Menswear in Ireland by Sky Publishing

JANUARY 2015

VOX POP

HOW IRISH RETAILERS FARED IN THE RUN-UP TO CHRISTMAS

SUITS YOU, SIR

THE KEY TRENDS IN SUITING FOR AW 15/16

SHOWTALK

THE LOW-DOWN ON THE BEST MEN’S TRADE SHOWS

FASHION FOCUS

THE FINEST IN MENSWEAR FOR AW 15/16

See our new AW15 Collections at: INDX Menswear Show Tuesday 27th - Thursday 29th January 2015 Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre

MODA Gent Exhibition Sunday 15th - Tuesday 17th February 2015 NEC Birmingham

For more information contact Sinead Gosson T 01-6706525 F 01-6706526 E gossonagencies@eircom.net Gosson Agencies Ltd 22 Forbes Street Sir John Rogersons Quay Dublin 2

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MENSWEAR LONDON

HERBIE FROGG IS BACK

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CONTENTS

WELCOME A very warm welcome to our January issue of Menswear, the first edition of 2015.

Christmas may seem but a distant memory at this stage but, judging by the comments and feedback of many independent retailers, it’s certainly not one that they’d rather forget. With many reporting rises in footfall and, crucially, average customer spend, Christmas 2014 was one that had shop tills ringing regularly. But what were the best-sellers? Was anything slow to shift? And have retailers promoted their respective businesses? Six of the country’s finest indies answer these and various other questions in our Vox Pop feature on page 20. A new calendar year ushers in many things, not least a new trade show calendar. As ever, we’ve compiled the need-to-know on the best tradeshows in the menswear calendar over the coming months. From Panorama Berlin and GDS to MOMAD Metropolis and Moda Gent, they’re all here in our Showtalk section on page 10. If recent years have been characterised by the sad closures of a number of menswear retailers, some of which had been long-standing, it’s heartening to observe the return of confidence to the market, as witnessed by a spate of new openings. Our interview on page 17 is with the Conor Rhatigan, the owner of Castle & Drury, one of the most recent additions to Dublin city centre’s menswear scene. Our fashion focus this issue is on the forthcoming AW 15/16 season. In addition to an overview of the key menswear collections, which can be found on pages 22-26, we’ve compiled trends reports on both the season’s suits and the key colours for menswear. With all this and much more, including a Shopcall visit to Galway and a comprehensive round-up of the key news, moves and developments within the menswear industry, there’s plenty to keep you informed until we meet again next month. In the meantime, may I take this opportunity to thank all our readers for their continued and much-appreciated support, and to wish you all the very best for a healthy, happy and successful year ahead. We’re back next month when we’ll be continuing our focus on AW 15/16 and will be looking at casual wear, jeans and denim wear, knitwear, underwear and, of course, more of the best menswear collections. Best wishes, Alexander Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor mail@skypublishing.ie

SEE US ON

Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing Ltd., 5 Main Street, Blackrock, Co. Dublin. Telephone: 01 283 6782 Email: info@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith, Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing Ltd. 2015.

COVER IMAGE: CASA MODA AW15/16

CONTENTS 4 NEWS

The latest news, moves and developments in the menswear sector

10 SHOWTALK

A guide to the forthcoming trade shows

14 TRENDS: KEY COLOURS

The shades and palettes of choice for AW 15/16

15 TRENDS: SUITING

A look ahead to the key trends for men’s suits for AW 15/16

17 KING OF THE CASTLE

Conor Rhatigan of Castle & Drury talks about his exciting new men’s store

20 VOX POP: THE LEAD UP TO CHRISTMAS

Six retailers share their views and experiences of the run-up to the festive period

22 COLLECTION REPORTS

A look at latest menswear collections for AW 15/16

32 SHOPCALL

Our mystery shopper pays an unscheduled visit to Joe Green’s in Galway MENSWEAR in Ireland | 3

NEWS

BREAD & BUTTER CANCELS JANUARY 2015 EDITION The planned edition of Berlin’s Bread & Butter in January 2015 was cancelled due to a decline in interest from exhibitors. Instead, the organisers presented a lastminute, alternative concept entitled Bread & Butter – Back to the Street. Referring to the cancellation, Manager Director Karl-Heinz Müller said: “Not least due to self-inflicted turbulences, we have not been able to motivate a sufficient number of exhibitors to participate this season. “I am convinced of the fact that our success concept cannot be continued by repeating the past. Maybe something great has to end so that something new can arise. Our whole fashion industry is

HERBIE FROGG RELAUNCHES IN IRELAND FOR AW 15/16 The iconic Herbie Frogg brand, which was the label of choice for many dapper gents, musicians and the ‘rich and famous’ in the swinging Sixties, is set to be re-launched for AW 15/16. Expected to have a broad appeal amongst the fashion-conscious demographic, Herbie Frogg is now a complete menswear collection comprising suits, shirts, ties, shoes and 4 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

at a point of radical change. This is why challenges of the future have to be met with new solutions.” Bread & Butter, which was established in 2001, has been a leading trade show for ready-to-wear fashion. Following the cancellation, the management was forced to file for insolvency. The attorney, Christian Graf Brockdorff (BBL), was appointed preliminary receiver in insolvency. Referring to the insolvency, Müller noted: “Many will understand how painful taking this step was for me. But due to legal obligations, I had no other choice.” Brockdorff stated: “At Bread & Butter, I have met a highly-motivated team of specialists who have expressed their strong will to continue the company’s activities. “This is why my team and I will offer our greatest possible support to this Berlin flagship company, in order to secure the financial recovery and the continuation of the business.”

overcoats, all of which are characterised by high-quality designs and very competitive prices. The brand will come to the market in autumn on two levels - Purple Label and a limited edition collection - each of which will have its own unique handwriting and trim level, whilst retaining many details and ideas from its heritage, such as a signature Herbie Frogg lapel pin, the use of luxury fabrics and updated fit shapes in carefully selected styles and blocks. John and Christian Lawlor of Threadweave Agencies have been appointed the agents in Ireland for Herbie Frogg. Viewings are by appointment on 01-456 9333.

SPENDING RETURNS TO IRISH ECONOMY It appears that Irish consumers are once again happy to part with their hard-earned cash, with motors, five-star holidays and fine-dining restaurants in particular all experiencing a boost in demand. What’s more, the latest report from Wolfgang Digital has shown a massive increase in online spending with Irish companies. Their Irish E-Commerce Study for the second quarter of this year shows that revenues have increased by 51 per cent, while website traffic is up by 30 per cent. KBC Bank Ireland Chief Economist Austin Hughes says that this return to spending signifies that confidence amongst punters has returned on account of the many encouraging developments within the domestic economy, including a drop in unemployment and a rise in property prices.

VIRTUAL MIRRORS AND SELFSERVICE TILLS FOR INDITEX Spain’s Inditex, which owns many of the world’s leading fashion brands including Zara, Massimo Dutti and Bershka, is trialling virtual mirrors and self-service tills in its Arteixo headquarters in northern Spain. The mirrors are designed to allow customers to try on clothes virtually, while the self-service tills will enable shoppers to pay for garments and remove tags themselves. Inditex is at the fore of new technology development but it is unclear if these new additions will find their way into the group’s 6,500 stores across 88 countries. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 4

CONTENTS

SALES GROWTH FOR KILDARE VILLAGE Kildare Village, Ireland’s largest outlet shopping complex, had plenty to celebrate this Christmas, posting double-digit sales growth for the year. This uptick was largely due to a return in consumer confidence, following many years of austerity, which translated to a five-percent increase in visitors to nearly 2.5 million people. This boost is partially attributed to a rise in shoppers from Asia. Value Retail Dublin, the owner and developer of the centre, had revenues of just under €7 million last year, but interest on loans to build the complex cost it €6.6 million. Kildare Village opened in 2006, boasting

12 outlets. Last year, this number had grown to 64, a 98 per cent occupancy rate. Work is well under way on the new €50 million phase of the complex. This expansion is crucial for Kildare Village to make itself relevant to international tourists, notably the aforementioned Asian market that often make travel decisions based on the availability of American and European brands in the host destination’s retail sector. Chinese customers typically spend four times as much as an Irish shopper. Earlier this year, Irish and British governments offered Chinese and Indian tourists single visas so that they can freely travel between the two countries. Value Retail owns nine discount shopping centres in Europe, of which Kildare Village is the second best-performing centre. New additions to the Kildare outlet include Kurt Geiger Boutique, Barbour and American label, Kate Spade.

CORK FASHION FESTIVAL ANNOUNCES PROGRAMME The Cork Fashion Festival, which took place in the city in November, revealed an actionpacked line-up including a unique trunk show that showcased some of the best upand-coming Irish designers. Some of these emerging names were Emily Waszak, Claire Hurley, Edel Macbride, Sean Byrne-Dublin, Claire Garvey, bdLuxded and Kate Ramsey, all of whom specialise in various sartorial fields from womenswear to knitwear to couture.

There was also a Mexican Rebozo parade where attendees enjoyed 20 traditional and modern designs, brought directly from Mexico, a practical media and fashion workshop, as well as fashion presentations by students of UCC. Key sponsors for the event were Newbridge Silverware and the Museum of Style Icons, the Mexican Embassy, Aztec Money, University College Cork, Corona Extra and San Luis Potosi.

RAFAEL NADAL REVEALED AS BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR HILFIGER The Tommy Hilfiger Group has announced that internationally renowned tennis star Rafael Nadal will appear as the global brand ambassador for the Tommy Hilfiger underwear and Tommy Hilfiger Tailored collections beginning in Autumn 2015. “Rafael Nadal has been a long-time personal friend and supporter of our brand, and I’m continuously inspired by his dedication and passion for his sport,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “Rafael embodies an effortless sense of style that exemplifies and reflects our brand spirit – he’s confident, fun and cool.” The campaign imagery will be photographed in early 2015 in Spain and it will break globally in Autumn 2015 with dedicated print, online, and out-of-home media placements worldwide. “I’ve always admired Tommy Hilfiger’s cool, all-American designs which are sophisticated and easy to wear, and I’m excited to be partnering with the brand,” said Rafael Nadal, the 14-time Grand Slam winner. The Autumn 15 Tommy Hilfiger underwear collection refreshes classic styles with updated fits, revamped fabrics and elevated details. The collection features sharp silhouettes, modern tailoring and rich textures.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 5

NEWS

NEW PANTS RANGE FROM ALBERTO For A/W 15/16, Alberto introduces their Cosy Pants, a new collection of trousers that bridges the gap between office and casualwear, day and eveningwear. The Cosy Pants emphasise the importance of cuts, materials, design and contrast - attributes that have made the label so popular in the fashion world. The skilful twist of masculine shapes and comfortable high-quality fabrics - now with sportswear elements - give the garments a relaxed vibe. The Cosy Jeans celebrate the rough classic denim look, while the Smart Dressy variety is both elegant and comfortable at the same time. The Smart Drawcord Pants are made of high-quality woollen fabrics; the Smart Jersey Jogging Pants exude a casual air thanks to the use of cotton, while the Veggie Leather is both snug and on trend.

TAOISEACH LAUNCHES SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY With the assistance of Taoiseach Enda Kenny, Retail Excellence Ireland recently launched their Small Business Saturday in Ireland initiative. Small Business Saturday started as a grassroots, non-political, non-commercial campaign, and aims to highlight the success of small businesses, while also

encouraging consumers to shop locally in their communities. The day itself takes place on the first shopping Saturday in December each year. In 2014, that day was Saturday, 6 December. Speaking at the launch, CEO of REI David Fitzsimons said: “This is a campaign which profiles small business and encourages consumers to shop locally and support jobs and enterprises in their respective communities. It is a social media and marketing campaign that provides local businesses with the collateral that they need to inform consumers on the power of their local spend.”

WARM WEATHER HITS PRIMARK SALES GROWTH TK MAXX SET TO OPEN SIX NEW STORES Discount retailer, TK Maxx, plans to open a further six stores in Ireland next year. The group, which currently has 20 stores across the country after opening a further three this year in Navan, the Ilac Centre and the Dundrum Town Centre, had revenues of €143 million in the 53 weeks up to 2 February 2013. It made close to €12 million pre-tax profit and paid a €15 million dividend to its US parent, TJX Group. The forthcoming expansion is expected to generate over 300 new jobs. 6 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Associated British Foods said underlying sales at its Primark discount fashion chain, which operates as Penneys in Ireland, were below expectations in the first two months of its 14/15 year. This decline was attributed to the unseasonably warm weather throughout autumn and winter. In a statement released following its annual shareholders’ meeting in early December, the firm said that while total sales at Primark were more than 10 per cent ahead of last year, driven by new store openings, sales at stores that were open over a year were below its expectations. The company added that there was limited possibility for growth in adjusted earnings per share in the 2014-15 period but insisted that it was hopeful of progress

in the future. These claims were echoed by industry experts who are also optimistic for the future of Penney’s on account of their expansion into new territories across North America and Continental Europe.

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Stephen Lynch, 62A Lower Camden Street, Dublin 2, Ireland mobile: +353 (0) 87 256 5706, email: stephen@lynchagencies.com

NEWS

DRAPERS AWARDS RECOGNISES BEST IN THE RETAIL INDUSTRY

The winners of 2014’s Drapers Awards were announced at the annual ceremony that celebrates the very best brands, designers and businesses in retail. Now in its 24th year, the recent awards were held at London’s Old Billingsgate in November with over 800 guests present. Reflecting on the night, Eric Musgrave, Drapers’ editorial director, said: “Once again, the Drapers Awards has spotlighted the immense talents that exist within the fashion retailing sector. Despite the continually challenging trading environment, our retail winners and those from the supplier side of the business have shown themselves to be both creative and commercially adept. This was a great night for a great industry.” Primark was awarded both International Retailer of the Year and Best Store Design of the Year, while Curvy Kate and Without Prejudice scooped Womenswear and Menswear Brand of the Year, respectively. Bon Marche was named Fashion Retail Business of the Year and John Lewis was recognised as Department Store Business of the Year. Other winners on the night included Jacques Vert Group (Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year), Boohoo.com (Fashion Pure-Play Etailer of the Year), Jigsaw (Fashion Retail Business of the Year), Karpelle (Fashion Supplier of the Year), Marc Cain (Premium Brand of the Year), Lipsy (Young Fashion Brand of the Year), Marks & Spencer (Fashion Retailer of the Year – Consumer Choice) and Net-A-Porter’s Mark Sebba and Natalie Massenet (Fashion Personality of the Year Award). 8 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

FIRST INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR IRISH DESIGN 2015 OPENS In the Making, the inaugural exhibition of Irish Design 2015, opened on 30 December in The Coach House, Dublin Castle, coinciding with the capital’s New Year’s Eve Festival. This touring exhibition, which was organised by the Design Museum, London, and curated by international designers Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby, highlights the breadth of Irish design significance. Two objects were commissioned by Barber and Osgerby for In the Making’s stay in Dublin: a traditional Boyne River currach by Meitheal Mara, and the Triathlon Total Knee System, an artificial knee joint, by Stryker, with accompanying short films of the production process. Brought to Dublin in partnership with London’s Design Museum, In the Making is the first in a series of international design exhibitions being hosted in Dublin as part of Irish Design 2015, a year-long programme exploring, promoting and celebrating Irish design and designers nationally and internationally. The

OLYMP-BEZNERSTIFTUNG DOUBLES BANDUNG LEARNING CENTRE DONATIONS Indonesia, with about 240 million inhabitants, is not only one of the biggest countries in Asia but also one of the most important production sites in the world. Germany’s Olymp-Bezner has a long tradition of manufacturing in the region and so, Olymp-Bezner-Stiftung, the company’s charitable foundation, is making a donation of €10,000, an increase of €5,000 from the previous three years, to the community learning centre of PKBM Buana Mekar for the procurement of new school furniture,

exhibition will run until St Patrick’s Day. Laura Magahy, Executive Chairman of ID2015 says: “In the Making is a really interesting opportunity for people to see what’s involved in designing objects - to get an insider’s view of the process.” Irish Design 2015 was launched in early December by Minister for Jobs, Enterprise and Innovation, Richard Bruton TD, and Minister for Business and Employment, Ged Nash TD, and the project is expected to create up to 1800 jobs over three years through sales of design-led products and services, generating an additional €10m in design-based exports. Other highlights throughout Irish Design 2015 include the establishment of sectoral and regional design networks across the island of Ireland to stimulate economic growth and encourage investment and collaboration in the design sector, as well as the creation of a design innovation fund, which will see the initiation of a diverse range of projects such as workshops, conferences and events.

desks, chairs and computers. Eberhard Bezner, co-founder of Olymp-Bezner-Stiftung, says: “[We are] endeavouring to specifically support solid and trustworthy schools with donations for learner-friendly equipment and other educational aids, in order to improve the future prospects of young people.” For 25 years, Olymp-Bezner has been collaborating with PT. Metro Garmin from Bandung in the manufacturing of upmarket ready-made shirts. In 2010, they both decided to financially support the PKBM Buana Mekar centre on an on-going basis.

THE MARKETPL ACE FOR LEADING BRANDS I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA SH I ON T R A DE SHO W | 19 – 2 1 J A N 2 0 15 www.panorama-berlin.com

SHOWTALK

PANORAMA BERLIN 19-21 JANUARY BERLIN, GERMANY

One of the most comprehensive offerings of trends and tendencies of the coming season, the January 2015 edition of Panorama Berlin will present a contemporary and relevant selection of men’s and ladies’ collections, shoes and accessories by market leading brands. Ever since its launch in January 2013, the new fashion trade fair has enhanced

CIFF

29 JANUARY – 1 FEBRUARY, 2015 COPENHAGEN, DENMARK The trade fair landscape of Copenhagen Fashion Week has undergone significant changes since last season and the next edition, which will take place over three days from 29 January to 1 February, 2015, will consists of three major trade fairs: CIFF at Bella Center and two newly established trade fairs - CIFF Raven and Revolver. The two trade fairs Gallery at Forum and Vision at Øksnehallen have closed. CIFF Raven is a selective and carefully curated men’s collections

10 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

the offerings of Berlin Fashion Week with a select portfolio of top international fashion brands with business relevance; and has established itself as one of the three leading trade shows of Berlin Fashion Week. As with the last edition of Panorama, the forthcoming show, which will take place over three days from 19-21 January, will be held in the ExpoCenter City, where the larger 21,000 square metre space will allow the organisers to cater for the high numbers of exhibitors and visitors in each of the nine halls. “We are really looking forward to

the event in January 2015 and are convinced that it will be another step into the right direction – to put Panorama Berlin ahead of the European fashion trade shows,” said Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin. Brands already confirmed for the January show include Olymp, Hatico, Birkenstock, Move by Digel, Hajo, Seidensticker, Bugatti, Roy Robson, Stones and Pierre Cardin. The subsequent edition of Panorama Berlin will run from 7-9 July 2015, when exhibitors will introduce their SS 16 collections.

and life style destination, which will showcase over 100 forward-thinking Scandinavian and international men’s brands across 4,800 sq m of exhibition space. An international brand jury will curate the trade fair by selecting only the most relevant brands, which will create a clear vision and platform for the brands and visitors. “Our aim for Raven – which reverences Odin’s flying messengers in traditional Norse mythology – is for it to act as an eclectic sampling of Danish culture, as well as a microcosm of a city in which various cultural spheres gather, intersect and redefine each other,” explains

Kristian Andersen, CIFF Fashion and Design Director. “At other trade shows brands come together to compete, but at Raven they will come together to create a menswear community, establishing Copenhagen as a leader in the global menswear market,” says Andersen. Revolver, meanwhile, will include both women’s and men’s fashion as well as an inspirational area dedicated to retail. It will take place at two venues: RevolverMeatpacking District at Øksnehallen and Revolver-Fishmarket District at Lokomotivværkstedet. The latter will also house Revolver Retail.

SHOWTALK

GDS

4-6 FEBRUARY, 2015 DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY Positioned as the “global destination” for shoes and accessories, GDS provides the platform for both established and up-and-coming manufacturers to stage their brands and products and is acknowledged as the place for the industry to gain a crucial overview. Expectations are high, then, for the next edition of the bi-annual show, which will take place over three days from 4-6 February, with the event organisers hoping to build on the success of the previous show, which boasted 1,259 exhibitors from over 42 countries. Scheduled early in the trade show calendar in order to facilitate the placement of orders, GDS will feature a host trend-setters amongst its diverse mix. Exhibitors will be laid out in three separate areas – Highstreet, Pop Up and Studio. Each area will feature a diverse range of new exhibition and presentation possibilities, enabling more than 900 exhibitors to showcase their goods in the most appropriate surroundings for their respective brands. Highlights of the forthcoming show promise to include the presentation of collections from 20 exciting and innovative Design Trendsetters, who have been selected by an international first-class jury in the run-up to GDS; the fashion show in hall 9, which draws attention to premium collections; and a series of shows which will be staged by exhibitors at GDS.

MOMAD METROPOLIS 8-10 FEBRUARY 2015 MADRID, SPAIN

An increasingly popular international fashion exhibition, which takes place twice a year in the premises of the fair of Madrid, MOMAD Metropolis is aimed at buyers and shop owners from around the world and showcases the latest trends and fashion styles of the coming season. Manufacturers, wholesalers and importers present fashion for men, women and children. The offer ranges of clothing for leisure, professional, evening wear and swimwear to fashion for the festive occasion and footwear is shown. The bi-annual show gives visitors the opportunity to contact the manufacturers directly, to network internationally and to preview the best forthcoming trends and styles.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 11

SHOWTALK

MODA GENT 15-17 FEBRUARY, 2015 NEC BIRMINGHAM, UK

Home to some of the biggest names in menswear and with add-on products, including intimate apparel, belts, ties, hats and bags represented across the show, Moda Gent boasts an extensive offering encompassing more than 200 brands and encompassing men’s casual, lifestyle and formal clothing, underwear and accessories. The line-up for the forthcoming edition, which will take place over three days

from 15-17 February, will feature UK heavyweights, major international names and retail favourites, making it a wellestablished hub amongst buyers and popular with those seeking inspiration and new product. Adding to the variety of product on offer this season, the February show will see the launch of a brand new fastfashion area, The Loft, which will bring together an edited selection of brands in a pop-up market place next to the Hall 20 catwalk. According to the show organisers, this new addition will ensure easy access to a host of consumer name

brands specialising in short order and trans-seasonal stock. Select, meanwhile, is likely to provide an additional draw, presenting a contemporary mix of men’s urban clothing and footwear. Located on the border between Moda Footwear and Moda Gent, it is the perfect place to see original, exciting and innovative product and the ideal destination to pick up quirky niche labels. Other attractions at the February event include daily catwalk shows, which will present some of the finest fashions from exhibiting brands.

Sales Manager Douglas and Grahame Ltd is an established and reputable Menswear fashion house with links to retailers across Ireland and within the UK. A fantastic opportunity has now arisen for a Sales Manager to join the team based in Carrickfergus. This is the perfect opening for a high calibre sales professional with superb strategic management capabilities to join a leading fashion company. With ﬁrst-rate management responsibilities and exceptional rewards on offer, this position provides the chance to play a key role in the continued excellence of this successful organisation. As Sales Manager, you will be tasked with leading and overseeing the work of the Sales Teams in Northern Ireland, the Republic of Ireland and Scotland. You’ll strive to increase the long term value of the

business through developing customer relationships and managing key accounts. With the key focus of your role being the management of the Sales Teams, you will plan, organise and direct their activities in order to aid them in meeting sales targets. You will also mentor the teams and ensure they are equipped with the sales skills, product knowledge and brand communication material they require to succeed. Setting sales objectives and managing overall performance, you will assign sales targets for each Sales Team that are relevant to the season and ﬁnancial period. Additionally, you will develop a ﬁeld sales action plan and work closely with the Marketing Team to ensure collateral is available.

To be considered for this role, you must have: • Signiﬁcant experience of working and managing a team of sales professionals in the wholesale market • Prior experience of developing strategic sales initiatives • A proven track record of sales achievement, including experience of establishing business in new territories • Strong knowledge of the apparel and footwear markets, ideally in Ireland and Scotland Driven and proactive, as a Sales Manager, you must be a strong communicator with great negotiating and inﬂuencing skills. You will also be a born leader, capable of using your own initiative to think strategically whilst operating within a fast-paced, demanding environment.

To apply for the Sales Manager role contact careers@douglasandgrahame.com to receive an application pack. Please note the closing date for receipt of application packs is 28/02/2015.

12 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

TRENDS

TRENDS KEY COLOURS FOR MENSWEAR AW 15/16

onfirmed by the international catwalks, the colour forecast for AW 15/16 places a renewed emphasis on elevated and updated basics for the menswear market. The dominant palettes illustrate a wide array of themes for the menswear market - Victorian gentlemen, rugged aviators, space-age activewear, and plenty of luxe classics that can translate to both cityscapes and country scenes. Super-saturated jewel tones are the most important, while a slew of industrial hues that could easily be the new neutrals pointed towards a more refined version of workwear and time-honoured uniforms. Finally, eye-popping brights, Sci-Fi metallics, and a range of neutrals add a surprising novelty and visual diversity for AW 15/16.

PINE GREEN As one of the most significant key colours for the current AW season, pine or bottle green was part of the importance of jewel tones. Often styled with inky blue and claret red, pine green is set to remain omnipresent for AW 15/16 and is hailed as the perfect choice for coloured leathers, velvets, and corduroys. With a subtle blue cast, it looks simultaneously masculine and formal. In New York, the shade took on a much more active look for anoraks, quilted blazers, and colourblocked jackets.

CLARET Blue-chip menswear brands such as Burberry Prorsum and Louis Vuitton made excellent use of assorted shades of wine on their AW 15/16 catwalk shows to emphasise the rich influence of the season. Appearing in assorted variations, from ‘almost black’ merlot to true claret, it stands undisputed as an essential colour for the forthcoming season.

PLUM After plenty of regal influences in Europe, purple took on a new meaning during in New York Fashion Week and on the men’s runways. Complementing the 14 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

many grungy and gritty influences, the shade was much darker than other cities, often found on slouchy outerwear and knits. A much bolder hue, while only showing up on a few catwalk shows, coincided with the acceptance of jovial and playful brights for the autumn.

MUSTARD A surprising shade of mustard found its way to the fall collections. Much warmer than the bold nautical yellows of seasons past, this season’s hue feels more utilitarian. It complements many shades of olive and beige for the season, and looks new for both outerwear and tailored clothing.

RICH RED Blazing a loud and proud trail down the catwalk, the bold shades of crimson and scarlet appear in super-saturated forms for AW 15/16, and certainly look to breathe new life into a wide array of classic menswear. The blue-based hue was the most prevalent, showing up on everything from overcoats to bulky cable knit sweaters. Its appearance on active outerwear like parkas was especially strong. The boldness was only accentuated when paired with black and charcoal.

TRENDS

SUITS AW 15/16

volution, rather than revolution, remains the modus operandi for AW15 suiting. Rather than look to radically reinvent the sartorial wheel, designers have adhered to a classic template for their respective collections this season. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not to suggest, however, that the new seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suiting is a drab affair. Far from it. The new collections throw up more than their fair share of interesting additions and modifications, making for a seasonal selection that is likely to prove popular with retailers and consumers alike. Colour palettes are increasingly adventurous: the perennially popular trio of black, grey and navy may remain as ubiquitous as ever but they are joined by a selection of relative recent newcomers, most notably beige, brown and, one of the most popular shades in the Irish market, lighter shades of blue. Fabrics, meanwhile, see an emphasis on durable yet comfortable and, crucially, functional materials, making for a pleasingly comprehensive material mix.

CLUB OF GENTS

BAUMLER

SKOPES

DIGEL

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 15

TRENDS

“FABRICS SEE AN EMPHASIS ON DURABLE YET COMFORTABLE AND, CRUCIALLY, FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS”

BAUMLER

ROY ROBSON

CARL GROSS

“COLOUR PALETTES ARE INCREASINGLY ADVENTUROUS” DIGEL

16 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

BUGATTI

ATELIER TORINO

AUTUMN COLLECTION 2015

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INTERVIEW

(clockwise from top left) The facade of Castle & Drury; stock at the store includes CREEP by Hiroshi Awaii wool pants, Soulland white Oxford shirt, Bonagrew tie, YMC vintage crewneck and WoodWood duffel bag, leather boots and gloves; Conor Rhatigan

KING OF THE CASTLE HAVING RECENTLY OPENED HIS NEW SHOP IN DUBLIN’S CITY CENTRE, CONOR RHATIGAN OF CASTLE & DRURY TAKES TIME OUT TO CHAT TO MENSWEAR ABOUT HIS EXCITING NEW VENTURE AND HOW HE HOPES TO STAND OUT FROM THE COMPETITION CONGRATULATIONS ON THE RECENT OPENING OF YOUR NEW STORE. HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT? I’ve always had a huge interest in fashion: the whole process of sourcing products, building relationships with suppliers and then, hopefully, at the end of the day, the feeling of satisfaction when particular styles you have backed start to move really appeals to me. After living abroad for the guts of three years between New York and London, I had a feeling that some of the brands I had become fond of would be received well in Dublin, so that’s really how the concept for this new venture came about. WAS FASHION ALWAYS AN INTEREST FOR YOU? Some of my earliest memories are those spent hanging out after school in the stock room of my mother’s boutique, Wits End, in Ranelagh. So, yes, fashion has always been an interest for me, I like how it gives an individual the chance to express

themselves, and, recently having spent the past few months working in the industry, putting together brands I think will sit well together. WHEN DID YOU OPEN FOR BUSINESS? Monday 29 September to be exact! The plan was originally to be open a few weeks earlier, but the build took a little longer than expected. It was well worth the wait, though, as the finished product is really impressive, I think. WHAT IS CASTLE & DRURY’S TARGET MARKET? The target market for this store is men ranging from ages 20-35. Having said that it is important for us not to box any demographic out, so we also stock some brands which will appeal to ages upwards of 35 - particularly CREEP by Hiroshi Awaii and YMC. We also stock a Los Angeles-based brand called Primitive, which is likely to appeal more to a younger audience.

HOW DO YOU MARKET THE SHOP AND ATTRACT NEW CUSTOMERS? At the moment our main focus is on the three main social media platforms - Facebook, Instagram and Twitter – as they’re a really great way to reach new customers. Instagram has proved to be the best marketing tool thus far because of the visual interaction the platform offers. IS THERE MUCH COMPETITION FROM OTHER MENSWEAR STORES IN THE AREA? There are certainly a few nice independent menswear stores in the centre of town. A bit further away in Temple bar lies Indigo & Cloth, which has always been a huge inspiration for me - the brands they carry are really special and the space is put together really thoughtfully. I’ve put a lot of time and effort into making sure that none of the brands in store cross over with any others in the area, though, so it’s nice to offer something a bit different. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 17

INTERVIEW

WoodWood hat, YMC x Grundens Elka style jacket and YMC crewneck.

HOW DO YOU ENSURE YOU STAND OUT FROM THE COMPETITION? I think the whole aesthetic of the space is really unique and I’ve not come across anything quite like it before; the rounded edges and arching shapes make the space really inviting and eye-catching, so that is something which definitely sets us apart from other shops. There’s quite a range on offer in terms of prices and styles at the moment so that is another aspect which will hopefully prove to keep us competitive. DO YOU SELL BOTH CASUAL AND FORMALWEAR? It’s all mainly casual wear on offer right now. We stock some smarter style of shirts and a lovely style of wool pants that could feature as part of a more formal outfit, but the selection is mainly casual. WHAT BRANDS ARE YOU CURRENTLY INVESTING HEAVILY IN? Wood Wood is the brand that currently takes the largest portion of the budget. They offer an amazing range of products, and their accessories are really on point. So far the brand has been received really well, which is great news. DO YOU PLAN ON FINE-TUNING THE BRAND MIX IN THE STORE, OR HAVE YOU SETTLED ON A FEW LABELS? There are a few changes in terms of brand mix happening for SS15. Three brands will be leaving the store and four new ones - Mads Norgaard (Denmark), Libertine - Libertine (Denmark), Han Kjonenhavn (Denmark) and Bleu de Paname (Paris) will be coming in, which I’m really excited 18 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

to be adding to the store. It’s an evolution that will see us moving more in the Scandinavian direction. WHAT BRANDS HAVE PERFORMED BEST FOR YOU TO DATE? It is such early days to tell exactly but YMC and CREEP by Hiroshi Awaii have performed well up until now. ARE YOUR CUSTOMERS BRAND-CONSCIOUS? So far, it seems so, yes. It’s been really nice to have a customer come in and recognise a particular brand and go straight for it and want to pick up a few pieces. Some of the brands we stock represent a first in Ireland for Castle & Drury; customers really seem to appreciate that so far, which is very pleasing. AND HOW SENSITIVE TO PRICE ARE THEY? Customers up until now do not seem overly price-sensitive; we have on offer some premium brands but prices are not through the roof in in any sense and customers at this point seem to think so, too. HAVE YOU INVESTED MUCH IN THE SHOP’S DESIGN AND INTERIOR? Yes, there’s been a lot of thought put into the shop itself. My whole thought process through this project was that for the shop to have the best chance of surviving the whole aesthetic and experience for the customer had to be a great one. I had the pleasure of working with a really talented graphic designer, James Early. The architect for the project who did an outstanding job was Andrew Griffin from the Urban Agency.

HOW IS THE STORE LAID OUT? The front is all glass, which is great for customers to get a sense of what they can expect to find inside. Inside, there are some really interesting rails we had made which undulate in height to give the effect that the clothes are floating at different levels – it’s really unique. We’ve also got some concrete podiums that can be stacked and can be used to display accessories. Other notable details in the interiors include the fitting room area, which is lined with a black denim fabric that gives off a warm feeling; and the floor in the fitting room, which features a raw concrete finish. HOW DO YOU SEE THE NEXT FEW MONTHS PANNING OUT? Hopefully with lots of sales! It is an exciting time having just opened and we are just taking one thing at a time but it would be great to start hosting regular events on the first floor, showcasing art from local artists or anything that I think would tie in well with the clothes on offer at the ground level. LOOKING FURTHER AHEAD, WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE OF CASTLE & DRURY? The short-term goal is to hopefully build a loyal following. If our customers grow to like what is on offer and build some loyalty to the brands we sell, that would be a great position to be in. Further down the line, it would be great to start to explore getting some products made, whether that be an accessory piece, for instance, or a shirt.

AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION 2015 McCotter Agencies Ltd. Suite 3, 9-15 Queen Street | Belfast BT1 6EA/N. Ireland Phone: +44 28 9032 7770 | eterna@mccotterandson.co.uk

VOXPOP

VOX POP THE LEAD-UP TO CHRISTMAS WITH MANY RETAILERS SLASHING PRICES IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS, COMPETITION FOR CUSTOMERS IS MORE KEEN THAN EVER. BUT HOW HAVE FORTUNES FARED FOR IRELAND’S INDEPENDENT MENSWEAR SHOPS, HOW MUCH ARE CUSTOMERS SPENDING AND WHAT HAVE BEEN THE HITS AND MISSES? WE POSE THE QUESTIONS TO SIX RETAILERS ACROSS THE COUNTRY.

MIKE FLANNAGAN

JOHN MURRAY

9 MAIN STREET, ROSCOMMON, CO. ROSCOMMON

MAIN STREET, ARKLOW, CO. WICKLOW

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? Business has been good in the runup to Christmas. In comparison to previous years, it has been better, although only marginally so.

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? In general, business has been quite steady for us. We’ve had a solid and constant flow of customers in recent weeks.

ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? I wouldn’t necessarily say customer numbers are up but definitely customer spending has improved.

ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? Numbers would be around the same as this time last year but there’s definitely been a notable increase in customer spend.

MANAGER AT DV8

OWNER OF THE MAN SHOP

GREG CROSSAN

MANAGER AT MICHAEL CROSSAN & SON MOHILL, CO. LEITRIM

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER SPEND? It’s difficult to gauge what the average spend is on account of the fact that some of our customers are purchasing gifts for Christmas, while others are buying for themselves for the festive season celebrations. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? We’ve had success across ranges that would typically do well over the winter months, such as outerwear like coats and jackets.

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER SPEND? The average spend would be around €130 - €140. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? Interest has been strong across our outerwear ranges, while knitwear has been selling well, also. Brands such as Bugatti, Casamoda, Meyer and Camel are constantly popular with our customers.

HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? As you’d imagine, items such as T-shirts, which we would stock all year round, are not as popular as they would be in the spring and summer months.

HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? Over the past few weeks, sales of our suits have slowed down. Customers often wait until the January sales to make these types of purchases.

HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? We have an advertising department who would get strong coverage for DV8 on the radio and various media outlets. We also have a website and a popular Facebook page.

HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? We haven’t done a huge amount over the past year. We largely depend on word-of-mouth and repeat business from our loyal customers.

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HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? Over the past few weeks, business hasn’t been great. It’s a very difficult time for small family businesses. We have noticed that a lot of customers are now shopping in big retailers like Heaton’s, Tesco and SuperValu in the more urban areas, and it’s very difficult for us to compete against the prices they offer. ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? Customer numbers would be down. WHAT IS THE AVERAGE C USTOMER SPEND? Our customers would usually spend around €100 each visit. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? Definitely our trousers – we have had a lot of success with them. HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? We used to do great business with our sports jackets but that has tapered off over the years. Our suits haven’t been too popular over the past few months either. HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? We haven’t really invested too much in promotion this year – we have many loyal customers who have been returning to the store for many years.

VOXPOP

LARAGH STANDÚN BUYER AT STANDÚN’S CONNEMARA, CO. GALWAY

JAMES ALLEN OWNER OF JAMES ALLEN MENSWEAR FARRELL STREET, KELLS, CO. MEATH

GERRY MCDERMOTT

OWNER OF MCDERMOTT MENSWEAR THE SQUARE, OLDCASTLE, CO. MEATH

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? Business has been good – there was definitely a slight improvement in comparison to last year, although nothing major. ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? Without a doubt. There is definitely a return in confidence amongst our customers. WHAT IS THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER SPEND? The average spend would be in and around €100. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? Our casual ranges are our most popular – shirts, knitwear and jeans. HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? We have had difficulties with the heavier items, particularly outerwear – and that’s not just on account of the milder weather. Because lots of our customers are young, they have little interest in going to discos or social engagements wearing heavy clothing like coats. HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? We have promoted our business with advertisements in local papers and we have also worked with the local GAA teams. We have invested a lot of energy and time into our online presence, particularly with our Facebook page.

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? On account of the fact that we start our Christmas sales early, we have been very busy over the past few weeks. Our winter sales normally begin in November and we find a lot of people will buy their Christmas presents in advance to avail of the discounts during this sale. ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? It seems like the customer numbers were slightly up this year, but not dramatically. We noticed the average spend was higher this December, compared to last year. WHAT IS THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER SPEND? We have discovered that the €39.95 price point works very well for sweaters and shirts and, therefore, when men come in, they buy their yearly wardrobe in one go! Customers are much more priceconscious now than ever before, but we see this as a great opportunity and we try to source good value for our customers and pass on the discount we receive to them so that we sell more volume. We have great knitwear priced at €29.95 and it sells like hot cakes! WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? Shirts with matching sweaters are probably the most popular items in the run-up to Christmas with Kellerman and Baileys being our most popular brands for these items. Accessories are also always popular this time of year, especially scarves. HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? With the mild winter we found jackets to be slow runners this season in our menswear department. HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? Recently, we have focussed on growing the online side of the business and, as such, we changed the website to reflect the new image of the store. We have also invested a lot of time in various social media platforms like Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Instagram and Linkedin.

HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN IN THE WEEKS BEFORE CHRISTMAS? We have been very busy over the past few weeks, thankfully. We noticed a slight dip in October / early November, which I put down to the opening of TK Maxx in Navan, but after that initial excitement, things have picked up again. ARE CUSTOMER NUMBERS UP ON RECENT YEARS? We have a recorded a small increase – around 4.5 per cent. WHAT IS THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER SPEND? The average spend is less than it used to be. On average, customers would now be spending €60 €80 – that’s factoring in those who would be purchasing gifts as well as those who would be purchasing for themselves. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BEST-SELLING ITEMS? Definitely our shirts, followed by our knitwear. Amongst our younger customers, our budget-priced jeans and hoodies would be very popular. Some years ago, more expensive and well-known labels would have appealed to this demographic but they simply don’t have that kind of money now. HAS ANYTHING BEEN SLOW TO SELL? The weather has been extremely mild and such, our overcoats and anoraks have not been in high demand. We anticipated this and didn’t carry as much stock across our outerwear sections this year. HOW, IF AT ALL, HAVE YOU PROMOTED YOUR BUSINESS? Our main focus would be on local advertising. We also have a lot of in-house promotions, such as discounts and sales, and we inform our customers of this through text messaging. We have been in business for almost 40 years and have built up lots of loyal customers along the way.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 21

COLLECTIONS

COLLECTION REPORTS ALBERTO OVERVIEW: The Cosy Pants collections from Alberto are year-round must-haves that bridge the gap between office and casual wear, day and evening wear. PALETTE: Strong masculine shades of grey, navy, blue, beige and brown take pride of place throughout this collection. FABRICS: Denim, veggie leather and woollen fabrics prevail here.

ATELIER TORINO OVERVIEW: A modern brand, encapsulated by its slogan, Feel Italian, Atelier Torinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hero products are its stylish outerwear and suits. PALETTE: The discrete colour combinations such as charcoal-grey with chocolate-brown stitching, or navy, mixed with indigo shades create an elegant appearance. FABRICS: For AW 15/16, wool meets nylon and cashmere meets tweed.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Notable ranges include Cosy Jeans, which combine the rough classic denim look with the smooth, ultra-soft sweatpants feeling. The Veggie Leather pants are both cosy and cool, proving that hard and soft can go together perfectly.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: In addition to the basic range, Atelier Torino offers new outdoor jackets in nylon, skintex and cashmere loden. Outdoor padding provides the perfect protection for the winter months.

ARROW

BAUMLER

OVERVIEW: This new collection is more versatile than ever. Alongside the classic shirts, stylish polo shirts, popular jackets, ties, knitwear and casual collections, are the extended trousers collection and seasonal Oxford shirts range.

OVERVIEW: The finest quality, attention to detail and passion for tailoring sum up the latest collection, which is divided into three themes: Business; Luxury and Fashion.

PALETTE: Key colours include blue, red and brown tones. Green, olive, orange and grey are cleverly used as spot colours. FABRICS: Cotton reigns supreme amongst the shirt range; jersey fabrics are present amongst the polo T-shirts, while cashmere, lambswool and nylon are used in the knitwear collections. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Arrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outwear impresses with twill bomber jackets, modern parkas, quilted blazers and vests and a duffel coat. Alongside ties and bow ties, handkerchiefs and scarves can also be found in their accessories range.

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PALETTE: This season sees greater emphasis on colour than in previous years. In addition to the timeless classics such as blue grey and black, bolder colours like burgundy, maroon and scarlet are predominant. FABRICS: A wide variety of high-quality fabrics includes cosy flannels and clear-cut and double-faced materials. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The must-have for the cold-weather season is the themed Hampton Club collection with both modern and sophisticated looks, a soft make and a bodyconscious fit. Coats, sharply-cut outdoor jackets and chinos, as well as a variety of shirts and accessories complete the look in this range.

COLLECTIONS

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 23

COLLECTIONS

BRÜHL OVERVIEW: Brühl’s Fine Trousers collection succeeds in amalgamating established best-sellers with practical up-todate washing features. PALETTE: A whole host of dramatic colours are used throughout this collection, including fir green, caramel, ruby red, terracotta, nougat, cool grey and petrol blue. FABRICS: Innovative fabrics, such as cotton gabardine, are put to excellent use here. Corduroy is also a must for AW 15/16. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: A highlight, in terms of patterns, is the double-faced design with stripes on the outside and shepherd’s check on the inside

BUGATTI

BENVENUTO (PURPLE LABEL)

OVERVIEW: Inspired by clear, honest and pure industrial designs, Purple Label by Benvenuto is both simple and innovative all at once. PALETTE: Deep, rich colours, such as navy, blue, khaki, burned orange, grey and ruby wine berry, feature throughout. FABRICS: Jersey pants replace woollen flannel; raw denim is interpreted as jersey. While surfaces look raw and hard, instead they are flowing, soft and comfortable. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The coats within the collection are particularly noteworthy on account of their impressive urban interpretations made of retro woollen products. Knitwear is transformed into innovative duffle-coats.

24 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

OVERVIEW: A modern silhouette coupled with outstanding everyday fit provides the basis for Bugatti’s new collection of coats, while the focus for the jacket collection is on sportiness, interpreted to look Metropolitan-like. Chunky knit and a variety of stitches and structures characterise the knitwear collection and in terms of their shirt offerings, check is king. PALETTE: Throughout their coat selections, small patterns in more than one colour, sometimes even in mid-tones, enliven the somewhat darker shades, while the jackets are rife with silver-grey, indigo, dark blue, beige-brown and black. Knitwear boasts quiet and earthy tones, while prints, such as Paisley, are found across the shirts. FABRICS: Denim, jersey knit, nylon, wool and tweed are key. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Outerwear impresses with coats for every requirement available. There is a certain trendy and sporty twist evident, both in the traditional wool and casuallook styles.

COLLECTIONS

COLLECTIONS

CARL GROSS OVERVIEW: The AW 15/16 collection deftly fuses elegant with casual, while also bringing a sense of minimalism throughout the styles and designs. PALETTE: Subdued winter darks such as indigo shades, grey, brown and black are the basis for this collection. Saturated and upmarket ox-blood tones enliven the colour range. FABRICS: Merino wool, cotton, teddy-bear fleeces, synthetic leather and nylon have been used to great effect across the outerwear, knitwear and shirt collections. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Quilted jackets in all variants demand attention, while subtle washes across the knitwear range contribute towards the new and fresh looks.

CASAMODA

CAMEL ACTIVE OVERVIEW: The Trail to Balance collection pits opposites against each other, such as old and new, light and dark, structured and smooth. Boundaries blur, while flowing transitions are used to create a harmonious overall picture. PALETTE: Earthy tones such as brown, green and grey prevail.

OVERVIEW: The AW 15/16 offering features a stylish and sophisticated collection for the businessman, and sporty, comfortable options for the active adventurer. PALETTE: Vibrant colours such as blue, yellow, grey, silver, olive, rust and warm reds are used to great effect.

FABRICS: Nylon and cotton are brought together here, vegetable leather and denim is present, while fur is a new addition to the mix.

FABRICS: A wide variety of fabrics encompasses everything from satin and silk to cottoncashmere mixtures.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Worthy of a mention is the range of pants where the focus is being placed more on washes and fits rather than on noticeable details. The sneaker range, meanwhile, has been expanded to incorporate a contemporary and modern style.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: In the Casamoda Business collection, the shirts are complete with fine-threaded structures and minimal prints, as well as fine liners and checkered fabrics. Paired with a mixture of subtle edgings, they give the business shirts a modern look.

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COLLECTIONS

CLUB OF GENTS OVERVIEW: The collection is structured into two major themes: a more masculine look with a smart or sporty attitude; and reduced silhouettes, which appear in the fitted business suits and garments. Single jackets complete the range. PALETTE: Dark indigo shades, olive and grey in all variants, along with retro patterns such as salt-andpepper are commonplace. FABRICS: Woven fabrics, jersey and piquĂŠ are just some examples of the high-quality materials on offer across this collection. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Alongside the two-button model with slim trousers, three-piece suits have reappeared, while the patchwork jacket, a real statement in the collection, is discreet yet commanding, thanks to a stylish blend of materials and colours. D2_MenswearIreland_ARTWORK_AW15.qxp_Layout 1 14/01/2015 14:00 Page 1

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MENSWEAR in Ireland | 27

COLLECTIONS

DIGEL OVERVIEW: The most important styling element for AW 15/16 is active layering. Sportswear items like zipped hoodies or print shirts celebrate a comeback, alongside modern suit styles. PALETTE: Colours are predominantly dark, comprising of lucid, intense shades of blue all the way to navy, combined with grey or black. Pure white offers a strong contrast, while minute accents are set by bright red details. FABRICS: Fabrics such as wool, tweed, velvet and velour give the collection a rustic and earthy flavour. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: A stand-out is the selection of jackets, which includes a significantly larger choice of extra-slim fits. These are characterised by narrow or notch lapels.

DOUBLE TWO OVERVIEW: The new collection features a new Slim Fit range in Double Twoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s formal collection. Impeccably tailored, shirts in this new line showcase a much closer fitting garment which has been slimmed down through the torso, across the back and through the sleeve with the addition of two back waist darts for a modern silhouette.

EDEN PARK OVERVIEW: A comprehensive and diverse collection which is strongly influenced by New Zealand skiing and which sees a variety of winter designed as urban outfits, combining optimal comfort, modern cuts and a range of washed colours. PALETTE: An unerringly masculine palette features all the traditional autumnal favourites, including grey, navy, burgundy and brown, but is enlivened by a clever use of warm and rich highlights, such as hemp, redwood and assorted blues. FABRICS: An emphasis on warmth sees the material mix encompass everything from down (jackets) and boiled wool (blazers) to flannel (shorts). Coyote fur and sheepskin also make an appearance on the collars of multi-pocketed parkas. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Large checks on shirts, embroidered rugby jerseys, teddy jackets and wool beanie hats.

ETERNA OVERVIEW: From a classy Grand Hotel atmosphere via the distinctive elegance of modern, urban dress style through to the original light touch of a dandy is the adventurous journey Eterna takes with its latest collection.

PALETTE: The winter palette is warm and rich with jewelled tones of purple, cobalt, emerald and wine, accentuated with red, charcoal and blue and freshened by white, pink, aqua and lemon.

PALETTE: The captivating colour palette incorporate shades of grey, lilac, dark berry, dark blue and brown. Paisley and minimal prints are also found throughout.

FABRICS: An emphasis on high-quality yet inherently practical fabrics sees classic cotton and fine cotton Microtwill used extensively.

FABRICS: The collection encompasses a wide variety of light and heavy fabrics including 100 per cent cotton, Non-Iron and new types of stretchwear.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The award-winning Paradigm collection, which incorporates new exclusive designs in a variety of stripe designs, as well as a classic gingham check, all in strong tones of blue, red, grape and emerald.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Mini and micro-patterning steal the show, while black & white remains an important theme and is given a reinterpretation through the use of premium buttons and subtle details.

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COLLECTIONS

HAJO OVERVIEW: Florence, the mecca of fine arts, is the inspiration for AW 15/16, and, as such, the designs are classical yet modern; subtle yet commanding. PALETTE: Colour combinations are quiet and restrained. Emphasis is placed on shades of black, grey, blue and berry. FABRICS: Quilting and quilting seams are a prevalent design feature. Jersey, piqué, cotton and Merino wool are also important. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Sweatshirts, rugby shirts and sweat jackets represent a great variety of new looks, while the hoodies, which are made with zippers, sweat materials or knitwear, make the ideal garment for winter weather, while also give the collection a sense of modernity.

HATICO OVERVIEW: Beneath the classic designs like stripes and checks, minimalistic prints are the focus of Hatico’s new range of shirts. PALETTE: The colour range is dominated by deep and full colour tones. The main directions are red, shades of green, olive and burned orange, as well as staple black. FABRICS: Mélange yarns are more dominant this season and add an additional sportive look to the checks. Brushed poplins, flannels in different weights, structures and varied twill are also on show. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Hatico knits perfectly complement the shirt collection. There is a broad colour range available in V-necks and cardigans.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 29

COLLECTIONS

PURE OVERVIEW: In general, the figure-hugging silhouette is extremely important in Pure’s AW 15/16 collection and their shirts will be offered in two slim fittings: the Fashion Fit and the Slim Fit. PALETTE: Colours in the new shirts will complement the new collection of suits: grey, anthracite, navy, brown, red and olive. FABRICS: For this vast collection, a mixture of yarns, along with numerous other fabrics, has been used to great effect. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The collars found in the slim-fitted shirts merit applause: the small shapes are becoming more and more popular and perfectly complement the slim tie and slim fit of the shirt.

ROY ROBSON OLYMP OVERVIEW: A hybrid approach characterises this collection with a fusion of formal and active wear. Looks are clear-cut and minimalist, but are brought to life by special details and sophisticated cuts. PALETTE: Strong singular tones are combined with neutral shades to create an interplay of tonality and tranquillity. Deep, rich colours enhance the palette even further and exhibit a new darkness and depth of colour. A graduation and shading of colour creates an extremely harmonious palette. FABRICS: Special yarns such as tweed are placed under the spotlight. New prints create a special look. Throughout, fabrics have an elegant lustre and exude finesse. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The casual urban chic highlight, Artic Shadow, combines sporty and classic elements. Icebergs, frozen water and snowy landscapes provide the basis for the designs of the prints and knitwear.

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OVERVIEW: A spontaneous winter weekend break is the inspiration for the season. The extensive catalogue is divided into the themes Check Out, Explore and Regenerate and reflects the different aspects of a typical day – both work and play. PALETTE: The palette ranges from blues – set off with shades of red and taupe – to natural hues of brown and green, right the way through to various greys twinned with warm shades of orange and contrasting petrol. FABRICS: Denim, felted materials, fine wools and yarn are just some of the fabrics on display. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The key business look is a strikingly cut, double-breasted slim-fit suit made from dark blue fabric with a fine jacquard pattern, twinned with a steel-blue dobby

COLLECTIONS

S4 JACKETS OVERVIEW: Clear silhouettes and edges, stylistically confident, nonchalant and discerning are the buzzwords for the AW 15/16 collection.

VENTI OVERVIEW: This season, Venti has married its love of style with its love of detail, a combination that is particularly visible in the new Venti Limited Edition and Body Stretch collections.

PALETTE: Strong, masculine colours, such as variants of black, grey and navy, are key.

PALETTE: Red, blue, black, silver, emerald, lilac and grey form the colour palette - shades that exude masculinity and strength.

FABRICS: S4 makes excellent use of an extensive variety of water-resistant fabrics and materials, making their jackets not only stylish, but also perfect for harsh winter weather.

FABRICS: Knitted and woven fabrics across their ranges of shirts and ties, give the AW 15/16 offering stylish durability.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The jackets boast excellent fit, comfort and style – ideal for the man who likes to embrace the outdoors, regardless of the weather.

FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: New leisure shirts should prove extremely popular as they provide an alternative and casual option for customers, with their near-plain structures, distinctive prints and modern check variations.

SKOPES

WILVORST

OVERVIEW: An extended collection of Forward Order suits (two- or three-piece is optional), sports jackets, trousers and outerwear, as well as Skopes’ usual wide range of stock service continuity lines. A choice of fits in available in several cloths, while a new addition for the season comes in the form of Skopes’ Luxury Collection, which comprises suits and jackets in 100% pure new wool and cashmere blends.

OVERVIEW: The new collection brings together modernity, comfort and style.

PALETTE: A rich palette sees country classic tones take on a contemporary twist, with chocolate brown, caramel, rust, burnt orange, teal, navy blue and dark olive featuring prominently. FABRICS: Tweed jackets, soft cotton cords and moleskins are predominant. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Ultra-sharp blue formal suits in assorted fabrics, including entry price PV, a wool-mix or 100% Merino.

PALETTE: Elegant shades of blue, grey, silver and beige are utilised to stunning effect, giving a timeless sense to the suits. FABRICS: Exceptional materials, complete with intricate designs and patterns, offer an unusual twist on the conventional suit. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The sophisticated three-piece suits warrant praise on account of their striking and fitting design.

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SHOPCALL OUR MYSTERY SHOPPER HEADS WEST TO PAY AN UNSCHEDULED VISIT TO A LONG-STANDING GALWAY RETAILER AND, IN THE PROCESS, DISCOVERS ANOTHER GOOD REASON TO GO GREEN FIRST IMPRESSIONS In recent times, the layout of clothing stores has seen a bare, minimalistic approach reign supreme. It is rather surprising and refreshing, therefore, to stumble across a premise that bucks said trend and, instead, fashions itself on an unruly teenager’s bedroom, with an endless supply of suits, shirts and accessories bursting from its seams. Joe Greene’s has little regard for stockrooms, where most proprietors house access merchandise. Instead, all its wares are out in the open, an approach that seems to appeal to its loyal customers, many of whom have been returning to the store since it opened in 1984. CUSTOMER PROFILE At first glance, it appears that Joe Greene’s customers would be of the older variety, attracted to the many jackets that line the walls. Upon further investigation, however, it transpires that the City of Tribes’ younger men are also catered for, particularly when it comes to suit rental.

32 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

STOCK As one would imagine, Joe Greene’s boast the whole gamut of reliable brands, notably Pierre Cardin, Bruel, Magee tweeds and suits, Double Two shirts, Robbie trousers and Gilt Edge accessories. Aside from its casual wear labels, the store specialises in formal wear hire, and has been successfully kitting out men, young and old, for weddings, debs and other such auspicious occasions for over four decades. DÉCOR & DISPLAY Having little interest in that old adage about less being more, Joe Greene’s modest space is akin a treasure chest of clothing. What colour the walls or carpets are is anyone’s guess, with every inch covered in the most brilliant selection of garments. Aside from some large, elevated mannequins that oversee proceedings, the store’s many, and evidently sturdy, railings are crammed with merchandise. In saying that, there is structure to the chaos and, rather surprisingly, customers can browse the store with ease.

WINDOW DISPLAY The shop front lays claim to two large windows and the displays are, uncharacteristically, unfussy if somewhat functional. STAFF Joe Green’s has the friendliest of staff that will happily spend hours chatting to their clients about sartorial matters, and also the weekend’s sporting events, current affairs and everything else in between. Online shopping may be a threat to retail in general, but a computer will not give you this type of warm, engaging, typically Irish service. Full marks for flawless and memorably impressive service. OVERALL VERDICT For 30 years, Joe Greene has built a strong reputation for being a menswear store that has little interest in competing with trendconscious department stores, but instead, focuses on getting its customers looking well and feeling comfortable in their garb. And at the end of the day, you can’t ask for much more than that. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 32

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