September October 2014 issue by Sky Publishing

September/OCTOBER 2014

VOX POP: NORTHERN IRELAND’S RETAILERS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH WILLIAM MCCOTTER TRENDS: LADIESWEAR AW15

All important trends. All strong brands. Straight at the beginning of the season. In a first-class environment.

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contents September/October 2014

The summer may be over but there’s plenty to cheer, it seems. Domestically, there are some positive indicators that the economy, so long in the doldrums, is making significant progress. The motoring, travel and restaurant sectors are all showing a surge in customer spending, while online spending is most definitely on the up, with revenues having increased by a whopping 51 per cent in the second quarter of this year. A reason to be optimistic? We certainly think so. Whether the clothing and fashion industries can report such a positive state of affairs is debatable, but there’s little doubt that many involved in the sectors – whether they be agents, retailers or wholesalers – are reporting a definite lifting of the gloom. Long may it continue! The ever-affable Bill McCotter, the Belfast-based Irish agent for Eterna, proves a fascinating interview subject, while our focus remains in Northern Ireland for our Vox Pop feature, where some of the county’s leading ladieswear indies share their views on everything from the importance of social media to their best-selling brands. Ever-conscious of the need to keep you up-to-speed on all the main developments in the domestic and international fashion markets, we’ve also included a comprehensive News section and, in our Showtalk feature, reviews of the Moda UK and Pure London trade shows. We’re back again next month. In the meantime, enjoy the read!

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Vox Pop: Northern Ireland Retailers

Trends: Ladieswear

Interview: William McCotter

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Cover Image: Autumn Winter Collection available from the Tommy Hilfiger store Grafton Street, select retailers nationwide and tommy.com

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FUTURA Ireland’s Fashion Business Magazine

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

news Ciaran Gormley Crownded Young Designer of the Year Ciaran Gormley was crowned the 2014 Dublin Fashion Festival Young Designer of the Year for his spectacular design at one of the city’s most watched fashion events at Bank of Ireland on College Green. Hosted by two of Ireland’s leading commentators, stylists and designers, Sonya Lennon and Brendan Courtney of Lennon Courtney, the Young Designer of the Year fashion show took place on 4 September and showcased pieces from 12 of Ireland’s leading up-and-coming designers. The judging panel, who were tasked with choosing the most creative and innovative design, included Irish Independent’s fashion editor, Bairbre Power; fashion photographer, Barry McCall; Stacey O’Donnell, head of personal shopping at Brown Thomas; and Deirdre Devaney, ladies’ fashion director at Arnotts. The judges unanimously chose Gormley as the winner for his exquisite design and impeccable craftsmanship. The young designer’s electric blue knitted gown stood out as the perfect ode to intricate Irish design, trailing in the footsteps of fashion greats Elena Keogh and Tim Ryan by reinventing traditional Irish knitwear with a spectacular modern twist. Commenting on the event, Clyde Carroll, festival director, said: “The works of the 12 young Irish designers are of such a high standard and looked so impressive on the catwalk here this evening. “I did not envy the judging panel on choosing one overall winner! However, Dublin Fashion

Festival is very proud to welcome Ciaran to our young designer fold, along with last year’s winner Claire Lynam. Claire has gone out to do great things and now works as a design assistant at River Island headquarters in London, so I have no doubt that Ciaran will go on to achieve great success. The team at Dublin Fashion Festival looks forward to seeing his fashion career progress over the coming months.”

Talented Tailor is Top of the Class An Irish costume designer has been announced as the first-ever recipient of the Excellence in Craftsmanship Award at the inaugural National Tailoring Academy Graduate Fashion Show. Caroline Butler, a Dublin native who has spent many years working in Irish theatre, including the international tour

Caroline Butler, Fionn O’Dubhghaill, Alison McEvoy

of Riverdance, is one of the first three graduates to complete the CPD Diploma in Bespoke Fashion Tailoring, run by the National Tailoring Academy at Louis Copeland. Alongside Alison McEvoy and Fionn O’Dubhghaill, Butler showcased her graduate collection to a selection of Ireland’s fashion industry experts including Irish designers Helen Cody, Peter O’Brien, Brendan Courtney and Deborah Veale. Presenting the award, Louis Copeland, Director, Louis Copeland & Sons, congratulated the graduates by saying: “The National Tailoring Academy is unique in that it helps fashion graduates take the next step; honing their technical skills, while preparing them for the business of fashion. Today’s three graduates are, therefore, leading the way for students of fashion all over Ireland.” He added: “I’m particularly delighted to present this Excellence in Craftsmanship award to Caroline Butler, as someone who, throughout the year, consistently developed not only her skills but her approach to tailoring.” Butler is currently working on the Irish stage production of Borstal Boy at Dublin’s Gaiety Theatre.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

Spending Returns to Irish Economy

It appears that Irish consumers are once again happy to part with their hard-earned cash, with motors,  five-star holidays and fine-dining restaurants in particular all experiencing a boost in demand. What’s more, the latest report from Wolfgang Digital has shown a massive increase in online spending with Irish companies. Their Irish E-Commerce Study for the second quarter of this year shows that revenues have

increased by 51 per cent, while website traffic is up by 30 per cent. KBC Bank Ireland Chief Economist Austin Hughes says that this return to spending signifies that confidence amongst punters has returned on account of the many encouraging developments within the domestic economy, including a drop in unemployment and a rise in property prices.

news Hilfiger Unveils Autumn ‘14 Global Advertising Campaign

Royal Hibernian Way Becomes Catwalk

The Tommy Hilfiger Group has announced its autumn ‘14 global advertising campaign, entitled La Víe En Rõpe. The Hilfigers – the beloved all-American family at the heart of the brand’s marketing strategy – made the trek to the stunning Lake Tahoe, where California and Nevada meet.

For one night in September, the Royal Hibernian Way was transformed into a catwalk for this year’s Dublin Fashion Festival. Hosted by The Grafton Lounge and produced by Bebhinn Flood of The Design House on Dawson Street, the outdoor fashion show, Life is a Label, showcased the latest A/W trends on 6 September.

“This season, the Hilfigers are back and more adventurous than ever,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “In the Fall 2014 Collection, we updated traditional hiking and outdoor gear for modern city life. This collection has a unique blend of technical mountaineering references and traditional plaids developed in collaboration with iconic British wool mill Abraham Moon. It works well from a chalet in Aspen to the streets of New York.”

The exciting event featured retailers from the Dawson Street area including The Design House, Ruby Ruby, Rare Clothing and Alias Tom.

The Hilfigers campaign is the ultimate personification of the preppy heritage and irreverent spirit of the Tommy Hilfiger brand. To further complement the La Víe en Rõpe campaign aesthetic, Tommy Hilfiger is introducing a new brass concept logo design. The bespoke aged brass finish gives a sleek, sophisticated update to Tommy Hilfiger’s iconic logo and its classic red, white and blue colour palette. The new logo creative will appear on the autumn ‘14 campaign and all its associated materials, from in-store signage to out of home advertisements.

Harris Tweed Launches New Celtic Collection Following on from their appearance in Digby Jones - New Trouble Shooter, the popular BBC television series that develops British businesses, Harris Tweed has collaborated with Hawick Knitwear to create their new Celtic Capsule Collection.

Fashion City Launches New Facebook Page Dublin’s Fashion City, which houses the leading fashion manufactures and wholesalers with up over 500 different labels from all over the world, has just launched a Facebook page.

Described by the companies as a “tight collection”, it features the use of complementary Harris Tweed patches on carefully coloured, luxury knitwear pieces in lambswool, British wool and mohair tweed.

A useful source for all the latest news and developments, it can be found under the name, Fashion City Ireland.

Hawick Knitwear said that using Harris tweed is “not simply an embellishment” but that it enhances the sweaters, adding to their performance and authenticity. The collection was launched at the IMC menswear show in England in August and received a great response.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

news PINKO to Open Stand-Alone Store Upmarket Italian fashion label Pinko is set to open a stand-alone store in Ireland at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2. Launched in the early 1980s by Pietro Negra, the company’s current chairman, and Cristina Rubini, the ladieswear brand currently sells in high-end department

stores Brown Thomas and Arnotts, as well as in select independent retailers. The retail mix in Terminal 2, which opened in 2010, currently stands at over 20 shops. Pinko’s neighbours within the terminal will include other high-end retailers such as LK Bennett, Hugo Boss and Kurt Geiger.

Ireland Ranks As Fifth Most Expensive Country in EU Ireland is still one of the most expensive countries in the European Union, with Irish consumer prices in 2013, 18 per cent above the EU average. New figures from Eurostat reveal that we have the fifth highest consumer prices in the EU, behind Denmark, Sweden, Luxembourg and Finland. Higher business costs, such as labour costs, local authority rates and electricity prices, along with taxes and excise duties were the reason Irish prices are so high. Even though some goods such as furniture and household appliances were cheaper, this was on account of the fact that many retailers were forced to slash prices in order to keep afloat. These current prices are, at least, down on those at the end of the boom when they soared to almost 30 per cent above average. But after a steep drop, they’ve been fairly stable in the last three years.

McElhinney’s Wins Coveted Retail Award Donegal’s largest department store, Mc Elhinney’s of Ballybofey, saw off strong competition to be named Independent Department Store of the Year UK & Ireland at the recent Drapers Independents Awards in London. The annual awards ceremony – which was held at The Brewery in London – recognises the leading brands, designers, and businesses in fashion retail. The famous Ballybofey retailer, which began trading in 1971, had a night to remember at the awards ceremony. In addition to its win in the Independent Department Store of the Year category, the family-owned store was shortlisted for the Best Independent Multichannel Operator. “I’ve never been prouder of the great team that I have the pleasure of working with,” said General Manager Martin McElhinney. McElhinney’s has recently applied to the local county council for a significant four-storey extension. The decision on the planning permission is due in October.

Science Finds Key To Style is Moderate Matching The most fashionable outfits are only “moderately matched”, according to a study published by researchers from the University of North Carolina and Duke. According to their research, which takes an empirical approach to studying the objective features that make an outfit fashionable, the best outfits are those that are neither ultra-matched nor clashing. The researchers claim that this upholds a psychosocial theory called the Goldilocks Principle, which suggests that we strive to find a balance between similarity with others and individual distinctiveness.

Reseachers suggests that the most fashionable outfits are only “moderately matched”

Louis Copeland Scoops Drapers Independents Awards Irish menswear retailer Louis Copeland & Sons was the well-deserved winner of the Menswear Independent of the Year category at the recent Drapers Independents Awards 2014, which took place on 17 September. The long-standing retailer, one of Ireland’s most popular menswear stores, also took home the award for Best Store Design for its premises in Dundrum Town Centre.

General Manager Martin McElhinney and his wife Angela receiving the prestigious award of Independent Department Store of the Year UK and Ireland at the Drapers Independents Awards at The Brewery in London

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

news Timberland’s AW Footwear Collection Hits Irish Stores

Strong Performance for Gerke Following high sales in recent months, German trouser specialist has emerged as the best-selling brand in German trade publication Markt-Intern’s bestseller list for trousers, seeing off strong competition and beating Toni to the top slot.

Timberland recently unveiled its fall 2014 women’s collection, which features footwear for the busy and demanding lives of women who require sophisticated weather-proof looks for any occasion or daily adventure. With versatile designs that transition seamlessly from the city to the outdoors, the line includes beautiful booties, colourful ballet flats and weather-ready boots. “Timberland understands the high quality and style standard of today’s women, who are always on the go,” said Lisa Demarkis, VicePresident of footwear, Timberland. “To stay ahead of her needs, we’re bringing a wide range of silhouettes to the table that combine quality and style with performance features that can take her from the trails to the city. By embracing the versatility that women need, we’re making sure Timberland becomes a staple within her wardrobe.”

Net-A-Porter CEO Steps Down Following 10 years as chief executive officer of Net-A-Porter, Mark Sebba has announced his retirement. The hugely successful high-fashion retailer operates via a website designed in the style of a magazine, and over the past decade, it has also launched two other online stores, The Outnet and Mr Porter. “I am stepping down at a time when the company is stronger than ever,” Sebba recently revealed. “We have built a team of world-class writers, communicators, buyers, innovators, digital pioneers, distribution experts and more who form the foundations and DNA of this company.” Sebba will remain with the company as a non-executive director.

Reiss To Offer Men’s Underwear Reiss is set to release its first line of underwear for AW14. The high street retailer, which boasts stores in Dublin, Kildare and Belfast, said the boxer trunks are crafted from a cotton-rich blend. The trunks feature seam detail, an elasticated waistband and a fine fabrication. The trunks will have an RRP of £22 STG.

Royal Visit for Wakefield Shirt Company After the Wakefield Shirt Company was awarded the Queen’s Award for Industry for International Trade back in 2013, the historic company has now had the privilege of having the actual award presented to them by HRH the Duke of Kent. The prize giving took place at the Group’s head office in Wakefield, North England, where the directors greeted the Duke of Kent on arrival. Following this, HRH then had a tour of the factory, where he met and chatted to staff members.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

Jacket Required Develops International Presence British menswear show, Jacket Required, which hosted its latest edition in London in July, attracted buyers from around the globe, with newcomers from Australia, South Africa and South Korea in attendance. The tradeshow saw a 10% increase on exhibitors from its last edition, with 220 companies showing, in comparison with 197 earlier in the year. Jacket Required aims to showcase brands that are not exhibited in other European tradeshows, such as the Japanese label, The Fourness. Its next edition will be in January 2015.

Contact: R. E. Flanagan & Sons Ltd. 路 Dublin 17 路 Phone 01/8 02 20 18 路 flanagan@olymp.com 路 www.olymp.com

Men in OLYMP OLYMP Luxor Non-iron. Wrinkle-free. 100 % cotton.

vox pop

Northern Quarter

ladies’ retailers

As retailers in Southern Ireland hail a summer of impressive sales and strong spending, Futura heads north to speak to a selection of independent ladieswear retailers in Northern Ireland to get their views and verdicts on everything from to Social Media and trade shows to their best-performing brands. LESLEY CARSON OWNER OF SASSY BOUTIQUE LISBURN RD, BELFAST

NOLEEN JOHNSON

SHARON THOMPSON

OWNER OF NOSTALGIA

MANAGER AT TWEED’S

10 MARKET ST, DOWNPATRICK,

18 MAIN STREET, BALLYMONEY,

CO. DOWN

CO. ANTRIM

What brands are proving successful for you? Our most successful brand is Gino Cerruti for formalwear and Mother-Of-The-Bride/ Groom. Quality is good and pricing is excellent.

What brands are proving successful for you? We have had huge success with brands such

Our top-sellers would be Intown, Fransa and

as Masai, Betty Barclay and Frank Lyman.

Signature. We are drawn to fashion from

Where do you do most of your buying? Most of our buying is done at the BBEH (Bridal Buyers Exhibition Harrogate) in September. They used to have an exhibition in March but that has now been transferred to London. What tradeshows do you attend? We attend the bridal tradeshow in London, Harrogate, sometimes Moda at the NEC Birmingham in February / August and Fashion City, Dublin. Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? I just love Fashion City in Dublin for great outfits and accessories, and the fact that we don’t have to fly there is a big plus. I only visited Fashion City for the first time this year in February /March. I have made a few visits since as it’s only a short journey up the motorway, and I’m due to visit again to search for outfits for wedding customers. Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? At the moment, my spending for S/S 2015 is down but once I get to Fashion City and Harrogate I’m sure they will be up. I just can’t help buying all the lovely new stock! Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? I have started stocking Mascara, Latelier, Goya of London, Lucy Paris, Amy Childs and I am also interested in Fran & Jane. Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones? Social Media! I’m old school but am trying my best to get to grips with Facebook and Twitter.

What brands are proving successful for you?

Nordic countries like Denmark because they Where do you do most of your buying? Over the past year, we have turned to the England for a lot of our buying. Ideally, we

boast great quality at great prices. Gollehaug is also very successful for us, although the price-point would be a lot higher.

would source our collections in Ireland, which would cut down on travel costs, so we’re

Where do you do most of your buying?

always on the look out for options closer to

We would buy most of our clothing in the

home.

North and, occasionally, in the Republic.

What tradeshows do you attend? It varies every year, but we went to Moda in

What tradeshows do you attend? We wouldn’t normally visit trade shows.

Birmingham in August.

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Yes, very much so. I would travel there a

Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? We are very much aware of Fashion City and have had some dealings with them.

couple of times each season for top-ups, for example.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? They are down.

Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? Overall, spend is up.

Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in?

One new brand that has just arrived in our store is Soulmates. We are very optimistic

We are constantly keeping an eye out for new

that our customers will connect with the

brands; after all, that’s the nature of fashion –

collection.

it’s always evolving. I plan on taking on Robell trousers as well as a few others brands.

Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones?

Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones? We don’t; our owner is 83 years of age so wouldn’t be as computer literate as many of

At the moment, we have a Facebook page that

the younger companies coming up through

is proving very popular with our customers.

the ranks.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

l a di e s ’ reta ilers BERNICE & AISLING CO-OWNERS OF BERLING BOUTIQUE 28 THE MALL, NEWRY, CO. DOWN What brands are proving successful for you? The brands that are successful for us vary from Season to season. In the summer, we find that our occasion wear brands perform better on account of all the summer weddings. In particular, this season, Daisy May and Ella Boo performed well. By contrast, in the autumn, a casual brand like Arianna stands out, as it is both smart casual and dressy, catering for lots of events during the winter months. Where do you do most of your buying? We do most of our buying directly from local agents in Belfast and Dublin. Although we do enjoy the odd trip to some of the trade shows to do research on new and upcoming brands. What tradeshows do you attend? We usually attend Pure in London and we are thinking of attending Moda in Birmingham as well. Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Yes, Fashion City is a vital facility to our business as it is where we do the majority of our buying. It is 50 minutes down the road and it is convenient to do several appointments in the same day - all within walking distance. We visit it regularly so it is hard to put a number to it. Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? Our spends for S/S are most definitely down. We are trying to reign in our spending and be more cautious about the brands we buy and, in particular, the individual pieces within the brands. Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? We have looked at a few new brands that are a little bit different for us, like Surkana. Thankfully, like us, our customers are adventurous and, hopefully, will be open to the change. However, we are also quite loyal and we tend to keep brands that are easy to work with and are performing well. Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones? Yes, Social Media is an important part of our business, in particular Facebook and twitter as they allow us to interact with our customers on a daily even hourly basis. It is a great selling tool as you get immediate feedback from images and comments you post.

SHEELAGH SHERRY OWNER OF SHEELAGH MCBRIDE 17 THOMAS STREET, ARMAGH

BRENDA PARK OWNER OF DIAMOND DOLLS FASHION 50 BRIDGE STREET, BANBRIDGE,

What brands are proving successful for you? I have a number of brands but the biggest is Libra. They produce top quality garments for all occasions and the best styles every season. My customers also like Via Veneto and Aria, particularly the Mother-Of-The-Bride ranges.

What brands are proving successful for you? At Diamond Dolls, over 50% of our fashions are unique pieces, something that has proved extremely successful for us as our customers

Where do you do most of your buying? I take stock from a few locations around Ireland but most of my garments are bought in Dublin and London as the people there have so much variety to offer. What tradeshows do you attend?

like to be a little different from others, and that’s something we can guarantee here. Where do you do most of your buying? We buy our clothes, footwear, headwear

I go to Showcase at the RDS. Sometimes I will go to Pure London but the tradeshows here are really top class and expose the best fashion that my customers will love. Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Fashion City is important and it influences my buying decisions for the seasons ahead. The displays are always on trend and relevant to my target market. I have a close relationship with many of my customers and often I am buying a particular garment with one of them in mind so I come away excited about showing it to them when they call. Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down? My spend is much the same as S/S14. I had a good season and I am looking forward to getting the garments I purchased as there are some interesting new patterns and colours arriving. Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in?

and accessories from all over the world – from Northern Ireland to far-flung places like Beverly Hills. We also work with local designers directly and also support upcoming talent from universities in Northern Ireland by giving them a platform to showcase their work. What tradeshows do you attend? I am constantly attending fairs in cities like Paris, London, New York and Milan. Is Fashion City in Dublin an important buying facility to you? If so, how often do you visit? Yes. Many of the agents whom we deal with have offices in Fashion City so we are constantly in correspondence with them. Are your spends for S/S 2015 up or down?

A Parisian brand named Deca caught my attention. Their creative team provides offbeat, distinctive looks that I haven’t seen anywhere else. Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones? I use Facebook, Google Plus and Twitter to connect with my audience. The aim is to provide an enjoyable experience so I post interesting articles and fashion news because customers will get tired of posts constantly trying to get them to buy things. I also have an online shop where people can browse and buy my stock. It works perfectly on phones and tablets as well so my customers can browse when relaxing on the couch or out and about.

CO. DOWN

Summer is our big season on account of weddings and races so spend is always a little bit up. Are there any new brands that you have invested in or are interested in? Our brands are always changing and we love introducing new designers to our customers. Coming up, we have some exciting arrivals from Paris. Do you use Social Media for your business? If so, which ones? We have a very successful website and Facebook page at the moment.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

trends - ladies Trends: Ladieswear Themes for AW15

Women’s trend themes continue to play with history with an eye on the 60s, 70s and ultra feminine 50s glam. A clear message of androgynous dressing is at play

with menswear tailoring as well as men’s sleepwear details in sportswear. The result? Five dominant themes in the women’s market for AW15.

Sleep Walker A walk of shame it most certainly is not. While printed, satin pyjamas as daywear may seem a little haphazard, one has to realise that the downright luxury embedded in each piece, paired with mink or leather bags and sharp overcoats.

Seamless 60s The elegant shift dressed, hitting about mid-thigh, sent down the runway for the season evoke a serene, seamless 60s appeal. It’s a respectfully refined and elegant aesthetic with high necks and mostly long sleeves.

Androgynous Slicked-back hair matches pantsuits, roomy shrug-on overcoats and feminine footwear yet androgynous tones in this season’s dressing. The palette is cast in neutrals with an influx of blue but in no way shies away from prints.

A League of Their Own First it was Madonna and Rosie O’Donnell who were among the women to portray women in A League of Their Own, and now, for AW15, it’s a casting call. Gone are the baseball bats and gloves – the caps we’ll keep, thanks – and, in their place, solid platform heels and long-silhouetted proportions.

Fifties Glam Full skirts, gloves and a cinched waist make for the ultimate feminine sensibilities for the season. Swing jackets and red lips signify style that’s more akin to that of Grace Kelly at times but Audrey Hepburn at others, all giving ode to the Dior new

trends

look of the time.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

F10

Trends: Women’s Must-Have Items for AW15

An eclectic and exciting season for ladieswear awaits for AW15. Daring, decorative and occasionally decadent, there’s a wealth of covetable fashion in store. But what

are the key pieces? We’ve distilled the most essential and influential trends and narrowed the must-have items to the following fabulous five

Sweatshirts Fabulous rather than fusty, the sweatshirt becomes a major must-have this season in both knits and wovens thanks to an athletic push from Pro Sport and Motosport themes. A wide variety of design updates are on hand, ranging from commercial colour blocking, screens or contrast sleeves to more technical advancements like quilting or neoprene materials. The moto end of the trend is keen on leather applications and embroidered emblems.

Biker Jackets Although biker jackets have a lasting relevance in ladies’ fashion, tough themes like Punk and Motosport bring new updates to the item, from classic to elongated and moto jacket styles. For AW15, we see the biker take on other popular trends in outerwear, such as elongated or cropped shapes, and even new coat hybrid styles. Mixed media constructions encourage the use of non-leather materials like fur, while contrast trim is also popular. Additional zippers are also common.

Cropped Pants

t trends

Cropped silhouettes move forward as a favourite in the pants classification, taking on a wide array of shapes from slim to wide leg, menswear inspired and crease-front styles. A significant portion of design applications - mainly in slim shapes - relate to retro themes, including 50s Flash, Film Noir and 60s Swing. Cropped pants in wider shapes speak to Russian Revolution while menswear fits factor in for Tomboy. Slim and ultra-slim fits often feature crease front details or jacquard materials, while wide leg shapes may be accompanied by men’s pleat front details or cuffed hems.

Mini Skirts The mini skirt has lasting relevance in the young contemporary market, which is evident in a wide range of themes. School Girl triumphs the mini skirt suit, while tougher looks like the studded wrap skirt in Grunge and utility mini in Motosport are also found. 80s Revival also features noteworthy details from slit minis to draped styles. Although knit-pleated styles speak to girlish influence, most design updates achieve a tough aesthetic with leather, embellished, biker inspired or quilted updates. Slits are optional, while wrap styling is a favourite from Isabel Marant, which is likely to translate at retail.

Oversized Coats The oversized coat takes over where last season’s mod coat left off, set primarily to the retro 50s Flash theme. Blanket coat styles also extend into the Bohemia trend. The new voluminous cocoon styles draw attention to silhouette and detail. Sloped shoulders, wide sleeves and double-breasted styling is noted. Select details like large collars or lapels are an easy add-on, while low-slung self belts are also found. Additional highlights include contrast trim and fur collars.

F11

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

interview

Cutting A Fine Figure William McCotter

“THERE WILL ALWAYS BE A DEMAND FOR NON-IRON SHIRTS - IT’S WHAT ETERNA HAS BUILT ITS REPUTATION ON. IT’S HARDER TO SELL A BUSINESS SHIRT THAT IS NOT NON-IRON”

“There’s no comparison!” McCotter admits. “Back then, there were more shops to supply, the product was mostly English and the demands of the brands were much more modest. It’s much more competitive and professional now, and most of the brands we represent are German.” Agents are often the unsung heroes of the fashion industry: the hard-working gobetweeners who ensure that stores are fully stocked with all the latest collections and brands. Futura spoke to William McCotter, the owner of the Northern Ireland-based McCotter Agencies that looks after such prolific clients as Eterna, and he revealed that style hasn’t changed all that much since he first entered the fray back in the swinging Sixties. As the owner of the successful McCotter Agency LTD, a company that represents global brands such as Eterna, Brax and Eduard Dressler, William McCotter is a well-known and wellrespected figure within the Irish fashion scene. The Northern Irish native took his first steps into the industry in 1968 when the once-iconic department store Robinson and Cleaver, a premise known for its sweeping staircase and commanding façade, took him under its wing. Surrounded by such high-end style, Robinson and Cleaver provided a wonderful training ground for the emerging entrepreneur and in 1979, McCotter ventured out on his own, becoming a sales representative. Having since established himself as one of the main players in the industry, it is surprising to hear that McCotter entered it, almost by accident. “Jobs were few and far between during that time in Northern Ireland so I kind of fell into the trade,” he recalls. Regardless of how it started, some 40 years later, McCotter is the proud owner of a thriving business, which he now runs with his son, Neal. “Working with Neal is a good combination. We both have skills that are needed by the brands we represent and we can separate areas of the business to suit us.”

One of best-known brands that McCotter is currently associated with is Eterna, the celebrated Austrian shirt-manufacturer that has been clothing men’s torsos since its foundation in Vienna in 1863. With such experienced insight, what makes the perfect shirt, according to McCotter? “Quality, fit and style. Price is an issue with every purchase,” he reveals. “There will always be a demand for non-iron shirts - it’s what Eterna has built its reputation on. It’s harder to sell a business shirt that is not non-iron.” While fashion is renowned for its evolving trends, it seems that the more things change, the more they remain the same. “With regards to men’s shirts changing over the years in terms of style, fit and colour, it has all come full circle! Current trends are for slim fit and fine trim details. Just like the sixties,” McCotter observes. But while fashion continuously harks back to the past for inspiration, one thing that has most certainly changed is customers’ spending patterns. “NOS has become almost 50% of our business. Re-ordering in small amounts and regularly has replaced large pre-orders,” McCotter explains. “I have seen several recessions and lived through the Troubles but the last few years have been the most challenging. To survive, there is no other answer than hard work.” Another important change to the fashion landscape is the emergence of online shopping. With Irish sales expected to grow to €21 billion

And while it might not have been an industry that he was initially drawn to, McCotter has always enjoyed the diversity of his week, with no two working days the same. If he isn’t in the middle of sales appointments, he is making calls to brands or customers, or simply busy managing the agency. As a result, over the years, the much-admired businessman has witnessed first-hand the numerous changes that have occurred within the world of fashion.

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by 2017, it is a new aspect of the industry that is impossible to ignore. “Online shopping has established itself as a major sales channel and is an area that we will look to supply, along with bricks and mortar retail,” McCotter mentions. And when the affable agent isn’t busy representing an army of international brands, there’s nothing he likes better than wiling away the hours with his family, as well as pursuing his love for sport. “When I’m not working, I spend time with my wife and grandchildren, and I’m also the chairman of Belfast Star Basketball Club,” McCotter mentions. Having being part of the fabric of fashion for almost five decades, other than hard work, McCotter’s words of wisdom for young, budding entrepreneurs is to expand their horizons. “Move to a big market and think bigger than Ireland,” he advises. And so to the future, are there any new exciting accounts in the offing, for example? “There are no new agencies planned for now. The future for us is to continue our expansion into the UK market with our current portfolio of brands, and to drive growth through that avenue. We have also expanded into ladieswear with Eterna and Brax, which is beginning to bring returns.” And is there the possibility of changing horses, career-wise, seeing as it was the industry that chose him, rather than McCotter choosing it in the first place? On account of the fact that he boasts such a passion for basketball, could he be the next Magic Johnson, say? “It’s too late to do anything else. I’ll stay in fashion until I retire!” he concedes with a smile. His many clients can breathe a sigh of relief, so.

SHOWTALK

BUYERS AND BRANDS IMPRESSED BY NEW LOOK MODA

The 26th edition of Moda, which took place from 10-12 August, witnessed a breakthrough in positivity among retailers and brands alike, many of whom celebrated their best season on record and welcomed the show’s new look and layout. In addition to being greeted by almost 1,500 collections from across the accessories, footwear, lingerie and swimwear, men’s and womenswear sectors, visitors to the show enjoyed a newly redesigned, bright and airy show space, with stands, product zones, entrances and feature areas receiving new design treatments that were designed to reflect retail environments. Exhibitors included a host of returning brands, as well as various newcomers, such as Daisy Roots, Primigi and Lelli Kelly, all of whom made their debut at the show All sectors enjoyed positive feedback from retailers, with both new and long-standing visitors to the show praising both the brands and this season’s seminar programme, which was extended with the inclusion of the E-Zone Live. Nick Cook, portfolio director at ITE Moda, summarised the season’s show, saying: “This summer’s show has been another crucial and positive step in the right direction for the industry.” The next edition of Moda takes place in Birmingham’s NEC from 15-17 February, 2015. Further details online at moda-uk.co.uk

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BUYERS BOAST BUOYANT ATTITUDE AT PURE LONDON The latest edition of the ever-popular Pure London show ended on a high note as exhibitors and visitors alike reflected on a successful SS15 edition at London Olympia, which took place from 3-5 August, 2014.

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The vibrant atmosphere among the brands was met with an equally buoyant attitude from buyers as they invested in SS15 collections across fashion, footwear and accessories, as well as an abundance of AW14 pieces for short-order. The positive vibes towards the show were reflected in buyers’ physical investment to AW14 and SS15, with many brands placing a record number of orders at the show this season. The next edition of Pure London will take place from 8-10 February, 2015 at London Olympia. Further details online at purelondon.com

CASAMODA Heinrich Katt GmbH & Co. KG · Gutenbergstraße 7 · 26135 Oldenburg Telephone +49(0)441/2066-0 · info@casamoda.com · www.casamoda.com John Lawlor | E: john@threadweave.com | T: 00353 / 862591088 Christian Lawlor | E: office@threadweave.com | T:00353 / 868135983

shopcall

La Dolce Vita

Monaghan’s Dea Boutique, a relatively new independent retailer that specialises in exclusive Italian designs, has bucked the trend and overcome recession-related difficulties to become a thriving success story for its owners, husband and wife team Stefano and Breffni Delea. Futura discussed their humble beginnings with Ms Delea and discovered that Irish customers have a particularly keen eye for unique and stylish garments

It is in New York, the city that never sleeps, where Dea Boutique began its in journey into becoming one of Ulster’s most exciting independent retailers. Originally from Monaghan, Breffni Delea left her hometown to attend university and from there, she indulged her wanderlust inclinations and began travelling, finally settling in Manhattan where she would spend 10 years gaining formidable experience in the fashion industry, serving as creative director for an Italian company. Not only would the city provide the young, upcoming entrepreneur with the necessary knowledge in order to succeed in the business, but it would also provide the setting of where she would first meet her future husband, Stefano, an Italian who, at the time, lay claim to his own menswear line, selling to some of the most prolific high-end boutiques and department stores in the States including Nordstrom’s and Macy’s.

It was marriage made in heaven – literally and figuratively. In March 2006, the pair returned to the stony grey soils of Monaghan and, using the experience both had acquired in America, and drawing upon their mutual love for Italian fashion, they decided to open their own store, Dea Boutique. Their aim was to offer something different to the Irish customer; to provide them with a look that was chic and new, bringing clothing lines to the Emerald Isle that were never seen here before. Their vision was ambitious yet realistic; they intended it to be a small and manageable labour of love. Little did they realise that within six months, they would be bringing in two more full-time staff and would be extending the boutique to double its original size. By the end of 2007, the sartorial stalwarts had expanded once again, this time offering appreciative customers a complete shoe and accessory department, which complemented the stylish clothing they were already carrying.

All in all, they had now developed into a 2,500 sq ft store - providing the women of Ireland with a full range of every day essentials and evening wear, as well as everything in between. “We have spent years creating a store which is exclusive in Ireland,” Ms Delea reveals. “We have used our experience to offer something different to the Irish customer and are fortunate in that we can visit these genuine artisans and buy their clothing directly.” And by artisans, Ms Delea is referring to the numerous Italian designers Dea Boutique collaborates with on an on-going basis. “We attribute our success to our special relationship with the Italian manufacturers. We seek out quality fashion brands and are constantly sourcing new lines and updating our fashion ranges,” she explains. “Our collections can change every two weeks as we don’t bulk buy and we don’t repeat items that are sold out. Independent boutiques are dwindling and our strength, as we see it, is our exclusivity and individuality, which is a very niche market.” And it seems that it is the world-famous Italian cut that particularly appeals to Irish shoppers. “The Irish customer is very fashion savvy and I find that they know what looks good on them and have a huge appreciation for a well-cut garment,” Ms Delea says. “Italy is renowned for the quality and cut of their clothing, as well as a beautiful aesthetic. The Irish customer recognises this and has a true appreciation for great workmanship. If they aren’t familiar with the designer’s name, they are not put off. In fact, they love to find new labels that none of their friends has. I have clients from Cork, Donegal, Mullingar and Dublin who tell me that Dea Boutique is their secret find and their friends beg them to reveal where they are buying their clothes.” But on account of the economic downturn, the rise of Dea Boutique hasn’t been without its fair share of obstacles. Fortunately, limited financial resources on the part of the customers will not necessarily mean the death knell for a retailer; almost as a tip of the hat to the cyclical nature of fashion, spending patterns simply evolve. “We have overcome some harsh times since the recession but we acted quickly,” Ms Delea

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“Their aim was to offer something different to the Irish Customer; to provide them with a look that was chic and new, bringing clothing lines to the Emerald Isle that were never seen here before”

mentions. “Prior to the recession, we were selling Bruno Magli, Valentino and other high-end luxury brands. Then, we introduced more mid-level upand-coming designers and they took off. It was imperative that we give the same designer look and individuality to our customer but at a price point that our customer wanted. “More women are updating their everyday wardrobe and moving away from dresses. Clients

For the upcoming season, Dea Boutique will be celebrating diversity with plenty of bold new silhouettes, modern high-quality fabrics, bright colourful styles and bold and geometric prints. Outerwear is especially important for the store and, as a result, it will continue to offer a huge array of coats for all budgets, such as cashmere and merino wool. Astrakhan is one of their mainstays, offering a rich and elegant look.

beautifully cut pair of pants teamed with a luxury

“The Italian design element for coats this season is amazing. Designers like Etro, Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi have all introduced pastel colours for their A/W Collections,” Ms Delea reports.

knit is now an everyday staple of our customer.”

“I am loving this surprise element as pastels are

prior to the recession would spend €1,000 on a Valentino dress but now we are finding that they are buying pieces, which they can wear from season to season, mixing and matching. A

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traditionally only used for S/S collections. We are now seeing jacquard pastel coats and separates, which offer our customers a new twist for their winter wardrobe.” And so to the future. Ms Delea is hopeful that the economy will continue to improve and has already noticed that optimism is slowly returning. “Our next goal is to introduce our private label collection to our customers, which we are currently working on. I look forward to seeing what the future holds for Dea Boutique.” Like many of the items that Dea Boutique stocks, the future is sure to be bright.

Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

collections

Jockey With the Winter Resort collection theme, Jockey has utilised an attractive palette, adding the classic A-Red to the range of colours for an especially Christmassy touch. Rustic Norwegian patterns enhance the character of this theme, most notably in the underwear line. Norwegian-style short trunks and boxer shorts are amongst the highlights of the new Christmas edition. To make them easier to wrap, Jockey is supplying these underwear styles in an elegant metal box with the International Collection globe.

CASAMODA AND VENTI NOS COLLECTIONS Casamoda and Venti both offer a wide range of NOS articles. Casamoda offers two fits - regular fit up to size 56 and modern fit up to size 48. In addition, a large choice of ties and knitwear, as well as a selection of casual shirts can be found in the Casamoda NOS program.

TOMMY HILFIGER Tommy Hilfiger has partnered with Abraham Moon – one of England’s most prominent textile mills, which was founded in 1837 – to develop a series of striking signature tartans for the coming season. These traditional plaids are fused with the collection’s tech-inspired aesthetic, mixing the great American outdoors with quintessential English charm. The signature British Moon check plays against bold pop colours, while traditional wool fabrics are modernised when paired with functional nylon and luxe leather accents. The collection will be available in Tommy Hilfiger stores across Europe, North America, Latin America, Asia Pacific and online at tommy.com, as of 29 September, 2014. Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014

The Venti articles are slightly fitted (up to 46) and the Body Stretch range up to 44. The Casamoda and Venti showroom (Treadwave Ltd.) in Dublin, which is located at the Unit 18, The Exchange Calmount Business Park, Ballymount, shows the full range of NOS articles. For further information, please contact John and Christian Lawlor at john@treadwave. com

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Venti

Casamoda

collections

OLYMP NOS Shirt specialist Olymp boasts an unrivalled Never-Out-of-Stock (NOS) programme, which is available to retailers and boasts over 600,000 shirts ready for dispatch from its central warehouse in Bietigheim-Bissingen, Germany, enabling immediate further consignment of the current collection. The NOS merchandise ranges from several shirt lines, numerous fabrics, variations in style and collar shapes, assorted arm lengths, 17 sizes and special sizes (from collar size 36 to 54 cm or XS to 6XL respectively), as well as knitwear, ties and T-shirts. Overall this results in more than 3,000 different varieties in the currently valid stock programme for AW14, where not only typical basics but also stylish coloured shirts are included. Highlights in the NOS collections include the Luxor range, which incorporates noniron, wrinkle-free business shirts made from 100% pure cotton; Level Five â&#x20AC;&#x201C; body fit, a young, slim-fitting shirt range made from comfort stretch; and a high-quality knitwear collection, which includes jumpers, slipovers, cardigans and waistcoats.

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Contact: John Hayes, Southern Ireland, Tel: +087 2100 373, Email: john.hayes@jockey.com F19 Email: Patrick@coyleagencies.com Futura, Menswear in Ireland | September/October 2014 Patrick Coyle, Northern Ireland, Tel: +44 7860 274485, www.jockey.com

Next issue

Award winning jewellery for over 20 Years

In our next issue of Futura Magazine we will focus on JEWELLERY and FASHION ACCESSORIES and TRADE SHOWS for early 2015.

Closing Date November 7th 2015.

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o t n I t I n r Tu

Stock Service Tel: 042-937 9148 M: 087-243 4059 E: Dorothy@coronasilver.ie www.coronasilver.ie

Boutique and Fashion Outlets Wholesalers and Distributors Call: Wally Connolly Mobile: 086 - 2414560

Underwear Sleepwear Loungewear Sportswear from stock to 6XL all year around

Contact: John Hayes Mobile: +087 2100373 john.hayes@jockey.com www.jockey.com

Thought for the Month “Successful people keep moving. They make mistakes, but they don’t quit.”

• Complete School Uniform Range • Stock available throughout the year • Peronsalised Service for every customer • Embroidery & Printing Service • Corporate and promotional clothing suitable for every event Derek Eakin Ltd Tel: +353 (0)49 555 2286 email: schoolwear@derekeakin.com web: www.derekeakin.com

1984 - 2014

THE IRISH SCHOOLWEAR BRAND. School Knitwear, Shirts, Blouses, Jackets, Softshells, Embroidery, MENS KNITWEAR. Year round full stock service. AGENTS: SAMMY FARRAR 01 671 5199 EAST/SOUTH ALBERT SHERLOCK 087 202 7518 WEST/NW JEFF FARRAR 01 671 5199 N EAST Deer Park Knitwear, Monasterevin, Co Kildare. T:(045) 525584 E: info@deerpark.ie W: www.deerpark.ie