Salon International March 2022 by Professional Beauty SA

A safe space Catering for autism in the salon

Men Only Offer more in men’s grooming March 2022 | saloninternational.co.za

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Business

1 TUBE

D N O C E S Y R E V E D E P U R C H AS IN THE WORLD Ultra-precision technology in Koleston Perfect ensures perfect results and beautiful hair that is rich and healthy-looking. Up to 100% grey coverage.

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WellaSouthAfrica

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www.modernhairbeauty.com

Trade information: 0860 104 109

“I used a myriad of techniques to manipulate the hair – 3D printing, braiding and graphic, precision cutting with juxtaposed colour. I wanted to demonstrate that a style can be worn by anyone, at anytime, anywhere.” Cos Sakkas, TONI&GUY HAIR: COS SAKKAS, MAKE-UP: LAN NGUYENGREALIS, STYLING: VERONIKA GREENHILL, PHOTOGRAPHY: JACK EAMES

In this issue... Regulars 4

Industry news Local and international news

The Big Debate Are art teams essential?

18 Career Focus A marketing tail blazer

30 Life through a lens Anthony Grant

Business 8

Salon Design Be inspired

13 Safe space Catering for autistic clients

14 Man cave Offer more in men’s grooming

Men only A selection of retail products

Treatments 10 Colour Notes Getting it right

25 Brushes

Welcome Hello and welcome to the March edition of Salon International magazine. As I write this we are busy finalising the details for our next event, a very business focused conference, featuring some of SA’s top salon business speakers. There is still time to book your ticket, so head on over to the website now. www.saloninternational.co.za However, do come back to finish reading the magazine. And on the subject of business, many of the articles are aimed at improving your business and there is also a smattering of inspiration too. I hope you enjoy the read and do feel free to send me comments.

Phil

phil@tetradeevents.com

An in depth guide

Collections 28 Freedom to be you Avalon education team

Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz Cover photo Wella

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970

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News

Men’s hair care and styling products market set to surge A new report by Allied Market Research predicts the global men’s hair care and styling products industry will reach $54.75 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 3.3%. This figure is significantly up from the $40.43 billion that this sector generated in 2020. According to Allied Market Research, the increase in cases of hair fall, innovations in hair care & styling products and the expansion of the media & entertainment industry, coupled with the boom in non-surgical treatments, will drive the growth of the global men’s hair care and styling products market. However, the market growth could be negatively affected by an increase in competition that will impact on the pressures regarding pricing, as well as a rise in customer concerns about harmful components used in products. Conversely, the rise in online shopping and increasing awareness about herbal and organic variants present new opportunities in the coming years. The Allied Market Research report notes that manufacturing activities of hair care & styling products halted due to lockdown measures implemented across many countries. In addition, disruptions in the supply chain coupled with the shortage of raw materials presented challenges in carrying out manufacturing activities with full capacity. Additionally, the ban on import-export activities led to supply chain disruption and supplydemand gap. As the restrictions are lifted off, the supply chain will be restored. Based on product type, the hair care segment held the highest share in 2020, contributing to nearly threefifths of the global men’s hair care & styling products market, and is expected to maintain its lead position during the forecast period. This is attributed to a rise in the prevalence of hair fall, awareness regarding hair damage, and an increase in the prevalence of alopecia among people. However, the styling products segment is projected to portray the highest CAGR of 4.4% from 2021 to 2030, owing to increased adoption of modern and stylish products and changes in consumer preferences. For more information visit alliedmarketresearch.com

What exactly is the ‘expensive brunette’?

A hair colour trend that seems to have grown out of the pandemic, the ‘expensive brunette’ is when the colourist uses multiple deeper tones to create a dimensional and natural brunette effect. According to HJI, because of lockdown, clients could not get to their salons to top up their blonde colour, so rather than attempt to dye their own hair, they had no choice

Photo-Andrea PIacquadio from Pexels

NEWS

but to grow out their natural hair, leading to the ‘expensive brunette’ trend. In November 2021, InStyle named the ‘expensive brunette’ as ‘one of this winter’s biggest hair colour trends’ and described it as a ‘darker, lived in look’. The magazine maintained that, although it is a fairly low maintenance look, it looks like an expensive hair colour due to its richness in tone and shine. They referenced the previously blonde model, Hailey Bieber, as an example. Having grown out her natural brown hair, Bieber’s stylist seems to have added only added a few strands in a lighter tone to frame her face. Popsugar.com maintains that this trend is all about focusing on adding dimension to hair colour, while maintaining the hair’s shine and health. It’s characterised by an ultrashine, high-gloss finish and it’s the finish that is what this colour trend is really all about. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

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News L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Launches #IAMAHAIRARTISTWIN Competition 2022 #IAMAHAIRARTISTWIN competition, Hairdressers Journal International and L’Oréal Professionnel Paris have teamed up once again to launch the #IAMAHAIRARTISTWIN competition for 2022! Last year was such a great opportunity for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and Hairdressers Journal International to shine a light on the vast talent across our wonderful hairdressing industry and with our goal to fill social media with incredible hair looks and inspiration with the help of our amazing hair pro community we truly succeeded! We had a total 35 talented winners across the year and our overall winner was Gavin Sheridan @ colourbygav who won the incredible prize of a L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Guest Artist Masterclass! Click HERE for more information

Nativechild opens second Hair & Beauty Bar South African hair care brand, Nativechild, recently launched its second Hair & Beauty Bar in Michelangelo Towers, Sandton. The store is a one stop self-care spot offering a full beauty experience – from hair to nails to eyebrow maintenance for men and women. “Getting your hair and nails done is part of selfcare, so when designing our store, we made sure we created a relaxing environment to break away from the realities of life. We want our customers to enjoy a world class hair experience from people who understand natural hair, so that they leave the salon feeling beautiful and refreshed,” says Nativechild founder, Sonto Pooe. She views the new store opening as another step in entrenching the benefits of Nativechild’s products. Locally developed and manufactured, these hair and body products are plant based, natural and safe. Sustainable ingredients of the finest grade are used in the production and where possible, food grade oils. The range does not contain any harsh chemicals, sulphates, parabens or petroleum and is animal cruelty-free. Nativechild opened its first Hair & Beauty Bar at Cresta Mall in October 2021 and has received requests from customers from all over South Africa to open more branches. “Growing the Nativechild Hair & Beauty Bar footprint resulted from increasing demand from our customers who want to experience our products in a salon environment, and who then continue to use them at home,” concludes Pooe.

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Business

The BIG debate

Do art teams matter for

every salon?

Are art teams essential for all salons? Two experts weigh in

Yes

Would there be an Artistic Team “I have moved from having a of the Year category at the formal art team to a more open British Hairdressing Awards if art invitation for anyone in the team to teams didn’t matter? I believe enjoy making art. It is a subtle but the art team is the vision of your business; important difference. the centre of your brand. The creativity With just 12 employees, everyone and purpose of an art team is to not only can be in the creative think-tank if to visually inspire your they want and it is less formalised. For own team, but the creative projects, at least three of us will Would there be an industry as a whole. join together but they aren’t always the Artistic Team of Hairdressing is built same people. There is always space for the Year category on creativity and I people to be involved in these artistic believe that we keep at the British projects. There are roles for everyone this alive. This is why and especially for apprentices, trainees hairdressers around Hairdressing Awards and graduate stylists who learn so much the globe look to from being involved and observing. We if art teams didn’t British hairdressing for can't involve everyone in every project, matter? inspiration. so it's not a problem if any particular It is a crucial part member doesn't want to be involved. of your team’s career development I try not to underestimate the ideas plan. It gives them direction, of the less experienced members of the opportunities to express themselves, to team because their mind is not bogged find new techniques, discover trends down with rules on how to do or not and stay inspired. These opportunities do something. They don't have the are, of course, not exclusive to art team With just 12 knowledge yet on members, but one of the roles of how to perform employees, everyone a task, so they an art team is to develop passion and creativity. can be in the may think outside For some an art team may seem a the box or have creative think-tank luxury, or an unnecessary expense. really fresh ideas if they want and it and I like this fluid As someone who has been in every position of an art team, from auditioning is less formalised approach. I like to leading, I believe we have a duty the team to be to offer individuals the opportunity to involved with art, but I don’t like to label come together and represent their it as an art team as creativity should be vision. Yes, it is a balancing act to have a the ownership of an art team. I believe it successful business and an art team, but shuts down creativity for other members building and being part of an art team of the broader team and creates an brings new perspectives, new ideas environment where they don’t believe and enhances the performance of all their creative voice is heard, welcome individuals, the salon and the industry. or relevant.

SAM BURNETT, OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, HARE & BONE

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ANNE VECK, DIRECTOR OF ANNE VECK,

Business

The perfect salon

EXPERIENCE W H AT YO U R S A LO N S AYS A B O U T YO U In the first of our series on experiential design in partnership with Takara Belmont, we look at how a salon’s interior can bring to life the ethos of your salon

ho better than Butchers, a salon group with four outposts and who describe themselves as warm, sustainable and industrial, to give some insight into how their salon interior reflects their mission. “We are eco-conscious, sustainable and use plant-based products and colour by Aveda, so our design had to reflect this,” explains Susannah Richardson, director of Butchers. In all of the salons (Shoreditch, Camden, Hoxton and Leicester) the colour palette is natural, ranging from shades of terracotta to taupe. There’s lots of texture (think soft sofas and polished concrete) and the materials are raw and locally sourced

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wherever possible – in both Hoxton and Camden branches the floor is 150-year old wood reclaimed from a Polish factory. The layout of the salon and the way clients move through the space was integral for the team to map out: “As retail is such an integral part of our business, our guests are greeted with a beautifully displayed retail shelf and aroma filled experience as soon as they walk in. We designed our colour mixing station to be in the centre of the space so it feels more interactive and transparent, just like us.” Susanna states that a good salon interior should feel relaxing, thought-through and immersive. “The flow of the space is so important, as is the aroma and music!” she adds. Butchers are proud to use ethical, vegan refreshments so

Business DON’T MISS… … our monthly The Perfect Salon Experiencefeatures. Each issue we look at a different aspect of salon design, from adding a spa element to your space to creating a private area for VIP guests.

ALL OUR SALONS HAVE CLASSIC, MID-CENTURY STYLE CHAIRS FROM TAKARA BEMONT, RECLAIMED WOOD, DRIED FLOWERS, BEAUTIFUL OLD POTS, AND A BEAUTIFUL AROMA

they brought their kitchenette into the guest space, so 'everything is out in the open’. No matter your budget, Butchers has proved that you can bring to life your salon's ethos. Butchers Shoreditch was created on a ‘very small budget’ back in 2014, but the team worked with what they had so it feels different from the other branches – “we had different taste back then,” admits Susannah. But one thing they all have in common? “All our spaces have classic, mid-century style chairs from Takara Belmont, reclaimed wood, dried flowers, beautiful old pots and a beautiful aroma,” Susannah adds. Invest in design that has longevity and purpose, and your clients will experience the 'real you' as soon as they step through the door.

Recreate the look Launched in 2018, the Vintage Alt collection uses traditional textures, materials and manufacturing techniques to create authentic vintage pieces. With wooden armrests, a hand-studded backrest, and retro styling that's convincingineveryway,theA1201styling chair embodies traditional values and a vintageaesthetic.Enhancedwithmodern engineering it perfectly complements the look and approach at Butchers. Meanwhile, Zen Mirror from Takara Belmont’s nature-inspired Zen collection is crafted using natural textures and tones that’s ideal for salons looking to create an interior design inspired by Butchers. Find more at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

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Inspiration

Colour NOTES Landscapes

This month, we quizzed Heffy Wheeler, the mutli award-winning, Pulp Rioteducating salon owner on her colour influences Where do you go for colour inspiration?

Rainbows

Social media means we can connect with creatives all over the world and we have access to unlimited inspiration in many forms. I love to take reference from what others are doing but enjoy using inanimate objects for inspiration. So many times I have been out and have seen colours together that I have just had to take a photo of so I can recreate them, whether that’s a landscape or Christmas decorations.

What are your favourite colouring techniques at the moment? Christ decoratmas ions

I’m obsessed with the 2000s alt influence that has been re-emerging for a while now thanks to apps like TikTok. I am really enjoying the heavy placements, stripes, streaks and real colour clashes as it is such a refreshing change after years of clients requesting soft blended looks.

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

Emo Aesthetics

The 'black into silver' trend most definitely. Clients would come in with a box dyed black hair “just” wanting a silver on the ends, which resulted in a lot of disappointment during consultations when they realised this was a lengthy process. The maintenance appointments once the black root grew too long and the clients wanted the silver higher were truly stressful.

Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back?

Space

Definitely early 00s emo. I absolutely loved experimenting with my hair when I was an emo kid – it was the main way I expressed myself and it’s how I realised the hair industry was where I needed to be. Now it’s trending again, it’s been fun thinking up modern spins on older DIY techniques.

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What’s been your most memorable colour consultation? Shortly after opening my salon, we made the move to go fully digital, removing any need for a salon phone. I realised on my first digital consultation that they worked really well and allowed me to give exceptional customer service before the client has even stepped into the salon. It really does help to create a real sense of familiarity when they do arrive for the patch test or appointment.

What colour creation makes you most proud? I adore corrective colour and big colour changes. I love changing my own hair and thinking of outside-of-the-box ways to make my clients’ hair dreams come true. I create videos and share them on TikTok and have been able to build a massive following.

What do you enjoy most about your job? Being able to be creative, hanging out with my amazing clients, working for some amazing brands as a creator and educator – these are just a few things I love. At the core of everything is my salon and team because I love inspiring and training the next generation through apprenticeships.

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist? Nobody is perfect and we all make mistakes. Do not be disheartened if something goes wrong because every mistake is a stepping stone to figure out a way to do it that works better. And don't forget to photograph everything! I have pictures on my Instagram from years ago and I absolutely love looking back at them for inspiration.

Product feature

NEW COLLECTION

Koleston

PERFECT LIGHTS

Explore Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect Lights, a new collection brought to hairdressers and salons in South Africa by Modern Hair and Beauty. The collection is designed with Wella Global Ambassadors and delivers highly visible, high definition colour, with ultraprecise, blended multi-tonal reflections. It’s perfect for grey coverage and for adding dimension to blonde. Discover two new techniques Koleston Perfect Lights glowing services that are sweeping the industry, Mirror Lights and Shadow Lights. The new services help upgrade classic grey coverage, root touch-up, and highlighting techniques and create beautiful results for your clients. Think comfortable beige, smooth vanilla, earthy cinnamon, and spiced copper tones that flatter all hair textures and skin tones... MIRROR LIGHTS GLOWING SERVICE Due to their loyalty, grey coverage clients are often referred to as the “bread and butter” of the salon colour business,

which is why a reliable colour range is imperative. Join hairdressers from all over the world in choosing easy-touse Koleston Perfect ME+ for reliability and dependability. With up to 100% grey coverage, it also allows for longer periods in between grey touch ups.

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Product feature Your grey coverage clients will love the natural-looking softness of Mirror Lights. It combines grey root coverage with a darker background shade and a lighter foreground shade to create full coverage while producing a softer, blurred regrowth for easier maintenance. Lights are added to the hair through both sections for a soft transition. SHADOW LIGHTS GLOWING SERVICE

More than 50% of salon services are lightening services and each client has individual hair needs. The Shadow Lights glowing service recognises that natural colour is not one dimensional and that contrasting tones vary throughout the hair, and differently for each person. Shadow Lights upgrades classic highlights by weaving in lights in different multi tones. It achieves customised colour by working on the simple principle of weaving contrasting shades throughout the hair for a high precision, multi tonal finish with a beautiful blend. WHY KOLESTON PERFECT LIGHTS? Our dramatically different world has driven change in consumer needs and habits. Grey coverage is still the #1 salon service, but the trend is declining as more clients embrace their grey. The result is a bigger-thanever demand for highlight and

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root shadow services and Koleston Perfect Lights is a direct response to this growing need. One tube of Koleston Perfect is sold every second around the world so it should come as no surprise that it is the main tool of choice for the Koleston Perfect Lights collection. Ultra-precision technology in Koleston Perfect ensures perfect results and beautiful hair that is rich and healthy-looking.

Call 0860 104 109. to find out more.

Business

space

Safe

Pixie and Nate, owners of #BADHAIR in the UK, have set out to make a change – their autism, LBGTQ+ and anxiety-friendly salon has their clients coming back time and time again. A great idea for SA to follow?  What was the driving force behind the launch of #BADHAIR? Having a full autistic family, we understand how traumatic a haircut can be to neurodivergent clients. We noticed there weren’t other salons operating to accommodate this and Nate had always wanted to open his own salon one day, so we thought, ‘Maybe now is the right time to take the crazy jump and make it our own’. To be able to help so many people, that’s the best thing for us. We have children begging their parents to come back to #BADHAIR, and they hated having their hair cut before!

 What was your inspiration for the name? It needed to be something really individual, people don’t expect a salon to be called #BADHAIR. A lot of our clients have never wanted to go into salons or don’t know much about hair, so I’m always hearing, ‘I’ve just got bad hair’. Well, not once we’re finished with them!

 What are some of the adaptations you’ve made in your salon to accommodate your client base? We have a mixture of yellow and white lighting to reduce light hypersensitivity, as well as separate speakers throughout the salon that can be adjusted according to the client’s preference –

or off altogether. We have a box of new ‘fidget toys’ that the kids (and adults!) can play with and keep as a distraction tool, but most importantly, there’s no pressure on our clients. If they want to come and hang out in the salon a few times before having a cut, that’s fine with us!

 What small changes could other salons make to ensure clients with autism, or other additional needs, feel comfortable? Announcing what you’re doing, before you do it, is the biggest one. Checking they’re okay throughout and being patient with them during the process. It’s important that the client feels you’re happy to sit and spend the time understanding what they’d like you to do. Asking simple questions and giving straightforward instructions goes a long way!

 Do you have anything in store for the future of #BADHAIR? Yes! We will definitely be growing our team soon, and our goal is to train every employee to learn that level of understanding - having patience and making your client feel comfortable is key. It would be wicked if one day we could open another #BADHAIR (or even a few)! But for now, our goal is to do really good hair and make everybody that comes in feel comfortable to be who they are.

If they want to come and hang out in the salon a few times before having a cut, that’s fine with us!

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hji.co.uk

Man cave Apart from the traditional demand for shaving products and devices, as well as haircare and styling, the men’s grooming market as a whole has taken on a new dimension over the past decade, as Joanna Sterkowicz reports

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Business

ccording to a study published in February this year by Statista Research Department, the global male grooming market is predicted to be worth about $81.2 billion by 2024. States the report: “There has been a pivotal shift in male pampering culture during the last decade. Men’s toiletries used to consist of shampoo, deodorant, shaving cream and not much else. But from London to New York to São Paulo, bathroom cabinets of middleclass homes now brim with moisturisers, facial cleansers, eye serums, bronzers, concealers, anti-agers and even mud masks, all designed specifically for men. “Men have begun to spend more cash on male-specific toiletries than on shaving products. Sales of skincare, in particular, boomed; and there is no going back now. More and more men are putting higher stock into looking good. It’s about self-confidence as much as anything else, and the desire to feel more attractive, more successful, and, increasingly, more youthful. “The industry should expect to see a further segmentation of men’s grooming, particularly in the developed markets where there are opportunities for a stronger development. In skincare, there will be

Rockets Man

THE FUTURE IN MALE GROOMING IS DEFINITELY THE ONE STOP SHOP THAT CATERS FOR AN INDIVIDUAL’S NEEDS ACROSS

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BEAUTY AND GROOMING.

Business

“Working from home has made people more sedentary, and they have realised they can either cut from home, or don’t need to cut as often as they used to. And, in terms of retail, people are definitely more price conscious of what they are buying. Customers are aiming for more affordable products and sales of the super high-end ranges have tapered off.” Sinclair adds that while treatment sales are picking up post lockdown, retail sales have not recovered as well. She continues: “We continue to innovate to deliver on the changing consumer male’s grooming needs, such as wellness, ingestible health, hair loss and accessories. Skincare and facials are services that are showing growth as men increasingly care for their skin with the aim of healthy-looking skin. Convenience is on the increase driven by online ordering platforms. The desire for

Sorbet Man

growth in products designed not only for different skin types, but also for different degrees of stubble. The number of product launches for men will still be low in comparison with products for women, of course, but the gap will narrow over time.”

MEN ARE WILLING to EXPERIMENT WITH products that ENHANCE THEIR GROOMING routine and deliver

Franchises

Two of the leading franchises for male grooming salons in South Africa are Sorbet Man and Rockets Man. Sean Barber, founder of Rockets Man, notes that in terms of trends, his clients are wanting more experiential treatments and looks with their haircuts and colours. “There seems to be an increased need for clients to express themselves more through their cuts and the look they are going for. More and more clients are asking for vibrant colours, both in beards and hair. Men are also trying certain colours in gel polish nails, and not simply going for the clear look anymore. “The Rockets Man customer has always been very image and quality conscious and frequently combines a haircut with a mani or a pedi. However, there is definitely a trend to have facials and massages as well, on top of the cut and mani/pedi. The future in male grooming is definitely the one stop shop that caters for an individual’s needs across beauty and grooming,” he explains. Linda Sinclair, group CEO of the Sorbet Group, comments: “Hair colour is popular amongst our Sorbet Man guests. Covid-19 has given them the courage to experiment with trends, styles and colours. Hair loss treatments and advanced pedicures have also increased. We’ve noticed that men are taking to waxing, mani-pedis and facials.”

Covid economy Barber notes that footfall into his salons is approximately 40% less than pre-pandemic levels.

BETTER RESULTS in less time. value for money is more prevalent now than ever before.” Sorbet Man has not adjusted its treatment menu because of Covid, but did hold off on price increases on certain treatments. New brands and treatments have been added to the menu to attract a new guest, as well as to offer the current Sorbet Man guest new treatment and retail innovations. Promotions throughout the year were focused on new innovation and added value offers to the guest.

Advanced treatments

In the female beauty salon sector there is a growing

demand for advanced and device-based treatments, but are men following suit? Barber comments: “Men are always a little behind women when it comes to new trends and innovations in the beauty sector, but they definitely eventually pick it up. If there is a demand and it is economically feasible for us to include these types of treatments in our offerings, then we will most certainly look at it.” Sinclair adds: “The beauty industry is ever evolving and the male grooming market is definitely seeing a growth in more advanced, results driven treatments. Men are willing to experiment with products that enhance their grooming routine and deliver better results in less time. As a brand, we also pride ourselves in evolving and adapting to ever growing

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Business

Cancer Care

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Product Focus

Men only

The ever-expanding men’s grooming market has led to the creation of specific male ranges

after shave balm, and the beard oil that doubles up as a winter dry skin serum and shaving rash, or shaving bump, remedy. Two new products added to the Six Men’s range are the Refreshing Scrub, using 100% natural pumice as an exfoliator and thus perfect for the thicker male skin, and the Firming Eye Gel as the movement of men towards eye care is rising. Salons and spas offering Six have four men’s treatments: Man On The Move (30-minute deep clean); Energising Facial (60 minutes, extractions, masking and anti-ageing if required); High Performance AHA Skin Peel (30-minute glycolic or lactic acid skin peel for men); and First Class Treatment (90 minutes, includes a back massage).

Award-winning

Gentlemen’s Tonic is an international, awardwinning luxury male spa, grooming, skin and hair concept proudly founded in London in

Taurec complex

All products in the Babor Men range are based on the powerful Taurec complex derived from Siberian ginseng (to increase stress resistance), to taurine (a stimulant that helps the cell membrane to improve moisture absorption), to the cell boost factor. The latter consists of proteins from white lupines and green algae, which activate the skin cells and thus promote skin regeneration. Babor Men is veganfriendly and does not contain any silicones, parabens, PEGs, mineral oils or dyes. Instant Energy Ampoules contain caffeine for an immediate energy boost, as well as Vitamin C and provitamin B5 to make the skin look refreshed and healthy. Triple-strength hyaluronic acid provides moisture with maximum effect. Other products in the Babor Men range are: Calming Face & Eye Cream; Energising Face & Eye Gel; Calming After Shave Serum; Energising Hair & Body Shampoo; and the Men Travel Set.

Two-in-one strategy

The men’s products in the Six Skincare brand are mostly two-in-one products because, as the Six team says, ‘men don’t like to faff!’ An example of such a product is a shaving face wash, so that men can use the wash to clean their skin and to shave with. Further examples are the moisturiser, which doubles up as an

2004. The brand is also a pioneer in both retail and professional products, offering an award-winning selection of male grooming products, as well as a scientifically advanced anti-ageing cosmeceutical range. Gentlemen’s Tonic professional products are already used by many of the world’s most recognised and luxurious five-star and boutique hotels and spas, while both its Babassu & Bergamot line, as well as the Derma-Care range, are also sold in the most prestigious department stores and spas, globally, all specifically developed and formulated solely with men’s skin and needs in mind. The brand is available in Southern Africa and Mauritius through The Spa Warehouse.

Home brewed

The Hines & Harley product range combines the brand’s aromatherapy expertise and its passion for beards, moustaches and male skin. Its beard wash, beard oil, beard balm, beard moisturiser, moustache wax, shaving oil and aftershave balm are made on the premises by the brand’s founder, Jared Hines. Base ingredients for the products are coconut oil online@saloninternational

Careers

HJ CAREERS

adventures of a

Marketing TRAILBLAZER Sustainable salon owner, award winner, innovative marketer – Cally Borg’s insights are industry-wide and forwardthinking, plus she’s flying the flag for home salons

What was your journey into the industry? I started as an assistant at John Carne, Wimbledon, before moving to TONI&GUY and Charles Worthington. After suffering from an injury, I decided to venture into the freelance world and, within a year, I was working as a session stylist for magazines, television and events.

Marketing myself has drawn in the right opportunities like a magnet, resulting in rapid growth in my business, even during the pandemic. I believe opportunities are everywhere, you just have to be open minded and willing.

Became Amanda Holden’s personal hairstylist for three years

How are you championing sustainability in your business, Cally Borg Hairdressing?

2016

What does marketing mean to you?

We recycle paper, plastic, chemicals, foil and hair, and we use eco-friendly towels (Scrummi) and brushes. All of my colour range is natural, organic and vegan, with packaging that is made from recycled material. My styling ranges are also fully sustainable, natural and organic and I have chosen brands that support small salons.

Who is inspiring you at the moment? I am always inspired by Dom Lehane, who interviews a host of different hair stylists. I also love what Rae Palmer is doing for the industry with ‘WELOVE’, a community of hair stylists that share the passion of sustainability and holistic hairdressing. I am proud to be an art director for the WELOVE Art team, after Rae spotted me on social media.

What’s next for you and your career? As well as continuing as a commercial session stylist for photoshoots and events, my key goal is to change the stigma for home salons. I have created a six-figure business from mine and see it as a lucrative opportunity, so I want to share my knowledge by mentoring other stylists to do the same. I have also been given the position of the UK ambassador for TUFT Professional, using my social media marketing to launch the brand in the UK by educating consumers and salon owners.

2012

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Worked backstage at London Fashion Week

2018

Launched her own salon, doubling clientele within a year through social media

2020

Won Surrey Hair Stylist of the year, leading to her joining the WELOVE artistic team

Constructive

Dismissal

onstructive dismissal has become a convenient escape for disgruntled employees and we have found more and more that employees resign with a special condition to their resignation, so as to keep open the back door for a claim of constructive dismissal, alternatively the employee just refers a constructive dismissal dispute to the Bargaining Council or CCMA after resignation. Most of the time ex-employees refer unfair dismissal claims to the Bargaining Council or CCMA as soon as they realise that they cannot claim Unemployment Insurance

Funds if they have resigned. If, however the ex-employee is able to prove and convince a commissioner that resigning from the employ of the employer was the last resort, then Unemployment Insurance Fund benefits may be payable. Constructive dismissal, also known as “forced resignation” is where an employee terminates the contract of employment with or without notice because the employer made continued employment intolerable for the employee. It may be that the employer created or varied the employee’s original terms and conditions of employment in such an adverse wat that continued employment under the created or varied terms and conditions of employment has been rendered intolerable for the employee. Another example of a constructive dismissal

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Business would be the failure of the employer to investigate and protect an employee from sexual harassment, afraid to go to work and leaving the employee with no alternative but to resign. Constructive dismissal is simply a form of dismissal and requires the employee to prove that there was a constructive dismissal, before the employer must prove that the dismissal was fair. In order to claim constructive dismissal, an employee must have resigned. If there has been no resignation, there can be no claim of constructive dismissal. If the dismissal is found to be unfair the employee is entitled to the remedies set out in the Labour Relations Act 55 of 1995 for unfair dismissals. In order to prove that there was a constructive dismissal an employee will have to prove on a balance of probabilities that: • The contract of employment was terminated by the employee because of the employer’s conduct and not, for instance, because the employee was planning to resign in any event; • The reason for the termination of the contract must be that continued employment has become intolerable for the employee. Examples of intolerability could include sexual harassment, assault or nonpayment of remuneration by the employer; and • It must have been the employer of that employee who made the continued employment intolerable. Employees will struggle to prove constructive dismissal if they leave prior to going through a

Constructive dismissal is simply a form of dismissal and requires the employee to prove that there was a constructive dismissal, before the employer must prove that the dismissal was fair. In order to claim constructive dismissal, an employee must have resigned. grievance procedure. Employees must utilise grievance procedures or complain to higher levels of management, provided that that is a reasonable option in the circumstances. For example, it may not be reasonable for an employee in a small business to lodge a grievance against an alleged sexual harasser if that person is his or her employer. The test for constructive dismissal is an objective

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one. The Court have held that a key test is whether it is reasonable to conclude that the employer made continued employment intolerable for the employee. The intolerable situation may be one event (e.g. harassment) or a number of events that have taken place over a period of time (e.g. racial prejudice). The employee may refer a dismissal dispute by completing the LRA 7.11 referral form within thirty (30) days of the termination of the employment relationship. The employee could request reinstatement or compensation. Compensation up to 12 months’ remuneration may be awarded. The duty of proving dismissal rests with the employee and that of justifying it rests with the employer.

Events

The BIG Buzz Business Conference

A must attend conference, packed full of information that can help you to grow your business, whether a beauty salon, hair salon or spa. Great speakers, great topics, a great opportunity

09.30 – 10.00: Creating business processes in your Salon, Aesthetic Clinic or Spa – Julia Delany With accurate and timeous monthly management accounts, it is possible to make informed decisions about your business needs. 10.00 – 10.30: Unstoppable Social Media & Authentic Influencer Strategies – Ayesha Rajah Guarantee engagement and ROI with cut-through content and high-impact collaboration 10.30 – 11.00: Coffee Break 11.00 – 11.30: Create an award winning salon, it’s all in the detail – Gina Gall The devil is always in the detail and it is essential that salon owners remember this. Gina will be sharing some of her insights on how she approaches each day to ensure consistent quality in delivery of treatments to her clients. 11.30 – 12.15: Double your income! Marisa Dimitriadis We are going to discuss a word that is revolutionising businesses in all industries across the globe. This word is the difference between a business that ambles along, just managing to get by every month, and a business that flies and is in total command of its cash flow and growth

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Monday 28th March, Bryanston Country Club, Johannesburg

12.15 – 13.30: Lunch

13.30 – 14.00: How do companies prove the product claims that they make? - John Knowlton A fascinating topic that looks into the claims brands make about the effectiveness of their products. How are they able to prove that these claims are truthful? John Knowlton is a chemist who spent many years testing these claims and showing that yes, the products work, or sometimes that the claims were rather exaggerated. 14.00 - 14.45: Building a sustainable business - Keynote Speaker: Candice Thurston (Candi & Co) Candice Thurston is the founder of Candi & Co, a brand that works within the Sorbet Group and one that very much wished to change the way the beauty industry looks after the ethnic market. Hear Candice’s story and the top 5 tips that she has for building a sustainable business. 14.45 – 15.30: Is the current educational syllabus working for salons and spas? A panel discussion focusing on what are salons and spas looking for from the educational sector. Is the vacuum treatment still relevant for students to learn in 2022, or is it like

Product feature

Taking care of CURLY hair

aturallyE is a South African company founded in 2021 and owned by Nieshell Watson, Her niece Tessa, later joined her on this powerful journey. The E stands for Ester, Mrs. Watson’s grandmother, the woman she looked up to. Ester was a strong black woman who believed in growing her vegetables and in natural beauty. It is only fitting that this brand is part of the first line of products that will be part of this expanding organization. Curly hair was considered unprofessional and messy, but the Rëzo brand will break the boundaries and do the opposite, as this all-natural product will bring color and shine back to the hair of natural women. Natural-haired women will no longer fear their hair texture but instead embrace it. The Rëzo brand will help them achieve this goal. The Rëzo brand was founded in 2018 by New York-based master stylist, educator, and world-renowned curl expert Nubia Suarez. Rëzo is a comprehensive hair care brand designed to empower the curl-loving community by celebrating textured hair and promoting healthy hair habits. In Spanish, the word “rizo” means “curl” and the word “Rëzo” means “I pray.” Rëzo’s mission is to encourage women and men to embrace their natural curls, which represent identity and self-confidence, by providing the community with the tools needed to care for and promote them through expert knowledge and product expertise. Currently, there are six Rëzo brand products, namely Curl Control Shampoo and Conditioner, Curl Define Gel, an Anti-Friz Towel, and a Silicone Diffuser that fits all blow dryers. Rëzo’s four-step process of shampoo, conditioner, gel, and serum uses a plant-based, siliconefree ingredient that promotes healthy hair and hair growth. Scientific experiments show that the outer layer of the hair, the cuticle, determines how well you retain color and moisture. Curly hair can have either high or low porosity, regardless of its texture. If your regimen has left your curly locks dull and tangled, try treating your locks with a protein treatment to trap dirt, debris, and dead cells before they penetrate the hair strands, preventing color fade and dryness. Curls need to be nourished. This means using a moisturizing conditioner, applying it to your curls from the inside out, and being careful not to over-comb your hair. Cutting curly hair should not be much of a hassle, and thanks to the innovative Rëzo Cut, you will not have to worry about your curls moving around for days. The technique collapses the curly roots and straightens them on its own. This will give you remarkable volume and bounce in no time. With the increasing use of AI, machines are getting smarter. Rëzo Lites is a variation of the Rëzo Cut method and emphasizes color by diffusion. Rëzo is a new haircare line with products that are silicone and sulfate-free, vegan, and enriched with plant-based ingredients. The newest hair academy in LA has opened to teach stylists with curly hair. The Rëzo Academy in Los Angeles was created to teach professionals Nubia Rëzo’s new technique for curly hair. Whether it is curly hair or any other hair type, there can be problems and complications. Nubia Rëzo has developed a simple solution to these problems, making it easier to manage not only curly hair but also all other hair types. The founder of Rëzo Hair Care, Nubia Rëzo, built her company by understanding, educating, and caring for all types of curls. Rëzo Haircare has become a one-stop-shop for holistic care. online@saloninternational

Fashion

IN AFRICA

BY NATURALLYE

BENEFITS Rëzo Hair Care range defines your curls and leaves them smooth, soft and beautiful

100% VEGAN

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Market Place

Shine on From Biosense, the Colorsense ammonia-free, vegan Color Gloss oil comes in a variety of 20 colors. Gentle on the scalp and skin, it promotes shine and strengthens hair. Ingredients include Symoleao Vita 7 (olive, almond, avocado, soybean and cottonseed oils); symHair (wheat bran extract and camellia oil); and Lumine shine (verbasco flower extract).

t e k r a M e Plac Dual purpose cream Authentic Beauty Concept’s Hand & Hair Light Cream is formulated with bakuchiol to nourish and protect both skin and hair. It can be run through the hair or massaged into the skin. This product and the brand’s Eau de Toilette feature a pure, fresh and elegant floral scent composed of a generous bouquet of white peony and accents of fresh

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Kayise Ngqula at the grand opening

Naitvechild opens second Hair & Beauty Bar South African hair care brand, Nativechild, launched its second Hair & Beauty Bar on 29 January, in Michelangelo Towers, Sandton. The store is a one stop self-care spot offering a full beauty experience – from hair to nails to eyebrow maintenance for men and women. “Getting your hair and nails done is part of self-care, so when designing our store, we made sure we created a relaxing environment to break away from the realities of life. We want our customers to enjoy a world class hair experience from people who understand natural hair, so that they leave the salon feeling beautiful and refreshed,” says Nativechild founder, Sonto Pooe. She views the new store opening as another step in entrenching the benefits of Nativechild’s products. Locally developed and manufactured, these hair and body products are plant based, natural and safe. Sustainable ingredients of the finest grade are used in the production and where possible, food grade oils. The range does not contain any harsh chemicals, sulphates, parabens or petroleum and is animal cruelty-free. Nativechild opened its first Hair & Beauty Bar at Cresta Mall in October 2021 and has received requests from customers from all over South Africa to open more branches. “Growing the Nativechild Hair & Beauty Bar footprint resulted from increasing demand from our customers who want to

Brushes BRUSHES

BRUSH

UP With Spring around the corner, now is the time to hit refresh on your brush cleaning and care

rushes are an essential piece of kit, and if you look after them, they’ll look after you and your clients too. “Brushes are something we use every day and just like all our other tools they need looking after; that goes for clients' tools too,” says Balmain ambassador, Simon Tuckwell. “Not only does a clean brush look aesthetically pleasing, but it’ll work better. Keeping your brush free from hair will allow the heat to circulate your brushes better, providing an even heat, which means a fast blow-dry time,” he adds. It can be an arduous process, but there are expert tips and tricks to help speed up cleaning your kit.

A clean slate

ZOË IRWIN FOR GHD

“Regularly cleaning your hairbrush is super important. Hair brushes over time gather bacteria and product build-up which is unhygienic for your client,” says hairdresser and Kent Salon user, Andrew Kyriakou. Below are his tips for cleaning and sanitising your brushes:

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Step 1: Start with removing any excess hair to avoid any tangling Step 2: Rinse your brush with lukewarm water, this will breakdown any product remaining on your brush Step 3: In shallow lukewarm water, add a drop of shampoo and clean your brushes. Do not let your brushes submerge in water for long periods of time Step 4: Let brushes air dry fully before storing 

Brushes

YOUR GUIDE TO CLEANING…

A COMB “This essential kit is constantly in your hand or your client’s hair, so to avoid cross contamination and keep your combs in top condition change them through the day and do a deep cleanse at the end of each day,” says Georgia Bell, Society Hair owner and Denman ambassador. “Firstly, give them a light brush to remove loose hair. Then leave to soak in warm soapy water, agitating gently to remove build-up of scalp oil and product. Rinse thoroughly and leave on a clean towel to dry. Always check what material your combs are made of before dropping into sanitizing solution or harsh chemicals or putting into steam cleaning cabinets,” she says. “After cleaning, I always check my combs for damage – a broken tooth can snag a client’s hair or scalp, so choose quality combs to avoid breakage.”

KENT SALON

A ROUND BRUSH To keep round brushes in tip-top condition, first of all de-hair the brush, fill a spray bottle with some warm soapy water and spritz the bristles, says Anna Chiesa, founder of The Balance Brush. “Using a tint brush or soft toothbrush, gently brush between the bristles, loosening any product build-up. Spritz again with fresh clean water and dry off with a clean towel,” she says. “Do not immerse your wooden brushes in water as this will damage the wood. We added a key design feature to our brushes, a flat top for tidy work stations. This prevents brushes from rolling onto unclean floors when laid down between sectioning and blow drying.”

DENMAN

A FLAT BRUSH This essential piece of kit can be prone to build-up, so make sure you’re regularlycleaningyourflatbrushes.“Don’t forget to wash your brush with shampoo regularly to remove products and hair, to ensure the brush can do its job and smooth out the cuticle,” says Adam Reed, ghd global ambassador.“After the brush is washed, dry it using a hairdryer to ensure it is totally dry before you start styling your client’s hair.” 

DON’T FORGET TO WASH YOUR BRUSH WITH SHAMPOO REGULARLY TO REMOVE THE BUILD-UP OF HAIR PRODUCTS AND HAIR

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Brushes How can I speed up brush cleaning? Cloud Nine UK creative ambassador Lisa Farrall recommends using warm water and shampoo to clean your combs and brushes, and she has some tips for making the process easier.“A clarifying shampoo works perfectly as this helps break down any build-up on the bristles,” she says. “After removing excess hair, I find a toothbrush or hard bristle brush works perfectly to remove product from the bristles. You can even soak plastic combs in a bowl of shampoo and warm water to soak while you do your brushes.”

How often should clients wash their hair brushes?

Celebrity stylist and Alfa Italia ambassador, Luca Jones recommends that clients wash their brushes every one to two weeks. “This could be increased though, especially if your client uses a lot of styling products, especially dry shampoo,” says Luca. He recommends that they use shampoo to cleanse their brushes, as it will help break down oily residue and styling product build-up.

What about brushes made of natural materials? “Brushes with different materials should be washed correctly to keep them looking fresh for as long as possible,” says Gary Taylor, owner of Edward & Co for Hot Tools.“I use Disicide+ Spray on most of my brushes as it can be used on all materials including wooden or rubber brush handles, natural and synthetic bristles,” he says.“Any brush that can be used in the basin are often plastic or similar, so these can be washed with warm water and liquid soap.”

Cleaning solutions for your brushes

ZOË IRWIN FOR GHD

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There are lots of different ways to clean and sanitise your brushes, and it will reassure your clients in the chair when they see that your tools are pristine.“Prior to the pandemic, I often noticed hairdressers crosscontaminating between clients which has forever been a bugbear of mine,” says Paul Falltrick for CleanIT. Becky Sutherland, owner of Pink Lemon Hair for Knot Dr, recommends Barbicide to clean her Knot Dr tools. “I do this by removing any hair that’s been left in the brush then using a Barbicide spray I spray all the brushes fully, and placing the combs in the solution. I would then rinse the brushes and dry them thoroughly with a clean towel,” she says. Alternatively, Casey Coleman, Cloud Nine UK creative ambassador recommends apple cider vinegar and baking soda.“Firstly, use a pintail comb and slide it in between the bristles and separate the hair from the brush. Then fill a bowl with hot water, add apple cider vinegar and baking soda and dip the brush in. Get an unused toothbrush and use it to scrub off the excess dirt to leave your brush feeling brand new,” he says. And just like that, brushes are back to their best!

Fashion

swap for another image

FREEDOM to be YOU Bold styling, sharp cuts and big curls come together

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Fashion

“Thiscollectioncelebratesfreedom–thefreedomforwomenofcolourtoexpresstheir cultureandtheirhairtheirway,withoutbiasorlimitations.ThestylesrangefromNatural hair to chemically-arranged tresses – all delivering beautiful, conditioned hair that is uncompromised.” Avlon Education team

HAIR: AVLON EDUCATION TEAM - JACQUI MCINTOSH, LATHANIEL CHAMBERS REGINA MEESSEN, PASH’CANEL MITCHELL, AILEEN FRANCIS, MAKE-UP: KYM MENZIES FOSTER STYLING: CLARE FRITH CLARE FRITH STYLE, PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BULEZUIK

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Inspiration

Life LENS THROUGH A

Anthony Grant

Anthony’s work is all about empowered women who aren’t afraid to express their femininity and sexuality, here the Avlon advocate shares his seven favourite images

Colour pops

Strong neon colours were used to create this street-style look. My images show women wearing their hair, not the hair wearing them.

The missing piece

Model muse

This model was a muse – I’ve used her for several years in shows, shoots and seminars. This Grace Jones-inspired image made me a finalist at the British Hairdressing Awards.

Rainbow grunge

I’ve love using creative colour and editorial styling to express individuality. This shot from the Kaleidoscope collection experimented with colour and graphic cuts.

I love this 70s style Afro shape – I wanted to create a looser texture through the hair. It’s from my Space odyssey collection, which was influenced by my music.

Double trouble

This was the first time I’d done a group shot. My Neon collection mixed graphic shapes with soft texture and drew from different colour palettes.

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Smooth operator

A modern-day version of a Purdey haircut taken from the Rebel Roots collection – which focused on the girls that break the rules.

Mullet over

The Levitation collection centred on soft and beautiful flowing shapes. Yes it’s a mullet, but it’s still incredibly feminine.

Inspiration

We hope that you have enjoyed this edition of Salon International Magazine

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational

Salon International March 2022

Articles inside

Brushes

Industry news

Safe space

Life through a lens

Salon Design

Career Focus