February 2015

MARQUESS爵 TOURIST MAGAZINE

Valentine’s Special : GRAFF Romantic Gesture of Love Harrods CHAI WU Spring Festival Feature : Vacheron Constantin Celebrates The Year of Goat 2015 Autumn / Winter London Fashion Week : Aspirations 情人节精选 : 格拉夫终极浪漫告白 哈罗德＂财五＂中餐厅 春节特辑 : 江诗丹顿喜迎羊年 英国品牌总監专访 2015 秋冬伦敦时装周 : 引颈以待

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PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Circular Perfection

•

Focusing on essentials

•

Harmonious proportions

Patrimony epitomises stylistic purity. Reflecting a deliberately minimalist aesthetic striking a fine balance between taut lines and soft curves, it asserts its personality through slender cases radiating an elegance inspired by the 1950s.

Beneath the apparent simplicity, lies a wealth of sophistication.

The fine craftsmanship embodied in Patrimony bears the signature of the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Patrimony Pink gold case Hallmark of Geneva Hand-wound mechanical movement Calibre 1400 81180/000R-9159 www.vacheron-constantin.com

Royal Warrants 皇家认证 00

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Royal Warrants 皇家认证 00

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Flowers Collection, set in 18K white gold, tourmalines, colour diamonds, sapphires, rubies and tsavorites

Hall 2.2 Booth E10

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IWC PORTUGUESE .

ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.

Portugieser Chronograph Classic. Ref. 3904: There are men who are only in their element with the wind blowing in their faces: the indomitable adventurers who have always trusted their inner compass and the navigational instruments on board their ships. With the Portuguese Chronograph Classic, IWC puts both at the disposal of today’s ocean-going pioneers. Embodying precision and reliabilit y, the IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre displays elapsed times in hours and minutes in a single totalizer, where they can be read at a glance. The appliquéd Arabic numerals and railway track chapter ring, on the other hand, are redolent of the yearning to

see and discover distant places. They were, af ter all, design elements on the legendary first Portuguese model made in the 1930s. The origins of Portugal’s seafaring mythology go all the way back to the time of illustrious explorers such as Fernando Magellan and Vasco da Gama. Today, a glance through the transparent sapphire glass back at the tirelessly revolving rotor brings to life memories of their restless spirit of exploration. There will always be men who are drawn by the sea: many of them only because they are unable to resist the call of a watch, like this one, that embodies timeless elegance and classic design. IWC . ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

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For more information please call +44 845 337 1868 or email info-uk@iwc.com

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IWC PORTUGUESE .

ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.

design in the he way agellan parent s to life ways be hey are bodies

R MEN.

URICH

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Editor’s Note 编者的话

V

alentine’s Day and Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) both are weeks away. 2015 is the Year of Goat. In general, people who are bor in the Year of Goat are considered generous. They are kind hear ed and respected by others. Perhaps you can say that they are t ly ladies or gentlemen.

In the first edition of 2015, we shall bring you back in time to read about the 75th Anniversar of Sir Winston Churchill as Prime Minister of Britain and the 75th Anniversar of his finest hour in the Ba le of Britain. Through visiting his bir hplace and magnificent home the “Blenheim Palace”, we will understand more about one of the g eatest world leaders of the 20th cent r .

Nex , we are going to ex lore the prestigious watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, and its celebration of the Year of Goat (new limited edition) of the Legend of the Chinese Zodiac from the

情

Contents 目录

Métiers d’Ar Collections. Also coming up, one of its kind “Floris of London” is showcasing its sy ony ous to Valentine’s Day edition. Floris (since 1730) is the oldest independent perf mer in the world. A 285-year old company which received its Royal War ant almost t o cent ries ago. It is the perf mer chosen by the Royals. Since 2012, Floris has beg n to provide Bespoke Perf mer ser ice.

Create a sig at re perf me of your own, this is a t ly unique ex erience.

Although it might still be cold out, British Spring is already on its way. As we enter the second month of this year, we look for ard to the ar ival of the war season. Our team here at Marquess will continue to ex lore and bring you the highest qualit of Britishness.

十二生肖限量版系列第三款。在情人节，有

年，属此生肖人士一般是慷慨、仁慈

285 年历史的全球最古老香水世家 Floris of

2015 是纪念邱吉尔爵士成为英国首相和在不 列颠战役最光荣时刻 75 周年，透过访游他

皇家认证 40 皇家认证的骄傲 42 订制军服民装百年店 时装 48 2015 秋冬伦敦时装周引颈以待 52 专访创意总监 Izzet Ers

p.72

二月，我们期待温暖季节早临。MARQUESS

功伟绩。

团队将继续为大家探索英国最好的优秀之

配件 67 经典皮包 终身爱戴 68 与别不同的个性显示 艺术与文化 71 72 74 76

选。

MARQUESS 团队 p.76

MARQUESS Tourist Magazine is a member of the GREAT China Welcome Char er, an intiative which aims to make Britain the most welcoming destination in Europe for Chinese visitors. Run by VisitBritain with the suppor of the UK Gover ment, the GREAT China Welcome Char er is only open to companies which have demonst ated ser ices and facilities that are par icularly suitable for Chinese visitors. By selecting a company which displays the GREAT China Welcome Char er ark a visitor om china can be confident a war welcome.

For more infor ation, visit www.visitbritain.org/g eatchinawelcome

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MARQUESS 旅游杂志是“欢迎中国——尽享英伦礼遇计划”的 成员。“欢迎中国——尽享英伦礼遇计划”主要是使英国成为 欧洲当中最受中国游客欢迎的勝地。在英国政府支持下，該計 划由英国旅游局營运，只开放给能证明所提供服务或设施特别 适合中国游客的公司。来自中国的游客选择有 GREAT China Welcome 特許标志的公司，能有信心受到热烈款待。欲了解更 多信息请浏览 www.visitbritain.org/greatchinawelcome

高端钟表 58 IWC 首间英国精品店梅菲尔开业 60 盛载历史精粹的腕表 精致珠宝 62 永恒的翡翠珍藏

爱侣留下难忘的独有芳香。 春寒料峭，英国春季步伐尚远，当进入早春

年推出限量版羊年生肖纪念表，是其推出

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品牌，亦推出度身订做的名贵香水，诚可为

当年这位 20 世纪世界最伟大领袖之一的丰

乘着新春，世界制表品牌先驱江诗丹顿今

春节特辑 28 伦敦华埠喜迎羊年 30 江诗丹顿羊年生肖传奇 36 专访总厨 Jason Seeming Wa

London、取得英国皇家认证近 200 年的香水

的出生地与宏伟壮丽庄园，我们可以沉缅在

终极浪漫告白 与情人节同义的香水 情人节香槟海空体验 基本餐桌礼仪 花之生活艺术 穿越中世纪的北英格兰

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Team MARQUESS

人 节 春 节 只 是 一 步 之 遥！ 2015 是 羊

并常受到他人尊重。

情人节精选 10 12 14 18 24 26

Printed in UK by MARQUESS Magazine Telephone : +44 (0) 20 8732 7635 Editorial : editorial@marquessmagazine.com Advertising : advertising@marquessmagazine.com

暮色中游伦敦塔 福尔摩斯之前世今生 《大宪章》: 800 年自由之源 与邱吉尔家族邂逅

地图指南 80 伦敦市中心 82 萨维尔街 : 量身订制西服圣地

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Contents 目录 10 12 14 18 24 26

Valentine’s Special GRAFF : Ultimate Romantic Gest re of Love FLORIS : A Frag ance Sy ony ous with Valentine’s Day Valentine’s Champag e Ex erience Table Manners 101 A Life with Flowers A Time Travel to Nor her England

Chinese New Year Feature 28 London Hosts Celebrations for The Year of Goat 30 Vacheron Constantin : The Legend of Goat 36 Har ods CHAI WU Inter iew : Chef Jason Seeming Wa Royal Warrants 40 Pride of Royal War ants 42 Dege & Skinner 150th Anniversar

情人节精选 10 12 14 18 24 26

终极浪漫告白 与情人节同义的香水 情人节香槟海空体验 基本餐桌礼仪 花之生活艺术 穿越中世纪的北英格兰

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春节特辑 28 伦敦华埠喜迎羊年 30 江诗丹顿羊年生肖传奇 36 专访总厨 Jason Seeming Wa

p.30

皇家认证 40 皇家认证的骄傲 42 订制军服民装百年店

Fashion 48 Aspirations to London Fashion Week AW15 52 Exclusive inter iew with HOCKLEY’s Creative Director

时装 48 2015 秋冬伦敦时装周引颈以待 52 专访创意总监 Izzet Ers

Haute Horlogerie 58 IWC : 1st UK Boutique Lands on Mayfair 60 MontBlanc : Legacy on the Wrist

高端钟表 58 IWC 首间英国精品店梅菲尔开业 60 盛载历史精粹的腕表

p.72

Fine jewellery 62 Boodles : Emerald Greenfire is Forever

精致珠宝 62 永恒的翡翠珍藏

Accessories 67 Aspinal : Made to be Loved For a Lifetime 68 Ver : Not The Way of Ever one Else

配件 67 经典皮包 终身爱戴 68 与别不同的个性显示

71 72 74 76

Art and Culture Tower Twilight Tours Behind the Scene of Sherlock Mag a Car a : 800 Years of Liber Get to Know The Churchills

艺术与文化 71 72 74 76

Map and Guide 80 Cent al London 82 Mecca of Bespoke Tailoring p.76

Printed in UK by MARQUESS Magazine Telephone : +44 (0) 20 8732 7635 Editorial : editorial@marquessmagazine.com Advertising : advertising@marquessmagazine.com

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暮色中游伦敦塔 福尔摩斯之前世今生 《大宪章》: 800 年自由之源 与邱吉尔家族邂逅

地图指南 80 伦敦市中心 82 萨维尔街 : 量身订制西服圣地

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Ultimate Romantic Gesture of Love

终极浪漫告白

“The illustration of love in the form of a heart is a powerful and magical representation that communicates across every culture and generation. It can mean many things, not least the ultimate gesture of true love. It is a beautiful symbol that as designers we revisit time and time again.”

Anne-Eva Geffroy, Design Director at Graff “对于不同文化和世代而言，心形都是表达爱意的方式。它代表 很多东西，其中更可用来作终极浪漫告白。心形是一个美丽的符 号，我们的设计师会不时以它作为灵感来源做设计。” Graff 设计总监 Anne-Eva Geffroy

Ruby and Heart Necklace

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Valentine’s Special 情人节精选

T

he outline of a heart has been widely regarded as a symbol of everlasting love since the 16th century. It is also an enduring inspiration for the Graff Design team. Synonymous with this expression of romantic sentiment, heart shape diamonds and gemstones are incredibly emotive cuts that Graff has incorporated into a selection of its exquisite and enchanting jewels.

After many months of careful analysis, Graff ’s Senior Gemmologists believed that the exceptionally rare stones could be a matching pair. A lengthy and meticulous process of cutting and polishing revealed an extraordinary t r i u m p h , t w o p e r fe c t l y matching D Flawless heart shape diamonds exceeding 50 carats each. The stones belonged to each other, a union of passion and beauty, which is why they were named the Graff Sweethearts.

Further exquisite Graff jewels incorporating the beautiful heart silhouette include heart shape diamonds, sapphires and rubies are cradled within beautiful jewels, while rubies blaze exuberantly amidst the finest white diamonds within an exquisite heart shape bracelet.

16 世 纪 以 来， 心 形

自

已被视为永恒爱情的

象 征。 它 也 是 Graff 设 计 团队长久以来的灵感来 源。心形代表浪漫情调， Graff 因此也在很多精致 和迷人的钻石和宝石上采 用这种设计。 经过多月来的鉴定，Graff 资深 宝石学家认为，发掘出来的稀有原石 可以配成一对。经过漫长而细致的切割打磨 程序，两颗完美无瑕的 D 色无瑕心形钻石诞 生。每颗超过 50 克拉的钻石完美对称，璀 璨迷人，因此命名为 Graff Sweethearts。 Graff 以心形轮廓显示美丽的精致珠宝，包 括心形钻石、镶上蓝宝石或红宝石的美丽珠 宝等。镶嵌在心形手环的红宝石配以精致白 色钻石，焕发出璀璨光芒。

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A Fragrance Synonymous with Valentine’s Day 与情人节同义的香水

B

ouquet de La Reine by Floris is a fragrance considered to be synonymous with Valentine’s Day. This perfume was originally created by the founder’s son John Floris, as a wedding present for the 21 years old Queen Victoria and the love of her life Prince Albert in February 1840.

F

Inspired by the heart warming love story which blossomed in 1839 and became the talk of the town the same year, Floris decided to channel this romantic and joyful mood and create a special fragrance for the Queen.

维多利亚女王与阿尔伯特亲王的爱情故事

loris 出品的 Bouquet de La Reine，被誉为 情人节的代名词。这款香水最初由 Floris

创始人的儿子 John Floris 研制，送给时年 21 岁的维多利亚女王与她生命中摰爱阿尔伯特 亲王，作为两人于 1840 年 2 月结婚的礼物。

早在 1839 年孕育，并成为城中热话。John Floris 受他俩的感人爱情故事启迪，决定把 弥漫于空气中的浪漫和愉悦情调，转化制成 一种特殊的香水，以庆祝女王新婚。

Once completed, the perfume was duly walked around to Buckingham Palace a few days before the wedding. For over one century, Floris has been keeping the hand written letter of thanks signed by Queen Victoria and her new husband Albert.

这款新香水赶及在女王结婚前数天完成，并 洒喷在白金汉宫内。逾一世纪以来，Floris 仍一直保留着维多利亚女王与阿尔伯特亲王 当年亲手书写的感谢

The fragrance was then added to the Floris repertoire in 1860.

信。

As the oldest independent family perfumer in the world and the only appointed perfumer to Her Majesty the Queen, Floris is the original and authentic fragrance house.

1860 年获列入 Floris 的

Top notes: bergamot, blackcurrant buds, peach, violet leaf Heart notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla

Bouquet de La Reine 于 产品型录中。 作为全球最历史悠久的 独立家族香水品牌，也 是英女王伊利沙伯二世 唯一御用的香水品牌， Floris 是 最 能 保 持 原 来 幽香的正宗香水公司。 前调：佛手柑、黑醋栗芽、水蜜桃、紫罗兰叶 中调：茉莉、铃兰、玫瑰、晚香玉、依兰 尾调：橡苔、檀香、香草

Royal Warrants 皇家认证 13 00

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Valentine’s Champagne Experience 情人节香槟海空体验

I

作

Exclusive Romance in Private Capsule

私家舱尽享温馨

Perfect choice for exclusivity. Enjoy your own private capsule, offering you romantic views over London and taking you away from the busy city. Then let the host serves you a bottle of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne with Hotel Chocolat luxury chocolates.

Experience includes: Priority boarding, 30 minutes on the Coca-Cola London Eye, Private capsule, Coca-Cola London Eye host, Red rose... Available on 13 Feb at 8.30pm, 14 Feb at 3.30pm and 15 Feb at 8.30pm

期待与爱侣在伦敦眼的旋转私家舱上，欣赏

Valentine’s Champagne Cruise Enjoy the romantic views of London’s famous landmarks and the River Thames from a different perspective. Receive a glass of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne during a 40-minute cruise with live commentary and romantic music. Available on 14 Feb 6.45pm, 7.45pm and 8.45pm

Valentine’s Dinner Cruise Receive the ultimate Valentine’s package with the Dinner Cruise aboard the luxury London Eye Barracuda. During the 3-hour cruise along the River Thames, be welcomed with a glass of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne and canape reception before enjoying a delicious 3-course meal, wine and live entertainment by the Haywood Sisters. You can enjoy up to half bottle of wine, coffee and petit fours. Available on 14 Feb at 6.45pm

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为与爱侣庆祝情人节节目之前奏或压

deal for impressing before or after your Valentine’s plans. Let the Coca-Cola London Eye take you on a romantic journey with sensational views of London, whether during the day or night, whilst enjoying a glass of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne and a box of luxury Hotel Chocolat chocolates.

Experience includes: Priority boarding, 30 minutes on the Coca-Cola London Eye and Coca-Cola London Eye host. Available on 13 Feb at 12-8pm; 14 Feb at 12-10pm; 15 Feb at 12-8pm

轴，不妨在伦敦眼齐齐远眺迷人伦敦

景致，不管是白日或晚上，只要能与心爱情 人一起，碰杯享受名贵香槟，品尝名店巧克 力，甜蜜滋味尽在心头。体验包括；优先登 舱，遨游伦敦眼 30 分钟。 2 月 13 日 下 午 12 时 至 8 时；14 日 下 午 12 时至 10 时；15 日下午 12 时至 8 时

醉人的都巿繁华美景，轻尝香槟美酒、浅 酌甜心的巧克力。体验包括伦敦眼上 30 分 钟遨游、私家舱、专人侍候、奉送红玫瑰。 2 月 13 日晚上 8 时半；14 日下午 3 时半； 15 日晚上 8 时半

情人节香槟游艇行 换个全新角度，与爱侣欣赏伦敦著名地标和 泰晤士河的浪漫景致。在迷人的音乐背景与 现场解说下，手握香槟，细味航行之乐，全 程 40 分钟。 2 月 14 日下午 6 时 45 分、7 时 45 分及 8 时 45 分

情人节游艇晚餐 登上豪华的伦敦眼 Barracuda 游艇尽享极致 的情人节海上晚宴套餐，定令你和爱侣添上 难忘的情人节体验。沿着泰晤士河巡游 3 小 时的浪漫之旅，先以香槟欢迎酒会作序，随 着在 Haywood 姐妹乐队的现场妙曼音乐中， 与爱侣共享美味的 3 道菜式偕美酒，最后以 咖啡美点画上完美句号。 2 月 14 日下午 6 时 45 分

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Dine In “London Eye” If you are looking for an incredibly slick and fun experience plus an “out of the ordinary” dinner option, Dining at 135 would be a fantastic choice.

It will definitely bring you a memorable and impressive experience for your stay in London. The London Eye will be exclusively opened for you out of hours. This is a truly fabulous dining experience for up to 8 guests.

The evening will begin with a Champagne reception followed by a luxury three-course gourmet meal

by Rhubarb Food Design and with fine wine from Layton’s wines in an exclusive private capsule on

London Eye. You will have three rotations on the London Eye during the meal, rather than just once as a tourist. A ten minute pause at 135 metres high on the last rotation is specially scheduled for photographs to capture these memorable moments!

It is extremely exclusive, with only one experience available each month. There are no fixed dates, guests will need to contact the Corporate and Special Events teams to find out availability.

Needless to say, the breathtaking view of the city would make you feel like a genuine VIP served by the outstanding staff.

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伦敦眼空中晚膳 倘若你正为伦敦之旅寻找一个难忘而缤纷

用餐时段将足以让伦敦眼旋转 3 次，而不仅

的经历，加上非凡的晚餐体验，伦敦眼上

仅如游客般只得一次机会饱览美景。最后一

的 Dining at 135 将会是不二之选。它能为你

转还会特别为你在 135 米的最高点定格 10

带来在伦敦难忘而深刻的体验。伦敦眼将特

分钟，让你有足够时间用相机捕捉到这些难

意为你额外增加开放时间。Dining at 135 每

忘的瞬间。

次能为多达 8 名宾客提供美妙丰盛的用餐体 验。

这是每月仅得一次、极为独特的体验，并无 固定日期，客人需向 Dining at 135 特别活动

在伦敦眼私家舱进膳的美妙一夜，开始先有

团队预订。在伦敦眼上能观赏到令人摒息的

香槟招待，随由 Rhubarb Food Design 送上精

城市景色自然不用多说，更重要的是，优秀

心设计的 3 道菜式，配以 Layton’s 葡萄美酒。

的服务令客人感受到贵宾般厚待。

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H

aving good manners is a way to express consideration for others. It is advisable to apply basic table manners when dining alone or casually so that they will come naturally when going out to have a nice, formal dinner.

好的餐桌礼仪是为他人着想的一种体

良

现。有些基本的餐桌礼仪，即使是在

个人用餐或在较随意的场合与人共膳时也适 用。当习惯成自然后，到出席正式场合的宴 会时，也不会失礼。

Table Manners 101 基本餐桌礼仪 When taking a seat at the table, sit comfortably with reasonably distance then sit up straight. Wait until everyone is served or asked by the host before eating.

Always bring the utensils to the mouth, instead of bringing your face down to the plate. During meals, keep the mouth closed when chewing. Try to be as silent as possible. Under any circumstances, it is inappropriate to talk when there is still food in the mouth.

Also, help offering others anything the y want from t h e t a b le , su ch as salt or pepper.

Put other people’s need first and help yourself last.

Do not stretch across people to get anything out of reach. Do not leave the table until everyone finishes.

Nonetheless, it will never go wrong to follow what everyone around the table does.

坐在餐桌前，应与桌子保持适中的距离，并 挺直腰骨坐好。之后等大家的食物都上桌或 主人家邀请大家开始时才好进食。 保持仪态的第一步，是使用餐具把食物送进 口里，而不是弯低身子，把自己的脸贴近碗 碟。进食时要闭上嘴巴咀嚼，正所谓“食不 言”，在任何情况下，口中还有食物就不宜 张口说话。 另外，要帮忙 席上其他人士 传递所需要的 东西，如盐或 胡椒粉。先照 顾身旁人士， 最后才顾及自 己 的 需 要， 千万不要“飞 象过河”。要 待在原位直至 大家用餐完毕，不要先行离席。 尽管如此，只要依照桌上其他人士的做法而 行，便可减少出错的机会。

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How to Handle Cutlery Properly While using cutlery, there are two rules to stick to.

The first rule is, only forks, spoons and chopsticks are allowed to put into the mouth. It is not a good idea to lick the knife or eat off it. The second one is to follow the “outside-in� rule. Start with the utensils on the outside and work your way inward with each subsequent course.

Knives and spoons are placed on the right hand side of the plate, while the forks are on the left. How these utensils laid on the table actually shows how the British dine. For most of the dishes, they use knife and fork together, with knife in the right hand and fork in the left hand. When eating, the tines of the fork are pointing downwards always, even for

the peas. However, when the British eat foods, such as pasta, with a fork only, they will hold the fork in the right hand with the tines pointing upwards.

Before starting, you will find a napkin on the table.

Place it on the lap once seated. If leaving the table temporarily, leave the napkin on the chair. At the end of the meal, just leave the napkin unfolded on the left hand side of the setting of the table.

Amongst all, table manner is an everyday practice to avoid offending dining companions. Do not criticise or comment on somebody who has done wrong. It is vital to remember that the rules are flexible and vary from different cultures.

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©VisitBritain / James McCormick

如何得体使用餐具 使用餐具主要需遵循两大原则。第一，只可

时，则只会用右手拿着叉子吃，这时叉子便

把叉子、勺子或筷子放进嘴里，不要舔餐刀

会朝上。

或直接以餐刀进食。第二是遵循由外而内的 规则。开始用餐时，先用较外面的餐具，然

开始就餐前，你会看到餐桌上摆放了餐巾，

后在每道菜式后，由外至内渐次使用较内置

最好一入座便把它自然地放在大腿上。如中

的餐具。

途暂时离桌，可把餐巾留在椅上。当用餐完 毕，把没摺叠的餐巾放回桌上左手边便可。

刀和匙是放在碟的右手侧，叉则放在其左 侧。餐具放置的位置其实透露了英国人用餐

总括而言，餐桌礼仪是避免冒犯一同进膳人

的习惯。英国人进食的菜肴，大多会同时使

士的日常做法。如果别人做错了，不要直接

用刀叉，通常右手持刀，左手拿叉。进食的

批评或评论人家。切须谨记一个重点，这些

时候，叉的尖齿常保持朝下方向，即使吃豌

礼仪的规则是灵活的，并会因应不同文化背

豆也如是。然而，当英国人吃意粉之类食物

景而有差异。

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ŠVisitBritain/ Simon Winnall

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Cheers 干杯 Drinking wine and champagne is part of the British culture when having a nice meal, especially for celebration or business. There are some manners that we should follow.

When ordering wine in a restaurant, the diners will be asked to taste it sometimes. It is to check if it is corked or not. The bottle and the cork are for verification of the identity of wine. The cork is there to see the information on it but not for smelling.

Swirl the wine in the glass and give it a sniff whilst being served. Afterwards, just take a small sip.

进餐时饮用葡萄酒和香槟，是英国饮食文化 的一部分，特别是庆祝节日或谈生意时。因 此，有些饮酒的礼仪和细节须加注意。 当你在餐馆点葡萄酒，通常会被邀试酒。这 是为要检查一下葡萄酒有没有走味。首先查 看软木塞，验明红酒的身分、年份跟所点的 是否相符。观察软木塞上的资料，但不要嗅 它。之后轻轻摇动酒杯，闻一下酒香，随后 小啜一口浅尝。 当开香槟时，开瓶前切勿晃动它，避免香槟 四处喷泻。随之剥掉上面的锡箔，再慢慢解 开固定软木塞的保护罩。之后，轻轻握着香 槟瓶，一边扭动瓶子，慢慢将软木塞开出 来。 开瓶后，酒量不可超过酒杯三分之二杯，好 让长笛型香槟酒杯能保留它的气泡。手持香 槟杯时请拿着它的杯干，避免手温影响香槟 的品质和味道。

©AFP

For champagne, open the bottle gently without shaking to avoid spraying it everywhere. Then peel off the foil and unwind the cage slowly. Ease the cork off by holding it lightly while twisting the bottle slowly.

Do not fill the glass more than two-thirds full and allows the tall narrow shape of the flute preserve the bubbles. Hold the stem to avoid warming the champagne. ©AFP

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A Life with Flowers 花之生活艺术 “First of all being a florist it’s a way of life, I live and breathe arts!” Nicolas Barelier, floral designer of his family business, RONI Floral Design advises, “This year the trend for floral design of wedding will be Antan flowers, it’s a mix of soft blush pinks and whites, very natural and soft.”

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“首先，作为花商是一种生活方式，我活着 便呼吸着艺术的空气！”法国著名家族花商 RONI Floral Design 设计师 Nicolas Barelier 說， “今年婚礼装饰将流行采用暗叹花，那是粉 色腮红与白的混合，十分自然而柔和。”

11/12/2014 2:25:45 PM

Floral Designer Interview : Nicolas Barelier 专访法国花饰设计师 Nicolas Barelier started to tell his personal profile from his family connection with flowers, “Before I became a floral designer, my father and his father before that were florists. For 120 years floristry has run in our blood. My great Grandfather was the first florist, getting the honour for being the best worker in France. My two brothers, sister and I are the fourth generation, we were around flowers our entire childhood, because of this we knew we would be florists.”

As replying to the famous brands or customers and events he has designed, Nicolas disclosed, “This year we are decorating the famous private party of the high jewellery brand De Grisogono at the Cap-Eden-Roc Antibes hotel. Also at the gala dinner for amFAR, animated by the glamorous Sharon Stone, and all the famous and fashionable Hollywood stars were present. We have worked for the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation. Regarding our private events for our Chinese customers, we prefer to be discrete.”

In order to discover new flowers, Nicolas said he always travels to visit floral fairs in Milan, Paris, Frankfurt, Brussels and Anvers. Depending on the space they have to work with enables his imagination to create the geometric structures they use to display flowers.

When tracing back his unforgettable orders for business Nicolas recalled an experience that has remained with him until this day. It was to deliver 8,000 square metres of red rose petals to a villa, where notes scattered leading to the bathroom where she found her engagement ring. This took place on the day of the red rose, symbolising love.

Nicolas Barelier 从他的家族与花的渊缘开始， 诉说他如何成为花饰设计师：“我的父亲和 祖父辈都是花商，花艺在我们家族血脉中已 流了 120 年。祖父是第一代花商，并在法国 获得最佳工人的荣誉。我的两个兄弟，姐姐 和我已属第四代，我们整个童年都是与花为 伍。正因如此，我们知道 我们会成为花商。” 被问及曾替什么著名品牌 或顾客做设计，他透露， “今年我们会为著名珠宝 品牌 De Grisogono 在 CapEden-Roc Antibes 酒店举行 的私人派对做装饰，另外 是明星莎朗·斯通和众多 好莱坞明星热衷的 amFAR 节庆晚宴。我们又曾为莱 昂纳多·迪卡普里奥基金 工作。至于华人的名人顾 客我们则须保密了”。 为了探寻新花作装饰设计，Nicolas 经常要到 处旅游，参加在米兰、巴黎、法兰克福、布 鲁塞尔和安特卫普的花展。他的设计通常要 视乎装饰地方的空间可以如何让他的灵感飞 驰，以及其地理结构可以怎样予他们陈列鲜 花的美丽装置。 当忆及所接到最难忘的订制花饰生意时，他 说有一次经验至今仍难忘。他要运送 8,000 平方米的红玫瑰花瓣到一间别墅，一直布满 到浴室，引领女主人跟随贴纸指示找到订婚 戒指。这是发生于象征爱的红玫瑰那日。

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A Time Travel to Northern England 穿越中世纪的北英格兰

B

eyond the numerous cathedrals, abbeys and monasteries in the Great Britain, head north to discover the Selby A b b e y i n No r t h Yo r k s h i re . T h i s h i d d e n ge m i s fo u n d i n 1 0 6 9 a n d s t i l l s h i n i n g with its stately appearance and utmost t ra n q u i l i t y. T h i s H o ly p l a c e i s re c e n t ly put under the spotlight as the legendary Ta i wa n e s e m u s i c i a n J ay C h o u h e l d h i s intimate fairytale wedding ceremony here.

在

Selby Abbe y is one of the relatively fe w surviving abbey churches of the medieval period, and remarkably one of the biggest of its age. The uniqueness of its history and architectural style accounts for a notto-be-missed visit in York. In fact, it is the first monastery to be founded in the North after the Norman Conquest. The abbey is reputed to be the birthplace of King Henry I of England.

纪 修 道 院 之 一， 它 的 面 积 亦 比 同 类 建 筑

D es p i te it s l ong a nd t urb ul ent histo r y, Selby Abbey is still beautifully kept.

This iconic architecture was first found

by Benedict of Auxerre and later by de Lacy family. Its Norman nave and finely decorated chancel are considered to be a m o n g t he f i n e st e xa m p le s o f 1 2 t h a n d 14th century architecture in England, you will be amazed by its richly- carved interior.

英 国 各 地 游 览 大 教 堂 及 寺 院， 常 叫 人 乐 此 不 疲。 不 妨 走 远 一 点， 北 行

至 北 约 克 郡 到 访 著 名 的 赛 尔 比 教 堂， 在 这所建于 1069 年的隐藏历史传承珍宝， 来 一 趟 时 空 之 旅。 宏 伟 的 建 筑 与 神 圣 氛 围 让 人 不 由 得 肃 然 起 敬， 难 怪 台 湾 天 王 歌手周杰伦选择在此举行童话式婚礼。 赛尔比教堂是英国硕果仅存的少数中世 大， 可 谓 深 埋 于 小 城 的 一 颗 宝 石。 其 丰 富 的 历 史 背 景 与 独 特 的 建 筑 风 格， 常 吸 引 游 人 来 访 北 约 克 郡。 事 实 上 它 是 自 诺 曼底征服英国后所设立的第一所修道院， 亦因是亨利一世国王的诞生之所而闻名。 屹立近千年，赛尔比教堂依然闪烁夺目。 这所圣堂先后由法国奥塞尔的僧侣班尼 迪以及诺曼底贵族 de Lacy 家族管理，其 主 堂 及 圣 坛 设 计 富 丽 堂 皇， 墙 壁 的 精 致 雕 刻 叫 人 迷 醉， 是 英 国 中 世 纪 教 堂 建 筑 的典范。

www.selbyabbey.org.uk

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CNY Feature 春节特辑

London Hosts Celebrations for The Year of Goat 伦敦华埠喜迎羊年

Glittering dragon parade, distinctive dances in special cost me, lion dance on high poles, fancy floats...the programmes of celebration for the Chinese New Year is in the pipeline. The throng is anticipated at the cit hear of London to welcome the Year of Goat. London’s CNY celebration is the biggest in the world outside Asia.

羊年乙未新春届临，亚洲以外规模最大的伦

The big day is set on Sunday 22 Febr ar . The heap of festivities across venues are organized by the London Chinatown Chinese Association (LCCA), suppor ed by the Mayor of London and presented by over 1000 perfor ers and volunteers.

庆典则于 2 月 22 日（周日）举行。伦敦华

The main events run from 10am, kick off by the parade from Duncannon Street to Shaftesbury Avenue all the way to Chinatown. The main stage will be set in Trafalgar Square for the official opening ceremony, followed by an ar ay of stage performances with troupes from China including acrobatics. One of the key attractions will be the variet show “Cult res of China, Festival of Spring” produced by Mr Wei Ding. The esteemed Red Poppy Ladies Percussion Group will also premiere their original dr m show at Trafalgar Square before going on their first European tour.

敦贺年庆祝活动，盛况料更胜往年。每年， 数以万计旅客聚集伦敦市中心，眼球聚焦在 形形色色的活动如舞龙巡游丶民族舞蹈丶高 桩舞狮等，喜庆氛围洋溢。 今年初一是在 2 月 19 日，伦敦华埠的主要 埠商会联同伦敦市政厅将在市内多个地点举 行多元化贺年节目，参加表演者及志愿工作 人员逾千。此次羊年庆典节目包括户外表演 丶花车游行丶露天市集及综合晚会等。 主要节目由早上 10 时开始。一如往年，旅 客将可欣赏由 Duncannon 街至 Shaftesbury 大 街大锣大鼓进入华埠的大型巡游，场面震 撼。主舞台设在特拉法加广场，届时将举行 开幕礼及精彩多姿的舞台表演，包括引人 入胜的中国杂技。当日重头戏将是由中央 民族歌舞团团长丁伟监制的“四海同春” 文 艺 综 合 表 演（Cultures of China, Festival of Spring），而著名的红樱束女子敲击乐团亦 会上演原创击鼓秀，乃其首度欧洲巡演的第 一站。

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CNY Feature 春节特辑

Glittering dragon parade, distinctive dances in special cost me, lion dance on high poles, fancy floats...the programmes of celebration for the Chinese New Year is in the pipeline. The throng is anticipated at the cit hear of London to welcome the Year of Goat. London’s CNY celebration is the biggest in the world outside Asia.

乙未羊年新春届临，亚洲以外规模最大的伦

The big day is set on Sunday 22 Febr ar . The heap of festivities across venues are organized by the London Chinatown Chinese Association (LCCA), suppor ed by the Mayor of London and presented by over 1000 perfor ers and volunteers.

庆典则于 2 月 22 日（周日）举行。伦敦华

The main events run from 10am, kick off by the parade from Duncannon Street to Shaftesbury Avenue all the way to Chinatown. The main stage will be set in Trafalgar Square for the official opening ceremony, followed by an ar ay of stage performances with troupes from China including acrobatics. One of the key attractions will be the variet show “Cult res of China, Festival of Spring” produced by Mr Wei Ding. The esteemed Red Poppy Ladies Percussion Group will also premiere their original dr m show at Trafalgar Square before going on their first European tour.

敦贺年庆祝活动，盛况料更胜往年。每年， 数以万计旅客聚集伦敦市中心，眼球聚焦在 形形色色的活动如舞龙巡游、民族舞蹈、高 桩舞狮等，喜庆氛围洋溢。 今年初一是在 2 月 19 日，伦敦华埠的主要 埠商会联同伦敦市政厅将在市内多个地点 举行多元化贺年节目，参加表演者及志愿工 作人员逾千。此次羊年庆典节目包括户外表 演、花车游行、露天市集及综合晚会等。 主要节目由早上 10 时开始。一如往年，旅 客将可欣赏由 Duncannon 街至 Shaftesbury 大 街大锣大鼓进入华埠的大型巡游，场面震 撼。主舞台设在特拉法加广场，届时将举行 开幕礼及精彩多姿的舞台表演，包括引人 入胜的中国杂技。当日重头戏将是由中央 民族歌舞团团长丁伟监制的“四海同春” 文 艺 综 合 表 演（Cultures of China, Festival of Spring），而著名的红樱束女子敲击乐团亦 会上演原创击鼓秀，乃其首度欧洲巡演的第 一站。

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Vacheron Constantin: The Legend of Goat 江诗丹顿羊年生肖传奇

F

ounded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin’s trustbased relationship with China can be dated back to 1845. On the Chinese New Year Day (February 19) of 2015, the day when “goat” takes over “horse” as the zodiac in Chinese astrology, Vacheron Constantin will launch the captivating year of goat model of The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac. It is the third model the Manufacturer has produced which is based on the 12-year cycle, following the snake and the horse.

立于 1755 年的江诗丹顿，与中国建立

创

互信关系可追溯至 1845 年。今年，农

In addition to the animals of the Chinese zodiac, the series also adopts the Chinese culture by applying the art of paper-cutting, Jianzhi. It is a technique initiated from China and echoed in Scherenschnitt, the popular art of paper-cutting born in the Pays d’Enhaut region of Switzerland. Thanks to the delicate, skilful craft of the experienced artisans of Vacheron Constantin, the paper-cutting art of the engraved animals is transformed into the field of watch making by best using the full and empty space artistically.

历年初一是 2 月 19 日，以中国生肖来说，

In addition, the stage of Grand Feu enamelling, a technique invented in Geneva which remains as the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans, further vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif.

The goat also exudes a sense of serenity through the sapphire crystal.

精湛技艺与丰富经验，将剪纸工艺运用于制

The timepieces are endowed with that unique touch of soul possessed by watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886 and is recognised around the world.

就是送走马年迎来羊年当天，江诗丹顿会推 出中国十二生肖传奇系列腕表的“羊年”型 号。这是以十二年为一个循环的系列中，继 “蛇年”和“马年”后的第三个型号。 這系列腕表所融合的中国文化，除了生肖造 型，还有中国的剪纸艺术。中国是剪纸艺术 发源地，与源自瑞士地区且颇为流行的剪影 艺术有异曲同工之妙。全赖江诗丹顿工匠的 表领域，充分利用满与空这特点來设计生肖。 此外，于日内瓦发明、至今只有极少数工匠 精通的大明火珐琅独特工艺，进一步使表盘 呈现光滑莹亮的玻璃质感，令花卉图案清晰 易见。山羊图案在蓝宝石水晶映衬下亦显出 平和感。 此款腕表被赋予独特的灵魂，镌刻着创于 1886 年的日内瓦印记。日内瓦印记是享誉世 界的高级制表工艺的最高象征之一。

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86073/000P-9890 - Platinum 86073/000P-9890 - 铂金

TECHNICAL DATA Caliber 2460 G4 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, self-winding 237 components 27 jewels Indications Hours, minutes, date and month in apertures Case Platinum 950 / 18K 5N pink gold 40 mm diameter, 12.74 mm thick Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres) Dial 18K gold dial, hand-engraved and Grand Feu enamelled Hand-engraved platinum 950 / 18K 5N gold goat There are 12 pieces for each model with 2015 engraved on the back of each timepiece.

86073/000R-9889 - Pink gold 86073/000R-9889 - 粉红金 技术规格 机芯

2460 G4 江诗丹顿自行研发并制造 自动上链机械机芯 237 个零件 27 颗宝石

显示

小时、分钟、日期和月份显示窗

表壳

铂金 / 粉红金 40 直径毫米、12.74 厚度毫米 透明蓝宝石水晶表底盖 通过 3 个巴大气压测试（约 30 米）

表盘

18K 金表盘、手工雕刻、大明火珐琅工艺 手工雕刻 950 铂金 / 粉红金山羊图案 两款羊年腕表每款限量发行 12 枚， 表背均镌刻“2015”字样。

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Interview with Vacheron Constantin’s UK Brand Director

江诗丹顿英国品牌总监专访 “Last summer, we opened our London flagship boutique with our own in-house watchmaker.” “去年夏天，江诗丹顿伦敦旗舰店 开业，店内并常驻有品牌制表师。”

Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin(left) and Celine Larose, UK Brand Director(right)

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M: MARQUESS L: Celine Larose, UK Brand Director

M: 你预期羊年腕表的市场反应如何 ? 中国

M: How do you anticipate the market response to the Year of Goat watch? What about the market response towards the former two zodiacs watches in the series?

L: Following the success of the previous two models in the Legend of the Chinese Zodiac series, the snake and the horse, we anticipate this third release to be just as well received.

样的巿场反应 ?

M: How has the economic crisis in Europe in the last few years affected the luxury watches’ market like Vacheron Constantin? Has it been recovered now?

L: Our Maison has continued to enjoy growth in the UK and only last summer, we opened our London flagship boutique with our own in-house watchmaker. This allows the Vacheron Constantin story to be told in depth, providing our customers with the full experience and history of our Maison.

Meanwhile, our Manufacture is expanding its watchmaking facilities in Switzerland, to meet with growing demand.

L: 英国的江诗丹顿之家业务仍持续增长。

十二生肖传奇系列的蛇年和马年腕表得到怎 L: 随着中国十二生肖传奇系列两个型号取 得的成功，我们预期顾客对第三个型号—— 羊年腕表亦会相当受欢迎。

M: 过去数年欧洲面对的经济厃机如何影响豪 华钟表如江诗丹顿的市场？目前业务已恢复 过来了吗 ? 去年夏天，江诗丹顿伦敦旗舰店开业，店内 并常驻有品牌制表师，让江诗丹顿的故事能 以较深入地诉说，为顾客提供全面体验和我 们的历史。我们的制造商亦正在扩充瑞士的 设施，以应付日益增长的需求。

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M: Please highlight other theme products or special products of Vacheron Constantin in 2015?

L: In Celebration of our 260th Anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has looked back at their archives and taken inspiration from our chronographs from the 20s. We have reinterpreted a number of references in a new collection named Harmony. One of these special pieces which will be the slimmest automatic chronograph movement on the market.

Additionally, we will be adding some stunning new pieces to Métiers d’Art Collections, including a new collection called Mécaniques Gravées, which is a hommage to the art of engraving of an actual movement.

There will be more launches throughout this landmark year, especially from our Métiers d’Art Collections – so watch this space!

Mécaniques Gravées Collection

Vacheron Constantin is making a remarkable return to its roots with two timepieces distinguished by movements that are entirely hand-engraved in keeping with classic ornamental watchmaking traditions. The plates and bridges are adorned with delicate floral motifs, inspired by the engravings gracing a pocket watch made and signed by Jean-Marc Vacheron himself in 1755.

M: 请重点介绍一下江诗丹顿 2015 年的其他 主题产品。

L: 今年正值江诗丹顿 260 周年庆，品牌回顾

了过去的档案纪录，并从 20 年代的计时腕 表中取得灵感。我们把当中很多灵感，重新 演绎成一个名为 Harmony 的新系列。其中 最特别的一款，将会是市面上最纤薄的自动 计时器。

江诗丹顿回归本源，两款全新的 Métiers

此外，Métiers d'Art 艺术大师系列亦会增添

d'Art 艺术大师腕表均搭载纯手工雕刻

多个令人惊艳的新款式，包括向雕刻艺术致

机芯，与传统制表的经典装饰艺术完美

敬的 Mécaniques Gravées 系列。

契合。夹板和桥板上装饰着精美的花卉 图 案， 灵 感 来 自 Jean-Marc Vacheron 在

适逢今年这个值得纪念的年份，江诗丹顿会

1755 年制造和签署的一枚怀表上采用的

推出更多新腕表系列，特别是 Métiers d'Art

精湛雕刻工艺。

艺术大师系列，大家要密切注意了。

00 Haute Horlogerie 高级腕表 34

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Harmony Collection Interview with Vacheron Constantin’s UK Brand Director The first seven models of the Harmony collection are issued in limited editions. These eminently contemporary timepieces feature a new cushion shape and a design inspired by one of the brand’s first wristwatch chronographs introduced in 1928.

At the heart of these generous cases with their reinvented aesthetic beat new calibres – entirely designed, developed and produced in-house– focused on monopusher chronographs.

Harmony 全新腕表系列首批 7 款限量发售，

江诗丹顿英国品牌总监专访 设计灵感源自品牌 1928 年问世的首枚计时

A first version equipped with a split-second function sets slimness records with its ultra-thin self-winding movement measuring just 5.20 mm thick, while a second model stages a fascinating tourbillon and the third variation is equipped with a pulsometric scale. The monopusher chronograph models are complemented by a ladies’ doubleM: MARQUESS L: Celinechronograph.

Larose, UK Brand Director pusher A trio of dual-time watches housing a new in-house movement rounds off this M: How do you anticipate the market response to unusual range of timepieces. the Year of Goat watch? What about the market

腕表，枕形外观新颕，充满当代气色。表壳 宽宏大体，以创新美学设计而成，配上由江 诗丹顿自行设计、研发和制造的全新机芯， 集中采用单一计时按钮。 此次推出的腕表，配备具双秒追针功能的创 纪录超薄自动上链机芯，厚度仅 5.2 毫米， 将高级钟表制造技术推向新高。第二款腕表 配有精美的陀飞轮。第三款腕表的设计与 1928 年的原型作品相似，表盘边缘带有脉搏 计刻度。单一按钮计时码表是最受追捧的复 杂功能腕表的代表作，制作工艺精密。江诗 丹顿还推出一款女装双按钮计时码表，此外 还有 3 款两地时间腕表，均配备江诗丹顿自 行研发及制造机芯，令这一非同凡向的腕表 系列更臻完美。

response towards the former two zodiacs watches in the series?

L: Following the success of the previous two models in the Legends of the Chinese Zodiac series, the snake and the horse, we anticipate this third release to be just as well received.

M: How has the economic crisis in Europe in the last few years affected the luxury watches’ market like Vacheron Constantin? Has it been recovered now?

L: Our Maison has continued to enjoy growth in the UK and only last summer, we opened our London flagship boutique with our own in-house watchmaker. This allows the Vacheron Constantin story to be told in depth, providing our customers with the full experience and history of our Maison.

Meanwhile, our Manufacture is expanding its watchmaking facilities in Switzerland, to meet with growing demand.

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Harmony Collection Interview with Vacheron Constantin’s UK Brand Director The first seven models of the Harmony collection are issued in limited editions. These eminently contemporary timepieces feature a new cushion shape and a design inspired by one of the brand’s first wristwatch chronographs introduced in 1928.

At the heart of these generous cases with their reinvented aesthetic beat new calibres – entirely designed, developed and produced in-house– focused on monopusher chronographs.

Harmony 全新腕表系列首批 7 款限量发售，

江诗丹顿英国品牌总监专访 设计灵感源自品牌 1928 年问世的首枚计时

A first version equipped with a split-second function sets slimness records with its ultra-thin self-winding movement measuring just 5.20 mm thick, while a second model stages a fascinating tourbillon and the third variation is equipped with a pulsometric scale. The monopusher chronograph models are complemented by a ladies’ doubleM: MARQUESS L: Celinechronograph.

Larose, UK Brand Director pusher A trio of dual-time watches housing a new in-house movement rounds off this M: How do you anticipate the market response to unusual range of timepieces. the Year of Goat watch? What about the market

腕表，枕形外观新颕，充满当代气色。表壳 宽宏大体，以创新美学设计而成，配上由江 诗丹顿自行设计、研发和制造的全新机芯， 集中采用单一计时按钮。 此次推出的腕表，配备具双秒追针功能的创 纪录超薄自动上链机芯，厚度仅 5.2 毫米， 将高级钟表制造技术推向新高。第二款腕表 配有精美的陀飞轮。第三款腕表的设计与 1928 年的原型作品相似，表盘边缘带有脉搏 计刻度。单一按钮计时码表是最受追捧的复 杂功能腕表的代表作，制作工艺精密。江诗 丹顿还推出一款女装双按钮计时码表，此外 还有 3 款两地时间腕表，均配备江诗丹顿自 行研发及制造机芯，令这一非同凡向的腕表 系列更臻完美。

response towards the former two zodiacs watches in the series?

L: Following the success of the previous two models in the Legends of the Chinese Zodiac series, the snake and the horse, we anticipate this third release to be just as well received.

M: How has the economic crisis in Europe in the last few years affected the luxury watches’ market like Vacheron Constantin? Has it been recovered now?

L: Our Maison has continued to enjoy growth in the UK and only last summer, we opened our London flagship boutique with our own in-house watchmaker. This allows the Vacheron Constantin story to be told in depth, providing our customers with the full experience and history of our Maison.

Meanwhile, our Manufacture is expanding its watchmaking facilities in Switzerland, to meet with growing demand.

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Harrods Chai Wu Interview: Chef Jason Seeming Wa 专访“财五”中餐厅总厨

A

modern Chinese restaurant, Chai Wu has just been opened on the fifth floor of Harrods in January. As one of the most anticipated restaurant launches of the year, Chef Jason Seeming Wa from Malaysia told us, they are working hard to make Chai Wu an ideal venue for Harrods shoppers and Londoners to dine regularly, and for friends and family to congregate and socialise.

The name of the restaurant sounds mysterious but it is easy to understand. “Chai” means “wealth” in Chinese and it is one part of Pan Chai restaurant name, which is Chai Wu’s sister restaurant in Harrods Food Hall. “Wu” means the number “five”.

The idea behind “Wu” was based on the fact that Chai Wu is located on the fifth floor of Harrods, also the five elements of the Chinese philosophy including wood, metal, water, earth and fire are incorporated into the restaurant design to create an elegant and welcoming dining setting.

With an environment that blends traditional with contemporary Chinese culture, Chai Wu incorporates diverse menu. When retrieving the inspiration of the menu, Chef Jason said, “As Chai Wu is a Modern Chinese restaurant and Ian Pengelley, Group Executive Chef and I are both experienced in Pan Asian cuisine, it only seemed right to do a menu that reflects that. We have a dish called the Red Snapper and we wanted to make a sauce that could represent the different areas from Asia. We came up with the three-flavour sauce. So apart from having incorporated the 5 elements of Chinese philosophy in our restaurant, we also make use of a variety of sauces.”

英 国 知 名 百 货 公 司 Harrods 的 5 楼，

在

一月终于迎来引颈以待的中式餐馆

Chai Wu。它堪称为今年最值得期待的新餐 厅之一。来自马来西亚的总厨 Jason Seeming Wa 称，他们正努力使餐厅成为可供 Harrods 购物者和伦敦人固定用餐，与朋友和家人聚 集及社交的理想场所。 Chai Wu 这 个 名 字 听 起 来 有 点 诡 秘， 但 其 实 很 容 易 理 解。 “Chai”在中文意指 “财富”，同时也是 Chai Wu 在 Harrods 的 姊 妹餐厅 Pan Chai 名字的一部分。“Wu”在 中文意指“五”，代表它在 Harrods 位处的 5 楼，也包括被纳入餐厅设计，以创造一个 优雅丶温馨用餐环境的 5 个中国哲学要素 ——木丶金丶水丶火丶土。 Chai Wu 的环境融合传统与当代中国文化， 它的餐单同样多元。当被问到餐单的设计灵 感，总厨 Jason 说，“由于 Chai Wu 是现代 中式餐馆，而集团行政总厨 Ian Pengelley 与 我都对烹调泛亚美膳甚有经验，一份多元化 的泛亚美膳餐单正好反映这些。例如我们餐 单有一道红鲷鱼菜谱，我们想做出能代表亚 洲不同地区的酱料，结果我们调出 3 种风味 的酱料。因此，餐厅除了纳入中国哲学的 5 个元素，还使用多种酱料”。

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M: MARQUESS J: Chef Jason Seeming Wa M: What are the specialities of the dim sum and main menu at Chai Wu? J: Chai Wu’s main menu specialities are Waguy puff, Beijing Duck, Waguy steak with black pepper sauce, coconut prawns and green tea fondant. We also have a great selection of freshly made dim sum, which are prepared from traditional recipes using a mixture of high quality ingredients. Our specialities are sea bass with gold leaf, Lobster dumpling topped with Beluga caviar and seafood with black truffle dumpling.

M: What are the must-have dishes you recommend and why? What are the signature dishes of Chai Wu? J: The grill chefs making delicious Kobe beef is something I highly recommend. We are the only Chinese restaurant in London to bring Kobe beef to the menu. Apart from the Kobe beef we also have the Beijing duck as another signature dish. It’s a typical Chinese dish made for sharing but we’ve added a few more sauces and Mantou buns for a more contemporary taste.

M: Any special menu or offer for the Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day? J: Our Valentine’s menu will be available on the 14 February and features two-flavour soup of chicken and sweet corn crab with gold leaf and truffle, roasted Chilean sea bass with Champagne and honey sauce and a special white and dark chocolate fondant.

Our special Chinese New Year set menu is priced at the Chinese lucky number £88 per person and includes Chinese favourites such as goldfish dumpling and Traditional New Year steamed Chilean sea bass.

38 00 Fine Dining 精巧美膳

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M: Chai Wu 的点心和主菜式有什么特别 ?

J: Chai Wu 的特选菜式包括和牛饺丶北京烤

1

鸭丶黑椒酱和牛扒丶椰子虾和绿茶软糖。我 们也有一系列选用高质食材做的新鲜即制传 统点心。我们的特色主菜包括金箔鲈鱼丶龙 虾饺配 Beluga 鱼子酱和海鲜配黑松露饺子。 M: 你最推荐哪一道菜？ Chai Wu 的招牌菜 又是什么？ J: 我极力推荐烧烤厨师制作的美味神户牛

2

柳。我们是伦敦唯一一间把神户牛柳引进菜 单的中国餐厅。除了神户牛柳，我们另一道 招牌菜为北京烤鸭。这是一道典型可供分尝 的中式菜，然我们增加了酱料种类，以及馒 头包子，就为它平添了一种比较现代的口 味。 M: 你们为情人节和新春推出了什么特别餐 单或优惠？ J: 我们在 2 月 14 日将推出情人节餐单，包

3

括有两款口味的鸡汤和金箔甜玉米蟹配松露 丶香槟配蜂蜜酱烤智利鲈鱼，以及特制的黑 白巧克力软糖。 而我们特制的农历新年套餐，每位定价是采 用中国人视为幸运数字的 88 英镑，菜式包 括华人至爱金鱼饺和传统新年清蒸智利鲈 鱼。

1.Three bone rack of lamb with Szechuan sauce 2.BBQ wagyu and gold leaf puff 3.Stuffed Alaskan king crab legs 4.Beijing duck served with cucumber, spring onions and hoisin sauce

4

Fine Dining 精巧美膳 039 0

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Royal Warrants 皇家认证

Pride of Royal Warrants 皇家认证的骄傲

W

hen walking along the streets in the United Kingdom, you may find some shops displaying a crest above the door, sometimes there are two or even three. They are called “Royal Warrants”, which are granted by the Royal Family as a sign of commitment to the highest standards of service, quality and excellence. There are currently about 850 warrant holders.

Only The Queen, The Duke of Edinburgh or The Prince of Wales can grant Royal Warrants. Each of them can grant only one warrant to any individual business, but a business may hold warrants from more than one member of the Royal Family. In the late 18th Century, Royal tradesmen began to display the Royal Arms on their premises and stationery.

But it was Queen Victoria who ensured that Royal Warrants gained the prestige they enjoy today.

A company must keep doing business with the Royal Household for at least five years to be considered on the warrant grant list. Then the company needs approval from the Lord Chamberlain, the head of the Royal Household and chairman of the Royal Household Tradesmen’s Warrants Committee. Royal Warrants are automatically reviewed by the Committee one year before expiry every five years.

在英国街头，经常会看到一些商铺门

走

口上悬一个标章，有些甚至有两至三

个标章。这个标章是英国独有的“皇家认证 许可”，代表这些商号不但供应产品或提供 服务给女王、爱丁堡公爵或威尔斯亲王使 用，而且品质亦获得他们赞赏和肯定。目前 全英约有 850 个商号获得“皇家认证”标章。

只有英女王、爱丁堡公爵或威尔斯亲王有权 颁发皇家认证。他们每人只能颁发一个认证 给某个商家，但一个商号却可以同时得到超 过一个皇家认证。18 世纪末，英国皇家商人 开始在他们的物业及文具上展示皇家徽章。 然皇家认证获得今天的声誉，背后少不了维 多利亚女王的发扬光大。 一间公司要持续与某位王室成员经商最少 5 年，才会获考虑授予认证之列。而即使王室 成员再喜爱某商品或服务，仍要得到主管皇 家内廷的宫务大臣兼皇家商人认证委员会主 席 Chamberlain 勋爵批准，该公司才能获得 认证。在皇家认证的“5 年期限”到期前一 年，委员会便会自动对其展开续期复检。

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Dege & Skinner 150th Anniversary 订制军服民装百年店

As the holder of 3 Royal Warrants:HM Queen Elizabeth II (1984), HM The Sultan of Oman (1981) and HM The King of Bahrain (2003), Dege & Skinner remains in family ownership. Current MD William Skinner is the fifth generation to join the tailoring trade and the third consecutive member of his family to hold the title of Managing Director.

“Tips to distinguish a Savile Row bespoke suit from others could be endless,” William Skinner hinted, “but some of our favourite ways to tell a Savile Row Bespoke suit from a mass produced factory-made item would be:

.

A unique label is sewn in each bespoke item produced by the Member of Savile Row Bespoke Association, and the Cutters initials and date the piece was finished are stated;

.

The way the sleeve fits into the shoulder. It’s an art to get this right so the arm hangs elegantly;

.

Whether the garment can be reasonably altered with an individual’s figure over time.”

服 家 族 公 司 Dege & Skinner 成 立 150

周年。位于世界知名 Savile Row，公司以专 门度身订制军服和平民服装驰名。 1953 年 6 月， 现 任 主 席 Michael Skinner 为 英女王在西敏寺加冕的 Peers of the Realm 裁 衣。Phitwell 猎装外衣是由 William 的祖父在 1938 年首先设计，现已成为注册设计并仍 流行至今，它还被 The Rake 杂志形容为一个 “设计经典”。 拥有皇家认证 3 个：英女皇伊利沙伯二世 (1984)、阿曼苏丹国王 (1981) 和巴林国王 (2003) 的 Dege & Skinner, 现仍由家族拥有。 现任常务董事 William Skinner 是第五代加入 裁缝商的行业，且是其家族中第三个连续继 承此职衔的成员。 William Skinner 透 露 , 要 分 辨 由 Savile Row 量身订做西服与其他西服的贴士很多，最常 用以区分工厂大量生产服装的要点包括 :

.

In June 1953, current Chairman Michael Skinner dressed the Peers of the Realm for Her Majesty The Queen’s Coronation at Westminster Abbey. “Phitwell” shooting coat was first designed by William’s grand father in 1938, now a registered design and still popular today, with “The Rake” magazine describing it as a “design classic”.

年是享誉盛名的皇家认证度身订制西

今

Savile Row 量身订做协会成员所制的衣服，

都会缝上独特标志，剪裁师的名字缩写和衣 服完成日期同時會被标上； 将手袖缝上膊位的方法如何做得妥贴、令

.

015 marks the 150th anniversary of Dege Skinner, Holder of the Royal Warrant for its bespoke tailoring and located on world renowned Savile Row. It specialises in civilian and military clothing.

手臂位悬垂得优雅是一门艺术，对于懂得分 辨的人，从一段距离外亦看得出来； 究竟衣服能否按一个人的身形而在一段时

.

2

间后作出修改 : 若那是大量生产布料會裁剪 得过近缝口，改衫是不可能的。

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Exclusive Interview with Managing Director, William Skinner 常务董事独家专訪

William Skinner 告 诉 我 们，Savile Row 具 约 200 年历史，并继续以量身订制男士西服闻 名，表示其仍是保持高级水平和成为其他同 行仿效追随的标准。由于他们缝制西服的 很多方法仍然不变，所以今天的学徒仍在学 习着 150 年前的传统技巧。作为 Savile Row

William Skinner told us in his inter iew, Savile Row is around 200 years or so old and continues to hold an enviable reputation for its bespoke men’s tailoring, suggesting that standards remain high and continue to act as a benchmark for others to emulate. As lots of the ways they act ally make bespoke clothing remains unchanged, so apprentices working with them today will be lear ing some of the same techniques as someone would have done 150 years ago. As a founding member of Savile Row Bespoke Association they invest heavily in t aining to ensure the next generation of cutters and tailors have the necessar ex er ise to continue the t adition.

“A few years ago we star ed to feel that there was an interest in bespoke tailoring and lux r products in general from people living in mainland China, so we ran an adver ising campaig there, as well as targeting younger Chinese via print titles that are published here in the UK. This younger generation can then advise their iends and family of where to shop for men’s tailoring when they visit.”

William revealed. “We’ve star ed to see the ret r on this invest ent with an increasing number of customers on a visit from China walking into our shop at number 10 Savile Row to place orders for bespoke clothing and to buy accessories.”

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Bespoke Association 的创会成员，他们注重投 资在训练下一代可以承接传统技术的裁剪手 和裁缝。 他透露，“数年前我们开始感到中国大陆的

“We’re excited to say that we’ll be launching a webstore during this, our 150th anniversar year.” he announced.

居民对量身订制裁缝西服和奢华产品萌生兴

“在悠长的历史中，Dege & Skinner 曾为英军的

趣，我们便开始到当地进行广告宣传运动，

多位元帅裁制军服，这是可为英军缝制军服的

并通过在英国的印刷大字标题，针对较年轻

最高级别。我们也为在服役的王室年轻成员

的华人顾客。这些年轻华人便可向家人和朋

们缝制军服，如威廉王子和哈里王

友建议到那里裁缝男士西服。我们现开始见

子，以至为他们缝制在杜莎

到投资回报——有越来越多来自中国的顾客

腊像馆内肖像的制

进入 Savile Row 我们的店铺订制西服和购买

服。”

配饰。”他表示，“我们很兴奋地公布，我 们将会在 150 周年推出网上商铺。”

“In our long histor we’ve made clothes for numerous Field Marshalls in The British Ar y.

This is the highest rank possible in the British Ar y. We make the militar unifor s for the younger members of the Royal Family who are in active ser ice so have made militar unifor s for TRH Prince William and Har . As well as making a unifor for a Royal wax ork for display in Madame Tussauds!” he added.

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William Skinner 告 诉 我 们，Savile Row 具 约 200 年历史，并继续以量身订制男士西服闻 名，表示其仍是保持高级水平和成为其他同 行仿效追随的标准。由于他们缝制西服的 很多方法仍然不变，所以今天的学徒仍在学 习着 150 年前的传统技巧。作为 Savile Row Bespoke Association 的创会成员，他们注重投 资在训练下一代可以承接传统技术的裁剪手 和裁缝。 他透露，“数年前我们开始感到中国大陆的 居民对量身订制裁缝西服和奢华产品萌生兴

“在悠长的历史中，Dege & Skinner 曾为英军的

趣，我们便开始到当地进行广告宣传运动，

多位元帅裁制军服，这是可为英军缝制军服的

并通过在英国的印刷大字标题，针对较年轻

最高级别。我们也为在服役的王室年轻成员

的华人顾客。这些年轻华人便可向家人和朋

们缝制军服，如威廉王子和哈里王

友建议到那里裁缝男士西服。我们现开始见

子，以至为他们缝制在杜莎

到投资回报——有越来越多来自中国的顾客

腊像馆内肖像的制

进入 Savile Row 我们的店铺订制西服和购买

服。”

配饰。”他表示，“我们很兴奋地公布，我 们将会在 150 周年推出网上商铺。”

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Dege shirt collar patterns 衬衫领口纸样

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Dege shirt bands 衬衫制带

11/12/2014 2:25:45 PM

Permanent Shirt Maker 常驻的衬衫裁缝 As Savile Row’s only permanent bespoke shirtmaker, Master Cutter Robert Whittaker and his apprentice Tom Bradbury work in the shop at number 10 Savile Row, cutting shirt patterns by hand. “We produce clothes of timeless elegance rather than being led entirely by the latest fashions, but sometimes the two overlap.” William quoted an example, only recently a movie starring British acting legend Michael Caine reinvigorated the double-breasted suit.

Like most of the tailors on Savile Row, they travel overseas to measure and fit customers with multiple trips per year scheduled to countries in Europe and the USA. 95% of their business is menswear, but also has a small percentage of female customers. 作为 Savile Row 唯一的常驻衬衫缝制商，剪 裁 大 师 Rob Whittaker 与 学 徒 Tom Bradbury 在 Savile Row 10 号工作，用手工剪裁衬衫纸 样。William 说，“我们裁缝衣服讲究恒久 优雅，而非完全由最新时尚潮流引领，有时 两者会重叠。如最近英国明星迈克尔·凯恩 主演的影片，将双襟西装再度带起热潮。” 一如 Savile Row 上的大部分裁缝，他们每年 定期出访欧美国家为顾客订制西服。他们的 生意 95% 是男装，但亦有少量女顾客。

Handcut by knife 用刀剪裁

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Shirt components 组合衬衫

11/12/2014 2:25:45 PM

ŠREUTERS

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Fashion 时装

Aspirations to London Fashion Week AW15 2015 秋冬伦敦时装周引颈以待

H

ere comes an exciting news not only for the fashionistas, but also for everyone in town – the London Fashion Week will be back within weeks between 20-24 February. While talented designers are going to showcase their stunning collections on London Fashion Week AW15, the audience are expected to be dazzled by catwalk shows, presentations and various surrounding events.

There are ten of London’s brightest emerging talents who received sponsorship to showcase their AW15 collections at London Fashion Week.

NEWGEN designers are identified by their creativity, strong design aesthetic and point of difference. For Autumn/Winter 2015, the Catwalk sponsorship recipients are 1205, Ashley Williams, Marques’Almeida and Ryan Lo. The Presentation sponsorship goes to Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz and Molly Goddard whereas the Exhibition sponsorship recipients are Marta Jakubowski and Sadie Williams.

Ashley Williams and Danielle Romeril are so excited to be selected as a part of NEWGEN. They both named it as one of their greatest achievements.

Danielle Romeril elaborated her collection, “The starting point was a wild camping trip in the mountains of Wicklow in Ireland, the beauty and isolation of the surroundings along with gathering fire wood to cook dinner and breakfast started my imagination running. The collection is based on a fictional gang of girls, they live out in the wilderness in a place halfway between Ireland and the Deep South in America.”

2

015 伦敦秋冬时装周的届临，不单令时 尚达人兴奋莫名，也让大众拭目以待。

才华洋溢的设计师将于 2 月 20 日至 24 日举 行的 2015 伦敦秋冬时装周期间，向外界展 示他们令人惊艳的作品，而观众则可通过走 秀表演、演讲和各种周边活动，沉醉于多彩 多姿的时装世界里。 在 2015 伦敦秋冬时装周上，有 10 个伦敦最 耀目的时装界新秀获赞助参与展出。他们都 具备创意、强大的设计美感和独特风格， 才能被选中成为“新锐设计师赞助计划” 一 份 子。 获 走 秀 赞 助 的 包 括 1205、Ashley Williams、Marques’Almeida 和 Ryan Lo。 获 展 示 赞 助 的 有 Claire Barrow、Danielle Romeril、 Faustine Steinmetz 和 Molly Goddard。 而 Marta Jakubowski 和 Sadie Williams 则 获 得 展 览 赞 助。 对于能获选为“新锐设计师赞助计划”一份 子，Ashley Williams 与 Danielle Romeril 都 表 示很振奋，认为是她们人生中最伟大成就之 一。Danielle Romeril 进一步阐释自已的作品， 指“出发点是源自一次爱尔兰威克洛山脉的 野外露营之旅，与世隔绝的环境分外优美， 用收集的柴火煮晚餐和早餐后就开始我的想 像。该设计系列的灵感来自一群虚构的女 孩，她们生活于爱尔兰和美洲南方腹地之间 的原野”。

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London Fashion Weekend 伦敦时装周末 London Fashion Weekend, the biggest biannual consumer fashion showcase is coming. It is an irresistible chance for you to experience first-hand insider knowledge and style advice from London Fashion Week’s most famous British brands.

Designers’ products shopping, catwalk shows, popup shops, hair & beauty and educational panels from leading industry experts are expected without denial.

While London Fashion Week is a trade event for fashion industry professionals who must register or got invitation to attend, London Fashion Weekend is open to the public who would like to shop from the high profile to the emerging. It is organised as the consumer event that follows directly on from London Fashion Week, using the same exhibition and catwalk venue.

Date for London Fashion Weekend: 26 February – 1 March 2015

英国每年两次、专为消费者而设的最大型时 尚展——伦敦时装周末快将举行了 ! 这是一 个可从英国最著名的品牌，接触到第一手行 内知识和时尚贴士的不容错失机会。 伦敦时装周是一个专为时尚界业内人士而设 的贸易活动，所有参加者必须登记或获邀请 才有机会参加。但想寻找和购买新进设计师， 以至高调品牌设计的顾客也不用失望，伦敦 时装周末沿用跟伦敦时装周相同的展览和时 装表演场地，但就开放予公众人士参与。

China Designer Xiao Li Photographer Anya Holdstock

伦敦时装周末举行日期 : 2 月 26 日至 3 月 1 日

www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk

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Emerging Fashion Designer Exhibition 新进时装设计师展 The annual emerging international fashion designer exhibition, which is the largest public fashion exhibition of its kind, will present 130 emerging designers from 30 countries in 2015. It presents the audience a first glimpse of some of the most exciting new international designers working today. Held at Brewer Street Car Park in London between 20-24 February, the exhibition is open to public free of charge.

The exhibition covers four continents, with each country presenting a curated static exhibition.

This year, the highlights include installations representing the processes of regeneration and development in Columbia, ready to wear in a street scene and a night out in Poland; collections that explore two extremes of contemporary fashion in Japan, reinterpret the fabrics, print and shapes of Nigerian traditional costumes etc.

British Council, China Section

一年一度的新进国际时装设计师展，将包罗

这次展览涵盖四大洲，每个国家分别呈现一

来自 30 个国家的 130 名新进设计师参展，

个独立的静态策划展表现作品。今年的亮点

是同类展览中最大型的。观众可以先睹为

包括代表哥伦比亚再生与发展过程、波兰街

快，欣赏到一些新进国际设计师令人兴奋的

头和晚上外出服装；也有探讨当代时尚两极

作品。展览将于 2 月 20 日至 24 日期间，在

的日本时装，以及重新演释尼日利亚传统服

伦敦布鲁尔街停车场开放予公众免费参加。

饰的布料、花纹和形状等服装系列。

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Exclusive Interview with HOCKLEY’s Creative Director 专访创意总监 Izzet Ers

W

hen Supermodel Kate Moss wore a fox fur coat to the Louis Vuitton Fashion Show in Paris early this year, it has ignited the eternal fur debate: to wear fur, or not to wear fur.

Izzet admits, despite the external factor, there is a big demand for Hockley furs at this moment, the business is definitely on the up and the market is the same in general. Many young customers from Russia and China come to Hockley for stylish but edgy piece of fur that they can’t find elsewhere.

As all the furs stocked at Hockley are ethically farmed following strict governmental guidelines and feature the Origin Assured Label, it helps the customers to know the source of the fur they are buying.

When being asked about his feelings towards Faux fur, he thinks that it is often created as the demand for real fur is so high.

Some can look great but the feel is totally different. Hockley furs are beautifully made, and above all warmth which can’t be said for manufactured Faux fur jackets.

He likes to design clothings with fur as it is versatile, and there are so many things to do with it. From dyeing to frosting, playing with layering and textures, he can never get bored.

模 Kate

名

Moss 今

年初身穿一件 狐皮大衣出席 Louis Vuitton 巴黎时装秀， 再次掀起了应 穿皮草与否的 持久争论。英 国设计和零售 皮草先躯 Hockley 的创意总监 Izzet Ers，跟 我们分享他和行內对皮草时装一些看法。 Izzet 告诉我们，尽管有些外在因素，外界对 于 Hockley 皮草一直需求甚殷，业务正在上 升，总体来说，皮草市场都在上升。许多来 自俄罗斯和中国的年轻顾客，都在寻找其 他地方找不到、时尚又前卫的皮草。 当被问及他对人造皮草的感觉，他 认为人造皮草的出现，是要填补真 皮草供不应求的空隙。有些人造皮 草很好看，但摸上手的感觉却完全 不同。Hockley 的皮草美观而且温暖， 然人造皮草外套就未必如此。 他喜欢设计皮草服装，因为皮草有 多种用途可以变化，有很多可 以尝试之处。从染色到雾面处 理，至跟层次和质感打交道， 皮草永远都不会让他生厌。

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M: MARQUESS

E: Izzet Ers

M: Please highlight and explain your concept of design in the latest collection. What are the inspirations?

E: Earth is our Pre-fall collection and is about landing back to earth! We have contour lines and natural geological shapes that are translated into suede inserts in the pelts in the shape of waves, lines etc. Our approach was more tailored this season, with a 70s feel – think Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver.

There are long gilets to small boleros, short sleeve coats to cropped jackets that transition easily from day to night. The colours tone are very earthy.

The mix of furs this season is unusual, mixing mink with lamb, lamb with rabbit, and different types of fox together so that it creates textures, and enhances the 3-d effect and tactile feel of fur.

M: How many different types of animal fur does Hockley use for making clothing and accessories? In terms of design, what are the different approaches to handle them?

E: Mink, silver fox, blue fox, rex rabbit, beaver, nutria, raccoon, different types of lamb. They all have different qualities: hair length, curly, straight, spikey or shiny/matt.

The approach totally depends on the shapes and different techniques which makes them lighter and more textural.

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M: 请重点介绍你的最新设计系列，并细释一下灵感来源。 E: “地球”是我们的秋季前系列，并即将登陆地球！我们把等高 线和自然地质形状，转化为毛皮上插入猄皮的波浪和线条等。今 季我们的做法有点像度身订做时装，是回溯 到 70 年代的时代感——试想像 Jodie Foster 在《的士司机》内的造型。 我们有长马甲以至短外套，短袖外套至 裁剪夹克，方便人们从日间的轻 装转至晚上的衣著。色调方面则 倾向大地色调。 今季的皮草配搭并不寻常，包括 混合水貂皮与羊皮，羊皮与兔皮， 以及不同类型的狐狸皮的配搭， 令皮草产生质感，加强立体感和 毛皮的触感。

M: Hockley 利用了多少种不同类型的动

物皮毛来制作服装及衣饰配件？在设 计方面，又需要采用哪些不同方法来 处理？

E: 水貂、银狐、蓝狐、獭兔、海狸、

海狸鼠、貉子、不同类型的羊皮毛， 它们的品质不同，毛发长度不一，或 直或卷曲，或有光泽或呈哑光。要使 它们变得更轻，更有质感，制法取决 于皮毛形状，并要采用不同的技术。

Fashion 时装 055 0

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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has been producing timepieces of lasting value since 1868. As one of the world’s leading brands in the luxury watch segment, IWC crafts masterpieces of haute horlogerie at their finest, combining supreme precision with exclusive design.

沙夫豪森 IWC 万国表 瑞 士 制 表 商 沙 夫 豪 森 IWC 万 国 表 , 自 1868 年以来不断制作具恒久价值的腕表。 作为豪华腕表领域的世界领先品牌之一， IWC 万国表糅合精准无比的性能和独一无 二的设计，打造体现高级制表艺术最高境 界的典范之作。

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Haute Horlogerie 高端钟表

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IWC

1st UK Boutique Lands on Mayfair

首间英国精品店梅菲尔开业

过 4 个月的装修，IWC 万国表行

经

在英国的首间精品店，2 月初于梅

菲尔的新邦德街开幕。融合建筑物的特 点丶坐落位置的传统和独特之处，精品 店内的艺术装饰元素，令这间精品店更 显与众不同。 品牌最不凡的腕表，包括专为伦敦新店 设计制作的 Big Pilot’s 特别版，以及新推

F

ollowing a four-month build, IWC Schaffhausen opens its first UK boutique in New Bond Street, Mayfair London in February of 2015. Adapting to the architectural style of the building, its heritage and the uniqueness of its location, the Art Deco elements make the boutique entirely special.

出 的 Portofino Midsize 镶 钻 系 列， 均 在 著名法籍灯光设计师 Ponctuelle 的全新 照明系统下，闪照出耀眼光芒。 精品店一楼还有万国制表师常驻，提供 保养建议和维修服务。二楼则设有会员 贵宾厅，提供独一无二的尊贵体验。

The most exceptional collection of IWC timepieces includes a special edition Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar manufactured exclusively for the IWC London boutique and the newly launched diamond-set collection Portofino Midsize. Both are perfectly lit under the all-new lighting concept by renowned French lighting designers Ponctuelle.

An IWC watchmaker has been positioned on the first floor offering maintenance advice and servicing while a members club lounge is situated on the second floor offering an exclusive experience.

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Special Edition

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Legacy on the Wrist 盛载历史精粹的腕表

O

ne of the most prestigious watch brands in the world, Montblanc, has lately introduced their limited timepiece “Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Vasco da Gama Limited Timepiece 60”, at the 25th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. This sumptuous timepiece stuns the watch connoisseur with its craftsmanship, innovation and aesthetic.

This version of the ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph is the flagship of the Vasco da Gama Limited Editions. Only 60 pieces are produced. One can be hinted that the inspiration came from Vasco da Gama. In 1497 to 1498, the Portuguese voyager on his flagship São Gabriel led his fleet to set sail from Portugal, via a sea route of Southern Africa and reached the Indian coast ultimately. Vasco da Gama’s pioneering spirit and skilful navigation thus inspired Montblanc to create this heritage collection.

The series is limited to 60 watches in reference to the 60-man crew of the São Gabriel. The watch was designed in many ways to affiliate the brave legend and to upfront the spirit of precision. For example, the upper part embellished with a slice of aventurine, dyed dark blue, catches the eye on the dial, where numerous small dots emulate the starry sky in reference to the night sky of the southern hemisphere that guided the voyage. This exceptional watch with black alligator-skin strap and in a 18K white gold case, is certified by the strict Montblanc Laboratory test 500.

球知名的高端品牌万宝龙，于第 25 届

全

日内瓦高级钟表展上，发表其最新限

量 腕 表 系 列“ 万 宝 龙 传 承 Chronométrie 系 列外置陀飞轮瓦斯科·达·伽马计时码表 限量版 60 枚”。凭藉精湛手艺、创新技术 与极致美感，此非凡腕表成为一时佳话。 这款外置陀飞轮计时码表，是瓦斯科·达· 伽马限量版的旗舰产品，限量发行 60 枚。 从系列名称可以猜想到，这枚尊贵腕表的创 作灵感来自瓦斯科·达·伽马。追溯 1497 至 1498 年，这名葡萄牙航海家由家乡出发， 绕过南非海峡，最终长征至印度海港，达成 创举。此葡萄牙船队勇闯先河的精神与上乘 的航海技术，刚好与万宝龙力臻完美的宗旨 相合。 此系列限量发行 60 枚，象征圣加布里埃尔 号的 60 位船员。腕表设计上在各处都向此 传奇致敬，让配戴者时刻铭记精诚所至的信 念。看表盘上部装饰一片砂金石，染成深蓝 色，在表盘上格外瞩目，而无数小圆点代表 繁星灿烂的夜空，象征指引舰队前行的南半 球夜空。此不朽之作附以黑色精制鳄鱼皮带 及 18K 白金表壳，每枚均获得万宝龙 500 小 时性能测试认证。

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China Brand Ambassadors actress Guey Lun Mei and two-time Olympic badminton champion Lin Dan

万宝龙中国大使—— 女星桂纶美和两届奥运会羽毛球冠军林丹

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Fine jewellery 精致珠宝

Emerald Greenfire is Forever

永恒的翡翠珍藏

O

ne of the most impor ant new developments of Boodles in recent years has been Wonderland, a high jeweller collection representing the pinnacle of the brand’s craſtsmanship and creativit . The collection’s Raindance ring has been chosen to appear in the V&A’s permanent collection while the Emerald Greenfire suite was featured in a Channel 4 documentar .

B

`

Raindance Ring

oodles 近年其中一项最重要发展是 Wonderland 珠宝系列，象征其品牌工 艺与创意攀上的颠峰之作。珍藏品之一“雨中舞”钻戒获选入 V&A 博物

馆的永久珍藏，而“火绿翡翠”则被选入 Channel 4 一辑纪录片内。

Emerald “Greenfire”

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Fine jewellery 精致珠宝

Raindance Ring

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British Quintessential International Reputed Jewellery 英式典范珠宝世家 Boodles is a family business with an international reputation for excellence and innovation combined with traditional British style. Boodles creates unique jewellery that combines traditional craft values with an awareness of fashion and a sense of adventure and fun. The company has been dedicated to exquisite craftsmanship and service since it was founded in Liverpool in 1798, and has remained a family-owned company ever since, spanning six generations. Pieces by Boodles are often seen adorning leading actresses such as Dame Helen Mirren, Kate Winslet and Emma Thompson, as well as less well-known but equally glamorous customers.

The company is currently run by brothers Nicholas and Michael Wainwright, together with the next generation of the family, Jody Wainwright and James Amos. They have taken the company to a new level in recent decades by assembling a brilliant in-house design team and putting emphasis on acquiring exquisite gemstones. They also brought in celebrated architect Eva Jiricna to transform each store into the gleaming confections of steel and glass that we know today.

There are now five showrooms in London, including a concession in Harrods’ Fine Jewellery Hall and a boutique in The Savoy Hotel. In 2015, Boodles Bond Street flagship store is being expanded to 2,500 square feet, with luxurious VIP rooms, a stunning chandelier and a swirling staircase, as well as a dedicated engagement ring area where dreams can come true. There are also three showrooms in the North West of England – a precious link to the company’s roots in a globalised age – and one in Dublin.

Boodles 是以卓越和革新传统英式风格而扬 名国际的珠宝世家。其所创设的珠宝独特， 结合了传统工艺价值与时尚的触觉，加添冒 险与玩乐的色彩。公司自 1798 年在利物浦 创立，一直注重于精湛的手工艺和服务，且 自此横跨六代，至今仍为家族拥有公司。 Boodles 珠宝经常可见配戴于著名女主角演 员， 如 Dame Helen Mirren、Kate Winslet 与 Emma Thompson，以至名声较次的星光熠熠 顾客。 公 司 现 由 Nicholas 和 Michael Wainwright 兄 弟，与家族第二代 Jody Wainwright 及 James Amos 共同经营，最近还召集了一支优秀的 公司设计团队，着重运用精湛的宝石，将公 司带进一个新里程。他们还引进星级建筑师 Eva Jiricna 将每间店铺改装为现在大家认识 的闪闪发光的钢与玻璃装饰。 Boodles 目前在伦敦有 5 间展厅，包括位于 Harrods 高 级 珠 宝 大 堂 与 Savoy 酒 店。2015 年，更扩展邦德街旗舰店至 2500 平方英尺， 内设装有豪华水晶灯和旋转楼梯的贵宾室及 订婚戒指专区。公司在英格兰西北部的公司 亦内设 3 间展厅，以及都柏林一间。

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Never Seen Quite Like This 罕见难得美钻 At Boodles they always keep their eyes open for beautiful diamonds, but really good ones are very hard to find.

Weighing just over 20 carats, this heart shaped diamond is literally cut to perfection. “D” colour, flawless both inside and out, excellent polish and symmetry and classified as a “type IIA”. Type IIA diamonds are the most chemically pure, adding an incredible fire to the diamond.

Nothing has been seen quite like this before.

Boodles 不断积极物色漂亮的钻石，但真正好的并不易找。 重 20 卡，这个心形钻石的切割完美无瑕。“D”色泽，内外 均显无瑕，打磨平衡与极致，被列为 IIA 级。IIA 级钻石是化 学度最纯，通过火炼，是难得一见的罕有钻石。

Unveiled The First Boodles Watch

首推“花绽”腕表 Boodles recently unveiled the first ever Boodles watch, inspired by the stylishly feminine “Blossom” range. Individually created by hand in Bienna, Switzerland, The Boodles Watch fuses the finest craftsmanship with the very best of British design from Boodles Head of Design, Rebecca Hawkins.

During the creative process, Rebecca has used one of Boodles most popular and iconic jewellery collections, Blossom, as her inspiration. The new watch is delicate and feminine, combining diamonds, mother of pearl, white and rose gold to create what is believed to be a truly special, as well as functional, piece of high jewellery.

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Boodles 最 近 开 拓 了 历 来 首 只 Boodles 腕表，灵感源自女性风味浓厚的“花 绽 ” 系 列。Boodles 设 计 主 管 Rebecca Hawkins 融合英国最精致的手工艺与最 佳设计，在瑞士 Bienna 用人手逐个创 设出 Boodles 新拓展的腕表系列。 在创造过程中，Rebecca 运用 Boodles 其 中一个最受欢迎而具象征意义的珠 宝藏品“花绽”为灵感，新的腕表 精致而女性化，结合钻石、玳瑁、 白金与玫瑰金，创制岀一件真正特 别而又实用的高级珠宝。

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+44 (0) 1428 648180 •

ASPINALOFLONDON.COM

T H E MARYLEBONE “ T ECH ” Option for built-in charger pack to recharge your tech gadgets on the go

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Accessories 配件

Made to be Loved for a Lifetime 经典皮包 终身爱戴

“A

spinal of London celebrates English summertime: rain drops, thunderclouds, umbrellas and all. There is nothing gloomy about this summer storm with flashes of neon and metallic, dreamy watercolour prints and effortlessly classic silhouettes.”

This season, the design team has focused on the refinement of the bestselling silhouettes, with a firm belief that Aspinal products should be designed to be loved for a lifetime. The team rigorously challenged the function of each key silhouette, creating a crafted collection inspired by the brand’s own customers. This focus on practicality and continuity has been playfully juxtaposed with a bold use of colour, combining soft nudes, vivid neons and saccharine metallics to re-work the classic Aspinal icons.

The quintessential English luxury lifestyle brand, Aspinal of London creates covetable contemporary classics for women and men that are made to be loved for a lifetime.

Hepburn Mini in Metallic Pink

“A

spinal of London 为英国变幻莫测的夏 季，无论是下雨、雷暴、带伞种种，

也带来欣悦……提着 Aspinal 手袋恍如霓虹 灯与金属的闪烁光芒、梦幻般的水彩图案、 不着痕跡的经典轮廓，令今夏不再阴沉。” 本季，设计团队专注于精修细化最畅销的 经典轮廓。抱持着 Aspinal 产品设计应一生 受到爱戴的坚定信念，团队就品牌本身顾客 启发灵感而创设的精巧工艺系列的每个主要 轮廓的功能，作出严格挑战。这种注重实用 性、持续性与大胆色彩的运用，结合软调的 裸色，生动的霓虹灯与糖果金属色把玩设 计，将经典的 Aspinal 图标重新定调。 英国典范奢華生活品牌 Aspinal of London， 为男士和女士创制可以爱戴一生的令人钦羨 的当代经典袋包。

A Tote in Mustard

Royal Warrants 皇家认证 67 00

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Not The Way of Everyone Else

与别不同的个性表现

V

英

国奢华手机品牌 Vertu，最适合喜欢表

Vertu 以艺术追求和用家为先见著，因 Vertu

现个性与亮丽的人士。它为其手机系

认为，手机可说是我们最贴身、最频密使用

列提供选择繁多的个人化服务，从雕刻、字

的随身用品之一。然现在手机产品都以百万

母组合和订制一部属于自己的 Vertu。更重

计大量生产，用家几乎没有机会参与制造一

er , the English lux r mobile phone company, is creating ser ices for whose who are looking for something individualised and presentable. It offers a wide selection of personalised ser ices across its mobile phone collections, ranging from eng aving, monog amming and made to order, to a bespoke Atelier option. What is more, you can now desig , personalise and purchase your own Ver phone via ver .com by its e-commerce capabilit and an online config rator.

Vertu has also partnered with different lux r brands to provide the qualit that the customers looking for. For Ver ’s own range of mobile phones, they are made up of three distinct models – Sig at re, Sig at re Touch and Aster. Ver mobile phones are handmade in England using the finest materials, with each one assembled by a single craſtsman.

Ver is famous for its ar isan and customer-led approach, which Ver thinks that mobile phone is probably one of our most personal and most intensively used possession, but continues to be mass produced in their millions, with li le or no scope for individual input.

Ver wants their customers to be able to have an individualised mobile in their way - not the way of ever one else.

要的是，你现在可通过 vertu.com

部个人化的手机。Vertu 希望为客

的电子商务功能和在线平台，按

户提供一个可以加入他们个性化

照自己的个性，设计并购买自己

的选择，而非跟人人一样。

的 Vertu 手机。 Vertu 创设了不少个性化选项的组

Ver has created a por folio of personalisation options, including a choice of colours, leathers and metals etc. They even have diamonds for some of the mobile phone collections.

That is why many of the Ver phones have become collectors’ items in their own right. You can create a Ver phone that is a t e ex ression of your own personal st le. And it is also possible to add initials or an eng aved message!

Vertu 也与不同的奢华品牌合作，

合，包括颜色、皮革、金属等。

为 用 家 提 供 所 需 的 优 质 产 品。

其中一些 Vertu 系列，甚至可以

Vertu 本 身 的 手 机 系 列，

装嵌钻石。这就是为何许多 Vertu

包 括 3 个 不 同 类 型 ——

手机系列成为收藏家项目的原

Signature、Signature Touch

因。现在，你也可以创造一部表

和 Aster。Vertu 的 手 机

现个人风格的 Vertu 手机，它不

在英国人手制造，不但

只 美 观， 还 可 以 添 加

使 用 最 上 等 的 材 料，

名字缩写或刻上

而且每部手机全由 同一工匠组装。

短讯。

与别不同的个性表现 英

国奢华手机品牌 Vertu，最适合喜欢表

Vertu 以艺术追求和用家为先见著，因 Vertu

现个性与亮丽的人士。它为其手机系

认为，手机可说是我们最贴身、最频密使用

列提供选择繁多的个人化服务，从雕刻、字

的随身用品之一。然现在手机产品都以百万

母组合和订制一部属于自己的 Vertu。更重

计大量生产，用家几乎没有机会参与制造一

要的是，你现在可通过 vertu.com

部个人化的手机。Vertu 希望为客

的电子商务功能和在线平台，按

户提供一个可以加入他们个性化

照自己的个性，设计并购买自己

的选择，而非跟人人一样。

的 Vertu 手机。 Vertu 创设了不少个性化选项的组 Vertu 也与不同的奢华品牌合作，

合，包括颜色、皮革、金属等。

为 用 家 提 供 所 需 的 优 质 产 品。

其中一些 Vertu 系列，甚至可以

Vertu 本 身 的 手 机 系 列，

装嵌钻石。这就是为何许多 Vertu

包 括 3 个 不 同 类 型 ——

手机系列成为收藏家项目的原

Signature、Signature Touch

因。现在，你也可以创造一部表

和 Aster。Vertu 的 手 机

现个人风格的 Vertu 手机，它不

在英国人手制造，不但

只 美 观， 还 可 以 添 加

使 用 最 上 等 的 材 料，

名字缩写或刻上

而且每部手机全由 同一工匠组装。

短讯。

View from One Tower Bridge

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Art and Culture 艺术与文化

Tower Twilight Tours 暮色中游伦敦塔

W

hile London starts to be illuminated by the blazing glass cliff of the office blocks in the heart of the capital, the Tower of London remains shrouded in the creepy darkness. Little by little, tiny lights begin to twinkle from the windows of the old medieval village as the spirits of the passed away came back to haunt their cobbled streets and courtyards.

The Yeoman Warders will lead you to experience the uniqueness of the darkest London, taking in some of the gruesome sights and spooky stories which make it world known. Set foot in the world renowned sights such as Traitors’ Gate, the Scaffold Site and the Bloody Tower, you will be amazed or even terrified by the prisoners’ tale, the stories of the past residents, royal gossip and secrets witnessed by the ancient walls. 夜幕低垂，市中心的摩天大楼华灯初上，

当

照亮了整个伦敦市。此时的伦敦塔却仍

沉浸在一种诡异的黑暗中。渐渐地，一盏又一

800 周年之际， 在紀念《大宪章》颁布 一系列丰富多彩的庆祝活动将在英国

各地展开，如伴随有 10 个《大宪章》城镇， 以及周边许多跟这段历史有关的村庄的 6 条旅行路綫。在众多活动中，由大英图书 馆主办的“自由大宪章：法律，自由，遗 产”展览显得极具特色，这场千载难逢的 展览将会探索这国际文献的历史及其深远 影响。 在这场展览中，大英图书馆将展示其拥有 的两张《大宪章》手稿原件以及其他丰富 的历史藏品，好让这些影响力延续至今的 藏品焕发出新的生机。相关的中世纪文献 放置在大英图书馆珍宝馆中专为向《大宪 章》致敬的珍藏馆内，其中包括一份记载 当时贵族所提出条件的独一无二的文献， 一份教皇于 1225 年宣布《大宪章》无效 的文件，以及一份亨利三世于 1225 年签 订的《大宪章》密封原件。这是大英图书 馆有史以来首次同时展示保存至今的珍贵 历史文献原件。

盏，小小的灯光开始在这个中世纪村庄的窗户 上闪耀，仿佛是那些古老的幽灵从遥远的时代 归来，在铺满鹅卵石的小巷和庭院中游荡。 在这个独特的伦敦塔游览项目中，伦敦塔卫兵

此外，这次展览还将展示托马斯杰斐逊的 《独立宣言》手稿，一份《美国权利法案》 原件，以及其他重要文献和藏品。本次展 览还将伴随一系列的公众活动在大英图书 馆展开，包括论坛、辩论和表演等。

将领你游访伦敦塔最阴森恐怖的一些景点，与 你分享那些让此地举世闻名的惊悚故事，以体 验伦敦最幽暗一面的独特之处。当踏足于著名 的 Traitors’ Gate、Scafforld Site 和 Bloody Tower 上 , 你将对一些囚犯的传说丶过去居民的故 事，以及这些古老围墙见证过的王室是非与秘 密而感到震惊，甚至恐惧。 Date Until 展览直至：29.3.2015 (Sundays only 仅周日开放 ) Venue 地点：The Tower of London, London EC3N 4AB Website 网页：www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon

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Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour 追访福尔摩斯步行之旅 Besides the exhibition inside the museum, the Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour provides the Sherlockians a chance of seeing some famous scenes om the Sherlock movies and TV productions onsite, taking in the scenes and sounds of Sir Ar hur Conan Doyle’s Victorian London. ©Museum of London

©Museum of London

Behind the Scene of Sherlock 福尔摩斯之前世今生

S

ince the frenzy of TV drama Sherlock blows all over the world, the world’s most notorious fictional detective character created by Arthur Conan Doyle become live and vivid, with the fig re of Benedict Cumberbatch’s face wearing his big coat living in the moder London cit .

除了在博物馆内的展览，追访福尔摩斯步行之旅 为福尔摩斯迷提供一个机会，能够亲眼看到在 《神探夏洛克》以及其他跟福尔摩斯有关的电影 电视剧出现过、柯南道尔耳闻目睹的维多利亚时 期的伦敦。

自

Date Until 日期直至：25.4.2015 Website 网页：www.museumoflondon.org.uk

尔创作的全球知名侦探人物，已逐渐形成了

Sherlock Holmes at Barbican

从 BBC 电视剧《神探夏洛克》风靡全 球，夏洛克·福尔摩斯这个由柯南道

Benedict Cumberbatch 身穿一件大外套，游走 于 21 世纪现代伦敦城市的典型模样。

To recreate the living se ings of Sherlock’s London, the early films, photog aphy, paintings and original Victorian era ar efacts are displayed in the Museum London. Visitors can envisage act al places feat red in Conan Doyle’s famous stories where the notorious detective has set foot on.

伦敦博物馆福尔摩斯展览将通过展示早期电

This exhibition ex lores in depth how the popular literat re has been t anscended onto stage and screen which keeps attracting tremendous audiences until today. If one wants to find out why Sherlock Holmes conjures up such enduring fascination, the answer is right here.

这次展览将深度探索福尔摩斯如何由文学创

影、照片、油画以及维多利亚时代艺术品， 重新营造出夏洛克曾存活的伦敦氛围，让游 客能想像自己置身于柯南道尔著名故事中的 大侦探曾踏足的地方。

作至被搬上舞台和银幕，并时至今日仍吸引 着大批观众。想了解夏洛克·福尔摩斯经久 不衰魅力的秘密，答案就在伦敦博物馆。

巴比肯福尔摩斯 默片春季系列 The Barbican will present a series of silent films about the world’s g eatest detective this spring. The three movies made bet een 1921 and 1923 all feat re Eille Nor ood in the star ing role of Holmes. His por ayal of the detective in The Hound of the Basker illes was a t e master iece, even Conan Doyle himself proclaimed that he “had never seen any hing more masterly.” 巴比肯艺术中心今个春季将放映世界最伟大侦探 的默片系列。这次放映的 3 场默片于 1921 年至 1923 年拍摄，主演福尔摩斯的全为艾尔诺伍德。 他在《巴斯克维尔的猎犬》的形象堪称真正杰 作，连小说原著柯南道尔也称赏“从未见过比这

Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die 夏洛克・福尔摩斯：从未存在 历久流传 Date Until 展览直至：12.4.2015 Venue 地点：Museum of London, London EC2Y 5HN Website 网页：www.museumoflondon.org.uk

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更貼切的演出”。 Date 日期：15.2.2015-29.3.2015 Venue 地点：Barbican Centre, Silk Street, London, EC2Y 8DS Website 网页：www.barbican.org.uk

©Museum of London

Benedict Cumberbatch in Belstaff coat, photograph by Colin Hutton©Hartswood Films

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Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour 追访福尔摩斯步行之旅 Besides the exhibition inside the museum, the Sherlock Holmes Walking Tour provides the Sherlockians a chance of seeing some famous scenes from the Sherlock movies and TV productions onsite, taking in the scenes and sounds of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s Victorian London. 除了在博物馆内的展览，追访福尔摩斯步行之旅 为福尔摩斯迷提供一个机会，能够亲眼看到在 《神探夏洛克》以及其他跟福尔摩斯有关的电影 电视剧出现过、柯南道尔耳闻目睹的维多利亚时 期的伦敦。 Date Until 日期直至：25.4.2015 Website 网页：www.museumoflondon.org.uk

Sherlock Holmes at Barbican 巴比肯福尔摩斯 默片春季系列

The Barbican will present a series of silent films about the world’s greatest detective this spring. The three movies made between 1921 and 1923 all feature Eille Norwood in the starring role of Holmes. His portrayal of the detective in The Hound of the Baskervilles was a true masterpiece, even Conan Doyle himself proclaimed that he “had never seen anything more masterly.” 巴比肯艺术中心今个春季将放映世界最伟大侦探 的默片系列。这次放映的 3 场默片于 1921 年至 1923 年拍摄，主演福尔摩斯的全为艾尔诺伍德。 他在《巴斯克维尔的猎犬》的形象堪称真正杰 作，连小说原著柯南道尔也称赏“从未见过比这 更貼切的演出”。 Date 日期：15.2.2015-29.3.2015 Venue 地点：Barbican Centre, Silk Street, London, EC2Y 8DS Website 网页：www.barbican.org.uk Benedict Cumberbatch in Belstaff coat, photograph by Colin Hutton©Hartswood Films

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Magna Carta: 800 Years of Liberty 《大宪章》：800 年自由之源

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agna Carta, a document granted in 1215 which aimed to limit the power of the monarch and establish human rights for every individual in England, has been recognised as the cornerstone of English liberties and widely regarded as the foundation of modern democracy. This year marks the 800th anniversary of the grant of Magna Carta.

Magna Carta (alias the Great Charter) was originally issued by King John of England as a solution to the political crisis he faced in 1215.

After losing the Duchy of Normandy to the King of France in 1204, King John, who vowed to regain his French territories, set out more demanding taxes so as to pay armies of mercenaries upon his barons. After another defeat by the French in 1214, the mercenary army which had been paid largely by the tax became the focus of escalating baronial discontent.

In less than one year, the barons captured the City of London in May 1215. John had no option but negotiate with them. As a result, King John granted the Charter of Liberties, subsequently known as Magna Carta at Runnymede (by the River Thames, near Windsor) on 15 June 1215. Everybody, including the king, was subject to the law. Later that year, the rebelled barons made their formal peace with King John and renewed their oaths of allegiance to him.

8

00 年前 ,《大宪章》于 1215 年公布，提 出限制君主权力和为每个英国人确立人

权，遂被誉为英国民主自由的基石和现代民 主的开端。今年是纪念《大宪章》颁发 800 周年。 1215 年，英格兰约翰国王签署《大宪章》， 是为了摆脱当时面临的政治危机。自 1204 年约翰国王被法国国王打败失去诺曼底领地 后，他矢志夺回其在法国的领地，便向贵族 徵收前所未有的高昂税收，以支付雇佣军的 军费开支。但在 1214 年，他的军队再次败 于法国，令贵族对约翰国王用税收支付雇佣 军费累积的不满达到临界点。

不足一年，一群贵族揭竿而起，反对约翰王 统治，并占领了伦敦。约翰王别无他法，只 能跟贵族谈判。1215 年 6 月 15 日，他不得 不在拉尼米德 ( 位于泰晤士河畔、鄰近温莎 )

Background image 背景图 First ever printed copy of Magna Carta 1506 于 1506 年首次面世的《大宪章》印本 © British Library

签署了《自由大宪章》。所有人，包括国王， 都需服从相关法律。同年，背叛的贵族与约 翰王正式复和，并重新宣誓效忠国王。

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Law, Liberty, Legacy 法律、自由、遗产 In the 800th Anniversary of commemorating the grant of Magna Carta, a wide range of celebratory events will be hosted nationally, such as 6 trails to visit England, along with 10 Charter towns and many towns and villages which have connections with this period of history. Amongst all these activities, the British Library specially holds a oncein-a-lifetime exhibition, Magna Carta: Law, Liberty, Legacy, to explore the history and significance of this globally-recognised document.

在纪念《大宪章》颁布 800 周年之际，一系 列丰富多彩的庆祝活动将在英国各地展开， 如伴随有 10 个《大宪章》城镇，以及周边许 多跟这段历史有关的村庄的 6 条游走路綫。 在众多活动当中，由大英图书馆特别主办的 “大宪章：法律、自由、遗产”展览显得极 具特色，这场千载难逢的展览，将会探索这 全球公认文献的历史及其影响。 在这场展览中，大英图书馆将展示其拥有的

As the custodian of two original Magna Carta manuscripts, the British Library will be drawing on its rich historical collections to bring to life a story that remains relevant today. The original medieval documents are held in a dedicated Magna Carta room in the Library’s Treasures Gallery. They include a unique copy of the baron’s demands, a papal document which declared the Magna Carta null and void in 1215, and a sealed copy of Henry III’s 1225 Magna Carta. It will also be the first time that the British Library displays the surviving original copies together in history.

Besides, on display will be Thomas Jefferson’s h a n dwr i t te n te x t o f t h e D e c l a ra t i o n o f Independence, an original copy of the US Bill of Rights, together with other key documents and artefacts. Accompanying the exhibition will be a series of public events, including talks, debates and performances.

两张《大宪章》手稿原件以及其他丰富的历 史藏品，好让这些影响力延续至今的藏品焕 发出新的生机。相关的中世纪文献放置在大 英图书馆珍宝馆中专向《大宪章》致敬的珍 藏画廊内，其中包括一份记载当时贵族提出 的条件的独一无二文献，一份教皇于 1215 年 宣布《大宪章》无效的文件，以及一份亨利 三世于 1225 年签订的《大宪章》密封原件。 这是大英图书馆首次同时展示尚存的珍贵历 史文献原件。 此外，这次展览还将展示托马斯·杰斐逊的 《独立宣言》手稿、《美国权利法案》的原 件，以及其他重要文献和艺术藏品。本次展 览还将伴随一系列在大英图书馆展览的公众 活动，包括讲座、辩论和表演等。

Date 日期：13.3.2015-1.9.2015 Venue 地点：The British Library，London NW1 2DB Website 网页：www.bl.uk

©AshMills2009

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Get to Know The Churchills 与邱吉尔家族邂逅 2 “At Blenheim Palace I took two very important decisions: to be born and to marry. I am content with the decision I took on both occassions.”

Sir Winston Churchill

015 marks the 75th anniversary of Sir Winston Churchill as Prime Minister of Britain and the 75th anniversary of his finest hour, the Battle of Britain. Winston’s love towards Blenheim Palace remained until his dying day, unarguably, it is the best place to commemorate this great respectable politician.

“影响我一生的两大重要 在布伦海姆宫发生。对于

2

两件决定的结果，我也很

民抗战演讲《最辉煌的时刻》发表 75

遂意。”

周年。邱吉尔对布伦海姆宫的锺爱至死

决定——诞生与结婚，都

温斯顿·邱吉尔爵士

015 年是温斯顿·邱吉尔爵士成为 英国首相 75 周年，以及他动员全

不减，布伦海姆宫毋庸置疑是向这位伟 大政治家致敬的最恰当悼念场地。

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As the birth place of Sir Winston Churchill, the Blenheim Palace is not only the cradle for the great, but also a true legend itself.

It is a place where one can get to know t h e l e ge n d a r y C h u rc h i l l Fa m i ly b e t te r.

Blenheim Palace was built as a gift from the Queen Anne to the 1st Duke o f M a r l b o ro u g h , Jo h n Churchill, to celebrate his victory over the French in the War of the Spanish Succession. Marlborough led the Allied forces in the Battle of Blenheim on 13 August 1704 and personally received the surrender from Marshal Tallard, leader of the French forces.

温斯顿·邱吉尔爵士的诞生地——布伦海

It has become the home of Churchill family for the next 300 years, witnessing the prosperity and changes in both the family and the country.

这座宫殿遂成为邱吉尔家族其后崛起的起

姆宫，不仅是伟人的摇篮，本身也充满了 传奇。这是一个让人深入认识邱吉尔家族 传奇的最佳场地。布伦海姆宫是英国安妮 女王送给马尔伯勒 公 爵 一 世 约 翰· 邱 吉 尔 的 礼 物， 以 表 彰他在西班牙王位 继承战争中击败法 国 的 功 绩。1704 年 8 月 13 日， 约 翰· 邱吉尔带领英荷德 诸国联军在布伦海 姆一役中获得胜利， 并亲自接受法国元 帅塔拉尔德投降。

点，见证着 300 年来邱吉尔家族、英国， 甚至世界经历的种种世情。

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Important Contributions to the War Effort 战场上的显赫贡献 To memorise the triumph of the 1st Duke of Marlborough, the Blenheim Column of Victory was built, standing at 134 feet high. Apart from the Palace itself being a pleasure to the Churchills, the Gardens and Park are also their favourites. Lady Randolph Churchill, mother of Sir Winston Churchill, expressed her highest compliment to the Parklane and gardens designed by Lancelot Brown. It was acclaimed as “the finest view in England” and she said, “I can find no adequate words to express my admiration.”

increasing food supplies for the soldiers and war horses back at the palace. The Blenheim Palace was even made into a convalescence hospital, where wounded soldiers were taken care of in the long gallery.

During the World War I, both the Churchill family and the Estate sent people to fight at the front line, while the rest of the people supported the war by

The generous gesture of the family continued in the World War II. They transferred the State Rooms into dormitories and classrooms for the students. This has lasted for a whole academic year, until the Estate was required for use by MI5. As a Prime Minister during the wartime, Winston Churchill gained his victory and led his family to a new glory, just like his ancestor, the 1st Duke of Marlborough.

为了纪念马尔伯勒公爵一世在战争

粮食产量，支持前綫的士兵和战马。

中取得的重大胜利，布伦海姆宫建

宫殿甚至被改用作康复医院，长廊

立了一座 134 呎高的胜利碑。对于

中收留了不少受伤士兵，供他们疗

邱吉尔家族来説，除了宫殿本身是

养康复。

他们偏爱之所，花园和园林同样是 他们的最爱。温斯顿·邱吉尔母亲

在第二次世界大战，邱吉尔家族依

伦道夫·邱吉尔夫人曾高度称赞英

然慷慨捐输。他们把宫殿议事室改

国皇家园林设计师布朗设计的后花

造成宿舍和教室，为学生提供安全

园，赞赏那是“英格兰最优美的景

的学习场所，为时整整一学年，直

观” “其美态简直是笔墨难以罄书”。 ，

到宫殿被军情五处徵用才停止。作 为英国战时首相，温斯顿·邱吉尔

在第一次世界大战，邱吉尔家族与

带领国家走向了胜利，诚如他的先

宫殿都派人加入了前线作战，剩下

祖马尔伯勒公爵一世般，为家族带

来留守皇宫后方者则藉着努力提高

来新的荣光。

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Churchill Exhibition Reopens 重启邱吉尔展览 Every great place has a great story. Blenheim Palace is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which welcomes everyone to come and share the story. The bricks and walls, oak trees and the serene lake are telling the story of one of the greatest families in the world, which still continues.

After refurbishment, the Churchill Exhibition will re-open on February 14 2015. It explores the journey of Churchill’s life, starting with his birth at Blenheim Palace, featuring the many accolades he achieved, the proposal to his wife Clementine and his final days.

This exhibition features a number of interesting exhibits. They include Oscar Nemon’s bronze of Sir Winston and Lady Churchill, Sir Winston’s own painting of the Great Hall at Blenheim, some precious artefacts like several of Sir Winston’s lively letters, a superb collection of his commemoration first day covers, as well as many fascinating photographs of this great man at Blenheim Palace. 每个伟大的地方都有它的伟大故事。如今，布伦海姆宫已 被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产，欢迎游客前来了 解和分享它的故事。一砖一瓦，一枝一叶，都诉説着这个 世界最伟大家族之一所经历过的繁荣，而這個故事仍在延 续。

From above 从上至下：

邱吉尔展览經翻修后，于 2 月 14 日重开。它將邱吉尔从

Sir Winston Churchill’s birth room. 邱吉尔爵士出生的房间。

布伦海姆宫出生伊始一直探索他的生命旅程，包括细数他 得过的各项荣誉，他向妻子克莱门蒂娜求婚，以至他生命 中最后的日子。 展览将展示很多有趣藏品，包括奥斯卡·内芒制作的邱吉 尔夫妇铜像，邱吉尔爵士为布伦海姆宫大礼堂绘制的图 画。除此之外，许多珍贵文物也会展出，例如邱吉尔的多 封亲笔信，一套纪念他的首日封藏品，以及这位伟人在布 伦海姆宫的许多珍贵留影。

In the Temple of Diana, a small temple near the Water Terraces, Sir Winston Churchill proposed to his future wife. 在靠近水池的戴安娜小庙宇中，邱吉尔 做了他人生中最重要决定之一——向未 来妻子求婚。 During World War II, Malvern College took over the State Rooms, using them as dormitories and classrooms. 在第二次世界大战其间，马尔文学院接 管了国事厅，作为学生的宿舍和教室。

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Mecca of Bespoke Tailoring

č?¨çť´ĺ°”襗 : é‡?čşŤčŽ˘ĺˆśčĽżćœ?ĺœŁĺœ° CONDUIT UIT S STREET

NEEW BURLINGTON PLACE

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GIEVES & HAWKES

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Ever Savile Row bespoke gar ent has its own individually handmade pa er , and is then made under super ision to the exact standards for which Savile Row is famed.

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çť“ćžœďźŒčż™ĺŽśĺ??č?˝č?¨çť´ĺ°”襗 36-39 ĺ?ˇçš„ĺş—é“şďźŒ

ĺ¨ ĺ°”ć–ŻçŽ‹ĺ­?ďźŒäşŚĺ?łĺ?Žć?Ľçˆąĺžˇĺ?Žä¸ƒä¸–çš„ĺ…‰éĄžďźŒ

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ä¸şäş¨ĺˆŠčľ˘ĺž—â€œč?¨çť´ĺ°”čĄ—äš‹çˆśâ€?的称ĺ?ˇă€‚

The pat onage of Prince of Wales, later Edward VII made Savile Row ver fashionable back then. More tailoring houses star ed to move in, attracting visits from Queen Victoria, Sir Winston Churchill, Charles Dickens, General De Gaulle and Napoleon III. In the 21st cent r , the mor ing coats of Prince William and Prince Har wore at their father Prince Charles’ second wedding were also made at Savile Row.

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此襗辡ĺˆ?ç”ąĺ†›ĺŽ˜ĺ’Œć”żć˛ťĺŽśĺ? ć?Žă€‚ç›´ĺˆ° 1846

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Park Lane

Built in 1731 by the Earl of Burling on, Savile Row was named after his wife Lady Dorothy Savile.

The St eet was originally occupied by militar oďŹƒcers and politicians. It was only until 1846 then James Poole’s son Henr inherited his father’s tailoring shop at No. 4 Old Burling on St eet and t r ed the Savile Row rear ent ance into a g and ent ance at No 36-39 Savile Row. As a result, Henr ear ed the title as the ‘Founder of Savile Row’.

Oxford Circus

Green Park

čŁ çź?ĺş—čż›éŠťďźŒĺ?¸ĺź•çť´ĺ¤šĺˆŠäşšĺĽłçŽ‹ă€ 渊斯饿¡ é‚ąĺ?‰ĺ°”çˆľĺŁŤă€ ç‹„ć›´ć–Żă€ ćˆ´éŤ˜äš?ĺ°†ĺ†›ĺ’Œć‹żç ´äť‘ 三世等ĺ??äşşĺ‰?ć?ĽčŽ˘ĺˆśčĽżćœ?。至 21 ä¸–çşŞďźŒĺ¨ ĺť‰çŽ‹ĺ­?ĺ’Œĺ“ˆé‡ŒçŽ‹ĺ­?ĺœ¨çˆśäş˛ć&#x;Ľç?†ć–ŻçŽ‹ĺ‚¨çŹŹäşŒćŹĄ 劚礟所犿的晨礟ćœ?ďźŒéƒ˝ć˜Żĺœ¨č?¨çť´ĺ°”čĄ—čŽ˘ĺˆśă€‚ ĺœ¨č?¨çť´ĺ°”襗é‡?čşŤčŽ˘ĺˆśçš„ćŻ?äťśćœ?čŁ…ďźŒéƒ˝ćœ‰ä¸ŞĺˆŤ çš„ć‰‹ĺˇĽĺ›žćĄˆďźŒč€Œä¸”ć˜Żĺœ¨ç›‘ç?Łä¸‹çź?ĺˆśďźŒçĄŽäż?čžž

Piccadilly Circus

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BURLINGTON GARDENS

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s the home of bespoke tailoring in the United Kingdom, the world renowned Savile Row has been sy ony ous with high qualit , st lish, t aditional and sophisticated handmade suits for over one cent r .

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DEGE & SKINNER

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č?¨çť´ĺ°”襗 : é‡?čşŤčŽ˘ĺˆśčĽżćœ?ĺœŁĺœ° CONDUIT UIT S STREET

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DEGE & SKINNER

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NICOLAS BARELIER FOR RONI FLORAL DESIGN

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