Royal JoRdanian aiRlines Magazine July/august 2015
Middle East 10 seaside getaways for the holidays
Learn to be an elephant handler in Thailand Cooling down in Jordan How Lanvin inspired Parisian style
Amman Zara Center Tel. +962 6 4614647
welcome
D
ear guests, I would like to welcome you on board our plane on behalf of my colleagues, including the crew who will be pleased to know that you leave this aircraft happy and satisfied with our services. Your satisfaction is our main concern, and we do our utmost to live up to your expectations. All we seek is to offer the best services to our passengers, an end towards which we spare no effort, focussing on quality and seamless services. Gaining your trust and maintaining it is our ultimate goal. Royal Jordanian, which is proud of being the national carrier of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is also involved in many national economic, social and human endeavours. The company’s social responsibility is clearly mirrored in the mission and values that govern Royal Jordanian’s performance of its tasks and operations. The airline feels all the more proud to have participated over the last few months to the success of several events and conferences held in Jordan. Foremost among these events was the 69th celebration of independence of the country; as part of the festivities marking this great day, a Royal Jordanian jet accompanied the Royal Jordanian Falcons aircraft which performed a spectacular air show in the Amman skies. It was a demonstration of pride in this national occasion so special to Jordanians, and came in addition to other celebrations that took place among the staff and passengers on board our aircraft on that day. We are also proud to have been the sponsors and official carrier for participants in the World Economic Forum, which was held on the shores of the Dead Sea under Royal patronage. Almost 1,000 international political and economic figures and leaders from all business sectors participated in this world-class event. It was RJ’s ninth sponsorship of this forum since it was first convened in Jordan in 1995. Furthermore, supporting goodwill efforts exerted by different national charities, RJ contributed to the success of Allgäu-Orient
Rallye, which started in Germany and ended in Jordan passing through ten European countries. The proceeds went to benefit hearing impaired Jordanian children on whom cochlear implants will be performed. At a local level, RJ continued to be the exclusive official carrier and sponsor of the Jordan Football Association. This was achieved through a partnership agreement signed between RJ and the association in the presence of HRH Prince Ali bin Al Hussein; it took place on the sidelines of the Soccerex Asian Forum that was held at the Dead Sea, an important two-day event also sponsored by RJ. This sponsorship is part of RJ’s efforts to encourage tourism to Jordan, particularly conference tourism. The airline also endeavours to boost medical tourism; to that end, it signed a memorandum of understanding with the Jordan Hospitals Association. We at Royal Jordanian are proud of our social contributions, along with being proud and striving to offer our passengers the best services, and the highest levels of safety and luxury. And that is the reason why we are proud to assert the following line, which says it all: “Royal Jordanian, more than just an airline.”
Captain Haitham Misto President & CEO 9
take off
Photos: Zeina Barhoum courtesy of Zeina Barhoum; Nurai © Zaya Nurai Island; Jean Lanvin © Patrimoine Lanvin; elephant © The Four Seasons
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15 What’s On Some of the best events during July and August in RJ destinations, from the Tour de France cycle race to the Rolling Stones’ concert in Detroit 16 Jordan products The rising success of Amman’s clothing design company Jobedu, since starting out on a local market stall 18 Jordan people Royal Wings chats to Jordanian opera singer Zeina Barhoum about how she bridges Arabic and Western musical cultures
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21 Jerash Festival History and highlights of the popular music and cultural event at the Roman site of Jerash, now in its 30th year
29 A Middle East bookshelf Casting our eye over some of the most interesting reads relating to the region, including travelogues, novels and cookery books
23 RJ breaks: Cyprus Highlighting the best tours on this Mediterranean island, with Roman amphitheatres, frescoed monasteries and beaches with loggerhead turtles
32 Summer in Jordan Our Amman expert’s favourite ways to cool down in the Kingdom, with shaded galleries and forest treks 36 10 seaside gems in the Middle East Unusual beach getaways, from luxury resorts in Abu Dhabi to rare coral and bird life on remote islands in Saudi Arabia
25 Stopover: London An insider’s guide to two days in the UK’s capital, taking in a palace, the River Thames and a night out in Theatreland
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42 Lanvin’s designs on Paris The retrospective exhibition of couturier Jeanne Lanvin, and how she set the standard for the city’s fashion scene 46 Talking to elephants A trip to Thailand to the Four Seasons’ luxury lodge in Chiang Rai, where mahouts teach you how to ride and communicate with elephants 50 Onboard RJ A detailed section with travel tips, destination maps, fleet guide, RJ’s recent activities and more
Editor Emma Levine emma.levine@spafax.com Art Director Robin Castle Sub Editor Alistair Lawrence Production Manager Henrietta Hurll On the cover: enjoy unique coastal destinations in the Middle East
Editor in Chief Richard Rawlinson richard.rawlinson@spafax.com Account Manager Ed Oppe
Contributors
Royal Jordanian Director in Charge Muna Eses Royal Jordanian Editorial Assistance Yousef Abedrabbo, Dima Sweis Royal Wings is published bi-monthly by Spafax on behalf of Royal Jordanian Airlines Printed in Jordan by National Press Arabisation services by Projecutive Inc, Amman info@projecutive.com
Farah Shanti Farah’s love of travel started early in her life – and not just for international travel. Born in Amman, she’s happy to call Jordan home, a country that offers spectacular tourist destinations. She gives her perfect itinerary for staying cool this summer.
Adrian Mourby Adrian is one of the few UK-based writers to have gained a mahout license entitling him to ride an elephant bareback in Thailand. He has also published four novels and two guidebooks, and produced a number of award-winning dramas for the BBC.
© 2015 Spafax Publishing, The Pumphouse, 13-16 Jacobs Well Mews, London, W1U 3DY, UK Tel: +44 20 7906 2001 spafax.com The opinions expressed in this magazine are the writers’ and are not necessarily endorsed by Royal Jordanian Airlines Your comments are welcomed to: Director In Charge, Royal Jordanian Airlines, PO Box 302, Amman, 11118, Jordan royalwingsmag@rj.com rj.com
Advertising enquiries Middle East Iyad Bata Front Row Publishing & Media Amman Tel: +962 6 582 0058 Fax: +962 6 585 5892 Mobile: +962 79 714 5363 royalwings@frontrow.jo
Georgina Wilson-Powell While living in the UAE for six years, Georgina wrote guidebooks on the region for Time Out, before launching Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East magazine. Now freelancing from London, her favourite destinations include Beirut and Petra.
Paula Hardy Paula has been covering France and Italy for Lonely Planet since 1999 and has authored over 30 guidebooks. When she’s not scribbling notes in museums and sampling haute cuisine on the Left Bank, she contributes to a variety of travel publications.
Worldwide Nick Hopkins Spafax London: Tel: +44 20 7906 1983 Mobile: + 44 79 17 08893 Dubai: Tel: +971 44 234 783 Mobile: + 971 56 795 7390 nick.hopkins@spafax.com
Cover photo © The Four Seasons This page © M S Al Muhammady/Shutterstock
what’s on
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Photos: Tour de France © Radu Razvan/Shutterstock; Forest © Kacper Kowalski/World Press Photo Exhibition; Statue of Liberty © Gary718/Shutterstock; Rolling Stones courtesy of Rolling Stones
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What’s on Events in July and August Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival Turkey / 1-5 July
Independence Day USA / 4 July
The Rolling Stones USA / 8 July
The anniversary of the
The rock legends make their
World Press Photo Exhibition Canada / 26 Aug-26 Sep
In Edirne, 220km northeast of
America’s Declaration of
first return to Detroit for ten
This touring exhibition of
Istanbul, hundreds of Turkish
Independence, signed in 1776,
years, with Mick, Charlie, Keith
prize-winning photographs
oil-covered, leather-clad
is celebrated across the USA
and Ronnie strutting their stuff
comes to Montreal’s Old Port
pehlivans (wrestlers) gather
with stars-and-stripes flags,
at Comerica Park [4].
[2]. It’s a powerful account of
for contests in the traditional
parties and parades [3]. In New
major events in 2014, captured
Ottoman sport of oil wrestling,
York, fireworks are launched
olympiaentertainment.com
held here since 1361.
from Brooklyn Bridge.
photojournalists.
goturkeytourism.com
nycgo.com
Byblos International Festival Lebanon / 13 July-18 Aug
Ramadan Night Market UAE / 2-11 July
Tour de France France / 4-26 July
The ancient Phoenician city of Byblos, 38km north of Beirut,
Notting Hill Carnival UK / 30-31 Aug
The Dubai World Trade Centre
The world’s most famous and
hosts this annual event in a
In West London, Europe’s
hosts this annual event, from
arduous bike race spins and
spectacular waterfront setting.
biggest street festival is a
8pm to 2am each evening,
climbs its way through France
Acts include American singer
swathe of lively steel bands,
with a huge food court, Eid gift
[1], ending in a glorious finale on
John Legend, and guitarists
sequinned-costumed dancers
ideas and plenty of kids events.
the Champs Elysees in Paris.
Rodrigo Y Gabriela from Spain.
and spicy Caribbean food.
ramadannightmarket.com
letour.com
byblosfestival.org
visitlondon.com.com
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by some of the world’s finest worldpressphoto.org
jordan products I started working at Jobedu
selects the winning designs
in 2011 – I was a huge fan of the
which will then be produced.
brand. After leaving Jordan to
Amman, in Lweibdeh in an
year to work as their marketing
old neighbourhood which is a
and community officer.
cultural and artistic hub, and
Jobedu started in 2007 with six designs and two guys, in the Friday street market Souq Jara,
centres and malls. We design, produce and sell a vast range of products,
Al Masri and Michael ‘Meesh’
including long and short-
Makdah were high school best
sleeved T-shirts and zip-up
friends, who reunited after
hoodies for men, women and
college and decided to start
kids – even onesies. The main
an Arab brand inspired by our
appeal is the unique designs,
roots, the Bedouins. The name
capturing a blend of Jordanian
Jobedu simply means ‘the
humour and politics. Right
Bedouins have come’.
now humour is definitely more
T-shirts, stored in Tamer’s
important. Our inspiration is the US
parent’s basement, sold
design company Threadless,
immediately at the market
the e-commerce printing
to huge crowds who found
company Design By Humans,
the T-shirts hilarious. Once
and the Lebanese urbanwear
people got to know the brand,
brand Ashekman run by graffiti
we created more and started
artists and rap musicians
delivering them to people’s
Mohamed and Omar Kabbani.
houses. In order to fund the
Shiam Kheetan talks about the clothing design company Jobedu, from its humble roots on an Amman market stall to an iconic brand
in Abdoun near commercial
near Rainbow Street. Tamer
The first batch of Jobedu
Making fashion fun
Jobedu has two stores in
travel, I rejoined the team last
We have many customers
business further, we ran a
and fans around the world – in
crowdfunding campaign on the
fact our first online order was
website eureeca.com, where
from Australia – and we’d love
we received $120,000 in just
to expand internationally. In
four days! What started out as
addition to our online store,
a small project has grown into
shipping worldwide, we’re
a successful operation over the
selling in the UAE and Saudi
past eight years.
Arabia through distribution
Tamer has always been
outlets including Virgin
passionate about art, design
Megastores. Egypt is next, then
and painting, and Meesh had
we’re heading to Kuwait, Qatar,
a passion for marketing. At
Morocco, and hopefully yet
the beginning neither had a
more countries.
clue about business, IT or
The sky is Jobedu’s limit!
production. What drove Jobedu dream forward. Designers are our creative community, and one of our goals is to give them a platform to get creative. We’re always on the hunt for fresh and exciting people and committed to supporting everyone. When we come up with a new theme, we announce it on our social media platforms, then open it for submission. Our creative team
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Designers are our creative community, and one of our goals is to give them a platform
All photos courtesy of Jobedu
was the desire to take the
clockwise from top left: jobedu camel crossing; Yo; elmo; mrabbaYeh; sharqiYYeh; urdoni waY
(below) jobedo customers wearing their favourite designs
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Zeina Barhoum The Jordanian opera singer talks to Royal Wings about bridging Arabic and Western music culture, and her voice on RJ’s Dreamliner advert
Tell us about the early days‌
My parents were living
Born and brought up in Amman,
in the UAE at the time as my
I first became interested in
father was a professor at
music when I was eight years
the University of Sharjah.
old, but I hid my interest at first
I applied for a degree in
from my parents, who are both
Visual Communication at the
sociologists. Little did I know at
American University of Sharjah.
that stage how much support
and I loved every minute of
they would give me! When I
it. Music continued to be a
was 12, I performed for the first
passion which provided me with
time at the school talent show.
motivation and innovation.
Later, while in the school choir,
I had trained at a young
my music teacher discovered
age with two Amman-based
that I have a vocal range for a
teachers, Lucas Czerny and
career in opera, so my parents
Mariana Halaseh. My passion
enrolled me in music classes
has always been Italian opera,
and specialist training. I had so
so I continued my training
much support from them, and
with Italian teachers Alberta
still do. Without them I wouldn’t
Valentini and Walter Alberti in
be the person I am today.
Rome, and Tina Ruta in London.
I also took acting and
I worked on the importance of
dancing classes at school, but
understanding the meaning
felt I was missing out on visual
behind the composition and
arts, especially painting.
the meaning of the words.
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jordan people Who are your favourite
cultures and communicate
singers?
through a common universal
Maria Callas, Luciano Pavarotti,
language. We can assimilate
Roberto Alagna, Kiri te Kanawa,
and remember we are all
Majida Al Roumi Baradhy,
human despite our different
Asmahan, Estrella Morente,
backgrounds and cultures.
Leila Mourad, Ella Fitzgerald,
Music is the only way to unite
Frank Sinatra, Whitney
the world’s vision for a better
Houston... and many more!
and harmonious place.
Is there much opera
What is your favourite aria?
appreciation in Jordan?
If I have to pick one it would
Yes, there is although it isn’t
be Oh mio babbino caro from
that big – however it is growing
the opera Gianni Schicchi by
and people are continuously
Puccini. It’s a beautiful piece
thirsty for more. Support for
of music full of emotion and
opera and classical music
passion that greatly resonates
events is important for it to
with me.
grow bigger and prosper. Tell us about other Jordanian Are there notable Arabic
musicians you’ve worked
composers who have
with…
written opera?
The National Music
There have been many great
Conservatory Orchestra and
composers, plus present-day
its conductor for my album
musicians such as Zaid Jabri
launch in Jordan; the talented
and Hiba Al Kawas, who have
ballerina and choreographer
worked hard to build an Arabic
Rania Qamhawi, and dancers,
operatic repertoire.
Natalie Salsa and Bijan Qutob.
Clockwise from above: Zeina Barhoum with her sociologist parents; new album Alcantara; having makeup applied before a recent photo shoot
I recently collaborated with the Tell us about your new
group Mirage, on a rock/Arabic
album, Alcantara…
opera project. Tareq Al Nasser
It features a range of classical
is a talented musician I had the
language where I thought fit
projects including La Traviata.
opera arias, some translated
pleasure of working with on
best are the two main elements
Alcantara has had great impact
by me into Arabic, from operas
RJ’s Dreamliner ad.
for creating the ‘bridge’.
and feedback, and there will be
Schicchi and La Traviata, plus
Classic opera and Arabic
What’s your connection with
soon. I am going to be part of
Andalusia Muashahat from
music contrast hugely –
Royal Jordanian?
a special production in Jordan
the year 1100. There are also
how do you combine them?
RJ contributed hugely to my
in August and really looking
Western classics arranged
I think the two musical worlds
album launch in Jordan. I
forward to it.
by the conductor of the
began to cross since the year
was recently the voice of RJ
Amman Symphony Orchestra,
1100 in Al Andalus and have
in their Dreamliner TV ad,
What’s your advice to
Mohamed Sidiq, Stathis
continued to cross throughout
with their slogan, ‘This is your
anyone wanting to become
Oulkeroglou, Lorenzo Baciu
my life. So working on this
world, a world of stories’. It
a professional musician?
and me.
project was the natural thing
was recorded in four different
Find your pillar of support.
for me. Introducing new
languages: Arabic, English,
Recognise the importance
originally an Arabic word (al
arrangements with new sounds,
French and German. Sharing
of your talent and know that
qantara), meaning ‘bridge’, as I
Arabic instruments and the
the same vision as RJ in terms
you have to share it with the
believe my music should bridge
introduction of the Arabic
of bridging cultures makes
world as it isn’t only for you to
every experience so rewarding.
keep. It’s meant to be shared,
including Rinaldo, Gianni
I chose the name Alcantara,
another album coming out very
improved, worked on, loved,
‘Sharing RJ’s vision in terms of bridging cultures makes every experience so rewarding’ 19
What are you currently
and always in aspiration
working on?
for making a difference. Be
I am currently touring with my
genuine, modest and true to
album – Italy, Germany and the
yourself and your art and you
UK are next – and working on
will surely succeed.
jerash festival The Graeco-Roman city
stalls, exhibitions, children’s
of Jerash is transformed
entertainment and food
once again when the Jerash
outlets. It is a hugely popular
Festival for Culture and Arts
event, drawing visitors from
brings Arabic and international
the Arab world and beyond.
singers and performers to the stage (23 July-1 August). Located 48km north of
On 23 July the dazzling opening ceremony in the South Theatre begins the festival with
Amman in a peaceful valley,
a flourish, including Bedouin
the well-preserved Roman site
songs from Omar Al Abdallat
is one of the highlights of any
and classic Arabic songs from
visit to Jordan. This former
Linda Hijazi, both from Jordan.
flourishing trading town has a
Later in the week, visitors can
rich history, dating back more
enjoy Lebanese pop icons
than 6,500 years. Today its
Wael Kfoury (top right), Nancy
paved colonnaded streets and
Ajram (bottom left), Yara and
hilltop temples reflect a fusion
Ramy Ayach. Beyond the Arab
of architectural styles: Graeco-
world, Curro Pinana brings
Roman and the Arab Orient.
his heart-rending Spanish
The Jerash Festival brings
flamenco songs to the stage,
the past into the present.
and Malouma Mint Meidah
Inaugurated in 1981 by Queen
(top left) melds Moorish music
Noor Al-Hussein, the festival
from the Sahara with Western
has been a regular summer
sounds. The tempo increases
fixture: this year marks its
when Al Jeel Al Jadeed Dance
30th anniversary.
Ensemble (bottom right)
Each evening the brilliantly
from Amman perform dance
floodlit stages show off local
originating from the Circassian
and international music,
ethnic group.
dance, opera, poetry and
After Jerash, the festival
performance. The surrounding
continues in Amman (2-8
ancient streets and plazas
August), with another varied
bustle with attractions
programme of performances.
including a craft bazaar, book
jerashfestival.jo
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Jerash Festival: A Jordan event like no other
rj breaks In the northeastern corner of the
the only city in the world that is divided into
Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus boasts
two countries: you can cross the UN-controlled
architecture that tells of its unique history.
border, the ‘Green Line’, dividing north Cyprus
Visitors can savour the splendour of Venetian
(Turkish controlled) from the south (controlled
castles, Islamic minarets, Medieval churches
by Greece). From here, explore the mountain-
and ancient Greek tombs. Add to those the
backed Kyrenia harbour [3] and dine on fresh
natural beauty of its mountain ranges and soft
fish, then head 5km into the hills to Bellapais
sandy beaches, and it’s no wonder that the
Monastery with a 13th-century church and
island is such a hot spot for holidaymakers.
Roman sarcophagi. Or choose a day trip to the
Most of its wonders are easily visited with
northeastern tip of the island, where you can
coastal cities of Paphos, in the west, or
enter the royal tombs at Salamis, dating back
Limassol in the south. You can get to know
to the 7th and 8th centuries BC .
Paphos on a hop-on, hop-off bus tour with
Mountain range, an immense region of plane,
Museum and the Frankish Baths, plus the fun
vine and pine trees, dramatic waterfalls, winter
Aphrodite Waterpark – a must for kids. Near
ski resorts and nature trails. RJ tours of this
Paphos there’s a special day trip that includes
region observe its natural beauty by journeying
the UNESCO-listed Tombs of the Kings,
through tiny villages to Kykkos Monastery [2],
an immense necropolis carved out of solid
which dazzles with its opulent gold icons and
rock decorated with Doric pillars. Even more
well-preserved frescoes. Cyprus boasts a coastline of close to
villa famed for its vivid mosaics depicting
670km, but it’s more than soft sandy beaches:
stories from Greek mythology. And of course
it’s also a geological wonder. Take a mini
the natural pool grotto, the Steps of Aphrodite,
cruise to the sea caves at Manolis Bay in the
is where the god of love is said to have bathed.
crystal-clear waters of the Akamas Peninsula
You can also take a tour of Limassol to
of rugged Avakas Gorge. Nature lovers will be
floors, now fully restored with unspoilt views
charmed by Lara Bay, home to the nesting
of the azure Mediterranean Sea. At the Israel
green and caretta caretta (loggerhead) turtles.
precious stones are manufactured. From Limassol, an RJ tour heads to Nicosia,
1
[1], northwest of Paphos, and see the wonder
visit the Curium amphitheatre with mosaic
Diamond Center, experts explain how these
Roman amphitheatres, golden beaches and frescoed churches define this Mediterranean island
At the heart of the island is the Troodos
11 stops that include the Archaeological
imposing is the House of Dionysos, a Roman
Photos: Akamas Peninsula © Plamen Peev/Shutterstock; Kykkos Monastery © Tony Zelenoff/Shutterstock; Kyrenia harbour © Marcin Krzyak/Shutterstock
quiet backwater of Famagusta in the slender
a selection of RJ tours from its destination
Cyprus in the sun
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Finally, a trip to Cyprus wouldn’t be complete without sampling its local food and music. The Cyprus Folklore Night Tour gives you a fill of local cuisine of traditional mezedes (small dishes to share), sizzling barbecued meats and
RJ FLIES DAILY FROM AMMAN TO LARNACA. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM
syrupy pastries, alongside Cypriot folk dancing and music, to top off a truly memorable stay. 3
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itinerary After a couple of kilometres you’ll reach the elegant pedestrianised Exhibition Road. Take your pick from vast, world-class museums: at the Science Museum, six floors of exhibits veer from the world’s oldest steam train (Puffing Billy) to a flight simulator; the cathedral-like Natural History Museum has millions of wonders, including a squealinducing animatronic T-Rex dinosaur and Britain’s only moon rock; Victoria and Albert Museum is everyone’s favourite showcase of fancy designs, from 1920s fashions to ancient Buddhist sculptures, plus a well-curated shop. Walk or hop on a bus to plush Knightsbridge for its
1
stopover
London
Britain’s capital is one of the world’s most visited, cosmopolitan and cultured cities, where centuries of history mix with contemporary style
2
Day 1
department stores, vast
The city boasts global cuisine
temples of fashion: Harvey
galore, but begin the day in
Nichols showcases emerging
the West End with a traditional
British fashion designers – also
English breakfast at grand art
look out for Peter Pilotto, Mary
deco café The Wolseley, for
Katrantzou and old favourite
kedgeree or Eggs Royale [2].
Marc Jacobs. Legendary
A breezy stroll through Green
Harrods is worth a visit
Park takes you along ribbons
just to gape at its food hall.
of pathways and mature
You’re near the Royal Albert
maple trees, dotted with green
Hall [4], the grand performance
striped deckchairs. Walk to
venue opened by Queen
Buckingham Palace [1] for
Victoria in 1871. If you don’t
its Summer Opening
have a ticket for a BBC Proms
London is a vibrant hub of things to do throughout the year, even
(1 Aug-15 Sep) to see the lavish
concert, an annual season
more so during summer with legendary events such as the BBC
ballroom set up for a banquet,
which has taken place since
Proms at the Royal Albert Hall and top tennis at the Wimbledon
plus opulent state rooms
1895, you can queue up for
Championships. And then of course there’s royalty. With the
furnished with Sevres porcelain
a ticket costing just £5 in the
feel-good factor ramped up since the birth of Princess Charlotte
and Vermeer paintings. From
standing-only arena or balcony.
in May, Queen Elizabeth II throws open the gates of Buckingham
here, head west through Hyde
Beforehand, pop into The May
Palace, for its annual Summer Opening, offering an insight to regal
Park along the swan-filled
Fair hotel’s Baglioni restaurant
history. As well as heritage, London is a spicy mix of world cultures,
Serpentine Lake, with rowing
for early evening aperitivo
contemporary art and fashion, all wrapped up in edgy street style.
boats and pedalos for hire.
(Italian snacks and drinks). j
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itinerary
3
4
5
The best way to see a large city is often
It’s a short walk to Tate Modern, a
from above. Nestling on the South Bank
world-class collection of contemporary
of the River Thames, the immense
art housed in a converted waterfront
London Eye observation wheel [3] takes
warehouse; look out for the exhibition by
a slow rotation for 30 minutes, with
abstract artist Sonia Delauney [5]
your glass-enclosed capsule affording
(to 9 August). Outside is the slick
views of up to 40km. This area is a hub
Millennium Bridge to St Paul’s Cathedral,
of entertainment: the National Theatre,
Sir Christopher Wren’s magnificent
and a varied programme at Southbank
domed monument [6].
Centre; there’s a purple upside-down 6
From nearby Bankside, take a
cow hosting the Udderbelly Festival
boat trip aboard a Thames Clipper,
(to 19 July), and a 1950s-style
a fast and frequent service, or a City
Spiegeltent, venue of London
Cruise boat with commentary from a
Wonderground’s edgy cabaret
guide. It heads east along the river to
performances (to 27 September).
Greenwich, home to Wren’s 17th-century
Browse the riverside’s second-hand
Royal Observatory where you can
bookstalls clustered underneath
stand astride two hemispheres in the
Waterloo Bridge (inspiration for The
courtyard, or gaze through Victorian
Kinks’ famous 1967 song, Waterloo
telescopes. Stroll through Greenwich
Sunset), as skateboarders leap
Park to see the Cutty Sark, the great
acrobatically under graffiti-clad arches.
19th-century tea clipper restored in
Walk east along the river to Gabriel’s Wharf, a cluster of independent jewellery
2012 after a major fire. From here the speedy Docklands
and ceramic shops. Enjoy pizza or
Light Railway, an overground driverless
savoury pancakes at one of the cafes,
train, returns to the city. London’s
or treat yourself to contemporary global
buzzing ‘Theatreland’, around Leicester
cuisine at OXO Tower Brasserie.
Square and Covent Garden, is a must for fans of the stage. Get tickets for award-winning shows such as War
Horse [7] or Matilda The Musical (buy discounted tickets at Leicester Square’s
ROYAL JORDANIAN FLIES DAILY TO LONDON. FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM
TKTS booth) or feast on Asian food in nearby Chinatown, such as Cantonese cuisine at Four Seasons or no-frills Japanese dishes at Tokyo Diner. This central area is well connected on the London 7
Underground to return to your hotel. EMMA LEVINE
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Photos (previous page) Buckingham Palace courtesy of Royal Collection Trust/© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2015, photographer Derry Moore; Eggs Royale at The Wolseley © Corbin & King; (this page) Coca Cola London Eye courtesy of Coca Cola London Eye; Royal Albert Hall photo © BBC Proms; Centre National des Arts Plastiques/Fonds National d’Art Contemporain, Paris, on loan to Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille
Day 2
books
A Million Steps
A Month by the Sea by Dervla Murphy - published by Eland
by Hana El-Hibri - published by Interlink
In her 80th year, the acclaimed Irish travel
A luscious, coffee-table volume showcasing the
writer Dervla Murphy (who has written
beauty of the Lebanese mountains, presented
books on cycling from Europe to India and
as a day-by-day account of a long-distance trek
trekking on a mule through Ethiopia) has
along the newly-established Lebanon Mountain
finally made it to Gaza. This empathetic
Trail. The photography, by Norbert Schiller,
account of her stay among a variety of
is gorgeous, while El-Hibri’s text – personal,
locals, from students to grandparents,
poetic – brings the country to life. She notices
has exquisite moments of observation
everything, from the tiniest trailside flower to
that illuminate every page.
the motivations of the villagers she meets along the way.
A Middle East bookshelf Letting his eye rove widely over fiction and nonfiction, poetry and memoir, cookery and history, Matthew Teller rounds up some notable recent books of Middle East cultural interest The Corsair Through the Palace Keyhole
by Abdulaziz Al-Mahmoud published by Bloomsbury Qatar
by Ann Hutchison Sawalha - published by Medina
A rollicking, fun-to-read tale of 19th-century
A lively, engaging memoir that tells the story
seafaring and diplomatic intrigue by Qatari
of the family built after Ann, from Detroit, by
writer Al-Mahmoud (his debut novel) is
chance met Sami Sawalha, from Jordan, in
centred on the unlikely friendship between a
1956. They fell in love, married and moved to
British officer and the legendary pirate – or
Jordan, where Ann still lives to this day. She
corsair – of the Gulf, Erhama Bin Jaber. It’s an
reflects on more than 50 years in the Sawalha
epic piece of historical fiction with treasure,
family business – hotels, both in Amman and,
sword-fights, secret hideouts and all!
earlier, in Jerusalem – weaving family stories around a keen observance of the events of the day in culture, politics and business.
Petra and the Lost Kingdom of the Nabataeans by Jane Taylor - published by I.B. Tauris An authoritative and endlessly absorbing account in words and pictures of Petra, the great ancient capital of the Nabataeans. More than 2,000 years ago this tribe of Arabian nomads settled in what is now Jordan and came to control the trade in frankincense with the Roman Empire. Historian Jane Taylor – a long-time resident of Jordan – has done a marvellous job, evoking Nabataean civilisation with brilliant insight, illustrated with her own superb photographs (left). j 29
books The Caravan Goes On Petra: the Concealed Rose by Amjad Nasser - published by Tavern Books
by Frank Jungers - published by Medina
This slim volume holds a single extended poem by
The former president and CEO
celebrated Jordanian poet Amjad Nasser, evoking
of the petroleum giant Aramco
the oddly diffident splendour of “this endless rose”,
looks back over more than 30
the great ancient capital of the Nabataeans, Petra.
years in Saudi Arabia, from the
Translated into English for the first time, it forms
exploratory postwar period
a devastatingly beautiful mini-epic, discussing
through to the tumultuous
meanings behind Petra’s 19th-century rediscovery
1970s at the head of the world’s
and contemporary ambience. Bring it with you
largest energy firm. Personal
when you visit.
anecdotes from meetings with King Faisal and other Saudi leaders enliven what is a
The Architect’s Apprentice
remarkable account from the heart of a global business.
by Elif Shafak - published by Penguin One of Turkey’s most popular writers tells a mesmeric tale of 16th-century life at the court of the Ottoman sultan, centred on the character of Jahan, an adventurous boy apprenticed to the royal architect. As Jahan falls in love with the sultan’s daughter, architecture becomes a metaphor for lives built, destroyed, and rebuilt: Shafak writes beautifully of Istanbul and the inner lives of her characters, in a story suffused with tender humanity.
The Gaza Kitchen Willow Trees Don’t Weep
by Laila El-Haddad & Maggie Schmitt published by Just World Books This fabulous full-colour cookbook is
by Fadia Faqir - published by Quercus
about way more than food, as its
This new novel by Jordanian-
subtitle ‘A Palestinian Culinary Journey’
British writer Fadia Faqir
hints. It uses the almost endless variety
develops a story of anger
of Palestinian cuisine as a way to
and forgiveness around
introduce daily life in Gaza. Recipes for
the restless character of
stingray soup or maftoul (couscous)
Najwa, who sets out on a
are peppered with interviews of local
search to find her father,
characters, short essays on herb-
absent since she was
gathering or fishing – and lots of
four. The journey – across
images inside family kitchens.
the world – leads Najwa into a heart of darkness, where the possibility of redemption seems
The Book of the Sultan’s Seal
remote. Faqir’s insightful
by Youssef Rakha - published by Interlink
writing focuses on the
A deeply complex novel by this prolific Egyptian writer and critic, newly translated into English.
complex human dynamic,
A story of marital betrayal by journalist Mustafa Corbaci is woven into a series of drives around
drawing out religious and
modern-day Cairo, evoking visions that sweep from Ottoman and Islamic history through to an
political themes amid the
imagined future. Rakha’s buoyant prose deftly unfolds layers of narratives in a search for fresh
contradictions of family love.
identities to fit the reality of contemporary Arab and Muslim life.
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SummeR JordAn
IN
A born and raised Ammanite takes you to the cooler parts of the Kingdom, where a summer holiday is a breeze to put together words
Farah Shanti
F
or most visitors, a Jordanian summer can at first be synonymous with sweltering heat – understandable, given the Kingdom’s sandy dunes or below-sealevel shores. But it doesn’t have to be that way. As any native knows, Jordan has some excellent, incredibly cool summertime destinations on offer to help you beat the heat. My yearly summer visits back home to Amman always start with a sugary treat: nothing says summer quite so refreshingly as a couple of scoops of fusion delights from the Four Winters ice cream shop in the Abdoun neighbourhood. One of its highlight flavours this summer is strawberry and lavender, light and delicate so I feel like I’m in a field of wild flowers. With the exquisite lavender still lingering on my tongue, I make my way to the hilltop area of Weibdeh, one of Amman’s most beautiful spots, filled with pine trees and parks and many varieties of shade-producing plantlife. What also makes this old district a haven in summer and a feast for the eyes is the plethora of art galleries, most of them within walking distance of one another. My personal favourite is the well-established Darat al-Funun, which houses contemporary creations from artists throughout the Arab world plus an extremely impressive collection of books. All of this in a lush 1920s Mediterranean villa, with beautiful hanging gardens, a fountain and a shady café on a wooden porch that all capture the city’s cool breezes. Heading north-east from Amman for a one-hour drive is the historic town of Al-Salt, which holds beautiful childhood memories for many Ammanis. The name of the ancient city, and former capital of Jordan, comes from the Greek, meaning ‘thick forest’. Nestling in the Balqa highlands around 1,000 metres above sea level, it still boasts some of the country’s most beautiful natural scenery of oak and pine. Summer is an excellent season to visit the Mountain Breeze Country Club, where you can dine on local cuisine with 360-degree views of the Jelad Mountains. The country club also offers accommodation, which might be a perfect way to make the most of the city’s nature and nearby Ottoman structures – the frescoed ceilings of the Abu Jaber mansion are especially impressive – before heading north for even cooler climes the next day. j
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The relaxing shores of Aqaba
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Darat al-Funun and its impressive collection of books
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Imposing hilltop Qal’at ar-Rabadh in Ajloun
A little more than an hour’s drive further north, the verdant hills of Ajloun provide a magnificent summer retreat, and are home to some of the world’s most southerly pine forests. Here, the cooler climate (1,200m above sea level) means you can even be active without breaking too much of a sweat. On top of the hill Jabal Auf sits the 12th-century Qal’at ar-Rabadh (Ajloun Castle), the town’s main focal point, with a long, sloping entrance leading to sturdy, jagged walls and a moat bridge. It’s a refreshing sanctuary with impressive views of the surrounding wadis that lead to the Jordan Valley. A trip to this Saracen structure is the perfect way to get in the mood for hiking, and the nearby 13km square Ajloun Forest Reserve has winding valleys and walking trails filled with evergreen oak, carob and black iris (the national flower of Jordan). The local animal life is the most thrilling part; my heart always skips a beat at the sight of a roe deer, a local species protected in the reserve by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. 35
Having enjoyed the cool, verdant north of the country, a summer trip to Jordan isn’t complete without heading south to Aqaba on the Red Sea’s shores. The temperature climbs a little higher here in the summer, but the startlingly blue waters and surrounding villages offer a vast array of cooling sanctuaries. Myriad watersport opportunities here range from snorkelling and diving in the technicolour coral reefs to highoctane jet skiing and fun water polo, with instructors and equipment in abundance. If you’re avoiding the beach during hot afternoons – I tend to follow local practice and take a post-lunch siesta – make up for that in the evenings with a sunset cruise hugging the waterfront, or head to Aqaba’s public beach on Friday evenings filled with promenading locals. Seafood restaurants along the harbour, or tables out on terraces overlooking the sea, are a perfect end to the day. The flavours of the Mediterranean and Arabian seafood dishes are intense enough to remember your Jordanian summer long after you’ve left the Kingdom.
10 seAside gEmS in the
Middle eaSt From luxury resorts to wildlife sanctuaries and dive sites, here’s a round up of some unusual coastal getaways words
Nurai Island Abu Dhabi, UAE
The UAE’s capital isn’t short of islands, but the new Zaya resort on Nurai Island is really making waves. With plenty of private, expansive outside spaces, infinity pools and roof terraces, this is a truly luxurious beach escape. Think chic, modern and white with both beach and over-the-water villas full of billowing curtains and every mod con. Dine at one of six cafés and restaurants with sea views, or book a spa treatment in a private pavilion where the sound of the waves will wash away any stress.
Georgina Wilson-Powell
Jeddah Corniche Beach Saudi Arabia
Jeddah has much to offer its visitors, even in summer. Its Corniche Beach has undergone massive redevelopment in recent years. Split into three districts more than 100km long, head for the southern section to find the largest open air art museum in the world, with sculptures from a global selection of artists such as Henry Moore. Towards the middle of the coastline you’ll find Fatima Al Zahra Mosque (left), otherwise known as the Floating Mosque. It’s actually built in the sea and makes a beautiful focal point for your swim. The northern end of Jeddah has been redeveloped with families in mind, boasting playgrounds, insider tip - The King Fahd fountain gardens, restaurants and areas on the Corniche Beach is the tallest to take in the Red Sea view. j fountain in the world. 37
MAS is a co-educational, college preparatory day school for grades KG-12, located in one of the most afuent areas of Amman. The school program is based on the American school curriculum (Common Core Standards) taught at American schools both in the U.S. and abroad. Our program provides our students with the advantage and exibility of easily transferring to international schools across the globe and in the United States. The Modern American School is proud to be associated with the American International School Worldwide Network.
Photos: (previous page) Nurai Island photo courtesy of Zaya Nurai Island; Mosque © M S AlMuhammady/Shutterstock; (this page) Banana Island courtesy of Banana Island; gazelles © Muzna Butt/Shutterstock;
Banana Island Qatar Anantara’s latest Middle Eastern resort comes fully furnished with over-the-water villas on this beautiful island, located a 20-minute boat ride from the coast of capital city Doha. After arriving by luxury ferry or private helicopter find everything here a family needs to have a wonderful holiday – a cinema, a bowling alley, a surf pool and 100-metre lane pool, plus no fewer than nine restaurants, such as Ted’s, an American-style diner. Couples can dine in majestic majlis (‘place of sitting’) on the beach, while the supervised kids’ club is full of pool tables, video games and plenty of activities for the younger ones. Umm Al Quwain UAE
Abu Qir Egypt
Dead Sea Jordan
Back in the 6th century, Heracleion and Canopus, the sunken cities that are being excavated at Abu Qir, were trading hot spots for the whole Mediterranean. One of the most interesting diving and beach locales in the region, Abu Qir, which sits at the northernmost point on the peninsula 20km from Alexandria, is a sight to behold for any diving enthusiasts. Egypt is in the process of creating an underwater museum to show off its sunken treasures.
The famous lake, the lowest point on earth at 400m below sea level, is dubbed the world’s largest natural spa. It’s not a place for swimming – instead enjoy floating and bobbing in the heavily salty waters (32%). Make the most of the therapeutic benefits of the mud, chock-full of minerals and salts which have medically-proven benefits. Slather yourself on the shores with the black mud, or head to one of many luxury resorts where you can enjoy their spa treatments and therapies. 39
A sparsely populated emirate, Umm Al Quwain is home to diverse flora and fauna. Head to its sandy coast for a weekend away from the crowds, a short drive 45km northeast from insider tip - Dreamland Dubai. You’ll discover blacktip reef sharks Aqua Park in Umm Al and green turtles in Quwain has 30 rides the sea, and flamingos and overnight camping and cormorants in facilities to enjoy. the dense mangroves, which connect seven islands off its coast. Arabian gazelles (above) have recently been re-introduced and appear to be flourishing, too. Hire a kayak or take a boat ride to fully discover its rich ecosystem. j
Naqb Beach Egypt
Bonita Bay Lebanon
Tihamah Plains Saudi Arabia
Simaisma beach Qatar
Summer isn’t summer in Lebanon until you’ve indulged in a couple of swanky beach resorts. Out at Batroun, Bonita Bay is one of the nicest on offer. While it’s not as hedonistic as the five-star pool parties in Beirut, the resort offers live music on a Sunday or a romantic spot for a sunset meal in its fine dining restaurant any day of the week. Inspired by Greece with its lavish gardens, a crisp clean lap pool and attentive staff, for a beach-side treat, Bonita Bay is worth the entrance fee.
The Tihamah Plains stretch up the west coast of Saudi Arabia and beyond, running from the Gulf of Aqaba to the Bab el Mandeb Straight in Yemen. Sweltering in summer, they still offer one of the last truly rustic desert beach experiences in the Middle East. There are more than 1,000 islands off this coastline, with sandy beaches and pristine coral reefs to explore. At the southern end of the Saudi coast discover the Farasan Islands, home to rare crude amber, bird species and sea life.
For a free beach day in Qatar, Simaisma is the place to head. Approximately 27km outside Doha, this village is happy to host families who want to splash around in shallow waters. There are mangroves where children can find small birds and fish and learn about the Middle East’s delicate ecosystem. Volleyball and soccer areas and playgrounds are among the activities back on land. There’s also a park a little further back from the beach, if the hot summer sand proves too much.
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Photos: Naqb Beach underwater scene © Volodymyr Goinyk/Shutterstock; Bonita Bay courtesy of Bonita Bay
Part of the Sharm El Sheikh coastline, Naqb Beach overlooks the Gulf of Aqaba and has a unique formation. The water is only ankle deep for around a kilometre from shore, before dropping off a steep cliff, making it perfect for families with small children and keen insider tip - Naqb means divers. Despite being on the fringe of the Sinai desert, one of the most barren spots on earth, Naqb beach ‘shipwreck’ and this area brims with lush life, and slightly fewer tourists than certainly has plenty. You can’t other Egyptian resort spots. Book a desert adventure miss the World War II wreck or learn to dive in one of the most beautiful beaches that’s so close to shore you can in the region. snorkel and dive around it.
lanvin’s designs
PariS on
How couturier Jeanne Lanvin helped establish Paris as the world’s fashion capital WORDS
Paula Hardy
T
here is no city that takes fashion more seriously than Paris. It is the home of haute couture and the city of the Sun King, Louis XIV, whose dazzling court catapulted French fashion into the global spotlight and gave birth to the luxury goods business. In July, when the sun gives the Champs Elysées a warm honeyed glow, new fashion fantasies are born at Paris’s exclusive haute couture shows. These shows with their magical creations demonstrate the very frontiers of craftsmanship, where the talent of the métiers d’art (master artisans) are put to the ultimate test in translating a designer’s vision of beauty into a wearable garment. Like Paris itself, haute couture is about dreams and romance, but many debate its relevance in the modern world. One man who would dispute this is Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera, the city’s renowned museum of fashion currently holding a retrospective of couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946), to 23 August. Before Coco Chanel, Lanvin was the force in fashion, having launched her couture house – the oldest in Paris – in 1889. She blazed a trail as an entrepreneur, creating the world’s first luxury lifestyle brand as she moved from designing hats to children’s clothes, women’s wear, lingerie and interior décor. She opened shops in Biarritz, Barcelona and Buenos Aires, and invented the idea of four fashion seasons. In 1927, on her daughter Marguerite’s 30th birthday, she celebrated by launching the legendary perfume Arpège with its famous motherand-daughter logo that became the visual identity of the brand. The scope of her vision is striking in its modernity. She was the first designer to give holistic thought to modern lifestyles. j
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The Lanvin exhibition with vintage photos of the great designer
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Palais Galliera, hosting the Lanvin exhibition
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1930s La Diva design by Lanvin
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Bespoke handbag designer Kasia Dietz leads private fashion tours
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The Debutante Ball held at the luxury Hotel de Crillon is a showcase for top fashion designers
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Gehry’s new Fondation Louis Vuitton
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and set within an old engraver’s workshop in the Passage des Panoramas. Further east, the cool Marais district has emerging designers and vintage specialists such as Violette et Léonie, Valentine Gauthier and French Trotters. Private fashion tours led by handbag designer Kasia Dietz open the door to many more. Also getting a thoroughly Parisian makeover is the historic Forum des Halles. Only Paris could rejuvenate an old wholesale food market in such style. Meadow-like gardens now surround a giant golden-hued glass canopy, which will enclose a glittering line-up of gourmet restaurants and 130 globalbrand boutiques. The crossover between fashion, food, art and architecture would have seemed natural to Lanvin who presciently understood that good design affects every aspect of our lives. She would also, no doubt have approved of the spectacular new Fondation Louis Vuitton, a new contemporary art museum and cultural centre commissioned by another esteemed Parisian fashion house, and set in the Bois de Boulogne. Built by Canadian architect Frank Gehry its shimmering, glass-panelled exterior is both visually surprising and technologically smart, just like Lanvin’s designs. Its aim is to reinforce the connection between Louis Vuitton and cutting edge art and design. More than that, it reminds us that creativity has always existed at the crossroads between art and consumerism. The way we see ourselves, our bodies and our cities shapes fashion for every season, just as fashion shapes us.
Photos: (previous page) La Diva design © Patrimoine Lanvin; Jeanne Lanvin with Laure Albin Guillot © Laure Albin Guillot/Roger-Viollet; Palais Galliera © Paris Tourist Office, photographer Daniel Thierry; (this page) Kasia Dietz © Chloe Lodge; Debutante Ball © Le Bal/Renault/Payal New York (jewellery)/Hotel de Crillon; Frank Gehry Fondation Louis Vuitton © 2014 Todd Eberle
Lanvin understood that good design affects our lives
Despite the bows, ribbons and pearls that ripple through her silk georgette dresses, her clothes are effortlessly modern and wearable, their apparent simplicity hiding a cleverness of cut and meticulous craftsmanship that is the true signature of haute couture. One focus in the exhibition is a catalogue of exquisite dresses that, even today, would fit in fine at the famous Debutante Ball, held at the revamped Hôtel de Crillon. Influenced by the graphic quality of Art Deco, the rich ornamentation of embroidery, crystals, bows and beading is expressed judiciously. The outlook, too, is international. Take the lamé dress, with its blue silk train quilted in the Japanese obi belt technique, that was inspired by her extensive travels. Other beaded silk dresses from the 1920s could easily be mistaken for a modern Lanvin piece from current artistic director Alber Elbaz whose bejewelled mini dresses are de rigeur. Thanks to the summer sales (24 June-4 August), you can buy one for a snip of the usual price at Lanvin’s historic atelier on Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré. It is located just steps away from the Golden Triangle – an area bordered by the ChampsElysées, Avenue Montaigne and Avenue Marceau – where you’ll find the world’s most famous fashion houses. Grands magasins (department stores) such as Galeries Lafayette, Le Printemps and Le Bon Marché are other big-name fashion addresses, while the arcades around the Louvre hide posh boutiques such as La Petite Robe Noire, where Didier Ludot collects and sells little black dresses from the 1920s to 1990s. You’ll want to wear one to the new Caff è Stern, designed by Philippe Starck
talKing tO
eLePhants A Thai adventure in Chiang Rai is a rare chance to experience these Asian beasts Words
Adrian Mourby
T
he elephants came to breakfast this morning. There were two of them in front of our open-air dining room, each weighing at least 40 times my weight. Two mahouts (elephant handlers) were squatting below feeding them bananas. I was invited to join in but it is rather worrying to have one of those trunks snaking its way towards you. Elephants not only sniff out where you are holding bananas, but use the tip of their trunk to take and store the odd banana for later. They eat all the time – but then they have a lot of weight to keep up. ‘Talk to her,’ said one of the mahouts indicating that I should stroke the flank of this creature that’s about the size of an armoured car. I did my best but she paid no attention. Ten of the 19 elephants at Chiang Rai Camp really like people and enjoy interacting but my elephant was thinking bananas and not much else. By the end of the day, however, I would have learned to shout commands and use my own movements to communicate what I wanted her to do. 47
There are elephants in zoos in Thailand and you’ll also find them giving rides in cities and on beaches. But the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Chiang Rai (a 90-minute flight from Bangkok) is the only one where you actually live among them, feed them, ride them and wake to see them grazing on the plain below. After Thailand outlawed logging, its working elephant population was redundant. Four Seasons rescued some off the city streets and brought them with their mahouts to Chiang Rai. The ones you learn to ride here are all female, not because male elephants won’t accept riders but because in a camp like this the elephants have to work side by side and female elephants are much better at this than males. That afternoon I warily put on my indigo mahout costume: short baggy trousers, a short-sleeved top and a pink sash which I was told to tie tightly because it would be my ‘safety belt’. Then four of us, all first timers, were led to the stable where our elephants were assembled. We were introduced to each individually, and encouraged to pat and talk to them. j
My mahout told me that if an elephant’s trunk comes near you and you breathe out towards it she will remember your smell. We were told how to command our elephants to lie down so we could climb on board our new means of transport. And then we were off. I’d been told to sit astride the elephant’s neck rather than on its shoulders. My elephant then fl icked her ears back, which held my legs in place. And so we walked on, each of us with our elephant’s mahout on foot nearby just in case anything went wrong. I discovered that pai means go forward and baen means turn, accompanied by a light kick to the appropriate ear. There were also words for stop (‘ how!’) and backwards (‘sook sook sook’) but this had to be reinforced by rocking yourself backwards and forwards. On the whole, however, my elephant followed what the others did. When they walked she followed, and when they stopped to twist their trunks round some tasty bamboo, she foraged too, completely ignoring my commands of Pai! Pai! Our first afternoon ended any inhibitions about elephants. We learned to dismount by commanding the elephant to bow her head down, at which point you could slide down the forehead. You could climb up that way too, a good way of realising that an elephant’s face is actually bigger than your body. The afternoon was hot so after two hours, we led our elephants to the river that marks the border
between Thailand and Myanmar to let them fi ll up and cool off. One of them used her trunk to spray her back – and therefore her rider – liberally. But more adventure was to come when our agile mahouts climbed on behind us as the elephants waded into the middle of the brown, fast-flowing river. It was no hardship to have my legs get wet but then our grateful elephants lay down to cool off properly, rolling from side to side. This was when my pink-scarf ‘safety belt’ came in handy, as the mahout behind me grabbed hold of it so I wouldn’t be tipped into the river. On our way back to camp we four novice mahouts suddenly found ourselves chatting and laughing. The elephants had broken the ice between us as well as between us and them. The next morning when I met elephants at breakfast time I went straight up and embraced one of them. She ignored me, of course.
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Adrian Mourby, the novice mahout
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Luxury camp at the Four Seasons
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Photos: (above) Adrian Mourby © Kate Tadman-Mourby; all other photos courtesy of Four Seaons.
You then realise that an elephant’s face is bigger than your body
onboard rj
A world of stories
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RJ activities Royal Plus rewards A day in the life Fleet Transit maps Destination maps Travel tips Inflight entertainment Passenger info
onboard rj ActivitiES
1
2
On the go A round-up of recent events, launches and more, all in association with RJ
3
RJ renews deal as official carrier for JFA Amman / 4 May
RJ sponsors Soccerex conference Dead Sea / 3-4 May
Musical Mamma Mia sponsored by RJ Amman / 14-16 May
RJ official carrier for World Economic Forum Amman / 19 May
RJ has renewed its agreement
RJ served as the official carrier
A smash-hit musical based
For a ninth successive year,
with the Jordan Football
of Soccerex Asian Forum for
on the songs of Swedish
RJ served as the national
Association in the presence
a second year. The two-day
pop sensations ABBA and
carrier and a sponsor for the
of HRH Prince Ali, president
networking event hosted
composed by two if its former
World Economic Forum [3],
of the JFA. This is the sixth
speakers from world football,
members, Mamma Mia was
an international institution
consecutive year that the airline
such as HRH Prince Ali and
brought to Jordan by RJ after
‘committed to improving the
continues as its official carrier,
former Arsenal and English
reaching a global audience of
state of the world through
and sponsor of the association
FA vice chairman David Dein.
54 million people [1].
public-private cooperation’.
The production, featuring
and its national teams [4].
This sponsorship cemented
86 musicians and performers,
RJ’s reputation as a quality
lit up Amman’s Prince Hamza
service airline that offers a wide
signing,” said RJ’s CEO and
Marketing Kingdom sponsored by RJ Amman / 10-11 May
Arena, wowing crowds with its
route network and extends
President, Captain Misto. He
Marketing Kingdom, the
mix of recognisable songs and
facilities to the hundreds of
also expressed admiration for
fast-growing international
extravangant costumes. Also
participants from more than
the Prince’s efforts to improve
marketing summit, made
adapted into a hit Hollywood
50 countries, capable of
Jordanian football, and how
its debut in Jordan this year.
movie, the story interweaves
transporting leaders from the
proud RJ was to transport the
RJ was the official carrier for
ABBA’s best-loved songs
political and business worlds.
representatives of the national
the event, which featured
alongside a tale of a wedding
teams and associations around
innovative presentations from
on a Greek island – with an
of encouraging large-scale
the world.
Google, Coca-Cola and others.
unusual twist.
conferences in Jordan.
“We are pleased that HRH Prince Ali attended this
52
It also continues RJ’s work
onboard rj ActIvItIES
4
2
5
5
RJ marks Jordan Independence Day Amman / 24 May
Allgäu-Orient Rallye team visits RJ Amman / 27 May
Hollywood’s Stephen Baldwin praises RJ Amman / 28 May
RJ signs new deal to boost medical tourism Amman / 30 May
RJ took part in celebrations for
A two-to-three week race from
Best known for his roles in
RJ has announced a strategic
the 69th Jordan Independence
Germany to Jordan, the 10th
Oscar-winning movies such as
partnership with the Jordan
Day, by flying one of its aircraft
annual Allgäu-Orient Rallye
Born on the Fourth of July and
Hospitals Association.
alongside the Royal Jordanian
arrived in Amman this year on
The Usual Suspects, Stephen
Together they will co-operate
Falcons aerobatic fleet at
26 May. The following day the
Baldwin recently visited Jordan
with the Jordan Tourism Board
low altitude over Amman [2].
team behind the event were
to film forthcoming feature
to attract tourists seeking
Social media influencers and
welcomed to RJ by the airline’s
The Heart and Hope of Jordan.
medical treatment.
bloggers were invited to RJ’s
president and CEO Captain
headquarters to enjoy the air
Haitham Misto [5].
Captain Haitham Misto
were 12 RJ employees
card. Baldwin praised the
New RJ Airbus deal with AFI KLM E&M Paris / 17 Jun
who drove vehicles that RJ
hospitality of the RJ crew and
Air France Industries KLM
launch of RJ’s #LoveRJO social
sponsored. Those vehicles
the high levels of comfort on
Engineering & Maintenance
media campaign, with a map of
and others will be sold to raise
his journey. He added that
Group will continue to cover
Jordan that lit up each time it
money for cochlear implants
he hoped his new film, which
component support for RJ’s
was tweeted, and a unique icon
for hearing impaired Jordanian
focusses on the humane role
Airbus A330 aircraft after
was designed to adorn branded
children. RJ’s participation
Jordan plays in hosting millions
their agreement was renewed
merchandise especially for
is part of its social corporate
of refugees from neigbouring
during the Paris Air Show 2015.
Jordan’s Independence Day:
responsibility and support for
countries, espeically Syria,
The contract will run until the
Love RJ Love JO.
Jordanian success stories.
would highlight its efforts.
retirement of the A330s.
show, followed by lunch of traditional Jordanian mansaf. The event also marked the
presented the Hollywood star with a Royal Plus’ Platinum
Among the participants
53
O N B O A R D R J R O YA L P L U S
Exciting summer offers from our partners ROCKETMILES SUMMER PROMOTION As a first-time Rocketmiles customer, earn 5,000 bonus Royal Plus Miles when you book a hotel for 3 or more nights — that’s in addition to the 1,000–5,000 miles earned per night, for every stay! Book by 30 September 2015 and reach your next vacation faster. For more details visit rocketmiles.com/rj-5k-summer
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54
With Sixt, you can earn valuable Miles when you rent a car and receive exclusive benefits. As a Royal Plus member you can now apply for a free of charge Sixt card matching your Royal Plus tier and enjoy discounts, upgrades and premium services worldwide. Learn more at sixt.com/royal-jordanian
O N B O A R D R J R O YA L P L U S
PARTNERS
ROYAL PLUS REWARDS Earn Miles on Royal Jordanian and oneworld flights EXTRA PLUSES The frequent flyers
TIER BONUS Members receive tier
programme repays your loyalty to the
bonuses with every flight they make
airline with air miles. Royal Plus delivers
on RJ. The higher the tier, the higher
quality services, more rewards and extra
the bonus.
flexibility. You’ll start earning miles and segment points from the first flight on RJ or any oneworld partner.
Ruby Silver
Sapphire Gold
Emerald Platinum
Tier Qualification
Tier Maintenance
Tier Bonus
15,000 miles
12,000 miles
15%
14 segments
12 segments
15%
Tier Qualification
Tier Maintenance
Tier Bonus
35,000 miles
30,000miles
35%
28 segments
24 segments
35%
Tier Qualification
Tier Maintenance
Tier Bonus
55,000 miles
50,000 miles
50%
42 segments
36 segments
50%
CLASS BONUS
Class
Class Bonus Classes
Members earn bonus miles
Economy Restricted
0%
based on the ticket fare and the class in which they travel. The more flexible the fare, the higher the bonus.
R,O,Q, W,S,V,M
Economy Flexi
20%
P,K,H,B,Y
Business Restricted
25%
Z,D,C
Business Flexi
50%
J
55
O N B O A R D R J A D AY I N T H E L I F E
I graduated from the University of Jordan with a degree in English. During my first job as an English teacher, one of my relatives recommended I should apply for a job at RJ. I got the job, and have never looked back! After joining the RJ family in 1997 and during my work at Queen Alia International Airport, I resumed my education as part of an RJ
MY ROLE FOR QAIA’S NEW TERMINAL
programme. I graduated with an executive MBA in Aviation Management from Maastricht School of Management in
I was the project manager for the airport’s new terminal, which opened in 2013, for which there were many important tasks to ensure its smooth opening.
the Netherlands. I love being able to apply my theoretical knowledge to my work. I have progressed professionally at RJ over the years, including positions as a supervisor and project manager of various operational departments. I am now the Director of Handling Support and Out Stations Affairs. My typical day includes meetings to discuss all related issues in operations, and responding to requests from colleagues based at the airports both here and
A day in the life Riyad Al Shaban explains his fulfilling job as RJ’s Director of Handling Support and Out Stations Affairs
around the world. I regularly meet with members of the airport’s services department
I hadn’t ever flown before
management team. Recently,
working for RJ. My first flight
one of my most exciting roles
was from Marka airport to
was as a team member for the
QAIA, just a 10-minute ride,
work with as my second family
new 787 Dreamliner launch,
to assist passengers being
– we have a great working
last year, where I worked on
diverted from Amman due to
relationship. Two of my current
the flight data and logistics
bad weather. My second was a
team members were my
necessary to operate the flight
holiday to Thailand – a slightly
mentors and teachers when I
in and out of QAIA.
longer distance! These days I
first joined RJ. I am very lucky
fly regularly for work.
to have such dedicated and
An important part of the job is to be a good communicator.
and Beirut, which I love for its cuisine and nature. I consider the people I
I have a few favourite
qualified colleagues.
We have 60 out-station
destinations: New York, the
managers around the world,
sleepless city where I have
like to gain more knowledge
each one with their own way of
lots of family and friends; the
and experience to continue
thinking. You have to be able to
beautiful city of Paris; London,
advancing with RJ. As a
think globally and work for the
with its strange combination
Jordanian I am very proud to be
best interest of the company.
of history and modernity;
working for the national airline.
I always aim high, and would
56
A major part of that was to introduce a new set of standard operational procedures for many aspects including the baggage handling system, movable jet ways and check-in counters. It was important to provide all staff members, including RJ crew members and head office staff, with an orientation and training session about the new terminal facilities. I also had to oversee the planning of new office and operation space, gradually moving flights to the new terminal, and finally closing the old terminal and opening the new one simultaneously. I was very honoured to be a part of the welcoming line up that met His Majesty King Abdullah II during that opening.
ONBOARD RJ FLEET
DISCOVER RJ’S FLEET
Airbus 320
The newest arrival to the RJ family, there are now five Boeing 787s in the fleet
Tail Height 39’8”
Span 111’10”
Max Range 6480 km
Airbus 319 K H G
K H G
F E D
F E D 5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
25
20
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
C B A
C B A
Crown Class: 24 Seats, Rows 1-4
Economy Class: 246 Seats, Economy Class: Rows 5-37
Engines 2
Length 186’01”
Engines 2
Length 111’
Cargo Capacity 47.882 tons
Tail Height 55’6”
Cargo Capacity 6.786 tons
Tail Height 39’9”
Span 197’8”
Max Range 15200 km
Span 111’10”
Max Range 6945 km
Cruising Speed 1100 km/hour
Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour
Embraer 195
Airbus 330
Engines 2
Length 193’6”
Engines 2
Length 126’10”
Cargo Capacity 37.578 tons
Tail Height 58’2”
Cargo Capacity 3.7 tons
Tail Height 34’7”
Span 197’10”
Max Range 13420 km
Span 94’3”
Max Range 4260 km
Cruising Speed 1050 km/hour
Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour
Embraer 175 J H
27
30
29
28
25
26
24
23
G
20
22
21
A
B
C
16
19
15
17
18
12
13
11
14
10
8
7
9
A B C
4
5
3
1 B
2
H
J
G H J
Airbus 321 A
Freighters
Length 123’3”
Cargo Capacity 9.435 tons Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour
Boeing 787
o. in Fleet: XXX ngines: XXX argo Capacity: XXXX eed: XXX km/hr an: XX X" ngth: XXX' XX" il Height: XX' XX" ax. Range: XXXX NM
Engines 2
Engines 2
Length 146’0”
Engines 2
Length 103’11”
Cargo Capacity 12.837 tons
Tail Height 39’7”
Cargo Capacity 2.65 tons
Tail Height 32’3”
Span 111’10”
Max Range 5550 km
Span 85’4”
Max Range 4075 km
Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour
Cruising Speed 1005 km/hour
■ Closet ■ Lavatory ■ Galley
57 57 | ٦٨
be privileged. be one. Introducing new oneworld benefits. Royal Plus Platinum and Gold members both now enjoy additional baggage allowances on all oneworld airlines - and their baggage also receives priority handling from aircraft to carousel. Learn more at oneworld.com/benefits
member of
be connected Welcome to oneworld, an alliance of the world’s leading airlines committed to providing the highest level of service and convenience across almost 1,000 destinations worldwide. Whenever Royal Jordanian can’t take you to your final destination, we encourage you to travel with our oneworld partner airlines. Enjoy an array of special privileges and rewards — which include earning and redeeming Royal Plus miles on all oneworld airlines and, for Royal Plus Platinum and Gold members, access to over 600 premium airport lounges.
oneworld alliance members
be recognised As a oneworld traveller, satisfaction awaits you around the globe. Your Royal Plus status is recognised across all member airlines. And you are entitled to a range of benefits, which are provided according to the following oneworld tier levels, no matter which cabin class you are flying in:
*Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the oneworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald level members. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LAN, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines, TAM Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. TAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits.
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To book, or to discover more multi-continent and single-continent options, visit www.oneworld.com/flights
onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps
AmmAn, JordAn Queen AliA internAtionAl Airport
how do you transfer? Queen Alia International Airport has one main terminal building. All arrivals are on Level 2 and all departures are on Level 3. If you have your boarding pass for your connecting flight, follow the Transfer sign through security to Level 3 and proceed to your departure gate. If you do not have a boarding pass for your flight, proceed to the transfer desk on Level 2 and then through security to Level 3 and proceed to your departure gate. how long does it take to transfer? You should allow 10 to 15 minutes after clearing security to walk to your departure gate. Connecting from international to domestic flights Once passport control is complete, exit the terminal and proceed to Level 3. If you have a boarding pass, head to the gate. If not, proceed to the check-in counter in Zone B. Connecting from domestic to International flights Exit the terminal and proceed to Level 3. If you have a boarding pass, head to passport control and proceed to the gate. If not, proceed to the check-in counters in Zone A.
oneworld carriers operating at Queen Alia International Airport Royal Jordanian British Airways Qatar Airways
hong kong hong kong internAtionAl Airport Airline lounges
Terminal 2 how do you transfer between terminals? All arrivals are on Level 5. All departures are on Level 6. If you have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, proceed through security to Level 6 departures. If you do not have a boarding pass, proceed to the transfer desk for the carrier of your next flight. Once you have checked in, follow transfer signs through security to Level 6 departures.
Check-in Customs/ immigration Train
Escalators to gat 501-530 Transfer bus BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge
how long does it take to transfer between terminals? You should allow at least 30 minutes after clearing security to walk to your departure gate. An alternative route is the passenger train shuttle on Level 1 that runs continuously between the east and west wings of the terminal.
Airline lounges
Terminal 2
CX Cathay Pacific Loung
Transfer desk
JL Japan Airlines Loung
Check-in
MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge
Customs/ immigration
oneworld carriers operating at hong kong Airport Royal Jordanian American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Japan Airlines
Transfer desk
Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways S7 SriLankan Airlines
Train
Airline lounges
Escalators to gates 501-530Terminal 2
Transfer desk
Transfer bus
Check-in
BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge
Customs/ immigration
CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
Train
JL Japan Airlines Lounge
Escalators to gates 501-530
MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge
Transfer bus BA/QF British Airways, Qantas Lounge
6060 | ٦٥
CX Cathay Pacific Lounge JL Japan Airlines Lounge MH Malaysia Airlines
onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps
new york, UsA john f kennedy internAtionAl Airport how do you transfer between terminals? The AirTrain operates frequently between all terminals at John F Kennedy (JFK) airport, as well as to stations that connect to the various New York railroad transportation systems. how long does it take to transfer between terminals? Allow 60-90 minutes to transfer from one terminal to another. The approximate travel time for the AirTrain, including stops at all terminals, is eight minutes. how much time is required to transfer between JFk and Laguardia airports? Allow 45-60 minutes for transportation between airports. Allow a minimum connection time of three hours if not otherwise specified by your airline. Proceed to the ground transportation information counter for more details. Please note there is no baggage transfer process between JFK and New York LaGuardia (LGA) or Newark (EWR). You must collect your bags at your arrival airport and take them with you to your connecting flight.
oneworld carriers operating at new york John F kennedy Airport terminal 1 Japan Airlines terminal 7 British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Iberia, Qantas terminal 8 Royal Jordanian, Air Berlin, American Airlines, Finnair, LAN TAM, Qatar Airways
ChICAgo, UsA o’hAre internAtionAl Airport
ounges
r desk
in
ms/ ation
tors to gates 0
er bus
Airways, ge
acific Lounge
nes Lounge
Airlines
how do you transfer? For international arrivals at Terminal 5, immigration and customs on the lower level. Re-check your baggage at the re-check area beyond customs. to connect to American Airlines and Iberia Follow signs to Airport Transit System (ATS) to connect to Terminal 3. Clear security and proceed to your departure gate. to connect to British Airways, Japan Airlines or royal Jordanian from a UsA domestic arrival in terminal 3 Follow signs to ATS and proceed to Terminal 5. If you have a boarding pass, clear security and proceed to your departure gate. If you do not have a boarding pass, please check in at the airline’s counter. All bags will be checked through to your destination. how long does it take to transfer? The ATS serves all terminals and operates every three to five minutes from 7am to 10pm, and every 20 minutes from 10pm to 7am. Maximum travel time is 10 minutes.
oneworld carriers operating at Chicago o’hare Airport terminal 5, Concourse m Arrivals and departures: Royal Jordanian, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Qatar Airways Arrivals Only: American Airlines, Air Berlin, Iberia, Japan Airlines terminal 3 Arrivals and departures: American Airlines Departures only: Air Berlin, Iberia, Japan Airlines
61 61 | ٦٤
onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps
mAdrId, spAIn ADOLFO SuÁREZ MADRID-BARAJAS AIRPORT
how do you transfer? Most domestic and European – ‘Schengen’ – country flights will operate from the main terminal, Terminal 4, while long-haul services and some European flights will depart from the satellite terminal, Terminal 4S. Follow signs to the underground train to transfer between the terminals. how long does it take to transfer? An underground high-speed train connects passengers between Terminal 4 and Terminal 4S, departing every three minutes and taking less than four minutes to complete the journey. oneworld carriers operating at madrid Barajas Airport terminal 4s Royal Jordanian, American Airlines, British Airways, Iberia, LAN TAM, Qatar Airways terminal 4 Air Berlin, Finnair, Iberia, TAM
London, Uk hEAThROW AIRPORT
Transfer d
Connecti
National Express b
Terminal 1 Terminal 5
Flight Connecti Center Road
Terminal 3
Walkway
Bus route
how do you transfer? For same terminal departures, follow the signs for flight connections and proceed to departure gates. For departures from other terminals, transfer by bus to the Flight Connection Centre and follow signs for departures. how long does it take to transfer between terminals? Buses operate every six to eight minutes from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 and take approximately ten minutes. how much time is required to transfer between London heathrow and gatwick? The National Express bus to Gatwick takes approximately 90 minutes. Buses operate every 15 minutes from 05:30-12:00 and every 30 minutes from 12:00-22:30
Terminal 4
Transfer desk Connection Bus
oneworld carriers operating at Terminal 1 London Terminal 5 heathrow Airport terminal 1 British Airways, TAM 3 Terminal terminal 3 Royal Jordanian, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Japan Airlines, Qantas, SriLankan Airlines terminal 4 Malaysia Airlines, Qatar Airways, terminal 5 British Airways, Iberia
6262 | ٦٣
National Express bus Flight Connection Center Road Walkway Bus route
Terminal 4
onboArd rj trAnsIt mAps
BAngkok, thAILAnd suvArnAbhumi Airport Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) Concourse C
Concourse E
Airline lounge
Transfer desk
International Terminal
how do you transfer? Domestic flights leave from concourses A and B. International flights leave from concourses C, D, E, F and G. All arrivals are at Level 2 and all departures leave from Level 4 of the main terminal building.
Check-in Customs/ immigration
Concourse D
Arrivals Departures
Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) how long does it take to transfer? To connect between the oneworld carriers (if Concourse C you are already checked through), should take approximately 20 minutes.
Road Concourse E
Airline lounges
Domestic International Terminal Terminal to connect between international concourses No need to go through immigration and customs Concourse A D Concourse formalities; check in 90 minutes before departure at the transit counter on Level 3. Bangkok, Thailand (BKK) to connect between the international and domestic concourses It should take approximately 60-90 minutes to clear immigration and customs before proceeding to Domestic domestic check-in counters on Level 4. Passengers Terminal connecting from international to domestic flights must collect their checked baggage and clear Concourse A passport control before proceeding to the domestic check-in area.
CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
Transfer desk
JL Japan Airlines Lounge
Check-in Customs/ immigration
QF/BA Qantas, Briti Airways Lounge
Concourse G
Arrivals
MH Malaysia Airline Lounge
Departures
Concourse C
Concourse E
Road
Airline lounges Transfer desk
oneworld carriers operatingInternational at Bangkok suvarnabhumi Airport Terminal oneworld carriers: Concourse e, F or g Royal Jordanian, Concourse D British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Concourse G Qatar Airways, S7, SriLankan Airlines
CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
Check-in
JL Japan Airlines Lounge
Customs/ immigration
QF/BA Qantas, British Airways Lounge MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge
Arrivals Departures Road CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
Domestic
Transfer desk
Terminal KuALA LuMPuR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT kUALA LUmpUr, mALAysIA JL Japan Airlines Lounge
oneworld carriers:
Concourse A
Connection Bus
Concourse G
National Express bus Flight Connection Center Road Walkway Bus route
Satellite A
QF/BA Qantas, British Airways Lounge
Airline
MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge
Check
Custom immig
Main Terminal
transferring within and between terminals oneworld A complimentary train service operates between the carriers: main terminal building and the satellite building.
Parkin
Transit Road
Customers transferring from an international flight to a domestic flight must clear immigration and customs.
MH Malaysia Lounge
CX Cathay P Lounge
Customers transferring from a domestic flight to an international flight can collect their boarding passes from the transfer desk. All customers must pass through immigration clearance. how long does it take to transfer between the main terminal and the satellite building? The complimentary Aerotrain train service departs every three to five minutes and the journey takes approximately two minutes. oneworld carriers operating at kuala Lumpur International Airport Royal Jordanian, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qatar Airways, SriLankan Airlines
Airline lounges Check-in
Satellite A
Customs/ immigration
Main Terminal
Parking
Satellite A Main Terminal
Transit System Road MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
Airline lounges Check-in Customs/ immigration Parking Transit System Road MH Malaysia Airlines Lounge
6363 | ٦٢
CX Cathay Pacific Lounge
ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS
n HELSINKI n OSLO
GLASGOW n
n ABERDEEN n EDINBURGH
MANCHESTER n
n ST PETERSBURG
n STOCKHOLM n GOTHENBURG
n COPENHAGEN
n NEWCASTLE
n HAMBURG
n KAZAN
n GDANSK
n HANNOVER n BERLIN n DÜSSELDORF n WARSAW COLOGNE n n FRANKFURT n NUREMBERG n OSLO BRUSSELS n n SAARBRÜCKEN KRAKÓW n KRAK KARLSRUHE n n STUTTGART PARIS n n MUNICH
n MOSCOW
AMSTERDAM n
n UFA
LONDON n
n KIEV
n ROSTOV
n VIENNA
n ZURICH
n BUCHAREST
GENEVA n
n ROME
n KRASNODAR
n ISTANBUL
n BARCELONA
n MADRID
n PALMA MALLORCA n ATHENS ALGIERS n
n TUNIS n LARNACA n TRIPOLI
n AMMAN
n MISRATA n BENGHAZI
n KHARTOUM
EUROPE & NORTH AFRICA Royal Jordanian destination
Codeshare destination
Local RJ Agents Bucharest
Cologne, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Gdansk, Gothenburg, Helsinki, Karlsruhe/Baden Baden, Kraków, Munich, Nuremberg, Saarbrücken, Stockholm, Stuttgart, Warsaw via Berlin Cologne, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Palma Mallorca via Munich Berlin, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Hannover, Nuremberg via Vienna Berlin via Frankfurt
Aberdeen, Copenhagen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Newcastle, Manchester, Oslo, Stockholm via London Heathrow
Kazan, Krasnodar, Rostov, St Petersburg, Ufa via Moscow
Amsterdam +31 23 555 5230
Munich +49 89 9759 1390
Accra +233 30 279 7485
Athens +30 210 9242 600
Nicosia +357 2 246 0044
Berlin +49 30 41014 222
Paris +33 1 42 65 99 91
Algiers +213 21 675621 +213 21 675622
Brussels +322 512 7070
Prague +420 261 2193 169
Dublin +353 1 663 3934
Rome +39 06 478 7055 +39 06 478 7057
Frankfurt +49 690 50941 +49 69 231 853 Geneva +41 22 817 4802 +41 22 817 4803 Kiev +380 93 231 9880 London +44 20 7878 6300 Moscow +7 495 933 7161
6464 | ٦١
Stockholm +46 8 555 691 42 Valletta +356 21 331 010 Vienna +43 1 513 3036 Zurich +41 43 816 4018 +41 43 816 4022
Benghazi +218 61 9093017 Casablanca +212 2 244 2525 Lagos +234 81 222 444 11 Nairobi +254 20 224 6619 Tripoli +218 21 444 1565 +218 21 444 2453 Tunis +216 71 351390
ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS
SEATTLE n
MINNEAPOLIS n OTTAWA n TORONTO n
SAN FRANCISCO n
LOS ANGELES n SANTA ANA n SAN DIEGO n
n MONTREAL
n DETROIT CHICAGO n SALT LAKE CITY n n BUFFALO INDIANAPOLIS n OMAHA n n BOSTON CLEVELAND n DENVER n n NEW YORK DAYTON n n PITTSBURGH KANSAS CITY n n COLUMBUS n PHILADELPHIA n WICHITA n BALTIMORE ST LOUIS n CINCINNATI n n LAS VEGAS nWASHINGTON LOUISVILLE n n RICHMOND n ALBUQUERQUE n TULSA n KNOXVILLE n RALEIGH NASHVILLE n OKLAHMOMA C n n PHOENIX CHARLOTTE n n MEMPHIS LITTLE ROCK n EL PASO n TUCSON n ATLANTA n DALLAS n AUSTIN n
n HOUSTON
n ORLANDO TAMPA n
n MIAMI
NORTH AMERICA Royal Jordanian destination
Codeshare destination
Local RJ Agents Albuquerque, Atlanta, Austin, Baltimore, Boston, Buffalo, Charlotte, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Columbus, Dallas, Dayton, Denver, El Paso, Houston, Indianapolis, Kansas City, Knoxville, Las Vegas, Little Rock, Los Angeles, Louisville, Memphis, Miami, Minneapolis, Nashville, New Orleans, New York - LaGuardia, Omaha, Orlando, Ottawa, Philadelphia, Phoenix, Pittsburgh, Raleigh, Richmond, St Louis, Salt Lake City, San Diego, San Francisco, Santa Ana, Seattle, Tampa, Toronto, Tucson, Tulsa, Washington, Wichita, via Chicago
Austin, Baltimore, Boston, Cleveland, Columbus, Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Montreal, Pittsburgh, Raleigh, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Tampa, Toronto, Washington (Dca), via New York
Phoenix via New York (JFK), Chicago (ORD) or Detroit (DTW)
Chicago +1 847 803 3700 Detroit +1 313 271 6663 Montreal +1 514 842 3300 New York +1 212 949 0050 +1 212 949 0060
Dallas via Detroit Boston, Dallas, Los Angeles via London Boston, Dallas, Miami via Paris Dallas, Miami via Madrid Flights to Detroit operate via Montreal in the wintertime
6565 | ٦٠
ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS
ALEPPO n
MOSUL n
n ERBIL n SULAYMANIYAH
BEIRUT n DAMASCUS n
n BAGHDAD TEL AVIV n
n AMMAN n NAJAF
CAIRO n BASRA n
AQABA n
n KUWAIT
DAMMAM n
n BAHRAIN n DOHA
MADINAH n
DUBAI n
RIYADH n ABU DHABI n MUSCAT n
JEDDAH n
KHARTOUM n
SANA'A n
ADEN n
MIDDLE EAST Royal Jordanian destination
Codeshare destination
Local RJ Agents Bahrain
Abu Dhabi +971 2 627 5084 Aden +967 2 244546
Muscat
Beirut
Aleppo +963 21 228 6207 +963 21 228 6208 Amman +962 6 510 0000 Aqaba +962 3 201 2403 Baghdad +964 79 0143 1478 +964 78 0928 3703 Bahrain +973 1 735 3333 Basra +964 78 0198 2285 Beirut +961 1 493321 +961 1 493480/1
6666 | ٥٩
Cairo +202 3305 2940 +202 3303 5537 +202 3344 3114 Damascus +963 11 543 5427 Dhahran +966 3 864 1231 Doha +974 435 1422 Dubai +971 4 316 6666 Erbil +964 75 0405 2299 Gaza +972 8 282 5403/13 / +970 8 282 5403/13 Jeddah +966 12 6613999 +966 12 6674243
Khartoum +249 1 8379 2846 +249 1 776 2743 / 4
Sharjah +971 6 568 4411 Sharm El-Sheikh
Madinah +966 14 8189645 +966 14 8189646 +966 14 8189647 Mosul +964 77 0652 3000 Muscat +968 2479 6680 +968 2470 5443 Ramallah +970 2 240 1919 Riyadh +966 11 218 0850/3/4/5/6 Sana’a +967 1 446063/6
+20 69 3 600 936 +20 69 3 600 190 Sulaymaniyah +964 5 3319 4236 Tel-Aviv-Yafo +972 74 750 6666 West Bank +972 2 240 5060
ONBOARD RJ ROUTE MAPS
HONG KONG n
n BANGKOK
n KUALA LUMPUR
ASIA Royal Jordanian destination
Codeshare destination
Local RJ Agents Kuala Lumpur
Bangkok +66 2 638 2960
via Bangkok
Colombo +941 1 230 1629 Ho Chi Minh +84 8 39302939 Hong Kong +852 2804 1203 Jakarta +62 21 451 3402 Kuala Lumpur +76 03 2148 7500 +76 03 2412 698 Malé +960 3327 631 +960 3327 632 Manila +632 52 2 4869 +632 52 2 2095 Mumbai +91 22 2204 0676
67 67 | ٥٨
Seoul +82 2 317 8834 +82 2 317 8780 Shanghai +86 21 5306 6060 Singapore +65 6338 8988 Sydney +61 1300 855 057 Taipei +886 2 2506 1388 Tokyo +813 5251 8673
o n b o a r d r j t r av e l t i p s
HealtH tips for your fligHt
Our travel experts give their top tips to make your flight as comfortable as possible
3
Keep the kids happy! RJ’s inflight entertainment
will keep little ones occupied, but bring their favourite soft toy, books or perhaps an iPad with games. Kids can find take off and landing uncomfortable on their ears, due to the change some sweets for them to enjoy
Stand up, stretch and walk
and help relieve the pressure.
around the cabin as much as possible. While sitting you can do exercises such as lifting your
4
stay hydrated The cabin can be
knees towards your chest, and
dehydrating due to the air
rolling your ankles. This will help
pressure and altitude. Keep
to avoid developing DVT (deep
drinking fluids; water is best
vein thrombosis) in your legs.
but avoid caffeine and alcohol
2
that can dehydrate you further. Wear loose clothing You’ll find it far more
comfortable on your flight to wear light-fitting clothes made
5
avoid jet lag A long haul flight across
several time zones can lead
from natural fabrics, rather
to jet lag. Try to get your mind
than anything too confining, for
adjusted to your destination’s
example tight jeans. Also carry
time by changing your watch to
light layers instead of anything
the appropriate time as soon as
too bulky.
you get on board your flight. 68 | ٥٧
Photo courtesy of Royal Jordanian
1
in cabin pressure, so bring Keep moving!
O N B O A R D R J I N F L I G H T E N T E R TA I N M E N T
SHOWING ONBOARD For fortysomething Josh Srebnick (the versatile Ben Stiller) and Cornelia (British-born Naomi Watts), life is comfortable, childless and in a rut. Living in New York’s arty Brooklyn, Josh is an uptight documentary filmmaker, past his peak and a now lecturer at university; Cornelia is the daughter of a successful film producer. Life continues in its cosy way, but when they meet the free-spirited twentysomethings Jamie (Adam Driver), a wannabe filmmaker, and Darby (Amanda Seyfried), their lives are turned upside down. The Srebnicks soon ditch their 40s baby-centred pals and are sucked into their new friends’ left-field lives of spontaneity. Josh apes Jamie’s love of wearing a fedora and whizzing on a skateboard; Cornelia goes to cool hip-hop dance classes and trance sessions. When Jamie’s shameless attempts to connect with Cornelia’s father (Charles Grodin) come to light, Josh suspects that the entire friendship is a sham, which leads to a messy feud.
While We’re Young
Writer and director Noah Baumbach’s acerbic comedy of manners is an observant portrayal of the generation gap and the desire for youth. In While We’re Young, he also carries the mantle of Woody Allen’s ability to capture middle-class American angst.
THE WONDERS OF ANIMALS: PENGUINS “The Emperor is the largest species of penguins, weighing in at 38kg, a third of which is blubber,” explains presenter Chris Packham. It’s probably the main reason why these Arctic-dwelling creatures look like comical, waddling toys, with stubby legs and tiny wings. Yet this bulk of blubber requires hard work; they need to dive deep and wide to hunt for food, and they can hold their breath for up to 20 minutes. This is the first episode in the BBC wildlife series which uses groundbreaking science, where British naturalist Packham analyses how the penguin’s body shape affects its life, including how it makes a stunning athletic dive to return on to dry land.
6969 | ٥٦
o n b o a r d r j p a s s e n g e r i n f o r m at i o n
your baggage allowance rJ’s new baggage allowance policy, introduced in november 2014, is based on the number and weight of bags checked in, rather than just the weight. Below is a handy chart to show what you can check in and take on board. next time you fly out of amman, why not make the most of rJ’s City Terminal at 7th Circle, where you can pre-check your luggage and get your boarding pass up to 24 hours before your departure.
checked Baggage allowance north america & egypt*
30kg 7kg
30kg 7kg
all other rJ destinations
30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg Class: 7kg 30kg 7kg Crown
32kg
32kg
30kg + 7kg 23kg
23kg
Crown Class:
32kg + 32kg 32kg 32kg EConomy Class: 23kg 23kg 23kg + 23kg
30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg 30kg 7kg
+
30kg 7kg
32kg 32kg 23kg 23kg
EConomy Class:
make sure the size of each bag is within the permitted dimensions: the sum of the length, width and height of each piece must be less than 158cm. Infants can check in one item of baggage up to 23kg.
32kg 30kg 7kg
32kg 30kg 7kg
23kg
23kg 32kg
Infants can check in one piece of 32kg baggage up to a 10kg.
23kg *amman/Cairo and Cairo/amman routes only
+ +
32kg 32kg 23kg 23kg
23kg
carrY-on Baggage allowance all rJ destinations Crown Class:
30kg 7kg 30+ kg 7kg
EConomy Class:
30kg 7kg
32kg
Each briefcase or handbag should be a maximum size of 23 x 36 x 56cm
23kg
For a more overview23 on rJ’s 23comprehensive kg kg luggage policy, please visit rj.com or call +962 6 510 0000.
32kg
32kg
If your bag is larger or heavier than this, it will have to be taken into the hold, and extra charges will apply.
70 70 | ٥٥
30kg 7kg
30kg 7kg 30+ kg 7kg
32kg
32kg
32kg
23kg
23kg
23kg
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