Royal Wings / July-August 2015

Royal JoRdanian aiRlines Magazine July/august 2015

Middle East 10 seaside getaways for the holidays

Learn to be an elephant handler in Thailand Cooling down in Jordan How Lanvin inspired Parisian style

Amman Zara Center Tel. +962 6 4614647

welcome

D

ear guests, I would like to welcome you on board our plane on behalf of my colleagues, including the crew who will be pleased to know that you leave this aircraft happy and satisfied with our services. Your satisfaction is our main concern, and we do our utmost to live up to your expectations.

All we seek is to offer the best services to our passengers, an end towards which we spare no effort, focussing on quality and seamless services. Gaining your trust and maintaining it is our ultimate goal.

Royal Jordanian, which is proud of being the national carrier of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is also involved in many national economic, social and human endeavours.

The company’s social responsibility is clearly mirrored in the mission and values that govern Royal Jordanian’s performance of its tasks and operations.

The airline feels all the more proud to have participated over the last few months to the success of several events and conferences held in Jordan. Foremost among these events was the 69th celebration of independence of the country; as part of the festivities marking this great day, a Royal Jordanian jet accompanied the Royal Jordanian Falcons aircraft which performed a spectacular air show in the Amman skies. It was a demonstration of pride in this national occasion so special to Jordanians, and came in addition to other celebrations that took place among the staff and passengers on board our aircraft on that day.

We are also proud to have been the sponsors and official carrier for participants in the World Economic Forum, which was held on the shores of the Dead Sea under Royal patronage.

Almost 1,000 international political and economic figures and leaders from all business sectors participated in this world-class event.

It was RJ’s ninth sponsorship of this forum since it was first convened in Jordan in 1995.

Furthermore, supporting goodwill efforts exerted by different national charities, RJ contributed to the success of Allgäu-Orient

Rallye, which started in Germany and ended in Jordan passing through ten European countries. The proceeds went to benefit hearing impaired Jordanian children on whom cochlear implants will be performed.

At a local level, RJ continued to be the exclusive official carrier and sponsor of the Jordan Football Association. This was achieved through a partnership agreement signed between RJ and the association in the presence of HRH Prince Ali bin Al Hussein; it took place on the sidelines of the Soccerex Asian Forum that was held at the Dead Sea, an important two-day event also sponsored by RJ. This sponsorship is part of RJ’s efforts to encourage tourism to Jordan, particularly conference tourism. The airline also endeavours to boost medical tourism; to that end, it signed a memorandum of understanding with the Jordan Hospitals Association.

We at Royal Jordanian are proud of our social contributions, along with being proud and striving to offer our passengers the best services, and the highest levels of safety and luxury.

And that is the reason why we are proud to assert the following line, which says it all: “Royal Jordanian, more than just an airline.”

Captain Haitham Misto President & CEO 9

take off

Photos: Zeina Barhoum courtesy of Zeina Barhoum; Nurai © Zaya Nurai Island; Jean Lanvin © Patrimoine Lanvin; elephant © The Four Seasons

18

15 What’s On Some of the best events during July and August in RJ destinations, from the Tour de France cycle race to the Rolling Stones’ concert in Detroit 16 Jordan products The rising success of Amman’s clothing design company Jobedu, since starting out on a local market stall 18 Jordan people Royal Wings chats to Jordanian opera singer Zeina Barhoum about how she bridges Arabic and Western musical cultures

36

42

21 Jerash Festival History and highlights of the popular music and cultural event at the Roman site of Jerash, now in its 30th year

29 A Middle East bookshelf Casting our eye over some of the most interesting reads relating to the region, including travelogues, novels and cookery books

23 RJ breaks: Cyprus Highlighting the best tours on this Mediterranean island, with Roman amphitheatres, frescoed monasteries and beaches with loggerhead turtles

32 Summer in Jordan Our Amman expert’s favourite ways to cool down in the Kingdom, with shaded galleries and forest treks 36 10 seaside gems in the Middle East Unusual beach getaways, from luxury resorts in Abu Dhabi to rare coral and bird life on remote islands in Saudi Arabia

25 Stopover: London An insider’s guide to two days in the UK’s capital, taking in a palace, the River Thames and a night out in Theatreland

11

46

42 Lanvin’s designs on Paris The retrospective exhibition of couturier Jeanne Lanvin, and how she set the standard for the city’s fashion scene 46 Talking to elephants A trip to Thailand to the Four Seasons’ luxury lodge in Chiang Rai, where mahouts teach you how to ride and communicate with elephants 50 Onboard RJ A detailed section with travel tips, destination maps, fleet guide, RJ’s recent activities and more

Editor Emma Levine emma.levine@spafax.com Art Director Robin Castle Sub Editor Alistair Lawrence Production Manager Henrietta Hurll On the cover: enjoy unique coastal destinations in the Middle East

Editor in Chief Richard Rawlinson richard.rawlinson@spafax.com Account Manager Ed Oppe

Contributors

Royal Jordanian Director in Charge Muna Eses Royal Jordanian Editorial Assistance Yousef Abedrabbo, Dima Sweis Royal Wings is published bi-monthly by Spafax on behalf of Royal Jordanian Airlines Printed in Jordan by National Press Arabisation services by Projecutive Inc, Amman info@projecutive.com

Farah Shanti Farah’s love of travel started early in her life – and not just for international travel. Born in Amman, she’s happy to call Jordan home, a country that offers spectacular tourist destinations. She gives her perfect itinerary for staying cool this summer.

Adrian Mourby Adrian is one of the few UK-based writers to have gained a mahout license entitling him to ride an elephant bareback in Thailand. He has also published four novels and two guidebooks, and produced a number of award-winning dramas for the BBC.

© 2015 Spafax Publishing, The Pumphouse, 13-16 Jacobs Well Mews, London, W1U 3DY, UK Tel: +44 20 7906 2001 spafax.com The opinions expressed in this magazine are the writers’ and are not necessarily endorsed by Royal Jordanian Airlines Your comments are welcomed to: Director In Charge, Royal Jordanian Airlines, PO Box 302, Amman, 11118, Jordan royalwingsmag@rj.com rj.com

Advertising enquiries Middle East Iyad Bata Front Row Publishing & Media Amman Tel: +962 6 582 0058 Fax: +962 6 585 5892 Mobile: +962 79 714 5363 royalwings@frontrow.jo

Georgina Wilson-Powell While living in the UAE for six years, Georgina wrote guidebooks on the region for Time Out, before launching Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East magazine. Now freelancing from London, her favourite destinations include Beirut and Petra.

Paula Hardy Paula has been covering France and Italy for Lonely Planet since 1999 and has authored over 30 guidebooks.

When she’s not scribbling notes in museums and sampling haute cuisine on the Left Bank, she contributes to a variety of travel publications.

Worldwide Nick Hopkins Spafax London: Tel: +44 20 7906 1983 Mobile: + 44 79 17 08893 Dubai: Tel: +971 44 234 783 Mobile: + 971 56 795 7390 nick.hopkins@spafax.com

Cover photo © The Four Seasons This page © M S Al Muhammady/Shutterstock

what’s on

1

Photos: Tour de France © Radu Razvan/Shutterstock; Forest © Kacper Kowalski/World Press Photo Exhibition; Statue of Liberty © Gary718/Shutterstock; Rolling Stones courtesy of Rolling Stones

3

2

4

What’s on Events in July and August Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival Turkey / 1-5 July

Independence Day USA / 4 July

The Rolling Stones USA / 8 July

The anniversary of the

The rock legends make their

World Press Photo Exhibition Canada / 26 Aug-26 Sep

In Edirne, 220km northeast of

America’s Declaration of

first return to Detroit for ten

This touring exhibition of

Istanbul, hundreds of Turkish

Independence, signed in 1776,

years, with Mick, Charlie, Keith

prize-winning photographs

oil-covered, leather-clad

is celebrated across the USA

and Ronnie strutting their stuff

comes to Montreal’s Old Port

pehlivans (wrestlers) gather

with stars-and-stripes flags,

at Comerica Park [4].

[2]. It’s a powerful account of

for contests in the traditional

parties and parades [3]. In New

major events in 2014, captured

Ottoman sport of oil wrestling,

York, fireworks are launched

olympiaentertainment.com

held here since 1361.

from Brooklyn Bridge.

photojournalists.

goturkeytourism.com

nycgo.com

Byblos International Festival Lebanon / 13 July-18 Aug

Ramadan Night Market UAE / 2-11 July

Tour de France France / 4-26 July

The ancient Phoenician city of Byblos, 38km north of Beirut,

Notting Hill Carnival UK / 30-31 Aug

The Dubai World Trade Centre

The world’s most famous and

hosts this annual event in a

In West London, Europe’s

hosts this annual event, from

arduous bike race spins and

spectacular waterfront setting.

biggest street festival is a

8pm to 2am each evening,

climbs its way through France

Acts include American singer

swathe of lively steel bands,

with a huge food court, Eid gift

[1], ending in a glorious finale on

John Legend, and guitarists

sequinned-costumed dancers

ideas and plenty of kids events.

the Champs Elysees in Paris.

Rodrigo Y Gabriela from Spain.

and spicy Caribbean food.

ramadannightmarket.com

letour.com

byblosfestival.org

visitlondon.com.com

15

by some of the world’s finest worldpressphoto.org

jordan products I started working at Jobedu

selects the winning designs

in 2011 – I was a huge fan of the

which will then be produced.

brand. After leaving Jordan to

Amman, in Lweibdeh in an

year to work as their marketing

old neighbourhood which is a

and community officer.

cultural and artistic hub, and

Jobedu started in 2007 with six designs and two guys, in the Friday street market Souq Jara,

centres and malls.

We design, produce and sell a vast range of products,

Al Masri and Michael ‘Meesh’

including long and short-

Makdah were high school best

sleeved T-shirts and zip-up

friends, who reunited after

hoodies for men, women and

college and decided to start

kids – even onesies. The main

an Arab brand inspired by our

appeal is the unique designs,

roots, the Bedouins. The name

capturing a blend of Jordanian

Jobedu simply means ‘the

humour and politics. Right

Bedouins have come’.

now humour is definitely more

T-shirts, stored in Tamer’s

important.

Our inspiration is the US

parent’s basement, sold

design company Threadless,

immediately at the market

the e-commerce printing

to huge crowds who found

company Design By Humans,

the T-shirts hilarious. Once

and the Lebanese urbanwear

people got to know the brand,

brand Ashekman run by graffiti

we created more and started

artists and rap musicians

delivering them to people’s

Mohamed and Omar Kabbani.

houses. In order to fund the

Shiam Kheetan talks about the clothing design company Jobedu, from its humble roots on an Amman market stall to an iconic brand

in Abdoun near commercial

near Rainbow Street. Tamer

The first batch of Jobedu

Making fashion fun

Jobedu has two stores in

travel, I rejoined the team last

We have many customers

business further, we ran a

and fans around the world – in

crowdfunding campaign on the

fact our first online order was

website eureeca.com, where

from Australia – and we’d love

we received $120,000 in just

to expand internationally. In

four days! What started out as

addition to our online store,

a small project has grown into

shipping worldwide, we’re

a successful operation over the

selling in the UAE and Saudi

past eight years.

Arabia through distribution

Tamer has always been

outlets including Virgin

passionate about art, design

Megastores. Egypt is next, then

and painting, and Meesh had

we’re heading to Kuwait, Qatar,

a passion for marketing. At

Morocco, and hopefully yet

the beginning neither had a

more countries.

clue about business, IT or

The sky is Jobedu’s limit!

production. What drove Jobedu dream forward.

Designers are our creative community, and one of our goals is to give them a platform to get creative. We’re always on the hunt for fresh and exciting people and committed to supporting everyone. When we come up with a new theme, we announce it on our social media platforms, then open it for submission. Our creative team

16

Designers are our creative community, and one of our goals is to give them a platform

All photos courtesy of Jobedu

was the desire to take the

clockwise from top left: jobedu camel crossing; Yo; elmo; mrabbaYeh; sharqiYYeh; urdoni waY

(below) jobedo customers wearing their favourite designs

17

Zeina Barhoum The Jordanian opera singer talks to Royal Wings about bridging Arabic and Western music culture, and her voice on RJ’s Dreamliner advert

Tell us about the early days‌

My parents were living

Born and brought up in Amman,

in the UAE at the time as my

I first became interested in

father was a professor at

music when I was eight years

the University of Sharjah.

old, but I hid my interest at first

I applied for a degree in

from my parents, who are both

Visual Communication at the

sociologists. Little did I know at

American University of Sharjah.

that stage how much support

and I loved every minute of

they would give me! When I

it. Music continued to be a

was 12, I performed for the first

passion which provided me with

time at the school talent show.

motivation and innovation.

Later, while in the school choir,

I had trained at a young

my music teacher discovered

age with two Amman-based

that I have a vocal range for a

teachers, Lucas Czerny and

career in opera, so my parents

Mariana Halaseh. My passion

enrolled me in music classes

has always been Italian opera,

and specialist training. I had so

so I continued my training

much support from them, and

with Italian teachers Alberta

still do. Without them I wouldn’t

Valentini and Walter Alberti in

be the person I am today.

Rome, and Tina Ruta in London.

I also took acting and

I worked on the importance of

dancing classes at school, but

understanding the meaning

felt I was missing out on visual

behind the composition and

arts, especially painting.

the meaning of the words.

18

jordan people Who are your favourite

cultures and communicate

singers?

through a common universal

Maria Callas, Luciano Pavarotti,

language. We can assimilate

Roberto Alagna, Kiri te Kanawa,

and remember we are all

Majida Al Roumi Baradhy,

human despite our different

Asmahan, Estrella Morente,

backgrounds and cultures.

Leila Mourad, Ella Fitzgerald,

Music is the only way to unite

Frank Sinatra, Whitney

the world’s vision for a better

Houston... and many more!

and harmonious place.

Is there much opera

What is your favourite aria?

appreciation in Jordan?

If I have to pick one it would

Yes, there is although it isn’t

be Oh mio babbino caro from

that big – however it is growing

the opera Gianni Schicchi by

and people are continuously

Puccini. It’s a beautiful piece

thirsty for more. Support for

of music full of emotion and

opera and classical music

passion that greatly resonates

events is important for it to

with me.

grow bigger and prosper.

Tell us about other Jordanian Are there notable Arabic

musicians you’ve worked

composers who have

with…

written opera?

The National Music

There have been many great

Conservatory Orchestra and

composers, plus present-day

its conductor for my album

musicians such as Zaid Jabri

launch in Jordan; the talented

and Hiba Al Kawas, who have

ballerina and choreographer

worked hard to build an Arabic

Rania Qamhawi, and dancers,

operatic repertoire.

Natalie Salsa and Bijan Qutob.

Clockwise from above: Zeina Barhoum with her sociologist parents; new album Alcantara; having makeup applied before a recent photo shoot

I recently collaborated with the Tell us about your new

group Mirage, on a rock/Arabic

album, Alcantara…

opera project. Tareq Al Nasser

It features a range of classical

is a talented musician I had the

language where I thought fit

projects including La Traviata.

opera arias, some translated

pleasure of working with on

best are the two main elements

Alcantara has had great impact

by me into Arabic, from operas

RJ’s Dreamliner ad.

for creating the ‘bridge’.

and feedback, and there will be

Schicchi and La Traviata, plus

Classic opera and Arabic

What’s your connection with

soon. I am going to be part of

Andalusia Muashahat from

music contrast hugely –

Royal Jordanian?

a special production in Jordan

the year 1100. There are also

how do you combine them?

RJ contributed hugely to my

in August and really looking

Western classics arranged

I think the two musical worlds

album launch in Jordan. I

forward to it.

by the conductor of the

began to cross since the year

was recently the voice of RJ

Amman Symphony Orchestra,

1100 in Al Andalus and have

in their Dreamliner TV ad,

What’s your advice to

Mohamed Sidiq, Stathis

continued to cross throughout

with their slogan, ‘This is your

anyone wanting to become

Oulkeroglou, Lorenzo Baciu

my life. So working on this

world, a world of stories’. It

a professional musician?

and me.

project was the natural thing

was recorded in four different

Find your pillar of support.

for me. Introducing new

languages: Arabic, English,

Recognise the importance

originally an Arabic word (al

arrangements with new sounds,

French and German. Sharing

of your talent and know that

qantara), meaning ‘bridge’, as I

Arabic instruments and the

the same vision as RJ in terms

you have to share it with the

believe my music should bridge

introduction of the Arabic

of bridging cultures makes

world as it isn’t only for you to

every experience so rewarding.

keep. It’s meant to be shared,

including Rinaldo, Gianni

I chose the name Alcantara,

another album coming out very

improved, worked on, loved,

‘Sharing RJ’s vision in terms of bridging cultures makes every experience so rewarding’ 19

What are you currently

and always in aspiration

working on?

for making a difference. Be

I am currently touring with my

genuine, modest and true to

album – Italy, Germany and the

yourself and your art and you

UK are next – and working on

will surely succeed.

jerash festival The Graeco-Roman city

stalls, exhibitions, children’s

of Jerash is transformed

entertainment and food

once again when the Jerash

outlets. It is a hugely popular

Festival for Culture and Arts

event, drawing visitors from

brings Arabic and international

the Arab world and beyond.

singers and performers to the stage (23 July-1 August).

Located 48km north of

On 23 July the dazzling opening ceremony in the South Theatre begins the festival with

Amman in a peaceful valley,

a flourish, including Bedouin

the well-preserved Roman site

songs from Omar Al Abdallat

is one of the highlights of any

and classic Arabic songs from

visit to Jordan. This former

Linda Hijazi, both from Jordan.

flourishing trading town has a

Later in the week, visitors can

rich history, dating back more

enjoy Lebanese pop icons

than 6,500 years. Today its

Wael Kfoury (top right), Nancy

paved colonnaded streets and

Ajram (bottom left), Yara and

hilltop temples reflect a fusion

Ramy Ayach. Beyond the Arab

of architectural styles: Graeco-

world, Curro Pinana brings

Roman and the Arab Orient.

his heart-rending Spanish

The Jerash Festival brings

flamenco songs to the stage,

the past into the present.

and Malouma Mint Meidah

Inaugurated in 1981 by Queen

(top left) melds Moorish music

Noor Al-Hussein, the festival

from the Sahara with Western

has been a regular summer

sounds. The tempo increases

fixture: this year marks its

when Al Jeel Al Jadeed Dance

30th anniversary.

Ensemble (bottom right)

Each evening the brilliantly

from Amman perform dance

floodlit stages show off local

originating from the Circassian

and international music,

ethnic group.

dance, opera, poetry and

After Jerash, the festival

performance. The surrounding

continues in Amman (2-8

ancient streets and plazas

August), with another varied

bustle with attractions

programme of performances.

including a craft bazaar, book

jerashfestival.jo

21

Jerash Festival: A Jordan event like no other

rj breaks In the northeastern corner of the

the only city in the world that is divided into

Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus boasts

two countries: you can cross the UN-controlled

architecture that tells of its unique history.

border, the ‘Green Line’, dividing north Cyprus

Visitors can savour the splendour of Venetian

(Turkish controlled) from the south (controlled

castles, Islamic minarets, Medieval churches

by Greece). From here, explore the mountain-

and ancient Greek tombs. Add to those the

backed Kyrenia harbour [3] and dine on fresh

natural beauty of its mountain ranges and soft

fish, then head 5km into the hills to Bellapais

sandy beaches, and it’s no wonder that the

Monastery with a 13th-century church and

island is such a hot spot for holidaymakers.

Roman sarcophagi. Or choose a day trip to the

Most of its wonders are easily visited with

northeastern tip of the island, where you can

coastal cities of Paphos, in the west, or

enter the royal tombs at Salamis, dating back

Limassol in the south. You can get to know

to the 7th and 8th centuries BC .

Paphos on a hop-on, hop-off bus tour with

Mountain range, an immense region of plane,

Museum and the Frankish Baths, plus the fun

vine and pine trees, dramatic waterfalls, winter

Aphrodite Waterpark – a must for kids. Near

ski resorts and nature trails. RJ tours of this

Paphos there’s a special day trip that includes

region observe its natural beauty by journeying

the UNESCO-listed Tombs of the Kings,

through tiny villages to Kykkos Monastery [2],

an immense necropolis carved out of solid

which dazzles with its opulent gold icons and

rock decorated with Doric pillars. Even more

well-preserved frescoes.

Cyprus boasts a coastline of close to

villa famed for its vivid mosaics depicting

670km, but it’s more than soft sandy beaches:

stories from Greek mythology. And of course

it’s also a geological wonder. Take a mini

the natural pool grotto, the Steps of Aphrodite,

cruise to the sea caves at Manolis Bay in the

is where the god of love is said to have bathed.

crystal-clear waters of the Akamas Peninsula

You can also take a tour of Limassol to

of rugged Avakas Gorge. Nature lovers will be

floors, now fully restored with unspoilt views

charmed by Lara Bay, home to the nesting

of the azure Mediterranean Sea. At the Israel

green and caretta caretta (loggerhead) turtles.

precious stones are manufactured.

From Limassol, an RJ tour heads to Nicosia,

1

[1], northwest of Paphos, and see the wonder

visit the Curium amphitheatre with mosaic

Diamond Center, experts explain how these

Roman amphitheatres, golden beaches and frescoed churches define this Mediterranean island

At the heart of the island is the Troodos

11 stops that include the Archaeological

imposing is the House of Dionysos, a Roman

Photos: Akamas Peninsula © Plamen Peev/Shutterstock; Kykkos Monastery © Tony Zelenoff/Shutterstock; Kyrenia harbour © Marcin Krzyak/Shutterstock

quiet backwater of Famagusta in the slender

a selection of RJ tours from its destination

Cyprus in the sun

2

Finally, a trip to Cyprus wouldn’t be complete without sampling its local food and music. The Cyprus Folklore Night Tour gives you a fill of local cuisine of traditional mezedes (small dishes to share), sizzling barbecued meats and

RJ FLIES DAILY FROM AMMAN TO LARNACA. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM

syrupy pastries, alongside Cypriot folk dancing and music, to top off a truly memorable stay.

3

23

itinerary After a couple of kilometres you’ll reach the elegant pedestrianised Exhibition Road. Take your pick from vast, world-class museums: at the Science Museum, six floors of exhibits veer from the world’s oldest steam train (Puffing Billy) to a flight simulator; the cathedral-like Natural History Museum has millions of wonders, including a squealinducing animatronic T-Rex dinosaur and Britain’s only moon rock; Victoria and Albert Museum is everyone’s favourite showcase of fancy designs, from 1920s fashions to ancient Buddhist sculptures, plus a well-curated shop.

Walk or hop on a bus to plush Knightsbridge for its

1

stopover

London

Britain’s capital is one of the world’s most visited, cosmopolitan and cultured cities, where centuries of history mix with contemporary style

2

Day 1

department stores, vast

The city boasts global cuisine

temples of fashion: Harvey

galore, but begin the day in

Nichols showcases emerging

the West End with a traditional

British fashion designers – also

English breakfast at grand art

look out for Peter Pilotto, Mary

deco café The Wolseley, for

Katrantzou and old favourite

kedgeree or Eggs Royale [2].

Marc Jacobs. Legendary

A breezy stroll through Green

Harrods is worth a visit

Park takes you along ribbons

just to gape at its food hall.

of pathways and mature

You’re near the Royal Albert

maple trees, dotted with green

Hall [4], the grand performance

striped deckchairs. Walk to

venue opened by Queen

Buckingham Palace [1] for

Victoria in 1871. If you don’t

its Summer Opening

have a ticket for a BBC Proms

London is a vibrant hub of things to do throughout the year, even

(1 Aug-15 Sep) to see the lavish

concert, an annual season

more so during summer with legendary events such as the BBC

ballroom set up for a banquet,

which has taken place since

Proms at the Royal Albert Hall and top tennis at the Wimbledon

plus opulent state rooms

1895, you can queue up for

Championships. And then of course there’s royalty. With the

furnished with Sevres porcelain

a ticket costing just £5 in the

feel-good factor ramped up since the birth of Princess Charlotte

and Vermeer paintings. From

standing-only arena or balcony.

in May, Queen Elizabeth II throws open the gates of Buckingham

here, head west through Hyde

Beforehand, pop into The May

Palace, for its annual Summer Opening, offering an insight to regal

Park along the swan-filled

Fair hotel’s Baglioni restaurant

history. As well as heritage, London is a spicy mix of world cultures,

Serpentine Lake, with rowing

for early evening aperitivo

contemporary art and fashion, all wrapped up in edgy street style.

boats and pedalos for hire.

(Italian snacks and drinks). j

25

itinerary

3

4

5

The best way to see a large city is often

It’s a short walk to Tate Modern, a

from above. Nestling on the South Bank

world-class collection of contemporary

of the River Thames, the immense

art housed in a converted waterfront

London Eye observation wheel [3] takes

warehouse; look out for the exhibition by

a slow rotation for 30 minutes, with

abstract artist Sonia Delauney [5]

your glass-enclosed capsule affording

(to 9 August). Outside is the slick

views of up to 40km. This area is a hub

Millennium Bridge to St Paul’s Cathedral,

of entertainment: the National Theatre,

Sir Christopher Wren’s magnificent

and a varied programme at Southbank

domed monument [6].

Centre; there’s a purple upside-down 6

From nearby Bankside, take a

cow hosting the Udderbelly Festival

boat trip aboard a Thames Clipper,

(to 19 July), and a 1950s-style

a fast and frequent service, or a City

Spiegeltent, venue of London

Cruise boat with commentary from a

Wonderground’s edgy cabaret

guide. It heads east along the river to

performances (to 27 September).

Greenwich, home to Wren’s 17th-century

Browse the riverside’s second-hand

Royal Observatory where you can

bookstalls clustered underneath

stand astride two hemispheres in the

Waterloo Bridge (inspiration for The

courtyard, or gaze through Victorian

Kinks’ famous 1967 song, Waterloo

telescopes. Stroll through Greenwich

Sunset), as skateboarders leap

Park to see the Cutty Sark, the great

acrobatically under graffiti-clad arches.

19th-century tea clipper restored in

Walk east along the river to Gabriel’s Wharf, a cluster of independent jewellery

2012 after a major fire.

From here the speedy Docklands

and ceramic shops. Enjoy pizza or

Light Railway, an overground driverless

savoury pancakes at one of the cafes,

train, returns to the city. London’s

or treat yourself to contemporary global

buzzing ‘Theatreland’, around Leicester

cuisine at OXO Tower Brasserie.

Square and Covent Garden, is a must for fans of the stage. Get tickets for award-winning shows such as War

Horse [7] or Matilda The Musical (buy discounted tickets at Leicester Square’s

ROYAL JORDANIAN FLIES DAILY TO LONDON. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM

TKTS booth) or feast on Asian food in nearby Chinatown, such as Cantonese cuisine at Four Seasons or no-frills Japanese dishes at Tokyo Diner. This central area is well connected on the London 7

Underground to return to your hotel. EMMA LEVINE

26

Photos (previous page) Buckingham Palace courtesy of Royal Collection Trust/© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2015, photographer Derry Moore; Eggs Royale at The Wolseley © Corbin & King; (this page) Coca Cola London Eye courtesy of Coca Cola London Eye; Royal Albert Hall photo © BBC Proms; Centre National des Arts Plastiques/Fonds National d’Art Contemporain, Paris, on loan to Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille

Day 2

books

A Million Steps

A Month by the Sea

by Dervla Murphy - published by Eland

by Hana El-Hibri - published by Interlink

In her 80th year, the acclaimed Irish travel

A luscious, coffee-table volume showcasing the

writer Dervla Murphy (who has written

beauty of the Lebanese mountains, presented

books on cycling from Europe to India and

as a day-by-day account of a long-distance trek

trekking on a mule through Ethiopia) has

along the newly-established Lebanon Mountain

finally made it to Gaza. This empathetic

Trail. The photography, by Norbert Schiller,

account of her stay among a variety of

is gorgeous, while El-Hibri’s text – personal,

locals, from students to grandparents,

poetic – brings the country to life. She notices

has exquisite moments of observation

everything, from the tiniest trailside flower to

that illuminate every page.

the motivations of the villagers she meets along the way.

A Middle East bookshelf Letting his eye rove widely over fiction and nonfiction, poetry and memoir, cookery and history, Matthew Teller rounds up some notable recent books of Middle East cultural interest The Corsair Through the Palace Keyhole

by Abdulaziz Al-Mahmoud published by Bloomsbury Qatar

by Ann Hutchison Sawalha - published by Medina

A rollicking, fun-to-read tale of 19th-century

A lively, engaging memoir that tells the story

seafaring and diplomatic intrigue by Qatari

of the family built after Ann, from Detroit, by

writer Al-Mahmoud (his debut novel) is

chance met Sami Sawalha, from Jordan, in

centred on the unlikely friendship between a

1956. They fell in love, married and moved to

British officer and the legendary pirate – or

Jordan, where Ann still lives to this day. She

corsair – of the Gulf, Erhama Bin Jaber. It’s an

reflects on more than 50 years in the Sawalha

epic piece of historical fiction with treasure,

family business – hotels, both in Amman and,

sword-fights, secret hideouts and all!

earlier, in Jerusalem – weaving family stories around a keen observance of the events of the day in culture, politics and business.

Petra and the Lost Kingdom of the Nabataeans

by Jane Taylor - published by I.B. Tauris An authoritative and endlessly absorbing account in words and pictures of Petra, the great ancient capital of the Nabataeans. More than 2,000 years ago this tribe of Arabian nomads settled in what is now Jordan and came to control the trade in frankincense with the Roman Empire. Historian Jane Taylor – a long-time resident of Jordan – has done a marvellous job, evoking Nabataean civilisation with brilliant insight, illustrated with her own superb photographs (left). j 29

books The Caravan Goes On Petra: the Concealed Rose

by Amjad Nasser - published by Tavern Books

by Frank Jungers - published by Medina

This slim volume holds a single extended poem by

The former president and CEO

celebrated Jordanian poet Amjad Nasser, evoking

of the petroleum giant Aramco

the oddly diffident splendour of “this endless rose”,

looks back over more than 30

the great ancient capital of the Nabataeans, Petra.

years in Saudi Arabia, from the

Translated into English for the first time, it forms

exploratory postwar period

a devastatingly beautiful mini-epic, discussing

through to the tumultuous

meanings behind Petra’s 19th-century rediscovery

1970s at the head of the world’s

and contemporary ambience. Bring it with you

largest energy firm. Personal

when you visit.

anecdotes from meetings with King Faisal and other Saudi leaders enliven what is a

The Architect’s Apprentice

remarkable account from the heart of a global business.

by Elif Shafak - published by Penguin One of Turkey’s most popular writers tells a mesmeric tale of 16th-century life at the court of the Ottoman sultan, centred on the character of Jahan, an adventurous boy apprenticed to the royal architect. As Jahan falls in love with the sultan’s daughter, architecture becomes a metaphor for lives built, destroyed, and rebuilt: Shafak writes beautifully of Istanbul and the inner lives of her characters, in a story suffused with tender humanity.

The Gaza Kitchen Willow Trees Don’t Weep

by Laila El-Haddad & Maggie Schmitt published by Just World Books This fabulous full-colour cookbook is

by Fadia Faqir - published by Quercus

about way more than food, as its

This new novel by Jordanian-

subtitle ‘A Palestinian Culinary Journey’

British writer Fadia Faqir

hints. It uses the almost endless variety

develops a story of anger

of Palestinian cuisine as a way to

and forgiveness around

introduce daily life in Gaza. Recipes for

the restless character of

stingray soup or maftoul (couscous)

Najwa, who sets out on a

are peppered with interviews of local

search to find her father,

characters, short essays on herb-

absent since she was

gathering or fishing – and lots of

four. The journey – across

images inside family kitchens.

the world – leads Najwa into a heart of darkness, where the possibility of redemption seems

The Book of the Sultan’s Seal

remote. Faqir’s insightful

by Youssef Rakha - published by Interlink

writing focuses on the

A deeply complex novel by this prolific Egyptian writer and critic, newly translated into English.

complex human dynamic,

A story of marital betrayal by journalist Mustafa Corbaci is woven into a series of drives around

drawing out religious and

modern-day Cairo, evoking visions that sweep from Ottoman and Islamic history through to an

political themes amid the

imagined future. Rakha’s buoyant prose deftly unfolds layers of narratives in a search for fresh

contradictions of family love.

identities to fit the reality of contemporary Arab and Muslim life.

30

SummeR JordAn

IN

A born and raised Ammanite takes you to the cooler parts of the Kingdom, where a summer holiday is a breeze to put together words

Farah Shanti

F

or most visitors, a Jordanian summer can at first be synonymous with sweltering heat – understandable, given the Kingdom’s sandy dunes or below-sealevel shores. But it doesn’t have to be that way. As any native knows, Jordan has some excellent, incredibly cool summertime destinations on offer to help you beat the heat.

My yearly summer visits back home to Amman always start with a sugary treat: nothing says summer quite so refreshingly as a couple of scoops of fusion delights from the Four Winters ice cream shop in the Abdoun neighbourhood. One of its highlight flavours this summer is strawberry and lavender, light and delicate so I feel like I’m in a field of wild flowers.

With the exquisite lavender still lingering on my tongue, I make my way to the hilltop area of Weibdeh, one of Amman’s most beautiful spots, filled with pine trees and parks and many varieties of shade-producing plantlife. What also makes this old district a haven in summer and a feast for the eyes is the plethora of art galleries, most of them within walking distance of one another. My personal favourite is the well-established Darat al-Funun, which houses contemporary creations from artists throughout the Arab world plus an extremely impressive collection of books. All of this in a lush 1920s Mediterranean villa, with beautiful hanging gardens, a fountain and a shady café on a wooden porch that all capture the city’s cool breezes.

Heading north-east from Amman for a one-hour drive is the historic town of Al-Salt, which holds beautiful childhood memories for many Ammanis.

The name of the ancient city, and former capital of Jordan, comes from the Greek, meaning ‘thick forest’.

Nestling in the Balqa highlands around 1,000 metres above sea level, it still boasts some of the country’s most beautiful natural scenery of oak and pine.

Summer is an excellent season to visit the Mountain Breeze Country Club, where you can dine on local cuisine with 360-degree views of the Jelad Mountains.

The country club also offers accommodation, which might be a perfect way to make the most of the city’s nature and nearby Ottoman structures – the frescoed ceilings of the Abu Jaber mansion are especially impressive – before heading north for even cooler climes the next day. j

33

k

The relaxing shores of Aqaba

e

Darat al-Funun and its impressive collection of books

j

Imposing hilltop Qal’at ar-Rabadh in Ajloun

A little more than an hour’s drive further north, the verdant hills of Ajloun provide a magnificent summer retreat, and are home to some of the world’s most southerly pine forests. Here, the cooler climate (1,200m above sea level) means you can even be active without breaking too much of a sweat. On top of the hill Jabal Auf sits the 12th-century Qal’at ar-Rabadh (Ajloun Castle), the town’s main focal point, with a long, sloping entrance leading to sturdy, jagged walls and a moat bridge. It’s a refreshing sanctuary with impressive views of the surrounding wadis that lead to the Jordan Valley. A trip to this Saracen structure is the perfect way to get in the mood for hiking, and the nearby 13km square Ajloun Forest Reserve has winding valleys and walking trails filled with evergreen oak, carob and black iris (the national flower of Jordan). The local animal life is the most thrilling part; my heart always skips a beat at the sight of a roe deer, a local species protected in the reserve by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature.

35

Having enjoyed the cool, verdant north of the country, a summer trip to Jordan isn’t complete without heading south to Aqaba on the Red Sea’s shores. The temperature climbs a little higher here in the summer, but the startlingly blue waters and surrounding villages offer a vast array of cooling sanctuaries. Myriad watersport opportunities here range from snorkelling and diving in the technicolour coral reefs to highoctane jet skiing and fun water polo, with instructors and equipment in abundance. If you’re avoiding the beach during hot afternoons – I tend to follow local practice and take a post-lunch siesta – make up for that in the evenings with a sunset cruise hugging the waterfront, or head to Aqaba’s public beach on Friday evenings filled with promenading locals. Seafood restaurants along the harbour, or tables out on terraces overlooking the sea, are a perfect end to the day. The flavours of the Mediterranean and Arabian seafood dishes are intense enough to remember your Jordanian summer long after you’ve left the Kingdom.

10 seAside gEmS in the

Middle eaSt From luxury resorts to wildlife sanctuaries and dive sites, here’s a round up of some unusual coastal getaways words

Nurai Island Abu Dhabi, UAE

The UAE’s capital isn’t short of islands, but the new Zaya resort on Nurai Island is really making waves. With plenty of private, expansive outside spaces, infinity pools and roof terraces, this is a truly luxurious beach escape. Think chic, modern and white with both beach and over-the-water villas full of billowing curtains and every mod con. Dine at one of six cafés and restaurants with sea views, or book a spa treatment in a private pavilion where the sound of the waves will wash away any stress.

Georgina Wilson-Powell

Jeddah Corniche Beach Saudi Arabia

Jeddah has much to offer its visitors, even in summer. Its Corniche Beach has undergone massive redevelopment in recent years. Split into three districts more than 100km long, head for the southern section to find the largest open air art museum in the world, with sculptures from a global selection of artists such as Henry Moore. Towards the middle of the coastline you’ll find Fatima Al Zahra Mosque (left), otherwise known as the Floating Mosque. It’s actually built in the sea and makes a beautiful focal point for your swim. The northern end of Jeddah has been redeveloped with families in mind, boasting playgrounds, insider tip - The King Fahd fountain gardens, restaurants and areas on the Corniche Beach is the tallest to take in the Red Sea view. j fountain in the world.

37

MAS is a co-educational, college preparatory day school for grades KG-12, located in one of the most afuent areas of Amman. The school program is based on the American school curriculum (Common Core Standards) taught at American schools both in the U.S. and abroad. Our program provides our students with the advantage and exibility of easily transferring to international schools across the globe and in the United States. The Modern American School is proud to be associated with the American International School Worldwide Network.

Photos: (previous page) Nurai Island photo courtesy of Zaya Nurai Island; Mosque © M S AlMuhammady/Shutterstock; (this page) Banana Island courtesy of Banana Island; gazelles © Muzna Butt/Shutterstock;

Banana Island Qatar Anantara’s latest Middle Eastern resort comes fully furnished with over-the-water villas on this beautiful island, located a 20-minute boat ride from the coast of capital city Doha. After arriving by luxury ferry or private helicopter find everything here a family needs to have a wonderful holiday – a cinema, a bowling alley, a surf pool and 100-metre lane pool, plus no fewer than nine restaurants, such as Ted’s, an American-style diner. Couples can dine in majestic majlis (‘place of sitting’) on the beach, while the supervised kids’ club is full of pool tables, video games and plenty of activities for the younger ones.

Umm Al Quwain UAE

Abu Qir Egypt

Dead Sea Jordan

Back in the 6th century, Heracleion and Canopus, the sunken cities that are being excavated at Abu Qir, were trading hot spots for the whole Mediterranean. One of the most interesting diving and beach locales in the region, Abu Qir, which sits at the northernmost point on the peninsula 20km from Alexandria, is a sight to behold for any diving enthusiasts. Egypt is in the process of creating an underwater museum to show off its sunken treasures.

The famous lake, the lowest point on earth at 400m below sea level, is dubbed the world’s largest natural spa. It’s not a place for swimming – instead enjoy floating and bobbing in the heavily salty waters (32%). Make the most of the therapeutic benefits of the mud, chock-full of minerals and salts which have medically-proven benefits. Slather yourself on the shores with the black mud, or head to one of many luxury resorts where you can enjoy their spa treatments and therapies.

39

A sparsely populated emirate, Umm Al Quwain is home to diverse flora and fauna. Head to its sandy coast for a weekend away from the crowds, a short drive 45km northeast from insider tip - Dreamland Dubai. You’ll discover blacktip reef sharks Aqua Park in Umm Al and green turtles in Quwain has 30 rides the sea, and flamingos and overnight camping and cormorants in facilities to enjoy. the dense mangroves, which connect seven islands off its coast. Arabian gazelles (above) have recently been re-introduced and appear to be flourishing, too.

Hire a kayak or take a boat ride to fully discover its rich ecosystem. j

Naqb Beach Egypt

Bonita Bay Lebanon

Tihamah Plains Saudi Arabia

Simaisma beach Qatar

Summer isn’t summer in Lebanon until you’ve indulged in a couple of swanky beach resorts. Out at Batroun, Bonita Bay is one of the nicest on offer. While it’s not as hedonistic as the five-star pool parties in Beirut, the resort offers live music on a Sunday or a romantic spot for a sunset meal in its fine dining restaurant any day of the week. Inspired by Greece with its lavish gardens, a crisp clean lap pool and attentive staff, for a beach-side treat, Bonita Bay is worth the entrance fee.

The Tihamah Plains stretch up the west coast of Saudi Arabia and beyond, running from the Gulf of Aqaba to the Bab el Mandeb Straight in Yemen. Sweltering in summer, they still offer one of the last truly rustic desert beach experiences in the Middle East.

There are more than 1,000 islands off this coastline, with sandy beaches and pristine coral reefs to explore. At the southern end of the Saudi coast discover the Farasan Islands, home to rare crude amber, bird species and sea life.

For a free beach day in Qatar, Simaisma is the place to head.

Approximately 27km outside Doha, this village is happy to host families who want to splash around in shallow waters. There are mangroves where children can find small birds and fish and learn about the Middle East’s delicate ecosystem. Volleyball and soccer areas and playgrounds are among the activities back on land. There’s also a park a little further back from the beach, if the hot summer sand proves too much.

40

Photos: Naqb Beach underwater scene © Volodymyr Goinyk/Shutterstock; Bonita Bay courtesy of Bonita Bay

Part of the Sharm El Sheikh coastline, Naqb Beach overlooks the Gulf of Aqaba and has a unique formation. The water is only ankle deep for around a kilometre from shore, before dropping off a steep cliff, making it perfect for families with small children and keen insider tip - Naqb means divers. Despite being on the fringe of the Sinai desert, one of the most barren spots on earth, Naqb beach ‘shipwreck’ and this area brims with lush life, and slightly fewer tourists than certainly has plenty. You can’t other Egyptian resort spots. Book a desert adventure miss the World War II wreck or learn to dive in one of the most beautiful beaches that’s so close to shore you can in the region. snorkel and dive around it.

lanvin’s designs

PariS on

How couturier Jeanne Lanvin helped establish Paris as the world’s fashion capital WORDS

Paula Hardy

T

here is no city that takes fashion more seriously than Paris. It is the home of haute couture and the city of the Sun King, Louis XIV, whose dazzling court catapulted French fashion into the global spotlight and gave birth to the luxury goods business.

In July, when the sun gives the Champs Elysées a warm honeyed glow, new fashion fantasies are born at Paris’s exclusive haute couture shows. These shows with their magical creations demonstrate the very frontiers of craftsmanship, where the talent of the métiers d’art (master artisans) are put to the ultimate test in translating a designer’s vision of beauty into a wearable garment.

Like Paris itself, haute couture is about dreams and romance, but many debate its relevance in the modern world. One man who would dispute this is Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera, the city’s renowned museum of fashion currently holding a retrospective of couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946), to 23 August.

Before Coco Chanel, Lanvin was the force in fashion, having launched her couture house – the oldest in Paris – in 1889. She blazed a trail as an entrepreneur, creating the world’s first luxury lifestyle brand as she moved from designing hats to children’s clothes, women’s wear, lingerie and interior décor. She opened shops in Biarritz, Barcelona and Buenos Aires, and invented the idea of four fashion seasons. In 1927, on her daughter Marguerite’s 30th birthday, she celebrated by launching the legendary perfume Arpège with its famous motherand-daughter logo that became the visual identity of the brand.

The scope of her vision is striking in its modernity. She was the first designer to give holistic thought to modern lifestyles. j

e

The Lanvin exhibition with vintage photos of the great designer

i

Palais Galliera, hosting the Lanvin exhibition

ii

1930s La Diva design by Lanvin

43

e

Bespoke handbag designer Kasia Dietz leads private fashion tours

i

The Debutante Ball held at the luxury Hotel de Crillon is a showcase for top fashion designers

f

Gehry’s new Fondation Louis Vuitton

RJ FLIES DAILY FROM AMMAN TO PARIS. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM

44

and set within an old engraver’s workshop in the Passage des Panoramas. Further east, the cool Marais district has emerging designers and vintage specialists such as Violette et Léonie, Valentine Gauthier and French Trotters. Private fashion tours led by handbag designer Kasia Dietz open the door to many more.

Also getting a thoroughly Parisian makeover is the historic Forum des Halles. Only Paris could rejuvenate an old wholesale food market in such style. Meadow-like gardens now surround a giant golden-hued glass canopy, which will enclose a glittering line-up of gourmet restaurants and 130 globalbrand boutiques. The crossover between fashion, food, art and architecture would have seemed natural to Lanvin who presciently understood that good design affects every aspect of our lives.

She would also, no doubt have approved of the spectacular new Fondation Louis Vuitton, a new contemporary art museum and cultural centre commissioned by another esteemed Parisian fashion house, and set in the Bois de Boulogne. Built by Canadian architect Frank Gehry its shimmering, glass-panelled exterior is both visually surprising and technologically smart, just like Lanvin’s designs. Its aim is to reinforce the connection between Louis Vuitton and cutting edge art and design. More than that, it reminds us that creativity has always existed at the crossroads between art and consumerism.

The way we see ourselves, our bodies and our cities shapes fashion for every season, just as fashion shapes us.

Photos: (previous page) La Diva design © Patrimoine Lanvin; Jeanne Lanvin with Laure Albin Guillot © Laure Albin Guillot/Roger-Viollet; Palais Galliera © Paris Tourist Office, photographer Daniel Thierry; (this page) Kasia Dietz © Chloe Lodge; Debutante Ball © Le Bal/Renault/Payal New York (jewellery)/Hotel de Crillon; Frank Gehry Fondation Louis Vuitton © 2014 Todd Eberle

Lanvin understood that good design affects our lives

Despite the bows, ribbons and pearls that ripple through her silk georgette dresses, her clothes are effortlessly modern and wearable, their apparent simplicity hiding a cleverness of cut and meticulous craftsmanship that is the true signature of haute couture.

One focus in the exhibition is a catalogue of exquisite dresses that, even today, would fit in fine at the famous Debutante Ball, held at the revamped Hôtel de Crillon.

Influenced by the graphic quality of Art Deco, the rich ornamentation of embroidery, crystals, bows and beading is expressed judiciously.

The outlook, too, is international.

Take the lamé dress, with its blue silk train quilted in the Japanese obi belt technique, that was inspired by her extensive travels.

Other beaded silk dresses from the 1920s could easily be mistaken for a modern Lanvin piece from current artistic director Alber Elbaz whose bejewelled mini dresses are de rigeur. Thanks to the summer sales (24 June-4 August), you can buy one for a snip of the usual price at Lanvin’s historic atelier on Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré. It is located just steps away from the Golden Triangle – an area bordered by the ChampsElysées, Avenue Montaigne and Avenue Marceau – where you’ll find the world’s most famous fashion houses.

Grands magasins (department stores) such as Galeries Lafayette, Le Printemps and Le Bon Marché are other big-name fashion addresses, while the arcades around the Louvre hide posh boutiques such as La Petite Robe Noire, where Didier Ludot collects and sells little black dresses from the 1920s to 1990s. You’ll want to wear one to the new Caff è Stern, designed by Philippe Starck

talKing tO

eLePhants A Thai adventure in Chiang Rai is a rare chance to experience these Asian beasts Words

Adrian Mourby

T

he elephants came to breakfast this morning. There were two of them in front of our open-air dining room, each weighing at least 40 times my weight.

Two mahouts (elephant handlers) were squatting below feeding them bananas. I was invited to join in but it is rather worrying to have one of those trunks snaking its way towards you. Elephants not only sniff out where you are holding bananas, but use the tip of their trunk to take and store the odd banana for later. They eat all the time – but then they have a lot of weight to keep up.

‘Talk to her,’ said one of the mahouts indicating that I should stroke the flank of this creature that’s about the size of an armoured car. I did my best but she paid no attention. Ten of the 19 elephants at Chiang Rai Camp really like people and enjoy interacting but my elephant was thinking bananas and not much else. By the end of the day, however, I would have learned to shout commands and use my own movements to communicate what I wanted her to do.

47

There are elephants in zoos in Thailand and you’ll also find them giving rides in cities and on beaches.

But the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Chiang Rai (a 90-minute flight from Bangkok) is the only one where you actually live among them, feed them, ride them and wake to see them grazing on the plain below. After Thailand outlawed logging, its working elephant population was redundant. Four Seasons rescued some off the city streets and brought them with their mahouts to Chiang Rai. The ones you learn to ride here are all female, not because male elephants won’t accept riders but because in a camp like this the elephants have to work side by side and female elephants are much better at this than males.

That afternoon I warily put on my indigo mahout costume: short baggy trousers, a short-sleeved top and a pink sash which I was told to tie tightly because it would be my ‘safety belt’. Then four of us, all first timers, were led to the stable where our elephants were assembled. We were introduced to each individually, and encouraged to pat and talk to them. j

My mahout told me that if an elephant’s trunk comes near you and you breathe out towards it she will remember your smell. We were told how to command our elephants to lie down so we could climb on board our new means of transport. And then we were off.

I’d been told to sit astride the elephant’s neck rather than on its shoulders. My elephant then fl icked her ears back, which held my legs in place. And so we walked on, each of us with our elephant’s mahout on foot nearby just in case anything went wrong.

I discovered that pai means go forward and baen means turn, accompanied by a light kick to the appropriate ear. There were also words for stop (‘ how!’) and backwards (‘sook sook sook’) but this had to be reinforced by rocking yourself backwards and forwards. On the whole, however, my elephant followed what the others did. When they walked she followed, and when they stopped to twist their trunks round some tasty bamboo, she foraged too, completely ignoring my commands of Pai! Pai! Our first afternoon ended any inhibitions about elephants. We learned to dismount by commanding the elephant to bow her head down, at which point you could slide down the forehead. You could climb up that way too, a good way of realising that an elephant’s face is actually bigger than your body.

The afternoon was hot so after two hours, we led our elephants to the river that marks the border

between Thailand and Myanmar to let them fi ll up and cool off. One of them used her trunk to spray her back – and therefore her rider – liberally. But more adventure was to come when our agile mahouts climbed on behind us as the elephants waded into the middle of the brown, fast-flowing river. It was no hardship to have my legs get wet but then our grateful elephants lay down to cool off properly, rolling from side to side. This was when my pink-scarf ‘safety belt’ came in handy, as the mahout behind me grabbed hold of it so I wouldn’t be tipped into the river.

On our way back to camp we four novice mahouts suddenly found ourselves chatting and laughing. The elephants had broken the ice between us as well as between us and them. The next morning when I met elephants at breakfast time I went straight up and embraced one of them. She ignored me, of course.

e

Adrian Mourby, the novice mahout

j

RJ FLIES DAILY FROM AMMAN TO BANGKOK. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ .COM

Luxury camp at the Four Seasons

48

Photos: (above) Adrian Mourby © Kate Tadman-Mourby; all other photos courtesy of Four Seaons.

You then realise that an elephant’s face is bigger than your body

onboard rj

A world of stories

52 54 56 57 60 64 68 69 70

51

RJ activities Royal Plus rewards A day in the life Fleet Transit maps Destination maps Travel tips Inflight entertainment Passenger info

onboard rj ActivitiES

1

2

On the go A round-up of recent events, launches and more, all in association with RJ

3

RJ renews deal as official carrier for JFA Amman / 4 May

RJ sponsors Soccerex conference Dead Sea / 3-4 May

Musical Mamma Mia sponsored by RJ Amman / 14-16 May

RJ official carrier for World Economic Forum Amman / 19 May

RJ has renewed its agreement

RJ served as the official carrier

A smash-hit musical based

For a ninth successive year,

with the Jordan Football

of Soccerex Asian Forum for

on the songs of Swedish

RJ served as the national

Association in the presence

a second year. The two-day

pop sensations ABBA and

carrier and a sponsor for the

of HRH Prince Ali, president

networking event hosted

composed by two if its former

World Economic Forum [3],

of the JFA. This is the sixth

speakers from world football,

members, Mamma Mia was

an international institution

consecutive year that the airline

such as HRH Prince Ali and

brought to Jordan by RJ after

‘committed to improving the

continues as its official carrier,

former Arsenal and English

reaching a global audience of

state of the world through

and sponsor of the association

FA vice chairman David Dein.

54 million people [1].

public-private cooperation’.

The production, featuring

and its national teams [4].

This sponsorship cemented

86 musicians and performers,

RJ’s reputation as a quality

lit up Amman’s Prince Hamza

service airline that offers a wide

signing,” said RJ’s CEO and

Marketing Kingdom sponsored by RJ Amman / 10-11 May

Arena, wowing crowds with its

route network and extends

President, Captain Misto. He

Marketing Kingdom, the

mix of recognisable songs and

facilities to the hundreds of

also expressed admiration for

fast-growing international

extravangant costumes. Also

participants from more than

the Prince’s efforts to improve

marketing summit, made

adapted into a hit Hollywood

50 countries, capable of

Jordanian football, and how

its debut in Jordan this year.

movie, the story interweaves

transporting leaders from the

proud RJ was to transport the

RJ was the official carrier for

ABBA’s best-loved songs

political and business worlds.

representatives of the national

the event, which featured

alongside a tale of a wedding

teams and associations around

innovative presentations from

on a Greek island – with an

of encouraging large-scale

the world.

Google, Coca-Cola and others.

unusual twist.

conferences in Jordan.

“We are pleased that HRH Prince Ali attended this

52

It also continues RJ’s work

onboard rj ActIvItIES

4

2

5

5

RJ marks Jordan Independence Day Amman / 24 May

Allgäu-Orient Rallye team visits RJ Amman / 27 May

Hollywood’s Stephen Baldwin praises RJ Amman / 28 May

RJ signs new deal to boost medical tourism Amman / 30 May

RJ took part in celebrations for

A two-to-three week race from

Best known for his roles in

RJ has announced a strategic

the 69th Jordan Independence

Germany to Jordan, the 10th

Oscar-winning movies such as

partnership with the Jordan

Day, by flying one of its aircraft

annual Allgäu-Orient Rallye

Born on the Fourth of July and

Hospitals Association.

alongside the Royal Jordanian

arrived in Amman this year on

The Usual Suspects, Stephen

Together they will co-operate

Falcons aerobatic fleet at

26 May. The following day the

Baldwin recently visited Jordan

with the Jordan Tourism Board

low altitude over Amman [2].

team behind the event were

to film forthcoming feature

to attract tourists seeking

Social media influencers and

welcomed to RJ by the airline’s

The Heart and Hope of Jordan.

medical treatment.

bloggers were invited to RJ’s

president and CEO Captain

headquarters to enjoy the air

Haitham Misto [5].

Captain Haitham Misto

were 12 RJ employees

card. Baldwin praised the

New RJ Airbus deal with AFI KLM E&M Paris / 17 Jun

who drove vehicles that RJ

hospitality of the RJ crew and

Air France Industries KLM

launch of RJ’s #LoveRJO social

sponsored. Those vehicles

the high levels of comfort on

Engineering & Maintenance

media campaign, with a map of

and others will be sold to raise

his journey. He added that

Group will continue to cover

Jordan that lit up each time it

money for cochlear implants

he hoped his new film, which

component support for RJ’s

was tweeted, and a unique icon

for hearing impaired Jordanian

focusses on the humane role

Airbus A330 aircraft after

was designed to adorn branded

children. RJ’s participation

Jordan plays in hosting millions

their agreement was renewed

merchandise especially for

is part of its social corporate

of refugees from neigbouring

during the Paris Air Show 2015.

Jordan’s Independence Day:

responsibility and support for

countries, espeically Syria,

The contract will run until the

Love RJ Love JO.

Jordanian success stories.

would highlight its efforts.

retirement of the A330s.

show, followed by lunch of traditional Jordanian mansaf.

The event also marked the

presented the Hollywood star with a Royal Plus’ Platinum

Among the participants

53

O N B O A R D R J R O YA L P L U S

Exciting summer offers from our partners ROCKETMILES SUMMER PROMOTION As a first-time Rocketmiles customer, earn 5,000 bonus Royal Plus Miles when you book a hotel for 3 or more nights — that’s in addition to the 1,000–5,000 miles earned per night, for every stay! Book by 30 September 2015 and reach your next vacation faster. For more details visit rocketmiles.com/rj-5k-summer

JOIN THE SIXT ADVANTAGE CIRCLE, GET YOUR SIXT CARD FREE OF CHARGE

EARN 1,500 MILES WITH SIXT This summer, dream of exploring somewhere new at your own pace with Sixt from July to September. You’ll also earn 1,500 bonus miles, which is triple the standard amount. Get behind the wheel and go in search of the views that you only see in the travel books. The largest BMW fleet in the world awaits you. This exclusive offer is available worldwide. So book now, make the most of your summer getaway and feel the motion. Book now at sixt.com/royal-jordanian

54

With Sixt, you can earn valuable Miles when you rent a car and receive exclusive benefits.

As a Royal Plus member you can now apply for a free of charge Sixt card matching your Royal Plus tier and enjoy discounts, upgrades and premium services worldwide.

Learn more at sixt.com/royal-jordanian

O N B O A R D R J R O YA L P L U S

PARTNERS

ROYAL PLUS REWARDS Earn Miles on Royal Jordanian and oneworld flights EXTRA PLUSES The frequent flyers

TIER BONUS Members receive tier

programme repays your loyalty to the

bonuses with every flight they make

airline with air miles. Royal Plus delivers

on RJ. The higher the tier, the higher

quality services, more rewards and extra

the bonus.

flexibility. You’ll start earning miles and segment points from the first flight on RJ or any oneworld partner.

Ruby Silver

 Sapphire Gold

 Emerald Platinum



Tier Qualification

Tier Maintenance

Tier Bonus

15,000 miles

12,000 miles

15%

14 segments

12 segments

15%

Tier Qualification

Tier Maintenance

Tier Bonus

35,000 miles

30,000miles

35%

28 segments

24 segments

35%

Tier Qualification

Tier Maintenance

Tier Bonus

55,000 miles

50,000 miles

50%

42 segments

36 segments

50%

CLASS BONUS

Class

Class Bonus Classes

Members earn bonus miles

Economy Restricted

0%

based on the ticket fare and the class in which they travel.

The more flexible the fare, the higher the bonus.

R,O,Q, W,S,V,M

Economy Flexi

20%

P,K,H,B,Y

Business Restricted

25%

Z,D,C

Business Flexi

50%

J

55

O N B O A R D R J A D AY I N T H E L I F E

I graduated from the University of Jordan with a degree in English. During my first job as an English teacher, one of my relatives recommended I should apply for a job at RJ. I got the job, and have never looked back!

After joining the RJ family in 1997 and during my work at Queen Alia International Airport, I resumed my education as part of an RJ

MY ROLE FOR QAIA’S NEW TERMINAL

programme. I graduated with an executive MBA in Aviation Management from Maastricht School of Management in

I was the project manager for the airport’s new terminal, which opened in 2013, for which there were many important tasks to ensure its smooth opening.

the Netherlands. I love being able to apply my theoretical knowledge to my work. I have progressed professionally at RJ over the years, including positions as a supervisor and project manager of various operational departments.

I am now the Director of Handling Support and Out Stations Affairs.

My typical day includes meetings to discuss all related issues in operations, and responding to requests from colleagues based at the airports both here and

A day in the life Riyad Al Shaban explains his fulfilling job as RJ’s Director of Handling Support and Out Stations Affairs

around the world. I regularly meet with members of the airport’s services department

I hadn’t ever flown before

management team. Recently,

working for RJ. My first flight

one of my most exciting roles

was from Marka airport to

was as a team member for the

QAIA, just a 10-minute ride,

work with as my second family

new 787 Dreamliner launch,

to assist passengers being

– we have a great working

last year, where I worked on

diverted from Amman due to

relationship. Two of my current

the flight data and logistics

bad weather. My second was a

team members were my

necessary to operate the flight

holiday to Thailand – a slightly

mentors and teachers when I

in and out of QAIA.

longer distance! These days I

first joined RJ. I am very lucky

fly regularly for work.

to have such dedicated and

An important part of the job is to be a good communicator.

and Beirut, which I love for its cuisine and nature.

I consider the people I

I have a few favourite

qualified colleagues.

We have 60 out-station

destinations: New York, the

managers around the world,

sleepless city where I have

like to gain more knowledge

each one with their own way of

lots of family and friends; the

and experience to continue

thinking. You have to be able to

beautiful city of Paris; London,

advancing with RJ. As a

think globally and work for the

with its strange combination

Jordanian I am very proud to be

best interest of the company.

of history and modernity;

working for the national airline.

I always aim high, and would

56

A major part of that was to introduce a new set of standard operational procedures for many aspects including the baggage handling system, movable jet ways and check-in counters.

It was important to provide all staff members, including RJ crew members and head office staff, with an orientation and training session about the new terminal facilities. I also had to oversee the planning of new office and operation space, gradually moving flights to the new terminal, and finally closing the old terminal and opening the new one simultaneously.

I was very honoured to be a part of the welcoming line up that met His Majesty King Abdullah II during that opening.

ONBOARD RJ FLEET

DISCOVER RJ’S FLEET

Airbus 320

The newest arrival to the RJ family, there are now five Boeing 787s in the fleet

Tail Height 39’8”

Span 111’10”

Max Range 6480 km

Airbus 319 K H G

K H G

F E D

F E D 5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

25

20

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

C B A

C B A

Crown Class: 24 Seats, Rows 1-4

Economy Class: 246 Seats, Economy Class: Rows 5-37

Engines 2

Length 186’01”

Engines 2

Length 111’

Cargo Capacity 47.882 tons

Tail Height 55’6”

Cargo Capacity 6.786 tons

Tail Height 39’9”

Span 197’8”

Max Range 15200 km

Span 111’10”

Max Range 6945 km

Cruising Speed 1100 km/hour

Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour

Embraer 195

Airbus 330

Engines 2

Length 193’6”

Engines 2

Length 126’10”

Cargo Capacity 37.578 tons

Tail Height 58’2”

Cargo Capacity 3.7 tons

Tail Height 34’7”

Span 197’10”

Max Range 13420 km

Span 94’3”

Max Range 4260 km

Cruising Speed 1050 km/hour

Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour

Embraer 175 J H

27

30

29

28

25

26

24

23

G

20

22

21

A

B

C

16

19

15

17

18

12

13

11

14

10

8

7

9

A B C

4

5

3

1 B

2

H

J

G H J

Airbus 321 A

Freighters

Length 123’3”

Cargo Capacity 9.435 tons Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour

Boeing 787

o. in Fleet: XXX ngines: XXX argo Capacity: XXXX eed: XXX km/hr an: XX X" ngth: XXX' XX" il Height: XX' XX" ax. Range: XXXX NM

Engines 2

Engines 2

Length 146’0”

Engines 2

Length 103’11”

Cargo Capacity 12.837 tons

Tail Height 39’7”

Cargo Capacity 2.65 tons

Tail Height 32’3”

Span 111’10”

Max Range 5550 km

Span 85’4”

Max Range 4075 km

Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour

Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour

■ Closet ■ Lavatory ■ Galley

57 57 | ٦٨

be privileged. be one.

Introducing new oneworld benefits.

Royal Plus Platinum and Gold members both now enjoy additional baggage allowances on all oneworld airlines - and their baggage also receives priority handling from aircraft to carousel. Learn more at oneworld.com/benefits

member of

be connected Welcome to oneworld, an alliance of the world’s leading airlines committed to providing the highest level of service and convenience across almost 1,000 destinations worldwide. Whenever Royal Jordanian can’t take you to your final destination, we encourage you to travel with our oneworld partner airlines.

Enjoy an array of special privileges and rewards — which include earning and redeeming Royal Plus miles on all oneworld airlines and, for Royal Plus Platinum and Gold members, access to over 600 premium airport lounges.

oneworld alliance members

be recognised As a oneworld traveller, satisfaction awaits you around the globe. Your Royal Plus status is recognised across all member airlines. And you are entitled to a range of benefits, which are provided according to the following oneworld tier levels, no matter which cabin class you are flying in:

*Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the oneworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald level members. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LAN, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines, TAM Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. TAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.

Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits.

be global Round-the-world travel is easy, flexible and affordable with oneworld Explorer. Fares are based on the number of continents you visit or pass through, and class of travel. Select your route, plan your stopovers, even adjust your itinerary. oneworld Explorer means ultimate flexibility and value.

To book, or to discover more multi-continent and single-continent options, visit www.oneworld.com/flights

onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps

AmmAn, JordAn Queen AliA internAtionAl Airport

how do you transfer?

Queen Alia International Airport has one main terminal building. All arrivals are on Level 2 and all departures are on Level 3. If you have your boarding pass for your connecting flight, follow the Transfer sign through security to Level 3 and proceed to your departure gate. If you do not have a boarding pass for your flight, proceed to the transfer desk on Level 2 and then through security to Level 3 and proceed to your departure gate. how long does it take to transfer?

You should allow 10 to 15 minutes after clearing security to walk to your departure gate.

Connecting from international to domestic flights Once passport control is complete, exit the terminal and proceed to Level 3. If you have a boarding pass, head to the gate. If not, proceed to the check-in counter in Zone B. Connecting from domestic to International flights Exit the terminal and proceed to Level 3. If you have a boarding pass, head to passport control and proceed to the gate. If not, proceed to the check-in counters in Zone A.

oneworld carriers operating at Queen Alia International Airport Royal Jordanian British Airways Qatar Airways

hong kong hong kong internAtionAl Airport Airline lounges

Terminal 2 how do you transfer between terminals?

All arrivals are on Level 5. All departures are on Level 6. If you have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, proceed through security to Level 6 departures. If you do not have a boarding pass, proceed to the transfer desk for the carrier of your next flight. Once you have checked in, follow transfer signs through security to Level 6 departures.

Check-in Customs/ immigration Train

Escalators to gat 501-530 Transfer bus BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge

how long does it take to transfer between terminals?

You should allow at least 30 minutes after clearing security to walk to your departure gate. An alternative route is the passenger train shuttle on Level 1 that runs continuously between the east and west wings of the terminal.

Airline lounges

Terminal 2

CX Cathay Pacific Loung

Transfer desk

JL Japan Airlines Loung

Check-in

MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge

Customs/ immigration

oneworld carriers operating at hong kong Airport Royal Jordanian American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Japan Airlines

Transfer desk

Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways S7 SriLankan Airlines

Train

Airline lounges

Escalators to gates 501-530Terminal 2

Transfer desk

Transfer bus

Check-in

BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge

Customs/ immigration

CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

Train

JL Japan Airlines Lounge

Escalators to gates 501-530

MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge

Transfer bus BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge

6060 | ٦٥

CX Cathay Pacific Lounge JL Japan Airlines Lounge MH Malaysia Airlines

onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps

new york, UsA john f kennedy internAtionAl Airport how do you transfer between terminals?

The AirTrain operates frequently between all terminals at John F Kennedy (JFK) airport, as well as to stations that connect to the various New York railroad transportation systems. how long does it take to transfer between terminals?

Allow 60-90 minutes to transfer from one terminal to another. The approximate travel time for the AirTrain, including stops at all terminals, is eight minutes. how much time is required to transfer between JFk and Laguardia airports?

Allow 45-60 minutes for transportation between airports. Allow a minimum connection time of three hours if not otherwise specified by your airline. Proceed to the ground transportation information counter for more details.

Please note there is no baggage transfer process between JFK and New York LaGuardia (LGA) or Newark (EWR). You must collect your bags at your arrival airport and take them with you to your connecting flight.

oneworld carriers operating at new york John F kennedy Airport terminal 1 Japan Airlines terminal 7 British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Iberia, Qantas terminal 8 Royal Jordanian, Air Berlin, American Airlines, Finnair, LAN TAM, Qatar Airways

ChICAgo, UsA o’hAre internAtionAl Airport

ounges

r desk

in

ms/ ation

tors to gates 0

er bus

Airways, ge

acific Lounge

nes Lounge

Airlines

how do you transfer?

For international arrivals at Terminal 5, immigration and customs on the lower level.

Re-check your baggage at the re-check area beyond customs. to connect to American Airlines and Iberia Follow signs to Airport Transit System (ATS) to connect to Terminal 3. Clear security and proceed to your departure gate. to connect to British Airways, Japan Airlines or royal Jordanian from a UsA domestic arrival in terminal 3 Follow signs to ATS and proceed to Terminal 5. If you have a boarding pass, clear security and proceed to your departure gate. If you do not have a boarding pass, please check in at the airline’s counter. All bags will be checked through to your destination. how long does it take to transfer?

The ATS serves all terminals and operates every three to five minutes from 7am to 10pm, and every 20 minutes from 10pm to 7am. Maximum travel time is 10 minutes.

oneworld carriers operating at Chicago o’hare Airport terminal 5, Concourse m Arrivals and departures: Royal Jordanian, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Qatar Airways Arrivals Only: American Airlines, Air Berlin, Iberia, Japan Airlines terminal 3 Arrivals and departures: American Airlines Departures only: Air Berlin, Iberia, Japan Airlines

61 61 | ٦٤

onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps

mAdrId, spAIn ADOLFO SuÁREZ MADRID-BARAJAS AIRPORT

how do you transfer?

Most domestic and European – ‘Schengen’ – country flights will operate from the main terminal, Terminal 4, while long-haul services and some European flights will depart from the satellite terminal, Terminal 4S. Follow signs to the underground train to transfer between the terminals. how long does it take to transfer?

An underground high-speed train connects passengers between Terminal 4 and Terminal 4S, departing every three minutes and taking less than four minutes to complete the journey. oneworld carriers operating at madrid Barajas Airport terminal 4s Royal Jordanian, American Airlines, British Airways, Iberia, LAN TAM, Qatar Airways terminal 4 Air Berlin, Finnair, Iberia, TAM

London, Uk hEAThROW AIRPORT

Transfer d

Connecti

National Express b

Terminal 1 Terminal 5

Flight Connecti Center Road

Terminal 3

Walkway

Bus route

how do you transfer?

For same terminal departures, follow the signs for flight connections and proceed to departure gates.

For departures from other terminals, transfer by bus to the Flight Connection Centre and follow signs for departures. how long does it take to transfer between terminals?

Buses operate every six to eight minutes from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 and take approximately ten minutes. how much time is required to transfer between London heathrow and gatwick?

The National Express bus to Gatwick takes approximately 90 minutes. Buses operate every 15 minutes from 05:30-12:00 and every 30 minutes from 12:00-22:30

Terminal 4

Transfer desk Connection Bus

oneworld carriers operating at Terminal 1 London Terminal 5 heathrow Airport terminal 1 British Airways, TAM 3 Terminal terminal 3 Royal Jordanian, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Japan Airlines, Qantas, SriLankan Airlines terminal 4 Malaysia Airlines, Qatar Airways, terminal 5 British Airways, Iberia

6262 | ٦٣

National Express bus Flight Connection Center Road Walkway Bus route

Terminal 4

onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps

BAngkok, thAILAnd suvArnAbhumi Airport Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) Concourse C

Concourse E

Airline lounge

Transfer desk

International Terminal

how do you transfer?

Domestic flights leave from concourses A and B. International flights leave from concourses C, D, E, F and G. All arrivals are at Level 2 and all departures leave from Level 4 of the main terminal building.

Check-in Customs/ immigration

Concourse D

Arrivals Departures

Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) how long does it take to transfer?

To connect between the oneworld carriers (if Concourse C you are already checked through), should take approximately 20 minutes.

Road Concourse E

Airline lounges

Domestic International Terminal Terminal to connect between international concourses No need to go through immigration and customs Concourse A D Concourse formalities; check in 90 minutes before departure at the transit counter on Level 3.

Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) to connect between the international and domestic concourses It should take approximately 60-90 minutes to clear immigration and customs before proceeding to Domestic domestic check-in counters on Level 4. Passengers Terminal connecting from international to domestic flights must collect their checked baggage and clear Concourse A passport control before proceeding to the domestic check-in area.

CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

Transfer desk

JL Japan Airlines Lounge

Check-in Customs/ immigration

QF/BA Qantas, Briti Airways Lounge

Concourse G

Arrivals

MH Malaysia Airline Lounge

Departures

Concourse C

Concourse E

Road

Airline lounges Transfer desk

oneworld carriers operatingInternational at Bangkok suvarnabhumi Airport Terminal oneworld carriers: Concourse e, F or g Royal Jordanian, Concourse D British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Concourse G Qatar Airways, S7, SriLankan Airlines

CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

Check-in

JL Japan Airlines Lounge

Customs/ immigration

QF/BA Qantas, British Airways Lounge MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge

Arrivals Departures Road CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

Domestic

Transfer desk

Terminal KuALA LuMPuR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT kUALA LUmpUr, mALAysIA JL Japan Airlines Lounge

oneworld carriers:

Concourse A

Connection Bus

Concourse G

National Express bus Flight Connection Center Road Walkway Bus route

Satellite A

QF/BA Qantas, British Airways Lounge

Airline

MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge

Check

Custom immig

Main Terminal

transferring within and between terminals oneworld A complimentary train service operates between the carriers: main terminal building and the satellite building.

Parkin

Transit Road

Customers transferring from an international flight to a domestic flight must clear immigration and customs.

MH Malaysia Lounge

CX Cathay P Lounge

Customers transferring from a domestic flight to an international flight can collect their boarding passes from the transfer desk. All customers must pass through immigration clearance. how long does it take to transfer between the main terminal and the satellite building?

The complimentary Aerotrain train service departs every three to five minutes and the journey takes approximately two minutes. oneworld carriers operating at kuala Lumpur International Airport Royal Jordanian, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qatar Airways, SriLankan Airlines

Airline lounges Check-in

Satellite A

Customs/ immigration

Main Terminal

Parking

Satellite A Main Terminal

Transit System Road MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

Airline lounges Check-in Customs/ immigration Parking Transit System Road MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge

6363 | ٦٢

CX Cathay Pacific Lounge

ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS

n HELSINKI n OSLO

GLASGOW n

n ABERDEEN n EDINBURGH

MANCHESTER n

n ST PETERSBURG

n STOCKHOLM n GOTHENBURG

n COPENHAGEN

n NEWCASTLE

n HAMBURG

n KAZAN

n GDANSK

n HANNOVER n BERLIN n DÜSSELDORF n WARSAW COLOGNE n n FRANKFURT n NUREMBERG n OSLO BRUSSELS n n SAARBRÜCKEN KRAKÓW n KRAK KARLSRUHE n n STUTTGART PARIS n n MUNICH

n MOSCOW

AMSTERDAM n

n UFA

LONDON n

n KIEV

n ROSTOV

n VIENNA

n ZURICH

n BUCHAREST

GENEVA n

n ROME

n KRASNODAR

n ISTANBUL

n BARCELONA

n MADRID

n PALMA MALLORCA n ATHENS ALGIERS n

n TUNIS n LARNACA n TRIPOLI

n AMMAN

n MISRATA n BENGHAZI

n KHARTOUM

EUROPE & NORTH AFRICA Royal Jordanian destination

Codeshare destination

Local RJ Agents Bucharest

Cologne, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Gdansk, Gothenburg, Helsinki, Karlsruhe/Baden Baden, Kraków, Munich, Nuremberg, Saarbrücken, Stockholm, Stuttgart, Warsaw via Berlin Cologne, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Palma Mallorca via Munich Berlin, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Hannover, Nuremberg via Vienna Berlin via Frankfurt

Aberdeen, Copenhagen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Newcastle, Manchester, Oslo, Stockholm via London Heathrow

Kazan, Krasnodar, Rostov, St Petersburg, Ufa via Moscow

Amsterdam +31 23 555 5230

Munich +49 89 9759 1390

Accra +233 30 279 7485

Athens +30 210 9242 600

Nicosia +357 2 246 0044

Berlin +49 30 41014 222

Paris +33 1 42 65 99 91

Algiers +213 21 675621 +213 21 675622

Brussels +322 512 7070

Prague +420 261 2193 169

Dublin +353 1 663 3934

Rome +39 06 478 7055 +39 06 478 7057

Frankfurt +49 690 50941 +49 69 231 853 Geneva +41 22 817 4802 +41 22 817 4803 Kiev +380 93 231 9880 London +44 20 7878 6300 Moscow +7 495 933 7161

6464 | ٦١

Stockholm +46 8 555 691 42 Valletta +356 21 331 010 Vienna +43 1 513 3036 Zurich +41 43 816 4018 +41 43 816 4022

Benghazi +218 61 9093017 Casablanca +212 2 244 2525 Lagos +234 81 222 444 11 Nairobi +254 20 224 6619 Tripoli +218 21 444 1565 +218 21 444 2453 Tunis +216 71 351390

ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS

SEATTLE n

MINNEAPOLIS n OTTAWA n TORONTO n

SAN FRANCISCO n

LOS ANGELES n SANTA ANA n SAN DIEGO n

n MONTREAL

n DETROIT CHICAGO n SALT LAKE CITY n n BUFFALO INDIANAPOLIS n OMAHA n n BOSTON CLEVELAND n DENVER n n NEW YORK DAYTON n n PITTSBURGH KANSAS CITY n n COLUMBUS n PHILADELPHIA n WICHITA n BALTIMORE ST LOUIS n CINCINNATI n n LAS VEGAS nWASHINGTON LOUISVILLE n n RICHMOND n ALBUQUERQUE n TULSA n KNOXVILLE n RALEIGH NASHVILLE n OKLAHMOMA C n n PHOENIX CHARLOTTE n n MEMPHIS LITTLE ROCK n EL PASO n TUCSON n ATLANTA n DALLAS n AUSTIN n

n HOUSTON

n ORLANDO TAMPA n

n MIAMI

NORTH AMERICA Royal Jordanian destination

Codeshare destination

Local RJ Agents Albuquerque, Atlanta, Austin, Baltimore, Boston, Buffalo, Charlotte, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus, Dallas, Dayton, Denver, El Paso, Houston, Indianapolis, Kansas City, Knoxville, Las Vegas, Little Rock, Los Angeles, Louisville, Memphis, Miami, Minneapolis, Nashville, New Orleans, New York - LaGuardia, Omaha, Orlando, Ottawa, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Pittsburgh, Raleigh, Richmond, St Louis, Salt Lake City, San Diego, San Francisco, Santa Ana, Seattle, Tampa, Toronto, Tucson, Tulsa, Washington, Wichita, via Chicago

Austin, Baltimore, Boston, Cleveland, Columbus, Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Montreal, Pittsburgh, Raleigh, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Tampa, Toronto, Washington (Dca), via New York

Phoenix via New York (JFK), Chicago (ORD) or Detroit (DTW)

Chicago +1 847 803 3700 Detroit +1 313 271 6663 Montreal +1 514 842 3300 New York +1 212 949 0050 +1 212 949 0060

Dallas via Detroit Boston, Dallas, Los Angeles via London Boston, Dallas, Miami via Paris Dallas, Miami via Madrid Flights to Detroit operate via Montreal in the wintertime

6565 | ٦٠

ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS

ALEPPO n

MOSUL n

n ERBIL n SULAYMANIYAH

BEIRUT n DAMASCUS n

n BAGHDAD TEL AVIV n

n AMMAN n NAJAF

CAIRO n BASRA n

AQABA n

n KUWAIT

DAMMAM n

n BAHRAIN n DOHA

MADINAH n

DUBAI n

RIYADH n ABU DHABI n MUSCAT n

JEDDAH n

KHARTOUM n

SANA'A n

ADEN n

MIDDLE EAST Royal Jordanian destination

Codeshare destination

Local RJ Agents Bahrain

Abu Dhabi +971 2 627 5084 Aden +967 2 244546

Muscat

Beirut

Aleppo +963 21 228 6207 +963 21 228 6208 Amman +962 6 510 0000 Aqaba +962 3 201 2403 Baghdad +964 79 0143 1478 +964 78 0928 3703 Bahrain +973 1 735 3333 Basra +964 78 0198 2285 Beirut +961 1 493321 +961 1 493480/1

6666 | ٥٩

Cairo +202 3305 2940 +202 3303 5537 +202 3344 3114 Damascus +963 11 543 5427 Dhahran +966 3 864 1231 Doha +974 435 1422 Dubai +971 4 316 6666 Erbil +964 75 0405 2299 Gaza +972 8 282 5403/13 / +970 8 282 5403/13 Jeddah +966 12 6613999 +966 12 6674243

Khartoum +249 1 8379 2846 +249 1 776 2743 / 4

Sharjah +971 6 568 4411 Sharm El-Sheikh

Madinah +966 14 8189645 +966 14 8189646 +966 14 8189647 Mosul +964 77 0652 3000 Muscat +968 2479 6680 +968 2470 5443 Ramallah +970 2 240 1919 Riyadh +966 11 218 0850/3/4/5/6 Sana’a +967 1 446063/6

+20 69 3 600 936 +20 69 3 600 190 Sulaymaniyah +964 5 3319 4236 Tel-Aviv-Yafo +972 74 750 6666 West Bank +972 2 240 5060

ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS

HONG KONG n

n BANGKOK

n KUALA LUMPUR

ASIA Royal Jordanian destination

Codeshare destination

Local RJ Agents Kuala Lumpur

Bangkok +66 2 638 2960

via Bangkok

Colombo +941 1 230 1629 Ho Chi Minh +84 8 39302939 Hong Kong +852 2804 1203 Jakarta +62 21 451 3402 Kuala Lumpur +76 03 2148 7500 +76 03 2412 698 Malé +960 3327 631 +960 3327 632 Manila +632 52 2 4869 +632 52 2 2095 Mumbai +91 22 2204 0676

67 67 | ٥٨

Seoul +82 2 317 8834 +82 2 317 8780 Shanghai +86 21 5306 6060 Singapore +65 6338 8988 Sydney +61 1300 855 057 Taipei +886 2 2506 1388 Tokyo +813 5251 8673

o n b o a r d r j t r av e l t i p s

HealtH tips for your fligHt

Our travel experts give their top tips to make your flight as comfortable as possible

3

Keep the kids happy!

RJ’s inflight entertainment

will keep little ones occupied, but bring their favourite soft toy, books or perhaps an iPad with games. Kids can find take off and landing uncomfortable on their ears, due to the change some sweets for them to enjoy

Stand up, stretch and walk

and help relieve the pressure.

around the cabin as much as possible. While sitting you can do exercises such as lifting your

4

stay hydrated The cabin can be

knees towards your chest, and

dehydrating due to the air

rolling your ankles. This will help

pressure and altitude. Keep

to avoid developing DVT (deep

drinking fluids; water is best

vein thrombosis) in your legs.

but avoid caffeine and alcohol

2

that can dehydrate you further.

Wear loose clothing You’ll find it far more

comfortable on your flight to wear light-fitting clothes made

5

avoid jet lag A long haul flight across

several time zones can lead

from natural fabrics, rather

to jet lag. Try to get your mind

than anything too confining, for

adjusted to your destination’s

example tight jeans. Also carry

time by changing your watch to

light layers instead of anything

the appropriate time as soon as

too bulky.

you get on board your flight.

68 | ٥٧

Photo courtesy of Royal Jordanian

1

in cabin pressure, so bring Keep moving!

O N B O A R D R J I N F L I G H T E N T E R TA I N M E N T

SHOWING ONBOARD For fortysomething Josh Srebnick (the versatile Ben Stiller) and Cornelia (British-born Naomi Watts), life is comfortable, childless and in a rut. Living in New York’s arty Brooklyn, Josh is an uptight documentary filmmaker, past his peak and a now lecturer at university; Cornelia is the daughter of a successful film producer.

Life continues in its cosy way, but when they meet the free-spirited twentysomethings Jamie (Adam Driver), a wannabe filmmaker, and Darby (Amanda Seyfried), their lives are turned upside down.

The Srebnicks soon ditch their 40s baby-centred pals and are sucked into their new friends’ left-field lives of spontaneity. Josh apes Jamie’s love of wearing a fedora and whizzing on a skateboard; Cornelia goes to cool hip-hop dance classes and trance sessions.

When Jamie’s shameless attempts to connect with Cornelia’s father (Charles Grodin) come to light, Josh suspects that the entire friendship is a sham, which leads to a messy feud.

While We’re Young

Writer and director Noah Baumbach’s acerbic comedy of manners is an observant portrayal of the generation gap and the desire for youth. In While We’re Young, he also carries the mantle of Woody Allen’s ability to capture middle-class American angst.

THE WONDERS OF ANIMALS: PENGUINS “The Emperor is the largest species of penguins, weighing in at 38kg, a third of which is blubber,” explains presenter Chris Packham. It’s probably the main reason why these Arctic-dwelling creatures look like comical, waddling toys, with stubby legs and tiny wings. Yet this bulk of blubber requires hard work; they need to dive deep and wide to hunt for food, and they can hold their breath for up to 20 minutes. This is the first episode in the BBC wildlife series which uses groundbreaking science, where British naturalist Packham analyses how the penguin’s body shape affects its life, including how it makes a stunning athletic dive to return on to dry land.

6969 | ٥٦

o n b o a r d r j p a s s e n g e r i n f o r m at i o n

your baggage allowance rJ’s new baggage allowance policy, introduced in november 2014, is based on the number and weight of bags checked in, rather than just the weight.

Below is a handy chart to show what you can check in and take on board. next time you fly out of amman, why not make the most of rJ’s City Terminal at 7th Circle, where you can pre-check your luggage and get your boarding pass up to 24 hours before your departure.

checked Baggage allowance north america & egypt*

30kg 7kg

30kg 7kg

all other rJ destinations

30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg Class: 7kg 30kg 7kg Crown

32kg

32kg

30kg + 7kg 23kg

23kg

Crown Class:

32kg + 32kg 32kg 32kg EConomy Class: 23kg 23kg 23kg + 23kg

30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg

+

30kg 7kg

32kg 32kg 23kg 23kg

EConomy Class:

make sure the size of each bag is within the permitted dimensions: the sum of the length, width and height of each piece must be less than 158cm.

Infants can check in one item of baggage up to 23kg.

32kg 30kg 7kg

32kg 30kg 7kg

23kg

23kg 32kg

Infants can check in one piece of 32kg baggage up to a 10kg.

23kg *amman/Cairo and Cairo/amman routes only

+ +

32kg 32kg 23kg 23kg

23kg

carrY-on Baggage allowance all rJ destinations Crown Class:

30kg 7kg 30+ kg 7kg

EConomy Class:

30kg 7kg

32kg

Each briefcase or handbag should be a maximum size of 23 x 36 x 56cm

23kg

For a more overview23 on rJ’s 23comprehensive kg kg luggage policy, please visit rj.com or call +962 6 510 0000.

32kg

32kg

If your bag is larger or heavier than this, it will have to be taken into the hold, and extra charges will apply.

70 70 | ٥٥

30kg 7kg

30kg 7kg 30+ kg 7kg

32kg

32kg

32kg

23kg

23kg

23kg







Tel. + 962 6 568 00 55 Ext. 159 Mob.+ 962 79 9 323 719 sales@jiec.com www.jiec.com 8‫ ا ردن ﻣﺠﻤﻊ ﺑﻨﻚ ا ﺳﻜﺎن ط‬- ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

‫‪¿hó∏N øHEG õcôe‬‬ ‫÷‪Qõ«∏dG h π«ªéàdG áMGô‬‬

‫‪QƒàcódG‬‬

‫‪»µHƒ°ûdG óªMCG ôªY‬‬ ‫رﺋﻴﺲ اﻻﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻴﺔ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻴﺔ ﻟﺠﺮاﺣﺔ اﻟﺘﺠﻤﻴﻞ واﻟﺠﻠﺪﻳﺔ‬

‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت ﺷﻔﻂ اﻟﺪﻫﻮن و ﺷﺪ اﻟﺒﻄﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت ﺷﺪ اﻟﻮﺟﻪ و اﻟﺠﻔﻮن‬ ‫ﺗﺠﻤﻴﻞ ا ﻧﻒ‬ ‫ﺗﺮﻣﻴﻢ اﻟﺘﺸﻮﻫﺎت اﻟﺨﻠﻘﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻼج و ﺗﺮﻣﻴﻢ اﻟﺤﺮوق‬ ‫ﺣﻘﻦ اﻟﺒﻮﺗﻮﻛﺲ و ﻣﻮاد اﻟﺘﻌﺒﺌﺔ‬

‫‪Endopeel Injection‬‬

‫ ﻋﻼج اﻟﺼﻠﻊ و ﺗﺴﺎﻗﻂ اﻟﺸﻌﺮ‬‫‪ -‬ﻋﻼج اﻟﺒﻬﺎق ﺑﺈﺳﺘﺨﺪام اﻟﺨﻼﻳﺎ اﻟﺠﺬﻋﻴﺔ‬

‫ﺗ‬

‫ﻜﻨ‬

‫ﻗﻞ‬ ‫ﻮﻟ‬ ‫ﻔﺔ أ‬ ‫ﻮ‬ ‫ﺟ‬ ‫‪....‬ﺗﻜﻠ‬ ‫ﻴﺎ أﺣﺪث ‪ ....‬ﻧﺘﻴﺠﺔ أﻓﻀﻞ‬

‫‪V-MAX HIFU‬‬

‫‪High Intensity Focused Ultra Sound‬‬

‫ﺍﳉﻬﺎﺯ‬ ‫ﺍﻻﺣﺪﺙ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﺟﺮﺍﺣﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺘﺠﻤﻴﻞ‬

‫ اﺑﺮاﻫﻴﻢ ﺣﺠﺎزي اﻟﻐﺎﻣﺪي‬.‫د‬ Ωɶ©dG áMGôL …QÉ°ûà°SG , π°UÉØŸG πjóÑJh Ò¶æàd ∫hG …QÉ°ûà°SG FRCS orth CCST (UK) á«fÉ£jÈdG IQÉ°ûà°S’G IOÉ¡°T 347584 ÊÉ£jÈdG »Ñ£dG ¢ù∏éŸG ºbQ , É«fÉ£jôH /Ωɶ©dG áMGôL …QÉ°ûà°SG www.gmc-uk.org äGQÉe’G ádhO/»HO áeƒµM , ΩɶY áMGôL …QÉ°ûà°SG ¿ÉªY áæ£∏°S /ΩɶY áMGôL …QÉ°ûà°SG

‫ اﻟﺮﻳﺎض ودﺑﻲ‬،‫ ﻣﺴﻘﻂ‬،‫ ﻋﻤﺎن‬،‫ﻋﻴﺎدات إﺳﺘﺸﺎرة وﻣﺘﺎﺑﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻟﻨﺪن‬ +962795737415 Dr Ibraheem Hijazi Dr Ibraheem Hijazi 00962795737415

+96265690520

+ 9714 389000 ‫ ﺍﳌﺴﺘﺸﻔﻰ ﺍﻟﺴﻌﻮﺩﻱ ﺍﻻﳌﺎﻧﻲ‬،‫ﻟﻠﻤﻮﺍﻋﻴﺪ ﻓﻲ ﺩﺑﻲ‬

+96824489696 ‫ ﺍﳋﻮﻳﺮ‬، ‫ﻣﺠﻤﻊ ﺍﺑﻦ ﺍﻟﺰﻫﺮ‬، ‫ﻣﺴﻘﻂ‬

Info@ibraheemhijazi.com www.ibraheemhijazi.com

‫اﺟﻌﻞ ﻋﻼج ﻋﻴﻮﻧﻚ ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ ﻓﺮﻳﺪة ﻳﻤﻴﺰﻫﺎ‪.‬اﻟﺼﺪق ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻌﺎﻣﻞ ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺪﻗﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻔﺤﺺ واﻟﻤﻮاﻋﻴﺪ ‪.‬اﻟﺤﺪاﺛﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻻﺟﺮاءات واﻟﻔﺤﻮﺻﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ أﻳﺪي أﻣﻬﺮ اﺧﺘﺼﺎﺻﻴﻲ ﻃﺐ وﺟﺮاﺣﺔ اﻟﻌﻴﻮن‪.‬‬

‫ﺍﻟﻬﺎﺗﻒ‪+962 78 5656333 - +962 6 5656333 :‬‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺸﻤﻴﺴﺎﻧﻲ‪ ،‬ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻳﻒ ﻋﺒﺪﺍﳊﻤﻴﺪ ﺷﺮﻑ )ﺍﻟﻨﻘﺎﺑﺎﺕ(‪ ،‬ﻣﺒﻨﻰ ‪ ،95‬ﻋﻤﺎﻥ ﺍﻷﺭﺩﻥ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺒﺮﻳﺪ ﺍﻻﻟﻜﺘﺮﻭﻧﻲ‪info@theicarecenter.com :‬‬ ‫‪www.theicarecenter.com‬‬ ‫‪Facebook: /theicarecenter‬‬

‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ آي ﻛﻴﺮ ﻟﻠﻌﻴﻮن‬ ‫‪The i Care Center‬‬

‫اﻻﺧﺘﻴﺎر ا وﺿﺢ‬

Tel.: