Futura, Menswear in Ireland and Footwear in Ireland February/March 2014 by Sky Publishing

February/MARCH 2014

www.futuramagazine.ie

INTERVIEW WITH FRANK LYMAN TRENDS FOR AW14 VERDICT ON THE CHRISTMAS SALES BRAND WATCH: THE LABELS TO LOOK OUT FOR THE GROWING IMPORTANCE OF SOCIAL MEDIA

N YDJ. EU NYDJ IREL AN D FASHI O N D EV ELOP M ENTS LTD. DUBL IN 003 53 1 4295100 I NFO @ N YDJ. EU

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contents February/March 2014 It may be cold, dark and wet but we’ve been hard at work to being you some cheer in the form of a feature-packed bumper issue of Futura for February. The 52-page issue covers not just ladies’ fashion but also men’s and, to a lesser extent, children’s. We’ve even packed in an extensive look at the latest footwear. Our focus, as with our January issue, is on the AW14 collection and, as such, we’ve scoured countless collections and catwalks to bring you the need-to know on the leading ranges, the hottest trends and the key pieces. We’re not here to simply preach, though; we’re happy to listen, too. To this effect, we’ve spoken to 12 independent retailers (six in menswear and six in ladieswear) across Ireland to find out their respective experiences of the recent Christmas sales. Their views and verdicts can be found on pages 26 and 50. Elsewhere, retailer Declan Mahon talks to us about his new dress hire store in Dublin (P.14), Frank Lyman reveals the thinking behind his eponymous fashion label (P.32) and Raymond Davern Jnr of Daverns of Cashel speaks to us about the Tipperary shop’s exciting evolution. With all this plus much, much more, we’re sure you’ll enjoy the read! See you again in March.

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Interview: Daverns of Cahsel

Interview: A Passion for Fashion

Footwear Trends for AW14

The Importance of Social Media

Christmas Sales: Views of Ladieswear Retailers 26 Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

Trends: The Must-Have Pieces for Ladieswear AW14 28 Let’s Be Perfectly Frank 32

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Brand Watch: Ladieswear 34

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The Style Files: Ladieswear AW14 35

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Brand Watch: Menswear 38

Patrick J. Codyre Alexander Fitzgerald sales & marketing manager: Avril Smith assistant editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue printing: Swift Print Solutions publishing director & managing editor: features editor:

Trends: The Must-Have Pieces for Menswear AW14 39

The Style Files: Menswear AW14 40 One Step Ahead: Footwear AW14 44

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Christmas Sales: Views of Menswear Retailers 50

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

news

NEWS GALLERY SEES NUMBERS RISE The latest edition of Gallery Monster at Copenhagen Fashion Week saw 11,615 visitors in attendance, an increase on the previous edition where 11,556 visitors were welcomed.

R-Wear is a 100% Irish-owned company, developed after recognising the need for more interesting and diverse range of goods for customers.

fashion houses and department stores were present. Over 500 exhibiting brands were present. Highlights included Urban Base, the newly created section, which was undeniably fresh and contemporary thanks to its fusion of the many sport and streetwear brands.

Top countries at this recent edition were Denmark (39%), Sweden (23%), Norway (10%), Germany (7%), the UK, the Netherlands and Finland (3%).

Bread and Butter founder, Karl-Heinz Müller, revealed that, “The halls were well-visited and the visitors’ length of stay… increased remarkably.”

World-renowned stores making orders at the event included Harvey Nichols, ASOS, Le Bon Marché, Urban Outfitters, House of Fraser and Selfridges.

“The feedback from all parties involved was extremely positive throughout,” he added.

SO LONG, JUSTIN RODGERS! Justin Rodgers, the man behind the successful Justin Rodgers Agencies Ltd, is taking time off from the fashion world to pursue some other ventures. Set up in Dublin in 1995, Mr Rodgers acted as agent for numerous national and international labels including Elton, Kaideen Knitwear and Bandolera. All at Futura wish him the very best for the future.

The range includes underwear, that come in a rainbow of bright colours, as well as t-shirts, Polo shirts, base layers, sweaters, gilets and coats, that boast a more muted colour palette including black, navy and grey. The Carlow-based company has also created an impressive collection of reading glasses and sunglasses. All garments come embroidered with the R-Wear logo and crest.

BREAD & BUTTER – A STRONG BERLINER

NEW IRISH WHOLESALER LAUNCHES MENSWEAR COLLECTION

Müller credits the success of the exhibition to the “fantastic brands, labels and designers as well as exceptional side events. “

CASAMODA WIN PRESTIGIOUS AWARD In a recent survey of the year 2013, the influential German trade magazine, Textilwirtschaft, awarded menswear brand Casamoda first prize for their range of casual shirts. The jury was made up of German buyers for department stores and retailers. A spokesperson for the label said that the company was “able to achieve these great results thanks to a wonderful team and their dedication to the company.” On top of the prestigious accolade, Casamoda also reported a strong increase in turnover.

R-Wear, Ireland’s latest wholesaler, has just launched its new quality collections, aimed at the men’s sport and casualwear market.

The 30th edition of Germany’s Bread & Butter trade show, which concluded on 16 January, proved a resounding success. It was reported that the majority of trade visitors came from the German-speaking world as well as other European countries. There was also strong representation from the US, Canada, Japan and South Korea. Nearly all of the big international

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

In season Stock Service Denims Dresses Separates Co-Ordinates Make an appointment to view the collection today.... Nicola Danagher 087 - 737 4875 Sharon Leane 047 - 82 111 email: info@rantandrave.ie www.rantandrave.ie

â&#x20AC;&#x153;On the stem of memory, imaginations blossomâ&#x20AC;? Patrick Kavanagh

news LATEST EDITION OF PREMIUM PROVES A HUGE SUCCESS The 23rd edition of Premium presented its best brand portfolio yet, presenting a line-up of 900 international labels and around 1,500 collections. New visitor records were set this season, exceeding all expectations. On the opening day, the highest number of first-day visitors was recorded. Overall, there was a 20% increase in attendance. Germany accounted for the majority of visitors at 28%, while the UK and Ireland made up 5% of those present.

is a full range of ladies’ hosiery, leggings and jewellery. The aim of Christopher Wren Clothing Company Ltd. is to source brands that meet the current market demand of retailers here in Ireland.

The event, which ran from 31 January to 3 February, posted a marked increase in attendance, this time registering just under 5,000 visitors from 16 countries. This is compared to 4,000 visitors for the same season last year.

Upstairs on the first floor, MacLeod Agencies has recently moved from its city centre showroom to Christopher Wren House, and bring a complementary range of fine labels to this building. Lennon Courtney

“It felt like it did in the ‘80s. All the stands were full and the atmosphere was akin to a Gold Rush,” revealed German jewellery designer, Gabriele Frantzen. Visitors also praised the new, cleaner structure of the halls and entry area, while the service personnel was said to have been exceptional.

NEW BRANDS AT CHRISTOPHER WREN HOUSE FOR A/W Situated at no 43 Fashion City, Christopher Wren House has a selection of over 15 brands on view for the new A/W season. Some of the collections offer a full stock service while others are niche market brands and forward-order collections.

Macleod Agencies represents international fashion designers with a passion for excellence. Creating partnerships between designers and buyers who have a similar vision for a brand is what they do best. Sourcing new products for the market and bringing innovative design to clients is key. On view this season are Set, Hoss Intropia, Ottod’Ame, Lennon Courtney and Twisted Muse.

PETER CANNING, RIP News reaches us of the sad death of Peter Canning, a much-respected draper and proprietor of Peter Canning Menswear of Emmet Street in Trim, Co. Meath.

A selection of new, exciting labels are also on view for this new season and include Satia and T-Studio Therapy, both of which are forwardorder brands. Under Christopher Wren Clothing Company Ltd. on the ground floor are a number of brands, including Pause Café, Eroke, Missing Johnny and Savage Couture, as well as new additions this season such as Satia, T-Studio Therapy and Ana Sousa and Aller Simplement. Labels from stock, meanwhile, are Jenny Wren, My Collection and Christopher Wren. Ranges are available in sizes 10-18 and in plus sizes from 42-52. To complement the range in stock

A stalwart of the menswear sector in Ireland, Mr Canning ran his eponymous store with his son, John, and lived to see it celebrate 40 years’ trading in October, 2013. He will be missed greatly by his many friends in the fashion industry. We at Futura would like to offer our sincere sympathy to his family and friends. May he rest in peace.

THE GALLERY DÜSSELDORF REPORTS INCREASE IN VISITORS The Gallery Düsseldorf can look back on an extremely successful edition.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

Trade buyers, key accounts and fashionistas were able to discover the latest trends in eveningwear, design and avant-garde fashion as well as enjoying the wide range of accessories on show. In addition to this, fashion photography and video installations were also on display at the various venues, the result of a collaboration with AMD, the Düsseldorf Academy for Fashion and Design. Anja Schierholt, CEO of the Schierholt label said: “To sum up our first participation at The Gallery, I can say that it was absolutely the right decision to exhibit here. We succeeded in winning over many new customers.” The next edition of The Gallery Düsseldorf will be held from 25-28 July 2014.

Contact Sinead Gosson E gossonagencies@eircom.net

Gosson Agencies Ltd 22 Forbes Street

T 01-6706525

Sir John Rogersons Quay

F 01-6706526

Dublin 2

news NEW IRISH AGENT FOR NYDJ NYDJ, the original slimming jeans brand from Los Angeles, has appointed Fashion Developments as its new agent for Ireland. With this strong partnership, NYDJ is set to grow its presence in the Irish market and further expand market shares in Europe.

Saint-James has recently appointed Adare Brands as agent for the Irish market. Saint-James was established in Lower Normandy close to Mont Saint-Michel in 1889. For many centuries, Saint-James was a major location for wool production due to the large volume of sheep in the area. Its pure wool and cotton lines have attracted a large clientele on the coast, but also in the major cities of France, and equally throughout Europe, the United States, Canada, and Japan.

LENNON COURTNEY NOW STOCKED IN HARVEY NICHOLS DUBLIN Exciting times lie ahead for Irish fashion brand Lennon Courtney as it joins a host of Irish and international premium fashion brands in Harvey Nichols Dublin.

Created by two of Ireland’s leading fashion stylists and style commentators – Sonya Lennon and Brendan Courtney – Lennon Courtney’s third collection, ‘Vacation’, is inspired by sunshine, weekend getaways and country escapes and now is available from Harvey Nichols Dublin. ‘Vacation’ is light and easy, and as always designed to flatter a woman’s form. Staying true to Lennon Courtney’s philosophy, the core palette is that of muted tones in light greys and blues, with some added statement accents in fuchsia and royal blue. Irish made knitwear also plays a key role in the collection; with luxuriously soft cashmeres and light and delicate lambs wool, in the form of off the shoulder tops and knitted tees. Known for celebrating femininity, Lennon Courtney has also introduced some new and exciting fabrics this spring / summer including stretch canvas, silk and cashmere.

SKOPES LAUNCH STOCK SERVICE BROCHURE Skopes has launched a new concept Stock Brochure for SS14, which will showcase the best of the menswear label’s fast growing seasonal collection.

Founded in 2003 in Los Angeles, NYDJ introduced a revolutionary jean that was both comfortable and figure flattering, igniting a cult following among women worldwide.

Irish agent Jonathan Gosson of Gosson Agencies mentions how the new brochure complements Skopes’ volume selling continuity range such as the ‘Madrid’ block, a slim-fitting, three-piece contemporary styled suit which comes in eight colourways and cloth designs.

Every NYDJ style features the brand’s signature Lift Tuck Technology that slims from within to make women look and feel a size smaller. The rise hits just at the natural waist to provide not only a slimmer silhouette, but also comfort without gaping at the waistband.

A choice of fits in many cloths (Classic, Tailored, Slim) is available, as well as point-of-sale/ marketing support, subject to account status. Skopes is long-established supplier of ‘Kingsizes’, and carries many mix-n-match suits, jackets and trouser lines up to size 62” from stock.

NYDJ is the top women’s denim brand at department stores in the United States and one of Europe’s fastest growing women’s jeans brands.

ADARE BRANDS APPOINTED AS AGENT FOR SAINT-JAMES

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

news NEW FOOTWEAR ADDITIONS FOR IRISH AGENCY Located at Unit 17, Northern Cross Business Park in Dublin 11, Zara and David Woolfson are now specialising in men’s and ladies’ total comfort leather shoes made in Spain. New brands include Coolway, a young Spanish label specialising in fashionable footwear, and Baerchi, which is renowned for its men’s total comfort shoes. Other brands carried include Desigual, a fresh, young and funky brand; Pitillos, which specialises in footwear that combines comfort with fashion; Victoria Delef, a young casual line; and Menbur, a leading brand in evening wear. Membur

OUTRAGE COLLABORATES WITH CYCLE AGAINST SUICIDE A laudable collaboration has taken place between menswear brand Outrage and Cycle Against Suicide, a charity initiative started by Irish entrepreneur, Jim Breen, as a result of his appearance on RTE’s The Secret Millionaire programme. The aim of the collaboration was to promote help-seeking behaviour and raise awareness of suicide prevention, focusing on Ireland’s most vulnerable demographic – males aged between 18-35 years. The sum of €2 from the purchase of each garment from the Outrage’s AW13 season went to help fund the Cycle Against Suicide campaign; €1 was donated by Outrage

Membur

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

while €1 was donated by Outrage’s independent stockists nationwide. Outrage were the proud title sponsors for the recent 2014 Student Leaders’ Congress, which took place in the RDS on 15 January, 2014. The first of its kind, all-island Student Leaders’ Congress, this attracted 4,000 students from 130 schools from across Ireland. The Congress schedule included a presentation of a selection of schools projects, a mental health discussion led by Rob Carley, which proved hugely popular, as well as panel discussions featuring stars from the world of sports and music, along with performances from Heathers and the Dublin Gospel Choir. The collaboration continues into the SS14 season – customers will be able to spot the bright orange Outrage / Cycle Against Suicide labels in-store – and each and every Outrage garment proudly carrying the Cycle Against Suicide message.

Lupus Commercial Ent. LTD T/A P. Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Mahony Sales Mobile 086 / 2561118 www.marcotozzi.com

interview Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger

Bootcut jeans: “A style that has now gone out of fashion”

It’s a Long Way to Tipperary Daverns of Cashel is a third generation business, originally started by Mary Davern in 1926. Her son, Raymond, joined the business at the tender age of 16 and continued to run it until his retirement in 1998. Raymond Davern Jnr is currently heading the family business, which continues to offer individual service to its customers, catering for every taste and occasion. Daverns of Cashel specialises in the leading designer labels for ladies and gents. On a seasonal basis, buyers for the store attend the most prolific fashion exhibitions to select cutting-edge fashion for their loyal clientele. They have just opened a new Tommy Hilfiger department, which boasts the latest denim collections from the global brand. Raymond Davern Jnr recently chatted to Futura about Tipperary’s much-loved store; its past, present and future Why do think Daverns of Cashel has maintained its success for so long?

ensuring that our presentation is top-class.

Speaking of presentation, Daverns of For the past 90 years, we have always tried Cashel recently had a refit. What changes to create and maintain customer loyalty to the store have taken place? through our diverse and contemporary Our biggest goal with the refit was to brand-mix offering. Our create more shop-in-shop buyers are continuously areas within the store that “We are attending fashion will make a bigger impact always exhibitions and showcases on our customers. This is throughout Europe, something that we hope we evolving, including Dusseldorf and have achieved. bringing the London, which then enables You have a new Tommy best brands to us to offer our customers Hilfiger department. the most current, on-trend our customers” What is it you like about collections. the brand? What challenges has the shop faced over the years? The challenges that we have faced since the store was founded, and, indeed, continue to face, are the challenges we set ourselves: to remain a destination shop that provides good service to our loyal customers, while

Hilfiger is a good example of a brand that allows us to display different product groups - such as clothing, footwear and accessories - all together. The brand is continuously evolving and adapting to the ever-changing needs of its customers. Overall, how is business in general?

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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Like most businesses throughout the country, we have been subjected to numerous obstacles in recent years. 2013 was very difficult for us, unfortunately. This had a lot to do with the weather – a very cold spring and very mild autumn. What brands are performing best for you? We are delighted that there is a great consistency throughout our labels but we have had particular success with the likes of Armani Jeans (ladies) and Paul & Shark (gents), both of which are Italian and are currently proving extremely popular with our customers. Have you noticed any significant changes in consumer spending habits over the years? The most notable difference is that customers are a lot more selective when purchasing items of clothing. This means that the stock we keep has to be the best quality at the best price.

“We have always tried to create and maintain customer loyalty through our diverse and contemporary brand-mix offering”

What changes have you noticed in customers’ tastes over the years? Are there items or styles that have always proven popular, for instance, or, indeed, anything that has gone out of fashion? Skinny jeans are very much ontrend at the moment, which comes at the expense of the boot cut, a style that has now gone out of fashion. Have you taken on any new brands for the upcoming year? Skinny jeans: “Very much on trend at the moment”

We’re delighted to be opening a new Calvin Klein shop-in-shop in August this year. They are a world-class brand and we are very optimistic about its success. What does the future hold for Daverns of Cashel? We are always evolving, bringing the best brands to our customers. Hopefully, in the future, business will generally get a little easier with customers becoming less price-sensitive.

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

feature

NEW BRANDS JOIN MARKET LEADERS AT CHRISTOPHER WREN CLOTHING COMPANY LTD.

Pause Café

Sathia

T-Studio Therapy

Aller Simplement

My Collection

Ana Sousa

SATHIA - NEW THIS SEASON

Measured improvements in economic growth combined with positive expectations for continued consumer spending will put the retail industry in a relatively good place in 2014.

Elegant cuts and styles give this collection that elegant and chic touch which makes Sathia suitable for every occasion. One-colour knitwear is skilfully mixed with print dresses, tops and skirts in a perfect blend where the customer is part of it.

In keeping with market demands and a sense of looking further afield to offer buyers a great choice in brands, Christopher Wren Clothing Company Ltd have now added some exciting new labels to their forward order collections for Autumn / Winter 2014.

T-STUDIO THERAPY - NEW THIS SEASON

Forward order collections offer retailers exclusivity and the opportunity to build on a brand season after season. Seeing it as a way to work closely with buyers, Jerry and Ursula Wren provide a choice of brands to cater for every sector of the market, offering brands at middle end of the market right through to value for money brands which give a good margin.

Four themes, four tales to forget about everyday life’s difficulties - this is T-Studio Therapy: a collage of fanciful colours and materials that spurs the joy of life with a sophisticated elegance.

Visitors to their Dublin Showroom at Christopher Wren House at 43, Fashion City, can view the following AW14 collections:

Renowned for its slimming and fit jeans, Ana Sousa specialises in sharp, classic tailored looks and fashionable mix-and-match day to evening wear, including dresses, skirts, trousers, jackets and coats. The label, which is stocked in 66 stores around the world, boasts high-end styling and quality along with attractive price points.

ANA SOUSA- NEW THIS SEASON

PAUSE CAFÉ Creativity, originality, colour, choice and a broad size range (from 36-54) are the major advantages of this exciting French label, which is designed for ladies with character who know what they want.

STOCK COLLECTIONS MY COLLECTION

EROKE

Stunning ladies’ dresses, separates and co-ordinates now available from stock.

Already successfully established throughout Europe, this progressive Italian label is famous for its unique prints and wearable dresses, which are ideal for any occasion.

ALLER SIMPLEMENT An in stock collection of young, well-priced fashion in up-to-the-minute colours and styles, which are updated weekly.

MISSING JOHNNY A young, cutting-edge collection which takes inspiration from the world of theatre, music, comic and literature, the brand is distributed in 10 countries with almost 700 sale points.

STOCK SERVICE AND FORWARD ORDER COLLECTIONS Sizes 10–18 & Plus Sizes 42–52 Accessories: Legging, Tights and Fashion Jewellery also in stock.

SAVAGE CULTURE

CHRISTOPHER WREN CLOTHING COMPANY LTD.

Founded in the 80s and distributed across all five continents, Savage Culture’s ranges are curious and daring, boasting strong colour and personality. The almost handcrafted process results in unique garments embellished with embroideries, crochets, patches, rhinestones and assorted elements that enhance the garments.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

Christopher Wren House Unit 43, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel 01-429 5039 christopherwren@eircom.net www.christopherwren.ie

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CHRISTOPHER WREN Clothing Company Ltd. Invites you to view their Autumn 2014 Ranges

CHRISTOPHER WREN Clothing Company Ltd.,

CHRISTOPHER WREN HOUSE, UNIT 43 FASHION CITY, BALLYMOUNT, DUBLIN 24

Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/ChristopherWrenClothingCoLtd

Tel: 00 353 1 429 5039 Email: christopherwren@eircom.net www.christoperwren.ie

Find us on Twittter Christopher Wren@WrenChristopher

interview

A Passion For Fashion

Having recently opened his first menswear shop in Glasnevin on Dublin’s north side, retailer Declan Mahon has high hopes for a successful future

If fortune truly favours the brave, Declan Mahon should be a dead cert for a generous serving of luck over the coming months. Opening a menswear store is a potentially risky venture at the best of times, even more so during the prevailing economic climate. The affable Dubliner exudes optimism and positivity, however, and views the recent opening of Collar & Cuff, his new menswear business, as an inevitable progression of his long-standing interest in fashion. “Ever since I was a young lad, I’ve always had a keen interest in fashion and also what people wear, how they wear it and, sometimes, why they wear it,” he says. Now in his thirties, Mahon has earned his fashion stripes over the years, amassing a diverse range of skills and experience in a variety of positions. “I first started working in the rag trade for a company called Cambridge Clothing Companya major Men’s Tailored Clothing Company in Melbourne, Australia, as an Area Manager looking after over 100 wholesale accounts and also overseeing the companies retail stores (Joe Black the Tailor) in my areas,” he recalls. “I worked there up until my partner and I decided to return home to Ireland. “I was given the opportunity by Cambridge Clothing when a close friend of mine, Ian Tyrer, who was the General Manager, approached me and offered me the position. From that day on I’ve been hooked by the rag trade; it’s become

not only my profession but it’s my life. A true passion.” Mahlon’s passion for fashion found its latest expression on 25 November, 2013, when his shop Collar & Cuff opened its doors for business in Glasnevin Dublin’s north side. A splendid addition to an area somewhat lacking in independent menswear retailers, the store – which is located on Harts Corner and is adjacent to a wedding dress shop, The Bridal Corner - is home to a well-edited mix of brands including Scribe of London, Harper, Remus Uomo and Allure Menswear, all of which have been chosen by Mahon himself. It is, of course, too early to gauge the success of the respective brands but, if business to date is a reliable barometer, Mahon has chosen well. “I’ve settled on my choice of labels I offer for the time being,” he says. “I am extremely happy with what I offer and its price point and quality of it.” A brisk trade since opening would suggest, it seems, that Mahon’s customers would agree. Sales for Scribe, Mahon mentions, have been particularly impressive in the opening four weeks, while Allure has been a strong performer in hire wear. Pinpointing - and successfully targeting - one’s target market is crucial for any business, not least a retailer. Mahon’s sights are firmly focused on the wedding market, which, he mentions, offers enormous potential.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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“I believe there is huge gap in the market catering for weddings,” he explains. “At Collar & Cuff we specialise in catering for the Groom on his day, but we also see ourselves as a specialist in any kind of formal wear whether it be in hire or in sales.” Understanding his growing client base and meeting their evolving demands is, of course, just as important as attracting customers in the first place. Mahon believes that his clientele are not necessarily brand-conscious but that they place particular emphasis on quality. “Nobody has really heard of Scribe of London,” he says, “but as soon they try the garment on, they are blown away by the fit, fabric and finish on the suit. I am confident of big things when it comes to the brand, and I have been working closely the distributor Pat Morely of Lapel 1865 in Cork to try and bring the brand to the next level.” Pricing is another key component determining the success of any retailer and Mahon is conscious that he must price garments in line with customers’ purchasing power and expectations. “Obviously customer are price- sensitive but, being in the middle market, I make it clear that with my product you really are getting what you pay for,” he explains. “In hire wear, it all really comes down to budget and how much money they have set a side for the groom’s party. I try to work within those budgets.” As a nascent business, Cuff & Collar’s marketing

strategy can make or break its future - a factor Mahon readily acknowledges. What he lacks in a hefty marketing budget, however, he hopes to offset by a diligent use of all potential sources of growth. “Having 30,000 cars a day pass by my shop window is a massive marketing tool for me,” says Mahon, acknowledging the importance of the shop’s fortuitous location. “I also utilise social media to its capacity to market through Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.” He adds: “Fashion magazines and Wedding journals are also going to be ways for me to spread awareness of my shop. I will also be attending as many wedding fairs in 2014 as possible to reach out to future brides and grooms.” The lack of other menswear retailers within the vicinity could prove to be either a blessing - a lack of competition means shoppers have no other immediate stores to tempt them part with their Euro - or a curse in that the area is not known as a hotbed of men’s fashion. With the city centre approximately three kilometres away, though, Mahon is in little doubt that stern competition for his trade is not too far away. As a result, ensuring that Collar & Cuff plays to its strengths, establishes itself as a ‘must-visit’ shopping destination and, crucially, giving the shop a USP (unique selling point) are essential.

Allure Menswear in hire wear side gives me something that nobody in Dublin has and, in the case of Allure, nobody in Ireland has. Therefore I can confidently tell my customer what they are about to buy is exclusive clothing and cannot be got anywhere in Dublin. “I also believe that the in store comfort and experience in which I offer the customer is unrivalled, I believe in offering the three S’s: Style, Service and Satisfaction.” Floored in handsome walnut and painted in fresh cream tones, the store itself is a testament to Mahon’s belief in the importance of display and presentation. Collar & Cuff, he explains, “is laid out like a show room: big windows, plenty of light, loads of mannequins. I’ve also introduced a manly vintage theme to the store by getting my hands on some really old tennis rackets, golf clubs, footballs, hurls etc.” Unusual touches here and there accentuate the attractive feel to the premises. A natural finish brick wall, for example, adds a rustic touch. Elsewhere, what Mahon describes as a ‘consultancy corner’ is fitted with a leather sofa and coffee table where, he laughs, “an Espresso coffee machine is overused!” Mahon’s investment in the aesthetics seems, thankfully, to have paid dividends. “I’m truly delighted with how it has turned out and the amount of compliments I have received echoes that,” he says.

“Carrying brands exclusive to me is a massive point of difference from other shops, “Mahon With a successful launch safely under his belt, acknowledges. “Successful brands like Scribe there is 14:30 little risk of1complacency setting in. D2_MenswearIreland-FEB2014-ARTWORK_Layout 1 10/02/2014 Page of London in the retail side of my business, and Mahon knows all too well the importance of

evolving the business in order to grown as well as retain customers. “My mantra in retailing is simple: the day you stand still is the day you get caught,” he says. “I’ve learned that it’s important to have an offer that is on-trend and in style. Men have become much more fashion-conscious in recent times and they now know what they want and what looks are ontrend. So, keep moving with me!” Looking ahead, Mahon is optimistic about the business and, indeed, the menswear sector as a whole. “I’m a positive creature at the best of times but I see 2014 being a better year than recent years. Consumer trends are starting to change slightly - although they are still cautious, they are still willing to spend,” he says. “On the wedding side, I’m predicting a massive 2014 - all the superstitious couples who would not wed in 2013 have held off until 2014 and, with the demise of the biggest hire wear company in Dublin recently, I see potential for a big year. I hope I am right and I can’t wait to be a part of it.” Confident be may be but Mahon is also cautious, acknowledging that evolution, rather than revolution, is the formula for any successful retailer. His hopes for the next five years, he mentions, include “establishing myself and grow the business steadily - not too fast.” He adds: “I would like to one day have a second shop but for now and foreseeable future, I want grow a successful business and gain a reputation as the ‘go-to’ place for weddings and formal wear.

Make it a ‘warm’ welcome to

Autumn-Winter 2014 For more details contact: Billy Casey

Tel: 01 289 5807 (R.O.I.)

Mervyn Boyd Tel: 02891 458655 (N.I.) Head Office:

+44 (0)1924 375651

Email:

doubletwo@wsg.co.uk

www.doubletwo.co.uk

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

footwear trends It’s perhaps hardly surprising to see that boots, as ever, are heavily represented on the AW14 runway, most notably in high heel form, from a shorter ankle style to a sexy over-the-knee silhouette.

l ad i es ’

Despite the ever-present assortment of boots, however, what’s interesting is the gradual shift towards more open, sandal-like styles, leading us to speculate that the shift to a season-less assortment is also in full effect. Open-toe ankle booties, mules, strappy sandals and various open shank silhouettes re-emphasise the season-less movement in accessories.

LOW ANKLE BOOT

Boots are making such a strong statement for the AW14 season with varying heel and shank heights. This lowcut flat boot is practical and sleek, making it perfect for everyday wear in the coming season.

MARY JANE

Although the traditional Mary Jane silhouette was seen all over the runways, the quirky T-strap variation was the most interesting update to this style for AW14.

OPEN-TOE BOOTIE

The open toe bootie is one of the most important silhouettes for the forthcoming AW season. The simple structure of the style makes it the perfect combination of practical and fashionable.

f t

OVER-THE-KNEE BOOT

Sexy and sleek, the over-the-knee boot is set to be explosive. Whether done in a stretch suede or a luxe leather, this style is a must-have.

LACE UP SANDAL

Open cut-outs and plenty of foot exposure are no longer strictly for the warmer summer months, as seen on the most recent runways. Lace-front sandals are sexy and, as demonstrated by numerous designers, can be paired with tights for the colder season.

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advertorial ipanema

BRAZILIAN SOLE

Flip-flop brand Ipanema delivers summer style as well as lowering its ethical footprint Conquering Brazilian feet and walking new paths worldwide, Ipanema flip-flops and sandals have grown to become the stylish footwear choice for beaches and cities alike. Designed and manufactured in their Brazilian premises alongside sibling brand Melissa, Ipanema has showcased a strong collection for 2014 following the warmest UK summer on recent record. With every season inspired by Ipanema beach in Rio de Janeiro, the summer 2014 collection features the iconic styles for women, men and children in a spectrum of colours, with the addition of a premium collection which exudes feminine glamour in the form of unique styles and printed patterns for which Ipanema has become renowned. Summer 2014 will also see the release of a capsule collection with supermodel Gisele Bündchen. Now in its eighth season, the collaboration will see Bündchen continue as a spokesperson for Ipanema and feature in the global campaign.

With an eye on the environment and the future, Ipanema maintains strong sustainable and ethical policies throughout the design and manufacturing processes. Unlike many other footwear brands from Brazil, Ipanema do not use rubber, but instead focus on developing patented sustainable materials. All products are made from 100% recyclable PVC, a material that may be recycled again and again, resulting in a lower carbon footprint. Furthermore, the development of the world’s most advanced mould-injection

technology

has

enabled

www.ipanema.uk.com Maximise your summer sales this season with Ipanema. To receive your catalogue and current stock list, please contact: Sales (Ireland) Karolina Lewicka karolina.lewicka@mercuryhouse.com t: +353 (0)860 464 308

Ipanema to develop the Anatomic foot bed which is shaped to the human foot ensuring durability and comfort from the moment they are worn. The combination of the most stylish designs, excellent prices, and Ipanema‘s commitment to sustainability ensures the summer 2014 collection will be well recognised on the beaches, pavements and at festivals next summer.

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Marketing & PR Mason Young, mason.young@mercuryhouse.com t: 00 44 1992 701 832 m: 00 44 7720 734 887

footwear trends

m en’s

Trendy footwear options abound for AW14. From sturdy boots to elegant slippers, there’s no shortage of choice to put your best foot forward

ANKLE BOOTS The ankle boot was one of the strongest footwear items for men this season. The silhouette ranges from casual to formal, with brands such as Hardy Aimes choosing a low-cut combat boot to pair with suiting. Elsewhere, bluechip brands Valentino and Daks alluded to a slight moto influence with their use of buckles and strap to lend a rugged aesthetic to their boots.

BROGUE BOOT One of the strongest boot options for men for AW14 is the brogue boot. Design elements such as wings, wingtips and side perforations are taken from a brogue shoe and imposed upon the combat boot shape. Variation is brought to the style through mixed materials, burnished treatments, brighter colors and, for a particularly ontrend look, contrast soles.

HIKING BOOT Not just the preserve of hill walkers, hiking boots continue to trend with slight variations for the season. Speed and D-ring lacing remain but are not as prominent as in the past. For an example of great commercial direction for this style, look to Topman Design whose designs provide plenty of appeal for both the contemporary and young men’s markets.

LOAFER Casual yet elegant, loafers have proven themselves as a versatile footwear option for men through their ability to transition through all seasons. The winter loafer will see updates such as a thick treaded sole, as used by brands including Prada and Versace; while those dapper English elements like tassels still appear in collections from the likes of Oliver Spencer.

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A novel touch for AW14 is the focus on the top, whether in the form or a simple and discreet contrast or a technique like woven leather.

SLIPPERS Slippers are more luxurious than the monochrome styles of past seasons. Prints and patterns such as plaid, zig-zags and optical stripes, join opulent materials such as velvet to highlight this delightfully dandy footwear option.

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Tamaris Ireland • David Coogan • 10, Shrewsbury Manor • Drogheda, Co. Louth • Phone: 041 9847369 • Mobile: 086 2779480 • E-Mail: david.coogan@wortmann.com • tamaris.eu Wortmann KG: P.O. Box 31 53 • D-32721 Detmold/Germany • Phone: +49.52 31.605.129 • Fax: +49.52 31.605.5.129 • E-Mail: sales@wortmann.com • www.wortmann.com

social eaturemedia

The Growing Importance of Social Media Nowadays your customer does not only walk down the street with confidence, or into a room with their head held high and a grin on their face waiting for someone to compliment their newly purchased shoes. Instead, if they are really proud of their purchase, they take it upon themselves to tell everyone about it via a social media platform of their choice. In the prevailing dot com era, the power and influence of word of mouth is being overshadowed by the growing trend of ‘word of click’. With word of click the customer voluntarily takes on a type of brand ambassador role by communicating a message to all of their online friends and followers, based on their own personal experience with a product or service. This differs from traditional offline marketing and advertising because social media platforms allow for the customer to

speak about a brand and give the businesses an opportunity to respond, thus creating two-way communications between the businesses and their target audience.

SOCIAL MEDIA MATTERS TO CUSTOMERS; HOW SHOULD BUSINESSES RESPOND? If your customers are spending an increasing amount of time on social media - and in doing so they are also talking about your business while they are online - it should be your priority to ensure the following: • Be fully aware of which social media site your customers are using to air their opinion about

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your business. Are they tweeting about it on Twitter, sharing statuses about it on Facebook or posting photos of a product they bought from you on Instagram? • The business has the facility, i.e. an active account, on the relevant social media site to respond to this customer praise and queries in a real time manner. The underlying message is that if your customer is regularly active on social media, then your business should be as well. However like everything in business one should not rush in without thinking and should always thoroughly plan something through. Therefore I will address some questions that businesses that are trying to create a social media presence may have and I will offer a number of solutions.

underlying message is that if your customer “The is regularly active on social media, then your business should be as well” WHAT SOCIAL MEDIA SITES DO MY CUSTOMERS USE? Irish people have fully embraced social media and the number of active Irish users is growing rapidly year after year. In ‘The Irish Digital Consumer Report 2013’, Shane O’Leary (2013) researched which social networking sites are most popular among the Irish. When it comes to Facebook, there are 2.3 million active users in Ireland, 53% of which are female. The largest age group of Irish user was found to be 25-34 year-olds. Ireland currently has the tenth highest number of Twitter users per capita in the world. There are 600,000 daily users of Twitter in Ireland. The age profile of Irish users varies from students to professionals. Figures show that 53% of 1524 year-olds and 46% of those aged 25-34 are regular users of Twitter. Instagram, the social media site that allows users to transform their photos in to filtered and vintage images, is slowly increasing its number of active Irish users. Indeed, approximately 14% of the population over the age of 15 now has an Instagram account. Although Irish people now have various social media accounts, it is crucial that a business focuses on their particular target market when deciding on which social media to use. Socialcrawlytics.com is an insightful free tool that businesses can use to help determine which social media site is right for the target market they wish to reach. This tool can crawl a business’s current website to find which data and content is most engaging, and on which social media platform it is being shared on by users. If a business knows which social media platform its website content is being shared on, this can act as a good indication as to where their target market are online and where they are talking about their business. This tool also allows business to check their competitors’ websites, which would be extremely helpful for start-up businesses whose website is only recently active – in this instance, if they find a competitor that has a similar or same target audience to them, they can use the tool to crawl their competitors website to understand which social media network their target audience is using to share content online.

NOW MY BUSINESS HAS A SOCIAL MEDIA ACCOUNT, WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND I SHOULD DO WITH IT? For a retailer to ensure customers continue to return to their store, they will regularly change the stock in the shop and update the products and offers on their website. Such an attitude should also be taken with regards to your social media; it should be your business’s priority to regularly create new content and ensure that you are engaging online with your target market. It is essential that once you have set up your social media account that you are posting on it daily or, at the very least, several times per week. These posts can be humorous or informative but will serve various functions, such as informing the customer of an exclusive online sale or sharing photos of a new line of shoes that has just arrived into the shop. Furthermore, the posts should arouse your followers’ interest in your business and, ultimately, make them want to revisit the shop or website to make a purchase. Considering that it is hard enough work to stay on top of all the other tasks associated with running a business, it is worth investing in a tool such as Hootsuite.com to help manage your business’s social media posts. This tool allows the user to schedule posts on their various social media accounts for different dates in the future. A week’s worth of social media posts could be scheduled, meaning that the user would not have to worry about remembering to post every day. Hootsuite also provide users with a weekly analytic report by email. However, be aware that this information is based solely on the posts scheduled through the Hootsuite tool. This report will contain graphs relating to: • Most popular links • Number of clicks per day • Geographical information of the users clicking through • Top referrers With regards to customers posting on your business’s page or mentioning the business in a post, ensure that all queries and comments are responded to the day the customer posts them.

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ARE THERE RULES I NEED TO ABIDE? Social Media sites are regularly used by businesses to run competitions to win new products that they are promoting. Facebook is a common place to host competitions. There are, however, rules to abide by and, should these be broken, Facebook may choose to shut down your business’s page. The ‘Accurate tagging in promotions’ rule is one which is often mistakenly over looked by businesses, therefore be mindful that: • It is permitted to ask people to submit names of a new product in exchange for a chance to win a prize • It is not permitted to ask people to tag themselves in pictures of a new product in exchange for a chance to win

IS SOCIAL MEDIA WORTH ALL THE HASSLE FOR MY BUSINESS? Yes! It shouldn’t be seen as hassle as the tools that are readily available and detailed here are designed to make the move to social media as simple as possible. More importantly, from a sales perspective, your business cannot afford to ignore social media. Research by eBay (2012) predicts that UK sales directly via social media are set to grow to £290m by the end of 2014; this is related to the fact that more retailers are now targeting their customers with personalised offers and deals on social networks. With £3bn of retail sales predicted to be influenced by social media this year, now is the time for your business to take a leap of faith and utilise social media. Whatever your views on the social media phenomenon, there is no denying that it has the potential to transform your business. Used intelligently and effectively, it can serve as an excellent medium to strengthen relationships and engagement with your customers. Whether it’s an Instagram account, a profile on Facebook or a regular Twitter feed, taking the time to establish a well-maintained account could pay dividends and should be considered by any proactive business.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

showtalk

Showtalk GDS 12-14 MARCH, DÜSSELDORF

From 12 to 14 March 2014 GDS International event for shoes & accessories will be taking place in Düsseldorf. The trade fair functions as a meeting place and information platform for orientation in the international shoe business. Some 800 exhibitors from over 30 countries will be presenting to the international trade audience their shoe, bag and accessories collections for the 2014/15 autumn/winter season. GDS – which is anticipating approximately 28,000 trade visitors from around 79 countries - provides a comprehensive market overview of the progressive and classic premium segment, of the high-selling, colourful sports and denim wear segment while presenting design newcomers and brands with broad market acceptance alongside the latest in children’s fashion. For the first time now, shoemaking firm Rizzolli, which has been in business over one hundred years, will be represented with elegant women’s and men’s shoes. T&F Slack Shoemaker London will be showcasing colourful brogues and the Delle Cose label will be presenting its new bag collection. Newcomers in the children’s segment,

meanwhile, include French supplier Little Mary and Italy’s Asso S.r.l. with the Asso, Didi Blu and Laura Biagiotti collections, as well as Red Rag Develab and Zandbergen from Holland. Other exhibitors include Spanish firm Pablosky and Austruian brand, Nanga. In addition to the exhibition stands at GDS, visitors can look forward to a wide range of fashion shows, lectures and events. Celebrating a special anniversary is the trendy Design Attack area, which is now in its 20th edition. Since 2004 Design Attack has regularly surprised visitors with a topical motto and suitable stand concept. Each time up-andcoming designers are treated here to an elaborately staged setting for showcasing their products. The motto for the forthcoming edition is ‘ALPINE ROCKERS’ BARN’. The exciting mix of independent fashion, urban and underground streetwear plus accessories and lifestyle products is this time set against the backdrop of idyllic country life in the Alps combined with roaring motorbike sounds and gritty rockers. From July 2014 the new GDS will have a new schedule (30 July to 1 August 2014) and a new approach. This will make GDS

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the kick-off event, offering visitors a comprehensive overview at the start to the season. Tying in with the new approach to GDS, July 2014 will also see the launch of a reworked trade fair concept: tag it! by GDS – the show for private label in shoes and accessories will be in the starting blocks from 29 July to 1 August 2014 as the consistent further development of the GLOBAL SHOES event. The new trade fair concept is aimed at international shoe and accessory manufacturers and dealers with a focus on private label productions. Further details online at gds- online.com

showtalk

MODA WOMAN 16–18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM

MODA GENT 16-18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM

For their upcoming edition, Moda Woman will now feature a brand new space dedicated to evening and occasionwear. Moda Noir will see some of the most prolific brands from across evening and occasionwear assemble around a dedicated plaza area, providing a focal point for all things glitz including Carla Ruiz, the experts in female beauty and elegance.

Offering the top pick of major international names, retail favourites and new launches from across the menswear industry, Moda Gent is established as one of the leading UK shows for contemporary and mainstream designs.

Mon Cheri, John Charles, Linea Raffaelli and Ann Balon are among the leading line-up of brands supporting this specialised area. Other changes taking place include Moda White’s change of location to the front of the show, where two new brands, Léo Guy and Cristyn & Co., will join industry stalwarts such as Sahara, Elisa Calvaletti and Two Danes

The February edition will boast some of the biggest names in menswear alongside add-on products such as intimate apparel, belts, ties, hats and bags. Visitors to the forthcoming event will find the best in contemporary, urban, lifestyle and tailoring designs across a series of dedicated catwalks in Hall 17. For those seeking more directional designs, Select is located on the border between Moda Footwear and Moda Gent, and will bring together a host of contemporary brands in one dedicated area.

showyourejockey.com

Contact: John Hayes, Southern Ireland, Tel: +087 2100 373, Email: john.hayes@jockey.com F23 Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014 Patrick Coyle, Northern Ireland, Tel: +44 7860 274485, Email:Futura, Patrick@coyleagencies.com www.jockey.com

showtalk

MODA FOOTWEAR 16-18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM

Visitors – who span the gamut of buyers, accessory and fashion brand designers and heads of fashion companies – can expect a comprehensive show that will showcase some of the latest collections from a diverse range of exhibitors, including spinners, weavers, accessory makers, design studios, tanners and garment manufacturers.

A host of fresh faces will debut at Moda Footwear this A/W as the show welcomes iconic brands and European success stories to its new season line-up. Luxurious leathers are set to be a prominent feature across both men’s and women’s design this season.

The February edition will welcome 25 new exhibitors: 15 weavers from Italy, France, Turkey, South Korea, Japan and Portugal; 4 spinners and knitters specialised in creative flatbed knits showing at the dedicated platform Knitwear Solutions, and 6 workshops with exceptional expertise and techniques exhibiting at the exclusive space Maison d’Exceptions.

Iconic British footwear giant Dr Martens will join the February edition of Moda show for the first time to present its full range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear; and will be joined by British brand Cara Wholesale, which will present its range of women’s shoes for everyday wear.

Further details online at www.premierevision.com

A strong contingent of Spanish labels will also make the journey to Moda for the first time this season. Exporting Spain’s quality leather and traditional shoe making methods, brands including Hispanitas and Luis Gonzalo will be showcasing their interpretations of classic designs and Spanish flair. Other Spanish newcomers include 24 HRS and ladies’ shoe specialist Marian, which will offer a vast range of elegant and ontrend styles, bringing everything from court shoes to boots to Moda Footwear for the first time. Additional brands making their Moda Footwear debut include Sorel, Minnetonka, Blundstone, Elvetik and children’s brand BLUW.

FASHION COMING TOGETHER 23-25 FEBRUARY 2014 A leading event in the Irish trade show calendar, Fashion Coming Together will be taking place from 23-25 February at Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24.

PREMIÈRE VISION PLURIEL 18-20 FEBRUARY PARC D’EXPOSITIONS DE PARIS NORD, VILLEPINTE Following the highly successful February and September 2013 editions, which attracted 58,000 and nearly 63,000 visitors respectively, Première Vision Pluriel returns to the Parc d’Expositions de Paris Nord from 18-20 February.

The cream of Irish brands – approximately 300 labels from over 60 companies – will be on display and displaying their respective collections for AW 2014, as well as their current stock. In addition to a comprehensive selection of ladieswear, menswear, childrenswear and footwear will also be shown.

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SHOE.COM GMBH & CO. KG

MEMBER OF WORTMANN-GROUP David O’Mahony phone: +353 (0)872 66 51 74 david.omahony@soliver-shoes.com www.soliver-shoes.com Belfast 10. – 13. February Limerick 17. – 18. February Galway 24. – 25. February Sligo 26. – 27. February Coleraine 3. March Waterford 5. – 6. March GDS 12. – 14. March 2014 GDS, Hall 3, No. 3B65

SHOES

vox pop - ladies

How Low Can You Go? VOX POP: The Christmas Sales

VANILLA BOUTIQUE,

CLARE CLOTHING,

FERMOY, CORK

LETTERKENNY, CO. DONEGAL

BRÍD SEXTON

CLARE MCNICKLE

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? It was a good sale for us – not excellent, but good.

When do you go into sales? We held off until 30 December – we wanted to enjoy Christmas with our families.

What sort of discounts were offered? We offered a 50% discount across the board straight away.

What were the big successes in the sale? Like most years, our coats – particularly the more expensive ones – proved popular. Our customers know that our sales are good and so usually hold off until after Christmas to buy them.

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? In truth, our sales this year were okay, although nothing to write home about. We went into sales in early December but it was

Nothing springs to mind. In general, things

keep things fresh.

Our

When do you go into sales? In early December.

Yes, we definitely noticed a big improvement this year.

Christmas

sales

started

December.

What sort of discounts were offered?

Our discounts ranged from 30% to 50%, depending on the brand.

Before Christmas, we had a 20% discount. After Christmas, that increased to 40%, finishing off with 50%.

What were the big successes in the sale? Coats were a strong seller for us this year, tend to hold off until post-Christmas to purchase coats.

Was anything slow to sell? In general, the colour black was difficult for us to sell all year.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales?

We were quite happy with December in general. Things slowed down a little over the days following Christmas up until the New Year, largely due to the bad weather, but it picked up again in January.

When do you go into sales?

up.

were consistent. We have a great buyer and are frequently changing labels, which help

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale?

after Christmas when things really picked

particularly our Marc O’Polo range. Ladies

Was anything slow to sell?

KABUKI BOUTIQUE, CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, LEITRIM - LOUISE MERRICK

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? Spending was about the same as last year.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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What were the big successes in the sale? Overall in December, our dresses proved hugely popular thanks to the many Christmas parties and Christmas weddings taking place over the season.

Was anything slow to sell? This year, we found that our coats didn’t sell as strongly as before. Usually, women purchase coats every second year, so maybe it was on account of that.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? There is definitely more confidence and positivity in people; customers don’t seem to be afraid of spending like they used to. They also seem to follow the expression: Quality not quantity, and are, once again, spending more on select items.

Retailers’ reactions to the recent Christmas sales proved surprisingly disparate. While some expressed their satisfaction, others were less pleased. And while some stores waited until after almost a full week after Christmas, others began cutting prices as early as the first week of December. Here, six independent retailers from Cork, Leitrim, Donegal, Tipperary, Meath and Wexford share their views, opinions and experiences

MARIE THERESE BOUTIQUE, THURLES, CO. TIPPERARY MARIE KENNEDY

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? We went into sales in the middle of December, which proved very popular. We also held a three-day sale in November where we offered a 20% discount on everything in the store - this gave us a good boast in the run-up to Christmas.

When do you go into sales?

LADY M BOUTIQUE, ENFIELD, CO. MEATH MARY O’NEILL

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale?

Being honest, our Christmas sales this year

but they picked up eventually and we nearly

weren’t wonderful. In general, they were

cleared out of everything by the end.

What were the big successes in the sale? Our customers love bargains, so most of our clothes and collection were in high demand everything from our knitwear to our dresses to our tops and jeans. Some of the popular labels that stand out include Sandwich, Street One and White Stuff.

Was anything slow to sell? In comparison to last year, we didn’t have as many takers for our jackets.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? All in all, it remained largely the same, though with a slight improvement. We feel that things are changing for the better so we are very optimistic for 2014 and beyond.

very slow.

When do you go into sales?

We waited until after Christmas and started

On 27 December.

on 28 December.

What sort of discounts were offered? We offered 20% before Christmas then increased it to 30% after Christmas.

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale?

Our sales were slow to start with this year,

We went into sale 10 days before Christmas.

What sort of discounts were offered?

THE REAL WOMAN, WICKLOW TOWN LINDA WALSH

Discounts went as high as 50%. Towards the latter part of the sales, certain items were discounted by 70%.

What sort of discounts were offered? We started off with 30% reductions, which then increased to 50% as the sales continued.

What were the big successes in the sale? We always find that outerwear is very popular. Customers tend to wait until the

What were the big successes in the sale? There was nothing that stood out as a big success.

sales for big tickets items such as coats.

Was anything slow to sell? Was anything slow to sell?

Unfortunately, most things were slow to

There was nothing really; in general, there

sell, particularly during the beginning of our

was consistency throughout.

sales.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales?

Our sales this year weren’t as successful as

We didn’t really notice much of a change,

the previous year. One of the reasons might

definitely nothing dramatic anyway. We’re

be due to the stormy weather, which saw

optimistic that this won’t be the case over

many people stay at home.

the coming year, though.

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

eature- ladies’ must-haves trends

Trends: Ladies’ Must-Have Items for AW14

biker jackets Although biker jackets have a lasting relevance in ladies’ fashion, tough themes like Punk and Motosport bring new updates to the item, from classic to elongated and moto jacket styles. For AW14, we see the biker take on other popular trends in outerwear, such as elongated or cropped shapes, and even new coat hybrid styles. Mixed media constructions encourage the use of non-leather materials like fur, while contrast trim is also popular. Additional zippers are also common.

An eclectic and exciting season for ladieswear awaits for AW14. Daring, decorative and occasionally decadent, there’s a wealth of covetable fashion in store. But what are the key pieces? We’ve distilled the most essential and influential trends and narrowed the must-have items to the following fabulous five

Balmain

SWEATSHIRTS Fabulous rather than fusty, the sweatshirt becomes a major must-have this season in both knits and wovens thanks to an athletic push from Pro Sport and Motosport themes. A wide variety of design updates are on hand, ranging from commercial colour blocking, screens or contrast sleeves to more technical advancements like quilting or neoprene materials. The moto end of the trend is keen on leather applications and embroidered emblems.

Katie Eary

Yeojin Bae

Sylvester

Katie Eary

Megan Kerr

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trends - ladies’ must-haves

CROPPED PANTS

MINI SKIRTS

Cropped silhouettes move forward as a favourite in the pants classification, taking on a wide array of shapes from slim to wide leg, menswear inspired and crease-front styles. A significant portion of design applications - mainly in slim shapes - relate to retro themes, including 50s Flash, Film Noir and 60s Swing.

The mini skirt has lasting relevance in the young contemporary market, which is evident in a wide range of themes. School Girl triumphs the mini skirt suit, while tougher looks like the studded wrap skirt in Grunge and utility mini in Motosport are also found. 80s Revival also features noteworthy details from slit minis to draped styles.

Cropped pants in wider shapes speak to Russian Revolution while menswear fits factor in for Tomboy. Slim and ultra-slim fits often feature crease front details or jacquard materials, while wide leg shapes may be accompanied by men’s pleat front details or cuffed hems.

Although knit pleated styles speak to girlish influence, most design updates achieve a tough aesthetic with leather, embellished, biker inspired or quilted updates. Slits are optional, while wrap styling is a favourite from Isabel Marant, which is likely to translate at retail.

Anna Thomas

Kuwaii

Myntra

Life With Bird

Thursday Sunday

OVERSIZED COATS

Victoria Beckham

Topshop Unique

Celine

The oversized coat takes over where last

season’s mod coat left off, set primarily to the retro 50s Flash theme. Blanket coat styles also extend into the Bohemia trend. The new voluminous cocoon styles draw attention to silhouette and detail. Sloped shoulders, wide sleeves and double-breasted styling is noted. Select details like large collars or lapels are an easy add-on, while low-slung self belts are also found. Additional highlights include contrast trim and fur collars. Malaika Raiss

Louis Vuitton

Carven

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

eature interview

Paul Lynch and Brian O’Shea from Brian James Menswear, Killarney

Brothers In Arms Lynch Agencies is one of the country’s leading menswear agents, supplying retailers from the 32 counties with some of fashion’s most prolific brands. Run by brothers Stephen and Paul Lynch, the agency has recently opened their third showroom. Paul talked to Futura about the family’s sartorial heritage, as well as Lynch Agencies’ work in ensuring that Ireland is kept abreast of all the latest global trends and styles Walking down vibrant Camden Street in Dublin 2, you’d be forgiven for not noticing the seemingly small menswear store, Lynch B & Sons. Its exterior may be modest and unassuming, but go through the front door and you’ll soon realise that appearances can be deceptive. Opened in 1932, the family-run business started out as a gentleman’s outfitters. Three generations later, grandson Stephen took the experience he gathered in the store, as well as during his time as a sales representative, and set up a menswear agency, Lynch Agencies, at the back of the citycentre premise. Some time later, his brother, Paul, left his job in software to join him in his endeavours. “When we were younger, we learnt our apprenticeship in the shop with our father, Barney,” Paul explains. “To begin with, we were given the responsibility of stock-taking

or prepping sales. After awhile, we were then allowed to work with customers, but helping them to choose items such as ties or shirts only. It was some time before we were allowed to sell suits.” They may have started out slowly, but the brothers have come a long way in the intervening years and now lay claim to being one the country’s leading menswear agents, selling not only the coveted suits, but also some of the biggest international brands from Germany, Holland and Denmark, ranging from formal to casual to outerwear. “Our job is to show the collections in the best possible environment with the best facilities,” Paul says. “We let retailers know what’s coming up: the latest trends and brands; the changes in styles. But, it’s a collaboration: we put together a story, matching the different elements - shirts and knitwear, jackets and trousers,” he adds. “Irish retailers are very astute; they know their market; they know what styles are sought after. There is no point in being anything other than honest. It’s no good if we convince our customers to buy styles that we are not confident will sell. That doesn’t help anyone,” the Dubliner reveals. The siblings are continuously attending shows such as Bread & Butter, Moda, CPD and Panorama

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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but, more importantly, they work closely with the brands themselves, finding the right styles, fits and fabrics for customers in Ireland. “What a guy wears in Spain or Denmark could be entirely different to what a guy wears in Ireland. Similarly, styles or colours can be received differently in various parts of Ireland,” Paul explains. “What’s more, showing the complete ranges in our showrooms removes the need for our customers to travel abroad to attend shows, thereby saving some money as a result. While business in general has improved for independent stores with confidence returning, business is still difficult out here.” In total, Stephen and Paul have three showrooms. Upstairs, Stephen concentrates exclusively on Bugatti, one of the leading brands in the country. Downstairs, Paul houses a carefully selected collection of complementary brands, offering the retailer Sunwill Trousers, Pure and Hatico shirts, S4 and Arma outerwear, as well as Falabella sports jackets and overcoats. The third showroom is the latest expansion and is dedicated to Paul’s newest additions from Denmark. “S/S 14 was our first season with Shine and the response was exceptional. It was our first foray into younger men’s fashion and it allowed us

Paul Lynch

to offer something different to existing customers and work with new ones as well. “Shine is a cool Danish denim and lifestyle collection, which seems set to conquer the Irish market,” Paul believes. The new 1,500 square foot showroom also houses Jacks, which comes from the same stable as Shine, but is geared towards a slightly older fashion-conscious man. This spacious showroom allows the entire collections to be displayed and merchandised, enabling buyers to see all colour and style options available. Recent years have seen many changes to the Irish fashion landscape, something that hasn’t gone unnoticed by Paul. “There are many more promotions and sales throughout the year; shoppers are always on the hunt for a bargain. As a result, many shops want new stock early, ahead of any mid-season sales,” Paul recognises. “In addition, retailers are also looking for brands that offer NOS programmes and back-up stock. Rather than buying in bulk or over committing, retailers can fill in as required - something that helps them with cash flow. We are always adapting to our customers’ needs,” Paul says.

Eakins act as distributors, enabling us to provide a fantastic level of service with nextday deliveries on stock service and stock support,” Paul explains. Having been in the game for so long, the brothers have seen many trends come and go throughout the years, some of which have taken them by surprise. “Quilted jackets and coats were slow to work their way into Ireland having been huge in Europe for years, apart from the niche equestrian market. Now, they’re present at every level, from young to mid to older age brackets, in every brand at every price point. This wasn’t something that I expected,” Paul admits. “But fashion is extremely cyclical. Decades ago, colours like burgundy would have been very popular, then it disappeared and wasn’t seen anywhere. But now, it’s a staple colour in Ireland once again,” Paul claims. With such an impressive past, what can we expect in the future from Lynch Agencies? “Who knows what the future will bring? Obviously, our ambition is to be the best menswear agents in Ireland. Not only do we want to have the best brands for our clients, but we also want to be there for them and deal with any issue that may arise. For now, that’s our main focus,” Paul declares.

Lynch Agencies are also working in partnership with Derek Eakin Ltd. on a Whatever the future may bring, one thing number of brands, such as Sunwill, Shine is clear: that just like Lynch B & Sons, Lynch and Jacks. Agencies will be around for many years to D2_MenswearIreland2014-ARTWORK_Layout 1 14/01/2014 16:24 Page 1 “This is proving to be a great success as come.

www.doubletwo.co.uk

FORMAL SHIRTS

Look Sharp AutumnWinter 2014 See us at: Moda UK, NEC, Birmingham, 16 - 18 February 2014, Hall 20 - Stand MC19 For more details contact: Billy Casey Tel: 01 289 5807 (R.O.I.) Mervyn Boyd Tel: 02891 458655 (N.I.) Head Office: +44 (0)1924 375651 Email: doubletwo@wsg.co.uk

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

eature interview

Let’s Be Perfectly Frank… In an exclusive interview with Futura, Frank Lyman reveals the thinking behind his eponymous fashion label, its international growth and success in Ireland and its exciting plans for the future.

Frank Lyman, the brand, has come a long way in a short period of time. Can you tell us about the company’s background?

We have a design director leading a team of experienced designers, and I am also involved in the direction and fashion aspect of the collections.

The company was founded in 2001 with just three employees and a very short 12 years later, we have over 300 employees.

Congratulations on a highly impressive AW14 collection. Can you describe the key looks and themes for this?

We specialise in ladies’ fashions: dresses, jumpsuits, soft coordinates everything that makes the ladies feel good and look good.

It is clear that this coming season is all about being different. These differences reflect the multiple facets of the 21st century woman and celebrate her personal style. From Paris to New York, from Dublin to London, Milan, and Montréal, Fall 2014 tells the story of refined femininity to edgy sexy.

How has the brand evolved over the years? From nobody knowing us at the start, we have become known internationally for our great styling and our famous fit, which makes the ladies look fabulous. We sell throughout Europe, Canada, the USA, Dubai, Russia, Australia, and many other countries, including, of course, Ireland. How would you describe the Frank Lyman aesthetic? Our look is always of the latest fashions, silhouettes and fabrications. We get emails telling us that when our customers wear our garments they constantly get complimented and they feel great about themselves. And that is our motivation to continue designing for them. The brand is renowned for its ability to keep abreast of trends. How often are new collections released? Six times a year. Who designs the collections?

Fabrics are all about textures, warm sweater knits, and faux-leather. Prints are more tantalising than ever, with numerous engineered designs in vibrant colours that make the garment. Fall is in the air so go ahead, tell your own story! In addition to its main clothing line, Frank Lyman has also branched into perfumes and accessories. Has this been a success? More than we could have ever imagined. We have now developed a new fragrance called Frank Lyman 2 and the reaction is fabulous. The same holds true for the accessories. Who is the target customer for Frank Lyman? There is no age target; age is a thing of the past. Every woman looks 20 years younger today than her actual age and if you want to look your best, wear Frank Lyman Design.

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Frank Lyman

The brand offers a commendable range of sizes - from UK size 4 through to 24 - throughout its collections. Has this paid dividends? Yes, because of our international distribution it has proven to be very successful. What brands does Frank Lyman see as its competitors? Everyone is a competitor, but no specific brands. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t focus on the competition; we just work extremely hard on bettering our product for our retailers. When was the brand launched on the Irish market and how has it been received? We launched the collection in Ireland in 2004 knowing how fashion conscious Irish women are,

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and our Irish sales have grown ever since. Fashion Developments, the Irish agent for Frank Lyman, anticipates strong further growth for the brand in Ireland. Are you equally optimistic? Absolutely. We work closely with our agents and customers and we are very optimistic about the retail future in Ireland. What can we look forward to from Frank Lyman in 2014? We are in the process of building a new corporate office in MontrĂŠal, Canada on 16500 square meters, which will be ready in May 2014. This will enable us to better serve all our customers by improving our facilities with state-of the-art equipment and new technologies.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

brands watching

brand watch

worth

Here at Futura, we’re constantly scouring the market for new and exciting collections, or even established labels that have managed to pass beneath our radar. In a new addition to the magazine, Brand Watch, we’ve selected a fabulous five that have made a favourable impression and are, we believe, ones to be noted – for all the right reasons.

LABEL: Lila Calypso

LABEL: Rant & Rave

STYLE: Visually diverse, the SS14 collection is inspired by pastel print and vibrant colours, high-quality fabrics, feminine details and playful drapery. Soft, luxurious fabrics are indicative of the label’s high quality.

STYLE: An innovative Irish brand that operate an in-season stock service, Rant & Rave continues to impress with classic pieces that are given a quirky makeover with playful yet sophisticated prints. Key pieces include assorted denims, abstract print tops and summer floral dresses. Colours are typically bold and brave, infusing the garments with a youthful appeal.

TARGET MARKET: The collection offers broad appeal, particularly to stylish ladies seeking elegant and moderately priced occassionwear.

brands watching USP: Colourful, quirky and well-priced designs.

TARGET MARKET: The fashion-conscious, contemporary Irish female. USP: Fashionable designs with a quirky and playful appeal.

FROM: CMR Clothing Ltd.

worth

FROM: Rant & Rave, Monaghan

LABEL: Uttam Boutique

LABEL: Gollehaug

STYLE: An easy-to-wear collection for the modern woman, the label’s clothes – which encompass everything from dresses and jackets to stylish separates - are characterised by attractive prints, such as Oriental designs and ditsy florals. Jackets and knitwear frequently combine to offer a mixand-match collection.

STYLE: Typically diverse, Gollehaug specialises in fashionable yet timeless garments created using high-quality fabrics. Knitwear is a speciality, particularly elegant twinsets which are usually offered in a number of smart styles. Colours tend to be classic rather than statement-making, which results in collections with a broad appeal.

TARGET MARKET: The contemporary woman seeking style and value. USP: Stunning prints on assorted pieces.

TARGET MARKET: Style-aware ladies aged 30+. USP: Covetable garments that are fashionable yet unlikely to date.

AGENT: Michael Cloney

AGENT: Mark Carlisle Fashions

LABEL: Rino & Pelle STYLE: A dynamic Dutch brand for both the menswear and ladieswear markets, Rino & Pelle creates modern outerwear, accessories and garments for every occasion. Classic styles with beautiful detailing appeal to stylish men and women while fashionable and on-trend garments cater to the younger market. Price points

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are particularly attractive, retailing between €99 to €199. TARGET MARKET: Confident, styleaware individuals that want to create their own, unique look. USP: Excellent fits, luxurious fabrics and materials and timeless designs. AGENT: John Kennedy

style files - ladies

style filesladieswear the need-to-know on the key collections

LABEL: Daisy May KEY LOOKS/PIECES: Available from GB Agencies, the popular Irish brand showcases another strong collection of pretty dresses with matching jackets and coats. Garments look and feel designer and directional but, crucially, come in at an accessible price. COLOUR PALETTE: Bright colours alongside quirky prints give the collection an attractive aesthetic.

LABEL: Darling KEY LOOKS/PIECES: Ultra feminine, vintageinspired and quintessentially ‘English’, Darling offers affordable luxury product with an emphasis on quality and attention to detail. The new collection, which is now showing at GB Agencies at Fashion City, boasts a host of stylish garments with fashionable vintage looks and subtle design details. COLOUR PALETTE: A diverse palette takes in everything from pretty feminine shades and pastels to on-trend seasonal black, navy and brown.

LABEL: Double Two KEY LOOKS/PIECES: A strong AW14 collection of shirts and blouses showcasing attractive details, pure cotton fabrics, pretty floral prints and a range of flattering fits. Designs extend from work shirts through to casual weekend blouses, all in a wide range of colours and in styles ranging from small classic checks and larger tartans. COLOUR PALETTE: Delightfully varied – striking combinations of blues and purples feature prominently while mix-and-match fabrics feature pretty checks and floral combinations in various flattering shades of peach and mauve.

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style files - ladies LABEL: Magee Overview: A impressive collection created from numerous influences and trends, including the geometric shapes and strong colours from the 80’s pop era to the romantic paintings of Paul Henry, and characterised by luxury fabrics and intense, luminous colours in elegant, timeless styles. An extensive coat range features short, long fits, loose and neat fits, some with half-belts, other with Nehru collars. Jackets, meanwhile, apear in both classic and fashion fits in Nehru neck styles, mock-riding jacket styles, blazer styles, morning coat-inspired styles and kneelength, waist-hugging styles. LABEL: NYDJ (Not Your Daughter’s Jeans) KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The original slimming jeans brand from Los Angeles, NYDJ’s denim range boasts a vast range of jeans style, each of which features the brand’s signature Lift Tuck Technology that slims from within to make women look and feel a size smaller. Having evolved into a lifestyle brand, the AW14 range includes a collection of effortlessly chic tops and jackets. COLOUR PALETTE: Colours run the gamut from pretty feminine shades to darker tones.

LABEL: Rant & Rave KEY LOOKS/PIECES: A strong SS14 collection from the Irish-designed brand. Classic pieces such as print tops and summer floral dresses get a quirky makeover with playful yet sophisticated designs, while jeans are offered in a number of flattering fits. The main collection is complemented by an extensive in-season stock range. COLOUR PALETTE: Bright and uplifting with everything from rich reds and ranges to soothing spring sorbets.

LABEL: YaYa KEY LOOKS/PIECES: Renowned for its comfy knitwear styles and contemporary fashion in tops, jeans, trousers and separates, the Dutch brand delivers another impressive mix-andmatch collection of authentic items. The new range is currently on view at GB Agencies at Fashion City. COLOUR PALETTE: Rich reds, the spectrum of blues, black and white are the mainstay of a colourful collection that features assorted light colours for highlights.

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style files - ladies

Success with MEPHISTO!

Success stories in the footwear industry, Interview with the shoe retailer Claude Steinmetz.

LABEL: Bandolera KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The soft, rounded shape of the cocoon is one of the most important elements of the season. Another highlight is the new fabric innovation: coatings; engineered fabrics; panels; felted looks; 3D effects; bonded and technical touch fabrics all give a younger and casual aesthetic.

Claude Steinmetz, shoe retailer in Strasbourg, is a pioneer among the owners of mono-brand stores.

COLOUR PALETTE: A rich and regal palette that includes blackberry, gold and thyme green.

In 1992, he opened his first MEPHISTO-SHOP in Strasbourg, 18 others have followed since. Here he explains the reasons why he is convinced with the success of the brand MEPHISTO. How many MEPHISTO-SHOPS do you own? Claude Steinmetz: Presently I have 19 MEPHISTO-SHOPS. I am the owner of 4 MEPHISTO-SHOPS only in Paris, 2 in Berlin, 2 in Hamburg… You decided very early on to open a mono-brand store. What was your motivation? C.S.: MEPHISTO is a very strong partner and has a considerable international presence. The MEPHISTO brand is synonymous with trust and stable values. For me MEPHISTO is the ideal partner.

LABEL: Cartise KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The AW14 collection features a multitude of modern silhouettes in bold colours, interesting prints and feminine details, all designed to flatter every figure. COLOUR PALETTE: The range sees Cartise embrace colour and patterns more than ever before, drawing upon some of the season’s hottest hues and designs, from magnificent jewel tones to adventurous animal prints.

What advantages you enjoy by being the owner of MEPHISTO-SHOPS? C.S.: It is clear that the owner of a MEPHISTO-SHOP is a privileged partner and benefits from certain advantages, especially in advertising where MEPHISTO offers great support. But we also benefit from a great re-order program that includes as many as 250 items. Many bestsellers are part of a permanent program. Excellent margins and very small markdowns allow us to realize net profits that are higher than the industry average.

Additionally, I have the opportunity to see very early the new collections and especially the new developments. I am also informed of the new directions for every season. Then give us a small peak into the new fall/winter collection! C.S.: there will be new sport-elegant styles in very high quality refined leathers. The collection is very modern and offers high levels of fit and comfort. F37

MEPHISTO IRELAND - and Contact: Adare in Brands Limited, Tel. +353 86 2014 81 64 003 Futura, Menswear Footwear Ireland | February/March ks@adarebrands.com • www.mephisto.com

brands watching

brand watch

worth

With the menswear market choc-a-block with labels, it’s not always easy to separate the wheat from the chaff. We’re always on the hunt for brands, whether up-and-coming or established, that stand out from the crowd. The following quintet certainly ticks all the boxes.

LABEL: Only & Sons

STYLE: A new, market-driven menswear brand with a strong focus on contemporary fashion and good craftsmanship. From timeless and classic to eccentric and challenging, Only & Son’s collections are varied in look and feel, but always uncomplicated and seamlessly crafted.

TARGET MARKET: With six collections per year, each based on current trends but always with a special focus on the universe of heritage denim, the label offers most appeal to the fashion-conscious youth market. USP: Through a strong mark-up, impressive collections, extensive NOS program and competitive Express program, the label is able to react rapidly to the flow of the markets, meeting every demand on hand.

LABEL: Outrage

STYLE: The Irish-designed label has a contemporary aesthetic that offers particular appeal to the youth market. A trendy denim line provides the mainstay of each collection and is complemented by modern polos and shirting boasting smart detailing. TARGET MARKET: The fashion-conscious aspirational male. USP: Attention to detail is key to the collection; each piece displays a love of fine detail. AGENT: Trevor Chambers

FROM: Bestseller LABEL: A Fish Named Fred STYLE: Having begun as a specialist shirt company, the Amsterdam-based brand has evolved into a full range collection for both men and women that is now sold in 36 countries. Shirts, tees, jackets and accessories typically feature rich colouring and attractive detailing. TARGET MARKET: Men aged 20-40 with a sense of humour and an eye for detail. USP: Unlike many fashion companies, AFNF produces its collection in Europe, rather than in Asia, ensuring short lead times and superb quality. AGENT: Ash Stephenson, Enya Ltd.

LABEL: Marc O’Polo STYLE: Marc O’Polo garments are always produced with focus on natural materials and high quality standards, making them one of the go-to labels for premium casual wear. Collections are characterised by a wealth of detail and timeless yet modern designs. TARGET MARKET: The middle to upper end of the smart-casual market who appreciate style and quality. USP: German quality meets Swedish design heritage. FROM: Marc O’Polo

LABEL: Belika STYLE: Renowned since 1933 for its quality knitwear, the Danish brand has evolved to offer a more extensive menswear offering that encompasses windproof sweatshirts and T-shirts. TARGET MARKET: Men of all ages with a passion for active, outdoor lifestyles.

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USP: With 1,500 active and dedicated distributors all over Europe, the label has its finger on the pulse. It continually receives information about what is happening on the European markets, which enables its designers to continually adjust the collection to ensure it always features the latest colours and patterns. AGENT: Derek Eakin Ltd.

trends - men’s must-haves

Trends: Seasonal ‘MustHave’ Items

ACTIVE PANT Active pants are no longer just for the gym. Indeed, for AW14, they are one of the most important items to help bridge the gap between sporty basics and refined sportswear. Many designers are using jersey or tweed-like fabrics for a tailored silhouette, borrowing design details from classic pants like a button fly, back pockets, and extended tab waists. Elastic cuffs are also a key detail to help maintain a slim and clean-cut look. Other active-influenced designs include quilted nylon and details like snap cuffs and contrasting taping.

Each season throws up its own key fashion items, and AW14 is no different. But what pieces make the grade this time round?

THE PARKA JACKET Popularised by the Mods of the 1970s, the perennially popular parka has been reimagined for AW14 and is likely to continue to play an important role going forward. Available as year round outerwear, the parka stays strong through versatile fabrics, novel surface treatments, and plenty of convertible design details. In addition to technical materials, styles rendered in suiting fabrics make it a new option over tailored clothing - an interesting contrast of sporty and dressy.

BOMBER JACKET Bomber jackets are firmly in the fashion spotlight for AW14, standing out as the go-to outerwear option for all markets. Pieced construction, colour blocking, fur trim, all-over pattern, and superindustrial trim all help make it more than a tried-and-tested basic. Leather and lustrous materials along with flat-quilted surfaces keep it city-ready, while a renewed focus on updated tradition means plenty of tweed and other suiting fabrics come out to play. Silhouettes range from ultra-cropped for a Mod influence to oversized and relaxed.

TECHNO BLAZER With so many active influences carrying over to tailored clothing, an increased use of knit and techno designs are posed to be essential for AW14. Unconstructed bodies, flat-quilted surfaces and details such as contrasting taping, zip-front closures and patch pockets come together for a decidedly sporty approach. As an alternative to the slick and hitech look, a cosy, knit sweater-blazer becomes the new cardigan - a three-season item that easily doubles as outerwear.

CREWNECK SWEATER The crewneck sweater has quickly re-emerged as an essential silhouette for the season after several years of modified basics like the V-neck. As a result of many designers focusing on neo minimalism as a theme. Amongst the crewnecks seen for AW 14, the majority are dense 2x2 ribs, but chunkier knits are also relevant for added dimension. Novelty comes from sweatshirt-inspired details, such as faux V-insets at the collar and contrast striping on the cuffs and waist, as well as pieced construction, tactile-heavy fabrics like mohair, and stretched neck silhouettes for added layering interest.

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

style files - men’s

style files menswear the need-to-know on the key collections

LABEL: CLUB OF GENTS KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The overall theme is the homestead, so fabrics and patterns are warm, rustic, strong and natural. However, modern technology has been given a special place in the designs, with additional pockets for Smartphones and headphones all seamlessly integrated into the garments. COLOUR PALETTE: Colours lean towards earthy browns, rich reds and burnt oranges.

LABEL: BENETTI KEY LOOKS/PIECES: With ultra-competitive prices and extremely attractive margins, Irish brand Benetti – which is available through Gosson Agencies - continues to grow from strength to strength. A comprehensive range of knitwear in 20 different colours, all from stock, is complemented by assorted shirts to match, all in fits suited to the Irish man, as well as numerous jeans and chinos. AW14 also sees the introduction of polo piques in fashion silhouettes with contrast collars/cuff

LABEL: DOUBLE TWO KEY LOOKS/PIECES: A broad range of warm and cosy check design shirts in double-brushed cotton provides the mainstay for casual shirts. Formal designs feature a new, slimmed-down and more flattering fit with slightly less fabric around the body, while the ‘Paradigm’ label features classic and richly-toned stripe designs. COLOUR PALETTE: Casual shirts are based around an attractive palette of blue, red, leaf, gold and plum, while key colours for formal shirts include red, grape, cobalt, raspberry and purple.

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style files - mens

LABEL: ETERNA KEY LOOKS/PIECES: Handsome details, attractive textures and shank patterns as well as visually dynamic surfaces, minimal prints and faux足plains dominate the range, making for a wealth of visual interest. COLOUR PALETTE: Shirts appear in a considerably more modern and vibrantly coloured guise than in recent seasons.

LABEL: JOCKEY KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The new Cotton Stretch series evokes a simple but stylish image for the modern man. The material mix of single jersey in 95% cotton and 5% elastane provides allround comfort for any occasion, while trunks have a high-quality waistband with coloured stripes reflecting the American influence. The USA Originals Collection, meanwhile, combines sporty, masculine looks in the underwear, nightwear and loungewear segment. COLOUR PALETTE: Masculine, wintry colours bursting with on-trend, bold accents with innovative designs and motifs.

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

style files - men’s

LABEL: SKOPES KEY LOOKS/PIECES: The range features an extensive yet commercial mix of on-trend and classic styles. Sports jackets include a modern twist in heritage fabrics including tweed and melton, while trousers include a winter chino and an improved quality corduroy in five colours. Fashion highlights are provided by the Camden coat with knitted shawl collar and two-tone fabrics, and the double-breasted Addington suit, which is made from a grey flannel pure wool. COLOUR PALETTE: Classic seasonal shades are enlivened by rich highlights.

ROY ROBSON KEY LOOKS/PIECES: Collection takes its inspiration from a journey through France in winter. It offers today’s businessman a perfect, contemporary outfit for all situations and climatic conditions – from the city of Paris to the Alps and the rugged coastline of Brittany. Figure-hugging cuts play a greater role in the collections and feature in all segments - suits, sports jackets, shirts, trousers, knitwear and outdoor jackets. colour palette: A diverse palette includes blue, twinned with camel shades for a new twist; brown with royal blue and reds; right the way through to grey, set off with purple and moss green.

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An amazing range of mens and ladies footwear now on view for AW2014

Visit us at our NEW Dublin showrooms at 17 Northern Cross Business Park, Dublin 11. tel 01 834 7481 Aubrey Woolfson 00 353 87 2340349

fax 01 834 7805 David Woolfson 00 353 87 2162935

style files - footwear

style files footwear We bring you the need-to-know on the key collections for AW14 that will ensure you put your best foot forward.

COLLECTION: Coolway OVERVIEW: A collection created for young people with a young spirit, the range combines trendy styles with high-quality designs. Trendy yet fun suede and leather boots are offered in various styles and provide a strong fashion highlight.

COLLECTION: Pitillos OVERVIEW: Comfort, ease and functionality characterise the Spanish shoe specialistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection. Styles are multifarious, offering fashionable yet practical options for ladies of all tastes and ages. Leather uppers and highquality wedges are a mainstay throughout the range.

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style files - footwear

COLLECTION: Legero (ladies’) OVERVIEW: With its latest collection, Legero, one of the pioneers in lightweight shoe technology, is underscoring its position as a trendsetter for the new casual generation. High-quality inner linings, combined with GoreTex technology, guarantee that feet will stay dry and warm during the winter months.

COLLECTION: Legero (men’s) OVERVIEW: Easy urban-casual runners and boots boast ultra-light soles with a non-skid thermoplastic polyurethane finish. Optical highlights include striking lines and stitched details that match the materials and colours, combined with fine suede in a used look as well as sporty smooth leather in greyblue, brown and taupe.

Big responsibility for your feet. Kids can only have fun in sturdy shoes that can keep up with all of their adventures. That’s why, as one of the most successful manufacturers of children’s shoes, Superfit pays so much attention to perfect workmanship and the highest quality materials. We take quality very seriously. Because after all, we take big responsibility for your feet.

MODA – R29

Superfit Ireland Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. • +44 (0)7775 995547 • marcus.baker@legero.at Associate Member 2014

* The result is based on the analysis of 342 returned evaluation forms with the stipulated rating scale: good, average and bad.

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Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

style files - footwear

COLLECTION: Marco Tozzi OVERVIEW: Lace-up boots and shoes continue to be on-trend. Short boots remain indispensable for next season. The new ankle booties join the fashion trend as an important new theme. Pumps also play a major role. Here, toe cleavage is a top trend.

COLLECTION: Mephisto (ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) OVERVIEW: Style combined with comfort sums up the collection. Designs for the active range, Allrounder, are vibrant and trendy with a comfortable fit. All contain the Mephitex breathable lining, which guarantees that footwear remains waterproof yet breathable. Fashionable options abound in the boot range, which includes French designs and soft burnished calf leathers in in rich reds and tan browns.

COLLECTION: Mephisto (menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) OVERVIEW: A strong and extensive collection that sees the introduction of more formal styles featured in the collection. Goodyear-welted shoes ensure craftsmanship while attention to detail remains key.

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style files - footwear

COLLECTION: Panama Jack OVERVIEW: The collection pays homage to an old adventurous spirit and sees the introduction of the extensive Aviator collection, which is inspired by yesterday’s travels combined with today’s design. Bestsellers such as the Panama Boot, Panama 03, Bambina and Felia have been restyled with warm sheepskin lining and oiled leather in black and brown tones.

COLLECTION: s.Oliver OVERVIEW: Flat boots with strong, grip soles form the commercial basis of the collection: biker, engineer and Western boots remain the current fashion themes. Sportiness is again an important keyword and is lived out in sneakers in fun materials and in functional winter boots.

My feet’s favourite shoes.

www.legero.at

LEGeRO AW14 has what feet love – Lightweight. Extremely comfortable. Breathable. GORE-TEX®. LEGeRO! What could be more trendy? The pioneer in lightweight shoe technology is underlining its position as a trendsetter for the new casual generation. Waterproof, breathable and with high-quality inner linings that are guaranteed to keep your feet dry and warm. Because LEGeRO wants to do more. We want our shoes to be like best friends – they never let you down and are up for anything. And that’s what makes them our feet’s favourite shoes.

MODA – R29 Associate Member 2014

Ireland Marcus Baker M.S.S.F. • +44 (0)7775 995547 • marcus.baker@legero.at

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style files - footwear

COLLECTION: Romika OVERVIEW: Top-quality materials, new forms and fashionable colours give the Romika range an innovative look for the colder months without sacrificing the excellent fit and function for which the brand is renowned. New outdoor products include TopDry waterproof boots, which boast a youthful, fashionable appearance. The Davos range provides a highlight here thanks to shimmering technical fabrics with a Nordic-inspired look. Fashionable options include sporty, elegant loafers and shoes in glossy crocodile patent. Boots with TopDryTex membrane and small PU wedges, meanwhile, are pepped up with fur trims and refined metal appliquĂŠs.

COLLECTION: Superfit OVERVIEW: Shoes for all adventures with gorgeous first walkers, sporty runners, fashion high tops, stylish heeled boots, aprĂŠs ski boots and fun slippers in seasonal fashion colours. All styles are offered in sizes 18-43. Also available is a Back to School range for Ireland.

COLLECTION: Tamaris OVERVIEW: An eclectic mix of fashionable footwear takes in everything from chic and elegant to rocky and rugged. Fashionable options abound in cool booties, pointed pumps and a new take on over-knee boots. Black plays the main role, refined with patent leather accents or subtly complemented by dark Bordeaux.

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style files - footwear

COLLECTION: Tatuaggi OVERVIEW: Recognised by their refined design, fine quality and unique finishing, Tatuaggi’s latest collection embrace several types of shoes and boots, from seaside to countryside, from casual to dressy, from innovative eco-friendly to highly technical aviation footwear.

COLLECTION: Camel Active OVERVIEW: Inspired by the culture of the Sami – the last nomadic people of Europe – the AW14 collection features everything from leather welts and contrasting shoelaces to clasps, spat looks and distinctive soles. The ladies’ collection picks up on the styles and looks of men’s footwear,febrero but FOOTWEAR 2014 keeps them resolutely feminine by means of narrower lasts and ladylike features. High-quality materials such as nubuck, smooth leather, waxed cotton, suede and lambswool all feature prominently.

IRLANDA

210 x 149 mm + 5 mm sangre

Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014 Ireland AgentF49JohnnyFutura, Woolfson Mobile: 087 6546000, Email: johnnywoolfson@eircom.net

vox pop - ladies

VOX POP: The Christmas Sales

FALLONS, TUAM, CO. GALWAY JOHN FALLON

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? It was very positive and much stronger than 12 months ago.

When do you go into sales? We went into sale on 27 December.

What sort of discounts were offered? Our initial discount was a 25% reduction, which continued until mid-January. During the latter part of the month, this was increased as we started stock clearing.

HORE’S, WEXFORD, CO. WEXFORD DECLAN HORE

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? It was a great success for us. We experienced a brisk and busy start with queues forming outside on the first day. We sold lots of vouchers in the lead-up to Christmas, so most of these were redeemed in the sales.

When do you go into sales? We went into our sales on 27 December.

What sort of discounts were offered? We offered a 20% discount on specific stock as well as our regular stock.

There was a big interest in our knitwear, outerwear and shirts. Also, customers were very keen to avail of our discounts in our suit department, such as Remus, as well as highend labels like Carl Gross.

Was anything slow to sell? There was nothing specifically; we found there was good consistency throughout.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? There was definitely an uptick this year. We’ve noticed that there is definitely a distinction between customers who shop in our store before Christmas when our stock is at full price, and those who shop postChristmas, during the sales.

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? We had a very successful sale; it was marginally up on last year. The first week was buoyant, the second week dipped a little, but then it picked up again during the third week.

When did you go into sales? We went into sales on 27 December.

What sort of discounts were offered? We started off with 20% then we increased

What were the big successes in the sale? What were the big successes in the sale?

GERARD ANTHONY, CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, CO. ROSCOMMON GERRY FITZGERALD

There was a big interest in suits, jumpers, shirts and jeans, as well as our sportswear and footwear.

Was anything slow to sell? We’re always tailoring to our customers’ needs so; as a result, what we stock is usually very popular. We found that, on account of the mild weather, customers held off from purchasing outerwear this year.

that to 50%. For clearance, we offered 70%

What were the big successes in the sale? Because our winter was so mild, customers held off until the sales to purchase the heavier items such as coats and jackets, such as Bugatti and Gant. Remus and Douglas jackets also did very well.

Was anything slow to sell? The chunky knitwear didn’t take off the

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? We’ve definitely noticed that spending is back up. While customers are cautious, they are not as reluctant to spend as they used to be – they want to spend, particularly if the product is of good quality. This has carried through into post-sales; spring has been extremely busy for us.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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way we anticipated, though we may have overbought in this case.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? The average spend was definitely up. This January, for example, we are 3% up on last year.

Retailers’ reactions to the recent Christmas sales proved surprisingly disparate. While some expressed their satisfaction, others were less pleased. And while some stores waited until after almost a full week after Christmas, others began cutting prices as early as the first week of December. Here, six independent retailers from Galway, Wexford, Roscommon, Tipperary and Mayo share their views, opinions and experiences

JIM MC LOUGHNEY & PART

PADRAIG McHALE,

2 MEN, NENAGH,

CASTLEBAR, CO. MAYO

CO. TIPPERARY

PADRAIG McHALE

DERVAN’S, LOUGHREA, CO. GALWAY GERARD DERVAN

JIM MC LOUGHNEY How would you rate the success of your How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale? All in all, our sales were very good this year.

When do you go into sales? We started on 28 December.

What sort of discounts were offered? We offered 20% off across the board.

Christmas sale? The first few days up until the New Year were good for us.

When do you go into sales?

Our main sellers were suits, knitwear, shirts and casual jackets. In terms of labels, we

We went into sales on 27 December.

What sort of discounts were offered?

saw

consistent

sales

throughout

with casual jackets, slacks and suits being solid. Our knitwear and shirts were also in demand, particularly the Irish brand, André,

Benetti and Casa Moda.

which had its best year for us. Benetti also

Was anything slow to sell?

or our jackets. Maybe this was on account of

Not really, no. We are very selective when it

the weather over the past few months.

comes to stock; as a result, most of our items prove popular.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent

Did customer-spending show any

Christmas sales?

significant change compared to recent

confidence returning.

Reductions of 20% and 25%.

What were the big successes in the sale? Our main sellers were outerwear, knitwear, shirts and ready-made suits. Labels like Benetti and Skopes would spring to mind as being popular.

Was anything slow to sell?

did well.

Was anything slow to sell?

There is definitely an increase with

Our official Christmas sales started on 28 December. Items that weren’t reduced in the lead-up to Christmas, such as underwear and outerwear, were then discounted.

We offered a 30% discount across the board.

had a great response to Gant, State of Art,

There weren’t many takers for our overcoats

We were very happy with them both before and after Christmas. While we didn’t call them ‘sales’ - we offered numerous discounts on selected items throughout December – 20% and 25%.

When do you go into sales?

What were the big successes in the sale? What were the big successes in the sale?

How would you rate the success of your Christmas sale?

Christmas sales? All in all, sales were slightly up on last year.

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In December, we found that clothes catered towards our younger customers were slow to sell, largely on account of the fact that so many have moved away. Then on the days before and after Christmas, when they were home, sales in this area picked up.

Did customer-spending show any significant change compared to recent Christmas sales? In comparison to last year, footfall was definitely up. Customers are spending more but they are still cautious.

Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland | February/March 2014

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