Professional Beauty May 2021

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAILFILE

GEMINI nourishing nail polish from

In this issue...

TREATING WINTER SKIN TOP THERAPIST TIPS CHANGE YOUR MINDSET

MAY 2021 | probeauty.co.za

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20

In this issue...

Regulars

Interview

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26 Talking to…Ansa Bronkhorst

Industry news Local and international news

32

New SAAHSP president

40 Crowning glory New products

39 In the market All the latest launches

Business 17 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

18 Post Brexit cosmetics regulation in the UK and EU How to navigate these complex markets

20 Infinity Aesthetics relocates in midst of pandemic

Spa Focus 30 Shift your focus to one of abundance How changing your mindset can help your business

Feature

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32 Winter is coming!

Treating dry and dehydrated skin

Aesthetic Medicine

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36 Aesthetic therapists reveal their top tips for practicing The secrets to success

22 The parting of ways What to do if your star therapist leaves

24 Send & receive

Nails 41 NailFile Issue 41

emotional needs

online @ probeauty.co.za

Promotional Feature

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Nanoneedling with pHformula’s new Protonpen Yolanda Knott was invited to experience pHformula’s skin resurfacing treatment with their Protonpen nanoneedling, to boost the skin’s cellular communication and ensure deep penetration of the new VITA A sterile trans dermal solution.

My treatment was performed by Carla De Vasconcelos, a clinical aesthetician, and owner of The Skin Studio, at Anti-Aging Art Medical Aesthetics in Johannesburg.

All my skin concerns revolved around lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores and dehydration. Carla suggested that since my skin was lacking in water, she would add hyaluronic acid – this substance is naturally produced by the skin but decreases steadily with age.

Hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge as it absorbs 1,000 times its own weight of water.

She went on to explain that pHformula’s recently launched Protonpen differs from other microneedling devices on the market in that it also offers a nanoneedling option.

Carla explained that nanoneedling is not as intrusive as microneedling because the needle depth is only 0.15mm and doesn’t require an anesthetic. It forces the skin to produce collagen and elastin.

Optimal results are achieved if this treatment is performed regularly (ideally twice a month) and supported with an at home care regime. Carla suggested that I regularly hydrate my skin and protect my skin with my pHformula U.V. protect SPF 50+.

My treatment commenced with pHformula’s E.X.F.O. cleanse – a multi-functional product that cleanses, removes make-up, exfoliates, and acts like a hydrating mask.

Next, in a protocol that is unique to pHformula, Carla tested the permeability of my skin with the S.P. complex to gauge my skin’s

online @ probeauty.co.za

resilience. The test revealed that my A.G.E. resurfacing treatment should be at Level 2. Carla then applied the A.G.E. 2 solution, a resurfacing medium that consists of multiple multi-functional acids at low concentrations to ensure cell stimulation in a safe treatment with anti-inflammatory properties and rapid skin recovery. Although the acids absorb into the epidermis, it activates cytokines (chemical mediators), that in turn stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans in the dermis and improve cell regeneration in the epidermis. Unlike peels, the resurfacing mediums are layer and leave on, thereby ensuring that the acids are bio-available for seven days and their function is extended with a customized homecare prescription.

I was now ready for the nanoneedling. The pHformula VITA A sterile trans dermal solution was applied in droplets onto my skin.

This serum is formulated with slow release 0.14% micro-encapsulated retinol. Carla focused the Protonpen on areas where there were lines and pores. I found the treatment much

more bearable without anesthetic than microneedling is with anaesthetic.

My skin went red from the nanoneedling; this is the desired effect as it means the skin is inflamed and will generate a healing response. Carla then applied the SOS repair mask for 10 minutes. This sterile sheet mask contains niacinamide (vitamin B3), which has an anti-inflammatory action. It also contains jasmine, rose and bellis perennis to address redness and provide a calming effect.

Once the mask had been removed, E.Y.E. recovery cream, N.E.C.K. recovery cream, P.O.S.T. recovery cream and U.V. protect SPF 50+ were applied.

My home care prescription was: E.X.F.O. cleanse; MD CR active recovery (for inflammation); HYDRA concentrated corrective serum, VITA C cream; and U.V. protect SPF 50+.

I was amazed by this treatment – my skin felt hydrated, plumped up and I could immediately see a 100% change in my skin.

Contact pHformula on 063 682 4499 or visit their website at www.phformula.africa

Promotional Feature

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Microneedling stimulates the skin for natural collagen induction and elastin. It triggers a healing response from the body, boosting proton and increased nutrient release in the skin, as well as promoting neo-collagen production. Because the system preserves epidermal integrity, the result of this innovative treatment is an instant glow of rejuvenated skin.

Safe for all skin types and different skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation, acne, tired and sensitive skin. It is ideal for the delicate areas such as the contours of the eyes and lips. Skin concerns like lack of tone, uneven texture, excessive pigmentation, scarring, and loss of elasticity benefit immensely from this innovative skin resurfacing technique.

BENEFITS

• • • • • •

Boosts proton release action in the skin Neo-collagen production Instant glow Increased nutrient release Controlled resurfacing Improves uneven skin tone and texture

ADVANCED TRANS DERMAL SOLUTIONS BENEFITS

VITA A • • • •

Superior anti-ageing treatment containing retinol Fades hyperpigmentation and age spots Simulates collagen production and improves hydration

VITA B3 • A powerful Niacinamide treatment to improve tone and texture • Strengthens skin’s natural barrier • Contains anti-inflammatory and skin brightening properties VITA C • Treatment for advanced skin brightening and rejuvenation • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles and evens out skin tone HA

www.phformula.africa

• Nourishing skin firming treatment for ageing skin • Moisturises, hydrates and assists with wound healing • Reduces wrinkles and increases skin elasticity online @ probeauty.co.za

Welcome

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T

he Professional Beauty team was absolutely delighted to finally be able to host its first physical event in over a year, on 12 April at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg. This was an aesthetics medicine conference and mini-expo that attracted a good number of delegates and exhibitors, taking into account the required social distancing regulation. For a company like Professional Beauty, whose core business is trade shows, not being able to hold a physical event since March 2020 has been an incredibly difficult dynamic to deal with, as it’s like part of the company’s life force was taken away from it. So that’s why the Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Exhibition was such a joyous occasion for us. And, there was a general overall positive buzz at the event, with many delegates saying how great it felt to be at an actual event again. We are now busy planning an industry-wide, all-inclusive beauty event, to be held on 4 and 5 July, also at the Bryanston Country Club.

Our special feature in this issue focuses on how to treat winter skin. The autumn and winter months are bad enough to get through as it is in terms of dropping temperatures, but for me the worst aspect is always how dry the skin gets, particularly if you live in Gauteng. On the upside, this is the time when salons and spas can offer super-hydrating treatments and prescribe powerful moisturisers and serums.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo

NAILFILE

@PROBEAUTYSA GEMINI nourishing nail polish from

In this issue...

TREATING WINTER SKIN TOP THERAPIST TIPS CHANGE YOUR MINDSET

MAY 2021 | probeauty.co.za

Cover source: Photo supplied by Bio Sculpture

Publisher Mark Moloney

011 781 5970

mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

011 781 5970

yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

phil@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970

joanna@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970

stacey@tetradeevents.com

Operations Executive Obey Dube 011 781 5970

obey@probeauty.co.za

Design Saveer Sugreem Philip Woods

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com and www.pixabay.com

News News

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Professional Beauty to host allinclusive industry event in July Following on from the success of the Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Exhibition held on 12 April at Johannesburg’s Bryanston Country Club, Professional Beauty is planning an industry-wide event on 4 and 5 July, at the same venue.

The conference element will comprise three different streams of informative talks – Essential Business; Nail Skills; and Skincare & Advanced Treatments. These will be

repeated on both the days, enabling delegates to get the opportunity to attend at least two streams.

Says Professional Beauty’s commercial director, Phil Woods: “Our Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Exhibition was the first physical event that we’ve been able to hold since the pandemic.

The event attracted a good number of delegates, all in accordance with the social distancing regulation.

Many delegates and exhibitors commented how nice it was to be able to attend an actual, non-virtual event, especially in such picturesque surroundings.

“At our July event, due to current regulations, people will not be able to move from one lecture stream to another on any given day. If you book for one stream, you will need to stay in that one room. However, during the lunchbreaks, delegates will be able to visit other rooms to see the exhibitor stands, as long as the numbers in any one room do not exceed the maximum numbers allowed.”

Conference topics will include: Business management; Staff management; Marketing initiatives; Social media; Innovation; New treatment systems; How best to tackle teenage acne; Active ingredients; How skincare claims are investigated; The perfect C curve; Cuticles – the do’s and don’ts; Myth busting on mixing product; and Perfect nail art every time.

Go to www.probeauty.co.za for further details.

Pandemic sees organic and natural beauty sales grow by 13%

Photo by Karolina Gabrowska from Pexels

online @ probeauty.co.za

Sales of certified organic and natural products have increased for the 10th consecutive year, with The Soil Association’s new Organic Beauty & Wellbeing Report recording a 13% growth in sales of these products.

Half of the consumers surveyed said the COVID-19 pandemic made them more likely to buy organic beauty and wellbeing products. The report also found that one in six consumers now buy organic and natural products, and 28% of those are aged 16–24, the largest age group buying into the market.

Meanwhile, only 9% of those aged 50-plus are buying organic beauty and wellbeing products.

It is evident that the shift to organic and sustainable beauty has been accelerated by online shopping, according to the report, with 28% of consumers saying the move to online shopping made them want to buy organic products.

Half of consumers want to buy beauty and wellbeing products that are better for the environment, with 41% stating that waste packaging is the number-one reason beauty products are bad for the planet.

Meanwhile, 45% agree that organic beauty products are better for the environment, and 56% think beauty brands should do more to reduce their impact on the planet.

(Source: Professional Beauty UK)

Established in 1972 Creators of the Exclusive Hydradermie Treatment 50 Years Professional, always has been…always will be

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Photo by Pavel Danilyuk from Pexels

Government’s Tourism Recovery Plan likely to benefit hotel and resort spas Interventions and enablers outlined in the South African government’s Tourism Sector Recovery Plan will facilitate the preservation of R189 billion of value and help the sector to recover.

“Additionally, it will position the sector for long-term sustainable growth,” Tourism Minister, Mmamoloko Kubayi-Ngubane, said at a media briefing in late April.

She noted that the plan represents the tourism industry’s collective response to the devastation brought by the COVID-19 pandemic on the sector.

“It is a product of extensive industry consultation and reflects the industry’s commitment to deep and intensive collaboration around

a set of clearly defined and specific areas of cooperation.”

Minister Kubayi-Ngubane noted that the COVID-19 pandemic has plunged the sector into unprecedented crisis, both locally and globally, as the sector continues to shed jobs with tourism enterprises in distress and small and medium enterprises being the worst affected. Many are facing the possibility of permanent closure.

Spas situated within hotels and resorts have been severely affected by the pandemic, a case in point being The Saxon Spa, which, like the rest of its hotel property, was closed for a year before reopening on 1 May 2021. Those spas that managed to reopen after lockdown are

Salons look to social media to generate new business Social media reach has overtaken website development as a way for beauty salons to increase new business opportunities, according to a just-released survey.

Some 44% of respondents in a survey conducted by global salon supplies wholesaler, SimplyHair, said they are focusing on growing their businesses’ social media profile this year. Nine out of ten (89%) salon owners believe that social media presence has a strong or very strong influence on how a client chooses a salon.

Commenting on the findings,

Photo by Tim Bennett on Unsplash

Amy Filippaios, founder of SimplyHair, says: “The survey confirms that there’s been a steady increase in the use of social media

operating with reduced staff complements and limiting the number of guests per day to accommodate COVID-19 safety, sanitisation and social distancing protocols.

“Noting the tourism sector’s impact on the wider economy, the Tourism Sector Recovery Plan is aligned to the Economic Reconstruction and Recovery Plan (ERRP), in particular to the ERRP’s priorities in the areas of employment creation; infrastructure investment; green economy or sustainability interventions; inclusion of women and youth; as well as skills development.

“The Tourism Sector Recovery Plan contains a set of interventions to protect and rejuvenate supply, reignite demand and strengthen enabling capability to support the sector’s recovery. Our goal is to preserve jobs and livelihoods within the sector, facilitate the creation of new job opportunities, match demand and supply as well as strengthen transformation in the sector including empowerment of women, youth and people with disabilities in the sector,” KubayiNgubane said. (Source: SAnews. gov.za)

over the past few years, with many beauty businesses using social media accounts as their online shop front, rather than developing their own website,” she says.

She continued: “During the pandemic, use of social media as a whole increased. Salon owners have also recognised the importance of elements including quality photography, branding and digital advertising, which naturally support social media activity. Improving salon aesthetics is also a priority, as well as being a source of social media content and backdrop for photographs, interiors help to build a memorable brand and appeal to consumers who seek shareable experiences,” she added. (Source: Professional Beauty UK) online @ probeauty.co.za

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#SaveRalph short film aims to ban animal cosmetics testing in SA Hollywood filmmakers and movie stars have joined forces with Humane Society International (HSI) to produce a powerful stop-motion animated short film, #SaveRalph, to end cosmetic testing on animals around the world.

Says HSI-Africa campaign manager, Joseph Mayson: “Forty countries across the world have banned animal testing for cosmetics but South Africa isn’t one of them.

According to a local poll, 90% of South African consumers support a ban on using animals in cosmetics testing, while only 72% stated that a

‘no animal testing’ claim is an important factor they consider when buying cosmetics.

“Animal cosmetics testing is still legal in most of the world, and is even making a comeback in some regions, subjecting untold thousands of animals to needless suffering and death. By working together we can ensure that no animal is ever again made to suffer in the name of beauty. It’s easy to assume that companies are the problem, but the truth is they are a vital part of the solution. It’s laws that need to be changed, and

Beauté Pacifique appoints 4th national flagship in SA The South African branch of Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, has appointed the Aesthetics division of TC Studio on the Green Leaves Country Lodge in Hartbeespoort as its 4th national (and North West) flagship skincare clinic.

Aesthetics is run by owner, Stephani Robinson, and her team.

Says Beauté Pacifique’s Wayne La Grange: “We are delighted to online @ probeauty.co.za

announce our latest flaghship.

Green Leaves is a very special place and clients of Aesthetics can enjoy the peace and sounds of the natural surroundings against the majestic Magliesberg backdrop, while enjoying beauty and advanced aesthetic treatments.”

Beauté Pacifique looks forward to launching the new Metamorphose Clinical Dermal Programming treatment there.

industry leaders like Lush, Unilever, P&G, L’Oréal and Avon are working with us to secure meaningful animal testing bans in many of the world’s most influential beauty markets.

We’ve recruited Ralph as our spokesbunny to help get these laws over the finish line.”

Taika Waititi, Ricky Gervais, Zac Efron, Olivia Munn, Pom Klementieff, Tricia Helfer and others have come together to help HSI change this by providing the voices for the #SaveRalph film.

Writer and director Spencer Susser (Hesher, The Greatest Showman) and producer Jeff Vespa (Voices of Parkland) teamed up with the Arch Model studio of puppet maker supreme, Andy Gent, on the production to bring Ralph to life. The film is also being launched in Portuguese, Spanish, French and Vietnamese with Rodrigo Santoro, Gad Elmelah, Denis Villeneuve, George Lopez and others voicing the characters in those languages, and Maggie Q providing a video message of support.

Click here to access the fulllength film.

News

Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

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Born in Turkey, Global Wellness Day is celebrated on the 2nd Saturday of June every year only with complimentary activities around the world.

June 12th, 2021 Want to be a part of the celebrations? e-mail: emmy.stoltz@globalwellnessday.org

online @ probeauty.co.za

GWD 2019

GWD 2019

Call for participation in Global Wellness Day South African spas and wellness centres are invited to participate in the complimentary activities of Global Wellness Day (GWD), which takes place on Saturday, 12 June.

Says GWD South Africa Ambassador, Emmy Stoltz: “We are encouraging all companies in the ‘business of wellness’ to get involved. Interested parties are asked to contact me to organise their GWD paddles and to share their thoughts and plans for activities on the day. GWD collateral can be emailed to all participants to be used or printed locally. Alternatively, items can be shipped to all participants for a

nominal fee.”

Stoltz notes that on the SA Global Wellness Day social media pages (@GWDSA on Facebook and Instagram), several participants have already been secured for SA’s live event running throughout the day (in conjunction with the global event on the main GWD page).

They include Stephanie Grosvenor, who will speak on the topic, How can you live a healthier and better life? Daniella Corder will reveal exercise tips during each phase of your cycle, while Carelene de Jager will present a yoga class.

Bridget Edwards will discuss how to handle stress in these uncertain

times, with Ishana Maharaj covering sleep support exercise.

Stoltz continues: “Last year there were no physical events in South Africa on GWD due to the lockdown and restrictions. GWD did, however, host a 24-hour live stream on the day with various participants, talks and tips from all over the world.”

She points out that GWD is a day to celebrate wellness in all forms and that participants are encouraged to try and promote one or more of the steps the GWD Manifest. These are: Walk for an hour; Drink more water; Don’t use plastic bottles; Eat healthy food; Do a good deed; Have a family meal; and Sleep at 10pm “You could, for instance, host a one-hour walk in a particular area followed by a healthy smoothie afterwards,” continues Stoltz.

“Another GWD activity would be cleaning up a beach, forest or park, or initiating a ‘drink more water’ challenge. One could host a healthy cooking class or smoothie-making class.

“Spas can offer their guests a healthy snack after/ before each treatment on the day and hand out printed copies of the GWD 7-step Manifest to create awareness around wellness. They could also present complimentary talks on living a healthier life. Spa staff can share their tips and GWD photos with their database.”

If you wish to host a GWD event, or participate in one, please email Emmy.Stoltz@globalwellnessday. org #gwd2021

Helia-D moves overseas The formerly Johannesburg-based beauty product distributor, Helia-D International, has moved its operations and production to Europe, to offer a new and unique product range.

Says Helia-D director, Melinda Hazafi-van der Walt: “As with all

new ventures, it takes time to perfect and improve a range which our clients have come to know and love over the past 26 years. We endeavour to offer clients a truly ‘out of this world’ depilatory wax range, with the same quality as before, but with new glamour and

glitz, incorporating a universal product that eclipses the rest.”

Known in South Africa as an expert waxing practitioner and trainer, Hazafi-van der Walt is the creator of the Supernova and Melinda wax ranges, which are distributed nationally and internationally. online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

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Business Trends Business Tips

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online @ probeauty.co.za

ask the

Business Tips Business Business Trends Tips

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EXPERTS Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Image from Pixabay

I am a salon owner wanting to advertise my establishment beyond just using social media for marketing purposes. What mistakes should I avoid in terms of adverts?

Advertising can be the best investment you can make, or it can be a major expense for your business. Ask someone else to test your ads against these six common mistakes below. If you feel at any point that you have to defend or explain something in your ads, then you have a problem.

1. You do not identify and qualify your potential client in your advertising.

Ads are, by their very nature, invasive, as nobody waits for your ad to appear before them. The ad appears in front of somebody who is busy doing something else, either paging through a magazine or scrolling a social media wall.

Your ad needs to tell the viewer in a single view that it is there to deliver an important message to her, and why she should not ignore it.

2. Your potential client doesn’t see in one second what your ad is about.

Generic does not attract attention.

We all have a long list of things requiring our attention and we are always looking for a possible solution. When an ad addresses a specific problem and offers a solution for a problem on our list,

it gets our attention. For example, one more laser clinic doesn’t address any problem or offer any solution. But a laser clinic that specialises in the removal of hair caused by hormonal change after a pregnancy addresses a specific problem. And it offers a solution.

3. You don’t prove to your potential client that you know more and provide a superior service.

Nobody likes to be a ‘lab mouse’.

Your ad needs to tell the viewer that she is not the first and that the solution you offer her has benefited many before her. Once the viewer knows that she is not the first, she wants to know that you are a specialist in your field.

4. Your ad doesn’t invite your client to learn more about you and your services if she is not ready to buy at this very moment.

Only between 1% and 2% of people who view your ad are ready to buy. It is expensive to run ads only catering for this small group of people. You need to provide the viewer who is not ready to buy today, but soon will be, with a way to bond with you.

5. Your ad doesn’t provide the viewer with clear instructions on what to do next and a reason to do it without delay.

We are all conditioned throughout our lives to follow instructions. Do you provide clear instructions in your ad for the viewer to follow?

And do you give the viewer a compelling reason to do so without delay?

6. Your potential client doesn’t know how to make contact with you.

As brainless as this may sound, it is unbelievable how many ads run without visible contact details.

Or the ad may only display a single contact method that is not compatible with your typical client.

Raymond Schoeman is the founder and Head Course Coordinator of LaserCollege, a leading authority in aesthetic laser training. Schoeman started his career in the industry when he opened his first laser clinic in Pretoria in 2000. He is the author of two books: Textbook for Aesthetic Laser Therapy and Aesthetic Laser Treatments – Insider Secrets.

online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

Business Tips Tips Business

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Image by Thanks For your Like from Pixabay

How to navigate cosmetics regulation in the UK and EU after BREXIT TJAŠA GRUM of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd reveals how to deal with these complex markets

O

n 1 January 2021, the Brexit transition period ended and the UK began the year with its own cosmetics regulation. The transition period began following the departure of the UK from the EU on 31 January 2020, and it lasted until the end of December 2020, allowing some time for companies to make final preparations for Brexit.

With the UK having its own cosmetics regulation, it puts an additional burden on companies who sell their product in the UK and EU as they now have to follow two sets of cosmetics regulations.

However, the UK cosmetics regulation more or less mirrors the EU cosmetics regulation 1223/2009, which makes it easier to comply with both regulations, although it online @ probeauty.co.za

does also mean that a lot of work has to be duplicated.

UK Cosmetics regulation Firstly, it is important to emphasise that the UK cosmetics regulation applies to Great Britain, which includes England, Scotland, and Wales. It does not apply to Northern Ireland, which still follows the EU cosmetics regulation 1223/2009 as it is specified in the Northern Ireland Protocol.

UK Cosmetics Regulation is included within Schedule 34 of the UK Statutory Instrument (SI) Product Safety and Metrology et.

(Amendment etc.) (EU Exit) regulation 2019.

Although we said that the UK cosmetics regulation is very similar to the EU cosmetics regulation, it requires certain changes, which companies have to be aware of. This

With the UK having its own cosmetics regulation, it puts an additional burden on companies who sell their product in the UK and EU as they now have to follow two sets of cosmetics regulations.

includes a new cosmetic notification through the UK notification portal, the need for a UK-based responsible person, and re-labelling to include new RP details and country of origin, where needed.

Responsible person (RP) and Product information file (PIF) If companies want to sell their products in the EU and UK market, they have to make sure they have a responsible person (RP) based in the EU and one in the UK. If products are sold only in the EU, then the company only has to assign an EU-based responsible person to their products. On the other hand, if the company only sells their products to the UK, they only need a UK-based responsible person for their products. The role of the responsible person can be taken up by the manufacturer (if they are based in the EU for products sold in the EU or in the UK for products sold in the UK). If not, then they need to assign this role to a third party, who has to accept the role in writing.

Like in the EU, products sold in the UK also require a product information file (PIF). PIF must be made available at the UK RP address, and it has to be in English.

Additionally, an RP has to ensure that the safety assessments are done by safety assessors, whose qualifications are recognisable in the UK. The same applies to the EU. UK safety assessors have to check if their qualifications are recognisable in the EU.

Labelling – country of origin and RP name and address Since the UK regulation lays down the requirement for the UK RP, this also means that the label of the product sold in the UK has to bear the UK RP name and address. The same requirement applies in the EU, meaning that products sold in the EU need to have the EU RP name and address on their labels. If a product is sold in the EU and UK, then the label needs to include both the EU and UK RP name and address.

All products sold in Great Britain (GB) need to bear the name and address of the UK Responsible Person from 31 December 2022.

Another labelling requirement to keep in mind is the country of origin.

Now that the UK is a third country for the EU and vice versa, products made in the UK need to bear on their labels ‘Made in the UK’ if they are sold in the EU. On the other hand, products made in any of the EU Member states and sold in the UK need to have the specific country of origin on their labels.

The last labelling requirement for

If companies want to sell their products in the EU and UK market, they have to make sure they have a responsible person (RP) based in the EU and one in the UK.

the UK is applicable only to aerosols, which under Schedule 13 of the Product Safety and Metrology SI require the addition of ‘UKCA compliance mark’. This is an equivalent of the ‘reversed epsilon’, which is known under the EU cosmetics regulation.

The UKCA marking is compulsory from 1 January 2022. Until then, aerosols sold in GB can carry either the reversed epsilon or the UKCA mark.

Until 31 December 2022, the UKCA marking may be affixed to a label affixed to or a document accompanying the dispenser. From 1 January 2023, the UKCA marking must be affixed directly to the product.

Submit Cosmetic Product Notifications (SCPN) As from the first day of 2021, the UK also has its own cosmetic notification portal called Submit Cosmetic Product Notifications (SCPN). Every product sold in the UK needs to be notified to SCPN before being placed on the market.

The notification has to be done by the responsible person, the same as in the EU. SCPN allows the RPs to upload

existing notifications from the EU notification portal – Cosmetic product notification portal (CPNP).

The RPs have the option to export the notifications from the CPNP and upload them on the SCPN. This shortens the time needed for the notification.

The following information is required for a cosmetic product notification via SCPN • the category and name of the cosmetic product • the name of the responsible person • where the Product Information File (PIF) is kept • details of a named contact for urgent enquiries • details of any nanomaterials the cosmetic product contains • details of any carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction (CMR) substances the cosmetic product contains • the chemical details of substances • a summary of the ingredients • a product’s label • a photograph of the cosmetic product packaging.

For new products, which are placed on the GB market after 31 December 2020 and have not been notified on the EU’s CPNP, RPs need to submit new notifications, which include the above-mentioned list of documents. The notifications have to be done before the products can be placed on the GB market.

For existing products, which are already present on the GB market and have been notified through the EU’s CPNP before 1 January 2021, the deadline for notification to the SCPN is 31 March 2021.

Tjaša Grum has a Bachelor’s degree in Cosmetic Science and a Master’s degree in Biochemistry from the University of Ljubljana, Slovenia. She is a Regulatory Consultant at CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd, which offers regulatory and testing services for cosmetic products.

Email tjasa@ceway.eu

online @ probeauty.co.za

BusinessTips Tips Business

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Salon Focus Salon Focus

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Shazia Khan and Fairuz Amgee

Infinity Aesthetics relocates in midst of pandemic JOANNA STERKOWICZ talks to salon owner, FAIRUZ AMGEE, about how uprooting her business and expanding just after lockdown was lifted last year, has paid off

online@ @probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za online

I

nfinity Aesthetics first opened its doors in July 2019, within a hair salon precinct in Greenside, Johannesburg.

When South Africa went into the COVID-19 lockdown in late March 2020 for five weeks, sadly the hair salon closed its doors permanently.

Says Infinity Aesthetics owner, Fairuz Amgee: “I’m not one to give up, especially as I have great faith in the beauty industry because people still need the kind of services we offer. So, it was necessary to find a new location for my salon speedily. Luckily, one of my brand suppliers, Debbie Wolfendale of DermaClinical, knew of a space within the Tanaz complex on Corlett Drive in Illovo.

This space was previously occupied by the Clarins Salon, which no longer exists. I went to view the space and absolutely loved it.

“While the prospect of reopening after lockdown was

While the prospect of reopening after lockdown was already certainly daunting, restarting my business in a new venue and suburb added more stress to the situation.

already certainly daunting, restarting my business in a new venue and suburb added more stress to the situation. However, I had such confidence in our machines, products and the service we offer, that I went ahead resolutely. The move only took a few days as I hate wasting time.

Most of my clients have followed me to the new location and they absolutely love it.”

Infinity Aesthetics reopened on 4 August 2020. Amgee continues: “I was very positive about reopening – we have the best products and the best service and giving up was not an option at all.

Despite the fact that we had a long waiting list by the time we reopened, I will admit that business has been slow. However, appointments have settled into a steady flow and I’m confident about the future.”

Existing clients had messaged Amgee’s head therapist and salon manager, Shazia Khan, all through lockdown. On reopening, new clients were recruited via Facebook, Instagram, word of mouth and the salon’s website.

The majority of Infinity Aesthetics clients are aged between 20 and 40, although the salon does attract some teenagers.

On the other end of the spectrum, there is one client who is 80 years old.

Our clients were delighted when they heard that we had added the new services, as they had expressed a desire for these services before while at the old location.

Now clients book in for a range of treatments on the same day.

Prior to the move, the salon was solely devoted to laser hair removal, using the Soprano ICE Platinum laser. Due to the fact that the new space is much bigger (i.e. four treatment rooms), Infinity Aesthetics now offers a full range of beauty services, apart from nails as there is a nail salon next door.

“Our clients were delighted when they heard that we had added the new services, as they had expressed a desire for these services before while at the old location. Now clients book in for a range of treatments on the same day,” comments Amgee.

She plans to add more staff members to the team post COVID. In addition to the Soprano ICE Platinum laser, Infinity Aesthetics has several other machines, including an IPL Ellipse Nordlys, SIX Microhydrabrasion, and the Norvell Spray Tanning system. The salon offers collagen induction therapy (microneedling), dermaplaning, facials, chemical peels, herbal peels, massages, body wraps, exfoliation, spray tanning and lash lifts.

Skincare brands include Dr Schrammek, SIX, Spalicious, DermaClinical, No Grow and Motherkind.

UNIQUE SELLING POINT

SAFETY PROTOCOLS Amgee notes that clients were indeed nervous to come back to the salon after lockdown because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

“It was necessary to explain our strict COVID protocols to each client in detail,” comments Amgee.

“We regularly fog the salon and we also have a machine that emits an anti-viral spray in all areas. These measures are in addition to having sanitisers and thermometers. Each client is given new bedding, with plastic covers that are always sanitised. We don’t reuse any towels or covers. There is a 30-minute break between clients for cleaning and sanitisation

TREATMENT MENU ENHANCEMENT

protocols and we only accommodate a single client at a time.”

Unfortunately Infinity Aesthetics experienced a setback in December, when Khan tested positive for COVID-19. Amgee closed the salon for a month but continued to post regular updates on social media. “It’s very important that people trust you,” she stresses.

Amgee believes that one of the factors that sets Infinity Aesthetics apart in the market is its welcoming atmosphere.

“When people walk in here they relax, as we’re not stiff and formal like other salons. Furthermore, we don’t make promises that we can’t keep and Shazia [Khan] is always there to answer clients’ queries, even after hours. All of our products are good and we don’t compromise on machines or treatments. I have clients in Pretoria that come all this way for their services. In fact, we even have a client who is based in Malawi,” she concludes.

online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za online

Salon Focus Focus Salon

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Business BusinessTips Tips

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The parting of ways

Beauty business expert, LIZ MCKEON, provides tips on what to do if your most in-demand therapist leaves

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hen your superstar therapist walks into your office, closes the door, sits down and asks if you can talk, you get that sinking feeling in your stomach telling you what is coming next…..she is leaving.

It’s natural to take their resignation personally and to panic and get upset. You may feel angry, disappointed, confused and even betrayed.

However, now is not the time for these emotions as you have a business to run and clients to keep. Instead, stay positive, calm and focused on your salon.

Don’t let your star therapist’s resignation get to you. Accept that not everyone is committed to your business for life and that’s ok. As the business owner, you are probably giving at least 10 years of your life to working really hard on a single goal – turning something you are passionate about into a successful business. And, you are willing to make a lot of sacrifices in the pursuit of that goal. It is unrealistic to expect that of anyone else who isn’t the business owner.

PERSONAL GOALS Your top performers don’t just work hard on your business. They also work hard on themselves and are constantly working to better themselves and their position in life. You can (and should) help them to achieve online @ probeauty.co.za

Photo by Keagan Henman

No matter where the therapist is going to or what the circumstances of their departure are, do not let your team gossip to clients.

their own personal goals, but the reality is that you simply can’t provide that for everyone.

For many employees, you don’t have what they’re looking for in their next career step, whether it’s a management role or any number of other roles that just don’t exist in a small company.

If you want to hire the best, expect that they will behave like

talented, ambitious people do.

Sometimes they will outgrow the role you’ve given them. If you can’t provide their next step, then they need to move on to where they will get their needs met.

Acknowledge that they have worked hard and brought value to you and your team. Maybe they will again someday but for now, accept that their time with your business is over. So wish them well and mean it. Accept that despite your best efforts, employees will move on.

REMAINING STAFF Next, start to focus on protecting your salon business from unnecessary employee churn. No single employee should hold the keys to the kingdom of your business. If they do, then you take too much of a financial hit when they leave.

A useful exercise that you can do in this situation is to ask yourself: ‘If employee X moved on tomorrow, what would that do to us?’ Then think about that for every single person on your payroll. If your business is too reliant on one individual, start to upskill other team members and spread the load.

Not letting it get to you means putting things into context, so you can go home and switch off.

When an employee leaves, you will get over it, your salon will get over it and all will be fine again.

5 STEPS If your star therapist decides to leave, move quickly and do the following.

1

Contact the therapist’s clients immediately It is preferable that the clients hear the news directly from you and it gives you a chance to book them in with another member of the team. If you cannot contact them by phone, then a letter or email is another good way to get in touch. A text is too short and impersonal and it may send out

the wrong message as it might look like you’re not that bothered about their custom.

2

What to say to clients Stay positive and keep the message simple. Remember that the star therapist’s clients are the salon’s clients. The client doesn’t need to know the details just that you will continue to look after them at your salon. Acknowledge that you are sad to see the person leave, but you wish them all the very best, and now back to you and your next appointment…

3

Manage the gossip!

No matter where the therapist is going to or what the circumstances of their departure are, do not let your team gossip to clients. Give your team their instructions. If necessary, give your team – particularly your reception staff – a script, so they have a well-rehearsed response at the ready. Some clients may feel a little let down, so it is important to manage the situation.

4

Social media Keep an eye on your social media accounts, just in case clients are being poached via this channel. Now is the perfect time to increase your own marketing and shout about just how fantastic your salon is.

5

Pull out all the stops Do everything you can to keep your clients, but if they follow the therapist, don’t give up – continue to market to those clients and make it easy for them to return to your salon.

Remember, you are an amazing entrepreneur and this is just a bump in the road! In no time at all your salon will be back to normal. Everybody is replaceable.

Accept that not everyone is committed to your business for life and that’s ok.

EXIT INTERVIEWS: THE INSIDER’S GUIDE If the departing employee agrees to an ‘exit interview’, this is an opportunity not to be missed. Exit interviews are useful as they do the following • Provide an opportunity to ‘make peace’ with the disgruntled employee • Are seen as a positive activity by existing staff • Provide relevant and useful data for future training needs • Might even result in giving you a chance to retain your superstar therapist • Are a unique chance to survey and analyse the opinions of departing employees, who are generally more forthcoming, constructive and objective than staff still in their jobs • Hearing and handling feedback is a powerful development process for the salon manager.

Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. liz@lizmckeon.com

online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

BusinessTips Tips Business

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Business Tips

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Send &

Receive

With many of our clients and team members still reeling from the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and facing limited social interaction, it’s important we listen and respond to their emotional needs, writes HELLEN WARD

Photo by Brett Jordan on Unsplash

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hatever might be happening at the moment, at least 2020 is now firmly behind us, even if the long-term ramifications of the coronavirus pandemic are not.

The emotional toll of Covid-19 is still alive and kicking, even if the longed-for vaccine hopes to kick the virus down the road until herd immunity properly overtakes it.

Speaking with my best friend online @ probeauty.co.za

Heather recently, she was describing a family member as being ‘permanently on send, never on receive’. We were laughing, talking about how some people are terrible listeners but great talkers; how even those close to us sometimes fail to really hear us among all the noise they are making – missing the vital clues that we train our teams to watch for, which hone their consulting skills.

But our conversation seriously

Salons are not just about delivering hair and beauty treatments, they have proved themselves to be a community service.

Business BusinessTips Tips

25 25 got me thinking. Now, more than ever, if you’re a manager of people, you need to be firmly in receive mode; listening for the clues and hoping by just being there, and being a sympathetic ear, you can help ensure the wellbeing of your team, emotionally as well as performance-wise.

Long-term impact One of my oldest friends, Ali, works in social services, managing a team of people in her county dealing with all types of domestic abuse and family issues.

Her job is extremely challenging and she has always worked from home for the majority of her working week. The real toll of coronavirus lockdown 2.0 will not be fully known for some time to come, she tells me.

Children of abusers and abused partners will die as a result of zero interaction with, and therefore intervention, from the outside world. Abusers and those who use coercive behaviours with their family and partners will have maximised the controlling benefits that lockdown brings, and working from home is undeniably a contributing factor.

In the UK’s recent lockdown 2.0, I decided that our small crack squad of senior managers, rather than Zooming a few hours a week to catch up, should go into the office – more for the social interaction than anything work related.

“Good shout,” said Ali; it’s proven that the small photocopier moments, the chats in the staff room, the seemingly unimportant banter about what we’ve been watching on Netflix or other little anecdotes is the very thing that is vital for our social interaction, and, therefore, our sanity.

Home working Another friend, Pat, does the accounts for a fast-food restaurant chain. Finding out their head office, where she worked, was closing for good has floored

Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay

People are not designed to live in isolation.

How many times do we hear from clients that the therapist’s couch is much more than a revitalising facial?

her. The company was forced to make redundancies, as many have been, so she, as a single mother, has turned her small living room into an office and now she is doing the work of five former colleagues with two synced giant computer screens. Poor time management hasn’t helped – she regularly finds herself doing emails at stupid o’clock, failing to compartmentalise her work-life balance and not taking regular breaks.

Some days she hasn’t even been outside, bar school drop off and pick up. Food shopping is budgeted carefully so monthly online grocery shops help control her funds. But the lack of interaction with other adults has left her mental health in tatters.

She longs to go back to her office, where work is fitted into the structured working week and that is where her job role finishes.

We’re lucky that, as a sector, working from home isn’t an option for most of us. The image of how permanent home working

will have affected us in just a few short years’ time is truly scary.

Fatigued humans shuffling around in slippers and tackling obesity, their mental state in dire straits.

Human connection People are not designed to live in isolation. How many times do we hear from clients that the therapist’s couch is much more than a revitalising facial? We are, as one of my regular clients termed it, an escape from Covid-19 angst – a place where the world feels comfortably normal.

Salons are not just about delivering hair and beauty treatments, they have proved themselves to be a community service. No business owner can take responsibility for their staff’s mental health outside the workplace, but ensuring we listen, look for the signs, and above all invite the discussion, may just prove an invaluable and severely lacking element of our roles as leaders.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Send your feedback to hellen@ professionalbeauty.co.uk

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Interview Interveiw Interview

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Talking to…

Ansa Bronkhorst JOANNA STERKOWICZ talks to ANSA BRONKHORST, the newly appointed president of SAAHSP – The Professional Body for Skin, Body & Nail Care – about the way forward for the organisation and the industry

When did your appointment as SAAHSP president take effect and how long is your term?

It became effective in February 2021. A SAAHSP president is appointed for a 3-year period, thereafter they can be re-elected for another 3-year period.

As someone who is a qualified aesthetic therapist with a great love for education and the upliftment of the industry, and as a director on the SAAHSP board for the past 18 months, you seem eminently qualified to take on the role as president.

Please comment.

My passion for the industry has grown over the years into a commitment of wanting to make a difference. Furthermore, my previous experience academically, as well as being a part of the industry as an advanced aesthetic online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

therapist, has given me another view of the educational side, as well as the ethical side of the industry.

Working abroad has focused my attention on the many unregulated individuals, salons and schools that are begging for guidance. That is why I am here – representing those who do not have a voice, including qualified therapists, salon owners and students.

What is the function of SAAHSP? We promote and develop the Professional Body for the Skin, Body and Nail Care Industry, regulating, developing and guiding qualified therapists, students, affiliates, corporates and providers to maintain ethical conduct and high standards in their scope of practice, fostering a professional and unified service to the consumer.

Our mission is to enhance educational and practicing standards at all levels in the industry

in accordance with national and international trends, needs and developments.

How does SAAHSP go about uplifting the standards in the industry?

We have a board of directors that works tirelessly behind the scenes to ensure that all standards are up to date and guided to our members.

The portfolios of these directors are handled as follows • Compliance – health & safety in the workplace; legal compliance; risk management system; standard operating procedures; grading • Ethics – deals with the ethical behaviour of therapists in the workplace to ensure work inside scope of practice • Education – ensure compliance with Services Seta, CIDESCO/ SAAHSP; exam requirements; student registration; designations; CPD (Continuing Professional Development) upskilling

• Membership – deals with members; marketing; Skillzbook for CPD upskilling Lastly, we liaise with many industry experts and stakeholders, to maintain the highest standards of ethical conduct.

What are the benefits of belonging to SAAHSP? Belonging to a Professional Body like SAAHSP shows your commitment to the industry. It means that you care about ethical conduct and high standards. In addition, it shows that you believe in upskilling and always gaining new knowledge. Above all, it shows that you care about working in the professional sector as a qualified individual.

Some people in the industry have questioned the relevance of SAAHSP, given its low membership numbers relative to the size of the industry. How would you respond to this?

When we are children, we question the relevance of listening to our parents because we cannot yet see what they teach us, where they guide us, or the relevance of discipline. That is the same with a Professional Body like SAAHSP. People question us because they do not see the importance of what we do. But when we are not there, there will be no-one fighting to uplift and uphold standards. The Professional Body builds the foundation for the education sector.

SAAHSP’s mission is to enhance educational and practicing standards at all levels in the industry in accordance with national and international trends, needs and developments.

We encourage professionalism in each qualified individual and we support and guide these individuals to do their part.

Our biggest obstacle is not being a statutory body, which means we cannot enforce anything onto an individual. We are not policemen, but we are there to take hands and support those who care for the industry.

We started this year off with a whole new board of directors who are all passionate about the industry. They are all there voluntarily to make a difference.

Does SAAHSP have a strategy for increasing membership numbers?

Our strategy is not as such to market to new members, but rather to uphold and maintain relationships with the current members, and by that we do grow in numbers. We are not about quantity, but quality.

How many members do you currently have?

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, we have lost a few members, which is understandable, but we have also seen a tremendous increase in entrepreneurs, starting their own businesses. These members have shown their commitment by applying to offer CPD courses, or just in general by supplying products to the industry.

We register about 700 students yearly from training schools and have had a huge increase in corporate membership applications.

But I do think numbers are irrelevant, as mentioned previously.

Images by spabielenda from Pixabay

Images by spabielenda from Pixabay

Please explain how the SAAHSP Compliance Programme works.

The Compliance Programme is an important tool that supports the salon/ clinic/ spa in terms of complying to health & safety risks in their work environment. It is educational – a legal compliance system that stores all legal documents, as well as a risk management, for your environment.

This system contains all necessary online @ probeauty.co.za

nterview Interview

25 27

Interview Interview

26 28 inspection documents to comply legally in accordance with the Occupational Health and Safety Act. Please note that this programme is not just offered to SAAHSP members, everyone is able to use the system to maintain their business compliance.

How closely does SAAHSP work with the Services Seta (Sector Education and Training Authority)?

Our working relationship is extremely close and well received from both parties. As the QCTO (Quality Council for Trades & Occupations) is the regulating body for Services Seta and SAAHSP in terms of accreditation and qualification development, it is imperative that both parties ensure that they uphold the same standard in terms of quality assurance.

SAAHSP also assists any providers who seek accreditation with Services Seta to get them in contact with the correct department and ensure they follow processes and protocols.

What is SAAHSP’s link to CIDESCO and why is this important?

A part of SAAHSP is the CIDESCO Section South African, which responsible for the CIDESCO Programmes offered in South Africa.

How does the CPD Programme work?

We implemented the CPD Programme to assist and encourage members to upskill regularly and never stop learning. As soon as a student/ member is being awarded a designation, they must obtain 50 CPD points yearly to ensure their designation status remains unchanged. These are upskilling programmes offered by corporate members, schools, or training institutions. The system we use is called Skillzbook, where they can log their own CPD, review and see different CPD skills programmes offered to obtain these CPD points.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Photo by Raphael Lovaski on Unsplash

Our biggest obstacle is not being a statutory body, which means we cannot enforce anything onto an individual. We are not policemen, but we are there to take hands and support those who care for the industry.

What sort of feedback have you had from members about how the COVID-19 pandemic has affected their businesses?

Quite a lot of our members were impacted by the pandemic, but we have also seen a brilliant ‘fight back’ from our industry. There has been a tremendous upsurge of entrepreneurs who decided to survive. Lately, it seems as if the importance of our field has been noticed and a lot of these salons/ clinics/ spas have been blessed with fully booked schedules and treatment rooms.

Sadly though, many of our salons had to close their doors, leaving qualified, passionate therapists out there, several needing to provide for others while not having jobs. Many of these passionate therapists did upskilling courses/ webinars that were freely available online during lockdown.

From SAAHSP’s point of view, the pandemic has changed our views of the industry and how we service this industry. During lockdown we were not able to do what we are taught to do – touch. We had to

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

think of innovative ways of ‘touching’ our clients, whether it was by sending WhatsApp messages, doing online consultations, or sending DIY beauty videos.

The pandemic forced us to learn to teach others via online sessions, and how to engage with our students without face-to-face contact. We had to change our ‘Hands of Touch’ to ‘Hands of Reach’.

This meant reaching out not only to our clients, but also to our fellow comrades in the industry to stand in unity as never before.

Pandemic aside, what would you say are the biggest challenges facing the industry today?

SAAHSP is unfortunately not a statutory body, therefor we cannot enforce any rules and regulations on someone. We are only there to guide and lead the way for them to follow in our footsteps. This has been identified as being of the utmost importance for our industry to survive and strive. Public communication and participation are key to the survival of our industry.

29 Interview

o n y a S r e t n i w to . . . s e blu Why not add RefectoCil’s Care Range products into your beauty routine this winter for some extra TLC?

Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Spa Focus Focus Spa

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Shift your focus to one of abundance MARISA DIMITRIADIS reveals how changing your mindset when times are tough can open up your business to new possibilities

“I’m working so hard but not making enough money!” Sound familiar?

In the past two or three weeks I have had at least 40 messages or calls from industry professionals using these exact words, so I decided to detail a few tips towards starting to change this scenario.

Firstly, stop saying or thinking that you are not making enough money.

It all starts with mindset and thoughts. I can just imagine some of you rolling your eyes now and saying what nonsense, as thoughts have nothing to do with reality. Well, you are wrong. The first step you can take towards changing how much money you are making is by thinking abundantly. And don’t ever say the words, “I am not making enough money”.

The definition of the word abundance is – a very large quantity of something, while the word scarcity is defined as – the state of being in short supply.

Abundance vs scarcity are two mindsets that you get to choose to believe. Let me give you some examples.

Scarcity is when you are constantly thinking that times are online @ probeauty.co.za

Image by John Hain from Pixabay

Upsells on every single treatment are easy if the team is trained on how to do it. Sell treatments from most profitable to least profitable. getting tougher and that it’s harder to make money in our industry.

Scarcity is avoiding risk and fearing change. Scarcity is focused constantly on the bank balance

Abundance is welcoming competition and, in fact, regarding it as inspiration. Abundance believes the best is yet to come and that the pie is growing. Abundance shares knowledge and freely offers to help others.

State of mind Your state of mind does not need to match what is actually currently happening in your current circumstances. You might very well be in the middle of a massive cash flow crunch and having staff challenges that are real and

happening. But, if you continue to make decisions based on ‘not having enough money’, well then you will never get out of the situation because you are continuously focused on the same thoughts of watching cash flow and not having enough money. Sound familiar maybe?

So, how do you change this?

Simple, shift your focus. How do you do this? I am not saying lie to yourself and pretend it’s not happening, however you can change your state of mind and then your thoughts have the ability to keep you focused on the possibilities.

Opportunities vs threats If you believe the best is yet to come and you focus your energies on opportunities rather than threats, then you will most likely make it through your cash flow crunch.

Make a list of what you will be doing with the money that is going to come into the business.

A big part of having an abundance mindset is the ability to focus on what you already have and being grateful for it.

Gratitude is about having appreciation for all the good things in your business and your life and the lessons that you have learned along the way. When you focus on the good feelings you get when you show gratitude, the positive feelings will increase and so will all the other good things because you are going to be more aware of them. When you become more aware of all the good things, you feel more abundant! What a brilliant spin off!

Sense of worth Lastly, accept that creating more abundance starts with a deep sense of worth. You must believe that you deserve abundance in your life.

When you believe that you deserve to have a lot more and that there is more than enough to go around, then this abundance mindset creates more opportunities, opens up creativity and more possibilities.

Product is the main expense in any spa/ salon business. Check your

saying, ‘I have cut everywhere I can’, well, look again and go and find another 10% to cut.

Increase revenue

Image by Shan Ejai from Pixabay

If you believe the best is yet to come and you focus your energies on opportunities rather than threats, then you will most likely make it through your cash flow crunch.

brand profit margins. No matter how much you like a brand, now is the time to partner with profitable brands that are priced right and that will support you with excellent value promotions that will create sales.

I speak to salon owners who think their brands are profitable until I ask what the percentage cost of goods for a treatment is and they are not sure, or they think that 30% to 40 % is a good percentage cost of goods.

Well, it’s not. A 10% to 20% maximum cost of goods average is where you should be, with retail at 50% to 55% cost of goods. Also, supporting local suppliers is a sustainability initiative on its own, so consider carefully where you can rather support your local suppliers.

Cut expenses Get ruthless and look at everything from consumables usage and pricing, laundry costs, insurance, Wifi, rent, staff salaries and so much more. At this point I am sure you are

Get obsessed. Sit with your team and until you have a solid plan on how to increase revenue by at least 20%, don’t stop. It IS possible.

Retail is a huge opportunity if you have the right brands at the right price with the right margins. Upsells on every single treatment are easy if the team is trained on how to do it.

Sell treatments from most profitable to least profitable. Do you have a list like this? The list should be at reception and with each therapist so everyone knows which treatments make the most money. Sell those first.

Change your treatment offering to meet the ‘unmet’ needs of the market and watch your turnover sky rocket. The bigger the gap between cutting expenses and increasing revenue, the bigger the profit. It’s that simple – the expenses need to go down and the revenue needs to go up, and the profit should grow bigger.

Training How much attention to training are you giving your team or yourself, if you are a solo business? No matter how long you have been in the industry, you simply cannot know it all and what’s most important about training is the morale boost and mental stimulation it gives. Training makes you think about ideas and stimulates brain activity.

The above are simple but powerful tools you can analyze and implement today and I guarantee you will see a difference in your business in as little as two weeks.

But you need to be obsessed and have razor focus.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

SpaFocus Focus Spa

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Skincare

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Winter is coming!

As if to add insult to injury, the cold weather brings with it harsh dry air, which wreaks havoc on the complexion.

Here we look at the products some top brands recommend to mitigate the effects of winter on the skin

Photo by Chalo Garcia from Pexels

W

ith winter fast approaching, salons will typically start to see more clients with dry skin conditions and concerns.

Say the experts at Esse: “The skin is dynamic and will change according to its environment, so if we are treating a client who is experiencing increased dryness, it might be necessary to alter their current skincare routine. This will ensure that we are able to maintain

online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

a healthy barrier to keep the skin nourished and protected throughout the colder months.

“Now would be a good opportunity to reassess your client’s skin and make any changes, if necessary, to their current regime.

First, determine whether the client is experiencing dryness (lack of oil) or if the skin is just in need of extra moisture as there are obvious signs of dehydration. Dryness and dehydration are often linked, however they can require different types of products to correct.

“To reduce TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and further dryness, the focus should be on keeping the skin’s barrier intact. It is key not to over cleanse and to use a gentle cleanser free of any harsh cleansing agents. If the client is experiencing some flakiness or uneven texture associated with dryness, then they might need to gently exfoliate the skin once a week, which will help with the absorption of their treatment products.”

Business Skincare Trends Skincare

33 Guinot Guinot’s Bioxygene Range is ideal for maintaining radiance during winter as skin can become dull.

Bioxygene Cream combats environmental irritants related to lifestyle and is formulated with Pro-Oxygene, which helps increase the oxygenation of skin cells for radiant skin. Hydrocyte Complex intensely moisturises the skin, while vitamin E contains anti-free radical properties.

The Serum from the Bioxygene range is formulated to preserve a healthy and radiant complexion and combat external irritants.

Detoxilline detoxifies the skin, while purisoft (moringa seed) protects skin against damage caused by pollutants, including exhaust fumes, smoke and dust.

Also from Guinot, Age Logic Rich is the perfect moisturiser for mature skin, making it visibly more youthful and properly nourished.

ATP-Actinergie provides essential energy for vital cell functions and improves cellular oxygenation, boosting the metabolism, while rambutan leaf extract facilitates collagen and elastin fibre synthesis and cohesion, to firm and smooth wrinkles.

Rich in saturated fatty acids, Liposkin helps to rebuild the skin barrier and intensely nourish the skin. Pro-ceramides boost the synthesis of major lipid components (ceramides) that aid the skin to restructure the intercellular cement.

Photo by Tubarones Photography from Pexels

pHformula From pHformula, the HYDRA concentrated corrective serum is described as ‘a winter must-have’ as it replenishes skin moisture with the hyaluronic acid complex that contains both high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

The product is also formulated with glycosaminoglycans and alpinia galanga leaf extract to retain moisture in the skin and plump fine lines and wrinkles. 3D HYDRA complex, consisting of 3D HYDRA, natural moisturising factors and skin-identical ceramides, provides 3-dimensional hydration to the skin.

“What makes the HYDRA concentrated corrective serum different is the Cell-2Cell Messenger

complex that improves cell communication between the keratinocytes, as well as between the keratinocytes and fibroblasts to ultimately improve cell functioning,” say the pHformula team.

The ferulic acid complex, consisting of ferulic acid and vitamin E, assists with superior restoration of the skin and protection against free radicals and lipid peroxidation. This complex will not only fight premature ageing, but also prevent sun damage and treat hyperpigmentation.

Matis National education manager for Matis, Lisa Charlton, recommends three products to treat winter skin, including Densifiance-Night.

She says: “This night cream is targeted at mature skins that are struggling with poor elasticity and online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za online

Business Skincare Trends Skincare

32 34 an uneven skin complexion. An overnight restructuring treatment, it acts to firm, smooth, and even out skin tone, revealing a better complexion each morning.”

The highly active formula pairs DensiDerm technology (reinforced action on collagen and elastin) with glycolic acid (action on the appearance of age spots).

Matis’ Night-Reveal 10 is also an overnight treatment product in the form of a mask that helps to speed up cell renewal and aid the fight against the visible signs of ageing by being a non-invasive alternative to cosmetic surgery.

Charlton notes that glycolic acid is combined with hyaluronic acid to re-plump the skin and reduce wrinkle depth. “The complexion is evened out and dark skin spots are lightened. There are visible results from the very first morning:” Lastly, Nutri-Mood is a climatic protective moisturiser that protects the capillary structure in the skin against harsh environmental conditions. Its rich, creamy texture envelops skin in a protective cocoon. The synergistic action of its active ingredients – SurviSystem3 (a Matis ingredient), kokum and shea butter – arm the skin to withstand external factors.

These include cold, wind, dryness, bad weather, sudden changes in temperature, etc. Skin is protected, nourished, more supple and feels more comfortable.

Esse Moisturisers containing vegetable oils and omegas to nourish and repair the skin will help to bring comfort to and maintain a healthy barrier in winter, according to the Esse team.

“Skincare containing pre and probiotics are key, as these beneficial microbes will support the skin’s microbiome and further reduce TEWL”, they say. Esse has a selection of moisturisers that will help to support a dry skin. The Esse Rich, Esse Nourish and Esse Ultra moisturisers all contain these key ingredients to nourish and protect the skin throughout the dryer online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

winter months – making them the ideal winter skin saviours.

Another beneficial ingredient to use when treating dry and dehydrated skin is hyaluronic acid, as it is intensely hydrating, with an instant plumping effect. It also boosts penetration of other actives and follow-on products. The Esse Hyaluronic Serum is 100% natural and certified organic. In addition to hyaluronic acid, it also contains probiotics and antioxidant rich rooibos and olive leaf extract to intensely hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation and slow down skin ageing.

Using a mask once or twice a week can further benefit and bring comfort to a dry skin. The Esse Cream Mask deeply feeds and softens the skin, with pre and probiotics, super nourishing oils and high levels of hyaluronic acid for an intense moisture boost.

Beauté Pacifique SuperFruit Moisture Enforcement Vegan Serum from Beauté Pacifique is a unique, water-based serum. Containing extracts and juice from the Nordic superfruits (i.e. sea buckthorn, cloudberry, lingonberry, sugar beet and birch), it prevents impurities and redness in young skin, while making the skin more even.

Two different kinds of the extremely water-binding hyaluronic acid provide the skin with a thorough, long-lasting moisture

boost, keeping the skin supple. The serum also contains the B vitamins, niacinamide and panthenol, which enhance the ability of the skin’s outermost barrier to protect it from potential everyday impacts and dehydration.

Ingredients in the Superfruit Serum include: betula alba juice (binds extra moisture to the skin and seems to have a firming effect); beta vulgaris (beet) root extract (enhances the natural moisturebinders in the skin and provides extra moisture); buckthorn (evens out the skin’s pigmentation and makes the skin more resistant and robust); cloudberry seed extract (delays the loss of elasticity in ageing skin); and papain (part of Beauté Pacifique’s new advanced exfoliation system).

Also from Beauté Pacifique, Xtra Dry Skin Fix is a dermatological super cream that helps to maintain a high level of moisture continuously throughout the day. It contains a potent concentration of natural squalene, leaving a deposit of cream inside the skin’s surface, which is reactivated by contact with water, locking in moisture to maintain constant hydration.

Xtra Dry Skin is positioned as a medical grade aid in helping to treat dry, chapped and damaged skin.

mature, dry skin.

Designed to protect the skin against oxidative damage, DermaFix Argan Oil is an organic nourishing elixir that also offers skin nourishment and anti-inflammatory benefits.

DermaFix CBD Lotion / Oil is made with the purest organic Swiss Cannabis CBD (cannabidiol) oil and offers antibacterial, antiinflammatory and skin calming properties whilst hydrating and soothing an irritated skin.

SIX

Photo by Shiny Diamond from Pexels

DermaFix Maintaining skin barrier is imperative to a healthy skin. Should your barrier become impaired, the skin will respond with an increase in skin sensitivity, with accompanying redness and irritation. This may also lead to a flaking skin with a resultant rough texture.

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers a variety of targeted topical solutions maintaining skin barrier health and resolving the concerns of a dry skin: A case in point is DermaFix Skin ResQ, a superior formulation that offers anti-oxidant protection whilst keeping the skin moisturised, hydrated and supple. Formulated for universal use, Skin ResQ rapidly penetrates into the skin for all day protection, without the sensation of a greasy film.

Offering superior skin hydration benefits with universal use is the DermaFix Vitamin Therapy Masque, a light-weight, nutrient rich, intensive treatment masque. It may further be used as an overnight skin booster, alleviating skin dryness whilst offering skin repairing and

From SIX, the Comfort Cleansing Cream leaves the skin feeling velvety soft, with a light honeysuckle fragrance to enchant the senses.

Active ingredients include jojoba butter, vitamin B3, sweet almond oil and shea butter.

For overnight application, the SIX Moisture Boost Mask is the equivalent of eight cups of water for the skin. It soothes, plumps, revives and protects the skin.

This product is formulated with the following active ingredients: fatty acids, safflower seed oil, shea butter and peach fruit oil.

Ideal for dry, dehydrated, combination and sensitive skin, the mask can also be left on for 20 minutes and then rinsed off, should an overnight application not be desired.

anti-inflammatory benefits.

DermaFix Hydra-Silk Cleanser is a light emollient cleanser that gently works to lift away make-up and other impurities without stripping the essential lipids on the skin, while the DermaFix BioEffective Cream is an extra nourishing, active revitalising and regenerative skin treatment for online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Skincare Trends

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Aesthetic Medicine Aesthetic Medicine

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Aesthetic therapists reveal their top tips for practicing An aesthetic practice is only as good as the services it offers as well as the practitioners who perform these services.

KAREN ELLITHORNE poses questions to three top aesthetic therapists to discover their secrets to success

Sonette Donker

T

he aesthetic therapists interviewed in this article are all qualified somatologists who currently either own their own businesses, or hold senior positions in the companies they work for.

These somatologists have managed to evolve and become some of the top performers in the

online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Diana van Sittert

aesthetics industry. Their success has been achieved through being passionate and by continually keeping themselves educated and abreast of the latest treatment trends.

The therapists are: SONETTE DONKER Clinic: Skin iD Position: Owner and Therapist

Lourette Du Toit

DIANA VAN SITTERT Clinic: SkinPhD Head Office Position: Operational Manager + R&D LOURETTE DU TOIT Clinic: Dermology Position: Owner & Managing Director

How did you evolve from a skin care therapist to an aesthetic therapist?

Diana van Sittert: As a student in 1998, the industry was all about a cosmetic superficial beautifying approach and with the main aim of relaxation and sensory stimulation.

For me this was simply not enough. I asked myself – why do we have to compromise on either results or ‘the feel-good factor’?

Why can’t we have both? This led me on a path reading as much literature that was available, connecting with mentors like Professor Aubrey Parsons and other cosmeceutical giants. Being part of brands such as pHformula and Nimue gave me the exposure to travel internationally and have incredible conversations around new technologies and ingredients, etc.

Sonette Donker: I had the privilege of working with plastic surgeons and aesthetic product brands, which opened up the world of aesthetics for me.

Lourette du Toit: Moving from the spa and/ or beauty industry over to aesthetics can be very challenging for a therapist. I wanted to join the industry when I moved from the Kruger National Park to Johannesburg. After working for six years in the spa industry as spa manager and head therapist at a 5-star game lodge, I really wanted to grow into the medical side of our industry. After contacting a few doctors and being turned away as I had no experience, I finally joined a brand-new practice, Dermology, as practice manager/ therapist. In this role I grew in our beautiful and exciting industry, and finally became the owner of this same company. I found that people wanted experienced therapists.

So, how do you become experienced if you cannot get a job in the industry? My vision is to employ young and aspiring therapists and grow them in our industry.

assistance from the active ingredients to ‘heal’ and consistently improve cellular functioning for weeks thereafter.

Step 2: Needling with depth adjustment to ensure additional collagen stimulation.

Step 3: After care that contains ionic colloidal silver to ensure that the inflammation we want remains controlled. This assists greatly in PIH (Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) prevention.

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

Sonette Donker: I love chemical peels. They are quick and easy to perform and I love the results achieved.

Lourette du Toit: My favorite treatment protocol is combination

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

So, how do you become experienced if you cannot get a job in the industry? My vision is to employ young and aspiring therapists and grow them in our industry.

– Lourette du Toit

What is your current favorite treatment modality or treatment protocol and why?

Diana van Sittert: By far my current favourite is combining product and technology to ensure optimal results, ensure the control of trauma / inflammation and skin supporting factors to assist with healing. So it would be as follows: Step 1: The correct combination acid peel with active ingredients left at a cellular level has shown that there is a better skin penetration response but also

therapy. I believe in putting together that perfect recipe for each individual patient, to ensure that they get the best opportunity to work towards their future skin.

Furthermore, I also strongly believe in looking outside of the box when putting together that recipe. I am a laser therapist and light resurfacing lasers and gold standard light devices are my niche. Combining these procedures just takes your treatment to a whole new level and creates long term results for patients.

What would you say are the ideal qualities of an aesthetic therapist?

Diana van Sittert: One quote summarises this answer: ‘If you cannot explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough’.

Continuous learning is necessary, as well as questioning brand training information – do they just want to sell their product OR does it make sense? Consultation, consultation, consultation. You cannot offer your clients optimal results without ascertaining what their main skin concerns are, their goals, their expectations, etc. Every client MUST have a treatment and home care plan for at least six months, to be reviewed or amended every three months.

Following up and consistent online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

Aesthetic Medicine Aesthetic Medicine Business Trends

39 37

Aesthetic AestheticMedicine Medicine

40 38 communication is key. Educate the client with visual tools so that she/ he understands what the process of skin concern improvement involves.

Sonette Donker: You need to have an extensive knowledge of the skin and the products you work with.

Having this knowledge allows you to customise the treatments to the client’s individual needs. You will also be able to treat the skin better if there are any complications with the treatment.

You need to have an extensive knowledge of the skin and the products you work with.

Having this knowledge allows you to customise the treatments to the client’s individual needs. – Sonette Donker

Lourette du Toit: A good aesthetic therapist never wants to stop learning; one who wants to continuously grow her/ his knowledge and welcomes critique.

Empathy is crucial in our industry.

We need to be able to identify and understand our patient’s emotions. The fact that we often work on patients’ faces with powerful equipment and ingredients requires lots of hand holding post procedure.

What do you look for when making a decision about taking on a new professional brand?

Diana van Sittert: Proven clinical data; independent testing; ingredient quality and supplier; cost versus result; offering options for all skin concerns; and marketing support.

Sonette Donker: Solid clinical data and high profit margins.

Lourette du Toit: I believe there are many successful brands with high quality ingredients available.

As such, I look at the standard aspects of a skincare brand, such as quality of ingredients. I check their facts and of course try the product on my own skin, or someone whose skin is indicated, for monitoring purposes as the proof is in the pudding, right?

Apart from this, I also look at the support offered from the suppliers, such as marketing, consignment and samples. online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

Continuous learning is necessary for a therapist, as well as questioning brand training information – do they just want to sell their product OR does it make sense?

– Diana van Sittert What are your favorite active ingredients and why?

Diana van Sittert: There are so many! How do I choose?

Ingredients that I am currently researching and impressed with are CBD (Cannabidiol) due to the

incredible anti-inflammatory action in topical application, and azelaic acid, because of the indirect hormonal effect it can have on improving teenage and adult acne overall.

Sonette Donker: TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) – the skin afterwards just looks amazing.

Vitamin K is great to soothe and speed up the skin healing after peels. And of course, retinol is the ultimate in anti-ageing.

Lourette du Toit: It’s difficult to choose only one! When I start talking ingredients, I get completely carried away. One of my absolutely top ingredients is retinol, it’s a must in most skincare regimes. Retinol comes in a variety of forms and also offers multiple benefits to the skin, such as an increase in cellular turnover, which will lead to a more even skin tone, smoother texture and of course, less fine lines. Niacinimide, an active form of Vitamin B3, is next on my list as an all rounder ingredient for everyone. I am a firm believer that we need to focus on healthy skin rather than perfect skin. If your skin barrier is not intact, you will not get the best benefits from your procedures and other products. In fact, it can even go the opposite direction.

Niacinimide will not only strengthen the skin barrier but also offers many other benefits, such as regulating sebum production and inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte.

Therefore, niacinamide is not only a friend to our skin barrier, but also useful for fighting acne and hyperpigmentation.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments Exciting exfoliation

The brows have it

RefectoCil’s Line & Shine Range of eyebrow pencils and highlighters enhance the entire eye area, while complementing professional brow and lash styling treatments. Brow Liners are formulated with a refined, long lasting (up to 10 hours) silk powder texture that is smudge proof and waterproof. The formulation for the Brow Highlighters, also smudge proof and waterproof, lasts up to eight hours.

031 209 2548

Beauté Pacifique’s medical grade Masculinity Double Action Facial is a very efficient exfoliating cream with biodegradable natural cellulose beads to exfoliate dead skin cells. It also loosens excessive cells mechanically. Containing propolis and rooibos, the product exfoliates simultaneously with a biological action, leaving the skin with a youthful glow.

073 053 8830

Youthful glow

Exuviance® Retinol Eye Cream is a potent cream that helps encourage skin renewal for a brighter, firmer and smoother under eye appearance on the face. The pH in this cream is set to 6.5, so that the higher concentration of retinol in the formula doesn’t irritate the skin. It also contains a powerful dual peptide blend for crow’s feet, lines and dark circles.

011 545 9300

Perfect cover

RVBLAB Hydra Booster Foundation is a new generation, multi-functional foundation that boasts a ‘clean’ formula without silicones, PEG, talc, parabens and perfume allergens. Suitable for all skin types, this high performing foundation provides the perfect balance between creaminess and lightness.

021 701 2900

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Product Product News News

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Hair News

40

Crowning glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front

Reversing the colour process Colour Reset safely and gently removes artificial hair colour without causing damage to the hair. When mixed and applied to the hair, Colour Reset shrinks the artificial hair colour molecules back to their original size. Once the hair has been rinsed and buffered, the shrunken colour molecules have been removed from the hair without fear of re-oxidation.

Blonde all the way The reformulation of Schwarzkopff Professional’s BLONDME Care line sees the introduction of 3D Bond Creation Technology; creating a product portfolio that strengthens hair from within. The integrated 3D Bond Creation Technology works across three integral steps of a BLONDME Blonding Service, combining Bond Protection, Bond Creation and Bond Maintenance for ultimate care.

011 617 2467

011 305 1600

Not just ‘another plex…’

The Arganplex 3-step system has been formulated with INOAR’s patented KEM3 Complex, a combination of keratin, amino acids, nutrition and moisture, to protect and revitalise the hair during, or after, chemical procedures. Whilst preventing breakage, Arganplex also hydrates the hair from within and reconstructs it.

012 346 1721

All out action

Indola introduces ACT NOW! – an environmentally aware, high-performing styling and care range that’s passionate about providing sustainability in the salon. The range is free from silicones and sulfatesurfactants formulas, mineral oils, parabens, artificial colourants and artificial waxes. It features vegan formulas and packaging that is up to 97% recycled.

011 617 2467

Issue 41

May 2021

ALL LIT UP

Curing lamps

TERRIFIC TECHNIQUES How to create 3D art

Image by Jerzy Gorecki from Pixabay

FASCINATING JOURNEY

Nails then and now

Serums

Systems

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Issue 39

March 202 1

Serums

I

t’s always fun checking out the new colours that professional brands launch with the changing of seasons and we feature some new autumnal collections on our Product Hub page. These engrossing shades are sure to inspire both nail techs and clients alike.

In these hectic, pandemic-ridden times, it’s nice to take a break for a short while and reflect on how the nail industry has Born in Tu rkey, Glo bal Welln 2 Satur centuries. essWe progressed over the decades, and even include, in this Day is cel day of Ju ebrated ne every on the year only with com activities plimenta around the ry issue of NailFile, a delightful recap on the history of nail and world. painting June 12 , 2021 Want to art. be a part of the e-mail: em celebration my.sto s? globalwell nessday.or Talking of nail art, with more and more localltz@ nail techs wanting to g take part in competitions, we asked an award-winning nail artist to provide tips on how to create 3D art on nails. This is a truly intricate technique that can give rise to the most amazing creations, as our NailFile Nail Design Challenges regularly reveal.

Systems

Welcome

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TERRIFIC TECHNIQ U

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How to cre ate 3D art

Joanna Sterkowicz

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FASCINATIN G JOURNEY

Editor

Nails then

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WHAT’S INSIDE

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Industry News

Stay in the know

44 Ask the Experts

50 UV & LED Light Technology All the facts

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Top tips for creating 3D nail art

Product Focus

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Nail History

Yesterday, today and tomorrow online @ probeauty.co.za

Curing lamps

Step by steps

Check mate!

It’s all about texture

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Latest launches

57 Top Tech Talk

Shimonay Deyzel

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Best nail looks at the Oscars Hollywood came alive on 25 April when the 93rd Annual Academy Awards (‘The Oscars’) event was held, boasting an actual red carpet. While only nominees and presenters were invited, there was a whole lot of glam on show, as well as some stunning, albeit mostly subtle, nail looks.

Sporting nails that were striking in their simplicity in that they perfectly matched her vibrant midnight blue outfit, was singer H.E.R., who took home the Best Original Song Oscar for ‘Fight For You’ (from the film ‘Judas and the Black Messiah’).

Another nail look that attracted attention was seen on Maria Bakalova, Best Supporting Actress nominee for ‘Borat Subsequent Moviefilm’.

Bakalova’s nail set was created by celebrity nail stylist Betina Goldstein and designed to match her ethereal, fairy princess style gown. On her Instagram page, Goldstein wrote: “When Maria told me the story behind her romantic look for the Oscars, I wanted to create something elegant yet young. I named this design ‘French Moonlight’ and used a sheer nude base and silver glitter French tips and moon, to create a ‘glass slipper’ moment.”

There were many other modern updates of the classic French manicure, a case in point being Andra Day, Best Actress Nominee for ‘The United States vs Billie Holiday’. Her very long nails had a V-shape tip.

Tom Bachik designed what he described as ‘a 90’s glam look’ for Margot Robbie. Her naturally long nails were adorned with what Pop Sugar called, ‘a diffused French manicure’ look.

Carey Mulligan, Best Actress nominee for ‘Promising Young Woman’, sported a gold micro reverse French manicure, created by Queenie Nguyen.

A solid, rosy pink glittered look was seen on Emerald Fennell, the Best Director nominee for ‘Promising Young Woman’.

Resplendent in a dazzling white outfit, Tiara Thomas, a co-writer of the Best Original Song winner, ‘Fight For You’, had her long nails in a white French, with intermittent thick white swirls accenting them.

News News News

NEWS

H.E.R. (Instagram @hermusicofficial)

Carey Mulligan’s nails (Instagram @ nailartbyqueenie)

Maria Bakalova (Instagram @betina_ goldstein)

Margot Robbie’s nails (Instagram @tombachik)

Nail art by Kirsty Maekin (Source: Pinterest)

Business Business Tips Tips

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ask EXPERTS the

QUESTION

I’m a nail tech wanting to enter nail competitions – what are some top tips for creating 3D art?

C

reating any form of 3D nail art requires the correct tools, a lot of practice and even more patience.

There are two main techniques when creating 3D nail art: the first

is emboss, which is a raised design that is created on the nail. Then there is 3D – this is usually made as separate elements on a sculpting form and then assembled on the nail to form a 3D design.

Composition

EMBOSS

online @ probeauty.co.za

3D

First and most important, we need to talk about composition. Always take the rule of thirds into consideration when designing and placing your 3D art on the nail.

Place the art where it will be eye-catching and have the most significance to your design. I believe that art should tell a story and have great flow throughout the design.

Colour

beautiful design. To create a more delicate and realistic rose, create thinner petals and wait for the petals to dry a little more before placing them on the nail.

Creative colour use will draw the most attention and therefore should be well balanced throughout the design. Use a colour wheel to determine your colour range prior to starting with your design. When adding additional colours to your design, compare and consider the options carefully to maintain the balance.

Beads

Tools Invest in a high quality #4 and/or #6 long kolinsky hair brush with a fine tip. High quality tools will make the art of 3D easier, as you will be able to control your beads better and create fine and intricate designs. If you take good care of these brushes, they will last a lifetime.

Acrylic bead consistency is the key to create any 3D design. Not only the consistency of the liquid to powder ratio, but the consistency of the bead size, especially when creating symmetrical designs. I always wait for my bead to have a satin finish before I start to mould my design. When working with a two-toned bead, use the lightest colour first and add small amounts of the darker colour to create a better blend. The more colours you use, the more realistic the design.

If you have a runny bead already placed on the nail, turn the nail upside down to prevent the bead from spreading even more, and once it starts to set, manipulate the bead to its original ball shape before creating your 3D element.

If you are creating a very delicate design and require your 3D element to set quickly, apply heat or blow onto the element.

Once you have completed your 3D nail art, assess the dead space around your design to determine where you could add another element to either balance, synchronise or enhance your design.

Participating in any nail art competition is all about creating extreme and impractical nail art designs. Be creative and push yourself to improve by taking it a step further each time.

Creating flowers When creating flowers, work with uneven numbers of petals, for example, 3 and 5 petal flowers, as it will create the most opportunities to add more elements to the design. Flowers are asymmetrical and therefore you can be spontaneous when adding petals to a rose, for instance. As long as your petals overlap, you will always have a

Chantelle Ayres is an award-winning nail artist and the owner of Bella Vita Nail Art Studio in Poortview, Roodepoort.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips Tips Business

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Business Trends

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online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends

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online @ probeauty.co.za

Nail History History Nail

48

Yesterday, today and tomorrow SANDY FUHR reflects on where nails used to be and where they are now

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

P

icture the scene. You meet someone new. It could be in a friendship group or a business meeting. Inevitably, the conversation starts with a little bit about your history and the fascinating story you tell of the journey you took to get to where you are today.

Well, the same goes for the most interesting stories about the beauty industry. Think back 20 or even 30+ years ago and compare the industry back then to how it is now. Today the beauty industry has become so meaningful and important that it has reached a point where it is quoted as being one of the largest growing industries globally.

And look at what has happened to nails. Who would have thought

online @ probeauty.co.za

Today the beauty industry has become so meaningful and important that it has reached a point where it is quoted as being one of the largest growing industries globally.

that nails would play such an important part in our lives as we go into 2021? An era when, if your nails are not groomed, painted, gelled, extended or arty, you aren’t seen to be taking complete care of yourself.

Gone are the days of lightly filed

and unpainted nails, showcasing only a short free edge to flaunt in public. That is how it was. This is no longer how it is.

Rising popularity Nails have overtaken many other beauty treatments in terms of popularity in today’s times. If you ask a general beauty salon which of their treatments are in the highest demand, the majority will undoubtedly tell you that nails are the leading treatment attraction to their clientele.

I was privileged to experience my first trip to London at the age of 18, back in the 1980s. The trip included loads of sightseeing, to the extent that I still remember the stiff leg muscles from climbing the stairs up and down into tube stations. But my most vivid memory was standing in

a crowd, watching the Changing of the Guard outside Buckingham Palace. Because, of course, you have to try to see the Queen if you are in London, right? Well, next to me was a lady who had her nails artistically painted with the Union Jack. I was flabbergasted and couldn’t help staring. I was about to enter beauty school and had no idea that such things were available for nails.

That was my first experience of how profound the international impact of nails was to be on the South African industry. That was me, sold. Nail art was definitely on the cards sometime in the future.

The 1980s brought the painting of nails back into trend in a meaningful way.

The first set of nail extensions that I remember being available in South Africa was a fibreglass set.

Photo by Rashid Khreiss on Unsplash

Status symbol Looking much further back, it is believed that people have been manicuring for more than 5,000 years.

According to a manuscript dating back to the Ming Dynasty, nail polish can be traced back to 3,000 BC, when nail colour indicated one’s social status. That pretty much stands today. There

was apparently a Chinese Dowager Empress known for her beautiful, long nails, which were, even in those days, already artificial and well-manicured. Nails were protected by gold and jewelencrusted nail guards to defend them against breakage.

Nail grooming was a status symbol back then. The lower classes wore pastel and light shades on their nails, whereas the upper classes wore deeper and brighter colours.

Around 3,200 BC, common men painted their nails with green kohl, whereas black kohl was reserved for the noblemen, clearly defining their position in society.

Then, during the Zhou Dynasty around 600 BC, royalty painted their nails, covering them with gold and silver dust, thereby showing their social standing.

Over 5,000 years ago in India, henna was then (and still is today) used as nail polish.

Acrylic is born Fascinatingly, in 1934, a dentist, Dr Maxwell Lappe, created the first set of fake nails for clients who bit their nails, using a liquid and powder acrylic. In 1955, another dentist, Dr Frederick Slack, after successfully repairing his own broken nail with acrylic, accidentally invented and then patented an acrylic sculpting nail extension.

But what about the ‘French Manicure’ that we know so well today? No, it did not originate in France as you would automatically think. In 1975, President and CEO of Orly International, an American called Jeff Pink, whilst working in Hollywood, said that movie directors would complain about how long it took to change nail colours to match actresses’ wardrobes for different scenes. He suggested using white polish on the tips, then applied a fleshcolour polish over it. The studios thanked him for the money and time saved on set.

Seeing a great business opportunity, Pink began selling a

set called the ‘Natural Look Nail Kit’, which he then took to Paris. It was used on models for a fashion show, so when he returned to the USA, he called it the ‘French Manicure’. This ever popular style has certainly stood the test of time.

Gel arrives Around the 1980s, acrylic had set the path for the launch of hard gel nails. They didn’t meet with as much success initially though.

The first set of nail extensions that I remember being available in South Africa was a fibreglass set.

Oh my gosh! Fibre! It took me a full day during practice to do a single set. And it took me three hours to do a set for a client, even when I was experienced. I soon lost my fascination for fibreglass nails.

A game-changer was the launch of the first soak-off gel and colour gel polish. Thanks to CND’s (Creative Nail Design’s) Shellac, 2008 brought us a long-lasting manicure colour, with Gelish hot on its heels a year later.

Being a history lover, exploring our nail industry’s journey and discovering just how powerful and successful it has become in recent years, is an interesting tale to discuss over any dinner table. And, of course, then there are my classrooms full of eager and excited beauty students who are entering a field that is filled with ongoing new trends, rooted in history.

For more on the history of nail art, see an interesting set of slides at https://www.refinery29.com/ en-us/the-illustrated-history-ofnail-art#slide-13

Sandy Fuhr is the Director of the Beauty Therapy Institute group of Colleges – Africa.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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UV & LED Light Technology Following on from NailFile’s last article on how misinformation is harming our industry, SONETTE VAN RENSBURG discusses the facts about UV & LED gel light technology, a topic that is just as important

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raditional UV lamps have been around since gel nail products first came onto the nail scene a number of years ago, but today mostly LED technology is being used. Both UV and LED are used for the curing process of gel nail coating products – these are some of the most technically sophisticated and complex products in the beauty industry. They have a very specific formula containing photoinitiators, which work like a switch and require the use of UV light to

online online @ @ probeauty.co.za probeauty.co.za

kick-start the polymerisation process.

A traditional UV lamp has long, tube-like bulbs known as CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Lights), whereas LED Lamps have many tiny little LED (Light Emitting Diode) bulbs. LED lamps, however, are known to cure gel products much faster than traditional UV lamps. Nowadays everything is about being able to conduct services in a much faster time, as time is money, right? Well, not always, so never compromise quality and most of all, safety, for

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way, they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths.

Controversy and confusion

Photo by nailknowledge.org

the sake of time and money.

UV and LED nail lamps come in different shapes and sizes and can cost anything from as little as R39 up to a couple of thousand rand.

Why, you might ask? Aren’t they all the same and don’t they do the same thing? Why should I spend more on a lamp rather than just buying the cheapest one available?

Let’s first understand exactly what’s behind UV and LED light technology, what they’re used for, how they work, and the issues surrounding them.

Differences You might wonder what the difference is between the two technologies. In actual fact, LED light is UV light, as they both emit UV wavelengths and light within the UV light spectrum. What you need to know though is that there are different types of UV, UVA, UVB and UVC. The photoinitiators in gel products require lower levels of UVA to cure them, therefore the lamps used for curing gel products are designed to emit UVA light and are considered safe for use on the nails and skin.

In one of Doug Schoon’s posts he says that… “Many still don’t understand that LED is a type of “bulb”, NOT a type of “light”. LED nail lamps emit MORE UV, that’s how they cure faster. In other words, the intensity of UV is much greater with LED nail lamps, when compared to traditional nail lamps using fluorescent bulbs.

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way,

Too many nail professionals don’t realise that most of their service breakdown problems are probably due to improper curing. This can cause everything from cracking to breaking, shattering, lifting, pitting, discoloration, bubbles and onycholysis. they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths.

Different makes of nail lamps will also differ in wavelength and intensity. Therefore it is vitally important to use the correct lamp that is designed for use with the brand and system it’s meant to be used with. Not using the correct lamp could lead to over curing or even under curing, resulting in all sorts of problems such as service breakdown and allergies. When nail companies recommend you buy their lamp with their system, it’s not just to make an extra buck; there are scientific reasons as to why they do.

Over the years there has been plenty of controversy and confusion about the use of UV and LED lamps, one in particular being whether any lamp can be used with any product, brand or system, and another about the safety of such lamps. Let’s look at the facts uncovered by some top experts in the industry who have explored and done in depth studies with regards to UV technology, as well as the concerns and issues surrounding it.

Firstly, let’s talk about whether all UV gel-curing lamps are created equal. I see this topic coming up on social media time and time again, with nail professionals asking: “I use brand A – which is the best lamp to use?”

Well, the simple answer is: “The one which has been designed to use with the brand and system you are using”. It’s the same reason why you shouldn’t mix products and brands.

In the last NailFile article I mentioned Marian Newman and The Nail Knowledge learning site.

In one of her very informative blogs, she provides some important, fact-based information about UV and LED technology, putting an end to all the confusion.

Newman writes: “It is true that all LED lamps create UV light and will ‘harden’ UV curable products, but unless the LED lamp was specifically designed to properly cure that particular UV nail product, don’t expect to achieve a ‘proper cure’.

“There are three types of cure for UV nail coatings: under-cure, over-cure and most importantly, proper cure. The best way to ensure a proper cure is to consistently apply a thin layer of UV gel, then cure that layer for the correct length of time, using a nail lamp that emits the correct UV wavelengths needed to efficiently activate the photoinitiators in the UV gel. These wavelengths should neither be too high nor too low an intensity, as this could cause either online @ probeauty.co.za

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52 52 over-curing or under-curing. This is only part of what must be considered to ensure that a UV product cures properly.”

Newman also talks about how even the design of the nail lamp, as well as other factors, can all influence the curing process. Other factors include: the distance between the nail plates and the bulbs; the positioning of the bulbs and type of interior reflector material used; and the electronics inside the lamp. Electric components drive the bulbs to create UV and also influence UV intensity. Different lamps have different components. If the exact same UV bulbs are used in two different brands of UV nail lamp, the bulbs can produce widely different UV intensities.

Curing is also NOT all about the wattage; this is the ‘power consumption’ and not ‘UV output’.

The most confusing of all is to believe that when UV products harden they are properly cured, but in many cases they are not. All UV nail coatings will harden when they cure more than 50%. But to obtain the best properties and to avoid causing skin sensitivities and to achieve proper cure, these coatings should cure at around 90%. There are many clients walking around with under cured enhancements, which are more prone to service breakdown and more likely to cause adverse skin reactions, especially for the nail technicians who are repeatedly exposed to partially cured UV gel dust and filings.

Too many nail professionals don’t realise that most of their service breakdown problems are probably due to improper curing. This can cause everything from cracking to breaking, shattering, lifting, pitting, discoloration, bubbles and onycholysis. I believe improper curing to be the leading cause of skin sensitivity, resulting in symptoms such as skin redness, itching, water blisters, etc. These are completely avoidable with the correct and proper use of UV light curing products and adhering to the manufacturer’s instructions. online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Although UV and LED lamps work pretty much in the same way, they have different wavelengths and intensities. While UV emits a broader spectrum of wavelengths, LED emits a narrower and more directed spectrum of wavelengths.

Important pointers when purchasing and using UV or LED lamps • Always purchase and use the lamp that is sold with the professional UV/LED gel system.

• Change light bulbs in UV lamps as often as is required and recommended.

• Never use other UV/LED gel systems with a lamp purchased along with other products and which are only meant to be used with those products.

• If you have more than one UV/ LED gel brand – purchase the lamp which is specifically designed and meant for use with that brand and system • Always cure for the duration of time that is recommended by the manufacturer.

• Never buy a cheaper lamp for

use with your system. It will not have been scientifically tested for use with your chosen UV/ LED gel brand.

• Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for correct and proper use.

For more information about this topic and Marian Newman’s full article, go to the site https:// nailknowledge.org/ and Doug Schoon’s Brain on FB and schoonscientific.com for in depth articles written by Doug Schoon.

For my part, I would like to say thank you to everyone for all your support towards our last NailFile article on misinformation and for sharing it on social media. It caught the attention of so many nail professionals out there and it was amazing to see the positive responses we got. This just goes to show how important it is to share and spread the correct information. So, let’s keep spreading the correct and proper information and put an end to misinformation.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.

Curing lamps Here we look at some curing lamps on the market manufactured by leading professional nail brands, each intended for use with their own specific nail enhancement systems

Bio Sculpture Spectra

Jessica GELeration PRO LED 30

The Bio Sculpture Spectra LED MultiLED Lamp allows the nail technician to choose between 30 second and 60 second curing times. It features an automatic sensor, 30 LEDs, and a removable magnetic base plate. Spectra also has a replaceable silicone pad protector, assisting clients with hand positioning. The lamp allows for effective side wall and free edge curing.

The revolutionary PRO LED 30 Lamp was developed utilising the latest technology.

Time saving and energy efficient, this eco-friendly LED lamp does not produce high heat so you and your clients are safe. With its compact size, stylish exterior and unique duo-capability of curing manicures and pedicures, the PRO LED 30 lamp meets all the needs of a nail technician.

Gelish 18G Unplugged

CND LED Lamp

011 447 0659

011 791 4027

086 124 6435

The Gelish 18G Unplugged Professional Mobile LED Light is the first LG lithium battery powered LED light engineered using Gelish’s exclusive Intelligent Power Assist advanced circuitry, which eliminates inconsistent power levels when used in battery mode. Battery power is managed and monitored with real time power levels made visible by large display.

011 454 8119

This lamp features patented curing technology and optimises light, time and energy for maximum shine and lasting durability. The energy adjusts for each service step, with time controlled pulsing for a precision cure. Ergonomically designed, there are alignment guides for proper hand/ foot placement. A reflective mirror ensures full cure of nail edges.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Check mate!

Karien Ferreira was inspired to create this elegant check fabric design It is recommended to use this style on one or two nails only, as accent nails. To replicate this design, you will need sheer white, light grey or sheer grey, maroon-red, solid black and a glitter colour.

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Apply one layer of Calgel natural gel as a base and cure; then apply two layers of Calgel Plus sheer white (CG S02WH) and cure in between each layer. Draw wide lines with a nail art brush, using Calgel Plus sheer grey (CG S07GY). To straighten out uneven lines, use a flat gel brush to clean up the edges if needed. Cure.

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Now draw red lines with Calgel Plus deep red (CG M03RE) slightly less wide than the grey lines (repeat method in Step 2). Overlap the grey lines. Cure.

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For the last colour line, use Calgel Plus solid black (CG M01BK), employing the same method as Step 2. However, this time use Calgel liner brush for super fine lines. Overlap the red and grey lines. Cure.

Other nails

I used the Calgel Plus art glitter mix (CG A01GD) applied over two cured coats of grey (Calgel Plus CG S07GY). One nail was finished in a French style and the other with an ombre effect.

The last nail was finished with two coats of only the art glitter mix. These nails can be completed with Calgel non-wipe top gel for a glossy finish.

Mix the highly pigmented Calgel Plus gold art glitter (CG A01GD) with Calgel mixing gel (CG 01MIX). The mixing ratio is 1:1.

Apply thin lines using the Calgel art liner brush as your final lines, overlapping all the colour lines you have painted. Cure.

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Apply Calgel Matte top gel and cure.

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Karien Ferreira is a Calgel nail technician.

It’s all about texture This intriguing nail art look was created

by Marianka Van Niekerk

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Apply your gel base – I prefer to use a rubber base instead of a normal gel base. Choose the colours you want to create your design with. I used the following: • Rosegold (pink) flakes • French – pink • Maroon • Baby pink/ dusty rose pink • Builder gel

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With the same mixture (except for the maroon), cover the flakes in a layer.

Some spaces will cover more thickly than other spaces, but that’s how it is going to create the appearance of depth. Cure.

You will see that there are some edges that will be higher than the layer you have applied but don’t worry, just cover the whole design with the builder gel and this will even out the design. Cure.

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I mixed a drop of each colour, except the maroon, with clear builder gel to give it a medium clear appearance.

Then I added very little of the maroon just to tint the colour a bit, and thinly applied it over the nail, but medium thick over the base of the nail.

The more you apply, the higher your crevasses will be and the thicker your nail will become, so I suggest only applying a medium thin layer (i.e. as thick as 2 layer rubber base). Use a piece of cling wrap big enough to cover the nail.

Then use the sharp end of an orange stick to manipulate the gel to create crevasses (make sure that you don’t make them too high otherwise you will file into the design). Cure under a lamp.

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Once cured, cover the base with the rose gold flakes (you can use chrome as well, but I don’t think it gives the same effect as the flakes).

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File evenly and smooth out, and then top with a no-wipe top coat or glass sealer. I used a no-wipe top coat.

Marianka Van Niekerk describes herself as an ‘all sparkle and unicorn’ kind of nail artist. A proud ambassador for Zsa Zsa Nails, Van Niekerk regards nails as a passion and is consumed by them. It has been eight years since she opened Elysian Nails, her home-based salon in Richards Bay.

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Flower power The Flower Parade collection from Bio Sculpture embodies every woman. She is powerful yet feminine, sophisticated yet playful, confident yet modest, but most of all she is passionate. These pretty shades have suitably flowery names – Cheery Blossom, Perky Pollen, Happy Hydrangea, Prancing Protea, Popping Petals and Crazy Daisy.

086 124 6435

Spice it up For anyone looking to spice up their life this autumn, IBD introduces its Pumpkin Spice and Everything Nice Collection. From burly wood to deep orange sunsets – these seasonal hues emit the feeling of a crisp fall day, even if the weather hasn’t quite caught on.

011 305 1600

Falling in love with fall Leaving the lazy days of summer behind, Artistic Nail Design’s I’ve Fallen For You collection is inspired by the renewed energy and deep earthy colours that get the blood flowing as you move into the brisk, invigorating autumn season.

011 305 1600

Magical collection Available in Gelish Gel Polish, Gelish Dip and Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer, the Shake Up The Magic collection is inspired by the magic and nostalgia of the winter holidays. Colours range from cozy nudes to sparkling shades. They are: Bare & Toasty; Be My Sugarplum; Don’t Snow-Flake On Me; Fa-La-Love That Color; Liquid Frost; and Stilettos In The Snow.

011 447 0659 online @ probeauty.co.za

Top Tech Talk

NailFile talks to salon owner and nail technician, SHIMONAY DEYZEL, about nail art and the industry at large

You have been doing nails for nine years now – what started you on your nail journey?

Do you have your own salon?

The year following matric I worked at a salon for a year and after that, I started my home based salon working by myself. It’s situated in the West Rand, in a small town called Randfontein. My salon has an Italian name – Perfetto Si (The Perfect You).

I always had the idea that I would love to be in the beauty industry.

My passion started with nails in my matric year, when my friends asked me to do their nails for our matric farewell. And, I also always loved being there for people. What better way to do this than by being a nail technician? That way you can always be a friend to a lot of ladies, just by listening, supporting them and making them feel beautiful.

Nails are generally accepted to be the most popular service in the beauty industry in terms of customer demand. Why do you think having beautiful nails is so important to women?

There is no better feeling than looking your best; a new set of nails can mean a lot of things for women. For one, it shows that you are taking care of yourself by looking presentable. This helps a lot particularly when someone is experiencing low self-esteem.

What sort of training have you undergone for nails?

Judging from what I have seen on social media, the one challenge the nail industry is facing is a lot of negative feedback and posts about unsanitary methods, resulting in clients contracting nail diseases.

I’m a Young Nails nail technician, having trained in 2012 in the acrylic and gel system. Additionally, I trained in the electric filing and reverse technique and sculpture course at Young Nails Roodepoort, under my mentor, Angeleque Koekemoer-Cilliers. Over the years I’ve done art courses such as Fineline, 3D art and other hand painted courses.

In the time that you have been doing nails, have you noticed any changes in the professional nail industry, either for the better or worse?

Judging from what I have seen on social media, the one challenge the nail industry is facing is a lot of negative feedback and posts about unsanitary methods, online @ probeauty.co.za

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58 58 resulting in clients contracting nail diseases. This is a result of nail technicians not complying with protocol.

Also, I believe MMA (Methyl methacrylate) needs to be eradicated. People don’t like talking about this subject, that’s why recommending stricter enforcement practices will be best for the nail industry.

mediocre at doing flowers but after many sleepless nights, I finally mastered the floral style.

The amount of appraisals I have received for my work, especially from other nail technicians wanting me to train them in this style, makes me feel truly honored and on top of the world.

Your nail art looks stunning – how did you hone your nail art skills over the years?

Like any artist, you consistently need to practise and perfect your skills. My passion and determination drove me to get better and better at what I do.

Is there a particular style of nail art that you most enjoy doing?

Was there a particular piece of nail art that you once saw that first inspired you to do nail art?

There was no particular style of art that stood out to me, because all art inspires me and I wanted to be a versatile nail artist mastering all styles. I never wanted to be limited to one particular nail art style.

In terms of getting exposure for your nail art – do you use social media platforms?

Yes, I use the following social media platforms for my business presently: on Facebook my business page is called Shimonay Carlson and on Instagram, my business name is perfettosi. Soon I will be creating nail art tutorials on TikTok.

What percentage of your customers request nail art?

Like any artist, you consistently need to practise and perfect your skills. My passion and determination drove me to get better and better at what I do. exactly what they want and send me pictures of their ideas in advance so that I can prep accordingly. A small percentage of my clients give me the freedom to create my own designs.

It differs from month to month, ranging from 60% to 80% of my clients wanting art. The fluctuations in demand are due to financial, seasonal and festive factors.

Do most clients allow you to create your own designs for them, or do most come in with pictorial references that they want you to recreate?

The majority of my clients know online @ probeauty.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Even though floral designs are my strong point, I would say character nail designs are my most enjoyable art as these test my abilities. I love it when a client requests me to paint a character set of nails because it stretches me to beyond what I think I can do.

Have you competed in any nail competitions?

I have taken part in a few small nail art competitions and won three out of the four that I entered.

Why do you think that entering nail competitions is so important for nail techs?

The nail industry is very competitive. I think the reason a nail technician enters a nail competition is to prove her worth and to be recognised.

Is there anyone in the local industry that you particularly look up to?

Please describe the nail art that you are most proud of having done and state why it is so significant for you?

The vast majority of my clients request flowers. At first, I was

There are a few nail technicians in my local industry that are extremely talented, but Alina Fox, Maureen Brill and Isma Theron are all great nail art mentors when it comes to hand painted designs and 3D flowers. It’s these amazing nail technicians that I look up to most.

We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE

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