenue at the box office in 10 years as compared to what Cats, Phantom Of The Opera and Les Misérables have got in 20 years.” Cameron Mackintosh, the theatrical producer of Miss Saigon and the aforesaid acclaimed musicals under his own production company, disclosed in the interview.

Ticket sales in excess of £4m in 1 day

Debuted in 1989 which once took the West End by storm, Miss Saigon came back to London in May 2014 with a new crew and cast. During the advance ticket booking, the sales exceeded £4.4 million which has set a new record for the largest single day of sales in West End and Broadway Alistair Brammer plays Chris history. Sir Mackintosh added, “Miss Saigon has already recouped its investment even before its opening.” In the recent WhatsOnStage Awards, the worldrecord-breaker further lengthened its portfolio by winning 9 awards. The presentation is the only major theatre awards voted by the public in UK. Jon Jon Briones (acting the Engineer) and Eva Noblezada (acting Kim) have won the Best Actor and the Best Actress respectively; other awards include the Best Direction, the Best Set Design and the Best Musical Revival.

永恒不朽的爱情剧 故事描述名叫Kim的17岁越 南少女,被迫在酒吧工作, 整出剧围绕她和美国陆军 Chris的曲折情事,而故事 发生在1975年越战,美军即 将从西贡撤兵的时期。此历 久不衰的经典故事,曾于28 国、300个城市,以15种语 言演出,赢得超过40个奖 项,观众人次逾350万。

浪漫传奇的《西贡小姐》未必是史上最著名 的音乐剧,但事实上却相当吸金。此剧监 制Cameron Mackintosh在接受媒体访问中透

露: “《西贡小姐》10年内的票房收益,已超 越《猫》、《歌声魅影》及《孤星泪》分别在20年 内所累积的收益。”上述的音乐剧亦是由这 位著名监制出品。

单日票房冲破4百万镑 《西贡小姐》于1989年首度上演时,便已风靡 伦敦西端的剧院界,并在世界各地巡演数十 载。去年5月,这套经典 的浪漫爱情歌舞片载謍 重来,以全新的制作班 底及演员阵容示人,在 预售阶段票房已逾440万 镑,创下伦敦西端剧院 及百老汇史上最高的单 Rachelle Ann Go plays Gigi

日售票额。Cameron又

提到,《西贡小姐》未正式重演已赚回成本。 在今年2月举行的WhatsOnStage颁奖礼上, 《西贡小姐》再度报捷,获得9项大奖。饰演 歹角Enginner的菲裔演员Jon Jon Briones及

饰演西贡小姐Kim的Eva Noblezada,分别获 得最佳男女主角奖,其他奖项包括最佳导 演、最佳布景设计及最佳回归音乐剧奖等, WhatsOnStage大奖是英国唯一的主流舞台 艺术殊荣,由公众投票,反映《西贡小姐》受 到普遍欢迎。

77


Interview with the Mastermind

幕后功臣分享心得

Marquess was privileged to be invited as one of the few Global Chinese media to see the musical at Prince Edward Theatre, and interviewed Executive Producer Mr Thomas Schönberg and the UK Associate Director Mr Jean-Pierre Van Der Spuy.

MARQUESS 有 幸 成 为 少 数 获 邀 的 环 球 华

M: Marquess T: Thomas Schönberg JP: Jean-Pierre Van Der Spuy M: What is the most challenging part in producing Miss Saigon? T & JP: It is undoubtedly the casting! T: We need the right person to act Kim, the Miss Saigon. She must be very young, she should somehow look innocent but can also show her strength as a mother. That’s why the auditions took place worldwide in 18 months. Finally we have Eva Noblezada, a Filipino, American and Mexican mixed girl under 20 years old, and she is an excellent singer and actress. M: Why not the setting production? JP: Yes we have many huge and complicated settings on the stage. I am sure audience will be stunned by the helicopter! However, we would be failed if only the technical part stands out. The story is the core, we merged every part on the stage to create a total theatrical experience. M: How would you say the main difference of this revival version with the first version? What makes the audience who has watched 15 to 25 years ago to come again? T: A different production crew members and cast results in a different pleasure, for sure. I will say, the story is so timeless that audiences of any generation will have resonance. It is historically rich but still universal nowadays, about love, separation, hardship and sacrifice. Even though we are not in war, the conflicts make human suffering. The story repeats. JP: Come back whenever you need something romantic, something humourous or something spectacular. Miss Saigon has the diverse elements all in one.

文媒体,在爱德华王子剧院 (Prince Edward Theatre) 欣 赏 这 出 名 剧, 并 访 问 了 执 行 监

Editor's Pick – Miss Saigon Unmissable Scenes 编辑精选西贡小姐经典场面

制 Thomas Schönberg 和 英 国 地 区 的 副 导 演 Jean-Pierre Van Der Spuy。 Jean-Pierre Van Der Spuy

Thomas Schönberg

M :《西贡小姐》制作过程中最困难的部分是 什么? T & JP : 肯定是挑选演员方面!

T : 我们要物色饰演 Kim 的最佳人选,一位活 生生的西贡小姐。她必须要年轻,既有稚气又 不失身为母亲的坚强。经过 18 个月在世界各

1

地的甄选,我们决定起用 Eva Noblezada,她有 菲律宾、美国及墨西哥血统,且能演擅唱。 M : 布景设计并非最具挑战性的一环?

JP : 今次的布景组件的确非常大型和复杂,尤 其是那架直升机!但要是观众只着眼于一堆技 术工程而非情节本身,那么我们便失败了。故 此我们的挑战是如何融景于情,营造全面的剧 场体验。 M : 重演版本和本身版本的最大区别在什么? 你会如何说服十多廿年前曾经看过《西贡小 姐》的观众再来观看? T : 全新的制作团队和一班新世代演员自然 是 亮 点, 重 点 是 剧 情 饶 富 历 史 意 义, 百 看 不 厌。 即 使 我 们 未 经 历 过 战 争, 世 上 仍 充 斥 着 矛 盾 纷 争, 同 样 经 历 爱 情、 分 离、 苦 楚、 牺 牲, 无 论 哪 一 代 人 看 都 会 有 共 鸣。 JP : 假如你怀念一出集爱情、喜剧与特技于一 身的音乐剧,回来看看《西贡小姐》吧,它的 元素是多么多元化。 Miss Saigon by Cameron Mackintosh Production Date Until 上演至:17.12.2015 Venue 地点:Prince Edward Theatre, 28 Old Compton Street, London W1D 4HS

1. Where else could you find

a musical that landed a huge partially-real helicopter on the stage? This scene signifies the separation of Kim and Chris and the change of their fates. ©Michael Le Poer Trench 盛大精密的布景与道具让人 目不暇给,至少你不会错过 台上那架半真的直升机!

2 2. Jon Jon Briones who plays the notorious wheeler-dealer “Engineer” has got full house of applause. The best of all his solos is “The American Dream” near the end of the play. ©Matthew Murphy Jon Jon Briones 饰演夜店老 板 “Engineer”出神入化, 常赢得全场掌声,下半场近 结束的一幕”The American Dream”最为拍案叫绝。

3. Listen to one of the most

touching songs at “The Wedding Ceremony”, at the first-half of the show.©Matthew Murphy 在 上 半 场 Kim 和 Chirs 成 婚 一幕,竖起耳朶细听全剧最 浪漫动听的歌曲。

3

78

00


幕后功臣分享心得 MARQUESS 有 幸 成 为 少 数 获 邀 的 环 球 华 文媒体,在爱德华王子剧院 (Prince Edward Theatre) 欣 赏 这 出 名 剧, 并 访 问 了 执 行 监

Editor's Pick – Miss Saigon Unmissable Scenes 编辑精选西贡小姐经典场面

制 Thomas Schönberg 和 英 国 地 区 的 副 导 演 Jean-Pierre Van Der Spuy。

M :《西贡小姐》制作过程中最困难的部分是 什么? T & JP : 肯定是挑选演员方面!

T : 我们要物色饰演 Kim 的最佳人选,一位活 生生的西贡小姐。她必须要年轻,既有稚气又 不失身为母亲的坚强。经过 18 个月在世界各

1

地的甄选,我们决定起用 Eva Noblezada,她有 菲律宾、美国及墨西哥血统,且能演擅唱。 M : 布景设计并非最具挑战性的一环?

JP : 今次的布景组件的确非常大型和复杂,尤 其是那架直升机!但要是观众只着眼于一堆技 术工程而非情节本身,那么我们便失败了。故 此我们的挑战是如何融景于情,营造全面的剧 场体验。 M : 重演版本和本身版本的最大区别在什么? 你会如何说服十多廿年前曾经看过《西贡小 姐》的观众再来观看? T : 全新的制作团队和一班新世代演员自然 是 亮 点, 重 点 是 剧 情 饶 富 历 史 意 义, 百 看 不 厌。 即 使 我 们 未 经 历 过 战 争, 世 上 仍 充 斥 着 矛 盾 纷 争, 同 样 经 历 爱 情、 分 离、 苦 楚、 牺 牲, 无 论 哪 一 代 人 看 都 会 有 共 鸣。 JP : 假如你怀念一出集爱情、喜剧与特技于一 身的音乐剧,回来看看《西贡小姐》吧,它的 元素是多么多元化。 Miss Saigon by Cameron Mackintosh Production Date Until 上演至:17.12.2015 Venue 地点:Prince Edward Theatre, 28 Old Compton Street, London W1D 4HS

1. Where else could you find

a musical that landed a huge partially-real helicopter on the stage? This scene signifies the separation of Kim and Chris and the change of their fates. ©Michael Le Poer Trench 盛大精密的布景与道具让人 目不暇给,至少你不会错过 台上那架半真的直升机!

2 2. Jon Jon Briones who plays the notorious wheeler-dealer “Engineer” has got full house of applause. The best of all his solos is “The American Dream” near the end of the play. ©Matthew Murphy Jon Jon Briones 饰演夜店老 板 “Engineer”出神入化, 常赢得全场掌声,下半场近 结束的一幕”The American Dream”最为拍案叫绝。

3. Listen to one of the most

touching songs at “The Wedding Ceremony”, at the first-half of the show.©Matthew Murphy 在 上 半 场 Kim 和 Chirs 成 婚 一幕,竖起耳朶细听全剧最 浪漫动听的歌曲。

3

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Sloane Street : International Luxury Brands Selling Uniqueness

A

Sloane St eet was originally developed in the 18th cent r . In 1777, Henr Holland bought the development lease from Charles “Sloane� 1st Earl Cadogan and developed nearly 100 acres of Chelsea over the nex few years. In 1811, Jane Austen, the famous author of Sense and Sensibilit , visited London and stayed at No. 64 Sloane St eet, the proper of her brother Henr and his wife Eliza.

BASIL STREET ĆŹ

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间世界ç&#x;Ľĺ??çš„粞ĺ“ ĺş—ă€‚ĺŽƒ䝏唎ĺ?–çš„弢äžˆĺ“ çłť

ć—śčŁ…ç§€ä¸Šă€‚ć— 莺ć˜ŻäťŽéŞ‘壍楼ćˆ–ć–Żéš†ĺšżĺœşĺź€ĺ§‹é€›ďźŒéƒ˝ĺ?Ż

ć‰žĺˆ°ĺ¤šç§?çąťĺž‹çš„ĺ“ ç‰ŒďźŒĺŒ…ć‹Źç”ˇčŁ…ă€ čĄŒć?Žă€ éŤ˜级弳čŁ…ďźŒ 䝼至獼装。 斯隆襗的ĺ?‘幕始于 18 世纪。1777 ĺš´ďźŒHenry Holland 购下 Charles “Sloaneâ€? 1st Earl Cadogan çš„ĺœ&#x;ĺœ°ĺ?‘ĺą•ç§&#x;

čľ ďźŒĺ…śĺ?Žç&#x;­ç&#x;­ć•°ĺš´ďźŒäžżĺź€ĺ?‘äş†ĺˆ‡ĺ°”輿čż‘ 100 亊ĺœ°ă€‚ă€Šç?† ć™şä¸Žćƒ…ć„&#x;》的著ĺ??ä˝œ厜玀¡弼ć–Żä¸ äşŽ 1811 嚴莿游䟌 ć•Ść—śďźŒĺ°ąä˝?ĺœ¨ĺĽšçš„ĺ…„é•żäş¨ĺˆŠĺ’ŒĺŤ‚ĺ­?䟊丽莎ä˝?于斯隆襗 64 ĺ?ˇçš„幅所。 çŽ°ć—śçš„ć–Żéš†čĄ—ă€ ć–Żéš†ĺšżĺœşĺ’Œćą‰ć–Żĺšżĺœşçš„čĄ—é “č§„ĺˆ’ĺœş ć™ŻďźŒčˇ&#x;当嚴所塎ć— ĺ‡ ă€‚çť?历近ĺ?Šä¸–纪ďźŒćą‰ć–Żé•‡äť?䝼é?ž

常ć—śĺ°šĺœ°ĺŒşé—ťĺ??。骑壍楼二ĺ› ć­¤ćˆ?为č‘—ĺ??çš„éŤ˜ĺ°šč´­ç‰Š ĺŒşďźŒ为大ĺ“ ç‰Œĺş—čż›銝çš„ćœŞć?Ľĺ?‘ĺą•ĺĽ ĺŽšĺ&#x;şçĄ€ă€‚ ŠVisitBritain / Pawel Libera

CADOGAN GATE

1

ĆŹ

CADOGAN PLACE

ELLIS STREET

CADOGAN GADENS

SLOANE STREET

HANS CRES

éš†čĄ—ć˜ŻäźŚć•Śä¸°ĺŻŒĺ¤š姿çš„蹪ĺ?Žč´­ç‰ŠĺŒşďźŒćą‡č šäş†ĺ¤š

ĺˆ—ďźŒéš?äžżä¸€äťśéƒ˝ć›žĺ‡şçŽ°ĺœ¨äźŚć•Śă€ çąłĺ…°ă€ 纽續ćˆ–塴靎的

HARRIET STREET

SLOANE STREET

The st eet plan for Sloane St eet, Sloane Square and Hans Place today is pretty much the same as it was laid out originally. For a period of some 50 years Hans Town has been a ver fashionable place. At the same time, Knightsbridge has become a mag et for shopping, as the early foundation prepared for the f t re g owth of big brand stores.

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KNIGHTSBRIDGE

SLOANE STREET

colourf l st eet f ll of boutiques with exclusive collections of luxury brands from runways in London, Milan, New York and Paris, Sloane St eet in London is renowned for lux rious shopping ex erience. As you star st olling along the st eet om Knightsbridge or Sloane Square, you can ďŹ nd a variet of brands ranging from menswear and luggage to children clothing and high fashion womenswear.

斯隆襗 : 国际ç&#x;Ľĺ??ĺ“ ç‰Œĺ€™銞

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CADOGAN PLACE

WILBRAHAM PLACE 2

SLOANE TERRACE Ǥ

Dior: Long black used leather coat with off white silk jacquard top and white printed silk pants.

SYMONS STREET SLOANE SQUARE

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斯隆街 : 国际知名品牌候驾

隆街是伦敦丰富多姿的豪华购物区,汇聚了多 间世界知名的精品店。它们售卖的奢侈品系

列,随便一件都曾出现在伦敦、米兰、纽约或巴黎的 时装秀上。无论是从骑士桥或斯隆广场开始逛,都可

找到多种类型的品牌,包括男装、行李、高级女装, 以至童装。 斯隆街的发展始于 18 世纪。1777 年,Henry Holland 购下 Charles “Sloane” 1st Earl Cadogan 的土地发展租 赁,其后短短数年,便开发了切尔西近 100 亩地。《理 智与情感》的著名作家简·奥斯丁于 1811 年访游伦 敦时,就住在她的兄长亨利和嫂子伊丽莎位于斯隆街 64 号的居所。 现时的斯隆街、斯隆广场和汉斯广场的街道规划场 景,跟当年所差无几。经历近半世纪,汉斯镇仍以非 常时尚地区闻名。骑士桥亦因此成为著名的高尚购物 区,为大品牌店进驻的未来发展奠定基础。 ©VisitBritain / Pawel Libera

CADOGAN GATE

CADOGAN PLACE

ELLIS STREET

CADOGAN GADENS SLOANE STREET

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WILBRAHAM PLACE 2

SLOANE TERRACE Ǥ

SYMONS STREET SLOANE SQUARE

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