Futura january 2014

January/February 2014

SHOWTALK

The low-down on the key trade fairs

The AW14 Collections Retailers’ Views on Trading in 2013 How the Revamped Clerys rates

www.futuramagazine.ie

Sweet Success: The award-winner Chocolate Clothing

JAC K M U RP H Y AU T U M N / W I N T E R 2 0 1 4

Irresistible Irish Clothing

Make an appointment to view the collection today M: +353 86 8196219 T: +353 18414 200 E: info@jackmurphy.ie www.jackmurphy.ie

contents Welcome to our first issue of 2014.

January/February 2014

With the new year in full swing, we’ve been working hard to bring you a feature-packed issue brimming with all the latest news, views and needto know.

With the grande dame of O’Connell Street, Clerys department store, having recently re-opened for business, following a four-month closure necessitated by flood damage caused by an unseasonal thunderstorm, we attended the grand re-opening to see if it had been worth the wait.

Our verdict? Read all about it on page 12.

Retailers’ views and opinions remain, of course, as important as ever in the fashion industry, so we’ve asked six independent retailers across the country to share their experiences with us. Read the interesting - and encouragingly optimistic - results in our ‘So, How Was It For You?’ feature on page14.

Our fashion focus this issue is on the AW14/15 season which, judging from what we have seen so far, promises to be one to note. The first part of our two-part seasonal preview in Collection Reports can be found on page 16; the concluding section will be in the February/March issue.

Other highlights in this issue include our regular features such as News and Showtalk, which can be found on pages 2 and 9 respectively, as well as a look at the latest developments in the on-going school uniform debate on page 21.

News

2

Showtalk

9

Right as Rain

12

So, How Was It For You

14

Collection Reports

16

School of Thought 21

Enjoy the read and see you next month!

Alexander Fitzgerald, Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie

Sweet Success 222

Winner Takes It All 23

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FUTURA Ireland’s Fashion Business Magazine

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Futura | January/February 2014

news GIFT RETAILER CARRAIG DONN TO CREATE 100 NEW JOBS Carraig Donn, the gifts and clothing chain, is to create 100 new jobs.

This positive news comes as the firm readies itself for the opening of a new outlet in the Jervis Shopping Centre. The new positions will primarily be based there and at the company’s manufacturing plant in Westport, Co. Mayo.

The expansion is planned for 2014 and 2015.

Carraig Donn already employs 450 people, and operates 32 shops nationwide.

PENNEYS TO CREATE 5,000 JOBS WITH 10 NEW STORES Penneys owner Primark says it is to create 5,000 jobs across Europe with the launch of 10 European outlets in the space of a month.

In a statement on 29 November, 2013, the group said that the new stores would create 4,000 permanent and 1,000 temporary jobs. Some 442 of these will be created in the French outlet, which spans 60,000 sq ft. The other store openings include five in Spain and one apiece in the UK, Germany and Austria.

British owner Associated British Foods is determined to speed up the chain’s expansion across northern continental Europe, a market it says remained strong throughout the year.

The firm recently applied for planning permission to transform its Mary Street, Dublin, offices into a state-of-the-art global HQ. The plans propose a 125,000-sqft facility that will house 500 staff.

If planning approval is granted, building work will begin early next year and be completed in 2015.

The development will revamp two sets of offices – one above the Mary Street outlet and one in an adjacent building that the company bought a few years ago, Chapel House on Parnell Street. It includes plans to link the two through a bridge, as well as the construction of what the retailer describes as a “central atrium” and a “glazed courtyard”.

The plans also propose to fill the landmark dome at the Mary Street premises with offices.

FRANK SAUL ANNOUNCES ITS A/W14 COLLECTION The A/W14 collection from leading Knitwear brand Frank Saul features soft earthy and berry tones amongst its new range of jumpers and tops, from rich plum to velvety burgundy cobalt blues through to denim shades and the all-important stark mono black and white.

Soft boucle yarns, marl twist and cross cable knits have been used, as well as metallic jacquards, making the garments perfect for the early autumn cold weather.

The 2014 collection also sees the brand re-working the size grades, offering a more accommodating and complimentary fit for today’s woman.

The brand will showcase the collection at Moda and Pure.

Futura | January/February 2014

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Autumn/Winter 2014 Now showing.

Showing at Pure, London 9th – 11th February, stand J.77 Also showing at Moda 16th – 18th February, stand F.28 Also Visit us at our Showroom.

For an appointment contact Christopher Wren Clothing Company Ltd Christopher Wren House, 43 Fashion CIity, Ballymount, Dublin 24.

t: 00353 1 4295039 f: 00353 1 4295907 m: 00353 87 1226701 e: christopherwren@eircom.net www.christopherwren.ie

news ONLINE SALES SOAR IN IRELAND In their Irish eCommerce Report 2013, eTail Excellence Ireland and eCommerce Europe have reported that online sales in Ireland have reached €4.6billion this year and are forecasted to reach €5.5billion in 2014. Online sales in Europe were worth €400bn in 2013 and are set to increase 20 per cent in 2014.

An estimated 75 per cent of Irish retailers had an online presence in 2013 up from 50 per cent in 2012, which contributes to Ireland being one of the fastest growing eCommerce markets in Europe.

Eurostat also confirmed that 72 per cent of online purchases were made locally - a significant improvement from previous reports.

7.6 per cent of overall retail sales were online, a big improvement on the 6.2 per cent that was reported last year. This share is expected to continue to grow to over 8 per cent due to growing confidence in shopping online.

DUBLINER APPOINTED AS FAÇONNABLE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Façonnable has tapped Daniel Kearns as its new artistic director as it embarks on a repositioning and expansion drive.

The 38-year-old Dublin-born designer recently joined the Nice-based fashion house from Yves Saint Laurent, where he was menwear design director under Stefano Pilati, its previous creative director.

Kearns joins Façonnable – a prominent French lifestyle brand founded on the Riviera in the 1950s - having worked with John Galliano, who recruited the gradu-

ate of London’s Royal College of Art when he launched Galliano’s menwear range in 2002. Three years later, Kearns joined Lee Alexander McQueen to become his design director for his menswear line until McQueen’s death in 2010.

In his new design post, Kearns will reunite with Ludovic Le Gourrièrec, a former YSL executive with a strong track record of jump-starting menswear businesses.

Last July, he was named Façonnable’s new deputy managing director. Kearns had also worked with Le Gourrièrec at Galliano.

US INVESTMENT FIRM ACQUIRES PORTION OF ARNOTTS’ DEBTS Apollo, the US investment firm, has acquired a portion of the loans secured on Arnotts Department Store following a lengthy bidding process, it has been revealed.

With a face value of €230m, the loans have been bought from the liquidators of IBRC, the former Anglo Irish Bank.

In 2010, IBRC and Ulster Bank took control of Arnotts and a portfolio of neighbouring properties when the lenders wrote off a separate €300 million debt in exchange for ownership of the business – pushing out former owners. Anglo Irish Bank is said to control 45 per cent of the business, while Ulster Bank controlled 49.5 per cent.

What Apollo has purchased is a share of the debt taken out by Arnotts’ previous owners to develop the shop and surrounding properties in the Henry Street area in a scheme that was

Futura | January/February 2014

to be known as the Northern Quarter.

The Brown Thomas-owning Weston family and developer Noel Smyth’s Fitzwilliam Finance have already bought the remainder of the debt in a separate deal with Ulster Bank.

these latest developments.

While it is believed that the Westons, a Canadian retail dynasty with strong Irish links, want to run Arnotts under its existing name as a distinct retail brand, rather than rebrand it as a Brown Thomas store, Arnotts current chairman Nigel Blow has expressed his fears for the future direction of the legendary Dublin department store following

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“My duty with the rest of the board is to make sure the outcome is as good as it can be for the company, the staff, the Arnotts brand and its customers,” Mr Blow said.

“I think it’s very important for Ireland that the Arnotts brand keeps going,” he added.

GDS get your ! free eTicket now 12.-14.03.2014 d端sseldorf, germany www.gds-online.com German-Irish Chamber of Industry and Commerce 46 Fitzwilliam Square _ Dublin 2 Tel. +353 (1)64 24 312 _ Fax +353 (1)64 24 399 dusseldorf@german-irish.ie

www.german-irish.ie

news ARNOTTS CHRISTMAS APP LAUNCHED To stand out from the crowd at Christmas, retailers are often forced to generate novel ideas in their quest to get some publicity. And the prize for this season’s most original stunt should be awarded to Arnotts, who allowed 25 Santas to abseil from the 150-year-old building in celebration of their new Christmas gift app.

From 1 December until Christmas Eve, Arnotts offered registered app users hundreds of freebies from brands in-store including Molton Brown, Appleby, Michael Kors, Link of London, Folli Follie, Lancôme, ITSA Bagel and the newly opened Joe’s Coffee House.

On the big day itself, one lucky app user won a shopping spree worth €2,500 in the Arnotts Winter Sale.

Zatori

Littlewoods

CHRISTMAS JUMPER DESIGN AT CENTRE OF DISPUTE Christmas arguments are usually reserved for family reunions, but it seems that two clothing companies are at war with each other over the design of a festive jumper.

Following a high court application, Littlewoods were forced to withdraw one of their jumpers, after Portlaoise-based Zatori Results alleged that the online retailers had infringed one of their designs.

Furthermore, Zatori, which employs 87 people, claims Littlewoods has damaged its seasonal business by allegedly breaching its intellectual property rights in selling a jumper with an almost identical design they first put on the market last year. They have revealed that sales of its seasonal knitwear are down 75 over cent from 12 months ago.

CHRISTMAS SALES SEE 20% INCREASE It really seems that, this year, the festive season is the gift that keeps giving. According to Retail Excellence Ireland, the postChristmas sales, which kicked off on St Stephen’s Day, brought in €1bn for shops and department stores, which translates as a 20 per cent increase on last year: the best result for the sector in six years. This is particularly buoyant news, seeing as December was rather sluggish for the industry.

According to Retail Excellence Ireland, this upturn is due to the fact that Irish customers are now a lot more frugal when it comes to seasonal spending, choosing to wait until the sales to buy instead.

“We have noticed that savvy consumers are willing to postpone fashion, footwear, home and prestige and luxury brand spending into the sales period,” David Fitzsimons of Retail Excellence Ireland says.

It seems that our international friends are also to thank for this increase in end-of-year spending, according to Mr Fitzsimons.

“We have a huge amount of people coming from Asia in particular and many of these customers don’t celebrate Christmas, so the post-Christmas sales are a very attractive bonus to them,” he explains.

Futura | January/February 2014

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www.eterna.de

news COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AND WHO’S NEXT UNITE FOR AW14 Paris and Copenhagen continue collaborating for their A/W editions.

This year, Who’s Next visitors can also enter the Copenhagen Fashion Week fairs, while visitors who register for Copenhagen’s trade shows can, similarly, enter the Parisian event.

The French edition runs January 25 – 28 and is succeeded by the Danish fair one day later on 29 January, continuing until 2 February.

This partnership has multiple aims, including showcasing European unity, while simultaneously developing both events’ international audience.

Visitors only have to register once to access both destinations. This is a first in the world’s fashion trade show sector. This partnership could be extended, in the months to come, to other leading European events in this sector.

NEW AGENTS FOR MIROGLIO Renowned Italian Group, Miroglio, has appointed BLD International Fashion Agency as its new British and Irish sales agent for its brands, Caractère and Elena Miro.

From January this year, BLD will re-launch the two brands from their showrooms in the heart of London’s fashion district.

The re-launch heralds numerous changes. Caractère lays claim to a new design team who has completely revitalised the label, bringing a contemporary elegance to the brand. Tèr de Caractère, a sportier alternative to Caractère, with a strong emphasis on knitwear, is also going to be introduced.

Meanwhile, Elena Miro, whose collection boasts modern fashions for curvy women, is launching two new labels: White Elena Miro, a sophisticated capsule collection, and For.me Elena Miro, which is a contemporary and innovative line that bridges the gap between curvy and regular sizes.

Elena Miro

Caractére

A WEAR BECOMES FASHION VICTIM A chapter in Irish fashion came to an end on 10 January, 2014, as A Wear, a stalwart of Dublin’s Grafton Street, closed its flagship store following a final sale when all stock was sold off for €10 or less.

Receiver Ken Fennell of Kavanagh Fennell closed A Wear in Galway two days later. He is still trading stores in Dublin’s Liffey Valley, as well as in Blanchardstown and Dundrum Town Centre.

The decline of the Irish fashion retailer has been a long, slow process. At its height, A Wear employed approximately 350 staff in 30 stores around Ireland. It was bought out of receivership in 2012.

Fennell was appointed examiner to the ladieswear retailer in October, 2013, and receiver in November, 2013. Upon his appointment, he mentioned how he hoped to sell it as a going concern.

Futura | January/February 2014

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showtalk

Showtalk FASHION COMING TOGETHER 23-25 FEBRUARY 2014

BUBBLE LONDON 26-27 JANUARY, ISLINGTON

A leading event in the Irish trade show calendar, Fashion Coming Together will be taking place from 23-25 February at Fashion City in Ballymount, Dublin 24.

Children’s trade show, Bubble London, has seen a raft of new brands signing up for the next edition of the show, which will take place at the Business Design Centre, Islington.

The cream of Irish brands – approximately 300 labels from over 60 companies – will be on display and showing their respective collections for AW 2014, as well as their current stock. In addition to a comprehensive selection of ladieswear, menswear, childrenswear and footwear will be shown.

Bringing a splash of colour to proceedings for the first time is Cololo, who will be reviving the classic duffle coat with a series of bright new colour-ways. Other newcomers include children’s trouser specialist Mimo, who is set to unveil its latest winter collection for both boys and girls ranging from six months to six years.

Baby-clothing label Piupia will offer a series of charming and comfortable designs heavily influenced by its founder’s Portuguese routes.

They will join Littlechook, Caracoteen and The Little Tailor, who are all set to debut alongside a cast of Bubble regulars including Rachel Riley, Molo Kids and Ruff & Huddle.

Organic textile label My Little Baby Rock will present its range of activity mattresses and baby accessories, which are inspired by rock and popculture.

WHO’S NEXT 25-28 JANUARY, COPENHAGEN

Brands specialising in gift and beauty products such as Little Bu, Childs Farm and Green People will be joined this season by British label Love Soap, who will present its range of organically produced liquid soaps.

Footwear is covered by brands such as Young Soles London, Emel Shoes, Little Joule, Bobux and Mini Melissa.

Paris and Copenhagen continue collaborating for their A/W editions.

This year, Who’s Next visitors can also enter the Copenhagen Fashion Week fairs, while visitors who register for Copenhagen’s trade shows can, similarly, enter the Parisian event.

Visitors only have to register once to access both destinations. This is a first in the world’s fashion trade show sector. This partnership could be extended, in the months to come, to other leading European events in this sector.

What’s more, Gallery, CIFF and Vision are now collaborating with Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris, the world’s biggest fair located in France.

Visitors with Who’s Next badges can enter CFW fairs as well.

GALLERY DÜSSELDORF 31 JANUARY-3 FEBRUARY, DÜSSELDORF The Gallery Düsseldorf will feature new exhibitor Issey Miyake, who will be showcasing its highcalibre bag collection, Bao Bao. Exhibiting for the first time alongside the Japanese Fashion giant will be Schierholt Sensewear, Sahara, Arrey Kuno, Kusan, Iddi Woman, Ischiko and Rebekka Ruètz.

They will join familiar exhibitors such as Wild, Nör, Crea Concept, Naschbag, Petra Meiren and Rundholz Black Label.

In addition, Gallery Düsseldorf will now include a new segment for eveningwear. The Rheinlandsaal ballroom at the Hilton Hotel will offer exhibitors such as Dynasty, Mikael, Patricia Avendaño, Jätzlau Fashion, Oni, Onik, Ronoche, Marina and Eve Fashion a beautiful setting with its special atmosphere.

The Fashion Blogger Café is added to the event for the first time, while Igedo & Friends, a gettogether for exhibitors, will also take place with journalists and key accounts from the fashion sector participating.

The French edition runs from 25-28 January and is succeeded by the Danish fair one day later on 29 January, continuing until 2 February.

This partnership has multiple aims, including showcasing European unity, while simultaneously developing both events’ international audience.

set to host 2400 exhibiting brands in total.

GALLERY COPENHAGEN 29–31 JANUARY, COPENHAGEN Copenhagen’s Gallery is currently offering guests and visitors numerous benefits when they register for the trade show.

These include free access to several fashion fairs during the Copenhagen Fashion Week (Gallery, CIFF, CIFF Kids and Vision); free trains and shuttles between fairs, from Sweden and from Copenhagen airport; as well as free drinks and dinner for the Gallery Dinner, which takes place on Wednesday 29 January.

Gallery also promises 350 exhibiting brands at their event, while Copenhagen Fashion Week is

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showtalk

PURE LONDON 9-11 FEBRUARY, LONDON The February 2014 edition of Pure London will feature five different sections: Aspire; Agenda; Allure; Spirit; and Footwear & Accessories.

Aspire will see relaxed modern and feminine pieces as weekend staples are mixed with ontrend workwear. Brands already signed-up to exhibit include Darling, Eva Tralala, Gaudi, Ya Ya and Almost Famous.

Agenda will bring together the best in understated sophistication with a mix of cool casual pieces with a distinctive confident edge, combined with fashion-forward hero pieces.

Charli and Josie are just a few of the brands set to showcase their collections in this section.

In Allure, stylish daywear staples will be showcased alongside inspirational evening and occasionwear. Already confirmed are Montique, Michaela Louisa and Eden Rock.

on the Iberian Peninsula takes place from 14-16 February when it will coincide with MercedesBenz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), the grand promotional showcase for Spanish fashion to be held from 14-18 February in Hall 14.1.

Organised by IFEMA, the trade fair – which is the result of combining SIMM and Modacalzado+Iberpiel, the two grand trade events devoted to clothing, footwear and accessories - will be attended by a large number of manufacturers, suppliers and retailers of all kinds of clothing items, shoes and fashion accessories to develop good business relationships with the potential customers.

By exploring new business strategies and opportunities with the exhibitors and also by establishing new business contacts with the potential customers, these manufacturers and suppliers can bring some improvement and advancement in clothing and footwear industries.

Synonymous with directional chic streetwear, Pure London’s Spirit section will continue in its current form incorporating everything from directional to retro style with brands including Forever Unique, Ruby Rocks, Silvian Heach, Bariano and Numph already all on-board.

A host of fresh faces will debut at Moda Footwear this A/W as the show welcomes iconic brands and European success stories to its new season line-up.

Luxurious leathers are set to be a prominent feature across both men’s and women’s design this season.

Iconic British footwear giant Dr Martens will join the February edition of Moda show for the first time to present its full range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear; and will be joined by British brand Cara Wholesale, which will present its range of women’s shoes for everyday wear.

A strong contingent of Spanish labels will also make the journey to Moda for the first time this season. Exporting Spain’s quality leather and traditional shoe making methods, brands including Hispanitas and Luis Gonzalo will be showcasing their interpretations of classic designs and Spanish flair.

Other Spanish newcomers include 24 HRS and ladies’ shoe specialist Marian, which will offer a vast range of elegant and on-trend styles, bringing everything from court shoes to boots to Moda Footwear for the first time.

For the first time at the February 2014 edition of Pure London, Footwear & Accessories will be combined into one carefully edited area revealing the best in must-have fashion footwear and statement accessories from brands such as Sam Ubhi, Fly London, Ruby + Ed and French Connection Footwear.

Pure London recently revealed that awardwinning designer Justin Southgate has been appointed to provide a new creative ambience for the show that is conducive to a focused buying experience across all of the show’s five sections.

MODA FOOTWEAR 16-18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM

Additional brands making their Moda Footwear debut include Sorel, Minnetonka, Blundstone, Elvetik and children’s brand BLUW.

MODA WOMAN 16–18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM For their upcoming edition, Moda Woman will now feature a brand new space dedicated to evening and occasionwear. Moda Noir will see some of the most prolific brands from across evening and occasionwear assemble around a dedicated plaza area, providing a focal point for all things glitz including Carla Ruiz, the experts in female beauty and elegance.

Mon Cheri, John Charles, Linea Raffaelli and Ann Balon are among the leading line-up of brands supporting this specialised area.

MOMAD METROPOLIS 14-16 FEBRUARY, IFEMA CONVENTION & CONGRESS CENTRE, MADRID, SPAIN

Other changes taking place include Moda White’s change of location to the front of the show, where two new brands, Léo Guy and Cristyn & Co., will join industry stalwarts such as Sahara, Elisa Calvaletti and Two Danes.

GDS 12-14 MARCH, DÜSSELDORF For the next edition of GDS, the international event for shoes and accessories, some 800 exhibitors from over 30 countries will be showcasing their wares.

Making its debut here is the long-established shoemaking firm, Rizzolli. T&F Slack Shoemaker London will also be revealing its colourful brogues, while Delle Cose will be presenting its new bag collection.

Following a successful launch in September 2013, when the inaugural Momad Metropolis attracted 17,423 professionals from some 70 different countries, the second staging of the most comprehensive trade showcase for the Clothing, Footwear and Accessories industry

Joining them will be stylish, well-known labels such as Melik/Sergio Paganelli and Rosa Mosa.

Children’s shoes will be represented by exciting European names like Little Mary, Red Rag Develab and Zandbergen

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Futura | January/February 2014

showtalk

Celebrating its 20th edition at GDS is the trendy Design Attack area. Its latest theme is Alpine Rockers’ Barn, which will feature an exciting mix of independent urban and underground fashion set against the backdrop of idyllic Alpine life with a dash of roaring motorbikes and gritty rockers thrown in for good measure!

DÜSSELDORF HALLE 30 · 1.07 DERENDORFER ALLEE 12 CPD 31.01.– 03.02.2014

From July 2014, however, GDS will have a new approach along with a new schedule: 30 July to 1 August 2014.

PREMIÈRE VISION PLURIEL 18-20 FEBRUARY PARC D’EXPOSITIONS DE PARIS NORD, VILLEPINTE

SLIM SHAPE

PUSH UP

Following the highly successful February and September 2013 editions, which attracted 58,000 and nearly 63,000 visitors respectively, Première Vision Pluriel returns to the Parc d’Expositions de Paris Nord from 18-20 February.

Visitors – who span the gamut of buyers, accessory and fashion brand designers and heads of fashion companies – can expect a comprehensive show that will showcase some of the latest collections from a diverse range of exhibitors, including spinners, weavers, accessory makers, design studios, tanners and garment manufacturers.

The February edition will welcome 25 new exhibitors: 15 weavers from Italy, France, Turkey, South Korea, Japan and Portugal; 4 spinners and knitters specialised in creative flatbed knits showing at the dedicated platform Knitwear Solutions, and 6 workshops with exceptional expertise and techniques exhibiting at the exclusive space Maison d’Exceptions.

Further details online at www.premierevision.com

W I N T E R

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Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street · GB - London W1T 1PB Tel.: +44-207-636 4207 · Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk

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Futura | January/February 2014

feature

RI G HT AS RAIN

Like thousands of loyal customers, Futura was eager to see how the new and improved Clerys had turned out, so we popped along to the opening and were delighted to discover that the four-month refurbishment proved to be well worth the wait.

Clerys Department Store, one of the capital’s

At the time, the closure was a devastating

most iconic buildings, had been closed

blow to these punters, not to mention the

since July 2013, following flood damage

suppliers and workers. But, owners seized

caused by an unseasonal thunderstorm.

upon the opportunity to give the Grand

We waited with baited breath for months.

Dame of O’Connell Street a modern make

We questioned if it would open again in

over. Commercial Director, Simon Smith,

time for Christmas. We wondered what

and Brian Jennings of Jennings Design

type of changes would be made. Would the

Studio along with Johnston Shopfitters

charm of the 160-year-old building be kept

worked closely and intensively to re-

in tact? Would there be any new additions

develop and re-imagine the 120,000 square

to its already wide variety of brands and

foot store.

designers?

Speaking in advance of the grand opening,

Well, in late November, our active minds

Dominic Prendergast, Managing Director of

were put at ease. After months of extensive refurbishment,

the

historic

premise

Clerys, said: “As Clerys embarks upon a new Commercial Director, Simon Smith

and exciting era for the million of customers

opened its doors once again amidst great fanfare. The honour

who visit us annually for our unrivalled service, quality and

of cutting the ribbon fell upon Minister for Arts, Heritage and

value, we are confident that the latest additions to our much-

the Gaeltacht, Jimmy Deenihan, who was joined by The Voice

loved fashion, food and lifestyle collections will further enhance

of Ireland coach, Niall Breslin, alongside hundreds of loyal and

our spectacular new surroundings and continue to exceed the

curious customers who had lined up outside.

expectations of our customers.”

Futura | January/February 2014

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Models showing a selection of the latest ladieswear

And confident they should have been. First impressions reveal a store that is brighter, more spacious with less clutter. Look closer, and even an untrained eye will be able to conclude that the team has successfully remained true to the store’s original design, exposing intricate ceiling cornicing and elegant balustrades, while also opening up spacious vistas to reveal the building’s beautiful columns and windows. What’s more, her unique heritage architecture has been blended seamlessly with cutting-edge technology through the skillful use of minimal furbishing and artificial lighting techniques that place a focus on the product, whilst creating a personal, yet

Although updated and modernised, the store’s interior retains many of its original features

inspirational, ambience in the process.

To complement these structural and aesthetic improvements, Clerys has also selected a range of chic, new collections that should further enhance the store’s already-impressive line-up of fashion, food and lifestyle brands.

In terms of supporting homegrown talent, there is a new area dedicated to local fashion called Best of Irish Design, which boasts a wide range of well-known labels such as Avalon, Kate Cooper,

A diverse fashion offering provides a wealth of choice for shoppers

Michael H, Libra, Watercolours, Via Veneto and Personal Choice.

The arrival of over 20 of the world’s hottest fashion labels, including French Connection, Almost Famous, Matthew Williamson, Kenzo and Balmain, offer customers a wonderful and diverse selection of premium luxury at affordable prices. If all this weren’t enough, Italian fashion favourite, United Colors of Benetton, has opened a full concept store with in the newly revamped layout, stocking the latest from their men’s, women’s and children’s wear collections.

Other additions include the arrival of the tech’ giant, Carphone Warehouse, located towards the front of the building. Kitted out

The department store’s distinctive facade remains as elegant as ever

with all the latest gadgets, the outlet will certainly draw in a younger male demographic. What’s more, food lovers can rejoice because the store has also improved on its dining options for customers with the addition of a Thunders Home Bakery & Deli on the lower ground floor.

Tourists, particularly, will also be thankful for the wonderful selection of high-end Irish crystal and jewellery.

Contemporary display fittings by Johnston Shopfitters provide a smart touch

The 160-year old retail emporium has had a turbulent history. In 1916, the building was caught in the crossfire during the Rising. Six years later, world-famous architect, Robert Atkinson, was drafted in put it back on its feet again. With its prime location, Clerys has seen and heard it all, and to celebrate this, a new in-store heritage centre has been introduced.

As expected, the Grand Dame of O’Connell Street has made it through the rain, and is now shining brighter than ever. Long may it continue!

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Futura | January/February 2014

view from the shop floor

So, How Was It For You? HIGH STYLE, VIRGINIA, CO. CAVAN

KIMONO, NEWCASTLE WEST, CO. LIMERICK

JANELLE BOUTIQUE, WATERFORD

PAM TREACEY

AILISH MULLHANE

BREDA POWER

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

We have had a wonderful year. We really attacked the wedding market, and, as a result, we’re 60% ahead in comparison to last year.

We are the only boutique in the Cavan area that stocks occasionwear from the 25 – 30 age bracket. In terms of wedding purchases, we found that customers are willing to spend more on outfits for the summer, rather than the winter.

The year was difficult, particularly on account of the erratic weather – it was 5 degrees in May, for example. As a result, spring and summer were slow but things picked up as we approached September. What was encouraging was that old customers, who we might not have seen in over five years, have started returning, which suggests that people are spending again.

Overall, sales have been up, although we faced many challenges when it came to occasionwear.

Customers want something that they can wear often – even to work, but still dressy enough for a wedding, say. That’s a difficult balance to achieve.

What labels have been successful?

We’ve been delighted with how Darcy, Hunters & Gatherers and Kate Fernly have been doing.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Yes, we dropped Madeline, Ariella and Closet this year.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Yes, Tempest is new to us and it’s doing really well so far.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

We have quite a few new labels coming in, including Marcelino, Matilda Cano, Olimara and new Irish label, Kelly & Hepburn.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Customers want pieces that they can get multiple wears out of. They almost see it as an investment. A few years ago, there was a rising pattern where money-conscious customers were looking for cheaper clothes, sacrificing on quality, but they have since realised that this was a false economy as these garment didn’t last long.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We’ve had such a big success breaking into the wedding market so we’re aiming to expand on that next year. In this regard, we’re renovating in January to facilitate these changes, as well as launching a big marketing campaign and developing our online presence.

Futura | January/February 2014

What labels have been successful?

What labels have been successful?

Goat, made popular by Kate Middleton, has done brilliant business for us this year as has Second Female. In terms of labels for weddings, Fabiana Filippi has been flying off the rails.

Two big sellers for us have been Taifun and Elisa Cavaletti. Gardeur trousers have also been flying off the shelves – customers love their shape and cut, and they are always on-trend.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Are there any labels that you have rested?

We have about 30 to 40 labels in our two stores and we found that a few of them weaned themselves out before we had to drop them.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

We like to keep the store evolving so there will always be a label or two that we’ll discontinue.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Irish designer Róisín Linnane is new and proving extremely popular so far.

Yes, Fee G, Michaela Louisa and Marble knitwear are new to us and all are doing really well.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

Yes. Sfizio will be coming in next season, as will Tucker, whose blouses are extremely versatile, something that proves very attractive to our customers.

Yes, we’re going to take on some ones.

Everything we stock in Janelle has to be exclusive to us in Waterford, so we take that into consideration when looking for new brands.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

More than ever, customers are looking for quality over quantity. They want to be able to wear their purchases on multiple occasions so they will buy two or three key items per season, as opposed to five to 10, like before. And so, the types of outfits that they are drawn to are those that are understated but classic.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Customers really want value for money.

Because of the recession, they have an expectation that everything should be discounted, which, of course is impossible.

They are also much more selective in what they purchase.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

Our big aim is promote our stores online.

Facebook is a wonderful platform for customers to browse our lines.

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Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We’re going to take the focus off occasionwear a little and move towards smart/casual instead.

With a new year just beginning, Futura caught up with six independent retailers to find out their views experiences of 2013 and their plans for the year ahead

FIFTY SEVEN BOUTIQUE, PORTARLINGTON

SIXTY-THREE, NENAGH, CO. TIPPERARY

BLUSH BOUTIQUE, CARNDONAGH, CO. DONEGAL

MARY MILLER

MAJELLA MCLOUGHNEY

KATE MCLOUGHLIN

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

It has been steady throughout the year. It

It’s actually not been too bad. There was a good

While it’s been difficult at times, we’ve found it very enjoyable. We introduced lots of new brands over the past couple of years, so we invested a lot of time getting to know them, matching them to our customers’ needs.

We’ve also stopped pre-ordering and, instead, purchased month to month.

picked up over the summer when the weather improved.

What labels have been successful?

Paco, Lady Laura knitwear, Avalon and Via Veneto have been doing consistently well over the year.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Yes, we’ve rested about three or so, including Olsen.

pick-up around the summer and it’s continued to improve throughout the second half of the year.

What labels have been successful?

Our biggest winner was the Amy Huberman shoe line. Customers have been queuing up for it with footfall increasing as a result. Other brands that have been consistent are Guess

What labels have been successful?

We’ve been really impressed by how well labels like Little Mistress, Darcy, Paper Dolls and Vesper have done.

and Superdry.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Are there any labels that you have rested?

There’s been a few, which is normally the case.

Yes, we’ve taken on price-friendly labels and lines, which is what customers’ are looking for.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

Yes, we’ve brought in Ya Ya and Tempest for the

We are big supporters of Irish labels, so

first time.

we’re hoping to take on some new lines from established designers or introduce new upand-coming designers to our customers for the first time.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

The most obvious change is that customers are simply spending less and less money. They want value and are constantly searching for bargains.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

Yes, Vigros Lounge will be new to us and we have high hopes for it.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Even though customers are forced to be economical with their purchases, we have found that they will still lean towards quality and will spend the additional money as a result.

Not this year. We spent a lot of time sourcing new brands over the past couple of years so we’re very happy with how they’re performing.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Vera Moda is new and has been doing really well for us. Their clothes are affordable, which has resulted in regular and consistent sales over the year.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

No. We’re going to develop labels that we already have instead.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

We have found that social media, such as Facebook, are very popular with our customers.

A huge percentage of our sales have come through online purchases.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

Our main aim is to supply our customers with

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

high quality clothing at affordable prices. This

We plan to improve our merchandise by

means that we have to be on the lookout at all

expanding on what we already stock, as well as

times for new designers and upcoming trends.

taking on new labels for the first time.

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Have you any changes in store for 2014?

Now that we’ve realised that an online presence is really important, we’re going to develop that further.

Futura | January/February 2014

collections

Collection Reports BRAX Inspired by Great Britain, the AW14 features a wealth of check in various guises. It is woven, lasered, overdyed or over-printed with flowers in all areas, and together with stud elements, creates an innovative look with casual Rock ‘n’ Roll attitude.

Real and imitation leathers, animal prints and coatings are used for trousers and denims – materials and effects that harmonise perfectly with the royal punk theme.

Shirts and blouses provide an ideal platforms for tartan’s renaissance in flowing fabrics, and complete the pattern with details such as leather piping and floral trimmings for a sporty-feminine look.

Pullovers are a highlight and are seen in all sorts of designs, such as casual well-being shapes, styles that are long at the back and short at the front, and long shapes.

ETERNA Displaying a love of fine detail, Eterna is kitting its blouses out with exceptional buttons, coloured quilting and selected patches for AW14.

New to the collection are luxuriously soft jerseys for long-sleeved polo tunics and feminine shirts. Slim-­fitting, modern shirt­-blouses feature earthy or vibrantly coloured patches, as well as premium white/ white textures, which are also patched together.

Following the launch of its blazer range in the summer, Eterna is now extending this segment by adding new blazer versions. A premium biker design complements existing print, plain­-coloured and quilted-look blazers.

Futura | January/February 2014

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collections

GOLLÉHAUG A timeless collection showcasing new knitting structures, the finest light jacquards and new twinset designs, the AW range is based around a palette in which colours are less bold than in recent seasons. Neutral tones such as caviar, denim, cappuccino and, in particular, black-and-white dominate the palette alongside brilliant colours such as sorbet, purple blue and anise.

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Mc Cotter Agencies · Chris Curtis · Suite 3, 9-15 Queen Street · Belfast BT1 6EA · +44 2890 327 770 · chris@mccotterandson.co.uk · www.brax.com

Prints on knitwear are a key look for the season while optics with houndstooth provide a fashion highlight. Floral, batik and ornamental also feature in various guises throughout the collection.

Futura | January/February 2014

collections

HAJO A feminine aesthetic pervades the AW14 collection which is characterised by attractive detailing and a strong use of jacquards, prints and intarsia.

Metallic, coloured-coloured light effects and sequins are prevalent in a strong knitwear range where finely knitted fabrics in a mix of viscose and polymide are combined with flowing woven fabrics with alienated animal prints or with fashionable laces.

Material blocking replaces colour blocking in the shirt tange.

Here, patching of different materials is a key for the season.

Fashion highlights include anuimal prints and placed print motifs. Embellishment, meanwhile, comes via sequins, rhinestone elements and decorative quilted seams.

JACK MURPHY Encompassing a selection of exceptional tweed styles, gorgeous knitwear, beautiful waxed styles, stunning quilts, classic shirts and ultra-cosy fleece styles, the AW collection is the epitome of country chic with an inimitably unique twist.

Texture is key for the season with lavish tweeds, luxurious faux sherpa linings, sumptuous faux fur accents and eclectic fabric combinations throughout. The tweed range is particularly impressive, featuring three new tweed fabrics showcased in a variety of key pieces. A fashion highlight, meanwhile, comes via the whimsical Buckley Beagle print, which is a limited edition in-house designed print that is carefully woven throughout the collection.

A fashionable palette inspired by autumnal landscapes features berry tones of wine and red, wintry blues, earthy hues of brown and cream, refreshing greens and, to inject colour, stunning pinks and warming shades of orange.

JACQUES BRITT A comprehensive collection encompassing a wide range of new styles, silhouettes, shirt blouse styles and fashionable tunics, Jacque Britt’s AW offering impresses with its quality and diversity.

Soft-washed prints on cotton or cottonstretch qualities, as well as jacquards, minimal designs, new checks, flannels and structures bring the necessary kick to the casual look.

The three distinct colour themes of the collection are designed in a special way to ensure a harmonious and fluent transition in colour.

Futura | January/February 2014

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collections

LERROS Lerros’ AW collection continues the label’s successful formula of providing high-quality modern ladieswear at competitive price points.

An attractive palette encompasses a host of fashionable autumnal tones and is used in a comprehensive range of sportswear and casualwear aimed at the style-conscious woman.

In addition to the main AW collection, Lerros offers a monthly seasonal offer in its Dublin showroom, allowing for the retailer to avail of market-appropriate ladies’ fashion immediately.

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Futura | January/February 2014

collections

MICHÈLE Less colourful than in recent seasons, the reduction of colour in the AW collection is underlined by new hues with different levels of intensiveness in order to create a new fusion of shades. Black forms the basis and is enhanced by a kaleidoscope of different surface textures. Shades of brown are cool and pure while a range of taupe, earth and putty forms the main focus, accompanied by classic mocha. Earthy shades such as toffee, fawn and camel, meanwhile, create a stylish contrast.

Skirts are particularly diverse this season, appearing in numerous styles and materials, including smooth, neoprene-style fabrics and textured and quilted styles. Narrow skirts with lace and sequin details provide a fashion highlight while the camouflage looks receive a feminine enhancement by alienated shades of blue and green.

Body-hugging silhouettes are, once again, dominant in a trouser collection where ‘hybrid’ shapes are transformed into more formal looks. Contrasting side panels make legs look longer and provide dynamic styling for narrow shapes.

PAUSE CAFÉ Fashionable and elegant, the AW collection has a quiet simplicity that offers an assertive and smart style for any occasion.

Blouses have a pleasing lightness that mixes with the symmetric cuts of the technical fabrics while brilliant, lacquered effects feminise the rock inspiration of faux leathers. Tweed, meanwhile, plays a strong role and is modernised by the addition of metallic accessories.

An impressive knitwear segment utilises assorted shades of red and orange, as well as blue and grey tones, which ensure an elegance of style and modernity.

TONI Toni’s AW collection follows the theme of ‘Mystic Glam Rock’ and, as such, features a wealth of decorative details such as studs, zips, chains and leather appliqués.

Mysterious dark shades are dominant for denimwear where they feature alongside two-coloured double dye finishes and over-dyed garments. Colour is notable elsewhere, particularly in knitwear and tops through the melange shades of grey and beige, as well as wool white. Surfaces, meanwhile, are generally sporty in appearance, with a soft finish, lasered, ‘used’, over-dyed or with additional subtle ‘destroyed’ effects.

Denim is notably strong in the collection and features in various trouser models and in decorated blouses and jackets. The most important silhouette remains the skinny jeans look, combined with a long or bulky top.

Attention to detail is evident in the innovative zip designs, new stitching details, biker elements, elaborate linings and a new label concept.

Futura | January/February 2014

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schoolwear

SCHOOL OF THOUGHT THE SCHOOL UNIFORM DEBATE: TO REFORM OR NOT TO REFORM? Ruairí Quinn, T.D.

on behalf of the Irish School Wear Association, which was formed as a result of these sudden developments, claims that their sector simply will “not survive” should these changes be implemented.

“School uniforms are a vital part of our business and to have a Labour minister attack a home grown industry, and to direct parents to revolt against it, beggars belief,” Ms Grant argues.

On top of that, Ms Grant suggests that Minister Quinn’s proposals simply encourage parents to shop in international chains such as Tesco, Lidl, Aldi and Marks & Spencer’s, thereby shortchanging the Irish economy.

In December 2013, the Minister for Education & Skills, Ruairí Quinn T.D., requested that schools start balloting parents on uniform policies.

According to an official statement released by the Labour Party, this move is aimed at giving parents a much greater say on what uniforms, if any, a school should have and, in turn, address the high costs of educating almost 900,000 Irish pupils and students nationwide.

In their 2013 School Costs Survey, Barnardos, Ireland’s largest independent children’s charity, found parents and guardians currently spend, on average, €95 on uniforms for a senior infant pupil, €120 for a fourth class pupil and more than €250 for a first-year student.

And so, over 4,000 Irish primary and secondary schools have just been issued ballot papers, which will then be sent on to parents to complete. The survey was developed in consultation with the department’s education partners and asks two main questions: Do parents want their school to have a uniform, and, if so, should they be generic or bespoke uniforms.

“Parents are the ones who have to bear the cost of school uniforms so it is only right that they are given a role in deciding the type of uniform they have to pay for,” Minister Quinn says.

“This survey is part of a drive to both reduce the financial burden on families with school-going children, and to give parents a stronger voice in key decisions in schools such as the type of uniforms used,” he continued.

“Parents should be the ones to decide if schools have bespoke uniforms or generic, wear blazers or not or use designer sportswear. This survey aims to let parents have their say,” Minister Quinn explains.

Should parents opt for generic uniforms, they would then be able to ensure the school’s identity is maintained by then sewing or ironing a crest onto the garments.

However, Irish manufacturers of school uniforms are, understandably, up in arms, concerned that their industry will cease to exist if these new proposals come to fruition, putting at risk the livelihoods of hundreds of workers who are employed in the sector.

It is estimated that there are approximately 300 shops countrywide involved in the sale and supply of uniforms to local schools.

Karen Grant from T. Grant Uniforms, and speaking

“This ensures all the taxpayers’ money goes to foreign corporations and out of the country rather than back into the local economy,” Ms Grant mentions.

“Unlike the large multiples, we keep a supply of uniforms all year round allowing parents to spread the purchase over 12 months if they so wish, and restock at Hallowe’en, Christmas or Easter,” Ms Grant states.

Speaking on behalf of Kildare-based Deer Park Schoolwear, Paul Mahon admits that his company has been “dumfounded by many of the comments and agenda of Minister Quinn.”

“Our school jumpers are a completely different quality than those offered by the foreign chain stores. Apart from being made in Ireland, they are made using the highest quality raw materials.

Students will get over two years on average, if not more, from one of our jumpers. You simply can’t compare our product to that offered by chain stores,” Mahon says.

“We supply over 250 independent retailers across Ireland, all of whom offer higher quality school uniforms and year-round service to schools, saving much needed employment in the main streets. This is now at risk. What’s more, it further pushes business to a handful of out-of-town super stores in only the principle towns of Ireland. What the foreign multiples often offer are uniforms of inferior quality, stocked only during a few weeks before September, and, at times, below cost,” Mahon adds.

The School Wear Association is also of the opinion that the numerous benefits and advantages of uniforms, including equality, the improvement of discipline and the promotion of a safe and healthy environment, as well as the reduction of bullying and peer pressure, will be jeopardised should uniforms be removed.

“School is the one place where [students] should be free from the pressure to outperform each other in the fashion stakes. Uniforms level the playing field – no matter your background, no matter your income or your aptitude, uniforms are a visual reminder that all students are just people,” the association stresses.

Jonathan Eakin of Derek Eakin Ltd., the Irish clothing distributor that specialises in school uniforms, school wear and corporate clothing, has seen first hand the pressures young people face when dressing themselves out of school term.

“During her school holidays, my five-year-old niece has a massive dilemma every morning deciding

F21

Karen & Jim Grant what to wear. This can take up to half an hour to match a t-shirt with her skinny jeans. Luckily for her parents, she wears a school uniform reducing the cost of keeping up with fashion trends, time and stress on parents every morning,” Eakin reveals.

Mahon takes umbrage at the content of the ballot paper itself; believing that it falls short of providing parents with the necessary information to allow them to make a balanced decision.

“The recent template ballot sent by the Department is just that: a suggested template. It is now important that retailers liaise with schools and explain the differences,” Mahon reasons.

“Those schools that choose to ballot parents should explain the differences in the product being offered and the service given so they are informed before making their choices.”

According to the Irish School Wear Association, the ballot paper is irresponsible and confusing.

“It asks parents if they want to introduce designer clothes and shoes to schools, if they want to sew crests onto these items, and if they even want a uniform at all. The document is confusing and laid out in a vague and unclear manner, and we are very concerned that parents won’t be expecting it, or know how to answer it,” Ms Grant claims.

The Irish School Wear Association has developed a website and an information leaflet for parents concerning the proposed changes, and urges parents to inform themselves before returning any questionnaire to their school.

Most worryingly, perhaps, is the fact that the suddenness of these proposals means that many school uniform manufacturers and retailers, who are currently carrying a huge level of stock with future production already under way, stand to lose thousands of euros. On account of this, Mahon demands that should the government win out, “any change that is required simply cannot occur until the 2015 School Year.”

However, as it stands, schools are being asked to send the surveys to parents by February to allow Boards of Management the time to consider the results and to make any changes warranted by September 2014.

The Irish School Wear Association is open to all retailers, distributors and manufacturers of uniforms and membership costs €100. For more information, visit their website at www. uniformswork.ie

Futura | January/February 2014

feature

SWEET SUCCESS for Chocolate

Founded in 2007, Chocolate Clothing is currently Northern Ireland’s leading young fashion clothing retailer, offering a mixture of top catwalk-inspired celebrity style and heritage brands. In 2008, the Derry-based company looked to expand to a wider audience and launched their first website (chocolateclothing. co.uk). Three years later, they introduced a new web store. Today, Chocolate Clothing is an online fashion phenomenon, delivering to over 60 countries worldwide. They bring the very best in young fashion products across lines in menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, which are sourced from around the globe and aimed at fashion forward 16-35 year-olds. Futura talked to David Conaghan, the owner:

“Businesses can’t stand still; they have to work and develop their model to suit the ever-changing shopping habits of their young consumers”

How do you maintain the shop’s appeal?

What has been selling well at Chocolate Clothing?

We never stand still; we are always delivering new brands and products. As well as that, we strive to keep things fresh, both in store and online - developing new features for the site and re-merchandising the store’s look constantly.

For womenswear, it is our party dresses; we have a wide range of brands, bringing in new styles every week. In terms of our menswear, we are very big on heritage brands such as Farah Vintage, Lyle & Scott and Fred Perry.

What obstacles have you faced over the years?

What trade shows, if any, do you attend?

Each season, we go to Pure and Jacket Required, both in London.

How do you feel about your recent Draper’s award?

It’s tough out there for so many reasons. The weak economy and the ensuing unemployment have resulted in a lot of our young people leaving Ireland to find work overseas. This, in turn, affects business here.

It was a huge honour to be crowned Multichannel Retailer of the Year at this year’s Drapers Awards. To be sitting alongside some of the biggest names in fashion was fantastic for our company. We did not have a clue until on the night and to hear our name being announced as winner blew us away.

On top of that, people’s disposable income has also been hit over the past few years, so they’re always on the look out for bargains and discounts. This has been a big factor over the years: where we have had to source lower pricepoint collections and provide customers with discounts and offers to encourage sales.

We do our forward-order buys twice a year, but we also purchase on a weekly basis as we do lots of fast-fashion short-order women’s brands.

Recently, the prestigious Draper’s Awards bestowed upon them the Multichannel Retailer of the Year title in recognition of their extraordinary achievements. We caught up with the company’s owner, David Conaghan, to discuss this win, as well as finding out the secrets behind their success

It is definitely a career highlight to be recognised

by Drapers and such influential figures in the fashion industry. And we have, hopefully, put Derry on the map for independent fashion retailing.

Futura | January/February 2014

How has business been in the past year?

Business has been good; we are on course for a further 30 per cent hike in sales.

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How often do you do your buying?

How do you see business going in 2014?

It’s going to be a tough year for everybody again in the fashion retail sector, but businesses can’t stand still; they have to work and develop their model to suit the ever-changing shopping habits of their young consumers.

drapers awards

Seasalt

womenswear brand of the year

Winner Takes It All….

Congratulations to all the winners in

was awarded Premium Fashion Brand of

the recent Drapers Awards 2013, which

the Year in a strong category where the

took place on 20 November, 2013, at Old

shortlist included Barbour, Dat Birger et

Billingsgate in the City of London. The

Mikkelsen and Ted Baker.

black-tie event, which was compered by

Other winners on the night included

Irishman Dara O’Briain, drew an audience

Primark,

of approximately 800 people, including

Retail Business of the Year and added

some of the most renowned names in

International Fashion Retailer of the Year

the UK fashion retail industry, who were

to its haul; and John Lewis, which took

there to share in the celebrations. In a new

home the awards for Department Store

format, the awards concentrated solely on

Business of the Year category and Best

larger fashion retailers and their suppliers

Store Design (for its Exeter branch).

and brands.

which

was

named

Fashion

Peter Ruis, a former buying and brand

Womenswear Brand of the Year Curvy Kate, G-Star RAW, Motel and The Masai Clothing Company were all in the running in the Womenswear Brand of the

director for John Lewis who moved to Jigsaw in September, 2013, was named Fashion Retailing Personality of the Year, while Hobbs scooped the honours in the Fashion Retail Business of the Year (under £125m turnover) category.

Year category but it was ethical lifestyle

Youth fashion store River Island took home

brand Seasalt that scooped top honours.

the Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year award for its collaboration with pop

Young Fashion Brand of the Year Little Mistress was awarded Young Fashion

John Smedley

Simon Carter

Brand of the Year, seeing off strong competition from Farah Vintage, Religion, Glamorous, Vero Moda and Bellfield.

star Rihanna, while online success story Asos was named Fashion Pure-Play Etailer of the Year.

Others claiming awards on the night were Marks & Spencer, which won the Fashion Retailer of the Year - Consumer Choice award; London-based CDI Studio,

In the menswear sector, Simon Carter

which was named Fashion Supplier of the

scooped the award for Menswear Brand

Year; and Executive chairman of Aurora

of the Year, seeing off strong competition

Fashions, Derek Lovelock, who picked up

from G-Star, Ben Sherman, Duck & Cover,

the Lifetime Achievement award following

Lyle & Scott, who were runners-up in

a career that started at C&A more than 40

the category. John Smedley, meanwhile,

years ago.

F23 F23

Futura | January/February 2014

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