kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008

Argentine adventure

J-Pop in California

Koh Samui detox

Cigar bars

Anti-aging diet

Indulgent skincare

contents

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008 – Volume 4, Issue 5

A look into life’s dazzling diversity

DESTINATIONS

HEALTH

ARGENTINE SUBLIME 6

OH, NO. IT’S METABO! 11

TROPICAL DETOX 14

By Jeffrey Tanenhaus

By Julian Ryall

By Nicole Fall

With throbbing nightlife and rustic wonders, this amazingly diverse land is enticing visitors hungry for culture and nature.

It happens to the best of us, so here’s how to shrink that middle-age girth and lengthen your life span.

You don’t have to leave the kids at home when relaxing at this luxury Thai heath retreat with special care for active offspring.

TRENDS

BEAUTY

ART AND CULTURE

SMOKERS WELCOME 17

INDULGENT INGREDIENTS 21

JAPANTOWN GOES J-POP 27

By Michael McCarthy

By Karryn Miller

By Tony McNicol

Tokyo cigar bars are blowing off the antitobacco lobby with civilized spots for connoisseurs to enjoy a leisurely puff.

In a vain quest for long-lasting beauty, luxury skincare labels now add investment-grade materials to deter those wrinkles.

Times are changing in the oldest Japanese community in the U.S., as contemporary J-pop culture replaces traditional origins.

LUXURY DRIVING

DINING

STYLE

KING OF CUBIC INCHES 28

FOOD FOR YOUTH 31

INVITATION ONLY 36

By Jeroen Booij

By Dr. Aimee Weinstein

By Nicole Fall

European quality with race track performance and superb value—that’s what you get from the latest Corvette.

Eating well to look young makes sense, but now anti-aging menus are catching on at a number of local restaurants.

Tokyo’s elite stores spoil selected ultrahigh-net-worth shoppers to make them feel special—and spend more.

REGULARS FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK 3 CHOICE CHOICES 4 hand crafted furniture moving the easy way a bank taht values you and fives you the attention deserve adopt a pet

Published by: Paradigm, Kamiyama Ambassador 209, 18-6 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0047, Japan. Tel: (03) 5478-7941, Fax: (03) 5478-7942, E-mail: inquiries@paradigm.co.jp Publisher: Vickie Paradise Green | Editor-in-Chief: Simon Farrell | Editor: David Umeda | Creative Director: Richard Grehan | Art Director: Akiko Mineshima Editorial Researcher: Francesca Penazzi | Advertising Sales: Eileen Chang, Melissa Daines, Sarit Huys, Leai Kubotsuka

Kaleidoscope / 1

FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

busman’s holiday Ideas for Kaleidoscope features come from many sources for a balanced and varied read that follows trends, events, people and places. Naturally, writers are well tuned to news and information, but in-house editors and salespeople, and the communications industry also feed Kaleidoscope a steady flow of original thought.

For this issue, however, the diplomatic corps called, with the Argentine Ambassador Daniel D. Polski inviting me to discuss his Republic’s many vibrant and natural wonders. We just happened to have a writer in Buenos Aries happy to oblige. As you’ll see on page 6, there can be few countries with such splendid variety and color.

Often, the best pitches are those generated by writers’ personal lifestyle choices, passions and experiences, unrelated to their regular beat. One busy mum planned a rigid detox in Thailand, so this regular Kaleidoscope contributor took her kids on a working holiday for us (page 16). Alarmed by the government’s “Metabo syndrome” campaign to fight flab, another journalist documented his progress—or lack of it—as he took professional advice and

tested some products over several weeks to ease the onslaught of the inevitable (page 13).

Finding a smoker at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan wasn’t too difficult, and he was well rewarded with some of the finest tobacco in the world at Tokyo’s newest and best cigar bars (page 19).

Some ideas get binned, or improve with age. But this issue is testament to how a writer’s life can be a busman’s holiday.

Simon Farrell Editor-in-Chief simonfarrell@paradigm.co.jp

Kaleidoscope / 3

CHOICE CHOICES

hand crafted furniture AREA Tokyo’s unique products are custom made and hand crafted in Japan by highly skilled artisans using mainly natural materials to make high-quality furniture that helps create a great atmosphere and saves valuable space. We deal in sofas, beds, tables, chairs, TV cabinets, shelves, custom storage wall and any other furniture, and our experienced designers are ready to serve you and answer any questions at our showroom conveniently located in Aoyama.

TEL: 03-3479-5553 FAX:03-3479-5554 2-10-18 1F Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo www.area-japan.co.jp E-mail/mail@area-japan.co.jp

moving the easy way Moving can create all manner of expectations. But it’s the best Asian Service that we admire. The politeness, the manner in which people respond to your needs and anticipate requirements, the caring attitude and the accompanying comfort are, for us, the most important.

Combine this with a decisive, action-oriented team that allows you the freedom to make decisions and plan your move as you wish. All focused on you, so that you can have a better experience wherever in the world you choose to go.

At a recent celebration honoring the company’s 10th Anniversary in Japan, Managing Director Nick Masee said, “After ten years of hard work by a very dedicated and talented team of professionals supporting all of our activities and competing head to head with long-established competitors, we are the market leader here in Tokyo.”

Our team members are masters at keeping everything under control. Asian Tigers Premier Worldwide Movers can offer you service in English, Japanese, French, German, Italian, Chinese and Dutch in order to understand perfectly all your needs.

We are able to offer you full services for all your family members by providing special attention and care for your children and your pets. Through our own Asian Tiger network and our coownership of OMNI network, we can take care of any move, to any destination in the world.

4 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

Contact us today for a no obligation estimate.

Call 03-6402-2371, email sales@asiantigers-japan.com or visit our Web site at www.asaintigers-japan.com

a bank that values you and gives you the attention you deserve You worked hard to get to where you are, but does your bank give you individual attention that recognizes your special status? At HSBC Premier, we have specially designed a new banking experience that offers you exclusive services, privileges and rewards that recognize you as our valued customer. You can also leverage our global knowledge and expertise to explore and seize a wealth of global opportunities As part of our globally linked up banking service, you can view all your account globally with one click through the internet banking site. You can also enjoy fee-free worldwide remittance between HSBC Accounts.

At HSBC premier we have relationship managers originating from overseas countries: US, UK, France, Canada, Hong Kong, China, India and Russia.

We are certain you will discover that by banking with us, you’ve made the perfect choice.

adopt a pet

Please visit our next Tokyo Adoption Event: October 25 1:00pm - 4:00pm

ARK News: We recently became Japan’s first Associate member of the RSPCA, the world’s most respected animal welfare organization.“This allows ARK to seek advice, training, campaign support and financial assistance,” ARK spokesperson Briar Simpson told Kaleidoscope.

ARK has found a 7,000-tsubo (5.5-acre) property and drawn plans for a new sanctuary in Shitsugawa, Sasayama, Hyogo Prefecture. “It means we will help more homeless animals, and is a major step forward in the development of animal welfare in Japan,” says Simpson. “We will build a facility with reception, offices, clinic, isolation unit, rooms for up to 150 dogs and 150 cats, ‘special needs’ section, training center and much more,” says Simpson.

Dog Sign Yamaguchi Bldg 1F 2-9-3 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0062 Tel: 03-5848-3400 www.dogsign.jp

Donations to our Sanctuary Fund are most welcome: Post Office account # 00970-9-58799 www.arkbark.net E-mail: tokyoark@arkbark.net Tel: 080-6146-3889 (English)

You can adopt or sponsor a dog, cat or other pet from ARK, an NPO since 1999. All our adopted animals are strays or have been abandoned; some have been ill-treated.

Some people choose to sponsor a pet with little chance of finding a good home because of age, disability, special care, abuse, or it’s scared of people.

Paul male Age: 5 years old / Duchshund Breed: Miniature

Katie Age: 2 and a half months old / Female Breed: Mix

Petrel e Age: 3 month old / mal Breed: mix

Yujin & Chunsan d rs and sisters an They ’re brothe y! pla to e lov reall y

Kaleidoscope / 5

DEstinations

ARGENTINE

Text and Photos by Jeffrey Tanenhaus

sublime

A winning combination of urban sophistication and rural beauty makes Argentina arguably South America’s most enticing destination.

F

ew other nations can boast as compelling a contrast as Argentina. Dramatic natural wonders shine in the corners of the eighth-largest country. Salt flats, cactus preserves and painted mountains define the deserted northwest.

Massive waterfalls roar in the sub-tropical northeast. Awardwinning vineyards flourish near the Andes Mountains center-west, while glaciers and penguins populate Patagonia’s extreme south (remember we’re below the equator).

The pulsating capital unites the nation’s far-flung attractions with cultural and culinary delights of its own. Walk off the jet lag through the moneyed neighborhoods of Retiro and Recoleta.

The palaces with mansard roofs surrounding leafy Plaza San Martín earned Buenos Aires the nickname, Paris of the South.

Old World opulence remains in Recoleta, along Avenue Alvear lined with palatial embassies and high-end shops, which lead to

one of the most elaborate burial grounds on the face of the earth.

The chiseled mausoleums of Recoleta Cemetery entomb the nation’s most prominent historic figures, including populist First Lady Eva “Evita” Peron.

Shopping offers one of the great pleasures of Buenos Aires, and there’s plenty to purchase, thanks to the favorable exchange rate. Leather goods are of exceptional quality, and tourist-friendly Florida Street in Retiro can’t be beat for the selection at hand.

For the whirlwind traveler, fight fatigue by refueling at cozy European-styled cafes. A creamy banana milkshake with a toasted ham and cheese sandwich was my choice for a lateafternoon boost.

The Argentinian sweet tooth demands bakeries and ice cream parlors at frequent intervals; do like the locals and don’t fight the temptation.

sea lions sunning on rocky isla nds.

Argentin

o. ian Tang

Argentine

“Argentine nights are as long as they are festive; serious clubbers don’t queue before 2 a.m.”

As night falls, the cobblestone streets of Palermo Viejo and Las Cañitas begin to buzz. The array of gourmet restaurants and trendy bars spoils tourists for choice. Menus reflect the carnivorous appetite of a people who consume about 75kg of red meat a year, the most in the world. Premium cuts are ojo de bife (rib eye) and the leaner lomo (tenderloin). Porteños, as capital city dwellers are called, like their meat cooked to a crisp; request jugoso (pronounced, “hu-go-so”) if you prefer medium-rare. Red Malbec wines from western Mendoza province make the perfect accompaniment.

Dining al fresco is one of summer’s pleasures, but sitting down before 9 p.m. is considered a late lunch for locals. For earlier entertainment, though, a dinner tango show should top the agenda.

Argentina’s signature dance—with its passionate, yet controlled leg thrusts—has inspired a niche industry catering to the tango tourist.

Soccer is another cultural phenomenon that blurs the line between sports and religion. The rivalry between the Boca Juniors and River Plate divides families and strains friendships. For a more refined spectator experience, the Argentine Polo Open Championship this November 15 to December 6 is the most renowned tournament in polo.

While a week could be well spent exploring Buenos Aires, there’s no substitute for following nature’s lure to the far corners of 8 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

Argentina. The picturesque colonial streets of Salta, a two-hour flight northwest, share a culture and cuisine more in line with nearby Bolivia. Regional food is simple, yet hearty—a highlight best enjoyed at a lively peña, a folk music club.

A typical meal starts with empanadas, baked or fried dough pockets stuffed with meat or cheese; or a humita of mashed sweet corn boiled in its own husk. A locro stew with corn, pumpkin and meat, served in a ceramic casserole, pairs nicely with a bottle of smooth Salta beer. Goat baked in an adobe oven is also a specialty, being that cattle-raising is less suitable at the drier, higher altitudes.

“Salta the beautiful” aptly describes the stunning scenery within a day’s drive. Before leaving town, though, don’t miss the mummy museum—where three Incan children sacrificed on an icy mountaintop 500 years ago are near perfectly preserved.

First-class tour operators like MoviTrack can steer you through the vivid terrain surrounding Salta. A route paralleling the “train to the clouds” begins in a lush valley, before climbing to 3,775m (12,385ft) through arid landscapes studded with tall cacti.

The nearby salt flats are so blindingly white that a double pair of sunglasses seems necessary. Perhaps the most picturesque is the Hill of Seven Colors, a geologic rainbow rising above Purmamarca Village.

Best of Buenos Aires HOTELS:

Alvear Palace Hotel • www.alvearpalace.com Sofitel Buenos Aires • www.sofitelbuenosaires.com.ar STEAKHOUSES: Cabaña las Lilas • www.laslilas.com La Cabrera • www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar BARS: Casa Cruz • www.casa-cruz.com Gran Bar Danzón • www.granbardanzon.com.ar TANGO SHOWS: La Esquina Carlos Gardel • www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar Piazzolla Tango • www.piazzollatango.com LEATHER SHOPPING:

Florida Street stores Galerías Pacífico Mall • www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar

Argentina may be famous for its red wine, but south of Salta grow the prized white Torrontés grapes. The road to boutique wineries in Cafayate winds through a tree-carpeted river valley of eroding mountainsides tinted red from iron oxidation. Wine is Cafayate’s cottage industry; even the ice cream parlor scoops Cabernet- and Torrontés-infused sorbets.

In the geographic cone of South America lies the fabled land of Patagonia. The grim reality of global warming has ice tourism booming. Los Glaciares National Park, near the town of El Calafate, is a World Heritage Site, covering 6,000 square kilometers (2,316 square miles). You can marvel at mountainous glaciers while boating across Lake Argentina, the country’s largest.

A panorama of sculptural icebergs floating in turquoise water is sure to stir the senses.

Although not the largest, Perito Moreno is the park’s glacial celebrity, and one of the few on the planet still advancing. With a snout almost 5km (3mi) long and 60m (197ft) high, even the small chunks of ice calve into the water with a thunderous splash.

At the tip of Patagonia clings Ushuaia, the globe’s southernmost city—and a former penal colony fittingly billed as “the end of the world.” Nature asserts its dominance with snowcapped mountains confining settlement to along the water. The port is the last stop for cruises sailing to Antarctica. Shorter boat rides in the Beagle Channel pass penguins, cormorants and sea lions sunning on rocky islands.

Back on land, Tierra del Fuego National Park offers gentle hikes along the coast, up to the border with Chile.

After being immersed in Nature, why not set your sights on fresh centolla (king crab) for dinner? Tender meat from this regal crustacean with its long spiny legs reigns supreme among Patagonia’s delicacies.

Savory regional dishes, an acclaimed wine industry and a weak peso make Argentina’s riches deliciously affordable.

Jeffrey Tanenhaus is a freelance writer and photographer based in Buenos Aires.

Daniel D. Polski, Ambassador of the Republic of Argentina, spoke proudly to Kaleidoscope of his country’s many attractions that are luring an increasing number of visitors, such as the treasures, traditions, shopping and entertainment of elegant, cosmopolitan Buenos Aires—UNESCO’s City of Design—and a number of famous World Heritage Sites, towering mountains and crystal-clear lakes.

“Wine tourism is proving as strong as ever. Under the guidance of specialists, visitors to the vineyards in Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, Río Negro and Salta, can tour around from big to boutique wineries, while learning the secrets of wine production.”

He also spoke of Argentina’s quality service, regional cuisines, competitive prices, and cultural attractions such as tango and colonial architecture that have driven Argentina’s boom as a tourist destination for Japanese and other travelers. www.turismo.gov.ar

Kaleidoscope / 9

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CONTACTS: Andrew Olea, Sandra Van Gessel-Yoda > Malaysia (French service) Asian Tigers Premier Worldwide Movers Co.,Ltd. 6th Floor, Nakata Mac Toranomon Building 1-1-10 Atago, Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0002, Japan Phone: (81-3) 6402 2371 Fax: (81-3) 6402 2305 sales@asiantigers-japan.com www.asiantigers-japan.com

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i St

iS nis

The Westin HOTEL

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Yebisu Garden Place

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Yebisu Sky walk

Ga

JR Ebisu St. > Cambodia

Meij

health

Oh, no

it’s

By Julian Ryall

METABO! 80

90 MALE HEALTHY LIMIT

Getting in shape seems always something that will happen “tomorrow.” There are, after all, never enough hours in the day to fit in a trip to the gym—and there is always another bar to go to, always one more dinner party with just one more enticing slice of cake.

Cut out refined carbs Swap beer for spirits Eat natural food

FEMALE HEALTHY LIMIT

There are just too many “reasonable” excuses not to follow through with that vow to shed a few kilograms before that next trip to the beach, or to get into those jeans that are just a bit too tight now.

Even Japan—a country not previously denoted as having an overweight population—introduced an ambitious campaign to slim down the public. Alarmed at the increasing number of ailments linked to “metabo” (the catchword for metabolic syndrome), the government set the “healthy” limit for male waistlines at 85cm (33.5in) and women at 90cm (35.4in). Anyone stretching their belts beyond the prescribed limits would be required to undergo ominous-sounding re-education regimes.

Like with any adjustment, the longer we put off dealing with an issue, the tougher it is when it absolutely has to be faced. Anyone who was a couple of kilos on the heavy side a few years ago is likely to carry a lot more kilos in that direction today.

Getting fit—and, subsequently, staying in shape—does not need to be all about blood, sweat and tears, however, and should ideally be fun, according to fitness experts.

Kaleidoscope / 11

60

70

THE PERSONAL TRAINER

THE GYM

Jake Helm’s father represented the British Army in athletics and rugby, so it is not surprising that Jake ended up making a career of physical education. With a degree in sports and exercise from the University of London, Jake has been a self-employed physical trainer since 2003, moving to Japan earlier this year.

“My business in Tokyo ranges from young to old. I work out of a gym in Shinjuku, the National Gymnasium in Sendagaya, and I coach children at Tokyo International School,” he says. “Some clients are lucky enough to have gym facilities in their houses or apartments, so we make full use of them.”Around 65% of his clients are female, while the men are in high-powered corporate positions—and are “eager to train hard,” Jake says.

He is a firm believer in combining exercise with nutrition to maintain a healthy lifestyle.

“As we all know, Tokyo is a very convenient city—you are able to get most foods from the endless newsagents or vending machines,” he says. “So, for 40-year-old office workers, I would lecture them about their eating habits even before they change into their sports gear!”

Jake advises fresh and natural foods, cutting out “refined carbs” such as white bread, and swapping beer for spirits, such as gin and tonic.

“Combined with a minimum of three hours of intense exercise, this will guarantee results,” he says. “What I mean by intense exercise isn’t just walking to work, stretching in the morning, or a casual bike ride on weekends.

“It’s much more than that. I want you to sweat for three hours a week. Break it up as you wish, but normally I encourage between 45 and 60 minutes intense exercise Monday, Wednesday and Friday,” Jake says. “And then on ‘rest days,’ light exercise, such as yoga, stretching or swimming.”

And what’s the best thing about having a personal trainer?

“It is the knowledge that a trained professional is at your side talking, walking and guiding you through your exercises, with the sole goal of achieving what you want,” he says. “Everybody needs a personal trainer in order to gain the results quickly, safely, effectively—and in an enjoyable manner.”

Jake Helm can be contacted at Jakehelmspt@hotmail.co.uk

Tipness has 27 studios across Tokyo, and has signed up around 20 million people across the country. Nearly all the locations have pools, as well as gym and studios. A typical gym contains treadmills, cycling machines, step-trainers, cross trainers and an array of free weights.

A spokesman for Tipness says most people join up in order to lose weight and remain healthy—and are initially attracted because staff are constantly on hand with advice for the relative beginner.

Many branches hold classes in yoga, kickboxing and circuit training, as well as aqua aerobics, and a spell in a sauna.

Tipness is open from 7 a.m. until 11 p.m. on weekdays, and has a wide range of options for using the facilities, with a regular membership running ¥11,550 per month.

Tipness Shibuya 03-3770-3531 www.tipness.co.jp

80

90

GET FIT AT HOME

THE DIET

Since first hitting the store shelves, Nintendo’s Wii Fit has become a global phenomenon. It makes getting in shape fun through entertaining onscreen scenarios and competing with the rest of the family—as well as letting you do it in the privacy of your own living room.

Players control their character on the TV screen as it takes part in more than 40 activities and exercises in four main categories: strength training, aerobics, yoga and balancing games. The more you do, the better you get; and the Body Mass Index, which is part of the initial step, should slowly but surely decline.

Strength training entails everything from torso twists to pushups, tricep extensions and single-leg extensions, to rowing squats and the jackknife. The yoga challenges are designed to improve balance and flexibility by adopting typical poses, such as the halfmoon, sun salutation and the downward-facing dog.

The aerobics workouts tap such disciplines as rhythm boxing and hula hoops, while the balancing games—the ski slalom, tightrope walk or the penguin slide—are designed to be fun at the same time as being physically challenging.

Easy-to-understand graphs let you keep track of your progress on a daily basis and enable users to set fitness targets—and with up to eight members of the family able to compare profiles, there’s always a “healthy” element of competition involved.

All the exercise in the world is unlikely to give any of us those perfectly sculpted abs or toned thighs unless we maintain a balance between the body and mind, according to Lucie Mori, an expert in holistic medicine and health management. A key part of achieving such harmony, she says, is by managing our body weight.

“I offer an active relaxation program for weight management that contains Eastern concepts of body and mind balance,” she says. “For people who primarily want to lose weight, I give individual recommendations on an Ayurvedic diet, the use of herbs, Qigong exercises, hand gestures and lifestyle tips.”

The diet is heavy on healthy adzuki beans, black soybeans, chickpeas and green peas.

Some people are more susceptible to weight gain, she says, even if they do not eat or drink a great deal. These people have a greater emotional side to their character and tend to internalize their feelings, which slows the metabolism and leads to the kilos piling up. At the same time as avoiding oily foods and pursuing regular exercise, such as aerobics, Lucie recommends catering to your emotional needs by improving self-image, interpersonal skills, and those broader lifestyle issues.

“If we can work on all these areas, then gradually a person can find his or her balance,” she says, “And they will lose weight naturally.”

Contact Lucie at her Venus Blossom: www.venusblossom.net

Lucie Mori

t Wii Fi

NO EXCUSE And even for those of us who are not able to commit to any of these experts’ regimes, there are small changes that we can make in our everyday lives that have an impact on our physical wellbeing. Cycle to work instead of taking the train—The Sport Authority has a Ferrari CX-60 bicycle for ¥358,000—or test drive the Slender Shaper, as seen on the shopping channels here for ¥13,800. And for those of us for whom the lifestyle change will always be “tomorrow,” Kirin and Suntory have a new beer called “Zero” and “Zero Nama” (no sugar), respectively.

Julian Ryall is Tokyo correspondent for The Daily Telegraph.

health

tropical

detox

By Nicole Fall

I looked down at my thighs, pale and jiggly, and then back at my face, which had taken on a sickly pallor. The dark circles under my eyes belied too many nights out boozing and spent working late with my head in my laptop, absorbing radioactive rays, or whatever it is that seeps out of computers and turns us blue. Yep, I decided, I was long overdue for a detox.

Photos courtesy Four Seasons Resort, Ko Samui

Having undertaken a few detoxification programs in the past, I knew what I was looking for out of a cleanse—and this time I had the darlings with me, so I needed a place that also would offer childcare. Hours of Googling “Kids Club + Detox,” and eventually the Four Seasons Resort in Ko Samui, Thailand, popped up. My jaw dropped at the prices. “How much are they charging me not to eat?” I silently complained.

My last detox was in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, and was the full-on variety. It included colonics and other bizarre rituals designed to expel every possible toxin—and anything lurking in my tummy that was actually good, as well. The downside to the experience was the emancipated hippies and food obsessives also staying at the retreat, talking about their bowel movements at every possible opportunity. I decided to blow the kids’ inheritance and stay in luxury, and follow the Four Seasons’ program that was colonicfree—and, assuming from its price, hippy-free, too.

Upon making a reservation, I was sent a highly detailed health form asking questions about my lifestyle and a spreadsheet that covered three pages containing my weeklong detox schedule. My head ached from just looking at the information. Fortunately, at the Four Seasons, as I later learned, you really don’t need to think.

Intuitive staff make all the tough decisions for you, leaving you more time to decompress.

After I had settled in at my villa with its private plunge pool, my program kicked off in earnest.

A golf buggy—the resort’s ubiquitous transport—arrived to take the darlings to the kids’ club. They gleefully jumped in, barely acknowledging me as they ran into the arms of the smiling club staff.

Minutes later, my first day’s breakfast arrived—a plate of avocado, papaya and fig salad. The detox kick-started gently on the first day with raw food only.

The Four Seasons Ko Samui resort clings to the side of a palmtree-covered hill, and the entire property is situated on a steep gradient that eventually gives way to a private beach with views of neighboring isle Ko Phangan across the aquamarine channel.

This means secluded villas, just the ticket when you are not eating “regular” food and so crave privacy.

In-between meals, my schedule included 90 minutes of yoga in the afternoon and an earlier daily visit to the spa for a detox-type treatment in the morning. Separating these sessions, I was supposed to undertake two 30-minute sets of cardio-exercise, which I wisely decided to ignore and use the time instead to work on my tan. Hey, no point going all the way to Thailand and not come back with at least a hint of color, I thought.

Breakfas

t in para dise

Room with spectacular view

After breakfast, a buggy arrived for me. “Sawaadi Kah, Ms. Fall; time to take you to the spa for your treatment,” announced the driver as he handed me a cold towel to dab off any sweat that might accumulate during the two-minute uphill commute.

In the high-ceilinged, cream-colored treatment rooms, a diminutive therapist explained that my first spa experience was to be a traditional Thai massage. For anyone who has experienced this before, you will know the therapy is two parts “aaaaahhhh,” one part “arrrggghh.”

After a raw lunch, I rested prior to another buggy taking me to a sala, with sea views, for my yoga session. A serene British woman called Lorraine explained the virtues of daily practice while I wriggled around trying to stop my legs from falling asleep in their uncomfortable cross-legged pose. After sun salutations, I was driven back to my villa for a meal, a clear consommé of vegetable broth. It was tasty, but I missed the bread.

My kids arrived back, clutching seashell necklaces, finger paintings, and talking nine to the dozen about their fun day. I ordered their dinner from the children’s menu and had to stop myself from snatching the mini burger my son decided he was full of, two bites in. Strange, since the last time I ate meat was 15 years ago.

Day two to the penultimate day of my cleanse was spent drinking blended fresh fruit juices and vegetable drinks, washed down with supplements designed to enhance the detox experience and replace any good bacteria that may have been washed away with the juice.

Every evening involved broth, a routine that started out as pleasant, then became tedious as I thought of all the people at the resort quaffing cocktails as the sun set.

My final day was back to raw foods. I put on my bikini to do my final workout, hit the beach, and, to my surprise, it was loose on my hips.

I checked the mirror to see what else was new. My eyes sparkled and my skin was glowing. Better still, I no longer had the urge to steal my kids’ carb-loaded dinners when they weren’t looking.

A new me? Maybe not, but most definitely a slightly improved version.

Four Seasons Resort, Ko Samui

www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui/spa/ Puriti Purification Program prices star t from 265,000 yen for seven days, excluding accommodations.

Relaxing soak

Sundowne

r spot

Kaleidoscope / 15

trends

Smokers

WELCOME

By Michael McCarthy

The well-documented health risks associated with smoking have made the world a less forgiving place for those who prefer to view it through the sweet fug of tobacco smoke. But if Tokyo’s bars and restaurants no longer give cigarette smokers carte blanche to indulge their habit, these are happier times for those who prefer a leisurely pull on a Montecristo No. 2, to a few frantic drags on a Mild Seven.

Kaleidoscope / 17

W

hile cigarette sales in Japan continue to decline, cigar imports, though modest by comparison, are creeping up. In 2007 Japan imported 137.4 tons of cigars, compared with 79.8 tons in 2000 and just 31.7 tons in 1995, according to Finance Ministry data.

Cigar smoking, once regarded as the preserve of gangsters and wealthy businessmen, is establishing itself belatedly among younger Tokyoites wishing to savor a little of the flavor—and atmosphere—of old Havana. Whether the object of their desires is a slim Panatela or a chunky Corona, residents here can now find what they are looking for in the several cigar bars and specialist tobacconists to have opened over the past decade or so.

One of the stalwarts of the Tokyo cigar scene is Le Connaisseur, a chain cigar bar-cum-shop that opened its first outlet here in 1997. After a successful trial run in the upmarket district of Ginza, Le Connaisseur has since opened two more establishments, in Roppongi and Shibuya.

Ginza flagship bar takes its aesthetic cue from the traditional haunts of cigar smokers in Europe’s big cities. The interior is all leather sofas, dim lighting, bow-tied waiters and waitresses— and, most important of all, a huge selection of the finest imported hand-rolled cigars.

The humidor, located just inside the entrance, stocks more than 120 varieties of cigar, mainly from Cuba, ranging in price from just under ¥1,000 to more than ¥5,000 each.

The bar, which serves a selection of drinks and specially selected side dishes, is equipped with all the paraphernalia required by the cigar smoker, from cutters to lop off one end of the cigar so it’s ready to light, to tailored ashtrays and strips of wood for relighting.

The clientele of Le Connaisseur has expanded since the early days, when most were middle-aged men eager to sequester

themselves with a cigar in agreeable surroundings.

Though female cigar smokers are still a rarity in Japan, the demographic has expanded to include younger men, and occasional couples.

Beginners who prefer the communal cigar experience could do worse than spend an evening at Cohiba Atmosphere, a welcoming Cuban-themed bar along Kotto-dori, in MinamiAoyama. Most nights the bar fills up with a mixture of the Omotesando trendy set and groups of salarymen, drawn by the promise of a cocktail and a decent cigar for as little as ¥1,900. As its name suggests, all of the cigars at Cohiba Atmosphere are from Cuba—though not all belong to the Cohiba range—and are priced between about ¥800-4,000.

Among the most popular is the Cohiba Siglo 1, at ¥1,500 apiece, along with Montecristo No.4, according to Cohiba Atmosphere’s Koji Hirayu. For customers on a budget, he recommends a Hoyo de Monterrey Petit Robusto, accompanied by a frothy cappuccino.

Kei Inoue, a 39-year-old architect and regular at Cohiba Atmosphere, is fairly typical of the new breed of Japanese cigar smoker.

“I am usually very busy with work, so I come here on the few occasions when I have time for myself,” says Inoue, who smokes about three cigars a week, usually with coffee or a glass of chilled grappa when he’s not driving.

“Most Japanese seem to think that cigars always have to be luxury items, but I think that’s changing. They have that image because, in the past, there were so few places you could go to smoke and learn about what’s on offer,” Inoue says.

“They need a way to get into the scene and discover that, actually, you can have a perfectly good cigar for just a few hundred yen.”Tokyo’s specialist stores include the Cigar Club

Most Japanese seem to think that cigars always have to be luxury items, but I think that’s changing. They have that image because, in the past, there were so few places you could go to smoke and learn about what’s on offer.

Le Connaisseur, Ginza

18 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

(Azabudai), run by the major cigar importer Intercontinental Trading Corp., which opened for business in Minato Ward in 1992 and now has two other outlets, at The Westin Hotel Tokyo and Osaka.

ACANTA, located in the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel in Shibuya, also stocks a wide range of cigars and beautifully designed accessories. Friendly, English-speaking staff are on hand to advise on the right choice of cigar for novice and seasoned smokers alike.

Aficionados welcome Japan’s late conversion to cigar smoking, but say the market is being sustained by waves of part-time, rather than committed, smokers.

“The cigar culture we have in Europe doesn’t exist in Japan,” says Adrian Buehler, founder of cigarjapan.com. “Here, it is more like a hobby for young Japanese with money. They buy expensive lighters and ashtrays, they smoke cigars seriously for half a year and then move on to something else.”

Buehler, a 52-year-old Swiss expatriate who tried his first cigar at the age of 16, says that, for many years, cigars suffered from an image problem in Japan: “They were associated with the yakuza and with the powerful. [Former Prime Minister] Shigeru Yoshida, for example, was a hell of a cigar smoker.

“Now cigars are more associated with connoisseurs—people who know what’s good and don’t mind if it costs money. Like people who buy expensive olive oil or search for the right kind of salt, they just want the best.”

Buehler’s advice to the novice is simple: Go for a cigar that suits your budget. “You can buy handmade cigars for between ¥1,000 and ¥8,000, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you have to go for the most expensive one,” he says. “Something in the ¥2,000 range is ideal. I’d go for a fairly fat cigar—not a thin, short one which will probably be too harsh.”

His recommendation for the beginner on a budget: a Hoyo de Monterrey Petit Robusto and for those with more money to spend: Cohiba Maduro 5 Genios. “It has a medium to full body, with cocoa and earthy nuances,” Buehler says. “Smoke it as slowly as possible, even if you have to re-light the cigar a few times. The creamy taste of this smoke should make for a great entrance into the world of cigars.”

One of his favorite haunts is Nomura Tobacco, which stocks arguably the best selection of cigars in Tokyo. Located a short walk from Gotanda Station, the family-run business offers around 700 varieties of cigar from all over the world. Every major producer—Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Honduras— is represented here, as well as a few minor ones such as Brazil and Italy. After they have selected a cigar from the impressive humidor, customers are free to take a seat inside the store and savor their purchase with a cup of coffee.

“We get all sorts of people in here—salarymen, company presidents, civil servants. One of our regulars is a Buddhist priest,” says Nomura Tobacco’s Hiroshi Ishibashi.

Though little English is spoken at Nomura, word of its splendid selection apparently has spread among visiting U.S. businessmen who—trade embargo momentarily forgotten— come to marvel at the 200 or so varieties of Cuba’s bestknown export … and, perhaps, savor an illicit smoke.

Michael McCarthy is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Photos: Page 17 & 19 Top right/cigarjapan.com, Page 18/Le Connaisseur

Page 19 Left & Bottom right/Michael McCarthy

Cohiba Maduro 5 Ge

Nomura Tabacco.

We get all sorts of people in here— salarymen, company presidents, civil servants. One of our regulars is a Buddhist priest.

Nomura Tobacco’s humidor in Gotanda

A sele Tobaccction of cigar o’s walk s from N -in hum idor. omura

nios.

20 / Kaleidoscope Pull-out Section

beauty

Indulgent

By Karryn Miller

Ingredients Precious metals and stones are moving from jewelry stores to bathroom cabinets as Japan’s penchant for the good life continues to drive the prestige beauty industry forward.

Kaleidoscope Kaleidoscope Pull-out Section / 21

Japan Landscape ad FA.pdf

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2/1/08

9:25:49 AM

It’s no secret that the Japanese enjoy indulgence. They are the largest consumer of luxury goods in the world, something that a stroll past the numerous ladies with their designer bags quickly reveals. But this passion for extravagance goes deeper than just fashion, and their ardor has resulted in a booming industry of pricey skincare brands.

Globally, Japan led the way with pure gold facials in 2007—bringing the associated gold traits of wealth and style into the beauty salon and passing them on to clientele. In this treatment, gold leaf is applied to the face with the reported benefits of accelerating cell growth and removing wrinkles and blemishes. Some 30 Japanese salons incorporated the facial into their offering, charging ¥20,000 per a 1-2 hour session.

From beauty salon to beauty cabinet, people can bring their golden regime home with La Prairie’s cellular radiance concentrate pure gold (¥77,700 for 1.0 oz). The emulsion contains 24-karat gold particles, and is said to brighten the skin, and plump up lines and wrinkles. Of the La Prairie range in Japan, their collection with caviar essence is the most popular; and those eager to bring a touch of sushi to their beauty routine can buy the Skin Caviar Luxe Cream at ¥47,250 for a 1.7oz jar.

Caviar also has made its way into Ci:z Labo’s Celeb Champagne Gold Course. At ¥315,000 per two-hour session, pampering here is restricted to anniversaries and other special occasions. Clients start with a champagne bath where 22 bottles of Don Pierre are used, five to six of which are poured directly on top while the person sits in a blend of water and wine. After a 20-25 minute soak to detox the body, a skin-peeling massage is performed to whiten the skin, followed by a caviar facial.

Natura Bisse, a Spanish skincare brand to be released in Japan this September, has taken a lady’s passion for diamonds to the next level through introducing a Diamond Magnetic Peel beauty product. The metallic lotion combines wild lavender essential oil with diamond dust and micronized iron to create a luminous spread. The mixture then is rubbed onto the body, followed by a magnet being massaged over the skin to draw negative energy away, along with the iron.

Natura Bisse believes that—although unique—their concept is nothing new. Early magnetic therapy techniques and the ancient

Natura Bisse • www.naturabisse.es

art of gem therapy are cited as inspirations behind the product.

Diamonds were selected due to their natural affinity to a person’s energy—something that is often out of balance in modern times.

In Natura Bisse’s opinion, nurturing the body has always symbolized power, health and beauty. It’s therefore understandable (from their viewpoint) that the skincare specialist chose the 2007 Academy Awards in Hollywood as the location for the product’s premiere—reaching out with the treatment to the most elitist stars.

After Natura Bisse has established their product range here, the diamond magnetic peel will appear on Tokyo’s Isetan Shinjuku department store shelves in November (the retail price is yet to be determined as of this writing).

The Diamond Magnetic Peel and Nature Bisse’s entire diamond collection has fit snuggly into the growing prestige body-care segment. According to research by The NPD Group, a market research firm, the trend towards indulgence is becoming more noticeable across all beauty categories, including makeup, facial skincare and fragrance. A study of the U.S. beauty industry showed that, in 2004, sales of products over $150 (¥16,000) totaled slightly more than $600,000 (¥63 million)—taking a 0.3% share of the prestigious body-care market. In 2007, that figure skyrocketed to $4 million (¥422 billion)—representing 3.1% of that segment.

Japan holds the place of second-largest beauty market in the world, at a value of $13.9 million (¥1,499.2 billion) in 2006 (Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry). Besides in-store beauty, the country also has a thriving beauty salon business, with over 18,000 aesthetic salons throughout the nation.

As other sectors of the beauty market remain relatively flat, prestige products look set to gain more market share, and we can expect to see more innovative slants to potions and creams hitting the shelves.

Karryn Miller is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

La Prairie • www.laprairie.com

Ci:z Labo • www.ci-z.com

Kaleidoscope / 23

art and culture

JAPAN TOWN

goes J-P　P

By Tony McNicol PHOTOS BY MATTIAS WESTFALK

It certainly looks like Japan. There are sushi restaurants, a hair salon offering haircuts that wouldn’t look out of place in Harajuku, purikura sticker machines, a takoyaki stall. Also, a large bookshop has all the latest Japanese magazines and an entire floor devoted to manga.

There is even a shop with Hello Kitty goods and a selection of the most technologically advanced toilets the land of the washlet has to offer.

24 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

San Francisco Taiko dojo performance

Mari Watanabe (above right) explains how the 17 members of her “cosplay” and dance group are practicing hard for the Japantown Cherry Blossom Festival. They are going to perform a 30-minute musical based on the popular anime, “Sailor Moon”—hence, her costume.

But this isn’t Japan, and the Japanese culture here is as imported as the goods in the shops. San Francisco’s Japantown is the oldest Japanese community in the U.S. At its peak, it was home to around 5,000 residents. It has shrunk considerably in size since, but today it is riding a wave of interest in Japanese pop culture.

Most of San Francisco’s Japanese residents arrived around the turn of the last century, explains Peter Yamamoto of the National Japanese American Historical Society. By the middle of the century, 40 square blocks were inhabited mainly by Japanese.

“You used to be able to walk down the street and only hear Japanese,” Yamamoto recalls.

Japantown’s peak was in the early 1940s; and following the uproar of WW2, internment and discrimination, and the later Japan economic success, immigration slowed to a trickle. By 1970, Japantown had shrunk to just four blocks. Now, just like the homeland, Japantown is aging. Many of the residents are elderly, and there are few working families or children.

In the Japantown mall, 79-year-old Sam Nao, a retired civil engineer, is sitting with a group of friends drinking coffee.

He can’t talk for long because soon he has to leave for a 92-year-old’s birthday party.

He remembers how Japantown used to be far bigger, with pool halls and kimono shops.

“These days, it is pretty slow here,” he says.

Yet, of late, things are happening in Japantown that the first Japanese arrivals to San Francisco would have found very strange, indeed. Somewhere else in the mall, Mari Watanabe is sitting with friends. She has her long blond hair in pigtails, wears a white blouse, and is carrying what looks like a magic wand. She explains how the 17 members of her “cosplay” and dance group are practicing hard for the Japantown Cherry Blossom Festival. They are going to perform a 30-minute musical based on the popular anime, “Sailor Moon”—hence, her costume.

Watanabe, who is Mexican-Japanese, explains that the group uses Japanese pop culture to encourage local children to learn about Japan.

“It’s for the kids in Japantown, because they can’t go to Japan themselves,” she says.

The groups regularly visit six schools in Japantown and two across San Francisco Bay. Just over the road is another example of 21st-century Japanese-American culture. A small Aladdin’s cave-type of shop has immaculately clean cabinets crammed with vinyl toy monsters and robots. Above the checkout is a huge poster of Godzilla.

The Super 7 Global Headquarters stocks everything from “Godzilla to new kaiju (monster) ... underground soft vinyl,” says 27-year-old staff member Hiro Hayashi.

The toys are mostly imported from Japan. The most expensive item in the shop is a $3,500 toy robot. (Vintage

Kaleidoscope / 25

Early detection enhances the chances for survival.

Join the Run for the Cure and help to raise awareness.

2008

The 2008 Run for the Cure ® /Walk for Life is a fun 5K / 10K run or 5K walk around the Imperial Palace.

You can organize a team of colleagues, friends or family — even encourage your employees to take part and increase their donations through matching funds.

2008 Run for the Cure Walk for Life

®

Saturday, October 18 Participation Fee*: Adult

¥5,000

Children

¥2,500

5 year olds and under, Free.

* includes T-shirt designed by Junko Koshino, Pink silicone wristband, bottled water

Win 2 tickets to Saipan with 4 nights and 3 days at the Pacific Island Club from North West Airlines

Time: 9:30

a.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Opening & Closing ceremonies: Hibiya City (near Hibiya Park and the Imperial Hotel)

Course: Around

the Imperial Palace

You can make a difference!

Register now at

www.runforthecure.org Organized by the 2008 Run for the Cure®/Walk for Life Committee

This winter, major anime company Viz Media will open a J-Pop Center in the heart of Japantown. It will be a three-story mecca for Japanese pop-culture fans, with shops, restaurants, a Kinokuniya bookstore, and a 150-seat cinema showing Japanese anime and live-action movies.

Godzilla toys go for upwards of $30,000—but they probably wouldn’t be waiting around on a shop shelf.) All the toys are hand-made, in limited editions of five to 150.

Japan makes the best plastic toys in the world, explains Hayashi. “I heard that only Japan has worked out how to make really clear vinyl,” he says enthusiastically.

Could pop culture be the future for Japantown? As a residential area, it is already well past its heyday. According to Yamamoto of the Japanese American Historical Society, an Iranian-Jewish concern has bought the land at the center of Japantown and plans to build expensive condos, which existing residents will be unlikely to afford. Yamamoto fears that could spell the end of an era.

“The development may erase the last of Japantown,” he says.

On the other hand, shops like Super 7, innumerable Japanese restaurants, plus anime and manga stores, demonstrate the area’s potential for tourism. At the 2008 Cherry Blossom Festival, the San Francisco Taiko Dojo performed traditional drumming before a crowd of tourists.

The largest taiko group in the U.S., they have 200 students, and combine drumming, jazz and martial arts to make a truly hybrid Japanese-American art form.

This winter, major anime company Viz Media will open a J-Pop Center in the heart of Japantown. It will be a threestory mecca for Japanese pop-culture fans, with shops, restaurants, a Kinokuniya bookstore, and a 150-seat cinema showing Japanese anime and live-action movies.

There is plenty of hope for the future. “[The complex] is welcomed by the community because they will be presenting Japanese culture to the public,” says Yamamoto. “ It represents a dynamic relationship between Japanese and American societies.”

Tony McNicol is a freelance writer and photographer based in Tokyo.

JAPANTOWN LINKS Japantown www.sfjapantown.org J-Pop Center www.jpopcenter.com

Luxury driving

KING OF

CUBIC

INCHES

28 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

Photos courtesy Corvette Europe

Though the American styling may be a put-off to some—the Corvette has become pretty sophisticated in its non-plus-ultra Z06-shape. Plus, with 500 horses, it remains the all-American icon that a Corvette should be. It’s best qualification, however, is its price, as it offers value for money like no other sports car. By Jeroen Booij

“There’s no substitute for cubic inches,” the Americans used to say. But as times have changed, even Corvette—dubbed “The All American Icon”—seems to have come back to that.

If there were to be a curve that sets the power-output of a car against its price, the Corvette Z06 (a more powerful and racy version of the 6th-generation ordinary Corvette) would definitely turn out to be the very best available. Think about it: With an output of 500 bhp, it is in league with the Ferraris and seriously fast Porsches (both the F430 and the 911 Turbo, respectively, offer less power). The price, on the other hand, can be compared to that of much lesser gods. At just under 9.6 million yen, the Corvette Z06 creates a massive gap between its European competitors, whose sticker prices more then double the Corvette’s.

Is the quality of the Corvette Z06 so inferior, or is the European competition that extraordinarily overpriced? To find out, you have to drive the Z06 for yourself. I did—on both road and track—and was pretty impressed with what it had to offer.

To start with the best, there is the enormous power-outtake: 500 horses. Yet, perhaps, what’s even more impressive is the 475 lb.-ft. (nearly 657 kg-m) of torque at 4,500 revolutions. This means no nervous revving engine; just serious force at all times. From a very low seating position, you can push the throttle comfortably at a modest 1,500 revs and the Z06 kicks back—literally. It leaps forward like a stag that’s just encountered a hungry lion out of nowhere. And the best thing is? It doesn’t stop accelerating until the 7,000 rpm-limit is reached.

Despite its 1,400kg, the Corvette Z06 does feel surprisingly light as well. A big accomplishment for any U.S. automaker, as even their sports cars used to be heavyweights that could only compensate for the tonnage with massive V8-engines.

“There’s no substitute for cubic inches,” the Americans used to say. But as times have changed, even Corvette—dubbed “The All American Icon”—seems to have come back to that. The car is raced frequently in Europe now, and has proved to be an excellent choice at Le Mans. The reason for this turnaround is best understood by taking a good look at the European sports car market.

“To add speed, add lightness,” Lotus Chairman Colin Chapman used to say.

With this in mind, Corvette gave the Z06 a chassis of aluminium and magnesium, instead of steel. It boasts additional lightweight materials. The front wings, for example, are made of carbon fiber; the underbody consisting of a carbon composite. All and all, the sports car is about 60kg lighter than its brother, the ordinary Corvette C6.

The engine is, however, still a huge mass. Its capacity is no less then 427 cubic inches, some seven liters—considerably more than that of its competitors. The Corvette Z06 did go to weight

watchers, nonetheless, involving titanium connecting rods and intake valves.

Performance figures are impressive, to say the least. Top speed is 198 mph (nearly 319 kp/h), and accelerating from 0 to 60 mph (over 96 kp/h) only takes 3.9 seconds. The sounds are awesome, to use an American adage. On both sides, the exhaust system is fitted with a vacuum-actuated outlet valve that controls exhaust noise during low-load operation—but opens for maximum power.

Its growl is very loud.

The six-speed manual transmission has been strengthened to handle such power output, and the suspension has been hardened.

With fat 19in (48cm) rear wheels, the car stays glued to the road— until you push the throttle with the ESP switched off. Then it’s easy to make the 4.44m- (14.4ft-) long car slide over the tarmac, leaving only white smoke and thick black stripes as your signature.

You can’t help but like the aggressive styling, with air-intakes and outtakes everywhere, splitter at the front and a diffuser at the rear.

It remains very American—more Pizza Hut than Vitello tonnato, more James Brown than Luciano Pavarotti.

The same goes for the interior. Most of the dashboard is covered in very dull-black plastic, while a Ferrari would offer soft leather with contrasting stitching. If you don’t care for this, then the Corvette Z06 remains the best you can get for the money. By far.

Jeroen Booij writes for the international motoring press and is based in Amsterdam.

CORVETTE Z06 SPECIFICATIONS Engine

V8, 32 valves

Replacement

7.008cc

Max. power

505 bhp (377 kW) @ 6.300 rpm

Max. torque

475 lb.-ft. @ 4.500 rpm

Chassis and body

steel monocoque

Sizes l/w/h

4.460/1.928/1.244 mm

Wheelbase

2.685 mm

Suspension

short/long arm double wishbones all round

Gearbox

manual, 6 gears (paddle shift automatic optional)

Tires

275/35 ZR18 front, 325/30 ZR19 rear

Brakes

ventilated discs all round

Weight

1.434 kg

Top speed

198 mph

0-60 mph

3,7 seconds

Price

from 9.54 million yen

Kaleidoscope / 29

dining

FOODfor

youth

By Dr. Aimee L. Weinstein

Banish those wrinkles and varicose veins with an anti-aging diet.

Many people are opting to eat healthy food at home, driven by the current emphasis in Japan on health, youth and beauty, as well as concerns over waistlines. The restaurant industry here has been quick to respond, offering new options for healthy eating, while still meeting the expectations of the capital’s discerning diners.

Azabu Juhachiban in the Azabu Juban area defines itself by its anti-aging cuisine. The menu is planned for nutritional balance and uses cooking methods that enable nutrients to be absorbed into the body. The restaurant’s tenets include banning fried foods, avoiding pre-cut or frozen vegetables, not using sugar, staying away from artificial preservatives or coloring, and never cooking in a microwave.

Azabu Juhachiban has been open since April 2005. According to manager Yoshimi Ozaki, with the steady increase in Japan’s senior

demographics, the restaurant’s parent company, a marketing firm, targeted those who were looking for a place to eat food that is good for their aging bodies.

In the two years following its opening, an anti-aging trend appeared in the general consumer market, so now the restaurant counts 20 and 30 year olds as its best customers. Azabu Juhachiban’s chef was trained in California cuisine, and is experienced in organic and vegetarian cooking. The restaurant was the first of its kind; now there are similarly themed eateries around the city.

The chic yet affordable lunch menu is one of the main attractions.

The preference in offering only set menus is to better control the mix of food so that diners are sure to have a proper nutritional balance. Lunch is unique, therefore, because Azabu Juhachiban adds a fresh-food buffet—plain salads with fruity dressings; tiny, individual Kaleidoscope / 31

A study out of various countries revealed that, if people drink vegetable juice three times a week, this lowers the risk of Alzheimer’s disease by 75%.

piles of mushrooms; mozzarella and tomato bits on pumpernickel breads; tofu and eggplant mix; and a large bowl of fresh fruit. The vegetables are seasoned with just enough flavor to enhance the taste without overpowering the taste buds.

Anti-aging and the link to nutrition has been a popular topic of study around the world. A study by Greeks and Swedes found that eating prunes fights wrinkles. An American study discovered that black and green tea staves off skin cancer. A study out of various countries revealed that, if people drink vegetable juice three times a week, this lowers the risk of Alzheimer’s disease by 75%.

A French study found that foods rich in Vitamin K, such as broccoli, kale and spinach, prevent varicose veins, which affect 30% of women as they age.

RECIPE

SAUTÉED KALE This vegetable rich in Vitamin K can prevent varicose veins.

HALF A BUNCH OF KALE (ABOUT 4 CUPS CHOPPED) 1 SMALL ONION, SLICED 1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL 1 TEASPOON RED PEPPER FLAKES 1 CLOVE GARLIC TOASTED SESAME OIL ALMONDS OR SESAME SEEDS SALT TO TASTE Wash the kale and shake dry. Cut off stems and chop.

Keep separate. Cut leafy part into strips. Slice onion.

Add olive oil to sauté pan; add onion, kale stems and one tablespoon water. Cover and cook until stems soften, 2-3 min.

Add rest of kale, garlic and red pepper. Sauté, tossing until kale is tender, 2 min.

Place on plates; sprinkle with sesame oil, almonds; salt to taste; and serve. stopagingnow.com

Kaleidoscope / 33

ppi nk ba ll 20088 ma sq masq q u er e r a de

venetian masquerade

pink ball 2008

the westin tokyo’s star room & galaxy ball room

friday, october 31st, 2008 6:30 doors open program highlights This year’s 5th Anniversary “Pink Ball” is sure to dazzle all in attendance. Set in a Venetian Masquerade theme with lively music and entertainment, guests will don masks and be treated to an extravagant five-course meal designed by Roppongi Hills Club’s renowned Italian chef, Roberto Mancini, and accompanied by fine Beringer wines. Miss Universe Japan contestants will once again grace the stage in a fashion show, showcasing world famous designer, Betsey Johnson. And, silent and live auctions will offer guests the opportunity to bid on a wide variety of luxury trips, hotel stays, and other fabulous prizes.

Pink Ball is a fundraising event organized by the Run for the Cure Foundation dedicated to eradicating breast cancer in Japan as a life-threatening disease.

ticket price

¥35,000

Tickets can be purchased at

www.runforthecure.org

per person

Maman Terrace is a similar place that also focuses on the issues of food and aging, and caters to those who are concerned about them. The food adheres to the seven principles of Macrobiotics, which include making grains the center of the diet; eating organic vegetables, beans and seaweed; using local, seasonal produce; using the whole food; and understanding the power contained in the foods. All the restaurants of this small chain around Japan have a menu that contains no meat, eggs, dairy or chemical

“

Our basic principle is ‘whole food.’ We use vegetables with their peels, and whole grains rich in nutrition and life force … Because we human beings are part of nature, we try to choose seasonal, domestically grown produce.

Maman Terrace

”

preservatives. This is similar to a Mediterranean diet that has been proven to slow the process of aging in regards to the skin, the liver and even the brain. A regimen such as this also has been shown to stave off the metabolic syndrome—a large concern across Japan that Maman Terrace addresses.

Originated in Osaka, the new shop opened in Tokyo’s Aoyama area in April. All the restaurants are open and airy, providing a Mediterranean feel reflected in the combinations of light wood, glass, and light coral tile. The Little Maman in Shinagawa is a takeaway version concentrating on meals that local workers can take back to their offices. Among the offerings is a balanced macrobiotic plate that, while different every day, might include steamed vegetables, qingjiao rousi (a popular Chinese dish of stir-fried green peppers and strips of meat—but vegetarian meat, in this case), miso (bean-paste) soup and brown rice. Another item of interest is the sweet and sour soy ball, which if you didn’t know better, tastes exactly like kara-age fried chicken.

At the Maman Terrace, there are desserts that include strawberry shortcake made with soy cream that has an even heavier texture than whipped cream and a fine taste that is very filling. The restaurant boasts natural sweets made with traditional sweeteners such as maple or rice syrup.

“Our basic principle is ‘whole food.’ We use vegetables with their peels, and whole grains rich in nutrition and life force … Because we human beings are part of nature, we try to choose seasonal, domestically grown produce,” states their Web site.

The food is not only delicious, but also satisfying and nourishing.

One of the major themes of a macrobiotic diet is the energy that the combinations of foods create, and the restaurant embodies this approach.

The trend toward wholesome and natural foods sweeping Japan has definitely come out of the kitchen—and into the restaurant.

The food we eat not only feeds us, but affects how well (or how poorly) we age. The choices of restaurants available across the country will please the palate, as well as sustain the body.

Dr. Aimee L. Weinstein is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Additional research by Yumi Yamazaki.

Kaleidoscope / 35

STYLE

By Nicole Fall

Standing out is what it’s about.

For Japan’s cognoscenti, Restir offers private shopping in luxurious surroundings.

Restir entrance

In this age of abundance, luxury brands increasingly raise the stakes on how to offer their best clients unique services to create a shopping experience that is unlike any other.

For many consumers in Japan, a shopping trip to a fancy designer store is really no different than a visit to a nondescript boutique.

You walk into the store, peruse the racks, the sales assistant asks if you need help—and you either buy something, or you don’t.

But for ultra-high net-worth individuals, UHNWIs (this group even has its own acronym)—people with investable assets of more than $30 million—or even their poorer high net-worth relatives, HNWIs—individuals worth just $1 million—an altogether different shopping experience awaits.

At certain stores in Tokyo—including Harry Winston, Restir and Not Found—most important is the will to spend; and, in return for this commitment, these customers are offered a host of services that are privy to only a select few.

“The increasing numbers of newly rich makes Japan a significant market for delivering luxury services to keep the high-income consumers happy,” says fashion journalist Reiko Kuwabara, who is based in Tokyo.

At Harry Winston, for example, UHNWIs are ushered to a hidden VIP room, where a magnum of champagne and a humidor stocked full of the finest cigars waits. An electronic door closes off the VIP lounge to ensure customers are safe from prying eyes (and potential kidnap attempts). Once reassured, these VIP customers kick back with a glass of fizz, while perusing a selection of watches that start at $50,000 and can go up to $1 million a timepiece.

In an experience that blurs the lines between shopping and entertainment, the seriously rich become accustomed to the life led by celebrities, even following the British Queen’s famous example of never carrying money.

“We welcome clients from around the world who want to experience Japan from an insider’s point of view,” says a spokesman at, a company that specializes in what it calls Urban Safaris, or guided services that access hidden Japan.

“Occasionally, we field requests about payments at stores and restaurants,” he says. “In our experience, the super-wealthy do not want to be bothered with a check at the end of a meal or after shopping, but often, instead, request Bespoke Tokyo to sort this out prior to eating or after purchasing.”

To really feel like a VIP, having an entire store to yourself whenever you want is the ultimate luxury at Not Found, in Azabu Juban (the exact location and contact details are deliberately kept secret). Clients are encouraged to track down Not Found through word of mouth, taking on the adage that rich friends keep similar company. Once you have located the appointment-only store, the customers have free reign— without the hassles to which mere mortals are subject, such as waiting in line to try on clothes, or trying to catch a surly assistant’s attention.

Kaleidoscope / 37

People want another way to experience exclusivity, and yearn for a moment of feeling special and setting themselves apart from others

Art, books and fashion stood side by side at Celux.

At Restir in Tokyo Midtown, it is a similar story. VIPs are quickly identified at Restir’s dedicated reception desk—run along similar lines to a hotel concierge—and taken by private elevator straight to one of two luxurious private lounges. Assistants select a variety of clothing and accessory options, acting more as personal stylists than store clerks—and lunch can be taken in the lounges, the dishes from one of the swanky restaurants in Tokyo Midtown.

After shopping, customers will have recommendations offered by Restir’s concierge regarding activities or other stores to keep the wealthy clientele occupied for the rest of the day.

Nonetheless, not all services aimed at the super rich work out.

Louis Vuitton in Japan launched Celux, a private members’ club, around five years ago. Part store, part salon, Celux charged a joining fee of around $2,000, in order to access its events and parties—and for the privilege of shopping at Celux.

Only accessible with an encrypted swipe card, the Celux store was located at the top of Louis Vuitton’s Omotesando flagship store. Once inside, patrons could quaff champagne while buying limited edition merchandise. However, Celux closed in the spring of this year due to a lack of members, possibly driven by the fact that Japan’s rich seemingly prefer not to be identified as part of a “club.”

“People want another way to experience exclusivity, and yearn for a moment of feeling special and setting themselves apart from others,” says fashion consultant and TV presenter Tiffany Godoy.

“And that could be a private room in a restaurant, or booking the private fitting room at Restir,” she concludes.

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

38 / Kaleidoscope

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 08

Salon at Restir

Membership of Celux entitled patrons to limited edition merchandise.

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