Menswear January 2014

menswear in ireland JANUARY 2014

2013 In Review Meath Under the Spotlight AW14/15 Collections The New-Look Best Men’s Wear at Clerys Showtalk

MENSWEAR | WOMENSWEAR | SHOES | BAGS ACCESSORIES | LEATHERWEAR | UNDERWEAR

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Welcome to the January issue of Menswear in Ireland, the first of five issues for 2014.

With the new year in full swing, we’ve been working hard to bring you a feature-packed issue brimming with all the latest news, views and need-to know.

With the sun having recently set on 2013, what better time than to find out how different independent retailers across the country have found trading in recent months. Our ‘So, How Was It For You?’ feature includes six revealing viewpoints on everything from best-selling labels and customers’ spending patterns to planned changes for the year ahead. It all makes, we think, for fascinating reading.

With the grande dame of O’Connell Street, Clerys department store, having recently re-opened for business, an interview with Simon Smith, Clerys’ Commercial Director, and Caroline Reynolds, Best Men’s Wear’s Area Sales Manager, was another feature that proved particularly timely.

Our fashion focus this issue is on the AW14/15 season which, judging from the collections we have seen to date, promises to be one of the most exciting seasons in recent years. Check out the first part of our seasonal preview in Collection Reports and judge for yourself. The concluding section in our twopart feature will be in the February issue.

Elsewhere, the spotlight is placed on Meath where we trawled the county’s streets to run the rule over some of its independent menswear stores. Our findings appear on page 16.

contents News 2

Trends: Suiting 22

The latest news, developments and appointments in the menswear section.

What’s hot for AW14/15 suiting.

Simply The Best 10 A look at Best Men’s Wear in the revamped Clerys.

So, How Was It For You 14 Retailers’ views on 2013.

Meath Under the Spotlight 16 Independent menswear retailers in Meath.

Trends: Shirts 18 The top trends for AW14/15 shirts.

Other highlights in your January issue include our regular features such as News and Showtalk, as well as trends reports on AW14 suits and shirts.

Enjoy the read and see you next month!

Alexander Fitzgerald Editor alexanderfitzgerald@gmail.com Editor of the Year (Irish Magazine Awards 2013-14)

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Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing Ltd., 5 Main Street, Blackrock, Co. Dublin.

Telephone: 01 283 6782, Facsimile: 01 283 6784, Email: sinead@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith, Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Contributors: Domhnall O’Donoghue, Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing Ltd. 2014.

menswear in ireland

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menswear in ireland Cover Shot: Carl Gross

Winner Takes All 23 All the winners from the recent Drapers Awards.

Eye on the Ball 24 The secrets of Ireland’s Eye Knitwear’s success.

Showtalk 26 Buyers from independent menswear retailers have their say.

Collection Reports 29 AW14 in focus.

News

ARNOTTS CHRISTMAS APP LAUNCHED

NEWS CHRISTMAS JUMPER DESIGN AT CENTRE OF DISPUTE

Christmas arguments are usually reserved for family reunions, but it seems that two clothing companies are at war with each other over the design of a festive jumper.

Following a high court application, Littlewoods were forced to withdraw one of their jumpers, after Portlaoise-based Zatori Results alleged that the online retailers had infringed one of their designs.

Zatori

Littlewoods

ing to Retail Excellence Ireland, the postChristmas sales, which kicked off on St Stephen’s Day, brought in €1bn for shops and department stores, which translates as a 20 per cent increase on last year: the best result for the sector in six years. This is particularly buoyant news, seeing as December was rather sluggish for the industry.

According to Retail Excellence Ireland, this upturn is due to the fact that Irish customers are now a lot more frugal when it comes to seasonal spending, choosing to wait until the sales to buy instead.

“We have noticed that savvy consumers are willing to postpone fashion, footwear, home and prestige and luxury brand spending into the sales period,” David Fitzsimons of Retail Excellence Ireland says.

It seems that our international friends are also to thank for this increase in end-ofyear spending, according to Mr Fitzsimons.

To stand out from the crowd at Christmas, retailers are often forced to generate novel ideas in their quest to get generate publicity. And the prize for this season’s most original stunt should be awarded to Arnotts, who allowed 25 Santas to abseil from the 150-year-old building in celebration of their new Christmas gift app.

From 1 December until Christmas Eve, Arnotts offered registered app users hundreds of freebies from brands in-store including Molton Brown, Appleby, Michael Kors, Link of London, Folli Follie, Lancôme, ITSA Bagel and the newly opened Joe’s Coffee House.

On the big day itself, one lucky app user won a shopping spree worth €2,500 in the Arnotts Winter Sale.

“We have a huge amount of people coming from Asia in particular and many of these customers don’t celebrate Christmas, so the post-Christmas sales are a very attractive bonus to them,” he explains.

Furthermore, Zatori, which employs 87 people, claims Littlewoods has damaged its seasonal business by allegedly breaching its intellectual property rights in selling a jumper with an almost identical design they first put on the market last year. They have revealed that sales of its seasonal knitwear are down 75 per cent from 12 months ago.

ONLINE SALES SOAR IN IRELAND In their Irish eCommerce Report 2013, eTail Excellence Ireland and eCommerce Europe have reported that online sales in Ireland have reached €4.6 billion this year and are forecasted to reach €5.5 billion in 2014.

CHRISTMAS SALES SEE 20% SPENDING INCREASE

Online sales in Europe were worth €400bn in 2013 and are set to increase 20 per cent in 2014.

An estimated 75 per cent of Irish retailers had an online presence in 2013 up from 50 per cent in 2012, which contributes to Ireland being one of the fastest growing eCommerce markets in Europe.

It really seems that, this year, the festive season is the gift that keeps giving. Accord2 menswear in ireland

Eurostat also confirmed that 72 per cent of online purchases were made locally - a sig-

MENSWEAR | WOMENSWEAR | LEATHERWEAR | SHOES | BAGS | ACCESSORIES | HOMEWEAR | UNDERWEAR | BUGATTI-FASHION.COM

Stephen Lynch, 62A Lower cAmden Street, dubLin 2, ireLAnd, mobiLe: +353 (0) 87 256 5706, emAiL: Stephen@LynchAgencieS.com

News

nificant improvement from previous reports.

7.6 per cent of overall retail sales were online, a big improvement on the 6.2 per cent that was reported last year. This share is expected to continue to grow to over 8 per cent due to growing confidence in shopping online.

TOMMY BOWE PROVING HUGE SUCCESS IN FASHION WORLD Irish and Lions Rugby Star Tommy Bowe is continuing his impressive foray into the fashion industry with his new men’s line, XV Kings – Tommy Bowe Designs.

“I hope in the coming seasons to expand the range, offering a complete wardrobe of quality clothing,” the rugby star adds.

The collection has been designed, sourced and distributed from his home county of Monaghan.

US INVESTMENT FIRM ACQUIRES PORTION OF ARNOTTS’ DEBTS Apollo, the US investment firm, has acquired a portion of the loans secured on Arnotts Department Store following a lengthy bidding process, it has been revealed.

of the debt in a separate deal with Ulster Bank.

While it is believed that the Westons, a Canadian retail dynasty with strong Irish links, want to run Arnotts under its existing name as a distinct retail brand, rather than rebrand it as a Brown Thomas store, Arnotts current chairman Nigel Blow has expressed his fears for the future direction of the legendary Dublin department store following these latest developments.

“My duty with the rest of the board is to make sure the outcome is as good as it can be for the company, the staff, the Arnotts brand and its customers,” Mr Blow said.

“I think it’s very important for Ireland that the Arnotts brand keeps going,” he added.

With a face value of €230m, the loans have been bought from the liquidators of IBRC, the former Anglo Irish Bank.

GIFT RETAILER CARRAIG DONN TO CREATE 100 NEW JOBS Carraig Donn, the gifts and clothing chain, is to create 100 new jobs.

This follows on from the Ulsterman’s successful collaboration with footwear company, Lloyd & Pryce, which has been trading in all leading retailers across the UK and Ireland since 2010.

XV Kings – Tommy Bowe Designs is an introduction to the brand with a much larger collection due in September/October 2014.

Feedback and sales since the recent launch have been impressive, which bodes well for the future expansion of the line.

Bowe and his team have put together a collection of beautiful Harrington jackets, puffa jackets, gilets, cashmere blend sweaters and zippy hoodies.

“The work taken to get this project off the ground has been huge, but now when I see the collection been delivered to stores and the feedback from customers, it all has been worthwhile,” Bowe reveals.

Bowe believes strongly in creating quality garments that appeal to men like himself.

4 menswear in ireland

In 2010, IBRC and Ulster Bank took control of Arnotts and a portfolio of neighbouring properties when the lenders wrote off a separate €300 million debt in exchange for ownership of the business – pushing out former owners. Anglo Irish Bank is said to control 45 per cent of the business, while Ulster Bank controlled 49.5 per cent.

What Apollo has purchased is a share of the debt taken out by Arnotts’ previous owners to develop the shop and surrounding properties in the Henry Street area in a scheme that was to be known as the Northern Quarter.

The Brown Thomas-owning Weston family and developer Noel Smyth’s Fitzwilliam Finance have already bought the remainder

This positive news comes as the firm readies itself for the opening of a new outlet in the Jervis Shopping Centre. The new positions will primarily be based there and at the company’s manufacturing plant in Westport, Co. Mayo.

The expansion is planned for 2014 and 2015.

Carraig Donn already employs 450 people, and operates 32 shops nationwide.

We will be showing our new Autumn/ Winter 14 Collection, along with our updated Stock Service lines at:

INDX Menswear

Tuesday 28th – Thursday 30th January 2014 Cranmore Park, Solihull

MODA Gent Exhibition

Sunday 16th – Tuesday 18th February 2014 NEC Birmingham – STAND MC41

Exclusive show offers for visitors to the above shows.

For more information contact Sinead Gosson E gossonagencies@eircom.net T 01-6706525 F 01-6706526

Gosson Agencies Ltd 22 Forbes Street Sir John Rogersons Quay Dublin 2

News

PENNEYS TO CREATE 5,000 JOBS WITH 10 NEW STORES Penneys owner Primark says it is to create 5,000 jobs across Europe with the launch of 10 European outlets in the space of a month.

In a statement on 29 November, 2013, the group said that the new stores would create 4,000 permanent and 1,000 temporary jobs. Some 442 of these will be created in the French outlet, which spans 60,000 sq ft. The other store openings include five in Spain and one apiece in the UK, Germany and Austria.

British owner Associated British Foods is determined to speed up the chain’s expansion across northern continental Europe, a market it says remained strong throughout the year.

The firm recently applied for planning permission to transform its Mary Street, Dublin, offices into a state-of-the-art global HQ. The plans propose a 125,000-sq-ft facility that will house 500 staff.

If planning approval is granted, building work will begin early next year and be completed in 2015.

The development will revamp two sets of offices – one above the Mary Street outlet and one in an adjacent building that the company bought a few years ago, Chapel House on Parnell Street. It includes plans to link the two through a bridge, as well as the construction of what the retailer describes as a “central atrium” and a “glazed courtyard”.

cent against the previous year.

The number of employees also increased by 49 people to a total of 613.

Associated company, Maerz, enjoyed similar growth, increasing its turnover by 6.1 per cent to €26.2 million. This means that the Olymp Bezner Group achieved a total turnover of €228.6 million in the 2013 financial year.

Mark Bezner, owner and CEO of Olymp said: “In 2013, Olymp made its largest single investment in the company’s history since 1951. A total of €40 million was invested.”

The clothing specialists anticipate future growth. What’s more, due to the increasing demand for men’s outerwear, shirts, polo shirts, knitted and woven goods, Olymp will once again be in a position to create more jobs in 2014.

The plans also propose to fill the landmark dome at the Mary Street premises with offices.

OLYMP EXCEEDS THE €200 MILLION MARK FOR THE FIRST TIME

In 2013, the turnover of Olymp, Germany’s leading branded shirt manufacturer, grew by a further €15.5 million to €202.4 million. This represents an increase of 8.3 per

Agent required for 32 counties to sell ladies’ wear and accessories collection.

Interested parties with experience and good connections please email Alfred Martin at alfred@pacoretail.com

6 menswear in ireland

JOHN SWAN APPOINTED AS IRISH DISTRIBUTOR FOR CLUB OF GENTS Gosson Agencies Ltd in conjunction with Creation Gross GmbH has announced the introduction of John Swan Ltd. as the new importer and distributer for the label Club of Gents.

It has been agreed as company policy to separate nationally and internationally the identities of the two brands, Carl Gross and Club of Gents, from January 2014.

Appointments can be made by contacting Gosson Agencies Ltd. in relation to Carl Gross, and John Swan with regard to Club of Gents.

John Lawlor | E: john@threadweave.com | T: 00353 / 862591088 Christian Lawlor | E: office@threadweave.com | T:00353 / 868135983

News

DUBLINER APPOINTED AS FAÇONNABLE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Façonnable has tapped Daniel Kearns as its new artistic director as it embarks on a repositioning and expansion drive.

The 38-year-old Dublin-born designer recently joined the Nice-based fashion house from Yves Saint Laurent, where he was menwear design director under Stefano Pilati, its previous creative director.

Kearns joins Façonnable – a prominent French lifestyle brand founded on the Riviera in the 1950s - having worked with John Galliano, who recruited the graduate of London’s Royal College of Art when he launched Galliano’s menwear range in 2002. Three years later, Kearns joined Lee Alexander McQueen to become his design director for his menswear line until McQueen’s death in 2010.

In his new design post, Kearns will reunite with Ludovic Le Gourrièrec, a former YSL executive with a strong track record of jumpstarting menswear businesses. Last July, he was named Façonnable’s new deputy managing director. Kearns had also worked with Le Gourrièrec at Galliano.

TROUSER SPECIALIST HEADS FOR BERLIN Gardeur GmbH is set to present three brands - Atelier Gardeur, G Design and Thomas Rath Trousers - at Panorama Berlin.

“We will prove to trade visitors the secret of an excellent fit and bring them into contact with our brands as often as possible,” says Gerhard Kränzle, CEO and majority shareholder at Gardeur GmbH. “We see Panorama as an excellent platform with a future,” Kränzle adds. “The trade fair has already set a new standard of excellence in organisation and customer orientation – both for visitors and exhibitors alike. This is why we feel in very good hands with our now three brands.”

This will be the third season Gardeur is represented at Panorama with G Design, while Atelier Gardeur and Thomas Rath Trousers will be celebrating their premiere at the January fair.

The trouser specialist is also expected to exhibit at Who’s Next (Paris), CIFF (Copenhagen), CPD (Düsseldorf), Moda, (Birmingham) and CPM (Moscow).

Paul Lynch Lynch Agencies 62A Lower Camden Street, Dublin 2 Mobile: +353 (0)87 146 6528 E-mail: paul@lynchagencies.com

Now Showing AW14 and Stock Service SS14 Next Day Delivery 8 menswear in ireland

seidensticker Autumn / Winter 2014 now showing.

Also see us at Moda Gent, Stand No. MC49

Ollie Campbell Limited Phase 4, Unit 42a/1 Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24, Ireland Ph: 00 353 1 429 5088, Fax: 00 353 1 429 5088, Mobile: 00 353 86 876 8096, Email: olliec@iol.ie

interview

Simply the Best G-Star

Remus Uomo

Founded in O’Connell Street in 1948, Best Men’s Wear is the country’s largest suit provider, and has firmly established itself as part of the fabric of Irish society. It is fully Irish owned, employing 250 people with 15 stores nationwide.

The company also lays claim to being the menswear provider to Clerys, Dublin’s prestigious department store.

Recently, along with the rest of the landmark building, the menswear floor got a stylish makeover. Menswear discusses the new changes with Simon Smith, Clerys’ Commercial Director and Caroline Reynolds, Best Men’s Wear’s Area Sales Manager, while also discovering why Best is head and shoulders above the competition.

Bugatti

Stones

10 menswear in ireland

Strellson

SIMON SMITH, COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR AT CLERYS

What labels are proving most successful for you?

How has the new look turned out for Best Men’s Wear at Clerys?

Are you planning to take on any new brands in the coming seasons?

It has turned out really well. The layout is now much more contemporary, creating a wonderful shopping environment for customers. It’s brightly lit and spacious.

Best Men’s Wear is Ireland’s largest independent men’s retailer.

From constant interaction with our customers, we know what they are looking for and realise the importance of leading the way when it comes to the selection of the brands we stock. As such, we are constantly on the look out for new lines and labels to bring to our customers, many of whom are very brand-conscious. As we move into the New Year, we will certainly add to our large selection of international brands. Watch this space!

What changes have been made to the layout?

We wanted to introduce a more spacious quality, so a big change has been to the lighting with a new rig system in place. The escalators are also wider, giving an open view of the floor, which itself is more mirrored. For this effect, we used lots of steel and glass.

There are personalised areas for certain brands including G-Star and there’s also is a new bakery, which has proven to be a big success. All in all, we’ve created a general spirit of renewal.

Will the new layout attract a different demographic?

We wanted to ensure that our loyal customers were retained, as well as welcoming new ones, something that has definitely been achieved.

What have customers’ reaction been so far?

The initial response has been excellent, with customers really attracted to the new mix of labels. And the figures speak for themselves: turn over is up.

CAROLINE REYNOLDS, AREA SALES MANAGER FOR BEST MEN’S WEAR Will the new layout attract a different demographic?

Since Best Men’s wear reopened with Clerys, we have been attracting a new demographic, while also happily welcoming back our very loyal customer base.

The new G-Star shop is proving a great success, with sales doubling. We have moved the contemporary area to a more central part of the sales floor and this, too, is proving a huge success.

We are stocking brands such as Strellson, Selected, Stones and Remus, all of whom have increased their performance since the re-fit.

Marco Capelli, Tommy Hilfiger, Magee, Remus, Gabicci, G Star, Lerros and Levi’s.

When it comes to suits, Best Men’s Wear has a wonderful reputation. Why is this so?

Since conception, we have had a reputation for suiting men from age 18 upwards. No matter what your requirement for business or social occasions, we will always have the perfect suit for our customers. This is enhanced by our Personal Tailoring Service, which is available in all of our stores and ensures that everybody gets their suit personally tailored to their fit, style and occasion needs. In 2014, we plan to make more of this personal service.

Being part of the country’s landscape since 1948, how does Best Men’s Wear give back to Irish society?

In 2013, we were delighted to celebrate our 65th birthday with the launch of our Christmas charity campaign for the Irish Hospice Foundation for which we designed and produced gift boxes and bags. These beautiful Christmas wrappings were available in all our stores for our customers to wrap their Christmas gifts in. If our customers wished, they could make a donation of €2, which went directly to the Irish Hospice Foundation. Best Men’s Wear was delighted to support this charity and, along with producing the wrappings, we also topped up the donations to €10,000.

Also, for the past eight years, we have been official clothing suppliers to the Leinster Rugby Team, which is a really important partnership for us, as we commend the values they hold and try to emulate them ourselves.

What is in store for Best Men’s Wear at Clerys for 2014?

What is the average customer spend in Best Men’s Wear?

For 2014 and onwards, we plan to focus much of our attention on building our own brand and the fact that we are a 100% Irish-owned company, which we believe is a really important message that our customers appreciate, value and want to hear.

We also plan to build on our Best Price Guarantee, which was launched in late 2013, where we will match or beat any genuine competitors’ advertised price on the date they purchase or within seven days of the purchase. We even match competitors’ sale prices.

It ranges between €90 and €120. Customers’ average spend is definitely growing.

2014 is also going to be really important for us as we continue to embrace new customers through our contemporary brand mix.

menswear in ireland 11

advertorial

LERROS for the office

Having stood for high quality men’s fashion in the casual segment over the past 30 years, lifestyle brand LERROS is making an exciting addition to its range with the launch of LERROS Smart Casuals, an innovative new shirt range that offers fashionable styles for the office and for the evening.

When he talks about the new LERROS Smart Casuals collection, CEO Jan ten Brinke has his eye in particular on those customers who already value the LERROS quality.

“We have over 30 years’ experience in the shirt segment – so there will be no such thing as a simple shirt from us.

Instead our aim is to offer a product that focuses on quality and features, at a price that customers in this segment do not expect.”

Selling prices for shirts from the LERROS Smart Casuals collection will be predominantly in the €49.95 to €59.95 bracket, with an attractive mark-up for retail partners.

All shirts in the new collection are being created in the Modern Fit, with designs that are fashionable but also suitable for office and evening wear. The shirts also offer more features than the classic shirt, such as special contrast fabrics, an easy-care finish and collar stays. A large proportion of the styles will be offered to retailers as NOS. To showcase the brand and encourage sales, display fixtures, stand-up displays and presentation systems have been developed that are just as high quality as the articles themselves.

“If the customer wants to check out our expertise, we will win

12 menswear in ireland

him over through our quality and our special look,” says ten Brinke.

With its new range, LERROS is taking up its second position in the retail sector because, as ten Brinke is certain: “Our brand has strong USPs (Unique Selling Points) – a perfect and well-known fit and real added ‘must-have’ appeal.

End consumers will thus be open to LERROS in this new segment too.”

This is also in line with the 40-yearold’s vision of the future, as he makes clear: “To begin with shirts as a product group will take priority for us, but we can well imagine LERROS Smart Casuals Lifestyle operating in many product groups.”

The LERROS Smart Casual Collection will be on view from 20 January to 14 February, 2014, in our Dublin Showroom at Unit 35 Fashion City (Phase 4), Ballymount Road Upper, Tallaght, Dublin 24 or, alternatively, in our European Showroom in Halle 29 Rheinmetall Allee, Dusseldorf from 31 January until 3 February, 2014.

Please contact Dan O’Callaghan on +353 (0) 86 783 3264 or +353 (1) 4295 706 or at danoc@lerros.com, or see the brand online at ilovelerros.com

Smart Casuals Presentation of the LERROS SMART CASUAL Collection From January 20th until February 14th Fashion City Showroom in Dublin

Unit 35, Fashion City, Ballymount Road Upper, Tallaght, Dublin 24 Contact Dan O’Callaghan at 00353 86 7833264 or danoc@lerros.com Aoife Feighery in our Showroom 00353 1 4295706

ilovelerros.com

vox pop

So, How Was It For You? With a new year just beginning, Menswear caught up with six independent retailers to find out their views and experiences of 2013 and their plans for the year ahead.

CLUB DANGAN, ENNIS, CO. CLARE

BROWNE’S, NAAS, CO. KILDARE

AIDAN RAY, BOYLE, CO. ROSCOMMON

VALERIE CONNEELY

MARK DIFFNEY

GERARD SHEERIN

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

It’s been an okay year for us. It started quite slowly but picked up throughout the summer. Then in mid-November, coming

It’s been tough. Thankfully, it came good towards the latter part of the year and the Christmas season has been really busy.

towards Christmas, it was extremely busy.

What labels have been successful?

What labels have been successful?

Our two main sellers have been Barbour and Gant. Bugatti has also become popular again.

Our biggest sellers have been Gant, State of Art, McGregor, Voi and Tommy Hilfiger.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Are there any labels that you have rested?

To be honest, it’s been our worst year since the recession hit. Our biggest problem was the lack of footfall. Once customers came in, though, they were happy to spend.

What labels have been successful?

Bugatti has been really strong for us, as well as Meyer trousers. Diesel continues to be really popular with our younger customers.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

the ranges we already stock.

Yes, we dropped Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, mainly on account of Kildare Village, which is where most customers would buy these high-end brands.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

Yes, we’ve taken on Selective Homme,

Because we dropped Boss and Lauren, we invested our money in other brands that had proven to be successful for us, such as Gant.

No, the brands that we’ve stocked over the years are been consistently strong, so we have remained loyal to them.

No, not this year. We’ve just expanded on

as well as Alan Paine knitwear; both of which have been very successful.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

So far, we’re definitely taking on Scotch &

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

out for new labels.

Absolutely. We’ve yet to decide which labels to invest in yet, but we’re definitely keen on expanding our range.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

We’ve found that rather than buying in

Definitely. Customers are much more cautious and will now limit their spending to just jeans or shirts.

Soda for S/S 14 but are still on the look-

bulk, customers are buying less, though more frequently.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We’re going to attend much more trade fairs. We’ve already confirmed our attendance in Berlin and the Netherlands.

14 menswear in ireland

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

Because of the void left behind from Boss and Lauren, we’re going to attend numerous showcase events and keep on eye on alternative labels.

No, we’ve stuck with the labels we’ve had; we didn’t feel it was necessary to change.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

We don’t see it as a necessity at the moment, but we’re always open to the possibility.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Absolutely. Customers seem to buy for occasions – whether it’s a wedding, a graduation or a job interview. If they come in, it’s with a purpose. Browsing seems to be a thing of the past.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We’re developing our website at the moment, which we’re hoping to launch in early 2014. Many people are turning to online shopping, so we’re creating this new option for our customers.

MATT O’BRIEN’S MENSWEAR, LONGFORD MATT O’BRIEN How has 2013 been for you?

CHARLIE PIERCE MENSWEAR, WEXFORD

BRIAN JAMES MENSWEAR, KILLARNEY, CO. KERRY

We’ve had a mixed year. The first three months were busy but they were followed by a disappointing Easter. July was strong, while August was only average. November picked up and we had a great run of it in December.

TOM MORAN

BRIAN JAMES

What labels have been successful?

How has 2013 been for you?

How has 2013 been for you?

All in all, it’s been okay. Thankfully, things picked up towards the end of the year.

Overall, we’re reasonably happy. December and the lead-up to Christmas have been really busy for us. Throughout the year, there have been months that have been successful, followed by months that have been slow.

What labels have been successful?

Bugatti continues to be a really strong seller for us.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

We haven’t rested anything this year. Last year, we dropped State of Year, a brand that just stopped selling for us.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

We took on 6th Sense and it is now one of our main sellers.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

We plan on attending several shows over the coming year and if there are labels that we think would appeal to our customers, we’ll definitely consider taking them on.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

What labels have been successful?

Our strongest sellers have been Superdry, Casa Moda, Bugatti and Gant.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

Yes, we dropped Ralph Lauren this year.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

We actually rested Levi’s last year, but have since re-stocked it, though what we stock is quite small. We have also taken on Shine, which has been doing quite well.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

We’re planning on expanding our current lines, which have proven to be successful for us in the past.

We’ve noticed that confidence is creeping back and customers are spending more in recent times. Obviously, we’d like them to be spending even more than they are, but we’re happy that it’s going in the right direction.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We have nothing drastic in place, but we’re always gauging what the needs of our customers are, and will adapt accordingly.

Our main aim for the coming year is to maintain a level of stability throughout the 12 months, rather than having spurts followed by quiet periods.

We’ve definitely seen an improvement, with a slight uptake overall. Customers are spending that bit more now. All in all, spending patterns remain unpredictable.

Our main sellers have been Hilfiger, Casa Moda, Bugatti and also Lacoste. Our suits have been very successful for us this year, particularly for summer weddings. Labels like Tricot Marine have been appealing to our budget-conscious customers.

Are there any labels that you have rested?

We’ve rested one or two labels, but, in general, we have stood by most of them.

Have you taken on any new labels over the year?

We’ve taken on the clothing range from Tommy Bowe, which has proven to be very popular so far.

Are you introducing any new labels in 2014?

We are always on the look out for new labels and we intend on going to many trade shows over the coming months. We have already committed to a couple of new jeans lines, but we’re also keen on expanding in other areas as well.

Have customers’ spending patterns changed much?

They have definitely become much more price-conscious – with everyone watching the pennies. Our customers are attracted to reductions and bargains, while they have been avoiding the high-priced ranges. We have introduced numerous special offers, such as knitwear and shirt combinations for €90 and that has been really well received.

Have you any changes in store for 2014?

We’re going to develop our Tommy Denim area, while also looking at new fittings for the store in general. It’s been about five years since we’ve done something like that so it’s important to keep things fresh and up-to-date.

menswear in ireland 15

Meath

Under The Spotlight SHOP: MCKENNA MAN LOCATION: Navan ADDRESS: Unit 1 & 2, Navan Shopping Centre, Navan, Co. Meath STOCK: For decades, McKenna Man has been the go-to destination store for formalwear. Their big-name suits include Remus Uomo, Douglas and Tommy Hilfiger, while they also provide a dress-hire service with suits from Magee and Wilvorst. McKenna Man also boasts an extensive range of denims (Levi’s, Superdry, GStar and Hilfiger) and casualwear (Penguin, Ted Baker, Hilfiger and Lacoste).

TARGET CUSTOMER: McKenna Man appeals to young brand-conscious and budget-conscious shoppers. The store, which also has outlets in Drogheda and Dundalk, has been thriving since the 1950s, so they know how to dress a lad from head to toe.

OVERALL VERDICT: A varied and contemporary selection perfect for those who want to stay one step ahead.

With a prime location in Navan’s busy shopping centre, McKenna Man means that young local shoppers can get all their needs met without having to traipse up to the capital.

SHOP: GEOGHEGAN’S OF NAVAN LOCATION: Navan ADDRESS: 23–25 Trimgate Street, Navan, Co. Meath STOCK: This family-run business has been serving the town for over 60 years. Its success seems to lie in a diverse selection of clothing, offering both formal and casual ranges to customers. In terms of suits, Geoghan’s favours Magee, though Carl Gross and Kartell also have a strong presence.

Their casual labels include many household favourites, such as Bugatti, Tommy Hilfiger, Meyer and Mustang.

TARGET CUSTOMER: Geoghegan’s attracts the working businessman with a keen eye for the latest trends and clean, sharp designs.

OVERALL VERDICT: The shop’s lasting endurance speaks for itself. This elegant and diverse store (if perhaps a little cluttered) is kitted out with all the current brands for every occasion, making it a deservedly popular shopping destination.

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SHOP: MCELHINNEY’S FOR MEN LOCATION: Athboy ADDRESS: Main Street, Athboy, Co. Meath STOCK: This well-established store houses a superb selection with something for all seasons. Suits are well represented by German brands such as Odermark, Carl Gross and Baumler, as well as Irish staple Magee. Their casual attire ranges from trendy labels such as Diesel and Camel Active to the old reliables, including Bugatti, Meyer and Bruhl. In terms of footwear, there is plenty of choice with Ecco and Dubarry amongst the mix.

TARGET CUSTOMER: McElhinney’s caters towards the older age bracket who are drawn towards clothes that are of top quality with neutral, non-fussy designs.

OVERALL VERDICT: Despite the limited space, McElhinney’s has a clean and tidy layout that, along with its vast array of choice, has proven popular with its customers for many years. And rightly so.

SHOP: MCDERMOTT’S LOCATION: Oldcastle ADDRESS: The Square, Oldcastle, Co. Meath STOCK: McDermott’s has a wonderful variety of trendy casualwear and footwear. They stock a wide-range of homegrown and international labels including Tommy Bowe, Gasoline, Ben Sherman, Diesel, Douglas and Remus, as well as an extensive collection of Benetti knitwear.

What’s more, the store also lays claim to a fine selection of outdoor footwear, with Gri Sports Footwear among the mix.

TARGET CUSTOMER: Catered towards a young demographic who are guaranteed stylish and affordable garments that are also practical and long-lasting.

OVERALL VERDICT: While the modest size of the store suggests that its stock might be limited, McDermott’s have carefully handpicked the latest contemporary brands ensuring that customers are not left wanting, making it a little gem in the north of the Royal County.

menswear in ireland 17

trends

TRENDS: Shirts Bold, brave and brilliant sums up the mood for AW14 shirts.

Daring designs, loud-andproud prints and attractive detailing feature prominently in casualwear, making for an overall range that impresses on many levels.

Denim promises to be one of the fashion highlights of the season. The hard-wearing fabric appears in a host of collections in a number of shades, from washed-out and faded to deep and dark.

Classic conservatism is, not

surprisingly, the contrasting order of the day in formal shirts. The emphasis is on high-quality materials and discreet details. Mono-colour remains the go-to design, although checks and stripes make for elegant alternatives.

SHIRTS: Plain Digel

Eterna

Olymp

Venti

SHIRTS: Denim Olymp

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Club of Gents

Casa Moda

Création Gross GmbH & Co. KG // Houbirgstraße 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +353 (0) 167 065 25 E-Mail: j.gosson@carlgross.com // carlgross.com

CarlGross_Anz_MENSWEAR_IRELAND_182x272-RZ.indd 1

20.12.13 16:51

trends

SHIRTS: Pattern Seidensticker

Club of Gents

Arrow

SHIRTS: Check Shine

Casa Moda

Seidensticker

Bugatti

Olymp

SHIRTS: Stripes Siendensticker

20 menswear in ireland

Double Two

Camel Active

Roy Robson

To convert to Eden Park please contact our agent Ollie Campbell on +353 (0)1 429 5088

www.uk.eden-park.com

Facebook/EdenParkIreland

trends

TRENDS: Suits

Bugatti

Skopes

Suited and Booted Evolution, rather than evolution, tends to be the byword in men’s suiting. It’s little surprise, then, that AW14 doesn’t exactly usher in a host of radical changes for the new season’s suits.

But what can we look forward to? A wealth of great and navy, it seems. The continuation of slim silhouettes and the predominance of two-button models. More elaborate internal finishings. And, of course, the use of beautiful fabrics.

Suits you? We should think so.

Benvenuto

Digel

Daniel Graeme

22 menswear in ireland

Skopes

Carl Gross

Club of Gents

Carl Gross

winner takes all

Drapers Awards 2013

Congratulations to all the winners in the recent Drapers Awards 2013, which took place on 20 November, 2013, at Old Billingsgate in the City of London. The black-tie event, which was compered

by Irishman Dara O’Brian, drew an audience of approximately 800 people, including some of the most renowned names in the UK fashion retail industry, who were there to share in the celebrations. In a new format, the awards concentrated solely on larger fashion retailers and their suppliers and brands.

ing how “the quality never wanes”, and how the near 400-strong staff “constantly know exactly what they’re doing.”

Underling its credentials as a worthy winner of the award, John Smedley boasts a steadily growing international following, particularly in Asia, to add to its 300 UK and Republic of Ireland stockists.

Other winners on the night included Primark, which was named Fashion Retail Business of the Year and added International Fashion Retailer of the Year to its haul; and John Lewis, which took home the awards for Department Store Business of the Year category and Best Store Design (for its Exeter branch).

Menswear Brand of the Year

John Smedley

Peter Ruis, a former buying and brand director for John Lewis who moved to Jigsaw in September, 2013, was named Fashion Retailing Personality of the Year, while Hobbs scooped the honours in the Fashion Retail Business of the Year (under £125m turnover) category.

Youth fashion store River Island took home the Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year award for its collaboration with pop star Rihanna, while online success story Asos was named Fashion PurePlay Etailer of the Year.

Simon Carter

Simon Carter scooped the award for Menswear Brand of the Year, seeing off strong competition from G-Star, Ben Sherman, Duck & Cover, Lyle & Scott, who were runners-up in the category.

The judges praised Simon Carter, a leading supplier of accessories such as wallets, watches, belts, scarves and luggage, and producer of fine tailoring, for its impressive product offer and close relationship with stockists. The 28-year old menswear brand was also admired for its playful and quirky designs that resonate with its smart but somewhat experimental customers.

Others claiming awards on the night were Marks & Spencer, which won the Fashion Retailer of the Year - Consumer Choice award; London-based CDI Studio, which was named Fashion Supplier of the Year; and Seasalt and Little Mistress which took the awards for Womenswear Brand of the Year and Young Fashion Brand of the Year respectively.

Executive chairman of Aurora Fashions, Derek Lovelock, meanwhile, picked up the Lifetime Achievement award following a career that started at C&A more than 40 years ago.

Premium Fashion Brand of the Year Barbour, Dat Birger et Mikkelsen, Ted Baker and John Smedley were shortlisted in the Premium Fashion Brand of the Year category, but it was the latter that took the award on the night.

Renowned for its fine merino, cashmere and Sea Island cotton garments, the historic family-owned British company found favour with the judges for “sticking to its knitting”. The judging panel also commented on the brand’s impeccable quality control, mention-

Derek Lovelock

menswear in ireland 23

interview

EYE ON THE BALL When Ireland’s Eye Knitwear first started out in North County Dublin 40 years ago, it was very much a family business. And nothing, it seems, has changed since then. To date, no less than a grandfather, father, mother, three brothers, two sisters and eight grandchildren have been involved with the clothing company.

Over the decades, this nimble-fingered family has worked tirelessly to develop the business into a leading international knitwear brand – aided and abetted by a talented and committed workforce, many of whom have been with the company in excess of twenty years. Today, their much-loved sweaters and accessories are sold in premium and heritage stores globally.

Director, Paul O’Sullivan, talked to Menswear in Ireland about the company’s successful history and tells us why there is more to them than meets the Eye. Paul O’Sullivan (left), Managing Director with Brendan O’Sullivan, Director Ireland’s Eye Knitwear

How did Ireland’s Eye begin and how has it remained unique and successful for over 40 years?

We built the Ireland’s Eye brand by combining a traditional Irish knitwear heritage with the very best of European design, and it’s a business model that has stood us in good stead for over four decades.

Like many other family businesses, we started small and grew slowly but surely. We inherited a very strong sense of how our business should be run, including a preference for using natural yarns that are simply nicer to wear. We have always strongly believed in the need to invest in design and consistently produce garments that manage to combine a sense of the classic Irish sweater with a contemporary look that is equally at home in an Irish pub, a chic Parisian boulevard or a New York streetscape.

Our vision has always been that an Ireland’s Eye sweater should be a cocoon of warmth to shield you from the elements and that a garment is worth nothing if it is not supremely comfortable - just as comfortable at the end of a long day as at the start of a great night out - a perfect fusion of style and functionality.

The tradition of Irish knitwear is built around individual knitters and small ‘cottage industries’. We’ve strayed very little from that model over the years and it can be seen in the hand-finishing of every single garment that we produce.

In a world that seems to be growing more and more uniform, we’re convinced that people want something special – something that

24 menswear in ireland

sets them apart from the crowd. To date, this has remained the company’s ethos.

There have been many changes to Ireland’s Eye Knitwear recently, notably a bigger presence, manufacturing at home. What was the reason behind this?

Over the years, we scaled back our production in Ireland quite a bit. Recently, however, we have built up our production here again in response to customer demand. Customers are now asking for Irish knitwear that is actually made in Ireland.

“ A garment is

worth nothing if it is not supremely comfortable ”

What are the main differences between manufacturing oversees and in Ireland?

Manufacturing in Ireland is much more flexible and responsive to changing customer requirements, and production lead times are much shorter. You need these advantages because of the high cost of manufacturing here.

What do you think of the Irish fashion industry at the moment and what are the difficulties we face?

The Irish fashion industry has been going through some very tough times in recent years, just like a lot of other sectors. But it has proven itself to be resilient, time and time again, and will come out on top. The fashion industry is always very competitive and businesses in the sector are used to overcoming challenges and difficulties.

One of the main challenges we face as a manufacturer is that the small size of the market in Ireland means that companies need to export in order to grow and prosper.

What inspires your designs?

Some of our earliest memories are of our father knitting chunky sweaters in the garage of our home in Dublin. His inspiration came from the need to wrap up against the elements, the chill coastal winds whipping Ireland’s Eye and the nearby fishing village of Howth.

On top of that, our inspiration has also always been the rich heritage of Irish knitwear, interpreted, using luxurious natural yarns.

What is the secret to the company’s continued success?

There are no secrets really: just hard work.

And, hopefully, learning from the many mistakes made along the way.

News

A selection of men’s and ladies’ knitwear from Ireland’s Eye

Has there been any particular style, design or colour that has proven a consistent winner for you over the years?

Generally speaking, yarns and colours that reflect our Irish heritage and the Irish landscape.

What changes in customers’ spending patterns have you noticed over the years?

In recent years, we have noticed that consumers around the world appreciate the uniqueness of Irish made knitwear, its character and quality.

They understand that this costs more than mass-produced clothing, and they are willing to pay for it, within reason, because it is a bit special.

There was a time not so long ago when the first question a buyer would ask us would be about price.

We would be told that we were too expensive and that we were crazy to be still trying to manufacture knitwear in Ireland. Now, one of main issues on the buyer’s mind is the provenance of the knitwear, coupled with an implicit understanding that its going to cost more to have that unique and special character that you get with Irish-made knitwear.

What advice would you give to up-and-coming designers?

To any young designer leaving college, I would always advise them to spend a few years working in a clothing or knitwear manufacturing business, and to gain experience in as many facets of the business as possible, from design, to production and sales.

What can we expect from Ireland’s Eye Knitwear in the future?

We will continue to evolve and reinvent ourselves in response to ever-changing customer trends and requirements. This will involve ‘sticking to the knitting’, but having regard to fashion, yarn and colour trends of the day.

Ireland’s Eye has been supplying natural Irish knitwear to customers in Ireland and all over the world for more than 40 years. With the next generation of our family already showing early signs of interest, we’re set for a fourth generation to carry forward the tradition of Ireland’s Eye Knitwear for many years to come.

menswear in ireland 25

showtalk

Showtalk WHO’S NEXT 25-28 JANUARY, COPENHAGEN Paris and Copenhagen continue collaborating for their A/W editions.

This year, Who’s Next visitors can also enter the Copenhagen Fashion Week fairs, while visitors who register for Copenhagen’s trade shows can, similarly, enter the Parisian event.

The French edition runs from 25-28 January and is succeeded by the Danish fair one day later on 29 January, continuing until 2 February.

This partnership has multiple aims, including showcasing European unity, while simultaneously developing both events’ international audience. Visitors only have to register once to access both destinations.

This is a first in the world’s fashion trade show sector. This partnership could be extended, in the months to come, to other leading European events in this sector.

From watches, socks, cashmere and bags to paper products, umbrellas, bike lights, blankets and more, the event will host up to 30 high quality and original exhibitors. Brands confirmed for the forthcoming event include Marcus De, Iconic, South Lane, Johnstons of Elgin, Midori, Morrows Socks Veras, Drakes of London, Oxford Socks, Il Bussetto, Chapman Bags, London Undercover, Field Notes, Pendleton, Mr NN, DS & Durga, Schiesser, Bookman Lights, General Knot & Co and Knight Mills.

Further details online at detail-london.com

GALLERY COPENHAGEN 29–31 JANUARY, COPENHAGEN Copenhagen’s Gallery is currently offering guests and visitors numerous benefits when they register for the trade show.

These include free access to several fashion fairs during the Copenhagen Fashion Week (Gallery, CIFF, CIFF Kids and Vision); free trains and shuttles between fairs, from Sweden and from Copenhagen airport; as well as free drinks and dinner for the Gallery Dinner, which takes place on Wednesday 29 January.

Gallery also promises 350 exhibiting brands at their event, while Copenhagen Fashion Week is set to host 2400 exhibiting brands in total.

What’s more, Gallery, CIFF and Vision are now collaborating with Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris, the world’s biggest fair located in France. Visitors with Who’s Next badges can enter CFW fairs as well.

DETAIL 5-6 FEBRUARY, LONDON Borne out of a prospering market, Detail is a new and unique men’s trade show that is solely dedicated to accessories and lifestyle products.

Launching in London in February, 2014, the inaugural show aims to provide a well-edited collection of both new and existing sought-after brands with a platform to showcase their wares to cultivated buyers and press associates alike.

Accessories and lifestyle specific, Detail gives this sector of the market a focus and identity that aims to help both buyer and seller realise opportunities currently marginalised.

26 menswear in ireland

MOMAD METROPOLIS 14-16 FEBRUARY, IFEMA CONVENTION & CONGRESS CENTRE, MADRID, SPAIN Following a successful launch in September 2013, when the inaugural Momad Metropolis attracted 17,423 professionals from some 70 different countries, the second staging of the most comprehensive trade showcase for the Clothing, Footwear and Accessories industry on the Iberian Peninsula takes place from 14-16 February when it will coincide with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), the grand promotional showcase for Spanish fashion to be held from 14-18 February in Hall 14.1.

Organised by IFEMA, the trade fair – which is the result of combining SIMM and Modacalzado+Iberpiel, the two grand trade events devoted to clothing, footwear and accessories - will be attended by a large number of manufacturers, suppliers and retailers of all kinds of clothing items, shoes and fashion accessories to develop good business relationships with the potential customers.

By exploring new business strategies and opportunities with the exhibitors and also by establishing new business contacts with the potential customers, these manufacturers and suppliers can bring some improvement and advancement in clothing and footwear industries.

menswear in ireland 27

showtalk MODA GENT 16-18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM

GDS 12-14 MARCH, DÜSSELDORF

Offering the top pick of major international names, retail favourites and new launches from across the menswear industry, Moda Gent is established as one of the leading UK shows for contemporary and mainstream designs.

For the next edition of GDS, the international event for shoes and accessories, some 800 exhibitors from over 30 countries will be showcasing their wares.

The February edition will boast some of the biggest names in menswear alongside add-on products such as intimate apparel, belts, ties, hats and bags.

Visitors to the forthcoming event will find the best in contemporary, urban, lifestyle and tailoring designs across a series of dedicated catwalks in Hall 17.

For those seeking more directional designs, Select is located on the border between Moda Footwear and Moda Gent, and will bring together a host of contemporary brands in one dedicated area.

Making its debut here is the long-established shoemaking firm, Rizzolli. T&F Slack Shoemaker London will also be revealing its colourful brogues, while Delle Cose will be presenting its new bag collection.

Joining them will be stylish, well-known labels such as Melik/Sergio Paganelli and Rosa Mosa. Children’s shoes will be represented by exciting European names like Little Mary, Red Rag Develab and Zandbergen Celebrating its twentieth edition at GDS is the trendy Design Attack area. Its latest theme is Alpine Rockers’ Barn, which will feature an exciting mix of independent urban and underground fashion set against the backdrop of idyllic Alpine life with a dash of roaring motorbikes and gritty rockers thrown in for good measure!

From July 2014, however, GDS will have a new approach along with a new schedule: 30 July to 1 August, 2014.

MODA FOOTWEAR 16-18 FEBRUARY, BIRMINGHAM A host of fresh faces will debut at Moda Footwear this A/W as the show welcomes iconic brands and European success stories to its new season line-up.

Luxurious leathers are set to be a prominent feature across both men’s and women’s design this season.

Iconic British footwear giant Dr Martens will join the February edition of Moda show for the first time to present its full range of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear, while Spanish brand Luis Gonzalo will be exhibiting a range of fine leather shoes.

Brands making their Moda Footwear debut include Sorel, Minnetonka, Blundstone and Elvetik.

28 menswear in ireland

collections

Collection Reports BRAX Great Britain provides the inspiration behind the AW collection, a comprehensive range that is characterised by urban, stylish British fashion statements and boasts an aesthetic that is both adult and sporty.

Fashion highlights include elegant five-pockets in soft winter satin in a reactive final finish, and twin-side fabrics in wintery contrasts. Assorted denims provide the season’s fashion essential while waxed outdoor fabrics, multi-colour checks on coloured backgrounds and small repeats add accents to the segment of tops.

Deep red, strong blue gradings, black and new shades of green are the dominant shades in the seasonal palette.

BRUHL A well-structured collection that encompasses a wealth of styles, trousers for AW are upgraded by modern linings and colour-coordinated lasered quality buttons.

Spice shades and natural shades from curry to pepper feature alongside shades of green and blue in an appealing palette in which highlights are again set by wash-out effects.

The brand’s established features have been gently updated and further improved with the use of new qualities such as a sporty CotelÊ, a robust denim, and new cotton textures coupled with the new modern stretch waistband.

Established, strong NOS articles, meanwhile, still provide the classic customer with the security of continuity.

BUGATTI The new season ushers in a wealth of smart clothing and a host of changes for AW. Outer fabrics in suiting all have small patterns, including Tattersall check, which are slightly distressed and do not have a heavy appearance. The three-piece suit gets another airing and appears predominantly in a rolling 3-button version. Colours are still every shade of blue along with grey, brown and black.

A comfortable waisted fit and contemporary collar set the trend in shirting where coloured buttons, colour stitching on buttonholes, contrasting patterns inside cuffs and bands provide restrained but eye-catching details. Coats, meanwhile, are notably shorter, slightly fitted and embellished with smart detail.

menswear in ireland 29

CAMEL ACTIVE The AW14 collection, entitled ‘Crafted Evolution’, is all about minimalism and concentrating on the essentials. Treatments such as garment dying or garment washing create more subtle, worn-look effects. Key styles on the other hand, such as deliberately shorter bomber jackets and longer parkas in robust cotton fabrics, feature understated pocket facings and applications. The use of material blends or leather trimmings underscores the brand’s core.

Shapes and silhouettes are reinterpreted with hybrid style elements. The parka presents surprising duffle coat elements and the two-colour bomber jacket has field jacket characteristics. Hoods with fur trims and individual features, such as two-way zippers, genuine horn buttons, corded ribbons, cords and elbow patches, are used selectively and emphasise the garments’ high quality.

The seasonal colour range is complemented by an array of grey shades with bottle-green, berry and petrol hues. Accents are delivered by ochre yellow and burnt orange.

CARL GROSS Available from Gosson Agencies Ltd., the Carl Gross AW collection sees an emphasis on fit and fashionable silhouettes in the Modern Business segment’s suits, where the best-selling silhouettes, Basic Fit and Modern Fit, are complemented by a new body shape, the Sharp Fit. Two-button models remain predominant and reveal slightly steeper shoulder lines, softer shoulder finishings softer and slimmer sleeves slimmer.

Silhouettes for jackets – which are designed for wear in both the street and the workplace – are slim thanks to a new Sharp Fit which enhances the trend towards figure-oriented lines. Trousers, meanwhile, feature in a number of styles, including jeans, chinos, upmarket blue denim and coated denim in grey and black. Silhouettes remain slim, the details subdued and more inconspicuous.

FIRST FOR TROUSERS Gordon Shanny Phone: 061 349090 Fax: 061 341366 Mobile: 061 868 154 555 E-mail: gordonshanny@eircom.net

www.c-bruehl.com

30 menswear in ireland

CASAMODA Casual and formal designs abound in an impressive collection based around a palette of muted green, autumnal rusts, bordeaux and saffron yellow.

Clear, masculine shirts and knitwear designs make an unequivocal statement in fashionable designs. Along with elaborate details and new finishes, shirts are supplemented by items such as denim, mĂŠlange, thermal flannels, printed cord and sporty minimal prints, all adding visual interest.

The NOS segment is more important than ever before, and is rounded off by sporty bestsellers. The new NOS articles include a multi-coloured check in three colourways: natural/blue, light blue/ blue & red/blue. Another highlight is the new jeans shirt with striking check facings, contrasting tapes and specially developed buttons.

CLUB OF COMFORT The overall theme is the homestead, so fabrics and patterns are warm, rustic, strong and natural. However, modern technology has been given a special place in their new designs, with additional pockets for Smartphones and headphones all seamlessly integrated into the garments. Fabrics include corduroy, wool and velvet cotton with colours leaning towards earthy browns, rich reds and burnt oranges.

Paul Lynch Lynch Agencies 62A Lower Camden Street, Dublin 2 Mobile: +353 (0)87 146 6528 E-mail: paul@lynchagencies.com menswear in ireland 31

collections

DOUBLE TWO A broad range of warm and cosy check design shirts in double-brushed cotton keeps the cold winter at bay and is based around an attractive palette of blue, red, leaf, gold and plum.

Classic cadet stripes are offered in blue, cherry & charcoal, and mix & match designs in blue and purple checks and matching stripes intermixed on inner cuffs and collarbands.

Shirts in the formal collection, meanwhile, feature a new, slimmed-down and more flattering fit with slightly less fabric around the body, while the premier ‘Paradigm’ label features classic and richly-toned stripe designs for the city business man. Key colours here include red, grape, cobalt, raspberry and purple, all of which are woven in noniron Microtwill fabric.

EDEN PARK A strong collection inspired by the latest trends, the new range is characterised by stripes, embroidered logos, contrasting fabrics and colours, trims, oval-shaped buttons and Eden Park’s embroidered bowtie logo, which are used elegantly in a “French-style Preppy” look which mixes modernity and tradition.

Eccentricity is the principal theme of the Casual Vintage range which

features washed-effect products, cotton-cashmere ‘garment dyed’ products and military-style wool and camouflage printed cottons.

The Casual Club range, meanwhile, is inspired by the English trends.

Fashion highlights include motor jackets, bomber jackets and perfectos, which appear alongside pleated trousers, hats and scarves.

ETERNA Shirts in the AW collection appear in a considerably more modern and vibrantly coloured guise than in recent seasons. Handsome details, attractive textures and shank patterns as well as visually dynamic surfaces, minimal prints and faux­plains dominate the range, making for a wealth of visual interest.

A choice of fits - Comfort Fit (classic), Modern Fit (tapered) and Slim Fit (figure-hugging) styles – provide great choice in a collection characterised by finely crafted details.

Formal shirts tend to feature less in the way of breast pockets, whilst collar and cuff styles have been modernised. The casual range, meanwhile, has been strikingly updated with new buttons, washed looks, visually dynamic seams and Oxford shirts with super soft details.

The NOS range differs perceptibly in terms of colours and finishes from the AW collection. The modern look, as expressed by minimal prints, patching and colour contrast buttons, features prominently here.

HATICO The Hatico Sport shirt shows a casual look in the new colours and designs of the season. Checks feature prominently throughout the collection in a host of colours. Stripes, meanwhile are used more selectively throughout the collection and appear in a number of new tonal stripes in different shades and colourways.

Poplins, lightly brushed fabrics, twills and flannels in different weights are the key materials for AW14 while red, green, aqua, violet, viola, orange, yellow/gold and blue shades are the principle colours that dictate the palette.

Detailing is impressive throughout the range. Inside cuffs and the inside of the collar stands are decorated while buttons have been selected quite carefully and are often sewed in a contrast colour. Print designs, meanwhile, are typically minimalistic.

32 menswear in ireland

JOCKEY A fashion adventure trip that satisfies every preference in a comprehensive range, Jockey’s AW collection combines wintry colours bursting with on-trend, bold accents with innovative designs and motifs.

Sporty masculine looks in the Underwear, Nightwear and Loungewear segment convey a feeling of perfect wellbeing for the modern-day man who knows exactly what he wants.

KNIGHTSBRIDGE NECKWEAR Knightsbridge Neckwear offers a diverse collection that encompasses ties, scarves, cravats, bowties and pocket squares. Designs are available in a number of elegant and fashionable styles. Ties are available in distinctive tweed, velvet, and a silk/cotton/linen blend, as well as in casual silk knitted designs; while bowties are available in tweed, velvet, seersucker and silk.

Dapper options abound for pocket squares, meanwhile, which come in numerous tweed, velvet, seersucker and silk designs, as well as casual silk day cravats. Completing the collection is an extensive range of scarves that encompasses everything from velvet and contemporary silk cashmere blended designs to silk-printed aviator mod dress scarves.

Knightsbridge Neckwear will be exhibiting at trade events including INDX, Solihull (28-30 January); Jacket Required, Shoreditch (5-6 February); Moda Gent, stand ME28 (16-18 February); and Select, stand SE18 (16-18 February). All Knightsbridge ranges are stock service. Further details online at www. knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk

D_PLAKAT_SYLVESTER_A.indd 1

Three Exciting collections to view for Autumn Winter 2014 CITY - Mens Formalwear | CASUAL - Deminwear | PRE END LIFESTYLE - Casuals; coordinates; shirts & knitwear.

For appointments contact menswear in ireland 33 Paul Butler, Liv Clothing Ltd., 12, Mountjoy Square North, Dublin 1. T: 087 646 8890 E:paulfmbutler@gmail.com

collections

LERROS Lerros’ AW collection continues its successful formula of providing high-quality modern menswear at competitive price points.

A masculine palette is used in a comprehensive range of sportswear aimed at the style-conscious, 30+ gent.

New for AW is Lerros Smart Casual, which offers fashionable shirt styles for the office and evening wear. Shirts in the new line are created in the label’s best-selling Modern Fit and boast special contrast fabrics, an easy care finish and collar stays.

Also available is Lerros’ NOS system, which offers the retailer the opportunity to increase sales and profits through permanent availability in the required sizes, thereby reducing storage risk and money tied up in capital.

OLYMP For Olymp’s latest collection of shirts, ties, knitwear, structure dominates. Throughout, there is an exciting mixture of patterns, rich colours and diverse fabrics, all of which give the garments a relaxed and natural look. Techniques such as bleaching and stone-washing have also been used to further create this effortless vibe.

PRE END

Farrells Farrells Farrells

Knightsbridge Neckwear by

It’sIt’s notnot what you wear, it’sit’s how youwear wear it. it. what you how wear It’s not what youwear, wear, it’s how youyou it.

Casual meets Casual meetsFormal Formal Casual meets Formal

SORRENTO

Showing at AIS Show and Jacket Required London, February 5-6 Moda Gent, Stand ME28 Moda Select, Stand SE18

SSORRENTO ORRENTO

Tel: 01677 424020 Fax: 01677 424080

Email: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk

Web: www.farrellsneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk View our new collection at Stitch Menswear, 15th - 16th July & Aimex, 1st - 2nd August

Tel:Tel: 01677 424020 Fax: 01677 424080 T: 01677 F: 01677 424020 Fax: 424080 Email: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk E: Email: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk Web: www.farrellsneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk Web: www.farrellsneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk

Whole Collection Stock Service View ourour new collection at Stitch Menswear, 15th - 16th July View new collection at Stitch Menswear, 15th - 16th July & Aimex, 1st - 2nd August &Ireland Aimex, 1st -Kerr 2nd August Northern Martin 0044 7775 575668 Southern Eire Kevin Moynihan 087 9906172

34 menswear in ireland

A comprehensive menswear range from Danish brand Pre End, the AW14 collection comprises three distinct lines: City, which includes elegant formalwear; the fashionable Casual line, which boasts a strong denimwear range; and Pre End Lifestyle, which incorporates relaxed casuals, chunky knitwear, assorted shirts and stylish co-ordinates.

Available through Paul Butler, Pre End is a well-priced collection that caters to all sectors of the menswear sector, and aims to provide the retailer with the highest margins and the greatest opportunity for growth by combining superb quality with extremely attractive prices. Unlike with many other Danish brands, stockists are able to select the colours they desire and re-order the sizes required.

SEIDENSTICKER Wonderfully diverse in scope, Seidensticker’s AW collection comprises fours distinct lines, each with their own look, style and palette.

The Splendesto segment, for instance, offers a wide range of themes and colours such as burgundy, carmine, berry, pine green and navy.

Detailing is a strong feature and appears in the form of contrast fabrics and contrast stitching neck ribbons. New styles, together with new colours and shapes of buttons, as well as innovative prints, provide the fashion highlights.

Visually disparate options are found elsewhere in the range. The Schwarze Rose segment, for example, is characterised by micro designs and features assorted structured qualities, visual Piquee imitations and classic poplin qualities.

D2_MenswearIreland2014-ARTWORK_Layout 1 14/01/2014 16:24 Page 1

www.doubletwo.co.uk

FORMAL SHIRTS

Look Sharp AutumnWinter 2014 See us at: Moda UK, NEC, Birmingham, 16 - 18 February 2014, Hall 20 - Stand MC19 For more details contact: Billy Casey Tel: 01 289 5807 (R.O.I.) Mervyn Boyd Tel: 02891 458655 (N.I.) Head Office: +44 (0)1924 375651 Email: doubletwo@wsg.co.uk

menswear in ireland 35

collections

SHINE A cutting-edge denim brand with a Danish design heritage, Shine’s AW range impresses with a diverse and innovative collection of high-quality jeans that spans everything from classic to contemporary.

Detailing is a key detail on many of the modern styles, marking the jeans stand out from their competitors. Fits range from loosefit to twisted, tapered, slim and regular, while colours and washes run the gamut, offering choice for every taste.

A range of tops impresses with its high-quality finish and design flair. Check shirts provide a fashion highlight alongside assorted gilets, zip-up jackets, knits, sweats and T-shirts.

SKOPES The shiny suit is still key for the season, but checks and textured cloths are more and more prevalent.

An extended Luxury Collection range of Pure New Wool suits features classic city staples, such as navy blue fine herringbone and charcoal birdseye in a tailored fit, as well as a mid-grey flannel in a neat fitting double-breasted design.

New colours and cloths have been introduced to the ‘Heritage Collection’ of tweed and county check cloths, along with a revamp of the luxurious ‘Soft Touch’ range.

SUNWILL CASUAL Available through Paul Lynch, Sunwill is a Danish trouser specialist which, in addition to its seasonal collections, has a comprehensive stock programme from Ireland which is available for next day delivery.

The AW14 collection is practical and fashionable, offering everyday wear for men of all ages. A broad range of fits is offered, without compromising comfort, style or quality. High-quality materials, such as stretch fabrics in cottons and wools with interesting fabric details and design features, ensure superb comfort levels while exclusive manufacturing ensures ideal fit and comfort.

36 menswear in ireland

Trade Buyers Only REGISTER NOW: www.londonedge.com

Punk. Rock. Retro. Vintage. Music Merch. Street.

The National Hall, Olympia, London, W14. UK.