Salon International September 2021 by Professional Beauty SA

Leases Do you

know enough?

Colour Tips & Tricks

September 2021 | saloninternational.

Business

w e N ELEMENTS

SENSE THE GENTLE DIFFERENCE FORMULATED WITHOUT SILICONES FREE OF ANIMAL DERIVED INGREDIENTS RESPONSIBLE PACKAGING

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*from 91% to 99% natural origin ingredients depending on products

CREDIT:

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In this issue... Regulars 4-6 Industry news Local and international news

22 Colour notes Ria Kulik shares her thoughts and ideas

35 The Hot List New products are now on the market

43 Life through a lens Desmond Murray

Business 12 The low down on leasing Things to consider for your business

17 Talking to Paul Fox The EOHCB president shares some insights

Treatments 24 Colour correction Getting it right

30 Colour secrets Tips and tricks from top experts

Collections 36 Dispirit Hearts Mary Geoghegan, Tinture

44 Men fashion Wild Childs, Alessandro Bonetto

STAND CORRECTED Colour correction needn’t be a nightmare – the experts show you how

Welcome Welcome to this edition of Salon International magazine. First, some good news! With the country now in level two lockdown, we have a great business focussed conference for you to attend. This takes place on 25 October at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg and features relevant topics from some great industry leaders ready to share their knowledge and insights to help you grow your business. Full details of the conference appear on pages 12 and 13. Things appear to have calmed down in South Africa following the recent riots and looting chaos that gripped KZN (KwaZulu-Natal) and parts of Gauteng. However, the aftershocks are still being felt in our industry, with affected salons still struggling and some suppliers not yet back up to full speed. But, we will all get through it in the end. This issue of Salon International boasts two great articles on hair colour, with some great business topics covered as well. If you are feeling competitive and wish to show off

Phil Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg Tel: 011 781 5970

Cover photo Shutterstock

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NEWS

An event designed to help you grow your business Managing your business, marketing your salon and managing your premises are the three conference streams that will run at the Salon International/Professional Beauty Conference and Buyers Forum on 25 October 2021, at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg. Part of the event comprises a mini-expo, with table top exhibits of the latest wares from top suppliers in the beauty and nails sector. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Salon International/ Professional Beauty: “There will be three different rooms to host the various topics within each conference stream. We are coordinating a mix of individuals and panel discussions. “On arrival at the event, delegates will be split into three groups and rotate between the three rooms to ensure that they can attend all the talks over the course of the day. Each session will last approximately an hour and a half. The delegates will break for tea and coffee, as well as lunch.”

Topics

One of the topics included in the Managing Your Business conference stream is sales and retailing and ways to improve this essential income stream. In another session, two salon owners will debate the pros and cons of requiring a deposit on booking. Lastly, staff training, as in why you need to do it and how to get the best, most cost-effective upskilling for your team, will complete this conference stream. In the Marketing Your Salon stream, speakers will discuss how to win back clients in an environment where lockdown continues and many clients have been lured away from your business by your ex-employees,

who are now offering home treatments. Also to be covered in this stream is client loyalty, as well as a discussion on the effectiveness of social media and whether there are other ways to promote your business. The third conference stream is themed, Managing Your Premises, and will include a presentation on how to spruce up your salon on a budget. In addition, there will be a discussion on how to make your salon as energy efficient as possible and how to save money in this regard. Another important topic that is part of this conference stream is the factors that come into play when choosing which salon route you wish to pursue, whether it be rent, buy, home-based or mobile. Comments Woods: “Apart from the fact that delegates will be able to derive a host of valuable information and tips for running their business, the Salon International/Professional Beauty Conference and Buyers Forum will allow them to see some of the latest products and technologies in the market. In addition, it will offer a much-needed opportunity for delegates to get out and about and interact with their peers, something that has not been really possible during the pandemic and extended lockdown. “I just wish to emphasise that all COVID-19 social distancing and safety protocols will be enforced at the event, as safety of delegates and exhibitors remains our number one priority. We look forward to welcoming the industry to the event.” For more information click below: www.saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational

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NEWS

Pinterest has recently introduced a new feature to improve inclusiveness in hair searches

In recognition of the diversity that we have in the world, Pinterest is launching a “much needed” first-ofits-kind hair pattern search tool. Created with Black, Brown and Latinx people in mind, users – known as Pinners – will be able to refine hair searches by six different hair patterns: protective, coily, curly, wavy, straight and shaved/bald. This means that, Pinners can search for a broad hair term such as ‘summer hairstyles’, ‘glam hair’, or ‘short hair’ and narrow their results by selecting one of the six hair patterns to find hair inspiration that is most relevant to their style and preference. “This new tool will mark a much needed milestone for racial equity in the world of coding,” said editorial hair stylist and global artistic director of Amika, Naeemah LaFond, who worked with Pinterest to develop the tool. “Just the simple idea that I don’t have to work twice as hard to find a hairstyle because of my hair type is a game changer. I’m sure that in the coming years we will find ways to even further improve the process, but I’m excited that with Pinterest we’ve taken one huge step forward.” In the past month alone, there were

over 120 million searches for hair on Pinterest and over five billion Pins created were related to hair. “Our mission on the Inclusive Product team is to help everyone feel like Pinterest is a place for them,” Annie Ta, head of inclusive product at Pinterest, said in a press statement. “As a visual discovery platform, we have an opportunity and responsibility to do a better job of increasing representation in the products we build. That’s why we built hair pattern search using computer vision technology to help identify hair patterns in images. “By doing this, we hope we’re able to use technology for good and make it easier for people, no matter who they are, to find hair inspiration for them on Pinterest.”

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Tackling hair discrimination at school UK Activist Zina Alfa offers her advice on how to tackle the topic. Most schools have a uniform (or dress code) and rules around things like haircuts and piercings, to make sure their students look presentable, and that’s perfectly acceptable. But what’s not OK is hair discrimination. “Hair discrimination is when you treat a person differently and unfairly, not because of who they are, but because they have hair that is different to European standards,” says activist Zina Alfa, who is working with Dove on this important issue through their My Hair, My Crown campaign. “It is usually because they have afro-textured hair. For school children, it can result in being excluded from school due to wearing your natural afro, fade, locs or braids, as well as other protective or natural hairstyles.” For more information regarding this important topic visit https://www.dove.com/uk/ dove-self-esteem-project/helpfor-parents/my-hair-my-crown. html

Save The Date: 19 September 6pm L'Oréal Professionnel Paris is launching the second episode of ‘Run Le Hair Show’ on the 19 September at 6pm. The next instalment, ‘EPISODE 02: COLOR, COLOR, COLOR!’ will feature incredible global artists and in-depth exploration of all things colour. It will look at the science behind penetrating colourants and the hottest hair colour trends of the season from L'Oréal Professionnel Paris pros all over the world.

Business

One of the fastest - growing Professional Haircare Brands “Be a part of it!” Contact Lindzey on 011 305 1600/lindzeyt@twincare.co.za online@saloninternational

Business

Mind your own Thomas Hills, has a look at the challenge of how to focus on the fundamentals of running a business when you're a creative at heart In our industry we thrive on being creative and while I love being an image maker, I haven’t always found being a business risk taker easy. But, here’s what I’ve learned along the way:

 Imposter syndrome

owner, and loneliness can be a huge by-product of this transition as you struggle to make big decisions and lead. What I have learnt is that connecting with like-minded business owners gives you an insight into how others run their Think about customer businesses and the challenges they have faced along the way. care, training, you This has helped me feel part of team and why your a bigger picture, rather than being alone. set up in the

I’d be lying if I said I haven’t experienced a crisis of confidence at points in my career, and when it came to setting up my business, it first place… and really came to the fore. I was  For better or worse the rest will follow. led out of my comfort zone To be brutally honest I have into admin, staff contracts, thought about giving it all managing people and projects, and when up at times. I’m not a defeatist, but recent events you’re a perfectionist this can be hard. What I’ve definitely made us all look learnt is that often, what we perceive as a dip at what we do and why we’re doing it. in our creative standards will usually far exceed Everyone I know has re-evaluated their lives our client’s expectations. So always focus on in one way or another. Luckily, after a lot of the bigger picture. Think about customer care, soul searching I know that at the core of training, your team and why you set up in the first everything is the fact that I enjoy what I do. I place… and the rest will follow. have always loved hairdressing and making people feel good, and I love running a  One and lonely business that offers creative opportunities It’s hard taking the step from creative to salon to others, too.

THOMAS’ GOLD NUGGETS

PLAY TO YOUR STRENGTHS When I first set up I struggled and juggled! But I soon realised that to be successful, agile and resilient you need to acknowledge your weaknesses, and outsource or delegate. No-one is good at everything.

2 8

COLLABORATE, COLLABORATE, COLLABORATE

Collaboration is king! It allows us to add strength to our businesses, whether it’s bringing in creatives to inspire your team, or collaborating with likeminded business owners to develop ideas and tactics.

MIND OVER MATTER I’ve learnt that it’s not always what happens, but how you react to it that

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Thomas Hills is director of TH1 Hair in Oxted, Surrey. He is the current holder of the Southern Hairdresser of the Year Award at HJ's British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. He was a finalist in this category from 2015 - 2019.

Business

Contact Ulrica on 011 305 1600/ulrica@twincare.co.za online@saloninternational

Advertorial

Studio One

Hair and Beauty Salon

Charlotte Mattheus is the owner of Studio One salon situated in Cape Town and we asked her a number of questions about her and her business. Why did you choose to become a hairstylist?

What did you find the biggest challenges

At the age of 16 I discovered a passion in your salon? for the hair and beauty trade and So many...Finding the right staff members becoming a hairstylist to fit in with your work became my dream. I style, using the right Making someone started working over products to fit your brand, beautiful is the weekends in a salon and and the kind of image highlight of my day. absolutely loved it. The and attracting the right In this trade you part that intrigued me was clientele in your specific the creative side of it, not can be ambitious and salon and also price to mention the prospect increases. fierce. of meeting new people every day. Making someone beautiful is What is your formula for success? the highlight of my day. In this trade you Understanding and using social media to can be ambitious and fierce, yet remain your best of your advantage. Respecting humble and compassionate. The power your employees. Conducting yourself to create and transform someone is a in a professional manner at all times. feeling that you just can’t buy. Treating clients well and exceeding their

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Advertorial a cruise ship. It’s a must read for anyone wanting to experience life on a ship (What happens on the ship stays on the ship NOT Available on Amazon)

Why did you decide to stock JOICO in your store? JOICO is a fabulous product that is exceptional for all hair types. The service that we receive is outstanding and the supplier, reps and educators are always willing to assist. They are always on the ball with training interventions

What would you say your salon is known for? expectations. Rebooking clients. Being organized. Educating yourself and your staff and ensuring that your salon stays up to date with the latest trends and techniques. My experience working on a 5 star cruise ship has also made me share the following “ STAR “principles in my salon.

We are known as the blonde specialists JOICO has made it so easy for us with their JOICO Blonde life range The technology

STAR : S - Smile and Greet T - Take Ownership A - Attention to Detail R - Reach Higher

If you started a new salon today, what would you do differently?

Selecting the correct location. Using top brands in your salon.

What are your salon goals for the next 5 years?

Building my brand to be memorable and exceptional enough to attract high end clientele. Increasing my client base. Opening another salon (or two).

involved in their products is super advanced and caters to all our clients’ needs Joico is “THE JOI OF HEALTY HAIR” “Hair care that cares”

What would you say is your biggest

achievement?

Running my own business. Publishing a book about my experience working on

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Business

The Low down

leasing

Thinking about taking on a lease for your premises? Denise Furguson of Find Surveyors answers your most frequently asked questions  What should salons know before

taking on a lease?

In short, you don’t have to accept the terms that are offered – you have the right to negotiate the terms of the lease. By accepting what the landlord offers, without first getting a valuation, you are potentially pushing the rental valuation up in your area without realising. Surveyors are the only people qualified to value the rental valuation of the property.

long-term lease, with break options, to give you stability. Or, you could agree to a long-term lease with a plan to sell the salon in the future – that way you can build up the accounts to show how valuable the salon is.

 Do I need a break clause? They are important if you plan to use them. While they do give you a fixed date of when you can break the lease, there are many other alternatives a salon can explore. Often, when a salon owner finds themselves needing to action

 Should I get a short- or long-term lease? Your decision to have either a long or shortterm lease should be based on the plans of your business. If you know that this salon isn’t your long-term goal, you may wish to agree to a short-term lease and move the salon’s location for example. Or, you may wish to agree to a

In short, you don’t have to accept the terms that are offered – you have the right to negotiate the terms of the lease

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 I want to expand into additional services, but my lease does not permit this. Help! If your lease states that you can only operate as a hair salon, this does not necessarily mean it prohibits you from also offering nail services for example. The primary function of a hair salon could be argued to include additional services, such as nail or beauty services. However, if the lease expressly prohibits nail services, you would need to seek a Deed of Variation to amend the lease to allow you to include additional services. This will often be reflected in the rental valuation of the property. A restricted user clause is less valuable than an open user clause. As such, I would negotiate a small increase in rent, to allow nail services. Plus, agree to pay for the Deed of Variation. This would usually be sufficient for a landlord, unless there is a genuine reason for not allowing the additional services (for example, if the landlord owns a nail salon next door.)

 I want to rent out a chair. Does my lease need to factor this in? Most leases would automatically prohibit you from renting out chairs, so it’s really important to check your lease if you are doing this without permission. You would need to agree to the ability to sublet, in order for you to issue a lease (or licence) to people you are renting space to. Many salons treat renters as self-employed staff, but giving away space in your salon, to another

Most leases would automatically prohibit you from renting out chairs, so it’s really important to check your lease

business, is a property transaction and needs to be documented within a lease or licence, not a self-employed contract.

 How often during a lease period should the landlord be able to make rent increases? It is standard practice for rent reviews to be every three or five years. Longer leases would be five-yearly, and shorter three-yearly. I’m not a fan of Retail Price Index (RPI) increases, because this artificially increases market rent during times of market downturn. Open

FIVE COSTS TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION WHEN TAKING ON A LEASE (APART FROM RENT!)

market rent reviews reflect what the market is doing, as long as tenants don’t just agree to whatever increase they are given and seek professional advice when they receive a rent review notice.

S ERVICE CHARGE This would also include a sink fund. Sink funds are service charge monies kept on account for future big projects. For example, roof repairs. Service charge should only be paid for the costs of maintaining areas of the premises that you benefit from.

INSURANCE RENT Landlords generally insure the building, and the tenant pays the landlord back for this cost by way of insurance rent. It is always worth asking for a copy of this insurance policy and premium, to make sure you are only paying for the portion that you are occupying or benefitting from.

BUSINESS RATES You can check the business rates costs online, prior to taking on a property. Build them into your business plan before you agree to a lease.

UTILITY COSTS Think about utility costs and the cost of putting in new utilities. If you require the installation of an additional electricity line, you could find yourself with costs in the thousands, and big delays.

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Denise Furguson is the founder of Find Surveyors and has a background in commercial property spanning 15 years.

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The Programme

09.00 - 16.00

Managing your business • Sales and retailing

Always a challenge, another look at ways to improve this essential income stream

• Should you take a deposit on booking?

A difficult decision, two salon owners debate the pros and cons

• Staff training, why you need to do this.

A look at why you need to do this and how to get the best, most cost-effective upskilling for your team.

Marketing your salon

• How to win back clients As the lockdown continues, many clients have been lured away from your business by your ex-employees and now have treatments at home. How can you win them back and prevent this from happening again

• Client loyalty

Is sending a birthday message enough to ensure client loyalty, maybe there is more you can do

• Effective social media

Creating the right story (storytelling) for your business, how to connect and entice the right audience, influencers and bloggers – what to look out for and avoid, good publicity versus bad, how to use the different platforms to your advantage and what works for your business and why?

Managing your premises

• Spruce up the salon on a budget Since before the pandemic, money has been tight in South Africa, but don’t neglect the maintenance of your salon. There are many ways to improve the look of your premises from a lick of paint to adding plants and pictures

• Make your salon as energy efficient as possible

Make sure that you are not paying more than you should in running your salon. LED lights, timers for geysers, so many ways to save a little money and make your business more sustainable

Free for all discussion

A great opportunity to talk about YOUR challenges. Delegates can ask the panellists their opinions on any topic that is giving cause for concern, a challenge, or a great new idea that needs to be shared. We will encourage participation from ALL delegates to produce a very

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TIGI REAWAKENING BE YOU.

BE BOLD.

D E B BE HEAD.

CALL KIARA NOW ON 011 305 1600 16

online @ probeauty.co.za

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Talking to…

Paul Fox Joanna Sterkowicz chats to Paul Fox, president of the EOHCB (Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty), about the state of the industry and navigating the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic.

What are the biggest challenges facing South Africa’s beauty and hair sectors?

Businesses operating within the hairdressing, cosmetology, skincare and beauty industry face challenges related to the education and quality of the current and future workforce, as well as improving and maintaining standards of operations. Another big issue is providing quality and safe products to the public, as the testing project by the University of Cape Town through the Health and Safety Committee of the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare and Beauty Industry has come to a halt due to many unforeseeable reasons. Other challenges are slow economic growth and sustainability of the growth (if any); the changes in consumer behaviour and adapting business and service models accordingly as the

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Business spending habits of both the consumer and the business operator have changed to that of priorities first before any other, such as luxury. Then there is the fragmentation of business and relationships, where previous approaches to business and associated relations are no longer viable and the attitude of adapt or die has taken centre stage for survival and innovation, with the need for change being imminent. In my opinion, there are many positives that stemmed from the COVID-19 pandemic which have alleviated some of the preexisting challenges faced by the industry. These include, but are not limited to, the fact that training has become more accessible and frequent through online platforms, and businesses have been able to provide retail sales via online stores. The EOHCB is able to engage more frequently with stakeholders and industry peers about matters of mutual interest through sharing experiences and/ or ideas in order to navigate the challenges faced and through such engagements, many positive opportunities presented themselves. I would assume that many salon/ spa owners like myself within the industry have shifted their focus to reassess how to reach their goals in terms of service delivery and how to effectively run a business that is more financially and emotionally viable and adaptable to pressing needs such as, for example, renegotiating more beneficial and/

I WOULD ASSUME that many SALON/ SPA OWNERS like myself within the industry HAVE SHIFTED their focus TO REASSESS HOW to REACH THEIR GOALS in terms of SERVICE DELIVERY and how to effectively RUN A BUSINESS that is more FINANCIALLY AND EMOTIONALLY viable and adaptable to PRESSING NEEDS. or cost-effective accommodating lease agreements.

Since the pandemic, have some EOHCB member salons shut their doors permanently? Yes, but many new salons have opened doors and applied for membership to the EOHCB.

I know that some beauty employees who lost their jobs because of lockdown have subsequently opened their own home salons. Is the same true of some hair professionals?

Paul Fox with Sue Van Rooyen of Carlton Hair

Yes, and there are challenges I foresee as many of those who are operating from home or offering mobile services are not holders of qualifications. This poses an additional risk to the consumer and so these people compromise the operating standards of the industry. Consequently, the required skill sets of the industry are going to decrease as these people focus solely on turnover and do not consider achieving balance in continual personal development, which is important to any qualified and professional individual within the industry. It is unclear whether the industry could deem this type of business operation to be one of a professional standard due to the nature and conduct within the operating environment. Another concerning question is whether this type of business is paying its dues and contributing to the fiscus of the country like those who are operating formal and professional businesses within the industry.

Why do you think some salons are resistant to join the EOHCB? Is it perhaps to do with membership fees? The membership subscription fee to the EOHCB is definitely not a reason for resistance. Compared to other Employers’ Organisations within South Africa and labour consultancy fees, membership to the EOHCB is affordable, reasonable and definitely value for money considering the variety of

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Business services available to members. Membership to the EOHCB is completely voluntary, unlike registration with the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Skincare and Beauty Industry, which is mandatory by law. We have found that the industry confuses the National Bargaining Council and the EOHCB. These are two independent entities, even though the EOHCB is the employer representative of the council as a voluntary mutual interest. Reluctance from salon owners to become members of the EOHCB stems from misconceptions as outlined above and the compliance issue enforceable by the council. Many also choose to operate under the radar which the EOHCB and its members condemns. What is good for the goose is good for the gander and as professional business owners, we should contribute positively and proactively to the standardisation and integrity of our industry. Many establishment owners and

WE HAVE FOUND that the INDUSTRY CONFUSES the National Bargaining Council and the EOHCB. These are two INDEPENDENT ENTITIES, even though the EOHCB IS the EMPLOYER REPRESENTATIVE of the council as a voluntary MUTUAL INTEREST.

employees within the industry are reluctant to adhere to compliance. Not only compliance as per the main collective agreement of the National Bargaining Council, but other compliance requirements associated with operations of businesses and establishing employment relationships, which have legal and costly consequences. We saw this during the COVID-19 TERS applications and also with Workman’s Compensation claims due to Occupational Injuries, as examples. It is evident that not only EOHCB members, but their workers who are compliant, benefited from relief provided by Government and the Council. The EOHCB is a constituted and registered Employers’ Organisation as per the Labour Relations Act, 66 of 1995. It is a non-profit organisation, which promotes the interest of its members by protecting and supporting the needs of employers and legal owners through collective bargaining, labour relations support and quality industry education and training development and

regulation. We are the only Employers’ Organisation within South Africa who is a party to the National Bargaining Council and who engages in collective bargaining on behalf of its members (i.e. the employers and legal owners of the industry). Both organisations continuously strive to provide its members with a full range of services and benefits and endeavour to address the needs of its members with integrity, professionalism and sound business practice.

South Africa is in a unique position as it has both a formal beauty & hair sector and an informal beauty & hair sector. How does this dynamic impact on the industry as a whole?

I am of the view that South Africa is not in a unique position. This differentiation is seen in many other countries. Engagement with informal representatives and business owners with regards to development into formal businesses is a natural progression in developing economies. This dynamic presents opportunities to become more creative and to find new employment practices. The impact drives the professional establishment to uphold and improve industry and professional standards, to follow and enforce required standard operating protocols and by doing so, creates an opportunity for the exposed informal business operator to become formal and to set the example for the next. One chooses to either conduct business for subsistence, or to also create employment and contribute to the growth and future of the industry and the economy.

How has the EOHCB assisted in keeping members informed during the COVID era?

To date, the EOHCB still attends to the reality of COVID-19 in the workplace and the impact it has had on the employer and employee relationship. During the initial hard lockdown, the EOHCB daily attended to: UIF TERS submission and claim queries; the obtaining of permits to provide retail sales; guidance with force majeure letters addressed to landlords who demanded rental payments; implementation of short-time and temporary lay-offs; retrenchments; COVID-19 symptom screenings; and the uncertainty and frustration of our members and the industry. Not only did the EOHCB compile and present to its members and the industry a COVID-19 return to work toolkit, a COVID-19 health and safety video, and webinar consulting about the Personal Care Sector-Specific protocols, but entered into a collective agreement with UASA The Union to establish industry standard operations procedures in-line with the COVID-19 Occupational Health and Safety regulations. During the 86 days of industry forced closure, the EOHCB communicated in writing to its members and the industry at least every second day on our various electronic platforms. This is excluding the numerous daily updates and engagements via telephone, email, WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram and our website. In addition

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THE CHOICES WE MAKE

WE USE SUSTAINABLE AND RENEWABLE INGREDIENTS.

CALL KIARA NOW ON 011 305 1600 20

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Business Many establishment OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES within the industry ARE RELUCTANT to ADHERE TO COMPLIANCE. Not only compliance as per the main collective AGREEMENT OF the NATIONAL BARGAINING COUNCIL, but other compliance REQUIREMENTS ASSOCIATED with operations of businesses and ESTABLISHING EMPLOYMENT relationships, which have legal and COSTLY CONSEQUENCES.

to solve problems, not to create them. Bullying an employer into membership to the EOHCB is in contravention of the organisation’s constitution and against its code of conduct. Membership to the EOHCB is a freedom of association, therefore no-one can be bullied into taking up membership, while registration to the National Bargaining Council is compulsory. Agents from the council must enforce the main collective agreement and should an employer or employee not conform to such lawful requirement, the council will initiate a compliance process which sometimes is regarded as bullying by the industry. A designated council agent may enter the workplace at any time and does so lawfully without prior permission from the business owner. An operational staff member of the EOHCB will always make an appointment and inform the business owner about the reason for an appointment request, and it is the decision of the business owner to grant such a request or not.

Are you at liberty to reveal how many members the EOHCB currently has in both hair and beauty?

No, but I can advise that 73% of registered establishments with the council who are members of the EOHCB and compliant were able to benefit from governmental relief during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Which of the EOHCB services are most requested?

Labour relations support, education related queries, compliance in terms of the main collective agreement and industry standards, hosting of EOHCB competitions and most recently, the activation

we lobbied Government to reopen our industry sooner than the expected initial adjusted level one of the Disaster Management Act and were successful in doing so and keeping the industry open and operational.

How much is your Facebook page, with its continual updates, utilised by members and nonmembers?

We currently have a total following of 10,989 Facebook users. It is impossible to differentiate and classify our audience into members, non-members, legal owners, employees etc. Since the hard lockdown to date, a single post has reached 153,000 Facebook users, a total of 4,515 likes, and 1,025 comments.

Professional Beauty has received emails in the past from a few beauty salon owners, who were not EOHCB members, complaining that EOHCB representatives had come into their salons and were almost bullying them to join. Please respond. As stated earlier, the industry sometimes confuses the National Bargaining Council with the EOHCB. These complaints of bullying must have been a referral to council representatives as the EOHCB is in the business

of the POPI (Protection of Personal Information) Act as of 1 July 2021 and compliance thereof. Continuous support for COVID-19 compliance is given to members as the Personal Care Sector-Specific Protocols remain in place.

What big projects is the EOHCB currently working on? The digitalisation of the organisation and the services it offers; standardising employment conditions nationally through the collective bargaining process; being preemptive towards the National Health Insurance and National Pension Fund of South Africa and the effects thereof on the existing social benefits and the employment relationship; compliance in terms of the POPI Act and The Promotion of Access to Information Act and all expected legislation changes affecting the employment relationship (such as amendments to the Employment Equity Act and the activation of the Administrative Adjudication of Road Traffic Offences Act); and the concept and developments around A-Typical employers and employees in accordance with the International Labour Organisation, thus redefining employment and related practices. We are also working hand-in-hand with the National Bargaining Council to uplift the service levels of the council and also to conclude agreement(s) with the industry Trade Union concerning COVID-19 vaccinations.

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Colour NOTES Dua Lipa

@shmeggsandbacon

Salon owner and Matrix artist Ria Kulik shares the shades that rock her world and the culture that inspires her work

What do you love most about being a colourist?

me this has been a great test of our skill and knowledge.

That I can be creative every single day. I also love creating bespoke colour that makes a client feel amazing.

What’s been your most memorable consultation?

Where do you go for your colour inspiration?

@biminababes

@COZTE2jpua6

Social media is a great place to get inspiration from other colourists – I love @bohobrushed, @shmeggsandbacon and @deeparkerattwood. I always save images that inspire me, so I can apply the idea in the future. I try my best to keep up with modern pop culture too, and make sure I follow the influencers that are shaping trends and inspiring my clients (shout out to Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa and JLO), as well as characters from TV shows (this year Ru Paul’s Drag Race, Bridgerton and The Queens Gambit are big influences).

What are your favourite colouring techniques at the moment? I am partial to using babylights around the hairline and face frames. I’m also loving block panelling and what I like to call ‘Alice bands’. I used to have an Alice band when I was in college, so it’s very nostalgic for me!

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion? Rainbow hair. I appreciate the skill, but for now I feel it has been done.

Are there any colouring trends you’d like to bring back? I would love to see a lot more rich, juicy reds and coppers please! When I see a gorgeous head-turning copper, I think to myself 'I wish more people would do this'.

What are the challenges facing colourists right now? Bella Hadid

We have all seen more colour corrections than ever before, but for

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I had a client who put non-professional bleach through her ends and to cover her natural copper hair, she applied a black box dye, but only put the dye on her parting and hairline. She came in with two months re-growth, wanting the black removed, and the frazzled ends turning into a light ash blonde. The (lengthy!) consultation ended with me explaining that some of what she wanted may not be achievable, but I assured her that I would be with her at every step of the journey. She was grateful to get her identity back!

What colour creation makes you most proud? Creating any colour that is perfectly suited to that person, that boasts health and shine and that turns heads.

What do you enjoy most about your job? The people I work with. Whether it is in the salon or with my creative teams, I am so lucky to work with such a vibrant, like-minded bunch that care about each other. Since becoming a Matrix Artist I have been invited to do amazing events working with extremely talented people. I have always filled my days with doing everything and anything. However, a lesson I have learnt has been that that kind of lifestyle is not sustainable. I am a big believer in a good work/life balance.

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist? Watch your peers, ask questions and practice, practice, practice. Pull in your friends and family to be colour models for you. Ask them for honest feedback – it’s so important to be able to take criticism, and use it to better yourself.

Business

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CREDIT:

Colour Correction

STAND CORRECTED Colour correction needn’t be a nightmare – the experts show you how

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DAN SPILLER FOR JOICO

Colour Correction

Great expectations While colourists can create transformations, you can’t always make miracles happen. “Colour correction is all about expectations,” says Tracey Devine-Smith, ASP global ambassador. “Be honest with your client and manage the process through deep consultation and patience.” Simon Tuckwell, Balmain hair ambassador, agrees. “Overpromising and under-delivering will result in an unsatisfied client,” he says. “This is why it is so important to be

BE HONEST WITH YOUR CLIENT AND MANAGE THE PROCESS THROUGH DEEP CONSULTATION AND PATIENCE

surprises. “Being totally transparent with price makes it so much less stressful for them and me,” says Symon May, colour specialist at The Chapel. “We charge by time using Vish Colour Management to capture every gram of each formula mixed, ensuring the itemised bill is easy to explain,” he says. As well as cost and knowing your worth, set a realistic timeframe for their colour journey. "I think one of the biggest mistakes that colourists can make during a colour correction appointment is to focus too much on achieving the desired result in a single sitting,” says Clayde Baumann, British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Technician of the Year and Wella Professionals ambassador.

Prioritise hair integrity honest about what is achievable.” To manage expectations, it can be useful to be open about the worst-case scenario says Nicola Bond, senior technician at Trevor Sorbie Manchester for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. “I like to have the worst-case scenario known in advance,” she says. “There is technical way to best achieve a result, that has been developed over years to find the gentlest and longest lasting results. There is no need to compromise on time, just ensure you're charging for it.” Speaking of cost, being open with the client will ensure there are no

To give yourself the best possible start to your colour correction, Elgon ambassador Ben Russell recommends going through the client’s hair history. “I always like to know what colour they have had previously to understand what is underneath the shade that they have right now. This avoids any issues further on down the road,” he says. However, clients are not always honest, so conduct some testing! “Once you have the client’s colour history, perform a compatibility test, an elasticity test and a porosity test,” says Zoey Olechnowicz, ALFAPARF Milano educator. “The results will give 

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COLOUR CORRECTION SECRETS

PREVENTING HOT ROOTS The most common cause of hot roots is usually due to not measuring the peroxide, says Lesley Stitt, global OSMO educator. “All peroxide used needs to be measured well and correctly. For correcting hot roots, you may need to look if the correct peroxide has been used.That can mean you’ve used too high a volume of peroxide so you need to use a lower volume of peroxide.”

Colour Correction

you a good idea of whether the hair can take the service, while a strand test can also be helpful to limit any nasty surprises,”she says.

Seamless colour

If that doesn’t work, you could then perform a gentle bleach/lightener the over deposit,” he says. “If those options scare you then return to colour theory, the colour wheel will be your best friend. Just like formulating to neutralise yellow/

CREDIT: KATIE GROVES FOR ELEVEN AUSTRALIA

service, it can only be as good as their base. “Remember balayage is a highlighting technique and the rules of colour that you would apply to every other colour service apply here as well,” says Jack Howard, Denman ambassador. “If a client has heavy banding, or wants a colour change, that needs to be addressed first and charged for before you start your balayage service,” he says. For overloaded ombres, Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional global brand ambassador shares her technique for a more seamless result. “If an ombre look becomes overloaded, this could be caused by too frequent colour applications or if

looking to cancel unwanted tones,” says Matrix artist John Anthoney. “When working with colour, you could apply a pre-tone with a violet base, like Anti-Yellow from Matrix, to help cancel those tones. Then go ahead with your tone of choice for a beautiful result,” he says. And if the hair has taken on too much? “Colourists have a few options available to them based on the overall end result,” says Luke Dawson-Browne, sales and technical education consultant manager for Salon Success. “I would start with a clarifying shampoo to see if that

TIME IS THE KEY TO RECTIFYING A PATCHY HOME JOB, AND IT CAN THEN BE BUILT UPON IN FUTURE APPOINTMENTS the previous applications have been executed a little too heavy handed,” she says. “A good way to make the colour appear more seamless is simply by using the client’s natural colour (or base colour if the hair is tinted) and apply it either with a balayage technique or with a loose highlight foil technique through the ends, to break up the colour block.”

Blonde ambition Colour correcting blonde clients? "Think of your colour wheel when

orange the same rules apply – always go opposite!”

Brilliant brunettes When faced with a patchy home colour job, an important first step is to try and achieve an even canvas. “Using ELEVEN Australia Porosity Equaliser spray is a great start and will allow you to achieve a more even colour,” says Katie Groves, ELEVEN Australia colour ambassador. “Patchy brown box dye? Pick a base close to the darkest patch. Time is the key to rectifying a patchy home job and it can then be built upon in future appointments.” Homecare is also important to help correct and maintain the results of your colour correction. “The product

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COLOUR CORRECTION SECRETS

BEATING BRASS "Any problems with brassiness will always stem from where the hair has been lifted to,” says Jack Baxter, Baxter salon and Redken advocate. “If it’s lifted to the correct base before you go to tone it, then you’ll never really fight with it. If the base has been lifted to the correct base then haircare like Redken Color Extend Blondage will work as its intended to.”

BEN RUSSELL FOR ELGON

Colour Correction

COLOUR CORRECTION SECRETS

ADAPTABLE VIVIDS "When clients first come to us after vivid home dye it’s normally very stained,” says Verity Waite.“Not only do the Pulp Riot semis fade true to tone, so they look just as amazing when they fade to a pastel version, but I can completely remove them back to their original base with no compromise to the hair,” she says.

we’re using the most for this at the moment is Schwarzkopf Professional’s Goodbye Orange shampoo,” says Tim Scott Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. “It is a highly pigmented neutralising shampoo so works in the same way as a silver shampoo would for blonder hair, but it has a darker blue and green direct dyes pigment to counteract and knock out warm tones in brunettes,” he adds. As we head into autumn, consider bronze and auburn for your colour corrections, says Lucy Trevorrow, Celeb Luxury brand ambassador. of colour blocks, colourists can rely upon the GemLites collection from Celeb Luxury to add extra colour,” she says. “It can be used to transform previous balayage, highlights, medium blonde/brown hair. By sending your client home with Amber Copper Brown Colorwash, this will maintain the bronze shade.”

Bright ideas Colour correction can be tricky when you’re working with vivid hues – especially when you’re correcting home colour. “The best way to correct a vivid home colour is to work with the existing tone,” says Amber Letham, Crazy Color Color Squad ambassador. “The last thing you want to do is make your job harder by doing additional damage to the

hair,” she says. “Work with what your client’s got but improve upon it and try to do some repair work. This gives you the opportunity to work with their hair for one appointment, while evening out your canvas for the next session.”

When colour goes wrong Sometimes the best-laid plans can go awry. “Unfortunately, colouring hair can sometimes lead to a result we did not expect to see,” says Dan Spiller, Joico colour ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “If you are checking a client's colour during the processing time and notice it’s condition appears to be at risk, it is vital that you are honest,” he says. “If you are upfront they will value and trust your judgement when it comes to correcting the mistakes made. For less experienced colourists, get advice from your salon's colour expert.” It’s also important to consider any the outcome of your colour. “Always colour on clean hair that has no product residue, especially at the root,” say the Directions ambassadors at Vanity Doll Salon. “Lockdown has seen clients use products such as root touch up sprays, which are essential to remove prior to colour.” Feeling more clued up on colour correction now? Happy colouring!

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WORLDWIDE

JOB FINDER

www.worldwidejobfinder.com

Looking for a job in beauty, hair, spa or aesthetics in the UAE?

Your dream job starts here… July 25 – 27, 2021 The first online event for professionals looking to work in the beauty, hair, spa or aesthetics industry in the UAE

Attend for

Opportunities

Networking

Free seminars

Free taster training

Advice on the Middle East

Recognition

Job portal

Access to recruiters

Find out more: worldwidejobfinder.com online@saloninternational

CAREERS

Worldwide Job Finder is an online platform connecting you to new employees from the world of beauty, hair, nails, spa and aesthetic who are looking to recruit in the Middle East. We are now live for you to search for jobs, watch educational seminars and interact with the employers who have registered on the platform so please makes sure you register to have a free access. Register here for free

Salon Receptionist

Nail Technician

A salon in Dubai is looking for a salon receptionist with minimum 5 years of experience

A salon in Abu Dhabi is looking for a young talented and qualified nail technician to join their team

Hair Colourist

A salon in Dubai is looking for a qualified hair colorist with minimum 5 years of exprience

Hair Colourist

A salon in Dubai is looking for a qualified hair colorist with minimum 5 years of exprience

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Business

T HE HOT LIST Scalp Spa Wash A specially formulated shampoo designed with Micellar Water & Celery Seed Extract to soothe and cleanse the scalp. Leaves the hair feeling clean and moisturised. Rose Water helps to reduce scalp irritation by its Extension skin conditioning Protection German Innovation The Thinning Fight benefits this helps to support a CHI Haircare Lava 2.0 Hairstyling Greatand Lengths is offering four new Aveda expands its Invati Advanced clean, balanced healthy scalp. FX: Iron is now part of the Lava Tool gift sets containing a shampoo, range withSKELETON an Exfoliating Shampoo. provides superior • professional gold metal outliner. portfolio. It features greater Coconut Oil conditioner and mask to allow clients It is designed to thickencordless hair, renew to combat Highreduce Torch Ferrari Engine. durability and versatility with moisturisation to care for theirand extensions at home. the scalp•and hair loss by prevent futurePromo drynessSalon of thePrice: hair £26.50 touch-activated temperature control. 53%. RRP from360 £26degree • High-grade and scalp. Safe for all hair types, • exposed T-blade. including coloured hair, will not strip For more information, please contact any colour Twincare International or visit a Twincare

F1 all the way

011 305 1600

professional outlet store near you. www.Sharplines.co.za

011 305 1600

Damage Control

HJ’s lowdown on the latest professional products and tools you can add to your kitbag, use at the backwash or sell to your clients

The new no-rinse treatment, Defy Damage Sleepover from JOICO, nourishes hair, fortifies bonds and reduces the appearance split endspackaging Tigi goes forofgreen while clientsbysleep. RRP £20 Bed Head TIGI is celebrating 25 years in the hair industry

with a fresh new look and product innovation. Bed Head’s new direction embraces recyclable packaging, and ‘green and clean’ labels to meet the high sustainable standards. TIGI haven’t got rid of your all-time favourites, though their packaging has had a refresh. You might also spot the QR codes on back of pack, giving access to a new digital user experience. Scan the code with your phone and discover product information, education videos and usage instructions.

Curly top

IntrinsiCurly Me is all about celebrating natural curls and recently launched its Hold Me Baby Curly Hair Gel. This revolutionary product gives longer lasting, Remember your Mask frizz-free curls with shine and movement, evenDeep in rainy and humid OSMO Intensive Hair Repair Mask, which conditions. restores moisture With a and reconstructsspecial damaged locks, has a blend of chia new cherry and almond fragrance seed and flax seed and gold packaging. RRP £5.65 extract, curls are bouncy, lightweight and defined.

011 202 5337

011 305 1600

In the Thick of It Magnifier Thickening Spray from R+Co delivers long lasting, lightweight volume and a flexible hold, as well as shine and protection against heat-styling damage. RRP £58

New look

Redken has relaunched its haircare range shampoos, Shifting Plates Freshacross Fragrance

conditioners and treatments into new, Cradle To Cradle-certified The max is the latest addition to ghd’s Authentic Beauty Concept’s first packaging that’s recyclable and comprises at least 93%and recycled range. It features plates that are Eau de Toilette for skin hair plastic. This styler brings the brand closer to its #LorealForTheFuture 70% bigger than regular is designed to complement an plates to provide faster and more individual’s character with notes goal of 0% virgin plastic by 2030. Braille has also been added to effective styling. of fresh linen, white flowers and the shampoo and conditioner packaging. RRP £179 powdery violets.

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102 / hji.co.uk

Product Feature

Introducing New ELEMENTS by Wella Professionals The gentle and eco-friendly hair care line for healthy-feeling hair and scalp and shine, while protecting from mechanical stress (combing or heating tools). CALMING for dry or delicate scalp Mild shampoo with 92% natural origin ingredients and moisturising serum (98%) hydrate, soothe and comfort dry or delicate scalp, leaving it with a moisturised feel.

Wella Professionals celebrates the beauty of gentle selfcare with the launch of New ELEMENTS. This most gentle hair care line is designed for the wellbeing of your clients’ hair and scalp, with sustainability in mind. New ELEMENTS embraces the gentle forces of nature to deliver an experience of gentle self-care. It’s health on hair, health on scalp and health within. Natural origin ingredients New ELEMENTS includes a full range of products with high-performance, yet caring formulas. With up to 99% natural origin ingredients1 and formulated without silicones, sulfates or animal-derived ingredients, it is the perfect take-home range for your ingredient-conscious clients and those looking for “clean beauty” products.

Recyclable packaging Wella Professionals upholds its dedication to more responsible packaging. The new line is all recyclable2 and made with up to 100% post-consumer recycled plastic3. Sense the gentle difference In these times of heightened prioritisation of hygiene and health, often involving abrasive products with harmful ingredients, New ELEMENTS returns to the authenticity of nature. The products are gentle to hair and scalp, offering gentle comfort and calm without compromising the high standards of hair care and beauty. All products are dermatologically tested and PH compatible. All Wella Professionals products are colour safe. Discover the line-up The enriched line-up unfolds into 3 regimen solutions: RENEWING for all hair types/normal to oily scalp Gentle cleansing, luxurious shampoo with 91% natural origin ingredients, instant detangling conditioner (95%), moisturising mask (95%), and de-stressing, detangling leave-in spray (99%) renew hair smoothness

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PURIFYING for oily scalp Pre-shampoo with 97% natural origin ingredients uses the power of Kaolin clay to cleanse oily scalp and absorb excess sebum. Rebalances the scalp and promotes root volume. To stock Wella Professionals New ELEMENTS in your salon, please place an order with your Modern Hair & Beauty sales representative or call our Telesales on 0806 104 109.

Wella Professionals, the world’s leading salon colour brand and expert in professional hair care, unveils the makechange initiative to educate and inspire the hairdressing community on how to be more environmentally conscious. Wella Professionals is making change with a series of upgrades across their hair business to assist the hairdressing industry, while maintaining the same quality, performance, and service. #makechange

Colour Secrets

COLOUR TIPS

&TRICKS

THAT YOU NEED

Here’s the techniques the colour pros swear by From surprising tricks with toner, the app that calculates colour ratios, or turning blonde to caramel in 30 minutes.

CLEVER TONER TACTICS Adele Clarke, OSMO ambassador, and owner of Spectrum Hair, St Helens “Want a great colour hack for when you’re colouring, but that can also be used with your backwash shampoo and conditioner? Add a few drops of the OSMO IKON Elevation Additives. They come in four neutralising solutions and can be used for all lightening techniques. They contain a highly concentrated pigment that helps deliver the perfect, super-clean base for colouring treatments. The Red Elevation Additive helps neutralise those unwanted green tones, the Green Elevation Additive knocks out unwanted red/copper tones (it’s great for colour correcting too), Blue Elevation Additive neutralises orange tones for that cooler effect, whilst the Violet Elevation Additive will remove yellow tones and brassiness.”

PASTEL PERFECTION STARTS HERE Sophia Hilton, ambassador for Crazy Color "One of the things I hear people struggling with the most is getting vivid colour to be even when using soft pastels over balayage or highlights. My stylist, Aaron, came up with the best quick fix that has saved us so much time. What we now do as a team is squirt a few pumps of Crazy Color POWER Pigment into a small amount of water in the bottom of an applicator bottle and give it a shake. Once the colour is mixed with the water, we add more water to fully dilute it and squeeze the liquid over the hair at the backwash. It creates the prettiest, pastel tone that's perfectly even in seconds!"

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Colour Secrets

THE FRENCH SECRET FOR LUMINOUS HAIR

THE RECIPE FOR BEAUTIFUL BLONDES

Adam Reed, UK editorial ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris “French Balayage is a colour philosophy: it’s all about taking balayage back to its Parisian roots to create that effortless, natural-looking colour that so many are now seeking. The Parisians are well known as the epitome of graceful and easy-looking style and French Balayage is just that, it looks beautiful, luminous, healthylooking and completely effortless – yet, it takes a huge amount of skill to blend the colour this seamlessly. It’s for all hair types and colours and can be dialled up or down, depending on the desired finish. The beauty of balayage is that it is a highly personalised service. It’s all about having an artistic eye for placement and painting colour onto the hair almost freehand, blending to offer light and dark and enhance every individual’s face shape, hair colour and cut.”

Karoliina Saunders, Revlon Artist, Karoliina Saunders Hair Design “I have fallen in love with Revlon Pro Satinescents. It’s a great way for us to create our own formulas, and offer a more unique colour service for our clients. They can be mixed with Revlon permanent Revlonissimo range or used on their own. This particular formula is my favourite at the moment: 9.23 (Revlonissimo) + .523 + chosen developer. I change the ratio depending on the client - anything from 5:1 to 10:1. I’ve got to mention Magnets pre-lightener too – I’ve never seen anything like it! It lifts the hair so evenly, and creates an incredible blonde. It doesn’t dry up when doing a global application, has a pleasant smell, and Magnets 7 is ammonia free as well. To add to that, the Magnets re-bonding treatment is an amazing add-on to keep the integrity of the hair.” 

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Business

SCHWARZK OPF PR

SAM BURNETT

OFESSIONA L

FOOLPROOF COLOUR THE HIGH-TECH WAY

GET DUSTY TONES MINUS THE WARMTH

Sam Burnett, owner and creative director, Hare & Bone “Being ready for a colour client as she sits in the chair is the dream, but since we installed Vish [an app that takes the guesswork out of colour ratios] it’s now the norm in our salon. We no longer have to search for records of previous visits, which are often incomplete. Now the entire history is there on the iPad, right next to the Vish Bluetooth scale where we mix the colour. And once we’ve mixed, Vish records any tweaks we’ve made to the formula for next time. Should we need more colour mid-service, we don’t waste time mixing up half or full bowls, which we don’t need and costs us money; we simply follow the Vish ratios to mix the exact quantities required. It’s easy and quick.”

Suzie McGill, Schwarzkopf Professional UK Essential Looks ambassador “Dusty tones are so on trend but they can be tricky to achieve, so it’s all about using the correct toning treatments. For refreshing balayage or to tone panels freehand I use the BLONDME lilac toner by Schwarzkopf Professional within the mix. On blondes I love the dusty tone of Igora Royal 91/2.1 + the lilac toner + BLONDME 2% equal parts. For brunettes, Igora Royal 6.46 + lilac toner + BLONDME 2% equal parts. And for red heads, I love the rosy tones of the BLONDME strawberry toner. For maximum results, apply on dry hair and leave for 20 minutes. This can be a duo treatment for when clients have their root colour on, or on its own for the specific lightened area. For a softer effect, apply to wet hair at the backwash area and leave on for 20 minutes to ensure the correct deposit of product and tone. This will retain the warm, dusty shade but neutralise any unwanted orange tones.”

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Business

ASP

ZOE IRWIN

FROM GOLDEN TO CARAMEL IN 30 MINUTES

MULTI-TONAL BLONDE MAGIC

THE TRICK FOR TRULY INTENSE COLOUR

Michelle Summers Davies, Matrix Artist and Michelle Davies Hair salon owner “For clients who want to go from a golden blonde to a warm caramel chocolate, I always turn to this technique. It’s a quick and impactful colour placement – it’s easy to change the hair in just 30 mins. Take two rectangular sections around the sides and one through the middle of the fringe and apply a copper/gold colour. Apply SoColorSync Acidic Mocha throughout the rest of the hair in a monochromatic application. The result is a lighter contrast around the face that brightens every skin tone and enhances the cheekbones. It’s a technique that looks like I’ve spent hours on foiling, yet it was a full head of colour. Quick for me, impactful for the client.”

Zoë Irwin, Wella Professionals colour trend expert “The trend I am really into is doublehued or triple-hued blonde. It’s how I work with all of my balayage clients – it’s where different toners are used to create multi-tonal blonde adding light, warmth and gloss to the hair after lightening. Emulating natural lightness in hair that would have appeared from holidays abroad will be extremely sought after as the pandemic forces people to stay in the UK (even as we go into autumn clients will want to look like we’ve been away!) Clients also want to work with their natural base more – because they’ve recently seen far more of their natural roots than ever before. This has led to Balayage becoming requested more than the traditional to-the-root highlighting with the foils method of lightening. Clients are requesting an “undone blonde”, which adds a youthful, cool vibrancy to the face.”

Tracey DevineSmith, ASP global ambassador “To give your colour more longevity, extra shine and full tonal coverage, use the ASP INFINITI Intensives every time. Just by adding as little as an inch of intensive can pump up your colour tone massively, especially if you're trying to create the perfect ice blonde - add ASP INFINITI Intensive 0.2 to get that violet kick. Or for coppers and reds you can super intensify using shades 0.4 or 0.6. Also did you know the ASP intensives (unlike other brands) are permanent? This increases longevity of colour but they can also be used alone to create dynamic tones on lighter hair. I tend to add a splash of each to all my colours to help my client achieve a truly bespoke colour, which is unique for them as you can switch it up for everyone.”

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Fashion

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Fashion

tinc ture us beautiful

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Fashion

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“Our skin tone, hair colours and textures, body shapes and abilities – these things make us who we are and that is true beauty.” Mary Geoghegan, KH Hair Nottingham

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HAIR: MARY GEOGHEGAN, KH HAIR NOTTINGHAM, HAIR ASSISTANT:EMILY DYER,

CRISTINA LAZZAROTTO, PRODUCTS:WELLA PROFESSIONALS, SEBASTIAN AND GHD, PHOTOGRAPHY:DEBORAH SELWOO,

Fashion

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Business

SIX insurance types you may need to safeguard your

business

Small businesses are drivers of economic growth and development in South Africa. They play a key role in combating unemployment in the country as the formal sector continues to shed jobs. But, for most entrepreneurs, business insurance might seem like just another unnecessary expense.

The recent spate of violence that gripped parts of KwaZulu-Natal and Gauteng proved that business insurance is an important safeguard for small businesses, its owners, employees and clients against any unforeseen circumstances. Business owners must ensure that they purchase appropriate and adequate insurance products as not having the right insurance products can be the same as not having it at all, leaving businesses with no protection against many types of risks. Business insurance types entrepreneurs can consider and the protection they provide:

Third party liability insurance

This type of business insurance is important for businesses that come into contact with the public and compensates for losses suffered due to actions or negligence of the business. Third parties include clients, suppliers and any other member of the public who could make a compensation claim against your business if they are injured or their property is damaged.

Cyber insurance

The move to digital has changed the way businesses operate and has also created a new set of risks. Cyber-attacks target businesses of all sizes and this can be devastating to your business, both financially and in terms of reputation. Cyber insurance helps businesses cover costs of getting IT systems back to normal, recover from financial losses and repair reputational damage caused by cyber-attacks,

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Business online fraud and data breaches. You and your small business must realise that you have a legal responsibility on the information which you keep for your clients. You can’t lose your clients’ details. You can actually end up with serious liability.

be personally sued for actual or alleged wrongful acts in running the business. It also helps compensate businesses for legal fees or other costs incurred in defending such individuals against lawsuits.

Workers’ compensation

Key persons insurance

Work-related injuries happen even in the safest of workplaces. This type of insurance protects your employees from job-related accidents and illnesses. It pays for medical bills, lost wages and other costs if an employee is sick or injured due to their job. There are state insurances that are available which you must subscribe to, but you can also have your own additional private policies.

Professional indemnity insurance

Professional indemnity insurance safeguards businesses, freelancers and the self-employed who offer professional services if clients claim they are unhappy with their work.

Work-related injuries happen even in the safest of workplaces. This type of insurance protects your employees from job-related accidents and illnesses.

People are a key aspect of a business, and most businesses have key persons. Should the key person be unable to work as a result of death, illness or disability, the business could suffer financial loss. Key person insurance compensates businesses if the business owner, a partner or any employee who plays a key role in the business dies or is unable to work due to illness or disability. Freelancers and self-employed individuals should look into building networks of skilled, reliable freelancers to cover for each other should one be unable to work. If you are a key person in your business and you cannot work, you need to have a person nominated to do your work. Key person insurance pays that person marketrelated rates to do your work. It means that your company does not fall, especially if you are a key person. Business owners must do their homework, compare insurance policies and take their time before deciding on which insurance products to take for their businesses.

As a professional or a business offering professional services, you may give bad advice or make a mistake that cost your client money and professional indemnity insurance helps protect your business from such unexpected scenarios. In many instances, professional bodies require you to have professional indemnity insurance, but make sure it is something you have.

Directors’ and officers’ liability

This insurance type protects the personal assets of directors and officers should they

Key person insurance compensates businesses if the business owner, a partner or any employee who plays a key role in the business dies or is unable to work due to illness or disability.

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Inspiration

THROUGH A

LENS

Desmond Murray

Hairdresser, photographer and men’s grooming expert – Desmond Murray is certainly multi-talented. Here he shares his seven most-loved images

Raven

For this monochrome collection I tried to get the model’s skin to be as black as possible and, eventually, make-up artist Jo Sugar achieved it by applying two coats of black body paint.

Model behaviour

Pop-up

Inspired by a visit to the Charlotte Tilbury counter in Selfridges, I was mesmerised by the very cool, fast commercial head shots and I wanted to interpret this with hair as the key focus.

Garage creation

My 2020 British Hairdressing Awards images were shot in my garage! I got models and make-up artist Ellen K Bridger to my home where we created the collection in three days.

Part of a collaboration with the model agency Named, I spent a day in the agency creating styles on their models. It became my collection for London Hairdresser of the Year 2019.

Texture titan

Another boy from my British Hairdressing Awards winning shoot in 2018. I just love the texture, the make-up, the sheen – and the hair is pretty cool too!

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Boy zone

I loved working with the girls at Named agency so much that I asked to work with the men! This Beatles-inspired collection earned me the Men’s Hairdresser of the Year title.

Bobbing along

Again, this was shot in my garage during lockdown – I really enjoyed redefining the classic bob. So much so, that I feel the bob has come to be my signature style.

Men Fashion

HAIR: NOEL HALLIGAN AND COREY TAYLOR AT NOCO HAIR, BRISTOL,

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SHARI KNOWLES, PHOTOGRAPHY:AMANDA THOMAS

Men Fashion

childs

An aesthetic that embraces a genderless vision with strong street innovative cuts online@saloninternational

“Wild Childs expresses our need for change and escape from convention, inspired by the wild and unconventional spirit of the 1980s.” Alessandro Bonetto, Bon Men’s Hair

online@saloninternational

HAIR: ALESSANDRO BONETTO, BON MEN’S HAIR, HAIR ASSISTANT:REBECCA BONETTO,

ARIANNA SCAPOLA, STYLIST:ALEXANDRA CIUBOTARU, PHOTOGRAPHER:ARIANNA BORSARELLI

Men Fashion

Business

We hope that you have enjoyed this first edition of Salon International Magazine

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online@saloninternational

Salon International September 2021

Articles inside

Life through a lens

The Hot List

Talking to Paul Fox

Dispirit Hearts

Colour secrets

Industry news