Professional Beauty SA, March 2021 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

MASCARA + PRIMER Blackest black pigment Rich-creamy, no-clump application Buildable volume Improves look of lower lashes Non-flaking, soft, cushiony fiber Directs and defines lashes Incredible staying power

PROVEN SERUM Infused with RapidLash enhancing serum Long-term enhancing benefits Lash loving ingredients All-day conditioning Helps curl lashes Promotes healthy, longer-looking lashes

In this issue... March 2021 | probeauty.co.za

ANTI-AGEING MALE MARKET DATA AND YOUR BUSINESS

More volume. Coming Soon More stability. The new Brow Lamination Kit by RefectoCil breathes life into your eyebrows in only 10 minutes! Each kit includes: 2x Lash & Brow Perm 2x Neutraliser 2x Cosmetic Brushes 2x Application Dishes 1x Eye Care Pads

Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za

In this issue... Regulars

36 29

Spa Focus

34 The power of sound in your spa space

10 Industry news Local and international news

Making memories through

42 Crowning glory

audio

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

Features

41 In the market

32 The role that data plays in your business

All the latest launches

Making the most of your salon software

Business 16 Ask the Experts

36 In pursuit of an eternally youthful complexion

All your questions answered

20 Lifestyle - an important factor of health

Latest anti-ageing ingredients

Dr Yashica Khalawan gives the lowdown

23 Innovate, innovate, innovate Global wellness trends

Aesthetic Medicine 40 Fat grafting in the aesthetic industry Alternative facial rejuvenation

unpacked

24 Marketing your business to a male audience How to expand your client base

Nails 45 NailFile Issue 39

29 Men Only Male grooming products

Interview 26 Talking to.... Jared Hines Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge

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Beauté Pacifique presents Microscope on Microneedling

Promotional Feature

The Africa division of Danish medical grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, embarked on an 8-month long trial focused on the clinical interrogation of controlled damage scenarios to the skin’s upper tissues, using a pen containing tiny needles to puncture the skin and induce a healing response.

n this case study, Beauté Pacifique focuses on hyperpigmentation on Caucasian skin and measures the effects of microneedling treatments performed in conjunction with the application of prescribed Beauté Pacifique products. Results were recorded via Beauté Pacifique’s DermaScan Medical Ultrasound device, which can measure the skin’s structures reaching its deepest layers. This high resolution ultrasound imagery was supported by photographic evidence compiled to compare the results over the trial period, under the watchful eye of Dr Nadia Dannhauser of For Beautiful Life Medical Aesthetics in Johannesburg, Tasneem Valley (Medical Aesthetician) and Beauté Pacifique Africa’s Julia Wills (International Master Trainer)

CLIENT SKIN ANALYSIS

Skin Type: Minor Combination Skin Condition: Superficial Dehydration Skin Imperfections: Pre-mature age lines on the forehead. Hyperpigmentation is seen scattered on the face in the form of ephilides, macules and chloasma.

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for All Skins. 5ml

HOW THE CLIENT FELT DURING THE TREATMENT The client was very relaxed and did not feel any pain or discomfort.

The forehead shows the most hyperpigmentation. Enlarged pores on the nose. Some closed and open comedones on nose and chin. Healing pustules on side of chin and cheek. Raised Naevi on side of neck below jawline. Smooth and fine to the touch. Medium thickness. Normal sensitivity. Fitzpatrick Scale: Type 2 Medium

TREATMENT 1: 25 July 2020 Cleanse: Foaming Cleanser 1ml Tone: Enriched Toner All Skins 2.5ml Exfoliate: Gentle facial exfoliator 15ml for 10 minutes. No steamer used. Needle Depth: 0.25 Glide Medium: Tyrostase Mask: Skin Hydrating Mask Tone: Enriched Toner Dry Skin. 2.5ml Moisturise: Moisturising Day Crème

HOW THE CLIENT FELT AFTER THE TREATMENT The client was happy and noted that she still had no sensation. Her face was flushed.

HOME CARE AND ONGOING TREATMENT PLAN

One treatment a month for the next 5 months to treat and lighten pigmentation. Home care advice is to use Moisturising Day Crème for Dry Skins in the mornings and Submersive Serum Paradoxe in the evenings. Use STAY Beautiful every morning and Tyrostase at night for the duration of this trial.

TREATMENT 2: 4 September 2020 Same Treatment protocol except for an increased needle depth Needle Depth: 0.75 on forehead. 1.0

5 Promotional Feature

Super3Booster and move to Clinical Super3booster to enhance the dosage of Vitamin A to thicken and strengthen the skin.

TREATMENTS 3 – 5

on cheeks. 0.25 around the eyes. 0.75 on nose. 1.0 on chin and upper lip.

HOW THE CLIENT FELT DURING THE TREATMENT

The client was relaxed and talking a lot. She said she felt as if someone was rubbing a ‘toothbrush’ over her skin and found it relaxing.

HOW THE CLIENT FELT AFTER THE TREATMENT

The client was comfortable and happy with the progress. Her skin was mostly red on the forehead and slightly red in patches on the other areas.

HOME CARE

Use Xtra-Dry Skin Fix morning and

(between 2 October and 1 December 2020) Same Treatment protocol as Treatment 2

HOME CARE

Client to use STAY Beautiful in the morning and mix with Submersive Serum Paradoxe. Evenings to use Submersive Serum Paradoxe on its own for the next 3-4 days until the skin has healed. Client to then continue with Crème Metamorphique at night and continue use of Tyrostase.

TREATMENT 6: 12 January 2021 Needle Depth: 0.5 on forehead. 0.75 on cheeks. 0.25 around the eyes. 0.5 on nose. 0.75 on chin and upper lip.

HOME CARE

Client to continue at home with Submersive serum Paradoxe for 3-4 days before using Super3 Vitamin A booster at night again. STAY Beautiful SPF30 daily.

OVERALL CONCLUSION

evening for the next 7 days, after which Crème Metamorphique in evenings and Paradoxe Day over Defy Damage Skin Repair Serum. STAY Beautiful SPF30 and Tyrostase to continue throughout the trial.

RETAIL ADVICE

The client is genuinely concerned about the premature age lines that are starting to deepen on the forehead. She will start with

Resultant Skin Condition: Moisture content has been dramatically improved in the skin, resulting in a healthy, hydrated glow. Skin Imperfections: Pre-mature age lines on the forehead have been relaxed. Hyperpigmentation has been fragmented on the surface and lightened, particularly under the eye area. The skin is far brighter and pore size on the nose and upper cheeks has been decreased revealing a very noticeable overall tone and texture improvement. Sebaceous imperfections are under control and no longer visible. Skin purer and smoother to the touch.

epidermis protecting the underlying cellular fibrestructure and limiting TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Skin repaired and appeared robust, presenting a lasting healthy and hydrated glow. Evidence of rejuvenation continuing throughout the full epidermal layer. 2. Observe Rejuvenation of

COLLAGEN and ELASTIN Fibrestructure Treatment Result: effective cosmeceutical penetration and dermal structure density improvement indicated by DermaScan 4 echo colour change from black to ‘awakened’ green and healthy yellow and white echo, closer to the shallower epidermal layer. The patient confirmed that this has resulted in tighter skin. 3. Anti-Aging Active Ingredient Delivery into the deepest layers of the skin Treatment Result: Dramatic, deep density improvement post treatment evident.

CLIENT FEEDBACK

“I have felt, and others have commented on, the beautiful change in texture of my skin. The wrinkles on my forehead have always been a great concern to me. They are definitely softer and my eyes are far brighter. I am so happy with the results and can see the benefit of microneedling on pigmentation.” For more information contact Beauté Pacifique International Master Trainer, Julia Wills, on julia@ blueskyinternational.co.za

Medical DermaScan Ultrasound 1. Observe Rejuvenation of the

EPIDERMIS

Treatment Result: thicker, smoother

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Welcome

he 5th of March 2021 marked one year exactly since the first COVID-19 case was confirmed in South Africa. Ever since then we have all been desperately clinging to the hope that one day, this horrendous nightmare might be over. Our lead story reflects the detrimental effects that the second wave of COVID, which hit us in December, has had on skincare suppliers. Most report that their stockists (as in salons and spas) are struggling and that the second wave has been pretty much like the first wave. However, in amongst these reports are a few positive ones, reporting actual growth in sales, which is amazing and commendable. Hopefully now that the country’s vaccination roll-out is progress, albeit slowly, we may one day rid ourselves of the COVID scourge and return to business as normal as it can be following a pandemic. The rise in the number of salons dedicated to male grooming was steadily growing prior to COVID, indicating that this formerly niche market is a serious force to be reckoned with. It is also an opportunity for traditional beauty salons to start focusing more on attracting male clients through their doors. In this issue we include a very useful article on how to target this market. Anti-ageing is probably the most sought after sector in skincare for the simple reason that nobody wants to look old. In this issue we focus on the latest anti-ageing ingredients positioned to help us in our perennial battle against wrinkles and collagen loss.

Joanna Sterkowicz: Editor

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

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PROVEN SERUM Infused with RapidLash enhancing serum Long-term enhancing benefits Lash loving ingredients All-day conditioning

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Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970

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Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

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Helps curl lashes Promotes healthy, longer-looking lashes

In this issue... Feb 2021 | probeauty.co.za

Publisher Mark Moloney

Managing your salon during a crisis Vitamin-based skincare Body contouring devices

Cover source: Photo by iCapture Studios from Pexels Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

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Suppliers feel effects of the COVID economy Several South African skincare suppliers report that the second wave of COVID-19, which hit in December, has had a serious effect on demand from salons and spas. According to RégimA distributors, regular clients are now choosing either salon treatments or product purchases, but not both. Because clients are extremely nervous to enter salon spaces (in shopping malls particularly), despite all COVID protocols being in place, the demand for in-salon treatments has dropped. Says one distributor: “Clients are now buying only the basics of skincare. There is a continuous flow of new business, but these new salons have replaced the salons that have closed. Smaller home salons are busier as clients are more confident going into a private space for their treatments.” Another distributor notes that some salons are struggling, with their businesses now halved. “Home salons are recovering slowly but larger clinics in malls have to deal with high rent.” During the second wave, RégimA observed a sharp increase in customer queries related to things that would normally be resolved in discussions with their therapist. “So the separation of customer and therapist has had a markedly deleterious effect on levels of knowledge and awareness of customers in general.” After the first wave of COVID, Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) saw a steady increase in sales, but when the second wave hit, although salons were still operational, there was no increase in sales. Says EBS’ Dalize Havenga: “Sales just flat-lined. Salons said they had lost customers to immigration and financial restraints. EBS is

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launching a new Anesi product in these trying times, and the response to the online launch has been very positive. We are all trying to stay as positive as possible and keeping our businesses afloat as best we can, hoping for an increase in sales and new salons following the announcement of Level 1 restrictions.”

The basics Julia Leeson, trade marketing manager of Environ Distribution SA, reveals that the retail side of the business, although slow, has started to see a turnaround. She continues: “We have noticed that the main volume movers are the essential skincare products, so salons are selling more of the basics than specialised skincare and the customer is cutting back on non-essential products. “It’s the professional side of our business that has been the hardest hit. With the drop in salon treatments, the need to replenish professional products has reduced. The last few months in the second wave have been no different to when we first entered this unchartered territory.”

Tough January Marisa Dimitriadis of SIX Skincare and Spalicious reports that December 2020 was, surprisingly, excellent. “We had a 20% growth on December 2019 and even opened new accounts, which is not the norm for year end. However, in January the wheels fell off completely. It was as if the industry disappeared. We did 50% of 2020 January revenue. Our hotel spas did not order one single item. “Fortunately, February revived again and we reverted to normal numbers. The biggest complaints

from salons and spas have been last minute cancellations and no shows.”

Fortunate position L.S. Enterprises reports that neither its brands (including TheraVine) nor business have been severely affected by COVID-19 lockdowns. Says national operations manager, Hilde-Mari Kohrs: “We are fortunate that the effects of the lockdowns were spread due to our export demographics. Since the lockdowns, we experienced an increase in the number of stockists signing up and also concluded two distribution agreements in to new countries.” Wayne La Grange of Blue Sky International, the distributor for Beauté Pacifique, believes that consumers demand evidence of efficacy now more than ever due to the pandemic. “They want evidence that their money on skincare is well spent and almost demand guarantees that the product they purchase will produce the desired results. COVID has taught consumers to hustle and now the game has changed.”

Environ wins international Decade Award

South African-born professional brand, Environ Skin Care, has been recognised as the Top Medical Skincare Line of the Decade at the Aesthetic Everything® Aesthetic and Cosmetic Medicine Awards in the USA. In 2018, 2019 and 2020 Environ won the Top Medical Skincare Line category at the same awards. This year, in addition to the Decade Award, Environ also notched up the Top Training and Educational Programs Awards. The Aesthetic Everything ® Aesthetic and Cosmetic Medicine Awards is an annual, global competition established in the USA that recognises excellence across a range of categories. More than

Photo by Samantha Borges on Unsplash

The Professional Beauty Online Conference and Expo will take place on Sunday, 23 May and Monday, 24 May, on a fully interactive digital platform. Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods, “Due to market conditions resulting from the economic fallout of the COVID-19 pandemic, and over which Professional Beauty has absolutely no control, we have decided to replace our previously announced series of monthly themed virtual events with a single, all-inclusive event on 23 and 24 May. This will cover the whole gamut of the industry – namely beauty, nails, make-up, lashes & brows, spa, aesthetic medicine and hair. There will be informative conferences dedicated to each sector, as well as an exciting virtual expo featuring a host of

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Professional Beauty’s industry-wide virtual event

top professional brands showcasing their latest products and services.” Woods points out that the event is free to delegates wanting to attend and offers an unparalleled online platform for connecting with the industry via a network lounge and interacting directly with brands. There will also be ‘speed

dating’ style business sessions in which registered delegates can participate. The event will offer exhibitors the opportunity to showcase their latest wares and connect directly with the owners and managers of salons, spas and medical aesthetic clinics, as well as with therapists.

40,000 votes were cast to reward and recognise the people and companies that the industry, their patients and clients love most. In 2021, Aesthetic Everything® created ‘The Decade Awards’ to celebrate and recognise standout performers within the industry who have received the most awards over the past 10 years. “Environ has focused on the cosmetic aspects of medical skin science from the very beginning and we are honoured to be recognised for achieving major steps towards our goal of achieving a glowing, beautiful skin for a lifetime,” explain Environ’s Scientific and R&D directors. Val Carstens, Environ group chairman, adds: “Thank you Aesthetics Everything® in honouring Environ with this prestigious recognition and awards. I would like to express my gratitude to my employees, the distributors, skincare

professionals and Environ clients for their continued loyalty and dedication to the brand. As a team you made this award possible.” Environ’s exclusive distributor in the USA is DermaConcepts, a research and results-oriented skin care company owned and managed by Rob and Carol Trow, who were also recognised at the awards.

Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

The National Minimum Wage (NMW) in South Africa increased to R21.69 per hour from 1 March 2021. This development is in line with the NMW legislation that came into effect on 1 January 2019, at a level of R20 per hour. In terms of the NMW Act of 2018, the policy framework is a floor level below which no employee should be paid. According to the Act, it is illegal and an unfair labour practice for an employer to unilaterally alter hours of work or other conditions of employment in implementing the NMW. The NMW is the amount payable for the ordinary hours of work and does not include payment of allowances (such as transport, tools, food or accommodation), payments in kind (board or lodging), tips, bonuses and gifts. Workers who have concluded learnership agreements are entitled to allowances, as determined by the National Qualifications Framework Level. (Source: SAnews.gov.za)

New president for SAAHSP

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Esse partners with Cleanhub to go plastic neutral

South African certified organic skincare brand, Esse, is partnering with Cleanhub to collect plastic waste in developing countries before it can reach the ocean. Says the Esse team: “Every living thing depends on the ocean, yet, millions of tons of plastic end up in our ocean every year and with deeply damaging results to marine ecosystems. Today, 91% of global plastic does not get recycled. Single-use plastics such as plastic bags, candy wrappers, water bottles and food containers end up in water courses destined for the ocean. “Esse is carbon neutral already and has now stepped up to help protect the ocean by going plastic neutral. We calculate our plastic usage to ensure that an equivalent amount is collected and recycled. This also empowers local communities in developing countries to set up collection businesses.” Cleanhub is a software company dedicated to track the impact of plastic waste management projects and has a growing network of collection partners in India and Indonesia.

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Qualified aesthetic therapist, Ansa Bronkhorst, has been appointed president of SAAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry. Bronkhorst, who has a great love for education and is committed to the upliftment of the industry, has been serving on the SAAHSP board for the past 18 months as a director. Says Bronkhorst: “It is with sincere honour and pride that I stand before you to serve as the SAAHSP president for the term 2021-2023. I wish for you to join hands with me as we strive to make SAAHSP the sturdiest advocate for industry regulations and support of our professions.”

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Government increases National Minimum Wage

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Business Tips

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Business Tips

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Business Trends Business Tips

ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What exactly are hyperrealism brows?

irst it was microblading and now its hyperrealism brows. In a world that is ever changing and always evolving, it is important to stay up to date with the latest technological advances, even if it seems like you’ve only just mastered the last one. Enter hyperrealism brows. One of the most advanced techniques out there, it’s known for its hyper detailed, lifelike hairstrokes and ultra-sleek look. It’s hard to imagine that only a few years ago the best bet for creating eyebrows was getting as much pigment into a solid block and hoping it would stick. We have come a long way in permanent make-up so let us look at what the hyperrealism brow technique really is and how you, as an artist, can achieve it. With the world’s most delicate techniques primarily originating

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in places like Eastern Europe and Russia, it’s no surprise that hyperrealism took off there and has since branched out into several different countries. To date there are only a few artists worldwide boasting the skills to master it, since it is renowned for its difficulty and intricacy in performing it. How does this technique differ to microblading, which uses a handheld tool to make small, cut-like incisions into the skin, oftentimes causing more trauma to the skin and thereby making the technique less sustainable long term? Well, the hyperrealism technique is performed using a device which, unlike microblading, implants the pigment into the papillary dermis with a single needle that is extremely fine in diameter size (0.20mm to be exact), similar to

that of an acupuncture needle. The artist uses the device to create a pattern that weaves and connects the hairs to mimic the growth of a natural eyebrow. This technique relies on the intricacy of connecting hairs in a lifelike manner. To understand why this technique is so unique in style, we must look at the various hairstroke patterns used in creating the distinct hyperrealistic eyebrow hair patterns that can range between natural to a more dramatic ‘W’ design. How it differs is by overlapping and intertwining the eyebrow hairs to create hairstrokes that give different illusions of depth through intensifying certain hairstrokes from dark to light, thereby resulting in a threedimensional contrast. With the microblading technique it is simply not possible to achieve this kind

of depth since a single hairstroke cannot be intensified through cutting, making the hyperrealism implantation technique far more sustainable considering that keeping the integrity of the skin is paramount. Because the pigment can be implanted, it is possible to do several passes with different pigment colours to achieve the most realistic results possible.

Tips on creating hyperrealistic brows Study as many different eyebrows as possible. Understanding the direction of hair growth and where the hairs connect at their densest part will give you an idea of the dimension and depth that can be created and achieved. Start by creating guidelines, or spine lines, by which you can connect your hairstrokes. Each individual hair connects to a main hair. Think of it as branches of a tree, all connected to a main stem.

Each hairstroke must be joined by another. Use your machine at a low speed for hairstrokes, always working towards yourself. The slower you work, the darker the line. The faster you work, the lighter the line.

Nowadays our clients are more educated through doing their own research, so make sure you don’t fall behind and give your clients the best techniques available. The bulb of the brow should always be lighter, and the hairstrokes can be further apart. Shading the hairs at different parts will create the illusion of them coming together, creating depth

and dimension. Lastly, it is important to execute this technique with the utmost of skill. Do not attempt this without the correct training. It is highly specialised. When done correctly, it is one of the most delicate and soft techniques available and will give you superiority in service at your studio. Nowadays our clients are more educated through doing their own research, so make sure you don’t fall behind and give your clients the best techniques available.

Zanie Scholtz has had a successful career in the beauty industry and after working abroad for a few years, followed her passion by mastering and refining the craft of permanent make-up artistry. Her true artistry lies in creating the most realistic and detailed hair strokes through using hyperrealistic hair patterns as her main form of expression. In 2015, Scholtz opened her own studio, BrowGinering.

Don’t forget to check out our social media channels There is always a regular stream of informative posts, news, views and the occasional FUN item to lighten your day. Join us and get involved

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Business Business Trends Tips

Growth GrowthFactors FactorsProve Prove Effective Effectivefor forRegeneration Regeneration and Rejuvenation and Rejuvenation By ByAhmed Ahmed Al-Qahtani, Al-Qahtani, Ph.D. In recent years, it has been a priority of researchers and physicians to improve their understanding of the biological mechanisms of cell signaling molecules, otherwise known as growth factors, in hopes of discovering enhanced woundhealing therapies. The complexity extends beyond the delivery method of these molecules, as specific growth factor families are liable for triggering several biological signaling pathways and thus must be highly selective and regulated. Growth factors are naturally produced by the body and are critical for

the stimulation of growth in living cells. These cytokines, interleukins and small proteins, which are naturally excreted from various cells of the body, particularly fibroblasts, signal the proliferation and growth of cells. Present day, the topical application of growth factors to chronic wounds has been acknowledged as a specific therapy with major benefits. This new frontier has paved the way for many scientists and clinicians to explore the possibilities of advancing their practice and bettering their results via proper delivery of the correct concentration and combination of appropriate growth factors.

Burn wound before and after 21 days of AQ Recovery Serum treatment Photos courtesy of AQ Skin Solutions

Acne before and six weeks after microneedling Tx and daily application of AQ Recovery Serum Photos courtesy of AQ Skin Solutions

Ahmed Al-Qahtani, Ph.D. Dr. Al-Qahtani is a National Institutes of Health (NIH) scientist and is accredited with numerous scientific publications as well as his patented growth factor technology (U.S. Pat. 8,518,879). He is a long-standing member of the American Association of Immunologists and is an assistant professor with the faculty of medicine at the United Arab Emirates University (Al-Ain, United Arab Emirates).

THE Aesthetic Guide May/June 2017 www.miinews.com

While the discovery of growth factor technology was at the forefront of immunology, it proved to be an equal breakthrough for skin rejuvenation and hair restoration because of the benefits: high-speed recovery, reduced downtime and improved results. Their ability to easily penetrate bare skin and enhance the immune system response triggers secretion of other vital growth factors necessary to repair the skin. It is unsurprising that an application of serums or conditioned media containing growth factors would help accelerate the regenerative process when used as a supplement to conventional rejuvenating therapies such as lasers or microneedling. Application of topical growth factors assists in the subsequent activation and proliferation of fibroblasts, which serve to alert the senescent cells to their pseudo-wounded state, thus allowing the body’s own healing potential to be unleashed and used for rejuvenation. Surely, this would account for the significant regeneration observed in individuals treated with topical growth factors for wrinkles, discoloration, roughness and other unsightly cosmetic concerns. As the body works synergistically and systematically, so too must an approach to rejuvenation that seeks to harness the innate power of its healing pathways, be engineered with similarly synergistic principles in mind. For this reason, a patented proprietary mixture of cytokines and human growth factors has proven exceptional in delivering this desired rejuvenation (U.S. Pat. 8,518,879). AQ Skin Solutions pharmaceutical grade serums contain patented growth factor technology that can stimulate a cooling sensation, minimize the risk of scarring and signal re-epithelialization for better results and a quicker recovery period. The AQ serums also help to produce collagen in connective tissue cells, which will result in better, long lasting benefits. Growth factors are very delicate peptides that can degrade if not formulated and delivered properly. Effective delivery methods of growth factors largely depend on the formulation combined with the fragility of growth factor conformation. AQ’s clinical research on how to effectively increase the retention of growth factors for maximum penetration has proven to yield exponential results.

Lifestyle – an important factor of health Photo by Li Sun from Pexels

Wellness

Studies suggest that 60% of factors related to individual health and quality of life are correlated to lifestyle, writes Dr Yashica Khalawan

n unhealthy lifestyle can lead to illness, disability and even death. Lifestyle is developed from a multitude of factors and it can be difficult for an individual to identify if they are in fact following unhealthy habits, and to decipher how to change them. Signs that you may be unhealthy: - Bad skin, hair loss, brittle nails - Difficulty sleeping - Poor digestion - Brain fog - Increased fatigue - Anxiety

So, what can you do to change an unhealthy lifestyle?

week, or 75 minutes of vigorous intensity exercise per week.

Follow a healthy diet

Stop smoking Cardiovascular exercise increases the heart rate and improves blood circulation, which delivers oxygen and nutrients to the cells, promoting new cell production. Tobacco smoke is toxic for cells. There are various adverse effects of smoking, such as ageing, impaired wound healing, infections and cancer, to name a few. There is no healthy amount of smoking.

A diet rich in fresh fruit, vegetables, fish oil and low in unhealthy fats (trans and saturated fats), or refined carbohydrates, keeps you feeling younger and healthier. Also ensure an adequate intake of water each day to keep cells hydrated.

Keep physically active and manage weight control Aim to maintain a BMI of between18-25. Studies recommend 150 minutes of moderate intensity exercise a

Reduce alcohol intake Alcohol misuse has many negative impacts on all aspects of an individual’s life. For

Manage Stress Uncontrolled stress triggers the sympathetic nervous system, which releases stress hormones into the body. This can lead to aggravation of conditions such as obesity, heart disease and gastrointestinal problems, to name a few. A healthy state of mind is imperative to a healthy lifestyle. Set reasonable targets for yourself and do more of the things you love.

Practice sleep hygiene Optimising your sleep schedule, pre-bed routine and daily routine is part of harnessing habits to make quality sleep feel more automatic. Having a set schedule normalises sleep as an essential part of your day and gets your brain and body accustomed to getting the full amount of sleep you require. Remember to switch off electronics at least one hour before bedtime and work towards creating a technologyfree bedroom.

The immune system

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Immune boosting and health has been a trending topic during the COVID-19 pandemic, so much so that the hashtag #immuneboosting increased by

Cardiovascular exercise increases the heart rate and improves blood circulation, which delivers oxygen and nutrients to the cells, promoting new cell production. lupus and rheumatoid arthritis. Myth 2: Receiving more than the recommended dietary allowance of a vitamin or minerals will improve your immune system. Fact: There is no evidence that taking extra amounts of any vitamin will improve your immune system, or protect you if you do have a micronutrient deficiency. If you are concerned that

Wellness

46% on Instagram. The concept of immune boosting itself is scientifically misleading and often used to market unproven products and therapies. The following are two common myths regarding immune boosting: Myth 1: The more active your immune system is, the healthier you are. Fact: A hyperactive immune response is responsible for allergic reactions to ordinary nontoxic substances. It also underlies a number of major diseases, including diabetes,

Photo by Nicole Michalou

instance, it dehydrates you entire body. Sensible drinking is quantified as no more than 14 units of alcohol a week, or no more than 2-3 units a day.

your immune system may be weakened, it is advisable to visit your medical practitioner for a full examination and further investigation, thereafter supplement deficiencies accordingly. It is well documented that a wellbalanced diet, as mentioned above, ensures intake of essential mineral and vitamins that have antioxidant, immunomodulatory and antimicrobial roles, assisting your immune response against infection. Each person has a different lifestyle, therefore a tailor-made plan to implement change is essential. Encouraging our communities, friends, family and colleges to lead a healthier lifestyle not only assist us in achieving our present goals, but sets positive habits for our life course. Take charge of your life with small changes each day.

Dr Yashica Khalawan has over six years of experience as a general practitioner. Having worked in a non-surgical aesthetic practice for the past three years, she is now completing her post graduate diploma in Dermatology through the University of Plymouth (UK), with an interest to move back into the government sector. She is very focused on internal medicine and primary health care.

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You can search by product, such as skin care and see all listings for that category. Search by brand or company name. Search for suppliers in your area Features a comprehensive listing which includes: • Full address details • Location, including access to Google maps • Full product details • Sales brochures • Product videos

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Innovate, innovate, innovate Lauren Gibson takes a close look at three trends referenced in the GWS Global Wellness Trends Report 2021 and how they can influence innovation in your salon or spa Today is different from yesterday – that is a given. We have learnt skills such as agility and flexibility and how to adapt to change quickly. But does that allow space for innovation and the creativity to think of game changers for your business? Following trends in the industry (and this can expand to overall wellness) is a great place to start, as it allows a fresh new perspective on what is predicted to impact our industry and how we can adapt or introduce elements into our business to align with these consumer and wellness trends. The Global Wellness Trends Report 2021 has just been released by the Global Wellness Summit (GWS) and some of these trends show an interesting approach to innovation that we may not have considered.

Trend 1: Big media Have you noticed the sudden increase in wellness and health documentaries and series on TV apps such as Netflix and Amazon Prime? It’s Interesting that these platforms realised this was the route most consumers were going and that this is how they could

educate the masses on a healthier lifestyle linked to more alternative therapies. Apart from TV, apps in general that encourage calmness, meditation or sleep have seen a massive rise, as well as music apps that now ‘serve’ clients content or music that speaks to their wellness needs and requirements. This highlights the power of sound, which is something we can easily implement into our salons. Or, even better, what if your client could start the treatment with a meditation or sleep guide of their choice? Adapt your treatment to be relevant.

Trend 2: Immune health Immunity doesn’t just speak to cold and flu boosting, it speaks to everything in your body, as everything is connected to your immune system. This involves healthy eating for your body and your metabolic rate, understanding your skin microbiome and how to keep it balanced, medical based personal nutrition and genetic testing to really understand your body and what you need. Boosting sleep is one is the simplest yet most powerful things we can do to balance immunity in our bodies. And we can offer

this in a salon environment. Hot and cold therapies, forest bathing and enhanced touch therapies will be incredibly beneficial to both physical and mental health. Again, all these are elements you can bring into your salon and spa space with your own unique twist.

Trend 3: Spiritual and soulful architecture There are studies to prove that design is powerful and can impact mood and behaviours – therefore how we place and design our space will become very powerful in the wellness world. The spaces we live and work in can impact our health and mental wellbeing and, by making small tweaks or changes either in a revamp or makeover, can do the world of good for your home or salon. Sometimes the innovation is so simple we miss it….but the impact that small change can make to your client’s experience is mindblowing.

Lauren Gibson has over 15 years in the health and beauty industry with qualifications in yoga, mindfulness, content marketing and management practice. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

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Business Tips

Business Tips Interveiw

Marketing business to a male audience

your Business coach Liz McKeon provides tips on how to expand your client base by attracting more men into the salon

n the majority of salons, men make up a very small portion of the client base. As far as I’ve observed, it’s generally less than 5%. However, we know that men are trying more treatments than ever before. A recent study found that 47% of men had had a salon or spa treatment in 2017, up from one in three in 2015. The market is growing and is a relatively untapped business sector for most companies I work with. I find that salon owners are often slow to realise that there may be an opportunity here, but there are the enlightened ones who are developing new and innovative ways to entice more men through their doors. And, while no one could argue that more customers is not a positive thing, there does exist the possibility that a similar

or even smaller investment in expanding your present clientele could yield a better financial return. This consideration aside, let’s just explore how to expand your male salon or spa trade. Like every other market category of clients, the challenge is always two-fold: firstly, how to attract the client into your business and secondly, how to then convert the client to a long term, lifetime client. Here are my Top Tips to increasing your male client business.

Market to the men If you choose conventional advertising in your marketing plan, place your advertisements where men tend to read. Think about sports or business magazines or websites. Also, think gift vouchers. For example, an ad promoting your Valentine’s Day gifts in the weekend game schedule can be a very valuable way to entice the men in.

Tip 2 – Gift buyer The most valuable male customer is the one buying a gift for someone

special: wife, girlfriend, mother, sister. Remember – what is well received will be repeated. Create an email list that is male-specific for marketing your salon services as wise gift selections and make it easy for him to buy from you.

Tip 3 – Upsell If he is buying gifts from you on a regular basis, why not introduce a male price list? Have a separate ‘Treatments for men‘ section on your menu, even though the treatments themselves don’t have to be different from the ones you offer to female clients, they just have to sound more masculine and focus on different benefits. Men are more focussed on the results than the protocol or ritual. They want results.

Tip 4 – Treatment packages Create treatment packages for men, which will give them the opportunity to enjoy multiple services in a single visit and expose them to more treatment options, while increasing your retail opportunities.

Sonette Donker, Jane Wurwand, Cherie Ten Hope and Ilana Gush (circa 1998)

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Business Tips

25 Tip 5 – Get the females to do the selling

Tip 6 – Go for the body! Most spas report that their number one male preferred service is massage therapy. Whether it is

Like every other market category of clients, the challenge is always two-fold: firstly, how to attract the client into your business and secondly, how to then convert the client to a long term, lifetime client. to relieve sports pain or reduce stess levels, men have sought out massage treatments since before Roman times.

Tip 7 – Retail Most men make excellent retail clients, so you might want to consider investing in skincare to meet the needs of your male clientele. Men are happy to purchase professionally recommended products and want your advice about how to improve their appearance.

Tip 8 – Give it a male focus Make sure your salon is inviting to male clients. Check that you are communicating effectively and not

Photo by Minervastudio from Pexels

One of the easiest ways to get him into the salon is through her – the wife, girlfriend or daughter who can see the benefit and do the selling for you. Christmas gifts, Father’s Day, birthdays, etc are all great opportunities to introduce your services to men. Send out an email to your client base reminding your clients to think of you when they are thinking of buying for him.

in the chit-chat style that women like in the salon. Avoid overly feminine colours when decorating. Have a pleasant aromatherapy scent that is appealing to both men and women. Being on display in a beauty salon is not something most men would want, so make sure they are in a private treatment area, where they can relax and feel comfortable.

Tip 9 – ‘Men only’ Try a ‘Men only’ day or evening, so all your male appointments are booked in during the same time, as this will make it easier for men who are nervous about coming to an all-female environment.

Tip 10 – Social media posts Use social media posts and/ or digital advertising to showcase different products and services that men might not even be aware are available to them. Always remember to emphasise the benefits. Use images and copy designed to appeal specifically to men.

Tip 11 – Stay on trend Keep up with the latest in men’s style, fashion and grooming. This helps earn their loyalty, referrals and more frequent appointments, making you their trusted advisor.

Tip 12 – Newsletter As demand grows for male services

and products, consider a separate male-orientated newsletter, where you can upsell new services. Be proactive about encouraging positive reviews of your salon from your existing male clients, as these will resonate with other men considering your services.

Tip 13 – Request referrals Stop being afraid to ask your male clients to tell their friends about you. After all, direct referrals are the best way to get new business,

Men are much more likely to act on word-ofmouth that comes from their guy friends. and men are much more likely to act on word-of-mouth that comes from their guy friends. If you find attracting and building a male clientele increases your income, then you have a new market to build on. If not, at least you’ve tried. Remember nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon. com

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Talking to… Jared Hines To coincide with Professional Beauty’s focus on male grooming in this issue, JOANNA STERKOWICZ talks to JARED HINES, the award-winning founder of Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge. When did you first open Hines & Harley and what was your motivation? I opened Hines & Harley in December of 2015 because I wanted to create a space where men could feel comfortable in an environment that offered all spa and barber treatments.

I believe you had over a decade’s worth of experience in the spa industry before you opened the salon? Yes, I started my studies at Camelot International in 2005 and qualified in 2007. I have worked in some of South Africa’s top spas, namely Mount Grace and The Saxon. In addition, I have also had cruise ship experience with Canyon Ranch.

developed a good understanding of how to run a business properly – from housekeeping to back office, and at a 5-star level, it helped me to notice the small details that most people miss.

Everything at Hines & Harley is set up in the way I would do the treatments and the way I would like to have the treatments, and it makes a big difference.

How did all this experience help you in setting up your own salon?

Both you and Hines & Harley have won several Professional Beauty Awards – do you use these accolades in terms of marketing?

Thanks to the experience I gained from these top companies working in every position, I

Yes we do, we have the banner awards up on our website and we do like to mention them every

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Elaine Okeke Martin

Interview

now and then in our online social media posts.

You are a hands-on manager – is this something that is appreciated by clients? It is and our clients can feel the difference when they enter the salon. I believe that this shows in the experience upon arrival and during the treatments. Everything is set up in the way I would do the treatments and the way I would like to have the treatments, and it makes a big difference.

How big is your team at Hines & Harley? We are currently a team of four, all qualified spa therapists. This also makes a big impact on the quality and service.

In the past few years there seem to have been a spate of male-centric salons opening up, either as franchises or

experience – from the website, to booking, to the treatment and even afterwards with home care products. We want the clients to feel our positive energy from the get go. I have always said that unhappy staff create unhappy clients. This is why I have tried to create a pleasant work environment, as well as not over working staff, and ensuring that they are paid their worth in order to keep everything running smoothly.

independent. How has this affected your business? I think it has affected us in a positive way. With the boom in these salons opening up, they have allowed more and more male clients to become aware of the services on offer. Inevitably when clients then look for a

I have always said that unhappy staff create unhappy clients. This is why I have tried to create a pleasant work environment, as well as not over working staff, and ensuring that they are paid their worth in order to keep everything running smoothly.

achieved this with our quality furniture and the premises, as together they bring this through wonderfully.

On your website you emphasise that you view a client’s visit to the salon as an experience and that a treatment is an exchange of energy that you and your team respect by always bringing the best of yourselves to the task. Please expand on this philosophy. It is most definitely an experience, which starts with the client finding us. I want to include every aspect in the

I believe you have a specific policy not to overcrowd clients – typically, how many clients at a time can you accommodate, while still sticking to this policy? This strategy plays a lot to the overall experience for the client. I want my clients to feel as though they are the only ones in the lounge. We can have a maximum of four clients at any one time, but our spacing allows us to do this without it feeling crowded.

Do you have any plans to open other branches of Hines & Harley, with a possibility of franchising? This is something that we have seriously considered, but there is nothing concrete as of yet. It is something to keep an eye on for the future.

more bespoke and higher quality treatment and service, they end up with us.

The décor, style and ambience of Hines & Harley seems to reflect an ‘oldschool gentlemanly’ feel. Please comment. Yes, my initial concept was to have a ‘1920’s Gentleman’s Club’ feel. I believe that we have online @ probeauty.co.za

Interview

28 How has your salon managed to weather the pandemic? We have done well considering. During the hard lockdown we did struggle, as did everyone. When we were allowed to open again, we got back to ‘normal’ trading quite quickly. I believe the fact that we have a large and loyal customer base helped us a lot.

Have you introduced any new treatments as a result of the pandemic? No, our treatment menu has stayed the same, we have just not had a price increase to help take the edge off after a tough 2020.

What are your most requested treatments? Most definitely our haircuts and beard shaping treatments are the most popular, although facials, pedicures and waxing are all increasing very well.

I believe you have just revamped your salon – what prompted this?

Our clients are from a wide range of fields, not business executive particularly. I think that our pricing has a lot to do with the wide range of clients we have. I was very fortunate to get a new business partner and we decided that the lounge needed to look like my original vision. We felt that the lounge needed a new look, almost as a reopening after the lockdown.

Please elaborate on the revamp – what did it involve? Did you add any new features? It was mainly cosmetic; we got new furniture in, including more comfortable barber chairs. We repainted and re-did all the light

fittings, this has brightened up the space very well. Furthermore, we did some light construction where we were able to create two separate treatment rooms for waxing and massage.

I see that during the week you are open until 7pm – that’s quite late but obviously something your clients appreciate? It is, but we do only open at 10am Monday to Thursday and at 9am on Friday and Saturday. I have found that our most popular time is between 4pm and 7pm. The clients really appreciate this.

Into what age demographic does your client base mostly fall? Are they from the business executive sector? I would say that our average age is between 30 and 40, however we have clients ranging from 3 to late 80’s. Our clients are from a wide range of fields, not business executive particularly. I think that our pricing has a lot to do with the wide range of clients we have.

Do many fathers bring their sons in for treatments? Yes, we have a large number of dads bringing their sons in for treatments, and this number is

constantly rising.

Are most of your clients regulars? Yes, I would say that on average per month, 80% of our bookings are from regulars.

When did you introduce the Hines & Harley range of products and how have they been received by your clients? I introduced the brand towards the end of 2016; our clients love the brand as it is a natural and aromatherapy based product. It gives great results and our clients love using it.

Are the products exclusive to the salon? For the moment yes, but I would love for more salons and barbers to stock the brand. We will soon be launching our online shop, which will make the product more available.

29 Male Grooming – Products

Men only New, male-specific products continue to launch regularly, concurrent with the steady growth in this niche sector of the salon and spa market Medical grade From Beauté Pacifique, the Masculinity Anti-Age Crème is a medical grade Vitamin A cream scientifically engineered for male skin, effectively preventing and repairing ageing and combatting the effects of sun damage. Two super effective types of Vitamin A in a squalane delivery system makes the vitamins penetrate so deeply that the skin’s own cells can regenerate the lost collagen/ elastin structure in full depth. 073 053 8830

Handy gel The fastabsorbing LCN Man Care Hand Gel contains malachite extract to protect against free radicals and environmental influences. Glycerin and panthenol provide the skin with moisture

and contribute towards the regeneration of the skin. Menthol is included in the formulation to achieve a long lasting cooling effect. 010 593 3293

Stylish range

Trendy oil The SIX Men’s Beard Oil is a luxury shaving product, with a high end fragrance that leaves beards smooth and silky. This soft, gentle and lightweight oil was designed specifically to soften and smooth men’s facial hair. Argan oil is the key ingredient of this beardconditioning product. 011 312 7840

Stunning scents

Hunter 1114 is a modern men’s line composed of all the bare necessities a man needs. With unique products never before seen in the market, such as Black Diamond shampoo and 24K Gold Reserve shaving cream, Hunter 1114 holds its own. The line is composed of nine amazing products that provide the opportunity to create and style. 021 981 0032

Male grooming brand, The Bluebeards Revenge, has launched three Eau De Toilettes – Original, Classic and Cuban. The scent profiles were formulated with the brand’s nautical roots in mind, teaming the invigorating blast of a sea breeze with the masculine freshness that The Bluebeards Revenge shaving range is famous for. 021 448 8847

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Business Trends

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Business Software Trends

The role that data plays in your business Today most salon and spa operations are run using software, but are business owners making the most of what can only be described as the goldmine of information at their fingertips, namely data? Knowing your data is critical – it is not just a luxury for big corporations, it is essential for any business to run successfully, no matter the size. So says Shani Leon of booking app, My Appointment. She continues: “I once asked a prospective client how she measures how well her salon is doing, and her response was: ‘I check if there is money in the bank account at the end of the month’. While this answer was humorous, it was also very honest and true for many business owners. And yes, having money in your bank account at the end of the month is definitely a clear indication of how the month went – so it is a logical thing to check. However, this is a completely re-active approach. What it won’t do is help you make decisions and move the business online @ probeauty.co.za

in a pro-active way. It will also not offer you any insights into why there is (or isn’t) money in the account at the end of the month.” Leon points out that there are so many variables that can influence the revenue of a salon business, such as seasonality, staff complement and staff performance. “When comparing data, it is important to take all of these factors into account so that we compare like with like.”

Tracking trends Gary Halberstadt of Spa Guru notes that while most salons and spas utilise a software solution to help them manage their day-today operations, it’s essential to be able to access all this electronic information in a way that allows managers and staff to track trends and act on this data.

“From a revenue perspective it’s important to keep track of what services and products are the most popular in order to help focus your marketing, and also to ensure that you are keeping up with changing client needs. “Particularly during this global pandemic, utilising data from your system to see what services are still in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential. This can ensure you focus on what’s profitable and what clients are still comfortable coming in for, whilst reducing costs on services that are currently seeing low demand,” explains Halberstadt.

‘Living information’ As Chris Parker of ESP Online points out, the term business

Photo by Carlos Muza on Unsplash

There are so many variables that can influence the revenue of a salon business, such as seasonality, staff complement and staff performance. to be ‘living information’ that should really be referred to on a daily basis and action should be taken almost daily to correct performance that is not in line with the target requirements. “Business intelligence, therefore, needs to be a working tool that not only gives you information about your business, but also assists you in doing staff appraisals on a regular basis so that they are part of the overall objectives for your spa, so that staff can benchmark themselves against the performance of the spa on the whole, as well as other therapists if necessary. Therapists need to feel empowered by the feedback that is given to them through the business intelligence cycle so that they not only get a reflection of their performance, but also the kind of input they

Key metrics

Business Software Trends

need in order to grow their performance.” Parker believes that starting with a top down view is critical and suggests that owners begin with a very simple entry point such as whether turnover is up or down compared to a comparable previous period. “This then begs the next question of why your turnover is up or down compared to a previous comparable period. The ability to answer this question will depend on your ability to make sense of the sales information that you generate on a daily basis. Every question that you are able to answer will usually lead to another question. The more questions you answer, the better. “Your aim is not only to increase turnover but ultimately to improve your profitability. Therefore, you need to be working towards not only operating at full capacity, but also to be maximising returns once you have reached capacity. For example, if all your therapists are fully booked all of the time, you may decide that your only choice is to expand by either opening another branch, or extending the size of your spa. However, by using data to pinpoint your situation, you realise that you need to be get a higher return per client visit, which should yield greater returns without the capital outlay (and imminent overheads) of expansion,” concludes Parker.

Leon points out that the My Appointment booking app can help salon owners by identifying key metrics, which can be used to make business decisions. She continues: “You will easily be able to identify which service types sell the most, which product houses sell the most, and most importantly, which are the most profitable. This type of information can help you to push the right type of sales and maximise profits. “One of the key aspects of My Appointment is that it is a completely cloud based point of

Particularly during this global pandemic, utilising data from your system to see what services are still in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential. sale. This means that not only do you have access to the necessary analytical data, but you will always have the most up to date information at any time and from anywhere. This will give you the agility to make business decisions quickly in response to what the data is telling you.”

Photo by Christin Hume on Unsplash

intelligence means gathering data, converting it into meaningful information, interpreting this information and taking positive action in response to the interpretation. “Using business intelligence to support your decision making process stands opposed to making decisions based on gut feeling. Rather you give up what you think you know about your business and take a neutral standpoint in order to let the facts speak for themselves. Business intelligence gives an objective point of view rather than a subjective point of view. “The difference between business intelligence and management reporting is that business intelligence is meant

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Spa Focus

The power of

sound in

your spa space A simple yet so powerful way in which we can make a memory last forever is through sound, writes Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Professionals Guild

As we navigate our way through these turbulent waters, our responsibility as spa owners and managers, as well as the therapists performing the treatments, is to look for ways to contribute to our clients’ wellbeing and to constantly look for ways to enhance their treatment and give them an unforgettable experience. Sound affects your business in more ways than you think. It can have a direct impact on staff productivity, customer loyalty, brand identity and my favourite – sales revenue. Yes, you read correctly – sound. Let’s first look at how sound affects our brains and then share some ideas on how to bring this into your space. 1. Music helps reduce the

perception of pain. This is interesting as many of our clients are experiencing pain somewhere in their body, so already you are helping them from a pain perception point of view. 2. Music occupies the mind and ‘distracts’ so to speak, thereby focusing the mind on something positive, soothing and uplifting. 3. Music has the ability to stimulate brain waves. Here’s something interesting: slow beats encourage medidative states, fast beats encourage alertness and concentration. This can tell you a lot about your clients’ state of mind when they chose what type of music they want to hear. 4. Music has the ability to alter breathing and heart rate. It’s very important to consider what music you are playing for different client needs. 5. And most importantly, music

Image of musical notes by mohamed Hassan from Pixabay

causes the brain to release dopamine, a feel good chemical. Now let’s look at the various areas where sound makes a difference.

First impressions really do last From the second your client and staff walk through the spa door,

From the second your client and staff walk through the spa door, music will impact their mood, experience and spend. music will impact their mood, experience and spend. Think about when you open the spa first thing in the morning, how does that

Photo by Anthony from Pexels

Action: Find the music style that aligns to your brand and stick to it in the public areas of the spa as this will be remembered.

Boost sales revenue

‘dead silence’ make you feel as you open the door? Then think about what happens the second you put some music on. Did you know that playing music your client enjoys makes them 24% more likely to buy a product? Action: The music at the entrance point of the salon and reception area should be different to the rest of the space. It is the first impression, so make it memorable!

Personalisation The personalisation of music directly influences customer loyalty. A study done by Music Works found that 31% of customers would return to a business if the music was ‘right’ and 21% of them said they would also recommend that business based on their perception of the ‘right’ music. Action: Have you ever thought about using personalisation of music as part of your loyalty programme? Include music choices in your consultations and even go so far as to offer music playlists for your clients to choose from. You can give some clients the option of connecting their own devices to your speaker so they can play their own choice of

: Image by PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay

music. Make this the fun part of the treatment.

Brand identity When thinking about building a brand, we immediately shift to visual elements such as logo, signage, lighting and décor. Don’t forget about music, as it makes

A study done by Music Works found that 31% of customers would return to a business if the music was ‘right’ and 21% of them said they would also recommend that business based on their perception of the ‘right’ music. a direct and cost effective way to build rapport with clients and establish a mood which has a direct influence on establishing your brand identity.

Music volume affects the speed at which your clients move through your space. A slower beat encourages a longer stay time, which in turn encourages more spend. Specific genres of music can encourage higher value spend. Action: Choose your music at spend points carefully to encourage the client to slow down, browse more and buy more.

Staff productivity MindLab neuropsychologist, Dr David Lewis, said: “Music is an incredibly powerful management tool in increasing the efficiency of a workforce. It can exert a highly beneficial influence over employee morale and motivation, helping enhance output and even boosting a company’s bottom line.” The cause for this productivity boost, according to additional studies, is attributed to the mood enhancing properties of music. This explains why 74% of employees who like music enjoy going to work when good music is played. And why 75% of business owners believe allowing staff to listen to music helps with team bonding. Action: Morning huddles MUST include one song played out LOUD to boost blood flow and circulation and release dopamine into the workspace. There is so much more to write about music and sounds and how they affect every single area of your business, but I am hoping that from this article you will make some important changes as to how you use music to directly affect your bottom line.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

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Spa Focus

Anti-ageing Skincare

In pursuit of an eternally youthful complexion Arguably the most researched sector of skincare, and the one into which the most investment is made, is that of anti-ageing. According to Statista, the global skincare industry has witnessed a shift from demand from older consumers to a growing younger consumer base keen to delay the signs of ageing. Here we focus on some of the latest anti-ageing ingredients Chilean grape seed From Danish medical grade skincare brand is Beauté Pacifique’s Chilean grape seed infused Paradoxe range. Serum Paradoxe is based on high concentrations of both squalane and the Chilean grape seed extract

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(GSPE), which has ‘near’ medical properties, as in the brand’s flagship product, Crème Paradoxe, but re-formulated into a super potent serum that submerges deeply into the skin, providing a strong anti-age effect and a remarkable anti-reddening effect on rosacea-looking skin. Serum Paradoxe improves visually large pores, uneven pigmentation and blushing skin tone, as well as adding a visible glow to your make-up. The product, which contains two types of vitamin E, also provides cellular defence against aggressive free radicals. Skin-compatible squalene enables the serum to submerge deeply into the skin and ‘re-fill’

squalene that is lost previously in sun-damaged and aged skin. The surface of the skin immediately appears smoothed and perfectly prepared for makeup. Make-up can be applied either directly, or pre-mixed with Serum Paradoxe, or traditionally after applying a Beauté Pacifique day cream, securing your daily moisturising routine.

Growth factor technology Designed to promote rejuvenation, the AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum contains patented Growth Factor Technology (U.S. Pat. 8,518,879) to help stimulate natural growth, as well as organise and maintain your own skin cells.

peptides help to tighten sagging skin, smooth wrinkles, and decrease the appearance of fine lines. AQ Eye Serum also helps with micro-circulation of the under-eye area, addressing bags and dark circles.

Focus on the neck No matter how healthy the face looks, the neckline can tell a different story, as skin on the neck is thinner than facial skin. This makes it particularly vulnerable to sun damage and the wrinkle-

Kappaphycus alvarezii extract and Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract. As the mesh retracts, it smoothes and tightens skin for an immediate visible lifting effect and immediate decrease in the appearance of wrinkle depth. It also helps to decrease the penetration of environmental pollutants that can lead to premature signs of skin ageing. Rye Seed Extract, a novel Palmitoyl Tripeptide-42, and Rambutan Extract work together to deliver retinol-like results, visibly smoothing, firming and toning skin. Resurrection Plantinspired polysaccharide helps strengthen skin’s moisture barrier for a smooth, even appearance, while Griffonia Seed Extract provides antioxidant defense to help safeguard results against free radicals.

Youthful elixir

deepening motion of looking down at devices, otherwise known as ‘tech neck’. Lack of proper skin care can further exacerbate these effects. Dermalogica’s newly released Neck fit contour serum is specifically tailored to address the needs of neck skin. This serum, in the form of a lightweight roll-on, was designed with advanced ingredients to provide a lifting and tightening effect to visibly smooth fine lines and wrinkles on the neck and décolleté. One of the key ingredients is Flex lift Contour technology, which acts like an invisible mesh to immediately tighten skin with powerful polymers. Advanced ingredients tone over time to deliver retinol-like results. This technology is made up of a hydrolysed biopolymer produced by a microorganism living in plant roots and acacia Senegal gum plus Oligosaccharides from

The Avance Elixir from Environ contains Měiritage, a unique blend of extracts from Chinese roots used in traditional medicine, which has been shown to be effective in reducing the effects of oxidative stress (UV radiation and pollution) and lightening the appearance of uneven skin tone. Avance Elixir also contains a combination of three powerful peptide complexes that may assist in improving the overall structure of the skin. This powerful combination of ingredients in this multifunctional serum may leave the skin looking radiantly luminous and resiliently younger for longer.

Peeling power Cosmeceutical peeling, in the past, was based on removing as many dead skin cells as possible, to trigger the skin cell renewal

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Photo by Retha Ferguson Pexels

AQ Active Serum has been formulated to maintain a stable conformation of high-purity fibroblast growth factors that are genetically similar to those naturally made by the body. Supplementing the face and neck with AQ Active Serum can help the skin naturally rejuvenate itself, returning the skin to its youthful state. The product helps decrease wrinkles and fine lines, while aiming to build collagen naturally. It improves the appearance of skin texture and pigmentation and can fade stubborn sun damage, age spots and scars Say the experts at AQ Skin Solutions: “Perceived skin ageing, such as wrinkles, roughness, pigmentation and loss of elasticity, is largely due to damage caused by environmental factors. In fact, researchers have found that almost 90% of skin ageing is due to exposure to UV light from the sun. This process is known as photoageing. Air pollution, smoking, and irritable toxins are among other factors contributing to perceived ageing. Repeated exposure to these factors results in skin that is unable to maintain its structure and health due to the breakdown of collagen and decreased production of growth factors. Designed to target the undereye area, the AQ Skin Solutions Eye Serum utilises a gentle formula to promote smoother looking skin. It helps to stimulate the skin’s natural process of rejuvenation with a patented growth factor (GF) blend and active ingredients used to target bilirubin. Daily use can lead to younger, brighter, and tighter looking skin. This product aims to increase firmness, while several smoothing

Anti-ageing Skincare Business Trends

Anti-ageing Skincare

38 process to heal itself and therefore improve the various skin conditions and types. The new SkinPhD peels have a vastly different and unique concept to fit into the new generational lifestyles we lead. The question that must be asked prior to peeling is: ‘How able is the skin to heal itself when exposed to more stress, more pollution, more medication usage and the newest damaging factor from blue light in devices?’ The simple answer to this question is that the skin is not as able to selfheal as 20 years ago. That is why SkinPhD has developed the latest phenomena in peeling – peel but support the skin to heal – through its Surface to Cell concept. A major factor in skin healing and optimal anti-ageing is cellular energy. By using peeling acids in combination with PEPHA®-CTIVE, SkinPhD has achieved the following: protecting the cell’s ‘battery’ or mitochondria against oxidative stress caused by free radicals; increasing the cellular energy by up to 140% which offers immediate skin radiance that is sorely lacking in ageing skin; improving the fibroblast proliferation by up to 320% for reversal of lines, wrinkles and sagging skin; and dramatically increasing cell renewal by four to five days, giving the skin a fresher and more luminous appearance SkinPhD remains committed to changing the way skin is treated by using maximum concentrations, effective

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ingredient combinations and independent clinically tested pharmaceutical ingredients.

Resurrection plant The recently released Esse Resurrect Serum takes its name from the Namibian plant, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia, or ‘Resurrection Plant’, which grows in the Namib, the oldest desert in the world. The nickname comes from its unique ability to come back to life in a matter of hours after it has been dried out – even if it has not seen a drop of water for many years. The Resurrection Plant has high polyphenol content

key processes associated with retinol but without the associated sensitivity. The result is wrinkle reduction, improvements in skin firmness, prevention of future damage and reduction in the symptoms of problem skin. GABA is an amino acid that provides vital nutrients to the skin that help accelerate cell turnover and the rebuilding of support structures. It fights, rather than causes, inflammation and nourishes irritated skin to help even out the appearance of discolouration and redness. These actives, together with one million tyndallised probiotics per ml are housed in a base of aloe gel with prebiotics to feed microbial diversity and improve barrier function.

New phase

and is a potent protector against free radicals. An independent study conducted with 20 women has shown that extracts of the Resurrection Plant rapidly improve skin hydration and the effect lasts for 24 hours after a single application. The Esse formula, developed by the brand’s founder and biochemist, Trevor Steyn, contains Bakuchiol and Gamma Aminobutyric Acid (GABA). Bakuchiol is hailed as ‘retinol without the side-effects’ and is extracted from Indian Babchi seeds. It stimulates the three

RégimA is entering a very exciting new power phase by introducing RégimA Medic. Products are formulated with powerful antiageing in mind. The first product to be launched – RégimA Medic Peel de Monaco – Profond Exfolier is a very powerful, strictly in-salon treatment. The first of two new anti-ageing ingredients within Peel de Monaco is Bakuchiol (Sytenol A), an exciting retinol alternative, proven as effective. As a natural alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol offers much better skin tolerance with the absence of phototoxicity and no other drawbacks. Bakuchiol provides superior skincare benefits both for antiageing and anti-acne, offering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and mitochondrial protection properties from oxidative stress. Trials between Bakuchiol and Retinol established the benefits, significantly decreasing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with no

statistical difference between the two actives. It concluded Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoageing, and with better tolerance. Bakuchiol also offers benefits for acne, reducing sebum production, bacteria, inflammation, and hyperkeratinisation; clinically proven to reduce the severity of acne. The other new ingredient in Peel de Monaco is Dragosantol 100, the purest nature identical d,l-alpha-Bisabolol with Farnesol. This Highly effective product is anti-inflammatory and reduces skin irritation. Dragosantol® 100 is a monocyclic, unsaturated sesquiterpene alcohol used as an anti-irritant in sensitive skin products.

(ideal to reduce wrinkles density and renew the skin matrix), and multi-benefit Niacinamide, among other potent actives, to nurture the skin with a velvety blanket of enriched goodness.

Vitamin power The VITA A Cream from pHformula is an advanced 24-hour treatment. This vitamin A-infused moisturiser helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots from both photo and intrinsic ageing. Suitable for all skin types except sensitive and rosacea-prone skins, this product cannot be used if you are pregnant or lactating. Key ingredients include pure retinol, the gold standard of anti-ageing ingredients. It also helps in correcting blemishes and blotchiness often associated with problematic skin. The 24hour moisturising complex in the formula comprises a synergistic

blend of natural moisturising factors that assist in prolonged hydration and protection of the skin. This product is noncomedogenic, fragrance-free and paraben-free, with no added colour, no lanolin or mineral oil. It is not tested on animals.

Extra boost From LCN, the Youth Hyaluron Shot is targeted for every skin in need of an extra boost of care. This serum provides the skin with additional moisture and offers lasting protection. The optimal moisture penetration results in an increase in elasticity. The product contains a low molecular hyaluronic acid, which penetrates the skin to provide the ideal moisture reserve. In addition, this shot contains radical scavenging properties. Also from LCN, the Instant Oxygen Shot serves as an oxygen-booster fort the skin. The oxygen supply is achieved by the ingredients complex of mannitol, faex extract, glycogen and magnesium.

Creamy formula The QMS Collagen Recovery Day & Night Cream is a deeply moisturising recovery cream that helps to combat skin dryness, the appearance of wrinkles and loss of firmness, including effects caused by hormonal changes. Its creamy formula contains QMS’ renowned Neotec A15® Collagen-Hyaluronic Acid complex, combined with advanced Biomimetic Placenta to improve elasticity, reduce wrinkles’ appearance and boost moisturisation, Red Clover Extract

online @ probeauty.co.za

Anti-ageing Skincare

Fat grafting in the aesthetic industry Dr Kamlen Pillay, leading plastic surgeon and head of The Specialist Laser and Cosmetic Institute (SCIN), provides the lowdown on fat grafting, a facial rejuvenation treatment that offers an alternative to dermal fillers and botulinum toxins Fat transfer, also known as fat grafting or fat injection, is becoming an immensely popular procedure due to the natural and aesthetically pleasing result that is produced. It is a safe, long-lasting and well-tolerated procedure. How it works is that fat is harvested from one part of your body, washed and purified, and then carefully reinjected with specially designed needles into the areas that need augmentation, or where there is a lack of volume. It may be necessary to repeat the fat grafting procedure several times to achieve the desired result. Fat grafting can be explained as a three-stage process: (1) harvesting (2) purification and transfer and (3) placement. The patient and doctor will select a site for fat removal and the doctor will inject it with a local anaesthetic. A small incision will be created in the area for fat removal and, using a sterile technique, a cannula connected to a syringe will be inserted to carefully extract fat. This suction technique that removes adipose tissue from specific areas of the body (such as the abdomen, hips, thighs, buttocks, arms, or neck) is known as liposuction, which also has a contouring effect on treated areas. In terms of purification and transfer, once enough fat is obtained from the donor area, the doctor will process it to prepare the fat cells for transfer to small syringes that will be used for fat injection. Purification may online @ probeauty.co.za

require the use of a centrifuge to spin the fat or a filtration process to remove impurities. The area designated to receive the graft will then be prepared and the doctor will insert a needle or cannula into the incision point of the site being augmented. Typically, the injection needle is passed in and out of the areas to be augmented multiple times. Each time the needle or cannula is withdrawn, a line of fatty tissue parcels is carefully deposited in natural tissue planes. This process is repeated until the desired correction has been achieved, creating a grid of grafted fat. This procedure is also used in breast surgery. Fat grafting can be done during breast augmentation and breast reconstruction. If a patient is interested in increasing their breast size, they will be a good candite for fat grafting. If breast defects are seen following a lumpectomy for breast cancer, fat grafting is also an effective way to fill the defects.

Advantages Besides fat grafting being safe and giving you a natural looking result, there are many other advantages

to this procedure – such as improvement of the overlay skin texture, skin quality, and removing unwanted fat. Generally speaking, only a few days of recovery are required. It may take several weeks or months to see final visible results from fat grafting, as in most cases it takes a while for newly transferred fat cells to establish a blood supply and take permanent hold in their new location. Although it is common after a surgical fat transfer to experience some bruising and swelling, as well as some temporary numbness in the area, this will subside in 14 days. At my practice, our staff is hands on with all our patients after having surgeries done. Our teams do regular follow ups to assure that patients receive the best experience and post op care.

Image from Pixabay

Aesthetic Medicine

In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Tinted sun protection

World first

Breathable and with an Anti-Pollution Shield, the Sunskin Sunscreen UV-Derm Face SPF 50 Tinted Gel Sunscreen is a 3-in-1 product (i.e. sun protection, foundation and moisturiser). Formulated with full spectrum sun protection, it is available in the following shades: Light 0, Light 1, Light 2, Medium 1, Medium 2, Dark 1, and Dark 2.

083 722 5830

From RapidLash, the RapidGlam Lash Enhancing Mascserum is positioned as the world’s first mascara-serum combination. It is a lash serum combined with creamy, black mascara and fibre-infused primer, yielding an instantly defined, voluminous look coupled with uncompromising lash conditioning and enhancing benefits for longer-looking lashes in six weeks.

073 053 8830

Brow-tastic!

Vitabrow from EyEnvy® is a breakthrough formula that is used on brows and lashes at night. It helps to achieve fuller and stronger brows while improving the texture. The combination of peptides tonifies your eyebrows to prevent breakage and softens it to help manage difficult/ springy eyebrows and lashes.

073 281 8050

Fresh cream

In its Crème Fraîche® de Beauté cream-in-mist Express 24Hr Moisturising Care, NUXE has created a fresh take on moisturising. This product envelops the face in a refreshing milky veil with a delicious scent of Orange Blossom. Its formula is enriched with botanical sweet almond milk to infuse the skin with 24-hours of moisture.

021 701 2900

Supplementary Meal

Nutrition health experts, FUTURELIFE®, have launched their supplementary meal range, BEAUTI FOOD™. This scientifically-formulated product, which is available in delicious, on-the-go bar and shake formats, enhances skin health through a unique mixture of collagen peptides, vitamins, minerals and protein. It is a low GI product.

031 303 2427

online @ probeauty.co.za

Product News

Hair News

Hair Awards winners announced

Sponsored by

The winners of the inaugural Salon International Hair Awards Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional were announced during a virtual online ceremony held on the evening of 22 February 2021. Over 200 entries were received for the Creative Photographic categories, which were judged by Gary Rom of Gary Rom Hairdressing, Terence Jansen van Vuuren of Terenzo Suites, and Henkel Beauty Care’s Chaswyn Morris and Beverley Salvadori. Candice Mckay of Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering scooped the Overall Hairdresser of the Year Award, also winning the Cut & Colour category and placing in two other categories.

CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC AWARDS

Afro Hairdresser of the Year 1st Thomas Tsheola House Of Thomas 2nd Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering 3rd Anel Cloete C - Connoisseurs Studio

online @ probeauty.co.za

1st

2nd

3rd

Fantasy Hairdresser of the Year

2nd

3rd

1st Nicole Wiese, Tracy Barclay and Taylor Sandow Rock Paper Scissors Hair Shop 2nd Sasha-lee De Vries Pasquale hairstylist 3rd - Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering

Cut & Colour Hairdresser of the Year

1st 1st

2nd

3rd

1st Candice Mckay - Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering 2nd Sasha-lee De Vries Pasquale hairstylist 3rd Dylan Shrives - Blu Gel hair studio

Up & Coming Hairdresser of the Year

1st

1st Raeesa Dawood Raeesa international 2nd Melanie Backlund Shag High Voltage Hair 3rd Marni Malan Hair @ Bennies

3rd 2nd online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair News

Serums

Apprentice of the Year

1st

1st Varushkh Govindasamy Blu Gel Hair Studio 2nd Lee Vanderbyl Blu Gel Hair Studio 3rd Nomfundo Sokhela – Blu Gel Hair Studio

BUSINESS AWARDS

Manager of the year 1st Eric Way Lovemore Groomed Men & Groomed Ladies 2nd Darryl November Nehzrah Hair Salon 3rd Inge Ramos Style Studio Platinum

Salon Design

1st Nudo Hair Lab Pretoria 2nd Medellin Gentlemen Groomers 3rd Stijl Men

Marketing Campaign 1st Style Bar 2nd Hair by Anri 3rd Mirrors Hair Lab

Overall Hairdresser of the Year Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering

3rd 2nd INDUSTRY SUPPLIER AWARDS

Best Hair Equipment

Sharplines Salon Interiors

Best Haircare Brand Mycro Keratin

Best Product Training WAHL

Best Overall Brand Presence Wella Professionals

Best Sales Rep Thys Ferreira – Twincare

Salon International congratulates all the winners and would like to thank the headline sponsor of the awards Schwarzkopf Professional. Thanks also to the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology and Beauty) for sponsoring the Industry Supplier Awards.

Issue 39

March 2021

ON THE RIGHT FOOT Incorporating reflexology into pedicures

BUDGET CRUNCH Managing finances

Image by Jerzy Gorecki from Pixabay

FINISHING TOUCH

Gel polishes

Serums

Systems

MARIA HEIDI

CLARA

ELENA

ANNA

LUCIANA

LEXI

Welcome

t’s a tough enough business managing your salon’s finances at the best of times, let alone during a pandemic. Yet it is a fundamental element of the running of any successful business. In this issue we include a useful article on how to handle finances and control budgets. A salon’s treatment menu is a living thing, in that it can always be adapted and updated. In terms of pedicures, an interesting angle might be to incorporate reflexology, as you’re working with the feet already. We have an expert’s view on how to achieve this. Gel polish manicures have proved to be one of the most popular and profitable nail services available. In this issue we put the spotlight on some of the top gel polish systems in the market and their USPs.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside

Industry News

Stay in the know

50 Ask the Experts

52 Money Talk

Managing finances

Incorporating reflexology into pedicures

Product Hub

Step by step

Systems

French glam nail art online @ probeauty.co.za

Latest releases

Spotlight on gel polish

56 Top Tech Talk

Annelize van Tonder

49 News

NEWS

OPI and Kerry Washington reunite to celebrate OPI’s 40th anniversary

Professional salon nail care brand, OPI, has announced that actress, producer, director and activist, Kerry Washington, will serve as brand ambassador for the company’s 40th anniversary this year. Washington returns to OPI where she previously served as the brand’s first ever Creative Ambassador in 2016. In this role, Washington collaborated with OPI co-founder Suzi Weiss-Fischmann to create the ‘Washington D.C.’ collection. Throughout all of 2021, OPI will spotlight 40 of the brand’s most iconic shades. Among the top

Kerry Washington and Suzi Weiss-Fischmann (PR Newsfoto OPI Products Inc.)

shades is Washington’s previously co-created shade, ‘We the Female’, a commanding red nail lacquer that was part of the previous collaboration. ”We are delighted that Kerry is reprising her role as brand ambassador during our anniversary year,” said Weiss-Fischmann. “Kerry is a woman of style and substance who is fierce in everything she undertakes, from acting to activism.” Washington is a Primetime Emmy® Award winner and Emmy®and Golden Globe®- nominee

Seasonal nail trends update Looking to the Northern Hemisphere’s Spring/ Summer 2021 Season, Professional Beauty UK predicts that wavy line nail art, geometrics, negative space, neat shapes, rainbow and 1970s-inspired nail designs are expected to trend strongly this year. Amanda Pauley reports that because clients spent the majority of 2020 and 2021 with naked nails in lockdown, clients will most likely be desperate to have their ‘manicure fix’ back. Pauley’s feedback from top overseas nail experts reveals that more subtle and abstract nail art is likely to dominate the season, with wavy lines and muted designs. This will see simple, minimalist nail art such as French tip, geometric, wavy lines and chic negative

space designs. Japanese-inspired manicures with barely there colour have also been all over the catwalks and social media. Rainbows will be big – both bright and pastel – and trending colours are bubblegum pink, all shades of blue (particularly cobalt blue), and strong greens and emeralds. As 1970s interior fashion is making a comeback, nail art with a twist from that era is expected to be big.

who has been honored five times with the NAACP Image Award. In 2014 she was named one of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People, and is one of the cofounders of TIME’s UP. “It is always inspiring to work with Suzi, one of the first female co-founders of a major beauty company,” comments Washington. “Suzi may be known as the ‘First Lady of Nails,’ but she is also a true champion of women’s causes – one whose impact far transcends her own industry.” #40YearsOfColor In terms nail shapes, short, neat shapes are likely to prevail, with long extended nail shapes, such as coffin and ballerina, on the way out. However, later in the year, the long square nail (a la the 1990s) may prove popular.

Nail art by Kirsty Maekin (Source: Pinterest)

ask

the experts Image by andreas160578 from Pixabay

Business Tips

QUESTION: How can I incorporate reflexology into a pedicure treatment?

eflexology is defined as a massage technique that involves applying a certain amount of pressure to the feet. It is based on the ancient Chinese theory that the body organs are mirrored in the feet. A reflexologist uses a map of the feet to determine the different pressure points. A general feeling of well-being, as well as a reduction in stress and anxiety, are some of the immediate benefits after a reflexology session. It is a complex therapy as it deals with every single system in the body – such as the nervous system, reproductive system, skeleton, etc., so you need indepth knowledge of all the organs in the body and how each one functions in order to perform reflexology treatments. I studied reflexology at the University of Johannesburg over a period of three years. In a reflexology treatment, you work from the top down to clear any blockages in the body systems

and to stimulate the organs. At the salon where I work, I’ve noticed that lately, people are becoming more aware of natural therapies such as this. It’s important to note that it’s not the job of the reflexologist to treat medical conditions – we clear up blockages in the body systems, which results in a detoxing effect. In terms of how to incorporate reflexology into pedicures, because you are working with the feet anyway it’s fairly simple to incorporate reflexology into a pedicure service, as long as it’s as per client demand and performed by a qualified reflexologist. I perform the full pedicure first – in other words, wash, soak and then scrub the feet, followed by the filing of the heels. Then I would do the reflexology treatment – which is typically around 45 minutes. Once I have finished the reflexology, I end the session by painting the toe nails. All of our pedicure treatments are done on treatment beds, which is perfect for reflexology as you do need the client’s legs to be raised. Before commencing the

reflexology treatment, I ask the client if they have any particular concerns, such as lower back pain, or kidney or bladder problems, for instance. Then I would work on clearing the entire body system first before concentrating on the particular issue/s the client has raised. Post treatment, because of the detoxing effect, we encourage the client to drink water. If addressing a particular concern, you can recommend either two or three treatments a week, with a day in between. Otherwise, one treatment a week and then once monthly maintenance. If we incorporate a reflexology into the pedicure, we charge for each treatment separately.

Udiptha Kander has a Btech Somatology qualification and has been a senior therapist at The Mask in Parkview, Johannesburg, since 2005.

French glam nail art 2 1 3 4 5 6

Step by Step

This stylishly ethereal nail design was created by Karien Ferreira using professional gel

Apply one layer of Base gel and cure. I used Calgel Natural Base Gel, with a Calgel flat gel brush.

Use the desired amount of silver foil (according to personal preference) and gently place in a French manicure formation (take care not to place foil over the imaginary smile line). I used a toothpick and tweezers.

Gently apply your desired silver liner gel in the style you desire according to the customer’s preference. I used Calgel Plus Premium Silver liner gel A01SL. For a soft and elegant look, I chose very subtle swirls. I also lined the smile line with the silver liner gel. The Calgel Liner brush was used to create elegant thin lines. Cure after application.

Apply two layers of Calgel Plus Shimmer White as your base/ back colour. Cure between each layer. I used the G03WH colour from the Calgel Plus colour range.

Apply two layers of a sheer (translucent) blue gel colour in a French manicure style over the foil (ensure your smile line is a clean straight line) and cure. I used the S01BL colour gel from the Calgel Plus Jelly colour range. Finish the design with one layer of top gel and cure. I used the Calgel Non-Wipe Top Gel. This will give you a long-lasting shine that will last for up to four weeks.

Karien Ferreira is a nail technician and Calgel educator.

Money talk Key to the successful running of any salon business is managing finances and controlling your budget. Salon owner Tania Biddle provides some useful tips in this regard How to manage your finances is a tough topic, especially during the current pandemic. Although times are difficult for everyone at the moment, nails and beauty is a thriving and feel-good industry. Now, more than ever, men and woman are focused on their image and will spend lots of time and money to maintain this image and feel good about themselves, regardless of the situation. Running a business means that there is constant financial stress – so you need to ask yourself – is your business financially healthy? Here are some pointers that I have learnt from successful business owners over the years.

Manage your cash flow Become an employee of your business and pay yourself a monthly salary as you would do for any employee. Living out of your business earnings on a daily basis means that you have no control over the cash flow and could end up in the position of not being able to cover all expenses at the end of the month, due to a portion of the earnings already having been spent.

Budget Setting a monthly and annual budget will help you keep track

of your finances, stay in line with healthy expenditure and make smart choices with your hardearned money. The tricky part is learning to stick to the budget. Having a card machine or offering clients the choice of electronic payments is not only safer, but will also assist in you being able to keep track of your income during the month, and avoiding the unnecessary expenditure of having cash on hand.

Successful stock management Manage stock correctly to avoid unnecessary stock purchases. Often we get caught up in the daily hustle and will order in a hurry based on what we think we need, rather than what we really do need. Organised shelves and storage areas will prevent you from ordering products that you may already have but have forgotten about. Order products, such as new colour gels, based on client preference and what’s in demand. This will ensure that stock is used and retailed regularly rather than having slow movers on your shelves.

Image from Pixabay

Business Tips

Well-researched and market related pricelist Do not keep discounting your treatment prices during quiet months in the hopes of getting a few extra bookings. Although this may be done with the intention of attracting more feet into the salon, it often has the reverse effect as well as a loss in terms of covering expenses. Keep treatment prices fixed but offer extras to ensure the package appears attractive to the client, for example a gel overlay at a fixed price and receive the nail art for free. Always stay on top of your game and one step ahead. Brainstorm ways of making your business stand out, be active on social media, maintain a fresh business image, promote positivity and you will remain in demand with a diary full of bookings.

Tania Biddle is the owner of the awardwinning Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort and is the head of education for Bio Sculpture.

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Mischievous collection Gelish and Morgan Taylor’s Disney Villains Fall 2021 Collection invites nail techs to unleash their deliciously wicked side. Disney Villains have lived in the shadows of heroes for too long, so this collection brings to life some of your favourite infamous villains with deep shades to bring on your naughtier and edgier side, and rich jewel tone finishes to enchant.

011 447 0659

Gently does it The QD Pro-Design Nails Hand Sanitiser is highly effective while being gently moisturising and gorgeously scented. With over 70% perfume grade alcohol and containing Chlorhexidine as used by surgeons and health workers, the product is formulated with humectants and emollients to give skin a smooth and luxurious feel.

076 376 5945

Festive independence Jessica Cosmetics has launched the Indie Fest Collection, a range of six new Custom Colours with matching Geleration shades. They are: Desert Dust; Centre Stage; Bestie; Petal Power; and Dream Catcher.

011 454 8119

Glittery product Calgel has launched an Art Glitter Collection, comprising a glitter gel product in a concentrated form. This collection has various uses for creating nail art. It is available in six colour options with the following Codes: A01GD, A02GD, A02SL, A03SL, A06BR and A07BR.

011 624 1101

In the Market

Systems

Spotlight on gel polish

Gel polish manicures have grown into one of the most popular services in salons, due to their ease of application and removal, not to mention durability and flexibility. Here we look at just some of the top professional gel manicure systems on the market EVO Created by Bio Sculpture, EVO Gel Polish is quick and easy to apply. With excellent adhesive properties, EVO is an extremely durable, long-lasting, high shine gel overlay. This gel polish system in a bottle consists of Base Gels, Colours and Top Coat. It is backed by 30 years of gel

development experience. Extensive testing and quality control ensure that clients receive the highest quality products. Manufacturing is underwritten by ISO (Quality Management Standards) and CGMP (Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice). EVO proudly conforms to all EU and FDA cosmetic industry requirements and is not tested on animals, does not contain any animal products, and is a suitable product for vegan use. Colour palettes are compiled following fashion trends, adding seasonal trendy colours as well as everyday wear shades to the EVO range.

Gelish Created by the legendary Danny

online @ probeauty.co.za

Haile, Gelish Soak Off Gel Polish is positioned as ‘the original long wearing gel polish’. It was the first gel polish to be packaged in a bottle, with a brush, as a quick, easy and efficient gel application process. Established in 2009, Gelish has since produced hundreds of gorgeous colours, and is sold in over 80 countries worldwide. The innovative Gelish system continues to be one of the most trusted systems worldwide. Gelish is committed to providing the best products for the industry, as well as sharing knowledge through unprecedented education and developing long lasting

customer loyalty. It is distributed in South Africa by Sparkle Cosmetics.

CND CND (Creative Nail Design, Inc.), a global leader in professional nail, hand and foot beauty, successfully introduced its SHELLAC® Brand 14+ Day Nail Color in 2010. This gel

nails healthy and hydrated. This gel polish system is formulated without formaldehyde, toluene, dybutyl phtalate (dbp), camphor, formaldehyde resin, ethil tosylamide, tphp, acetone, parabens and lead. It is certified origin 87% organic, not tested on animals and formulated without parabens or petrolatum. There are no animal derived ingredients and additives. Faby is distributed in South Africa by Rapple.

Jessica

polish system delivers 14+ days of flawless wear, superior colour and mirror shine with zero dry-time and no nail damage. Deeply committed to advancing the nail care industry, CND devotes significant time and resources to product research and development, education and customer support. CND is an industry-leading advocate for the role of nail care in personal beauty and fashion and is distributed in South Africa by Exclusive Beauty Solutions.

Faby Available in 90+ colours, Faby Lacquering Gel is a gel system that doesn’t dry by evaporation, thus

The Jessica GELeration system is a synergistic line of professional products developed to deliver optimal results that last for three to four weeks. GELeration meets Jessica’s high quality standards to care for the health and growth of natural nails, with ease of application and removal. This system protects your nails, while offering weak, bitten or

problem nails the opportunity to grow underneath the gel. GELeration is durable yet flexible and offers a non-chip, no smudging finish. It boasts super-fast drying times and simple removal. There is no odour, no formaldehyde, phyhalates or DBP. GELeration is distributed in South Africa by Spa & Salon Solutions.

Madam Glam allowing the nail technician to use the entire contents of the bottle. This means that the user gets great value for your money. Faby Lacquering Gel is easy and fast to apply and lasts two to three weeks, with a super glossy finish. The removal procedure is simple and stress-free, leaving the natural

A New York City based start-up beauty brand founded in 2014, Madam Glam was founded with a rebellious mind and a lofty objective: to create salon-quality, carefully sourced nail and gel polishes. Madam Glam is the only nailcare brand certified by Vegan. org, which now allows salons and nail techs to move into the vegan market with confidence.

Systems

This brand of gel polish is crueltyfree and does not contain hema. Madam Glam supports PETA and Leaping Bunny. It is a 21-free gel polish – this means that 21 of the most harmful toxins have been removed from the formulations. Madam Glam is a palm oil-free and gluten-free gel polish. The gels are highly pigmented with full coverage in just two coats and provide the nail technician with the perfect consistency for artwork. Madam Glam is available in South Africa through Sienna Distribution and is found in all SkinPhD aesthetic salons.

LCN From LCN, the Nail Boost Gel Keratin is a light curing, solvent resistant permanent gel polish that protects and nourishes the natural nail. Apart from providing a stabilising cover that allows the nail to regenerate, this product offers a perfect polish surface. The Nail Boost Gel Keratin can be used as a refill to strengthen natural

nails and also as a base care for long lasting colour polish Keratin is a base substance of nails that provides them with firmness and resilience. As keratin is one of the structural proteins, it is necessary for building a cell structure. Therefore nails with an impaired keratin structure are brittle. This highly effective ingredient offers nails the base substance for healthy nail growth. Soft and brittle nails are strengthened. online @ probeauty.co.za

56 Business Trends Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile talks to awardwinning nail technician, Annelize van Tonder, about all things nail art

How did it feel when you were announced the winner of the NailFile Tropical Paradise Nail Design Competition? I was so super excited! Particularly as I really invested a lot of time in my Tropical theme set and felt my entry was very unique and also personal to my own experiences.

painted nail art, especially working with different products to create 3D elements and looks. I feel nail art is so unique to each technician and never needs to be perfect, it just needs to be art.

Why do you think it’s important to take part in nail art competitions?

You also placed 3rd in NailFile’s Roaring Twenties competition – obviously nail art is something that you not only excel at but really enjoy – please comment. Yes, I really do enjoy hand

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Competitions test your skills and give you the opportunity to compete with the best in the industry. You learn with each entry and grow in your field. With each entry I have been amazed at what I ended up achieving.

How do you go about designing your nails for themed competitions?

I usually start with a draft on paper, setting out my designs per nail and how I would go about to achieve them. Then, I start with my 3D elements, which takes up most of the time. Each nail colour and design has been decided on before I start working with my products. I must say that I do

Competitions test your skills and give you the opportunity to compete with the best in the industry. prefer working on a live model for themed nail art entries, as opposed to tips. My step by step presentation is done last.

Have you competed in any live nail competitions? Yes, I have. My very first live competition was in 2005 at

57 stunning nail art, as well as highly qualified and talented technicians.

Are there any overseas nail artists whose work you follow? I follow Natalia Larina from Slowianka Nails. Her work is perfect every time. I also follow Nunii Torres.

Do you have your own salon?

Yes I do, I am based in Nelspruit, Mpumalanga. I currently share space with a Wellness Centre, situated in the heart of Nelspruit, which offers all the latest beauty, wellness and hair treatments as well.

For how long have you been a nail tech? I qualified as a Gel Nail Technician in July 2005 and have been doing nails full time since then. My first qualification was with Bio Sculpture, thereafter I trained in

When you are asked by your clients to create nail art, where do you get your inspiration from? I usually try to match the colour with the art. If I know the client well, I will choose something that suits her personality.

Why do you think nail art is so big in the beauty industry?

Q&A

Professional Beauty, where I placed 3rd with a set of Gel Tips. I competed again in 2008, where I placed 2nd with Gel Sculptures. In 2011, I placed 1st with Gel Sculptures; in 2012, 2nd in Gel Professionals and in 2013, I placed 1st in Masters Gel Sculpting. I also received 1st place at the Bio Sculpture Expo for a themed nail art set in 2019.

Word of mouth has always been my best means of getting new clients. Even during this difficult time, I still got new clients in through word of mouth.

numerous products and systems, including LCN and Young Nails.

How have you managed to cope with the market downturn caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and lockdown? Word of mouth has always been my best means of getting new clients. Even during this difficult time, I still got new clients in through word of mouth. Offering a professional service with the best products definitely made a difference as well. I also assisted clients with home care advice during lockdown, while our salons were still closed.

What is your customer service policy? Treating each and every client with the same respect and offering the best professional and hygienic service at all times. I concentrate on achieving neatly applied products, taking time into consideration and giving the best home care advice throughout a service. To me, natural nail health is of utmost importance.

I think nail art is a way for a lot of women to express themselves. With social media and the skills available from nail technicians, it is so much easier to be super creative. From your favourite pup on your nails, to a loved one’s name, clients can personalise their nails all the time.

How do you think South Africa’s level of nail art compares to overseas? I do think we compete very well in the industry, overseas as well as locally. We have top South African brands to create the most

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Professional Beauty SA, March 2021

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