Futura April 2016

FUTURA APRIL 2016

SCHOOL OF THOUGHT

SPOTLIGHT ON THE IRISH SCHOOL UNIFORM SECTOR

SHOWTALK

REVIEWS AND PREVIEWS OF THE KEY TRADE SHOWS

VIEWPOINT: SOCIAL MEDIA

A MODERN DAY ESSENTIAL OR AN OVERRATED PHENOMENON?

28–30 JUNE 2016 THE EUROPEAN MARKETPLACE F O R L E A D I N G FA S H I O N B R A N D S WWW.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER

CONTENTS

A

4 NEWS

very warm welcome to our April issue.

Our focus for this edition is on school uniforms, a key component of the clothing industry. In addition to a summary of the major developments within this sector, we’ve put together the need-to-know on some of the country’s leading school uniform ranges.

With the trade season in full swing, our extended Shoptalk section includes reviews as well as reviews. From Moda and Momad Shoes to Pure and Panorama, they’re all covered.

Closer to home, a number of developments, openings and appointments have taken place in the domestic retail sector, all of which are covered in our News section.

Elsewhere, we look at the growing importance of Social Media and catch up with the owner of one the country’s most popular vintage fashion stores, Miss Daisy Blue.

Looking ahead, our forthcoming May/June issue - which has a copy date of 20 May - will focus on international trade events for the launch of the Spring / Summer 2017 season, with a detailed account of where to go and what to see for this new season.

We'll also be placing the spotlight on transportation and will have details on fastness and efficiency, as well as the companies that best suit the individual needs of your business to deliver your products on time, every time.

The need-to-know from the domestic and international fashion sectors

12 SCHOOL OF THOUGHT

The changing face of the Irish school uniform industry

17 THE OTHER SIDE OF

Fashion agent Cathy Ronayne

18 SHOWTALK

Reviews and previews of the key trade shows

21 FEELING BLUE

How Breda Casey has crated a thriving vintage fashion business in Cork

22 VIEWPOINT: SOCIAL MEDIA

How important is social media for fashion retailers?

In the meantime, we hope you enjoy the read!

Best wishes, Alexander Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

published by: Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main St., Rathfarnham, Dublin 14. Tel: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 email: mail@futuramagazine.ie web: www.futuramagazine.ie

Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre features editor: Alexander Fitzgerald sales & marketing manager: Avril Smith, avril@futuramagazine.ie assistant editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue printing: Swift Print Solutions Subscription Rate: €69 a year (RoI) or €89 a year (Rest of the World) © 2016 Sky Publishing . All Editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publisher.

Hunter Schoolwear by Derek Eakin

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 1

NEWS

NEWS LACK OF FOCUS ON RETAIL ECONOMY IMPACTS RETAIL INDUSTRY SALES Retail sales have weakened in recent weeks as a result of a lack of a Government and a lack of focus on the real economy, says Retail Excellence Ireland, the largest retail industry body in the country.

Speaking about the impact, Lynn Drumgoole, Head of Communication at Retail Excellence Ireland, said: “We are calling for the immediate formation of a Government and the need for a focus on the “real” economy. Retail in Ireland provides employment

to 280,000 people and is the country’s largest private industry. We require a real and immediate focus on the domestic economy in the way that previous Governments have focused on foreign direct investment (FDI) and support of export based businesses”.

Retail Excellence recently launched an 8-point plan calling on the government to act now to support the tentative recovery in the retail sector. The plan focuses on supporting Irish retail through reduction in taxes and positive actions to develop our towns and promote Ireland’s retail offer to potential visitors.

Key strands of the plan include reducing the cost of employment through a reduction in the employers PRSI rate, reducing consumer taxes and especially the 23% VAT rate, reducing the cost of doing business in Ireland, promoting Ireland’s world-class retail offer to potential visitors and assisting Irish retailers to go online and trade internationally.

Retail Excellence Ireland stresses the importance

LYNN DRUMGOOLE

of forming our next Government quickly so that decisions can be made to focus on the development of our retail industry.

“We cannot be complacent about our recovering economy and the longer we are without a decision making government which is focused on the real economy the higher the risk for that recovery, putting livelihoods at stake” concludes Lynn Drumgoole.

NEW FLAGSHIP STORE IN DUBLIN CITY CENTRE FOR MAGEE NEW DUBLIN SHOWROOM OPEN FOR DYRBERG/KERN Fashion label DYRBERG/KERN has opened a new showroom at Unit 39C in Phase 4 of Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24, where it is currently showing its AW collection.

The premises showcases what Cathy Ronayne, agent for the brand in Ireland, describes as an “an industrial meets rustic look.” This has been achieved via bare, striped-back walls mixed with exposed brick and high ceilings. High-wattage industrial dome fittings are teamed with spotlighting to highlight the collections, while rustic touches are added via a dramatic centrepiece: an 8-foot-long table made from 2 Futura Magazine | April 2016

reclaimed wood-stained pallets.

“We’re brought in plenty of foliage and flowers to soften the industrial edge,” Ronayne explains.

“With the permanent structures in place, it was easy to accessorise according to the theme and inspirations of each collection and clearly differentiate between seasons.”

Optimising the new space, the showroom is used to display four separate collections: the current collection, ‘Arts’ for S/S 16, ‘Northern Lights’ for A/W, and a mid-season collection. It also showcases the new DYRBERG/KERN men’s range, which was recently launched.

“Our showroom has to be able to encapsulate all of these different feelings, themes and styles and be able to take a buyer through an experience like no other,” Ronayne explains. “It is so important for us to present DYRBERG/KERN in a way that reflects and does justice to its high quality and design and its ability to change and update itself every season while still remaining highly commercial and relevant.”

To coincide with its 150th anniversary, Irish fashion brand Magee has opened a flagship store on Dublin’s South Anne Street.

Spanning two floors, with 2,206 sq feet at street level and 1,614 sq feet overhead, the new premises at 21-26 South Anne Street replaces the Wicklow Street premises from which Magee had been trading since 2003.

The ground floor of the new store carries classic menswear along with suiting for business and occasion wear, including the stylish yet affordable Essentials Suit Collection and the popular Heritage Suit Collection.

Overhead, the first floor features an extensive range of womenswear alongside the Magee Accessory Collection, which includes bags, scarves and pashminas, along with cushions, throws and a candle collection.

Established in 1866, originally as a small drapers shop in Donegal buying and selling hand-woven tweed, the Magee of today is a fourth-generation family-run business. It is steadily garnering a reputation as a luxury lifestyle brand, designing and creating men and women’s apparel and accessories, and since 2013, a range of home accessories.

NEWS

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April 2016 | Futura Magazine 3

NEWS

SEARCH FOR YOUNG DESIGNER OF THE YEAR 2016 BEGINS The search has officially begun to find the 2016 Young Designer of the Year as applications for entries opened on 4 April, 2016.

Now in its fourth year, young designers from across Ireland will have the chance to showcase their vision for fashion, and compete for the title of Young Designer of the Year at Ireland’s largest fashion event.

The 2016 judging panel, made up of Ireland’s leading fashion commentators, icons, designers, and buyers, are in search of the most creative and innovative designs that can own the runway. The panel includes the Irish Independent’s Fashion Editor, Bairbre Power (head judge); acclaimed fashion photographer, Barry McCall; TV3’s Head of Day Time, Debbie O’ Donnell; owner of the Design Centre at Powerscourt Centre, Aisling Kilduff; and Director of Fashion & Beauty in Arnotts, Deirdre Devaney.

Last year’s winner, Katie Donohue, is preparing to pass on her Young Designer 2015 title after a very successful year; she is now in the final two months of the Honours Degree course in Fashion at Griffith College Dublin, where she is halfway through completing a six-piece graduate collection. When Donohue finishes her studies, she plans to begin the process of launching her own label and making her mark in the Irish fashion industry.

From all entries received, the judges will choose 12 finalists to take part in an outdoor fashion show on the grounds of the Bank of Ireland on College Green, Dublin on the evening of Wednesday 7 September, 2016. The designers’ pieces will be showcased in front of an invited audience of key fashion influencers including fashion media, fashion buyers and established designers.

THALIA HEFFERNAN WEARING YOUNG DESIGNER KATIE DONOHUE’S WINNING OUTFIT DURING THE 2015 YDOY FASHION SHOW

Speaking about the open call for applications for this year’s Young Designer of the Year, DublinTown’s Director of Marketing & Communications and Dublin Fashion Festival Director, Clyde Carroll commented: ‘’Through the past three years of this competition we have showcased 36 finalists and crowned three exceptional winners. The designs we receive from the young Irish designers get better and better each year.

“All of us here in DublinTown, along with our judges, are very excited to see what comes through the process this year. We’ve a huge amount of talent in this country for fashion design and we’re delighted that the festival can be used as a platform to showcase and support our young designers. There is no cost to enter this competition so I would encourage any young designer to enter.”

Application forms for Young Designer of the Year can be found online at dff.ie

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4 Futura Magazine | April 2016

JAMES ALLEN MENSWEAR & HOME DRAPERY FOR SALE Following 40 successful years’ trading in his Farrell Street premises in Kells, Co. Meath, with the assistance of family and staff, James Allen has decided to retire and sell the business.

Since opening in 1976, the local community and hinterlands have strongly supported his business which caters for all age groups, from 18 years old to 80 years plus.

The menswear and home drapery business – which caters for all age groups, from 18 years to 80+ - has always maintained an excellent relationship with suppliers and offers a host of renowned fashion brands, including Remus Uomo, Magee, Swallow Knitwear, Kellerman, Drifter, Bennetti, and Gabicci.

The double-fronted, two-storey store has a strong, guaranteed school wear business serving uniforms and PE wear to local and outlying primary and secondary schools. James Allen has always maintained the three core principals which are important elements of successful trading in good times and through recessionary periods: quality of goods, value for money and, above all, personal and attentive service.

Convenient urban parking is available across the extensive frontage of the premises. With the potential to double the retail floor space in the building coupled with the rental potential of up to seven rooms on the first floor, this business and property offers a unique opportunity for a business person to ‘hit the ground running’ with continued momentum, rather than from a standing start.

The business continues to trade until a sale is in place, ensuring no loss or drifting of the retail momentum. For further details, contact T. & J. Gavigan, Auctioneers on Tel: 046 924 0045 or at email: kells@reatgavigan.ie

FLAIRLINE CLOSES ITS FASHION CITY SHOWROOM Flairline Fashions Limited, the Irish company which runs Pamela Scott, has closed its showroom at Fashion City.

Owned by businessman Sean Barron and his family, Flairline Fashions was founded in the 1970s and has grown in the interim into one of Ireland’s most successful retail chains.

The closure of the Ballymount showroom is indicative of the company’s decision “to concentrate on retail”, according to Robert Barron, a director of Flairline Fashions.

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NEWS

NEW IRISH TV SHOW CELEBRATES IRISH MILLINERS Thursday 24 March saw the broadcast of debut episode of The Hat Show, a new television programme which was presented by Emily O’Donnell and showcased the amazing talent of Irish milliners who are putting a stamp on the fashion industry worldwide.

Kate Middleton, Sarah Jessica Parker

and Lady Gaga are just a few famous names that have supported Irish hat designers in recent months, and across the six-part series, fashionista Emily O’Donnell meets those creative milliners responsible.

“I was blown away by the wealth of Irish millinery talent that exists within Ireland and delighted to be able to provide a platform for these people to showcase their work, I enjoyed every minute of making The Hat Show,” revealed O’Donnell.

The presenter and her crew travelled the length and breadth of the country to meet with the milliners.

“We have people from all walks of life, people of different ages with different stories,” O’Donnell explained.

EMILY O’DONNELL

DYRBERG/KERN LAUNCES BRAND NEW JEWELLERY CONCEPT IN IRELAND DYRBERG/KERN

NEW BOARD APPOINTMENTS FOR DOUGLAS & GRAHAME Douglas and Grahame Ltd, one of the UK’s leading brand houses supplying contemporary men’s and boyswear, has welcomed two new additions to its Board of Directors.

Managing Director Donald Finlay commented: “As the sector recovers from the financial crisis, we felt it was right to take the necessary steps to bolster our internal resources and the company’s expertise to help us drive sustained growth for the future.

“Our new directors will complement our other recent Senior Management Team appointments in sales and marketing to add even greater focus and wider industry experience to our company.”

The new appointments see Donald’s son, 6 Futura Magazine | April 2016

Danish jewellery brand DYRBERG/KERN has recently launched an entirely new jewellery concept.

As a part of the over-all sales strategy, Ireland is one of the few and select countries to launch the concept, which is called COMPLIMENTS by DYRBERG/KERN

Adam Finlay, join the Board of Directors with responsibility to lead the outerwear product division and the development and communication of the company’s brand portfolio.

Adam joined the company in 2011 and has been under the mentorship of his uncle, Richard, to develop his knowledge of the companies tailoring offering and, as Brand Manager, has played a key role in the company’s brand strategy.

Andrew Lowden will join the company as Business Development Director from his current role as Managing Director of Cooneen at Work, a specialist workwear company. Mr Lowden, who has a considerable leadership background in fashion manufacturing and branding from previous roles with a number of companies including Coats Viyella and Glenaden Shirts, will oversee the further development of the company’s retail, wholesale and export strategies.

Douglas & Grahame, headquartered in Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim, produces clothing under a number of leading menswear brands including Douglas, Remus Uomo, Wellington and Daniel

and reflects the expansion of the brand’s otherwise seasonal collection portfolio.

The new jewellery concept is both simple and recognisable in its concept yet also strong and unique. It is based on the concept of a ring system that can be transformed into an accessory to fit all moods, looks and personalities. The wearer simply twists the ring and changes its appearance, choosing from 60 different toppings and 40 different ring bands.

With the continuing strategy to produce more toppings to meet both the need from the consumer to collect more toppings, and to fit the seasonal trends, the concept’s build-in durability is evident and one DYRBERG/KERN will roll out in the coming months.

ADAM FINLAY

Grahame as well as school uniforms and boys’ formal and casual clothing under the 1880 CLUB brand. The company sells through a large network of wholesale customers as well as its own e-commerce site and retail outlets operated under its subsidiary company, Italian Apparel.

NEWS

WINTER 2016

ALL THINGS VINTAGE With the trend for shabby chic permeating every angle of retail at the moment, Morplan has added a huge collection of products to its 5,000-strong range to meet the increasing demand for anything retro, deconstructed or reclaimed.

From genuine fruit crates ideal for creating shelves, plinths and even counters to Urban, a scaffold-style wall system; and from carrier bags in delicious ‘50s-inspired ice cream colours to Vintage Fayre, a lovely sale promotion range, you’re sure to find something to enhance your retail theme.

For a complete revamp, take a look at the Heritage and Cargo collections, which are stocked in a choice of finishes and include shelving units, counters and display stands, all of which can be teamed with chalkboards to create a lovely farmhouse look.

There are over 5000 products from stock and delivery is priced at €15 (exceptions apply). Further details on + 44 (0)1279 624 600 and online at morplan.com.

GERARD ANTHONY MENSWEAR OFFER AFTER CLOSURE OF SLIGO HOTEL Following the sudden closure of Sligo’s Cromleach Lodge Hotel, an announcement that caused chaos to the plans of soon-to-be brides and grooms, Leitrim’s Gerard Anthony Menswear revealed its charitable side by offering affected wedding parties sizeable discounts across their rental options.

In an online statement, the Carrick-on-Shannon business said it was, “such a pity to hear that Cromleach Lodge has closed,” and that they “felt for all the distressed brides and grooms and their families who have made wedding plans there and are out of pocket after losing their deposit.”

It continued by saying: “Just to ease the financial burden on the bride and groom at this stressful time, we will offer any of our wedding hire packages at half price.”

Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street · GB - London W1T 1PB Tel.: +44-207-636 4207 · Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 7

NEWS

VICTORIA’S SECRET WILL TAKE THE EXISTING BT2 PREMISES ON GRAFTON STREET

JOBS SAFE DESPITE BT2 CLOSURE It has been revealed that the staff at the Grafton Street branch of BT2 will not be directly affected by the closure of the branch early next year.

The popular clothing emporium, often seen as a younger, less expensive alternative to the offerings in Brown Thomas, will be replaced by Victoria’s Secret, America’s most famous lingerie company.

The decision to close the branch, despite the success of the brand, came following the admission that it was simply too near the main BT store, only metres away. It has also been suggested that rent reviews and potential refit costs were additional factors in the decision.

BT2 will soon set up shop in Brown Thomas instead where staff from both branches will merge together.

NEW IRISH AGENT FOR ABBACINO

ABBICINO AW16

Jackie Roche of Jackie Roche Craft & Design has been appointed the new agent for Abbacino Handbags & Accessories in Ireland.

In her new role, Roche will look after the Spanish brand’s sales throughout the country.

“I am looking forward to growing the Abbacino stunning collection within the Irish market,” said Roche.

The label’s AW16 collection features a host of casual, everyday garments with carefully chosen touches and artisanal elements with materials such as wool, tassels of all kinds, or embroidery.

8 Futura Magazine | April 2016

AVOCA SEES OVERSEAS GROWTH Avoca, the popular Irish brand, is experiencing excellent traction overseas, particularly in Japan and the U.S., according to reports. Ivan Pratt, the company’s Head of Sales, has described the growth as “sizeable”.

The uptick is largely down to the fact that Avoca decided to increase the amount of fabric being made in its County Wicklow mill rather than purchasing from third parties. This move has allowed the company to have full control over their own unique designs, something that has proven extremely popular with the like of Bloomingdale and Anthropologie in America as well as Isetan in Japan and additional markets in countries such as South Korea.

Overall, Avoca – which was sold last year to U.S. group Aramark for €60 million - currently boasts over a thousand wholesale accounts worldwide, although the lion’s share of these are found in Ireland and the U.K. where they have north of 240 accounts.

Despite its sale, Avoca is scheduled to open a new store – its twelfth – in Dunboyne, Co Meath in the autumn. This is being developed at a cost of €3m and will generate 80 jobs when it opens.

Avoca managing director Simon Pratt said the outlet will be the company’s “most ambitious to date”, adding how “the location is superb and will attract consumers from west Dublin, Meath, Kildare and beyond, looking to enjoy the Avoca experience”.

The four-acre site will have 35,000 sq ft of retail space, split between a café, food market and mixed retail, as well as parking for 300 cars.

According to Avoca, the site, adjacent to the M3, is within 30 minutes’ travel time of a population of more than one million people.

MODELS WEARING HELEN CODY

FASHION SHOW TO SUPPORT ARC CANCER SUPPORT CENTRES Ireland’s biggest fashion show, the ARC Fashion Show, returned to the RDS in Dublin 4 on 4 April at the RDS in Dublin.

Produced by Edmond Shanahan, the event - which attracted a crowd of almost 800 showcased a mix of the best-established names alongside the finest innovative newcomers.

TV Presenter Claire Brock was the guest of honour on the night, while Ireland’s leading luxury store, Brown Thomas, came on-board for the third year to show its continued support for Irish design.

Highlights of the event included a spectacular millinery collection which was specially created for the show by six milliners - Martha Lynn, Aisling Ahern, Margaret O’Connor, Elaine Keogh, Aoife Kirwan and Davina Lynch. Irish fashion designers whose creations were shown on the catwalk included Heidi Higgins, Emma Manley, David O’Malley, Mariad Whisker and Helen Cody, as well as rising star Fintan Mulholland who presented a special collection for the show.

All funds raised on the night go to ARC Cancer Support Centres, which offer a range of free support to those affected by cancer.

Y

NEWS

GLOBAL PUBLICATION ISSUES WARNING OVER IRISH ECONOMY A recent editorial in Bloomberg shared its concerns about the Irish economy, warning that booms can suddenly turn to busts.

With a general consensus that things are on the up here, the respected financial newswire questioned whether history was repeating itself and if another crash was on the horizon.

The editorial discussed Ireland’s soaring economic performance - that boasted a gross domestic product uptick of seven per cent over the past 12 months – but was reminded of the boom before the economic crash of 2010.

Granted, the editors deduced that such a catastrophe was unlikely to reoccur, but they recommended that a degree of caution and even scepticism prevail in order to foster sustainable growth. While the report acknowledged that new jobs are no longer concentrated around the bubble-prone construction industry and the country’s banks are also in good shape, it noted that advantageous factors such as cheap energy and a devalued euro may not last long-term.

“Complacency would be an error, triumphalism even more so. The watchword for the government should be safety first,” they wrote.

“At enormous cost to taxpayers, the system has been repaired. Authorities restored solvency, set up a bad-asset agency, kicked out bad management and liquidated banks that were beyond redemption. It took several rounds of [recapitalisation], amounting to some 40 per cent of GDP. “Still, it’s a job only partly done. Long-term mortgage arrears remain among the highest in Europe. This overhang of debt weighs on consumption.

“The government has tried to encourage more lending to small and medium companies, but the failure to restructure bad loans has hampered that effort.

“The expansion has boosted tax revenue and improved the government’s fiscal position, but it continues to run a budget deficit after correcting for the effects of the economic cycle. With parliamentary elections due next year, the government has yielded to temptation, adding tax cuts and higher spending on health and other programs to the budget. It would be better to make faster progress in reducing public debt.

It reached more than 120 per cent of GDP in 2013 and is now just under 100 per cent — still too high.

“The mix of public spending needs attention, too.

Investment in transportation, energy and broadband infrastructure — essential for sustained growth — is too low. Savings should be found elsewhere in the budget to pay for more.”

KILDARE VILLAGE ENJOYS SIZEABLE SALES INCREASE Kildare Village, the country’s most popular outlet store, experienced an increase in sales in 2015 despite the fact that building works were on-going during this period.

The budget clothing emporium witnessed sales increase by 26 per cent last year, a performance that David Atkins, the chief executive of Hammerson, one of its shareholders, described as “spectacular”.

The Leinster outlet appears to be reaping the benefits from the recovery in the economy coupled with the boom in tourism figures. The centre, which includes Calvin Klein, Superdry, Armani and Gucci stores, is particularly popular with Chinese visitors.

A €50 million extension to the centre, which added 30 luxury boutiques, officially opened in October of last year.

You are unique.

Your jewellery should be too You are unique.

Your jewellery should be too

COPENHAGEN COPENHAGEN

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 9 Contact: Cathy/Ronayne / Rogue Agencies 39C Fashion City, Ballymount Industrial Industrial Estate, Dublin 24 / Ph: / Email: cr@dyrbergkern.com Contact: Cathy Ronayne Rogue Agencies / 39C/Fashion City, Ballymount Estate, Dublin 24 0868379698 / Ph: 0868379698 / Email: cr@dyrbergkern.com

NEWS

PURE LONDON IS SHORTLISTED FOR BEST TRADE SHOW The shortlist for this year’s EN Awards has been announced, with Pure London shortlisted for Best Trade Show amongst seven others including Autumn Fair, 100% Design, London Vet Show and Business Travel Show. The EN Awards will be held on the 28 April at Park Plaza, Westminster.

Pure London recently finished on a high for its A/W’16 edition held mid-February at Olympia, Kensington. Over the last three seasons, the show has made a significant transformation with buyers and retailers from around the globe seeking out new brands, new collections, and inspiration for the season ahead.

“Pure London is an unparalleled event within the fashion industry. With menswear brands and luxury Pure Premium recently joining the hundreds of exhibitors and designers from all over the world, it is no surprise to hear that Pure London has been nominated for Best Trade Show,” Bryony Stone,

Editor of Wonderland Magazine, revealed.

Pure London thrives on newness each season and, over the years, has introduced a number of new sections including Pure Menswear, Pure Premium, Premium Footwear, Capsule Collections from new and emerging brands and many more. Pure London holds prestigious awards such as The Buyers Power List, The Best of British and The Display Awards to recognise the hard work of brands and buyers who are excelling in business and driving change and innovation in the arena of fashion retail.

Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Pure London commented: “We are delighted to have been shortlisted for this award, we have worked hard to make the show an all-important and inspiring

SUMMER SPECIAL

order-writing event on the buying calendar.

“A huge thanks goes to all of our brands and the buyers involved in supporting us throughout this journey. We have received numerous amounts of positive comments on the energetic vibe and themes throughout the shows; to be shortlisted is a testament to all of our customers.”

Pure London has announced plans for S/S’17 and will ensure the same creativity and newness is to be carried on for the show in July 2016. The new theme for S/S’17 is ‘A Life Less Ordinary’, derived from WGSN key trends and inspirations for the upcoming season.

The next edition will take place from 24-26 July 2016 at Olympia London.

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NEWS

TUZZI FINDS NEW OWNERS MEGHAN TRAINOR SHOOTING FOR SKECHERS

SKECHERS DEBUTS GLOBAL MARKETING CAMPAIGN STARRING MEGHAN TRAINOR Skechers and Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Meghan Trainor have teamed up for a new multi-platform marketing campaign to launch the Skechers Originals retro sneaker collection.

Trainor’s first television commercial for the campaign will feature the hit single No from her sophomore album Thank You. A preview of the global TV campaign was recently revealed with behindthe-scenes images from the set. The overall campaign recently kicked off with print ads, online and in-store images as well as via Meghan’s social media channels, and has already influenced her millennial fans who are positively impacting sales of the new collection.

“I can’t wait to travel the world and see my face in Skechers stores – it still blows my mind! It’s an honour and dream to work with a big brand like Skechers,” said Trainor on the set of her Skechers commercial.”

According to Skechers president Michael Greenberg: “Meghan is an inspirational artist with many impressive accomplishments at only age 22, so we’re thrilled to be working with her on this global campaign for Skechers Originals.”

Trainor’s partnership with Skechers extends through 2017 across all media platforms including television, print, online, social media, outdoor and point of purchase. Skechers has a long history of working with Grammy-winning female recording artists including Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera and Carrie Underwood.

Multi-platinum selling recording artist and actress Demi Lovato is also featured in a current global Skechers marketing campaign that will extend through the end of 2016.

REVENUE ON THE RISE FOR NEW LOOK The Irish arm of fast-fashion chain New Look posted pre-tax profits of €1.8 last year.

New Look Retailers (Ireland) recorded revenues of €64.5m in the financial year to 28 March last, an increase of more than 60% from a figure of €60.7m the previous year.

New Look, which currently operates 29 stores throughout Ireland and employed 708 people last year, has had an Irish presence since 2003.

The group said that a strong performance in Ireland had offset tough trading conditions in other European countries.

TUZZI AW16

Germany’s Frank Walder, which boasts over 60 years’ experience, has recently acquired clothing empire Tuzzi - with the brand rights as well as production and delivery of the A/W’16 collection being transferred to the new owner.

While the parties have agreed not to disclose any information on the terms and conditions, it is known that the Tuzzi headquarters will remain in Düsseldorf, while Michael Bax, who has been with Tuzzi since 2010, will continue to support the company in an advisory capacity.

Tuzzi was first established in Fulda in 1971. Over the past few seasons, the collections have been streamlined and modernised with sales rising as a result. Tuzzi currently serves approximately a thousand PoS worldwide and claims an export share of 50 per cent.

This takeover is a possibility for Frank Walder “to enter into an attractive, younger women’s fashion segment for trend-focused women from their mid30s,” says Herbert Pircher, the company’s General Manager.

The new owners employ north of 400 employees worldwide, producing over a million garments annually. The key to their success is their interpretation of trends into fashionable and wearable looks – and what is becoming more commonplace – in sizes ranging from continental size 36 to 52.

Tuzzi’s agent in Ireland is McGurk Fashion Group.

D o u b l e T WO EXCITING OPPORTUNITY FOR AN EXPERIENCED LADIESWEAR SALES AGENT Double TWO is a family owned business, founded in 1940 and is famous for creating the original “Shirt with two detachable collars” .We are now recruiting for an experienced Sales Agent to sell our range of LADIES blouses, dresses & jackets throughout the Whole of Ireland. We offer 2 collections per year (Spring Summer / Autumn Winter) and are looking for someone to add our range to there already successful stable of brands, preferably aimed at the 40+ market place. We will support you with a full set of samples / swatches / POS along with the backing of a Sales Director & a team of designers and customer service professionals based at our head office in Wakefield. We are able to pass on some existing accounts and turnover but would be looking for someone to infiltrate the independent stores and groups to develop the business. We offer a competitive commission structure and offer seasonal bonuses based on new business acquired. If you have the necessary skills and experience required please send your CV with covering letter to: Barbara.lawton@wsg.co.uk or post it to Barbara Lawton, C/O Double Two Limited, PO Box 1, Thornes Lane Wharf, Wakefield, WF1 5RQ. All interviews will be held in Ireland if preferred.

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 11

SCHOOL UNIFORMS

SCHOOL OF THOUGHT In a time when the future of Ireland’s school uniform industry hangs in the balance, Futura puts the spotlight on the many shifts that are currently taking place In recent years, there has been much heated debate in Ireland regarding the issue of uniforms and whether schools should revise age-old policies that insist upon their charges wearing specialised items such as blazers, jumpers, trousers and skirts, thereby making the term year more affordable for parents and guardians.

On this side of change are prolific organisations such as St. Vincent de Paul and Barnardos who, along with familyfriendly groups including Mummypages. ie, have expressed grave concerns over the high costs on families when kitting out their child or children each September. What’s more, according to a survey conducted by the aforementioned website, where over 1,200 mothers were interviewed, 88 per cent felt that uniforms were ‘unnecessarily expensive’.

In support of these claims, it has emerged that, last summer, authorities witnessed a sizeable surge of applications for the back-to-school allowances – worth €100 for primary-school children and €200 for second-level students.

And so, many alternative suggestions have been put forward such as removing uniforms altogether or allowing pupils and students to wear more generic options instead – items that can be purchased in supermarkets, places that would be more sympathetic to families’ budgets. Additionally, to ensure that schools do not lose their individual identity, it has been proposed that crests - that cost as little as a euro - can then be sewn on. Indeed, the Mummyspage.ie group has even created a ‘Can the Crest’ campaign to push for legislation to recognise these wallet-friendly amendments.

On the other side, however, professionals within the fashion industry, often under the voice of the School Uniform Association, have been resisting such measures and have argued on numerous occasions that such a drastic shift would lead to irremediable damage that would not only result in the loss of much-needed employment but the disappearance of vital businesses in the community. And, in the case of schools abolishing uniforms in their entirety, a rise in bullying might even emerge.

And it seems that these viewpoints are in line with those felt by a large portion of parents and guardians the country over. In late 2013, a survey issued by the Department of Education that aimed to give parents a stronger voice in key decisions in schools revealed that while there was a demand to explore cheaper options, 12 Futura Magazine | April 2015

there was an extreme reluctance to remove uniforms from schools.

“The results of the survey found that an overwhelming majority wanted schools to retain uniforms,” says Karen Grant, chairperson of the School Uniform Association. “In fact, we found parents’ attitudes towards uniforms were extremely positive.”

Furthermore, much weight has been placed on how counterproductive it can be, purchasing uniforms from supermarkets that are markedly cheaper, arguing that parents or guardians are, essentially, buying into a false economy as these garments boast questionable quality, which will result in pupils and students requiring up to three uniforms in one school year. Specialised uniforms, on the other hand, are extremely durable – ideal for young people who are susceptible to falling and tumbling - and, according to their manufacturers, can last the wearers a handful of years.

“The School Uniform Association liaised closely with the Parents’ Association, and they are extremely aware of the importance of quality materials such as a strong, long-lasting wool,” Ms Grant explains.

And in terms of the Irish exchequer, the School Uniform Association also argues that sourcing uniforms from foreign multiples will only see money go out of the country rather than keeping it within.

“According to the ISME, for every €10 spent on Irish goods in an Irish-owned store, €25 will return to the economy,” Ms Grant mentions. “For every €10 spent in a foreign multiple, just €12 returns to the economy. The difference is considerable.”

Moving forward, having heard the concerns of families, the School Uniform Association is now working closely with the Parents’ Association to lobby the government to abandon the 23 per cent VAT on uniforms thereby bringing prices down and making the school year more affordable for all.

“The then Minister of Education, Ruairí Quinn, was determined to change school policies in relation to uniforms – hence the surveys being sent out to parents,” Ms Grant reports. “But, we met with him and he has since apologised. He has acknowledged that his figures were

Deer Park Schoolwear

inaccurate and he said that he was, as he put it, ‘misinformed by a normally reliable source’.”

Ms Grant continues by saying that Minister Quinn has subsequently appreciated the real value of specialised school uniforms to the economy and to employment.

“In spite of everything, we have a lot to be optimistic about,” Ms Grant insists. “But, there’s still a lot of work to do in order to succeed in removing the VAT rates.”

DEER PARK SCHOOLWEAR

While other brands come and go, Deer Park, with its quality-conscious team of 50 local employees, has continued to knit its school jumpers in Ireland for the past 32 years. In addition to enabling them to offer the highest quality school jumper on the market, shorter lead-times on repeat orders is a major advantage on choosing this Irish manufactured brand.

Aside from its hugely popular knitwear range, Deer Park provides retailers with a huge selection of quality uniform products, including shirt and blouses, jackets, fleeces, ties and scarves, as well as a full embroidery design service.

Re-launched last year, Elements by Deer Park offers retailers and schools a fashionable collection of school jackets and softshells that students are happy to wear and an alternative to the traditional bulky jacket.

SCHOOL UNIFORMS

Hunter Schoolwear

HUNTER SCHOOLWEAR

UNIFORM OR SPORT AVAILABLE FROM STOCK

Derek Eakin was a man with a vision when he created Hunter Schoolwear (hunterschoolwear.ie) in 1980. Some 36 years later, staying true to his family ethos and tradition, the brand is one that is recognised for incorporating quality with value for money.

The Hunter Schoolwear team has the knowledge and experience to offer a personalised service to each and every customer, from initial discussions to the delivery of the designed uniform.

Distributed from its 40,000 sq ft warehouse in Cavan, Hunter Schoolwear runs the gamut from shirts and blouses to skirts, pinafores, jackets, trousers and knitwear. The collection also includes accessories such as socks, ties and bags, as well as sportswear and tracksuits. A comprehensive back-up service is offered throughout the year.

To complement their uniforms, an in-house embroidery and printing service is available. A crest or logo on a garment is an additional benefit, personalising and reinforcing a school ethos.

Retailers interested in stocking the Hunter Schoolwear range are assured of discovering all their needs under the one roof. Further details online at hunterschoolwear.ie

1880 CLUB

View the complete range of Result outerwear and SPIRO activewear online 14 Futura Magazine | April 2015 | spiroactivewear.com resultclothing.com

Leading schoolwear brand 1880 CLUB, is one of the most recognisable brands in the UK & Irish schoolwear market and has created a thoroughly ‘comprehensive’ range for children and young adults.

Part of the Douglas and Grahame Brand House, 1880 CLUB prides itself on being “built for the classroom but durable enough for the rigours of the playground!”

Douglas and Grahame’s nearly 100 years of tailoring heritage is evident in every 1880 CLUB garment, through the quality of manufacture and the higher specification fabrics used throughout the range.

The company develop the fabrics and design every garment in the 1880 CLUB schoolwear range for its ability to perform well – even beyond reasonable wear and tear. 1880 CLUB schoolwear is a range of garments that are Easy Iron and enhanced with TEFLON™ - offering improved laundering, increased durability and resistance to staining.

The current range spans blazers, shirts, ties, trousers, skirts and knitwear - all of which are available in a wide choice of colours to suit any school and can be adapted to specific institutions with bespoke embroidered badges and trims.

1880 CLUB Schoolwear has been offering high quality schoolwear for over 40 years, meaning we have been part of more than one generation’s schooldays! But the brand continues to move with the times, offering refined

SCHOOL UNIFORMS

1880 Club

cuts and fabrics for more modern aesthetics and continuing to improve the product with the latest fabric technology and treatments.

With a new website at www.1880CLUB.com, the brand is the perfect choice for parents looking for the best when it comes to dressing their children for school.

Result

RESULT

Outdoor garment brand Result offers a rich inventory of stock styles through its trade distribution network.

Its Youth & Junior range covers a variety of comfortable, multipurpose jackets constructed to withstand the rough and tumble of everyday school and leisure activities and where necessary, are fully EN1462 cord compliant.

The bedrock of the range is the R160J&Y Reversible Stormdri 4000 fleece jacket, Result’s best-selling, reversible waterproof and windproof jacket. Available in both youth and junior sizes, the high-quality garment offers two jackets in one; with a plush 280g/m² fleece to one side and a fully waterproof polyester with taped seams to the other. The

• Complete School Uniforms • Stock Service through the year • Embroidery & Printing In House DEREK EAKIN LTD Tel +353 (0) 49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.hunterschoolwear.ie April 2015 | Futura Magazine 15

SCHOOL UNIFORMS jacket features a concealed hood in the collar with tear release fastening, storm stuff reflective patch on the upper back (fleece side) and 3M™ Scotchlite™ reflective materials for added visibility in low light conditions and pill resistant fleece. It is available in assorted colourways and sizes.

Result Core Value is a budget-friendly collection of low-cost promotional outerwear offering genuine value for money with simple yet durable styles that can be easily decorated and worn all year round.

Each product has been carefully designed and formulated to be highly competitive on pricing.

Other garments in the collection include Core R200J Junior Safety Vest, a light, fully certified, EN1150 polyester safety vest which can be worn as an over-garment and which features an easy-tear release front fastening for quick and easy removal; Result’s Core R203J&Y Junior & Youth Microfleece Lined Jacket, which is both waterproof (2000mm) and windproof; and the Core R207J&Y Junior & Youth Winter Parka, a multi-purpose jacket which offers excellent weatherproof protection.

The complete range of Result’s junior and youth outdoor wear is available through its distributors who offer exceptional customer service.

Further details online at resultclothing.com

2

1984 - 2016

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND.

School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, Scarves and Ties MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service.

AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare.

T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie

Spiro Schoolwear

SPIRO SCHOOLWEAR

Founded as the activewear division of Result, Spiro has become synonymous with providing co-ordinated garments to complete a team wear look.

Spiro’s Junior activewear range is ideal for school and extracurricular sports events, lessons and activities and beyond, and features the same optimum technical performance as the adult range.

Stand-out designs in the collection include the S253J Junior Quick Dry T-shirt - available in sizes S/M/L/XL (ages 5-6, 7-8, 9-10 & 11-12) and in black, white, navy and lime – which is a breathable, quick drying and fast wicking garment offers windproof protection and is ideal for keeping youngsters feeling comfortable when running around; and the S250J Junior Bodyfit Base Layer Shorts, which feature a micro stretch soft athletic fabric for ease of movement, and are treated with Quick Dry technology to wick moisture and keep skin cool and comfortable.

Other garment in the Spiro range include the windproof, quickdrying and breathable S261J Junior Skort, which makes an ideal alternative to the traditional sports skirt and gym pants combo.

Spiro garments are held in stock in every size and colour, offering clubs and teams reliable, consistent availability for uniform top-up or colour refreshing.

The complete range of Spiro activewear is easily available through Spiro’s European network of distributors offering full range product availability and exceptional customer service. Further details online at spiroactivewear.com 16 Futura Magazine | April 2015

This is an excellent double fronted two storey retail and commercial property situated in the best location in Kells town centre

Price €355,000 REA T & J Gavigan (Kells) Newmarket Street, Kells, Co. Meath,

+ 353 46 9240045

AGENT PROFILE

THE OTHER SIDE OF… Having started off as a rep for DYRBERG/KERN some ten years ago, Cathy Ronayne of Rogue Agencies was given the opportunity to become an agent for the designer jewellery and watch brand – an opportunity she gladly took. Now ensconced in a sleek new showroom in Fashion City, she took time out to talk to Futura about her life outside of the 9-5.

Philip Seymour Hoffman

Cathy Ronayne

Aston Martin DB9

Life’s a beach

FAVOURITE DESIGNER? Victoria Beckham S/S16

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT?

Olivier Rousteing

FAVOURITE FILM?

If I had the money and the body it would have to be Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Victoria Beckham for outfits for work.

FAVOURITE CAR? Austin Martin DB9. It’s just a breathtakingly beautiful car.

FXB’s in Dublin - I like them all but especially FXB’s on Parkgate Street: the finest steaks in Dublin served by the finest people!

I love watching movies and hate picking a favourite, but if I have to it would have to be something nostalgic like Stand by Me or The Goonies. Great movies with great memories!

FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION?

FAVOURITE ACTOR?

At the moment my favourite destination is a holiday I haven’t been on before! I imagine my favourite destination is a cruise across the Atlantic to the Caribbean on the largest cruise liner there is!

The late Philip Seymour Hoffman is definitely up there for m. He raised the bar of every movie he was in. I’ll also always watch a movie with Ryan Gosling in it!

FAVOURITE TV SHOW?

FAVOURITE BOOK?

IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE…

A book I read a good few years ago called Wonderland Avenue. I probably need to read it again to see if it still is my favourite but I loved it at the time.

Not the most inspired answer, but it has to be sipping a cocktail on beach in the Caribbean with my nearest and dearest! Anywhere with heat, to be honest.

Like most people in the country, it’s Game of Thrones, but my secret favourite show is Bob’s Burgers. Probably the funniest show on TV.

HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? I like to get out and about and visit somewhere new in the city, or go for a walk somewhere scenic.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? Still at the helm of an expanding agency!

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 17

TRADE SHOWS

SHOWTALK EW PREVI

MOMAD RESTRUCTURING AND EXPANSION ON THE AGENDA FOR PANORAMA Following last season’s successful launch of Panorama’s new Shoes & Accessories area as well as the extension of Nova Concept, Panorama Berlin will focus on restructuring its core segments in the halls 1 – 6 for the forthcoming Spring/Summer 2017 edition, which will take place from 28-20 June, 2016.

“We thought about what we could come up with to again inspire and support our visitors – the buyers - so we basically started from scratch and restructured all our core-segments in our six main halls,” explained Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin.

“We refreshed the brand portfolio, added segments and expanded areas in order to present a true panorama of the best in contemporary men’s and women’s wear collections, shoes and accessories.

“The restructuring offers a clear definition of segments, easy orientation and quick overview. Our aim is to create a truly relevant 18 Futura Magazine | April 2016

platform for the international fashion business and serve a community of like-minded souls who believe in and live independent retail.”

For the forthcoming June edition, Hall 1 will house a new segment, Style Hub, which will showcase casual daywear to glitz and glamour and represent all the playful styles reflecting a young woman’s wardrobe. Hall 2, meanwhile, will be home to Modern Man, a new segment with 6,000 square metres devoted to the best of contemporary menwear from head to toe, from formal to sportswear, from heritage to avant-garde.

Other attractions of Panorama will include Urban Lab Pt.1, which is home to all things denim and casual; Contemporary Luxury, which will showcase the finest of contemporary, high quality collections for modern sophisticated women; a new segment, Cosmopolitan, where contemporary luxury will blend effortlessly in with stylish pieces for sophisticated grown up women; and Nova Concept, a unique concept dedicated to directional women’s and men’s wear collections combined with innovative lifestyle products and artisanal craftsmanship.

Due to the instant success of the new Shoes & Accessories area, which was launched last season, Panorama’s organisers have expanded this section in in hall 8 with the addition of another hall with 1,600 square metres of surface area exhibition space.

For its second edition of 2016, Momad - which takes place from 9 to 11 September - is expecting to welcome over 250 exhibitors occupying 10,000 square metres of exhibition space The timing of the event, which coincides with MOMAD Metrópolis, Bisutex, Intergift and MadridJoya, will make Feria de Madrid the greatest multi-sector showcase of fashion and trends in southern Europe Excellent results achieved in the first edition of MOMAD Shoes, which was held at the beginning of March and boasted a highly successful level of participation, means that the forth oming editgion which will showcase SS17 collections, is creating significant buzz in the sector.

The September show is expected to attract more than 250 exhibitors and 500 brands including the majority of the made in Spain brands and a significant international presence as well, - all exhibiting their collections in a net surface area of 10,000 square metres. It is also anticipated that the number of specialist footwear visitors for March 2016 will be exceeded by a wide margin.

Furthermore, the September MOMAD Shoes event offers the added value of coinciding with the MOMAD Metrópolis International Textile and Accessories Trade Show, as well as with Intergift, Bisutex and MadridJoya. This will once again make Feria de Madrid the biggest and most comprehensive showcase for fashion and trends in southern Europe; a place to find out about the textile, footwear, accessories, costume jewellery, jewellery, gifts and decorations that will be setting the trends for the coming season.

TRADE SHOWS

WS E I V E R

SUCCESSFUL DEBUT FOR MOMAD SHOES The first MOMAD Shoes event, which took place from 4 to 6 March, boasted participation from 230 exhibitors and 470 brands of Shoes and Handbags that exhibited their products in 9,000

square metres of exhibition space - twice that of February 2015, when the Footwear collections were exhibited together with Textiles and Accessories at the multi-sector Fashion event.

The show received visits from almost 5,500 professionals, 60% of whom were specialist footwear buyers who had not attended in the previous five seasons, when the multi-sector fashion show grouped the footwear and textile markets into the same sector.

FEBRUARY 2016 EDITION OF MODA CLOSES ON A HIGH Birmingham-based trade show Moda has closed its doors following a strong three days across all five of its sectors.

Held from 21-23 February, 2016, the show - which introduced a re-organised format this season - was praised by exhibitors and visitors alike for its upbeat atmosphere, new layout and the resulting re-energised atmosphere.

The unisex area – situated between Moda Gent and Moda Woman – was a new feature introduced this season, alongside the show’s Outdoor Lifestyle area. Showcasing a range of performance clothing with a strong focus on style and heritage, the area inspired buyers across both menswear and womenswear to discover the potential of outdoor apparel for the fashion sector.

Over in Moda Loves, the mood was similarly upbeat as on-trend and in-season labels showcased their spring collections on the exhibition’s new, dedicated platform. Moda Woman also played host to its new Moda Edit area, which gave niche and aspirational labels the opportunity to showcase their collections to the wider trade from a dedicated platform.

Moda Woman was complemented by a strong

accessories offer, including the new-look Adorned area, which played host to a selected portfolio of quality and directional accessories collections.

In menswear, key exhibitors across Moda Gent had invested into their show presence, resulting in a professional and inspiring showcase of collections to perfectly complement the show’s new positioning.

Over in Footwear meanwhile, the reorganisation of Moda Footwear reinvigorated the sector while maintaining the show’s position as the key trade event of the season.

For those in the intimate apparel sector, the relocation into a dedicated hall achieved its aim of creating a more intimate ambience for the industry, something that was reinforced by the launch edition of the Intimate Ball.

Hosted by Moda Lingerie & Swimwear and Moda Woman at the NEC’s new Vox venue, the black tie event brought the industry together, and was organised in aid of breast cancer awareness charity Coppafeel.

The next edition of Moda takes place on 7 August, 2016.

MODA FOOTWEAR CONTINUES ON THE RIGHT FOOT Buyers and brands were left extremely positive about the forthcoming season following a successful edition of Moda Footwear. The February 2016 show introduced a new format this season, re-energising the sector with an inspiring portfolio of collections and a vibrant new platform.

“The show seemed so much more buoyant in general,” says Victor Russell, owner of independent footwear store Russell’s of Omagh in County Tyrone. “We liked the new layout and were impressed with the fact that footwear was across a bigger area this time around.

“We saw the brands we needed to see and were inspired to place orders on new collections during our time at the show, so it was certainly a worthwhile few days for us.”

The brands agreed that the exhibition was the perfect platform from which to launch A/W’16.

Global footwear label Peter Kaiser exhibited on the re-introduced Boutique platform, and found that the area achieved its aim of attracting buyers across the sectors.

“We have a strong appeal across both womenswear and footwear, and we have attracted a good mix of buyers this time around,” says Rolf Buhr, UK sales for the brand. “Moda Footwear is always a good show for us, and it remains our key opportunity to launch our collections to the trade.”

For other footwear labels, Moda’s new layout had the added benefit of re-energising buyers’ perceptions of the show as they arrived at the event.

“We opened a lot more new accounts than we had anticipated,” says Fred Willis, brand manager for Dude Shoes. “The new layout meant the buyers took a fresh approach to navigating their way around the halls, and were more open to being inspired by new collections and new ideas.”

Moda Footwear will now look to build upon its success with its forthcoming August edition, which will bring an enhanced portfolio of footwear labels on board for the new spring season.

“Footwear brands across the board have invested into their collections and overall show presence this season, so it was only right that we responded with an appropriate platform from which to showcase the strength of the industry,” says event director Sean O’Connor.

“The new layout achieved its aims of refreshing the sector while maintaining our brand adjacencies within each area of the show, and we have been delighted with the response on both an exhibitor and visitor level.

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 19

TRADE SHOWS

MOMAD METRÓPOLIS WELCOMES 14,000 VISITORS WITH FOCUS ON TEXTILES AND ACCESSORIES The recent edition of Momad Metrópolis, the international textile and accessories show, placed its emphasis on clothing and accessories and reaped the benefits.

Over three days, from 5 to 7 February, over 800 brands exhibited their collections with the event recording over 14,000 professional visits. Irish guests represented 2.5 per cent of those in attendance. Professional visitors were treated to a showcase of the latest in clothing, accessories, jewellery, gifts and decoration.

Among the companies taking part were big names from the national and international market such as Alba Conde, Uni Piu Uno, Almatrichi, Imperial, María Coca, Solid, Vilagallo, Strena,

INSPIRATIONAL PURE LONDON ENDS ON A HIGH FOR FEBRUARY EDITION Pure London has finished on a high following its recent edition for the A/W’16 season.

According to organisers, the show grew noticeably busier and energetic with buyers from around the globe ready to do business, and visitors positively commenting on the energetic vibe and eye-catching theme throughout the show.

Buyers from ASOS, Square, Bibi & Mac, MiMi Boutique, Lipsy, John Lewis, Fenwick, Dune, House of Fraser and Selfridges all gathered under one roof across the three days as they invested in the latest collections from 20 Futura Magazine | April 2016

Buffalo, Stella Rittwagen and Lollipops, among others.

In the area of brands aimed at the youth market Lois Jeans, Victorio y Lucchino Denim, Bendorf, Jott, Fyord, Ichi, Blend, Losan and Coronel Tapioca stood out.

In leather and fur, Momad Metrópolis also brought together the most successful companies of the sector, like Araújo, Blue Ribbon, Lorenzo Marchetti, and Sánchez Palencia. Accessory brands, such as Superchería, S.T.A.M.P.S., Stella Rittwagen, Drap, and Blover,amongst, were present.

In children’s fashion, well-known names included Cucú, Anguè Anguè, Clo & Tilde, Maison Mangostán, Monkimono, Petite Indie and Antimilk.

Alongside the commercial exhibition, Momad Metrópolis held a full programme of parallel activities, including the Momad Forum, an area designed for technical

over 700 brands, 300 of which were new to the show, as well as experiencing unmissable seminar and catwalk content.

The London trade event also reported international visitor numbers with strong attendance from Turkey, Italy, Spain, Denmark and Holland. A dynamic mix of buyers was met with an equally diverse mix of brands across womenswear, menswear footwear and accessories.

Pure London also played home to a number of Turkish brands, with a range of cutting-edge womenswear collections, curated by ITKIB (Turkey, Discover the Potential). With a new layout, the introduction of menswear and bold styling from emerging artist, Rudolf Humm, Pure London thrived on originality and has ensured that this will be carried on for S/S’17.

The new theme for S/S’17 is ‘A Life Less Ordinary’, which is derived from WGSN key trends and inspirations for the upcoming season.

This politically moving and non-conformist theme is combined with fascinating patterns and textures worn by brave and bold individuals.

Jo Voiliras, sales manager for womenswear brand, Ness, commented on their success: “This season, we have seen a good mix of existing and new customers, including several UK and International buyers. We will definitely be re-booking for S/S’17.”

The next edition will take place from 24-26 July, 2016 at London Olympia.

knowledge, debate and information exchange.

The growth of pop-up stores, e-commerce and responsible and sustainable fashion, and the implementation of WiFi tracking as a way to enhance the loyalty and commitment of customers, were some of the topics covered.

Rafa Vilallonga, Sales Manager of Skunkfunk, highlighted the increase in sales at this edition, from both new and existing customers. “We have seen more professionals this year, and a more interesting customer profile”, he explained.

The next edition of Momad Metrópolis will take place between 9 to 11 September at Feria de Madrid.

GDS The next edition of GDS – Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories will be held from 2628 July, 2016.

This new concept was adopted upon the explicit request of retailers, according to Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President & CEO of Messe Düsseldorf.

“In in-depth conversations with our advisory board we have decided in favour of changing the weekdays for the event. We want to constantly optimise the trade shows GDS and tag it! for retail.

“By opting for the new sequence of days we will avoid the Friday as one of the days generating the highest retail sales. This means retailers can capitalise on these three trade shows in the best possible way without having to decide between a trade show visit and a sales day at the store.”

All activities related to GDS and tag it! can be found online at gds-online.com and tag-itshow.com

RETAILER PROFILE

Feeling Blue Having worked in retail for 20 years, Breda Casey opened her vintage fashion store, Miss Daisy Blue, on Patrick Street in Cork in November 2009. Futura caught up with the affable retailer to talk about her thriving business, the challenges she has faced and her hopes for the future.

What is your principal target market?

We have a diverse customer base. We appeal to any woman or man from age 10 – 80 years who enjoys quality and originality in clothing and fashion for either/both day-to-day wear and occasion wear. We will continue to source highend, good quality vintage and our customers will respond to that.

What were the key challenges that you faced in starting or growing your business?

Sourcing good quality vintage is always a major concern; it is completely different to buying for a regular store. There are no guarantees that you will find the quantity or quality of stock on a buying trip.

There has been a shift in attitudes towards vintage clothing in recent years, with highfashion icons like Kate Moss and Alexa Chung making vintage clothing on-trend, but there is still an uncertainty and general caution with shoppers when it comes to buying pieces. It is important that we continue to inform and educate customers about the product and offer a positive vintage experience.

How do you market the shop and attract new customers?

Word-of-mouth is a key tool; it is important that we provide a positive experience. We work closely with local and national fashion photographers and stylists; it is great exposure for the business when a fashion shoot gets published in a national paper or magazine. Fashion shows can often be a vehicle to showcase some of our private collections and also expand our customer base.

And what about Social Media?

Social Media is currently our only online footprint; instant visual engagement is practical

and positive, so Facebook and Instagram are particularly good choices for us to expose and update stock arrivals, etc.

What is different about your business, compared to your competitors?

The increased popularity of vintage has brought a wave of vintage-inspired clothing and designs. Our USP is that we offer the true original product, uniqueness in the garment and unrivalled quality in form and fabric compared to that of high-street copies.

What are your key brands?

excellent condition, so that will include cleaning, repairing, in fact, often multiple jobs. Our customers appreciate the extra care, the quality and the overall experience, and I think our prices reflect this

How important has your team been to the development of the business?

We primarily stock womenswear: 1930s to 1980s.

Dresses are a signature item, both daywear & occasion-wear, but we also stock a wonderful collection of winter and opera coats, cashmere knitwear and vintage leather handbags.

Our menswear selection stocks original 1950s bowling shirts, varsity sweaters and cashmere knitwear.

The Miss Daisy Blue family is instrumental in the success of the business. Varied career backgrounds means that our staff can play differing roles within the business but in all, we are a very loyal, committed and creative bunch with a universal aim to make the Miss Daisy Blue establishment the very best it can be.

How sensitive to price are your customers?

We are in the process of building our online shop.

We aim to release some of our archive collection on this platform, showcasing some excellent labels like Balmain, Oscar de la Renta, Christian Dior, Magnin and Donald Brooks.

We aim to provide a unique experience and supply high-end, quality stock. We work very hard not just to source it, but also to present it in

What are your plans for the future?

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 21

FUTURA

VIEWPOINT: DOES SOCIAL MEDIA HELP SELL MY PRODUCT? Today, it is argued that any retailer who isn’t marketing themselves through social media is lagging behind the competition. But is this over-estimating, or possibly under-estimating, its importance? Futura chats to three industry professionals to discover how much merit such claims actually have

AMY LYONS

HEAD OF SOCIAL MEDIA, ROTHCO ADVERTSING AGENCY Working side by side with digital strategy, Amy Lyons heads up the social media department for Rothco, one of Ireland’s leading advertising companies.

“Advertising has seen quite sizeable changes over the past number of years thanks to the emergence of the digital and social media eras.

Digital advertising is not the only answer but it is part of the solution. A campaign with one clear idea that is consistent across all consumer touch points will have, without a doubt, a huge impact - but this integrated approach is not financially possible for everyone, especially small business owners.

“Digital advertising offers a more affordable, fast and effective option. Unlike any other media, it peels back the curtain to reveal useful customer data that brands can use to reach the right person at the right moment. When done correctly, the consumer response has been outstanding.

“Determining whether an ad campaign has been successful involves many factors. You 22 Futura Magazine | April 2016

have to set targets.

Before a campaign kicks off, I would always encourage getting this in place based on the business objectives so its success can be determined.

“When it comes to advice on how best to market your store or product digitally, I would say: know your audience and how they behave online. Once you understand who and where they are, you can start to tailor your communication so it feels more personalised and the audience targeted is more likely to be engaged with your product. For example, if you understand your target audience spends most their time online browsing fashion stylists on Instagram, use this information creatively.

“Don’t forget mobile. Ireland has become a country of internet shoppers driven by the search for a better deal and more choice.

According to a report from Google Barometer, smartphones play a vital role with 40 per cent of people saying they got early inspiration for a purchase while browsing on their phone.

“Also, invest in rich media. As smartphone penetration increases year on year, consider the different devices and smaller screen sizes your customer is viewing your content on. Valuable rich media like a short video or a gorgeous product shot will have a much bigger impact than a text focused content.

“And don’t forget to ‘be human’. Interacting via Twitter and Facebook is far less formal, which gives you an opportunity to talk to your customers in a more genuine way. Make your social media channels and website a reflection of you and your brand so they feel real and are easy for you to update regularly.”

CLÍONA STANDÚN

MANAGING DIRECTOR OF STANDÚN DEPARTMENT STORE Clíona Standún is the third-generation to oversee the running of Standún Department Store, one of Galway’s most celebrated retail destinations.

Credited with bringing the Aran Sweater to the masses, this Connemara emporium has been clothing locals and tourists for the best part of eight decades.

“When it comes to advertising, we completely and totally mix it up. I don’t have the perfect formula – I wish I did! I wish someone could tell me that you should spend this percentage of your budget on social media; this percentage on newspapers; this percentage on radio or on competitions and the like.

“We’re kind of winging it – based on what worked well the previous year. Some of the most effective approaches for us are the old, tried-andtested ones, like going around with posters and putting them up all around Galway – I mean that’s something that we would have done 30 years ago and we still do it to this day because it really works.

“It is easier to reach people through social media with such platforms as Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter, and it is a much cheaper option, but how many of those ‘likes’ or ‘shares’ convert into sales? For us, that is the big question mark. It might seem like you’re achieving great engagement with your customers with people being really positive online about your products, but they mightn’t actually come in and buy it.

“What’s also really important to factor in

FUTURA is your demographic. Our customers wouldn’t be teenagers or in their early 20s – they’d be more in their late 30s upwards. A lot of those people are used to reading newspapers and still connect with the more traditional form of media like radio and television, so we’d be leaving out our main customers if we didn’t advertise in the newspapers, say. So, I suppose it depends on whom you’re trying to target.

“We had something of an advertising blitz recently to announce our winter sales.

Outside of the posters, we mounted billboards, ran three ads on radio and placed three ads in the newspapers. We also ran competitions on radios and distributed posters to factories and businesses throughout Galway. Of all of those things, the one I would leave out, if I had a choice, is Facebook. For us, I truly believe that the traditional routes are better.

“We will get the odd customer who comes in and says that they saw the item online or on Facebook, but, for the amount of time you dedicate to social media platforms, I wouldn’t be too convinced of its return.

“In saying all of that, a few years ago when we were trying to change the image of the store from being an old-fashioned tourist shop to being somewhere for local people to shop, Facebook was the best way to spread the word – posting products and pictures constantly - and it was an effective way for us to convey the new images of the business. So, from that point of view, it was really good.

“The most successful form of marketing for us is utilising our data base of about 7,000 customers – whether that’s emailing them or texting them. We will let them know of sales and give them a pre-sale where they can have the items at sale prices before the sale officially launches. We find this approach the most successful as these people are already our customers - they’ve been here already and have left their details, so they obviously liked it here.

We try not to do mail-outs and send texts too often because it will just become annoying and people will opt out.

“I think you have to try everything and see what works for you. You have to be really imaginative coming up with ideas and different approaches. For instance, last year, I designed a map of Connemara. A route that a lot of the coaches take is through Moycullen out to Kylemore Abbey and Clifden, bypassing us, so I designed a map that would lead them around this way, showing them all of the landmarks and shopping opportunities that exist. These maps had coupons with 10 per cent off.

“When it comes to targeting new customers, we always try and get across in our marketing: if you haven’t been here before, give us a go and pop in. I push key elements like free parking, only 15

minutes from Galway, and things like that. I keep plugging the positives and, hopefully, someday, someone will want to do something with their day and decide to come out to us.”

SHANE WHELAN FOUNDER OF PROJEKT

Shane Whelan established PROjekt (projekt.ie) in 2012 as a boutique advertising and marketing resource, making top level brand-thinking and marketing-effectiveness available to SMEs at an affordable price. He has worked at the top tier of Irish advertising throughout his career.

“When I began my advertising career there were just four mediums: Press, Outdoor, Radio and TV, as opposed to the legions of digital formats and the fragmented mayhem we have today. Back then, the whole service was delivered from one integrated and cohesive agency. Today, marketers must deal with a range of specialists all competing for their dollar. In this rush to exploit the miracle of digital communication, one vital element seems to have fallen through the cracks: the thorough planning that leads to an effective marketing strategy.

“Preparing a marketing strategy goes far beyond the next media schedule. In the past, when we planned, we looked at the market, the opportunity and the brand. Through research, we helped companies identify the most appropriate target audience. We identified the brand’s point of distinction and we honed messages accordingly. Our aim? To find the unique selling point and develop creative communications with ‘cut-through’ that add value to the bottom line.

“Today, too many people see this vital compass unimportant and time consuming, compared to the immediacy of clicks, likes and shares. The reality is that brand planning and marketing strategy are as important – if not more important – in the digital age. Why? Because if you are going to invest money in communicating a message, your money is wasted unless you have identified your audience and clarified what it is you want to say. It is like aiming a gun. It doesn’t matter how powerful or hi-tech the gun is - if it’s

not pointing at the target, it’s not going to hit.

“Even the people who do ‘like’ or join brand pages on Facebook - are they really engaging?

The US company, Forrester Research, found that the rate of engagement among a brand’s Facebook fans is 7 in 10,000; for Twitter it is 3 in 10,000.

“People do watch ads online. YouTube still commands huge viewers across broad audiences.

The large numbers of viewers will - with the odd exceptional viral - be as a direct result of carefully planned creative. The channel will then act as another means to distribute the message, albeit in a less controlled manner as to who might view.

“These successes will, however, be part of a larger strategic planning process. The ads will be originally aired, getting noticed and engagement on high-profile TV programmes with massive target audiences viewing figures that fit the brand profile.

“Marketers consistently undervalue consistency. Diageo recently carried out an audit of all the endlines it had attached to one of its biggest brands – Guinness – and were embarrassed to discover it had used more than 20 different slogans in 15 years. What-is-more, when it asked people to recall an endline, the only one they remembered was “Good things come to those who wait”, which it hadn’t run since 1999.

“The short term effects of advertising can be hard to measure, which makes the data provided by digital all the more addictive to the marketer who has to answer to a board. No wonder Martin Weigel of Nike’s agency Widen & Kennedy, refers to “… the ‘crack’ of instant data: likes, shares, impressions”.

“Additionally, Laurence Green of London agency 101 distinguishes between two classes of advertising. There are ads for when you know what you’re looking for – “If I want to find a plumber, I used to look in the local paper, now I Google” - thus, Google has wreaked havoc among local newspapers. Then there is advertising which burnishes the aura of a brand in the minds of people who don’t yet want to buy it, by imbuing it with meaning: a soft drink can come to represent optimism, a chain of stores - the warmth of middle-class homes. Google and Facebook, says Green, still haven’t shown they can do this.

“New technologies and tools change the way we do business, but it’s important to evaluate what the new technology is replacing and what it is aiding. Digital marketing has given us extraordinary new channels for reaching audiences but it doesn’t create messages that sell.

“Try to remember the most effective ads don’t sell, but they do make people buy and there is a huge difference between a ‘marketing strategy’ and ‘marketing communications’ strategy. When it comes to measuring the success I believe the advice is simple, literally take nothing for granted.”

April 2016 | Futura Magazine 23

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