T11.12 2021

THE

U s i n g S a l t i n a K o i Po n d !

FISHKEEPER NOVEMBER/DECEMBER ‘21

Vol. 12/No. 06

For the Aquarist: Freshwater & Marine The

Seahorses!

website for the aquarist

fishkeeper

.co.za

Their History, Care and Breeding

Overall impression of the IAPLC 2021!

Asexual reproduction The Lampeyes!

within corals!

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While mandarins are often found in small groups or pairs in the wild, males are intolerant of each other in the confines of an aquarium.

Terrarium Plants 101...pg28

Vol. 13 | No. 03 | May/June

Should I Feed Mice or Rats?

...pg04

Subscribe online at www.ultimateexotics.co.za

2019

The Bamboo Ratsnake care and breeding The Bushmaster (Lachesis) WOMA HUSBANDR Y AND CAPTIVE BREEDING INTRODUCTION TO BLUE TONGUE SKINKS Pg. 08

the #1 reptile and exotic pet website

Ultimate

exotics.co.za

Tarantula Cages

Pg. 38

pi

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Contents

For the Aquarist: Freshwater & Marine

South Africa’s only magazine for marine and freshwater aquarium hobbyists.

November/December

Vol 12 / No 6/ 2021

12

28 YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

features 06 THE LAMPEYES!

Lampeyes belong to the killifish family and are a peaceful group of fish small enough for a nano aquarium. The name Lampeye refers to the horizontal crescent at the top of its eye that seems to “glow” under the aquarium light

12 OVERALL IMPRESSION OF THE IAPLC 2021!

Every year Aqua Design Amano open entries for aquascapers to enter their aquatic creation into the international aquatic plant layout contest. These entries come in from all over the world and are judged based off numerous criteria with a placing being awarded to each and every entry.

20 SEAHORSES!

We all have questions when it comes to fishkeeping so due to popular demand we have decided to start up a new section within the magazine where we do our best to answer the questions that you our readers have.

30

Asexual reproduction is the most common form of reproduction amongst corals. It has the advantage of being fast, which guarantees a more efficient colonisation of the species’ immediate environment.

36 USING SALT IN A KOI POND! Salt is regularly used within freshwater fishkeeping to aid with disease and stress. What are the pro’s and con’s to using it within the koi pond though?

regulars

THEIR HISTORY, CARE AND BREEDING

Seahorses are just fascinating with their cunning resemblance to the animal of which they are named after. Unfortunately they are one of the groupings of fish that are under the greatest pressure mainly due to their illegal harvesting. Breeding efforts within the aquaria can definitely aid these challenging fish in their long term well being.

ASEXUAL REPRODUCTION WITHIN CORALS

04 05 39

From the Editor About the Editor Advertiser’s Index

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Editorial nd just like that we have come to the end of another year. They just seem to be getting faster and faster.

A

Our covid level has come down significantly allowing us to meet up with loved ones, especially for the holiday season which is great for our own well being but let us still practice the basics of covid prevention and not be complacent as the last thing we need and specifically for the hobby is another look down. Glass prices have been increasing on a monthly basis this last year making the cost of getting into the hobby climb overtime.

Unfortunately this year, I have once again witnessed the decline in the amount of people keeping marine aquariums, largely due to the exorbant costs which keep pilling onto the hobbyists due to covids wrath or so we are told. This is quite sad but as our economy hopefully picks up so will the marine hobby.

What has been amazing to see though, is a steady increase yet again in the freshwater fishkeeping hobby. The interest in aquascaping particularly has soared over the last year and this promises a great outlook of the hobby within South Africa.

Over the last few weeks there have been some exciting things occuring here at TheFishkeeper. One in particular is a large add on to our fishroom with an aim to bring some quality locally bred and imported fish to our pet stores.

Lastly I just would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Please stay safe and look after yourselves and your families.

I wish you all a good year a head.

I hope you enjoy this issue! Happy reading, and happy fishkeeping!

The Editor

THE FISHKEEPER Volume 12 | Number 06 November/December 2021 Managing Editor Design Layout Advertisements Subscriptions Sales Matt Needham Proof Reading Liaquat H Sain

Contact the Editor at editor@thefishkeeper.co.za for any inquiries on advertising, sales etc

Disclaimer: The Editor and Publishers of The Fishkeeper do not accept any liability whatsoever with regard to any statement, fact, advertisement or recommendation made in this magazine and do not necessarily agree with the viewpoints expressed by contributors to The Fishkeeper magazine.

© 2021 by The Fishkeeper. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

“a righteous man cares for the needs of his animals,” PROVERBS 12:10 Editor: editor@thefishkeeper.co.za

Subscribe now!

Email us at editor@thefishkeeper. co.za for info on how to subscribe, alternatively you can purchase your subscription off Pocketmags or on TheFishkeeper app which can be found on Google play store and Apple’s equivalent.

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Cover Photo:

Seahorse Pixabay

About the Editor!

Matt Needham was born in Durban, South Africa in 1985. His passion for fish began at a very young age with picking up his first aquarium at the age of 10 as a Christmas present. Around the time he was 16 he had 20 tanks and had started working at his local petshop on weekends, where he was approached to run their fish section.

Once he had finished school he attended the University of Kwa-Zulu Natal where he acquired a degree in Environmental sciences life stream. During this period he had purchased approximately 100 tanks and had begun to breed freshwater Angelfish on a commercial scale, with around 20 pairs spawning. After University he moved to the UK for a couple of seasons to pursue his cricket career and unfortunately shut down his breeding operation where he bred well over 50 different species of fish with great success, with the majority of these being Cichlids. During this period he studied a Diploma in Ichthyology through the Institute of Animal Health Care in the UK. On his arrival back into the country in 2010, he inquired about a potential position at uShaka

Above and Below: The Editor with two different species of Loricariidae found along tributaries of the Rio Negro river, Brazil.

SeaWorld under SAAMBR. He started working there as an intern in January 2011 of which he then received a full time position as an Aquarist in the aquarium from April that year, where he works with various species of marine fish, elasmobranchs, corals and other invertebrate species. During his time at SAAMBR he has been involved with numerous projects ranging from the reproduction of fish at the aquarium and helping ORI with coral work in Sodwana Bay. In 2017 he won an award at the Pan African Association for Zoos and Aquaria conferance for his presentation on the captive spawning of the coral Acropora appressa and linking it to the wild.

In 2013 Matt was invited along as a representative on an Amazon fisheries project called Project Piaba.

The goal of the project was to help the local fisherman improve their methods of capturing wild caught specimens for the aquarium hobby. In doing this it kept them in a self sustainable industry instead of moving over to destructive practices such as forestry and mining.

Matt has well over 20 years of experience in the commercial trade and breeding of ornamental fish and has regularly contributed to The Fishkeeper over the years. He was approached mid way through 2019 with regards to taking over the production of The Fishkeeper. www.thefishkeeper.co.za November/December 2021 the fishkeeper

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Freshwater

The ! s e y e L amp By: Tim Smith

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K

illifishes are a diverse group, but when one thinks of killies our thoughts often turn to the famous annual fishes of tropical seasonal habitats.

However, not all killifishes live annual lifestyles, and particular favourite from among these are the so-called lampeye killifishes, or lampeyes for short.

They are so named for a unique iridescence within their eyes, which can look particularly stunning under natural sunlight.

That isn’t to say their beauty stops there, as these animals carry range of subtle but stunning colours that put them into a class of their own.

Given their shapes and ecologies,

they were thought to be very close relatives to the familiar livebearers, like guppies and mosquito fishes; however, the lampeyes have since been moved to their own families, primarily Procatopodidae but the primitive Pantanodontidae are sometimes designated as lampeyes as well. If we focus on the Procatopodidae, the group is restricted to the African continent, and is widespread here.

They’re much like the livebearers in that they’re great additions to the aquarium, and even if they don’t give birth to live young, they’re still quite easy to breed.

Many species are a good choice to add to a nano aquarium, whilst others add a stunning layer to biotope aquaria.

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Lampeyes, some 70 species in all, can be found across tropical and subtropical Africa in a variety of habitats from streams to rivers and even in the African Rift Lakes themselves. Of all these species, however, only a select few regularly make it into the mainstream trade. Norman’s lampeye, Poropanchax normani, is the “aquarium staple” lampeye, usually seen in fair numbers and a regular addition to nano-type displays. The bluegreen lampeye Procatopus aberrans is seen occasionally, but does not share the popularity of the previous species.

Many of the other species, however, are traded among specialist keepers who have taken a liking to this lovely group, and may be available from breeders’ conventions and auctions. It is definitely Nelize Van Driel worthwhile asking around, since these less-common species are perhaps among the most stunning in the family!

This article is a broad overview of what one can expect with lampeyes in general, especially the most popular species among them. However, always do your homework with unfamiliar species, since there may be nuances to their care not discussed here.

“If you intend to keep lampeyes with other fishes, then those that keep to the middle or bottom of the aquarium are ideal.”

Aquarium Maintenance Oxygen appears to be one of the more critical environmental components for lampeyes. To this end I try to keep them at the lower end of their temperature range, which ensures greater oxygen saturation in the water than would be possible at higher temperatures. In any case, sufficient surface agitation should be present to keep oxygen levels sufficient.

For those species that hail from streams and similar

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Pixabay

Above: A favourite amongst many aquarists, Norman’s Lampeye (Poropanchax normani)

environments, a gentle current may be appreciated but certainly is not necessary. In the best case scenario, you could offer areas with either current or still waters, allowing your animals to move freely between the two. That said, I’ve had my lampeyes spawn equally well in either environment, although I did notice they spend a good amount of time “playing” in a current.

Many lampeye species are found in areas just adjacent to emergent aquatic vegetation, and readily duck into cover when disturbed. Including some sort of plant cover, especially near the surface and edges of your aquarium, can help these fishes to feel at ease and overall live a less stressed life. Lighting needn’t be too harsh for these animals, but you’ll certainly want enough light to highlight their iridescent markings. The plants mentioned above will provide some reprieve from the light, if the fish feel it is necessary.

These fish may jump, particularly if startled. Plant cover and dimmer light may help with this to

some degree, but neither provide the wholesale protection a proper aquarium lid or glass cover can offer.

The lampeyes are generally specialist feeders of aquatic invertebrates, particularly small pelagic crustaceans and insect larvae. Ideally including these in the diet will ensure you’ll get the best health and colours out of your animals, so do try feeding them up with frozen or live bloodworms, mosquito larvae, and Daphnia. Most fish should convert fairly easily to high-quality dry foods as well; some of these insect-based dry foods have proven popular with my fishes. Lampeyes prefer to feed from the surface so try to avoid foods that sink too quickly - if it even has a chance to!

If you intend to keep lampeyes with other fishes, then those that keep to the middle or bottom of the aquarium are ideal. Neither party should bother the other, and keeps all levels of your tank looking dynamic. Keeping in mind that most lampeyes don’t get particularly large, avoid predatory types - especially those that could easily fit their mouths around the relatively www.thefishkeeper.co.za November/December 2021 the fishkeeper

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Breeding As stated, breeding these fishes tends to be quite simple. If maintained well with a good diet revolving around live and frozen foods, most species will spawn regularly. Lulls in breeding activity may be indicative of unfavourable environmental conditions, which when corrected usually see spawning resume with some regularity.

mop. Some species prefer particularly “deep” spawning substrates, like a thick clump of moss or a very large spawning mop. This means that they’re able to distribute eggs throughout, so you’ll need patience and a keen eye if you wish to remove all the eggs from these bigger spawning substrates. Another breeding strategy, called crevice spawning, means that some species will opt to drop eggs between wood and rocks, although sufficiently densely planted areas may suffice.

Many species prefer to spawn in dense vegetation, or an alternative such as a spawning

That said, removing the individual eggs from the spawning substrate isn’t necessary. In most

slender lampeye body.

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cases it is much simpler to transfer the entire spawning mop to the rearing tank, where the eggs can hatch in peace.

However, be sure to have a spare spawning mop on hand to replace that one since your lampeyes may be ready to spawn again fairly soon.

The eggs are usually quite large - some 2mm in diameter in some species and should be quick to spot even from outside the tank. However it is good practice to pull the mop out regularly and inspect for eggs. Don’t worry - the eggs are remarkably hardy as long as they stay wet. They’re even quite tolerant of handling, and so long as your hands are clean (and wet) you can even pick the eggs off the mop with your fingers.

Tim Smith

In many instances there will be eggs that were deposited somewhere outside of the spawning mop. You probably won’t realize this until you see fry swimming around the surface of the aquarium. Some fry might survive like this, especially if the aquarium is mature and the adults are well-fed.

For greater success, though, it is best to remove as many eggs as possible and rear the fry separately.

Surprisingly small fry hatch from these large eggs, and may remain with their yolk sac for a few days.

Tim Smith

Top and Above: Two of the author’s Johnston’s Lampeyes Below: A juvenile Johnston’s Lampeye bred by the author

Tim Smith

Once they start feeding, be sure to have small live foods on hand. Most species start off too small to accept freshly hatched Artemia right away, but smaller food items like infusoria or vinegar eels seem to suit them fine. Within a few days to a week they should be able to move on to baby Artemia and the likes of microworms. Try offering very small frozen foods from when they’re about 10mm, in order to help wean them onto non-living foods.

Well-fed and maintained fry should grow into breeding adults relatively quickly, and should be separated or moved on if you’re worried about explosive population growth or excessive inbreeding. However, once you’ve reached this stage you can be sure that you’ve got it all right, with your lampeyes providing you with a stress-free addition to your breeding projects.

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Planted Tank

Overall impression of the International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest 2021 By: Aqua Design Amano

T

he International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest whose official name is updated as IAPLC from the year 2021, got off to the 21st start for the next 10 years. As it was perfect for its new beginning, there were 2,617 entries, the largest number ever from 84 countries and areas, and works up to the 2,000th place in the world rankings are published in this Contest Book. For IAPLC2021, not only its name but its award bracket has been changed too, and winning works are now works up to the world ranking 100th place. And starting this year, the top 100 winners will receive a top 100 medal with their ranking in addition to the conventional certificate. As a recent tendency, all works ranked 100th place or higher in the world rankings are extremely well-finished, and the competition among their abilities is very close. Among them, the top 27 works from Grand Prix to Honour Prize have outstanding sensibilities and ideas. However, the works from 28th to 100th place are not inferior in terms of their abilities. For that reason, in order to praise their abilities to reach the top 100 in the world ranking, we decided to present them with a commemorative top 100 medal. This top 100 medal will continue from next year onwards. Therefore, we would like all participants to make this medal as one of their goals. In terms of the overall IAPLC2021 evaluation, not only are the top winners’ abilities close, but we strongly felt that the lower-ranked creators also demonstrated their improved skills in their works. Among past entries, there were quite a few works that were difficult to evaluate as planted aquariums. This year, it seems that there are very few of such works. On the other hand, there are quite many works that were technically not so bad, but they gave a little disappointing impression. As examples of such works, lack of novelty due to compositions and planting that are too standard as planted aquariums, imitating past IAPLC prize-winning works and giving a sense of déjà vu, spoiling a natural feeling by intentionally placing artificial objects, destroying a view of the world due to mismatched fish sizes and species, and not being able to focus on an aquascape because walls of the room behind the aquarium is in the picture. Because of the tendency of works like the above, it has been extremely difficult to determine especially the lower world rankings. The decision and presentation systems may need to be considered about the world rankings after this year. In addition, the lineup of judges who perform the world evaluations has been significantly updated since this year. Therefore, please keep a close eye on their evaluation results too. We believe that reflecting back on this year’s IAPLC with works published in this contest book will definitely lead to next year’s results. However, what we would like to tell everyone who is planning to apply next year is that if just following this year’s top prize-winning works, it will be difficult to win the top prizes next year. We look forward to seeing your new ideas.

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Above: Map showing the entries from around the world and their locations.

GRAND PRIZE World Ranking: 0001 Yoyo Prayogi Gender: Male Country: Indonesia Title: Ancient Tree Dimensions: 120 x 50 x 50 Plants: Anubias barteri var. nana “Petite” Buchephalandra sp.

Cryptocoryne wendtii brown Tonina fluviatilis Glossostigma elatinoides Heteranthera zosterifolia Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Rotala nanjean Rotala sp. “Gia Lai” Vesicularia montagnei Fish and Inverts: Hyphessobrycon amandae

This aquascape reminiscent of a submerged tropical forest won the Grand Prix of IAPLC2021 making a fresh start. Although works with a submerged forest motif are not so unusual every year, a huge tree is placed in the center of this work, and its stunning presence differentiates the work from similar works. By elaborating only the submerged buttress roots to fullwidth of the aquarium tank, it makes us wonder how big the tree could be although we wouldn’t be able to see the whole tree, and it has even led to the expression of a realistic underwater feeling. In addition, using only white cosmetic sand around the buttress roots is effective, and the strength of the

buttress roots supporting the huge tree by widely spreading the roots is well-expressed although the roots cannot be stretched out deeply in the ground. The presence of the huge tree in the center stands out because of the expression of the buttress roots and relatively simple trees around the buttress roots.

The competition among the top winners’ abilities was very close this year again, but the boldness of those expressions was impressive as an aquascape, and as a result, it was highly evaluated by many of the judges. The creator’s skills for the aquatic plant planting and maintenance are high, and the aquascape is nicely finished and worthy of winning the Grand Prix.

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GOLD PRIZE World Ranking: 0002 Minh Toan Nguyen Gender: Male Country: Vietnam Title: Storming Dimensions: 120 x 50 x 50 Plants: Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Hemianthus callitrichoides “Cuba” Hemianthus micranthemoides Rotala rotundifolia “Green” Rotala rotundifolia “Red” Hottonia palustris Cabomba caroliniana Taxiphyllum alternans Fissidens splachnobryoides Fissidens sp. fontanus Taxiphyllum barbieri

Vesicularia ferriei Taxiphyllum sp. “Flame” Riccardia sp. “Chamedryfolia” Elatine Hexandra Eleocharis acicularis Marsilea hirsuta Echinodorus Tenellus Eriocaulon sp. “Vietnam” Anubias barteri var. nana “Petite” Anubias barteri var. nana “Pinto” Anubias barteri var. glabra “Minina” Bolbitis heudelotii Fish and Inverts: Nematobrycon palmeri Hyphessobrycon amandae This year’s Gold Prize went to an aquascape reminiscent of a

submerged forest, strangely the same as the Grand Prix aquascape.

For this work, the expression that looks like roots of a huge fallen tree created by arranging pieces of driftwood is impressive and makes the aquascape look powerful. In general, an overall impression of aquascapes with many pieces of driftwood like this work, tends to be dark because there are shadows under the driftwood pieces. However, planting a lot of Hemianthus family in bright green not just moss in this aquascape helps avoid the impression getting too dark. It can be said that this aquascape is well-finished in terms of composition and planting.

SILVER PRIZE 14 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

World Ranking: 0003 CHAN HEE BOON Gender: Male Country: Malaysia Title: Imagine Dimensions: 120 x 60 x 50 Plants: Hemianthus callitrichoides “Cuba” Eleocharis sp.

Cryptocoryne parva Bucephalandra sp.

Anubias barteri var. nana Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Mini Fissidens Riccardia graeffei Vesicularia dubyana

Hemianthus micranthemoides Rotala (Red) Rotala (green) Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata.

Fish and inverts: Hemigrammus bleheri Otocinclus affinis Crossocheilus oblongus Caridina multidentata The first Silver Prize went to an aquascape with impressive driftwood pieces sticking out greatly.

Works with similar compositions are often created by gluing stones.

But for this work, the creator took advantage of the distinctive texture of the driftwood and made the expression somewhat in between stones and driftwood. In general, compositions that have layout materials sticking out greatly and overhanging tend to give a heavy impression. However, by creating good spaces between the driftwood pieces, the impression of this work is not too heavy while giving a powerful look. The aquatic plants planted behind the driftwood and on the driftwood help soften the overall impression too.

SILVER PRIZE World Ranking: 0004 Eakthanat Isarathikul Gender: Male Country: Thailand Title: Revolve Plus Dimensions: 120 x 60 x 50 Plants: Riccardia chamedryfolia “Coral Moss” Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Hemianthus callitrichoides “Cuba” Bucephalandra sp. Godzilla Rotala mexicana Bucephalandra moss Hygrophila pinnatifida Rotala sp. shimoga

Hydrocotyle tripartita Bolbitis Heudelotii Anubias var. nana “Petite” Taxiphyllum sp. “Flame Moss” Juncus repens Eleocharis acicularis Limnophila sp. “Mini” Limnophila aromatica Vesicularia montagnei Pogostemon erectus Fish and inverts: Rainbow Fish (Short Body) The second Silver Prize went to an aquascape whose composition drawn by driftwood reminds us of swirls and spirals. Works with

similar compositions tend to give an artificial impression, but the creator was able to execute the aquascape with a natural impression successfully.

The reason is that the assumed circle is oval shaped instead of a perfect circle, and the center of the circle is shifted to the left. In addition, it’s only a small part, but how a small branch is sticking out in a way that it divides the central space has led to the expression of a sense of perspective and a natural feeling. The dynamic composition and detailed expression made the aquascape attractive.

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BRONZE PRIZE World Ranking: 0005 Matthew Israel Manes Gender: Male Country: Philippines Title: Synergy Dimensions: 120 x 45 x 45 Plants: Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Hemianthus callitrichoides Schismatoglottis prietoi Glossostigma elatinoides Bucephalandra sp. “Mini Phantom” Bucephalandra sp.

Bucephalandra sp. “Angel Tears” Marsilea crenata Vesicularia montagnei

Riccardia chamedryfolia Hydrocotyle tripartita mini Rotala rotundifolia ”Colorata” Hemianthus micranthemoides Ludwigia arcuata Fish and Inverts: Hemigrammus bleheri var.

Otocinclus sp.

Neocaridina sp.

Nalentina natalensis The first Bronze Prize went to an aquascape with impressive exposed layered rock surfaces. By arranging materials to make them look like a valley with rock cliffs rising

to the left and right, creating the central space and placing stones of the same shape with different sizes, a sense of perspective is well-expressed. In the case of a geological expression just like this aquascape, it is hard to combine aquatic plants. However, by nicely planting Bucephalandra on the rock cliffs, it was carefully crafted not to give just an impression of the rock cliffs. The red stem plants that can be seen a little in the central space, are questionable in terms of maintaining the landscape, but it is effectively used as an expression of a distant view.

BRONZE PRIZE World Ranking: 0006 Josh Sim Gender: Male Country: Malaysia Title: Embrace Dimensions: 150 x 60 x 60

Plants: Anubias Barteri var. nana Blyxa Japonica Cryptocoryne parva Fissidens Fontanus Eleocharis sp.

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Eriocaulon sp. Vietnam Hemianthus callitrichoides Ludwigia sp. Super Red Microsorium pteropus Rotala sp. Hra Rotala rotundifolia

Rotala sp. Orange Juice Vesicularia dubyana Fish and Inverts: Hyphessobrycon amandae Otocinclus affinis Crossocheilus oblongus Caridina multidentata The second Bronze Prize went to

an aquascape which is a fusion of a interesting composition and beauty of aquatic plants. As a trend of recent contests, compositional eccentricity tends to be emphasized. However, this aquascape is excellent because it successfully expresses strength and a natural feeling in the relatively orthodox composition with driftwood. Moreover, stem plants

planted in the background on the left and right, are giving color and comfort to the aquascape. Although bushes of those stem plants and ferns attached to the driftwood remind us of a conventional Nature Aquarium layout, it is interesting that the overall composition of this work looks more modern as seen in the recent contests.

BRONZE PRIZE World Ranking: 0007 Juan Puchades Gender: Male Country: Spain Title: Origin. Dawn Lights Dimensions: 120 x 60 x 55 Plants: Anubias barteri var. nana Anubias barteri var. nana “Pangolino” Anubias barteri var. nana “petit” Bolbitis heudelotii Fissidens fontanus Microsorum sp. “Trident” Riccardia chamedryfolia Hemianthus callitrichoides “Cuba” Littorella uniflora Bucephalandra sp. Velvet Entikong Bucephalandra sp. Red Velvet Bucephalandra sp. Mini Belindae Bucephalandra sp. Belindae Bucephalandra sp. Mini Coin

Bucephalandra sp. Catherine Bucephalandra sp. Mini Catherine Bucephalandra sp. Cherry Mini Bucephalandra sp. Lamandau Mini Red Bucephalandra sp. Lamandau Purple Bucephalandra sp. Theia Bucephalandra sp. “Bukit Kelam/ Sintang” Bucephalandra sp. Angel Tears Bucephalandra sp. Kedagang Mini Micranthemum sp. “Monte Carlo” Cryptocoryne parva Eleocharis sp. Minima Rotala rotundifolia “Colorata” Rotala sp. Hra Rotala sp. Orange Juice Fish and Inverts: Hemmigrammus erythrozonus Trigonostigma hengeli Crossocheilus oblongus

The third Bronze Prize went to an aquascape in which scenery of a valley was expressed with a distinctive atmosphere. While assuming that a super wideangle lens would be used for photoshooting beforehand, a method of covering the left and right sides of the aquarium tank by rock walls and a method of making an arch with stones have become familiar by now.

However, by creating an arch at a low position in a deep valley and making a path leading to the back under the arch slightly visible, an interesting visual effect is created.

Even the reflection of aquatic plants on the surface of water looks like part of the composition, and this makes the central space clear and emphasizes a sense of perspective.

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HONOUR PRIZE World Ranking: 0008 Efrain Sequera Country: Spain Title: In the Darkness Dimensions: 120 x 60 x 50

It is an aquascape that expresses a sense of perspective with the thickness of driftwood pieces and their placement. Thick driftwood pieces are laid in the foreground, and thin driftwood pieces are

placed upwards in the innermost space. The sense of perspective is further emphasized by the extreme contrast combined with photoshooting using an ultra-wide angle lens.

HONOUR PRIZE World Ranking: 0009 Thiago Goncalves de Oliveira Country: Brazil Title: Spikes Valley Dimensions: 80 x 40 x 35

This aquascape has a bright impression with stones and stem plants. The work remarkably stands out with a combination of bluish stones and bright colored stem

plants. The stone arrangement with few shadows, white sand in the foreground and gradient in the background are all working effectively in this aquascape.

HONOUR PRIZE World Ranking: 0010 Javier Lecuna Country: Mexico Title: TLALOC Dimensions: 120 x 60 x 50

Lava stones are used dynamically for this aquascape. Although an overall impression tends to be heavy when using a lot of black Lava stones, by nicely planting aquatic

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plants between the stones in this work, it has a colorful impression instead of a heavy impression. The white sand in the foreground is a good choice too.

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Marine

Seahorses!

Their History, Care and Breeding By: Matt Needham

Seahorses are a spectacular sight to observe and can be easier to care for than one might think. Unfortunately, many now fall into the endangered category due to overfishing for the illegal medicinal trade.

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f the many years I have been involved with fish, Seahorses have to be one of the most characteristic and interesting I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with. With there characteristic head being shaped like that of a horse, seahorse seemed like the perfect name for these little jewels of the ocean.

O

Seahorses belong to the family Syngnathidae which incorporates two subfamilies, Seahorses (Hippocampinae) and Pipefish (Syngnathinae).

There are bout 35 different species of Seahorse with only about 10 or so, having actually appeared in the fishkeeping hobby.

For years fishkeeping enthusiasts were warned of Seahorses very delicate nature, their impossible dietary requirements and their need for ideal water conditions. This was very true as most if not all of the available species were captured from the wild and did not last very long in the aquarium. With some hard work done by Seahorse enthusiasts around the world, there are now a number of captive bred species available. Seahorses are still considered difficult to maintain although if the right conditions are supplied then even the conscientious amateur will find them well within their capability.

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Some wild seahorse are still collected for the trade, although some of these make it into dealer’s tanks with the the requirement for a Cities certificate, many do die along the way due to improper capture and transport techniques.

It is essential that if you wish to keep or breed Seahorses that you purchase captive raised individuals. There are many reasons why wild seahorses should be avoided. Not only are they harvested for the pet trade but also for medicinal purposes such as in China where they are believed to cure many ailments such as kidney disorders, high cholesterol and sexual disorders.

It is believed that around 24 million Seahorses are traded annually within this horrible practice.

Seahorses have become threatened due to the extensive harvesting of wild populations. In the Philippines alone, Seahorse populations have decreased by as much as 70%. This is very alarming as these little animals are generally quite limited in geographical distribution due to their limited mobility. Many species are endemic to certain areas

Pixabay

such as the Knysna Seahorse (Hippocampus capensis). This species exists in 3 estuaries along the South Coastline of South Africa, and has become endangered due to development destroying the environment in which these animals live. This also accounts for many other species that exist elsewhere in the world. Not all Seahorses are highly localized though, the Lined Seahorse (Hippocampus erectus) occurs right along the east coastline of the United States, into the Gulf of Mexico and down to Argentina.

Pixabay Smith TimTim Smith

22 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Due to some species being highly threatened, in 2004 all species of Seahorse were listed in

“In some tropical reef environments herbivorous fishes may account for almost half the community.”

Pixabay

Pixabay

“Seahorses lack a true stomach, with them needing to feed on an almost continual basis in order to remain healthy.

Their tissues hold very little fat and therefore are not built for lengthy fastings.”

Appendix II of the Convention of International Trade in Endangered species (Cities). With this in place, all countries that harvested Seahorses needed to prove to the authorities that they did so in a sustainable manner in which it would not harm the wild populations too significantly.

General Care Seahorses range in size from the tiniest currently described at 16 millimeters in length (Hippocampus denise) to around 35cm or so (Hippocampus abdominalus). Although some species may differ considerably in size, their requirements all remain pretty similar. A pH of 8 to 8.4 with a density of 1.020 to 1.024 is required although temperature will depend on the species. Some are far more tropical than others

requiring temperatures of around 26˚C whilst some species prefer cooler temperatures of 20˚C or less. This makes it of vital importance that if you plan on setting up a Seahorse display, that you do your homework and plan accordingly. Your local pet shop employees should be able to give you a lot of the important information you need already but doing your own research is always a great idea.

Due to Seahorses very slow movement they generally don’t compete very well with fast active fish. A Species only aquarium or one with other very slow moving fish, such as Pipefish will suit them. It is also essential that you don’t keep fragile invertebrates with them as due to their need to attach themselves by their tail

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to anything they can find, they might end up breaking one of your prized fragile corals. The size of the aquarium required will depend on the species you wish to keep and how many. The larger species should be kept in volumes of 100litres or more, where you would be able to house about 4 or so individuals, the smaller species such as the Dwarf Seahorse (Hippocampus zosterae) which grows to around 5cm or so may be kept in a group of 4 or so in a 45litre aquarium. It is essential that the water is as clean as possible with a 10% water change every 2 weeks being sufficient, with filtration being provided with a system that provides a flow of twice the tanks volume per hour.

The current need not be very high and should be fairly gentle. This can be achieved by attaching a flared tube to the outlet. The décor

should consist of plenty of sturdy supports for these fish to attach themselves too. Branch wood or hard branched corals do the trick.

Seahorses from my own experience are generally very hardy, although if their immune system is compromised then they become susceptible to a variety of ailments and pathogens such as refusing to feed and bacterial infections such as vibrio. These can be combated with many medications that you can find at your local fish shop although a Seahorse that refuses to eat may never eat again.

Diet and Conditioning Seahorses lack a true stomach, with them needing to feed on an almost continual basis in order to remain healthy. Their tissues hold very little fat and therefore

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are not built for lengthy fastings.

Due to these fish not possessing adequate fat reserves for egg production, egg maturation is dependant upon a constant supply of fatty acids from continual feeding. In the wild Seahorses feed continuously on copepods, amphipods, mysid shrimp and whatever other small crustaceans they can find. Wild caught Seahorses require these feeds as well else they will surely perish in captivity, although adult brine shrimp may suffice. The feeding response of a wild Seahorse is triggered by movement, if a prey item is not moving, then wild Seahorses will rarely strike.

Captive bred Seahorses have generally been weaned onto dead food, accepting such items such as frozen Mysid shrimp or krill. It is good practice to always ask to see whether a Seahorse is feeding

before you purchase it. Ask that they feed frozen items such as artemia, mysis etc and pay careful attention as to whether they are feeding enthusiastically. If it is eating the dead food that has been fed then you can be assured that it is of good stock.

If your goal is to breed your Seahorses, then a diet incorporating live food is your best bet. Artemia cultures can be set up, growing them out from juvenile form to a size that is acceptable for adult Seahorses.

If you are lucky enough to live close to the sea, then plankton tows are also a very good choice.

From these tows you may collect Mysis shrimp, copepods and amphipods which will be packed full of the desired nutrients your Seahorses will require for healthy reproduction.

Pixabay

Pixabay Tim Smith

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Reproduction It is believed that in the wild most species of Seahorses are reported to be monogamous, maintaining learn term pair bonds. This can be carried into the aquarium, although pair swapping may be experienced in systems incorporating a number of individuals together. Broodstock should be isolated into pairs or small groups containing 4 to 6 heterosexual individuals in equal numbers. Generally it is best to purchase a number of captive raised pre mature individuals, and let them grow and pair off naturally. Pairs are available from reputable dealers. These will generally be quite pricey although purchasing known pairs is best if you intend on breeding.

Triggering reproductive behavior in an aquarium requires little more than healthy individuals which are kept under ideal conditions and fed continuously. It is useful to maintain a light cycle of 12 to 14 hours of daylight and 10 to 12 hours of darkness. Water temperature does not normally play a big role in mating although it needs to be kept in the parameters required by the species. Depth in broodstock tanks is essential due to their modified spawning ascent.

The mating display of Seahorses is quite a magnificent spectacle.

A pair hook onto each other with their tails and rise together off the tank bottom, dancing together for a few hours. The female lays her eggs in the male’s pouch which are fertilized on the way in. If the tank is too shallow this may not occur due to the eggs being deposited in the modified brood pouch as they rise up in the water column together. These eggs are very well protected from would be predators once in the pouch. After around 2 to 4 weeks of incubation the fry are released as true replicas of their parents.

These are able to feed on artemia nauplii from day one and within a day these tiny individuals start attaching themselves to objects.

Only the Brazilian Seahorse’s (Hippocampus reidi) fry have a pelagic stage at which they remain in the water column for a number of days before settling.

Conclusion Seahorses are incredible animals and definitely one for the amateur wanting a bit more of a challenge.

Over the last year that I have kept and bred this animal, they have captured my heart in a big way, driving me to do as much research as I can and developing a passion in doing what I can to preserve these iconic fish. There currently is a project known as Project Seahorse where many scientists especially in the United States and United Kingdom have started dedicating their time into breeding, studying and protecting these amazing creatures. I suggest if you want to know more that you look up Project Seahorse on the net.

26 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Pixabay Above: Many seahorses are harvested each year, dried and sold in an illegal market for “medicinal” purposes.

Pixabay

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Q&A

Your Questions Answered!

Send your questions through to editor@thefishkeeper.co.za and we may pick yours to feature.

Freshwater My friend says that I should stay away from keeping barbs in my community aquarium due to them being known to nip other fish’s fins. I have three checker barbs which seem to get on fine with my other fish and I have yet to see them attempt to chase their tank companions. Is my friend, right?

Q

The smaller barbs such as checker barb (Barbus oligolepis) and the cherry barb (Barbus titteya) are ideal for a community tank containing a mix of smaller fish. The species that has led to barbs in general getting a bad name is the tiger barb (Barbus tetrazona).

If tiger barbs are kept in a community aquarium, one or two of them will almost certainly start to chase the other occupants and in doing so, will damage the other fish’s fins. Barbs cannot really nip the fins as they do not have teeth. Most of the damage is done by the victim itself in its haste to get away from the bully.

Large barbs such as the tinfoil barb (Barbus schwanenfeldi) and the clown barb (Barbus everetti) are too large to consider cohabiting with smaller companions for fear that they may eat them.

The majority of barbs, including the tiger barb,should be kept in groups of six or more. Barbs love to chase each other and will only chase other species if they are not in a big enough school.

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Pixabay Above: Tiger barb (Barbus tetrazona) Below: Tinfoil barb (Barbus schwanenfeldi)

28 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Pixabay

Marine After I added some new fish to my aquarium, all my fish went down with what I think is white spot disease.

I then treated the tank with a proprietary cure based on copper. Although the cure appeared to stop the disease, I lost almost half of my fish. I waited for six weeks to make sure the disease had, indeed, been eliminated and then added two new fish. These then suffered the same complaint within a couple of days.

What went wrong?

Q

First, if possible, set up a quarantine tank and use this for all the new fish.

It may be a little expensive but, in the end, will save money in that you will not lose fish in your main tank. In addition, you will not suffer the personal trauma when the fish die.

The disease you mention was either white spot (Cryptocaryon) or velvet (Oodinium).

The white spot parasite causes small pimple like spots about 1mm in size, whereas velvet is much smaller and often looks more like a fine dust over the body of the fish. The difficulty in destroying these parasites is that the creatures are only really susceptible to the copperbased cures whilst they are in the freeswimming stage. Any parasites on the fish or in the form of a cyst lying amongst the substrate are unaffected by the cure.

When the copper level falls as a result of being absorbed by the substrate etc, the parasites are able to reinfect the fish. I addition, after being infected once, the fish can develop an immunity to the disease and whilst they may not show any symptoms, they may still carry it.

It is a good idea to maintain the level of copper from the cure in the water for several weeks to ensure that the pest has been completely eliminated.

Bear in mind that invertebrates will be killed by copper-based cures, as will any of your elasmobranchs.

Setting up and using a quarantine tank in order to prevent diseases from being introduced into your main aquarium in the first place is a vital part of good fishkeeping practice but is often overlooked.

A

Marine A short while ago a bought a parrotfish which initially settled down quite well and has been feeding regularly. Recently I noticed that the fish is surrounded by what looks like a jelly. It is most obvious first thing in the morning and as the day progresses it slowly dissipates. What is this and is it a concern?

Q

There is nothing wrong with your parrotfish. In fact, it looks like it has settled down to aquarium life quite well. One of the odd characteristics of many of the parrotfish species is that they are known to secret a cocoon of mucous around themselves at night.

This is thought to be for protection against predators that feed during the night and hunt by sense of smell and taste. The cocoon seems to prevent them detecting the parrotfish. Not all species of parrotfish are able to manufacture the mucous cocoon in the wild but your fish has acclimatised well to aquarium life.

A

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Pixabay

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Marine

l a u x e s A n o i t c u Reprod ! s l a r o C n i h t i W

Asexual reproduction is the most common form of reproduction amongst corals. It has the advantage of being fast, which guarantees a more efficient colonisation of the species’ immediate environment.

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T

he methods used by corals in asexual reproduction are as varied as they are numerous, allowing corals under the right conditions to quickly colonize their immediate environment.

Scissiparity This is the normal process of growth for a coral colony which reproduces through fission.

As it grows, each coral polyp regularly divides and multiplies within the coral colony.

The Production of Larvae Corals produce ciliate larvae known as planula. Generally, these larvae are produced by sexual reproduction as a result of gametes being fertilized.

However, they are sometimes produced asexually, although evidence of this remains fairly anecdotal compared with other methods of asexual reproduction.

After being expelled, these larvae drift with the currents until they find an appropriate spot to settle, at which point they become fixed to the substrate. In suitable growing conditions, they will develop and form an adult colony.

Colonization of the environment is achieved by one of two newly formed polyps becoming detached from the main structure. This polyp falls close by and forms a new colony.

This process is particularly impressive when it occurs in single polyp corals, such as Fungia or Diaseris Diaseris.. In this case, the creature is able to divide into two identical, fair-sized individuals.

Budding Euphyllia propagate fairly easily by producing buds. It is not unusual to find small, perfectly formed individuals underneath the peripheral skeleton tissues

Above: Plerogyra sinuosa

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32 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

of the mother “plant”, which make ideal cuttings.

Young colonies can also develop from the base of Plerogyra sinuosa.. Being shaded by the sinuosa mother colony, they should be removed from the main structure when they reach a centimetre in diameter. They are easy to grow and require the same maintenance conditions as the parent colony.

In soft corals, budding occurs fairly frequently, for instance it is not unusual for a new individual to develop from a Sarcophyton or Lithophyton Lithophyton.. It is then easy to remove it and replant it close by.

Below: Diagram showing the process of asexual reproduction known as budding.

Formation of secondary colonies From time to time, skeleton embryos develop inside the tissues. A new specimen is born, right inside the original colony. Its expanding size causes the colony to expand and finally burst open. It can then be removed and planted elsewhere.

In corals with large polyps,

such as Trachyphyllia or Catalaphyllia,, tissues develop Catalaphyllia from small pieces of skeleton.

When breaking off from the mother colony, they take with them some of the tissue which grows and later forms an independent colony.

The most frequent mode of propagation in Fungia is the formation of offsets. These are small specimens which develop from the skeleton of the main coral, generally where there is a lesion in the tissues. These young corals later break off from the parent colony and start their life as independent individuals.

Replant the newcomers, spreading them around the aquarium.

Fission Fission is the accidental division of one or several parts of a colony. It is one of the most frequent modes of reproduction in branched corals subjected to strong currents, such as the Acropora.. Their location on the Acropora reef edge or in the middle of tidal zones predisposes them

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Pixabay Above: Acropora species are very easy to identify with a large portion of their reproduction occuring through fission.

Right: A coral polyp splitting into two

to the accidental fragmentation of their skeleton. The damage caused by storms is obvious to observe.

Corals are organisms endowed with very strong powers of regeneration, being able to form a new colony from a piece of broken skeleton compromising of several polyps, sometimes even just a single one. Thus, the polyps of this ‘natural cutting’ will continue to divide and settle until they form an adult colony. Of course, the place they land is a crucial factor and should meet the requirements of the species in terms of light, nutrition, stability and so forth.

34 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Pixabay

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Using Salt in a Koi Pond!

KOI

By: Angela Beckx (Koi@jungle)

Salt is widely used in the fishkeeping world for many ailments ranging from bacterial diseases, too a variety of parasites.

Angela outlines some of the Pro’s and Con’s of it’s use in ponds.

alt is used in the koi keeping world to maintain healthy koi and there are pros and cons in using non iodate salt in koi ponds.

Salt can balance osmotic pressure when a koi is sick or stressed and help them to recover better and faster if used correctly. The salt improves the mucus slime coat that koi have on their skin and makes

S

36 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

them feel better. Salt is readily available and has been used for years in the koi world. Due to this some of the parasites have become resistant to salt and you often have no choice but to use some stronger koi specific medication as well when you have a bad parasite problem.

Please always consult with your professional koi dealer or local vet

before adding any medications to your pond.

I feel it is a short-term treatment or a treatment used in quarantine procedures. Below you will find a list of Pros and a list of Cons.

The Pros of using salt: • Salt promotes mucus flow on the skin of the koi, which helps protect the koi against harmful life forms like parasites, fungus, and bacteria. The extra mucus layer on the skin makes it harder for the fungus, bacteria, and parasites to infect the koi.

• Salt is known to have mild bactericidal properties that

•

•

•

are very useful in controlling bacterial infections usually triggered in poorly maintained ponds. Salt can help work against many protozoan parasites such as costia, trichodina and chilodonella as well as flukes and other ectoparasites.

Salt can also assist in osmoregulation problems caused by bacteria ulcers and help clear congested gills.

Salt is also believed to relax the koi and relive stress due to osmosis and allowing the koi to recover more quickly.

Salt is safer than many pond

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•

treatments and will not adversely affect the biological filtration in koi ponds. If you add the salt to the pond and not into the filter section.

Salt is very affordable and is widely available.

The Cons of using salt: • Once you add salt to your koi pond it will remain in your system as it will not evaporate, and your filter will not filter it out. This means you will need to write down when you add salt to your system and how much you added. If you are going to use salt in your pond, I would recommend buying a salt meter that will read how much salt is in your koi pond at any given time. If you do not have a hydrometer, controlling salt concentration is very difficult to achieve. You need to know your salinity to make sure you have the correct dose in your pond. The recommended dose of salt is 3Kg of salt per 1000L of pond water. If you are new to salt you can start with 1kg of salt per 1000L

•

•

•

•

•

38 the fishkeeper November/December 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

of pond water.

If you have sick fish and they are not recovering after using salt, you will then need to use a stronger medication to cure your koi. This is when using salt becomes a problem as it can react negatively with some of the pond treatments.

Never add salt directly into your filter, as the sudden rise in the salinity will negatively affect your biofilter.

Using salt can be harmful to your pond plants and those that don’t die can become yellow. I would recommend taking out your water plants while you are treating with salt, especially if you have free-floating plants.

Salt can be corrosive and can promote corrosion even in some of your metallic features around your pond.

If you overdose with salt, it will reverse the osmotic pressure, making the koi release water faster than it should until it dies of dehydration.

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