Professional Beauty Sept 2020 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

In this issue... Managing your salon during a crisis September 2020 | probeauty.co.za

Vitamin-based skincare Body contouring devices

In this issue... Regulars

Opinion

6 Industry news

28 Sister act

Local and international news

36 Crowning glory What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

48 In the market All the latest launches

Business 11 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

14 Distributing cosmetics in the Canadian market Compliance and regulations

16 The client service journey Selling an experience

Do we support each other enough?

Make-up 29 Beauty under lockdown Make-up artist shares his story

Features 32 Feeding the skin Vitamin-based skincare

38 Sunny side up Product focus – sun protection

19 Pivoting to a shared economy 40 A fair prospect Peer-to-peer interaction

20 Management during a crisis Tough changes and decisions

Spa Focus 22 A comprehensive, genderspecific facility Dolce Vita BeautyCentre

Managing clients’ expectations

42 Working on the silhouette Body contouring devices

Aesthetic Medicine 46 Naturally speaking Using threads for lip augmentation

Interview

Nails

26 Talking to…Ursula Volbrecht

49 NailFile

MD of DermaFix

Issue 35

20 online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

hey say that patience is a virtue and it is certainly something we need as the industry slowly but surely starts to rebuild itself following the catastrophic effects of the COVID-19 national lockdown and continuing pandemic. In our lead story, we include feedback from a number of suppliers about how they have found business since salons were allowed to offer treatments again, as from late June. Generally, business seems to have got off to a slow start, given that some clients are anxious about re-entering the salon environment, and given that salons have had to reduce the number of clients they can book on a daily basis so as to adhere to social distancing regulations and the enhanced new hygiene & safety protocols. However, some suppliers have noted very good sales, while others are seeing a definite pick-up in demand as we head into the Spring / Summer months. All of this is positive news, so it might be fair to say that the outlook for the future is cautiously optimistic. The extremely challenging situation the industry finds itself in at the moment could definitely be defined as a crisis, so for that reason we include a very useful article on how to manage your business during such a time. Still on the subject of running a beauty business, we have another article that reiterates the importance of selling an entire experience to your customers, rather than just a service. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

incorporating

In this issue... Managing your salon during a crisis September 2020 | probeauty.co.za

Vitamin-based skincare Body contouring devices

Cover source: Bio Sculpture Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd

Publisher Mark Moloney

mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

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Commercial Director Philip Woods

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Alois Sajanga

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Marketing Manager Stacey Platt

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Operations Executive Obey Dube

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Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman

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Sales Executive Ruby Manning

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Marketing Assistants Starr Mabona Natasha Chisese

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Subscriptions & Data Capture info@probeauty.co.za Accountant Letitia Rabie

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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

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Why you need DermaScan technology in your practice An ultrasound skin scanner that provides accurate imaging of the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure up to a depth of 7mm

hen the DermaScan concept was theorised by Danish Dermatologist, Professor Jørgen Serup, the scope was to provide a non-invasive tool for assessment of skin tumors, especially the invasion depth of malignant melanomas. Flemming K. Christensen, the CEO and founder of Beauté Pacifique Medical Skin Care, was a key team member at Cortex Technology where the DermaScan was developed with the idea to be introduced worldwide as a new high tech medical instrument for Dermatology. Says Christensen: “I was entrusted with the responsibility of transferring state of the art brain scanning technology between MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) in Boston and Denmark and for the first time, it became possible to diagnose Alzheimer’s Disease. Patients that were brought to me in ambulances were already terminal and this is where my deep desire and passion for helping people was tempered.” The DermaScan became a very useful tool for investigating pathological conditions in the skin in vivo and it was quickly realised that there was a lot to learn from scanning both diseased and healthy skin. It was striking to see how clearly the different stages of skin ageing or damage could be seen objectively at a glance by the scanner’s visualization of the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure up to 7mm deep.

Beauté Pacifique is born Christensen pondered the following question – could skin care products be found that were effective enough to reverse both ageing and sundamage? “No such products with published research could be found,” he continues, “and so I established Beauté Pacifique with exactly this scope – to objectively show improvements in skin that were visible not only in the mirror, but also by an ultrasound scanner, namely the DermaScan. More than one million in-clinic ultrasound-scannings have now been performed at Beauté Pacifique centres around the world that show real improvements on the skin by comparing images taken before and after in-clinic and home care treatment.”

Fourth generation technology Inspiration and knowledge from the newest research in the medical industry was the source of the DermaScan technological innovation and now, four generations later, the DermaScan is the leading dermatological diagnostic instruments available. The DermaScan is able to display Beauté Pacifique’s Patented active ingredient penetration system that is capable of penetrating and delivering anti-ageing actives to the deepest part of the skin.

Unique ingredient cocktails, developed by Dermatologists using the latest complex compositions of ingredients, are made in our Denmark facility. This is where we manufacture Pharmaceuticals under EU Pharmaceutical regulations – thus Beauté Pacifique skin care products are medical grade, with quality, standards and values at the highest international level.

Published study The Beauté Pacifique penetration system is proven in an independent double blinded, placebo-controlled Danish study, carried out by Professor Peter Bjerring at the Dermatological department at Marselisborg Hospital, verified by the Department of Pharmacy, and published in the European Dermatology Journal. Beauté Pacifique is the perfect collaboration between medical science and the skin expert. Try our products for yourself. Our gift to you: 4 weeks of professional skin treatment at only R299! www.beaute-pacifique.com For Medical and Skin experts who Expect More from their Skin Care.

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Sponsored Article

6 News

News Beauty industry rebuilds post lockdown Feedback from beauty suppliers indicates that business, post lockdown, is starting to pick up after a slow start. Despite reports that some salons have closed as a result of the COVID-19 lockdown, Jacoline Wentzel of The Spa Warehouse has found more new salons opening than closing. She explains: “As therapists are losing their jobs in the bigger salons and spas, they are opening their own smaller establishments. “In terms of our sales, July was a little slow, but August is a lot busier as the industry is slowly but surely opening up and the sun is coming out.” Lea Castro of Looking Good LCN says that while sales are lower by approximately 30% compared to the same last year, her team remains optimistic. “All of our top salons are still trading countrywide,” she notes. A RegimA distributor reports that sales from May to August were down by 20% to 40%, but with a steady improvement since then. Retail product sales have recovered far better than salon products. Exclusive Beauty Solutions, distributor of Anesi and CND, found business very slow immediately post lockdown. “Sales are at least 50% less than normal and some of our stockists have closed,” says MD Dalize Havenga. “However, sales are gradually picking up although salons are only buying what they need.”

Upswing SIX Skincare and Spalicious have gained an abundance of new brand partners post lockdown. Says SIX and Spalicious founder, Marisa Dimitriadis: “SIX Skincare has welcomed 10 new stockists, Spalicious seven new stockists and SIX Aesthetix has gained seven new stockists in total, all in the space of six weeks.” Wayne La Grange of Blue Sky International, incorporating the online @ probeauty.co.za

Beauté Pacifique, RapidLash and RapidBrow brands, comments: “There was huge excitement as we opened with great sales, which was followed by a dip but we got back to normal business in August. Our expectation is that we’re through the worst in our business year. We have already seen a 35% increase in sales versus July 2020.” SKNlogic has experienced an increase in sales of over 20% for June and July. Says Natasha Delport: “We have continuously had sales since May, as we were helping salons retail remotely. Sales traditionally increase in September, so we’re hoping to see the same increase this year.”

Prices RégimA has not increased prices, despite huge increases from most raw materials and packaging suppliers. Says Jacqui Faucitt: “We usually have an annual price increase on 1 July, but have waivered this until further notice.” Exclusive Beauty Solutions also has not increased prices, notwithstanding shipping prices having gone up. “It’s challenging because, realistically, we should increase our prices but we are apprehensive of losing clients,” states Havenga. A price increase will be the last resort for Looking Good

LCN. Castro explains: “It would damage our business critically. We are still able to absorb most of the additional costs incurred over this period, as well as the current exchange rates.” SKNlogic will, as far as possible, absorb the losses of April’s hard lockdown without carrying it onto clients.

Consumer trends Business patterns post lockdown seem to have evoked a better inner awareness and introspection of the lifestyles that people in general were living prelockdown. So says Karen Ellithorne, distributor of H2Glow, Milk Solutions and Jessica Cosmetics. “People are wanting to try different treatment modalities that will help them improve their appearance and body health, with a better long term vision as opposed to instant gratification. “This has created an opportunity for beauty business owners to change structures and relook at the way they have been running their business.” SKNlogic’s Delport adds: “Salons are looking to offering clients something new that they were not offering before, probably to set themselves apart from competitors.”

The Imbalie Beauty Group has launched a Customer Services Division (CSD) to target new customers and stimulate growth for its salons. “Our new CSD will reach those people who do not yet visit our Placecol Skin Care Clinics, Perfect 10 Nail & Body Studios and Dream Nails Beauty salons, or who are currently not inclined to visit a salon due to COVID-19 related reasons, but need the unique beauty and wellness solutions that our premium salon products offer,” explains Imbalie Beauty CEO, Esna Colyn. The CSD will bring premium, salon quality products to customers in the comfort of their own homes. She continues: “CSD customers will also be referred to our salons for treatments and services. We are encouraging our franchise partners to start Growth Teams as part of their business. This

would be a group of women who we empower and who work in the community around the salon on the CS basis. Because they are affiliated to and managed by the franchisee, the commission earned from the sales of this group creates an extra revenue stream, plus referrals for the salon.” Colyn notes that the poor economic conditions brought on by the effect of COVID-19 and severe landlord issues has caused some Imablie franchisees to close their doors. “It is Imbalie’s sincerest desire to keep the franchisees who are affected in this way as part of our group and our family. The CSD offers an ideal opportunity for an affected franchisee to start a small CSD practice, plus build a group of her own. In this way she will be able to empower other women, earn an income and remain part of Imbalie.

Environ supports big cat sanctuary

South African skincare brand, Environ, has partnered with Love Lions Alive Sanctuary in Swinburne, Free State, to support the annual cost of vitamin A supplementation for its lions. Lions kept in a sanctuary require daily vitamin A supplements, or they risk developing a potentially deadly vitamin A deficiency, called Hypovitaminosis A, which can lead to blindness, convulsion, limb paresis, a weakened immune system and death. Says Environ’s chairman and CEO, Val Carstens: “Vitamin A is at the heart of our business, and because we understand the wellness benefits of this vitamin, we’ve decided to show our support for this iconic South African animal.”

News

Imbalie launches new division “After seeing the detrimental effects of COVID-19 for so many, we recognised that it was essential for the group to find a way of creating new income opportunities and therefore assist in stimulating our South African economy. We also had to acknowledge that the market place has changed drastically and that it was our group’s responsibility to find new ways to enable customers to easily connect and do business with us. This is our way of making a positive change in the world through improvement and empowerment, as well as increasing the esteem of all.” The launch of the CSD is regarded as a momentous occasion for the Imbalie Beauty Group, as this is also the same year in which Placecol, its much-loved, trusted and awardwinning South African skincare brand, turns 40.

News

How day spas are coping post lockdown Taking steps to mitigate crossinfection between guests and therapists, frequent deep cleaning of premises, and dealing with guest and staff anxiety are paramount during the COVID-19 pandemic. This is according to a recent Professional Beauty webinar that featured Engela Lanie Meiring of All Wellness Spa and Ayesha Rajah of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa. All Wellness Spa reopened at the beginning of July. Said Meiring: “Despite the fact that we’ve had a lot of interest from clients, we were 25% down on revenue compared to the same time last year. However, taking everything into account and the fact that July is the middle of winter, that percentage is not too bad. “We still perform most of the services on our menu but we do them differently and limit our larger groups to six people at a time. Consequently, we can’t take in the full amount of guests that we used to. But we’ve been lucky in that we haven’t had many cancellations and we definitely saw bookings picking up in August – Women’s Month.”

Rollercoaster

Anxiety

Rajah noted that in terms of business, her reopening journey has been something of a rollercoaster ride. She continued: “In our first week we had a bridal package who brought in their own drink and food and literally didn’t want to leave the spa. We put them on the pool deck, observing social distancing regulations. These guests told us they found the spa experience very beneficial from an emotional wellbeing point of view and couldn’t wait to come back. “August has been very tough, with lots of COVID-related cancellations, where clients phone us and tell us they have are experiencing flu-like symptoms, so we ask them not to come in. However, the warmer the weather gets, the more our spa will become booked for hair removal treatments.”

Meiring reported that in terms of the anxiety guests may feel about entering the spa environment, some clients are very anxious, while others are so relaxed that they have to be reminded to wear masks and to observe the enhanced hygiene & safety protocols. “Some guests ask therapists to wear gloves during massage treatments, while others don’t. We are quite flexible in terms of making clients feel comfortable, while taking the necessary precautions,” she explained. Communication with consumers is key, according to Rajah. “You have to instill faith in them and keep reassuring them that your staff is fully trained, that we are using PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), and that we are observing all hygiene protocols.”

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Safety measures Rajah has taken steps at Urban Bliss Wellness Spa to mitigate cross-infection between staff and guests. “To this end, we book only a single client per day per room and we deep clean before and after each client. Our clients don’t even enter the spa with their own shoes – they are given a set of slippers at the door. They are asked to leave as much of their belongings as possible in the car. I do add a small COVID surcharge to cover the PPE and cleaning costs. Our therapists wear surgical masks and visors that are changed frequently.’ Meiring implements two hours of deep cleaning and fogging to ensure everything is cleaned after clients. Clients are encouraged to wear their masks as much as possible, including during hand and foot treatments.

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News

Beauté Pacifique launches 3rd flagship in SA Skinlogic Smart Skin Centre in George, Garden Route, headed by Dr Herman Van Rooyen, has become the third flagship in South Africa of Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique. Says Wayne La Grange, CEO of Beauté Pacifique Africa: “‘We are so excited to be in partnership with Dr Van Rooyen. He is not only an aesthetic expert, but is also actively involved in the upskilling of other medical practitioners in various aesthetics disciplines. This is the perfect collaboration for Beauté Pacifique, as we expand rapidly across South Africa in our support of the medical aesthetics sector.” Van Rooyen adds: “‘At Skinlogic, our team understands that we live in a highly demanding, image conscious world where people want to look and feel their best despite everyday pressures. Skinlogic has long been a trusted

aesthetic centre of excellence in George, consistently delivering outstanding service and results.

“We enhance innate beauty with precision and expertise in order to get real, yet natural-looking results.”

Dermalogica preps for ‘the new next’ Former Dermalogica SA CEO, Cherie ten Hope, has resumed her position with the company after three years, taking over from Teresa Mordoh. Says Ten Hope: “I am delighted to be back in the saddle as CEO for Dermalogica SA. After 25 years with Dermalogica, I remain passionate and excited about our brand, our tribe, our industry and our customers who have made Dermalogica their preferred choice. “This is a time of much challenge, disruption and change but also huge opportunity. It’s an extraordinary time to be in business and we remain committed to our global vision of changing skins and ultimately, changing lives.” Ten Hope was one of the presenters at Dermalogica SA’s recent first ever virtual launch and press party, which saw the release of two new products, Retinol Clearing Oil and Invisible Physical Defence SPF30.

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Dermalogica founder, Jane Wurwand, spoke at the event, saying: “Our business is based on human connection, so when we are separated from that, as during the COVID-19 lockdown, it feels odd. If you think back to 1956, to the Women’s March in Pretoria against the apartheid pass laws, they said: ‘When you have touched a woman, you have touched a rock.’ Well, we are rocks to our clients – steady, steadfast and solid. So, when we come through this current challenging situation to what we call, ‘the new next’ – I don’t refer to it as ‘the new normal’ as there is nothing normal about it – Dermalogica will be there. We are working hard to ensure that our ‘new next’ will be as steady as a rock.” Ten Hope noted that the five months of quarantine in South Africa had been a rollercoaster ride. “At the beginning of lockdown, we were earmarked as an industry that was only meant to open at Level 1. So we joined

forces with all the other product houses and industry bodies and lobbied government to be allowed to open for retail on 1 May. And we carried on lobbying until salons were allowed to open in late June. “As a leading brand we are bold and brave and it’s up to us to make the most of what is around us and to embrace the changes we are being pushed into. The beauty industry is more flexible and resilient than we realise.”

Business Tips

ask Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

I’m looking for an effective method of sanitising my salon. I’ve heard that ultraviolet light can do this, but how does it actually work? As more businesses reopen, salons and clinics need to consider enhanced measures to clean their facilities and equipment, as well as protect their clients and staff. One method involves using ultraviolet (UV) light to sanitise the air, surfaces and equipment in your salon. Disinfecting with UV light is widely used in hospitals and larger medical facilities, but now salons are also adopting the technology. We all know or have heard of the value and effect of UV rays over the years and especially in professions such as ours, yet we forget too soon what a vital role it can play in protecting premises, work stations and uniforms. During the COVID-19 pandemic, we have closed off a cubicle at The Mask (my skin and body clinic) specifically for our UVC lamp to sanitise our staff clothing, handbags and the salon linen. We also use the light for our coats and accessories. So, we hang the items in the cubicle on a clothing rail, or over a bench, then we set the UVC

unit for 15 to 20 minutes by remote control. During this time, no-one is allowed to enter the cubicle while the UVC unit is on.

Fragile virus One good thing about the coronavirus is that it is a very fragile virus. This is because it has a layer of lipids – a fatty layer that coats the virus itself – and that layer is very easily disrupted. The UV light, as well as cleaning products like soap and disinfectants, can destroy this layer, causing the virus to degrade and die. While the light can be used for multiple applications, our primary purpose at The Mask is as a disinfection process that inactivates micro-organisms without chemicals, very efficiently and effectively. There are different sizes and types of equipment available but you should insist on the UVC category and ensure it is supplied by a reputable company. Some clinics/ salons move the unit from

cubicle to cubicle for 15 minutes (or for a longer period depending on area). The professional needs to ensure that the unit is used in a confined space where humans/ animals are not exposed, as damage can be caused to eyes and skin if exposure is prolonged. UVC Units have low capital and operational costs, are environmentally friendly, easy to operate and maintain, and are harmless to the items being sanitised. The UVC light is a primary germ-killer in the natural environment and it makes sense that it is used in many health practices and hospitals where pathogens abound.

Helene Bramwell is the owner of The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg. Bramwell has been closely associated with the beauty profession in South Africa and abroad since 1966. She is a CIDESCO Gold Medallist; a SAIHBTH Founder Member and Honorary fellow; as well as the recipient of three President Awards recognising her dedication to the profession.

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Business Tips

What are the benefits of magnesium for my client’s health and skin? Magnesium is a structural element of the blood, bones, muscles and organs. As a coenzyme that catalyses hundreds of biochemical processes throughout the body, it is essential for a myriad of chemical reactions, the production and transport of energy, synthesis of protein, transmission of nerve signals, muscle function, healthy DNA and more. Studies show that many people in developed countries are magnesium deficient due to the prevalence of stress in our lives. A massive epidemiological study showed that more than 1 million people across nine countries who consumed the most magnesium tested out with a 10 percent lower risk of coronary heart disease, a 12 percent lower stroke risk and a 26 percent lower risk of type 2 diabetes. online @ probeauty.co.za

Why are we so deficient? Today’s 24/7 connectivity, over stimulation, stress, sensory overload, chemical exposures, lack of sleep, poor nutrition, too much sugar, alcohol and afternoon espressos to keep us going, drain our vitality, strength and immunity and leach minerals out of our system, especially magnesium. As the body fatigues, acidic waste builds up in the tissues. This acidic waste accumulation causes congestion and eventually breakdown of the tissues and organs. The body must also constantly take minerals from the structure of the connective tissue, bones and teeth to maintain an alkaline condition of the tissue fluids.

How do I know if I’m getting enough magnesium? A magnesium deficiency is likely

if you have anxiety, headaches, muscle cramps or twitches, such as leg cramps or eyelid twitches, tremors, fatigue, depression, insomnia, PMS or menstrual cramps and some skin conditions. Magnesium is one of the most versatile minerals in the body, with a wide range of effects on almost all systems of the body. Deficiency in magnesium is implicated in a wide variety of major health challenges. Arteriosclerosis, cardiac arrhythmias, fibromyalgia, diabetes, migraines and osteoporosis may result from a long-term magnesium deficiency. If you take a diuretic for high blood pressure, or medications for acid reflux, you need to restore magnesium levels.

Magnesium supplementation Magnesium is part of the chlorophyll molecule found in green vegetables, as well as various nuts and grains, but for most people supplementation is necessary because with the modern lifestyle, consumption of the magnesium-rich foods doesn’t seem to compensate for the physiological need. One problem with magnesium supplementation is that so much of it is eliminated in the bowel. In fact, magnesium sulfate is used as a laxative. Magnesium hydroxide is used as an antacid. These forms of magnesium are not useful for supplementing the blood and tissues. Amino acids can help magnesium cross from the gut into the blood stream, but in general it is difficult to supply sufficient magnesium through oral supplementation. For this reason, it is helpful to supplement magnesium also transdermally. It could be the most important thing you do for your health, longevity and quality of life.

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Transdermal magnesium People have used minerals like magnesium transdermally for thousands of years. Even though humans have been using the skin as a direct pathway into the body for treatment for centuries, only recently have we begun to understand the science behind it. Magnesium absorption has been studied under various experimental conditions. Good transdermal magnesium is easily absorbed by the skin. If molecules are small enough, they can slip through the skin. A molecule smaller than 500 Daltons, can drift through the stratum corneum, the outer layer of the skin – the 500 Dalton rule. Magnesium Chloride ions are significantly smaller than 500 Daltons, at an atomic mass of just 24 Daltons. PB

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Business Tips

Distributing cosmetics in the Canadian market

In the second of a two-part series on how to stay compliant on your way into the global cosmetics market, TJAĹ A GRUM looks at cosmetic regulations in Canada.

osmetic products sold in Canada are regulated by Health Canada. They must comply with the requirements of the Food and Drugs Act, Cosmetic Regulations and Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act. In addition, the Canadian Environmental Protection Act may apply to any chemicals found in cosmetics. Canada has its own definition of a cosmetic product, which, together with cosmetic claims, has to be considered when assessing whether a product is a cosmetic product or not. The Food and Drugs act defines a cosmetic as: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;any substance or mixture of substances, manufactured, sold or represented for use in cleansing, improving or altering the complexion, skin, hair or teeth and includes deodorants and perfumesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

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Canada has its own definition of a cosmetic product, which, together with cosmetic claims, has to be considered when assessing whether a product is a cosmetic product or not. This includes handmade cosmetics sold at craft sales or home-based businesses and products used by professionals, as well as bulk institutional products (e.g. hand soap in schools). Many products may look like cosmetics at first, but when looking closer, do not comply with the whole definition of a cosmetic in Canada. For example, sunscreens and skin

whitening products are classified as drugs in Canada, unlike in the EU, where these kinds of products are cosmetics.

Product composition and safety All products sold in Canada have to be safe for use, but the regulation does not set out exactly how the safety of the products should be proven. Products have to be manufactured, prepared, preserved, packed and stored under clean conditions. Manufacturers are also encouraged to follow the Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs), e.g. ISO 22716 standard. Health Canada also has the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist, which includes a list of prohibited substances and a list of restricted substances for use in cosmetics. In order to ensure the safety of

Business Tips

the product formulation, it is important to check that your formulation is free from any banned substances, or in the case where it contains restricted ingredients, it must be in line with the conditions set out by Health Canada. The Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist also includes any warnings that need to be displayed on the product, in case it contains certain ingredients that are restricted for use in cosmetics.

Labelling and claims Before a product is placed on the Canadian market, it is important to make sure that the labelling of the product is compliant. Canadian regulation has rules on where certain information has to appear on the label. It is also important to note that some information listed on the label has to appear both in English and French. Information that needs to appear on the principal display panel (PDP), as in the surface that is visible under customary conditions of sale includes: Product identity (unless it is obvious): the common or generic name of the cosmetic or a statement of a cosmetic’s function has to appear both in English and French. Net quantity (in metric units). It is important to add that there needs to be a space between the number and the metric symbol or word. If written in words, it has to appear both in English and French.

Health Canada also has the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist, which includes a list of prohibited substances and a list of restricted substances for use in cosmetics. Other information that needs to appear on the label: Name and address of the manufacturer/ Canadian dealer: May appear in English, French or both. Avoidable hazards and cautions: If any avoidable hazards are associated with the use of a product, the label must include warnings on how to use the product to eliminate the risk (instructions for use, cautions, symbols etc.) Warnings have to appear both in English and French. Ingredient list: Ingredients with the concentration above 1% have to be listed in descending order of predominance. Ingredients with a concentration below 1% can be listed in any order after those with a concentration above 1%. Fragrances or flavours have to be listed using the words ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. Colouring agents should be listed as CI numbers of colour names (formerly FD&C names). Ingredients that are listed in the schedule of the Cosmetic Regulations (Appendix 1) can be listed by their EU trivial names or by the appropriate English and French equivalents, or all three terms may be used together. As we mentioned before in previous articles, cosmetic claims are also an

important factor to consider. Claims have to be accurate and not misleading. A product can easily be classified as a drug if claims exceed the cosmetic product definition – the use of so-called ‘therapeutic’ claims. Unlike the EU, Canada allows the use of ‘free from’ claims as well as ‘cruelty-free’ claims.

Product notification The last step in the cosmetic product registration process is product notification. In Canada, cosmetics products have to be notified within 10 days after they are first sold in Canada. Notification of cosmetics can be done by manufacturers, importers or a notifier acting on behalf of the manufacturer or importer, through the filling of the Cosmetic Notification Form (CFN). Information that has to be provided on the CFN includes product identity, date of the first sale in Canada, product function and form, product ingredients and their concentration, the contact information of the manufacturer/ importer/ distributor and additional documents and pictures for certain products. Failure to notify the product may result in a product being denied into Canada, or removed from sale. PB Tjaša Grum has a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and a Master’s degree in Biochemistry from the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia. She is a Regulatory Consultant at CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd, which offers regulatory and testing services for cosmetic products. tjasa@ceway.eu

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Business Tips

client The

service journey

Beauty business expert, LIZ MCKEON, asks salons whether they are selling an experience, or selling a service?

lot of spas and salons talk about the guest journey and rightly so. Getting this crucial process right is an essential part of business management, as it focuses squarely on the customer experience in your salon. We have to conduct all business planning from the client’s point of view, examining every single ‘touch-point’ they have with your business. In salon management, it is amazing how different it looks when seeing it through the client’s eyes. When learning how to manage a salon business, it is important to keep your customer in mind. Repeat customers is the number one way to make money in a beauty business, so good customer experiences are the best competitive advantage of a salon.

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Think like a client. It’s amazing how different your salon looks when you are seeing it through the client’s eyes.

the client’s point of view. I have created a guide below with an introduction to customer service and a checklist to run through with some clear and concise questions which act as prompts. Do this today to help ensure that your customer is number one and has the very best experience when visiting your salon or spa.

What is customer service? Most people think that the journey begins when the guest walks through to door. It begins way before that. From the moment they first connect with your business via the internet (whether your website or booking service) or by phone. The guest journey requires a detailed examination of customer service. In order to determine whether you are winning (or could do with some improvement), you need to conduct a little audit from

Customer service is the service provided to our customers before, during and after purchasing and using goods and services. “A customer is the most important visitor on our premises. He is not dependent on us. We are dependent on him. He is not an interruption in our work. He is the purpose of it. We are not doing him a favour by serving him. He is giving us a favour by giving us an opportunity to do so.” – Mahatma Ghandi

Repeat business is the number one way to make money in a beauty business, so good customer experiences are the best competitive advantage of a salon.

Questions to ask yourself 1. What experience do you hope clients will have? 2. What is the actual process? 3. What is the process of making sure they are happy?

Guide 1. Phone Is the phone answered quickly, accurately and professionally? Is the booking process easy and smooth? Are enquiries answered satisfactorily and converted to bookings? 2. When the client shows up What is your salon meet and greet procedure? Is there a friendly atmosphere in reception? 3. Consultation Is the consultation process carried out correctly, exploring lifestyle, stress levels, personal

needs and client concerns? Does the therapist collect enough information to enable her to do a highly effective treatment? Or, are clients details recorded at all? 4. Timing Are services running on time? 5. The beauty therapist Is she/he well-presented and well groomed? Wearing your company uniform with pride and perfection? Smiling? Polite and mannerly? Does she call the client by name? Can she offer opinions and give recommendations? Are your staff attentive? 6. The Service Is the treatment room, couch and trolley perfectly ready and laid out? Does the therapist explain the procedure thoroughly to the client? Hangers for clothes? Container for jewelry? Quality material and products used? Does the therapist give 100% attention to the treatment and to the client? When the treatment is finished, what happens? 7. Wrap-Up Is the client escorted back to reception? Is the client encouraged to rebook? Are the recommended products stylishly wrapped and placed in one of your luxury carrier bags? And, are they escorted to the door, when payment transaction is completed?

By doing this, you increase your chances of getting the following results: 1. More leads from advertising. 2. Capitalisation on footfall, by making the most of the clients coming through your salon. 3. By providing a more memorable experience, you create better word of mouth opportunities – still the most effective form of advertising.

Think like a client. It’s amazing how different your salon looks when you are seeing it through the client’s eyes. This changes your perception and is useful to do on a regular basis, as it will help to increase the appeal of your salon to clients, resulting in repeat customers and an increase in beauty retail. Ask yourself the following two questions: ‘How professional does my salon appear to my client?’ and ‘Would I like to come to it?’ PB

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer & mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. liz@lizmckeon.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

shared economy Pivoting to a

oping with the fallout of the COVID-19 lockdown and pandemic has forced us to learn how to adapt and how to deal with the hand dealt to us. This year has seen some people develop a skillset and shine through, while for others, 2020 has caused anxiety and confusion. Typically, a business pivot is used to describe changing a business after hardship and the need for a recovery or SOS plan. However, the pivot I am referring to is the ability to stop, rethink, refocus and change up your offering very quickly to speak to the current demand and ascertain what is possible in unusual circumstances.

Leveraging resources Pivoting towards the above often means leveraging resources, networks and contacts that one may not have leveraged before, due to the ‘personality of our industry’. The beauty industry has this selfcentered personality in that we do not leverage a shared economy for fear of someone else stealing our clients, using our ideas, or copying our strategies.

Beauty professionals have all learnt a lot in 2020, having developed a survive or quit altogether mentality, writes LAUREN GIBSON.

A business pivot is used to describe changing a business after hardship and the need for a recovery or SOS plan. But we forget the most important aspect of our industry – we provide a service and it is the customer who always decides. They decide who to go to for treatments (so your salon needs the best therapists); which brand to use for their beauty concerns (so you need a variety of brands to attract different consumers); and whether or not they return (so you need the best customer service in the business). Our job is to offer the best value to the customer, so that they do not have to choose someone else.

Peer-to-peer interaction A shared economy is typically described as a peer-to-peer interaction, whereby information, services and even high-level strategy is shared among different businesses or people to ensure success and growth of the whole, versus the individual. This allows the industry to stand together, versus allowing the strong to thrive and the

weak to simmer off. Not only does this allow more creative ideas, but a sharing economy allows one to save costs and lower your carbon footprint.

Examples Some Ideas of a shared economy in our industry could be the following: Brands coming together to brainstorm ways to support salon owners in hard times. Different salon owners coming together and merging their salons under one roof while trading as two separate businesses (this saves expenses and allows referrals if one therapist is busy). Opening a shared supplier account (for brands or equipment) to lower costs and expenses. Enjoy the pivot and embrace the shared economy. No-one likes to change but right now it’s the only thing that remains constant. PB

Lauren Gibson has over 15 years’ experience in the professional skincare industry, having been in strategy and management for six years with Dermalogica. Gibson has since completed her PG Diploma in Management Practice with UCT GSB. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

Management during a

crisis

ow you decide to manage your business during a crisis will determine whether your business will survive it. I would like to share with you 10 areas of management that need to be looked at carefully that detail some serious changes and decisions that need to be made during crisis times.

Business plan It is critical to review your business plan during a crisis. If you’ve never had a business plan before, now is the time to sit down and write it, and if you do have one, then review it. Look at where you are in comparison to the rest of the

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It’s challenging enough to manage a business at the best of times, however management during a crisis is a different ball game altogether, writes MARISA DIMITRIADIS.

industry and your competitors and if you are not moving in the same direction and are getting left behind, it’s time to pivot so you get back on track.

Stock / inventory

The best time to introduce new brands and stock items is during a crisis. Look for brands that fit the crisis criteria and which do the following: • Boost profit – look specifically for higher profit margins. • Create curiosity – is there an interesting story behind the brand and products? Do they have a strong social initiative and are they focused on reducing the carbon footprint? • Innovate – during a crisis

consumers like to see anything new that helps them. • Support you as a business better – think about which brands or products or service providers stood out during crisis times and supported the industry. That is who you need to partner with, because it’s not only during the good times that you need your brand partner, but more so during the tough times.

Staff

There are a few areas to focus on when managing staff during a crisis. First of all, understand that YOU are in control of managing the energy transference of your team. It is critical to have a wellness initiative running at all times, even if it is only

a small, simple initiative. Secondly, training is more important than ever on a daily and weekly basis. Daily can take place in the form of a ‘product of the day’ and weekly can be in the form of an SOP (Standard Operational Procedures), but training has to be scheduled in the diary and must happen. Ensure to provide safe feedback channels for your team so that they feel comfortable enough to speak to you and provide information. And lastly, throw out all your old incentive plans because new goals and needs require different incentives to get your team to meet the requirements of the business. Team up with your brand partners and implement an incentive that is going to give you the results you need.

Clients

Call at least one client per day, every single day. Ask questions, get feedback, ask opinions and find out how they are doing. But this needs to happen with an actual phone call, not a message or email. And this phone call must be from you the owner, or the manager, not the receptionist or therapist.

Prepare Preparation is vital at any time but more so during a crisis. Chasing problems and putting out fires is only going to drain your energy. If you are prepared for the day, for the week and for the month and know exactly what you are doing, managing during a crisis can turn into a success story you can tell forever. Time blocking has never been so critical.

Unmet market needs

Ask yourself some very crucial questions. What market needs did you previously fill that have now gone away? What are the new market needs that you can fill? What opportunities are out there now that there is a crisis? What forced innovations are you going to keep and make part of your business? What will you eliminate permanently?

Business Tips

Cut one or two key staff members

These questions are hard to answer but if you give yourself time to sit down and really analyse them, you will discover your pivot and how your business needs to change course to get to the same destination.

Make a noise about your quality and service

Tell clients about the excellent quality of the products you are using on them. Explain to them how you will not cut down on the cost of goods and compromise quality, but rather offer better quality. Tell your clients how you are training your team to upgrade their service delivery skills and ask for their input so they feel they are helping you. This makes clients feel like they are ‘in’ on your business.

This is a tough one but understand that either one or two of your ‘change blockers’ must go, or your whole business will go. It is time to focus on the staff that will do anything, work day and night, that will commit to learning more and delivering better service than ever before. The staff that complain and want more and more but are willing to give less and less, must go. Don’t be held ransom by staff that you feel you cannot do without. You can and you will be better off without them in the long run. During a crisis letting go of staff is the most difficult thing to do because everyone is in need, but you must make careful decisions for the rest of your team and for your entire business.

What actions are you prepared to take right now?

10 8 Create a ‘change’ story and tell the world

People want to hear stories about how businesses have changed and what they are doing differently to survive the crisis. So find your ‘change’, create a beautiful story and tell the world. For instance, if you have chosen to begin your online journey, are you making a noise about it?

Consider carefully what you will commit to doing from the list above and ask yourself what you are willing to sacrifice to ensure your business survives and is managed correctly. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

gender -specific

A COMPREHENSIVE,

FACILITY

JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to KYM STAFFORD, owner of Dolce Vita Beauty Centre in Randpark Ridge, about how her business model of an exclusive ladies only spa that offers aesthetic treatments and hairdressing services has clearly paid off.

t age 29, Kym Stafford is fairly young to be the owner a spa business but credits this to an entrepreneurial mind set and identifying a gap in the market for a one-stopshop ladies only salon and spa. “When the opportunity arose to open my own beauty business, I grabbed it with both hands and never looked back,” she says. “Originally, when Dolce Vita Beauty Centre first opened in August 2012 in Greenside, Johannesburg, we rented a small space from a busy hair salon where we concentrated on skin and body treatments. After about three years, we had built up our clientele and needed to expand, so I went on the search to find the right property to invest in, where we would have enough space to expand and create our one-stopshop. When we moved to Randpark Ridge to our own premises with the help of my amazing and handy husband, we added our very own hair salon and spa facilities.

online @ probeauty.co.za

“I happened to find this property by chance while on a Sunday drive in the area and it had an energy that I loved and although it needed a lot of work, I saw the potential of what it could become. This potential aligned completely with my #dolcevision.” Stafford, who works in the spa alongside her mom, Lynn Wagner, notes that there are many other spas and therapists operating from home in the Randpark Ridge area, many of who she knows and is friends with. “We are a community of likeminded professionals with a passion for our amazing industry so we support and refer each other. I believe the best place for business is right next to your competitor,” she comments.

Not the unisex route Because Stafford has always wanted to make women feel

At this stage, if COVID has taught me anything, it’s to appreciate everything you do have, to keep your chin up, take life day by day, and to keep pushing, no matter what comes your way. Hard work will always pay off.

in a bikini on the sun deck, or just not wanting to get dressed up or wear make-up to attend their spa bookings. Stafford continues: “I also have a silent partner in the business who, due to religious reasons, couldn’t attend unisex spas because a woman and a man who are not married cannot be naked under the same roof. It got me thinking as to how many other women out there are experiencing the same problem. They all are missing out on the pampering they deserve and now Dolce Vita is one of the few ‘ladies only spas’ in Johannesburg where women can feel safe, no matter what their religion or body insecurities.”

Fully booked Prior to the COVID-19 national lockdown, Dolce Vita was fully booked. Stafford attributes this to the fact that she and her team love and respect their clients.

empowered and fully comfortable, confidant and safe in her spa environment, she decided to go with a ladies only policy. This means that every client can feel relaxed at all times, whether they are in the outdoor pool, or lounging

She continues: “We invest time in our regular clients and in return, they grow our business through referrals. Our team provides them with a comfortable environment where they feel safe and at home. We always strive to deliver the best results and consistency in the most relaxing way possible. > online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus

“Our mission is to always keep improving and to stay up to date with the latest industry trends so as to provide the best service possible. At this stage, if COVID has taught me anything, it’s to appreciate everything you do have, to keep your chin up, take life day by day, and to keep pushing, no matter what comes your way. Hard work will always pay off.”

Facilities Dolce Vita has seven treatment rooms, an outdoor pool, a Jacuzzi, and a wooden sauna cabin. Normally (i.e. not during a pandemic), seasonal use of the facilities is complimentary with all spa packages. Says Stafford: “We’ve found that clients love the extra relaxation of using the spa facilities with their friends, especially when we host spa days. However, due to the COVID-19 pandemic and our commitment to flatten the curve, we have closed our spa facilities until further notice. We are also not taking any bookings for events or groups at the moment for the same reason. “As much as I am obsessed with our industry, I realised that it is impossible for me to do all treatments myself and be the best at every single one and that’s why we have the #dolceteam that we do. At the moment, I employ four full-time therapists and three amazing hair stylists.” online @ probeauty.co.za

According to Stafford, clients love the convenience of popping into the Dolce Hair Salon to fix ‘their crazy post facial treatment or post massage hair’. The salon offers wash & blow dry services, hair treatments, tinting, highlights, toning, hair extensions and styling.

Aesthetics The Dolce Vita treatment menu includes a wide variety of aesthetic treatments for clients to choose from. This includes both chemical and herbal peels, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), dermaplaning, permanent makeup, plasma tightening, collagen induction microneedling, laser lipo, lip injections, nutritional plans, weight-loss coaching and supplements.

Retail Stafford believes in the power of great homecare and therefore stocks a wide range of skin and body products to help clients achieve the best results possible and enhance their in spa/ salon treatments. Therapists receive retail and product knowledge training on a regular basis to help them prescribe the best homecare for their client’s specific concerns.

Post lockdown Stafford and her team came back to the spa in the last week of June to prepare for reopening on 1 July. This included

completing the mandatory workplace risk assessment, implementing new COVID-19 protocols and training all staff on new SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures). She continues: “I think we’ve had a very strong reopening considering that it was still winter and that we are still in the pandemic situation. It has certainly not been ‘normal’, but with the help of our clients and our voluntary COVID care charge that many have been adding to their service, we are slowly but surely catching up on all the extra expenses we are facing. “We have reduced our ‘fully booked capacity’ per day to allow for the extra measures we have put in place to be completed between each session, as well as to allow for social distancing.” The spa has seen a rise in cancellations and rescheduling due to some clients experiencing flu-like symptoms and having to isolate. Staff and shifts have to be juggled if any of the team feel they have flu-like symptoms. “A big challenge is dealing with the increase in anxiety and depression, not only from the client perspective but also from my staff,” comments Stafford. “We have implemented a staff wellness plan to help them combat this problem and also to keep their energy, health and morale up during this time. Training and adapting to new protocols takes place on a weekly basis. We’ve had to learn to manage our appointment book differently to allow for the best social distancing possible. “In general, the hardest thing for me personally to adapt to is the social distancing itself. We are in this industry because we love people and we make changes through touch. Therefore it is against my nature not to greet my clients with a hug, especially after not seeing them for three to four months.” PB

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Interview

Talking to… Ursula Volbrecht JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to URSULA VOLBRECHT, managing director of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care, about the brand’s longevity, running a family business, and dealing with the market challenges caused by COVID-19 Along with Rosalie Neto and Dave Neto, you launched DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care in 2004. How has the industry changed since then? We find the industry to be a lot more competitive, with the fact that doctors are employing somatologists and beauty therapists having changed the industry. This prompted DermaFix to identify consumer needs and the characteristics of active ingredients used that deliver against such needs.

How did the COVID-19 national lockdown affect your business? Did you stay in touch with your stockists? Increasing our communication was key to keep stockists motivated and informed. We embraced technological developments, which allowed us to host webinar training sessions to great success.

How is business looking now that salons are allowed to operate again? Retailing has become a key focal point for many stockists, as some consumers are still hesitant to have treatments. The industry remains cautious but optimistic. online @ probeauty.co.za

What was your background prior to launching DermaFix? My mother, Rosalie Neto, has been in the industry since 1967, which lead me to naturally progress into skincare. Starting off assisting in-clinic, I later moved into more of an operational role alongside leading international brands namely, Dermalogica, Mattioli Engineering Italy, NV Perricone and Danné Montague-King, gaining invaluable knowledge in every aspect of running a successful skincare business.

What made you and Rosalie and Dave Neto want to launch your own cosmeceutical skincare brand? Rosalie spent a year in the USA working with the late Dr James E. Fulton, who co-developed Retin-A with the late Dr Albert Kligman, and imported and distributed Dr Fulton’s brand into the South African market. Due to the expense and accessibility of importing a finished product, we identified a gap in the market for an affordable yet effective skincare brand and, as a result, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care was born.

We three individuals combined our entrepreneurial spirits and pooled many years of collective experience. Like-mindedness and a common ground are the foundation on which the DermaFix brand has been established, a business that I can proudly say is defined by an absolute passion for the skincare industry.

Please define cosmeceutical skincare as opposed to regular skincare. Cosmeceutical products make use of various active ingredients and unique delivery methods that allow for improved penetration of product through the epidermis, targeting the deeper dermal layer to improve cellular health and function.

How does your MD Prescriptives brand fit in with the DermaFix offering? In 2014, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care expanded on its retail range to include the MD Prescriptives products. These are physician strength formulations which are based on sound science and technology (i.e. a scientific approach to skincare). A variety of ingredients are found within the MD Prescriptives product range that offer corrective results for various skincare concerns, such as ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne. The MD Prescriptives products are formulated with high quality active ingredients and serve as a prescription booster to your already existing DermaFix regime.

What has been the secret to the longevity of the DermaFix brand? Our commitment to uplift the industry through education and innovative products, protocols and modalities is a driving force behind the growth of DermaFix. Results have become synonymous with the DermaFix brand.

Interview

What are the advantages of running a family-owned business?

Is there such a thing as a ‘hero’ DermaFix product?

How does your online store work?

DermaFix DermaBright set us apart from our competitors, being the first South African brand to utilise Mandelic Acid in 2006. This paved the way for the formulation of many other DermaFix hero products.

Our online portal mainly services the consumer in outer lying areas where DermaFix stockists are inaccessible. We have recently included the option for consumers to select their preferred DermaFix clinic, allowing our stockists to draw benefit from our online platform.

Does being a local brand allow you to offer a cost advantage to salons? I believe that our consistent pricing and reliable stock levels have an advantage over fully imported brands.

Is there a set number of new products that you launch each year? Our aim is to grow our brand with no set number of products launched each year, but rather based on the needs and emerging trends of the market.

What are some of the most innovative technologies that you’ve included in your formulations? DNA Protection Biofunctional Telomere Science, various peptides, stem cells, and the more recent inclusion of Cylasphere® Retinol, as well as CBD Cannabidiol (organically grown Swiss cannabis), to name a few.

How do you support your stockists? By offering free incentives for products sold, annual events, up to date training, in store promotions and monthly product promotions.

Which countries do you export to? We export into many Africa countries and have a strong Australian presence.

What is your policy regarding the testing of products on animals? The movement away from utilising animal tested products and ingredients is fast becoming a nonnegotiable factor for consumers and ethical skincare companies alike. Abuse and suffering of animals is no longer permitted in many countries around the world, which strive to offer humane, non-animal alternatives to replace cruel and harmful practices. Nature identical products and ingredients are synthesised to mimic the benefits of the natural alternatives, benefiting both the skin and the environment. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care makes use of this concept in the production of our skincare products, ensuring no animals are harmed or abused during the production and testing process.

What are your plans for the future? To grow and expand responsibly, both locally and offshore. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za

Opinion

act SISTER

In a working world where strong women are often stereotyped as aggressive, are we all being as supportive of the ‘sisterhood’ as we could be?, asks HELLEN WARD.

ecently, I was asked to go on breakfast TV to participate in a debate on women in the workplace. The subject was, ‘Are women meaner than men?’. And not in the financial stakes, but as bosses – are women harder, less kind, more manipulative, bitchier? On items like this you can never try to sit on the fence so they wanted me to fight the women’s corner and say that, from my experience, men were meaner. The trouble is, I’m not sure it’s that black and white. Luckily, the item got pulled because of a breaking news issue, so the media spotlight was turned to something else. I don’t think that anyone could argue the fact that the beauty industry is predominantly made up of women. From therapists to nail techs, female workers outnumber men in the beauty and spa sector. While the vast majority of women in leadership or managerial roles are hugely nurturing and take the mentoring element of their role extremely seriously, some are not. Equally, some of the men I worked with before I had my own

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business were very empowering, whereas some were happy to take credit from the powers that be for ideas and results generated by the younger men and women working in their teams, sometimes shamelessly. My point would have been that such behaviour isn’t necessarily gender specific. It all depends on whether somebody is kind, considerate and views their role of responsibility as an opportunity to praise and motivate younger team members working for them, or whether they are selfish and greedy enough to tread over anybody in order to climb that corporate ladder. Some women can be fantastic bosses, as can some men – and both sexes can be utter bullying pigs in the workplace.

Stereotyping Trying to stereotype it by gender doesn’t help anyone. Hopefully, karma will out and if you’re an unpleasant boss, you won’t keep hold of your staff and eventually you’ll get found out. I think that women in general are hugely supportive of other women. However, I also know of

at least two female executives working at a very high level in our sector who’ve had serious bullying grievances raised against them by younger women working for them, yet they remain in their jobs. How? So, is there such a thing as the sisterhood? Sometimes yes, other times no. Being a tough cookie in business as a woman can label you a ‘ball breaker’ when in reality it’s simply that you don’t take any crap. That sort of stereotyping is sexism at its worst. My business acumen has nothing to do with my gender and hopefully everything to do with my brain. Some of the worst ego-fuelled backstabbing I’ve ever experienced has been from women who have gone on to PR their ‘sisterhood’ credentials. What a shame. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk

29 Make-up

BEAUTY under lockdown Well-known professional make-up artist, RYNO MULDER, gives his perspective of how this sector of the beauty industry has been affected by the COVID-19 pandemic.

he unprecedented coronavirus pandemic forced many make-up artists to take a hard look at their careers and the place luxury and non-essential services have in this uncertain global environment. I, for one, had serious regrets about my life choices and in all honesty, still do. A worldwide catastrophe was something none of us ever expected to encounter anywhere, other than in a blockbuster film plot. People will always have their hair cut but a professional make-up application is a special occasion occurrence, unless the artist works in the film, television or advertising industries, all of which took a knock during lockdown. Print media, long predicted to disappear amidst the digital revolution, swiftly succumbed locally, as most consumer magazines closed and as a result, the already competitive local beauty editorial market virtually disappeared overnight.

live make-up lessons and make-up workshops online. There certainly was an upswing in interest in makeup classes, as many career women now have to conduct business via Zoom meetings and navigate how to appear professional whilst working from home. The compulsory wearing of masks in public also changed the fashion and beauty industry as now only oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyes are visible. Eye make-up requires the most complex application skills, so women who used to rely on a lick of mascara and a bright lip colour now consider improving their eye make-up game. That said, economic uncertainty saw consumers hold onto their purse strings tightly and pull back from expenses that seemed frivolous. Make-up became an obvious choice for cutting back expenses. As with hair stylists, some make-up artists performed the odd service on the sly despite tight regulations prohibiting house calls. I did not.

Forbidden to work

Postponement of weddings

Make-up artists were left prohibited from working. Many of those with an active social media presence used this period for content creation and increased follower engagement in the hopes of upping their bookings once the restrictions were lifted. I opted to adjust my service offering, which has always had a decidedly educational slant, to do

An unfortunate consequence of the pandemic for make-up artists who work mostly in events, especially weddings, was the postponement of the vast majority of weddings until 2021. In some cases, weddings were cancelled, leaving the client and artist to negotiate refund policies. The postponement of weddings meant a loss of income across two years, as most make-up

artists receive a deposit (I require full payment) upfront. So brides booked for 2020 may have paid their artists in 2019. The service being delivered in 2021 means the make-up artist cannot take on the new clients they would have had in 2021, resulting in a knock-on effect. Single income earning make-up artists like myself (in other words persons who do not have the benefit of the salary or the income of a husband, wife or partner), find themselves in an unenviable position where they have to stretch their budgets on these prepaid funds, have negligible new income, and the obligation to perform future services long since paid for. It is an undeniably bleak reality.

Master classes My well-known Make-up Master Classes, which accommodated between 50 to 180 persons prelockdown, have had to be seriously scaled back to the 50-person limit in line with hygiene protocols and social distancing regulations. The amount of effort to organise these events and expenses are mostly the same regardless of the size of the audience which means it is not truly financially viable to host in person events. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m currently surviving on new types of income streams like working in the film industry, as well as relying on skills other than make-up artistry, to make ends meet. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

31 Sponsored Article

Vitamin A – ‘The Normalizer’

Danish medical skin care brand BEAUTÉ PACIFIQUE explains why Vitamin A is necessary to maintain the structure and function of the skin.

ermal symptoms of Vitamin A deficiency are defects in keratinization, resulting in skin lesions and an abnormally dry and scaly skin. Many people develop dry, scaly skin without any apparent deficiency of Vitamin A. This condition can be corrected by topical applications of Vitamin A. The benefits of Vitamin A for the skin have been shown by Beauté Pacifique’s own Professor Peter Bjerring – with the findings published in the European Dermatology Journal. The remarkable increase of epidermal cells in these tests confirm that Vitamin A has a stimulating effect on the mitotic process in the skin. This is of special interest for ageing skin since, as a consequence of the decreasing mitotic activity, a severe thinning of both epidermis and dermis takes place.

Crème Metamorphique As an experienced EU pharmaceutical manufacturer, Beauté Pacifique has found extremely good skin repair results evidencing that Vitamin A acetate, propionate, palmitate and retinol are very efficient when formulated correctly. We have produced verifiable skin improvements, for example in our flagship product, Crème Metamorphique. Using all the vitamin esters, we achieve the combined benefits of all of them and increase the effect in different skin types and depths. This is confirmed by over 1 million Beauté Pacifique DermaScan Ultrasound scans performed globally.

The penetration into the skin is very efficient due to our nanometer sized droplets, squalane carrier technology and crème formulations with penetration enhancement capabilities.

World first Beauté Pacifique was the first skin care brand in the world to prove the age old theorisation of the efficacy of Vitamin A, a skin care cream’s ability to deliver Vitamin A to the deepest layers of the skin AND, via Ultrasound, visually produce an improved state in the skin. Professor Peter Bjerring’s studies were conducted at the Department of Dermatology in Marselisborg Hospital and confirmed by the Institute of Pharmacy and Aarhus University in Denmark. His European Dermatology publication, ‘Blister Experiment’, is world famous in cosmetic Dermatology. In the study, interstitial fluid was pulled from blisters induced in the skin after topical application of Beauté Pacifique’s Vitamin A cream, Crème Metamorphique. For the first time, it was proven that it was possible to deliver Vitamin A into the deepest layers of the skin and create real change. Our DermaScan Ultrasound is currently used in clinics – a lifelong free service to our patients and guests.

Increase in Type III Procollagen In 2000, Professor Bjerring proved that using Beauté Pacifique Vitamin A Cream and Pulsed Laser Light created an increase in Type III Procollagen by 35.9%. Clinical Super3 Niacin Laser-Prep Creme is used as prep-treatment to nonablative laser/IPL treatments. The creme dilates the blood vessels for better light energy absorption and added production of collagen as stimulated by IPL/ laser treatment. Prep-treatment with Niacin Laser-Prep typically increases the collagen synthesis rate. The creme’s content of Niacin leaves the skin with a noticeable, light glow following the IPL/Laser treatment. https://youtu.be/6WK00_vUofI Prof. Bjerring. www.beaute-pacifique.com SOURCES: Bjerring et al: ‘Topical Retinoid Penetrates intact Human Epidermis…’ European Dermatology 2008, page 42 Peter Bjerring et al, ‘An increased effectiveness of pulsed dye laser irradiation in association with the topical application of Vitamin A in dermal collagenproductions’ 2000, Poster

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Vitamin-based skincare

Feeding

skin the

Just as vitamins are essential to your health and body functions, the topical application of skincare products formulated with vitamins can play an important role in correcting your client’s skin conditions and maintaining a healthy complexion. Two forms Beauté Pacifique’s Super3 Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster Cream includes two different forms of vitamin A, each with its own way of rejuvenating the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure. The synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres is boosted to reinforce the skin’s elastic properties and this also makes the skin less transparent. Super3 Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster Cream repairs the damage caused by the sun and clearly reduces wrinkles and stretch marks. The cream is also effective for the treatment of thin skin, for example on the back of the hands and on dry and brittle nails.

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It reduces the skin’s sebum secretion and contains propolis for the treatment and prevention of impure skin, including active pimples as in teenage skin. The product should be applied very sparingly onto cleansed skin every second night. If erythema occurs, wait until the skin calms down before reintroducing the cream. Then increase the frequency of usage as individually needed.

Dynamic combo In Dermalogica’s newly launched Retinol Clearing Oil, retinol and salicylic acid are combined for the first time in a single soothing oil. This product, which falls within the Active

Clearing range for adult acne, reduces the appearance of dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while clearing acne overnight. It contains skin mimicking, plant-derived lipids to help soothe, nourish and protect the skin for clearer, more vibrant complexion. Says Angela Taylor, Dermalogica’s international education manager for Europe, Middle East & Africa: “Not only does Retinol Clearning Oil target breakouts, it also works on the signs of physical ageing and boosts the skin by renewing and soothing it overnight. This product will deliver clearer and more vibrant skin by morning. “The key ingredients are timereleased retinol and 2% salicylic acid. We have also included a blend of phytoactive oils – argan, rosehip and jojoba – to deliver a lightweight oil.

“Retinoid is the name given to the entire range of vitamin A ingredients, which come in different forms. To be able to work on the skin, a retinoid must be converted into retinoic acid. In our Retinol Clearing Oil, we have used a retinol ester (retinyl propionate) as well as a retinoid booster. When combined, this gives the same efficacy of retinol but without causing irritation to the skin. “The addition of 2% salicylic acid to the formulation dissolves pore blocking sebum. It’s also anti-inflammatory and enhances the natural exfoliation process. By adding the phytoactive lipid complex of argan, rosehip and jojoba oils, we are providing antioxidants and vitamin E, while also helping to prevent trans-epidermal water loss.”

Round-the-clock

The ACE Vitamin Day & Night Cream from QMS Medicosmetics is described as a clever moisturiser with a built-in clock as during the day it protects, while at night it regenerates the skin. Through its dynamically built carrying-cycles, active vitamin ingredients and a moisturising factor unfold in a way normally achieved through multiple products. ACE Vitamin Cream protects during the day, relaxes your skin in the evening, and regenerates during the night. This combination helps to improve the skin’s tone, restore a smooth texture and provide all day hydration.

Distinctive ingredient

it is damaged by what no-one in the world can avoid – sunlight. Vitamin A is the one molecule that plays a vital role in our metabolic processes and works with the DNA to determine the behaviour of stem cells. It dominates from conception to the grave.” Dr Fernandes notes that all forms of vitamin A can help to avert any further photo-ageing and collagen damage. These forms also hydrate and rejuvenate the skin. Topical application of vitamin A is the best way to counteract the effects of sun damage to the skin within hours.

The C factor

Environ’s Skin Care philosophy is based on vitamin A. Says Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes: “This ingredient is vital to the health of the skin, and when combined with antioxidants and peptides, one can visibly see their long-term effect on the skin. Our main philosophy is to restore the levels of vitamin A in the skin. Once the levels have been restored, skin abnormalities can be addressed, and the functions of the skin can be normalised. “Normal, healthy-looking skin has the right levels of vitamin A. If your skin is dry or oily, it may be a sign of a vitamin A deficiency. The only way to restore the vitamin A deficiency in the skin is through topical application of vitamin A. “I believe that vitamin A is the skin’s most important vitamin. Because it absorbs UV energy,

Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care believes that of all the antioxidants used in skincare, vitamin C is the most popular. She continues: “Often >

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Vitamin-based skincare

34 used as protection against harmful free radicals, this multifunctional ingredient offers skin brightening benefits along with anti-ageing properties as vitamin C plays an important role within the production of collagen and elastin. It can be found within our DermaFix VitaPlex C, DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, DermaFix ACC Vitamin and DermaFix Vitamin C Serum formulations. “Niacinamide (vitamin B) is another versatile ingredient that offers a multitude of skin benefits. Vitamin B helps to improve skin barrier function, minimises redness and blotchiness, regulates oil production, and helps to renew and restore the surface of the skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care makes use of this wonder vitamin in the DermaFix Vitamin B Cream, as well as within our MD Prescriptives range of products.” DermaFix offers all the benefits of retinol without the negative side effects as seen in MD Prescriptives Vitamin A Propionate, making use of Vitamin A Propionate for skin vitalisation benefits, and the DermaFix ACC Retinol + with Cylasphere® Retinol, a revolutionary ingredient of plant origin, obtained with a technology of encapsulation of retinol in microcapsules. This allows for a slow release into the skin for improved bioavailability, efficacy, and a gentler use. In addition to Cylasphere® Retinol, the DermaFix ACC Retinol + formulation also includes vitamin C for additional antioxidant protection and skin brightening benefits.

Five technologies RégimA utilises vitamins in every product due to their renowned antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action. Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “We use the usual retinol and tocopherol, plus oil soluble vitamin C, however, RégimA also draws a plethora of vitamins from a variety of exciting natural sources, making unique anti-ageing products. online @ probeauty.co.za

“One of our products that particularly stands out from the crowd regarding an abundance of vitamins is the Techno 5 Resurfacer.” Suitable and beneficial for all skins, this product combines five new technologies. It provides a resurfacing effect; biomimetic (imitating nature) peeling; anti-glycation; brightening effect utilising a unique polymer technology with optical diffusion effect; and incorporates a tropical fruit compound. All the ingredients in Techno 5 Resurfacer are rich in vitamins. The product is formulated with kombucha, mango pulp extract, banana (vitamins C, E, and B6), pineapple fruit, papaya, yellow mombin pulp extract, rose hip oil, blackcurrant seed oil, lecithin and olive fruit oil.

Boosting capsules Black Pearl has launched the Time Control Limited Edition Vitamin C Capsules. With no added preservatives and perfumes, these capsules are a strong vitamin C boost for the skin. “Thanks to our amazing technologies, these ingredients

can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. With the high concentration of vitamin C, you will also get a high dose of antioxidants for your skin, which boost the skin’s cell function. Vitamin C stimulates cell turnover and will help to even out skin tone, address dark spots and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts.

Granactive retinoid Placecol believes that the most effective vitamins that have a direct effect on ageing are vitamin A and vitamin C. Say the Placecol team: “However, many vitamins have strong antioxidant benefits that reverse free radical damage and stop oxidative stress in the skin, which can accelerate ageing. We are most proud of our Placecol Illuminé Retinol Serum and Placecol Excellence Gravity Lift Solution, both of which utilise our unique retinol formulation. It is a granactive retinoid, which means that there is no UV sensitivity, no skin thinning or peeling. It is a far more advanced retinoid derivative that renews skin plumpness, increases collagen and elastin,

35 Vitamin-based skincare

thereby reducing the signs of ageing. An increase in cell turnover means a thicker and more robust skin, coupled with an increase in the synthesis of extracellular proteins and glycans.â&#x20AC;?

Alphabet The ABC line of pHformula contains three essential skin vitamins introduced at high concentration levels and formulated in a 24-hour moistureretaining complex for beautiful skin. The Vita A cream contains pure retinol and should be used as an advanced treatment product for ageing skin. Retinol helps stimulate cell regeneration to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots from both photo- and intrinsic ageing. pHformulaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vita B3 cream contains niacinamide at prescription strength, which results in superior skin correction benefits, while the Vita C Cream prevents and reverses visible signs of skin ageing and pigment changes.

For home use, Anesiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Emulsion Stem C3 contains plant stem cell technology incorporated in a concentrated silky serum to target chronological ageing to help delay deterioration of essential skin cells. Antioxidants vitamin C and orange extract strengthen the natural skin barrier and fight free radicals to prevent oxidative damage. Hydroviton, a blend of natural moisturising factors, rejuvenates and hydrates.

Intense treatment

Stability Although vitamin C is a very popular active ingredient in cosmetics, the lack of stability has always been the main reason why this vitamin has often not been used at the appropriate levels in cosmetic formulations. Anesi makes use of Stay C, a stable ester formed by ascorbic and palmitic acid to create a liposoluble form of vitamin C.

The SIX Vitamin C Brightening Moisturiser is a powerful formulation that reduces levels of damaging free radicals, increases skin firmness, brightens skin tone and generates effective wrinkle reduction.

It is recommended to be used in the form of a four-week treatment, three times a year, as an excellent seasonal booster that must be used in conjunction with the SIX Vitamin A Serum. Skin is instantly energised, hydrated and repaired, diminishing fine lines and wrinkles and giving the skin a more even tone complexion.

Fruit extracts The SKNlogic skincare range is very centered around vitamins, with most of its products containing vitamin A, C and E. A lot of fruit extracts are included in the formulations because of their varied vitamin complement. Especially designed for ageing skin and containing all three vitamins, SKNnight Plus includes growth factor peptides and hyaluronic acid to combat prematurely-ageing skin conditions, while it repairs and protects. SKNnight Plus reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and simultaneously improves the texture, tone and colour of the skin. As its name suggests, it should only be used in the evening. PB

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Hair News

What the salon industry looks like now... Skyrocketing sales of DIY hair colour kits, salons downsizing operations to accommodate the new safety protocols, and stylists performing services in clients’ homes, are some of the trends evident in South Africa’s post lockdown salon environment.

his emerged at a recent Salon International / Professional Beauty webinar, which featured Stav Dimitriadis, owner of Twincare International, Candice Donadel from Mirrors Hair Lab, and Kyle van Wyk, co-owner of Texture. Inc, as panelists. Dimitriadis elaborated: “The industry is definitely being affected by the fact that consumers have been buying lots of box hair colour from the likes of Dis-Chem since lockdown first began. Going forward, it’s possible that those salons which have downsized temporarily might find that they can carry on with reduced staff. And, those hairdressers that are going to clients’ homes to perform services might find that they are making more money than in salons. So what will the industry look like then?

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I think that for clients, going to a salon is very much about the salon experience, which you don’t get if you have your service while leaning over your own basin at home.

“We’ve noticed that salon business has slowed down after the initial rush in the first week of reopening. Therefore salons need to keep an open mindset – you literally have to go day by day and adapt to the way the industry is evolving at the moment. Profitability of salons is a big issue, especially now that we have to limit the number of clients coming into the salon. Are you making the right margins?

most expensive product brands are the ones that are growing, which shows that the top income earners will always have money, no matter what. In this environment, if you have R2,000 to spend, you won’t want to try some new product that might not work.” Van Wyk said his salon had implemented a slight price increase but that most clients have been understanding about it.

PPE and safety protocols “In the short term, business is not going to go back to where it was until they develop a vaccine for COVID-19. So you have to evaluate your business on a daily basis. Salon owners should make personal appeals to clients to come into the salon.” Van Wyk added: “I think that for clients, going to a salon is very much about the salon experience, which you don’t get if you have your service while leaning over your own basin at home.”

Donadel revealed that she once used to do mobile services. “I had my car full of equipment, including a basin. It’s a backbreaking process lugging all that equipment in and out of people’s homes, and you don’t make as much money as you would think. Furthermore, there is an element of a lack of professionalism when you are doing treatments at someone’s house and it takes much longer than in the salon. “As for clients doing their own hair colour at home, while they might get a box colour treatment right the first time, by the third home treatment, their roots will be darker. A lot of clients started requesting professional DIY kits from me during lockdown and I was resistant to it at first, but then I did a video for them and started selling kits, pointing out that they wouldn’t get the same results at home as in the salon. While colour corrections are great for salons as they do bring lots of business, people don’t always have money for R3,000 treatments, especially now.”

Price increases From a supplier’s point of view, Dimitriadis has experienced a 30% price depreciation. “Consequently we do need to implement a 10% increase at least. But we don’t want to make decisions that will hurt us in the long run, so we’ve kept prices low for salons. Interestingly, our two

The Twincare International team has noticed that while most hair professionals are taking PPE seriously, in the last week they’ve seen that some salons have lost interest and are not wearing masks, which makes clients uneasy. “We have to take the COVID-19 situation seriously,” stressed Dimitriadis, “and we have to wear masks and shields.” With the infection rate spiking, Van Wyk believes more and more people are becoming scared. “A lot of clients still have kids at home and so can’t come in for services as they’re not allowed to bring kids to the salon. We haven’t had problems with clients wearing masks, but if you sit there for four to five hours for a colour correction, you do feel suffocated. It’s also problematic for staff to wear masks and shields all day.” Donadel has always enforced very strict hygiene in her salon. “So nothing really changed with the new protocols other than over-sanitising and masks. I sent out a video to clients so they would know what to expect and we charge an upfront 50% deposit and let them know they will be the only one in the salon. We had a client come in who tested positive for COVID-19 the following day, so we sent the stylist for testing and selfisolation. We fogged the salon and left it empty for 24 hours.” PB online @ probeauty.co.za

Hair News

Product Focus – Sun Protection

Sunny side up The advent of Spring affords salons the perfect opportunity to start educating their clients about the importance of daily protection from the sun and to prescribe effective products for this purpose

Stay Beautiful A modern anti-age / SPF30 sunscreen for face and décolleté, the Beauté Pacifique Stay Beautiful is formulated with a unique combination of five UV filters to protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. A strong antioxidant anti-age effect is provided by resveratrol and procyanidines, derived from Chilean grape seed extract (GSPE), along with Vitamin E.

073 053 8830

Formulated with ultra-sheer zinc oxide, Dermalogica’s Invisible Physical Defense SPF30 blends easily on all skin tones, leaving no white residue. This latest SPF protects your skin from UVA/ UVB rays and blue-light from our phones and computers, to prevent collagen break down, hyperpigmentation and inflammation. It soothes all skin types.

011 268 0018

Rad Shield® Mineral Sunscreen Environ’s Rad Shield® Mineral Sunscreen is based on the same scientific principles of the brand’s sun care philosophy but offers a new contemporary sunscreen format comparatively better suited to oilier skin types, or ‘chemical-phobes’. Powerful physical reflectors (zinc and titanium) and antioxidants provide broad-spectrum UVA, UVB and IR defence.

011 262 0264

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Invisible Physical Defense SPF30

Cellular Sun Shield SPF50+ Suitable for all skin types, Cellular Sun Shield SPF50+ from QMS Medicosmetics boasts a powerful formulation with balanced UVA/UVB sun protection and an innovative DNArepair complex. The product’s lightweight texture is designed to ensure easy absorption and protect against premature signs of skin aging caused by sun exposure.

0860 018 022

Your Daily High Protection Sun Cream From Team Dr Joseph, Your Daily High Protection Sun Cream is formulated with innovative UVA and UVB filters and selective functional ingredients of butterfly bush and sea buckthorn. This broadband photoprotector provides intensive sun protection and extra moisture. It is light, non-oily and suitable for children and all skin types.

DermaShield DermaFix DermaShield SPF40 and DermaFix DermaShield SPF50 offer high protection against both UVA and UVB radiation, and are an imperative part of any daily skin care routine.

086 128 2323

0860 018 022

Sun Protection Spray SPF15 Both the Placecol Sun Protection Spray SPF15 and Illuiminé Sun Protection SPF40 are low in chemicals and high in filters, making them exceptionally safe to use. Combined with the active sun protection ingredients are advanced botanicals to replenish skin moisture levels and protect the integrity of the skin.

011 086 9800

Crème Haute Protection SPF30 Available in a plain or tinted version, Anesi’s Crème Haute Protection SPF30 protects against UVA and UVB rays, while moisturising and calming the skin. It is formulated with three chemical sun protection filters, as well as titanium dioxide as a physical filter. Additional ingredients include allantoin, bisabolol, liquorice extract and monoi of Tahiti.

011 791 4027

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Product Focus – Sun Protection

Body Contouring

fair PROSPECT

We asked practice manager and dermal aesthetician, LOURETTE DU TOIT, for tips on how to manage your client’s body contouring treatment expectations

e are in an industry where the Golden Rule applies: under promise and over deliver. When it comes to body contouring and using non-invasive technology such as radiofrequency, infra-red, vacuum and rolling, it is very important to make sure you are managing your client’s expectations. There are a lot of different devices and technologies on the market, competing against each other for the spotlight. It’s very easy even for us as the professionals to get confused or overwhelmed. Now just imagine how the consumer feels. This information is relevant to all other procedures or products we offer in our clinics, but I want to specifically highlight a few points to keep in mind when we do body contouring. I firmly believe in setting the expectation from the very start. This eliminates any disappointment during or after the journey with your client. In order to set the expectation, I recommend keeping the following list in mind: 1.

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Knowledge is key Make sure you and your team are fully educated on the systems/ products that you offer at your clinic and also on the conditions you are treating. Body contouring includes conditions such as stubborn fat, cellulite, sagging skin and circumference. It’s important to be well educated on how these conditions form in the body, and what needs to happen to create an improvement in this condition. 2. Real results Start managing expectations even before you meet your client. Marketing gets done on multiple platforms, of which social media is one of the biggest. I always make sure that when I advertise our services to our market, to show real results from real patients or clients, with the correct information.

41 Body Contouring

3. Consultation This is probably one of the most important points to remember. During consultation we do all our checks to identify a few things: • The client’s concern • The client’s expectation • The best option of treatment, combination and or homecare products • The quotation During this consultation, educate your client on the concern they have and set the record. Discuss the severity of the condition, the chances of improvement and a general timeline. There are fantastic machines and ingredients available, but no result will last if the client goes back to unhealthy eating habits or a sedentary lifestyle. 4. Re-assess By re-assessing your client’s concerns e.g. measuring, weighing or taking photos with every visit, it helps you as the specialist to determine whether you are still on the right track to get your client to his/ her desired results or to identify if your client is struggling to keep to their home care instructions, such as healthy eating, regular exercise and enough water intake. By continuously following up with your client during their body contouring journey, you maintain their trust and confidence in you. You are reminding them of the goal and constantly managing the expectation 5. Follow Up It’s important to sit down with your client after their body contouring journey and discuss or summarise her results. This is when you will compare before and after photos, measurements or weight, maintenance plan and ultimately that their expectations were met or over delivered. By managing expectations from BEFORE you meet your client right through to the end, you are painting a clear and educated picture and eliminating disappointment or miscommunication. Body contouring is an exciting journey to go on with your client, as you are working towards a goal together, not just her physical goal but often also emotionally by restoring selfconfidence and improving self-esteem. I always say: our work is much deeper than skin deep. PB

Lourette Du Toit has over 14 years of experience in the skincare and medical aesthetic industry, having worked with multiple different brands, technologies and techniques and undergone additional specialist training. She is an Isa Carstens Alumni and has been running a big medical aesthetic practice in the heart of Sandton since 2014.

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Body Contouring

Working on the silhouette Right in time for Spring, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY looks at some of the leading body contouring devices on the market. Flagship combination system Venus Concept fully supports the benefit of an active lifestyle and exercise as a healthy habit, but also knows that exercise and nutrition alone do not always help to overcome certain body challenges. The number one body challenge is probably the accumulation of fat around the flanks and abdomen, which seems to be the most difficult to lose again. Says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa: “Our flagship combination system, the Venus BlissTM noninvasive lipolysis system, includes two in-demand technologies in one small footprint. Venus BlissTM offers a safe and effective treatment resulting in fat reduction of the abdomen and flanks. “It employs a 1064nm diode laser to induce lipolysis and effectively reduce fat, followed by our world-renowned (MP)2 technology, combining multipolar radiofrequency and pulsed electro magnetic fields

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with advanced VariPulseTM technology to tighten skin, reduce circumference and reduce cellulite for a smoother, more contoured appearance. While the Venus BlissTM diode is indicated for abdomen and flanks, the (MP)2 applicator can be used on all body areas including arms, abdomen, flanks, buttocks and thighs for tightening and toning. Since this applicator features a significant depth of impact of up to 4.5cm, with adjustable pulsed suction, it increases blood flow and enhances lymphatic drainage.” Four diode laser applicators can be activated individually and placed in various configurations on a belt to suit the treatment area. The treatment area of each diode laser applicator measures 36cm2 versus the competitor’s 24cm2 spot size. Both the wavelength and skin-contact cooling mechanism make it possible for laser energy to safely penetrate to the hypodermis to target adipose tissue without harming the skin’s surface. User friendly safety features include uniform energy distribution and tissue contact sensors, two internal temperature sensors in each applicator to monitor

cooling, and a unique belt design allowing hands-free operation. (MP)2 technology is also available on the Venus Freeze Plus, Venus Versa, Venus Viva and Venus Legacy systems. The VariPulseTM technology has been proven for superior efficacy and patient comfort as part of the Venus Legacy across the globe. Solutions for obesity, dangerous abdominal fat deposits and the onset of diabetes should be considered by serious practitioners of body aesthetics as an essential tool in their service menu and the partnership benefits offered by Venus Concept add further strategic business advantages.

Magnetic muscle stimulation According to Rohan Pretorius of distributor, Radiant Healthcare, the Iskra Medical Tesla Former FMS System is the most concentrated, targeted and effective device for body forming on the market. He continues: “The device uses a magnetic ﬁeld that propagates through clothes and skin inside your body. It works by triggering motor neurons and exciting muscle contractions. A treatment with the Tesla gives the patient

the feeling of a high-intensity workout. “Advantages of this system include body sculpting, muscle mass growth and strengthening, and easier fat burning. In addition it helps you to stay in shape, while lifting the butt and fixing the posture.” This non-invasive treatment with no downtime generates up to 50.000 pulses in 30-minute session. No operator or preparation is needed.

Body Contouring

Ultrasound & RF Accent Prime™ is Alma’s top-of-theline workstation for body contouring, skin tightening and aesthetic enhancement. The platform combines the latest innovations in ultrasound and radiofrequency (RF) technologies to deliver effective, highly customised treatments with natural, long lasting results. It targets adipocytes and tightens collagen. Hand-free, stationary applicators designed for body contouring and skin tightening, incorporating resonantdistributing FR heating are exclusively used with Alma’s Accent Prime platform.

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Body Contouring

The ultrasound energy is distributed homogenously throughout the treatment area, effectively disrupting stubborn fat cells. RF power is then used to produce thermal deep heating to the tissue, resulting in more concentrated energy treatment. This unique combination reduces treatment time and the number of sessions, while yielding more powerful results.

High-frequency microwaves

Distributed by Hitech Lasers, Onda is a multi-application body contouring device that targets skin tightening, as well as cellulite and fat reduction, using using revolutionary CoolwavesTM technology in a non-invasive way. Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers: “Onda can treat multiple body areas, including a double chin. It is noninvasive with no downtime and achieves high patient satisfaction as results are observed from the first session on. Because the device not limited to applicators, it is suitable for all body shapes. It has twice been awarded as

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best innovative technology.” In terms of fat reduction, CoolwavesTM bypass the upper layers of the skin to deeply penetrate the subdermal fat layers. The thermal energy disrupts the membranes of subcutaneous fat cells through a mechanism called ‘blebbing’, resulting in fat cell death. These are naturally eliminated from the body through the lymphatic system. To treat cellulite, Coolwaves™ effectively targets the connective tissue (septa) between the adipose lobules in different stages of cellulite. The septa through the thermal action are solubilised, which regenerate and stimulate new and more elastic collagen fibres. The results are almost immediate. Coolwaves™ technology is based on high-frequency (2.45GHz) electromagnetic currents (microwaves) that selectively target fat cells, whilst stimulating the production of new collagen to tighten and reshape the body in a safe, effective and non-invasive way.

Supramaximal contraction The BTL Emsculpt from BTL Medical is positioned as the only procedure which helps women and men build muscle and burn fat simultaneously. In addition, Emsculpt provides the world’s first non-invasive buttock toning procedure. Emsculpt is based on high-intensity focused electromagnetic energy. The device creates magnetic impulses that stimulate strong supramaximal muscle contraction when the patient is lying stationary on a treatment bed. In a 30-minute session, the device makes thousands of contractions, which results in more muscle mass, less fat and less visceral fat. This is extremely important in improving the tone and strength of your muscles.

“Only BTL and the Emsculpt

The mechanical stimulation of cells, called endermologie®, thus reactivates their awakening, naturally and painlessly. After more than 30 years of expertise and scientific research, LPG® has created a new patent to control all these natural mechanisms in a single treatment. endermologie® acts simultaneously on the release of stubborn, localised fat and on skin quality (firmness, cellulite). The new patent (roller and motorised flap combined with sequential suction) allows the technology to act directly on the adipocytes present in the hypodermis (slimming cells) and on the fibroblasts present in the dermis (rejuvenating cells).

can claim a result of 16% more muscle mass and 19% less fat mass reached in only four sessions over a two-week period,” says Branislav Sučanský of BTL Medical SA.

Natural alternative In contrast to a lot of techniques available on the market, LPG® endermologie offers a 100% natural alternative to body sculpting. The device stimulates dormant cellular activity within the skin to fight all manifestations (i.e. wrinkles, sagging skin, localised resistant fat, cellulite appearance and more).

Endogenic thermal reaction The Placecol Clinics make use of a specialised device for both body and face called the Ceya machine. It uses a radiofrequency current, which delivers visible and sustainable results over a course of treatments. Radiofrequency causes the body to develop an endogenic thermal reaction within the tissue, resulting in cellular regeneration and boosting the cellular structural matrix. This results in tighter, more youthful looking skin. Furthermore, a reduction in cellulite and fatty deposits is evident, as well as a reduction in centimetres. PB online @ probeauty.co.za

Body Contouring

Aesthetic Medicine

speaking

KAREN ELLITHORNE reports on the new trend of using threads for lip augmentation.

e are all aware that well-defined plump lips are a signature of youthfulness, as well as hugely on trend and desirable. The traditional non-surgical hyaluronic acid lip filler that has been regularly administered and evolved over the years for lip enhancement, has always been a popular choice to achieve the perfect pout. Results of this treatment modality have always been optimal. However, there is a new kid on the block that is now an alternative option in lip enhancement. Lip filler’s new rival is rumoured to offer more authentic and longer lasting results. Many clients have experienced the life-changing benefits of thread lifting treatments in the face and body, including their use in non-surgical rhinoplasty and the pinning back of ears. We now have an option of lip threads that are gaining

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Components

Many clients have experienced the life-changing benefits of thread lifting treatments in the face and body, including their use in nonsurgical rhinoplasty and the pinning back of ears. popularity around the world and have been FDA approved for this purpose. Lip threading, which is not to be confused with threading hair removal from the upper lip, is essentially a treatment that involves passing threads through your skin to make the lips more defined. Compared to fillers, it is said that the thread enhancements can be more subtle, especially around the cupid’s bow area.

Threads for lips consist of a biocompatible synthetic substance that helps to build collagen and when placed in the lips, have properties that are able to change the shape and contours of the lips. “Aptos has a lip thread called Nano Spring, a thinner thread that is able to stretch so as to work with the natural movements of the perioral area. This specific thread takes approximately a year to dissolve and is made up of poly-L-lactic acid/ caprolactone. This ingredient provides a powerful stimulus for fibroblasts to produce collagen in order to plump up the lips,” says Dr Johan Botha from DermAfrica, an aesthetic product supplier and trainer based in Cape Town.

Threads vs filler Threads are capable of adding volume and plumping the lips, but not as well as the hyaluronic acid that is the generally used ingredient in lip fillers. Threads are better used to line and define the lips for a more contoured, natural look.

If budget is part of your client’s concern, it is good to note that thread procedures are generally more cost effective than fillers. The two different modalities can be easily combined to achieve a very effective result.

Procedure If you require contouring of both your top and bottom lip, it would require the administration of between two and six threads, depending on what you are trying to achieve. Like with any injectable aesthetic treatment, the risk of bruising is always there. This generally takes two weeks to disappear.

The treatment itself is, in most cases, tolerable, but does require the administration of local anaesthetic at the entry points of the threads to minimise discomfort. Threads is a slightly more invasive treatment than fillers and is difficult to reverse should a client have an allergic reaction. The benefit of threads is that they are more long lasting than fillers, as the threads take longer to break down naturally.

Side effects With the body’s usual response to inflammation and foreign substances, one does run the risk of granulomas with both treatment modalities. These

are lumps in the skin that will dissipate over time. If an allergic reaction to the threads happens to take place, the poly-L-lactic acid found in these threads is not dissolvable like a hyaluronic acid filler. You would need to wait for the thread to dissolve naturally. Having said this, threads that are administered by a qualified and experienced medical doctor are relatively safe. Dr David Grieve, a Gauteng based aesthetic doctor, says he has worked with both lip threads and filler. Although he has had good results with lip threads, he still personally prefers the results of filler in the lips as opposed to threads, but maintains that both modalities give a nice result. “Threads will last longer but due to the fact that it is a foreign body, it will be more tender post treatment for a longer period of time as opposed to hyaluronic fillers,” says Grieve. If you want perfect lips that are not overly enhanced, threads are the way to go, recommends Dr Botha. “They will not, however, give you that plumpness and fullness that hyaluronic acid filler can achieve.” He mentions that the Aptos threads are also successful to treat other peri-oral ageing concerns at the same time as treating lips. These include wrinkles on the upper lip, the nasolabial folds and marionette lines. If natural contour and shape is what you are looking for in your lip enhancement session, threading would be your ‘tweakment’ of choice. PB

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine

Product News

market IN THE

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Face on

Men only

Massage Oasis is a cozy and luxurious face cradle slipcover that promises your client the comfort and peace of mind of home, whilst keeping them safe during their post lockdown massage. Clients will love having their own personal face cradle cover to help them relax during a session.

Six has launched two news products for the male market – the Men’s Refreshing Scrub, which eliminates dead skin cells, unclogs blocked pores, removes dirt and grime for a fresh new skin, as well as the Men’s Firming Eye Gel. This powerpacked product is designed to help with dark circles, dull skin, puffiness, and even crinkly lines in the corner of the eyes.

083 636 3461

011 312 7840

Moisturising sanitizer

Pep-me-up The first-ever supplement from pHforumula, Liquid Life Boost transforms your skin from the inside out. A unique combination of collagen peptides, vitamins, minerals and hyaluronic acid work synergistically to promote skin suppleness and firmness, boost the immune system, intensively hydrate the skin, protect against oxidative stress and increase radiance.

082 338 2368

Infused with argan oil, Inoar’s Hydrating Sanitizer Gel is formulated with 70% alcohol, ensuring that 99,9% of bacteria, viruses and germs are immediately eliminated, while leaving your skin feeling nourished, moisturized and soft. This sanitizer is gentle on even the most sensitive, damaged and dry hands and is vegan and cruelty free.

012 346 1721

Issue 35

September 2020

Moving pictures Creating videos for your salon

DELICATE OPERATION

How to approach the cuticle

IN LIVING COLOUR

Helping your client choose the right shade

Nail Design Competition Welcome

f a picture can tell a thousand words, then imagine how many words a short video can. Videos have become the most sought after form Issue 35 of content on social media and, as such, should be incorporated into September 2020 your salon’s marketing strategies. This issue of NailFile includes a fascinating article, written by a social media expert, on how to create appealing marketing videos for your salon and what online platforms to use to ensure the widest reach for these short films. Creating It would seem like the simplest thing on earth – asking your client to videos fo r your sa lon choose a colour for their nail service. But sometimes clients can be indecisive and so may need some guidance. In our article on the subject, an expert provides invaluable advice on how nail techs should subtly go about this process, from observing the client’s wardrobe, to using colour theory and taking into account her skin tone and hair shade. An important article in this issue relates to how nail techs should approach the cuticle – what practices to adopt and what practices DELICATE to avoid altogether. OPERATIO N

Moving pictures

How to ap the cutic proach le

IN LIVING COLO

UR Helping choose th your client e right sh ade

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

WHAT’S INSIDE

Industry News

Stay in the know

52 Ask the Experts

56 Techniques

TLC for cuticles and correct removal

How do I help a client choose a colour?

Product Hub

Marketing

Step by Step

The alluring attraction of videos online @ probeauty.co.za

Latest releases

Flower art

62 Step by step

Gouache butterfly

64 Top Tech Talk Juanita Bester

51 Business Trends News

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Nail tech creates make-up brand South African nail stylist, Eloise Nom Chong of nails by @elostrated, has created her own brand of make-up called Imperium Cosmetics. Nom Chong, who placed 3rd in The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2018 international nail art competition, previously developed a range of gel polish. She decided to create a make-up range because it is something she has always had a passion for. “I’m continually up for a challenge as I believe in growth through challenges,” continues Nom Chong. “It’s always

interesting to see how far you can get by pushing the limits. My make-up range has allowed me to bring new interests to the industry, with great quality and affordable prices.” Imperium Cosmetics products are manufactured in a variety of countries. The range consists of: Eyeshadow, Highlighter, Lash Glue, Silk Lashes (five different styles), Magnetic Lashes (10 different styles), Eyebrow Pomade, Foundation, Glue Liners, Matte Lipstick, Velvet Lipstick, and Cleansing Brushes. “We have created business

opportunities for people to become Imperium representatives, and our team of reps and retail outlets distribute throughout South Africa.” concludes Nom Chong.

Mia Secret SA participates in global competition

Educators from the Mia Secret South Africa team recently competed in an international competition run by the brand. Says Morné Louw, who runs Mia Secret South Africa together with daughter, Tess Tullues: “The competition was announced in June and we had until 30 July to submit entries. Mia Secret wanted

to keep its educators busy and positive during lockdown. Some 200 educators from around the world participated.” Competition categories were: Gel painting; Mixed media; Extreme shapes; and Photo poster. Louw and Tullues took part in the competition along with all the

other Mia Secret SA International Certified educators, namely Luzelle Davel, Monique de Sousa, Michelle de Sousa, Dominique Fuyk and Mariska Walters. “All of us had international training via Facebook live with the other participants. We are very proud to be the Mia Secret brand owners for Africa,” says Louw.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

ask

the EXPERTS

QUESTION:

How do I help a client choose a colour they will like?

MAUREEN BRILL Oh no! It’s that time of the month again when your client has to pick a new nail colour. “Surprise me,” she says. You try not to let your frustration show as you deal with your third indecisive client of the day. She flips through the colour palette obsessively as she tries to pick a colour, and all that’s going through your head is how you’re going to shift around your appointments to make up for lost time. And we all know she’s going to pick exactly the same colour she had last time, so what’s the point? Well, maybe that isn’t true and with these useful tips below, you can turn the colour picking process into an easy and stress-free part of your nail appointment.

New clients By now, experienced nail therapists will have built up a relationship with their clientele and know their tastes and preferences. But what if a new client walks into the salon? How

Try to observe your client in terms of colour theory. Maybe she has an olive skin tone, or a really dark complexion. do we pick a colour without even knowing our client? Firstly, observe her wardrobe. The kinds of clothes people wear can be very indicative of their personalities. Perhaps she’s alternative, or a classy older woman – or maybe she’s a funky character. If she wears it on her body, then why not on her nails? Try to observe your client in terms of colour theory. Maybe she has an olive skin tone, or a really dark complexion. What colour is her hair? Her eyes? These clues will help you choose a colour that your client likes and that actually suits her as well.

Keep it classy with neutral colours Neutral colours tend to work in all situations, so they’re a safe option if your client works in a corporate environment. For an everyday look, or for professional occasions, you can opt for greys, whites, beiges or ombres, as well as light peachy shades. Add a dash of rose gold for a little bit of shimmer and excitement.

Pinks work on everyone

Be bold and pick red

You will be happy to know that pinks work for every skin tone. Pale skin tends to look great with any type of pink, from soft baby pinks to bright fuchsias. Peachy shades of pink look great on medium skin tones, and darker skin tones are complemented amazingly by bright and vibrant pinks.

The paler the skin, the brighter the red can be. Think Snow White. Accentuate your luscious long nails with a vibrant and bold polish. Avoid using sheer tones on pale skin types. If the skin is medium toned, a red-orange undertone will suit your client better. And, as a rule of thumb, the darker the complexion, the deeper the red. A deep wine red will highlight the skin and allow your client to stand out confidently.

Blues are universal If your client has pale skin, play down the blues and go for a navy. Medium skin tones look good with sky or pastel blues. Vibrant shades, like cobalt blues, will pop on darker skin tones.

Experiment with purple Lavender gel polishes look absolutely dashing on pale skin tones, you might even want to match it with a hint of grey. Deep purple polishes with berry undertones work deliciously well if you have a darker complexion.

look with a deep plum, wine red, or olive green colour for winter, to match those earthy toned jerseys. Whatever the pick of the month may be, remember, it’s not permanent. Always record your client’s colour choices for future reference and to save you time. Convince her to be spontaneous once in a while, and take a walk on the wild side. She might just enjoy it.

If all else fails, use seasonal colours You can advise your client on a playful association with a holiday or festive look. For example, red glittery polish for Christmas or Valentine’s Day. Perhaps some vibrant pink shades for summer, and deep auburn for autumn. You might even convince her to darken her

Don’t forget to check out our social media channels There is always a regular stream of informative posts, news, views and the occasional FUN item to lighten your day. Join us and get involved

Maureen Brill is a multiple awardwinning nail artist and a former Professional Beauty Nail Technician of the Year. Brill is currently director of education at Nelé Naturalé.

Business Business Trends Tips

Nail Design Business Competition Marketing Trends

The alluring attraction of

videos NAILFILE asked social media expert, URSULA BRETT, for tips on how to create videos for your salon and which platforms to post on for maximum exposure

ooking at the latest digital trends and statistics of the most widely used social media platforms in South Africa, and as of January 2020, there are 59.3 million people in the country, of which 36.5 million are internet users, with 22 million active users of social media platforms. The average time consumers spend on the internet daily is over nine hours, with more than three hours of that time spent focusing solely on social media. Most internet users (between the ages of 16 and 64 years old) watch online videos 98% of the time, while 98% of active social media users access the internet via their mobile phones. It is clear that video viewing on Facebook using a laptop is a vastly different experience than viewing it on your mobile, which is where the majority of consumers are consuming content.

Facebook Watch On Facebook there is a ‘section’ called Facebook Watch and each time you view a video on Facebook, your mobile opens it in Watch. When one video ends, another starts and so on. Therefore, the likelihood of your video being seen there is higher

online @ probeauty.co.za

As of January 2020, there are 59.3 million people in the country, of which 36.5 million are internet users, with 22 million active users of social media platforms. compared to posting images and text only – this is immensely powerful. Facebook changed their algorithms for business pages in 2017; any followers you currently have will probably only see your posts between 2-4% of the time. The Facebook reasoning is that for people’s mental and relationship wellness, they want

to encourage people to use the platform for which it was first intended. When there are no business pages or even adverts, they want users to interact with their friends.

What content to post If you use your page posts and comments to provide content, then it must be helpful content that contributes but without pushing your product or agenda onto people. Less sales talk therefore and more helpful information. This will then work in your favour, otherwise Facebook will charge you for adverts that are designed for your audience. This is fantastic when done correctly, but without guidance your social media budget is often swallowed up.

Marketing

Most popular platforms According to Stats SA, the following social media platforms are the most popular: WhatsApp, YouTube, Facebook (with about 30 million people), Facebook Messenger, Instagram (with about 5 million people), Twitter (with about 3 million people), Pinterest, LinkedIn, Snapchat, Skype, TikTok (which is growing steadily) and a few others. Facebook is still by far the most used platform and should always be used. Instagram may not be huge yet, but your specific audience or potential audience is likely visible on Instagram so utilise it and link it to your Facebook to share posts and save time. The TikTok audience may be younger now, but a lot of moms and dads and celebs are getting in on the action, especially due to lockdown. And remember that young users are your potential clients of the future. Clients who use public transport are often big Twitter users, as they are online while they travel. If you don’t have a website (and you may not need one), then it is important to ensure your Facebook and Instagram are always up to date, especially regarding your bio and contact info. It’s important to share your

work often. I hold Social Media Master Classes bi-monthly where you learn how to set up all these platforms.

Making films It is perfectly fine to use your cellphone to create video content and many people do so. You just need good lighting and the right background. Here are a few brief tips Wipe your cellphone camera before taking video or pics – your camera could be smudged by your fingers, face, or makeup and this can severely affect the quality of your content. Ensure you use your best lighting options – it may be in a well-lit room, or using your flash or a selfie light. Use a background that shows your logo; a smooth clear background is recommended. Show just your hands but, even better, try something different. Start with the client’s nails and then ask her to lift up her hands and show them up against her shirt or her face. Video how your nail techniques are applied and show off the salon, as well as some compilations of nail art you’ve done.

Be sure to speak clearly in the video, remove background clutter, and make sure everything is well lit. Edit the video to add captions or wording. On Instagram, videos must be at least one minute long. The maximum length your video can be is 15 minutes when uploading from a mobile device, and 60 minutes when uploading from the web. Hashtags are super important and are covered in my Social Media Master Classes. Remember that your work is your greatest advert – nail techs get a lot of business through referrals. Prospective clients will always check out your work online before making an appointment.

Ursula Brett of Hairstyles South Africa is an icon in the hairdressing industry. She has worked for Schering-Plough, Revlon’s marketing division, and Twincare International, becoming marketing manager for Redken. Email: ursulabrett@gmail.com

online @ probeauty.co.za

Techniques

TLC for cuticles and correct removal

SONETTE VAN RENSBURG provides valuable information on how to approach your client’s cuticles

atty, dry and unsightly cuticles are just not on trend and can completely spoil your client’s overall nail look. A professional artist will never create a work of art on an unprepared canvas; the same goes for a nail tech wanting to achieve a perfectly done or polished set of nails. However, how much of the cuticle should actually be removed during a manicure or nail treatment, if at all? Let’s find out how you should be treating your client’s cuticles and what you can do to nurture and give them that extra TLC. The aim is to replenish, repair and restore them rather than to remove them. Firstly, let’s go back to basics and recap on some really important and valuable information about the anatomy of the nail and the cuticle.

Misinformation Over the years there has been a lot of misinformation about nail anatomy, causing plenty of confusion. After much research, reviewing dozens of scientific reports, as well as working with various world class medical experts and internationally known nail educators, last year Doug Schoon released some new information, in the hopes of ending the confusion. online @ probeauty.co.za

In this article we reiterate some of the most important points from Schoon’s article, to gain a better understanding of why we should perform certain practices, and why some we should not perform others. If you have not already read this information where he explains it in detail, then please refer to the full article, ‘Nail Exposé – New Nail Anatomy Facts’, which was published in the Oct/Nov 2019 issue of NailFile. It’s a must read.

The facts Schoon states that we should not confuse certain parts of the nail unit and where they are located, as each part has its own very specific function. Here is a summary of his findings and what he established from his research. He writes: “The eponychium is a thin layer containing stem cells that lines the bottom of the Proximal Nail Fold (PNF), this is the correct name for the flap of skin that covers both the nail matrix and nail plate. Cuticle tissue is created by the stem cells located within the eponychium (underside of the PNF). Also note that the nail plate sits on top of the nail bed, so it is an error to say that nail polish is applied to the nail bed, instead it is applied to the nail plate. “The PNF is NOT the cuticle! It may be covered with hardened PNF skin, but this should never be confused for cuticle tissue. Cuticle tissue is an important barrier (seal) between the PNF and nail plate, which helps keep bacteria out of the nail matrix area. An infection in the matrix area could lead to permanently damaged nail plates and / or bone infections; this could lead to the loss of a finger or toe. Cutting and overly aggressive manicuring / pedicuring can break the tissue seal to allow bacteria to penetrate and cause a nail to become infected. “Carefully removing a loose tag of dead skin is acceptable, as long as the living skin is not torn or damaged further by the removal

Nail professionals should always work very carefully with both the eponychium and cuticle area, as improperly performed techniques can cause serious problems for clients, leading to all kinds of problems. process. Even so, nail technicians should not intentionally abrade or cut intact skin from around the nail plate. “Some might mistakenly believe that since the skin is ‘keratinized’, it must be dead and not harmful to cut – but that is incorrect! Whether it’s living or dead isn’t the issue. The real issue is that cutting or abrading can cause skin infections or allergies. It is NOT in the client’s best interest to intentionally cut or abrade away portions of the proximal nail fold.”

Cuticle care A fundamental step in any nail service is cuticle care, so as to be able to achieve a meticulous manicure and perfectly polished nails. If cuticle tissue is left on the nail plate, it can interfere with the adhesion of nail enhancements and nail coatings, causing them to lift. When preparing the cuticles for a nail service, some nail professionals prefer using a cuticle remover and others prefer to perform a dry procedure. It’s really a matter of preference and will also depend on the condition of the cuticles. Personally, if my client’s cuticles are exceptionally unruly and she hasn’t had a manicure in a while, I prefer to use a cuticle remover to soften and break down the non-living cuticle tissue, which is stuck to the nail plate, rather than forcing and scarping it to remove it from the nail plate, as this can be damaging.

Whichever you prefer, it’s important to remember that the eponychium should always be carefully and gently pushed back, exposing the cuticle to then remove the non-living tissue from the nail plate, using the correct products and procedures to do so. If this is done properly, then the non-living cuticle tissue can be easily removed. Be careful when using cuticle removers and check that your client isn’t sensitive or allergic to any of the ingredients in the product, as some cuticle removers contain sodium or potassium hydroxide, which breaks down the non living tissue to easily remove it.

Tools Using the correct and good quality implements and tools is also really important. Some people believe that metal implements are harmful for the nail unit and, in the wrong hands, yes they can be. However, when used correctly, they are very effective in achieving the required results. Make sure cuticle pushers are not too sharp and that they don’t cut into the skin. A curette is also a very helpful tool to pull away the non-living tissue without damaging the nail plate. Cuticle nippers and electric files should not be used to remove cuticle, only use nippers to cut away a dry skin tag and always make sure they are sharp to cut it away cleanly. Never tug or pull at loose skin tissue, you will only tear the skin which could result in an open wound, allowing bacteria to enter which can result in an infection. Nail professionals should always work very carefully with both the eponychium and cuticle area, as improperly performed techniques can cause serious problems for clients, leading to all kinds of problems. We should therefore avoid practicing harsh manicuring techniques, or cutting the living skin tissue away. There are more negative reasons as to why we should perform these unsafe procedures than why we should. online @ probeauty.co.za

Techniques

Home care Lastly, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to recommend and retail home after care products to your clients. Advise them on which products will benefit them and explain how and when to use them. While working on their cuticles, explain that cutting them is not the solution, however using a good quality cuticle oil and / or cuticle treatment will condition them and prevent them from becoming dry and causing loose hang nails, which need to be cut. This will also benefit their nails and keep them tough and nourished. Selling products to your clients isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just about making an extra buck or two, but a necessity to maintain the health and condition

online @ probeauty.co.za

We should not confuse certain parts of the nail unit and where they are located, as each part has its own very specific function. of the cuticles and nails and to provide them with service longevity. In conclusion, effective nail and cuticle care can be performed without causing harm or damage. Using the correct tools and good quality products designed specifically to treat, hands, nails and feet, along with safe techniques and client after care, will preserve

and nurture the cuticles, the surrounding living skin tissue and the nails. It all goes hand in hand with proper professional practices, to ensure that your client is getting the most out of their treatments and that you are performing safe, effective services.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Old world style The BIOGEL Vintage Poetry Collection from Bio Sculpture was inspired by the graceful dusty colours trending this season. The collection is poetically reminiscent of a vintage romance with just the right amount of sapphire spark.

086 124 6435

Entrancing enhancements CND Plexigel Brush-in-a-Bottle Gel Nail Enhancement System provides the nail technician with a simple, clean application and no product wastage. There are no pots, no tubes, no mixing and no mess, only a crystal clear enhancement with easy rebalance and removal. Plexigel can fill in cracked, split nails, repair broken nails and plump and shape flat nails.

011 791 4027

Stress-less bonding LCN Bio-Glass Stress-less is an acid free bonding gel that contains a new active ingredient, Bel-Evenâ&#x201E;˘. During times of excessive stress, the body releases the stress hormone, cortisol; Bel-Evenâ&#x201E;˘ inhibits a release of cortisol on nails. Bio-Glass Stress-less provides a natural bond to the natural nail, meaning even less nail breakage.

010 593 3293

online @ probeauty.co.za

In the Market

Business In the Market Trends

First light The IBD Scarlet Dawn collection is inspired by the ‘first appearance of light in the sky before sunrise’. This collection represents 10 magically-moody Just Gel Polish shades, and a Top and Base Coat to achieve that ultra-finished look.

011 305 1600

Changing colours

Mix it up

Zsa Zsa Nails Liquid Crystal is a thermal ink that can change to 12 different colours, according to the temperature. It is air dryable and can be removed with gel remover. The nail stylist can apply Liquid Crystal on the entire nail, or use it to create different patterns.

Calgel Plus Mixing gel can be used to create a sheer colour with any of the Calgel Plus colour gels. This can be to simply have a sheer colour, to create a gradation effect, for mixing loose glitter, or for nail art.

076 906 1741

071 304 2845

Soft shades Morgan Taylor and Gelish introduce the Editor’s Picks Spring 2020 Collection, comprising six barelythere and rosy nude shades that are ideal for this time of year. The colours are: Barely Buff; Call My Blush; On Cloud Mine; Going Vogue; It’s Your Mauve; and I Speak Chic.

011 447 0659/3 online @ probeauty.co.za

This lovely and delicate design was created by TANIA BIDDLE and inspired by Spring.

STEP 1.

Apply a base layer and LED cure. Apply two layers of white gel and cure each layer. Cleanse. 2. In a dampen dish, decant a small amount of rubbing alcohol. On a metal plate / colour plate, decant a small amount of white, pink, purple, black and green high pigmented gel. 3. Using a nail art brush, mix a small amount of the pink high pigmented gel with the rubbing alcohol until the desired texture and colour is achieved. Prepare the brush by slightly saturating the bristles with the pink high pigment gel and alcohol. 4. Create five overlapping flower petals, curing between each petal. Apply a little pressure when placing the brush down onto the nail to create a lighter inner petal, while good detail is created outlining the petal. If a softer effect is required, use less colour on the brush. The size of the petals will depend on the required end result. LED cure. 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 using the purple high pigmented gel, but only placing this to the centre of the previously placed pink petals, not covering the entire area. LED cure. 6. Using a clean nail art brush prepared with rubbing alcohol, place green Tania Biddle is the leaves to create colour detail to the design. LED cure. owner of Plush Nails & Beauty 7. Using a fine detailing nail art brush and white high pigmented gel, in Roodepoort, create detail on the flower petals. LED cure. the winner of 8. Using a fine detailing nail art brush and black high pigmented gel, Professional create the detail to outline the petals and fine detail extending from Beautyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nail the flower design. LED cure. Salon of the Year 9. Using a dotting tool, place the dots to add detail to the design. 2020. Biddle is also head of LED cure. education for Bio Sculpture. 10. End with a layer of gloss gel. LED cure and cleanse.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Step by Trends Step

flower ART

Step by Step

Gouache BUTTERFLY

This pretty and colourful nail art design was created by beauty therapist, ELAINE TIMCKE.

Prepare the nail and cure the natural gel application (base layer). Apply a layer of loose glitter mixed with Calgel Mixing Gel (01MIX) and cure. Then apply two layers of Calgel Jelly Colour gel in the colours of your choice, curing between each layer. I used Blue (S01BL), Yellow (S02YE), Orange (S01YE), Pink (S08PI) and Red-pink (S07PI)

Buff to remove the shine and wipe with Calguard liquid on the nail that you want to paint on.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Prepare the following colours of Gouache paint in your paint palette or on a glass plate: white, vermillion or orange, yellow and black.

Gouache paint needs to be diluted with a bit of water. Apply the base layer of your butterfly with the white Gouache paint. Each layer needs to be dry before continuing.

Apply the yellow details on the wings.

Add black line details.

Finish with Calgel top gel and cure.

6 8

Business Step by Trends Step

Apply the orange details to the wings.

Add some final dotting details on the wings with yellow and white.

Elaine Timcke handles the direct sales and marketing at Cal-Mo Pty Ltd.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Q&A

Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to award-winning nail stylist, Juanita Bester, about nail art competitions and dealing with post lockdown challenges in the salon. How important is research in terms of coming up with designs for themed nail competitions?

You recently won NailFile’s Roaring Twenties photographic nail design challenge with a stunning set of nails that totally evoked the era. What sort of research did you do and how did you come up with the ideas for each nail?

Research is one of my favourite parts of entering a themed nail competition. You learn so many new things within that theme that you can also incorporate into your design. The more research you do, the more ideas you get.

“

I would say the most challenging thing has been staying positive. We have so much going on at this point that all we can do is to be there for one another.

How did it feel when you found out that you’d won? I was super excited as this was the first time I entered a NailFile photographic competition.

How many other nail competitions have you entered? As soon as I saw the theme for the competition, I knew I wanted to enter as the fashion of that era has always intrigued me. I also feel that men’s fashion was just as important as women’s fashion in an era like the 1920s. Therefore, I decided to incorporate both sides in my design. I researched a broad spectrum of Twenties fashion and then decided to focus on a specific fashion item per nail. Then I narrowed down my research, finding inspiration pictures for the fashion items I wanted to do per nail.

online @ probeauty.co.za

I had entered a few smaller photographic competitions before and placed in some of them. In 2019 I entered my first live nail art competition at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show and attained first place in the Gel Polish Creations category.

Did you excel in art at school? Even though I’ve always loved art, I did not have art as a subject in school. But art has always been a part of my life. Although I am

blessed with a good eye for art, I feel there’s always room for improvement. Everything I know thus far I’ve learnt from observing amazing artists all around the world.

What first sparked your interest in nail art? I love painting pictures as much as I love painting nails. If art is something you enjoy, why not put it on your nails? In fact, I see nails as little blank canvases that I can paint my creations on. Nail art is such a wide and wonderful maze that you can get lost in. When I was younger, I use to draw pictures on my own nails with toothpicks and nail polish. At one point I just decided that my passion for nails could turn into a career.

65 Business Trends Q&A

Do most of your clients request nail art? Yes, most of them do love nail art. Sometimes they bring pictures for inspiration and sometimes they let me do what I want. My favourite part of the appointment is discussing colour choices and nail art with my clients. We love combining our creative ideas for designs.

Have you noticed any trends in the nail art that your clients request? My clients usually love funky or abstract nail art. I rarely have a client doing a plain colour or French. If we do, we’ll always add a bit of spunk to it.

What is your favourite medium to work with? I love working with gel. There are so many different things you can do with it, in so many various ways. My favourite nail art medium are high pigment gels that I love to paint on nails.

Where do you think nail art is headed in the future? There are so many talented nail artists out there creating new art techniques every single day. I think nail art is going to blow up

in the industry in the future and we’ll see amazing things that we would never have thought that we could do with nails. I can’t wait to see what happens with nail art in the next few years.

Where do you ply your craft? I’ve been a qualified nail tech for five years and in 2017, I joined Andrea Smith at Forever Lavish Nails & Beauty, a home based salon in Krugersdorp. I’m also trained in waxing.

What is your customer service policy? I want my clients to feel happy and relaxed when they leave the salon. Furthermore, I want them to feel comfortable in trusting me with their treatment, knowing that I’ll do my best to get the end result they requested. I always make sure my client is happy with the service they receive before leaving the salon.

busy as before lockdown, I’m lucky to still have a solid client base.

What has been the most difficult thing for you to deal with since reopening? I would say the most challenging thing has been staying positive. We have so much going on at this point that all we can do is to be there for one another. There are so many unknowns that we can only take life day by day. I appreciate every day that I can still work, every day that I am still healthy and most importantly, I appreciate every single client I have.

How did the COVID-19 national lockdown impact on your business? It was very tough in the sense that we could not work at all for nearly three months. But I am very fortunate to still be able to do what I love after returning back to work on 23 June. I was so happy to see my clients again.

How has the influx of clients been to date? Most of my regular clients have returned. Even though I’m not as online @ probeauty.co.za

We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Professional Beauty Sept 2020

Articles inside

In the market

Working on the silhouette

Naturally speaking

A fair prospect

Sunny side up

Crowning glory

A comprehensive, genderspecific facility

Industry news

Feeding the skin

Management during a crisis

Pivoting to a shared economy

Sister act

The client service journey

Distributing cosmetics in the Canadian market