FEBRUARY 2015 FOOTWEAR IN IRELAND
THE CHRISTMAS SALES
HIT OR MISS?
WINTER WARMERS
THE FINEST AW16 STYLE
TRUE BLUE
DENIM TRENDS
GIVIN’ IT SOLE
FOOTWEAR TRENDS FOR AW16
FEBRUARY 2016
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016
COLLECTION AVAILABLE TO VIEW NOW
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NEWS
WELCOME
Another month, another issue! Whereas January kicked off with stand-alone editions of Menswear and Futura, February brings a combined issue with a focus on the menswear and footwear sectors, albeit with coverage across the fashion board. Christmas may be but a memory at this stage but it’s always worthwhile reflecting on trade the festive period, especially the annual sales. As ever, we’ve put together an informative Vox Pop in which six independent retailers across the county – two footwear retailers, two menswear stores and two ladieswear boutiques – share their respective views and experiences. As with the January issues, our fashion focus remains on the forthcoming AW 16/17 season. In addition to the conclusion preview of the leading collections in men’s and ladies’ wear, we’ve compiled reports on some of the finest footwear ranges. And for those seeking the inside line on the key trends, insightful trends reports on men’s denim, men’s casualwear and ladies’ and men’s footwear should tick all the boxes. With regular features such as Showtalk, in which we preview Moda and Pure, and an extended News section, which covers everything from new appointments and openings to the key developments in the Irish retail sector, as well as an interview with Simon Cope, the managing director of Skopes, where he talks about his off-duty life, you’ll have all you need and more to keep you informed until our next issue. Enjoy the read! Alexander Fitzgerald
COVER IMAGE: COOLWAY AW16/17
CONTENTS 2 NEWS
14 THE OTHER SIDE OF
Skopes’ MD Simon Cope on life outside the 9-5
16 TRUE BLUE
Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor mail@skypublishing.ie
The latest developments in the fashion and footwear sectors
How men’s denim is shaping up for AW16
18 KEEPING IT CASUAL
The key looks in men’s casual wear for AW16
20 SHOWTALK
Previews of the key trade shows
21 VOX POP: THE CHRISTMAS SALES
SEE US ON
Six Irish retailers share their respective experiences on the recent festive sales
24 WINTER WARMERS Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main Street, Rathfarnham, Dublin 14, Ireland. Telephone: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 Email: mail@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing Ltd. 2016.
2 | FEBRUARY 2016
Previews of the AW16 collections
28 GIVING’ IT SOLE
The hottest trends for AW16 footwear
30 A FAMILY AFFAIR
Exclusive interview with Louise Kiernan of longstanding footwear retailer, Jack Kiernan & Sons
NEWS
NEWS
BROWN THOMAS REVAMP HOPES SHOPPERS WILL SPEND LONGER INSTORE
The Dublin branch of Brown Thomas, the country’s most high-profile department store, continues to undergo development and redesign, with the most recent revamp taking place across the contemporary ladies fashion floor. Carried out by Alex Cochrane Architects and costing north of €10 million, the latest phase is being implemented in response
CLERYS FALLOUT LEADS TO REVIEW Following the unpleasant fall-out of Clery’s sudden closure in 2015, the Government has commissioned a review of legal protection to ensure companies meet their responsibilities to employees and unsecured creditors if they go into liquidation. Kevin Duffy, Labour Court chair, and Nessa Cahill, company law specialist, have been tasked with examining existing company legislation and given just eight weeks to do so. Speaking recently, Business Minister Ged Nash and Jobs Minister Richard Bruton both expressed a desire that limited liability or restructuring are not used to avoid a company’s obligations to its employees and unsecured creditors. This review process will focus on situations where valuable assets in a company are separated from the
to the changing habits of customers, particularly with the emergence of online shopping, and the resulting consequences - where people are spending more and more time making purchases from the comfort of their own home. As such, the new look and its displays are more minimal than in previous incarnations with just one size on show. However, to ensure speed as a result of these changes, stockroom space will move from the basement to close to the rails on the second floor. Brown Thomas is further embracing the popularity of online shopping by allowing customers to browse on the store’s website and select outfits, which will then be ready to try on when they arrive at the store. Additionally, a popular buzzword in the retail industry at the moment is ‘dwelltime’ – an effort to get customers to spend as much time as possible in the store. And so, to make the shopping experience as engaging as possible, Brown Thomas will be introducing a restaurant to the second floor.
BLANCHARDSTOWN IS PUT UP FOR SALE operating entity while also determining how the position of employees can be better protected in such situations. With regards to Clerys, owners Gordon Brothers separated the firm into an operating business and the building itself. They sold Clerys to Natrium for a sizeable €29 million. Natrium then kept the property arm of the company and sold the operating business to an insolvency practitioner, who then put the company into liquidation. As the operating business was insolvent, staff received no redundancy packages - aside from their statutory State payments. Traders were also left out of pocket. This review process has been welcomed and endorsed by Irish Congress of Trade Unions and SIPTU.
The country’s biggest retail complex, Blanchardstown Centre, has been placed on the market this February. Currently owned by the Green Property Group, the popular North Dublin complex was formally released to the market by joint agents, JLL and Eastdil Secured. Boasting an annual footfall of more than 16 million people, Blanchardstown lays claim to a rent roll of approximately €50m per annum. The centre has 176 stores, including 20 restaurant and food outlets, two retail parks, and a multiplex cinema. What’s more, experts mention the sizeable potential for development on the property, whether it’s further retail opportunities or the building of apartment complexes.
FEBRUARY 2016 | 3
NEWS
RETAILERS GIVE ‘UNHEALTHY’ REVIEW TO COUNTRY’S SHOPPING CENTRES Retail Excellence Ireland’s Shopping Centre Review 2015, which claims to be the most in-depth shopping centre health review in Ireland, makes for depressing reading if you’re a shopping centre retailer. The annual review surveyed more than 200 shopping centre tenants which operate more than 600 shopping centre stores. It looked for feedback regarding centre performance from the tenant’s perspective. Shopping centre owners were not consulted in the course of conducting the review of the 33 centres. In terms of overall performance from the tenant’s point of view, none of the shopping centres was ranked “in good health”. Of those marked “marginally healthy”, Stillorgan Shopping Centre was ranked first, followed by Dundrum Town Centre and Blanchardstown Centre. Also included in this group was Limerick’s Crescent, Carlow’s Fairgreen, Cork’s Mahon Point and Wilton centres, Dublin’s Stephen’s Green centre and Galway Shopping Centre. Of the centres determined as having an “unhealthy” overall performance, MacDonagh Junction in Kilkenny, Scotch Hall in Drogheda and Blackrock shopping centre in Co Dublin had the lowest scores, while of those ranked “significantly unhealthy”, Arklow’s Bridgewater came out worst. “Stillorgan Shopping Centre’s productivity is a factor of many leases being at sustainable rent levels, recent retail openings enhancing footfall, free parking and a significant and affluent local demographic,” says Seán Murphy, deputy chief executive of Retail Excellence Ireland. When asked if their shopping centre stores were profitable, no retailers described their outlets as “profitable”. Galway Shopping Centre had the highest score for retailers which ranked their stores “marginally profitable” followed by Whitewater in Newbridge and Letterkenny. Stores in 13 centres were ranked “unprofitable”, including Dundrum and Stephen’s Green, while shops in Athlone Town Centre, Laurence Town Centre in 4 | FEBRUARY 2016
Dundrum Town Centre
Blanchardstown Centre
Stillorgan Shopping Centre
Mahon Point
Drogheda and Bridgewater were ranked “significantly unprofitable”. When asked if their shopping centre outlet was strategically important to their store network, no shopping centre had a store ranked by retailers as “important”. Stillorgan was top for “marginally important” stores followed by Dundrum and Blanchardstown, while retailers in 20 centres said their shops were “unimportant”; of those surveyed, retailers at the Laurence centre described their shops as “significantly unimportant”. No retailers said they were paying close to the market rent for their stores. Parkway Shopping Centre in Limerick came on top for retailers paying “marginally close to the market rent” while 27 centres were determined by retailers as having rents “not close to market rent”. Blackrock was the only shopping centre ranked as having a “significant disparity to market rent”. When asked if shopping centre management worked hard to promote their centres, no retailer ranked a shopping centre “well promoted”. Dundrum, Jervis and Stillorgan were determined “marginally well promoted” while 30 centres were ranked either “poorly promoted” or “very poorly promoted”. Just Whitewater was found to have a management team “marginally responsive” to tenant needs, while the other 32 centres surveyed had management
teams that were “non-responsive” and “significantly non-responsive”. With such a negative opinion of their shopping centres, it’s not surprising to learn that retailers in five centres had “definite exit from scheme” plans while retailers in 11 other centres would “probably exit the scheme”. Retailers in just two centres, Stillorgan and Blanchardstown, “will remain in scheme” while those at 14 other centres “marginally wish to remain in the scheme”. “Our survey shows that much of the sheen has come off the primary M50 schemes with consumers becoming tired of ‘commoditised formats’ and travelling greater distances for weekend experiences,” said Mr Murphy. The REI Shopping Centre Review 2015 survey included Athlone Town Centre; Ballincollig Shopping Centre; Blackpool Shopping Centre; Blackrock Shopping Centre, Co Dublin; Blanchardstown Centre; Bridgewater Shopping Centre; City Square Shopping Centre, Waterford; Crescent Shopping Centre; Douglas Court Shopping Centre; Dundrum Town Centre; Dún Laoghaire Shopping Centre; Eyre Square Shopping Centre; Fairgreen Shopping Centre; Galway Shopping Centre; Ilac Shopping Centre; Jervis Shopping Centre; and Laurence Town Centre. Shopping centres without a reasonable tenant sample available were excluded.
NEWS
MAGEE LAUNCHES 150TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION 150 years Some 150 years ago, Irishman John Magee opened a small draper’s shop in Donegal Town, where he bought and sold tweed. Robert Temple, his cousin joined the business a few years later and subsequently purchased the business in 1900. Commendably, Magee is still trading today with the third- and fourth-generation Temple generation at its helm. While the weaving of luxurious cloths inspired by Donegal’s natural beauty remains at the heart the fashion business today, it has evolved over the years to become much more than this. Today, Magee creates both womenswear and menswear lifestyle collections, which are available across the globe. Furthermore, the company’s renowned Personal Tailoring
service offers clients the opportunity to create unique garments, its Formalwear collections represent a key and growing component of total business, while its traditional crafted hand-knits remain perennially popular, particularly overseas in countries as far afield as Japan. In addition to trading online and in its three Irish stores, Magee supports 117 jobs directly, and has been contributing to the Irish economy at large for 150 Years. To celebrate this prestigious milestone, the Donegal-based company has launched a Spring Summer Capsule Collection in honour of its Sesquicentennial Anniversary. The Collection is inspired by Magee’s rich archives; silk, wool, linen and cashmere blends in herringbone, houndstooth, Donegal and Glen check weaves, played out in deep cobalt navy, nostalgic oat, raspberry and kindly greens. The luxurious cloths are woven in Magee’s mill in Donegal by expert weavers, some with over 40 years’ experience in the field. These cloths are embodied in timeless garments in modern and retro styling; including on-trend tailored-fit three piece suits with collar and lapel waistcoat,
HAWICK FINALISTS KNITWEAR ANNOUNCED GOES INTO FOR IFIAS ADMINISTRATION The Scottish fashion industry received a blow early in the New Year with the announcement that Hawick Knitwear, the famous and much-loved brand, has gone into administration, resulting in the loss of 123 jobs with a further 56 in jeopardy. KPMG, the appointed administrators, are exploring all possibilities to ensure the completion of current orders. Hawick Knitwear, known for its highend products such as cashmere, has a long history in the southern Scottish town dating back to 1874, and is very much part of its industrial heritage. In a last-bid effort, local politicians are now calling upon the government to find an alternative buyer who could possibly protect the jobs of the employees. 6 | FEBRUARY 2016
The countdown to one of the most important events in Ireland’s fashion calendar is on, as the finalists for the seventh Irish Fashion Innovation Awards (IFIAs) are announced. Often referred to as the Irish Fashion Oscars, the IFIAs celebrates up-andcoming designers from across the country. The only event of its kind in Ireland, the annual awards ceremony recognises the wealth of innovative and creative designers the country possess, from emerging students emerging to established designers The finest of Irish design talent has been shortlisted Ireland’s in five categories: Millinery Designer of the Year, Jewellery Designer of the Year, Accessory Designer of the Year, Student Designer of the Year and, the most coveted title of all, Fashion Designer of the Year. One of the category winners will also receive the overall Innovation Award while four up-and-coming designers will showcase their collections in the Ones
unstructured jackets sporting flattering silhouettes with vintage patch pockets, mock-action back and out-side-ticket pocket optional features, and classic structured blazers and waistcoats with contemporary straight pockets.
to Watch category. Caroline Mitchell, Mona Swims’ Caroline Mitchell and Hannah Mullan and Grainne Finn of the brand Tissue A design by tissue, which was have all been founded by the talented illustrator nominated for Gráinne Finn and pattern-cutting Designer of the expert Hannah Mullan Year, along with Irish rising star Giovanna Borza. The IFIAS will take place on Thursday March 10 at the Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, Galway and will be attended by special guests including Mairead Whisker and Heidi Higgins. A well-known figure in fashion, Whisker founded her eponymous label in 1984 and, following a move to Los Angeles in the mid-90s, she continued to produce collections for prestigious stores in the United States and Europe before returning to Dublin in 2001 to set up her own studio. Higgins, meanwhile, is a former finalist at the Irish Fashion Innovation Awards in 2011 and 2012, and will return this year to present pieces from contemporary label that she established in 2009.
NEWS
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NEWS
IRISH DESIGNER GETS SUPPORT FROM VOGUE WILLIAMS Shauna Harrison, a relatively unknown Irish designer, received a huge boost following the National TV Awards, when Vogue Williams wore one of her creations. The former Bear Grylls: Mission Survive winner became familiar with the designer after seeing her work in an Irish Independent article and immediately got in touch. Soon after, the 26-year-old met with Williams to discuss style preferences and shapes. Harrison, a Grafton College-graduate, had then just under two weeks to create the feminine blue halter dress, which Williams matched with red heels on the night. And, it appears that both of their efforts were rewarded with the outfit landing on many Best Dressed lists.
BROWN THOMAS TO RAMP UP ITS DESIGNER FOOTWEAR OFFERING Fashionistas’ dreams will soon become reality as Brown Thomas gears up to welcome a quartet of blue-chip designer shoe boutiques to its Grafton Street flagship in the coming months. In addition to a Manolo Blahnik boutique, which opened in recent weeks, the high-end department store will be 8 | FEBRUARY 2016
2016 is set to be a great year for Harrison; amongst many other exciting projects, she is soon set to debut her first evening wear collection.
shortly be opening a Valentino boutique and adding a Roger Vivier pop-up in the store’s Shoe Rooms. Plans are also well advanced to double the sixe of the existing Jimmy Choo shoe boutique, according to Brown Thomas’ fashion director, Shelly Corkery. Doubling the size of the Jimmy Choo offer in store underlines the demand for the luxury brand, which is a favourite with fashionistas. Speaking to the Irish Independent, Corkery mentioned how the series of big name shoe openings represents “the development of bigger businesses within the shoe business”. “It’s about giving more options, making bigger statements and giving brands home and identity.”
FLOODS WREAK HAVOC FOR CORK RETAILERS Following torrential storms earlier this year, retailers and householders in the worstaffected areas, notably east Cork, faced a Goliath clean-up operation. Calculating the cost of damage to property and stock was proving to be a sobering task for local business people. Many retailers, including Michael Coakley who opened his clothing shop on Middleton’s main street some 47 years ago, felt angered by the lack of support offered by local councils. Instead, it fell upon local farmers to clear away the water with the help of tractors and tankers. Believed to be the worst floods in over 30 years, many areas could only be reached by boat.
US EXPOSURE FOR ROCKPORT Footwear News, the leading footwear trade magazine in North America, featured The Rockport Group and Bob Infantino in a recent edition. In a two-page feature titled ‘Rockport Resoled’, the publication reported on Bob Infantino’s return to Rockport and his vision for our new company. The article appeared in a Q&A format and included quotes from three valued U.S. retail partners.
NEWS
Sonia Lennon
NUMEROUS EVENTS PLANNED FOR INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY To mark International Woman’s Day on Tuesday, 8 March, Dress for Success Dublin is calling on women in workplaces across Dublin to fundraise, hold events or donate clothing to support other women on their journey towards employment. Dress for Success Dublin, which was founded in 2010 by fashion stylist, designer and tech entrepreneur Sonya Lennon, provides women with the clothing, skills and confidence needed to succeed in the workplace. 2016 will be the third year in a row that the organisation marks IWD by holding its biggest annual fundraising and clothing collection drive. Commenting on the campaign, Sonya Lennon said: “International Women’s Day is about celebrating the social, economic and cultural achievements of women, so it’s a natural fit for Dress for Success Dublin. Over the past two years, 60 companies have supported our IWD campaign and, this year, we’re hoping for our biggest campaign to date. “We’d love to see hundreds of companies – no matter how large or small – getting involved. This is a perfect opportunity for workplaces to celebrate and promote the achievements of the fabulous women on their teams.” Supporters of Dress for Success Dublin’s IWD campaign include Boots, Computershare, Eversheds, Executive Connections, GLG and Salesforce. Events taking place are expected to range from coffee mornings and fashion shows to networking and skills-sharing events. Since Dress for Success Dublin was founded in 2010, it has supported over 1,100 women to develop skills in applying for and finding jobs, and developing their careers on an ongoing basis. 57 per cent of women supported by the organisation have gained employment, while 75 per cent state they are where they want to be, whether working or in further education and training. Dress for Success Dublin receives no State funding, and is entirely dependent on fundraising, corporate support and grants to provide its services. FEBRUARY 2016 | 9
NEWS
IRISH MMA FIGHTER CREDITED WITH UPTICK IN MENSWEAR SALES
NEW CEO FOR STARTRITE
According to a recent study of sales results conducted by Retail Excellence Ireland and consulting firm Grant Thornton, menswear sales here are experiencing a positive uptick, which is being attributed to MMA fighter Conor McGregor. McGregor has become an unlikely fashion hero, thanks to his penchant for dapper suits and stylish accessories and footwear, which has translated into buoyant sales in formalwear across the country. Known as the ‘McGregor Effect’, the buying behaviour of millennial males in particular are being heavily influenced by the sporting star. The Crumlin native has been listed on numerous Best-Dressed list in recent years as a result of his collaborations with the likes of Louis Copeland and other designers.
Footwear brand Start-rite has appointed Ian Watson as its new chief executive, making him the first non-family member to lead the firm. The appointment follows the announcement in October 2015 that Peter Lamble is stepping down as the company’s joint chairman and chief executive after 20 years; although will remain in a key nonexecutive role on the James Southall Board. An established figure within the footwear industry, Watston has spent the past eight years in his role as European managing director of Germany-based Britax Childcare, and boasts extensive experience of international brands and markets. Having commenced his role as CEO at the start of February, Watson is now working with Stephen Riley, who joined the board last November as nonexecutive chairman. “I’m delighted to be joining a business steeped in heritage and with such a premium brand position,” said Watson. “I look forward to utilising my expertise to build on the successful work of Peter [Lamble].”
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NEWS
LEN HAYES OBITUARY Futura was deeply saddened to hear of the news that Len Hayes, one of the most loved and respected figures in the Irish fashion sector, passed away on 9 January, 2016. Len started his impressive career with Brown Thomas before working for his father, John Hayes Snr, in the Dublin Shirt Company selling Clubman shirts and Jockey. Len eventually took over the reins of the business and, under his inspiring leadership, is said to have taught industry stalwarts John Lawlor, Gerry Hollingsworth, John O’Donnell and Kay Flynn a thing or two! Beloved husband of Valerie, Len, from Glenageary, Co. Dublin, will be deeply missed by his wife and children - John, Jenny and Sara – as well as his faithful dog, Ganley, and numerous friends. Threadweave’s John Lawlor, one of Len’s closest friends, shared some poignant memories of his dear friend. “My first memory of Len Hayes, is still with me to this day. I had just started working in O’Reilly’s on North Earl Street in 1963. I remember a man walking through the door. He was blonde, tanned and impeccably dressed, and, unlike other men, stood out. The man was Len Hayes who, as the owner of Clubman Shirts, was making his weekly calls. Over time, I developed a relationship with Len, and in 1966, I approached him looking to work with Clubman. He gave me a job as a stockroom assistant and our relationship grew from here. Even at this early stage, Len always treated me as an equal. He always made sure to include me in events and opportunities. He introduced me to travel throughout Europe, visiting places like Frankfurt, Paris and London. He taught me about social interaction and shared his love of style and fine clothes with me. Memories of gin & tonics, in some of the finest bars in London, and Len singing “A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square” are happy ones I carry with me to this day - and are ones that I am often reminded of, even while travelling today. Len’s friendship knew no bounds. Not only had he accepted me into his world in a professional capacity, but he went a step further, and invited me into his private life, too. His generosity was second to none. From an early stage, Len introduced me to his family and close friends, many of whom, were not involved in the clothing business. I spent many social occasions in the company of his wife, Valerie, and his children and close friends such as the late PJ O’Reilly, Denis Dorgan Snr, Peter and JV Mooney and, of course, one John O’Donnell. On the sad occasion of Lens passing, when I think back to the man who walked through he doors of O’Reilly’s, back in 1963, I can appreciate the influence he had on many aspects of my life and how his influence had a lot to do with shaping who I am today. For this, I will always be grateful and will always remember Len in a very special way.” The whole team at Futura send the Hayes family our condolences. FEBRUARY 2016 | 11
NEWS
BOUTIQUE FASHION SHOW SET FOR MARCH Jennifer Wrynne
The Boutique Fashion Show, which debuted last year, is preparing its next instalment on 10 March where Irish boutiques will be given an opportunity to showcase their S/S 16 collections. The venue is, once again, Dublin’s Café en Seine. Organised by Lara Mooney of Fashion Fixxer, the fashion show will feature six outfits from each boutique. The line-up for this year includes many well-known and respected names including Redlane, Coco C, Neola, Coco, Mademoiselle, Serena, Miss E, Elli, Bow & Pearl, Smock and Place. The Boutique Fashion Show uses professional models from the leading Irish model agencies, and has an extremely visible presence across all social media platforms.
NEW DUBLIN SHOWROOM FOR BRAZIL BODY SPORTS Having recently relocated to a spacious new showroom at Unit 30, Airways Industrial Estate, in Santry, Dublin 9, Brazil Body Sports footwear distributors is now showing the AW16 collections of its FitFlop and Coolway brands (both of which are previewed in this issue) through their agent Peter Doyle. 12 | FEBRUARY 2016
MILLINER MAKES IRELAND’S BEST YOUNG ENTREPRENEUR FINALS Jennifer Wrynne, the up-and-coming milliner and fashion blogger from County Leitrim, secured a place in the national finals of the prestigious Ireland’s Best Young Entrepreneur awards. The initiative received over 1,400 applications across 31 Local Enterprise Offices from entrepreneurs aged between 18 and 30, all of whom had an outstanding idea for a commercial venture. Donegal, Leitrim, Longford and Sligo were the four counties competing in Jennifer’s region, and despite the tough competition, the young talented fashionista was honoured win the Best Established Business category. The next step is the National finals. Speaking on her blog, Wrynne admitted to being “petrified” ahead of her pitch. As part of the competition, participants had support from various mentors to further develop their business skills. Brian Dolan had been helping Jennifer in the run-up to the regional finals. “The other people in my category are incredible young business people,” Jennifer said of her competition. “Their business ideas and level of success [are] outstanding. Each and every one of them [is] so inspirational.” The National finals will take place in Google’s European HQ in Dublin.
IRISH DESIGNER CATRIONA HANLY RETURNS WITH READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION At the zenith of the Celtic Tiger, Catríona Hanly was famed for her vibrant, eyecatching jewellery. Since then, Hanly temporarily took herself out of the industry, returned to interior design and uprooted to the UK. However, a relaunch for the designer is now firmly on the horizon with the announcement of her upcoming ready-to-wear collection. A former student of the Barbara Bourke College of Fashion, Hanly’s latest output is a party and occasion-wear collection, consisting mainly of separates with a fabric range that includes silk-organza, lace, tulle, damask, sequins and velvet. Influences include New York’s Studio 54, Paris and Marie Antoinette and will be on sale exclusively in the Design Centre and online, including Hanly’s website.
Wortmann Gruppe Internationale Schuhproduktionen · Detmold/Germany · Phone: +49 52 31 605.129 · Fax: +49 52 31 605.5.129 · E-mail: sales@wortmann.com · wortmann.com Tamaris Ireland · David Coogan · 10, Shrewsbury Manor · Drogheda, Co. Louth · Phone: +353 41 9847369 · Mobile: +353 86 2779480 · E-mail: david.coogan@wortmann.com · tamaris.eu
INTERVIEW
“It’s hard to beat the Maldives”
TV show Lewis is a favourite TV show
THE OTHER SIDE OF… A KEY PLAYER IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY, SIMON COPE IS THE THIRD GENERATION OF HIS FAMILY TO RUN MENSWEAR LABEL SKOPES, HAVING JOINED THE COMPANY IN 1993 AS A 25-YEAR-OLD.
The Big Bang Theory
F
ollowing a successful 2015 – “Skopes has traded very well during the year and look forward to trading within Ireland for 2016 to increase our market share” – he is looking forward to the year ahead, mentioning how “we have big plans for 2016/17 within Ireland, where Jonathan Gosson is at the heart of Skopes’ success.” While fashion may be in his blood, there’s far more to the 47-year-old businessman than fits and fabrics. Here, he explains how, despite the business being “24/7 full-on”, he manages to balance work with play, how he likes to unwind and where he sees himself in ten years’ time.
Inspector Morse Kingsman: The Secret Service
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Chez La Vie, a French restaurant in Harrogate, and San Carlos, which serves some of the best Italian food in Leeds. FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? I don‘t do holidays very well, as find it hard to relax for more than a few days; the business is 24/7 full-on. If I do get away, though, it’s hard to beat the Maldives, if it’s long haul, or Portugal, for a short break. 14 | FEBRUARY 2016
Dodge Hellcat
Coco Chanel
INTERVIEW Cadillac Escalade
A former passion: Motocross quad biking
FAVOURITE TV SHOW? The Big Bang Theory (with the kids); Inspector Morse and Lewis (with the wife). FAVOURITE FILM? Too hard to limit to one! Shrek (2001) for general family humour, Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014) and 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea (1954) with James Mason FAVOURITE ACTOR? James Mason. FAVOURITE BOOK? I’m not a big book person but did enjoy Kramer vs Kramer by Avery Corman. FAVOURITE DESIGNER? Coco Chanel. FAVOURITE CAR? I have driven Aston Martin cars for several years but recently fancied a change so I imported a Dodge Hellcat and a Cadillac Escalade from the USA. HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? As the company is growing at 15-20% every year, when I do get time off, I really try to switch off. I like fast engines and used to race Motocross quad bikes, but had to stop after I suffered a heart attack. It still hasn‘t slowed me down, though, nor has it altered my desire to succeed and win. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? I am 47 years old now, so I really hope to have slowed down by then, or perhaps have retired to leave the business to the younger generation. If so, I can then carry on fundraising for Yorkshire Air Ambulance, Cancer Research and Sparks Children’s Medical Research Charity. IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE…. At home with my family, the five dogs and three horses.
Skopes AW16/17
“AS THE COMPANY IS GROWING AT 15-20% EVERY YEAR, WHEN I DO GET TIME OFF, I REALLY TRY TO SWITCH OFF” FEBRUARY 2016 | 15
TRENDS DENIM
TRUE BLUE
F
or a preview of the leading trends in denim, there are few better ‘crystal balls’ than Denim Première Vision. The recent 16th edition – and the third to take place in Barcelona – proved no exception, proving an unparalleled meeting point for the international denim community. The AW 16/17 show and overall 16th edition attracted 4,131 international visitors (an increase of 73% on November 2014) coming to see and buy from the worlds leading mills, laundry houses and fibre specialists, such as ISKO, Orta, Jeanologia and Kiroki. The theme for season was Denim Constellations with the idea hoping to inspire jeanswear insiders to ‘converge and connect’ at the show. The results were impressive and revealed a number of key trends and developments.
Bruhl
Bugatti
Bruhl Mac
CG Club Of Gents
DENIM CRAFTSMAN Artisanal attitudes continue to be a core styling reference for A/W 16/17. Arvind offers hand-loomed fabrics as part of its Kardi collection, while Orta looks to natural dyestuffs on an industrial scale. Elsewhere, Isko presents a Japanesesashiko-inspired textural denim.
Club Of Comfort
ECO-FRIENDLY DENIM As with many of the recent denim fabric fairs, sustainability proved to be a key focus for the show with all major exhinitors presenting eco-friendly collections and ensuring the communication of this theme was made even more apparent. Orta Anadolu and Garmon Chemicals hosted two seminars daily to give insight into the new sustainable initiative Green Screen, a methodology approved by Greenpeace for certifying non-harmful chemical and substances. Meanwhile, Jeanologia presented its Blue Technology exhibition, showcasing its latest laser developments, Orta showcased its new Vegan Denim offering featuring natural dyestuffs, and Calik Oxygen technology, an innovative 100% cotton with special dyestuffs that can be treated in faster times (about 50-60% faster than normal denims) and employ less chemicals, water and energy. 16 | FEBRUARY 2016
Bugatti Club Of Gents Gardeur
Gardeur
Camel Active Roy Robson
TRENDS
FEBRUARY 2016 | 17
TRENDS CASUALWEAR
KEEPING T IT CASUAL
he men’s collections for AW16/17 season in London, Milan and Paris offered plenty of visual comfort and plenty of food for thought with the resurfacing of classic lines pertaining to many brands’ DNA There’s something about
Skopes
the AW collections that gets fans of tailoring hot under the collar with excitement at the prospect of a smorgasbord of covetable outerwear items and razor sharp suits hitting the runway. And, thankfully, the AW 16/17 collections did not disappoint.
Bruhl
Bugatti
Eden Park Carl Gross
Club Of Comfort
Seidensticker
Casamoda
Remus Uomo
Olymp
Camel Active Prada
Vivienne Westwood
CG-Club Of Gents
RAZOR-SHARP TAILORING Daks
Hanro
OVERSIZED OUTERWEAR The outerwear camp was dominated by sloped shoulder oversize coats, the ubiquitous bomber jacket - which designers (and clients) still just can’t seem to get enough of - and the parka, another item which has enjoyed a renaissance thanks to the geek chic counter trend. 18 | FEBRUARY 2016
Tailoring for the season is impressively sharp, with slim fit lines and a nod to many ‘vintage’ cuts. Dolce & Gabbana sent suits out on the runway reminiscent of the dawn of the brand’s menswear in the Nineties, while Hedi Slimane at Saint Lauren showed skinny tailoring that could have been cut by the master himself. Miuccia Prada, meanwhile, also revisited a very Pradaesque aesthetic with her menswear, steering clear of Hawaiian prints or gimmicky accessories.
Louis Vuitton
James Long
YMC
BLUE IS THE COLOUR The colour palette ranged from traditional autumnal hues like burgundy and green to cool winter white and the ever so chic camel, which just exacerbated the elegance and volume of the outerwear. Blues were the accent colours of this traditional palette with grey and black dominating the catwalks.
Philip Lim
PRINTS CHARMING Prints varied from figurative to abstract, with a return to Ninetiesstyle slogan tops in the sportswear camp and plenty of masculine fabrics such as pinstripes, albeit more creative, tweed and checks. Knitwear was one of the protagonists of the season, an expected role in an AW season, obviously, but with particularly attractive results.
Mac
Roy Robson
Old Salt
Pure
Bar Harbour
TRENDS
David O‘Mahony Tel.: +353 - 87 26 65 174 david.omahony@marcotozzi.com
www.marcotozzi.com FEBRUARY 2016 | 19
SHOWTALK
SHOWTALK
PURE LONDON WHERE: LONDON OLYMPIA WHEN: 14-16 FEBRUARY, 2016
Over 700 brands will join the exhibitor line-up at Pure London in February from 14-16 February, with a host of first-time exhibitors adding to the mix. The February edition of the popular show will showcase the finest in capsule collections from emerging brands while the launch of Pure Menswear will cater for mid-to-premium high-end brands with a unique and exciting mix on offer. Within the wider womenswear options is Pure Premium: an area that will house over 40 high-end brands, each offering unique, bespoke and couture collections for AW’16, as well as short-order for SS’16. Following its highly-acclaimed debut at the August 2015 edition, Premium Footwear Brands will return again this season, offering a unique and an exciting way of presenting must-have collections from a variety of high-end footwear brands. With niche, quality designs set to inspire independent buyers looking for something different, the line-up for footwear brands boasts a host of established and emerging labels including C.doux, Audley, Imelda’s Secret, United Nude, Camper UK, Chie Mihara, Cocorose London, Marita Moreno, Paco Herrero, CREL and Slack. A number of key brands will be returning to Pure London. These include a trio of Danish labels, b.young, Fransa, Cream, as well as Inwear, ICHI, Part Two and Soaked in Luxury. Guests can look forward to a stunning range of innovative fabrics and prints from the respective brands. Also adding to the mix will be a cutch of first-time exhibitors, including Zoe Vine Delirious Eyewear, Lily &
20 FEBRUARY 2016
Carter, Hemera, Harber &Dasher, Pauline B, LuckyLU and EllesD. The ever-popular Pure Footwear and Accessories, meanwhile, will showcase everything from the finest millinery to handbags, shoes and fashion jewellery. Amongst the Pure regulars who will be returning for the forthcoming edition are Zandra Rhodes, Kazuri Beads, Nour, Helen Moore, Kirsteen Stewart, Pia Rossini, Lacoste Footwear, Peter Kaiser, Unisa, Ravel, Moda in Pelle, Birkenstock, Peach Accessories and Smeidi London. An added dimension to the show will be provided by Pure Menswear, which will be launching at the forthcoming edition and will serve as a hub for breakthrough menswear designers. Its launch, according to the show organisers, forms part of a bold plan to re-edit and refresh the show, enhancing its new-look interior while offering buyers and retailers a one-stop Central London destination to source both men’s and womenswear collections under one roof. A diverse range of menswear brands – everything from 1 Like No Other and Guide London to Haber & Dasher, Shackleton, Claudio Lugli, Noble Wilde, Peter Gribby, Jacksin, Blow Ties and Guide – will be making their bow as exhibitors. In line with the menswear launch, Pure London will also introduce new content throughout the season as part of its 365 digital approach, with seminar content tailored towards menswear brands, retailers and media. Speakers already confirmed include Simon Middleton, Founder of The Shackleton Design & Manufacturing Company, and David Mullane, Founding Director of The Warehouse. The pair will add to the show’s inspiring content programme which, teamed with the contemporary menswear offering, will cater to menswear and lifestyle retailers in search of new and exciting products; as well as Pure London’s loyal audience of womenswear, footwear and accessories buyers and retailers from across the UK and further afield. Exhibitors, meanwhile, include a wealth of top menswear brands such as BMB Clothing, Marbek, Double Two, Raw Indigo, Hanro, NeeD Japan and Wolsey.
MODA
WHERE: NEC BIRMINGHAM WHEN: 21–23 FEBRUARY 2016 Moda is set to launch two new areas for its upcoming edition: Outdoor Lifestyle and a combined unisex border. Firstly, Outdoor Lifestyle will bring together style and outdoor performance properties with a strong focus on heritage and British design. With flagship exhibitors Alan Paine, Gurteen, Viyella and Bladen leading the way, the introduction will see Moda go off the beaten track with inspired collections for both men and women. International newcomers Channel Jumper and CAP Frehel will also showcase their respective autumn offerings within this new area. Additionally, the forthcoming show will see the introduction of a combined border between Menswear and Womenswear, offering exhibitors and visitors the chance to showcase and view collections with a unisex lifestyle offer. For the intimate apparel sector, meanwhile, the event will relocate Moda Lingerie & Swimwear into its own hall. Evolving as a show-in-show concept, the move will see the implementation of a new setting and stand design, on top of an exclusive entrance. Moda Accessories will also be reorganised for the new season, bringing each of its product sectors into the context of the wider apparel industry. Three distinct areas of accessories will be presented alongside complementary collections in Moda Woman, maximising the potential of cross-sector buying for visitors. On-trend accessories will be showcased alongside in-season womenswear; contemporary ranges will be located adjacent to Moda White; and millinery will relocate to Moda Noir in recognition of the synergy between leading hat labels and occasionwear. Additionally, the February edition of Moda will see the introduction of a combined border between Menswear and Womenswear, offering exhibitors and visitors the chance to showcase and view collections with a unisex lifestyle offer. Brands confirmed include Gabicci, Brook Taverner, Eterna, Magee, Eden Park and Gibson.
VOXPOP
VOX POP THE CHRISTMAS SALES: HIT OR MISS? WERE THEY A SUCCESS? WHEN DID THEY START? WHAT DISCOUNTS WERE OFFERED? AND WHAT PROVED POPULAR? SIX RETAILERS ACROSS THE MENSWEAR, LADIESWEAR AND FOOTWEAR SECTORS SHARE THEIR RESPECTIVE EXPERIENCES.
EDDIE MURPHY OWNER OF EDDIE MURPHY’S MAIN ST, BALLYHAUNIS, CO. MAYO
GERARD MCDERMOTT
OWNER OF MCDERMOTT’S OLDCASTLE, CO. MEATH
“We got on grand this year. Overall, everything was okay, although it probably wasn’t as good as last year. Many customers gravitate towards online shopping and the internet these days so that might explain the slight dip. In saying that, we were very happy with our winter sales. “The weather turned quite cold in the early New Year and, as a result, the heavier items such as coats, jumpers and jackets proved extremely popular. We had a great year with suits – check suits in particular – and this trend continued into the winter sales. Our young customers were especially interested in them. “We started our sales on Tuesday, 29 December, which is around the same time as last year. Our sales are continuing until the end of January, so we’re at the tail end of it now. We offered various discounts, which increased as the sales continued. Our new stock is currently being slowly introduced. “We’re looking forward to the year ahead and are very optimistic. Suits will be key for us in 2016.”
MARK CRAZE
OWNER OF CRAZE MENSWEAR DONEGAL, CO. DONEGAL
“We had a very successful winter sale this year. While I didn’t notice a huge improvement on 2015, I was extremely happy by how things went for us. “Our winter sales started in early December where we offered a ‘Buy one, get one half-price’ discount across our range of jeans only, with the cheapest item being half-price. Then, on 27 December, this offer became available across all of our items and ranges – jumpers, shirts, T-shirts, everything. “I take this approach with sales because it helps me shift stock and gives me a better turnover. Donegal is a small town with a population of just 2,600 and I’ve noticed that my customers aren’t that drawn to sales with discounts but, instead, favour this type of approach. Our demo[graphic] would be late teens to mid-30s and the hero items for us during the sales were our shirts. “I have a number of plans for 2016, namely to develop my business. We’re expanding the premises and moving to a more central location. Of course, we will be introducing some new, exciting ranges as well. There is plenty in store.”
“We had an extremely positive sale this Christmas with a definite improvement on this time last year. We started on St Stephen’s Day at noon, just like 2015, and there was a fantastic turnout on the day – really excellent. We opened every day over the following week, including the bank holiday, and business was great, but after 1 January, we started to phase the sales out. “Earlier in the season, we took part in Black Friday and Cyber Monday and they both proved very popular – they also took the pressure off having to start our winter sales early. During the tough times, it seemed as if there was a race to start as early as possible but, thankfully, that’s no longer the case. “The weather played an enormous part this winter. It was only after Christmas that the weather became cold and wet. Up until then, coats were quite slow to sell but as the temperatures dropped, that completely changed. Overall, we moved a lot of stock and had a good sell-through. Sports jackets and waistcoats also proved really popular. “Looking ahead, we have plenty of new labels being introduced or reintroduced over the coming months. We are bringing back Levi’s for the first time since 2006 / ’07, and we’re also taking on Superdry casuals. “In our formalwear department, there is a shift in trends emerging. Where once blue reigned supreme amongst suits (not only was the wedding party in blue, but also the guests), there now appears to be a demand for variations. Check is going to be very popular, which is great to see as it helps mix things up.”
FEBRUARY 2016 | 21
VOXPOP
SARA FORRISTAL CO-PROPIETOR AT OLIVE’S DROGHEDA, CO. LOUTH
CLÍONA STANDÚN MANAGING DIRECTOR
STANDÚN’S, SPIDDAL, CO. GALWAY
WOMENSWEAR
SUSAN MULLIGAN OWNER OF HANGER BOUTIQUE 25 GEORGE’S STREET, WATERFORD, CO. WATERFORD
“Our sales went really well for us this year. We noticed an improvement on last year, which is always a good sign. We started our sales on 16 December, which was around the same date as 2014. To begin with, we offered 20 per cent discounts then 30 per cent following Christmas and, more recently, 50 per cent. By mid-January, we had cleared almost all of our stock. “The weather played a really big part on our sales this winter. On account of the fact that it was so mild leading up to Christmas, there wasn’t much of a demand for items like coats – then, as soon as the temperatures dropped, coats were all that our customers wanted! “In 2016, we have some exciting new labels being introduced while we’re resting some as well so ensure that everything remains fresh and current. We’re very optimistic.”
22 | FEBRUARY 2016
“We were thrilled with this year’s sales – in fact, they were our most successful in five years. We definitely saw that confidence was back and people were spending more money again. “Traditionally, Standún’s used to close for January and February and, as such, we always started our winter sales quite early. While we no longer close during these months, we have continued the tradition of early sales and this year, they began in mid-November. “Initially, we had discounts of 20 per cent across many of our lines, which were increased to 30 per cent in December. Then, in mid-January, deductions were between 40 and 80 per cent. The most popular items during our sales were our casual items, as opposed to our formalwear. Things like knitwear, coats and tops, for instance. There was a big increase in demand in January for coats because the weather suddenly dipped. “Looking ahead to 2016, we have many plans in place. It’s our 70th anniversary in October, so we will be marking that, of course. Other ideas relate to gift-wrapping and presentation, as well as developing our giftware ranges.”
“We noticed a slight increase in business during our sales this year in comparison to the year previously. We definitely felt that confidence continued to build throughout the year. “We started our sales on 28 December and offered a 25 per cent discount initially on all stock. As the sales progressed, we increased these discounts to 50 per cent. The weather took a sudden, drastic turn after Christmas so people were wrapping up once again – as such, there was high demand for our coats, jumpers, tops and trousers, in particular. “All in all, our separates proved more popular than our occasionwear stock - our customers would have made such purchases early in December for parties and various events meaning that there was little interest after Christmas. “Even though our sales are continuing and will run until the end of January, I have a feeling that our customers are beginning to get fed up of seeing ‘sale’ racks then getting annoyed if their sizes aren’t available. It’s no surprise that our S/S stock is getting plenty of attention already. Our customers are attracted to and captivated by the bright colours and fresh designs at the back of the store! “In 2016, we’re hell-bent on developing our online presence – introducing a website and being more active on social media. It demands a lot of resources and time, but we are definitely going to take a punt and see how we get on.”
VOXPOP
FOOTWEAR
JONATHAN RATH CO-OWNER AND INSTORE MANAGER OF SHOE STYLE INTERNATIONAL
THE BULL RING, WEXFORD, CO. WEXFORD
“We started our sales on 27 December, just like the year previously, and for the first two and a half weeks, business was very good and we were really happy with how everything went. “Throughout the A/W season, ankle boots were in huge demand and this interest carried through into the sales. In saying that, most of our ranges proved very popular – people were really drawn to value. Our discounts ranged from 10 per cent up to 50 per cent – the bigger discounts were placed on footwear with limited sizes or stock carried over from previous seasons. “Things might have been even better if it hadn’t been for the weather – it wasn’t very cold until the New Year; worse again, it was very rainy. But, now, we’re looking forward to the year ahead when we will be introducing new brands to keep things fresh and exciting. “We have a body of suppliers who we’ve collaborated with for over 25 years and we work together to source the new labels that will suit our demographic. We’re also planning on expanding so plenty to look forward to!”
MICHAEL GLEESON
OWNER OF MICHAEL GLEESON SHOES LTD 26 WILLIAM ST, LIMERICK, CO. LIMERICK
“In Limerick, most of the stores began their Christmas sales on 8 December, which is a pity, but on account of the fact that they were all at it, we joined them. Our winter sales this year didn’t set anything alight – people were interested in shoes that suited them more so than the discounts that were offered. “Limerick took a hit weather-wise on the two first Saturdays of December – the rain was horrific and, as a result, customers stayed away. This made the entire month difficult but we somehow managed to hold on to our figures. Thankfully, January was really great for us and we experienced a good lift. The weather has improved and confidence has returned. Hopefully, it’s an indicator of what’s to come in the year ahead. “In 2015, our boots didn’t really take off as we hoped – children’s boots and ladies’ high boots in particular – so we offered sizeable discounts across those ranges, from 30 per cent to 50 per cent. “We branched into comfortable and walking footwear last year – shoes for those with problem feet – and they proved hugely successful. So much so, we didn’t have to offer any discount on those ranges during the sales as they held their own.”
AUSTIN FINN
CO-OWNER OF FINN FOOTWEAR BALLYHAUNIS AND KILTIMAGH, CO. MAYO
“We did pretty okay throughout the winter sales. The weather, which often impacts on business, wasn’t the worst this year, thankfully. There was a big demand for winter boots, particularly as the temperatures started to drop after Christmas. In 2015, the buzzword was Sketchers – they were unbelievably popular. “Our sales started on 28 December. Last year, we started offering discounts before Christmas – 10 and 20 per cent – but this year we were able to hold back until after Christmas. We offered different discounts on different ranges – for example, 20 per cent off Skechers or 30 per cent off ladies’ boots. The sales continued well into January where we offered even further discounts such as 50 per cent off all Susst boots or all XTi footwear being reduced to €40. “We are going to introduce one or two new brands into our selection this year – every year we do this to make sure that we don’t become stagnant. There has been much talk about the uptick in the economy, but I wonder if that is more visible in the bigger towns and cities. “We are an independent business with two stores in Mayo – Ballyhaunis and Kiltimagh – and it can still be difficult for businesses in small towns where there wouldn’t be much footfall. In saying that, we are holding our own and doing well!”
FEBRUARY 2016 | 23
COLLECTIONS
DICE
Designed in Ireland by Brandwell and available from stock all year round, the Dice range features a comprehensive collection of gent’s accessories including shoes, wallets, belts, ties, bowties, scarves, hats, underwear and gift sets Belts are offered in a variety of styles and colours, ranging from classic suit belts in traditional dark tones to colourful high-quality leather belts with chunky metal fittings. The shoe collection encompasses both casual and formal styles, all of which are made using high-quality leathers and feature an impressive attention to detail Dice’s leather wallets, meanwhile, range from classic billfold designs to pocket-size shirt wallets and driver licence wallets. Also included in the collection is a diverse range of sunglasses, which incorporate a variety of styles from everyday classic frames to sporty wraparound shades and highfashion pieces in trendy large frames. Each pair features high-quality polycarbonate lenses with 400UV protection.
COOLWAY
A new addition to the Brazil Body (the distributor of FitFlo) table, Coolway is a Spanish brand that has already made a huge impact both in Europe and in the US. Set up in 2003, Coolway represents a third generation of a family shoemaking tradition and is renowned for its innovative approach to footwear and on-trend designs that target the fashion-conscious consumer seeking attractively priced footwear. Teaming comfort with functionality and fashion is key for the new AW collection. Here, androgyny and romance provide the inspiration for the classic cut styles for chunky heels, loafers and flatforms. Exaggerated and opulent materials such as patent leather and velvets have a strong presence, while comfortable sneakers, technical textiles, metallic materials are equally visible in the more sporty collection.
WINTER WARMERS CAMEL ACTIVE
The Camel Active Crossing Borders collection deals with overcoming limitations by changing perspectives. Unexpected and opposing features are combined in a new context. Camel Active footwear conveys these basic principles by mixing materials, textures and finishes. The palette encompasses different shades of black, grey and brown. Light natural colours and green round off the spectrum. Black, but also combinations of grey, taupe and cognac dominate women’s footwear. Style-wise, hybrids and sneakers inspired by running are the highlight for men, while hightop trainers and elegant boots stand out in the women’s range.
24 | FEBRUARY 2016
AW 16/17 COLLECTIONS
FITFLOP
A trendy blend of form and function, FitFlop’s AW16 range – which encompasses everything from ultra-comfortable shoes and clogs to sandals and fashionable boots – elevates the everyday into something utterly beautiful. Warm colours and soft textures add hints of glamour to a collection of chic footwear that offers styles and colours to suit all tastes. Each pair in the range is biomechanically engineered with FitFlop’s tripledensity Microwobbleboard or the brand’s slim but cushioned SupercomFF midsoles. Irish agent Peter Doyle is excited about the AW collection’s advanced technology. Shoes incorporate FitFlop’s new Anatomicush™ midsole technology, which is engineered to deliver incredible comfort, with soft curves shaped to hug the contours of the feet, seamless smart spots and a motionempowering grid of flex lines.
COLLECTIONS
GEOX
TAMARIS
AW16 ushers in a comprehensive collection that combines trend expertise with wearing comfort and design creativity. Tamaris impresses with its feelgood technologies developed especially for women, which are used in many different models. Assorted styles within the collection boast features such as the brand’s pateted Antishokk technology, removable insoles and ergonomicallyshaped insoles for walking without fatigue. A varied palette makes excellent use of cognac, which is beautifully reinterpreted on ankle and long-shafted boots in velour or nubuck. Elsewhere, soft cashmere colours in light grey and antique-finished beige make their presence felt. The trend in sneakers, meanwhile, is more black and white: dark uppers made from technical materials meet voluminous white soles. Black remains popular as a trend colour brogues, booties and ankle boots, while python prints continue to snake their way through the collection, used either all over or to decorate heels. Detailing is key for the season. Key features include natural rubber soles, block heels, square lasts, reptile looks and decorated heels. Technical materials come to the fore for the season, while studs and metallic finishes are also notable.
MARCO TOZZI
City sneakers continue to assert their sporty dominance into Marco Tozzi’s AW 16 collection. Whether with lightweight, bi-coloured EVA outsoles or with moulded outsoles, they will be the major trend as the season commences. These sneakers will feature new material combinations like reptile, crocodile, suedes and metallics. The outsoles will be upgraded with blends of EVA in colour duos with autumn-like profiles. Colours range from pewter and metallic to navy and Bordeaux combinations. Shoelaces and stylish booties, like sneakers, are indispensable. Besides classic brushed materials, aesthetic features like paints, brush-offs, and dégradé effects will play an important role. Boots and ankle boots with stylish details remain a major core theme.
FEBRUARY 2016 | 25
COLLECTIONS
SKOPES
Extensive and comprehensive, Skopes’ AW range features a fashionable yet commercial mix of on-trend and classic styles. Strong, earthy shades dominate a palette that fuses trendy colours with classic shades, while the material mix encompasses everything from tweed and melton – which feature in both tailored and classic fits – as well as soft flannel and chenille fabrics. Fashion highlights include a covetable winter chino, the rust-coloured Castlehill tweed jacket and the Swainby tweed jacket, which looks stylish in lovat with red check. In a diverse outerwear range, meanwhile, the Cromwell herringbone overcoat with velvet collar is updated with an elegant navy finish.
ETERNA Harmonious autumn colours, structured fabrics, new types of check and interpretations of well-known patterns are the key characteristics of a diverse AW offering from Eterna. Colours run the gamut from sombre and sophisticated to fun and fashionable. A host of new shades are found in the Urban Beats Dressy collection, which utilises rosewood, bluemoon and the cool triton green tone. Materials, meanwhile, include, as ever, highquality cotton, as well as cashmere flannel and peach poplin.
Highlights in the new collection are many but include the premium line, 1863, which features elegant fabrics of fine twill, high-quality natural stretch for a perfect fit and two-ply with a brilliant depth of colour.
26 | FEBRUARY 2016
B.YOUNG
A broad AW offering, the collection focuses on everyday garments and mix- and-match fashions at affordable prices. Rich and golden shades, as well as deep tones, dominate in a fashionable palette which fuses on-trend colours with classic shades. Stand-out designs include fashionable tops and luxuriously tactile knits in elegant autumnal tones. Knitwear also impresses with its flattering silhouettes, refined structures and organic shapes.
REMUS UOMO
COLLECTIONS
Sleek and sharp, AW16 sees Remus Uomo’s designers showcase garments that seamlessly fuse formal and casual wear styling, and that prominently features the label’s signature detailing in stitch, button and trim. Ink blues, navy, chambray and deep are notable in a diverse palette that makes exceptional use of rich greys across the collection, allowing for easy co-ordination of the respective garments. Accent colours such as teal, claret and aubergine inject a vibrant touch and allow the wearer to create a full look with ease. Texture is key for the season: jacquard weaves, bold checks and subtle geometrics create understated yet striking design throughout the tailoring and casualwear collections. Brushed and lofted ‘warm touch’ finishes are used for fine woollen suitings, while structured cotton and merino-wool blends are used for shirting and knitwear respectively. Italian-style tailoring results in suiting with a slim silhouette and slender trouser. A dapper touch is added elsewhere with the addition of rich ruby red and midnight blue dinner jackets.
LERROS
A comprehensive menswear offering, the AW16 collection is inspired by the great outdoors and is split into three categories – Creek, Forest and Mountains – accordingly. The seasonal palette focuses on masculine colours that clearly distance themselves from the usual uniform POS offerings in grey and anthracite tones. Assorted blue tones, teak brown and soft bottle green shades come to the fore at the start of the season. As the season progresses, tawny port (a new take on the classic Bordeaux red) and forest green, which provides a rich counterpart, are two prominent colours. Lerros’ designers have accentuated new fabric finishes through the use of structures and textured, micro-patterned surfaces. These, as well as assorted washes - cold dyes, acid washes and indigo dyes - and over-colouring, form an important part of the collection. Also key for AW is the brand‘s masculine take on ethnically inspired patterns and elements. Fashion highlights are several and include a strong shirt range that showcases a host of allover print, straight-cut, lightweight knit sweaters without elastic cuffs and hems, and unlined jackets made of super lightweight fabrics which ensure ultra-lightweight wearing comfort.
FEBRUARY 2016 | 27
TRENDS FOOTWEAR
GIVIN’ IT SOLE
T
he changing seasons and years often bring a sense of fear or anxiety. But, when it comes to footwear trends for AW16, at least, we can ease our concerns and look forward to elegant footwear fashion that will encourage us to open our minds, appreciate enthusiastic juxtaposition of culture, natural colours, scientific patterns, and fabrics that rebel against depleting global resources. Whether on the catwalks of the highend brands, or in the key AW footwear collections, a number of discernible trends are at play. Designers, it seems, have been finding inspiration in exotic juxtapositions that re-emphasise the humanity in imperfection when contrasted against geometric patterns and sharp lines. Elsewhere, as metallic patterns remind us the power of the computer age, tropical colours look to engage our appreciation for the natural. When it comes to the on-trend palette for the season, there is, as ever, a wealth of eye-popping shades and brights, yet the most popular shoe colours, according to the leading forecasters, will reflect natural tones and calming states. So, let’s get excited for the forthcoming AW16 season and celebrate the footwear industry trends that will help us embrace elegance and diversity at the same time. 28 | FEBRUARY 2016
John Lobb Patrick Cox
Marco Tozzi
Josef Seibel
Oliver Spencer
Legero
Jeffrey Campbell
Romika
Tabitha Simmons Mephisto Brandwell
PATTERNS SHOE TYPES Fashionistas can look forward to an array of styles ranging from casual to eclectic remixes of classic. Platforms, albeit in a modified form, are expected to make a re-appearance, while some of the more creative designers look to twist it up with combinations of unisex-appearing shoes paired with the historically feminine pointytoe heel. The result in coming year will be a slew of toe heels with less of a gender identity. And if that all sounds a bit too much ‘form over function’, relax: very flat flats will be on-trend once again in the ladies’ arena, providing a combination of simplicity and elegance.
Metallic decorations are likely to dominate in the forthcoming Aw16 season. Along the theme of futuristic patterns, we can also expect to see extravagant geometric laces that accentuate a contrast between the contours of a human foot and the precision of repeating lines. Elsewhere, digital prints will decorate shoes, placing an emphasis on fractal patterns and kaleidoscope-like symmetry. These patterns, according to the leading commentators, do not only represent an affront to imprisoned thinking, but also emphasise the power of unscientific curvature and the human counterexample to a digital, mathematical and precise world of expectation.
TRENDS FOOTWEAR
Camel Active
Chanel
Jana
John Lobb Vince Camuto
J Jill
Allrouder
Jimmy Choo
Caprice
Gerry Weber Officine Creative
Be Natural Pediped
Chloe Tom Ford
Josef Seibel
Primigi Superfit
FABRICS Camel Active
Sano
CULTURAL ELEMENTS As globalisation in our daily lives encourages cultural awareness and exploration, we can look forward to a dynamic range of influences inspiring our shoe designs. From Afro-Asian geometries to Indian explosions to unidentified villagewear, designers will mix and match unique elements from societies across the globe. While, as with any season, a mix of cultural elements will be apparent, it is expected that African styles will serve as the most referenced muse for the season’s most dominant trends.
COLOURS Extremes always catch our eyes but they might exhaust our senses when they are used too often. For AW16, we can appreciate a tonal calming as the colours reveal a peaceful take on the previously emphasised popping colour trend. The season will see things calming down with relaxed shades, such as light blues and other cold tones. The dedicated shoe-shopper can also look forward to embracing dusty tones that will highlight the elegant subtlety of natural tones. Among the most prominent breezy colours will be nude and light brown. A burst of colour, meanwhile, comes in the form of extremely energetic celebrations of sunshine with tropical colours and bright neon.
Shoe trends for AW16 will showcase numerous classic fabrics, but we can look forward to some attempts to bring experiment with novelty. While pearls and feathers have not traditionally been used as shoe fabrics, expect to see them used as the material we wear on our feet. Pearls are likely to be prominent on heels of high and thick-heeled shoes, while feathers will make an appearance on laces, toes and near the heel of our shoes. Good news, then, for the aspiring fashion peacock! The rising cost of leather in China is likely to make it more exotic for footwear. Consequently, the footwear market is likely to embrace leather shoe fabrics that expand and showcase what leather can do as a fabric. Rubber should make an appearance - especially with lace-up heels and juxtapositions of luxurious shoe types and normcore fabrics. FEBRUARY 2016 | 29
INTERVIEW
A FAMILY AFFAIR FOR ALMOST EIGHT DECADES, THE NAME JACK KIERNAN & SONS HAS BEEN SYNONYMOUS WITH FOOTWEAR IN MEATH. THE FAMILYRUN BUSINESS, WHICH BOASTS THREE STORES ACROSS THE TOWNS OF NAVAN AND KELLS, HAS BEEN SUCCESSFULLY KEEPING LOCAL CUSTOMERS IN SHOES SINCE THE 1940S. JACKSIE AND LOUISE KIERNAN, THE SECOND AND THIRD GENERATION OF THE THRIVING BUSINESS, SPOKE TO FOOTWEAR IN IRELAND RECENTLY TO DISCUSS THEIR WONDERFUL LEGACY, WHILE ALSO ATTEMPTING TO REVEAL THE SECRET BEHIND THEIR ENDURING POPULARITY
A
nybody hailing from Meath will be familiar with a certain retailer called Jack Kiernan & Sons. In fact, thanks to its unique relationship with the county’s football team - who has been kitted out in the latest footwear by the popular store for almost four decades - this family-run business is so much a part of the Royal County’s landscape that it could almost compete with Newgrange and Tara for being the area’s famous well-known landmark! In 1947, Jack Kiernan opened the first of these three stores in Kells, a busy town in the north of the county, and quickly developed a reputation for providing customers with reliable footwear and exemplary personal service. Some years later in 1968, his son, also called Jack but known locally and affectionately as Jacksie, decided to expand the family business and opened a second store on Navan’s main thoroughfare, Trimgate Street. The success of this expansion led to the subsequent introduction in 1981 of a third store, which is located in the town’s popular and wellknown shopping centre and is run by Jacksie’s brothers, Brendan and Jim. In his typical humble and generous spirit, Jacksie attributes the secret to the three stores’ success not on the Trojan work both he and his family have invested in them since the 1940s, but rather on the wonderful loyalty and unyielding support from their customers throughout the decades. 30 | FEBRUARY 2016
Jack Kiernan & Sons opened its third store in Navan Shopping Centre in 1981.
“We have had many generations of families visiting us over the years, with the grandchildren and even great grandchildren of some of the original customers now shopping in our stores,” he says fondly. “We also ensure that we offer the best personal service possible, something that really appeals to our customers.” In terms of stock, thanks to an avalanche of experience, Jacksie has been able to identify the styles and fits that appeal to these customers, providing them with great value footwear that will, most importantly, go the distance. “As an independent retailer, we specialise in providing comfort footwear for ladies, men and children – shoes that are practical and guaranteed to last, such as Clarkes,” Jacksie explains. “We also do great business across our sports ranges, whether it’s runners, boots or football kits.” Jacksie’s daughter Louise, who has also been hoodwinked into joining the family legacy, notes that it’s in the early part of the year when the popularity of their sporting footwear is at its peak; a season when people are actively trying to get fit. “There are shows like Operation
Transformation being aired at the start of the year that inspire people to go out and get healthy so January is quite an active month for us,” Louise mentions. “We are also very busy around September with parents purchasing shoes and runners for their children going back to school, while spring sees plenty of business with people shopping for communions, confirmations and weddings.” Speaking of sport, their connection to Meath’s football team has certainly stood them in good stead over the years as Jack Kiernan & Sons has been directly supplying the sporting heroes with their footwear since 1975. In more recent times, the players now receive vouchers so they can purchase their boots directly. On top of this, self-confessed football fanatic Jacksie has also organised tickets, buses, trains and even planes for the people of Meath on a regular basis so that they can support the team in the various matches that they play throughout the country. As such, Jack Kiernan & Sons stands alone as the go-to store in Meath for anything related to GAA, whether the customer is an athlete or an ardent fan.
INTERVIEW
Jacksie Kiernan with his daughter Louise represent the second and third generation respectively of the thriving family business.
“Definitely the highlight of my career was the golden years of Meath football from 1984 onwards,” Jacksie smiles, recalling the years when the stores played such an integral part in the team’s success. “Today, around six out of ten jerseys that we sell would go abroad. There are so many people from Meath who have emigrated to the U.S., Canada and Australia for work and it’s extremely important for them to stay connected to their identity and heritage so many parents and grandparents would bring them a jersey when they go to visit. “We have jerseys suitable for babies who are six months of age. And even if the father is from Dublin or somewhere further afield, so long as the mother is a proud Meath woman, she will make sure that her children follow in her footsteps and not their dad’s!” he jokes. Having been in business for such an impressive length of time, it is no surprise that Jacksie has seen many changes over years – and not just the varied success of the county’s football team (it’s been almost 16 years since the Sam Maguire graced the county with its presence). “People are extremely mobile these days, so it’s now very easy to travel to shopping centres such as Blanchardstown. They offer free parking, which is something that we can’t compete with here in Navan as we have paid parking in place throughout the town,” says Jackise. “In saying that, Trimgate Street has many
Men’s sports and casual shoes are a speciality of the Trimgate Street store.
Located centrally on Navan’s main thoroughfare, Trimgate Street, Jack Kiernan’s has been providing footwear for the town and beyond since 1968.
pubs, restaurants and stores that ensure that the heart of the town is alive and active. And even though internet shopping has taken off so much recently, I feel Irish customers will always value the personal experience of shopping – meeting people, chatting to them and being social – it’s something that’s in our nature.” That isn’t to say that Jack Kiernan & Sons isn’t going to embrace online shopping, having clearly recognised its importance in today’s current climate. Louise has already plans in place to expand on their current presence by developing a website for the three stores. “We had a website a little while ago,” she explains, “and it proved extremely popular with lots of interest, particularly from people who are abroad. It became apparent quite quickly that in order to maintain a
successful site, a lot of time and effort would be needed, something that we are willing to invest in our upcoming website. “Something that I noticed on our Facebook page was how popular photos of the latest football kits were with people living overseas. One thing is for sure: not matter where you go, you never forget your roots.” And to the future. Eager to see the family business continue for many years to come, Jacksie has already identified his future successors. “I have two grandchildren, one-and-a half and four, and I’m hopeful that they will continue the business for us in the years ahead,” he chuckles. With such a wonderful history behind them, these two young boys will certainly have big shoes to fill. FEBRUARY 2016 | 31
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