Futura Magazine April 2014

April 2014

www.futuramagazine.ie

Schoolwear 2014/2015 Industry News The New Look Vienna Shoes Vox Pop: Online trading, social media and taking on new brands

contents April 2014

Welcome to the April issue of Futura, our third edition of the year.

It’s just a few weeks since our last issue but much has happened in the interim. From shop openings and, sadly, closures to proposed management buy-outs, new launches and appointments, and landmark legal battles, these – and many other stories – are all covered in our comprehensive news section.

The trade show calendar has been equally busy, with a number of highprofile shows taking place in the first quarter of the year. For up-to-theminute reviews of key events, such as Bread & Butter, Moda, GDS and Gallery, be sure to check out Showtalk section on page 15.

Our Brand Watch feature which was launched last issue and aims to provide an insight to some of the key labels to watch proved to be so well received that we plan to make it a regular part of Futura. You can find the second instalment on page 17, where we profile a selection of brands and independent designers, all of whom are making their indelible mark on the fashion scene.

Elsewhere, we’ve opened the floor, so to speak, to some of the country’s independent retailers, finding out their views on everything from acquiring new brands and trading online. As ever, the results – which can be found on page 10 – make for fascinating reading.

We’re back again next month. In the meantime, though, please continue to stay in touch with us and keep sharing your views, comments and suggestions. All feedback – favourable or otherwise – is always helpful in enabling us to continue to meet your – our readers – wishes.

Schoolwear

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Showtalk

15

Brand Watch

17

Cover Image: Micha Spring Collection available from Joan O’Driscoll

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Shopcall: Vienna Shoes 18

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FUTURA Ireland’s Fashion Business Magazine

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Futura | April 2014

news

NEWS MICHAEL H BOWS OUT In a blow to the domestic fashion industry, one of Ireland’s leading fashion labels, Michael H, has wound down its wholesale business.

Gold by Michael H

communicating with existing and new offline and online fashion fans.

With regular get-togethers taking place across the world in Barcelona, Berlin, London, New York, Paris, Sydney, Singapore and Toronto, Decoded Fashion Dublin brought highly-curated groups of fashion tech start-up founders, retail executives, investors and influencers together to share their stories, advice and opinions with an engaged community of entrepreneurial and forward-thinking leaders.

The outlook was not so bright across the board.

Declines were registered in food & tobacco (-3.2%), pharmaceuticals & cosmetics (-3%), and clothes & shoes (-0.8%).

With unemployment rates also falling sharply, the “signs are encouraging”, according to Alan McQuaid of Merrion stockbrokers.

The theme of the first Decoded Fashion Dublin was Globalisation versus Localisation, and the panel of speakers included Rory Careen of IBM, Fidelman Healy, Gilt Groupe and Renate McIntyre, Etsy.

Chaired by Sonya Lennon, the panel discussion gave guests the opportunity to discuss how community commerce is challenging global business and the trials facing fashion and retail industries in Ireland. Karl Aherne, managing director of Wayra Ireland opened the event.

Founded 37 years ago, the Irish-owned, familyrun womenswear label was built on the premise of putting back in what you take out. This policy of constant reinvestment and reassessment resulted in the label’s growth and evolution into a key player on the domestic fashion scene, employing over 200 people at its peak.

An official press release from Michael H described how, “the board… have made the difficult and sad decision to wind down the wholesale business and whilst some of the retail stores will close, a number will remain open.

“Whilst Michael H has always led the way in terms of design, quality of product and excellent customer service, unfortunately, with a downturn of sales in the middle market and no sign of the current recession lifting, the company has been forced into making this very tough decision.

“It is a difficult time for both the loyal staff and the Heather family and many of our excellent customers and we thank everyone for their support in particular over the last few weeks.”

DECODED FASHION HOSTS FIRST MEETUP IN DUBLIN Decoded Fashion, a global event series and networking community that encourages entrepreneurship and advances technology innovation in fashion and retail, hosted its first Irish ‘meet-up’ in Dublin in March.

Decoded Fashion was brought to Dublin by Sonya Lennon, a designer and stylist, and cofounder of Frockadvisor, a social commerce fashion platform, which supports the independent retail sector by connecting and

Futura | April 2014

(from left) Gilt’s Fidelma Healy, Sonya Lennon and Rory Caren of IBM

NEW LOCATION FOR PANORAMA After three successful seasons at the ExpoCenter Airport, Panorama Berlin will move to a new downtown location for the S/S 2015 season.

Commenting on Decoded Fashion Dublin, Sonya Lennon said: “Founder of Decoded Fashion Liz Bacelar has long identified Dublin as an important hub for fashion tech innovation. Being asked to be a leader of the Dublin chapter is a great honour and cements the international significance of Dublin in the sector. Fashion may be fabulous and fun, but how it evolves in technological terms is changing at a rapid pace; Decoded bridges that gap and bring innovation into reality.”

RETAIL SALES AT NINE-YEAR HIGH Car and home-related purchases during 2013 are to be credited for the increase in retail sales, which are growing faster than any time in the past nine years, according to figures recently published.

This growth is indicative of the confidence that is returning to the sector, particularly for bigticket items. The volume of sales rose by 8.9% in the year to January 2014, new Central Statistics Office figures show. Car purchases are the main reason for the increase, jumping 28.8%. Without them, the overall growth would be a more modest, though still encouraging, 2.7%

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In addition to a perfect infrastructure and optimum connections to public transportation, the ExpoCenter City at the South Entrance to the Messe Berlin, with a total of 33,200 square meters of exhibition space, provides the necessary room for expansion. The immediate proximity to other hot spots of Berlin Fashion Week makes it easy for visitors to Panorama Berlin to inform themselves of coming trends and tendencies.

Even with the excellent transport connections, Panorama Berlin will continue to offer its visitors transfer shuttles from Tegel (TXL) and Schönefeld (SXF) airports as well as shuttles to all the relevant hot spots of Berlin Fashion Week.

The next edition of Panorama takes place from 8-10 July 2014.

DÜSSELDORF 30 JULY – 1 AUGUST 2014 WWW.GDS-ONLINE.COM

German-Irish Chamber of Industry and Commerce 46 Fitzwilliam Square _ Dublin 2 Tel. +353 (1)64 24 312 _ Fax +353 (1)64 24 399 dusseldorf@german-irish.ie

www.german-irish.ie

news is still looking. If anyone knows a supplier who PAT O’BYRNE MAN’S He specialises in full figure mannequins, please do let us know at info@futuramagazine.ie SHOP AMONGST THE WINNERS IN MEATH FASHION & NEW APPOINTMENT AT DOUBLE TWO STYLE AWARDS The Meath Fashion & Style Awards, which were held in the Headfort Arms Hotel on 4 April, proved a resounding s u c c e s s .

MC’d by Xposé’s Aisling O’Loughlin, the glamorous event was attended by over 350 guests and saw businesses from all over Co. Meath were nominated in a number of different categories.

Pat O’Byrne Man’s Shop in Trim saw off strong competition in the ‘Best in Men’s Fashion and Grooming’ category, emerging as the winner. It was a proud moment for Pat and his staff who run the popular menswear store.

The shop, which was established in 1979, prides itself on its customer care and stays to its Motto. ‘Personal Service is our Secret’. Its is acknowledged as Co. Meath’s leading formal and wedding hire specialist and has a loyal clientele for its extensive menswear offering, which boasts a strong mix of labels such as Magee, Remus Uomo, Douglas, Baumler, Meyer, Bruhl, Eterna, Bugatti, Casa Mods and Lerros, as well as footwear by Timberland, Rockport and Base.

SKINNY LEGS

Double Two has announced the appointment of Robert Wells as Head of Sales.

Previously with Skopes, BMB and Crowther Group of Companies, Wells will work with Double Two’s Brand Director Geoff Phipps in developing new business opportunities across their men’s shirts, casualwear and ladies’ blouses divisions.

POPULAR MULLINGAR STORE SHUTS DOWN AFTER 140 YEARS OF TRADING J. Shaw & Bros LTD, Mullingar’s oldest existing family-run business, has sadly closed its doors for the final time.

Located at Hibernian House, Pearse Street, the beloved store first opened in the Westmeath town in 1875.

Their popularity lay in their high quality products and personalised service.

For over a century, Shaw’s sold a full range of clothing and other items of apparel, as well as fabrics, furnishing materials and haberdashery items.

The store’s closure was due to the everincreasing expenses that businesses throughout the country are currently contending with, such as high insurance, charges and growing rents.

The soaring popularity of online shopping is also having a drastic effect on local enterprises such as J. Shaw & Bros LTD.

Skinny mannequins We received an unusual request from one of our leading fashion photographers who was recently commissioned to do a shoot of girls wearing leggings. Not on models, though, but on mannequins. Unfortunately the client was not happy with the available selection of mannequins here in Ireland.

“They are all too skinny,” he was told. “Find me a natural-looking mannequin, please.”

Futura | April 2014

The collections will include two new organic materials: organic leather from the Swedish leather supplier Tärnsjö, and organic silk. To coincide with the launch, H&M is also introducing the new labelling system, CleverCare, which boasts labels that reveal the garments’ sustainability.

It is understood that a total of five workers will lose their jobs following the decision by management. However, there is the possibility that J. Shaw & Bros LTD might regroup and reopen in a smaller premise in the near future.

Conscious Exclusive is a limited collection using high quality fabrics and dramatic and intricate details inspired by flamenco and bohemia. Key pieces include a bright orange dress made from Tencel with polyamide that falls slightly longer at the back, and a zebra print loose-fitting kaftan.

The collection will be available in 150 selected H&M stores worldwide as well as online.

GALLERY DÜSSELDORF EXPANDS EXHIBITION PORTFOLIO AND SPACE The forthcoming edition of Gallery Düsseldorf will be held from 25-28 July 2014 and will offer an extended exhibitor portfolio and a bigger exhibition space, while the Hammer Hallen will serve as an additional venue.

H&M LAUNCHES NEW SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION

Since Berlin’s Opernwerkstätten will no longer be available for future events, the decision was made by organisers to focus all events in Düsseldorf, rather than looking for a new venue in the capital.

H&M has launched its new Conscious and Consious Exclusive collections, showing that both everyday and high fashion garments can be more sustainable.

Another new feature of Gallery Düsseldorf is the integration of the children’s wear segment, which will take place over the four-day period in the new Hammer Hallen venue.

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Mc Gurk Fashion Group | Tel 01 4295353 Email Rorymcgurk@eircom.net | JosephRibkoff.com

Official sponsor of

news “Here, too, we are reacting to market demands by incorporating the Little Gallery format into the Gallery Düsseldorf since many of our exhibitors handle both women’s and children’s wear and, therefore, favoured coinciding dates,” said Ulrike Kähler, Project Director National Trade Shows of Igedo Company.

including stretch canvas, silk and cashmere. Irish made knitwear also plays a key role in the range, with luxuriously soft cashmeres and lambs wool - light and delicate - in the form of off-theshoulder tops and knitted tees.

Commenting on all these new developments, Philipp Kronen, Managing Partner of Igedo Company, added: “By enlarging our home base we are strengthening Düsseldorf as a location.

The repeated search for a venue in Berlin was out of the question for us, also in view of the competitive situation there. We are now creating a new storyboard for the fashion city Düsseldorf with an extensive range for the industry.”

In her High Court judgment, Ms Justice Mary Finlay Geoghegan ruled Dunnes, in selling the black knit top and blue and brown shirts, infringed Karen Millen’s rights to unregistered Community design under the 2002 in each of the three designs.

Brendan Courtney and Sonia Lennon Vacation has a core palette of muted tones in light greys and blues, with some added statement accents in fuchsia and royal blue.

Lennon Courtney is also available to buy at Harvey Nichols, Arnotts, Kilkenny Group and 17 retailers nationwide, as well as online at lennoncourtney.com.

Pieces from the Lennon Courtney SS14 collection

The month of March saw fashion designers and former Off The Rails presenters Sonya Lennon and Brendan Courtney celebrate the launch of their new live studio.

Located at The Central Dairy, 19 Stephen’s Street, Dublin 2, the premises offers a number of unique experiences for consumers, as they can pop in and see Brendan and Sonya work, make an appointment to be personally styled or view their latest collection, Vacation.

Known for celebrating femininity, Lennon Courtney has also introduced a selection of new and exciting fabrics in their S/S collection,

Futura | April 2014

The case centres on the interpretation of the 2002 regulation relating to the protection of fashion designs; the outcome could have significant ramifications for all high street retail chains.

Karen Millen brought the case alleging Dunnes breached European regulations by copying a woman’s shirt and top. In the High Court, Mosaic Fashions, Karen Millen’s UK parent company, had claimed Dunnes produced almost identical women’s clothing to the items produced by Karen Millen, thereby infringing design rights under the 2002 Regulation on unregistered Community Designs.

Labels such as Alpha, Borrelli, Duvetica, Happiness, Pantone and White Siviglia have all signed up to showcase their latest collections.

LENNON COURTNEY LAUNCH IRELAND’S FIRST LIVE STUDIO

Supreme Court appeal by Dunnes against a High Court ruling in favour of Karen Millen, the full hearing of that appeal remains on hold until the European Court gives its decision.

KAREN MILLEN WINS LATEST ROUND IN LEGAL BATTLE WITH DUNNES STORES OVER FASHION DESIGNS UK fashion company Karen Millen has won another round in its continuing legal battle with Irish retailer Dunnes Stores concerning the protection of fashion designs.

In the first week of April, the Supreme Court dismissed some complaints raised by Dunnes.

However, because a European Court of Justice decision is awaited on key issues raised in the

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Dunnes has appealed to the Supreme Court but its full judgment remains on hold pending the ECJ’s decision on key issues. These include whether the “individual character” of a design for the purposes of the Regulation is to be considered by reference to whether an asserted design differs from the impression produced on an “informed user” by an individual design previously made available to the public, or an amalgam of features of earlier designs.

news ELVERYS’ MANAGEMENT TEAM WINS IN BATTLE FOR ICONIC SPORTS CHAIN The management team of Elverys Sports, led by chief executive Patrick Rowland, has emerged as the winning bid in the hotly-contested battle for control of the sports retail chain.

Elverys’ management team fought off bids from British retailer Sports Direct, which is controlled by Newcastle United owner Mike Ashley, and from Irish department store Heatons, in which Mr Ashley has a stake.

It was announced on 31 March that the examiner to Elverys Sports, Simon Coyle of Mazars, has approved the management’s bid for the company, in a move that will secure 700 jobs.

Elverys, which is headquartered in Castlebar, Mayo, entered the examinership process in February and was granted protection from its creditors including Nama, which is owed €23m after it acquired loans that AIB made to Elverys.

The company was being sold as part of a wider restructuring of debts owed to Nama by Elverys owners, Mayo brothers John and James Staunton. They had originally bought the brand in 1998, and merged it with Staunton Sports.

It had been hoped in February of this year that Elvery’s would be sold as part of a “pre-pack” receivership process, where the buyer is lined up in advance.

However, a number of rival bidders objected to the prepack sale with Mr Ashley claiming his bid was higher than the prepack bid.

While the management team have been selected as the preferred bidder, Mr Coyle now has to formulate proposals for a Scheme of Arrangement which must be presented to the creditors for approval, with a view to having those proposals sanctioned by the High Court to ensure the survival of the company as a going concern.

Elverys has 56 shops nationwide

M&S FRASCATI SHUTS CLOTHING DEPARTMENT Poor sales have resulted in Marks & Spencer closing the clothing section in its Frascati Shopping Centre outlet in Blackrock, Co Dublin.

Until recently, the retailer operated a clothing section adjacent to their popular food hall in the South County Dublin centre. However, a longstanding poor performance has resulted in this area being converted into a café and delicatessen, which are expected to open in April.

showing in IFC House from 4 August to 28 August

a CHOICE in ladies fashion brands

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For appointments Call Joan O’Driscoll Tel: 087 266 4336 Futura | April 2014 E: joanmodriscoll2012@gmail.com

anews ccessories

Get Ahead, Get A Hat!

Newbridge Silverware

As two of Ireland’s rising stars prove, there are few accessories to compare to hats as a means of self-expression.

Newbridge Silverwear is celebrating its 80th year

Fiona Mangan SIGNATURE STYLE: Sophisticated, stylish and statement-making hats are a speciality of this talented, award-winning Irish milliner. Mangan’s SS14 collection is all about vibrant block colours and contemporary femininity with an avant-garde twist.

TARGET MARKET: Style-conscious, individual ladies seeking designerstyle hats without the corollary price tag.

USP: With designs that set trends, rather than merely follow in their wake, Fiona Mangan’s designs stand out from the competition. The Galway native’s appreciation of form, proportion, composition and structure, which is apparent in all her creations, comes from her former career as an architect.

Now in its 80th year, Newbridge Silverware (www.newbridgesilverware. ie) has introduced a number of new collections and extensions to its bestselling silver plated jewellery collections, along with more statement and fashion-forward pieces, and new additions to the popular Greta Garbo and Princess Grace Collections. A stunning new high fashion collection is also set to be unveiled at the end of April.

FURTHER DETAILS: fionamangan.com

Tapping into the trend for layering jewellery, Newbridge has launched two new bright and colourful ranges: The Boho Collection, which features nine different styles, including plain silver plated and contrasting silver plated and colour beads; and the Forever Young Collection, which features colourful silver plated bangles.

The new Cascade Collection, meanwhile, boasts stunning statement pieces that will add the finishing touches to any outfit from simple elegance to more elaborate looks. Highlights include the Multi Stone Cuff and Necklace, which incorporate show-stopping agate mosaic stones, and the Multi Strand Necklace and matching Bracelet, which display 17 and 33 individual chains respectively.

Princess Palles

Other new launches for 2014 include the Curragh, Caragh and Cashel Collections. The former the winning creations of the Newbridge Silverware Design Awards in association with NCAD and includes pendants, brooches and bangles, and showcases etched finishes and cut-out details in striking curved items.

STYLE: Remaining close to the current season’s trends, Princess Palles – which was set up in the summer of 2012 and is the brainchild of two sisters, Jane and Sandra Palles, with a passion for designing and creating luxurious, affordable hats – aligns its designs and brand style with the latest catwalk colours and themes.

Newbridge Silverwear

TARGET MARKET: The contemporary female looking for fashionable hats that impress with their design and detail while remaining competitively priced.

USP: The Irish duo hand-make all pieces to the highest standard. Each hat can be customised in any colour while one-of-a-kind pieces can be designed, according to the sisters, “with the customer, for the customer.”

Clients are welcome to visit and browse the collection at the duo’s home studio in Dublin.

FURTHER DETAILS: princesspalles.com

Futura | April 2014

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1934 - 2014

celebrating 80 years

vox pop - ladies

Time To Take A Risk?

JOANNA MCNULTY, BOUTIQUE BIBI, KILRUSH, CO. CLARE Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Yes, certainly. Lots of our occasionwear get great coverage on shows like Xposé, which generates interest, awareness and excitement amongst our customers.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

OLGA TIMLIN, THE HIDDEN CLOSET BOUTIQUE, TUAM, CO. GALWAY Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Yes, definitely. We are always taking on new brands so that things are kept fresh and current.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

We’re taking on a new brand called Darling, which is trendy with a really good price point. The demographic for their range is 25–35.

We have taken on the label, Mamatayoe.

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success. What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

season.

The Irish occasionwear brand, FeeG, turned out to be a big success; its popularity has been growing steadily over the past couple of years. It got coverage on television, which helped its profile a lot.

Do you interact with customers when considering new brands?

For us, we like to collaborate. It’s our job to source out the latest styles and trends, then report back to our customers. The feedback we get from our customers, whether they’re successful or not, will inform future decisions.

Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

Our customers like clothes that are unique and different and are no longer brand-led.

As a result, we’ve noticed that they often avoid big name brands.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

We have a successful Facebook page, which generate lots of local interest. Customers can see what we’re stocking from the images we upload; then come into the store to try them on.

Futura | April 2014

The casual collection is a little bit different but we are quietly optimistic that it will do well for us, particularly during the summer

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success.

What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

We took a chance with Oui some years ago and now it is probably our biggest seller.

We have also had lots of success with Irish label, Fran and Jane.

considering new brands?

We

Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Yes, of course! The Quack + Dirk brand sells very well and is a staple in the shop. I feel I will always have my strong loyal customers for my Parisian brand dresses, for example, which still hold a lot of respect.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

I’m always looking at new brands. I’ve always loved the Danish brand, Soaked in Luxury. We used to stock this brand when I was a buyer for Sasha years ago. I love to peruse their look-book for ideas.

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success. What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

I have taken a risk on an organic fair-trade label, People Tree. A lot of the time when you say organic cotton to someone they think you mean drab, hession-type potato-sack clothes. People Tree has beautifully tailored colourful pieces, some of which are the most popular in the shop. This will be my fifth season stocking them and this season the new stock is only a week in and it’s had a great reaction already, with one of their tops already selling out.

Do you interact with customers when considering new brands?

Do you interact with customers when Absolutely.

DEIRDRE MAHON, QUACK + DIRK, FAIRVIEW, DUBLIN 3

are

always

getting

feedback from our regular customers. We often show them the look-books and get their opinions on certain styles.

Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

Quality is what our customers are now looking for - that above anything else.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

We don’t sell online but we do have a very popular Facebook page. Users often check out new merchandise there and then will come into the store at a later time to try them on or purchase them.

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Yes, but not always. I generally know what my customers are looking for and the types of pieces that fly off the rails so I just use these as guidelines. Sometimes you can ask too many opinions and it becomes confusing and too much! I always go with my gut feeling!

Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

No, not really. I don’t have any brands that would be considered high-end enough to be purchased merely for its label.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

I don’t have an online shop but I use Facebook a lot. This has been much more successful than I had imagined.

I try and post a picture of something new each day, sometimes twice a day. The reaction would be amazing for a top seller but you can tell when you’ve posted something only ‘alright’ - things go quite!

I would get quite a bit of sales through Facebook. As I don’t take credit cards in the shop, I use PayPal and post out their parcel straight away. I find it’s a great way for girls to suss out a friend that they want to buy a gift for.

They usually hone in on something they’ve ‘liked’ or commented on at the Quack + Dirk Facebook page.

Are Irish independent retailers playing it too safe and sticking with the tried-and-tested brands, or are they prepared to take a punt on up-and-coming brands? We spoke with six stores across the country to get their views.

SUSAN MILAN, MILAN & CO. BOUTIQUE, BRAY, CO. WICKLOW Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Yes, without a doubt. I always take particular care in choosing the right brands for our customers.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

We are always adding to our collections – we take on at least one new brand each season, often two. I look for strong brands that are good value – something that is particularly important during a recession such as Soaked in Luxury, Malene Birger and Hoss.

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success.

What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

I wouldn’t necessarily use the word ‘risk’ but we are always adapting to our customers’ needs – if there is more of a demand for casualwear, for example, then we stock accordingly.

Do you interact with customers when considering new brands?

Yes, we are always engaging with our customers but I would take responsibility in finding the latest styles and trends to bring back to my customers. I also have to like and have confidence in everything that I stock.

Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

Customers, more than ever, are looking for items and outfits that are strong, of good quality and at an affordable price.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

Having an online presence is definitely the way forward for most businesses. We have a website and an excellent Facebook page.

However, at Milan & Co., we pride ourselves with the personal interaction we offer our customers - we make it an experience. We love dressing them in store; finding the perfect fit and fabric for them – this is hard to achieve online.

ASSUMPTA NELSON, GYPSY GIRL BOUTIQUE, KILRUSH, CO. CLARE Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Yes. Our customers have always responded well to the brands we stock.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

We don’t always take on new brands – it depends – but for S/S 14, we are set to take one or two new labels, which we expect to prove popular.

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success.

What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

SHELLEY MAGUIRE, LBD BOUTIQUE, MULLINGAR, CO. WESTMEATH Are the brands you currently stock helping your business grow?

Absolutely. I am constantly attending fairs and shows to ensure that we have the latest stock and styles.

Are you looking at new brands this season? What has caught your eye?

We haven’t taken on any new brands just yet, but we are always on the lookout.

Stores that experiment with new brands seem to have lots of success.

What new brands have you taken risks on over the past few years?

We recently took a risk with Virgo’s Lounge and it has proven to be a huge success so far.

I would say that we have taken calculated risks over the years – we always think long and hard before ordering in new brands and collections.

Do you interact with customers when considering new brands?

While we might not directly ask for input

Do you interact with customers when considering new brands?

Definitely. I will often bring some of our regular customers with me to shows or when I visit suppliers to get their opinions.

To begin with, I just bought in stock that I liked, but, over the years, I have been actively seeking feedback from customers.

from our customers, we gauge what it is popular and what isn’t by what sells and what doesn’t. Our customers will often give us feedback, which we always take on board.

Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

I think it’s a combination of established brands that boast a good price point and quality.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

We are currently looking into developing our online presence. The first thing we’re aiming to set up is a Facebook page and then maybe expand from there.

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Have you noticed any changes in customers’ demand for branded goods?

I think the biggest change in recent years relates to price. Regardless of what the brand is, this is what informs customers’ choices most of all.

Are you selling online in addition to your store? If so, how is online business performing?

Absolutely. We have a website and an extremely popular Facebook page.

Our boutique is based in Mullingar so customers from the town will also pop into the shop, but with an online presence, we aim to broaden our base, targeting customers from all over Ireland. For it to be a success, though, you have to dedicate a lot of time – continuously uploading images, descriptions and promotions. So far, it’s been going really well.

Futura | April 2014

schoolwear

Parents overwhelmingly endorse uniforms as Quinn apologises to suppliers Parents across the country have overwhelmingly

Club 1880

endorsed the retention of school uniforms in schools across the country, with only two of the country’s 730 schools confirmed as having requested any significant changes to their uniform policy.

The result comes after a campaign by the newly formed Irish Schoolwear Association (ISWA), which was created in response to the decision by the Department of Education and Skills to survey parents in response to perceived concerns about the cost of uniforms.

Responding to the outcome, uniform suppliers expressed satisfaction that their businesses had received such strong support from parents, and criticised Minister Quinn and his officials for what they believe was a lengthy, costly, and unnecessary process that resulted in disruption to orders and damage to their businesses.

“This was an unnecessary move by the Minister,”

1984 - 2014

a spokesperson for the ISWA said, describing the process as “ideologically motivated and reckless.”

“Uniform suppliers have always worked with

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND.

schools to deliver the highest quality and lowest costs to parents, year on year. Schools have their

School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets,

own existing internal arrangements for discussing

Softshells, Embroidery,

matters like this, and the interference by the

MENS KNITWEAR.

Department [of Education] cost valuable time for school administrators, as well as placing an

Year round full stock service.

enormous burden on uniform manufacturers and suppliers.”

AGENTS: Sammy Farrar: 01 - 671 5199 East/South Alabert Sherlock: 087 - 202 7518 West/North West Jeff Farrar: 01 - 671 5199 North East Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare.

T: (045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie

Futura | April 2014

The ISWA was highly engaged throughout the campaign, producing an information leaflet for

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parents and taking to the airwaves to inform people about the survey process and the potential consequences.

“It stunned us absolutely when we saw that the survey the Department was asking parents to complete spoke about things like introducing designer clothing into schools,” the spokesperson continued. “In this economic environment in particular, we found that many parents were appalled at the idea of making schools into designer fashion houses, and the results of the process bear that out.

“Our position from the start was that uniforms work. They protect children from the pressure of having to compete on appearance, they provide a sense of identity and pride, and they reduce costs to parents by being durable, highquality, and reducing the need for five or six different sets of clothes every week.

“We’re very gratified that parents across the country recognised both the benefits of the school uniform, and indeed the service that uniform retailers and manufacturers provide”.

Concerns had been raised at an early stage in the process that the Department’s decision could have serious commercial impacts on the uniform manufacturing and retail sector, and the ISWA moved quickly to engage with policy makers as well as parents.

“Even though this process ended up in a ringing endorsement of the service we provide, the fact is that it caused great stress and uncertainty for small businesses struggling to make ends meet. Orders for the next school year were placed in doubt, and many of those had to be delayed while we awaited the outcome. For several months, people were holding their breaths wondering if they would still have a livelihood come September.”

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Futura | April 2014

schoolwear

Club 1880

The

ISWA

met

representatives

with

from

TDs all

and

parties,

culminating with a meeting with Education Minister Ruari Quinn, at which the Minister apologised and expressed regret for the stress the process had caused.

“It was a relief to see that TDs from all parties now recognise that this process, and the thinking behind it, was deeply flawed, and it was gratifying to have the Minister apologise in person for the error. Our focus now, as an organisation, is to ensure that this kind of thing never happens again.”

Uniform suppliers say that they are not opposed to working with schools to adapt to parents needs, but that this should be a parent and school driven process, and not something imposed from above.

Club 1880

Club 1880

“Like every small business sector, we recognise the need to keep changing and adapting what we do. Where a school or a group of parents want to change something, we listen, and recommit to providing them a high-quality product that reflects their needs. Boards of Management and parents know that our doors are open.”

Solo school jackets

Solo school jackets

The ISWA says it does not intend to disband now that the threat has abated, but will continue to develop into an effective voice for the sector: “What this showed us ultimately is that as a sector, we’re stronger and more effective for ourselves and our customers when we act together. We’re going to stay on the scene, and become an effective and consistent voice arguing for value, quality, and stability for parents and students alike.”

Futura | April 2014

www.1880club.com Douglas & Grahame 048 - 9332 7777 F14

showtalk

Showtalk REVIEWS

BREAD & BUTTER

Gallery International The 12th edition of Gallery International Fashion Fair, which took place in Copenhagen from 28 January to 2 February, ended with great energy and, crucially, high trade.

With international buyers accounting for 61 per cent of visitors to the Fair, the event proved to be an extremely cosmopolitan one, boasting 370 designer-driven brands, 14 catwalks shows and almost 12,400 buyers – an increase on figures for the August 2013 edition.

Unique amongst trade shows, Gallery is wholly driven by windmill energy and serves 100 per cent organic, making it the only CO2 neutral event in the international fashion calendar.

Concluding on 16 January, the 30th edition of Germany’s Bread & Butter trade show was hailed as a resounding success.

With the much-praised motto “Ich bin ein Berliner”, the popular threeday event reinforced its standing as one of the leading international trade shows in the Street and Urbanwear segment.

Official figures show that the majority of visitors came from the Germanspeaking world, as well as other European countries. Representation from further afield, notably the US, Canada, Japan and South Korea, was also strong.

The next edition of Gallery will take place from 5-8 August 2014 and, according to organiser Christian Gregersen, promises to be “even more intense.” It will coincide with Copenhagen Fashion Week, which will offer an inspiring mix of internationally renowned trade fairs with a wide selection of the best fashion brands and garments, primarily from Scandinavia, but also from leading fashion houses around the world.

The cosmopolitan flavour of visitors was mirrored in the show’s impressive exhibitor list - several of the big international fashion houses and department stores were present while over 500 exhibiting brands were on hand to display their latest collections.

The single hall concepts, which were divided into Superior, Fashion and L.O.C.K., had clearly distinct and very good contents, while the newly conceptualised main hall (Urban Base) was fresh and contemporary due to the integration of the Sport & Streetwear brands.

Moda The 2014 autumn/winter edition of Moda hailed another season of success with a series of new features and brands across the five sectors contributing to an overall increase in visitor numbers of 5% compared to last February’s show.

Highlights of the January edition of Bread & Butter were several and included Urban Base, the newly created section, which was undeniably fresh and contemporary, thanks to its fusion of the many sport and streetwear brands.

The event, which was held at Birmingam’s NEC from 16-18 February, witnessed the UK’s largest gathering of women’s, men’s, footwear, accessories and lingerie and swimwear brands, with 1,450 collections exhibiting under one roof.

Reflecting after a successful event, Bread and Butter founder, Karl-Heinz Müller, mentioned how, “The halls were well-visited and the visitors’ length of stay... increased remarkably.”

Moda Noir, a new area dedicated to evening and ocassionwear, proved a successful addition to the annual trade show, showcasing the latest collections from a gathering of key international brands in Moda Woman.

The Moda Noir area sat alongside a newly expanded Moda White, with exhibitors in the dedicated space for fashion forward and directional womenswear design also benefitting from a prominent new position within the show.

The response from both exhibitors and visitors, meanwhile, was overwhelmingly favourable.

“The feedback from all parties involved was extremely positive throughout,” Müller confirmed.

The next edition of Bread & Butter will be held between 8-10 July 2014.

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Futura | April 2014

showtalk

Moda Urban Life, meanwhile, saw a consolidation of Moda Gent’s strong offer of sports, street and lifestyle brands, while Moda Boutique returned for its second season in Moda Lingerie & Swimwear with a host of debuting brands including KS Paris, Charlotte & Co., Evollove and Pleasure State, all of whom benefitted from the stand-out space.

While there was plenty to celebrate, this edition registered fewer than 19,000 visitors, which corresponds to a 10% decrease.

Speaking about the drop in numbers, Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President & CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, said: “One reason for this lies in the structural change affecting the footwear sector which we cannot influence.

But you also have to accept that the days of traditional fashion fairs are now coming to an end. New impulses and fresh concepts are now called for which is why I am happy to see a new GDS in July.”

As early as September 2013, Messe Düsseldorf had announced the re-launch of GDS as the ‘Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories’ and presented tag it! by GDS – the show for private labels in shoes and accessories – to the public.

In terms of content, the GDS concept boasts an all-new structure, a stronger focus on accessories, a press day as well as earlier dates - 30 July to 1 August 2014 and 4 to 6 February 2015. Retail will be given a directional overview of all important collections and trends for the season and, therefore, an optimum introduction to range planning.

Pure London In addition to an impressive brand line-up, Moda’s Big Live Footwear debate proved an additional highlight at the three-day show, offering retailers and brands alike the opportunity to examine and discuss the latest topics affecting their sector.

Pure London, the UK’s largest fashion buying event, made a successful return to London Olympia from 9-11 February as it welcomed buyers, retailers and industry experts to source from over 700 leading brands.

The level of international buyers at the popular trade show, now in its 35th year, was significant this season with countries including France, Spain, Italy, Germany, Russia, China, the US and Hong Kong, all represented at the show.

Summarising the season’s success, Nick Cook, portfolio director for the show commented: “It has been a great show, both buyers and brands appear more confident, and the reports we have had indicate that lots of good business has been written onsite. The new areas we’ve introduced this season have also been well received, and have brought new names and a new look to the show.”

Along with its new makeover, the three-day February event housed an increased number of first-time exhibitors in the newly edited ready-to-wear sections, Allure, Aspire and Agenda, as well as the existing show sections Spirit and Footwear and Accessories.

Looking ahead at the future of the show, Cook added: “Having tested the water this season with new product areas there will be some changes to the look and feel of the show going forward. We are focussing on making the show even more accessible for buyers with key product zones and more intimate business seminars and support at the core of the enhancements we will be making.”

In addition to the best selection of ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories brands, Pure London hosted a programme of exciting seminars and catwalks across two stages.

Highlights included fashion icon Zandra Rhodes and People Tree founder Safia Minney discussing the launch of their AW14 ‘Happy Woman’ capsule collection for ethical brand People Tree; and insightful seminars on issues such as online branding, technology and business success.

The next edition of Moda will be held from 10-12 August 2014.

The next edition of Pure London takes place from 3-5 August 2014.

GDS For three action-packed days in March, Düsseldorf’s GDS witnessed 800 exhibitors hailing from over 30 countries showcase their latest AW 14/15 collections. The sourcing trade fair Global Shoes, eanwhile, kicked off a day earlier on March 11, boasting over 270 exhibitors.

Renowned model Svenja Holtmann opened proceedings, while GermanTurkish TV presenter Nazan Eckes was awarded Shoe Woman of 2014. The German Shoe Prize went to KangaROOS with rapper CRO accepting the award on their behalf.

Another highlight saw designer Guido Maria Kretschmer present his new shoe collection, which was developed with the Austrian shoe producer Högl.

Futura | April 2014

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brands watching

brand watch

worth

Whether new, established or up-andcoming, we bring you the lowdown on some of the finest labels to keep an eye on.

LABEL: Micha

STYLE: Originating from Denmark, Micha is a long-established brand in the ladieswear sector, specialising in smart casuals, such as dresses, skirts, trousers, jackets, tops and outwear.

Its new SS collection encompasses everything from dresses and tops to knitwear, trousers and skirts. Fashion highlights in the range – which is offered in sizes form 36 through to 48 – include trendy Capri pants and stylish fitted skirts in a palette of vibrant seasBonal shades and attractive classic colours, TARGET MARKET: Aimed at the 30+ woman, the range is mainly forward-order with a back-up stock service and is one of the leading brands internationally being sought after for its comfort fitting and smart aesthetic.

brands watching

USP: Chic and elegant designs at purse-friendly prices.

worth

LABEL: Lauren Vidal

STYLE: Chic co-ordinates with a smart focus on style, subtlety and elegance. Highly feminine, relaxed and contemporary outfits combine fullness and femininity, minimalism and glamour.

TARGET MARKET: Ideal for those seeking a smart casual range with an elegant finish, the new summer range – which is available from Joan O’Driscoll - offers style with a Parisian flair in coats, jackets, trousers, skinny trousers, dresses, tunics and shirts, as well as a full range of fashion accessories.

USP: Lauren Vidal’s designs, which are immediately recognisable, retain the unique ‘touch’ of a designer who uses her own alphabet.

LABEL: Kello STYLE: Collections are typically wide-ranging, spanning everything from feminine dresses to smart jackets and beautiful matched prints.

There are numerous possibilities of combinations within each collection.

TARGET MARKET: Inspired by a raw but classical elegance, Kello appeals to self-conscious and stylish women who are not afraid of being different.

USP: With four collections each year – available in sizes ranging from 34 to 48 - Kello’s team of dedicated designers keep up-to-date with the latest exciting designs, creating feminine designs that flatter the female form while remaining comfortable and practical to wear.

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Futura | April 2014

shopcall

With a new, more spacious unit within Blackrock’s Frascati Centre, Vienna Shoes boasts an attractive premises with regular footfall. Would its stock, display service and service measure up, though?

Our mystery shopper paid an unscheduled visit to find out.

LOCATION Set within Blackrock’s Frascati Shopping Centre, the family-run Vienna Shoes has recently moved to a new, more spacious unit located within the Centre, where it has had a presence for 25 years and was previously located directly opposite its new premises.

Vienna Shoes holds a strong position of competition against other footwear retailers between the two shopping centres in Blackrock, having differentiated itself not merely by offering children’s shoes but also through its extensive range, which includes an impressive choice of European branded footwear for ladies. Furthermore, whilst other stores in the vicinity have focused on their own brand of footwear, Vienna Shoes focuses on providing diverse branded footwear to its consumers.

WINDOW DISPLAY The footwear store’s window display reflects the various ladies’ and children’s brands stocked within the store, providing

Futura | April 2014

the passer-by with a clear indication of the diverse stock. At the time of our visit, an attractive spring/summer range was being showcased and featured a display for the brand FlitFlop, highlighting a brand message of ‘Sandals for Superwomen’

DÉCOR A fresh, inviting interior makes a very favourable impression. A predominantly neutral palette – cream walls and white ceramic floor tiles – provides a clean and contemporary backdrop, allowing the product, the shoes, to shine. It’s far from minimalist, though – bursts of colour, such as floral print backdrops and dried flowers, are used to good effect, creating a pleasingly feminine look that caters to the shop’s customer base.

forceful.

One member of staff was keen to offer his knowledge regarding what footwear would be suitable for an upcoming event, while another proved very helpful in advising a customer on the correct size for her young daughter.

DISPLAY Full marks for a display that is attractive and easy-to. For the ladies’ footwear section, various key brands are given their own wall or shared walls. Similarly, other keys brands are designated floor space.

STAFF

What is striking and impressive about the display units is that each shoe is carefully placed on glass shelves with strong brand presence featuring on each display. As a result, it is difficult to miss which brands of footwear are stocked.

A Saturday afternoon visit found the shop manned by three staff, all of who were smartly presented and quick to greet and acknowledge customers. The trio impressed with their enthusiasm and willingness to help without being too

While the colour co-ordination of the footwear is impressive, there is a feminine colour blocking between the various ladies’ brands. Elsewhere, matching accessories are positioned close to some of the display areas.

F18

A distinct balance is given to both the more formal and casual range of footwear for ladies.

Much of the back left wall is given to the children’s display. Although boys’ shoes are available, the display is target predominantly towards the female children demographic.

STOCK It’s hard not be impressed by an excellent balance of casual and formal footwear and an excellent choice for both women and children.

Brands available for ladies include Heavenly Feet, Geox, Pitillos, Marco Tozzi, Sabrinas, FlitFlop, Joseph Seibel, Desigual and Perlato, while the choice for children encompasses everything from Start Right and Geox to Ricosta, Superfit, Pablosky and Primigi. Indeed, whether it’s some stylish sandals for the summer months or a pair of elegant heels for evening wear, Vienna Shoes has it – and much more – covered.

VERDICT A round of applause to all involved – staff, buyers, display team, you should be very proud.

This is a shop that impresses from the offset.

A bright, inviting décor and immaculate merchandising – not a shoe was out of place – is complemented by a well-trained and cheery staff that are an asset to the shop.

The main draw, however, is, of course, the extensive selection of shoes, which run the gamut of styles and price points, offering a wealth of choice for customers and a shopping experience that makes an impression for all the right reasons.

F19 F19

Futura | April 2014

Thought for the Month

Next issue

May 2014

“Go confidently in the direction of your dreams.

Live the life you have imagined.”

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• Complete School Uniform Range • Stock available throughout the year • Peronsalised Service for every customer • Embroidery & Printing Service • Corporate and promotional clothing suitable for every event Derek Eakin Ltd Tel: +353 (0)49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.derekeakin.com

1984 - 2014

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND. School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service.

AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare.

T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie

www.1880club.com Douglas & Grahame 048 - 9332 7777 F21

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