JULY 2016
FUTURA SUMMER LOVIN’ THE KEY SS17 COLLECTIONS
BEST IN SHOW
YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE BEST TRADE SHOWS
CUTTING A FINE FIGURE
SUITS YOU, SIR
AHEAD OF THE PACK
SILVER LINING
INTERVIEW WITH MAGEE CHAIRMAN, LYNN TEMPLE
THE KEY SS17 FASHION TRENDS
HOW SUITS ARE SHAPING UP FOR SS17
REMUS UOMO CELEBRATES ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY
SEE US AT MODA GENT 2016 7th – 9th August 2016 NEC, Birmingham Stand N30
THE PERFECT SUIT, FOR EVERY OCCASION KENNEDY & JOSS MIX ’N’ MATCH SUITS NOW IN STOCK
Gosson Agencies ltd, 22 Forbes St, Sir John Rogersons Quay, Dublin 2, T 00353 (0)1 670 6525 E gossonagencies@eircom.net
NEWS
EDITOR’S LETTER
T
he Irish summer may have been and gone but, as far as we’re concerned, the ‘real’ summer starts here, with our new issue, which incorporates Futura, Menswear and Footwear in Ireland. While reports of busy trading, prompted by the recent warm weather, amongst Irish retailers is heartening to hear, the crucial talking point in recent times is the impact of Brexit on the Irish economy and, obviously, further field. It needs little reminding that Britain is our most important trading partner in Europe (and we theirs) by a significant stretch. This prosperous relationship is currently estimated to be worth in the region of a whopping €1.2bn a week, or over €60bn a year. Brexit won’t do away with that, thankfully, but any agreements under EU tenders or rules, for example, will have to be re-examined. And that’s not all…. New trade negotiations may have to take place with UK companies wishing to conduct business in Ireland. This all takes time, needless to say; and while the UK very much wants to do business with us, all indicators suggest that it will now be less smooth. And what are the forecast implications? Well, it’s not exactly uplifting news: the ESRI has warned trade will slump by up to 20pc while Michael Noonan has said it could cost us €3bn between now and 2018 … the same €3bn he had earmarked for our ‘rainy day’ fund. But back to the matter of this bumper issue. Our focus is on the S/S 17 season, which will be carried through to our forthcoming August issue. In addition to the first part of a comprehensive Style File section, in which we preview some of the leading men’s, ladies’ and footwear collections, we’ve compiled trends reports on everything from men’s suits and shirts to the key looks and styles in the ladies’ arena. Elsewhere, we catch up with Lynn Temple, the genial Chairman of Magee, who talks about the Donegal-based label’s growth over the years and how it is celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2016; and Donald Finlay, the Managing Director of Douglas & Grahame, whose Remus Uomo menswear label celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. We’ve also caught up with mother-anddaughter duo, Olive and Sara Forristal, the brains and vision behind Olives Boutique, one of Drogheda’s most popular ladieswear boutiques. Looking ahead to next issue – which has a copy date of 27 July – we’ll continue to place the fashion spotlight on S/S 17, with the concluding part of our round-up of the best collections and key trends in the casual sector. We’ll also be looking at international and national trade events together with a preview on local stockrooms including Fashion City in Dublin’s Ballymount. Enjoy the read!
CONTENTS
2 NEWS
The need-to-know from the fashion sector
12 SUITED & BOOTED
The key trends for S/S 17 men’s suiting
16 SILVER LINING
Interview with Donald Finlay of Douglas & Grahame
18 STARS & STRIPES
The shirt trends making waves for S/S 17
20 SHOWTALK
Previews of the leading trade shows at home and abroad
26 NORTH BY NORTH EAST
How a mother-and-daughter team have created one of Drogheda’s most popular ladieswear boutiques
29 TREND ALERT
How ladieswear is shaping up for S/S 17
34 CUTTING A FINE FIGURE
Interview with Lynn Tenmple, CEO of Magee
36 STYLE FILE
Previews of the S/S 17 collections
Alexander Alexander Fitzgerald Features Editor mail@futuramagazine.ie
published by: Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main St., Rathfarnham, Dublin 14. Tel: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 email: mail@futuramagazine.ie web: www.futuramagazine.ie
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2 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
COVER: Joules S/S 17
NEWS
NEWS CANOPI SLEEVES WINS INVESTMENT FROM DRAGON’S DEN’S GAVIN DUFFY Fashion guru Sandra Walsh, founder of Canopi Creative Ltd., recently had a hugely successful experience on RTE’s popular show, Dragon’s Den, where her ambitious pitch caught the attention of Gavin Duffy of MediaTraining. The original dragon offered an impressive €100,000 investment for 35 percent of her business to fund its expansion into the UK market and Northern Europe as well as scaling up online sales. “When Gavin made his offer of €100,000 for 35 percent of the business,” Walsh recalls, “I had no hesitation in accepting. This company is going places and I know with Gavin’s experience, professional assistance as well as financial support, I will be more than happy with 65 percent of a successful international company with a multi-million turnover in
the near future. “I am absolutely delighted with the outcome and look forward to working with him.” Walsh spotted a niche in the market in 2012 and came up with a unique innovative product Canopi Sleeves, which she designed herself. The entrepreneur is founder of the business, which now produces a range of fashion solutions that can be worn under sleeveless dresses, making the dresses more wearable, covering one’s arms and avoiding the need for a jacket or cardigan. In just four years, the product is being sold in two hundred fashion stores and boutiques throughout Ireland including well-known Brown Thomas, Arnotts, Pamela Scott and Fran and Jane. More recently, Canopi became available in Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Fenwick on Bond Street, London. “Canopi Sleeves has already proven itself in the Irish market and I see significant export potential for it, particularly through online shopping sites where it will be offered as an accessory to sleeveless dresses,” commented Gavin Duffy, investor from the Dragon’s Den. The Munster businesswoman was always destined for a career in fashion. She sold her first fur coat when she was just 13 years old in her parent’s
Tipperary shop to movie star and husband of Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, who was filming Tristan and Isolde in nearby Glen of Aherlow. While Futura erroneously reported in a recent edition that the business was worth in the region of €40 million, if it continues expanding and developing at this pace, such a figure might be in the company’s near future!
the first major initiative for Arnotts since being acquired by Galen Weston’s Selfridges group late last year. Further announcements concerning additional new brands for the Northside store, who recently reported a strong uplift in sales, are expected in the coming months. Commenting on the news, Donald McDonald, Managing Director, Arnotts, said: “We’re delighted to introduce John Lewis own brand Home products to our customers. The new range will enhance Arnotts existing position as the largest and only full line department store in Ireland. We look forward to introducing other exciting new brands
to Arnotts over the coming months.” Christine Kasoulis, Home Buying Director at John Lewis, added: “We’re really pleased to be debuting John Lewis own brand Home and lifestyle products within Arnotts department store in Ireland. This is a great opportunity to bring the John Lewis own brand Home products assortment to our existing customer base in Ireland as well as new customers who are looking for great quality and inspiring products for their home.” According to the Central Statistics Office, some of the most dynamic growth in the retail sector recently is in the homewares market.
Sandra Walsh
JOHN LEWIS SET FOR IRISH LAUNCH AT ARNOTTS Britain’s famed department store John Lewis is finally launching in Ireland as part of an exciting partnership deal with Arnotts. Scheduled for an October unveiling, the upcoming John Lewis section in the Henry Street clothing emporium will span an impressive two floors, which translates to approximately 2,000 square foot of retail space. The exclusive deal will see John Lewis presenting north of 700 products to Irish customers, including many items from their own-brand home and lifestyle range, such as furniture, lighting and kitchenware. The UK chain, which has been keen to secure a presence in the Irish market for some time, was previously linked to a bid to take over Clerys on Dublin’s O’Connell Street when that store went into receivership in 2012. There was also talk of a tenancy in Dundrum Town Centre. Neither of these opportunities transpired. This new collaboration with John Lewis heralds
July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 3
NEWS
6TH SENSE GLOBAL DESIGNS ARRIVES IN NEWBRIDGE
THE MIGHTY PURSES ELLE SPORT LOOKING FINDS NEW IRISH TO APPOINT IRISH AGENT AGENT Elle Sport, the contemporary fitness and active brand and offshoot of the global fashion magazine, is currently on the hunt for an Irish agent. The company, whose unprecedented knowledge of women’s fashion is second to none, is going from strength to strength. Known for creating unparalleled performance styling to inspire and enhance the most demanding of workouts, their popular output consists of beautifully soft drape and refined fabrics, used in feminine, flattering styles to create relaxed and trendy looks. Love Brands UK, based in London, is presently charged with distribution.
DOUGLAS & GRAHAME LTD. ANNOUNCES NEW APPOINTMENT Douglas and Grahame Ltd., one of the UK’s leading brand houses supplying contemporary men’s and boyswear, has announced that Andrew Lowden will join the company as Business Development Director. He was previously Managing Director of Cooneen at Work, a specialist workwear company. Lowden, who has a considerable leadership background in fashion manufacturing and branding from previous roles with a number of companies including Coats Viyella and Glenaden Shirts, will 4 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
The Mighty Purses, the exciting range that fuses fashion and functionality with its simple, sexy and savvy smartphone-charging accessories range, has just named Nuala McGill as its Irish agent. The must-have accessory is the perfect antidote to dying phone batteries, particularly for fashionable women on-the-go. The ideal fusion between fashion and technology, the purse contains a lightweight battery that can fully recharge any Smart device. The Mighty Purses use an Apple Licensed Adapter for iPhones and are the only bags of its kind licensed by Apple. Fortunately, it’s also compatible with all micro-USB Smartphones, including Samsung TM, HTC, BlackBerry, LG and Android.
also become a Board Director overseeing the development of the company’s retail, wholesale and export strategies. Mr Lowden commented: “I am delighted to be joining Douglas & Grahame at an exciting time for the company. I recognise that Douglas & Grahame is one of Northern Ireland’s leading companies and a major force in the menswear sector in both the UK and Ireland. “My previous experience in the fashion sector will, hopefully, prove valuable to the strategic development of the company as it embraces the new multi-channel reality of the fashion business.” Douglas & Grahame, headquartered in Carrickfergus, Co. Antrim, produces clothing under a number of leading menswear brands including Douglas, Remus Uomo, Wellington and Daniel Grahame, as well as school uniforms and boys’
The Whitehall Shopping Centre in Newbridge has received a boost with the recent opening of 6th Sense Global Designs. According to proprietor Dermot Fadden, the 2,400 sq ft store – which stocks everything from high-quality denim, casualwear, knitwear and tailoring to accessories such as shoes, socks and underwear - functions as “a one-stop shop for all independent retailers’ buying needs.” The company has, for over ten years, been producing its own garments using only the highest quality yarns. The result, Fadden mentions, "is clothing that you can be worn, washed and used day-in, day out."
JOAN O’DRISCOLL AGENCIES AND VIRIATO JOIN FORCES Joan O’Driscoll Agencies, who currently represents Lauren Vidal and Micha, has added another highprofile client to her books: Viriato, the popular ladies’ brand, regularly seen in the pages of Vogue, Elle and Marie Claire. Made in Spain since 1959 and consisting mainly of knitwear, Viriato is certain to match its European success in Ireland, thanks to O’Driscoll’s many years of experience.
Andrew Lowden
formal and casual clothing under the 1880 CLUB brand. The company sells through a large network of wholesale customers, along with its own e-commerce site and retail outlets operated under its subsidiary company, Italian Apparel.
CONTACT AND SALES HEADOFFICE GERMANY CASAMODA Heinrich Katt GmbH & Co. KG | GutenbergstraÃ&#x;e 7 | D-26135 Oldenburg | FON +49 (0) 441 2066-0 | www.casamoda.com Threadweave Ltd | John & Christian Lawlor | FON +353 (0) 1 4569333 | john@threadweave.com
NEWS
NEW LADIESWEAR BOUTIQUE FOR DUBLIN 4 A welcome shot of style has recently enlivened the leafy suburb of Donnybrook with the opening of Electra, a new ladieswear boutique whose covetable stock reflects its owner, Sadhbh Fahy’s razor-sharp eye for clothing that marries style with quality. A sleek minimal interior - an expanse of clean lines, white walls and concrete flooring - provides the perfect backdrop to showcase an eclectic and supremely covetable stock that encompasses clothing, accessories, footwear and jewellery from a mix of up-and-coming and established international designers, including A.P.C, Carven and Ginette NY.
RETAILER CALLS FOR INVESTIGATION AFTER FEMALE GANG ROBBERY An owner of a well-known dress rental shop has called for an investigation after her shop was robbed by a group of women. Kara Maher of ‘Frock n Fabulous’ on Exchequer Street, Dublin 2, has spoken out about the incident, which took place on Sunday 22 May, and said she witnessed a group of women stuffing their buggies and tops with her stock. Maher told RTE’s Liveline that six “foreign women” entered her dress shop and took dresses off the rails, putting them into their buggies and up their tops. She posted photos of the culprits on her Facebook page as she explained how “naming and shaming seems to be my only option.” “I had to physically tackle these girls who were robbing dresses, putting them into buggy and up their tops. I tried stopping them at door but they pushed past me. I work so hard at my business. It’s my livelihood yet these girls keep robbing,” Maher wrote. “My business can’t sustain this level of theft.” Another caller, Austin O’Malley of O’Malley Electrical in Charleville, told Liveline presenter Joe Duffy how he had experienced a similar theft in 6 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
NEW FLAGSHIP STORE IN DUBLIN CITY CENTRE FOR MAGEE To coincide with its 150th anniversary, iconic Irish fashion brand Magee has opened a flagship store on Dublin’s South Anne Street. Spanning two floors, with 2,206 sq feet at street level and 1,614 sq feet overhead, the new premises at 21-26 South Anne Street replaces the Wicklow Street premises from which Magee had been trading since 2003. The ground floor of the new store carries classic menswear along with suiting for business and occasion wear, including the stylish yet affordable Essentials Suit Collection and the popular Heritage Suit Collection. Overhead, the first floor features an extensive range of womenswear alongside the Magee Accessory Collection, which includes bags, scarves and pashminas, along with cushions, throws and a candle collection.
his shop. “A woman walked into the shop and she put her hand on an electric iron. She lifted her skirt and put the box under and attached it to something under her skirt and then she just walked out the door. “She sailed out the door without a bother. I was looking on but what could I do. She had it under her skirt,” Austin recalled. “The manner in which she was dressed would suggest that she was of a particular ethnic I suppose. “She was in the shop I’d say for 10 or 12 seconds I’d say. It was very quick, she was very good at it and sure what could I do, I couldn’t approach her.” “It was educational. I was shocked how she made it look so easy. I’m sure stuff was stolen from the shop before but I had never seen it,” he said. “For €20 would you be bothered taking that risk? The risk doesn’t come near logic.” Una O’Reilly, the owner of Allicano dress shop on South William Street in Dublin city centre, also shared a similar experience. “Last Saturday the exact same group came into my shop,” O’Reilly said. She said that she looked at the photos that Kara Maher had uploaded on Facebook and saw that it was the same group who tried to steal
Established in 1866, originally as a small drapers shop in Donegal buying and selling hand-woven tweed, the Magee of today is a fourth-generation family-run business. It is steadily garnering a reputation as a luxury lifestyle brand, designing and creating men and women’s apparel and accessories, and since 2013, a range of stunning home accessories.
from her store. “I have them on camera and I looked at photos that (Kara) put up on Facebook, they’re exactly the same as the photo,” O’Reilly said. She added how she refused to let the women out of the shop and blocked their exit. “They’re not Irish. A group of four of them came in and they had pockets built into their skirt because I could see them and they were trying to get the clothes in and I said I don’t have what you’re looking for,” said O’Reilly. “They weren’t scared, they were in there for the long haul but I wouldn’t let them out. I work too hard. I design and make the clothes. I work 18 hours a day, there’s no way they were getting past me.” “It’s very stressful. They don’t seem to care because nothing happens to them.”
NEWS
PURE LONDON TO SHOWCASE YOUNGFASHION DESIGNER COLLECTIONS Pure London will add to its already impressive range of British brands for July 2016 with all-new trends showcased across an eclectic range of British womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories. British brands continue to grow for the show as a direct response to feedback from UK and international buyers, which indicated a strong desire for both home-grown and new collections at the show. Among the confirmed line-up is Glamorous, based in Manchester, with the brand expected to showcase a strong set of modern designs inspired by high catwalk fashion, contemporary night culture and vintage. The menswear section will also welcome young British brand Bench. Founded in 1989, Bench offers fashionable yet functional lifestyle clothing with a unique approach to design. Recently collaborating
with Brit-Award winners Rudimental, Bench is set to bring a strong fashion vibe to the show in July. Adding to the offering will be handbag brand, Bell&fox. Created by Brighton-based designer Sarah Edwards, the collection consists of contemporary, luxurious leather handbags and accessories designed with a British spirit. British Women’s footwear brand, Cara, will showcase their distinct style and heritage roots, following the success of the S/S’16 show. The combination of European aesthetic and artisan design is the foundation of the brand, making the shoes unique. Emily and Fin will also showcase its S/S 17 collection, named The Wanderlust Collection. Overall, a plethora of strong names for 2016 will be on offer to buyers at Pure London with inspiring collections from the finest in British designers. Those already confirmed include Brakeburn,
EARLIER DATELINE SET FOR MINI MODA Mini Moda will build upon the success of its new-look February edition with a strengthened presence when it returns this season. Following a positive reaction from the trade, the children’s footwear show will maintain its new, more prominent position within Moda Footwear, and has also moved to a new earlier dateline in line with industry feedback. Taking place on 7 - 9 August, Mini Moda is now around a week earlier than usual this season. The news has been welcomed by industry professionals, and has resulted in early commitments from flagship labels Lelli Kelly, Xti Kids, Petasil, Ricosta, Pepino, Bo-Bell and Bobux. Mini Moda will also benefit from a summer makeover, including a refreshed colour scheme and new features. The developments are testament 8 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Butterfly Twists, Olia Jewellery, Noi Collection, Mi-Pac, Louche London, Joes Jungle, Goddiva Ltd, Dr Denim, Acai Active Wear and much more. Julie Driscoll, portfolio director for Pure London at i2i Events Group, commented: “We understand the importance for buyers to see newness each year, as well as our strong British regulars. We are extremely excited to be welcoming these unique and creative designs, inspirational and one-off pieces at the show.” Pure London will take place from 24 - 26 July 2016 at Kensington Olympia, London.
PRIME RETAIL RENTS ON THE RISE IN DUBLIN
to the increased relevance of the event, which continues to attract both dedicated childrenswear buyers and those buying across the apparel, adult footwear and children’s footwear sectors. “The most recent edition of the show seemed so much more buoyant in general,” says Victor Russell, owner of Russell’s of Omagh in Co. Tyrone. “We liked the new layout and were impressed with the fact that footwear was across a bigger area this time around. “We saw the brands we needed to see and were inspired to place orders on new collections during our time at the show, so it was certainly a worthwhile few days for us.” Mini Moda will continue to add to its roster of brands in the lead up to the August edition.
As a result of an improving retail industry, the rental market is finding much to cheer about with prime rents in areas like Henry Street increasing by 14 per cent. According to CBRE, the uptick in the economy is leading to high demand throughout the country for premises and shops in strong locations around the country. “This trend first materialised in Dublin but during the last year has become evident in other prime high streets and shopping centres around the country,” CBRE says. Demand is coming from both indigenous occupiers and new entrants to the market. However, it seems that the lion’s share of this demand is focused in Dublin with provincial locations paling in comparison. The biggest challenge facing the sector is the dearth of retail units on prime high streets, shopping centres and retail schemes throughout the country, leading to further increases in rents in key locations such as Grafton Street and, in particular, the aforementioned Henry Street. Prime Zone A rents on Dublin’s Grafton Street which first began to rise in 2015 - have increased 4 per cent year-on-year to €5,700 per square metre.
SPRING COLLECTION 2 0 17
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OLYMP Bezner KG · Höpfigheimer Straße 19 · 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen · GERMANY Telefon +49 7142 592- 0 · Fax +49 7142 592-19 · mail@olymp.com · www.olymp.com
NEWS
GEOX APPOINTS IRISH REPRESENTATIVES
OLYMP LAUNCHES NEW PRODUCT LINE With its new line, Olymp No. Six Super Slim, the leading shirt manufacturer is set to showcase another product for figure-conscious, athletic and stylish men. “As a declared product specialist, we are constantly endeavouring to meet the changing demands of the market for precise-fitting clothing in the best possible way,” says Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp Bezner KG. “With the initial delivery for the 2016 autumn season now underway, the new product will be an integral part of not only the four annual fashion collections but also the basic product range.” The highly tapered, slim-fit business shirt, Olymp No. Six Super Slim has largely the same product characteristics as the already launched Olymp Level Five Body Fit. The most noticeable difference from the body fit cut is to be found in the waist size, which has been reduced by another six centimetres compared to a shirt of the same size. Hence, a super slim shirt in collar size 39/40 centimetres measures only 92 centimetres around the waist. The stylishly tapered silhouette enhances the physique of the sports-oriented target group. The material is also made of high-quality comfort stretch fabric consisting of 97 percent cotton and 3 percent XLA fibres. In addition, the shirt is shaperetaining and very easy to iron. “Olymp No. Six Super Slim, as an innovative business shirt, shows off the V-shape of well-toned men perfectly. With its new proportions, the formfitting shirt has a narrow waist but still leaves plenty of room in the upper body for powerful shoulders. “Our aim is to develop a further target group and a new sales segment,” Mark Bezner reveals.
Geox, the Italian specialist for breathable technology, has appointed Partners in Fashion as their apparel division representative for the UK and Republic of Ireland. The focus is placing the brand with leading independent retailers in the women’s and menswear sectors. “Our brief is to introduce Geox to independent retailers in the UK and Republic of Ireland,” reports Monika Bartscht, Director. “We are very impressed with this modern, up-to-the-minute product, the contemporary design and great functionality. The brand’s Italian styling suits many lifestyles and appeals to a very wide audience. “There are exciting marketing opportunities to work with this brand and stockists will benefit from the GEOX excellent service package and their latest UK and European advertising campaign. Good stock back-up and support services are available. “We’ve already had a very good start for W’16, opening accounts with a number of well-known retailers,” Bartscht adds. “This innovative and desirable brand will be a valuable addition to many retailer portfolios. We’re looking forward to working with an increasing number of stockists.” Internationally recognised, Geox has started a major UK advertising campaign to raise brand awareness, including billboards, train stations,
taxis and national magazines, highlighting the remarkably successful breathable shoes in combination with the striking apparel collection. All adverts feature GEOX trainers, especially their latest success story, Nebula, together with outdoor clothing for men and women.
RETAIL EXCELLENCE IRELAND (REI) WELCOMES FIRST EVER RETAIL INDUSTRY SPOKESPERSON Ireland’s largest retail industry representative body has welcomed the appointment of Ciaran Lynch as the Labour Party Retail Industry spokesperson. Commenting on the news, Retail Excellence Ireland CEO David Fitzsimons said: “The appointment of Ciaran Lynch as the Labour Party retail spokesperson is a very welcome development. Retail does not enjoy the level of political support it deserves considering it is the largest industry in Ireland employing over 280,000 people. “We hope that other political parties will take note and make similar appointments. Knowing Ciaran personally for many years, I am very
confident that Ciaran fully understands the issues afflicting our industry and is a great appointment by the Labour Party. We look forward to working with Ciaran in his new role”. Established in 1995, Retail Excellence Ireland is owned by the members, for the members. It boasts over 1,650 leading retail companies who operate more than 13,000 stores in Ireland. REI is by far the largest retail industry body in Ireland. July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 9
NEWS
WORTMANN GROUP DEVELOPS MARCO TOZZI INTO AN END CONSUMER BRAND INDITEX CONTINUES WORLD DOMINATION Inditex, the world’s biggest clothing retailer, overcame gloomy forecasts recently by posting a 6 per cent rise in profits. These strong sales owed a tip of the hat to fast turnover, which allowed the fashion dynasty to react quickly to unseasonable weather. Net profits for the three months to April 30 stood at €554 million, trouncing a Reuters forecast of €541 million. These positive results had a knock-on effect for
active customer base, which jumped 34 percent to more than four million people. However, it appears that investors were hoping for more success as Boohoo’s share price fell 3.7 percent on the open market.
Following the example of Tamaris, the Detmold company group, Wortmann, has decided to develop the strong specialist trade brand Marco Tozzi into an end consumer brand starting with the S/S 17 season. The awareness level of Marco Tozzi shall be considerably increased with an additional advertising budget of several million euro for the long-term campaign in Germany, beginning in spring 2017. Wortmann CEO Jens Beining: “Marco Tozzi has been able to achieve exceptional growth in the past seasons due to the strong collection performance. We are convinced that we can make better use of the brand’s potential on the German footwear market by increasing brand awareness. We will, therefore, be able to offer retailers another strong end consumer brand with Marco Tozzi.” Marco Tozzi has already been independent for many years and its brand profile will, therefore, continue to differentiate itself clearly from the other brands of the Wortmann Group. The first consequential step is a complete re-launch of the brand. The first national end consumer campaign will clearly express the independent profile. The concepts currently submitted by the creative agencies involved are already convincingly pointing towards the new, unmistakable and emotional presentation of the brand. As part of the national increase in awareness for Marco Tozzi, the aim is to achieve a unique position in the segment of ladies’ fashion shoes. “With this individual and distinctive campaign, we want to communicate differently and sustainably, and pick up end consumers where they are today,” says Jens Beining.
will not be disclosed. N&L Global Player Business GmbH has been a part of the Steilmann Group since 2004. The company focuses on supplying large discount retailers with female, male and children’s fashion/ sportswear. HKG Garment Solutions has taken over the business and the 20 employees of N&L Global Player Business GmbH. Nienhaus & Lotz Global Player Business GmbH, alongside other group subsidiaries, filed for insolvency on 6 April 2016, in the aftermath of the insolvency filing of the parent company Steilmann SE at the end of March 2016. Several parallel investor processes for the various subsidiaries of the Steilmann Group are currently underway, many in advanced stages. “Following the successful start with Nienhaus and Lotz Global Player Business GmbH, I remain
optimistic that further positive solutions for the future of the group will be imminently finalised,” said Dr Frank Kebekus, the preliminary administrator for both Steilmann SE and its parent the Steilmann Holding GmbH. “We are conducting promising negotiations for both Steilmann fashion and discount arms. Current investor interest surpasses my initial expectations.”
its shares, which boasted a 3.2 percent increase, outperforming its Swedish rival, H&M. Inditex, owner of Zara and Massimo Dutti amongst many others, is known for taking the upcoming trends from the runway and making them available in stores in a matter of days and is resisting the prevailing industry trend of weak demand. Sales of lingerie-inspired dresses, oversize shirts and other items from Zara also helped push sales across the group’s brands by 15 percent in the first weeks of the second quarter. Additionally, the company reports that its complete portfolio of brands will have an online presence in all European countries by the year’s end.
BOOHOO CELEBRATES SOARING PROFITS Boohoo, the popular fashion e-tailer, has reported a sizeable jump in profits and revenues for the year ending 29 February 2016. Thanks to the brand’s continuing global growth, its revenues experienced an impressive 40 percent uptick, reaching £195 million STG, with gross profits seeing a 33 per cent hike, which translates to £112m. Profit before tax was up 42 percent. Another impressive result was the growth of its
STEILMANN SE SUCCESSFULLY DISPOSES OF ASSETS The sale of the first subsidiary of the Steilmann SE has been finalised against the wider context of securing new investor structures for the Steilmann fashion group. Administrator Dr Frank Kebekus has sold the Nienhaus and Lotz Global Player Business GmbH, Gelsenkirchen to HKG Garment Solution GmbH, Hünxe through an asset deal. All parties have agreed that the conditions of the transaction 10 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
NEWS
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT O U R D U B L I N S H O W R O O M , FA S H I O N C I T Y P L E A S E C O N TA C T: N I A M H D O N N E L LY T: 07580 993642 11 Futura Magazine | May/June 2016
E : TRADE@JOULES.COM July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 11
TRENDS: MEN’S SUITS S/S 17
SUITED
&
Summer suiting for S/S 17 doesn’t break any boundaries yet impresses with its quality and variety. An emphasis on both form (discrete detailing) and function (comfortable, breathable fabrics) ensures that the average suit-wearer will look and feel good. Skopes
BOOTED
While plain fabrics are predominant, a rise in the number of checks is notable. Equally significant is the prevalence of the double-breasted option. Although still decidedly niche, this dapper alternative to single-breasted jacket makes a welcome addition for the season. Colour-wise, meanwhile, blue – in a dizzying array of tones - still edges ahead by a neck, seeing off keen competition from the perennially popular grey and, in a nod to the warm weather, seasonal shades such as beige, cream and ecru. Benetti
Digel
Baumler
Benvenuto Black
Roy Robson
Carl Gross
12 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Atelier Torino
Digel
bugatti-fashion.com
PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
STEPHEN LYNCH, 62A LOWER CAMDEN STREET, DUBLIN 2, IRELAND, MOBILE: +353 (0) 87 256 5706, EMAIL: STEPHEN@LYNCHAGENCIES.COM
TRENDS: MEN’S SUITS S/S 17
Bugatti
Digel Move
Carl Gross Black Line
Benetti
Benetti
Carl Gross
Skopes
Baumler
Roy Robson
Benvenuto
14 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
TRENDS: MEN’S SUITS SS17
For appointments contact Christine at Gosson Agencies 01 6706525 or Natasha at 090 6438937.
www.benettimenswear.com
July 2016 | Futura Magazine 15
INTERVIEW
SILVER LINING As Remus Uomo, the flagship brand in the Douglas & Grahame portfolio, celebrates its silver anniversary, company MD Donald Finlay reflects on the label’s growth over the past 25 years, the key decisions that have facilitated its success and what hopes he has for its future.
16 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
INTERVIEW
Congratulations on reaching Remus Uomo’s 25th anniversary. What do you believe have been the key factors behind the brand’s growth and success in a crowded and highly competitive menswear market? If I had to select one thing I’d probably say the key factor has been innovation and imagination. We saw the opportunity for a more fashion-led brand in the marketplace and took inspiration from the very fashionable Italian fabric houses and ateliers we were seeing on our regular buying trips to Florence. The Remus Uomo offering was something genuinely different for the market in the UK and Ireland and the Italian inspired styling really caught the imagination of our customers. We’ve kept that spirit of innovation and imagination going with the brand, with collections which are constantly evolving, inspired by new trends but maintaining that core sense of Italian ‘cool.’ Have there been any conscious changes in the aesthetic and style of the brand to appeal to a different and/or wider customer-base? As we’re reviewing lookbooks and imagery from the past 25 years in this anniversary year, it’s plain to see that the Remus Uomo look has evolved but that progression has been relatively smooth as the brand has matured and developed along with wider industry trends.
Were there any opportunities, challenges or pivotal decisions that significantly changed the direction of the business over the years? And, if so, how did they impact on the business? As a company we’ve had several changes that could be called “quantum leaps” in regard to their impact on us as a company. In 1978, we moved away from the Belfast city centre wholesale premises, which was the predominant means of buying in those days. We, luckily, had the foresight to see the changes coming for the industry and, while many people questioned the move, it allowed us to refocus our business on a model which I feel was key to our survival. The move allowed us to expand, investing in space to grow our design and production teams, as well as improved showrooms to help better sell our products. In 1991, my brother Richard and I launched Remus Uomo, which has grown to become our flagship brand thanks to the incredible support of our retail customers here and in Great Britain. Our first foray into retail (initially as a partnership with one of our retailers) was another major step forward in 1995. This
What is the culture within the company?
Donald Finlay
Douglas & Grahame is a family-owned and run company and that is one of our key strengths. As well as the continuity of vision this affords us, there is a deep, personal connection here for me, as there is for my brother Richard who was managing director before me and has played the biggest role in the creation and development of the Remus Uomo brand. My son Adam has also been with the company for several years and was recently appointed to the board.
How, if at all, did the downturn in the economy affect the business? standalone Remus Uomo shop in Belfast City Centre allowed us to experience what many of our customers went through on a daily basis and gave us a deeper insight into the whole market. We’ve seen the opportunity to grow our retail operations both through wholly owned stores and working in partnership with our customers on a franchise model which has proven to be very successful. Further growing that retail offering has been an exciting journey and one we’re going to continue on this year. The move into e-commerce was another big step forward. It helped get us ready to deal with the omni-channel future which has become a central part of our strategy for growth. Again, we’re making big steps forward in this regard this year – so 2016/17 will be one of those years we’ll look back on as a “quantum leap” in the future.
What tend to be the best-selling items in the collections? We’re proud of the strong foundations of sharp tailoring we have as a company and it’s true to say that this is an area of exceptional strength for the Remus Uomo brand. However, as lifestyles change, the dividing line between formal and casual is blurring ever further and we’re well placed to answer that need with a strong offering in the smart casual look.
How would you describe the Remus Uomo customer today? As an organisation we’re moving away from trying to pin an age bracket on the Remus Uomo customer - any age of man can look great in Remus Uomo if they have the personal style to carry it off. Our core customer is really spelled out in our brand statement: “men who take a serious attitude to fashion” and we’ve come to understand that our audience is more defined by a certain level of understated, sophisticated style than by a simple age bracket.
We invested significantly in our new customdesigned premises just as the downturn really hit, but we had a strong customer base and some great staff who stood by us during the worst of this difficult trading period. That investment was necessary then and has really paid off for us now as we’re in a very strong position as the sector recovers. We certainly weren’t immune to the downturn but it has made us stronger, leaner and more focused on the future.
Do you believe that the menswear industry today is more competitive than ever? This has always been a very competitive industry and that hasn’t changed. What I would say is that it has certainly become more complex. As trends have changed, so has our market and that pace of change seems to be accelerating. We’ve always had a knack of seeing the shift and being ready for it, which I can only hope continues!
What does the future hold for the company? We’ll be celebrating Remus Uomo’s birthday for the rest of the year and taking the time to say thank you to all of the retailers who have supported us and helped us grow over the past 25 years. While we’re certainly celebrating the history and heritage of the brand, as a company, we’re always looking to the future. We’re currently working through a major market research project looking at all of our brands and we have some exciting developments planned for the coming year. We also have a few projects to announce in the digital sphere which our customers should really feel the benefit of. Finally, we’ve recently been told that Remus Uomo has been shortlisted for Menswear Brand of the Year in the Drapers Independents Awards. Achieving an accolade like this would be magnificent in such a significant year for the brand. July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 17
&
TRENDS: SHIRTS
STARS STRIPES
S/S17 ushers in a host of aesthetically pleasing shirts to suit every age and style. From the perennially popular, understated monochrome classics to more fashionable styles, such as colourful checks and bright stripes, it truly is a season with tremendously diverse appeal. Fits run the gamut, from relaxed and slim-fit to notably tailored, while popular fabrics include cotton, linen and non-iron.
Benetti
Marvelis Casual
Camel Active
Venti
Jacques Britt
Eden Park
Gardeur
Joules
Bugatti
Eterna
18 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Seidensticker
Casamoda
Olymp
TRADE SHOWS
SHOWTALK PURE LONDON WHEN: 24 - 26 July 2016 WHERE: London Olympia Dylan Jones, Editor of GQ, has been confirmed for the S/S 17 edition of Pure London in July, covering all things menswear. Jones will be on the main stage on 25 July, delivering Pure London’s Keynote using his vast experience of menswear and fashion at top consumer title GQ and as Chairman of the British Fashion Council. He will also be attending an invitation-only buyers meeting for a meet-andgreet during the show. Seminars for the forthcoming July show will include detailed insights on the top trends in the industry, guides to buying for S/S 17 success stories and tips on branding, merchandising, e-commerce, social media, brand collaborations, budgeting and international expansion. Elsewhere, WGSN will return to present their trend forecast for S/S 17, sharing perspectives on the key looks, colours, shapes and fabrics that are set to be huge for the seasons ahead. Presented on the Main Stage, the forecast is an essential session for buyers,
GDS WHEN: 26 - 28 July 2016 WHERE: Düsseldorf, Germany Summer trends, new collections, and innovations from the shoe sector will be presented at the next edition of GDS. Three lifestyle worlds, Highstreet, Studio and Pop Up, will showcase international collections as well as offering perfect guidance. The GDS trend programme featuring Trend Spots, Trend Codes, Fashion Shows and Trend Lectures is also set to provide inspirations and all sorts of information for retailers. Elsewhere, the GDS Trend Spots forums will provide invaluable advice for retailers in the footwear and accessories industry. Varied seasonal themes will be presented in exciting installations showing visitors how to simply and effectively stage fashion trends at the POS. The installations will also provide ideas for visual merchandising at the POS that attract attention and whet customers’ appetites for the new fashion. 20 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
stylists and designers, with the key trends being brought to life during the succeeding catwalk show. A trend-led young fashion catwalk will also take place twice a day on the Spirit Catwalk. Other attractions of the three-day show
include the launch of Inside Retail, a retail lab designed for learning and networking events. Seminar content here will be provided by key industry speakers as well as independent retailers, giving buyers insight on how to survive and thrive on the high street.
14 - 15 AUGUST Running concurrently
Save the date for this Autumn’s big buying opportunity. jewellery / fashion accessories / seasonal / giftware / tabletop / home
14-17 AUGUST 2016 / CITYWEST EVENTS CENTRE / DUBLIN Register now at autumngiftfair.com / Sunday to Tuesday: 10am-6pm / Wednesday: 10am-3pm Join us for updates and special promotions:
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TRADE SHOWS
MODA WOMAN & ACCESSORIES
MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR
WHEN: 7 - 9 August 2016 WHERE: NEC Birmingham Moda Woman has revealed a bolstered line-up of brands as new arrivals and returning favourites make an early commitment to the August show. In particular, Moda White – Moda’s platform for contemporary and directional womenswear labels – will welcome a range of new signings, including L’Argentina, La Gauchita, Myrine, Rosalita McGee, White Vanilla, Fuego, Ananke, Pink Planet and Aventures des Toiles. Meanwhile, Toronto label, Picadilly, will launch its new collaborations with leading Canadian designers for the first time at Moda White. Elsewhere in Moda Woman, leading Canadian label Frank Lyman, Orientique Australia and Vilagallo Moshiki will all show at Moda for the first time, while German brand Lebek will make a welcome return following an absence of a few seasons. “We only show in summer, but this season will see us unveil our new Anna Montana collection,” says Ruediger Eitner, Lebek’s export manager. “Anna Montana is a trouser specialist which will appeal to the independent stockists who already love the total look provided by Lebek.” Over in Moda Accessories, meanwhile, new signings include handbag label Bessie London, and renowned scarf specialist Passigatti, which will herald a new phase of development within the UK market with its appearance at the show. Jewellery favourite Dante will also make a welcome return this summer with a new, more highprofile location. Following an absence in February, Dante will return to Moda with a new stand within Moda Woman, highlighting the brand’s wide appeal to both apparel and accessories-specific buyers alike. Spring will also see a renewed focus on the evening, occasion and promwear sector over in Moda Noir. Welcoming back its regulars such as Mascara, Gabriella Sanchez, Dress Code, Linea Raffaelli, Crystal Breeze, Carla Ruiz and Tiffany’s Fashions, Moda Noir will present an unmissable collection of inspirational eveningwear for the spring occasion season. Debutantes within Noir meanwhile will include London label Ariella, which will unveil a range of cocktail dresses and redcarpet showstoppers ahead of the S/S 17 season. This season’s new additions will be showcased as part of Moda’s redefined format following a positive response from the industry earlier this year. Moda’s reorganisation last season saw the introduction of new areas Moda Loves and Moda Edit, both of which will return with an increased presence this time around. 22 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
MODA GENT MODA FOOTWEAR WHEN: 7 - 9 August 2016 WHERE: NEC Birmingham
The forthcoming August edition of Moda Gent will see new additions showcased as part of the show’s redefined format, following a positive response from the industry earlier this year. In particular, the show’s new Outdoor Lifestyle area and recently-developed unisex border were praised by visitors and exhibitors alike, and the new features will build upon their debuts with fresh summer lifestyle identities for the new spring season. The three-day show will welcome a host of new and returning brands amongst its many exhibitors. Iconic label Ben Sherman will make its Moda Gent debut, showcasing its distinctive collection of British heritage design. Other debutantes include newly launched surfwear label Blue Tide, outerwear specialist Rainstar and Trinity Apparel, which will reveal a revolutionary new concept in made-tomeasure tailoring.
WHEN: 7 - 9 August 2016 WHERE: NEC Birmingham Moda’s recent signings will be showcased within the show’s re-organised format, which was praised by exhibitors and visitors alike following its debut last season. Moda Footwear will build upon this success by focusing on the increased presence of its new features such as the Boutique platform, which brings together contemporary women’s shoe brands as a destination concept for fashion buyers across the sectors. Moda will also welcome back leading labels Hush Puppies, Skechers, Tamaris, Rieker, El Naturalista, Ravel, Dr Martens, Barker Shoes, ARA and Dude Shoes. The August show will welcome a sizeable range of new signings including contemporary Spanish footwear label, Arrels Barcelona; New York bridal label, Nina; and leading Danish footwear label, Ecco.
WHEN: 7- 9 August 2016 WHERE: NEC Birmingham Building upon the success of its new-look format earlier this year, Moda Lingerie & Swimwear will maintain its new position within the wider apparel exhibition, focusing on the increased definition of its recently-added features and product categories. Confirmed labels at this upcoming edition include Empreinte, Affinitas, Chantelle, Passionata, Roidal, Rosy of Paris, DKNY Lingerie, Panache, Charnos, Silhouette, Miraclesuit, Lise Charmel, Vanilla and Forever Unique. The August show will witness the launch of Ath-Leisure, an area showcasing a range of clothing and intimate apparel for the active sector. Targeting lingerie and womenswear buyers alike, the section is a reflection of the contemporary consumer demographic seeking apparel for active lifestyles and wellness. Brand new labels Rebeliss and Wild Geese will both launch at Boutique, showcasing inspiring new designs in swimwear and loungewear respectively.
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NEVER BORING... B.D.C. Islington, London, N1 0QH. Sunday 4th - Monday 5th - Tuesday 6th Trade Buyers Only. info@londonedge.com
4-6TH SEPTEMBER 2016 Business Design Centre
Register online for your visitor e-ticket now.
TRADE SHOWS Corona Silver
Absolute Jewellery
Fabulous Felt by Kate Ramsey
Rita Daly Designs
THE AUTUMN GIFT & HOME FAIR WHEN: 14 - 17 August WHERE: Citywest Events Centre, Dublin
The forthcoming Autumn Gift & Home Fair 2016 will take place once again at Citywest Events Centre – which is conveniently located within 20 minutes’ drive from Dublin International Airport and the city centre, and a five-minute drive from Fashion City - where it will start on Sunday 14 August and run for four days until Wednesday 17 August. Opening hours are from 10am – 6pm on the Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, and from 10am – 3pm on the final day of the show, Wednesday 17 August. A unique retail experience, the Fair represents the ideal pre-Christmas buying opportunity for retailers looking for enticing pre-seasonal stock to dazzle their customers.
Jill Graham Jewellery
Hazel Greene Silks
Combining both new and well-established, best-selling brands, the Autumn Gift & Home Fair showcases an exclusive range of the best of Irish and international products. The diverse exhibitor mix will ensure an eclectic selection of beautiful goods and gifts on show, including jewellery, fashion accessories, on-trend scarves and colourful handbags along with other assorted leather goods. The award-winning Corona Silver will be showcasing its new Summer 2016 collection – which features a host of colourful necklaces with Swarovski Crystal and rose gold highlights, as well as chunky pearl necklaces with matching earrings, and an extensive range of bangles – at stand E3 in Citywest. Other brands exhibiting at the August event include Absolute Jewellery, Knight & Day, Shira Designer Jewellery, Love KS Design, Tipperary Crystal Jewellery, Pulse
LONDONEDGE WHEN: 4 - 6 September WHERE: Business Design Centre, Islington, London LondonEdge’s forthcoming September edition finds its strength in its setting. Designed by Joseph Paxton for the Great Exhibition in 1851, the Business Design Centre boasts a beautiful glass ceiling, which will allow plenty of natural light into the venue. 24 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Accessories, Secrid Wallets/ Orbit Key, Eton Watches, Dr. Bear, MC Jewellery, WS Handbags & Bessie Bags and Widdop & Co to mention a few. Accessories, specialists confirmed for the event, meanwhile, include The Kelly Craig Collection, I love Scarves, Eclipse and Erin Knitwear. Visitors to the four-day event will be able to discover innovation at its best in the dedicated ‘Yes, It’s Irish’ pavilion, where there will be opportunities to meet over 80 of leading Irish designers, producers and craftsmen, whose respective designs and creations are 100% Irishmade. These include Elena Brennan Jewellery, Jill Graham Contemporary Jeweller, Mad 4 Hats, Hazel Greene Silks, The Button Studio, Fabulous Felt and Monson Irish Jewellery. For the third year, the Autumn Gift & Home Fair will run concurrently with Jewellery Ireland on Sunday 14 August and Monday 15 August in an adjoining hall at Citywest. Buyers can pre-register online on www. autumngiftfair.com
The multi-levelled space creates the perfect backdrop to the show, allowing the 200+ collections exhibited to be seen by thousands of visitors from all over the world. With a huge percentage of the floor space already allocated, LondonEdge is set to deliver an exciting dynamic to the fashion trade show scene making the September show a key date in the diary for fashion buyers all over the world. Confirmed exhibitors include Delicious Junction, Punky Pins, Extreme Largeness, Sourpuss Clothing and Love Ur Look.
TRADE SHOWS
PANORAMA FASHION PREMIERE MODA BIRMINGHAM CPM MOSKAU CIFF COPENHAGEN HOT I HOT II CPD FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF CRÉATION GROSS GMBH & CO. KG // HOUBIRGSTRASSE 7 // 91217 HERSBRUCK // GERMANY // CARLGROSS.COM July 2016 | Futura Magazine 25 PHONE +353 (0) 1 6 70 65 25 // E-MAIL: J.GOSSON@CARLGROSS.COM
INTERVIEW
NORTH BY NORTH EAST Drogheda, one of the country’s largest and most vibrant towns located in the north east of Ireland, is just a country mile from both Dublin and Belfast, meaning that it is the perfect destination for customers who want a spirited and dynamic shopping experience without having to contend with the long queues, tiresome traffic conditions and ever-increasing parking rates found in cities. One business that appears to be going from strength to strength in Louth’s largest town is Olives Boutique, a popular, family-run business located on the central Dyer Street. Overseen by mother and daughter duo, Olive and Sara Forristal, the clothing emporium prides itself in giving its many loyal customers the personal touch. Futura chatted to Sara recently and discovered the secrets behind the 12-year success of Olives Boutique, as well as finding out a little more about the ever-changing world of fashion.
It wouldn’t happen nowadays, but during primary school, I took a half day every Wednesday to tag along on buying trips. I actually remember Jane in Regine calling a dress Sara after me. It was very funny as it did not sell at all!
Sara, how long have you been in the fashion industry and what drew you to it in the first place?
While it’s hugely important to adapt and adjust to what’s current - both in economical and fashion terms - in reality, this is actually a very difficult thing to do and execute as it’s hard to identify changed spending patterns and styles. And in the boutique industry, even if you do all of that, it can be too late as we order well in
I’ve grown up in the fashion industry – our family has been involved in it for such a long time, so I suppose it was inevitable that I would follow suit, and I love it. 26 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
How long has the store been open? Olives Boutique actually emerged from Sara Boutique in Kells, Co. Meath in the early noughties. As you can tell from the names, we are a mother and daughter team, Olive and Sara, and manage the day-to-day running together. We have been in business now for 12 years. We are very proud of this as much of that time was during the deep recession so we are very optimistic for the future.
You mention the recession. What other obstacles has Olives Boutique faced over the years and how have you overcome them?
advance. So overall, in my opinion, you need a willingness to adapt and change in order to grow.
What does your working day involve? I live in Navan, so it starts by driving over to the boutique armed with my trusted Costa coffee! Each day can be different. For instance, I might initially try to sort out customer orders with suppliers or items in the dressmaker. I think shop merchandising and display is crucially important, so I regularly change the shop around. We always try to build very visually appealing stories and colour palates. When a top or knit is sitting beside a trouser or skirt that matches, this makes it very easy for the customer to choose an outfit. It helps make the overall shopping experience for the customer simple and stress-free, and, hopefully, enjoyable. After all, that’s part of the reason why they come back to a particular store.
What is the profile of your customers, and what would be their average spend? Our customers are cross sectional and diverse. But, to be more specific, I would say that they are discerning ladies of 30 years plus who love fashion and, very importantly, quality. They come to us as they trust what we do.
INTERVIEW I think it’s vital to stay at the pulse of changing fashion and style, and be able to move on with the times. That’s why people come back again and again as they are excited and interested to see what’s new. The average customer spend varies. It is really dependant on a person’s lifestyle. Sara Forristal If there are a spate of family weddings in a particular year, a customer may spend more than they normally would during this period.
Aside from Drogheda, where do your customers come from? Drogheda is situated just off the M1, which is great. So there are many people living in Drogheda and commuting to work in Dublin. It encompasses a large environ from Dundalk, Carrickmacross, Ardee to East/ South Meath and North Dublin including Balbriggan and Swords. Lately we have been enjoying increased numbers of Northern Ireland customers due to the favourable exchange rate and the close proximity to the border.
What labels – Irish and international - do you stock? One of our favourite Irish designers is Liz Quin, formerly Quin and Donnelly. She is supremely talented and uses the best fabrics in the business. Also Fee G is a strong Irish brand for us. We do a mix of national and international brands from smart casual to occasional. Joseph Ribkoff is a very strong Canadian designer, renowned for his quality and classic cut. Bariloche are funky Spanish blazers. Salsa are the most flattering jeans ever invented, and Apanage is a brilliant smart casual German collection.
How is the industry different now from when Olives first started? We opened at the tail end of the boom. Not long after, this was followed by the bust and now we are hoping that things are slowly coming back. Back then, as we all know now, things were excessive. There was an excess of everything including boutiques and none of this was sustainable. To use an example, I would find now looking at the bank transition receipts every evening that the majority of transactions come from debit accounts. Back when we opened, it was largely in the reverse and mainly on credit cards.
How have customers’ spending patterns changed over the years? In the past, customers would have been happy to purchase occasionwear for a wedding or event, knowing that the outfit or item may not be practical to ever wear again. This has changed. Now, they still want the ‘wow factor’ - and naturally it must be gorgeous - but they also want to be able to wear it more than once and know that it may be versatile enough to take them to a few occasions. The same applies to separates and smart/casual outfits. If they are buying a few items, it is important that they can mix and match them rather than having a lot of items that will only go with one specific thing - and this is what we at Olives Boutique do very well. To illustrate, I know a lady who attended a wedding circa 2006, at the height of the boom. At the church, she noticed that the aunt of the bride was wearing her outfit; however, this presented no problem July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 27
Joan O Driscoll Agencies invites you to view the INTERVIEW new Spring/Summer 2017 collections from:
Micha | Lauren Vidal | Viriato
to her - she simply slipped back to the hotel and selected Outfit Number 2! At the wine reception, a guest accidentally spilled a glass of red wine over Outfit Number 2 (which I should mention was cream). This again was no problem, and after a quick change, she remerged in an equally gorgeous Outfit Number 3. I’m using this anecdote to highlight the differences between now and then. The lady had easily purchased four different outfits for just the one occasion. This certainly is not the regular occurrence now and one outfit for a wedding is sufficient - with perhaps one backup, which probably would not be new with tags still on it!
Have Irish women’s tastes changed over the years in terms of style, fit or colour? It actually is always changing. Sometimes, it’s so subtle that you don’t even take notice and other times it’s obvious. This is a very interesting point: how far do you go with trends and how far should you go? Often, trends can lead you down a very high street and low quality road in fact. So, it’s all about finding the right balance, and understanding emerging trends while still always reflecting Olives Boutique’s core brand values, which are quality, effortless style and a certain class.
Have you been surprised by any trends over the years proving popular or unpopular? for appointments please contact Joan. Telephone 00353 87 2664336 E-mail joanmodriscoll2012’gmail.com BELFAST Showing August 3rd; 4th and 5th at Inspire Enterprise Park Dundonald Belfast. DUBLIN Showing August 8th - 25th. at I F C House Fashion City Room 14/15 28 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Currently, I am trying to get my head around culottes. I just find them so unflattering and I honestly don’t understand them, therefore, I can’t really sell them as I’m always honest with customers.
Another grey area for me is the re-emergence of the very wide leg palatso pant. Now, I do like this but I think you need to be tall and wear it with a very high heel or wedge. I also struggle to understand flower prints. I think they can be overkill and swamp a person. I love tailoring, clean lines and great quality. I think this look is very classic and chic and, thankfully, I think this will never go out of vogue.
What, if any, trade shows do you attend? I don’t do a lot of trade shows. With the advancements online, major research can be done from the laptop and then direct appointments can be made with suppliers. We do, however, attend Pure the odd time, and I’m going to go to Milan this year, too.
Is online shopping / social media a part of your business? It is the way forward, and if we want to progress and be an influencer in this field, we must embrace it and move with the times. It is an area in which we are currently putting a great deal of focus on and will, hopefully, find success with in the near future.
What advice would you give to young entrepreneurs and wouldbe retailers trying to crack the market? It is a difficult market to crack, but in saying that, not impossible. Many towns are oversaturated or covered in certain areas, so if you can find a niche somewhere in there, it’s definitely worth pursuing.
In three words, what does the future look like for Olives Boutique? Bright, busy and prosperous!
TRENDS: S/S 17
TREND ALERT:
S/S 17 Ladieswear
SU MM ER 20 17
Every season ushers in its key trends, and S/S 17 is no different. A host of dominant looks – everything from animal prints to cropped trousers – and prevalent colours makes for an aesthetically pleasing selection that should keep fashionistas grinning from ear to ear.
Michèle
Camel Active
Faber
Bugatti
Gardeur
Gollehaug
Seidensticker
Thomas Rath
TOP OF THE CROPS
Cropped pants are having a moment for S/S 17. Flashing some ankle makes a serious seasonal style statement, it seems.
DÜSSELDORF · CPD · HALLE 30 ·1.07 Partners in Fashion Ltd. Chris and Monika Bartscht 16 a Newman Street · GB - London W1T 1PB Tel.: +44-207-636 4207 · Fax: +44-207-436 2243 E-Mail: michele@partnersinfashion.co.uk
July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 29
TRENDS: S/S 17
Gardeur
Eterna
Faber
Hajo
Grechin
Yourconcept
Joules
Seidensticker
PRINTS CHARMING
From pretty floral prints to eye-catching abstracts, prints are taking centre stage this season. The message is clear: be brave, be bold.
Gardeur
Gollehaug
Michèle
Thomas Rath
Seidensticker
Eterna
Alena Akmhadullina
Jacques Britt
ALL WHITE ON THE NIGHT 30 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Hajo
Christian Siriano
Faber
Timeless and ethereal (as well as hard to keep clean), is one of the go-to colours for designers this season. From denimwear to blouses, jackets and tops, it’s clear that everything’s gonna be all white.
Michèle
TRENDS: S/S 17
July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 31
TRENDS: S/S 17
Camel Active
Faber
Gardeur
Thomas Rath
YourConcept
JEAN GENIUS
Denim, that perennial fashion favourite, continues to stay relevant thanks to an ability to evolve season after season. For S/S 17, white denim adds some Euro chic to brighten up an otherwise fairly conventional jean offering that spans the gamut of blue shades. Fits are predominantly slim and tailored.
Faber Eterna
Gollehaug
Joules
YourConcept
Thomas Rath
RIPE FOR STRIPES
Designers are lining up to embrace lines this season, especially in the form of vertical and, in particular, horizontal stripes. An easy way to jazz up an outfit, this trend makes its mark in assorted colours and widths.
ANIMAL INSTINCTS
No Spring/Summer would be complete without a showing of animal prints. Whether in the form or snakeskin or leopard spots, it’s an eye-catching trend that can adopted discretely or daringly – the choice is yours.
32 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | July 2016
Faber
Mephisto
TRENDS: S/S 17
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2017 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT O U R D U B L I N S H O W R O O M , FA S H I O N C I T Y P L E A S E C O N TA C T: N I A M H D O N N E L LY T: 07580 993642
E : TRADE@JOULES.COM July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 33
INTERVIEW
CUTTING A FINE FIGURE Having begun in 1866 in the the current Magee of Donegal shop on the Diamond, in Donegal Town, where it bought and sold handwoven tweed, the Magee of today is a fifth-generation family-run business that has established an enviable reputation around the world as a luxury lifestyle brand. This year, the iconic brand — which designs and creates men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and a range of home accessories — turns 150; and to celebrate, they’ve recently opened a stunning new flagship store in Dublin city centre. Menswear chatted to its current Executive Chairman, Lynn Temple, who shared some of the company’s many secrets to success 34 Futura Magazine | July 2016
Magee’s magnificent endurance can possibly be linked to the history and durability of tweed over the centuries. The weaving of pure virgin wool into a coarse, earthy-hued material made it an instant success within the gentrified circles and has transcended time, taking place as a staple in many a gentleman’s wardrobe. Even today, this magnificent fabric runs strong as a mainstay of Magee’s collection, but often with a radically contemporary twist, which helps bring the product to the attention of a wider – and younger - market. From elegantly contemporary, city-esque overcoats, to fully traditional tweed jackets, to tweed-covered holdalls, Magee’s designs not only hold a celebrated heritage but represent a movement with the times, too. And although renowned for its impeccable tweed, the company’s designs encompass a host of other fabrics, including linens, silks, and lightweight fine wools. Already sold online, and with a standalone store in Donegal and a concession in Arnotts department store, demand for the brand in Dublin encouraged Magee to open a larger premises in one of the city’s premium shopping areas, South Anne Street, to replace the nearby Wicklow Street premises, from which they had traded since 2003. This continued and increasing success of the much-loved company, which currently employs in the region of 130 staff members, most of whom are based in Donegal, is overseen by its current Executive Chairman, Lynn Temple. While he had to follow in the footsteps of his father, when he joined the company in the 1970s, Temple was determined to forge his own identity and come to the brand with new and modern ideas and knowledge. Successfully completing a business degree at Trinity College, Dublin, followed by a postgraduate degree in Clothing Technology in Manchester, Temple went straight into a Magee factory in Scotland making suits, jackets and trousers, full of vim and vigour. “I was always interested in men’s clothing, but when I began in Magee’s in the 1970s, it only made and sold very traditional suits and jackets and I could see, even then, in tailored wear, that the Continentals - Germans and Italians - were sweeping into the UK and Irish markets, and Magee had to up its game to make its offer more contemporary,” he recalls. “To achieve this was an ongoing challenge [as a result of the] conservative management and designers [who were] then in the company.” Having survived Partition, two World Wars and numerous recessions in its 150-year history, Temple believes that there has been a host of pivotal decisions made over the decades, which have contributed to the brand’s survival.
INTERVIEW “This includes everything from momentous moves from handweaving to power weaving in the 70s,” he explains. “Changing from manufacturing heavyweight, conservative suits and jackets to full, contemporary, lifestyle collections and developing the brand accordingly, to expanding retailing in Dublin and on-line.” And today? Who is the average Magee customer? “[Magee Clothing] has made a very conscious policy…to appeal to a younger customer and the age profile now extends from those in their late 20s to unmentionable ages – including mine! “The menswear customer today in Ireland is a person who appreciates colour and is sartorially sensitive to how he or she appears. This can vary from the man who wants an occasion suit in currently fashionable plain blue, check blue or even a smart blue 3-piece tweed suit, of which we sell many to the wedding market, to the businessman who wants a good-quality smart suit for the office, boardroom or the courtroom. “And not forgetting our many customers in the country who select from the Magee collection of jackets – although, obviously, men in the city also buy jackets too! - which are amongst the best in Europe, many made from Magee cloths and, of course, smart casualwear.” In this, their landmark anniversary, it only seems fitting that it is marked by the company with a new store on South Anne Street in Dublin city centre, replacing the Wicklow Street branch that proved to be too small for the full Magee collection, which was recently expanded to incorporate womenswear. “There was no opportunity to expand so we had to seek new premises,” Temple explains. “The new store in South Anne Street has been creatively designed using natural wood and stone to reflect the colour and ruggedness which typifies much of the Magee collections inspired by the sea and landscapes of Donegal. The store design is contemporary and fresh, while retaining strong elements of our heritage. “South Anne Street has been trading strongly since it opened and we are pleased with the initial results. Suits and jackets are still the mainstays of sales but knitwear, shirts, trousers and womenswear are all gaining traction.” This growth marks a distinct contrast from eight years ago, when Magee, like everybody else, was hit by the catastrophic crash in the Irish economy. In order to survive, the company literally had to cut its coat according to its cloth with reductions in all costs, manpower and remuneration. “We have survived that period and are now benefitting from the improved Irish economy, though many of the smaller rural towns are still finding trading difficult,” Temple mentions.
Magee’s new store on South Anne Street
“The current Brexit uncertainty, now at the time of writing, is a major issue in the UK, which is affecting trade, and no doubt we are going to experience a difficult time in the next few months. Suffice to say that with over half of our sales in the UK market, it is a concern at present. However there are some postives to take from this – in that we buy a considerable amount of yarn and cloth in the UK – if the euro strengthens againist the pound we will benefit in this area. “It’s hard to know – we are entering uncharted waters and there will be a period of time before the UK actually exits the EU. Until then, despite consumer confidence being somewhat shaky, we must crack on – we still provide a superb product and are aiming to grow the brand further in the UK. Like many Irish brands and companies the UK is a key market. “The menswear industry has always been competitive.” Temple continues. “However, the dominance of the multiples, who now almost totally monopolise all the major city and town centres in the UK, are also developing rapidly in the bigger conurbations in Ireland at the expense of the independent, which has been the backbone of the Magee trade. This is an ongoing and major challenge. “Magee is a niche business, in its weaving, clothing and retailing, and with ongoing innovation in design and effective selling, we believe we can overcome the ever-present competitive threats.” Reflecting on their magnificent heritage, it would seem an arduous task to select highlights, but it is clear that Temple prides himself in the integrity that is part and parcel of the prestigious brand’s operations. “Magee has always tried to operate with absolute integrity, offering garments, which are of
(From L-R) Charlotte, Patrick and Lynn Temple
the best possible quality, not cheap but value for money,” he says. “As a family, we have high principles of open and fair dealing with all stakeholders in the company - employees, suppliers and customers.” Even though he hit the ground running upon entering the business some forty odd years ago, Temple confesses to having one or two regrets. “With hindsight, I am sorry that I did not go off and work in another clothing company, which I didn’t, apart from working as a student in retailing in California and, separately, Yorkshire, with a spell in a Yorkshire woollen mill. “I also regret that with my love of physical activities, I didn’t take time out and do a few major trans-globe cycling or Arctic walking expeditions – crossing Donegal from South to North on a compass bearing or East to West isn’t quite the same!” While the genial Temple still has ample time to venture towards the North Pole, Menswear wagers that not even for the world itself would the businessman change the fact that he now has two of his children working with him side by side. “I am very fortunate to have Charlotte, our eldest daughter, [working with us]. After being commissioned and doing four years in the Irish Army, [she came] into Magee eight years ago and is now Retail and Design Director,” he proudly mentions. “[My] son, Patrick, who graduated as a Civil Engineer and worked in the alternative energy sector for a number of years, is now responsible for Magee Clothing Wholesale and Weaving.” It certainly seems that the Temples are cut from the same cloth and that Magees will be a family affair for quite some time - possibly even another 150 years. July 2016 | Futura | Menswear in Ireland 35
STYLE FILE
COLLECTION REPORTS S/S17
BENETTI Ireland’s Benetti continues to grow at a rapid rate nationwide. The official sponsors of Dublin GAA football and hurling, the Ballymahon-based company is enjoying success both on and off the football pitch. “Our business model is based on giving the customer exactly what they want,” says Jonathan Gosson. “An Irish fit for an Irish man in superior quality fabrics at an affordable price.” The new Benetti range offers luxurious textured fabrics with subtle designs coupled with statement pieces of sharp up-tothe-minute silhouettes. Categories include suits, jackets, knitwear, shirts and footwear. “Our target for 2016 was to use better quality materials in our choice of design but to still maintain a price structure that represented real value for money,” says Barry Conlon.
36 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
STYLE FILE
BUGATTI
BRUHL
Bugatti’s suit collection for S/S17 has fashioned itself on the need for men to feel good in day-to-day situations. Flexibility, lightness and a smart, modern, all-day look reign supreme. One of the characteristics of the collection is that the jackets and suits come with Bugatti’s Flexcity interior technology. In terms of shirts, the by-word is now comfort. Fashion highlights are the items in jersey or piqué. For the trousers, the company finds its inspiration in Spain, boasting reduced, paler colours with soft yellow, pale blue, summer Bordeaux and iced green with hints of blue. The entire Bugatti coat collection revolves around a combination of modernity and comfort, made possible by the use of Flexcity. A wide variety of outer fabrics such as faux solid colours woven in multi-colours, restrained mini prints in a technical cotton mix or rubberised rainwear styles achieve a new, fresh look. In the leisure collection, Flexcity is deftly utilised once more, resulting in a slim silhouette together with high-performance stretch in both the outer fabric and the lining. Earthy cotton mixes get the season off to a good start, and lightas-a-feather high-tech qualities are the perfect travelling companion for summer days.
Following a successful 2015, and after Maro Nachtrab was appointed as the sole Managing Director at the beginning of January, Bruhl is continuing to develop two of its hero collections, Brühl Fine Trousers and Brühl Bros. What’s more, the company is adapting their output to match conditions in each market they serve. In the case of Brühl Fine Trousers, comfort meets function and feeling. The silhouettes in the mainstream are still lean without being too tight. The range of fabrics are impressive and feature highstretch effects. With regards to Brühl Bros., this season’s key points are light-weight articles made of fine‐ threaded yarns, in twills, structures or in denim; mini‐structures; and coloured woven fabrics with structure, along with overdyed items.
38 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
STYLE FILE
CARL GROSS Carl Gross’ premium Black Line collection enters its second year and for S/S 17, the company’s business-focused portfolio will be extended. Notably, the modern Sharp-Fit silhouette will be expanded by a suit with flap and ticket pockets, and an additional jacket version with two patch pockets. The more commercially-styled, modern-fit output, implemented in terms of a two-button single-row jacket, remains unchanged. Sartorial details coupled with exquisite finishes are the calling card of Black Line. Features including upmarket serge linings, inlays and underarm shields in the suits, jackets and coats, and perfectly tailored side slits reign supreme. Another essential field of expertise in the Black Line collection continue to be the renowned Italian weavers and their hand-picked fabrics. Elsewhere, for the oncoming season, the Modern Business brand will be offered in three clearly defined outfit packages – Modern Traveller, Casual and Summertime.
CASAMODA Casamoda’s S/S 17 range is all about Australia! The season kicks off with Sydney, and this collection is awash with blue and natural colours in various shades. Second up is Dorrigo National Park. Here, flamingo red and aqua blue are combined with the natural colours of nature. The third delivery is entitled Gold Coast – Surfers’ Paradise, which marries the relaxed beach feeling and the pulsating metropolis found on Australia’s Gold coast. Last, but by no means least, the fourth delivery will offer a glimpse of the second order round of Summer ’17 at Berlin’s Panorama. Here the focus will be on a summer linen concept. A highlight overall is the sports shirts, which continue to be casual, fashionable and innovative. Alongside the bestselling, multi-coloured check, accents are also set by half-tone prints, background check, a new plain Oxford and match stripes.
CG - CLUB OF GENTS
DIGEL
For S/S 17, Club of Gents is expanding its range of fits by another silhouette and is launching an ExtraSlim-Fit model on the market. Here, bi-stretch and natural stretch fabrics ensure the freedom of movement required. Equally significant, proportions are changing. Jackets - two-button, narrow lapel - are slightly longer again, giving the entire silhouette a new, slim touch. The matching trousers are narrow, but not clinging to the legs. The Extra-Slim-Fit is offered in masculine black and deep blue. As of S/S 17, the brand’s CG – Club of Gents will be launching a new fashion module system, comprising of so-called core packages, which entail central products, patterns and shades. A curated assortment from ready-to-wear garments to sportswear, down to complementary items, composed of three colour themes - are scheduled for three delivery dates.
Keywords for the new Digel collection are fresh and bright. Silhouettes continue to be slim but never tight. One of the new arrivals is the slim-fit polo shirt with a stitched cutaway collar. The main focus is on exclusive materials, in particular, jersey fabric. Partially or fully deconstructed jackets stand out this season. Stripes are at the forefront of design while there is a strong nod to maritime influences. Also set to prove popular with customers are the design accents, which link individual items, making them ideal for mixing and matching.
40 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
DIGEL.DE We would like to thank Gerry Hollingsworth for his loyalty and hard work in promoting Digel in Ireland during these years, and wish him well in the future.
We are pleased to announce that Julian Ensor has taken over from Gerry since July 1st. His contact details are:
JULIAN ENSOR Phone: 087 2 589343 Email: julian.ensor@gmail.com
STYLE FILE
DIGEL MOVE
EDEN PARK
Digel Move is a collection that superbly marries active and formal wear, resulting in dressed-up athleisure looks. Shorter cuts and slimmer fits sit side-by-side with more casual suits in relaxed cuts. There are looser cuts in the trousers where the trend towards new silhouettes can be seen most clearly. Key words here are stripes, pleats, geometric patterns with the waistcoat being a key piece in the collection. The two main colours themes are neo-dandy – grey, black and white, accented by the likes of plum violet and mango – and energising active colours, such as navy, blue and reddish orange.
The Parisian company has produced an S/S 17 collection designed around travel. This season, the Club line is heading off for South Africa. This collection offers an apparent simplicity and perfect cutting: it is a collection aimed at a stylish man with a traditional look, who is sensitive to the quality of material and details. For the City line, the brand is offering a fluid, refined range, a new definition of male elegance in the Eden Park tradition. Quality materials, unstructured cuts, simple lines of the jackets, over-jackets, padded waistcoat, shirts, worn over loose trousers, all facilitate a stylish and relaxed look. Colours are natural in the beige, brown, grey, khaki green and blue monochromes. Denim becomes a very strong theme with new shapes and new textures. For the beach, prints have re-appeared, with the floral, jacquard, military theme, emphasised in all the products: shirts, polo shirts, T-shirts, windcheaters and swimming trunks.
ETERNA New colours and fresh looks are the hallmarks of Eterna’s S/S 17 collection with stripes and checks creating the distinctive look of the season. Eterna starts off the spring season with Urban Pastels, a range that is awash with fresh colours such as mint, caramel café, and, in particular, lavender, leading to a stylish look, especially for businessmen. Shirts in the Smart Gatsby offering evoke true gentlemanly qualities. New colour variations in the Gentle Sea output make the well-known maritime theme look young and fresh. Bright royal blue, intensive poppy red and cyan are the basis for a radiant, colourful look. The Exit: Beach range is the perfect summer shirt with short sleeves in pistachio, macchiato, rosé and blue. Outsized graphic prints meet check variations and structured monochrome fabrics.
42 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
HAJO The polo and sportswear collection for Hajo’s upcoming order season is influenced by the design and trend metropolis of Amsterdam. The three themes of the polo and sportswear collection - consisting of 120 pieces - stand for the attitude to life of this city. Firstly, Straat, the urban theme, is dominated by turquoise, with a supplement of dark blue and shades of grey and black. Secondly, the Gracht theme is based on the navy triad of navy blue, white and red. Important are light blue and orange as well as khaki as a trendy addition. Lastly, for beachwear, inspiration is found in the lounge bar on the city beach Zuid. Trendy colours such as raspberry, eucalyptus and a shade of slate, dominate.
IRL Office: 6th Sense Global Designs, Linenhall Street, Castlebar, Co. Mayo. Tel: +353 (0) 94-9060555 www.6thsense.ie
UK Office: Double H Agency, 137 Essex Road, N1 2Sn, London. Tel: +44 (0) 203 432 6387 www.6thsense.ie
STYLE FILE
JOULES
OLYMP
For S/S 17, Joules is celebrating all that spring and summer entails with a range designed to help you enjoy the great outdoors or relaxed indoors in style, no matter what the weather. Joules’ signature approach to the season returns, tailoring two capsules ensuring you have the perfect ‘wear it now’ pieces for the unpredictable British weather. Worth mentioning are the nautical influences, which are subtly infused into the range through horizontal striping, a wonderful palette of blue tones and some great sought after bright pops that bring fun and vibrancy to the range. Highlights include the 5-pocket trousers stylish cotton in great new colours with the classic five pocket design - and the Woody, the muchloved polo in classic and slim fit, which is back in new seasonal colours, including bright coral and bright lime.
Olymp has decided that its S/S 17 offerings will be all about bold stripes. This goes hand-in-hand with a trend towards rich, quality fabrics. They radiate luxury without heaviness. New graphic prints finish off the look. The shirts have an altogether more subdued appearance, but they’re no less varied. New ideas are the order of the day, implemented with sophistication in the collections. Small Kent collars feature, while button-down collars are also a little smaller. In terms of colour, a highlight is a light and summery feeling that recalls a day on the Riviera, which is deftly brought into an urban context. Fresh pastels and their more powerful nuances lend just the right atmosphere. Exciting colour combinations, bright multicoloured checks and a variety of different stripes provide that summery feeling every day.
SKOPES Skopes is, once again, expecting blue to be their bestselling colour theme for their upcoming season, with bold royal, vying for centre stage with fresh new tones such as their icy air force and indigo colourways. The new colour story emerging is definitely grey. Available in a choice of cloth compositions, from 100 percent wool, wool/poly mix and polyviscose blends, there are price points and styles to target a wide range of customer profiles, and many are available from a 34” chest up to a 62”, with total flexibility in waistcoats and trousers to ensure a perfect fit. A new Slim Fit trouser option introduced for S/S’16 proved very successful, so this has been extended to more styles and colours for S/S 17. Their jackets will have a softer, more casual look overall, evident with buggy linings and textured weave fabrics, which can be dressed up or down. Mix-and-match waistcoats are available in several cloths while active waist chinos, and the new range of more contemporary shower proof short length trench coats, complete the seasonal offer.
44 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
STYLE FILE
MEPHISTO The tone is set for Mephisto’s S/S 17 collection by new and exciting material and colour combinations, premium quality leathers in on-trend colours, and super-lightweight soles. Cork sandals in various heights will add a feminine touch to a range of different outfits. The material finishes range from floral prints, metallics and varnish to fringedecorated reptile look, while the colour palette ranges from black and white, soft browns to delicate pastels. For sneakers and lace-up shoes, seductive shimmering leather with two-tone styling creates a sleek, modern look, while materials suich as velour, smooth and pastel metallic leather redefine the boundaries of style. For the men, a sporty yet chic look is apparent. Lightweight calf leather sneakers are a stylish yet comfortable option that come in white, blue, light cement shades and medium to dark tones of brown.
ALLROUNDER On-trend, vibrant and multifunctional, the new men’s and ladies’ collection for S/S 17 features Allrounder’s new SOFT TOUCH shock-absorber technology that reduces impact to a minimum. Shoes are characterised by ultralightweight materials, cutting-edge colour and material combinations, metallic accents and s durable, three-part sole, as well as a supremely functional interior. Premium-quality, soft-grip microfibres and replaceable soles ensure a comfortable fit right across the range. Multi-faceted sneakers are now made from extremely lightweight materials with added stretch and improved cushioning. A matching mix of leather and pearl is complemented by perforated detailing and contrasting laces, while their reflective elements offer additional safety. With a new, ultra-lightweight sneaker group like the Festival ladies’ shoe or the Tudor men’s shoe, the French outdoor specialist is targeting the urban wear and travel sector with its characteristic emphasis on functionality.
GORDON SHANNY PHONE: 061 349090 · FAX: 061 341366 MOBILE: 086 815 4555 · E-MAIL: GORDONSHANNY@EIRCOM.NET WWW.C-BRUEHL.COM
January 2016 | Futura Magazine 45
STYLE FILE
LAUREN VIDAL
JOULES
Lauren Vidal includes a wide chromatic range in its collections, which defines the season’s trends. There is a real desire here to return meaning and distinction to ready-towear, whilst combining comfort and originality. The Lauren Vidal style wants to be an expression of femininity, a creation which speaks to women with multiple facets assuming her personality. Be unique. Lauren Vidal offers a style using exclusive prints and patterns. Today’s women will love the flowing, comfortable fabrics, mainly from Italy. The Lauren Vidal’s customer is a woman between 30 and 50 years old who claims a curiosity and a different approach to fashion. The company’s ethos can be surmised in three words: modernity, authenticity and distinction.
With Joules’ S/S 17 collection, it’s time to welcome warm days at the seaside and long balmy evenings with friends and family in great summer clothes. Joules has designed yet another collection of beautiful, bold styles to ensure that ladies are stylishly covered for both home and away. The collection combines classic stripes with drawn floral prints and bohemian touches on a bold colour palette. This range moves on from previous seasons with unique detailing updates such as tassels, fringing, lurex and colourful embroidery. New for the season is a geometric pattern formed out of small seaside elements. The Otille sleeveless top is available in starfish print and soft coral. Elsewhere, the Carys relaxed pop-over tunic features a fresh, bright, floral design - elegantly drawn by the incredibly talented Joules in-house print design team.
FABER
HAJO
For almost 25 years, Paul Harrison has been the UK and Irish agent for Faber, working closely with Markus Faber, owner of the brand, to ensure that the knitwear offerings continue to find huge success in the Emerald Isle. Faber’s knitwear is designed for the sporty-chic woman looking for premium-quality fashion, that’s both comfortable and the perfect fit even in bigger sizes. Current trends are realised in fashionable collections that impress with a clear, discrete and distinctive design according to their principle: quality instead of quantity. Individual and expressive fashion statements are created in the family-run enterprise in Toepen, where approximately 80 percent of the production is locally produced. The new collection for S/S 17 is fresh and modern and can now be bought from size 8 to 26.
Amsterdam – unique among the European metropolises, comparably small, but offering international flair – provides the ideal setting for the new SS collection. This is the second season for Hajo Polo & Sportswear to feature under the new label and brand name Joy of Life. New silhouettes and new proportions dominate the seasonal look, alongside layering and differing lengths. Intense brightness and easiness is the statement of the collection, which places emphasis on Stay Fresh materials, which correspond to the spirit of the age and the reality of the modern woman. Garments are dryersafe, breathable, skin sensitive, non-iron and machine washable.
46 Futura | Menswear in Ireland | January 2016
STYLE FILE
ETERNA
MICHÈLE
The Eterna S/S 17 collection features everything from fashionable cotton collared shirts to feminine, flowing tunics and relaxed, over-sized silhouettes. It goes without saying that the blouse is an indispensable and uncomplicated component of fashionable outfits. New stripe variations and prints with carefully designed animal and lifestyle themes provide more options for ladies to create a fashionable, yet feminine feel-good look. Jersey blazers, knitwear and items made of lightweight down enhance the collection. With the exclusive label Good Shirt, Eterna embraces sustainable, environmentallyfriendly and fair production conditions, and allows customers to trace the individual production steps of clothing items online.
Fashion has not been yielding to any dictatorship for a few seasons now, say fashion house Michèle. They believe that there are no longer any clearly defined themes such as Safari or Maritime; rather, the trend now focuses on finding one’s own style. In terms of the skirts, a cultural mix has formed the basis for their designs. Another trend called Recycling and Upcycling is aimed at the balanced, life-affirming younger generations. There are also nods to the digital era, along with the more calming aspects of life, such as yoga and Asian massages. With regards to their trousers, the maritime influences that dominate are fresh and vibrant, getting us in the mood for summer. The latest, super elastic, technical weaves inspire slim silhouettes and provide a young dynamic with technical appeal. The Magic collection continues to appeal with its sophisticated-shaping jeans that ensure that all figures are stylish and confident.
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THOUGHT FOR THE MONTH Some changes look negative, on the surface, but you will soon realise, that space is being created, for something new to emerge.
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July 2016 | Futura Magazine 49