Futura august 2013

august 2013

menswear in ireland

MADE IN GERMANY The best German collections FASHION FOCUS The key collections for SS14 BEST FOOT FORWARD Footwear trends for SS14 SHOWTALK Previews of the key trade shows

JAC K M U R P H Y SPRING SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION

Irresistible IrishClothing

Call Our Sales Team To Make Your Appointment Now M: +353 86 8196219 T: +353 18414 200 E: info@jackmurphy.ie www.jackmurphy.ie

Welcome to the August issue, a featurepacked edition that brings you the best of Futura, Menswear in Ireland and Footwear in Ireland in one 68 page package!

We’ve focused our efforts on making this issue your indispensable guide to SS14. From the key men’s, ladies’ and kids’ collections and some of the finest in the new season’s footwear to the hottest trends in men’s casual wear and ladies’ shoes, we’ve got it all – and much, much more – covered.

With the trade show calendar in full swing, we’ve compiled the need-to-know on the leading events. Check out our Showtalk feature on P.34 for a rundown on the forthcoming shows, both at home and abroad; we’ll be running reviews of many of these in our next issue.

We’ve enlisted the help of a number of buyers and retailers this issue in not one, not two, but three Vox Pop features, where we open the floor (or, in this case, the page) to their views on a range of issues, from the continued success and popularity of German brands to their opinions on trade shows and their views on buying for the SS14 season.

As ever, we strive to continually improve Futura magazine and always welcome your opinions, comments and feedback. Is there anything you would like to see covered in future issues? Are there any events that you feel we should be covering? Please do share your views and let us know.

We’ll be back again soon with our September/October issue. In the meantime, wishing you all a prosperous summer sell-in and, of course, an enjoyable read!

Best wishes,

contents Best Foot Forward 36

News 2 The latest news, developments and appointments in the fashion industry

Made in Germany 12 Focus on some of the key German collections

Footwear treands for SS14

Ladieswear Collections 42 Previews of the SS14 collections

Made in Ireland 45 The best in Irish fashion

Vox Pop 14 Ladieswear retailers voice their opinions on German brands

Keeping it Casual 18 Trends in SS14 men’s casualwear

Vox Pop 26 Menswear retailers vice their opinions on German brands

Menswear Collections 28

Ladieswear Collections 42 Previews of the SS14 collections

Footwear Collections 50 Previews of the key footwear collections for SS14

Shopcall 51 Greene’s in Limerick goes under the microscope

Previews of the SS14 collections

His Dark Materials 60

Made in Canada 32

The future looks bright for NCAD student David O’Malley

The best in Canadian fashion

ShowTalk 34 The need-to-know on the forthcoming trade shows

Buyers’ Shout 62 Views and opinions of a triumvirate of Irish buyers

Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor alexanderfitzgerald@gmail.com

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Cover Shot: Mishy Boo

Cover Shot: Libra

Cover Shot: Kootation

Cover Shot: Bruhl

Cover Shot: BeBe

Cover Shot: Fly London

News

CLERYS HIT BY RECENT FLOODINGS The iconic Clerys department store has a temporary new window display; although instead of the usual colourful features it proudly boasts, all that is currently on offer is black plastic. This new ‘look’ is as a result of the significant water damage caused by the recent thunderstorms.

Ceiling tiles had fallen onto the ground floor area, while, near the front door, water was seen seeping out. Further water was said to have been dripping from the upper floors where condensation was also visible.

An assessment is currently taking place on the roof, forcing the store to close its doors, possibly until November. At the time of going to press, the retailer was waiting for the outcome of this assessment, and only then will Clerys have a clear indication of how long it will take to get the store up and running again.

NEWS to prove popular with Irish customer. “It’s called ‘Modern Fit’,” he explains. “It’s as fitted as the Venti shirt but is a lot more tailored than the old Casa Moda fit. We will, however continue to offer the old regular fit on many items also.”

“We pride ourselves in looking after the brands we represent as if they were our own labels and also looking after our customers both from a sales and marketing side, and we look forward to growing our business even in these challenging times.”

Reaction to the new collection has been particularly positive, Lawlor says: “Our Casa Moda Club collection, which is our most casual part of the Casa Moda collection, is doing very well.” He highlights knitwear as a sector performing particularly well, adding how a shift back to V-neck styles has been discernible.

Another recent arrival to the Threadweave showroom is the new collection from Venti, which, Lawlor, mentions, has also been favourably received. The company, he mentions, “is investing €16 million on a new state-of-the-art warehouse and dispatch system, with the capacity of shipping 80,000 units per day.”

The O’Connell Street store opened in 1853, albeit under a different name. In 1942, it was taken over by Kerryman, Denis Guiney, and his family. It had survived two world wars and a civil war. However, Clery’s lost €2 million in the year ending January 2011 and, last September, it was taken over by a Boston-based private equity group, Gordon Brothers.

FLY 53 showroom Cormac Jones in his Fashion City showroom

NEW CONCEPT: GDS TO BECOME KICK-OFF EVENT GDS, the international event for shoes and accessories, will be pitched as an international kick-off trade fair for the shoe and accessories industries from mid next year.

Boasting an innovative event concept, the trade fair will also move forward in terms of dates: the debut event in this new format will be held from 30 July to 1 August 2014.

CJ AGENCIES MOVES TO NEW SHOWROOM AT FASHION CITY THREADWEAVE TAKES DELIVERY OF NEW SS14 CASA MODA AND VENTI COLLECTIONS John and Christian Lawlor’s Threadweave agency has taken delivery of the new Casa Moda SS14 collection, which is currently showing in their showroom at Fashion City.

The new range, Christian Lawlor mentions, features an impressive new fit, which is likely

CJ Agencies recently moved into its new showroom in Unit 37 Fashion City, where the company has a vast 2,000 sq ft premises. The light-filled space comprises three individual showrooms for menswear, ladieswear and footwear respectively, as well as a reception area and office space to the front.

“The new large showrooms give us the opportunity to showcase our brands in the best possible light,” says Cormac Jones of CJ Agencies, who is the agent in Ireland for a number of labels including FLY 53, ladieswear label Brand Dutch elements, Portuguese footwear brand Beppi and sports brands FILA, Russell Athletic and K-SWISS.

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This means that GDS will focus on communication, information and brand staging thereby allowing buyers to obtain an overview at an early stage so they can kick off the order cycle with all the necessary information.

The new concept will be presented during the coming GDS in September 2013.

Event Dates: 11-13 September 2013 and 1214 March 2014.

New GDS Dates: 30 July-1 August 2014 and 4-6 February 2015.

Tamaris Ireland • David Coogan • 10, Shrewsbury Manor • Drogheda, Co. Louth • Phone: 041 9847369 • Mobile: 086 2779480 • E-mail: david.coogan@wortmann.com • tamaris.eu Wortmann KG: P.O. Box 31 53 • D-32721 Detmold / Germany • Phone: +49.52 31.605.129 • Fax: +49.52 31.605.5.129 • E-Mail: sales@wortmann.com • www.wortmann.com

News

DEBENHAMS REPORTS UPTURN IN PROFITS High street retailer Debenhams bucked the depressed retail market in Ireland last year, posting pre-tax profits of €9.4 million for its network of 11 Irish stores. The previous year, in comparison, saw the company lose €6.1 million, according to its accounts.

While revenues at the chain fell slightly at €162 million for the year ending 1 September, 2012, the healthy upturn in profits came after the retailers trimmed its costs by €20 million to €147 million.

The resurgence in Ireland is in stark contrast to the retailer’s performance in Britain. Last March, it issued a profit warning following the heavy snow, which greatly affected their sales. Recently, it reported a fall in profits for the first half of the year, the first drop since 2008.

In 2006, Debenhams purchased Roches Stores in a €29 million transaction. It now employs 1,742 people in Ireland.

DIGEL EPITOMISES BASIC VALUES IN AN IMPRESSIVE NEW BUILDING Within a decade, fashion company DIGEL has made a great leap from the valley of the River Nagold up to the Wolfsberg Industrial Estate, where the new headquarters were established. Designed by architect Michael Stikel, the recently completed 3000-squaremetre building epitomises the basic values of the company.

The concept of the reduced cubic design with its simple white front and the three projecting areas, which are clad with Alucobond panels, stands out deliberately from the main body of the building. Depending on the use of the interior space, the windows are long drawnout rows or huge glass windows. This modern concept is echoed in the 160-square-metre foyer, which is an impressive 15 metres high.

The memorable light system, created by Stuttgart brand agency Publicmoto, is the absolute highlight of the €9 million investment.

In the ultra modern offices, there is room for up to 120 employees, with ventilation, heating and air conditioning systems, automatically controlled. The solar plants supply exactly the amount of power the company needs. The ecologic heating system works with an air-water-heat pump and the use of a collecting tank ensures that not a drop of water is wasted.

SUCCESS FOR CRÉATION GROSS AT BERLIN TRADE SHOWS This season, Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG appeared at Berlin with its two brands Carl Gross and CG-Club of Gents for the very first time, and with great success.

At Bread & Butter, CG-Club of Gents counted a total of over 900 professionals from the trade at its stand in the Urban Superior Hall 2.

The new looks for S/S 2014 with new, slightly dusty colours and an enhanced range of youthful, fashionable knitted and jersey garments were greeted with much enthusiasm.

“The sentiment was excellent over the whole three days. Our start at Bread & Butter was for us a success from start to finish,” said Ralph Böhm, Managing Director of Création Gross.

Panorama also proved to be a perfect platform for Carl Gross, according to Peter Gross, owner of Création Gross. “We are extremely satisfied about the number of visitors, also from abroad. Especially Eastern Europe and the Benelux countries were also well represented,” he said.

Création Gross is already planning for the next Bread & Butter and Panorama. Jürgen Putzer, Head of Marketing, notes, “Berlin is where it all happens. This was the message at the two exhibitions - and no mistake! Sentiment on all sides was good throughout and number of visitors exceeded our expectations. That is why we will be back for the Autumn/Winter 2014 season again.”

NEW IRISH AGENTS APPOINTED FOR OUI German fashion label Oui has recently appointed Eurocollections as its agent in Ireland.

Based in Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24, Eurocollections is currently showing the SS14 collection.

DEAD STOCK?

CASH

o t n I t I n r u T

Boutique and Fashion Outlets Wholesalers and Distributors Call: Wally Connolly Mobile: 086 - 2414560 4 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

DUNDALK’S MADAM KAY CLOSES Dundalk’s Clanbrassil Street has suffered a blow with the news that woman’s boutique Madame Kay recently closed its doors.

Madame Kay’s Peter Kieran had been particularly vocal in recent years in trying to attract business to what was once the main shopping street in Dundalk. Sadly, however, but his family’s business has failed to weather the stormy prevailing conditions.

register online & ! get a free eTicket

11.-13.09.2013 d端sseldorf, germany

www.gds-online.com

German-Irish Chamber of Industry and Commerce 46 Fitzwilliam Square DUBLIN 2 Tel: (01) 64 24 312 Fax: (01) 64 24 399 E-mail: dusseldorf@german-irish.ie Internet: www.german-irish.ie

News

PRIME-RETAIL PROPERTY MARKET STEADIES Despite the recent examinerships, which saw some retail chains force down rents, some stability is returning to the prime-retail property market in terms of rents and activity.

Jones Lang LaSalle is of the opinion that reputational damage associated with examinerships does not seem to concern retailers anymore. Property consultants, CBRE, meanwhile, points out that while the examinership route is prohibitively expensive for most retailers, it expects “to see other retailers following suit and strategically going into examinership over the coming months in an effort to cut their Irish operating costs”.

CRBE also reports that Monsoon Accessorize has emerged from examinership having repudiated leases on nine of their stores and agreed reduced rental terms with landlords on the remaining stores, while 12 of the Pamela Scott stores that were in examinership have done deals with landlords.

Jones Lang Lasalle estimates prime Zone A rents in Grafton Street range between €350 and €420 per square foot, while those in Henry Street range between €280 and €340 per square foot. This compares to CBRE’s estimates for the former at €4,000 per square metre (€372 per square foot) and the latter at €3,500 per square metre (€325 per square foot).

Florence Stanley, Deputy Managing Director at CBRE, says that the market is somewhat of an enigma as even though retail sales are subdued, strong volumes of transactional activity are being recorded in the retail property sector.

CAMEL ACTIVE FOOTWEAR PRESENTS ITS GORE-TEX COLLECTION Camel Active footwear is continuing its successful partnership with W. L. Gore & Associates GmbH once again this season. The lifestyle brand lends an on-trend look to casual ladies’ and men’s footwear that’s designed to be practical.

In addition to the Gore-Tex membranes, warm linings, great fit, fast lacing, exchangeable insoles and shock absorbent features make the footwear the ultimate in comfort.

All the footwear is waterproof and breathable.

The Scandinavia comes with a stylish moccasin seam. The high-quality pull-up leather, combined with fine suede, creates striking contrasts. The robust sole with profile provides a good grip on snow and ice.

the business trend for 2013, despite the current clothing crisis due to the weather, which has made things difficult for summer fashion.

Above all, the expansive shirt lines of Olymp Luxor and Olymp Level Five, as well as the new Olymp knitwear segment, are progressing well. The export sales volumes too have continued to improve. Mid-year turnover was at €95.4 million and thus around eight per cent up on the same period for last year.”

Olymp’s own network of branches is also continuing to grow. At present there are 45 mono brand stores in good sales locations in many German cities and in Austria, as well as several franchise partners. In the course of the year, three to four more openings within Germany and two new stores in Austria are planned. This will make 50 Olymp stores by the year’s end.

The Evolution is an ultra-light, casual outdoor shoe for men in a combination of suede and smooth leather.

The Forester is a sleek climbing boot with eyecatching eyelets and a wide rubber bottom.

The Bormio is a streamlined, trendy ladies’ ankle boot, which features smooth leather and suede, with seams in a contrasting colour and a slightly slouchy appearance to the shaft.

The eye-catching outsole with a crepe look is not just attractive, but makes the boot a practical companion whatever the weather.

The Vancouver is a sturdy, lace-up women’s boot - its mountaineering feel stands out with its fashionable combination of nubuck and suede.

In the first quarter of the year, the domestic retail investment market attracted a spend of over €47 million, around 14 per cent of the overall Irish investment spend in the period.

The most significant retail investment to take place recently comprised of two prime retail units, 103 and 104 Grafton Street, which were sold for €40 million to a German investor.

CHARITY SHOPS AVOID GRAFTON STREET BAN The controversy over locating charity shops on Dublin’s Grafton Street ended when councillors voted to drop a plan that would have banned them from the city’s most up-market street.

According to the Irish Independent, the proposed ban was included in new planning controls to prohibit outlets including sex shops, fast-food restaurants, hairdressers, offlicences, arcades, bookmakers and charity shops, which, it was claimed, would “detract from the character of the street”.

But an amendment to the plan, proposed by Labour councillor Dermot Lacey and seconded by Fianna Fail councillor Mary Fitzpatrick, removed charity shops from the list.

Henry Street

OLYMP RECORDS INCREASING SALES AND POSITIVE TURNOVER FIGURES

Grafton Street

Germany’s Olymp Bezner GmbH & Co. KG has continued to grow very successfully both at home and abroad in 2013. The manufacturer of high quality men’s shirts, polos, ties and knitted goods has once again achieved growth of around eight per cent in the first half-year of 2013.

The company’s owner and CEO, Mark Bezner, explains that, “up to now, we are pleased with

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“This is very good news for the people of Dublin and the charities they support. The decision recognises the contribution charity shops like Oxfam make and their role in connecting people here with other communities around the world,” Oxfam Ireland chief executive Jim Clarken told the Sunday Independent.

According to Paul Hughes of the Irish Charity Shops Association, the value of the Irish charity shops to good causes could be higher than €35m.

News

FLY LONDON NAMED FASHION FOOTWEAR BRAND OF THE YEAR FLY London was recently given the award Fashion Footwear Brand of the Year.

Organised by Datateam Business Media for the industry, with the support from the British Footwear Association, the Independent Footwear Retailers Association, the Society of Shoe Fitter, and Footwear Today, the Footwear Industry Awards recognise those in the footwear industry who display innovation and forward thinking, alongside traditional sales and business acumen.

This award recognised Fly London’s consistent sales performance in the United Kingdom and reinforces the brand’s awareness worldwide.

The UK is the company’s leading market and also home of two Fly London flagship stores - the first in Covent Garden area and the second in St Christopher’s Place, near Oxford Street.

CAMEL ACTIVE APPOINTS NEW BRAND MANAGER Camel Active licensing partner Dornbusch, which is responsible for knitwear and shirts, has appointed Michael Glans Pedersen as the new Camel Active Brand Manager and Sales Manager.

The 43-year-old took over the reins from Peter Hillen in July and will be working closely with master licensor CMLC GmbH, thereby contributing significantly to the growth and development of the Camel Active brand at Dornbusch.

Pedersen will also be responsible for managing all sales activities for menswear as well as for brand management. He previously worked for two years as International Sales Director at eterna Mode GmbH and five years as International Sales Manager at Siegfried Leithäuser GmbH & Co. KG.

Gerard Burke, GB Agencies 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Rd, Dublin 24. t: +353 1 429 5709/429 5553 f: +353 1 429 5554 m: +353 87 797 5555 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland e: gerard@gbagencies.ie

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News er T. Lipop for Autumn/Winter 2013.

HANNON’S CELEBRATES 75 YEARS IN BUSINESS

Inspired by the historical lineage of British Fashion, T. Lipop’s signature is a seamless blend of progressive cutting techniques, luxurious fabrics and technology that brings minimalism to the fore with a considered, yet veiled, complexity.

Congratulations to Hannon’s of Castleisland, which celebrated its 75th year in business on this June.

Originally called ‘A Little Frock Shop’, the independent retailer was set up in 1938 by Julieanne Hannon after her husband passed away at a young age. Some time later, one of her six children, Joseph, showed a great interest in fashion and helped the business to grow and expand over the years; he was extremely artistic and his window displays were always admired and a talking point by people passing. Matt O’Donoghue, one of Ireland’s top designers in the late 70s, mentioned how Hannon’s window displays reminded him of those in New York.

Jill and Lorna, Joseph’s daughters, joined the business full time 20 years ago. After he passed away in 2009, Joseph’s other daughter, Susan, joined her sisters in the business, while their mother, Joseph’s wife, Sheila, has been keeping the accounts in order for some time.

Seventy-five years after it first opened its doors, Hannon’s of Castleisland has become one of the leading independent fashion stores in Ireland with ladies from all over the country travelling to purchases the latest trends.

Here’s to another 75 years!

Hannon’

The capsule collection draws on a range of masculine influences as T. Lipop clashes elements of tailoring and sportswear, functional details and decadent wool and leather fabrications, creating a new direction for River Island Menswear. Statement accessories such as the black calfskin rucksack and mirrored rounded frames draw on an authentic military aesthetic.

Since graduation, Tom Lipop has held senior design positions at Nathan Jenden, House Of Holland and Griffin Laundry before he founded his own label.

Hannon’s management and staff

The 16-piece collection will be available to buy in selected stores and online from the beginning of September 2013.

MEYER-HOSEN AG APPOINTS NEW BOARD MEMBER Meyer-Hosen AG, the leading European specialist in men’s trousers with its brands MMX and Meyer, recently appointed Sven Wandres as a new management board member.

Wandres will take responsibility for sales, marketing, IT and logistics.

Hannons 75th Birthday

The 37-year-old previously spent 11 years working as sales and marketing expert for a global strategy consulting firm and was on the Supervisory Board of Meyer-Hosen AG since 2011.

TIMBERLAND CELEBRATES 40 YEARS OF ITS ICONIC YELLOW BOOT Inspired by the harsh New England elements, a yellow, waterproof boot called The Timberland was first introduced in 1973. Crafted with Yankee ingenuity and designed to provide durability, protection and clean, simple style, this boot was the first of its kind – and certainly best in its class.

Jill Hannon, Kerry Rose Gemma Kavanagh & Sheila Hannon

RIVER ISLAND’S FIRST DESIGN FORUM LOOKS TO MENSWEAR Hannon’s first ever advert appeared in The Kerryman

After three hugely successful womenswear collaborations, River Island’s Design Forum initiative sets it sights on menswear talent, this time handing the reigns over to British design-

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This year, to celebrate 40 years of this iconic boot, Timberland will pay homage by introducing the Timberland 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Collection – a rugged style remix that takes cues from the archives, including the classic 6” silhouette and our most coveted retro packaging.

“Our storied past has taken us from humble New England roots to global hubs of commerce and style. This limited edition collection is one way we can pay tribute to our crafted past while bringing something fresh

News and inspired to those who have helped us become the brand we are today,” says Lisa Demarkis, Vice President of Footwear, Timberland.

To mark the turnkey year in which the boot was first introduced, 1,973 pairs of the Timberland Classic 6” Premium Boot, the Timberland World Hiker and the Super Boot are being produced globally – each pair featuring its limited edition issue number on the inside tongue. They will available in September, October and November, respectively.

All styles will be packaged in a special retro box and fabric shoe bag, inspired by the brand’s most coveted packaging.

TOMMY HILFIGER LAUNCHES CAPSULE FOOTWEAR COLLECTION WITH GEORGE ESQUIVEL The Tommy Hilfiger Group has announced the launch of the limited edition footwear collection designed by Tommy Hilfiger and George Esquivel. Featuring brogue and loafer styles for men and women, the shoes are handmade in California by skilled craftsmen using premium, locally sourced leathers and materials. The collection will pre-launch exclusively exclusively on tommy.com on 23 August before its global launch on 1 September 2013.

Tommy Hilfiger and George Esquivel

“It has been a pleasure to collaborate with George Esquivel to create a capsule collection of unique footwear that blends classic styles with a fresh twist,” said Tommy Hilfiger.

“I first met George through the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund program and was immediately drawn to his unique take on the classics.”

Timberland

Just 900 pairs of shoes have been produced for the collection, and each pair is assigned a one-of-a-kind shoe number, included in the shoebox.

A unique digital campaign will invite bloggers to participate in a “co-creative process.”

Selected bloggers will be invited to meet George Esquivel at his LA studio, where they will have the opportunity to personalise their own shoes to give away to their followers.

Gerard Burke, GB Agencies 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Road, Dublin 24. futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland t: +353 1 429 5709/429 5553 f: +353 1 429 5554 m: +353 87 797 5555 e: gerard@gbagencies.ie

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News

PENNEYS’ WORKERS IN LINE FOR PAY RISE Penneys’ workers are in line for a three per cent pay rise following a labour court recommendation.

In Bloom is ideal for both occasionwear and the Mother of the Bride markets and is sure to attract the attention of buyers looking for something special.

“synergy” across its portfolio.

For Spring ’14, Superbra will be renamed Panache, while Cleo and Masquerade will take on the suffix ‘by Panache’. The design has been tweaked to create more distinction between them.

Panache hopes the rebrand will increase sales at its various stockists, although did not reveal targets. It is also expanding internationally, with Brazil next on its radar.

More than 3,000 staff at the retail chain will benefit from the new recommendation made after a private hearing at the start of June 2013. The court wrote to both management and the unions in recent days recommending an immediate pay rise. Penneys’ managers received a two per cent pay increase earlier this year, but lower-paid workers missed out.

The Mandate trade union had looked for pay increases, an extra day’s leave for staff and the abolition of lower pay for workers under the age of 18, arguing that the company was highly profitable. Penneys’ management responded, stating that it was prepared to offer pay rises, but wanted concessions from staff in return. The concessions included changes to unsocial hours payments and new pay rates and scales for people taking up new employment with the company.

The management also drew attention to the fact that it had given an eight per cent pay rise in 2008 and another 3.5 per cent in 2010.

The request for an extra day’s annual leave was opposed on the grounds that labour costs were already high. The company, however, said it was willing to abolish the under-18 pay rate as part of a wider agreement.

It also recommended the introduction of a new standardised sick pay for all new entrants to the company and refused to uphold the company’s claim for new pay scales and rates.

NEW IRISH AGENT APPOINTED FOR ESCOLA Spanish ladieswear label has appointed Burns & Vaughan as its agent in Ireland. Although based in Belfast, the company is currently showing the SS14 collection in Fashion City, Dublin 24.

CAMEL ACTIVE LADIESWEAR APPOINTS IRISH AGENT STUNNING NEW DRESS COLLECTION BY OLVI’S OF HOLLAND Olvi’s, the Lace Collection, brings its new stretch silk, handmade dress collection to the catwalk this season.

Lined in silk with varying hemlines and sleeves available, the collection, which is simply entitled, In Bloom, also boasts a shortorder eight-week turnaround.

The stylish, flattering dresses come in a variety of colours and are cleverly cut to enhance the figure. Available in plain or printed silk, some also incorporate Olvi’s legendary lace as an option.

Following on from its successful recent launch, Camel Active has appointed Ash Stephenson of Enya Ltd. as the agent in Ireland for its ladieswear collection.

A former buyer for Fitzgerald’s of Waterford, Stephenson has several years’ experience in the fashion sector.

REBRAND FOR PANACHE BRAS Lingerie specialist Panach is rolling out a rebrand of its sub-brands as it looks to ramp up sales in the UK and beyond.

As a result of research across shoppers, stockists and distributors, head of marketing, Jennie Field, said sub-brands would, in future, incorporate the Panache name to create more

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Inspired by Eastern culture, the range fuses simplicity and pureness in its design and aesthetic. Tropical textures and warm, ethnic applications, such as pearls and transparent sequins, are complemented by striped knits, jacquard with intarsia and attractive knitwear.

the best of german collections

Made in Germany Germany may not (yet) be one of Europe’s established fashion meccas, but it ranks as one of the fastest growing international fashion hubs.

With its many high end designers, established fashion houses and clothing brands, Germany is looking up to be one of the world’s leading countries for fashion.

Casa Moda

Camel Active

Brax

Betty Barclay

Lerros

Faber

Michèle Hajo

Eterna

Brax

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Gollehaug

Casa Moda

Hajo Gelco

Betty Barclay

Eterna

Camel Active

Olymp

Faber

Gollehaug Gelco

Lerros

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 13

Vox Pop

As German brands continue to prosper in the Irish market, we ask five independent ladieswear retailers across the country to share their views on why so many German labels have found success on Irish soil and what marks them out from their competitors.

What are your best-selling German brands?

What, in your opinion, makes German fashion different?

Have you encountered any problems with deliveries?

How is the sell-through?

Where do you view the German collections?

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SINÉAD CODY

ALISON O’MEARA

OF CHOICE,

OF BURGESS,

SANDYCOVE,

ATHLONE,

CO. DUBLIN

CO. WESTMEATH

Our best seller, without a doubt, is Steilmann.

Our two top brands would be Gerry Weber and Olsen.

The sizes are wonderful – they are exactly what they say they are. For example, a 12 is a 12, and not a small 14 or a large 10. The cut and fabric are also really great too.

Their fit is excellent. They cater for a certain type of woman who has been forgotten about by other labels. And the quality is really great.

No, absolutely not. Everything has always run efficiently.

No, never. Their deliveries are top class.

Excellent – there’s great demand for the German brands. So much so, our customers will actually be waiting for the new stock to come in.

Like everything, they have taken a dip but the German brands are holding their own. Sell through would be about 65% 75%, which is not bad at all in this climate.

We have a buyer who is always out and about, tirelessly travelling from fair to fair to ensure that we have the best trends and styles for customers.

We always attend their showrooms in England.

EMMA KELLY

RÓISÍN WOODS

SARA FORRISTAL

OF SERENA,

OF MCELHINNEY’S,

SANDYMOUNT,

BALLYBOFFEY,

OF OLIVE’S BOUTIQUE, DROGHEDA

DUBLIN 4

CO DONEGAL

CO LOUTH

Gardeur does great business for us – their trousers are always popular.

Oui, Gerry Weber, Betty Barclay and Basler.

Steilman has always done great business for us here.

Their sizes are great and are a really good fit for the Irish figure; Italian and French brands often tend to be too small.

Quality and fit – their collections fit an Irish women’s silhouette, plus the quality of fabric and manufacturing are unwavering.

No, none whatsoever.

No, they have always been very reliable.

Usually, it’s very good.

They have a lot of all-year items, like the trousers, that don’t need to go into sales.

We work with a lot of Irish wholesalers who attend the many fairs in the UK and Europe.

Their clothes are always of the highest quality with excellent coordinates.

Sizes are great and, as described – a 10 is a 10 - which isn’t always the case with brands from other countries. German companies spend money on design and production, never cutting corners and always using the best fabrics. They wash well and last, giving great value for money.

Never.

Positive results consistently.

Good.

In the UK

We have an agent in Fashion City who we visit.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 15

John Kennedy Agencies Sheep Leather Jacket €74.00

offer you the best in ladies’ and children’s fashion brands for SS14 at their new Dublin Showroom at 10B Fashion City

An opportunity to join with successful retailers who enjoy a good sell-out with brands that work.

Vila Joy – Dresses, Separates and Coordinates An in-season range with the advantage of new styles coming in every week. Vila Joy is styled to meet market demands and upto-the-minute fashion in fabulous styles and colours. Amazing quality, great size specs and magnificent prices.

Top €14.80

A full range of dresses, skirts, trousers and knitwear in both Citywear and Casualwear in a selection of florals and prints.

Customers pick a style in a colour they then get a pack of S, M, L, XL, XXL and can get 2.7 mark-up.

The order is processed and the customer gets their goods delivered within 7 days (free delivery).

SOMEONE – Kidswear Trousers €14.80

From the makers of Vila Joy, SOMEONE offers a full range of boys’ and girls’ wear in high fashion styles. A full range of skirts, Bermudas, shirts; T-shirts, tops, shorts and urban skirts now on view, with good prices too!

Top €11.40

NEW SHOWROOMS AT 10b Fashion City, M50 Business Park, Ballymount, Dublin 24 John Kennedy on 087 6760785, Ian Kavanagh on 085 8700672, email futura | menswear in jk1964@eircom.net ireland | footwear in ireland 16

Top €11.40

News

Rino & Pelle - Jackets for girls and women The Rino & Pelle Spring 2014 jackets are magic and offer super quality and detail in a splendid colour palette and with affordable prices from €26.00.

Cardigan €12.95

Jacket €32.00

Summer jackets are available in fabulous leathers, light weight fabric jackets and brilliantly priced PU leather jackets Now also showing current Autumn / Winter Stock for immediate delivery.

Dress €22.20

Fransa - Separates and Co-ordinates.

Spring / Summer 2014 Fransa has proved itself as a highly profile fashion brand in Denmark and a number of important export markets. Fransa offers you a complete mix ‘n’ match collection. Ultra-feminine and decorated styles for special occasions, a fashion mixture for the office and more casual styles for leisure. Fransa covers all of these needs. For Spring / Summer 2014 FRANSA have a lovely collection of Danish separates and coordinates.

John Kennedy Agencies have also invested in IT over the past six months also putting in new systems which takes them to a new level with Social Media to the fore.

Leggings €7.40

Each season flyers, cards and brochures are produced for buyers, which gives them a better feel for the collections and point-of-sale material for display purposes.

Continuous investment in trade shows, stock and market research bringing findings and knowledge to the Irish retailer.

John Kennedy Agencies new showrooms at 10B, Fashion City, is opposite Rogers cafe and centrally located at Fashion City, with a new logo to link in with this.

Ian Kavanagh Sales Manager works tirelessly with suppliers and customers and is well liked and respected by the industry. Also on hand, John Kennedy and the Sales team are delighted to meet with you and take you through the new S/S 2014 ranges and their current stock collections.

For appointments, call Ian Kavanagh at 085 8700672 or John Kennedy at 087 6760785. Visit us during Fashion Coming Together at Fashion City, August 25th-26th.

NEW SHOWROOMS AT 10b Fashion City, M50 Business Park, Ballymount, Dublin 24 John Kennedy on 087 6760785, Ian Kavanagh on 085 8700672, email jk1964@eircom.net

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 17

trends

CATWALK TRENDS In Living Colour

Colours

London Men’s Fashion Week recently drew to a close, revealing some of the key looks and trends for SS14. As indicators go, the significance of the event cannot be overstated – what appears on the catwalk filters it way down to the high street and, ultimately, finds its way into the nation’s wardrobes.

Casa Moda

Roy Robson

Sunglasses at the ready! SS14 is shaping up to be one of the most vibrant seasonal collections in quite some time. Colours are bursting through in all manner of hues, from sunny yellows and rich red to, perhaps the dominant colour of the season, an assortment of greens.

Bruhl SS14

Meyer Hosen

Club of Gents

Skin Trade Just like you have six months or so to make the most of your skinny jeans, you have a similar amount of time to perfect your pecs for the barely-there statement T-shirts that will be all the rage.

Sibling SS14

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James Long SS14

For proof of the trend, look no further than the James Long SS14 collection, which was inspired by cyclists. Boundary-pushing menswear label Sibling also tapped into the trend, teaming what is the T-shirt equivalent of the G-string with sequined and leopard print track pants.

C ORMAC JON ES // C J AGE NCIE S FA SHI ON CI T Y U N IT 37, FI RS T F L OOR BA LLYMOUNT ROAD UPPE R, D UBLI N 24, I RE L AND. T: +3 53 (0 ) 1 4295948 / 087 99788 5 3 C ORMACJONESAGE NCIE S@GM AIL .C O M

W W W. F LY 5 3 . C O M

Boy Meets Girl

Mr Start 2014

trends

If you take anything from London Men’s Fashion Week, let it be this: unisex is IN. Led by JW Anderson and his attention-grabbing halter-neck top (yes, for men!), the unisex revolution is upon us for SS14, and if the runway is anything to go by, will see men everywhere pilfering their girlfriends’ wardrobes to get in on the action.

Atypical necklines, tailoring, floral print and fabrics are symptomatic of this trend du jour, but if dressing like a girl holds about as much appeal as a hair sandwich, fear not as likely to be paired back for mainstream consumption before it hits the shelves.

Topman Design

JW Anderson SS14

Topman Design

Richard Nicolll SS14 Katie Chutzpah SS14

SlĂĄn, Skinny Jeans Bad news for skinny jean aficionados: their days are numbered.

Wide leg trousers dominated the London catwalks with Topman Design, JW Anderson, and Margaret Howell all tapping into the trend. That leaves just about six months to milk your skinnies, gents.

Margaret Howell Topman Design Topman Design

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SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION 2014 We combine traditional craftsmanship with fashionable demand. Founded in 1918 – we create shirts from Classic to Casual with decades of experience and comprehensive know-how of unique quality with a good price-performance ratio.

Ollie Campbell Limited · Phase 4 · Unit 42a/1 Fashion City · Ballymount · Dublin 24 · Ireland Ph: 00 353 1 429 5088 · Fax: 00 353 1 429 5088 · Mobile: 00 353 86 876 8096 · Email: olliec@iol.ie 33840_Dorn_Anz_Menswear_Irland_FS14.indd 1

02.08.13 08:46

trends

Matthew Miller SS14

While sports-luxe was undeniably the dominant theme on the catwalk at London Fashion Week (from Sibling to Astrid Anderson), there was one sport that seemed to hold the greatest influence – skateboarding – with designers Katie Eary, Richard Nicoll, Casely-Hayford and Matthew Miller all jumping on the skatewagon, sorry, bandwagon.

Christopher Kane SS14

Skater Boy

Katie Eary SS14

Katie Eary SS14

Christopher Kane SS14

Casely-Hayford SS14

showyourejockey.com

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Digitalism With the explosion of the wearable tech clothing industry this year, it’s not surprising that a digital motif has weaved its way into the designs of regular clothes, too.

Christopher Kane and Jonathon Saunders stood out as the pioneers in this respect, with Kane taking prints from old CAD renderings and Saunders using distorted bit map images in his graphics. Even high street giant Topman went digital, with its very own collection of techno-cowboys.

A trend that will quite easily translate from catwalk to high street, digitalism is certainly one to watch for SS14.

advertorial

Six of the Best at CJ Agencies CJ Agencies was established in 2011 after the UK retailer JD Sports bought the Italian sports brand FILA, where company founder Cormac Jones had worked for nine years as Sales Manager for the Irish market. Cormac was subsequently offered the agency for FILA and now, two years on, the agency represents six labels in both the sports and fashion side of the business.

A veteran of the industry, Cormac boasts 20 years’ experience in the Sports & Fashion business yet retains his infectious passion

and excitement for his trade. “I still love seeing the new ranges arriving and getting the showrooms set up for the season ahead,” he says.

In addition to leading sports brands – Fila, Russell Athletic and K-Swiss - CJ Agencies represents the Portuguese footwear brand Beppi, UK fashion brand FLY53 and Dutch Elements, a popular Dutch ladies’ outerwear label by Interstar Modes.

CJ Agencies prides itself on its service, Cormac mentions. “We pride ourselves on

looking after the brands we represent as if they were our own labels and also looking after our customers, both from a sales and marketing side, and we look forward to growing our business even in these challenging times.”

The company operates from a beautifully appointed 2,000 sq ft showroom at Unit 37, Fashion City, where the light-filled space affords CJ Agencies the opportunity to showcase its respective brands in the best possible light.

Beppi

Russell Athletic

A popular Portuguese footwear brand with ultrac o m p e t i t iv e price points, Beppi offers both daily business and forward orders on a wide range of leather and canvas designs. The company also boasts extenisve stock availability all year round, making it ideal for the retailer that needs to fill in any gaps through the season.

With over 100 years’ heritage, Russel Athletic is an iconic American sportswear brand. It offers a great range of clothing both casual and sportswear for men and women.

FLY53

K-Swiss Back with a vengeance, the Californian footwear brand is tipped for a bright future, having re-focused its energies on the fashion sportstyle footwear collection in the sports and fashion market.

FILA An iconic Italian sport brand with an enviable heritage in the tennis market, dataing back from the 70’s with the Borg era, FILA is set to impress in SS14 with its large tennis collection and a vintage fashion range.

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FLY53 menswear is free-thinking, savvy and has a streetwear sensibility as a backbone with a touch of the quirky UK creative, combined with an outlaw’s perspective on life. Their new SS14 collection highlights trends with sublimation and tie-dye tees alongside graphics with their trademark subversion of message, as well as traditionally strong staples; outerwear and newly enlarged denim offering. The cherry on top is a price architecture designed to protect margins and generate sell-through.

Dutch Elements

by Interstar A ladieswear outerwear brand with over 40 years’ experience in manufacturing, Dutch Elements is renowned for its fit, quality and competitive pricing; jackets retail from €109.

Vox Pop

As German brands continue to prosper in the Irish market, we ask five independent menswear retailers across the country to share their views on why so many German labels have found success on Irish soil and what marks them out from their competitors.

What are your best-selling German brands?

JOSEPH MCNAB OF JOHN CAHILL’S MENSWEAR, RATHFARNAM SCR

GRÁINNE DUGGAN OF RICHARD DUGGAN’S, KILKENNY

We have great success with Meyer, Casa Moda, Bugatti, Bruhl and Baumler.

Our top three brands would be Meyer, Bruhl and Digel.

Technically, they’re different. Our customers’ profile would be men over the age of 45, and, as a result, their trousers and suits need some extra room to accommodate fluctuating weight. German brands tend to have elastic around the waist, offering a slight stretch and extra comfort.

Their cut is sharper and tailored with a much nicer shaped leg. German designs are always guaranteed to be neat and tidy.

Have you encountered any problems with deliveries?

No. Our agents have been using the same brands for years now so if there are any faults, these issues are dealt with straight away.

No, not at all. Our German brands are long established so any problems are dealt with immediately.

How is the sell-through?

Our garments are quite specific and, as a result, there is very little stock left at the end of the season.

Meyer and Bruhl are our two bestsellers, which means there is very little stock left come sale time.

Agents would hold shows in their storerooms, which we attend to check out colours and designs.

We would often travel to our rep’s showhouses in Dublin, but also select from catalogues since we are very familiar with our brands at this stage.

What, in your opinion, makes German fashion different?

Where do you view the German collections?

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News

ALAN O’DONOVAN OF SAVILLE MENSWEAR, CORK

EAMONN TRAVEY OF TRAVEY MENSWEAR, CO. MONAGHAN

JAMES LYDON OF HANLEY’S, GALWAY

Our main brands are Baumler, Hugo Boss and Bugatti.

Our best-selling label would be Meyer, without a doubt. We used to stock Baumler suits, but not at the moment.

Hugo Boss does wonderful business for us.

Like everything German, their quality is superior.

They have a cleaner, more sophisticated cut than other brands that are contemporary but not overly colourful.

There is mighty wear out of them. Their material is good quality and very durable.

No problems, and, if there are any, they are ironed out immediately.

Never. German brands are brilliant and reliable.

Everything is always on time.

Because these are premium, recognisible brands, they sell extremely well.

We also re-examine stock often and if there are certain labels not selling, we will rest them.

In general, we still haven’t recovered from the recession so there will always be stock left over, which we will then take into our sales. You have to be careful when ordering stock, particularly how much stock.

We visit showrooms in Dublin and London.

We go to Fashion City in Dublin.

Their cut is clean, neat and defined, always well presented.

No, we’ve never had any problems. Our suppliers are extremely efficient.

Even though they are that bit more expensive, there is still a customer for them.

While not as successful as a few years ago, sales for our German brands have been steady.

We visit various showrooms in Dublin and the UK.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 27

menswear collections

Collection Reports A FISH NAMED FRED For its SS14 collection, the Amsterdam-based lifestyle features a host of original design prints and a diverse range of shirts with quirky detailing.

Fashion highlights include matching polos in jersey and pique with colourful collars, creative T-shirts and smooth, brushed cotton chino pants. Colours, meanwhile, are loud and proud, infusing the collection with a vibrant energy and eye-catching aesthetic.

CARL GROSS Carl Gross have improved and extended their NOS (never out of stock) range of suits. Thre are now three blocks to choose from: the slimline, the middle block and the regular silhouette.

In addition to the 50 patterns suggested, there are now 12 suits offered to sell at €349 and fashion suits to sell at €299. Also available is a comprehensive range of innovative jeans jackets from stock.

CASA MODA Boston and Cape Cod provide the overriding themes for the SS14 collection. The urban style of the former is defined by a blue base of royal through to a refined midnight blue, with green and magenta or red and turquoise providing the decorative elements of each of the two colourways; while the colour scale of the second supply date, ‘Wellfleet Harbour’, echoes the colours of the small harbours and coastal towns around Cape Cod. Shirt fabrics have a natural sense of high quality. Plains and plain-type structures/patterns, including Oxfords, micro-houndstooth and strikingly coloured grid checks, are a key theme. The main focus remains on authentic check, although stripes are becoming more important.

DORNBUSCH OPTIMA The Optima line of non-iron shirts are made from 100 per cent pure cotton, providing excellent wearing comfort and ensuring the fabric is pleasantly soft and loose on the skin.

The shirts are simply washed and dried after use, making them a supremely practical ready-to-wear option for the man who wishes to be well-dressed all day long.

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ETERNA The visual equivalent of a summer holiday, Eterna’s collection features fresh tones, strong flash colours, elegant summer stripes and modern bleach pastels. The summer vibe is accentuated by the use of floral patterns, bleached pastel shades, vivid colour blends and clever detailing.

Cuffs and classic collar styles, such as cutaway and Kent, have been updated, while cuffs have been reduced in size and the fold format has been updated. Fits, meanwhile, include Eterna’s proven Comfort Fit, Modern Fit and figure-hugging Slim Fit styles, while fabrics focus on cotton and non-iron materials.

FLY 53 FLY53 is free-thinking, savvy and has a streetwear sensibility as a backbone with a touch of the quirky UK creative, combined with an outlaw’s perspective on life.

The new SS14 collection highlights trends with sublimation and tie-dye tees alongside graphics with their trademark subversion of message, as well as traditionally strong staples; outerwear and newly enlarged denim offering. The cherry on top is a price architecture designed to protect margins and generate sell-through.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 29

menswear collections

JACK MURPHY Handsome, smart and quintessentially country with a contemporary twist, the collection fuses fashion and function to create a comprehensive clothing range.

Garments encompass fine knits, trendy shirts in traditional country checks, understated fleece styles, striking quilts and contemporary canvas and classically styled waxes.

With a colour palette of cool blues and refreshing citrus tones, along with shades of indulgent Carrot Cake, Storm, Heritage Navy, Coffee Cake, Mocha, Toad Hall, Java Chip and Burnt Umber, this timeless collection simply radiates warmth, charm and resilience.

Jockey NOS Jockey has given its NOS range a makeover for 2014, with its first line in USA Originals collection. The range of trunks, boxer trunks and tshirts uses a classic palette of black and white, but for 2014 Jockey has included coloured options in red, navy and grey.

The soft fabric consists of 95% cotton and 5% elastane using no seams to provide wearers with the best comfort and optimum fit. The style features a high quality waistband, logo and coloured stripes. The range also features a longer length version in all of the trunks.

NOS USA Originals Cotton Stretch will be available from the end of 2013. T-shirts will be sold in a duo pack, shorts and boxers in multipacks of three, while the entire collection will be available online at jockey.co.uk

LERROS Available through Irish agent Dan O’Callaghan, Lerros has come up trumps for SS14 with a collection that offers high-quality contemporary fashion at affordable prices.

Styling is on-trend yet accessible, providing plenty of appeal for the aged 30+ man who is interested in a smart casual sportswear look that combines quality and affordability.

In addition to the new season’s collection, Lerros’ NOS system offers the retailer the opportunity to increase sales and profits through the permanent availability in the required sizes, which reduces the storage risk and money tied up in capital.

MEYER HOSEN The new collection features a wealth of details and impresses with fresh, clear colours, high quality fabrics and summery designs. Features have been redesigned and adapted to suit the three Meyer collection ranges: Comfort, Modern and Premium.

The Modern segment features modern tailoring and rich contrasts, and showcases new multi-coloured yarns. The Premium segment, meanwhile, focuses on elegant fabricswith pima cotton and kapok.

Silhouettes are predominantly slim and modern, particularly in jeans and new chino styles with special pocket solutions and decorative stitching, while new, vibrant summer colours set the tone.

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MMX Only three years since it started out, the young fashion line from Meyer Hosen AG has already gained a firm foothold in the market and has won over fashion-conscious customers in almost every European country.

The label’s SS14 collection looks to build on this success with its bright, fresh and positive aesthetic. Intelligent details are the key to the tongue-in-cheek style of the range - colourful and contrasting seams, ivory nut buttons and stunning linings round characterise the garments, which showcase a perfect fit, high quality materials and exclusive designs.

Styles are casually elegant but never pretentious, while silhouettes remain slim. Over a decade’s worth of tailoring expertise guarantees optimal wearing comfort in a full range of sizes.

MONTI BELTS Available through John Hayes, Monti is a specialist in high quality men’s belts. The range runs the gamut of styles and includes a large collection of NOS belts for suits, trousers and jeans. Prices are walletfriendly while sizes are available from 32-48.

OLYMP A harmonious combination of technical and natural, formal and casual forms the basis for an inventive, sophisticated yet relaxed season. This impression is emphasised by graduated monochrome shades and calm colour combinations, deliberately broken up by striking contrasts.

A diverse palette sees an emphasis on pastels, which are supplemented by neutral natural tones such as stone or grey, as well as bleu and royal blue. Prints are similarly embraced, whether in the form of dots, printed stripes or even modified Hawaiian prints on poplin or denim.

Collars are more compact than previously while clever styling sees the use of monochrome facings, contrasting buttonholes and striking buttons. A new addition, meanwhile, is it the Level Five casual shirt, which has a modern, fitted cut and appears in washed cotton, indigo fabrics and pure linen.

SKOPES Whether it’s graduation time, the annual Debs ball or simply a black-tie function, Skopes has just the stock: mix-andmatch dress suits and mix-and-match fashion suits to sell at €149.99.

The new addition of bright blues and electric blues move the mix-and-match offer to a very modern palette of colours to choose from. In addition to quality suits at competitive prices, Skopes also carries a substantial range of fashion jackets to sell at €124.99. Everything is from stock and all merchandise carry a mark-up of at least three.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 31

canadian collections

Made in Canada The country’s beautiful landscape is not only a big part of Canada’s lifestyle but also its design houses’ look. Lululemon’s athletic apparel, for example, and Roots’ active wear have collected cult followings both at home and abroad.

Beyond function, however, Canadian fashion isn’t to be dismissed. While mass-market clothing retailer Club Monaco originated in Toronto, up-and-coming designers such as Obakki and Vivian Shyu are making increasingly large waves in the fashion sector.

Elsewhere, outerwear specialist Mackage has become the go-to label for celebrities such as Rihanna, while Christine Vancouver’s beautiful lingerie may just be Vancouver’s best-kept secret.

JOSEPH RIBKOFF Beautiful fabrics, bold floral prints, glamorous rhinestone embellishment, lace print and faux leather and suede trims are just some of the details that make this a collection that catches the eye for all the right reasons.

The new dress collection mixes flattering lines with inspired designs. Key pieces include sophisticated wrap dresses and sharp collared dresses.

The peplum, meanwhile, promises to be another important trend.

Inspired by jewel tones, the palette is rich in color, ranging from Bordeaux and emerald to royal blue and deep purple; and is combined with touches of mustard and burnt orange to create unique rich mixes of colors.

CARTISE

NUEVA

For nearly 40 years, the label’s vision is to create beautiful clothing that fits most body types, and allows women to express their own personal style.

A fashion house that always puts the customer first, Nueva provides exciting, fresh, merchandise that appeals to the modern, fashion-forward woman.

Flattering fits provide an extensive mix of novelty lifestyle separates and exciting options for day, evening and every special occasion.

The designs, meanwhile, are conceived to allow women to unleash their confidence and femininity.

Although based in Canada, the company’s garments can also be found in fine boutiques throughout the world. Collections are designed and produced in Québec, resulting in quality, well-cut garments and timely deliveries.

In addition to multi-brand stores throughout the world, the brand can also be found in Cartise corporate and franchised stores in the Montreal area.

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The SS14 collection, features a new section focused on fashion for the Mother of the Bride. Garments are feminine and free, filled with lightweight and textured fabrics and embellished trims, and featuring beautiful florals and sorbets.

JosephRibkoff.com | Official sponsor of Mc Gurk Fashion Group | Tel 01 4295353 | Email Rorymcgurk@eircom.net

showtalk

Showtalk MODA, BIRMINGHAM, UK, 11-13 AUGUST, 2013 A host of brands are set to show their spring/summer 2014 collections exclusively at Moda, as the show returns to the NEC Birmingham from 11-13 August.

Shefali Couture

which will showcase the finest Irish-made items in the ‘Yes, It’s Irish’ section – include Button Studio, SP Hats, Yoshi, Lichfield Leather and Scribble and Stone.

There will also be a wide selection of international brands showing at the fair.

Further details online at autumngiftfair.com

Latte will be among the brands showing exclusively at Moda Woman. Elsewhere, trouser specialists Atelier Gardeur, Scottish brand Emreco and newcomers Mousqueton will also be among this exclusive line-up.

Yoshi Bags

FASHION COMING TOGETHER, 25-27 AUGUST, 2013

Big names from across the industry will once again lead a diverse collection of brands exhibiting at the Moda Gent.

German lifestyle brand, Gant, will join the likes of Camel Active, Florentino and Peter Werth for its first outing at the show.

Meanwhile, fellow German brand, Digel, will return with its wide and varied new season collection, which spans leisurewear, casualwear and tailoring.

More than 400 footwear brands make up Moda Footwear, including Rockport, Geox and Chatham Marine, while Austrian label Högl will makes its first appearance. Nautical trends will lead the way in men’s footwear at the show, while the women’s footwear will see the full colour spectrum from soft pastels to bold fuchsia pinks.

In addition to this diverse range of big name brands and directional labels, this season’s seminar programme will also return to provide added value, with practical advice and knowledge free of charge to all visitors. Speakers include Stylesight’s womenswear trend specialist Sandrine Maggiani, former MD of Hoopers and director of Tonik Retail, Anne Horton.

The August edition of Fashion Coming Together will take place at Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24 from 25-27 August, 2013.

The fifth of its kind, the biannual event is organised by a committee of wholesalers and agents in Fashion City as a means of promoting their respective businesses. The three-day fashion extravaganza will feature menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and accessories, and include a fashion show each day.

A diverse range of companies participating in the event will be launching their respective SS14 collections, while stock houses will have their AW13 collections available. Social events, meanwhile, will take place on the evenings of Sunday (26th) and Monday (27th), with a barbeque and music, allowing visitors to get an overview of what is on offer within a convivial setting.

The event runs from 9am-8pm on Sunday 25 August and Monday 26 August, and from 9am-6pm on Tuesday 27 August.

Moda is also launching a series of live debates featuring a panel of key industry figures, including Sue Herrick of Figleaves, Honor Westnedge of Verdict and editor of Underlines magazine, Pamela Scott.

Fashion Coming Together is open to all retailers. Pre-registration is not required; visitors can register at the marquee beside Roger’s Café on arrival.

Completing the line-up, Moda Accessories will return for its second season, hosting a variety of new and returning labels specialising in niche and quirky designs. This fashion trade event will feature evening wear, occasionwear, lingerie and swimwear as well as more intimate apparel. Footwear and men’s tailoring will also be showcased.

SIX ROADSHOW, 26 AUGUST – 4 SEPTEMBER, 2013

AUTUMN GIFT & HOME FAIR, 18-21 AUGUST, 2013

Spread out over ten days, the Roadshow will see a number of agents, including Graham Braister, Terry Hawthorne, Catherine Byrne, Chris Murray, Donnagh O’Donnagh, Paul Stewart and, making his Six Roadshow debut, Jonny Wolfston, showing their respective collections.

The place to buy and sell gifts, homewares and fashion accessories, the Autumn Gift & Home Fair will take place at Citywest from 18-21 August.

A popular addition to the trade show calendar, the fair offers the offers the widest choice in jewellery and fashion accessories available on the Irish Market.

Exhibitors confirmed for the show –

Button Studio

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The eight edition of the popular Six Roadshow kicks off on 26 August, arriving at Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, with subsequent stops scheduled in Cork (27 August), Galway (28 August), Limerick (29 August), Dublin (2 September), Templepatrick (3-4 September) and Sligo (5 September).

Organised by Terry Hawthorne, the event offers buyers a unique opportunity to view brands they might otherwise have had to travel to Milan or Germany to see. The Roadshow team looks forward to welcoming customers, old and new, to see the SS14 collections from leading brands such as Wonders, Rocketdog, Brakeburn, Keds, Softinoes and Sperry.

LONDONEDGE, LONDON, 1-3 SEPTEMBER, 2013

MOMAD METROPOLIS, MADRID, 6-8 SEPTEMBER, 2013

Now in its 14th year, LondonEdge will once again present some of the world’s most creative and exciting niches in fashion, footwear and accessories.

This September, in addition to the almighty throng of new international brands, the LondonEdge show will play host to a fantastic range of new and edgy British brands and collections. Visitors can expect to see over 30 new, never-seen-before companies showing as many as 50 collections from assorted international brands.

Labels on show will include Lindy Pop’s 1950’s-inspired fashion, The Seamstress of Bloomsbury authentic 1940’s collection, Skull Studio and their selected range of men’s and women’s t-shirts inspired by skulls, gothic, heavy metal, tribal designs and fantasy, while La Mort Clothing of London who will present their The Narcosis Collection where funerary art fuses timeless iconography with a slick, urban sensibility.

New products, such as headbands, jewellery, hats, fascinators, apparel and more, are influenced by everything and anything niche, alternative and indie ranging from vintage inspiration to 90s grunge.

For the first time, this year will see the joint staging of two of Madrid’s most prolific fairs: SIMM, the Madrid International Fashion Fair, and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL, the International Footwear and Leather Goods Fair.

Given the new name of Momad Metropolis, the main purpose of this project, which will run from 6-8 September 2013, is to guarantee a more competitive and attractive event for Spanish and foreign buyers and companies within the new worldwide economic context.

The dual showcase is expected to present a strengthened Latin American appeal, thus setting the event apart from other fairs of this kind organised throughout the world. In effect, this joint event will serve as the leading point of entry for Latin American clothing and footwear manufacturers in Europe. Both fairs will be presented at Feria de Madrid.

Xti, Mustang, Gioseppo, Coolway, Chk10, Victoria, Callaghan, Mephisto, Vidorreta, Gaimo, Pertini, Lola Cruz, Cressy, Hispanitas, Robert Clergerie, Piedelli, Guanflex, Mayoral, Puntotres, Amarillo Limón, Cantallops 1897, Cordon, Best Mountain, Charo Ruiz Ibiza, El Armario de Lulu, Jac Dismoda, Laga, Panse Café and Scripta Code are the names of just some of the brands that are due to take part at the first staging of this new show and veritable point of reference on the European trade fair calendar.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 35

showtalk GDS, 11-13 SEPTEMBER, DUSSELDORF EXHIBITION CENTRE The forthcoming edition of GDS, the premier shoe event, takes place in the Dusseldorf Exhibition Centre in September, when more than 35,000 trade visitors from around 79 countries and 1,500 exhibitors will be attending from all over the world.

Exhibitors will showcase their unique products, all of which are related to the footwear industry, such as fashion footwear, footwear accessories, leather and footwear machinery, men’s shoes, shoes, sports footwear, men’s footwear and footwear components.

Brands confirmed for the September event include Roberto Cavalli, Blauer, s.Oliver, Bugatti and M Missoni.

This new edition is expected to establish Knitwear Solutions as the event of reference in the sector. Knitwear Solutions is in full expansion, and, as of September, will be located in Hall 6. The aim, according to the organisers, is to give a new dimension to the area, and to strengthen the offer and visibility of the flatbed knit sector at the show.

OFF-PRICE, LONDON OLYMPIA, 22-23 SEPTEMBER, 2013 The Off-Price Show autumn edition returns to London Olympia from 22-23 September, following the success of spring edition.

The UK’s leading fashion stock event, which is renowned in the industry for bringing together buyers and sellers of discounted lines of clothing, footwear and accessories, is continuing to deliver results for buyers on many levels.

Thousands of buyers are set to gather under one roof, over just two days, to source new suppliers, inspect ranges and negotiate deals with leading UK and European suppliers. Ranges on offer at this unique stock event have included top designer brands such as Armani, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, as well as a host of premium brands, including Superdry, Abercrombie & Fitch, Fred Perry, Hollister, Tommy Hilfiger and Diesel.

Sportswear buyers will find an abundance of choice with a wide variety of collections by Nike, Reebok, Adidas and Converse, while goods from all the famous high-street stores will also be on display with the big players exhibiting up to 500 lines of ladieswear, menswear and childrenwear.

The footwear section of the show will be expanded for September, encompassing a broader selection including fashion footwear, sports & leisure, occasion and comfort wear. Fashion accessories lines to enhance or complete buyers’ ranges with also be available, with collections of scarves, gloves, costume jewellery, bags and leather goods to suit all tastes and budgets.

PREMIÈRE VISION, PARIS, 17-19 SEPTEMBER, 2013 Almost 800 exhibitors have confirmed their attendance at forthcoming edition of Première Vision, which will take place from 17-19 September at the Parc d’Expositions de Paris Nord-Villepinte.

Next month’s show will be presenting the third edition of Knitwear Solutions - a platform dedicated to creative flatbed knits. Established in September 2012, this area has, in only two seasons, made its mark at the world’s premier fabric show.

Première Vision is designed to provide concrete solutions for designers, product heads and buyers specialising in flatbed knits. It also offers real answers to the current needs at brands, whose collections have been steadily growing over the years. Today, flatbed knits make up 20 – 40 per cent of the product offer in ready-to-wear brands.

36 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

FASHION SVP, LONDON, 22–24 SEPTEMBER, 2013

DUBLIN SHOE & BAG FAIR, 29 SEPTEMBER – 1 OCTOBER, 2013 The Dublin Shoe & Bag Show will take place from Sunday 29 September to Tuesday 1 October 2013, at The Camden Court Hotel in Dublin 2.

Organised by Johnny Woolfson, the show – which runs from 9am to 6pm on 29 and 30 September, and from 9am to 4 pm on 1 October will see a diverse range of brands exhibiting.

Labels such as Hogl, Vidorreta Espadrilles, Mikaela, Roberto Botella, Vanilla Moon and Hispanitas will be joined by the likes of Jose Sainz, Vitti Love, Claudia Canova, Wonders, Paco Milan and Migato. Additional brands will be added to the mix before the show kicks off in late September.

Fashion SVP, the event specialising in fashion sourcing in the ‘Euromed’ area, opens its doors to its third edition at Olympia, London on 22 September, amid new developments and alliances.

The event responds to increased demand for flexibility in the production process and the need for reliable, high quality, fast-turnaround operations, which have encouraged British brands and retailers to look again closely at near-shore manufacturing. Under guidance from the event’s Advisory Group, comprising of leading UK retailers and brands including Marks & Spencer, River Island, New Look, M&Co, Debenhams and Musto, the organisers of Fashion SVP are presenting a carefully selected showcase of over 70 producers from 15 different.

The event’s popular sourcing seminars have been expanded for 2013, including a two-tier programme addressing a range of vital sourcing topics for both senior and middle managers involved in the sourcing process.

A further exciting addition to the event is the inclusion of Future Fabric Expo presented by The Sustainable Angle, which will offer buyers the opportunity to view fabrics from over 30 mills displaying innovations in sustainable fabrics with a lower environmental impact.

Fashion Stock Inspirations 22nd-23rd September 2013, London, Olympia For all your fashion stock requirements: Ladies’, men’s and childrenswear lines Footwear and fashion accessories Designer wear Quality imports & own-label

Selected lines at up to 70% off normal wholesale prices.

Sportswear casualwear streetwear & denim formal, occasion & evening wear outdoor wear workwear

rrent Season * * Past Season * Cu rs Large orders * * Small orde *

TRADE Register now for FREE entry at www.offpriceshow.co.uk futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in irelandONLY 37

footwear trends

Best Foot Forward From flats and architectural shoes to sportswear-inspired designs and strappy sandals, footwear for SS14 is characterised by its diversity. Our fashion sleuths have sifted through the catwalk collections, though, to bring you the 15 hottest trends for the season.

Metallic Shoes

Bebe

Alexander McQueen

One of the hottest footwear trends of the new season is metallic shoes. Flashy metallic shoes were everywhere during the Fashion Week. While most of the designers opted for silver and gold heeled sandals and pumps, Prada chose to make a statement by matching the towering wedges with metallic socks. If the shoes weren’t metallic, at least the heel was. The Moschino shoes were decorated with metallic leaf plates and crystals, while Viktor & Rolf opted for textured material. Metallic shoes were also spotted at Manish Arora, Fendi, Balmain, Etro, Emporio Armani and others’ fashion shows.

Seibel

Jana

Giuseppe Zanotti

Ecco

Buckles Fly London

Tamaris Romika

Architectural Shoes Geometric vibes play an important role in the new footwear collections. Not only did a host of designers opt for geometric prints and cuts, but also they spiced up their shoe collections with this eye-catching trend.

Fendi

38 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

Buckle up for SS14 as the buckle trend continues apace. Many a designer showcased the look on their catwalk shows, including Kate Spade, Belstaff and Katie Gallagher.

Cinderella

Transparent Shoes Seeing (through) is believing for SS14. Many collections were teaming with transparent shoes or ones featuring some transparent details, such as heels, straps and the like.

Steve Madden

News

Myntra

Printed Shoes Prints are everywhere for SS14 - on clothing pieces, bags and, of course, shoes.

Floral prints, checks, polka dots, geometric patterns, pixels and other motifs decorate the shoes in some of the most fashionforward collections.

Shoe Republic

Kootation

Christian Louboutin

Reptile Skin Shoes

Roger Vivier

Fly London

Gerry Weber Gerry Weber

Strappy Boots

Whether faux or genuine, animal skin shoes are tried-and-texted classics that are always desirable. Like almost any season, the forthcoming SS14 will see reptile skin shoes dominate. For inspiration, look to Gucci, Derek Lam, Thierry Mugler, and, of course, Roberto Cavalli. It’s a look that can be all-embracing or more discrete – some designer have opted for some small details in reptile skin, such as straps.

Alexander Wang

Strappy Boots

For the fashion-conscious customer who wants to stand out in the crowd, the strappy boots trend should tick all the boxes.

L’Wren Scott

Aldo Mazar

Mishy Boo

Topshop

Colour-Blocked Shoes Amidst versatile black, white, brown and earthy toned shoes, the upcoming warm season brings lots of cheerful colours, too. The neon shoe trend and color-blocked shoes are still on-trends for SS14. Whether it’s orange, yellow, green, purple, cerise, electric blue, or purple…. any color will work. Be bold, be brave, be colourful!

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 39

footwear trends

Masculine Shoes

Masculine Shoes From boyfriend jeans and blazers to grandfather collars, borrowing from boys has been a popular trends for several seasons. Men’s style shoes are set to prove a hot trend for SS14 season, too.

Duo

Gabor

Donald & Lisa Signature

Gerry Weber

Sporty Shoes

Dimmi

Casbia for Edmundo Castillo

Jana

It’s hard to deny that sporty shoes are often the most comfortable ones. A number of designers and labels, including DKNY and Y-3, are also of this opinion, since they have revived the sporty shoe trend for the forthcoming SS season.

Ecco Romika Sam Edelman

Romika Seibel

Studded Shoes Studs, rhinestones, chains and other metallic details are due to have their fashion moment in SS14. Such details adorn the shoes of designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg, Pucci and Viktor & Rolf.

Strappy Sandals No summer is complete without strappy sandals – and 2014 is no different . Whether high heeled or flat, strappy sandals are set to reign supreme for the season. For inspiration, look to Alice + Olivia, Donna Karan and numerous others.

Emilio Pucci Hobson Fly London

All Rounder

Kurt Geiger

40 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

News

Maiyet

Gerry Weber

Statement-Making Heels

Eye catching heels

A strong emphasis has been placed on heels for SS14. Most of the heeled shoes feature eye-catching heels in neon and other vibrant hues, while some adventurous designers also turned the heels into real masterpieces by changing their form or adding some outstanding textures to them.

Gucci

Pierre Hardy

Tabitha Simmons Maiyet

Chunky Heels Heavy shoes are tipped as another trend in SS14 footwear. For proof, look no further than the catwalk shoes of Balenciaga, Etro and Bottega Veneta to name but a few.

Ecco

Caprice

Flats

Gerry Weber

As natural as it may sound, flats are another style due their moment in the fashion sun for SS14. A pleasing fusion of form and function, they’re a wear-anywhere style that are set to gather momentum as the temperatures pick up.

Primigi

Deerskin

Seibel

Ecco

Lolablue Caprice Duo

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 41

promotion

NEW DUBLIN SHOWROOM FOR AUBREY WOOLFSON Lola Blue

Aubrey Woolfson Footwear Agencies has relocated to a new contemporary showroom in Dublin.

Menbur

Located at Unit 17, Northern Cross Business Park in Dublin 11, the sleek space has proved particularly popular with clients, according to Aubrey Woolfson, who mentions how its convenience to Dublin Airport and proximity to the M50 have been greatly appreciated.

Pixie

The showroom - which is shared by Aubrey, David and Zara Woolfson, and managed by Doreen Crowe, who has been with the company for 20 years - has been fitted out in a contemporary style and is currently home to the SS14 collections from a host of leading brands, including Menbur, Pitillos, Lola Blue, Victoria Delef, Refresh, Mister Shoes, Desigual and Pixie. Zara also looks after the UK for Menbur and Pitillos brands.

Shoes in the various brands run the gamut of styles, from cutting-edge contempory and comfort to high-fashion and elegant. Prices are similarly diverse, providing numerous options at almost every price point.

Pitillos

Menbur

Pixie

Lola Blue

Menbur

Desigual Young Footwear from Spain

Menbur

Pixie

42 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

Victoria Delaf

Victoria Delaf

Lola Blue

Menbur

An amazing range of ladies footwear now on view for S/S2014

MENBUR

Visit us at our NEW Dublin showrooms at 17 Northern Cross Business Park, Dublin 11. tel 01 834 7481 Aubrey Woolfson 00 353 87 2340349

fax 01 834 7805 David Woolfson 00 353 87 2162935

women’s collections

Collection Reports DAISY MAY From the Daisy May SS14 collection, which is now showing at Gerard Burke Agencies and at Fashion Coming Together at Fashion City, 25-27 August.

DARLING The new SS 2014 collection for Darling is currently on view with its new distributors, Gerard Burke Agencies, at No. 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Road in Ballymount, Dublin 24.

The range comprises a boutique collection of well-priced dresses, separates, coordinates and accessories in an eye-catching palette of seasonal hues.

Plains, prints, laces and pearls are to the fore in the new collection of dresses, tunics and coordinates, which is complemented by a selection of bags.

ELLA BOO From the Ella Boo SS14 collection, which is now showing at Gerard Burke Agencies and at Fashion Coming Together at Fashion City, 25-27 August.

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Spring/Summer 2014 showing from now at our Dublin Showroom: Godske Jackets, Jorli, Fransdsen, Godske, Habella, Q’Neel Fashion Coming Together, Fashion City, August 25th-26th

Contact Niall Scanlan Agencies 5 Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24.

Tel: +353 1 429 5042 Fax: +353 1 429 5043 Email: amc@godske.com

Web: www.godske.com

women’s collections

LERROS Showing at Unit 35, Fashion City, the new Lerros collection has been designed to appeal to the woman that is no longer interested in young fashion but in fashion that makes her feel younger.

With 12 collection per year, the lifestyle brand can react quickly to the current fashion trends. Its SS14 range impresses with its diversity, offering a wealth of choice in contemporary casualwear. Colours are seasonal and on-trend, making for a lively collection that fuses form and function.

Lerros also offers a NOS system which gives retailers the opportunity to increase sales and profits through the permanent availability in the required sizes, thereby reducing the storage risk and money tied up in capital.

NAAS C From the Naas C SS14 collection, which is now showing at Gerard Burke Agencies and at Fashion Coming Together at Fashion City, 25-27 August.

PAUSE CAFÉ Conjuring up images of exotic destinations, the SS14 collection is awash with bold colours such as fuchsia, bright orange, coral, apricot, turquoise, yellow and red, which are contrasted with white and cocoa.

The new range plays with fabrics by superimposing fluid and transparent mesh knits to create opaqueness. The main trend of summer tweeds both mottled and plant-like is played for jackets, short or long, both chic and sporty. Dresses remain the stars of the collection, however, with or without sleeves, in a variety of lengths with either a chic or a bohemian feel.

46 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

best of irish

Libra

Magee

100% IRISH When it comes to the Irish, it is widely accepted that creativity is in the blood - from the storytelling druids of old to contemporary musicians and award-winning actors, the nation is positively brimming with talent. It’s no surprise, then, that Ireland is home to a number of fashion designers, both established and up-and-coming.

Jack Murphy

Magee

Stellar names such as Louise Kennedy, Orla Kiely, Lainey Keogh, Paul Costelloe, milliner Philip Treacy and our adopted son, John Rocha are renowned the world over, but there’s a new generation of Irish talent fast on their heels.

Jack Murphy

Libra

Jack Murphy

Libra

Jack Murphy Magee Magee

Libra

Jack Murphy

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 47

women’s collections

ROBELL Available through Niall Scanlan Agencies at Fashion City, Danish trouser specialist Robell catches the eye for SS14 with a collection of beautiful designs that are cut to the waist for real women yet cut stylishly to ensure a flattering profile. Trousers are available in a variety of length, as well as in capri and high fashion ankle-length designs.

New for the season is a summer stretch fabric with a slim leg, which is available in black, white and hibiscus pink. Fashion highlights, meanwhile, are provided by high fashion flower and animal prints and jungle and ornamental design.

A diverse palette sees pastels, such as baby blue, rose, peppermint green and yellow, to the fore, as well as strong colours, including pink, royal blue, golf green, red and papaya. Taupe, off-white, beige, navy and white are also prominent.

Body shaped silhouettes are fashionable with a choice in slim fitting styles and a selection of trouser lengths - 7/8 lengths; capris and high fashion ankle length trousers.

spring summer 14

Gerard Burke, GB Agencies 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Road, Dublin 24. | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 48 futura t: +353 1 429 5709/429 5553 f: +353 1 429 5554 m: +353 87 797 5555 e: gerard@gbagencies.ie

VILA JOY Everyday fashion for contemporary women, the SS14 collection reveals a strong focus on wearability. Strong, bold prints and colours make a for an appealing range that is aimed at the modern woman looking for a complete outfit or some special pieces to spice up her wardrobe.

spring summer 14

Gerard Burke, GB Agencies 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Rd, Dublin 24. t: +353 1 429 5709/429 5553 f: +353 1 429 5554 m: +353 87 797 5555 e: gerard@gbagencies.ie futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 49

YAYA Inspired by overseas travel, the SS14 collection is bursting with inspirational details from America and Morocco. Three distinct themes – On The Prairie, Road Trip and Desert Rose – incorporate a wealth of detail, assorted fabrics, waffle yarn, ethnic prints, embroidery, bleached- and insidedyed denim.

Colours are multifarious but include a focus on dusty pinks for an ultra-feminine look. Detailing, meanwhile, is key and appears in the form of prints of feathers on dresses and tops, beads, sequins, space dye knits and zig-zag prints in tops, jumpsuits and trousers.

Gerard Burke, GB Agencies 7 Fashion City, Upper Ballymount Rd, Dublin 24. t: +353 1 429 5709/429 5553 f: +353 1 429 5554 m: +353 87 797 5555 e: gerard@gbagencies.ie 50 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

shopcall

Greenes Shoes

LOCATION Positioned in the popular Crescent Shopping Centre in the heart of Limerick city, Greenes – which has additional branches in Galway, Letterkenny and Falcarragh, Co Donegal boasts a central location that enjoys a healthy level of footfall. A number of other footwear retailers, including Barretts, Kellys, Skechers and Shaws, ensure that competition for customers’ trade is particularly keen.

STOCK A large selection of footwear brands makes an excellent first impression. Customers can a select from a number of men’s and women’s shoe styles in collections such as ECCO, Gabor, FitFlop, Converse, Vans, Ironfist, Irregular Choice, Tommy Bowe and, a recent addition, Amy Huberman.

In addition to the adult shoes, there’s also a small selection of children’s Converse and Vans trainers, as well as a range of elegant handbags to complement the shop’s collection of dressy shoes.

DISPLAY Different means of display are used throughout the store, making for a vibrant look that catches the eye. Glass shelving is the predominant display type for ladies’ shoes, while

white wood shelving provides an attractive alternative for men’s shoes. A slat wall at the back of the shop, meanwhile, has a vibrant pink backdrop and features designs from brands such as FitFlop, Converse and Vans.

Elsewhere, a central white table displays a selection of colourful high-heeled shoes, some of which are mounted on transparent blocks.

DÉCOR Vibrant, warm and welcoming, Greenes’ décor is particularly attractive, inviting the passer-by to pop in and peruse the offering. Pale wooden floorboards provide a clean, contemporary surface underfoot while suspended lighting with adjustable spotlights ensures a wealth of task lighting.

Grey may seem an unusual choice of wall colour but works particularly well within the setting and is enlivened by white panelling and bold blocks of colour, such as magenta, purple and pink, towards the rear.

Further injections of colour are provided by the occasional blue panel, as well as by blue and purple seating and a magenta-coloured counter.

CLIENTELE A Saturday morning visit found the shop in full swing with a surprisingly large number of

Heading to the mid-west, our mystery shopper pays an unscheduled visit to Greenes Shoes, a popular footwear retailer that has been trading in the city since 2001.

customers, the majority of whom were female and ranging in age from mid-twenties to midto late-sixties.

Business was particularly brisk and at least two three sales were completed during our visit. Additional sales were likely to follow if the satisfied smiles of three customers trying on designs by FitFlop, Converse and Amy Huberman respectively were anything to go by.

STAFF A number of staff manning the shop floor ensured that customers’ queries and requests were quickly seen to. One sales staff we questioned as to the availability of a particular style of FitFlop shoes was a wonderful ambassador for Greenes, proving to be helpful, friendly and very well-informed, while another advised us that shoes could be purchased online at greenesshoes.com

OVERALL A very impressive shopping experience, Greenes delivers on all counts: an excellent selection, keenly priced stock, a smart décor and pleasant sales staff. Congratulations to all involved!

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 51

Footwear collections

Collection Reports ALLROUNDER High on impact, the new collection boasts a number of attractive styles, including one of the lightest sandals in the world, which is the result of a sophisticated outsole design and the use of phylon and rubber combinations.

The range also features a new Jogger group for women. Sneakers in this line have a clean, refined and feminine look and, thanks to the mix of phylon and rubber, the bi-colour outsole is very light and flexible. The various models make great use of brushed leather and a mix of washed nylon and metallic, while all styles have high-quality leather linings.

CAPRICE Feather-light materials, fresh colours, fashionable features and exceptional ‘walking on air’ comfort characterise the new SS14 collection. Each model in the range is given its own look via a combination of materials, colours and fashionable appliqué, such as delicate ribbons, playful floral patterns, elegant buckles and precious stones.

Inspired by the sun’s changing colours, the palette ranges from easy and delicate tones to vigorous and expressively strong.

The spectrum encompasses black and white, as well as delicate colours such as light taupe, soft blue, and light green.

Strong accents are boosted via red, green, yellow and blue, while elegant shades such as cognac, taupe and walnut complete the look.

StandOut FROM THE FLOCK! ious orporate a luxur lining and stralia’ boots inc ‘Sheep Feet Au a 100% Australian wool inner designs d th suede outer wi anded EVA sole, our registere hing and br catc e ey an ing at exclusive logo and vibrant, cre ue selling point that iq are chic, bright oduct with a un pr ing rn tu ng head crowd. esents everythi e th m fro t ou Our brand repr k stands ac tb ou e to th from the beach, in between. re and everywhe

WITH

Sheep

eet TS F FOOT PRIN

Visit www.sheepfeet.co.uk or contact sales@sheepfeet.com.au to stock Sheep Feet Australia 52 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

SHOE.COM GMBH & CO. KG

MEMBER OF WORTMANN-GROUP David O’Mahony phone: +353 (0)872 66 51 74 david.omahony@soliver-shoes.com www.soliver-shoes.com 13th - 16th August - Dublin 19th - 20th August - Limerick 21st - 22nd August - Galway 27th - 28th August - Sligo 29th August - Coleraine 2nd - 3rd August - Waterford GDS 11th - 13th SEPTEMBER 2013 DÜSSELDORF (Germany) GDS, HALL 3, NO. 3B65

SHOES

Footwear collections

deerskin

ECCO A diverse collection that features numerous styles and three trending themes – the elegant Classic BEAT, the nostalgic yet modern Exposed and the statement-making Eye Candy – as well as the new Dress Comfort collection, which expands the brand’s fashion-savvy range to include styles with the season’s coveted smooth lines and rounded toes.

Fashion highlights include Touch 50, a sophisticated, edgy pump; RIVAS 75 wedges, which transform a classic shape through meticulous design and unexpected colour; and Osan, an ultra-feminine flat in a man’s shoe shape.

Key colours for the range include navy blue, classic black, deep reds, camels, and various shades of browns, yellows, corals and candy hues.

FLY LONDON Fashionable and innovative, shoes for SS14 are bold in design yet high on comfort and quality.

The new season’s footwear runs the gamut of styles and features a palette that is high on impact, making for a collection that impresses on all levels.

In addition to its footwear collection, the award-winning brand has enlarged its accessories line of bags, belts and bracelets, and presented its own sunglasses collection.

54 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

News JANA Combining comfort, quality and fashion – from sandals to summer ankle boots – Jana offers fashionable models in wide and extra-wide shoes at affordable prices.

Traditionally, all models pay special attention to the correct fit and comfort, supported by clever elastic inserts and removable insoles in many low shoe models. The core of the collection comprises medium heel lifts of between 25mm-45 mm.

Sporty shoes impress with their wide range of colours, while fashionable details provide a stylish finish. In terms of colours, white and various shades of nude are coming into greater focus, while red and blue shoes continue to play a major role and are supplemented by the colour curry.

Additional highlights include metallic-effect shoes, light summer ankle boots, fashionable shoes with fine studs and, in the eco-friendly Jana Natural Collection, vegetable-tanned leather models.

LEGERO Unveiled at the recent edition of Moda, the SS14 collection features a diverse range of footwear.

Highlights in the range include the new GORE-TEX® Surround models, which boast exceptionally breathability while offering permanent waterproof properties; and the Tino and Alba range of sporty sneakers which are set to sprint into a new high summer season.

Agent Marcus Baker will be showing the new collection at Unit 24 (room 5), Fashion City from 2-6 September, 2013.

Cool Shoes – Cool Feet!

Children want to explore the world around them whatever the weather.

Superfit GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ children‘s shoes pave the way for a carefree childhood. Exceptionally breathable and permanently waterproof – that adds up to cooling 360° climate comfort! The tangible added value of the Superfit innovation is provided by GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ Product Technology. The new GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ styles for SS14 are the ultimate summer shoes for children.

Big responsibility for your feet.

Footwear ShowS & StockroomS

moDa - NEC Birmingham 11th - 13th August 2013 stand S26 FaShIoN cItY, DUBLIN - Unit 24, Room 5, 4th - 6th September 2013 ISra - The Glenroyal Hotel, Maynooth 8th & 9th September 2013 mIcam - Milan 15th - 18th September 2013.

LEGeRO UK South & Ireland: Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. Tel. +44/(0) 7775-99 55 47 marcus.baker@legero.at

MODA – S26

LEGeRO UK North & Scotland Terry McIntosh Tel. +44/(0) 7957-83 43 48 terry.mcintosh@legero.at Associate Member 2013

* The result is based on the analysis of 342 returned evaluation forms with the stipulated rating scale: good, average and bad.

futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 55

Footwear collections

MARCO TOZZI Diverse in style and appeal, the SS14 collection features a host of casual summer boot and includes everything from athletic TR soles to trendy 60mm heels. Featured here are perforations, shoelace elements and grommet appliques. Styles such as super soft moccasins, boat shoes and barefoot shoes, which offer exceptional wearing comfort without lining and fit like a glove, are also offered.

The athletic collection reflects the season’s hues and incorporates various combinations of colour and metallic. As ever, the insoles are flexible and comfortable. Elsewhere, classic loafers, pumps and ballerinas have been designed anew. New laser cuts, stitching and accessory details like flowers and stitching give this product group a fresh, new look.

MEPHISTO Mephisto put the emphasis back into comfort with a vibrant collection of sandals and summer shoes for SS14.

Styles are multifarious yet comfort is a constant throughout the range. All models boast soft, round upper leathers, while linings are mostly in calfskins. Outsoles, meanwhile, are predominantly in rubber and are ultra-durable, offering excellent comfort. Construction is also of notable quality: soft insoles, padding around the seams and the addition of different cushion forms under the foot make for the highest levels of comfort.

www.legero.at

Super Summer Cinema: Naturally with Surround!

MO

DA

–R

25

The sun is beating down, heat shimmers from the asphalt – but the new, cool LEGeRO GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ shoes keep you as cool as a cucumber. Exceptionally breathable and permanently waterproof – that adds up to cooling 360° climate comfort! The tangible added value of the LEGeRO innovation is provided by GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ Product Technology.

As sporty sneakers, the GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ versions of TINO + ALBA are all set to sprint easily into a new high summer season.

Footwear Shows & Stockrooms

My feet’s favourite shoes.

MODA - NEC Birmingham 11th - 13th August 2013 stand R25 FASHION CITY, DUBLIN Unit 24, Room 5, 4th - 6th September 2013 ISRA - The Glenroyal Hotel, Maynooth 8th & 9th September 2013 MICAM - Milan, 15th - 18th September 2013.

Ireland Sales Representative: Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. Tel. +44/(0) 7775-99 55 47 marcus.baker@legero.at

Associate Member 2013

56 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

COMING SOON

FIT FOR KIDS

BIG BIKE GIVEAWAY

Stockrooms and presentations all over Ireland please contact me for an appointment, Robert Cambridge Mob 00447740666109 | Email robert.cambridge@btinternet.com www.petasil.com | find us on facebook at Petasil Kids Shoes

Footwear collections

MEPHISTO Mephisto put the emphasis back into comfort with a vibrant collection of sandals and summer shoes for SS14.

Styles are multifarious yet comfort is a constant throughout the range. All models boast soft, round upper leathers, while linings are mostly in calfskins. Outsoles, meanwhile, are predominantly in rubber and are ultra-durable, offering excellent comfort. Construction is also of notable quality: soft insoles, padding around the seams and the addition of different cushion forms under the foot make for the highest levels of comfort.

PETASIL Vibrant colours and stylish, fashion-forward designs that combine form and function make for a funky footwear collection that will prove popular with adults and kids alike.

A host of styles from the Portuguese brand impresses and includes Bowie, a fashionable pump in kooky colours; Jake, a unisex sandal which is available in assorted colours and features a tractor track sole and Velcro adjustable fixings; and Leonor, a feminine summer sandal with appliquéd flower detail.

SHEEPFEET An independent brand based in Melbourne, Australia, Sheepfeet designs and produces fashionable, high-quality adult and children’s footwear. By combining innovative design with quality materials, the brand strives to create a new and exciting twist to the classic and timeless sheep skin boot.

Available in Ireland through agents Tony O’Shaughnessy and Colm Sandford, Sheepfeet footwear incorporates a luxurious suede outer with a 100% Australian wool inner lining and exclusive logo branded EVA sole. The respective designs are chic, bright and vibrant, creating an eye-catching product with a unique selling point that stands out from the crowd.

Key styles include the best-selling classic Chestnut with Outback Brown sole; the new Fluro Sole designs; and the ‘Uluru Orange’ sole with Chestnut Upper.

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News

SUPERFIT Three new product groups – Cooly, Tensy and Swagy – have been added to the brand’s original Surround style from previous collections, resulting in a total offer of 55 shoes from 14 style variations for SS14.

Superfit GORE-TEX® SURROUND™ children‘s shoes remain a key style, however. Exceptionally breathable and permanently waterproof, the various models in the range are the ultimate summer shoes for children.

Fresh from a successful showing at the recent Moda show, agent Marcus Baker will be showing the new Superfit collection at Unit 24 (room 5), Fashion City from 2-6 September, 2013.

TAMARIS Rich in variety, airy and light, the new SS14 collection offers a wide range of looks for every moment.

Low heels and young, flat soles are a highlight in the collection, appearing in metallic materials and patent leather, giving a glamorous and sexy look. Colours are slightly subdued: white is often used in combination with cognac shades. Diamante decorations, edges stones and braids make these models real ornaments for the feet.

Clever use of ethnic, flower, animal and graphical prints ensure a wealth of detail in a number of models, while the targeted use of fringes and powdery metallic adds a carefree casualness to fashionable ‘young’ shoes such as ballerinas, moccasin styles, sandals with relatively low heels, and thick shell soles that give this fashion theme a certain level of street chic.

Hailing from California in 1966, K-Swiss established itself as a leading lifestyle footwear company, with a strong court heritage. The company was founded by Art and Ernest Brunner who, inspired by their love of playing tennis, developed “the Classic”, the first all-leather American tennis shoe, which became a style staple both on and off the court. The Brunners’ pioneering spirit, innovation, craftsmanship and performance credentials form the bedrock of the company today.

With a renewed focus on the lifestyle category from 2013 onwards, and a new emerging youth audience, Adcourt ’72 SO

K-Swiss

The ADCOurT LA is inner city style meets court heritage. Inspired by the club houses in the hills but worn on the streets of LA, the Adcourt LA is available in lows, mids and a premium edition. The season’s colours include bright athletic pops such as brilliant blue, strong red and vibrant green.

Based on the K-Swiss original ‘Classic High’ from 1972, the ADCOurT ’72 has a clean and fresh profile.

This season, K-Swiss has introduced the new stitched on stripes which further highlight the 5-stripe branding. The ADCOurT ’72 SO is available in a low, mid strap, and a premium edition. The lows feature suede, Adcourt LA

K-Swiss succeeds to fuse the past with the present to create a heritage court brand but with a contemporary approach.

white tones and retro detailing, creating a court shoe classic, while the mid strap and remium styles provide grey and brown tones, resulting in a retro look and feel.

NEW DESIGNS PAY HOMAGE TO THE K-SWISS CLASSIC

The TrANCAS is a new addition to the K-Swiss family in 2014. Born at the country club in Trancas near Malibu, this contemporary court shoe featuring a premium cup sole and signature D rings, has been resurrected as a style staple off the court.The Si-18 Rannell 2 is another iconic retro K-Swiss style re-mastered for 2014. Inspired by the running track and updated with new materials, while the silhouette has been stream-

For Spring / Summer 2014, K-Swiss serves up a collection that successfully plays on its rich tennis heritage and California roots. Vintage K-Swiss styles are revisited in a contemporary way with nods to the K-Swiss design heritage on and off the court.

lined for extra comfort. The SI-18 rANNELL 2 comes in dark vintage reds, charcoal and indigo with a mix of leather and nylon uppers.

K-Swiss is laced in tennis heritage and for 2014 will continue to tell the ‘K-Swiss story’, fusing the brand’s rich sports legacy with a renewed twist.

STrONG SALES FOCuS K-Swiss has appointed a team of four experienced lifestyle sales agents with showrooms in Dublin, London, Manchester and Exeter to target quality independents.

Trancas

The Irish operation is headed by Cormac Jones of CJ Agencies, which is based at Unit 37, Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24.

“K-Swiss are delighted to have Cormac on board,” says Richard Morris, UK & Eire Sales Manager. “He has numerous years’ experience in the sports and fashion industry representing many leading global brands”.

C J Agencies, Fashion City, unit 37, First Floor , Ballymount road upper, Dublin 24, Ireland.

T: +353 (0) 1 4295948 F: +353 (0) 1 4295948 M: +353 (0) 87 9978853 cormacjonesagencies@gmail.com futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland 59

Interview

HIS DARK MARTERIALS based upon various sources, including history, film, sexuality, paganism and the occult. Expect a range of tactile fabrics from natural to synthetic, from heavy leathers, snakeskins and furs to unconventional materials such as videotape, human hair and beetle wings.

His designs may be dark and macabre, but the future looks bright for NCAD student David O’Malley, who shares his passion and vision in an interview with Futura.

Futura: Congratulations on some very impressive work.

You’ve obviously got a passion for textiles.

DO’M: Absolutely. Textiles is about the hidden and expressive side of fashion. Textile offers life to the garments, in which we can create, define and manipulate our personalities.

I situate my designs alongside the avante garde of fashion designers who create narratives, personalities with clothing they create. In working with these sources, my work blossoms into a collection that has an almost dark unsettling undertone.

Futura: Your showpiece for the show is certainly very unique with a dark edge. What draws you to explore this darker side of your creativity?

DO’M: The showpiece will be the opening outfit. I wanted to bring an emphasis to the head by creating a silhouette that draws the viewer in. The headpiece worn by the model is a reflection of who they are, what they portray - whether obvious or sometime more subliminal.

My aim is for the showpiece to take the viewer from their ordinary everyday existence into a world of glamour, danger and intrigue to create a mood: a fantasy that can only be achieved by the escapism emphasised in the garments.

Futura: Tell us a little about what you’ve planned for the NCAD Fashion Show?

Futura: How did you come to work with textiles?

DO’M: As a textile designer, I find I can exploit fabrics by manipulation techniques such as embellishing, burning, fusing and even creating the fabric itself.

DO’M: Originally I intended to go down the road of vis com [visual communication] but when I was in my first year of NCAD, that changed from fashion and, then again, to textiles in second year.

My collection focuses on headpieces and body adornment. It comprises six headpieces following a narrative

60 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

I found the creative outcome and possibilities in different areas very appealing with routs of print, weave and

embroidery leading to areas of fashion, fine art, interiors and craft. With support and guidance from my tutors every step of the way, it’s a career choice I’m extremely happy with.

Futura: Who is your creative inspiration?

DO’M: People before my time but whom I have total respect for, such as the late Izabella Blow, David Bowie, Grace Jones and [American actress and former fashion model] Tippi Hedren.

Futura: Where might we see your work in five years’ time?

DO’M: Unfortunately I don’t know what the future holds for me but I like to imagine doing what I love and sharing creativity, sharing a vision.

Futura: Have you any tips you could pass on to aspiring NCAD students?

DO’M: If you’re not in textiles yet, do textiles!

If you have a vision or an expression, use it. Drive yourself as much as you can to show people your potential. Also, alongside the serious stuff, have fun, too. Enjoy college life – you only have four years!

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word from the buyers

Buyers’ Shout Are you optimistic for the SS14 season?

Are you going to be cautious when buying?

Eamonn Byrne Beverly Jones, Artane, Dublin 5

Martin McClhinney McElhinney’s, Ballybofey, Donegal

Karen Howared Seagreen, Monkstown, Co. Dublin

Economic indicators don’t show any growth, and, even if the government was to introduce new policies or programmes to accelerate business tomorrow, I don’t believe they would filter down until three to five years. Yes, there is domestic spending, but people have to prioritise; if they’re not paying bills, they’re saving for a rainy day.

In business, it is imperative you approach every season positively, albeit with realistic expectations. As part of our digital progression, we will focus on our online offering at mcelhinneys.com, which forms a huge part of our seasonal plans.

Yes, we’re optimistic; we feel like that corner has been turned.

Most definitely. Only today, we went through our stock with a fine toothcomb and contacted our suppliers, decreasing our orders in line with decreasing demand.

We will be trying to strike the correct balance between caution and sourcing new and interesting product that our customer expects from us.

Yes. It’s always going to be a balancing act: the right brands and the right amount.

They have all done equally bad for us, apart from German trousers, Steilmann. 1000s are being sold across the country, weekly. But I believe, what could eventually happen is, duplicators will cotton on, and, as a result, dilute their sales.

Lifestyle brands such as Ralph Lauren, Gant and McGregor have again performed very strongly for us. New contemporary brands, Native Youth and Criminal Damage, have had very successful first seasons with us.

Really cool, directional pieces that offer great value for money.

We’ve been diversifying over the year, reflecting the economic changes. For example, as well as exclusive, high-end stock, we now have stock with prices that are more accessible, such as t-shirts and blouses at around €100, and this has been a hugely successful move. Denim has always done brilliantly well for us, such as Victoria Beckham and J Brand; people are willing to spend that extra bit, confident that the items will last.

Are you looking to take on any new brands?

No, out of loyalty, we are going to stick to our suppliers, bypassing fairs and going to them directly.

We’re always looking for something new. There are lots of smaller brands doing really innovative things that we have our eye on. There may also be one or two larger international brands coming on board as well, if we can find the room!

Absolutely. We’re going to be stocking 2 Frame and AG Denims and are hugely confident. We’re also stocking, for the first time, the Diva label.

What, if any, trade fairs will you be attending?

They’re not on the agenda. If we’re in the vicinity, then we’ll pop in and browse. Five years ago, we would visit fairs in Paris, Germany, London, Birmingham and Holland.

What brands have done well for you?

62 futura | menswear in ireland | footwear in ireland

We will be attending Pitti Uomo in Florence and Bread & Butter in Berlin. There’s always plenty of inspiration on offer and we always come across something that grabs our attention.

We tend to go to designers and showrooms individually, which help solidify our relationships with them.

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