Gloss: December 2021 Issue

ON THE COVER

Claire Michel photographed by Audrey O'Neill, Photography Director

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Gabrielle Gronewold

DEPUTY EDITOR

Arella Warren

ART DIRECTOR

Annika Ide

ARTS CURATOR

Emma Gray

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

Audrey O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Sam Starks

FASHION DIRECTOR

Corbin Woessner

FASHION EDITOR

Manon Bushong

LIFESTYLE EDITOR

Mason Braasch

CULTURE EDITOR

Rachel Hale

ARTS EDITOR

Kora Quinn

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Olivia Peters

PR AND OUTREACH DIRECTOR

Emily Fleming

ONLINE EDITOR

Jessica Katz

NEW MEMBERS DIRECTOR

Maya Greenberg

PROGRAMMING AND SPECIAL EVENTS COORDINATOR

Madeleine Olson

DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION CO-DIRECTORS

Abbey Perkins Sonakshi Garr

MAKEUP DIRECTOR

Riley August

VIDEOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

Madelyn Vilker

WEBSITE MANAGER

Kara Conrad

MODA IS PRODUCED WITH SUPPORT FROM THE WISCONSIN UNION AND WISCONSIN UNION DIRECTORATE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE.

WRITERS

Laine Bottemiller • Mason Braasch • Manon Bushong• Noa Chamberlin • Sam Downey • Emily Fleming• Emma Goshin • Rachel Hale • Jane Houseal • Kylie Hynes

• Nina Johnson • Elizabeth Karnowski • Mi Chuinda Levy • Shannon McManus • Ava McNarney • Clara Padgham

• Kora Quinn • Braden Ross • Zack Zens

ART

Riley August • Alyssa Cohen • Mac Gale • Nicole Glesinger • Alexa Kantor • Sammy Meyerson • Shea Murphy • Rosie Quinlan • Jessica Tenenbaum • Arella Warren

PHOTOGRAPHY

Seth DeGier • Hannah Huber • Molly Jacobs • Anna Janke • Hunter Kiehl • Luc Marchessault • Audrey O’Neill • Jessica Tenenbaum

MODELS

Noa Chamberlin • Sydney Collins • Emily Fleming • Hunter Kiehl • Shannon McManus • Claire Michel • Devany Rindy

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CULTURE

16 When Ice Turns to Water, the World Falls Apart

The endangerment of arctic animals due to climate change and capitalism

18

Diamond (Alternatives) are a Girl's Best Friend

The ethical dilemma of diamonds and the rise of alternatives

21

Breaking the Ice Ceiling

The history and impact of gender roles in women’s hockey

45 Soviet Russia Core

What does Paris Hilton have to do with communism?

48

Rivals and rhinestones: A look back on figure skating’s golden age

American figure skating's influence on the '90s

ARTS

27 A Masterclass in Glass

History, process and local connections of the mesmerizing art form

30 Fresh Faces of 2021

The rising stars that reigned over the television, film and music industries this year

32

Reflections on Reflections

Visual and emotional uses of mirrors in film

36

Dripping in Resin

The colorful implications of the latest art trend

50 Enemies to Lovers

How this popular trope glosses over character’s toxic and problematic actions

FASHION

06 A glimpse into the not-so-distant future

Reflecting on futuristic fashion and its evolving nature

10 Ode to the Ugg Boot

The iconic and comfortable boot of your youth is here to stay

12 Fur’s Snowy Resurrection

Haute couture has fur this winter

14 Accessories for a Brighter Winter December Trend Report

28 Après-Ski in Style

Fashion’s astounding impact on ski culture

38 Fashion's New Basics

How the subversive basics trend is offering a new rugged perspective on simple outfits

LIFESTYLE

11 Winter Blues

Five ways to combat seasonal depression

26 Tis the (Scrub) Season

Give your skin the gift it deserves

47

Glimmer and Glow

Let some sparkle into your routine this winter

22 Luster 40 Vortex

Don't Gloss Over the Beauty of Life

Dear Readers,

When I started college, I remember thinking that it would last forever. I thought that I had an infinite amount of time to relish in the identity of being a college student. This iden tity comes with a sort of naiveness, spontaneity and for giveness as we all grow through our early adulthood. And I have enjoyed college—it is within this time that I have begun to open my eyes to my self-worth and to understand what truly matters, and what doesn’t. Yet my time in college, re grettably, has been calculated; orchestrated by my desire to control; managed by the mental list of things I feel must happen in my early twenties; judged by the imaginary voic es of others.

My whole life I have experienced anxiety. As I have gotten older, I have taken on a deep desire for control, and many of my anxiety symptoms are reflected in obsessive and con trolling thoughts. I believe my experience in college is not separate from this. I also believe my experiences are not unique and are a natural outcome of the amount of pres sure college students feel. As I approach my last semester, I find myself reflecting on one important thing: through all the feelings I have felt over this time, I have often glossed over life and the uncontrollable beauty that comes with it.

When we approached the theme of Gloss, we were inspired by the crisp beauty of winter, iridescence and cool melan choly colors. As our December issue, Gloss marks both a time of reflection and a charge toward new approaches.

“An Ode to the Ugg Boot” by Clara Padgham reminds us of our old trusted Ugg boots and the phenomenon of cy clical trends—urging us to pull out the old slipper-like boot and hop on the bandwagon. Meanwhile, Jane Houseal’s “A glimpse into the not-so-distant future” takes a step forward. This piece asks us to look toward futuristic fashion and the psyche behind it, arguing that the way we approach futur istic fashion may at times reflect society’s current dark per ceptions of the future.

“Diamond (Alternatives) are a Girl’s Best Friend” by Braden Ross tackles both a thing of the past and a knock on future’s door by analyzing the faults and concerns of traditional di amond mining practices—all while providing a comprehen sive list of modern alternatives! At other times, the Gloss issue meets us where we are at. “Winter Blues” by Emma Goshin gives readers five ways to combat seasonal depres sion, which is a list I will be utilizing as we pass through the Winter Solstice.

Gloss comes right in time for the New Year, providing a space of reflection and anticipation. It also comes right in time for me, and many of my fellow seniors, to have one last wack at the college “experience”; one that I still feverishly may attempt to control and manipulate.

When I wrote my very first Letter from the Editor in August, I remember getting so wrapped up in what it was supposed to be, cross-analyzing it from examples of years prior, that it almost inhibited me from finishing the piece. And I hated the outcome. In one way, I wanted to get it exactly right, and in other ways, I just wasn’t enjoying what was happen ing in front of me.

Since then, I have come to terms with the fact that this voice of control comes through during most minutes of my day, and that I must actively work to undo that. Whatever role control plays in your life. I urge you to visit it so that you don’t inadvertently gloss over the beauty that may other wise unfold naturally before you.

Warmly,

GABRIELLE GRONEWOLD EDITOR IN CHIEF

A glimpse into the not-so-distant future

REFLECTING ON FUTURISTIC FASHION AND ITS EVOLVING NATURE

Written by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editorial Assistant Photographed by Luc Marchessault, Staff Photographer Modeled by Devany Rindy Makeup by Riley August, Makeup Director

WhenI first began playing with the idea of “futuristic fashion,” it sparked images of flashy intergalactic outfits. Hunter Schaefer’s two-piece silver Prada look at the 2021 Met gala, or one of Doja Cat’s many, sexy metallic ensembles that she paired with the release of her latest album, “Planet Her,” are full of elements that we consider futuristic.

Typically associated with space and technology, futuristic fashion includes metallic color palettes, holographic material, geometric silhouettes and other cosmic-inspired elements. How ever, upon further research into cur rent fashion phenomena and trends, it is clear there is a subtle shift hap pening in how we define “futuristic fashion.” A new realm of fashion that is distinctly dystopian may be a more accurate representation of how indi viduals are using fashion to mirror their ideas about the future.

These design differences reflect the continually changing state of the world. In the ‘60s and ‘70s, there was a lot of excitement surrounding space travel and new technological ad vancements; whereas now, individuals yearn for a return to nature and even express fears about how rapidly tech nology is advancing.

The fashion that was popular in the mid 20th century is known as “retro-futur ism” because it is the pasts’ version of the future.1 Italian designer Pierre Car din is often considered the founder of this space-age style. His collections were full of tasteful silver vinyl and clean geometric shapes that laid the foundation for futuristic fashion.2

In 1964, designer André Courrèges re leased his “Moon Girl” collection, which included white go-go boots, spheri cal hats and A-line skirts created from high-shine PVC. These early designs were iconic in that they reflected so ciety’s building anticipation for a tech nologically-advanced future. Despite being born out of ideas from long ago, many still consider the striking aesthet ic as the epitome of futuristic fashion.3

The concept is apparent on runways, in celebrity fashion and even in the average wearer’s closet. Popular de signers are beautifully reflecting ret ro-futurism in their current designs.

Designer Iris Van Herpen is known to design otherworldly, unconvention al products that combine space-age aesthetics with true modern tech

¹ Maura Brannigan, “The Eternal, Desperate Opti mism of Retro-Futurism in Fashion,” Fashionista, Jan. 26, 2021.

² Laird Borrelli-Persson, “5 Things You Didn’t Know about the French Design Legend Pierre Cardin,” Vogue, July 19, 2019.

³ Leah Dolan, “A Visual History of Space-Age Fashion,” CNN, May 23, 2021.

nological advancements, such as 3D-printed materials.4

Other designers such as Chanel have embodied the aesthetic as is. In Chanel’s Fall 2017 runway show, it pre sented a collection of glitter, knee-high go-go boots and a double-breasted bouclé skirt suit alongside a mono grammed rocket ship that embarked on a fake-launch.5 Rather than depict an accurate prediction of the future, retro-futurism is a timeless aesthetic that is used to convey ideas of hope and provoke excitement about innova tion and change.

The darker side of futuristic fashion doesn’t relate to the space-age aes thetic, but rather, it reflects society’s current perceptions of the future. Trends such as “subversive basics,” defined by trend forecaster Augusti na Panzoni, and “avant apocalypse,” described by trend analyst Mandy Lee showcase this newer, more gloomy version of futuristic fashion.6

The designs associated with dystopian fashion are deconstructed and unique, with funky cutouts, unnecessary straps

4 “Iris Van Herpen Debuts Wearable 3D Printed Pieces at Paris Fashion Week,” Materialise, ac cessed Nov. 18, 2021.

5 Dhani Mau, “Chanel Literally Launched a Space craft in the Middle of Its Fall 2017 Show,” Fashion ista, March 7, 2017.

6 “What Is the Subversive Basics Trend?” CR Fashion Book, July 22, 2021.

and ribbons, layers of textured fabric and unexpected draping. Jane Tynan, a professor of Critical Studies at Cen tral Saint Martins College in London, claims that dystopian fashion offers clothing styles that “make our bodies feel resilient against an uncertain fu ture.”7 She also points to Rick Owens as a designer that embodies dystopian fashion. His clothes hint at the “quirk iness and absurdity” that people are currently living through.8

Owens collections, new and old, con vey the same message of unwavering strength and beauty. In his most re cent collection, Spring 2022 Ready-toWear, models clad in bias-cut dresses with extravagant jackets and capes walked down a runway that sat against a desolate, yet provoking backdrop.9

By combining sexy and powerful de signs, Owens created yet another col lection that empowers viewers.

Rick Owens is not the only artist de signing for a dystopian future. While he has maintained a consistent aesthetic throughout his career, many other de signers have recently started creating fashion with a darker twist. Matthew Williams, for example, used Givenchy’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection to ex plore “industrial dystopia” while still maintaining Givenchy’s core design factors. The show was full of dichoto mies, displaying a blend of glamour and utility wear.10 The looks were authentic to Givenchy, but still evoked questions about the future using fashion.

While dystopian fashion is not as op timistic as retro-futurism, it certainly provides comfort to those concerned about what the future holds. Its earthy references encourage people to re turn to their roots. It stresses reflec tion and careful consideration of the implication of new technology and in novation, allowing people to express their fears but also find strength in in dividual power.

Fashion will always be a tool used to cope with the impending future, whether that be by building excite ment or creating modern armor. Ret ro-futuristic fashion is a style that will stay eternally relevant, and dystopian fashion reflects how we are currently using fashion to comprehend the un certainty that lies ahead.

■

7 Bryan Tan Miles Socha, Miles Socha, and Bryan Tan, “Fashion’s Darker Side Comes to the ForeAgain,” WWD, April 23, 2020.

8 Ibid.

9 Sarah Mower, “Rick Owens Spring 2022 Readyto-Wear Collection,” Vogue, Sept. 30, 2021.

10 Olivia Singer, “5 Things to Know about Givenchy’s Elegantly Dystopian AW21 Collection,” British Vogue, March 8, 2021.

The darker side of futuristic fash ion doesn’t relate to the space-age aesthetic, but rather, it reflects society’s current perceptions of the future.

An Ode to the UGG BOOT

THE ICONIC AND COMFORTABLE BOOT OF YOUR YOUTH IS HERE TO STAY

Written by Clara Padgham, Contributing Writer Graphic by Riley August, Makeup Director

Inthe realm of footwear, the Ugg has been arguably one of the most iconic shoes of our lifetime. The comfort and warmth they provide us is irreplaceable, as is the excuse they give to leave the house wearing slippers. From Y2K icons to my grandma, their wool lining is beloved and their legacy will only continue to grow. Ugg’s humble beginning provides an inspiration to us all.

Ugg boots first circulated around Aus tralia in the 1930s, but the term ‘Ugg’ was originally the name used for all sheepskin boots. Australian surfers loved ugg boots because they were a foolproof fix for cold, wet, post-surf ing feet.1 Subsequently, their popu larity spread within the international surfing community.2

In 1978, Australian surfer Brian Smith moved to California to sell the woolen boots he had brought from home. The boots were quickly a hit with the SoCal surf crowd, and the momentum did not slow down.3 Smith trademarked the name UGG Australia in the 1980s, and 15 years later, Deckers Outdoor bought the brand from Smith.4

1“Where did UGG boots get their name? Is the name really short for “ugh?”” Dictionary.com, 2021.

2 Sam, “History of the Australian Ugg Boot,” Everything Australian, 2021.

3 “Who We Are,” UGG, 2021.

4 Yan Zhuang, “Australian Company Loses UGG Trademark Battle,” The New York Times, 2021.

As the brand grew, its clientele began to encompass more than just surfers, and Ugg boots entered the main stream. Nearly everyone with an eye on trends in the early 2000s wanted a pair of Uggs so they could emulate their favorite Y2K icons. Paris Hilton styled hers with Juicy Couture track suits, while Kate Hudson rolled hers over the top to expose the shearling.5

As trends ebb and flow, Ugg’s popu larity dwindled for a period of time— until the mid 2010s, when they be came a staple amongst teenage girls. There was suddenly nothing cooler than PINK yoga pants tucked into midlength, chestnut Ugg boots. As their new wearers aged, trend cycles once again phased out the boots.

Luckily, Ugg boots are once again having a major resurgence. The com pany now sells home goods, bags and clothing, along with a variety of new and trendy boots, slippers and san dals. Although Paris Hilton isn’t tout ing her trailblazing Ugg looks any more, younger generations have their own style heroes they turn to for new Ugg inspiration.

Infleuncer and style maven Emma Chamberlain recently released a You Tube video titled “ugg season,” in 5 Brooke Bobb, “The UGG boot craze of the early 2000s, as remembered by vogue,” Vogue, 2017.

ic boot. Chamberlain styled her Mini Uggs with tall white socks, leggings and a lightweight puffer coat over a classic white turtleneck. The Ultra Minis and Minis seem to be Ugg’s most popular shoe at the moment, and we love seeing the chic ways they can be fashioned.

Gigi Hadid styled her blue Minis with a navy bathrobe jacket, blue base ball cap and gold rimmed sunglasses to match the hardware on her Ralph Lauren bag.6 She looked effortlessly cool, comfortable and fashion forward. Another great way to style the Ultra Mini Uggs is with straight leg jeans, a bright-colored top to contrast the neu trals (or to match your colorful Uggs), a leather blazer or camel coat and lots of gold jewelry to make sure the Uggs are seen as a daytime essential.

It is hard to contain excitement when the comfortable, slipper-like shoe of your childhood is once again becom ing a trend. With all the new styles Ugg has debuted, there is an Ugg boot to match any outfit and occasion. But for those who can’t resist a time-honored tradition, the Classic Short II in chest nut is always an option. ■

6 Tara Gonzalez, “Celebrities Just Discovered an UGG Boot We Didn’t Even Know Existed,” InStyle, 2021.

Winter Blues

FIVE WAYS TO COMBAT SEASONAL DEPRESSION

Written by Emma Goshin, Contributing Writer Graphic by Rosie Quinlan, Contributing Graphic Artist

Asdaylight savings time passes each fall, many of us dreadfully set our clocks back an hour, knowing that months of short days and early nights are to come. Seasonal affective disorder, commonly referred to as SAD or seasonal depression, often occurs during the fall and early winter when temperatures get colder and the sun sets earlier.1

Sunlight controls molecules that help maintain the proper serotonin levels in the human body, so people with SAD may have a reduced activity of serotonin, the brain chemical that stabilizes mood, in the winter.2 In ad dition, findings have suggested that people with SAD produce an excess amount of melatonin, a hormone that maintains the body’s sleep-wake cy cle, causing disruptions in our typical sleep-wake routines.3

It can be hard to adjust to these chemical changes in our bodies. While seasonal depression looks different for each person, many experience in creased feelings of depression, low energy, changes in appetite and diffi culty concentrating.4

Combatting the effects of SAD may feel like a daunting task, but it is pos sible. Here are five ways to take back your winter and beat SAD this season.

Bright Light Therapy

Our serotonin levels are influenced by the sun, and bright light therapy is a great way to combat the reduced amounts of sunlight we get in the win ter months. Light therapy is the pro cess of exposing yourself to a light about 20 times brighter than ordinary indoor lights for 30 to 45 minutes ev

1 “Seasonal Affective Disorder,” National Institute of Mental Health, accessed Nov. 2021.

2 Ibid.

3 Ibid.

4 Ibid.

9

ery day.5 Using light therapy can ease symptoms of SAD and increase ener gy levels.6 Lamps are easy to find, and websites like Amazon have a variety of affordable options.

Vitamin D

Vitamin D is produced by our bodies when sunlight is on the skin, but it can also be consumed through diet. With less daylight in the winter, lower levels contribute to symptoms of SAD.7 It is possible that Vitamin D supplements may improve your overall mood. You should always consult with your doc tor before adding a new supplement to your regimen.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids

Omega-3 fatty acids, which are com monly found in fish oil and some ma rine algae,8 have proven to be benefi cial to help treat depression and mood disorders.9Adding foods like tuna, wal nuts, olive oil, chia seeds and salmon can help you get your daily dose.10 However, if you do not want to eat these foods, omega-3 supplements are available over the counter.

Social activities

With earlier nights and colder weath er, people tend to be more isolated through the winter, causing feelings of sadness and loneliness. These periods of isolation can have a negative psy chological impact on people and lead to symptoms of depression.11 To avoid this, try making scheduled plans with friends or family that you can look forward to. Turn cooking into a com

5 Ibid.

6 “Light Therapy,” Mayo Clinic, Feb. 8, 2017.

7 “Seasonal Affective Disorder,” National Institute of Mental Health, accessed Nov. 2021.

8 Ibid.

David Mischoulon, “Omega-3 Fatty Acids for Mood Disorders,” Harvard Health, Oct. 27, 2020.

10 Ruben Castaneda and Vanessa Caceres, “7 Foods That Are Very High in Omega-3s” US News, Feb. 18, 2021.

11Beth W. Orenstein and Michelle Pugle, “14 Ways to Ease Seasonal Depression.” EverydayHealth, Oct. 6, 2021.

petition with friends, watch movies to gether or try outdoor activities like ice skating. Although socialization often feels like more work during the winter months, it is important to remain so cially active to avoid symptoms of sea sonal affective disorder.

Exercise

Exercise releases endorphins, which can reduce pain and anxiety, increase feelings of self-esteem and improve sleep patterns.12 Many people with sea sonal depression report lower levels of exercise than those who do not suffer from it. Incorporating low impact aero bic exercise like yoga, swimming, walk ing, dancing and stretching into your daily routine can help to reduce symp toms of SAD.13

Seasonal affective disorder is differ ent for everyone. What works for one person may not work for another. During the winter season, it is import ant to find ways to combat SAD that work for you.

If you are suffering from symptoms of seasonal affective disorder, contact a trusted doctor. For more resources, visit the UHS Mental Health Resources page or call teh UHS Mental Health 24hour Crisis Line at 608-265-5600.

■

12 Alan Steed, “Easing Sad Effects with Exercise,” Health Care & Medical Services In Minnesota & Western Wisconsin, Feb. 9, 2018.

13 Ibid.

HAUTE COUTURE HAS FUR THIS WINTER

Written by Zack Zens, Fashion Staff Writer

Graphic by Nicole Glesinger, Contributing Graphic Artist

Splashing

the runways of several major designers, fur has returned to the catwalk with vitality in a surprising way. As some designers like Oscar De La Renta and Canada Goose move away from fur, others like Bottega Veneta have chosen to embrace it.1 These opposing trends have been consistently brushing the pages of celebrity curated looks and fashion bloggers alike. Fur, like many staple options, promotes a unique, refined and sophisticated addition to any wardrobe.

With fur in the catalog, designer and runway looks have been geared to one of two schools of thought: either bold and extravagant looks or cropped and subtle ones with slim and measured proportions. Bottega Veneta has truly geared up to promote green, a high ly popular color this season, and large, exaggerated fur looks paired with fox and other options as well.2

Fur has also returned to the Met Gala with Jennifer Lopez’s faux fur Ralph Lauren wrap and floor-length cof fee-colored gown.3 Further, Saweet ie was seen in a black lace Givenchy dress trimmed in fur at the MTV EMA’s in Budapest.4 Time and time again, fur makes a subtle and sophisticated ad dition to the outfits and collections of several prominent designers.

YSL’s FW 2021 collection did not shy away from fur either, with large Siberi an Hats and fur-trimmed skirts dotting the pages of lookbooks. The colors of this YSL collection are all reasonably neutral shades, as it is with most YSL pieces, but still, each piece is absolute ly eye-catching and beautifully cut.5

On the other side of the coin, the ski-obsessed looks of Miu Miu’s FW

1 Caitlin O’Kane, “Billie Eilish Wore Oscar de la Renta at the Met Gala Under one Condition: They stop using fur,” CBS News, Sept. 2021.

2 Katy Kelleher, “Bottega Veneta Green Was Fashion’s Favorite Color. What Happens Next?” Refinery 29, 2021.

3 Sarah Wasilak, “J Lo’s Western-Inspired Ralph Lauren Met Gala Look Comes With a Shoe Sur prise,” Popsugar, Sept. 2021.

4 Amanda Krause, “9 of The Most Daring Looks Celebrities Wore to The 2021 MTV EMAs,” Insider, Nov. 2021.

5 Amy De Klerk, “Everything you need to see from the autumn/winter 2021 collections,” Harp er’s Bazaar, July 2021.

Incorporating fur exem plifies, much like the strik ing nature of an iridescent gloss, the class in adding a gentle layer of refinement to any outfit or wardrobe.

2021 collection feature bold colors and alpine boots trimmed in fur, making it a central tenet of the design ethos of this collection.6 These ski-themed items are part of a broader trend that has revitalized the 1970s and ‘80s ski fashion featured prominently in the new release "House of Gucci".

Given the permeation of fur as a vi sual canon for the season, it seems plausible to want to incorporate it into a wardrobe, which is best done with choice pieces from jackets to shoes and bags. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference, but larger and oversized fits are in, so consider this when choosing a piece as well.

With this extended consideration of fur, there is a sort of ruggedness and grandeur to a fur garment. It commu nicates presence in a powerfully and timeless way while also being highly practical and easy to incorporate into any fall, winter and spring ensemble.

Having said this, there is a lot of con troversies that stem from fur’s use in fashion as something that is both re source-intensive and inhumane. An imal cruelty is no light subject and some producers are guilty of using methods that are barbarous and cru el. When considering a source to buy fur from, it is imperative that when

6 Ibid.

one chooses an item, that item is eth ically sourced and humanely treat ed. This goes without saying, but fur products should never contain en dangered or protected species and should trace, in detail, the animals’ treatment and sourcing.

Buying or thrifting vintage fur is also a great way to reduce new consumption while saving many pieces from land fills. If you are seeking genuine fur, purchasing it used is the most ethical method. Additionally, not only does reclaiming used fur help the environ ment and limit animal sourcing, but it is also much more affordable than brand new items while not compro mising on quality.7

The maze of foxtails at Bottega Veneta in Seoul epitomizes the true character and vivacity with which fur has reen tered the winter wardrobe.8 Incorpo rating fur exemplifies, much like the striking nature of an iridescent gloss, the class in adding a gentle layer of refinement to any outfit or wardrobe. Ethically-sourced fur is bold, unique and consequently en vogue in any win ter wardrobe this season and for sea sons to come.

■

7 Elizabeth Shergan, “Stella McCartney on Fash ion’s Steep Environmental Toll: ‘We don’t have 20 years to wait,’” Fast Company, Nov. 2021.

8 Kat Barandy, “Explore Bottega Veneta’s Immersive, Green Maze Installation in Seoul,” Designboom, Oct. 2021.

ACCESSORIES FOR A Brighter Winter

MODA'S DECEMBER TREND REPORT

Written by Emily Fleming, PR & Outreach Director

I will admit that I am a culprit of ignoring the color in my closet, especially as winter approaches. Yet even though the days are getting grayer and the sun is setting sooner, there is no reason why we cannot continue to utilize color in our wardrobes. Dressing for winter presents us with many opportunities for creativity, as layering is key to surviving the Madison tundra. Below are a few of my picks for the best, boldest accessories to brighten your day (when the weather in Madison seems to do the opposite)!

1Layering Shacket

RIVER ISLAND - $74

Color is not the only way to be bold during the winter, and this black and white shacket is proof. Bold printed text adds dimension and excitement to any look, and paired with a simple black top and leggings, this quilted shacket immediately ele vates the look to street style status. Similar to a vest, this is the perfect layering piece to go under a parka, and adding white sneakers and a beanie easily completes the look.

Beanie

FIORUCCI - $49

A recurring staple in my winter wardrobe, beanies are both fashionable and functional for everyday wear. A bright col ored beanie can be the perfect pop of color for just about any outfit. Try pairing this with an athleisure look, even a simple black hoodie and leggings, or a pair of light wash jeans and a sweater on top. Fiorucci makes this eye-catching beanie, but it also offers a white angel patch hat for a simpler look. Carhartt has several color options in their clas sic knit style as well.

Snow Boots

KOHLS - $32

It wouldn’t be winter without snow, and while we may hope for light flurries, we often end up with harsh blizzards. Kohls’ faux fur snow boots pres ent the perfect mix of stylish and practical for those of us trudging to and from class. While you can pair these with nearly anything, I recom mend opting for a monochrome look, pairing white leggings with a white hoodie, for an easily chic outfit. For a pop of color, add a colorblocked, over sized scarf or a bright beanie.

Oversized Scarf

LULULEMON - $98

As an avid scarf enthusiast, I believe an oversized scarf is the number one must have for any winter wardrobe. They keep you warm when a sweater just isn’t enough, and can immediately pull together an outfit. Scarves with faux fur are a great option for when you want to dress up and stay warm, and knitted scarves are perfect for every day. Try this wool-blend Lululemon style in Chrome / Opal, or the Ted Baker Jacquard knitted scarf in pink. From big, bold letters to checkered patterns, a statement scarf is the key to looking chic and layering like a pro.

Puffer Vest

URBAN OUTFITTERS$79

Vests are the perfect opportunity to bring in color to your look. They are warm enough to act as a valuable layering piece under a coat, but can also be worn indoors. Pair this oversized pink vest from Urban Outfitters with a fitted long sleeve underneath and leggings for the perfect class look, or with jeans and a hoodie for an outfit equally as comfort able as it is cool. Gap also offers a shiny puffer vest made out of 100% recycled polyester—it truly doesn’t get better than that!

Clear Purse

DEPOP - $17

Clear accessories are all the rage among Moda’s staff this winter, and De pop has a multitude of beautiful and affordable options. Model this style with white and gold details, matched with a colorful jacket or vest and white boots. A clear handbag is not only a statement piece, but also stadium-ap proved. With a winter full of concerts and sporting events ahead, this purse is an accessory for the win.

7Wool Coat

ARKET - $275

While floor length parkas are certainly a necessity in the winters, try mixing in short er coats for days when the sun is shining as you walk around shops or grab a bite with friends. This lilac coat, by the Swedish sustain able brand named Arket, hits right below the hips and is made to be slightly oversized to give a comfy feel. You can try pairing this piece with a white turtle neck underneath, black or white jeans and a white purse thrown over your shoulder. It is also Respon sible Wool Standard certified, meaning you can feel as good about the creation of the jacket as you feel wearing it. If you are looking for a longer option, try Reformation’s Bromley coat, a relaxed fit midi coat with a trendy black and white checkerboard print.

Fuzzy Gloves

POSHMARK - $49

While thinking of gloves may not immedi ately bring “fashion statement” to mind, many retailers are offering chic options that provide as much beauty as they do durability. Ugg produces gloves that are a worthy investment, includ ing pairs with a faux fur trim and some with quilted detailing. This crisp, white pair will go perfectly with white snow boots, and makes for a cozy outfit from head to toe.

9Printed Socks

LISA SAYS GAH - $24

Socks are often an after thought—for me, at least— but are nonetheless an invaluable step in the layering process. Stocking up on warm, fuzzy or long socks is a must when preparing for the long winter ahead. While basics are necessary, mixing in a printed pair that peeks out just above your boots is an easy way to add color to your look. Try this funky patterned pair from Lisa Says Gah, or browse more colorful options at retailers like Urban Outfitters and more.

10Tall Rubber Boots

STEVE MADDEN - $149

No matter the chatter about whether or not knee high boots are falling out of style, they will always be a staple in my book. From sleek leather options like Sam Edelman’s Freda Black Croc Boot—which also come in hot pink and are perfect for a girls’ night out—to the Vince Camuto white leather ruched Armonda boot, there are a multitude of options for a dressy or casual look. For more practical wear, try Steve Madden’s fresh take on the durable rain boot by opting for this all white pair. Schutz also offers a tall rain boot in Lilac, which is a perfect match to the Arket coat and can be beautifully paired with white leggings, a simple white top and a beanie to top it off.

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When Ice Turns To WaTer, The World Falls aparT

THE ENDANGERMENT OF ARCTIC ANIMALS DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE AND CAPITALISM

Written by Elizabeth Karnowski, Culture Staff Writer

Graphic by Shea Murphy, Contributing Graphic Artist

The

glossy, frozen, winterwonderland essence of the Arctic Circle continues to disintegrate as the effects of climate change increase. Icy climates are growing warmer by the year, contributing to the endangerment of several longappreciated arctic species.

The Arctic is impacted by global warming more than any oth er place in the world. It’s a basic fact of science that ice turns to water when

it melts. Because the ice in the Arctic is melting, there’s a higher amount of water on Earth to absorb sunlight. As a result, the world gets warmer and sea levels rise.1

Expansion in oil and gas drilling in the Arctic further pollutes the arctic en vironment. Direct contact to oil and gas causes immediate and potentially fatal damage to animals, but there are invisible threats that come from the oils, too.2 Toxic substances from oil and gas stay on ice and in water, cre ating lasting damage to polar bears’ health and the Arctic Tundra biome.

A lot of conservation efforts are target ed towards polar bears due to their im portance to other wildlife in the Arctic and their spot at the top of the food chain.3 As the climate changes, there are fewer opportunities for polar bears to hunt and store energy, leading to unhealthier animals. Polar bears with poor health have lower reproduction rates, which can eventually lead to ex tinction.4 Polar bears rely on ice caps to hunt and as the climate gets warmer, melting the ice, it becomes signifi cantly more difficult for the animals to catch their food.5

1 “The Arctic & Global Warming,” Green Peace, accessed Nov. 2021.

2 Ibid.

3 “Threats to Polar Bears,” World Wildlife Fund, accessed Nov. 2021.

4 Ibid.

Although conservation efforts focus largely on protecting polar bears, oth er arctic species are also in danger of losing their homes.

Walruses, for instance, are now at risk of losing their prey and shelter. The species depends on sea ice to lay on but as the ice melts, they are left sit ting onshore. While seemingly harm less, the situation can turn deadly when the area is overcrowded; at times up to 35,000 walruses can end up in the same area in a deadly stampede.6 Sea ice offers a rich place for walruses to find food, and as it melts, they must swim further from their babies to pro vide nourishment to their kin.7

Furthermore, it becomes difficult for reindeer and caribou to find food as climate change leads to old plants dying and new, unfamiliar species of plants growing in their place. Eventu ally, these creatures have to adapt to the new forms of food, but it takes the efforts of reversing thousands of years of current diet adaption.8

The narwhal, while sometimes be lieved to be a fictional animal, is a real species that is also in peril due to cli mate change. As the amount of ice decreases, so does their shelter used for rest and refuge. Not only does their shelter space continue to decrease, the competition for food increases.

5 Henry Fountain, “Global Warming is Driving Polar Bears Toward Extinc tion, Research ers Say,” The New York Times,

July 20, 2020.

6 “Walrus,” World Wildlife Fund, accessed Nov. 2021.

7 “Pacific Walrus,” Defenders of Wildlife, accessed Nov. 2021.

8 “Reindeer and Caribou,” World Wildlife Fund, accessed Nov. 2021.

This competition may eventually lead to predation, further increasing the risk of narwhals losing their lives.9

Research indicates that 100 companies are responsible for 71% of global emis sions: The quicker brands realize this and follow suit with corrective environ mental action, the sooner the effects of climate change can plateau.10 Several companies have led the way in taking increased accountability for their role in harming the Arctic. In 2019, The Arctic Corporate Shipping Pledge start ed a commitment by consumer goods companies to not ship their products through the Arctic.11 Companies like Aritzia, Nike, Ralph Lauren and Asos, among others, have already taken the pledge for their conservation efforts.

9 “Narwhals and Climate Change Fact Sheet,” Convention on Migratory Species, n.d.

10 Tess Riley, “Just 100 companies responsible for 71% of global emissions, study says,” The Guard ian, July 10, 2017.

11 “Take the Arctic Corporate Shipping Pledge,” Ocean Conservancy, n.d.

Other companies have taken their ini tiatives a step further by incorporating saving the Arctic into their brand image. In 2011, Coca-Cola and the World Wild life Fund (WWF) became partners to raise money for the protection of polar bears’ Arctic habitat.12 This partnership was a result of Coca-Cola’s commit ment to contributing to a more sustain able environment, using polar bears on their packaging to bring awareness to the partnership and the cause.

Many brands have acknowledged their awareness of climate change by pub licly announcing their commitments to help stabilize the global tempera ture. However it is important to note that companies promising a net-zero by 2050 or other over-arching claims aren’t doing enough. Companies must take a step above performative mea sures to ensure their production has

12 “Coca Cola and World Wildlife Fund Launch “Arctic Home” Campaign for Polar Bear Protec tion,” The Arctic Institute, November 17, 2011.

the smallest possible impact on the environement—our future wellbeing depends on it.

As individuals, we can practice sustain able living by supporting local, sustain able businesses, switching to renew able sources of energy, driving electric vehicles and overall advocating for a healthier planet.13

Being educated about the severity of climate change in the Arctic Circle is one way to acknowledge that as arc tic species become more endangered, the endangerment of other species will soon follow. Preserving essential parts of our ecosystem such as the Arctic takes a village, but it’s a worthwhile ef fort to ensure the longevity and diver sity of life on Earth. ■

13 David Herring, “What can we do to slow or stop global warming?” Climate.gov, October 29, 2020.

Diamond (Alternatives) are a Girl's Best

THE ETHICAL DILEMMA OF DIAMONDS AND YOUR NEW ALTERNATIVES

Written by Braden Ross, Culture Editorial Assistant Graphic by Nicole Glesinger, Contributing Graphic Artist

Contraryto James Bond’s catchy phrase, diamonds might not be forever. Although diamond sales have increased in the past year,1 diamond skepticism and hesitancy have been on the rise over the past two decades. More and more young people are turning to diamond alternatives for various reasons.

For one, there are significant human rights concerns that come with mined diamonds. In the early 2000s, the diamond industry in Africa, whose mines produce 65% of the world’s dia monds,2 became the center of discus sions about the ethics of diamonds. Campaigns to oppose the purchase of so-called “blood diamonds,” dia monds mined in war zones and used to fund armed conflict, spread across the globe and raised awareness of the is sue.3 Also called conflict diamonds, the production of these gems raises flags on an array of human rights violations, from forced labor and child labor to harassment, torture and mass murder.4

In response to growing public con cerns, efforts have been made to curb the conflict diamond issue. In 2003, the diamond industry created the Kimberley Process, an international certification process that provides a way for consumers to be sure their diamonds are conflict-free.5 However, many feel that the Kimberley Process does not go nearly far enough, as its definition of “conflict-free” is narrow and only focused on the diamonds that

1 Pamela N. Danziger, “Diamond Jewelry Sales Come Roaring Back, But The Bubble May Be About To Burst,” Forbes, Aug. 8, 2021.

2 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

3 Ibid.

4

“Diamond Trade Still Fuels Human Suffering,” Human Rights Watch, May 10, 2018.

5 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

(Alternatives) Friend

benefit armed rebel groups, not abu sive governments.6 In addition, it only applies to rough diamonds, meaning that cut and polished diamonds from unethical sources can slip through the cracks.7 Many have called for an ex pansion of the Kimberley Process to include unfair labor practices, human rights abuses and environmental con cerns as disqualifying factors as well as stricter protocols to avoid approv ing smuggled diamonds.8

In addition to human rights concerns, the diamond industry, like many others, has faced criticism for its environmen tal impact. Contributions to climate change from emissions created by min ing and transporting diamonds, defor estation, water contamination and pol lution are all environmental issues that have been raised.9 In response, some diamond mining companies are taking steps to reduce their environmental impact. In 2020, the world’s largest di amond producer, De Beers, announced a plan to be carbon neutral by 2030.10 Although the industry does present environmental concerns, they are not significantly worse than producers of fast fashion or agriculture, and some diamond alternatives have similar, if not worse, impacts on the climate.

While many people are choosing dia mond alternatives because of ethical and environmental concerns, others are simply not willing to pay hefty prices for a diamond, especially when

6 “Diamond Trade Still Fuels Human Suffering, accessed Nov. 2021.

7 Ibid

8 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

9 Oliver Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Dia monds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” The Guardian, March 10, 2020.

10 “De Beers Plans to Clean up Diamond Supply Chain, Be Carbon Neutral by 2030,” Reuters, Nov. 30, 2020.

alternatives of nearly the same quality exist for a fraction of the cost.

Furthermore, for some, diamonds— specifically, diamond engagement rings—are desirable for their tradition and status. However, a growing num ber of young people are ditching new ly mined diamonds for their less ex pensive and more ethical alternatives. What are these other options, and are they better than a timeless stone?

SYNTHETIC STONES

Synthetic diamonds with the same chemical and physical properties as naturally-mined diamonds can now be produced in a lab. These lab-grown stones come at a lower cost than their mined counterparts and eliminate the human rights concerns that come along with diamonds from conflict zones. However, synthetic diamonds provide significantly fewer jobs than mined ones and an overwhelming switch to this alternative could re sult in a massive loss of employment, particularly in low-income countries where diamonds are found. In Congo, nearly 10% of the population relies on income from the diamond industry.11

Losing the revenue generated from the mined diamond industry to the synthetic one could have catastrophic consequences for those who make a living in the mines.

Contrary to what lab-grown diamond producers would have you believe, this synthetic alternative is not necessarily more environmentally friendly, either. In fact, in 2019, the Federal Trade Com mission (FTC) sent out warning letters to several synthetic diamond compa nies warning them against making mis leading claims of “sustainability and 11 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

eco-friendliness” in their advertising.12

According to a 2019 Trucost report, on average, greenhouse gas emissions are three times greater for synthet ic diamonds than for naturally mined ones.13 However, it is important to note that the report was commissioned by the Diamond Producers Association, a group that includes some of the world’s largest diamond mining com panies,14 and other studies have shown the opposite to be true.15

The environmental impact of labgrown diamonds is due to the amount of energy it takes to produce them. The process traditionally relies heavily on fossil fuels, but switching to renew able energy resources could alleviate concerns and improve the ethics be hind the lab-grown rock.16

Beyond synthetic diamonds, there are other lab-grown stones like moissani te and cubic zirconia that give a sim ilar look and feel to real diamonds at a much lower price than both mined and synthetic ones. Cubic zirconia is the cheapest at $20 for one-carat, compared to $1,800 to $12,000 for a one-carat diamond.17

OTHER NATURAL STONES

For some, choosing another stone en tirely is the best option. Sapphires have been used in engagement rings for hundreds of years and were even more

12

“FTC Sends Warning Letters to Companies Re garding Diamond Ad Disclosures,” Federal Trade Commission, April 2, 2019.

13 Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Diamonds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” accessed Nov. 2021.

14 Ibid.

15

“Diamond Alternatives,” Clean Origin, accessed Nov. 2021.

16 Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Diamonds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” accessed Nov. 2021.

17 “Diamond vs. Cubic Zirconia: How to Tell the Difference?” ThePeachBox, accessed Nov. 2021.

expensive than diamonds at one point due to their high demand.18 White sap phires give a similar look to diamonds for a fraction of the cost. Colored sap phires can give a unique look, although they can be just as pricey as diamonds and could come with similar ethical and environmental concerns. Other stones like rubies and emeralds also come with ethical issues but tend to be less expensive.

VINTAGE/RECYCLED

DIAMONDS

Perhaps one of the most appealing al ternatives to buying newly-mined dia monds is to go for recycled ones. Like thrifting clothes, buying diamonds that have been used before eliminates practically all of the environmental and ethical concerns of diamond produc tion. Although the origin of a recycled diamond can’t always be traced, pur chasing the diamond from a diamond recycler or pawn shop eliminates the risk that your money would be sup porting authoritative regimes, armed rebels or human rights violations. Still, because recycled diamonds have the same properties as newly-mined ones, they go for the same price.

Diamond recycling is already somewhat common with the tradition of passing down engagement rings through fam ilies. This is a great way to keep a fam ily tradition alive and to honor loved ones while also being environmentally friendly and socially ethical.

FAIR TRADE DIAMONDS

This is not a concept that exists yet, but it could soon. The idea of fair trade products began in the years following World War II and has grown since then to reach all corners of the world.19 Fair trade ensures that companies have fair labor practices, provide sustainable live lihoods and focus on environmental jus tice.20 The movement has spread from artisanal goods to food, beauty prod ucts and more, so why not diamonds?

Discussions of the expansion of the Kimberley Process have become in creasingly common and consumers are more conscious than ever on the ethics of their diamond purchases.

18“Diamond Alternatives,” Clean Origin, accessed Nov. 2021.

19 “Our Role in the Fair Trade Movement,” Fair Trade Certified, accessed Nov. 2021.

20 Amy Shoenthal, “What Exactly Is Fair Trade, And Why Should We Care?” Forbes, Dec. 14, 2018.

From Marilyn Monroe’s “Di amonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” to “Titanic’s” Hope Diamond, diamonds hold an important cultural connota tion in Western society. How ever, an increasingly aware public has created space to both celebrate tradition and raise concerns of ethics.

Because so many rely on diamonds to make a living, a fair trade diamond certification could be a great solution to the issue of unethical diamond pro duction. Fair trade certification would assure consumers that their diamonds are coming from ethical sources and that their money is being returned to workers fairly rather than being used for nefarious purposes.

From Marilyn Monroe’s “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” to “Titanic’s” Hope Diamond, diamonds hold an important cultural connotation in Western soci ety. However, an increasingly aware public has created space to both cel ebrate tradition and raise concerns of ethics. It’s unlikely that diamonds will fall out of the gemstone picture any time soon, but with growing aware ness, we can expect consumers to shift their demand toward ethically-pro duced alternatives.

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Breaking The Ice ceiling

THE HISTORY AND IMPACT OF GENDER ROLES IN WOMEN'S HOCKEY

Written by Mason Braasch, Lifestyle Editor

Graphic by Alyssa Cohen, Contributing Graphic Artist

Whatimage comes to mind when you hear the word “hockey?” Most likely, it’s a picture of large, sweaty men with missing teeth, brutally punching each other on the ice. Now, picture a petite middle school girl who loves to wear clothes with sparkles and curl her hair for school. That girl, surprisingly, is a hockey player—she is also me.

When I played hockey during my tween years, I often felt out of place. While I loved the sport, I was ridiculed for be ing “too girly to be a hockey player,” and told I needed to hang up my hock ey skates for figure skates simply be cause I showed up to an after-school practice wearing a skirt.

Society’s view of hockey is one of may hem and aggression. While these as pects of the sport are what make it be loved by many, it has trapped female players into specific stereotypes and blocked them from getting the same respect as their male counterparts.1

The inequity of women’s ice hockey is rooted in a history of gendered ideals within the sport that continues to im pact female hockey players today.

Although women began to play hock ey when it was first introduced to the U.S. in the early nineteenth century, it became more popular in the years

1 “Putting the Struggle for Gender Equality on Ice,” Pique Newsmagazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

following World War I—a time when female enrollment in college was on the rise.2 Women’s hockey teams were popular on college campuses and in cities like Boston and New York.3 How ever, as more and more women took to the sport, debates about how the sport undermined women’s morality and gender roles started to develop.4

Hockey gave women the opportunity to present themselves as strong and established a female image outside of what was traditionally accepted in society. In the same way that flappers became the infamous image of an em powered and untraditional woman, fe male hockey players were questioned for their morals and threatened by the fragility of conventional gender roles.5

Shortly after they gained popularity in the early 1900s, women’s hockey teams quickly began to dwindle. As ama teur athletic sponsors and commercial funders backed off due to criticism sur rounding the morality of the sport for women, many teams lacked the funds, resources or support to continue. Al though women’s hockey has grown in popularity since the late 1900s, the impact of the sport being framed as a threat to proper female behavior still affects the women in the sport today.6

2 “A Century Ago, Women Played Ice Hockey,” Jstor Daily, accessed Nov. 2021.

3 Ibid. 4 Ibid.

5 Ibid. 6 Ibid.

While young boys in the sport often have dreams of being drafted to the National Hockey League (NHL), their female counterparts have far less to hope for. The only professional wom en’s hockey league in North America, The Premier Hockey Federation, start ed not long ago in 2015 and has lim ited opportunities for compensation7

The gap between male and female players’ salaries speaks for itself—the highest-paid male hockey player in the 2021-2022 season will make $16.4 million compared to the highest-paid player of the Premiere Hockey Feder ation’s $25,000.8

Hockey is a beloved sport nation wide—especially here in the Midwest. Although women have long excelled at the sport, the narrow perceptions of what a hockey player should look like force young players to try and fit into rigid stereotypes. For hockey to continue to evolve within a shifting sports culture, the industry must cre ate more opportunities for young fe male players in the future, and let go of existing stereotypes—including the idea that badass hockey players can’t wear sparkly skirts. ■

7 Alex Azzi, “The Current State of Professional Women’s Hockey, Explained,” On Her Turf, Jan. 20, 2021.

8 Brett Knight, “Highest-Paid NHL Players 202122,” Forbes Magazine, Oct. 27, 2021

Butcher and Lily Dawson, Creative Team Staff

Assisted by Ally McNeive and Yejin Kim, Creative Team Contributors

Photographed by Audrey O'Neill, Photography Director, and Molly Jacobs, Staff Photographer

Modeled by Claire Michel

Makeup by Riley August, Makeup Director

Hair by Rachel Collins, Guest Contributor

Special thanks to Madeleine Olson, Programming and Special Events Coordinator, for contributing original designed top

Co-Directed by Sam Starks, Creative Director, Ella McCue, Alejandra

'Tis The (Scrub) Season

GIVE YOUR SKIN THE GIFT IT DESERVES

Written by Mi Chuinda Levy, Lifestyle Staff Writer

Photographed by Anna Janke, Contributing Photographer

It’sabout that time where the temperatures begin to drop and snow begins to fall. It can be easy to get lost in the hustle and bustle of winter wonderland, but it’s important to remember to take care of yourself in these cold and busy months. Not only can Wisconsin winter weather be brutally cold, but it can do damage to your skin, making it extremely dry. You can easily give your skin the tender love and care that it needs with ingredients you most likely already have at home. The answer to your winter skin problems could be as simple as scrubs!

Sugar scrubs for the body and lips are all about making your skin feel soft and glowy. They gently exfoliate and aid in getting rid of blemishes and uneven ness.1 Take it a step further by adding natural scents and oils, which can give your skin and lips an extra nourishing boost and leave them smelling great— and feeling even better.

With three simple and natural ingre dients, luscious feeling lips and skin are on the way. Sugar, coconut oil and honey—that’s it! Even during the busy season, you can make enough body and lip scrub to last you through the entire winter in just 10 to 15 minutes.

Body Scrub

INGREDIENTS

- ¼ cup of sugar

- ½ cup of coconut oil

- 1-2 tablespoons of citrus zest (optional)

- 10 -15 drops of peppermint, lavender, or vanilla essential oil**(optional)

- 1 teaspoon of vitamin E oil (optional)

*This recipe will make enough scrub for about one medium mason jar. To create your desired amount, use a 1:2 ratio of sugar to coconut oil*

SUPPLIES

- Measuring cups

- Measuring spoons

- Medium mason jar

- Small bowl

- Spoon

INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Combine sugar and coconut oil in a bowl.

Step 2: Mix until well blended.

Step 3: (Optional) Add essential oils, citrus zest, and/or vitamin E oil.

Step 4: Put the body scrub into a ma son jar and enjoy!.

Lip Scrub

INGREDIENTS

- ⅛ cup of sugar

1 Erin Henry, “Benefits of Sugar Scrubs for Your Skin,” Suburban Simplicity, June 3, 2020.

**Although you can use any essential oil scent, always test your skin’s sensitivity to the essential oil you plan to use. Some essential oils can be more harsh on the skin so it is always best to test a small amount of the oil on your skin to see how your skin could react. For stronger essential oils, start with a few drops of the oil and increase the amount to your liking.

- ¼ cup of coconut oil

- ⅛ cup of honey

- 1-2 teaspoons of citrus zest (option al)

- 5 -8 drops of peppermint, lavender, or vanilla essential oil** (optional)

- ½ teaspoon of vitamin E oil (optional)

*This recipe will make enough scrub for about one small mason jar. To cre ate your desired amount, use a 1:2:1 ra tio of sugar to coconut oil to honey*

SUPPLIES

- Measuring cups

- Measuring spoons

- Small mason jar or lip balm container

- Small bowl

- Spoon INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Step 1: Combine sugar and co conut oil in a bowl.

Step 2: Mix until well blended.

Step 3: Add honey until you reach a consistency you are happy with.

* Pro Tip: A little honey goes a long way! Start with small amounts.

Step 4: (Optional) Add essential oils, citrus zest, and/or vitamin E oil.

Step 5: Put the lip scrub into a small jar.

Be sure to add a label and date to all of your scrubs; they will be good for about six months. To make them more festive for the holiday season, add a cute label design and attach it to the jar with some seasonal ribbon. After treat ing yourself—don’t be shy— spread the wealth! Making these scrubs and giv ing them to friends and family as gifts is a perfect, inexpensive option for this holiday season.

Both the body and lip scrub recipes were adapted from “Easy homemade sugar scrub” by Eating by Elaine.2 ■

2 “Easy homemade sugar scrub.” Eating by Elaine, Oct. 8, 2021.

A MAstercl Ass in gl Ass

THE HISTORY, PROCESS AND LOCAL CONNECTIONS OF GLASS BLOWING

Written by Sam Downey, Arts Staff Writer

Graphic by Mac Gale, Staff Graphic Artist

WhenI was a senior in high school, my art class took a field trip to visit the UW-Madison Glass Lab. My mind, like the glass the artists worked with, was blown. I watched, spellbound, as students not much older than myself twirled massive metal rods with glowing globs of molten glass on the end. They moved swiftly and confidently, shaping the formless orange masses into delicate pieces of glassware before my eyes, and I remember wondering how on Earth one develops that kind of skill.

People have been glassblowing since the first century BCE, when Syrian craftsmen began producing blown glass vessels and trading them throughout the Roman Empire.1 Today, you may be familiar with the art form from videos on Instagram or TikTok or even from the Netflix series, “Blown Away.”

For those who don’t have much famil iarity with the concept, glassblowing is a process by which molten glass is shaped by an artist blowing air through a metal pipe to inflate the material like

1 “The History of Glass,” Sacramento Art Glass, accessed Nov. 2021.

a superheated soap bubble.2 The exact steps vary according to what is being made, but first, glass must be heated in a 1000°F crucible until it reaches a molasses-like consistency. Next, the glassblower—or “gaffer”—gathers the glass onto the end of a metal blowpipe and spins it to keep the blob of glass symmetrical. When the glass is ready, the gaffer blows a puff of air through the pipe to create a bubble, then be gins a pattern of shaping and blowing and shaping again that continues until they are satisfied with the result.3

In the 1960s, the world of glassblow ing was transformed by the Ameri can Studio Glass Movement, which centered around exploring sculptural forms in glass and breaking away from the idea that glassware had to serve a specific function.4 One of the orig inators of this movement was Harvey Littleton, a professor at UW-Madison and founder of the University’s glass program, which was the first of its kind in the United States.5

2 “The Process of Blowing Glass,” Sacramento Art Glass, accessed Nov. 2021.

3 Ibid.

4 “The American Studio Glass Movement,” Corn ing Museum of Glass, Oct. 5, 2011.

5 Ibid.

You may have heard of Littleton’s stu dent Dale Chihuly, or at least recognize his curling, asymmetrical spiral glass sculptures. Chihuly is a UW-Madison alum, and his work can be found in over 200 museums around the world, including in the Milwaukee Art Mu seum lobby, which proudly hosts a 15-foot-tall piece entitled “Isola di San Giacomo in Palude Chandelier II.”6 This sculpture is a massive, fiery-looking explosion of glass bubbles and curli cues in vibrant primary colors. Another local example of Chihuly’s work is the “Mendota Wall” installation in the Kohl Center, which was donated as a tribute to his alma mater.7

Today, UW-Madison still offers sev eral glassblowing classes to both un dergraduate and graduate students through the Glass Lab at the Art Lofts. Students have the opportunity to prac tice a variety of glass art forms—not only glassblowing but also less tradi tional mediums such as the incorpora tion of custom neon lights into sculp ture work.8

The University also has a resident sci entific glassblower, Tracy Drier, who works with the chemistry labs to cre ate custom pieces for testing specific types of reactions in cutting-edge re search. Drier has created art installa tions such as the “Crossroads of Art and Science” exhibit displayed in the Madison Children’s Museum in 2019. This exhibit aimed to educate people about the discipline of scientific glass blowing, one which is dedicated to de signing and constructing precise, glass instruments by hand for use in all man ner of scientific pursuits.9

Glassblowing is a unique art form in that its applications range from purely aesthetic, such as Chihuly’s sculptures, to the purely functional custom pieces made by scientific glassblowers, such as Drier, with plenty of melting room in between. As these masters—and the students I was in awe of in my youth— can attest, glassblowing has deep roots and a bright future at UW-Madison. ■

6 Mel Buchanan, “Celebrating Chihuly in Wiscon sin,” Milwaukee Art Museum Blog, May 17, 2013.

7 “Dale Chihuly - The Mendota Wall,” Public Art at UW-Madison, accessed Nov. 2021.

8 “UW-Madison Glass,” Facebook, March 2013.

9 Kaitlyn Moore, “Master glassblower’s art, work on exhibit at Madison Children’s Museum,” UW-Madison News, March 14, 2019

APRéS-SKI in Style

FASHION'S ASTOUNDING IMPACT ON SKI CULTURE

Written by Ava McNarney, Contributing Writer Graphic by Arella Warren, Deputy Editor

WhenI hear après-ski, I think of snow-capped mountains, wooden chalets and affluent French people. While the term directly translates to English as “after skiing,” the nature of the sport has resulted in an elegant connotation of the cultural term. Après-ski fashion—although long viewed as something only attainable by the wealthy—has finally begun to emerge as an accessible and versatile aesthetic for the general ski community and beyond. The genre has made leaps and bounds in availability, not only to other areas within the fashion realm but in its cultural diversification as well.

Après-ski style has evolved through fashion history, just like one ideally tran sitions from hill to lodge. From rainbow performance suits to plaid flannel shirts and oversized snowboard jackets, the aesthetic has been a fashion favorite for trendy skiers and snowboarders for years. This includes high fashion icons such as Princess Diana and Audrey Hepburn, who have maintained their sought after look even on the ski hill, radiating in elegant fur-hooded jackets and chic snowsuits.1 Freezing tempera tures and snowstorms alike have failed to deter the most stylish from leaving their mark on the fashion world.

As the après-ski aesthetic grows in popularity, many favorite name brands have begun incorporating it into their winter collections. Free People, for example, has released ski collections every winter since 2018, which are typ ically full of muted tones and fur-lined pieces.2 The company subtly hints at the limitlessness of après-ski fashion through a coalescence of new and old trends. Particularly, it makes an asser tion on futuristic and bohemian trends and their major potential in entering the world of après-ski by way of casual and luxury ski brands.

As this unique genre of fashion pro gresses, luxury items have begun to conflict with the aesthetic’s intention. Albeit these pieces have a reputation as gatekeepers, not only of the ski style but the entire sport itself, invest ing in a few high-quality pieces can be more cost-effective in the long run in addition to refining your look on the

1 Jennifer Algoo, “#theLIST: Snow Bunny Icons,” Bazaar, 2014.

2 Heather Hansman, “Why is Free People Sud denly Making Ski Apparel?” Outside, 2018.

Style iS fed by individuAlity And cReAtive exPReSSion, elitiSt gRouPS ARe not.

slopes. A jacket from a European ski outfitter—for example, Eider or Helly Hansen—is admittedly pricier, but is bound to last you many more winters than its less-quality counterpart.3 Even a sophisticated headband can elevate an après-ski outfit; accessories are more than welcome in the ski lodge. If you’re intimidated by the glamorous atmosphere of the current ski world, you probably won’t be for much lon ger. The après-ski aesthetic is rapidly evolving to allow access to those who previously felt excluded from the sport.

The inclusion of après-ski in designer collection showcases is a striking ex ample of this growth. The Miu Miu 2021 Fall/Winter show, in particular, stands out as a fantastic introduction of ski style to the high fashion world in a cul turally inclusive manner through a di verse model casting.4 Miu Miu’s vibrant crochet scarves and vests are reminis cent of vintage ski staples while main taining a sense of novelty. The contrast between the minimalistic mountain backdrop of the line’s photographed shoot and ethnically diverse model casting is more than just a revelation of a ski hill’s often overlooked beauty, but a step towards cultural change.

This inclusion reveals a lack of, and therefore the potential for, expressive 3“10 European Ski Jacket Brands to Have Fun in the Mountains,” Casual Geographic, 2021 4 Anders Christian Madsen, “Miu Miu,” Vogue, 2021.

change in other historically exclusive communities. Believing that a sport that has for so long been gatekept by white and wealthy folks can evolve through fashion to open its doors to include the greater public, shows that interest in style must have the gravi ty to do so in other areas as well. The power of aesthetics is incredibly un dervalued, especially within the sports realm. If people can maintain an inter est in style from the ski hill to chalet in even the coldest temperatures, they can do so anywhere.

The potential consequences must be kept in mind with the growth of aes thetic interest in après-ski style. The detriment of rules on the fashion world and their relevance within historically exclusive communities, such as ski cul ture, undeniably conflict. Style is fed by individuality and creative expres sion, elitist groups are not. If this can be overcome, après-ski fashion could be a groundbreaking example of the positive effect of fashion culture on class tensions.

Whether you’re a lifelong skier or you have yet to make your first attempt, the après-ski aesthetic is a uniquely classic and dynamic domain for all to explore. By staying in touch with style as you traverse the ski world, you can push your own personal boundaries as well as challenging an entire culture.

■

If thiS cAn be oveRcome, APRèS-SKi fAShion could be A gRoundbReAKing exAmPle of the PoSitive effect of fAShion cultuRe on clASS tenSionS.

fReSh fAceS of

Looking

back on 2021, it’s hard to pinpoint any other moment in time where television, movies and music have played such a pivotal role in our daily lives. After being deprived of face time and close contact with each other for so long, we’re not yet used to not turning to our screens for company. While the existing greats in their respective industries have been killing it, as usual, this year brought recognition to a variety of new faces in the entertainment industry. With Netflix holding nothing back, the film industry coming back to life and albums being released left and right, 2021 has kept me at the edge of my seat and gloriously entertained all year long.

The talent of so many stars has shone brightly this year, making it difficult to decipher which were the best and brightest—not to mention the newest. To shine a spotlight specif ically on the actors and musicians that were relatively unknown before their work in 2021, I compiled a list of names that have been all the buzz both online and in social circles. Here are the rising stars no list would be complete without.

televISIon & fIlm

PHOEBE DYNEVOR

This 26-year-old British actress burst into the Hollywood scene unexpected ly early this year when she appeared as Daphne Bridgerton in the breakout leading role of Netflix’s smash hit ro mantic drama series, “Bridgerton.” Be fore we knew what hit us, Dynevor had us imagining life in Regency era En gland and burning for her character’s tumultuous relationship with the rak ish Duke of Hastings, letting us forget the global pandemic and brutal winter raging outside our bedchambers.

Written by Kylie Hynes, Contributing Writer

Graphic by Jessica Tenenbaum, Staff Graphic Artist

As the face of the record-breaking, Shonda Rhimes production that be came the most-watched series Net flix had ever released with 63 million views—up until “Squid Game” topped it just this year—Dynevor was catapult ed to international stardom in the blink of an eye.1 Currently filming “The Co

1 Khal, “The 10 most watched Netflix TV shows of All time,” Complex, 2021.

THE RISING STARS THAT REIGNED OVER THE TELEVISION, FILM AND MUSIC INDUSTRIES THIS YEAR

lour Room” in which she’ll portray the famous English ceramic artist, Clarice Cliff, and of course, the highly antici pated Season 2 of “Bridgerton,” Dynev or’s in-demand status is not looking to be threatened any time soon.2

HOYEON JUNG

2021 gifted us with yet another rising star in HoYeon Jung. After skyrocket ing to international stardom follow ing her breakout role as North Korean defector Sae-byeok in “Squid Game,” Jung has quickly become the most-fol lowed South Korean actress on Insta gram, with 400,000 followers at the start of the show’s release to over 23 million only months later.3

For many Americans, we might only be familiar with her from the Netflix se ries, but the model-turned-actress has been in the public eye for far longer than you might think. In 2013, at age 18, Jung was the runner-up on Season 4 of “Korea’s Next Top Model” and has since become one of the world’s most sought-after supermodels.4 To say her acting debut was a success would be a gross understatement.

ANA DE ARMAS

No list would be complete without Ana de Armas. Her breakout perfor mance as Marta Cabrera in “Knives Out” that earned her a Golden Globe nomination may not have occurred this year, but 2021 was nonetheless a momentous year for the Cuban-Span ish actress, and 2022 might be look ing brighter yet.5

Ana stole the show in this year’s re lease of Daniel Craig’s final James Bond movie, “No Time to Die,” in which she played a CIA agent, Paloma. Plus, she’s looking forward to the release of two notable films next year. Starring alongside Ben Affleck in “Deep Wa ter” and portraying Hollywood icon

2 Megan Behnke, “Netflix’s Bridgerton Star Phoe be Dynevor now set to star in another romantic novel adaptation,” Cinemablend, Aug 19, 2021.

³ India Robi, “Jung Ho-Yeon’s style evolution, from runway model to ‘squid game’ star,” Nylon, Nov 9, 2021.

⁴ India Robi, “‘squid game’ star Jung Ho-yeon landed a major fashion gig,” Nylon, Oct 20, 2021.

⁵ Becky Burgum, “24 celebrity names you need to know for 2021 to stay ahead of the curve,” ELLE, April 1, 2021.

Marilyn Monroe as the lead in the 2022 biographical drama, “Blonde,” Ana de Armas is letting us know that we hav en’t seen anything yet.6

muSIc

OLIVIA RODRIGO

As one of the standout new artists of this year, Olivia Rodrigo is now on many of our radars. Like many pop sensations before her, Olivia used Dis ney as a platform to launch her sing ing career. Though Disney itself didn’t bring her much notoriety, Olivia rose to international fame overnight with the release of her double-platinum single, “Driver’s License,” in January of this year.

Within 24 hours of its release, “Driv er’s License” had us reliving the angst and heartbreak of our teenage years while simultaneously breaking Spo tify’s record for the most streams in a single day, a record which it then broke the following day 7 In Ameri ca, she became the first female artist to have a song debut at number one on the Billboard Hot 100 chart since Lauryn Hill in 1998, a song which re mained at the top of the said chart for the next six weeks straight.8

THE KID LAROI

Sydney-native Charleton Howard, bet ter known as The Kid Laroi, was dis covered on Soundcloud in 2019 by rap per Lil Bibby, who helped him secure a record deal with Grade A Productions that same year. Laroi went on to open for the late Juice Wrld on his 2019 tour until his tragic death at the end of that year.9 In January of this year, The Kid Laroi signed a massive record deal with Scooter Braun and Columbia records, joining the likes of Justin Bieber, Demi Lovato, Ariana Grande, Dan + Shay and countless other music icons.10

⁶ Ibid.

⁷ Brian Cantor, “Olivia Rodrigo’s “Drivers license” quickly earns 2x platinum certification in United States,” Headline Planet, Feb. 2021.

⁸ Mark Savage, “Olivia Rodrigo has become pop’s brightest new star - here’s how,” BBC News, May 21, 2021.

⁹ Leena Nasir, “The kid laroi: Fame rising faster than anyone imagined,” TheRichest, Aug 11, 2021.

10 Gary Trust, “The Kid Laroi & Justin Bieber’s ‘stay’ hits no. 1 on Billboard Hot 100,” Billboard, August 9, 2021.

Finding friendship with Justin Bieber secured Laroi a feature on Justin’s song “Unstable” and the roles soon re versed as Justin was then featured on his hit single “Stay,” released this July. “Stay” sat atop the Billboard Hot 100 for four weeks straight and made Laroi the youngest artist to ever hit number one on the same chart.11

MAISIE PETERS

I admit that until recently, I had never encountered the magic that is Maisie Peters. Her tuneful folk-pop songs, youthful charm and witty, relatable storytelling about the romantic trials of teenage life liken her music to that of Taylor Swift. From YouTube to Atlantic Records, her songs have amassed half a billion streams worldwide, and she’s sold-out major venues all without re leasing an album.12

However, it wasn’t until she signed with Ed Sheeran’s record label, Gingerbread Records, in June and released her de but album, “You Signed Up for This,” that she gained more widespread pop ularity.13 This led her to appear on “The Late Late Show With James Corden, ” to have two of her singles featured on the show “Love Island” and to write the soundtrack for the Apple TV drama “Trying.”14 With such a successful year, I’m confident Maisie Peters is a name we’ll be hearing quite a bit more of in the coming years.

Though names rise and fall, trends come and go and culture is constant ly shifting, the entertainment industry has the remarkable ability to freeze a moment in time. The faces of each respective industry reflect the unique climate and culture of every moment in history. The stars are always shining in Hollywood, but this year’s rising stars shone extra bright for the world to see, bringing light to the social and cultural condition that’s unique to 2021 alone and getting ready to bring their star power into 2022 and beyond.

■

11 Leena Nasir, “The kid laroi: Fame rising faster than anyone imagined,”TheRichest, August 11, 2021.

12 Mark Savage, “Maisie Peters: Meet the singer who’s been snapped up by Ed Sheeran,” BBC News, June 15, 2021.

13 Gemma Samways, “Meet Maisie Peters, the rising star signed by Ed Sheeran,” Yahoo! News, August 24, 2021.

14 Ibid.

Reflections on Reflections

VISUAL AND EMOTIONAL USES OF MIRRORS IN FILM

Written and modeled by Noa Chamberlin, Contributing Writer

Photographed by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer Makeup by Nicole Escobia, Contributing Makeup Artist

Have you ever watched a movie with a scene in which a character faces a mirror, staring at their reflection? Have you ever wondered how that angle was shot, or why you couldn’t see the camera or the cinematographer in the reflection? Maybe you’ve even wondered what that shot meant, both to the individual character and to the film as a whole. If you’re anything like me, these thoughts have crossed your mind—so I did some research and found that mirror shots are not as easy to film as they may seem. The process is complicated, and it involves intricate precision that audience members are often oblivious to.

Most mirror shots should be impossi ble to film without revealing the per son behind the camera, but cinema tographers and directors—being the clever creatives they are—find ways to make the movie set disappear. Some times, these scenes don’t incorporate a real mirror at all; they may involve two separate shots, one where the actor plays themself, and one where they play their own reflection. Or, cinematographers will utilize a blue screen and paste different shots into the scene, imitating what we would expect to see in a reflection.1

When a real mirror is used, a director can take multiple approaches. Some times the shot is captured by plac ing the camera at a covert angle that prevents it from being seen in the re flection. This approach is referred to as a reflection shot.2 One instance of

1 Jourdan Aldredge, “The Infamous Mirror Shot: How Filmmakers Make Cameras Disappear,” The Beat, June 17, 2021.

2 Newbie Film School, “How Do They Film A Mirror Without Showing A Camera? We Reveal It All!” July 30, 2021.

Mirrors are utilized in film time and time again because of the unique insight they provide into the psyche and mind of a story’s characters.

the reflection shot that shines is in the 1976 cult classic “Taxi Driver.” In the in famous “You talkin’ to me” scene, Rob ert De Niro’s character faces a mirror and imagines a confrontation in which he has to act tough and draw his gun. This type of shot is an effective sto rytelling tool as it gives viewers the feeling that we’re watching someone prepare for an event while simulta neously observing them from behind, as if we’re in the same room.3 In this particular case, the reflection is used to isolate De Niro’s image in the frame, revealing the broader theme of iso lation throughout the film and giving viewers a more intimate look into the character’s mind.

While physical mirrors may work for static shots, in moving shots—where the camera circles around a charac ter as they face their own reflection— 3 Ibid.

simply angling the camera won’t cut it. This is where it gets more compli cated. In the film “Sucker Punch,” for example, we see the use of a double reflection shot featuring two identical scenes. Sitting on the other side of a fake mirror, we see the actor, and on our side, we see their stunt double with their back to the camera, physi cally reflecting the character’s move ments to create the illusion of looking into a mirror. In “Sucker Punch,” as the camera circles around the characters, the set is changed and an actual mir ror is inserted, shifting the shot to a pure reflection to reveal a closer and more accurate look into the scene.4

Mirrors are utilized in film time and time again because of the unique insight they provide into the psyche

4 Jourdan Aldredge, “The Infamous Mirror Shot: How Filmmakers Make Cameras Disappear,” The Beat, June 17, 2021.

and mind of a story’s characters. Ac cording to film critic Sheila O’Malley, “When a character stares at them selves in a mirror, they drop the pub lic mask and let us see who they are when no one is watching.”5

Often, implementing a mirror scene allows a constructed image of one self to be stripped away.6 Being ful ly submerged in the authenticity of oneself is a private moment that is strategically captured by the cinema tographer, impacting the audience’s perception of both the character and the film. When characters are faced with their own reflection, they dis cover something about themselves and we, the audience, join them in that intimate discovery.

Many directors simply can not resist the temptation of exploiting the vi sual potentiality of mirrors, often em ploying multiple reflections in a single scene to create unique, duplicating effects.7 Characterization is further ad vanced with the use of mirrors, as they provide the audience with an inside look into intimate moments a charac ter experiences when staring face-toface with themselves.

When it comes to the movies, reflec tions share powerful insights, both the physical and emotional kind.8 A persona is never more vulnerable, nor has the capability to be stronger, than when staring at oneself. The visual weight present in these moments has been used since the inception of the medium and continues to the present day across cinematic narratives.

The reflection shot is one of the most powerful tools in cinema because its function is multi-faceted, just as it can be in real life. As we come to the end of 2021, we now have the chance to reflect on the past year in order to make positive changes for the future. It can be difficult to get to this point in our personal lives, but in both film and reality, the reward is well worth the hard work. Taking in spiration from reflections on-screen, I encourage you to reflect and embody a fresh start for 2022.

■

5 Sheila O’Malley, “Mirror, Mirror: When Movie Characters Look Back at Themselves,” Oscill Scope, May 9, 2019.

6 Ibid.

7 Riccardo Basso, “The 20 Best Uses of Mirrors in Cinema History,” Taste of Cinema, Sept. 13, 2016.

8 H. Perry Horton, “Looking Glass: A Supercut of Mirror Shots,” Film School Rejects, June 13, 2017.

Dripping in Resin

THE COLORFUL IMPLICATIONS OF THE LATEST ART TREND

Written by Nina Johnson, Arts Editorial Assistant Photographed by Hannah Huber, Staff Photographer Modeled by Emily Fleming, PR & Outreach Director

Trends,

either revered or abhorred, permeate our lives.

Since the pandemic, trends have been undeniably elevated in their viewership, in part because of social media, and in part out of forced boredom. Within the blanket of trends following quarantine, resin art entered the scene. Its emergence felt reminiscent of an early 2000s childhood, yet still offered a fresh take.

The rise of resin pertains to our current culture of movement, one where inspi ration and directions of art are con stantly changing. Though it can be hard to always keep up with the latest fad, there’s beauty in this cycle of change as well, and incredible art comes out of the process. Many of these move ments, such as the resin rage, are mar keted as accessible to all—whether that’s true or not—and contain mate rials that can be purchased locally and affordably. This, paired with society’s constantly evolving interests, helps to explain resin’s overnight leap into the trend cycle.

Resin isn’t new, though. Many creatives have shown passion for the malleabil ity of the substance for years; others find it reminiscent of past times. Gen Z’s childhood era was riddled with res in: in stores, in school and at home. The material’s recent spike in popularity, during a time when many were shut in doors and others prompted to return to their childhood homes, may not be entirely random. Not to say that we all regressed to a childlike version of ourselves while stuck inside, but get

ting to lose ourselves in the bright and shiny colors didn’t hurt. Quickly, make shift craft rooms overtook bedrooms and resin shops grew in demand.

Resin is a glossy, reactive liquid that cures into a solid plastic.1 That’s the basis of its appeal. Resin molds and colors in many different ways, allowing it to take virtually any form desired.

Just as new trends bring fun and ex citement, old trends resurfacing, es pecially during such a stressful time, provide a refreshing form of nostalgia.

As fads make their way full circle and reemerge on scene again, resin jewel ry and figurines serve an entertaining purpose. Resin doesn’t need to involve a large undertaking for it to have roots that sink deep.

Still, trend cycles go beyond a mat ter of mere style and opinion, and can quickly become harmful. La Manso, a jewelry company from Barcelona, grew in popularity for its unique resin ring creations. Alongside its growth in pop ularity, the company’s counterfeit coun terparts grew, too. If you Google search the company now, you’ll find numerous options from sites that are notorious for cheapening products, in both ma terial and price, before you are shown the real thing. Monopolizing hubs like Amazon or AliExpress thrive off of eas ily-replicated trends like resin.2 Dupes are far from a new concept, but their consequences are only growing.

1 “What Is Resin?” TerraCast Products, May 24, 2019.

2 Anthony Andranik Moumjian, “How Long Has Amazon Been Stealing from Its Third-Party Sell ers?” Medium, June 20, 2020.

Not only are stolen ideas harmful to the intent of independent designers and artists, but they take capital away from their original creators. While this is ob jectively wrong, it’s difficult for smaller

companies to combat Shein or other dominating corporations. At their core, inexpensive replicas are inexpensive for a reason: unfair labor is behind it. Fast fashion is a large contributor to this phenomena, but it reaches into all mass-produced products, including art supplies. The more that is consumed,

The rise of resin pertains to our current culture of movement, one where in spiration and directions of art are constantly changing.

the more exploitation that can occur. It’s true that a single purchase won’t change this reality, but it’s still import ant to note how small activities are not always net-zero, and to be an informed consumer—especially when it comes to consuming trends that constantly shift and fall out of the limelight.

In the United States, many trends, such as resin, are propelled by capitalist prac tices and the incessant desire for more. These practices most notably disregard the environment, which also puts some responsibility on us to make ethical choices about our products. Systemic changes won’t be implemented in this way, but self-knowledge on what we’re picking up off the shelf is a helpful start. Resin, for example, can be created by hand, and natural resins, such as EcoP oxy, help to minimize harmful chemicals used in synthetic resin.3 While ethical choices are critical, it’s equally import ant to ground ourselves with the knowl edge that none of us are individually re sponsible for the climate crisis.

On the whole, large companies and in stitutions that mimic trend cycles are the most problematic. Independent suppliers tend to be more expensive than generic brands, but that’s often the only option for many people. Be fore this destructive cycle of mass production and consumption can be tackled, wealth inequality will have to be, too—and that’s bigger than any one individual.

Based on the 20-year cycle of a typical trend and its rapid turnover, it’s unlike ly that resin will stay on the scene for many more years to come. However, there’s pertinence in the present love for the art. If a trend is indulged in con sciously, there’s no harm or foul. Trends exist for a reason, after all: they’re a fun way to connect with a period of time, or even just your peers. For young er generations, trends act as markers for development through adolescence and teendom, which are stages made better by expression and change.

If something “trendy” speaks to you, don’t worry about whether or not it will go out of style. With any purchase, it’s good to understand the potential social and environmental costs, but at the end of the day, you deserve to en joy it. My pink resin ring became the staple of my summer and the fall of 2021, and it moves into winter with me; I’ll always remember that trend of my youth. For now, it will stay. ■

Resins,” EcoPoxy.

fAShion'S new bASicS

HOW THE SUBVERSIVE BASICS TREND IS OFFERING A NEW RUGGED PERSPECTIVE FOR SIMPLE OUTFITS

Written by Manon Bushong, Fashion Editor

Photographed by Jessica Tenenbaum, Contributing Photographer

Modeled by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer

Eachyear, layering persists as one of the most dominant fashion themes for the winter. At its core, fashionable layering is a method of preserving heat in cold temperatures without sacrificing a sense of personal style. Essentially, layering is a hybrid of fashion and functionality. However, when we subtract the functionality aspect, it creates a riveting and unique effect, especially when an outfit goes over the top with pieces made of varying fabrics and colors. We can see this innovative take on layering within “subversive basics,” a new viral trend that incorporates a dystopian and avantgarde aura to ready-to-wear fashion.

Subversive basics is a term coined by Agus Ponzoni, a once WGSN trend forecaster who now works freelance with a solid TikTok platform.1 It en compasses a new way of wearing ba sics, one where the pieces are manip ulated to be rugged and distressed.2 This trend can include anything from long sleeve tops with holes and un even necklines, to layering several dis tressed stringy garments. Subversive basics often come in neutral colors to create a sort of dystopian feel, and many choose to layer a dark colorless pallet of different pieces to emphasize this earthy and edgy feel.

Rick Owens is one designer who is helping define the subversive basics movement, as his pieces embody an extremely post-apocalyptic feel with an emphasis on asymmetry and cut outs. His Spring 2022 ready to wear collection was full of distressed sweat ers, uneven silhouettes and borderline crafty accessories.3 Subversive basic pieces frequently distance themselves from their original function for the sake of fashion, and Rick Owens’ collection pushed this idea heavily. Models were

1 Sophie Lee, “The Subversive Basics Trend is About Rebellion,” L’Officiel, 2021.

2 Alex Wedel, “Are ‘Subversive Basics’ the Key to Spicing up your Summer Style?” GQ, 2021.

3 Sarah Mower, “Rick Owens Spring 2022 Ready to Wear,” Vogue Runway, 2021.

seen in gloves with massive holes so that their hands were exposed while the fingers of the gloves were empty. There was also no shortage of shoes with the silhouette of a high boot, showcasing minimal fabric other than the nine straps that started at the toe and traveled up past the models’ knees.4 This reverse utilitarian mindset made for a memorable collection of unique fashion concepts that will sure ly trickle down into more affordable fashion spheres.

Mildly edgy fashion with an early 2000s influence is undoubtedly hav ing a moment, which has given way to the acceptance of subversive basics. However, subversive basics’ popularity is also fueled by the inclusive nature of the trend. These pieces are not des ignated for any particular body type, nor do they discriminate against any economic budget. While we can see many high-end designers embracing this edgy new fashion concept, it is an entirely achievable look to participate in with some old clothes and a pair of scissors. To create your own chic piece, cut holes in the bottom and feet of an old pair of tights and wear them like a shirt. Continue distressing it to the extent you would like toachieve your dream subversive basics top. This grunge style with an early 2000s feel will keep you feeling cool all winter.

Societal views significantly carve the way we choose to dress, and the sub versive basics trend is no exception to this phenomenon. Following a year and a half of a pandemic-influenced lifestyle, many have been eager to maximize fashion as a tool of self-ex pression. With this shift, we are seeing basics—a word that alluded to jeans and a simple white top for years— take a new form. While it is certainly a trend at the moment, it also has the potential to permanently influence ca sual clothing culture. ■

4 Ibid.

Directed by Corbin Woessner, Fashion Director

Assisted by Ella Cunz, Fashion Staff, and Sydney Davis, Fashion Team Contributor

Photographed by Audrey O'Neill, Photography Director

Modeled by Sydney Collins Makeup by Riley August, Makeup Director

Soviet RuSSiAn coRe

Soviet RuSSiAn coRe

WHEN THE GLAMORIZATION OF AESTHETICS GOES TOO FAR

#russianbimbo,

#russiancore, #svetlanacore, #wintercore, #badbubushkawinter:

The hashtags of this latest Tik Tok “aesthetic” accompany montag es of luxurious fur coats, coordinated boots, falling snow and icy blonde locks underneath furry hats, all set to ‘90s Russian technopop. Think Par is Hilton on a trip to Aspen. However, this aesthetic has found its way into a familiar TikTok topic: cultural appropri ation. The exploration of this aesthetic reveals two important questions: does #russiancore appropriate Russian cul ture, and how does this aesthetic de pict, or fail to address, the reality of Soviet Russia?

Viewers are severely divided on this issue. Some of these videos feature comments criticizing these videos, asserting that their “culture is not an aesthetic.” On the contrary, other com menters voice their appreciation for how this aesthetic celebrates their culture. The divisions continue: some comments identify the hardships asso ciated with the Soviet Union and how the arbitrary use of the USSR symbol in this aesthetic can be harmful. Others chastise users for being too sensitive, noting that this aesthetic isn’t inher ently Russian. Despite these divisions, TikTok users all seem to agree on one point: the romanticization of the Sovi et Union (USSR) is unacceptable.

One object popular in #russiancore is the ushanka, a traditional Russian fur hat. Introduced by Admiral Alexander Kolchak in Russia’s 1918 civil war, the caps became popular as they were in corporated into the uniforms of Sovi

et police and worn by Soviet leaders.1 Additionally, the fur coats worn by Russian women, called shubas, have become an iconic part of Russian fash ion, keeping Russian women warm while also symbolizing wealth.2 De spite the often harmless intentions of users working these traditional items into #russiancore, labelling the fash ion looks containing these traditional items as #russianbimbo, #svetlanacore or #babushkawinter becomes an in sensitive overgeneralization and mis use of both Russian fashion and cul ture. This misuse boils down thousands of years of tumultuous history and rich culture into a collection of hashtags and 15-second videos destined for mindless consumption by others.3

Moreover, some users believe the items and styles used in these videos are harmfully miscategorized. As one user points out, many of the models featured in these videos aren’t Rus sian, like Kendall Jenner appearing in a #russiancore video.4 Similarly, users point out that the music used in these videos isn’t necessarily Russian either.5

Users find further fault with the aes thetic in that its style is broader than Russia alone, more accurately resem bling 2000s Slavic winter style.6

A deeper issue than classification of style, however, is the way these aes thetics fail to address the pain and oppression of Soviet Russia and the

¹ Bridge to Moscow, “Ushanka (winter hat),” Bridge to Moscow, accessed Nov. 2021.

² Tom Barton, “Of Russian origin: Shuba,” Russia pedia, accessed Nov. 2021.

³ Nikolay Shevchenko, “How OLD is Russia?” Russia Beyond, Aug. 3, 2021.

⁴ felida_, TikTok, Jul. 7, 2021.

⁵ russianbabooshka, TikTok, Oct. 17, 2021.

⁶ felida_, TikTok, Jul. 7, 2021.

DECEMBER 2021 Written by Laine Bottemiller, Contributing Writer

subsequent economic struggles in post-Soviet countries. User @russian babooshka criticizes the romanticiza tion of communism in a video on her balcony in Moscow, captioned “such #russiancorecommunism vibes.” In her comments, @russianbabooshka ex plains her video is a satire of people who turn the suffering in the commu nist Soviet Russia into an aesthetic.7

Ultimately, the romanticization of the USSR’s communism blatantly ignores the regime’s undeniable oppression. In an effort to understand what life tru ly looked like for citizens of the Soviet Union, I interviewed Sasha Kusnetzov, the principal of my middle school.

Kusnetzov and his wife migrated to the United States from the Soviet Union in 1992, hoping to raise their family in a country free of the discrimination he faced as a Russian Jew.8 Kusnetzov ex plained the intense control the govern ment maintained over media access, explaining the lack of privately-owned cable and the banning of “controver sial” books. Kusnetzov recalls passing around coveted home-printed copies of books like “The Gulag Archipelago,” which describes life in Soviet prison camps.9 Additionally, he explained the paranoia and caution with which peo ple discussed politics, detailing the constant need to check over shoulders for fear of the wrong people eaves dropping. Finally, when Kusnetzov re counted his process of migrating to the United States, he noted that the Soviet Union denied some citizens specifically, those working in govern ment or science—the ability to migrate for “knowing too much.”

At the core, Kusnetzov shared, “Po litburo was censoring printed media, tv, theaters, and controlling what was taught in school to maintain commu nist party power.”

Under the Soviet Union, the produc tion of goods was dictated by bu reaucratic desires rather than citizen needs. Consumers either had to wait for certain products in lines of up to 43,000 people or obtain products off of the black market. For example, to purchase a car folks had to be on waiting lists of seven to eight years or attempt to purchase one illegal

⁷ russianbabooshka, TikTok, Oct. 17, 2021.

⁸ Interview with Sasha Kusnetzov, conducted over the phone, Nov. 17, 3:07 p.m. 2021.

⁹ Solženicyn Aleksandr and H. T. Willetts, “The Gulag Archipelago,” New York: Harper & Row, 1978.

ly.10 After the Soviet Union’s collapse in 1991, Russia dramatically moved from state controlled assets—an essential feature of the communist regime of the USSR—to a market

ter publishing content that exposed the government’s corruption, gaining political support for his presidential campaign and encouraging citizens to vote against Putin and United Russia.14

deSPite the APPeAl #RuSSiAncoRe SeemS to embody, the glAmoRizAtion of RuSSiA

AS An AeSthetic SideStePS A much dARKeR ReAlity—one thAt omitS the ReAl exPeRienceS of the Soviet union And modeRn dAy RuSSiA.

economy. This shock treatment of the economy resulted in detrimental hyperinflation, leading to the deci mation of savings, economic reces sion and decreased gross domestic product.11 Russia’s movement to pri vatization was marked by the rise of oligarchs, inequality, poverty, cor ruption and unemployment.12

Today, Vladimir Putin, the current president of Russia, and his par ty, United Russia, have increasing ly shaped the political climate of the country to stifle any opposition. Through the use of income investiga tion via tax codes, police harassment, arrest and assassination, the Putin ad ministration effectively curbs oppo sition.13 This is clearly exemplified by the case of Alexei Navalny. Navalny is a Russian politician that faced jail time and an attempted poisoning af

10 Yekaterina Sinelschikova, “How did the Soviet economy work and why did it fail?” Russia Be yond, Jul. 8, 2019.

11 Patrick H. O’Neil, Karl J. Fields, and Donald Share, “Cases and concepts in comparative poli tics,” W.W. Norton & Company, Inc, 2020.

12 Camryn Anthony, “Poverty in the former Soviet Union steadily declines,” The Borgen Project, Sept. 26, 2020.

13 Patrick H. O’Neil, Karl J. Fields, and Donald Share, “Cases and concepts in comparative poli tics,” W.W. Norton & Company, Inc, 2020.

Further, freedom of speech has been severely limited in Russia through state ownership of most television stations and recent laws allowing authorities to block internet access.15 Equally con cerning, severe limits on freedom of expression have been instituted in the country, and other laws have discrim inated against the LGBTQ+ communi ty by banning same-sex couples from adopting children.16

Despite the appeal #russiancore seems to embody, the glamorization of Russia as an aesthetic sidesteps a much darker reality—one that omits the real experiences of the Soviet Union and modern day Russia. Appre ciating the beauty in Russia’s fashion and culture is of value, but when Tik Tok trends take it too far it misses the deeper history and implications of a time and place. Let our next trend be mindful of the cultures and histories that inspire it, so that we can we can morally celebrate people without dis missing their experience.

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14 “Alexei Navalny: Russia’s Jailed Vociferous Putin Critic.” BBC News, Oct. 8, 2021.

15 “World Report 2020: Rights Trends in Russia,” Humans Rights Watch, Jan. 14, 2020.

16 Ibid.

Glimmer and Glow

LET SOME SPARKLE INTO YOUR ROUTINE THIS WINTER

Written and modeled by Shannon McManus, Photographed by Seth DeGier,

Contributing Makeup Artist

The Halo Eye

Thedays are getting shorter, and it can be increasingly more difficult to find the time to focus on your makeup. However, revamping your makeup looks can be a great way to brighten your days during the dark winter months.

As we move away from the deeper hues of fall colors, the soft, shimmery look of snow can inspire beautiful, icy looks. Iridescent makeup has recently risen in popularity, and brands like Su pershock eyeshadow from ColourPop have created light, shimmery palettes with multiple colors to choose from!

THE HALO EYE

The halo eye is a perfect way to show off some shine. This technique puts a spotlight on the center of the eye, with a darker color on the sides of the lid. To create the iridescent look, first choose pastel colors such as light blue and pink to put on the corners of the lid, leaving space in the middle to add some sparkle. Use concealer in the middle of the lid to create a strong base, which will make the iridescent glow pop more than if it were applied to a natural base. For the middle of the lid, choose a pearlescent eyeshadow that shines. Duochrome products, or those that appear to be two different colors depending on the light, will also

The Glossy Eye The Holographic Eye

ing this a perfect look to try during the icy months.

THE GLOSSY EYE

The glossy eye is versatile—you can use a variety of colors to create many different looks. Even wearing the gloss on its own can look beautiful, as it adds a shine to your eyes. This look is icon ic and posh—and creating it is easier than it may seem!

First, prep your lids with a primer; this will ensure that your makeup lasts lon ger, especially since you may be using non-traditional eye products. To show off the gloss without distracting too much from the shine, create a soft look, with a light base color applied to the whole lid, and a darker neutral on the outside of the lid for slight definition. After applying your shadow, apply a lip gloss balm that is safe for your eyes. For the best results, opt for a gloss that isn’t sticky when applied. To com plete this icy look, apply your favorite gloss to your lips for added shine.

THE HOLOGRAPHIC EYE

For those that love an ever-changing look, holographic or glitter eyeshadow is the perfect vibe for winter.

Holographic looks contain particles that show rainbows when the light shifts and can range in multiple colors. When attempting this look, it is import ant to find holographic products that are safe for your eyes. Companies like NYX, Milani and Stila have come out with eye shadows specifically for this purpose. When creating a holographic look, the shadow itself is a creative ele ment and can be applied in a variety of ways to spice up your routine.

Applying the product to the full lid will give you a maximum rainbow look— use your finger to apply the shadow directly to your lid to help it last longer and pop more. To create a unique look, try applying the holographic glitter as an eye-liner. Companies like NYX and Pretty Vulgar have released strictly ho lographic liners; however, you can do it yourself by applying tacky eyeshadow primer with a brush and placing the glitter on top.

Whether you’re hoping to shine at your holiday party, or simply add some sparkle to your daily routine, incorpo rating some bling to your makeup rou tine can brighten your days during the dark winter months.

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Rivals and rhinestones:

A look back on women's figure skating's golden age

AMERICAN FIGURE SKATING'S INFLUENCE ON THE '90S

Written by Rachel Hale, Culture Editor

Graphic by Alexa Kantor, Staff Graphic Artist

In1991, Nirvana released “Nevermind,” Operation Desert Storm was launched in Iraq and the Soviet Union dissolved. But for fans of figure skating, all eyes were on the 1991 World Championships in Munich, Germany, where Kristi Yamaguchi, Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan pulled off a sweep of the podium in the ladies event, marking the beginning of an era of American dominance in women’s figure skating. The decade that followed saw the rise of America’s most decorated skater, a change in the Olympic system and some of the sport’s most intense rivalries to grace the ice.

The same season as the World Cham pionship sweep, the U.S. ladies’ compe tition scene intensified between Hard ing, Yamaguchi and Kerrigan. Harding made waves with her athletic skating style and bold personality when she became the first American woman to land a triple axel at the U.S. Champion ships in 1991, winning the competition. Often compared, Kerrigan’s skating style couldn’t have been more differ ent than Harding’s, with her long lines bringing her to bronze at the ‘91 World Championships. Yamaguchi, who had already found great success as a pairs skater, made headlines when she won gold at 20 years old in the 1992 Albert ville Olympic Games, the last Winter Games to be held in the same year as the Summer Games before they alter nated every two years.

Soon to follow were the 1994 Lilleham mer games, marked by what was in disputably skating’s biggest scandal. On Jan. 6, 1994, Kerrigan was attacked

after practice the day before the U.S. National Championships and Olympic qualifiers in what became known as “the whack heard around the world.”

Using a metal baton to strike Kerrig an’s jumping leg, the hitman was soon identified as Shane Stant who was contracted by Harding’s ex-husband Jeff Gillooly and bodyguard, Shawn Eckhardt. Harding claimed she didn’t know anything about the attack at the time and was cleared to compete at the Olympics,1 and Kerrigan, who worked to make a quick recovery, was also granted a spot.

By the time the skaters arrived in the Olympic village, the rivalry had made for the perfect tabloid scandal. Kerri gan stirred the press when she wore the same white lace dress she was at tacked in to the first practice ice she shared with Harding since the incident, and the actual night of the free skate proved more eventful when Harding abruptly stopped performing to fix a broken shoelace. After pleading for a re-skate, Harding came in eighth place. Kerrigan, on the other hand, narrowly missed gold to Ukraine’s 16-year-old Oksana Baiul in a controversial win that ruffled feathers among fans and T.V. producers alike. Less than a month lat er, Harding received three years of pro bation and a $160,000 fine after pros ecutors found her guilty of “conspiracy to hinder prosecution” following the attack on Kerrigan. Her 1994 National Championships title was revoked, and she was given a lifetime ban from the

1 Eudie Pak, “Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan: A Complete Timeline of Kerrigan’s Attack and Aftermath,” Biography.com (A&E Networks Tele vision, October 22, 2021).

U.S. Figure Skating Association.2 The scandal has become a major cultur al reference and turned into films like 1994’s “Tonya and Nancy Kerrigan: The Inside Story,” ESPN’s 2014 “30 for 30: The Price Of Gold” and most recently, 2017’s critically acclaimed “I, Tonya.”

Kerrigan and Harding may have been the biggest features on prime-time television, but it was the earnest Mi chelle Kwan that stole skating’s heart. Kwan passed the gold test to become a senior-level figure skater at just 12 years old in 1992, against the well wishes of her coach. By 1994, she had won the World Junior Championships and made two top-10 finishes at the U.S. nationals, including second in 1994. With five World Championship wins and nine national titles under her belt, Kwan is the most decorated U.S. skater and largely regarded as America’s most popular female fig ure skater, too. However, Kwan found her match in Tara Lipinski, the spit fire young skater from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania who burst on the scene in 1996 with a bronze medal finish at nationals, soon to be followed by her national win in 1997. The 1998 Naga no Olympics saw an upset win from Lapinski, who became the youngest female skater to win Olympic gold at just 15 years of age. “Skating to the soundtrack of “Little Women with a technically packed program, includ ing her signature triple loop/triple loop combination.

There were other moments of cultural force that impacted women’s skating along the way— compulsory figures 2 Ibid.

were replaced in the mid-’90s with moves in the field to test skating pro ficiency, and plans were later made for the switch from the 6.0 judging system to the ISU judging system that would occur in 2004. In 1995, Nicole Bobek’s high-leg spiral and energetic program set to the music of “Doctor Zhivago” ousted favored Kwan of a win. In the Vogue shoot that followed, 17-year-old Bobek responded to claims about her wild-child behaviors and tendency to smoke a joint after practice sessions, telling Vogue, “I’m a teenager, that’s what we do.”3 Then there was 1982 World Champion Elaine Zayak’s come back after a nearly 10-year hiatus, plac ing fourth at the 1994 U.S. Champion ships and earning an alternate spot for the Lillehammer games.

But despite its glamour, a look back at the ‘90s also speaks to the lack of awareness surrounding mental health, LGBTQ+ issues and sexual assault. At the time of the scandal, Kerrigan said she inadvertently dropped 15 pounds due to the constant pressure of cam eras and media coverage,4 and during Zayak’s comeback, the skater faced scrutiny for her weight gain in retire ment.5 Furthermore, while stars like Eric Radford, Brian Boitano, Brian Orser, Jeff Buttle and Johnny Weir all came out as gay after their time in the spotlight, it wasn’t until 2018’s Pyeong chang that Adam Rippon became the

3 Elizabeth Royte, “ NICOLE BOBEK,” Mary Ellen Mark (Vogue, November 1995).

4 Taylor Maple, “Nancy Kerrigan Talks Eating Dis order She Developed after 1994 Attack: ‘I Didn’t Realize What I Was Doing’,” ABC News (ABC News Network, 2017).

5 Randy Harvey, “Figure Skating : Zayak Boldly Moves Back into Prominence,” Los Angeles Times (Los Angeles Times, April 7, 1994).

first skater to compete at the games while out.6 Moreover, Richard Cal laghan, coach of top skaters like Lip inski and men’s skater Todd Eldredge, was first accused of sexual assault in 1999, but it took nearly 20 years for U.S. Figure Skating to investigate into his actions—when they did, he was banned from the sport.7

Still, the ‘90s are generally regarded as skating’s golden age because of the massive international success and fol lowing skating lesson enrollment that media attention and Campbell’s soup ads brought to the sport. The 1994 ladies short program was the high est-rated Winter Olympics event in his tory, and the USFSA president said that enrollment in basic skating courses tri pled in the year that followed, compar ing the sport’s boom to that Mary Lou Retton set off in gymnastics.8 But in the time since figure skating has experi enced a serious decline: CNN reported that viewership of national champion ships dropped from 6.8 million viewers in 1998 to 4.5 million in 2018.9 Out of the 12 medals won between 1992 and 2002 in women’s Olympic figure skat ing, U.S. women won nine, or 75% of the podium, but it’s been since Sarah Hughes’s 2002 win that an American woman has won gold. Without medal

6 Nick McCarvel, “‘Feeling Free,’ Olympic Cham pion Brian Boitano Opens up on Coming Out,” (Team USA, June 26, 2020).

7 Brian Epstein et al., “‘A Deliberate Cover-up’?: US Figure Skating Reckoning with Sexual Abuse Allegations against Olympic Coach,” ABC News (ABC News Network, March 12, 2018).

8 Johnette Howard, “Queen for a Day - Sports Illustrated Vault,” SI.com (Sports Illustrated Vault | SI.com, February 20, 1995).

9 Rebecca Jennings, “Figure Skating Is on Thin Ice. Here’s How to Fix It.,” Vox (Vox, February 18, 2021).

winners and scandals, the sport expe rienced a natural decrease in media coverage, impacting enrollment in les sons, and in 2008, the financial crisis made an expensive sport like skating unattainable for most Americans.

A 1995 Sports Illustrated article the day after Bobek’s win posed a rather prognosticate question: “How long be fore skating is like gymnastics, a sport overrun by kiddie stars with tiny bod ies?”10 30 years after the 1-2-3 finish of Yamaguchi, Harding and Kerrigan, Russia’s Anna Shcherbakova, Yeliza veta Tuktamysheva and Aleksandra Trusova became the second trio to sweep the World Championship podi um in the modern era. The difference? None of the 2021 trio members were older than 17. Teenage Russian skat ers, trained in intense state-sponsored training academies and equipped with quadruple jumps, have come to dom inate the sport, putting a ceiling on how far the merits of skating skills can bring an athlete in competition.

It’s unlikely that skating will ever re turn to the height it experienced in the days of Bobek’s spiral sequences and Kwan’s sheer consistency. Today’s athletes might bring triple axels to the table, but it was those of the ‘90s that made skaters household names with their artistry and charisma. Credited as the inspiration for millions of girls who picked up a pair of skates to start their journey, their legacies will live on forev er in the generation of strong women they’ve inspired. ■

10 Johnette Howard, “Queen for a Day - Sports Illustrated Vault,” SI.com (Sports Illustrated Vault | SI.com, February 20, 1995)

HOW THIS POPULAR TROPE GLOSSES OVER CHARACTERS' TOXIC AND PROBLEMATIC ACTIONS

Written by Kora Quinn, Arts Editor

Graphic by Sammy Meyerson, Contributing Graphic Artist

Ifyou ever find yourself on the booklovers side of TikTok, you’ll quickly notice that you can’t go more than a few videos without coming across the “enemies to lovers” trope. It’s everywhere, and readers of all genres— especially romance and fantasy—are in love with it.

The enemies to lovers trope occurs when two characters start a story as enemies, but as the book or series pro gresses, they begin to fall in love. Usually culminating in a romantic relationship, these lovers have to overcome their differences and their misconceptions about each other to find a deeper con nection, teaching characters and read ers alike that it’s never okay to judge a person too quickly or base too much of your opinion on first impressions.

Being “enemies” can mean many things, from childhood rivals to political foes, or possibly even being on oppos ing sides of a war. Sometimes, these en emies are drawn to each other in ways they can’t explain. Or, they’re forced to spend a lot of time together, and in the process, they learn the little things that make each other tick. Regardless, these characters falling in love always offers a fresh start to their relationship: It sig nals a pause, rewind, starting over and forgetting of past animosities.

And they do forget their animosities. Literally. After the main characters fall in love, it’s as if their history of being at each other’s throats is erased. Sud denly, all the problematic and toxic things they have done to each other are glossed over, lost to endless pages of passion and spice.

My first encounter with this trope and its concerning portrayal of love was the “Shatter Me” series by Tahereh Mafi, first published in November of 2011.

At the time I read it, I was in middle school and the series was still a trilogy with two novellas. Since then, Mafi has picked the series back up and added three books and three novellas.1

Unfortunately, Juliette doesn’t have much of a choice. She is imprisoned by Warner, during which she is forced to tortue a soldier and a child. While this seems like the making of a twisted and disgusting villain, it is actually the bud of an enemies-to-lovers romance. Lat er in the initial trilogy, Warner reveals that it was all a simulation; Juliette never actually hurt anyone, and he was only pretending to force her into these actions so The Reestablishment would believe he was on their side.

The “Shatter Me” series is a young adult dystopian in which people have gained mysterious powers and North America has been taken over by an oppressive government known as The Reestablish ment. Throughout the first three books, protagonist Juliette Ferrars navigates life with the uncontrollable power of le thal touch. After spending almost a year in an asylum for this, Aaron Warner, the son of The Reestablishment’s Supreme Commander, makes a deal with Juliette. He will release her from the asylum so long as she agrees to help him. And by “help,” he means torturing The Rees tablishment’s prisoners.

1 Emily Dilworth, “Tahereh Mafi Announces and Additional Three Books to Bestselling ‘Shatter Me’ Series,” Red Inc., Oct. 25, 2017.

After this revelation, the character’s re lationship blossoms into that of a power couple that takes on the government to gether, and Warner’s actions are never readdressed. Even at 13, this rubbed me the wrong way. Regardless of whether or not Warner’s actions were “fake,” Ju liette believed they were real at the mo ment it happened. Realistically, entering a relationship with someone who forced you through these traumatizing situ ations is extremely toxic. But because they “weren’t real,” the past is painted over—covered up—yet readers can easi ly see through to the reality underneath.

Despite my initial encounter with the trope, I have since come across ene mies-to-lovers books that, within the context of the story and the fantasy setting, make more sense. In the “Sands of Arawiya” duology by Hafsah Faizal, for example, the main characters in clude Nasir, a prince who has become the world’s most deadly assassin at the hands of his possessed father, and Zaf ira, a village girl with strong morals and emerging magic in a magicless world.

to Lovers

In book one, Zafira despises Nasir. She is aware of his reputation, and after an awful first encounter, wants nothing to do with him. But over time, she slowly grows to understand him and the trau ma caused by the evil that has infested his father, and the two, plus their “zum ra” of friends, take on the villain to save the world.

Similar to the “Shatter Me” books, once Zafira and Nasir fall in love, the past is largely forgotten. The story begins to overlook the fact that the prince mur dered countless innocent people, even if he was just following his father’s or ders. Unlike in the last example, how ever, there were many reasons for Na sir’s decisions, not to mention a lot of emotional baggage. Zafira does face some conflict over her feelings, and the people around her are initially re luctant to accept him. In the end, they find a beautiful and healthy love. But does the world in which these charac ters live, one in which they face life-ordeath situations every day, make Na sir’s actions justifiable? Does it make his past excusable?

Another example of an ene mies-to-lovers romance that could be interpreted in a negative way is Nina and Matthias in the “Six of Crows” duology. Nina is a “Grisha,” or a mag ic-using person, and Matthias is a Gri sha hunter, called Drüskelle.

Due to cultural and religious reasons, the Drüskelle believe that Grisha are in human, and that their “unnatural” gifts are a sin. Throughout the course of the story, readers slowly learn that in the past, Matthias and the rest of the Drüs

kelle kidnapped Nina and were going to transport her to their country for a “trial” that would ultimately end in her execution, simply for being Grisha. But when their ship crashes during a storm, Nina saves Matthias’ life, and the two have to learn to tolerate each other, as well as unlearn their unfounded bias es, to survive until they can make it to civilization. They have some ups and downs, but by the end of the series, they are madly in love.

your romance,” a fact that unfortunate ly might prevent many others from en joying an otherwise fantastic series, no matter how hard the story attempts to redeem Matthias’ past.2

Don’t get me wrong, I still enjoy the en emies to lovers trope, and I understand why it’s so popular within the reading community. There’s a sense of antici pation that comes with a romance that starts not as friends, not as strangers, but as actual enemies. It’s the tension that comes with every interaction, the thrill of characters being confronted with both contempt and attraction, all in one scene. And of course, there’s the cathartic release of all that anticipation and tension once the couple finally gives in to their feelings.3

Although the country the Drüskelle come from is aesthetically and cultur ally based on Scandinavia, the Drüskel le and their beliefs are reminiscent of Nazi Germany. Author Leigh Bardugo, a Jewish woman, has never officially confirmed this assumption, but readers have pointed out the problematic na ture of a romance between oppressor and oppressed within the metaphor anyway. Among the book-community, very few bring up this issue, and it’s often overlooked in reviews. However, as one reader pointed out, “You can’t have your Holocaust metaphor and

But really, is the idea of “enemies” be coming “lovers” okay, morally? In some cases, no. When the trope romanticiz es abuse and toxic relationships, it be comes concerning and wrong—espe cially since the trope is common in the young adult category. Still, when this isn’t the case, and when the story aims to teach empathy and understanding by conveying the process of overcom ing flaws and seeing the good in a person, it is beautiful. These storylines can be sexy and passionate, so long as both readers and authors maintain that border between fiction and reality.

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2 “Six of Crows, Leigh Bardugo,” Reading While Queer, Dec. 5, 2017.

3 Giselle Lopez, “Why We Love ‘Enemies to Lov ers’ Stories,” The Young Folks, Aug. 2021.