kaleidoscope

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008

Russia’s Second City

Exclusive dojo

Japan Fashion Week

Luxury pens

Diamond trends

Beauty for men

contents

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008 – Volume 4, Issue 6

A look into life’s dazzling diversity

DESTINATIONS

TECHNOLOGY

DINING

St. Petersburg the Great 8

Borderless TV 13

The French Evolution 14

By Ivan Murzikov

By John Boyd

By Julian Ryall

“Built on human skulls,” Russia’s second city is abstract, cosmopolitan and blessed with abundant history and culture.

Enjoy live television from anywhere in the world wherever you are with a remarkable little gadget called Slingbox.

Finding the right place in Tokyo for this exclusive restaurant was critical for Beige owner Alain Ducasse.

TRENDS

HEALTH

STYLE

Rocks of Fire and Ice 17

Not for Pussycats 21

No Red Ink in Fine Pens 26

By Julian Ryall

By Nicole Fall

By Justin McCurry

New and established diamond retailers are focusing on standalone stores in prime spots to sell their precious gems in a cherished market.

This posh dojo is helping dispel myths about karate—and teaches how to kill with a single blow.

Despite technology and an uncertain economy, few cities compete with Tokyo for its stunning array of luxury writing implements.

FASHION

BEAUTY

Fashion Mishmash 28

For Love or Money 31

By Nicole Fall

Tony McNicol

A bit of almost everything was the underlying theme of Japan Fashion Week, as the boys took center stage.

As jobs get scarcer, women fussier, and baby boomers multiply, men are increasingly beautifying themselves for a better life.

REGULARS FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK 5

SPECIAL SECTION 24 Christmas Dining

CHOICE CHOICES 6 Wine glasses Diamonds Jewelry and accessories Natural spa

Published by: Paradigm, Kamiyama Ambassador 209, 18-6 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0047, Japan. Tel: (03) 5478-7941, Fax: (03) 5478-7942, E-mail: inquiries@paradigm.co.jp Publisher: Vickie Paradise Green | Editor-in-Chief: Simon Farrell | Editor: David Umeda | Creative Director: Richard Grehan | Art Director: Akiko Mineshima Editorial Researcher: Francesca Penazzi | Advertising Sales: Eileen Chang, Sarit Huys, Helene Jacquet, Leai Kubotsuka

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A Diamond for Everyone VERITE is first to span the distance from the mines to the Japan market.

The Digico Group has acquired VERITE, one of the major jewelry retail chains in Japan. Living up to its name, which means “truth,” VERITE wins over the trust of its customers by offering exquisite products and exceptional service that respond to their clienteles’ needs. Established in 1948 and listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange since 1991, VERITE has a strong presence—and influence on fashion—through its 104 stores across five prefectures. Most uniquely, VERITE takes a strong interest in tailoring each of its boutiques to become an integral part—in both design and consumer demographics—of every shopping complex in which a VERITE shop is located.

Digico, established in 1966, is one of the largest vertically integrated diamond and jewelry groups in the world, and holds a leading position along the entire spectrum of

the diamond and jewelry industry. Digico manufactures diamonds of Thai, Chinese and Indian makes—with a focus on H&A, ideal and special cuts. Digico markets a comprehensive portfolio of strong consumer brands—from the affordable to exclusive diamond jewelry. State-of-theart facilities in India and China engage a skilled workforce of 1,400 in the production process. Most critically to retailers and customers alike, Digico boasts qualified, experienced, award-winning designs that respond to a range of tastes and market segments. Digico has achieved Superbrand status, which is awarded by an independent judging panel of experts who ensure that only the most deserving of brands attain the credential.

Verite offers certified, trustworthy jewelry through a contemporary shopping experience.

Japan’s Largest Watch Dealer • The watches at all our stores are genuine, and so our products come with a Worldwide Guarantee. (exception: some second-hand products) • Major Credit Cards accepted.

• English-speaking staff.

• Exceptional second-hand items in the basement floor of our Shinjuku store, BEST. • Largest range of watches in Japan, as well as the most extensive floor space.

• Largest selection of Panerai, IWC, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Breitling and TAG Heuer in Japan.

• GSX watches, made only in Japan and can be bought only in Japan, with a flagship store in the Ginza.

• Store information at www.ishida-watch.com.

• Duty Free. Overseas visitors purchasing our products can receive a refund on their sales tax (passport required).

• Most prices are negotiable.

FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

Cold weather, hot ideas If Tokyo isn’t cold enough, consider the cultural treasure trove of St. Petersburg. Russia’s spectacular second city is iced over for several weeks at this time of year, but its museums, art galleries and architecture leave most warmer destinations in the shade, as you’ll see in our first feature.

But if relaxing at home is your idea of fun, we have another great idea. With dozens of foreign satellite and cable TV channels from which to choose, I was surprised to learn of something called Slingbox. With this inexpensively priced, little box, viewers can enjoy free live-feed or recorded overseas programs wherever they are—if a friend or relative abroad doesn’t mind plugging a similar device into their TV. More details on page 13.

In a gift market dominated by technological prowess and ubiquitous gadgetry, two features this issue should appeal to couples considering something classic for each other this Christmas: diamonds for her (page 17) and a luxury pen for him (page 26). Tokyo has become one of the leading cities to find both items, it seems, as international gemstone merchants branch out with standalone retail boutiques

rather than a department store floor, and leading writing-implement retailers report strong and steady demand for local and imported crafted pens.

For fashion and beauty, men also get double exposure this issue, with male models taking center stage at Japan Fashion Week (page 28), and a feature on a new generation of exclusive beauty products for men of all ages seeking to boost their love life and/or career prospects (page 31).

Simon Farrell Editor-in-Chief simonfarrell@paradigm.co.jp

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CHOICE CHOICES

a taste experience

C

laus Riedel was the first person in the long history of glass to design its shape according to the character of the wine it holds. For Georg Riedel (10th generation) and Maximilian Riedel (11th generation), this 250-year tradition continues to inspire Riedel’s glassmakers to create a true “zest for life” out of versatile glass material.

It is not surprising that, in late-1997, Riedel was approached by Fukumitsuya, a sake producer in Ishikawa Prefecture, since sake shares similar qualities to wine. An elimination process began with some 60 shapes, narrowed to 30 by a panel of experienced sake tasters, and then to a dozen of relatively similar shape, though the differentiating subtleties were critically noted. Riedel next sought the involvement of professionals and over 40 producers throughout Japan to determine the final six. Riedel then narrowed

it down to 12 Daiginjo sake producers from various regions to arrive at the final wine glass-shaped Vinum Daiginjo, originally released in 2000 (¥3,675).

The Riedel O Sake Taster is the newest Riedel glass for Daiginjo Sake. Its tumbler shape—no stem—is durable for every day use and stylish at every occasion. Offering a fun, feel-good-in-yourhands experience, the Riedel O Sake Taster Glass—similar to a chardonnay glass, with a bowl size and rim diameter only slightly different—brings out the finer qualities of the fragrant Daiginjo.

A set of two glasses in a wooden box with Japanese calligraphy makes for a lovely souvenir (¥5,250).

Riedel Wine Boutique, Aoyama, Tel: 03-3404-4456, Aoyama Twin Tower East 1F.

forever radiant

L

ike the James Bond classic, Diamonds Are Forever, VERITE understands the universal allure of this gemstone and the reliability in quality cuts that everyone has come to expect. In its Heart & Cupid series, VERITE has the diamonds cut to create the shiniest pieces and, with such precision cutting, produce a pattern of eight arrows and eight hearts that appear inside each piece.

Since 1948, VERITE luxuriously has cut diamonds to meet the top quality of global standards and, as a result, helped to sustain Japanese interest, which is as durable as the gem itself. Come to the ultimate specialty store for Heart & Cupid jewelry in Japan, with knowledgeable staff that can find the exact match for your particular passion and preferred price.

Verite Co. Ltd., Asahi Bldg. 8F, 3-33-8, Tsuruyacho, Kanagawaku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa 221-8075. Tel: 045-415-8800. www.verite.jp and www.digicogroup.com

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

VERITE is first to span the distance from the mines to the Japan market.

veritable veritas

W

hen it comes to jewelry and accessories, clientele know a good thing when they see (and wear) it.

Veritas offers bedazzling, selective customized jewelry collections created by established, trendy designers from around the world—and by budding local talent discovered and engaged by the modern, fashionable boutique. Erickson Beamon (Karen Erickson/Vicky Beamon) provides a glamorous, sensual, bold approach evolved in New York and London—their creations worn by celebrities both on and off screen, as well as along the catwalks with global fashion houses’ latest designs. Siman Tu comes up with luxury haute couture costume jewelry involving choice semi-precious stones, crystal, and cubic zirconia—and 100 solderings—that grace Miss Universes. A one of a kind collection from world-renowned Mary Jo is available exclusively at Veritas.

The popular brand Mashka includes specially designed and crafted necklaces, along with fashionable seasonal items. The Roccia collection, handcrafted by a talented Japanese designer, takes the mystery, innocence of a rough diamond and gives the precious stone a contemporary form expressing the essence of existence.

Veritas, in 2008, introduced its house brand, Bon Verger. Open: 11:00-21:00. Roppongi Hills, WESTWALK 3F, Tel. 03-3401-8051; Omotesando Hills, B1, Tel. 03-3408-0517; Shin-Marunouchi Bldg., 1F, Tel. 03-3211-6511.

the beauty of spas

O

ver 5.7 million annual spa-lovers favor Elemis, the leading British spa and skincare brand. Natural active ingredients with cutting-edge technology and clinical trials make for a winning combination that has enabled Elemis to introduce into the market anti-ageing products and professional spa therapies that hold strong sway over what consumers prefer. An elite network of over 1,200 spas in 45 countries, 130 cruise ships and selected department stores across the globe serve as distributors of Elemis spa therapies and products. Convenient Elemis shopping locations for travelers are British Airways Elemis Travel Spas at London’s Heathrow Airport (T1 & T4) and, since March, at Heathrow T5; and New York’s JFK International Airport (T7). There also is a handy online shopping site (www.timetospa.co.uk) for Elemis antiageing, skincare, bath & body, and healthcare product lineup, as well as a special section for men, brides and gifts.

Kaleidoscope / 7

destinations

ST. PETERSBURG

GREAT THE

Visitors to Russia’s second city risk a cultural and historical overdose.

BY Ivan Murzikov

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

F

amous Russian poet and author Fyodor Dostoevsky called St. Petersburg, “the most abstract and intentional city in the world.” There’s a very good reason for this, and one that has resulted in ordinary modern Russians being very conflicted about their beautiful city.

Depending on to whom you are speaking, some natives think of the place either as glorious, or as “being built on human skulls.” You see, Peter the Great, the legendary Russian leader who decided to build St. Petersburg, did not let anything stop him in his goal of modernizing Russia, and this city was to be the crown jewel. So the tsar took all the things he so adored of modern Europe, and superimposed them on a still very conservative and traditional Russia. Understandably, the one backlash was plenty of resistance, countered with crushing determination by Peter the Great, wherein the reference to the many skulls.

Yet, another consequence of the ruler’s determination is a city unlike any other. Essentially situated on a large number of islands, St. Petersburg is often called the “Venice of the North,” in reference to its many canals and bridges. Visit the city in high summer ( JuneAugust), and you’ll be able to witness one of the great spectacles

the city has to offer: the raising of the bridges under a white night.

During summertime, St. Petersburg can be very hot, but the upshot is the length of the day—lasting as long as beyond midnight and into the early hours of the morning. Just be sure to have a means of getting back to the hotel, though, because once the bridges are up, taxis can’t cross them (and the metro stops working just after midnight). Winter is long, with temperatures dropping to –12ºC (even –20ºC is not unusual), although the average is -8ºC. The Neva Riva freezes from November 25 to December 5, and the ice stays until mid-April.

Relatively young in worldly terms (founded in 1703), St. Petersburg, nevertheless, boasts more than 200 museums, including the worldfamous Hermitage, previously used as the tsars’ Winter Palace.

Today, besides offering a glimpse into the domestic life of Russian nobility, the museum is also home to one of the world’s largest collections of art. Essentially making use of six large edifices, the Hermitage houses 3 million exhibits. and is said to hold the world record for the largest number of paintings under one roof. The impressive collection includes works by Rembrandt, Renoir, Monet, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci.

City of extremes—St. Petersburg’s winters are as cold as the summers are hot.

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For me, however, the piece de resistance of St. Petersburg is Peterhof, located about a one-hour’s drive from the city center. It is said that Peter the Great drew inspiration from the French Palace d’Versailles, and this is certainly apparent in the surrounding lavish gardens. Yet, it is the beautiful fountains of the Grand Cascade that truly stun any visitor into silence. The centerpiece is a golden statue of Samson tearing open the jaws of a lion (symbolic of Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War), from which a jet of water shoots 20m high. Intriguingly, the fountains operate without the use of pumps, applying only a variance in elevation to achieve the necessary pressures. Peterhof is very popular with the Russians (who happen to be charged less to enter than foreign tourists). The queues, therefore, can be quite long, so plan to get there early.

Incidentally, compared with the over-the-top detailing and size of most St. Petersburg noble residences, Peter the Great’s first home is surprisingly humble, a small wooden dwelling near Trinity Square.

Also on the must-see list are the beautiful baroque Catherine Palace, St Isaac’s Cathedral (closed on Wed.) and the colorful Church of the Saviour on Blood. There also is the Kunstkamera— laying claim to be Russia’s first museum. Peter the Great was fascinated by natural and especially human curiosities, and collected many weird and wonderful specimens during his travels. The Kunstkamera collection includes a skeleton of one of Peter the Great’s servants, Bourgeois—whose 2.27m frame must have raised eyebrows back in the 1700s.

To visit every museum in St. Petersburg is not likely to be possible for most visitors, due to time constraints; plus, you may end up suffering from historical exhaustion if you attempt to do so.

Locals love long summer nights, called “white nights”, to view the lifting of St. Petersburg’s many bridges.

Inset top: The Hermitage, bottom: Summer Palace (Peterhof )

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Thankfully, St. Petersburg also offers plenty of night-time entertainment, including the world-famous Mariinsky theater, home of the Mariinsky Ballet company and opera. In total, St. Petersburg offers more than 50 theaters! Every year, the city is the venue for about 100 art festivals, so it’s worth visiting its tourism Web site to confirm dates.

For shopaholics, nothing beats the Nevsky Prospect, situated on the leftbank of the Neva River. You’ll find not only many curio outlets, but also some upmarket shops, including Belage (Russian and European antiques). When walking around the Nevsky Prospect, you’ll take in nice views of the canals; a boat cruise would be a nice option (just be sure to verify there’s an English guide on board)—as many of the most impressive buildings were constructed facing the water. You’ll also find some of the best restaurants, including the famous Sverchok (The Cricket) that serves traditional cuisine in a setting to look like a typical Russian village. Also highly rated are Kolkhida (Georgian) and Valhall (Viking, with cabaret shows).

St. Petersburg has a number of superb exclusive hotels, most notably the famous Astoria, located in St. Isaac’s Square and part of the exclusive Rocco Forte Hotels chain. The Nevsky Prospect

L USEFU

WEB S

ITES

advice) general ( m o .c g sbur b site) int-peter l city We ia e) c ffi (o www.sa ng/ vice, guid neral ad bru.ru/e e g tel) ( o h m o ia www.sp r Astor urgcity.c b ta s r -s e te v e useum) om (fi www.p amera m lastoria.c tk te s o n h u e h (K / www.t ra.ru/en eater) nstkame riinsky th a (M / www.ku n /e riinsky.ru f palace) www.ma (Peterho g r o f. o terh www.pe

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is home to a number of five-star hotels, including the Corinthia Nevskij Palace. Also located nearby are the Grand Hotel Europe and Grand Hotel Emerald.

This is a city of extraordinary complexity and depth. Although St. Petersburg is probably the most westernized of the big Russian cities, it remains difficult to get under the surface and to explore on your own, simply because English is not commonly spoken or used. Even the otherwise superb underground metro does not have English signage. At the moment, a working understanding of the Russian alphabet, at the very least, is a requirement if you want to get around.

So, abstract it may very well be—and intentionally so, being it was very much emanating from the vision and obsessions of one man.

Nevertheless, modern-day St. Petersburg has evolved into one of the world’s most fascinating and beautiful cities. You’ll need a lifetime to take it all in, though, so it is no surprise to learn that many tourists of this great “museum without a roof ” are return visitors, keen to delve ever deeper into St. Petersburg’s many mysteries.

Ivan Murzikov is a freelance writer based in Cape Town.

technology

borderless TV Enjoy live or recorded global TV wherever you are with Slingbox.

By John Boyd

S

ome TV viewers may be tempted to sling their sets out the window, but the majority of us are probably closet TV junkies. If you can’t live without your weekly fix of Lost or Prison Break, and you travel frequently, then you ought to take a look at Slingbox, a nifty set-top box from Sling Media Inc., based in Foster City, California. Slingbox lets you remotely—and legally—view your home TV programs on a computer, from around the globe, courtesy of the Internet. For expats, “home TV” could literally be located in your home country—provided you have an accommodating relative on whom to rely.

The device is not limited to streaming live TV. You also can view content stored on a digital video recorder. The top-end Slingbox Pro model (not available in Japan) enables up to four separate video sources to be connected at the same time, though accessed one at a time.

U.S. expat Jesse Green is a Slingbox user. For the past eight months, he has had his Slingbox connected to the TV and video recorder of his sister in Minnesota. Given the 14-hour time difference, by the time he gets home at night in Tokyo, he can enjoy live U.S. TV and recorded programs, just as his sister is leaving for work in the morning.

“During the Olympics,” he says, “I was able to watch the U.S. broadcast of the games from my hotel room each night when I was traveling.”

Using the video cables included, you hook the Slingbox up to the TV and your digital video recorder setup, then use an Ethernet cable to link to your router for the Internet broadband connection. Green has high praise for the Slingbox technology that compresses the video stream flowing from the source, through the Internet, and eventually to both his PC and Mac. Concerning the latter, SlingPlayer provides the software to install.

“You can watch the video in reduced size in the top corner of your display while you work, and the picture is incredible,” says Green. “The quality decreases in full-screen mode, but it is still good enough.”

SlingPlayer also provides a virtual onscreen remote controller that enables you to manipulate the video source as if you were in the same room.

A localized version of the standard model is now available in Japan for ¥29,800 through Itochu Corp. (www.slingmedia.jp/); and expats also can check out the Slingbox Web site (www. slingmedia.com/) to buy abroad or online.

John Boyd is a freelance technology writer based in Kawasaki.

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dining

the french

EVOLUTION For this perfectionist, only one location in Tokyo would do.

By Julian Ryall Photos by Robert Gilhooly

Alain Ducasse is distracted. Something has caught his eye in the stunning interior of Beige, the restaurant that he opened on the 10th floor of the Chanel Building in Tokyo’s swish Ginza district in December 2004—and he wants it rectified.

Ducasse’s attention to detail is legendary, and spans every level of a business that now stretches from his native France to Las Vegas, London, Beirut and now Japan. But it begins with the food that his kitchens serve.

“We try to use as many Japanese products as possible in the cuisine that we serve here, creating a blend that is both local and unmistakably French,” says Ducasse. “Like clothes, the two have to fit together exactly correctly.”

Beige has 80 covers and a team of 20 in the kitchen overseen by Head Chef Jerome Lacressonniere. The menu undergoes four major changes each year, in symphony with the changing seasons; but more subtle alterations are a constant feature of the menu.

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“We chose to come to this address, the best in Japan, and to work with Chanel because of their commitment to excellence and because their work is a contemporary classic,” says Ducasse, “which is also very much what we are.”

The restaurant is the result of close collaboration between Ducasse, Chanel designer Peter Marino and Karl Lagerfeld, who designed the staff uniforms.

“We went through the very smallest details together, from the ambience to the tables, to chairs that were made in France; but we also decided to integrate Japanese culture and arts in the furniture that you see as soon as you arrive on the 10th floor.

“The table art was selected from pieces tailor-made by artisans in France and Japan, so we can reach the perfect balance between French and Japanese culture within Chanel’s world,” he says.

“We have tradition and we obviously evolve,” Ducasse explains, “but if there is no base to build on, then it is impossible to do.

Top left: Alain Ducasse discusses the day’s menu at Beige with head chef Jerome Lacressonniere.

Bottom left: Ducasse’s ingredients are fresh and healthy.

“Evolution, but no revolution,” he says with a wry smile, wagging a finger to make his point.

Today’s lunch starter is thin slices of anchovy atop an escabeche jelly with fresh lime, sculpted tiny carrots and a smooth avocado purée. True to Ducasse’s commitment to using only the very best ingredients, today’s fish had been purchased a couple of hours ago, at nearby Tsukiji fish market.

During the summer, a limited supply of sought-after shrimps is secured from Issey Bay in southern Japan. In season with the arrival of autumn, Matsutake mushrooms, which Ducasse recommends serving with crepes, white truffles and black truffles “the most elegant and refined” of a fungus often called black gold—are from Italy’s Alba region.

“We’re constantly trying to achieve harmony of tastes, and applying techniques and tastes from France to try to satisfy the Japanese public’s requirements,” he says.

A conscious decision has been made to make Beige more casual at lunchtimes, with the ambiance, menu, wine list and lighting different in the middle of the day. The favorable result has been success in attracting a loyal clientele of women at lunchtime, as well as serving business lunches. In the evening, the vast majority of diners are couples.

Fine dining that is unique to Japan, Ducasse says, means there was little difference in opening his restaurant in the Ginza than elsewhere; but the fact that countries do have different habits and cultures must be remembered and respected.

“To operate a restaurant, it is important to understand the country, the food habits, the products, the people, the manners,” he says.

“You have to be open-minded and listen to other people’s opinions. It takes time to build up a sense of authenticity.”

Ducasse emphasizes that operating a top-class restaurant in Tokyo is a far cry from what might appear to be the same project transplanted to Las Vegas, New York or Paris.

“Everything is different,” he says. “Consequently, I have to always be curious and ready to accept those differences.” The result is that a meal at Beige is unlike eating at any other Alain Ducasse restaurant.

He agrees that there are, of course, ingredients that are less acceptable to the Japanese palate. Strong flavors—lamb, for example—do not work as well here as elsewhere, in much the same way as strong perfumes fall flat with Japanese consumers.

The key is to be in harmony, says Ducasse, to achieve what he calls “justice between the flavors.”

With a Michelin star under his belt at the tender age of 33, Ducasse became the first chef to operate two three-star restaurants simultaneously. By 2001, that achievement had become nine restaurants. So how does a man with so many demands upon his time – and such a keen eye for the details – relax at the end of another grueling day?

“By thinking of tomorrow’s challenges,” he says. “My aim is simply to do better every day and to make sure that our customers are happy.”

Julian Ryall is Tokyo correspondent for The Daily Telegraph.

Top Left: Need Caption, Top Right: Exterior of BEIGE Bottom Right: Need Caption, Bottom Center: Need Caption, Bottm Left: Entrance of BEIGE

trends

rocks of fire and

By Julian Ryall

ice

Kaleidoscope / 17

“Rough diamonds had never been tried as a collection here before, but they are gradually accounting for a larger proportion of our total sales as we educate people.”

The Takashimaya department stores target Japan’s big spenders with their merchandise. On May 21, the Osaka branch unveiled a bejeweled bouquet studded with diamonds and Mexican opals, designed to look like leaves, with a price tag of ¥147 million ($1.39 million.)

The stem and leaves of the bouquet, which stands 90cm tall, are made of twisted silver, and the centerpiece is an 11.5-carat yellow diamond ring, alone worth ¥68.3 million ($644,000.)

“We want our customers to experience wonder and fun through this unique bouquet—the one and only of its kind anywhere in the world,” says a spokesman for the store. Clearly, Takashimaya is confident that there is life at the very top end of a market that most diamond companies fear is steadily but surely contracting as a result of global economic concerns.

Japan was fertile ground for top-end diamond jewelry companies throughout the business boom years of the 1980s; and while the following decade saw a decline in sales across the board, the big brand names and niche companies today are investing more in fortifying their presence in Japan. Nowhere is that more apparent than in Tokyo’s upmarket Ginza district.

“We opened our new flagship store in Ginza on March 28, and we’re definitely benefiting from the higher profile that has given us,” says Yoriko Daijima, director of public relations at De Beers Diamond Jewellers Japan K.K. “Previously, we did not have our own freestanding outlet in Japan, and we depended on business at department stores.

“Our sales were very strong, but that sales channel is now losing its power in Japan and traffic is decreasing, so we decided to have our own store in Ginza,” she says, while also emphasizing that the company had always planned to have its own unique outlet. “We’re very lucky to have this luxury shopping district in Tokyo, and already we have had instances in which people have come into the store and spent several million yen on pieces.”

The key to keeping sales ticking over, according to Marketing Director Hiroko Netsu, is to develop a strong client base through personal networks and events designed to attract new customers.

One way of achieving that is by appealing to Japanese consumers’ fascination with new ranges of jewelry that are significantly different from anything else that is available.

De Beers launched the Talisman collection in Japan in late-2005, followed by the Ice On Fire and Burning Rocks collections last year, all of which make use of rough diamonds.

“Rough diamonds had never been tried as a collection here before, but they are gradually accounting for a larger proportion of our total sales as we educate people,” says Netsu.

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A second pillar of De Beers’ sales strategy here is the luxury bridal market, which has seen steady growth, she says, with the company exploring possibilities among the more mature market in response to an increasing number of Japanese who are getting married later in life, as well as those getting married a second time.

In July, the company introduced a new four-item bridal ring collection, Forever Ring, with stones ranging from 0.30 carats to 0.70 carats, and the rings starting from ¥210,000 ($1,989.)

“The bridal ring sector has been very complicated, based on the four Cs [color, carat, cut, clarity], and each item individually priced; but this range only has four items at four prices, and only minor variations in the colors,” says Netsu. “But a buyer will know that he is still getting a very good quality De Beers diamond for as much as 40% less than in other stores.”

Opening the flagship store also has been good for business in regards to foreign visitors to the Ginza, which has become an important tourist attraction in its own right. One Russian customer made a very quick purchasing decision, and snapped up a ring and earrings from the Talisman set for ¥5 million ($47,000), she says.

And that doesn’t happen on every high street in the country.

Tiffany & Co. also has recognized the importance of having a presence in the district. The global jeweler’s completely redesigned flagship store is scheduled to open in November, according to spokesman Mark Aaron.

The land and building housing the store were purchased by Tiffany in 2003 to secure the company’s long-term presence at the prime location. The revamped outlet will have an elegant exterior design of honeycomb glass panels, while the interior will showcase the broadest selection of Tiffany designs in Japan.

“The Japanese market is very important to us, although it has been a challenging market for us for several years,” says Aaron.

“We have seen periods recently in which sales have been up or down moderately, and sales in the first quarter of the year were down 2%.

“Clearly, there has been a challenging macroeconomic climate, but we are focusing on improving the business in terms of client development and building new relationships,” he says. “We are relocating to some better sites, and clearly there are some economic headwinds that are holding us back; but we have seen very strong growth in Asia and overall our sales are up very nicely.”

The most recent newcomer to the Japanese market has been Graff Diamonds Japan, which only opened its first salon in Japan—indeed, the company’s first store in Asia—on the ground

floor of the new The Peninsula Tokyo hotel, opposite the Imperial Palace, in September 2007.

“Before we opened, we did wonder whether there would be demand for this kind of jewelry in Japan, but we have been very happy at the number of people who are coming to Graff and the kinds of products they are buying,” says Kaoru Khan, director of marketing and communications.

“The people who come to Graff are looking for really good quality items, and the best-selling items to date have been diamond rings,” she says. Graff has a policy of only selling stones of 1 carat or larger, while other stores are generally in the 0.50-carat range.

“In Japan, wearing big diamonds has not been popular because it is not considered polite to show off one’s wealth, but that attitude is changing,” Kahn says. “Our strength is that we only have the bestquality items, and anyone who is looking to buy a 5-carat stone will naturally come to us—as if they go elsewhere, they will only have one or two items to choose from; here they have dozens.”

Many of Graff ’s customers in Japan are company owners, top athletes and entrepreneurs; and even though local demand for white diamonds remains strong, Khan says there is growing interest in colored diamonds. Graff controls more than 60% of the world’s yellow diamond production, and is optimistic that Japanese consumers will be keen to try something different.

Julian Ryall is Tokyo correspondent for The Daily Telegraph.

Left: De Beers Talisman Rings Above: Graff Store Interior Top: A six-carat yellow diamond is centerpiece of this necklace.

Kaleidoscope / 19

health

not for pussycats

By Nicole Fall

Dispelling karate’s tainted TV image as the common man’s kick-sport, this very exclusive dojo teaches how to kill with

Photo Courtesy KWF

a single strike.

Kaleidoscope / 21

Photo Courtesy KWF

“As a sensei, my techniques cannot get rusty or my movements slow, because that would be an embarrassment.”

22 / Kaleidoscope

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

Photo Courtesy Paul Kallender–Umezu

The new KWF ShotoKan is one of the most exclusive, read “expensive,” members-only karate clubs in the world. A quick look around the premises suggests it is one of the poshest dojos in existence. Hidden behind imposing, fortress-like walls in Tokyo’s salubrious Shoto residential district, it was built by the billionaire president of industrial loan business SFCG Co. Ltd., Kenshin Oshima, as a gift to a man who is simply known as “Lone Wolf.”

The Wolf may be getting on a bit at the grand old age of 61; but like his wild animal namesake, Mikio Yahara can be swift and just as deadly when he needs to pounce.

The KWF ShotoKan, also known as the Oshima-Yahara Friendship Memorial Dojo, was launched on March 31, 2007, and acts as a cultural center to introduce karate techniques to the world. The donated space–Oshima is a pupil of Mikio Yahara—is the home of the Karatenomichi World Federation (KWF) headquarters, which, for martial arts aficionados, means it specializes in the traditionalstyle karate.

Founded by Yahara, the organization claims members throughout the world, who follow the KWF’s stated goal in pursuing technical excellence. For those who do not know the first thing about karate other than that proponents dress up in colored belts and baggy white outfits, let me explain that the KWF attempts to distinguish itself from other organizations by returning to the values of the Japan Karate Association of the 1950s to the 1980s.

According to KWF credos, the target is to train to achieve Ichigeki Hissatsu—or, roughly translated, learn to throw a single killing punch or kick. Followers do this by focusing more on the hips, back and inner muscles to produce an explosive power, or “killing blow.”

“Karate has been badly misrepresented down the years,” says British-born Paul Kallender-Umezu, who is a KWF ShotoKan member and spokesperson for the dojo. “For example, traditional karate was swamped by the Kung-fu boom of the ’70s. More recently, most people tend to think of karate as a kickboxing sport like K-1.

“Whereas karate has sometimes a rough working-class image” he says, “the ShotoKan offers the opposite experience. All lessons are private and conducted by elite instructors.”

Staff at the KWF ShotoKan are at the top of their game. Yahara teaches a weekly class to a mixture of international and Japanese students who need to be black belt-level to join. Other instructors include Norio Kawasaki, a former Japan champion. Aside from billionaires and rock stars, other pupils at the dojo include fashion designer Yoji Yamamoto, a black belt who is also chairman of the KWF. A smattering of the international community working in Tokyo also boast membership.

Tuition at such exclusive surroundings is not cheap. There are two membership levels: Executive and Premium. The latter allows users to bring up to four high-kicking family members, and involves a ¥40,000-per-hour ticket system, with a 10-hour minimum. Executive members are charged half this amount, but membership is extended

to just one person. On top of this hourly fee is an initiation fee of ¥1 million, and an annual fee of ¥200,000—or about ¥1.5 million per annum for Executive members. While this fee may sound high to those who have not practiced karate, for passionate participants of the sport the cost is minimal to be able to train with this martial art’s best practitioners.

Yahara is something of a legend in the karate world. Born in Ehime Prefecture in 1947, his uncle was a local kendo master, his brother a karate expert and his mother descended from pirates. Street fighting with local gangs, Yahara sensibly channeled his excess energy into karate as a teenager, rising through the ranks of the Japan Karate Association to become the best fighter of his generation. He even went on to teach Japan’s rebellious author, poet and playwright, Yukio Mishima.

Scrape after scrape–as many off the mats as on them–have added to his legend. Tales of fighting 34 gangsters in one incident, through to removing teeth embedded in Yahara’s knuckles after one fight, seal the danger and, for many, the thrill of karate.

But do not get the wrong idea about Yahara’s KWF. It is not just a place for brute force, but for some practitioners, almost a route to spirituality. For Yuko Kallender-Umezu, Paul’s wife, putting on her white karate gi is almost a religious experience.

“The karate outfit is very similar to the clothing worn by Japanese when they are being prepared for cremation. So by putting on the karate suit, you are preparing to face death,” she says solemnly.

“This adds more challenge to karate and also an element of spirituality, too.”

The petite Japanese woman would not look out of place shopping on the smart streets of the Ginza; but in the KWF ShotoKan, she removes her make-up and nail varnish to look more natural and, in effect, “close as possible to her natural state” for any practice.

“Karate for me is really cleansing,” she says. “I practice three times a week at ShotoKan and working on my kata [specific moves], allows me to forget everything else going on in my life.”

As a black belt, Yuko feels more empowered on the streets, too.

“I definitely feel danger more instinctively,” she says, a feeling many women would envy in an increasingly dangerous world.

Yahara has broken 12 bones as a karate professional, and even in his sixties works on new moves to pass on to his students. But slowing down is not an option for The Wolf.

“As a sensei [respected teacher], my techniques cannot get rusty or my movements slow, because that would be an embarrassment,” he humbly explains.

“I will retire before that happens because I do not want to lose my dignity,” Yahara states proudly.

Out of the dojo, he is a married man of five years, and has a three-year-old toddler son, whom he is teaching karate. The Lone Wolf ? More like a friendly pussycat.

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Kaleidoscope / 23

christmaS dining

CHRISTMAS the locanda • hilton tokyo Mandarin ORIENTAL, TOKYO • mario i sentieri trader vic’s • The Westin Tokyo

dining

The Locanda was created with the guidance of Elio’s relatives as an extension of the Orsara family, a way of sharing their home. It mirrors the traditions of Italy’s wayside inns, an ambience valued by Elio’s grandmother, who is herself a renowned chef in Southern Italy.

Fresh homemade pasta; mozzarella and other delights flown in from Italy; fine presentation of vegetables and seafood; the perfect wine; friendly and expert service — this is Elio’s.

Sixty guests sit in comfort amid the relaxing earth tones of the Locanda. A private room for six to 10 people is equipped for after-dinner cigars; Elio offers superb Cubans from his collection.

Lunch is served from 11:45 (last order at 14:15) and dinner from 17:45 (last order 22:15). Lunch course menus are offered at ¥1,600, ¥2,200 and ¥3,800. Dinner menus are at ¥5,500, ¥6,500, ¥8,500 and ¥10,000. At dinner, a ¥600 cover and a 10% service charge apply.

The Hilton Tokyo is providing a great fulfilling special season’s fare—in a setting full of Christmas cheer.

Savor the special dishes at our Christmas buffet, while sharing the variety of dishes and the festive spirit with family and friends. Feast on Checkers’ signature dish “Roast Turkey”—and so much more.

Christmas Lunch Buffet, December 22-25,11:00-15:00, ¥4,200 (¥2,730 child). Christmas Dinner Buffet, December 22-25, 17:30-22:00, ¥8,400 (¥4,200 child). At the Brasserie “Checkers” 2F. Tel: 03-3344-5111. 6-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, 6-chome, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0023.

Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo is providing irresistible Christmas specials—from Michelin-starred cuisine, confections and gift box treats, to health treatments and gift certificates.

Christmas feasts have been created for the French-inspired, Michelin-starred Signature (37F), Cantonese-style Sense (37F), Asianinspired K’shiki (38F), chic Italian Ventaglio (2F) and intimate Tapas Molecular Bar (38F).

Yuletide confectionary delights include semi-sweet chocolate mousse, layered cheese-creamed ananas fromage, custard cream-filled Mont Blanc, and DIY gingerbread house.

Gourmet Shop celebrates with gift box delights, including traditional two-tiered assortment of Japanese snacks, jam set (strawberry, raspberry, apricot and honey), original salad dressings (Mandarin orange, Italian, honey rosemary), and Cantonese teri sauce. Spa Boutique offers gift certificates, custom-made time-ritual counseling, facials (including pre-party treatments), foot therapies, and more.

2-1-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 103-8328.

Tel: 03-3270-8800 .

24 / Kaleidoscope Special Section

Mario i sentieri in Nishi-Azabu serves the cuisine of Versilia, a beach resort near Pisa, in Tuscany, chef Mario Frittoli’s hometown and where Italy’s motto, “Mangiare, Cantare, Amore,” rings truest.

Mario i sentieri is dedicated to make you spend a great time with families and friends, with superb authentic dishes created by the culinary maestro himself, and inspiring music played through an exceptional quality JBL sound system. Yet, you know you are in the heart of Tokyo once you step into an interior of innovative design with a modern Japanese touch by worldrenowned Tange Associates. It’s nothing short of heartwarming, a milieu in which to luxuriate in an enchanting dining experience.

With only the choicest fresh in-season ingredients—including vegetables straight from Italy—along with a highly selected choice of wines, Mario i sentieri embodies his hometown’s unique position of being blessed with food from both the mountains and the sea.

Chef Fritolli’s creative, passionate, authentic dishes will include a “Wine Dinner Don Perignon” for Christmas.

Trader Vic’s serving Aloha Brunch – Christmas Island Style, December 21-23, and Christmas Island Dinner, December 22-25, in resort ambience.

Thirty-dish buffet, 11:30-14:30 [¥6,600, Adults; ¥3,300, 4-12 y.o. (tax/service charge incl.)], includes traditional Christmas roasted turkey from wood-fired oven, free flow of complimentary sparkling wine.

Japanese hula dancers and singers perform the Melehula throughout.

Five-course candlelit dinner, 17:00-22:00 (¥18,900, plus 10% service); why not imbibe in optional original exotic cocktails, including famous Mai Tai?

The Westin Tokyo’s The Terrace Restaurant is serving a Grand Christmas Buffet from December 12, Friday, to 25, Christmas.

A chic architectural style and modern European cooking at The Terrace combine to deliver an uncomplicated, yet elegant retreat in the heart of Ebisu. Mouthwatering aromas and the sounds of sizzling pans emanate from the airy open kitchen as guests view hotel chefs in full flight adding their special touches to delicious cutting-edge cuisine. Celebrate the holiday season with a superb selection and abundance of Christmas favorites along with popular roast turkey.

Enjoy the Lunch buffet—105 min., 12:00-13:45 & 14:15-16:00—at ¥5,500 (¥3,000 child), or treat yourself to the Dinner buffet—120minutes, 17:00-19:00 & 19:3021:30—at ¥8,500 (¥4,000 child). For this special occasion, reservations are being accepted from December 1, Monday. Tel. 03-5423-7778

Style

no red ink in fine pens

By Justin McCurry

Technology and weak economy fail to spell end of classic penmanship.

I

n the age of e-mail and text messaging, it would be reasonable to think that the good old-fashioned pen has had its day. When needs arise, most of us reach for a ballpoint costing little more than ¥100. The idea of parting with ten or several hundred times that amount for a highend fountain pen is anathema.

In Japan, however, conventional wisdom has been turned on its head. In this nation of amateur calligraphers, where no self-respecting business would ask its clients to sign a document with a well-chewed Biro, the luxury pen market is seeing off the technology-led assault on penmanship with all the bold assurance of copper-plated letters on crisp, white notepaper.

Mention fountain pens and most of us think of the rows of shiny implements tucked away in department store display cases: Parker, Schaeffer, Mont Blanc, Pelikan, Waterman. While their sophistication is pleasing to the eye, they’re often prohibitively expensive—and not for us. In the battle between style and substance, the latter, it seems, has the upper hand.

That is a great shame, as there are few cities in the world better equipped than Tokyo to end the modern-day addiction to the ballpoint and replace it with genuine penmanship.

Above: Pilot Capless Fermo Series

26 / Kaleidoscope

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

Fountain pens have been around since the late-19th century, and Japan has been involved almost from the start. Pilot, the country’s leading pen maker, was founded in 1918; Swan, launched in 1906 by financier Nobuo Itou, was making highquality pens with 14 carat-gold nibs before WWI; and Athena, which later became Maruzen, sold its first range of fountain pens in 1909.

Pilot stands at the apex of Japan’s Big Three pen makers, ahead of Sailor and Platinum. All three firms produce a huge, and constantly evolving, range of writing instruments—proving that, even in Japan, beautiful, idiosyncratic handwriting needn’t always come from the charcoal swish of a shuji master’s brush.

Pilot broke into the general market with its range of capless pens (sold as Vanishing Point in the U.S.), with their retractable nib twist action—a technological sensation when they were introduced in 1946 and which remain popular to this day.

The firm is synonymous with Namiki (Dunhill-Namiki in Europe and the U.S.)—a line of handcrafted pens named after the firm’s founder, Ryosuke Namiki, that sell for up to several million yen.

The high price tag is justified. Each Namiki pen, exquisitely decorated with multiple layers of maki-e (sprinkled picture) lacquer, takes eight months to a year to produce at Pilot’s factory in Hiratsuka. The product is a pen like no other.

“Fountain pens have survived the arrival of the typewriter, the word processor and now the PC. People have written things down since time immemorial.”

The fondness a serious writer has for his pen is akin to that of the golfer’s for his trusty five-iron: it can’t do the job unless it feels right. The lesson, then, to anyone considering investing in a new fountain pen is try before you buy.

First, though, ask yourself why invest in a ¥30,000 Parker or Pelikan? After all, scribbling effortlessly in a notebook isn’t the same as signing a business document or penning a heartfelt declaration of love to a faraway sweetheart.

“The characters and letters that appear when you use a fountain pen really do bring out the personality of the writer,” says Taeko Hashimoto of Shosaikan Pen Boutique, whose glass cases are filled with thousands of pens by about 30 makers, in Aoyama.

Though fiercely individualistic when it comes to their choice of implement, seasoned enthusiasts agree that a good pen should flow across the page with minimal effort. While the nib may be a little unyielding to begin with, if it’s a good one—and Japan makes some of the best around—it should adapt over time to the writer’s idiosyncrasies.

For the beginner, Hashimoto recommends a capless push pen by any of the noted makers. A personal favorite is the Pelikan Traditional—a really sturdy pen that, like similar models by other makers, retails for an affordable ¥15,750. Most can be used with cartridges, or by dipping the nib in a pot of ink the oldfashioned way.

Generally speaking, the thicker the pen the better.

“The weight and balance is really important,” says Eizo Fujii, owner of Eurobox, tucked away in a Ginza side street and a treasure trove of around 3,500 antique fountain pens. “A pen with a lot of weight towards the top end can be difficult to use. A really thin pen is no good at all—you’ll just end up getting tired.”

While fountain-ink penmanship in Europe had to contend early on with the arrival of typewriters, the aesthetic requirements of Japan’s character-rich language gave the handwritten skill a built-in protection against technology, even in this age of multilingual, word-processing software.

“Using a pen to write Japanese allows you to get the thickness of the lines just right,” explains Mari Tanaka of Pilot’s marketing department. “A proper pen feels really good to hold. I think the same can be said for writing beautiful English.”

A budget of ¥20,000 to ¥30,000 should be enough to secure a fountain pen that combines style, comfort and, crucially, a nib that will stand the test of time, says Tanaka.

“It’s a very personal thing. First of all, remember that you are buying an implement. It has to do the job. The look and design are important, but they should be secondary considerations,” she says.

“If you’re willing to spend about ¥20,000, you will have a pen you can use for the rest of your life, provided you use it properly.”

It is possible to spend a great deal more, of course. Shosaikan sells a Caran d’Ache limited edition, containing 10 components made from 18-carat gold, for ¥2.6 million. The pride of Fujii’s collection is a circa 1910 Parker Ultra Giant—one of only five in the world—that could fetch in excess of $34,000.

For the Tokyo-based buyer, however, it is possible to obtain the perfect bespoke pen for much, much less from one of the city’s myriad specialist dealers, department stores and high-end stationery suppliers.

“In the past, there were just a few collectors, but recently there has been a surge in the number of people who want to give fountain pens a try,” says Eurobox’s Fujii, a fluent English speaker who augments his collection with regular visits to Europe and the United States. “There are around eight magazines devoted to the subject—it’s amazing. You could say there is a pen boom, at least in Japan.”

Fujii, his indispensable laptop resting on his desk, doesn’t think that it will be different in the future.

“Fountain pens have survived the arrival of the typewriter, the word processor and now the PC. People have written things down since time immemorial,” he says. “That will never change.”

Justin McCurry is Tokyo correspondent for The Guardian.

USEFUL WEB SITES [in Japanese only] Pen Boutique Shosaikan www.shosaikan.com

Eurobox www.euro-box.com

Right: Antique Namiki pens

Photo Courtesy Eurobox

Pilot Pen Station museum and café www.pilot.co.jp/museum.html

FASHION

fashion mishmash Water, Amish, plaids and stripes with a clash of riotous color and some Gothic touches was Japan Fashion Week.

By Nicole Fall

HEATH designed by Gentaro Noda

28 / Kaleidoscope

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

“Fashion, turn to the left. Fashion, turn to the right,” sang David Bowie, in his classic hit.

Fashion, a song that decades after its release still gets played at least once during the runway shows.

John Lawrence Sullivan

Bowie is a man who knows a thing or two about style—but quite what he would make of Japan Fashion Week’s ( JFW) biannual collections is another thing entirely. Would he think it was all a bit like “Life on Mars”?

Fortunately, Kaleidoscope’s fashionistas can help sort the wheat from the chaff, allowing you to pick next season’s key menswear looks from the hottest up-and-coming Japanese designers—ensuring your wardrobe is more “Heroes” than “Space Oddity.”

Leaving Bowie alone for a minute, the big menswear names that showed during JFW were Heath, designed by Gentaro Noda; Ato Matsumoto’s Ato brand; Eri Utsugi’s mercibeaucoup; and the singularly named Shin, who designs Garconshinois.

Forgoing the restraints of the tightly controlled JFW collections were the rebellious designers John Lawrence Sullivan, The ViridiAnne, N. Hoolywood, Soe and Lad Musician—who preferred to show their talents off-schedule in their own self-styled Menswear Collections.

Gentaro Noda debuted Heath last year and received wide accolades from the Japanese fashion press, so he had a lot to live up to in September at his second show. The English boarding school-educated Noda formerly had designed Iliad, a slightly quirky brand that borrowed heavily from his British-Japanese upbringing.

The grownup Heath label focuses on the more mature gentleman, perhaps a retired rocker who still likes to have a wild night out from time to time.

Classic white shirts and smart-casual black jackets were Noda’s standout pieces in a collection mainly sticking to a somber yet wearable palette that had little in the way of razzmatazz. This is not a criticism—in a season where Noda’s contemporaries threw out the rulebook on what tones coordinate and where basic concepts like “blue and green should never be seen” were not just ignored, but celebrated.

The Heath collection theme was “life underwater,” inspired by the beauty and intensity of the deep sea and the claustrophobic movie, The Abyss. Noda used colors that elicit the feeling of sinking deep into the ocean, utilizing natural fibers such as linen and cotton.

Also referencing water as a collection theme was Eri Utsugi, who is better known for her womenswear collections in her mercibeaucoup line. Utsugi sent men’s and women’s looks along the runway at the same time to mesmerizing effect. Mercibeaucoup’s riot of colors, prints and mismatching patterns are very Harajuku street style; and for those searching for bright leisurewear, this brand faithfully delivers. One key look was a fitted shirt decorated with childlike prints in blue and white, styled with high-waist sailor-style pants, and red and navy stripy-lined hoodies. A look, perhaps, best saved for the unique fashion gathering at Shibuya’s Yoyogi Park on a Sunday afternoon.

Hipsters searching for the next label to cross overseas should keep their eye on Ato, which made waves last year when rap artist Kanye West wore a pair of Ato sneakers in his Stronger video. Endorsements do not get better than that, so expect to see followers of the Ato brand donning fluorescent pieces, in what is known as the Nu-Rave style, in spring/summer 09. For the kind of man who loves to stand out at the party, check out Ato’s beautifully tailored cobalt blue suits featuring shorts instead of long pants—sure to be a crowd-pleaser among New York’s Hip Hop set.

“Bit of a mishmash,” pronounced Tokyo-based Scottish fashion critic Paul McInnes, on the runway show by three-seasons-old Garconshinois. Shin’s eclectic collection included plaid, stripes, lots of clashing color—and sometimes all three thrown together—in a range that could see even the most diehard fashion aficionados reaching for their sunglasses. Still, fashion is supposed to be fun, and Shin certainly provides some light in an otherwise dreary climate.

Kaleidoscope / 29

“I knew about the Amish, but didn’t understand the Amish religion. It wasn’t until after I had been to Pennsylvania that I got to know about their individual and unique culture”

N. Hoolywood designed by Daisuke Obana

Japanese fashion darlings adore the N. Hoolywood brand, which is designed by Daisuke Obana. For next year’s spring/summer seasons, Obana chose an Amish theme, not the most obvious of influences—but certainly distinctive, and enough to keep Obana’s legions of fashion-forward fans on their toes. According to Obana, he chose the Amish community as his inspiration after a trip to the American Folk Museum in New York about five years ago, which featured a special exhibition on quilts.

“I knew about the Amish, but didn’t understand the Amish religion.

It wasn’t until after I had been to Pennsylvania that I got to know about their individual and unique culture,” explains Obana on his indepth visit to one of America’s most intriguing communities.

When asked how the Amish had treated one of Japan’s hottest designers, Obana replies: “They didn’t really interact with me. The Amish don’t like to be photographed, so I tried to burn the images of their lives into my memory.”

One of the most outstanding shows of the season, according to the fashion cognoscenti, was the Japanese brand John Lawrence Sullivan, named after the professional boxer. This collection is designed by Arashi Yanagawa, who was a professional boxer for four years before he threw his hat into the ring to start up his own brand in 2003.

Success has followed quickly for Yanagawa, who debuted his collection at JFW last year and then launched his flagship store in Nakameguro in February. Gothic and pale-looking models were decked out in thin neck scarves and corset-style waistcoats, wrapped tight to accentuate wafer-thin torsos. Lightweight cardigans and one-button suits were paired with screaming red patent shoes that injected a shot of blue blood into the collection. The aristocratic feel continued with a color palette that included purple, blue and paisley print, which was used on short pants.

It is said that fashion follows the economy—waxing and waning as fortunes rise and fall. In these turbulent economic times, it’s refreshing to know fashion provides some color amid so much uncertainty.

Nicole Fall is a freelance fashion writer based in Tokyo.

BEAUTY

for love or money

Marrying later with no job for life, expressive Japanese men are buying beauty products to boost their love life and career, while baby boomers celebrate freedom with a fresh look. By Tony McNicol Kaleidoscope / 31

Men’s boutique Quomist has everything the appearance-conscious man in Tokyo needs. Based in the trendy Yurakucho Marui department store, the fourth-floor shop stocks a wide range of cosmetics and personal grooming products, and is popular with men in their twenties and thirties.

The range of John Masters Organics products is particularly a hit, says staff member Tsutomu Yamasaki, who is 38 but could easily pass for 25. He points to a ¥2,730 blood orange and vanilla body wash.

Another hot seller is a set of products by Skinn, packaged in sleek black and sky blue.

“The eye cream is popular with older customers. It is good for wrinkles and the bags under your eyes,” says Yamasaki. “Most men don’t want to wait long for an effect, and this product works quickly.”

Japanese men are paying more attention to their appearance than in the past, according to Kaori Sutani, a spokeswoman for men’s cosmetics-maker Mandom. The company has two separate ranges— Gatsby for younger men and Lucido for the older generation.

“Before, young men would look after their appearance; but once they entered a company or got married, they stopped,” she explains.

“These days, men are getting married later, so they need to look after themselves longer.”

A number of customers who favor Gatsby are significantly older than the actual primary target range, Sutani points out. They started using the products some years ago, and have maintained brand loyalty into middle-age.

The growth in men’s cosmetics is a symptom of other changes in Japan as well, Sutani believes. Not long ago, for example, a sober suit and staid haircut was, for any salaryman, a sine qua non. Today, for the IT crowd, cool biz is ubiquitous in summer and smart casual de rigor.

With the opportunity to show more individuality, men are paying greater attention to their appearance. The job-for-life is long gone, as we know; and so, along with impressing clients, coworkers or their boss, men also need to make the right impression on potential employers. Even Japan’s newly retiring baby boomers are taking a fresh look at their appearance. Now free from company rules and norms, many of this generation have, for the first time in their life, a chance to grow a beard—quickly sprouting carefully cultivated bristles and splurging on shaving products.

In response, beauty salons for men also have popped up around the capital—albeit under slightly more masculine monikers. One is the Isetan Men’s Day Spa in Shinjuku, opened in September 2007 and popular with businessmen in their twenties and thirties. Many relax at the spa while their wives are shopping in the department store. Retailweary husbands can choose among a body, foot and head spa, to skincare and reflexology. Skincare products, shampoos and fragrances can be purchased.

32 / Kaleidoscope

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 08

At Quomist, there are a few unique items for men who want to take their personal grooming to the next level. A range of high-tech deodorant undershirts are made from cloth impregnated with a special deodorant chemical. Originally designed for mountaineers and people who can’t wash regularly, they have proved popular with salarymen during the Japanese humid summer. Another product, the Tex Mex “slim mouthpiece,” might best be described as facial weight training. Users fit the spring-loaded device in their mouth and pout energetically to firm up their jaw line. Quomist sells a range of skimpy fake mustaches and beards—perfect for men who want temporary facial hair for the weekends or after-work parties.

The men’s cosmetics market in Japan started to expand rapidly sometime around the year 2000, according to Shigesato Kobayashi, a spokesman for leading cosmetics company Shiseido. While the overall market has since settled down, sales of products for more mature men are still on the rise. To meet such demand, Shiseido launched in 2004 a prestige total-care brand called Shiseido Men, for customers in their mid-thirties to sixties.

Yet, despite the growing popularity of men’s cosmetics, much work has yet to be done, stresses Shiseido’s Kobayashi. “It is not money or earnings which will change the market,” he says. “It is mind and attitude which affects the market.”

Shiseido holds special beauty seminars where basic information about cosmetics and skincare are offered to men.

Quomist’s Yamasaki is often approached about how to start a skincare and grooming program.

“We talk to customers about their concerns, their skin type and budget,” he says. “It only takes 10 to 20 minutes a day to use a face scrub, apply moisturizing liquid and cream.”

About ¥10,000-worth of products will last a month or two. If customers want more, they can buy specialized products for a particular area of concern.

“But it’s important to keep up the program,” stresses Yamasaki.

“If you stop halfway through, you will lose the effect you have built up.”

Tony McNicol is a freelance writer and photographer based in Tokyo.

Top: QUOMIST Shop in Yurakucho Marui Bottom from left: Art of Shaving, Gatsby, LUCIDO from Mandom

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