Menswear in Ireland by Sky Publishing

JANUARY 2016

VOX POP

BUSINESS IN 2015

LOOK SHARP THE BEST AW16 MENSWEAR

PREVIEWS OF THE KEY TRADE SHOWS

AHEAD OF THE PACK

SUIT & SHIRT TRENDS

AUTUMN/WINTER 2016

COLLECTION AVAILABLE TO VIEW NOW

INDX MENSWEAR SHOW

MODA GENT EXHIBITION

3-4 FEBRUARY 2016 CRANMORE PARK EXHIBITION CENTRE

21-23 FEBRUARY 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM

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CONTENTS

WELCOME A very warm welcome to our January issue, our first edition of Menswear in 2016.

The past 12 months haven’t been lacking in news, whether positive or negative, in the fashion industry. New appointments, openings and, sadly, closure all made their mark on the landscape but the year 2015 was, arguably, most defined by the sudden and controversial closure of Clerys department store, whose iconic building has dominated Dublin‘s O‘Connell Street for 162 years. What the next 12 months have in store is yet to be seen. But before we look forward, it’s often helpful to look back and learn from recent events and experiences. With this in mind, we’ve got the views and verdicts of a crosssection of retailers across the country, all of whom have kindly shared their thoughts on trade in 2015. From their insight on their best-selling labels, the most popular garments and the success (or otherwise) with online trading, it’s well worth a read. With a new year beginning, what better time to kick off a new column? In our The Other Side feature on page 18, where we focus on the non-business side of a prominent figure in the menswear industry, we kick off (no pun intended) with fashion agent and former Ireland rugby international, Ollie Campbell. Our fashion focus this (and next) issue is on AW16/17. In addition to the first in our two-part preview of the key collections, which starts on page 26, we’ve compiled two trend reports, looking at suits and shirts respectively. With all this plus our regulars, such as a comprehensive news round-up, a preview of the main tradeshows in Showtalk and an unscheduled visit to one of Belfast’s leading menswear stores in Shopcall, there should be plenty to keep you informed and entertained until we return again next month. In the meantime, may I take this opportunity to wish you the very best for a healthy and prosperous 2016. Alexander

COVER IMAGE: OLYMP

CONTENTS 4 NEWS

12 BUTTON UP

How shirts are shaping up for AW16

16 SHOWTALK

Previews of the leading menswear shows

18 THE OTHER SIDE OF

Alexander Fitzgerald, Editor mail@skypublishing.ie

The latest news, views and developments in the fashion industry

Fashion agent Ollie Campbell on life outside the 9-5

20 THE YEAR THAT WAS

Views and verdicts on how businesses fared in 2015

22 SHOPCALL

SEE US ON

Our mystery shopper visits Bogart in Belfast

24 DRESSED TO THRILL Menswear in Ireland is produced five times annually. If you would like to receive our next issue, drop us a line on a postcard with your details to: Menswear in Ireland, Sky Publishing, Castle House, Main Street, Rathfarnham, Ireland. Telephone: +353 1 283 6782 / 283 6755 Email: mail@skypublishing.ie Publisher: Patrick J. Codyre Sales & Marketing Manager: Avril Smith Editor: Alexander Fitzgerald Assistant Editor: Domhnall O’Donoghue Printers: Swift Print Solutions. © All editorial contents and all advertisement artwork prepared by the publishers, Sky Publishing Ltd. 2016.

2 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

The key trends in AW16 suiting

26 THE AW 16/17 COLLECTIONS

Previews of the leading men’s collections

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 2

NEWS

NEWS BLACK FRIDAY SPENDING BOOSTS RETAIL SALES IN NOVEMBER New figures have confirmed that retail sales volumes jumped in the Irish economy in November as consumers, buoyed by the budget and Black Friday bargains, geared up for Christmas. Statistics from the Central Statistics Office (CSO) show sales volumes rose by 2.2 per cent from October to November and were up 9.3 per cent on an annual basis. If motor trade volumes are excluded, sales were up 2.8 per cent in November and rose 8.9 per cent versus the same month a year earlier. The CSO said the all-business volume index, which excludes car sales is now at its highest level since February 2008. The value of sales was up 2 per cent in the month and by 4.9 per cent on an

CHRISTMAS TRADING SHOWS INCREASE OF AS MUCH AS 3.6 PER CENT Retail Excellence Ireland reported that Christmas 2015 saw trade increase on Christmas 2014 by 3.6 per cent; however, trading remained mixed, especially in provincial Ireland. Dublin and larger urban centres have experienced growth in excess of 5 per cent, whilst the same good fortune was not experienced in many provincial towns. There has also been a noticeable difference in the fortunes of the bigger retail brands and that of the independents. The independents have struggled to some degree as generally they are onstreet located with inclement weather undermining footfall. Additionally, Christmas 2015 experienced a significant surge in online sales, a missed 4 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

annual basis. Department stores volumes, meanwhile, increased by 7.4 per cent. Black Friday proved to be something of a boon for Irish retailers, according to Dermot O’Leary, Goodbody’s chief economist. “After a somewhat disappointing October, retail sales bounced back strongly in November, confirming that the Irish consumer revival remains on track,” O’Leary said. O’Leary also mentioned how anecdotal evidence suggests that retailers enjoyed a similarly positive performance in December. “With consumer confidence at a tenyear high, tax cuts coming into play and

earnings on the rise again, the prospects for consumer spending in Ireland look bright for 2016. Indeed, consumers could be the biggest driver of the expansion in Ireland this year,” he said. ISME, which represents small to medium sized businesses, welcomed the growth in sales. However, it warned that retail jobs are in danger because wages are rising – despite the fact that retail staff’s pay is among the lowest in the workforce; and called on the government to prioritise growth of the retail sector, particularly among firms outside Dublin “who have yet to benefit tangibly from the recovery.”

opportunity for many independent stores. Many of the big brand retailers are located in shopping centres and retail parks which were impacted less by the weather over the last three consecutive Saturdays as shoppers chose the ‘one-stop destination’ option. On-street retailers experienced a far quieter run up to Christmas with some flood-hit provincial towns reporting significantly reduced commercial activity. There has been an exponential increase in online sales this year, which started with Black Friday and Cyber Monday and has enjoyed sustained demand since. While the weather conditions forced consumers online, many retail operators commented that Christmas 2015 marked a milestone

in how Irish consumers shop. Thankfully, it’s not all bad for on-street independent retailers across the country. The week leading up to Christmas saw some of the lost sales won back as consumers travel home to country towns and villages from larger urban centres and from abroad, most with shopping lists in hand. Overall, according to Retail Excellence Ireland, it has been a reasonable trading period with all sectors trading up or on a par with last year.

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CRÉATION GROSS GMBH & CO. KG // HOUBIRGSTRASSE 7 // 91217 HERSBRUCK // GERMANy // CARLGROSS.COM PHONE +353 (0) 1 6 70 65 25 // E-MAIL: j.GOSSON@CARLGROSS.COM

NEWS

MEYER WINS MENSWEAR BRAND OF THE YEAR Independent fashion retailers, leading brands and agencies from as far afield as Derry and Aberdeen came together at London’s The Brewery late last year to celebrate the 25th Drapers Independents Awards. However, on the night, it was German trouser company MEYER who ultimately emerged triumphant, scooping Menswear Brand of the Year. The Drapers Independents Awards 2015 was the 25th in a series that stretches back all the way to a modest celebration lunch in 1991. The original idea – in a time of particularly tough economic conditions – was to highlight and celebrate the best of independent fashion retailing. “We are absolutely thrilled about winning the Drapers Menswear Brand

of the Year,” said Julian Ensor, the Irish clothing agent for MEYER. “We would like to thank all of our customers for their continued support we could not have won the award without them. We wish these customers all the very best for 2016 and, hopefully, the economy will continue to improve.” Irish eyes were certainly smiling on the night with Offaly’s Galvin Tullamore being named Menswear Independent of the Year, an award that was sponsored by Duck & Cover, while Patrick Bourke in County Clare was highly commended.

NORTHERN IRISH DESIGNER WINS BIG AT BRITISH FASHION AWARDS

JOULES OPENS IN DUBLIN’S CITY CENTRE

JW Anderson, the Northern Irish designer, was recently named Menswear and Womenswear designer of 2015 at the British Fashion Awards. This is the first time that any designer has won both categories in the same year. Hailing from Derry, Anderson impressively beat off stiff competition from the likes of Christopher Kane, Victoria Beckham, Tom Ford and Patrick Grant’s E Tautz across both categories. Last year, Anderson walked away with the menswear award, but was pipped at the post by Erdem for the women’s prize. The son of Irish rugby player Willie Anderson, the 31-year-old is seen as a shining light in the fashion industry, renowned for his vision and his instinct to experiment. Ireland often serves as inspiration for the designer; five years ago, he used lace patterns which were replicas of an 18th-Century lace tapestry found in a bog in the west of Ireland, now housed in the Ulster museum. In the relatively few years that he has

Joules, the British lifestyle brand, has opened a stand-alone unit in the former Lacoste store on Dublin’s Wicklow Street, marking not only its first full Republic of Ireland store but also its landmark 100th. Joules, which sells men’s, ladies’ and children’s clothing, has developed a loyal following worldwide thanks to its classic style and high-quality clothing and interiors collections. The brand’s strong use of colour, bold prints – all hand-drawn by the in-house design team - and unique signature detailing has made it a popular brand for the whole family. Tom Joule, Founder of Joules said: “We’re thrilled to be opening our 100th store and extremely excited to be launching our first stand-alone store in the Republic of Ireland. “The store opening couldn’t come at a better time as it was just before Christmas. We are looking forward to bringing our unique personality and style to new and existing Joules customers.”

6 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

been in the industry, Anderson has been engaged by the prestigious Spanish label Loewe and received an investment from Parisian luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Two years ago, he was presented with the New Establishment Designer and Emerging Womenswear Designer. Elsewhere on the night, Stella McCartney won the Brand Award, Jourdan Dunn picked up the Model Award while Tom Ford was celebrated for creating global awareness of his designs in the media. Lady Gaga collected the award on his behalf.

NEWS

PANORAMA BERLIN LAUNCHES FIRST GLOBAL VIRTUAL FASHION TRADE SHOW With their A/W ‘16 season, Panorama Berlin will launch a world novelty: the first global virtual fashion trade show. Just one day following the conclusion of the three ‘physical’ trade show days, Panorama Berlin will reopen its doors – this time to the virtual fashion trade show. For a further 180 days, visitors will be able to catch the complete season online. Unique brand presentations, as well as the A/W ’16 collections shown will be available for registered trade show visitors to view on a one-to-one basis. Designed as an immersive 360° fashion trade show experience, Panorama Berlin

is the world’s first trade show to use the following technological innovation: centimetre-accurate photorealistic 3D mapping of all nine halls combined with high-resolution 360-degree film. The result: a virtual version of Panorama Berlin that is identical to the real thing. Besides the virtual tour and a visit to the respective brand presentations or exhibition stands, visitors can obtain additional information by clicking on POIs (Points of Interest); look books from the various collections, brand information, contact information, and much more, can be obtained this way. Moreover, it’s an opportunity to discover collections without having to embark on what might be a long trip to Berlin. According to Joerg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin: “The final customers, the consumers, expect our exhibitors to make the brands available on a 24/7 basis – it doesn’t matter where – and also expect the brands to create brand worlds. “We are guided by these expectations, even if Panorama Berlin Digital is, strictly speaking, a B2B platform. But, how do the

JÖRG WICHMANN, CEO OF PANORAMA BERLIN

needs of buyers differ from those of end consumers when it comes to availability? We also want to meet this challenge and be available to our trade show visitors on a 24/7 basis, thereby creating added value for both our trade show visitors and our exhibitors,” he added.

INTRINSIC FOOTWEAR LAUNCHES AT ARNOTTS

EUGENE MASTERSON & ROZ PURCELL

8 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

Footwear specialist ECCO recently launched its new Intrinsic footwear collection at Arnotts to a packed crowd. Intrinsic is a shoe-sneaker hybrid combining ECCO’s renowned soft leather with patented knit fabrics for men and women. Complementing the prevailing “Ath-leisure” fashion trend this season, it is designed to add a casual urban vibe to any outfit while ensuring ECCO’s trademark Scandinavian simplicity and day-long comfort. Guests on the night included assorted fashionistas, magazine editors and stylists, as well as model Roz Purcell and Dublin GAA’s Philly McMahon. Speaking about the new addition to the range, Paul Lyons, Managing Director ECCO, says: “We are really excited about the Intrinsic and I am sure it will be a huge hit with Irish consumers. This shoe reflects the sport shoe’s evolution and is packed with high-end design adapted for urban living. “We have teamed up with Arnotts’ Shoe Garden to give their customers first access and are excited to see how they receive it.” Head of the ECCO Concept Lab, Niki Tæstensen, added, “We wanted to develop an urban collection for men and women who are always on the go.”

NEWS

CLERYS OPERATORS APPARENTLY PAID CONCESSION HOLDERS THROUGH “PONZI SCHEME” Dublin’s High Court recently heard that OCS Operations, the company charged with the running of Clerys Department Store prior to its sudden closure, reimbursed concession holders at the department store using a questionable method tantamount to a ‘ponzi scheme’. It was revealed that OCS Operations had taken part in a payment system where all trade receipts – including company and concession receipts – were lodged into a single bank account from which all payments were then made to concession holders on a monthly basis. The landmark emporium ceased business on 12 June last year, a mere three days before its operators were due to pay the proceeds of sales for the month of May. An investigation into the accounts unearthed evidence that OCS had been losing money and there were insufficient funds to cover what was due and owing. At the High Court, counsel argued that it appeared the

OLYMP’S IRISH SHOWROOM GETS MAKEOVER Niall Gleeson, who has been overseeing Irish sales of the Olymp brand, is presently carrying out developments to his new showrooms. Currently under construction, it is set to be three times larger than its predecessor and will be in excess of 1000 square feet. What’s more, the finished showroom will be to the Olymp corporate standard. The fixtures and fittings will be supplied from Olymp in Germany. Gleeson estimates that work will be completed in sometime in the latter half of February.

company used money from the concession holders’ sales for its own purposes. Counsel criticised the approach where these concession holders were paid for this week’s sales with last week’s proceeds, which was, in effect, “a ponzi scheme”. These revelations were made in the course of an application by the joint liquidators of the company, seeking directions whether to pay out some €654,000 funds to about 50 concession holders at the store. It is estimated that €1.4m is owed to the 50 concession holders. Counsel said the money being made available to the concession holders was for the period of 4 June to 12 June last. The issues in respect of monies due from sales made in May are still to be determined counsel said. The liquidator’s application had the full support of the lawyers representing 18 other concession holders, who are due to receive €387,000. There was no formal objection by any party to the application.

CARL GROSS PREMIUM CAPSULE BLACK LINE GOES LIVE Création Gross, the German menswear specialist, is introducing its first upmarket premium capsule, which will be presented to retail partners under the brand name, Carl Gross Black Line. Being launched in time for the upcoming pre-order AW’16 season, the portfolio, with its focus on business, will initially include two semi-lined and fully-lined jackets, one single-breasted two-button suit and a blazer coat. There are two styles - Modern Fit and Sharp Fit - to choose from. Upmarket serge linings, inlays and underarm shields in the suits, jackets and coats and perfectly-tailored side-slits are characteristic of the models in Premium Capsule. Another essential field of expertise in Black Line will be the renowned Italian weavers and their hand-picked fabrics. The collection offers an exquisite choice of 40 patterns and colours. Tweed, cashmere, wool and silk, and Aria 3.1 will also be put to great use throughout. The fabric qualities provide traditional - albeit newly-interpreted - business patterns such as Glencheck, herringbone and chalk stripes. Colour partially comes into play via coloured insertions on some near-plain fabrics. Knut Horsch, Head of Product Management, states: “Via Black Line, we want to open up a pricing niche which we perceive between the established suppliers of ready-to-wear clothing in the traditional departments and the brands incarnating sheer quality. “The Capsule will reflect quality tailoring at its best regarding outfit, finish and sartorial performance. With Black Line, we consider ourselves in a position to offer attractive entry-level pricing into the premium segment. This trading-up is one of the results of our talks with the keyaccounts. There is ample potential.” MENSWEAR in Ireland | 9

ADVERTORIAL

LERROS LAUNCHES AN INNOVATIVE NEW ACCESSORIES LINE LERROS will be joining the accessories business this coming autumn and is launching an innovative concept for the new product range. The German casual menswear supplier intends to offer belts, scarves, bags, wallets, wristbands, key chains and watches in the near future. The collection will be presented in Berlin at the Panorama Trade Show, while the first delivery to retailers will take place in autumn 2016. Sunglasses are also planned to be added to the range for spring/summer 2017. LERROS plans to have two collections per year, which will each have two delivery dates - the first in July/August and the second in January/February. 10 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

According to LERROS, they will also have special collections, such as a Christmas range. “Not only do we see our accessories line as the perfect complement to the casual and premium fashion lines, we would also like to present a full-range accessories system for the mainstream lines,” says LERROS manager, Jan ten Brinke. “This has been done in the womenswear for decades and there are also successful concepts in the premium range. We believe that a well-executed menswear accessories concept can also be successful in the commercial segment.” For the leather accessories, high-quality cowhide leather will be used exclusively,

while items will be handmade and of the highest quality. All leather items will come in separate packaging in the style of the brand. Belts will range in price from €29.99 to €49.99. Woollen, cashmere blend and viscose scarves will start at €29.99. Small leather items will start at €19.99. Wallets will generally retail between €49.99 and €59.99, and bags will retail from €79.99 to €199.99. A large part of the collection will be offered as part of the seasonal NOS (Never Out of Stock) programme and can as such be reordered within 24 hours. The complete collection is on view at LERROS Dublin Showrooms at Units 35A & 35B Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24.

INTERVIEW

HALLE 29, DÜSSELDORF - PANORAMA, BERLIN - MODEFABRIEK, AMSTERDAM LERROS FASHION IRELAND LTD. UNIT 35A & 35B - FASHION CITY - BALLYMOUNT ROAD UPPER - DUBLIN 24 DAN O'CALLAGHAN - MOBILE: 086-7833264 - EMAIL: DANOC@LERROS.COM MENSWEAR in Ireland | 11

SHIRT TRENDS

BUTTON UP

ewind the clock to our January 2014 issue, when we mentioned how ‘bold, brave and brilliant sums up the mood for AW14 shirts’ and how ‘daring designs and loud-and- proud prints’ were a prominent feature in many casual collections. It’s a contrasting tale for shirting in AW16. Business designs, by default, show little in the way of change – conservatism is, after all, the name of the game when it comes to shirts for the office – but it’s the casual shirts that reveal a distinctly direction. Gone are the over-scale floral prints and blink-and-you-won’tmiss-‘em patterns. Instead, the forthcoming AW season is set to usher in a far more discreet approach. Micro prints and small-scale patterns are, it seems, the order of the day, while colours are predominantly dark and considered. Assorted shades of grey, black and assorted blues at the darker end of the scale are some of the most prevalent colours. Fits, meanwhile, remain slim-fitting, albeit less notably than in recent seasons.

REMUS UOMO

CAMEL ACTIVE

BAR HARBOUR

PURE

VENTI

ARROW

ROY ROBSON

SEIDENSTICKER

ETERNA

SEIDENSTICKER

VENTI

OLYMP

ARROW

MARVELIS

BAR HARBOUR

CASA MODA

OLYMP

CASA MODA

MARVELIS

HATICO 12 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

PURE

ADVERTORIAL

FEATURE

MEYER SCOOPS PRESTIGIOUS AWARD INDEPENDENT FASHION RETAILERS, LEADING BRANDS AND AGENCIES CAME TOGETHER AT LONDON’S THE BREWERY LATE LAST YEAR TO CELEBRATE THE 25TH DRAPERS INDEPENDENTS AWARDS. HOWEVER, ON THE NIGHT, IT WAS GERMAN TROUSER COMPANY MEYER WHO ULTIMATELY EMERGED TRIUMPHANT, SCOOPING THE COVETED MENSWEAR BRAND OF THE YEAR AWARD. “We are absolutely thrilled about winning the Drapers Menswear Brand of the Year,” said Julian Ensor, the Irish clothing agent for MEYER. “We would like to thank all of our customers for their continued support – we could not have won the award without them. We wish these customers all the very best for 2016 and, hopefully, the economy will continue to improve.” The well-deserved award was yet another notch on the belt of one of Europe´s leading specialists for men´s trousers. Since its inception in 1960 in Waldbröl, the renowned, family-run German brand has come a long way and now boasts the trust of more than 5,000 trade partners worldwide. This enviable success over the years is the result of maintaining a consistent standard of quality throughout the decades while also being fastidious about the smallest detail. “Our goal is to fulfil our quality promise in every detail,” states Michel Meyer, CEO of MEYER. “Therefore, we exclusively use high-quality materials.” MEYER firmly believes that precise tailoring is created not just through the latest technology, but also thanks to the craftsmanship and 14 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

passion of their many gifted employees. The company currently manufactures exclusively at its European factory outside Brassov in Romania. They then deliver its products to 35 countries worldwide and communicate with each of their business partners in their respective native language. “Only the relationship between precise technology and the individual workers´ instincts can create an original pair of MEYER trousers,” Michael Meyer proudly reveals. Loyal customers report that the comfort they experience while wearing MEYER trousers comes from the luxurious blended fabrics, including pure virgin wool, fine cotton and airy kapok, with refined cashmere wool also utilised. “The characteristics of our various styles are just as important as the careful choice of our fabrics. These aims are supported by our high–quality processing techniques, but it also depends on the materials that make up the fabric,” Michael Meyer mentions. Surely MEYER’s greatest boast is their insistence on being green. In terms of their carbon footprints, their laundry system, with its integrated water treatment plant,

helps the company fulfil their responsibility to the environment. Only ecologically friendly additives are used when making a MEYER garment, and the company takes care to ensure outstanding quality even for the smallest processes. Furthermore, their products meet the criteria of Ökotex Standard 100 and those of the internationally recognised fair trade seal. As an international clothing manufacturer, MEYER is determined to set an example by introducing a collection made of fairly-traded cotton. Counter to the common image of globalisation, it is possible to manufacture trousers under fair working conditions along the entire manufacturing chain from Africa to Europe – at a price that is, in the truest sense of the word, fair. “Degrading working conditions, poverty wages and inhumane work hours are all in a day´s work,” Michael Meyer sadly acknowledges. “We consider this situation unsustainable. So we are happy that our efforts to provide an excellent product can also help improve living conditions for people around the world.” It seems that MEYER was tailor-made for this industry. MENSWEAR in Ireland | 14

INTERVIEW

Julian Ensor Mobile: (+353) 087 258 93 43 Mail: julian.ensor@gmail.com

www.meyer-hosen.com

January 19th - 21st 2016 Hall 2 Booth 2.05 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 15

SHOWTALK

SHOWTALK PANORAMA

WHERE: MESSE BERLIN, BERLIN WHEN: 19-21 JANUARY 2016 Panorama Berlin is introducing a new element to their upcoming editions, including the forthcoming show on 19-21 January, 2016. Called Nova Concept, it is being described by organisers as a “total brand and shopping experience, where visitors experience trendsetting women’s and men’s collections paired with creative merchandising ideas, art and music.” According to Jörg Wichmann, CEO, the retail trade and industry visitors asked Panorama Berlin to create an emotional and inspiring shopping world. “The focus here is on creative merchandising and flexible product presentations that aim to stimulate and encourage people to follow suit,” Wichmann explains. “For that reason, we work with renowned interior designers and architects. “With Nova Concept, we show how it is possible to use familiar spaces in completely new ways and create themes revealing the true concept of the fashion

trade. Here, things are heart-driven and not so head-driven. Here, instinct counts!” The focus is also on fashion from edgy international women’s and men’s collections to select product specialists and heritage brands and sneakers – styles that can be used to create contemporary, urban looks. A selection of curated lifestyle items, including select fragrances and care products, home accessories, technical gadgets, fine teas and coffee-table books, a sneaker lounge and a bloggers’ base solidify and round off this offer. Elsewhere, inspired by feedback from retailers and buyers, the January edition will see Panorama Berlin launch its first dedicated space for shoes and accessories during the A/W’16 season. In a dedicated hall with approximately 3,000 square meters of space, more than 100 selected shoe and accessory vendors will present their products. Panorama Berlin’s January edition will also mark the first global virtual fashion

trade show. Just one day following the conclusion of the three ‘physical’ trade show days, Panorama Berlin will reopen its doors – this time to the virtual fashion trade show. For a further 180 days, visitors will be able to catch the complete season. Unique brand presentations and the A/W’16 collections shown will be available for registered trade show visitors to view online on a one-to-one basis. Brands confirmed for the forthcoming show include Bark, Low Brand, Shaft Jeans, Original Penguin, Pantofola D’Oro, S.Oliver, Vittozzi, Natural World, Café Noir and Fly London.

will be atmospherically staged here. Forum Touch, on the other hand, serves as a comprehensive information pool for textures and surfaces. New collections and a unique supporting programme will provide retailers with broad-based information on the latest innovations in the shoe sector. Running in parallel to GDS, tag it! will be held for the fourth time as a trade show in the private label segment. For the first time, however, tag it! will be staged in Hall 1 of Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre. International flair is at the forefront here

with manufacturers from Asia presenting their collections, particularly aimed at international retailers of shoes and accessories with a focus on sourcing and private label productions. Brands confirmed include Lottusse, Shoesme, Shoo Pom, Shwik, Move by Melton, Kickers Kids, Astaire, Mod‘8 and Robeez. Strong representation from newcomers comes from the likes of Oliver Sweeney, La Bottega di Lisa, Roy Robson, Another Bag, Lyle&Scott, Rockland, Franzini, Via Scarpa, 2 Street Level and EMU Australia Kids.

GDS

WHERE: DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY WHEN: 10-12 FEBRUARY, 2016 The A/W edition of GDS will offer exciting collections, a comprehensive trend programme as well as fresh inspirations for retailers to design their ranges. Inspired by the shopping metropolises of this world, the Studio, Highstreet and Pop Up lifestyle worlds will reflect the entire range from urban to hip labels and modern to classic styles, through to premium shoe fashions. GDS also has a comprehensive trend line-up in store. Once again, the overarching trend theme will be impressively staged on the Highlight Route. The topical Digital Craft motif – which featured at the last edition of GDS - will now be further developed for February 2016. Under the motto, Fusion of Digital and Real Life Shop Experience, the analogue and digital world will be brought together in a meaningful way. The Trend Spots in Hall 5 provide comprehensive insights into the seasonal trends for 2016. Trends and innovations

16 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

AUTUMN COLLECTION 2016

OLYMP Luxor

OLYMP Level Five

OLYMP No 6 Six

OLYMP Level Five Casual

OLYMP Casual

ExpoCenter City, Jafféstraße Hall 2, Stand 2.34 19 -21 Jan. 2016 CIFF Copenhagen 3-5 Feb. 2016 Moda Menswear Birmingham 21-23 Feb. 2016 OLYMP Showroom Düsseldorf Halle 29, Rheinmetall Allee 3 Contact R. E. Flanagan & Sons Ltd. Dublin 17 Phone 01/8 02 20 18 flanagan@olymp.com

OLYMP Bezner KG · Höpfigheimer Straße 19 · 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen · GERMANY Telefon +49 7142 592- 0 · Fax +49 7142 592-19 · mail@olymp.com · www.olymp.com

SHOWTALK

PURE LONDON WHERE: LONDON OLYMPIA WHEN: 14-16 FEBRUARY, 2016

MODA

WHERE: NEC BIRMINGHAM WHEN: 21–23 FEBRUARY 2016 Moda is set to launch two new areas for its forthcoming February edition: Outdoor Lifestyle and a combined unisex border. Firstly, Outdoor Lifestyle will bring together style and outdoor performance properties with a strong focus on heritage and British design. With flagship exhibitors Alan Paine, Gurteen, Viyella and Bladen leading the way, the introduction will see Moda go off the beaten track with inspired collections for both men and women. International newcomers Channel Jumper and CAP Frehel will also showcase their autumn offer within this new area. Additionally, this edition will see the introduction of a combined border between Menswear and Womenswear, offering exhibitors and visitors the chance to showcase and view collections with a unisex lifestyle offer. Brands confirmed for the February show include Gabicci, Brook Taverner, Eterna, Magee, Eden Park and Gibson.

Pure London has announced the first line-up of brands set to exhibit within its all-new menswear section in February, showcasing A/W’16 collections across apparel, footwear and accessories. The launch of Pure Menswear forms part of a bold plan to re-edit and refresh the show, enhancing its new-look interior while offering buyers and retailers a one-stop Central London destination to source both men’s and womenswear collections under one roof. Positioned at the front of the Grand Hall alongside premium and contemporary womenswear collections, the new section will showcase the latest wares from brands including Bravesoul, White Stuff, Balmedor, Brancaccio C., Haber & Dasher, Ljung, Shackleton, Claudio Lugli, Peter Gribby, Jacksin, Noble Wilde, Blow Ties and Tom Smarte. In line with the menswear launch, Pure London will also introduce new content throughout the season as part of its 365 digital approach, with seminar content tailored towards menswear brands, retailers and media. Speakers already confirmed include Simon Middleton, Founder of The Shackleton Design & Manufacturing Company, and David Mullane, Founding Director of The Warehouse. The pair will add to the show’s inspiring content programme which, teamed with the contemporary menswear offering, will cater to menswear and lifestyle retailers in search of new and exciting products; as well as Pure London’s loyal audience of womenswear, footwear and accessories buyers and retailers from across the UK and further afield. Exhibitors, meanwhile, include a wealth of top menswear brands such as BMB Clothing, Marbek, Double Two, Raw Indigo, Hanro, NeeD Japan and Wolsey

LONDONEDGE

WHERE: OLYMPIA WEST, KENNSINGTON, LONDON WHEN: 7-9 FEBRUARY, 2016 LondonEdge attracts buyers from all over the world thanks to the treasure chest of alternative style and culture on show. Within walking distance from some of the most iconic bars and clubs on Kensington High Street, the location will provide the perfect backdrop for all that the event has to offer. A celebration of the cool, vintage, edgy and contemporary, buyers, visitors and journalists alike flock to the show yearon-year for a sneak preview of what the future season holds from the cutting edge collections exhibited. Whether it’s flirty vintage frocks, rainbow hair colours, hot street wear styles or out-there make-up, London Edge never fails to deliver. The many underground styles at LondonEdge are rebooted again and again, allowing buyers to confidently and fully invest in the insightful and bold trends on show as a new generation of cutting edge designers make their mark. Confirmed exhibitors include Hell Bunny, Queen of Darkness, Iron Fist, Sourpuss, Voodoo Vixen, Bettie Page and Miss Candyfloss. Newcomers include Motel, Zoe Vine, Love U R Look and Angry Itch.

FASHION CITY FOOTWEAR EVENT

WHERE: FASHION CITY, BALLYMOUNT, DUBLIN 24 WHEN: 1-5 FEBRUARY A host of leading footwear brands will be showcasing their respective AW16 collections at Fashion City from 1-5 February, 2016. Brands showing at the five-day event include Startrite, Lelli Kelly, Primigi, Hotter, Superfit, Pediped and Legero. Opening hours are 9am to 5pm daily.

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 17

INTERVIEW

THE OTHER SIDE OF IN A NEW FEATURE TO MENSWEAR, WHERE WE CATCH UP WITH SOME OF THE KEY FIGURES IN THE IRISH FASHION SECTOR TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THEM AWAY FROM THE BUSINESS, WE KICK OFF WITH MENSWEAR STALWART AND FORMER IRELAND RUGBY INTERNATIONAL, THE EVER-AFFABLE OLLIE CAMPBELL interesting place I have ever been to on holiday is New Orleans, aka The Big Easy, probably the most unique city in the US. In all over the years, I have been to 10 American States, which, as an American once told me, is about nine more than most Americans! OLLIE CAMPBELL

ith a career spanning four decades in the rag trade, there is little, if anything, that Ollie Campbell doesn’t know. His entry into the industry was anything but planned, though. After graduating from the College of Commerce Rathmines in Dublin in 1976 with a Business Diploma, he was faced with a less than buoyant job market. “My father was the managing director of A. Horton Ltd. at the time,” Campbell recalls, “and, as there were not many jobs available, I agreed to join the company for six months – “until something better turned up”, as he put it. I am still waiting for “something better” to turn up!” Campbell currently looks after Dutch casualwear brand Baileys/Giordano, which has been supplying Irish retailers for almost 40 years now; Eden Park, the French fashion brand which is one of the main sponsors of the IRFU and the Irish rugby team; and German brand Seidensticker, the largest shirt company in Europe which manufacturer a staggering 17 million shirts a year. Invoiced sales to Ireland between the three labels for 2015 represent an increase of almost 30% on figures for 2014, according to Campbell, so it’s little wonder that he’s in a jovial mood. And no better time to get the questions rolling…. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Chapter One in Dublin and, of course, Roger’s Café here in Fashion City! Chapter One because it ticks all the boxes that anyone would want from any restaurant in terms of food, wine, atmosphere, décor, location and the welcome I always get on my all-toorare visits there. Roger’s Café is my most frequented restaurant and I would starve if it weren’t for Roger! FAVOURITE HOLIDAY DESTINATION? The most 18 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

FAVOURITE TV SHOW? Other than sport I don’t really watch very much TV. Rather boringly, I have become a bit of a news junkie in recent years, though. I like to watch the news and current affairs programmes when I can to keep up with what’s going on in the real world outside of Fashion City and the menswear business. FAVOURITE FILM? It’s A Wonderful Life. For those who have seen it, there is no reason to explain why this would be anyone’s favourite film. For anyone who hasn’t seen it, I would just encourage them to see it sometime, especially around Christmas - every Christmas! A timeless classic. FAVOURITE ACTOR? James Stewart who plays George Bailey in that film. FAVOURITE BOOK? “Bob Scott on Rugby” is the first book on rugby I was ever given - by a Jesuit in Belvedere College, my alma mater. Bob Scott is one of the most famous All Blacks in history. I can remember the first sentence of the first chapter to this day: “Attack is the science, the essence and the art of rugby football.” Many years later I corresponded with him. Ironically he ran a menswear shop in Wellington all his life. To this day, a Bob Scott tie is the most cherished in New Zealand. FAVOURITE DESIGNER? For obvious reasons, the designers in Baileys, Eden Park and Seidensticker! FAVOURITE CAR? My beautiful black Volvo C70, which was stolen at a filling station early one Sunday morning in Dublin exactly 10 years ago. I only had it for a year. Rumour has it that the keys were in the ignition at the time - but my lips are sealed! Two very kind, understanding and sympathetic Garda drove me home after this

traumatic event. A week later, I met a couple at a reception who had seen me being put into the back of the Garda car at the filling station. After I had explained what had happened, they told me they would leave it to my imagination as to what they thought had happened! HOW YOU RELAX AWAY FROM THE JOB? I generally immerse myself in rugby, rugby and occasionally, just for variety, some more rugby! WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN TEN YEARS’ TIME? Probably here [in HIS office/showroom in Fashion City]! Noel Coward once said that work should be more fun than fun. Now that the worst of the recession seems to be behind us, this is my new mantra. IF I COULD BE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW, I’D BE…. In New Zealand. I have had a fascination with the country since my Dad brought me to my first international when Ireland played Wilson Whinerary’s All Blacks in Lansdowne Road [“the oldest international rugby ground in the World” as he always reminded me] in December 1963. Exactly 20 years later, I toured New Zealand with the 1983 Lions. I have only ever been there in the winter, though, so seeing it in the summer is on my bucket list, as there are places there that get more sun than Florida. Not many people know it but the original names of the North Island, South Island and Stewart Island [where there are more kiwis than humans] were New Ulster, New Munster and New Leinster, so there is obviously a long historical connection between both countries. The captain of the first NZ team [called The Originals] to tour these islands in 1905 was a man called Dave Gallaher. They won 34 games and lost one, and it was on this tour that they were christened ‘The All Blacks’. Dave Gallaher is revered in New Zealand to this day and amazingly he was born in Ramelton, Co Donegal, where ironically the family actually owned a drapers shop. WHAT INSPIRES YOU? Music. As an old Jesuit priest used to always say, “Without music, life would not be worth living.”

INTERVIEW

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 19

VOXPOP

2015 THE YEAR THAT WAS HOW HAS BUSINESS BEEN? HAVE CONSUMER SPENDING PATTERNS CHANGED? AND WAS BLACK FRIDAY A BLESSING OR A CURSE? SIX OF THE COUNTRY’S INDEPENDENTS SHARE THEIR VIEWS AND EXPERIENCE OF THESE AND OTHER BUSINESS MATTERS OVER THE PAST 12 MONTHS

MICHEÁL MORAN

FREDDIE O’MELIA

TRALEE, CO. KERRY

MAYNOOTH, CO. KILDARE

“It has been a good year for us. There definitely seems to be more confidence in the economy, which is reflected in sales and footfall.

“We’re very happy with the year. We noticed a little bit of an improvement – not huge. However, sales are going up rather than down, so that’s a plus!

“When it came to sales, we had the traditional two – one in winter and one in summer. Lots of other stores started their sales in June, but we held back until July. We also embraced Black Friday, although we didn’t go mad; we offered discounts of 10 – 20 per cent.

“We only do two sales a year – autumn / winter and summer. We avoided Black Friday as we saw it as nothing more than a gimmick. People are sensible – they know these sales aren’t genuine. In America where it originated, customers are already turning away from it. Ireland jumped on the bandwagon, but I’m not sure how long it will last. Customers know that what’s been sold is, basically, rubbish.

OWNER OF RYLE MENSWEAR,

OWNER OF DAWNSON’S, LEINSTER ST,

NIGEL PIERCE

OWNER OF CHARLES PIERCE MENSWEAR, MAIN STREET, WEXFORD, CO. WEXFORD

“A new addition for us here this year was Ted Baker and the range has proven hugely popular so far. In general, suits have been strong for us - brands like Boss and Remus. We look after weddings, which is one of the reasons we’ve seen strong sales in this area.”

Gant sold well at Noel’s Men’s & Boyswear

20 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

“Something we noticed is a return in confidence amongst our customers. It’s not so much that they are earning more money – they’re not – but they have gotten used to the situation. They have gotten rid of heavy debt and are now moving forward and making better and wiser decisions with regards to how they’re spending their money.”

Pope shirts have proved popular

“Overall, there definitely has been an improvement this year, although we saw the best rate of improvement earlier in the year with things slowing down in October and November, which goes against what the media has been reporting. In saying that, we are really happy with the way things went over the past 12 months and have our fingers crossed that this will continue in 2016. “With regards to sales, I feel that customers aren’t foolish and know that many sales aren’t genuine – that stores are purchasing in stock specifically for sales. We believe that the function of a sale is to clear stock and end-of-lines and so only have sales twice a year – in July and following Christmas. This year, we took part in Black Friday and it was great for us, although we suffered the next day. “Highlights over the year include the popularity of our formal collections. Many of our customers were dressing for functions and occasions, such as weddings and debs, so there was plenty of interest in our suits.”

Tommy Bowe footwear

VOXPOP

GARRY LONG

DIRECTOR OF NOEL’S MENS & BOYSWEAR, WICKHAM ST / NEWCASTLE WEST / BEDFORD ROW, LIMERICK

“We have three stores – our third just opened in Bedford Row in midNovember – so there’s been a lot of activity over the past 12 months for us.

CONOR MALONE STAFF AT EDDIE MURPHY MENSWEAR, BALLHAUNIS, CO. MAYO

Benetti casualwear was a strong seller

JOHN FRANCIS WALDRON

OWNER OF JOHN FRANCIS WALDRON, NORTHGATE STREET, ATHLONE, CO. WESTMEATH

“2015 was an okay year for us. We levelled off with 2014, which, I suppose, is a good sign. We’re in business for 44 years, so the very fact that we are still here is an achievement in itself! “We had just two sales over the year – winter and summer – and were quite happy with how they went. Stock moved, which is the main thing. We also marked Black Friday this year and had numerous special offers, and we were very happy with the results. I already have a few ideas up my sleeve for Black Friday next year! “Looking back over the past 12 months, the biggest success story for us was our formal clothes. We did very good business, particularly with our navy three-piece suits. For years, we have been dressing grooms and the best men for weddings but, recently, customers like to be dressed sharply for all sorts of occasion, and not just when they’re in the wedding party.”

“It has been the best year for us ever – and that’s across the board. A particular strength has been our suits. Now, unlike a few years ago, people are buying their suits as opposed to renting them. Furthermore, our customers, especially wedding parties, think nothing of spending anything from €700 to €1000 – unlike a few years ago where customers wanted them for between €100 and €200. “Our online store is doing really well for us, too – especially at Christmas when people were looking for gifts. “We really invest in our sales here and are always thinking of new opportunities. Apart from the summer and winter sales, we did Black Friday where we offered 20 per cent discounts on some brands like Tommy Hilfiger and 25 per cent on others like Benetti. “For Cyber Monday, we offered 20 per cent across our online sales. We also celebrated our 21st anniversary this year, so we offered 21 per cent discounts during that time for two weeks. During graduation season, we also offered many specials, like shirtand-tie combinations. “Brands that have been doing well for us this year include Tommy Bowe footwear and Superdry’s casual range. Benetti was popular for casual wear such as blazers, V-necks and casual shirts – customers really get value for money with this brand. In suits, Remus, Benetti and Tommy Hilfiger did great business for us.”

“Across the two stores, we have had a good year with sales marginally up on the year before. The start of 2015 was slow, particularly January through to March, but after that, things stabilised. September was great and October, which is known for being a difficult month, was actually good for us this time around. “While footfall has increased dramatically, we see that customers are purchasing more items at the till and, overall, prices aren’t as important as a few years ago, say. “We have the usual sales throughout the year – summer and winter – but we’re always thinking of new ways to reach out to customers. For Black Friday, we took an approach called Beat the Clock, where we had 20 per cent discounts in the morning, 15 per cent in the afternoon and 10 per cent in the evening. Also, in May, to mark the anniversary of denim, we had a sale on our jeans where we offer a 50 per cent discount. Local radio gets involved and it’s all a little bit different. “Our big seller this year was our suits. We look after a lot of weddings, but I also think that because of the uptick in the economy, people are purchasing more expensive items again such as suits. There was a time a few years back where you’d see businessmen’s suits falling off them! “Across the board, brands that have done well for us this year include Gant, Eden Park, Barbour and Brent Pope shirts. Our footwear has really taken off this year as well. During the recession years, we probably saw footwear as an add-on rather than an investment, something that we have since addressed and will continue to do so next year.”

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 21

SHOPCALL

SHOPCALL HAVING BEEN IN BUSINESS OVER FOUR DECADES, BOGART MENSWEAR, WHICH HAS STORES IN BELFAST AND NEWRY, IS RECOGNISED AS ONE OF IRELAND‘S LEADING FASHION STORES. HOPES WERE HIGH, THEN, AS OUR MYSTERY SHOPPER PAID A VISIT TO THE BELFAST BRANCH ON ANNE STREET ON A BUSY SATURDAY AFTERNOON IN THE RUN-UP TO CHRISTMAS LOCATION A prime location in the heart of the city — where it has been based for 44 years and counting — and within a stone’s throw of the popular Victoria Square Shopping Centre ensures that Bogart Menswear benefits from a steady footfall. A number of high-street fashion stores such as H&M and Next are located in the vicinity, particularly in Victoria Square, but there are few, if any, independent retailers that boast anything like its extensive range of stock. FIRST IMPRESSIONS Well-presented windows serve their purpose and catch the eye of passersby while providing an indication of the extensive stock within. Everything from shirts and ties to braces, suits, blazers, overcoats, shoes, scarves and bow-ties is displayed yet the overall effect manages to be neat and cohesive without any rusk of clutter. In a nice festive touch, there’s even room for a few miniature Christmas trees. DÉCOR Inside, the store’s décor is unlikely to grace the pages of an interior design glossy but the fit-out is perfectly functional. Pale wooden floors are complemented by cream tones on the walls and ceiling, providing a neutral canvas against which the clothing can stand out.

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DISPLAY Although by no means a small store, Bogart — which is laid out over two levels – works hard to make the most of the available space. A clever layout sees the upper level dedicated to suiting, while the ground floor comprises two adjoining rooms: one selling a superb selection of Eterna shirts and the other home to everything from jumpers and overcoats to blazers, belts, jeans, ties and casual shirts. STOCK Bogart’s website (www.bogart.co.uk) mentions how, “… we pride ourselves on delivering an unrivalled customer service, stocking a wide range of leading designer brands including Barbour, RM Williams, Eterna, Loake, Strellson, and Lyle & Scott.” A quick visit to the store suggests that this is something of an understatement; the scope of brands available is superb. In addition to a vast range of Eterna shirts, the sizeable stock boasts everything from (deep breath) Camel Active, Douglas, Hatico, Loake, Tommy Hilfiger, Remus Uomo, Carl Gross, Barbour, Drifter, André, Baumler and Robert Noble to Reda, Lloyd Attree & Smith Bugatti, Strellson, Magee, Lyle & Scott, Herbie Frogg, Hawick Knitwear, Jacques Britt and RM Williams. Overhead, suits run the gamut of styles and are available at impressive range of price points. The ground floor, meanwhile, is host

to casualwear – everything from jeans and jumpers to blazers, Barbour jackets, overcoats and shirts – and a selection of accessories including scarves, socks, shoes and belts. SERVICE Bogart’s staff are instantly notable for their utter professionalism. All of those working the shop floor were happily engaging with customers, whether offering guidance and advice, handling a sale at the till or assisting with a fitting. We dealt with an incredibly friendly gentleman, Sean, who was a credit to the shop: immaculately presented, extremely knowledgeable about the stock and very friendly. Top marks! OVERALL Making an unscheduled visit to any store can be testing at the best of times, not least in the frantic festive period, but Bogart Menswear proved just why it is so long established and why it continues to provide a major draw for the fashion-conscious men of Belfast and beyond. If any clothing display appears less than immaculate in the photography, it is simply because of the high level of customer traffic, many of who were keen to examine the stock prior to making a purchase. With its excellent staff, impressive range of clothing and price points and diversity of brands, the store certainly lives up to its deserved reputation.

bugatti-fashion.com

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

STEPHEN LYNCH, 62A LOWER CAMDEN STREET, DUBLIN 2, IRELAND, MOBILE: +353 (0) 87 256 5706, EMAIL: STEPHEN@LYNCHAGENCIES.COM

SUIT TRENDS

DRESSED TO THRILL

ON THE CATWALK

hile the rise of the DBS (double-breasted suit) has been one of the most significant changes in the realm of men’s suits, truth be told, it’s one of a select few notable developments. Designers, it seems, tend to adhere to a tried-and-tested formula: a wealth of singlebreasted, two-button designs, little divergence from the black, grey and blue trio favoured the world over and the use of hardwearing but, crucially, comfortable fabrics. Little surprise, then, that suiting AW16/17 barely strays from this template. Granted, there is a welcome smattering of brown and a scarcely perceptible move away from the slim-fit designs so beloved of the major brands in recent years. The result? A broad suit offering that will do little to challenge the status quo but that should be well received by the average male.

CIFONELLI

SKOPES

CARL GROSS BLACK LINE

DOLCE & GABBANA

CARL GROSS BLACK LINE

MIRTO

CG-CLUB OF GENTS

GIORGIO ARMANI

VERSACE

24 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

GUCCI

SUIT TRENDS

DESIGNER FLAIR TOM FORD

REMUS UOMO

TRUSSARDI

SKOPES

ROY ROBSON

TOM FORD CG-CLUB OF GENTS

S.OLIVER

LARUSMIANI

J. CREW

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 25

COLLECTION REPORTS: MENSWEAR AW16 BRUHL

OVERVIEW: For AW, Bruhl’s innovative structures include optical threedimensionality. Other unique looks are achieved by prints, which are completely new and refreshing at first glance. PALETTE: The range is dominated by autumnal shades, such as tobacco, wood and berry, which are mixed with grey, silver, anthracite and military green. Blue – whether as denim, navy or various in-between shades remains a firm favourite. MATERIALS: The Bruhl Mover - a highly elastic denim with a 50 per cent stretch and outstanding resilience - was exclusively developed in association with an Italian weaver. The Stadium Trousers, made of denim, is bound to appeal to soccer fans and outdoor enthusiasts on account of their combination of comfort and warmth. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Thermotrousers with an unequalled softness, and a brushed cotton inner lining for warmth.

BUGATTI

OVERVIEW: An interesting and diverse collection in which coats focus on a relaxed, masculine look, knitted sweats look young and dynamic, suits are fitted and trousers showcase the current trend for leg hems and silhouettes. PALETTE: A stand-out here is the three colour palettes across the collection’s coats: navy, anthracite and Berber. MATERIALS: Noteworthy amongst Bugatti’s jeans collections is denim bi-stretch and satin high-stretch for comfort, while Donegal wool, nylon vests, and soft inner-collars made of teddy fabric reign supreme across the suits. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Outerwear offerings impress with their mobility and functionality. In addition to well thought-out pocket and detail solutions – including space for tablets, mobile phones and headphones – the wearer has the pleasure of an integrated power bank for two charges of their smartphone.

26 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

COLLECTIONS

www.uk.eden-park.com

Gardons L’ Élégance...* *Keep the Elegance... For wholesale enquiries, please contact Ollie Campbell ollie@olliecampbell.ie / +353 (0)86 876 8096 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 27

COLLECTIONS

CAMEL ACTIVE SOCKS

CAMEL ACTIVE

OVERVIEW: Dynamic material combinations, innovative coatings and classic fits are the key characteristic style elements across Camel Active’s Crossing Borders collections. PALETTE: The seasonal palette is based on dark and earthy shades. Blue and grey hues in different tones are the most important colour trend. Strong indigo, red and green hues are also highlights. MATERIALS: Throughout, contrasting materials and textures are combined with one another, such as wool-nylon mixtures. Different silhouettes, from boxy to long, span the entire collection. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Stretch remains the main theme in trousers with denim, in particular, proving to be a stand-out with its different structures and washes. The spectrum spans from extremely used to rinsed and raw. The overall trouser range covers hybrid cargos to tonal chinos with micro-patterns, and all the way to corduroy trousers with new finishes.

OVERVIEW: Inspired by classic workwear styles, knit structures and structured yarns are the focus of the collection. PALETTE: The colour spectrum spans from olive to blue-grey and dark grey, all the way to black. MATERIALS: Structures are created by means of patterns or yarns. Boot socks with robust structures and mouliné yarn emphasise the workwear character and provide that typical Camel Active look. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The popular cotton double packs with one colourful and one matching tonal article will also be part of the AW16 collection, and will include socks with colour gradients from the cuff to the toe or with simple stripes.

CAMEL ACTIVE UNDERWEAR CAMEL ACTIVE SHOES

OVERVIEW: The Camel Active Crossing Borders collection deals with overcoming limitations by changing perspectives. Unexpected and opposing features are combined in a new context. Camel Active footwear conveys these basic principles by mixing materials, textures and finishes. PALETTE: The colour range primarily includes different shades of black, grey and brown. Light natural colours and green round off the spectrum. MATERIALS: Hybrids and sneakers inspired by running are the highlight for men. Material mixes with 3D effects produce an innovative look. New sole designs determine the look of the sneakers overall. The shell soles with 3D effects stand out even more. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: In the new season, the blend of different styles and materials has produced eyecatching footwear, such as high-top sneakers and robust workwear boots.

28 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

OVERVIEW: Classic cuts and innovative fabric blends are the key features of the AW16 collection, which includes the impressive CA 30 series as a new addition. PALETTE: Colours such as white, red, blue, black and mottled grey are used to great effect throughout the collections, achieving a strong, masculine outcome. MATERIALS: The CA 29 Function Fit series features an innovative combination of cotton, polyamide and elastane, giving the pants and matching tops functionality and elasticity. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Thanks to their comfortably wide fit, the checked CA 11 cotton boxer shorts – which are made from fine, yarn-dyed cotton - can be perfectly coordinated with the tops from all underwear series.

COLLECTIONS

CARL GROSS

OVERVIEW: AW16 sees no significant changes in the silhouettes. The fashionable Sharp Fit collection, followed by the Modern Fit, still plays the starring role and determines the fits within the entire ready-to wear collection. PALETTE: Classics such as navy, black and grey define the basic colours, complemented by olive, brown and beige shades. Jeanstype blue shades, berry, Bordeaux and burgundy colours set accents. MATERIALS: The concept of travel inspires exciting features such as breathable, climate-regulating and airy, knitted mesh patterns. Crease-resistant finish and waterand dirt-repellent properties are of everincreasing importance. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The key look here is masculine and body-hugging, without disregarding the required comfort. This applies both for suits and single jackets.

LERROS FASHION IRELAND LTD. - UNIT 35A & 35B - FASHION CITY - BALLYMOUNT ROAD UPPER - DUBLIN 24 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 29 DAN O'CALLAGHAN - MOBILE: 086-7833264 - EMAIL: DANOC@LERROS.COM

COLLECTIONS

CG-CLUB OF GENTS

OVERVIEW: An extensive AW16 offering impresses with its diversity and quality. The young fitted suit comes in a variety of patterns and designs, while 3D effects give rise to volume, structures and dynamic surfaces. PALETTE: Diverse and daring, the seasonal palette is epitomised by the new collection of shirts, which boasts a strong colour range incorporating blue, grey and green, accentuated by vivid red and yellow shades. MATERIALS: With the help of bouclé yarns, the Business suits, for instance, make use of slightly polished Donegals and flannels in blended looks. Irregular striped patterns, fine graphic checks and banker stripes provide the suits with a touch of dandy. The three-piece suit enhances this look, expanding the suit portfolio. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: A covetable knitwear range sees chunky knits veering towards an oversized fit. Designs range from newly interpreted round-necks with the look and feel of sweaters, via hoodies with zips and shawl-collar cardigans, down to knitted bomber and baseball jackets and rugged shawl-collar cardigans.

DOUBLE TWO

OVERVIEW: Double Two’s formal collection for AW16 continues to offer the new Slim Fit shirt as an option on a wide variety of the standard styles. PALETTE: Warm and rich with autumnal tones of brown, red, green and gold, as well as the ubiquitous colours of navy, charcoal, blue and lilac, enlivened and lifted by plum with lemon adding clarity to crisp cotton shirts. MATERIALS: Taking centre stage here is handle twill, herringbone, bonded fleece fabrics, rugged washed corduroy, chunky weave oxfords, casual washed cotton poplins and soft touch modals. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Long-sleeve Henleys and suede finish fleece hoodies are sure to keep the icy winds at bay. Their new Slim Fit continues to impress and is now a regular feature in the Bar Harbour collection.

JOULES

EDEN PARK

OVERVIEW: Eden Park offers a collection where the garment takes a modern look through a choice of materials. Attention to detail continues to be a key feature. The sports line remains traditional and, this season, it consists of two themes: Authentic Sports University and Sports Cruise. PALETTE: The colours this season are natural and echo those found on the roofs of Paris, such as shades of grey, brown, khaki green, blue and beige. MATERIALS: Hooped jersey and 100 per cent cotton mélange is positioning itself to be a centrepiece this season. What’s more, the various combinations of nylon and wool should also prove popular. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Winter without a sweater is not possible and this season it is of great importance. Eden Park offers a full range where the material provides a delicate touch. The turtlenecks and V-neck cardigan sweaters are also deserved of recognition.

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OVERVIEW: For AW16, Joules is celebrating all that autumn and winter offers with a range designed to help customers enjoy the great outdoors or relaxed indoors in style, no matter what the weather. PALETTE: An overall contemporary palette creates freshness. Key colours include purple, brown, blue and grey; in fact, grey is the new navy this season. Bright pops of colour can be found in trims and accessories for a fresh feel. MATERIALS: By way of illustrating what is on offer, the Pheasant Plucker capsule, for example, comprises of seasonally warmer handles while knitwear and tweeds are introduced from traditional yarns. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Shirting is big, with checks feeling clean and contemporary. Furthermore, checks also move to traditional tartans in fresh colour combinations.

COLLECTIONS

ETERNA

OVERVIEW: In the AW16 collection, harmonious autumn colours await, ideal for both professional and private occasions. Structured fabrics, new types of check and interpretations of well-known patterns will brighten up an appearance even with muted colours. PALETTE: Worthy of a mention are the new colours found in the Urban Beats Dressy collection such as rosewood, bluemoon and the cool triton green tone – all of which is given a masculine interpretation. MATERIALS: Amongst the more casual options, cashmere flannel and peach poplin emerge triumphant. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The premium line, 1863, features elegant fabrics of fine twill, high-quality natural stretch for a perfect fit and two-ply with a brilliant depth of colour. The palette ranges from blue through to rosé and brown tones. One of the highlights is a striped pattern overlaid with floral foliage.

GORDON SHANNY · PHONE: 061 349090 FAX: 061 341366 · MOBILE: 086 815 4555 E-MAIL: GORDONSHANNY@EIRCOM.NET WWW.C-BRUEHL.COM

MENSWEAR in Ireland | 31

COLLECTIONS

MAC

OVERVIEW: Elegant, sporty, modern, refined, sustainable and a casual lifestyle are the keywords that describe the new MAC collection. PALETTE: Throughout, colours such as olive, khaki, dark brown, red, grey, blue, white and black bring vitality and energy to the various offerings. MATERIALS: Assorted fabrics feature in the range. The sportswear collection, for instance, utilises multifunctional hybrid fabrics, which contain a strikingly warm cotton material with added stretch. Elsewhere, materials featured in the jeans selection include the best vintage denim from one of Italy’s most famous laundry shops. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The third collection theme, Classic Metropolitan, places its focus on modern classicism and offers an urban, trendy and, for the most part, clean look. High-quality sartorial workmanship and a British touch complete the picture.

MEYER

OVERVIEW: Meyer is expanding its collection to include a specially chosen high-quality range in eight selected materials. The brand’s unique selling point is its elaborate features and superb craftsmanship. PALETTE: Prints and 3D optics are also a major theme for AW16. A colour-coordinated belt on all cotton trousers adds a finishing touch to the trend. MATERIALS: Meyer is focusing on slim silhouettes with modern foot widths. They‘re offering several styles in the latest Italian fit, such as their successful Bonn with a foot width of 38 cm. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The high-quality leather belt collection has been expanded to include special colours such as navy and Bordeaux, and a sporty jeans belt.

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COLLECTIONS

OLYMP

OVERVIEW: New combinations of cuts and colours create exciting looks. Street styles demonstrate how the catwalk look can be translated into everyday fashion. At the same time, the borders between business and casual are becoming less defined. PALETTE: Colours range from colourful dark tones right through to warm grey tones. An appealing intensity juxtaposes a sense of vitality with peace. MATERIALS: A stand-out is found in the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Newfoundland collection where knitwear, in its most casual form, dominates. It includes super-soft lambswool in new jacket designs and a variety of pullover styles. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Classic knitted blazers in contemporary yarns or in bonded jersey are the ideal combination partners in both the classic and casual ranges, and take pride of place within this collection.

THE NEXT STEP LERROS ACCESSOIRES FROM JANUARY 2016 PANORAMA BERLIN HALL 2 STAND 2.46

LERROS FASHION IRELAND LTD. - UNIT 35A & 35B - FASHION CITY - BALLYMOUNT ROAD UPPER - DUBLIN 24 MENSWEAR in Ireland | 33 DAN O'CALLAGHAN - MOBILE: 086-7833264 - EMAIL: DANOC@LERROS.COM

COLLECTIONS

REMUS UOMO

OVERVIEW: An impressive and extensive collection which showcases what the label describes as “interesting but sophisticated” menswear. Garments effortlessly straddle the lines of formal and casual wear and boast Remus Uomo’s signature detailing in stitch, button and trim. PALETTE: A timeless masculine palette of ink blues, navy, chambray and deep, rich greys is used across the collection, allowing for easy co-ordination of the respective garments. Accent colours such as teal, claret and aubergine inject a vibrant touch and allow the wearer to create a full look with ease. MATERIALS: The collection sees a focus on texture, with a host of new and interesting fabrics, weaves and finishes. Jacquard weaves, bold checks and subtle geometrics create understated yet striking design throughout the tailoring and casualwear collections. Brushed and lofted ‘warm touch’ finishes are used for fine woollen suitings, while structured cotton and merino-wool blends are used for shirting and knitwear respectively. Elsewhere, fine velour is utilised in a new eveningwear offering for the brand. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: The brand’s signature Italian style tailoring highlights slim and sharp silhouettes with characteristically slender trouser lines, whilst their commitment to continual refinement is seen in the development of softer more relaxed shapes in formal and soft-tailoring. Elsewhere, rich ruby red and midnight blue dinner jackets add a distinctly dapper touch.

SEIDENSTICKER

OVERVIEW: This season, Seidensticker is celebrating art. Inspired by various styles of art and design history, the shirt is staged in a creative context and interpreted in a contemporary – and market-relevant – way. PALETTE: Influenced by the colour schemes of Art Deco, rich colours play an important role here such as deep red and emerald blue. At times, however, colours get spicy, notably roasted orange and dark green tones. MATERIALS: 100 per cent cotton with a natural stretch is the focus for the season. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: Printed upper fabrics have established themselves as a fixed part of the Seidensticker collections and are now of equal importance to checks, stripes and monochrome. The Degradé print impresses as the new top highlight, providing a certain twist as a subtle, adjusted pattern. 34 | MENSWEAR in Ireland

A U T U M N W I N T E R 2016 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT O U R D U B L I N S H O W R O O M , FA S H I O N C I T Y P L E A S E C O N TA C T: N I A M H D O N N E L LY

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E : T R A D E @ J O U L E S . C O. U K MENSWEAR in Ireland | 35

COLLECTIONS

SKOPES

OVERVIEW: In what is their most comprehensive collection to date, the Skopes AW16 range features an extensive yet commercial mix of on-trend and classic styles. PALETTE: Strong, earthy shades are key across the various options while two new seasonal trousers include a winter chino and an improved quality corduroy in five different colours. MATERIALS: Tweed and melton feature in both tailored and classic fits - highlights include the Castlehill tweed jacket in rust and the Swainby tweed jacket in lovat with red check. Classic Donegal is complemented with soft flannel and chenille fabrics. FASHION HIGHLIGHTS: In the outerwear selection, look out for the Camden coat with a knitted shawl collar and two-tone birdseye fabric, and the new Holborn overcoat. Last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winner, the Cromwell herringbone overcoat with velvet collar, returns with a new navy option.

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ARE YOU

DENIM ENOUGH?

DISCOVER OUR NEW AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION PANORAMA, BERLIN: 19.– 21.01.16 MODA, BIRMINGHAM: 21.– 23.02.16 | HALL 18, STAND L50

CONTACT SHOWROOM MANCHESTER: STUDIO 18 RUTLAND HOUSE | HILTON STREET | GB - MANCHESTER M1 1FR PHONE: 0044 7887881172 | E-MAIL: MARC.THOMPSON@ENYALTD.CO.UK CONTACT SHOWROOM DUBLIN: FASHION CITY, UNIT 37, FIRST FLOOR | BALLYMOUNT ROAD UPPER | DUBLIN 24, IRELAND PHONE: 0035 3870994433 | E-MAIL: ASH@ENYALTD.CO.UK CONTACT SHOWROOM LONDON: ENYA LTD, FIRST FLOOR | 53 BOLSOVER STREET | LONDON W1 5NG PHONE: 0044 7834176938 | E-MAIL: JAMIE@ENYALTD.CO.UK