BEACH BARS / PACK A BAG AND LET’S HEAD TO OUR FAVORITE BEACH BARS
46
ΚΟΚΤΈΙΛ ΤΟΥ ΦΈΤΙΝΟΥ ΚΑΛΟΚΑΙΡΙΟΥ / THIS SUMMER’S COCKTAILS
MIXOLOGISTS / WE SAMPLE REFRESHING COMBINATIONS MADE BY THREE EXPERIENCED MIXOLOGISTS
78 FAMOUS DISH
/ A JOURNEY OF TASTE
66 XIOΣ / CHIOS
ART LOVERS
/ ART LOVERS FLOCK TO VESSA, A BEAUTIFUL CASTLE VILLAGE KNOWN FOR PRODUCING OF MASTIC
74 A TOUCH OF LUX
/
84 ΛΥΩΝ / LYON
ΠΟΛΗ ΜΕ ΣΤΙΛ... / A CITY WITH STYLE...
96
/ LENA PAPALIGOURA ON BEING A WOMAN
108
/ PIRAEUS
/ DISCOVER SCENIC SPOTS IN A CITY THAT FEELS LIKE AN ISLAND
124 CRAZY ENGLISH SUMMER!
/ TAKING A DIFFERENT KIND OF WALK ALONG LONDON’S THAMES
128
/ NAXOS
/ EXPLORING CHARMING CYCLADIC VILLAGES
142
/ MICHAIL BLETSAS
/ INSIGHTS FROM THE HEAD OF GREECE’S NATIONAL CYBER SECURITY AUTHORITY
We are changing a lot to support even more.
152
152
ΜΥΚΟΝΟΣ / MYKONOS
ΣΤΗΝ ΗΣΥΧΗ ΠΛΕΥΡΆ ΤΟΥ
ΚΟΣΜΟΠΟΛΙΤΙΚΟΥ ΝΗΣΙΟΥ / EXPERIENCE THE QUIET SIDE OF THIS COSMOPOLITAN ISLAND
176 TO ΠΑΡΙΣΙ ΤΗΣ ΔΙΑΝΟΗΣΗΣ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΣ ΓΈΥΣΗΣ / PARIS: THE CITY OF INTELLECT AND TASTE
196 CHARLES LLOYD
/ MY CONNECTION WITH GREECE IS MYSTICAL
MAGAZINE / THE WORLDRENOWNED SAXOPHONIST TALKS TO FLY MAGAZINE
206
216 FASHION
EDITORIAL
SUMMER REFLECTIONS
/ SUMMER REFLECTIONS
AT THE MOST IDYLLIC
LOCATION ON THE ATTICA RIVIERA
206
ΠΟΔΗΛΑΤΟ! / EXPLORE THE GREEK ISLANDS BY BIKE! ΤΕΣΣΕΡΙΣ BIKE FRIENDLY
/ DISCOVER FOUR BIKEFRIENDLY DESTINATIONS FOR COSTEFFECTIVE, SPORTY, ADVENTUROUS, AND «GREEN» HOLIDAYS
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
Feel the Summer Breeze!
Summer... Peace at last! Time to pause, change scenes, and rest. In this issue, we “unplug” and enjoy the Greek sun on islands, in villages, and even in the city - both within and beyond borders.
We travel to the unique Naxos and stroll through its mountain villages, where tradition meets mezedes (appetizers) and art. We discover a different side of Mykonos, where peace and quiet prevail. We sample cocktails recommended by three experienced mixologists and spend the day at our favorite beach bars, from Attica to Larnaca.
Additionally, we meet the distinguished saxophonist, Charles Lloyd; the head of the National Cybersecurity Authority in Greece, Michail Bletsas; and two of our favorite Greek actors, Lena Papaligoura and Emilios Chilakis.
We fly to London to explore the most disruptive exhibition of the year at the Tate Modern, featuring the life of Yoko Ono. We also enjoy brunch on the Thames; get to know the intellectual and culinary experiences of Paris; and become fascinated by Lyon, a unique city nestled between the rivers of France.
It doesn’t matter if it’s two days, two weeks, or two months... Just take the right break. Let’s relax, soak up energy from different places, from sand, stone, and sea, and take our eyes away from any type of screen.
Let’s take a moment to unwind and gaze into the horizon... Have a great summer! Enjoy your relaxation!
Topguide
Beach Bars
TO CHILL OUT!
It’s that time of the summer, that unique moment when you stretch out on a sunbed at the beach bar and indulge in a little luxury, a little relaxation... Join us on golden sand beaches with music, refreshing cocktails, boho or minimal modern decor, and an enviable range of culinary options while overlooking the sea.
ADA DALIAKA | NATASA MASTORAKOU | PANTELIS GATOS
Topguide BEACH BARS
Bolivar Beach Bar
Bolivar,
one of the most exotic beach bars in Attica, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year with unique parties and DJ sets that have been ongoing since spring, right by the sea. With a revamped menu (try the burger and the quinoa salad), Bolivar combines a tropical setting with golden sand and turquoise waters, offering its own cocktail list for moments of relaxation with views of the Saronic Gulf.
Bolivar Beach Bar, Poseidonos Avenue, Alimos, Athens
Topguide BEACH BARS
Castus Beach Bar
Tied beams and sails create a landscape free of cars and buildings. This informal yet luxurious setting is what you’ll find at "Castus Beach Bar" in Anavyssos. Catering to all bathers, it provides specialized lunch menu options, tailor-made cocktails, and light dishes, ensuring that the fun continues until dusk.
Castus Beach Bar,
Castus Beach Bar, 50km Athens-Sounio Avenue, Anavyssos
Nakal State of Mind
Nakal State of Mind,
Goin the morning and stay until late at night. Savor the slow-cooked pancetta in Japanese Tonkatsu sauce with sautéed carrots and the Tempura prawns. Luxurious yet simple, this bar-restaurant located where the old "Kalua" club once stood (a nostalgic spot for those who danced the night away there back in the day) also features a swimming pool with reservable sunbeds and its own beach. Its unique advantage lies in the shadows cast by cactus and palm trees. If you're a fan of ethnic cuisine, this beach bar is the ideal choice.
Nakal state of mind, 100 Avlakiou Avenue, Porto Rafti
Topguide BEACH BARS
Krabo Beach
CKrabo
Coconut Life On a Beach
Coconut Life On a Beach, Λεωφ.
asual and family-friendly, Krabo Beach has become a trendy spot in recent years. Situated in a bay in Kavouri at Vouliagmeni, it offers a sense of isolation and an island vibe, thanks to the verdant hill that meets the sea just a few kilometers from the center of Athens. It features comfortable sunbeds, exquisitely presented Greek local dishes, cocktails, and wine.
Krabo Beach, Thespidos, Vouliagmeni
Renovated as a multipurpose venue for receptions and relaxation, Coconut Life on a Beach is located on the "beach of the winds", where surfers ride the waves along the famous Schinia beach of Marathon in North-Eastern Attica. You can reserve a sunbed of your choice and enjoy the sun, cold beer, and golden sand.
Coconut Life On a Beach, 144 Posidonos Avenue, Marathonas
Topguide BEACH BARS
40forty
Atimeless classic on the Athenian Riviera, 40Forty is a popular choice for parties, adding glamour to the Asteras Vouliagmeni seaside complex with its unique sunset views. Welcoming at any time of day, it stands out for its elegance and comfort, accompanied by high cuisine dishes. It’s recommended for those who want to socialize or combine business and pleasure in the Greek capital.
40forty, 40 Apollonos Street, Vouliagmeni
Topguide BEACH BARS
Principote
Stone, wood, and ropes dominate the decor at the stunning beach bar "Principote" in Panormos, Mykonos. Established in 2016, it is influenced by Cycladic architecture and fully integrates into the island’s natural environment. The ropes, adorned with decorative knots, refer to the maritime tradition of the Cyclades. Guests can enjoy top notch services and elaborate dishes based on the Mediterranean diet and local products, combined with flavors from around the world.
Principote, Panormos Beach, Mykonos
Principote,
Topguide BEACH BARS
N USA Beach Bar
Are you searching for a beach bar in Larnaca to relax and swim during the day or a seaside spot to enjoy your cocktail? "NUSA" is the answer to both. With eye-catching wooden construction and fabrics, delicious dishes, and the beautiful blue sea right in front of you, what more could you need? We don't think anything else.
NUSA Beach Bar, 11 Tasou Mitsopoulou, Larnaca, Cyprus
Topguide BEACH BARS
Aqua Loca Beach Bar,
Aqua Loca Beach Bar
The beauties of Milos are endless... While you explore, don't forget to stop at "Aqua Loca Beach Bar" on Paleochori Beach. Beachside lounge chairs, poufs, and straw umbrellas create the perfect atmosphere for enjoying an iced coffee, refreshing juices, and signature cocktails from award-winning bartenders.
Aqua Loca Beach Bar, Paleochori, Milos
Topguide BEACH BARS
K alamia All Day Beach Bar
Located just a few meters from the center of Sitia, "Kalamia All Day Beach Bar" will transport you to exotic destinations. With thoughtfully designed decor, delicacies for all hours of the day, and friendly staff embodying the reputation of Cretan hospitality, this is the place to be.
Kalamia All Day Beach Bar, Καραμανλή 35,
Kalamia All Day Beach Bar, 35 Karamanli Street, Sitia, Crete
OKEEP CALM AND DRINK... COCΚTAILS!
BY NATASA MASTORAKOU
PHOTOS DIMITRIOS KLEANTHOUS
BAR MANAGERS
MIXOLOGISTS
/ WE MEET THE BEST BAR MANAGERS AND MIXOLOGISTS IN ATHENS AND TRY THIS SUMMER’S MOST SPECIAL COCKTAILS
James Bond preferred his Martini, always "shaken, not stirred". Ernest Hemingway opted for the Mojito, Truman Capote was a fan of the Screwdriver, and Carrie Bradshaw introduced us to the Cosmopolitan. For years, cocktails have dominated the nightlife in Athens, with dozens of shakers crafting drinks every night in the capital’s bars. Whether you prefer classic options or spicier mixtures, there’s sure to be a cocktail that perfectly suits your personality. If you haven’t decided which will be your favorite this summer, bartenders from three different types of bars in Athens are here to help you.
From the alternative "Felicita" on Megalou Vasileiou Street in the Rouf neighborhood, to the classic "Barreldier" on Voulis Street near Syntagma Square, and then a few streets down to the bar of the new hotel "The Dolli". So, read, choose, and… enjoy!
Sprezzatura
Amaro
Amaro
Ioannina wine
Mango scrapings, vinegar, and sugar
Mint and dried berries for decoration
Amarcord
Tonic
Wine
Elderflower
Elderflower liqueur
Tonic syrup and kumquat
Felicita Athens | Μάριος
/ Marios Gore
Right after work and always before eating, Italians have a firm habit of... aperitivo. Lowalcohol drinks that whet your appetite and relax you. This is also the philosophy of "Felicita Athens" in Rouf: a relaxed mood, a cozy environment, classic cocktails with a twist, and above all, zero waste (at "Felicita," nothing goes to waste). The bar manager Marios Iliopoulos suggested five summer cocktails (of his own recipes), and Marios Gore made them just for us.
Coconut Negroni
Rum
Vermouth
Bitter with coconut aroma
Gin Basil Smash
Gin
Mastika (or mastiha)
Beer and basil syrup
Lemon
Major Tom
Elderflower
Bitter aperitif
Bitter
Grapefruit Lime
Soda
Barreldier |
Mario Basso
vermouth, no cocktail».
1
Bourbon
Sweet Vermouth from "Barreldier" Aromatic Bitter from "Barreldier" Manhattan
Bourbon
"No
vermouth, no cocktail.»
This is the motto of owner and bartender Mario Basso, who is behind the bar at "Barreldier". It’s impossible not to have come across this place while walking or shopping in Syntagma after work or before a night out. For 10 years, Mario has been "hosting" his friends in an intimate space with classic decoration, offering exactly what you’d expect: classic cocktails, many of them with aged vermouths, focusing, as he says, on substance rather than appearance.
Bollywood
Vodka Handmade applesauce
Mandarin liqueur
Lemongrass
Lime
Saffron
Negroni
Bitter aperitif
Bitter
Sweet Vermouth from "Barreldier"
Topguide
The Dolli |
/ Thodoris Ladogiannis
ρογλου». Βόλτες ανάμεσα στα υφάσματα, αγορές με τη μαμά
Those of us who grew up in Athens have associated the Kallimasiotis Mansion with the headquarters of the "Hytiroglou" retail stores. Walks among the fabrics, shopping with mom, and coffee in the city center. The Grecotel Group took this wonderful 1920s building and turned it into a hotel with high-ceilinged rooms, artwork (even Picasso) and a delightful rooftop garden bar where Thodoris Ladogiannis will be crafting this summer's cocktails for us.
Name
Greek gin with basil and tomato
Vermouth 3 drops of truffle oil
Evening Walker
Campari
Greek gin Campari Vermouth with peppers from Florina White wine of the Moschofilero variety Metsovone cheese Νo
The Dolli
Mastika (or mastiha)
Forest fruits
Yuzu
Lime
White chocolate and yuzu
foam
Greek gin
Oregano syrup
Tonic with basil and cucumber
Asparagus for decoration
The Blue Rider art collective, created in Munich in 1911, is on show at Tate Modern in London until October 20. The informal association of artists, with Wassily Kandinsky in the lead, forged a new language and laid the foundations for expressionism. Radical experimentation in form, color, and sound transcended realistic representation and created vibrant works based on freedom.
Bankside, SE1
Bankside, SE1 9TG London
Theresienstraße
Munich
They were pop stars, geniuses, great artists and they framed revolutionary ideals. Andy Warhol and Keith Haring were close friends and partners, and we can admire their work for the first time in a single exhibition at the Brandhorst Museum in Munich. Through 120 works as well as archival material we can discover their vision which is summed up in the message: "Art should be for everyone". The exhibition will run until January 26, 2025.
Theresienstraße 35a, 80333 Munich
Esplanade Valéry Giscard d'Estaing, 75007
The "Impression, Soleil Levant" (1872) painting by Claude Monet is the main attraction of the Impressionist exhibition presented in Paris not only because he was the one who gave his name to one of the most important trends in art but also because it was one of the most distinctive paintings of the historical exhibition in 1874.
After 150 years, most of the works from the first iconic Impressionist exhibition reunites at the Musée d'Orsay and the public will have the opportunity to admire the first works of artists that left a permanent mark on the history of art such as Paul Cézanne, Edgar Degas, Berthe Morisot and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. The exhibition will run until July 14, 2024.
Two renovated rooms have opened to the public at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture on Koumpari Street. Enriched with new exhibits, rooms 33-36 tell the story of modern Greece from the years just before the Greek Revolution to the Second World War.
CONCERT
Ladies and gentlemen, Miss Taylor Swift
This could be one of the biggest social experiments in recent years. In just about two years, she managed to transform from a very talented singer to the biggest name on the world music scene. Her influence is so far-reaching that it can even determine the outcome of the US elections.
Yes, we're talking about Taylor Swift, the singer that in the last two years managed to carry out the highest-grossing concert tour of all time, become a slogan, a very successful documentary, make history at the Grammys and see her millions of fans call themselves "Swifties". All while she is only 34 years old.
Almost 15 months since the start of the "Eras Tour" she has broken countless records and continues to make history. The digits in her bank account are constantly increasing along with the revenue of the businesses in the cities where she performs.
The University of Melbourne organized a scientific conference to analyze the Swift phenomenon, while even Uber announced that it is changing its policy and increasing its vehicles depending on the stops of her tour.
What Taylor Swift has done in recent years will be studied by sociologists for many years in order to find out what made her take off. Others, who are lucky, can find out on July 24 at the San Siro Stadium in Milan.
ΣΥΝΆΥΛΙΆ / CONCERT
Every breath you take…
Sting loves Greece and Greece loves Sting. The British musician will once again be at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus this year on July 5 and 6, at the venue he chose to celebrate his 70th birthday in 2021. The singer, composer, lyricist, actor, writer and activist first came to our country with the Police in 1980, but a lot has changed since then. He left the band just when it was at its peak, but all his future choices justified his decision. Eleven Grammy Awards, two Brits, a Golden Globe, an Emmy, four Oscar nominations, a TONY nomination and over 100 million total record sales prove it.
you take»;
Gordon Matthew Thomas Sumner
Young Gordon Matthew Thomas Sumner from Newcastle never forgot his roots and often sings about the shipyards and the working class. The environmental protection organization "Rainforest Foundation Fund" he founded and his attitude to life make him one of the most beloved artists around the world. And of course, his unsurpassed music. Are you ready to listen to "Every breath you take"?
Topguide WHAT’S ON
PBurkina Faso with love
Dance beyond borders, political action through movement, artistic action based on African culture. Serge Aimé Coulibaly and his team explore alternative ways of living together that bridge the gap between cultures and aim to captivate us.
June 12 - 13, Piraeus 260
lutus will find his sight again this summer at the Epidaurus theater under the direction of Yiannis Kakleas. Aristophanes’ final comedy satirizes people and situations like non other through the main char acter, but also through Chremylos, who decides to bring justice to the world again. July 19 and 20, Ancient Theater of Epidaurus ΠΕΛ0ΠΟΝΝΉΣΟΣ
ATHENS
Massive Attack
Cutting loose with Massive Attack!
T he group that pioneered the trip-hop sound and undoubtedly defined a large part of the 90s, Massive Attack, is returning to Athens after many years. With 35 years since their debut, they aim to prove that they can still break stereotypes. Known as the group that excels in delivering explosive live performances, they are ready to mesmerize audiences at this year's Release Athens event.
July 17, Plateia Nerou
«The Book of Mormon»
(postcolonization)
Dionysis Savvopoulos: Our Own Metapolitefsi
Dionysis Savvopoulos - aka Nionios - will be at the Herodion but this time as the host. The most beloved storyteller of Greek music will tell us stories about the 50 years since the restoration of Democracy. Only this time they will be completely real.
July 8 and 9, Herodion Theatre
"The Book of Mormon" and laugh your heart out
The Prince of Wales Θέατρο, W1D 6AS, Λονδίνο
leven years, millions of viewers. The legendary musical "The Book of Mormon" is shaking up the London theater scene and captivating audiences. The laugh-out-loud adventures of two mismatched missionaries have been praised for their bold humor and rousing songs that accompany them.
The Prince of Wales Theatre, W1D 6AS, London
VESSA: THE MASTIC VILLAGE FILLED WITH ART BY ADA DALIAKA
/ WE DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL MASTIC VILLAGE OF VESSA ON CHIOS AND UNCOVER ITS RICH HISTORY THROUGH THE EVENTS ORGANIZED BY DEO, WHERE INTERNATIONALLY RECOGNIZED ARTISTS COLLABORATE
PHOTO: NELO MECI
/ Art lovers flock to Chios
Vessa, a beautiful castle village of Chios known for its cultivation of mastic, stands as a classic example of a medieval settlement in southern Chios and serves as an ideal destination for leisurely walks. This summer, visitors can explore Vessa and its history through DEO's events. As the first contemporary art organization on the island, DEO invites guests to experience "My Dreams Shattered on Your Walls", a large-scale outdoor exhibition held in the village's public spaces. The exhibition runs from July 6 to September 8 and features a diverse program including hikes, literary workshops, music, guided tours, and more. Οι
Imagine taking a stroll through Vessa and encountering contemporary art at every turn. The "My Dreams Shattered on Your Walls" exhibition features works by eight internationally renowned artists from Greece, Cyprus, Turkey, and Rwanda. These artists showcase both commissioned pieces and existing works in an immersive outdoor exhibition set against the backdrop of Vessa's winding alleyways. The participating artists are: Ahmet Doğu Ipek, Andreas Lolis, Malvina Panagiotidis, Georgia Sagri, Francis Offman, Sokratis Sokratous, Hale Tenger, and Antrea Tzourovits.
Explore the ancient defense tower and its labyrinthine alleys, once a refuge in Vessa from historical invaders. Under the direction of Akis Kokkinos, the artists contrast their visual narratives against the medieval architecture and ambiance of the village. This multimedia poetic narrative unfolds as a labyrinth, connecting the serenity of the village with themes of healing and resilience.
By weaving together the stillness of Vessa with the raw emotions often associated with personal struggles, these visual artists guide visitors through paths of contemplation and renewal.
IN
Among the top collectible holiday, sea, and summer posters is John Van Hamersveld's "Endless Summer". This iconic poster was the inspiration for the groundbreaking surf film made by filmmaker and narrator Bruce Brown. The film follows two surfers on a trip around the world, and upon its release it inspired many surfers to travel abroad, leading to the emergence of surf and travel culture. Its current value is estimated between 1,000 and 2,500 euros, and the last time it appeared at an art auction was in 2023 at Sotheby's.
ATouchofLux
A SUMMER FOR COLLECTORS
Relax…
Bonhams
Roger Broders (1883-1953),
The vintage posters of the legendary Italian fashion illustrator René Gruau (1909-2004) are indispensable pieces for art lovers and collectors. His summer-themed "Relax" series, printed in Paris in the 1960s, is particularly notable and valued at over 1,200 euros. These works were auctioned through Bonhams in 2022.
The PanAm posters by several anonymous visual artists are also highly sought after. Additionally, the lithographs of Roger Broders (1883-1953), such as those depicting Marseilles, have attracted significant attention. One of these lithographs exceeded 8,000 euros at a Christie's auction.
GATOS TRAVELS AND TASTES
F L ava!
ava from...
Assurreal as the title may seem, the story behind this very popular summer dish, fava, is equally remarkable. The first mention of the fava bean appears in a tragedy by Aeschylus between the 6th and 5th centuries BC, but its history dates back even further... 3,000 years ago!
The variety of yellow fava originates from the Lathyrus clymenum L, which emerged suddenly after the eruption of the Santorini volcano.
Experts describe it as a remarkably resilient plant that clings to the earth’s surface, withstanding the powerful winds that sweep across Santorini and the surrounding islands.
One of the notable features of Lathyrus is its ability to absorb seawater carried by the winds, enhancing the benefits of its ingredients for human health.
In the kitchen
Archaeologists determined from the remains of the Lathyrus seeds unearthed during excavations that they had been harvested, ground, and subsequently cooked. The harvested Lathyrus seeds are stored in volcanic rocks, known as underground repositories or "canaves", which provide the ideal environment for the seeds to mature before the milling process.
Even today, the preparation of fava beans remains simple. After soaking in water for at least two to three hours, they are ready for boiling, along with chopped onion and bay leaf. Once pureed, they are blended into a velvety pulp and served with fresh lemon juice and freshly cut onion rings. In another version, fava beans are served with caramelized onions. In yet another, they are paired with octopus tentacles. And in another variation, they are accompanied by capers... Culinary inspirations for this popular Greek summer dish, born from volcanic lava, know no bounds!
Embark on a Sea Journey with
Int ro duc in g the n ew μ . Art isan Wa ter a fusion o f un iqueness , mo dern it y, and min imal ism .
A G ree k-i ns pi re d m as te rpi e ce, rep re s enting a n ew p rodu ct c a teg o r y, e nh an ce s ya c ht s pa ce s wit h it s a e st h e ti c c h ar m and in he ren t va lue .
Mas ter ly un iqu e a n d pu re , w ith hig h qu a lity na t u ra l in g redien ts a n d c ha ra c te r istics
S u s t ai n ability is a t t he co re o f our e t ho s . Bo tt l e d
s t raigh t f ro m t he sou rce, wi t hou t a ny p ro ce ss in g ,
i n a 100 % re c yc l a ble pac ka g ing , wit h exce p t ion a l
b e n e fit s We priori t ize e nvi ron m e n tally f r ie n dl y
p rac t i ce s every s tep o f th e wa y. B o ttled for th e
fi r s t tim e in a n a l u min u m sle e k ca n , i t i s t h e fir s t
G ree k s us t ainabl e wa te r.
We inn ovate. We p ro tect. We res pect .
Still.
Sparkling. Sparkling.
Sparkling + Lemon.
Discovering
ΛΥΏΝ | LYΟN
A
city with...
style
Lyonnaise specialties, such as the turquoise-coated sweet Coussin de Lyon and Byzantine art, along with the rich aromas from the vineyards of the Beaujolais region, create a compelling reason to visit this unique French city, nestled between two rivers
BY ADA DALIAKA
Discovering
On the banks of the Rhône and Saône rivers, which run through Lyon, the Lyonnais enjoy a glass of wine before visiting one of the city’s countless restaurants and rooftop bars on sunny summer days. In the evening, as the sun sets, a bike ride through the verdant zoo of “Parc de la Tête d’Or”, France’s largest urban park, rewards locals and tourists alike, with giraffes’ tall necks poking out as if to greet you.
ΣΤΟΝ
ΖΩΟΛΟΓΙΚΟ KHΠO TOY «PARC DE LA TÊTE D’OR» ΘΑ
ΣΑΣ ΥΠΟΔΕΧΤΟΥΝ ΟΙ ΚΑΜΗΛΟ ΠΑΡΔ Α ΛΕΙΣ / GIRAFFES WILL WELCOME YOU AT THE "PARC DE LA TÊTE D'OR" ZOO
From the green hill of the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière, locals and visitors admire the elegance of this historic French city, which has gracefully spread across this blessed corner of the earth from Roman times to the present day.
Lyon, after all, is the “city of light”. An eternal daughter who loves to become beautiful all lit up every December at the Fête des Lumières (Festival of Lights), her traditional celebration, with historic buildings glowing with candlelight. She also revels in life as the “gastronomy capital” of France, where bon vivants enjoy sophisticated French culture. The invention of cinema by the Lumière brothers here in Lyon is a testament to the city’s long-standing mastery of captivating both image and storytelling. Lyon has been telling centuries-old stories from 43 BC, the year of its foundation, to the present day.
Built in the southeast of France, Lyon combines three advantages: cultural heritage, thriving nature, and excellent cuisine. If you want to experience all of this, three to four days are enough to see its most beautiful spots. At the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière, you will be impressed by its Byzantine interior decoration, with turquoise and gold mosaics that shine in the light, as well as the golden statue of “Our Lady” in the bell tower.
NIGHT VIEW OF THE CITY OF LYON NEAR THE FOURVIÈRE BASILICA AND THE SAÔNE RIVER WHICH HAS GRACEFULLY SPREAD ACROSS THIS BLESSED CORNER OF THE EARTH FROM ROMAN TIMES TO THE PRESENT DAY
/ BUILDINGS WITH HISTORY AND COLOR
Hidden passages
λευκά τραπεζομάντιλα. Τα αυθεντικά λυωνέζι-
(gateau de volaille),
(boudin noir),
(coq au vin),
Nantua (quenelle de brochet).
Descending the many steps to the Old Town, you’ll find parks and neighborhoods waiting for you in the Medieval Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Explore cobbled streets and the maze of famous hidden passages (traboules) between buildings and courtyards. Along the way, you’ll be tempted by the “buttery” aroma of patisseries. Taste the local pink praline tart, a Lyonnais specialty, the turquoise Coussin de Lyon, and on weekends, seek out the salted caramel crepe at the flea market as you gaze at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist from the adjacent fountain. In these streets, you will find many bouchons, the small restaurants of Lyon with their red and white tablecloths. Authentic Lyonnais dishes include chicken liver tart (gateau de volaille), hot apple sausage (boudin noir), pot roast (pot au feu), rooster in wine (coq au vin), and fluffy fish dumpling baked in a creamy Nantua sauce (quenelle de brochet). Many of the wines that accompany these dishes come from the vineyards of the Beaujolais region. If wine appeals to you, don’t miss a cheese platter for dessert or the French meringue floating in silky cream (île flottante). Lyon is the birthplace of legendary French chef Paul Bocuse, one of the fathers of nouvelle cuisine, and boasts 29 Michelin-starred restaurants. The Michelin family was joined this year by “L’Atelier Des Augustins” with ideas by chef Nicolas Guilloton and “Burgundy by Matthieu” by chef Matthieu Girardon. Don’t miss a morning stroll through the Saint-Antoine market to the sounds of the violin, or enjoy a refreshing Bateaux Lyonnais cruise. At the Lumière Museum, you can learn all about the cinema of the Lumière brothers. In the neighborhood of CroixRousse, once the center of silk and weaving on the city’s second
(SAINT JEAN BAPTISTE) / THE CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST (SAINT JEAN BAPTISTE) IN LYON.
«BURGUNDY BY MATTHIEU» «L’ ATELIER DES AUGUSTINS»
/ THE BANKS OF THE RHÔNE RIVER
Discovering
18ου και
του 19ου αιώνα. Αν έχετε χρόνο, βάλτε στο πρόγραμμά σας μια επίσκεψη στην
Όπερα και το υπερσύγχρονο Musée des Confluences, το Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο, το Ρωμαϊκό Θέατρο και το Ωδείο. Αποζητάτε
hill, you can mingle with students in bars and cafes. At the impressive Place des Terreaux, explore the Bartholdi fountain and the Museum of Fine Arts, situated on the “island” formed between the city’s rivers, with its 18th and 19th-century buildings. If you have time, plan a visit to the Opera and the state-of-the-art Musée des Confluences, the Archaeological Museum, the Roman Theater, and the Conservatory. Are you looking for gastronomy, history, and culture for your summer? Lyon is an ideal destination. After 2,000 years of life, this modern city has not lost its beauty and remains a high-value cultural jewel.
«L'ACTEUR»BOUCHON LYONNAIS
«BURGUNDY BY MATTHIEU»
«L' ATELIER DES AUGUSTINS»
POLIS HAMMAM – POLIS LOUTRON
THE ULTIMATE DESTINATION FOR BODY AND SOUL
THE OPTIMAL OPTION FOR THOSE SEEKING TO EXPERIENCE THE RELAXATION AND DETOXIFICATION TECHNIQUES PRACTICED BY THE ANCIENT GREEKS
Summer
isn't complete without moments of wellness and relaxation. So, in this issue, we are recommending the Polis Hammam - Polis Loutron spaces in Thessaloniki, Athens and Piraeus, where one can have a unique experience of high-level services, such as hammam rituals, ritual massages, treatments for the caring and antiaging of the face and body, spa treatments etc.
Tripadvisor Traveler’s Choice Awards 2023.
Through special beauty and rejuvenation packages, visitors not only alleviate pain, nerves, insomnia, headaches, breathing problems, etc., but can also choose the services they are looking for according to their needs and budget, or even offer a precious gift of mysticism and relaxation for the mind, body and soul to their loved ones.
The spaces of Polis Hammam - Polis Loutron are ideal to visit throughout the year and also suitable for events such as bachelor parties, celebrating anniversaries, birthdays, etc.
They continue to receive top awards, accolades and excellent reviews from their Greek and international guests and have been placed at the top of the list of wellness spaces by tourists in Europe having received the Tripadvisor Traveler’s Choice Award 2023 for another year.
www.polis-hammam.gr
PAPALIGOURA
BEING A WOMAN
The beloved Greek actress is photographed at the Veakio Theater and talks to FLY Magazine about the compelling play she is starring in this summer
/ BY
NATASA MASTORAKOU
I observe Lena Papaligoura ascend the steps to the Veakio Theater in Piraeus. She smiles at me and then turns her gaze and stares at the sea. Here, she appears utterly at home: In a theater and on stage.
She was born for this, I think to myself…
A few minutes earlier, she greeted me with the same warmth she has shown throughout our years of acquaintance. From the days of her theater performances for small audiences to the present, where she fills the renowned theater of Epidaurus, Lena maintains her clear-eyed look and sweetness towards her colleagues. She consistently delivers her best, whether it’s on stage or during a simple photoshoot under the sun.
From her beginnings at the “Karolos Koon” Art Theater to her television hits, and now with her legendary portrayal in “Katerina”, Lena has remained the same smiling girl with a captivating gaze.
Raised in a political family, daughter of former Minister of Justice Anastasios Papaligouras and Zaira Ralli, and granddaughter of politicians Panagis Papaligouras and Georgios Rallis, she developed a love for the field, but never considered pursuing politics herself. Instead, dedicated to her true passion, acting, she consistently serves the theater, drawing strength from her husband and two sons.
This summer, on August 23 and 24, Lena will return to Epidaurus, where she, along with the 50 Danaids of Aeschylus, will explore the role of women and the poignant theme of uprooting.
London and Paris are two capitals I can visit again and again
You star in the play “Iketides” (The Suppliants), which will be staged this summer in Epidaurus...
It is an incredible play, which hasn’t been staged since 1964. It’s a trilogy by Aeschylus, the other two parts of which are lost. It has to do with the 50 daughters of Danaus, the Danaids, who, at the urging of their father, left their country and, chased by the sons of Egypt, arrive at Argos to seek asylum.
How does it relate to today’s times?
It is a play that addresses two very crucial issues: refugees and women. One aspect explores the experience of leaving one’s country due to threats of violence, horrible marriages, and, in this case, rape. The other has to do with being a woman and being controlled by the father, then the government, and then by the enemy.
The dancing, performed by a group of 50 women, exhibits a particular dynamic in the play. What is your role?
It’s very interesting that the main characters are the daughters of Danaus. In Marianna Kalbari’s interpretation, the two most renowned Danaids, Hypermnestra and Amymone, represent women’s voices. I portray Hypermnestra, who must navigate survival in Argos and then have to decide whether or not to listen to her father’s important command to his 50 daughters. There’s also a point where she disagrees with her sister, played by Loukia Michalopoulou. The musical aspect of the production is provided by Marina Satti and the Chores female vocal ensemble, with music by Charalambos Gogiou.
The play I will perform is a trilogy by Aeschylus, the other two parts of which are lost
Where do you like to spend the summer? Did you frequently visit any place during your childhood?
I have places that I really love, many of which I discovered while touring. One such place is Crete, and another is Andros, which I came to know through my husband. During my childhood summers, I used to visit the village of Trapeza in Aegialia.
How about traveling abroad?
I have favorite destinations in Europe, but what I dream of - and still can’t do because my children are still young - is to visit faraway places, like Latin America and India, whose cultures are more unfamiliar to me. Of course, London and Paris are two capitals I can visit again and again.
What is your biggest concern for your children?
My concern primarily revolves around their health and the wellbeing of our family. Additionally, I worry about the current times we live in, marked by escalating violence, rapid technological advancements, and environmental challenges. It’s a period of great uncertainty. However, one of the things we can do to shield them is to travel as often as possible and show them the world. •
We should travel as often as we can and show the world to our children
DIRTY LAUNDRY
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Simplicity in design is the company's philosophy, enhancing each style through understated elegance and luxury. Dirty laundry has a special dyeing process that creates subtle color variations, making each piece unique, reflecting the beauty of everybody's individuality.”
EXPANSION
The last two years the company has started the international expansion in Europe and the purpose is to spread that feeling of extra care, love, pride and feeling good in all occasions to its consumers and the local community through supporting local organizations and people in need.
Its vision is to grow the brand presence in Greece and globally through branded retail stores and strategic partnerships.
The company has 3 FSS, (Glyfada, Kifissia, Cosmos Thessaloniki) 5 SIS (Attika Departments stores) and more than 140 wholesale partners in selective locations throughout Greece.
Porto Carras Grand Resort
A Premier Destination for Luxurious Vacations, Social Events & Leisure
is an iconic destination that has played a significant role
in
For 50 years, it has been offering high-level services and authentic Greek hospitality to its guests in an environment of unparalleled beauty and intense contrasts. Whether you’re seeking a romantic getaway, a family vacation, or a venue for corporate events, Porto Carras Grand Resort promises to exceed your expectations with its exceptional service and unrivaled amenities.
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Located on the stunning coastline of Sithonia, Halkidiki, Porto Carras Grand Resort
in establishing luxury tourism in Greece, especially
Halkidiki.
In one of cinema’s most iconic chase scenes, Jean-Paul Belmondo tears through the narrow streets of Kastella in a Fiat 124 Special in the 1971 film “The Burglars”, where Omar Sharif portrayed a corrupt Greek policeman. This film unveiled Piraeus’ captivating charm to viewers worldwide. In just a few scenes, “The Burglars” continued the legacy of Greek cinema, following in the footsteps of legendary actors. From the lead-
We embark on the ultimate summer stroll through Kastella, Mikrolimano, Piraiki, Pasalimani, and the city center, leading us to the antique shops of Ippodameia Square
PIRAEUS: WHERE CITY MEETS ISLAND
ing Thanasis Veggos sprinting through the port of Piraeus, to Dimitris Papamichail’s rendition of “Diplopenies” (Dancing The Sirtaki) in Zea, and Aliki Vougiouklaki’s “I Aliki sto Naftiko” (Alice in the Navy), to Melina Mercouri in “Ta Pedia tou Pirea” (Never on Sunday), the neighborhoods surrounding Greece’s largest port have known great glories, illuminated by the brilliance of cinematic history.
ΜΙΚΡΟΛΙΜΑΝΟ / MIKROLIMANO
/ THE VEAKIO THEATER FROM ABOVE
And rightfully so. The stroll through Kastella, Mikrolimano, Piraiki, Pasalimani, and to the Municipal Theater of Piraeus not only captivates Athenians but also attracts tourists spending a few days in Piraeus.
The slopes of Kastella, known as the hill of Munichia in ancient times, are endlessly enchanting. This picturesque neighborhood, nestled amphitheatrically above Mikrolimano, beckons you to always look... up. To the colorful neoclassical buildings of the 19th century, the impeccably preserved estates and of course the famous mansions of the area. From Profitis Ilias, you can admire the entire city. A stop at the Veakeio Theater during the summer months promises a remarkable spectacle. And when you reach “Don Kihoti” for a coffee or drink, you can catch your breath before continuing on to Mikrolimano. Whether you ascend to the rooftop for panoramic views or just gaze through the window, framed by sailboats, the experience is truly unforgettable.
/ THE HILL OF KASTELLA
ΗΛΙΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΜΑ
/ STROLLS IN KASTELLA OFTEN END WITH FOOD OR DRINK AT THE PORT
/ A REFRESHING BLACK QUINOA AND GRILLED SHRIMP SALAD AT "VAROULKO" ΜΑΡΙΝΑ
With its multitude of names, countless admirers, diverse culinary options, and breathtaking sunset views, Mikrolimano offers an unbeatable experience. The presence of the Nautical Club, well kept homes, luxurious yachts, and racing sailboats, coupled with the irresistible scent of freshly cooked fish, evokes the essence of an island, despite the fact that it is just minutes away from the bustling center of Athens.
On Sunday mornings, the waterfront buzzes with people enjoying the seaside ambiance, while evenings see an influx of mainly young visitors seeking to savor cocktails at the Sailing Club or one of the lounge bars in the area. As for dining options, Mikrolimano offers a diverse array to suit all palates, ranging from “Varoulko” and “Fraoula” to “Vag-ir”.
Once known as Pasalimani during the Turkish era, the Port of Zeas earned its name from the “pasades” of Athens who frequented the area with their harems for bathing. Today, this bustling hub serves as the entertainment center of Piraeus, attracting people of all ages year-round. Historic coffee shops, still in operation, seamlessly blend with modern shopping centers and cafes, found both in Kanari Square and Grigoriou Lampraki. It’s worth noting that Olympiacos, the renowned sports club, was founded at the “Kyvelia” coffee shop in Pasalimani, which no longer stands.
In 1969, Stelios Kazantzidis sang “Stelios the drunk sleeps on the rocks of Piraiki” and since then, Piraiki has undergone signifi-
/ ZEA MARINA
Discovering
ΠΟΛΕΙΣ / CITIES |
/ PIRAEUS
WHILE WALKING IN PIRAIKI, YOU MAY COME ACROSS CORMORANTS
/ THE "PYRRHIC FLIGHT" MONUMENT BY ARTIST PANAGIOTIS TANIMANIDES AT ALEXANDRA SQUARE
/ THE REFRESHING WATERS OF PIRAIKI ARE PERFECT FOR A SWIM
/ JOGGING BY THE SEA IS ALWAYS A GOOD CALL
cant transformation. Located east of the main port, Piraiki is now an ideal area for leisurely strolls. On foot, one can easily reach Marina Zeas or even Kastella, for the more adventurous.
The Long Walls, an iconic landmark of Piraeus, are constructed from the renowned aktiti stone, also used in many ancient works throughout Athens. Today, a stroll to the antique shops of Ippodameia Square is a great excursion, followed by a stop at “Iperokeanion”, renowned for its seafood pasta, or one of the charming small taverns nearby, offering traditional Greek cuisine.
Since its reopening in October 2013, the renovated Municipal Theater has hosted countless memorable nights for theater enthusiasts. The impressive architecture by Lazarimos has transformed Piraeus into a theater-museum, boasting baroque elements rarely seen elsewhere in Europe.
This year, a diverse program of performances awaits, curated by artistic director Nikos Diamantis, featuring both Greek and international artists. Diamantis himself has directed the special production “What We Owe Democracy”, scheduled to be presented on July 5th, 6th, and 7th at various venues, including the “Sotiria” Hospital, the National Library, and the Keratsini Sea Food Market.
«HELLO. THIS
IS YOKO»
We visit the Tate Modern art gallery in London, where the most disruptive exhibition of the season is taking place. We unravel the work and life of a person who turned 91 years old and never stopped dreaming of world peace.
BY NATASA MASTORAKOU
/ WHITE DOMINATES ALL SPACES OF THE EXHIBITION JUST AS IT DOES IN THE ARTIST’S LIFE
«Hello. This is Yoko».
/ JOHN LENNON AND YOKO ONO LYING IN BED IS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS PEACEFUL PROTESTS
“Hello. This is Yoko”. This is the message heard by those who choose to visit the “Music of the Mind” exhibition at the Tate Modern art gallery in London. Yoko Ono’s recording is included on the album “Fly”, released in 1971, and it’s only natural for her to be the one to welcome us to the gallery.
Once inside, the mind immediately “locks” into another era. No cell phones or texting. Receiving a message on an answering machine is part of the daily routine.
Performer, musician, filmmaker, poet, but first and foremost an advocate for world peace, Yoko Ono turned 91 a few months ago and for the first time is enjoying such a large exhibition in the UK for her entire practice.
The exhibition contains over 200 pieces spanning seven decades of her works (scores, installations, films and photography) in an attempt to piece together a difficult puzzle. From her years in Japan, her first steps in New York, John Lennon, and her art after his death, the exhibition traces the evolution of a special persona and explores some of Ono’s most talked-about and powerful works of art. All this while managing to keep the interest of viewers constantly high. This is the exhibition’s great success: it follows the practice of Yoko Ono and makes the audience part of the game from a very early stage.
Discovering
/ CHESS WITH ONLY WHITE CHESS PIECES BECAUSE HERE THERE ARE NO WINNERS OR LOSERS
After all, she invites us to play chess with only the white chess pieces; to punch nails into a wall; to wrap ourselves in black cloths while losing our form; and even greet a stranger through a gunshot hole in a window.
A white boat in a stark white room refers to refugees and invites the audience to paint messages and symbols in blue. The result and the words that all - young and old - leave on this visual journey are worth more than anything!
One ladder, many messages
In 1966 John Lennon found a ladder in an art gallery and climbed it to discover a magnifying glass and a piece of paper with the word “Yes” on it. In 2024 visitors at the Tate Modern can climb the same ladder, placed in the middle of the hall, and become part of the installation. However, the famous white ladder is not the only highlight of this presentation. Most of the exhibition includes historical photographs, documents, magazines and tributes, some of which had special symbolism in Yoko Ono’s career. Like the photo of her at a piano while John Cage and David Tudor improvise on the strings, but also the room with thousands of messages written by visitors about their mother and stuck on the wall as a tribute to the motherchild relationship.
Yoko Ono is the artist who put the audience at the center like no other. She publicly addressed them in a clear and unequivocal manner. And this concept spreads through all the exhibition halls. Whether you’re familiar with her work or getting to know her for the first time, it’s impossible not to sit back and watch Yoko Ono and John Lennon lying in the legendary bed
Discovering
during their honeymoon, while dozens of journalists “interrogate” them, and they insist on talking about peace. Also, it’s impossible not to be moved by seeing the blue sea of messages formed in the “Add Color (Refugee Boat)” installation, which was first realized in 2016 from an original idea she had in 1960. Leaving the exhibition area, we’re invited to write a wish and hang it on Yoko Ono’s famous wish tree. The messages for peace are the ones that apparently stand out, making the audience feel part of a global “conspiracy”, which may influence this time. Because if Yoko Ono, through her works and life, through John Lennon, through “Imagine” and through wishes, believed in and asked to give peace a chance, why shouldn’t we do the same with her? •
«CRAZY ENGLISH
National Theater.
This image may not be the first that comes to mind when you think of London, but this is the city that rules the summer months in the English capital.
Exiting the Tate Modern art gallery, it’s impossible not to “succumb” to the need for a stroll along the Thames Path to admire the sights, but also to feel that you are part of the beautiful big city. People of all ages enjoy the sun at cafes and bars that literally touch the water; admire Big Ben right across the street; and patiently wait to board the London Eye. The 32 capsules, which represent the 32 Boroughs of London, host tourists from all over the world. Afterwards, the more experienced, immediately dash to the narrow streets of Bankside and the theatre-goers pass the gate of the National Theatre.
SUMMER»
Sunshine, ideal temperatures and endless walks by the river next to jugglers, street musicians and ice cream sellers... BY
NATASA MASTORAKOU
Discovering
/ CITIES
/ LONDON
THE ROYAL NATIONAL THEATRE OF GREAT BRITAIN
HUNGERFORD / HUNGERFORD BRIDGE
FOGG’S TAVERN’’
For food
/ THE HEATED INTERIOR MEZZANINE AT ‘‘BALA BAYA’’ OFFERS FANCY DISHES AND COCKTAILS
At the end of the ride - or (for the impatient ones) just before it begins - a stop for good food is necessary. “Bala Baya”, a mere 7-minute walk from Tate Modern, is famous both for its awardwinning dishes and its unique heated interior mezzanine. Here, Chef Eran Tibi has created an adventurous menu, focused on Israeli culture, creativity, and diversity.
Walking along the Thames Path calls for a quick photo op on Hungerford bridge, which will take you to Trafalgar Square to admire Nelson’s Column. At the end of the walk, a stop for good food is a must. And since you’re in central London, a good pub is the best option. You’ll find exactly what you’re looking for at “Mr Fogg’s Tavern”: a great selection of beers, Victorian decor and fish and chips that you’ll remember for a long time. •
www.facebook.com/visitporosgr
/ DAWN AT THE TOWN'S CASTLE, NAXOS
Destinations
ΓΙΑ ΝΑ ΞΟ
We fly TO NAXOS
While the island may be renowned for its beaches, another charm lies hidden in its mountains
BY NATASA MASTORAKOU
Destinations
I am skilled at performing the traditional dance known as “balos”, and I know all the nisiotika (traditional island songs) sung by Irini Legaki by heart. I have developed an appreciation for fine cheese and a love for the dry stone architecture typical of the Cyclades. While my ID card may reveal that I am half from Naxos, it took me some time to fully appreciate the beauty of the place that nurtured my ancestors. I’ve always been curious about why friends and acquaintances return to Naxos for vacation every year. My curiosity deepened when my childhood friend decided to leave life in the capital and settle on the island. Meanwhile, Lena’s decision to leave Exarchia, a vibrant neighborhood in central Athens, and spontaneously open a bookstore in Filoti puzzled me even more.
From the moment you step off the plane, you understand that Naxos has a different vibe and special people. It’s not just the friendly smiles and willingness to share valuable information; it’s the genuine sweetness that comes from their hearts. Here, you’re not treated as a tourist, but as a friend who has come to visit. And this sense of hospitality extends even amidst the bustling streets of Chora. As you venture further, you’ll discover that the hospitality - and the beauty - only intensifies. While Naxos is renowned for its beaches, another charm lies hidden in its mountains. It reveals itself in the whitewashed alleyways, the quaint churches, and the delectable meze dishes (Greek appetizers). But most of all, it’s embodied in the locals, who have preserved the essence of their home amidst the ever-growing tide of tourism.
“What is worth seeing?” I asked the locals just before starting my trek. Their answer surprised me... “Follow your instincts” they told me and that’s exactly what I did. Having a schedule on Naxos is unnecessary. “You might have intended to visit the island’s five most emblematic villages in one day but end up savoring raki at ‘Matina’ in Koronos from morning until... the next morning,” say the locals.
Τhe first surprise awaits with its pastel colors and blooming bougainvillea, a step away from the typical Cycladic aesthetic. Feel free to wander the narrow streets of the village, but be sure not to miss “Marimairo”, the shop run by the fifth generation of marble craftsmen from the Kapiri family. Here, you’ll find figurines, platters, lamps, and jewelry, all meticulously handcrafted from Naxos marble. During my stroll, I came across highly aesthetic creations at the “Fish & Olive” gallery. Don’t forget to sample the traditional citrus liqueur at the Vallindras family’s distillery and indulge in the famous galaktoboureko (custard dessert) at the traditional cafe known to locals as Galani. Heeding the advice of the village elders, I savored the dessert alongside Greek coffee at one of the few tables in the shop, all while admiring the imposing stone walls of the Barozzi-Gratsia Tower. Of remarkable beauty and architectural significance is the 11th-century church of Agios Georgios Diasoritis, nestled amidst olive groves just a ten-minute walk away.
“FISH & OLIVE” GALLERY
Χαλκί / Chalki
Nestled on the slopes of Mount Zas, Filoti stands as the largest village not only on Naxos but also in the Cyclades, boasting over 1,500 permanent residents. Perched at an altitude of 400 meters in an amphitheatrical arrangement, Filoti holds the title of the capital of cattle breeders, ensuring that no visitor leaves empty-handed. From succulent lamb and goat dishes to renowned graviera cheese, mizithra traditional cheese, and arseniko (a local spicy kefalotyri cheese), Filoti offers a tempting selection of culinary delights. Exploring the village’s alleys, admiring its unique churches, and stepping back in time in the meticulously renovated traditional workshops will easily occupy several hours of your time. Be sure to sample the delicacies offered in the quaint shops dotting the village streets. And remember, in Filoti, everything revolves around the central plane tree–whether it’s food or... gossip. Should you choose to extend your stay, traditional guesthouses like the one owned by Vasiliki offer excellent accommodation.
All the splendors of Greece converge in the birthplace of Manolis Glezos (politician, journalist). Characterized by its traditional settlement and medieval architecture, Apeiranthos exudes its own unique charm, much like its inhabitants who speak a distinctive local dialect, reminiscent of Cretan–testimonies suggest that many residents originated from Anogeia and Sfakia. These cultural elements, along with the village’s five museums, breathtaking views, and delectable cuisine, compelled my friend Lena Vlastara to leave Athens and make Apeiranthos her home. And her decision proved wise. During the time of the coronavirus pandemic, Lena worked remotely from Naxos and eventually merged her two passions into a delightful shop. “In the span of a single night, with the help of friends and a touch of spontaneity, dozens of boxes, bookshelves, and suitcases were transported from the port to the village. By morning, the residents awoke to find a bookstore in their midst!” Lena recounts. Did she ever regret her decision? “Not in the slightest. In Apeiranthos, everyone is an artist–they write poetry, paint, sing, and play music. During our poetry evenings, the alley comes alive with people savoring raki and reciting their favorite poems. Soon, the instruments emerge, and the festivities carry on until dawn.” I felt a bit of envy for missing out on such a night, but it quickly faded as I savored one of the finest roasts of my life–the Naxos beef roast–at Lefteris’ tavern.
APEIRANTHOS IS A TRADITIONAL MOUNTAIN VILLAGE
Κεραμωτή / Keramoti
The mountain villages of Naxos gradually unveil their treasures with each step. Following a memorable night at the “Pyrethron” guesthouse in Apeiranthos –an excellent establishment dating back to 1890 – I embarked o n another journey into the mountains. Along the way, I stumbled upon the unexpected beauty of Keramoti and explored the renovated traditional olive mill. In Koronos, I couldn’t resist the temptation of Matina’s irresistible pies. My trip concluded in the lesser-known village of Komiaki, the highest mountain settlement in the Cyclades at 600 meters above sea level, and also my mother’s birthplace. Here, a lush green landscape dotted with watermills, crops, and ancient tombs from the pre-Cycladic period greeted me. Before bidding farewell to Naxos, a taste of raki, accompanied by the melodies of a violin and the traditional tsabouna (Greek folk instrument of the bagpipe family) proved to be the perfect souvenir.
Κόρωνος / Koronos
Destinations
When seeking dining recommendations on Naxos, “Axiotissa” consistently tops the list. For over 24 years, Sofia and Giannis have been crafting delicious dishes using locally-sourced ingredients, drawing patrons from as far as a 20-minute drive from Chora to Kastraki. “We arrived on Naxos in 1994, initially just for the season. I hadn’t even packed winter clothes,” reminisces Sofia, who had no intention of leaving the capital at the time. She worked as a waitress while Giannis served as a cook. “We never even considered changing professions,” he chuckles, attributing the success of the restaurant to its integrity. “We’re honest... As the Greek saying goes, ‘We don’t sell seaweed for silk ribbons’.” Giannis’s unique appetizers, unavailable elsewhere on the island, quickly earned the establishment its reputation. Today, their commitment to quality ingredients remains unwavering, with Sofia emphasizing, “Feeding people comes with a sense of responsibility”. Diners at “Axiotissa” can expect satisfaction with every dish, though the roasted eggplants with sweet and sour sauce and almonds, marathotiganites (crispy fennel balls), and goat dishes stand out as perennial favorites. •
Cybersecurity concerns us all
MICHAIL BLETSAS
FLY Magazine sits down with the distinguished Greek research scientist from Chania, who is not only leading the charge as the IT director at MIT Media Lab but also taking on a new role as head of Greece’s National Cyber Security Authority. We caught up with him for a chat at the “Somewhere” hotel in Vouliagmeni
Michail Bletsas has conquered numerous peaks in his path and covered countless miles across continents as a restless modern explorer, driven by his passion to discover new horizons.
A graduate in Electrical Engineering from the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and a computer engineer with an M.Sc from Boston University, he has spent three decades as a researcher and director of computing systems at the MIT Media Lab. Hailing from Chania, he gained widespread recognition as one of the founding members of “One Laptop Per Child”, a non-profit organization that revolutionized education by designing and manufacturing affordable laptops for children in even the most remote corners of the globe.
Today, fueled by his investigative spirit, he holds the position of Head of the National Cyber Security Authority in Greece, overseeing the design of the country’s digital defense. He openly shares insights not only on cyber security but also on the present and future of Artificial Intelligence.
From Crete, where you were born and raised, you found yourself in America and in Boston as head of the MIT Lab. What factors sent you to the other side of the Atlantic?
My professional involvement in the IT field during my student years felt limiting. I had a desire to do more, driven by curiosity and a restless spirit. This led me to explore further opportunities and possibilities.
Traveling seems to be part of your DNA…
Our results have been exceptionally positive, thanks to the implementation of Artificial Intelligence
As a child growing up on Crete, the island’s expansive landscape left a profound impression on me, despite its proximity to the sea. I didn’t travel as a child - you don’t leave Chania in the summer. Only at the end of the summer did we visit my grandmother in Thessaloniki as a family. Growing up, I often took excursions to the beaches of Chania by sea and before the age of 20 I discovered the insular nature of Crete, culminating in a significant journey to Gavdos, where I ventured into the open sea. During my years as a Technical University student, I immediately started working to facilitate my desire to travel, a pursuit that fortunately became an integral part of my professional life. The highlight of my travels occurred during my involvement with the “One Laptop Per Child” project, where I traveled the globe on round-the-world tickets, spending nearly 20 days traveling each month.
Is there something specific in your hometown that you always seek out? Perhaps the sea?
Yes, all the time. The environment of Crete is truly unique. It offers such a variety that even after all these years, I continue
to discover new things. You can have the extreme experience of downhill skiing and then be in the sea just 45 minutes later. The landscape has huge contrasts, from the lush greenery of western Crete to the rugged mountains of the east. Even the people, the tastes and the cooking vary from one prefecture to another. You can never be bored there.
You’re no stranger to traveling to Greece. You’ve recently taken on the role of governor of the National Cyber Security Authority. What strategies do you believe are essential for safeguarding the country in the digital realm?
The significant presence of Greeks within influential global organizations like MIT serves as a form of soft power for our country
One of the primary focuses of the National Cyber Security Authority is widespread awareness. Cybersecurity concerns us all, and spreading best practices for digital service usage to all users is imperative. We aim to implement educational initiatives, which have not traditionally been central to the Authority’s operations. Our mission involves establishing cybersecurity standards for digital service providers and conducting audits to ensure compliance. The challenges ahead are significant, as cybercrime continues to escalate. We also strive to enhance the user-friendliness of security procedures, as this promotes adherence. We’d like to see new methods of user authentication. After all, how many passwords can one person realistically remember nowadays?
What areas of development should we prioritize in the evolving relationship between Artificial Intelligence and humans?
The rapid pace of technological advancement understandably raises concerns. That’s why I insist on the importance of awareness. One major concern lies in the application of Artificial Intelligence, particularly in search engines and social media algorithms, where carefully targeted content allows those who want to negatively influence public opinion do so in the most effective way. We have come to the point where we don’t know what is true and what is false. and this undermines the functioning of democracy. However, there are also notable positive outcomes resulting from AI applications, particularly in medical diagnostics and pharmacology. For me, the most recent and impressive achievement is not ChatGPT, but Deep Mind’s AlphaFold, which is making huge contributions to protein science and accelerating drug discovery.
Can new technologies play a role in improving our relationship with the environment?
With a high degree of certainty that climate change is anthropogenic, I believe that the environmental challenge is more political rather than technological. I hope that technology will overcome the obstacles, because I don’t have such high expectations for politics.
The environment of Crete is truly unique. You can have the extreme experience of downhill skiing and then be in the sea just 45 minutes later
You declined candidacy for the European Parliament elections. Can you share your reasoning behind this decision?
While discussions did take place, I ultimately decided that I am more useful in something that I know better and that I can directly contribute to.
What drives you to assume critical positions?
Growing up, I often ventured to the beaches of Chania by sea. It was there, before I turned 20, that I truly grasped the insular nature of Crete
Leading the National Cyber Security Authority presents a significant challenge, a role that no one else from Greece was willing to undertake. Success in this position for me is if you don’t “hear” from me. The best would be if nothing occurs, which I find very unlikely. However, if an incident does arise, the blame may fall squarely on us. So I don’t have much to gain, but rather to lose from this position, but it represents a challenge as it’s something different from what I’m used to doing. And anyway, I feel proud to contribute to my country.
Can you highlight any notable achievements from your time at MIT?
MIT stands at the forefront of technological advancement, making significant contributions to human progress. Over the past three decades, I’ve had the privilege of being part of this esteemed institution, which has historically attracted a substantial Greek presence. We rely on private initiatives to support and uphold the rich tradition of Greek presence at MIT, ensuring it remains robust and resilient amidst competition from larger nations. The significant representation of Greeks in such a globally influential institution serves as a form of soft power for our country. •
Sea you in Piraeus
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The quiet Mykonos
We explore the untouched parts of Mykonos - an otherwise wild party island - free from mass tourism, from the beaches of Kapari, Tigani, and Mirsini to Panormos and Agios Sostis, indulging in homemade Mykonian cuisine at carefully selected Greek taverns along the way
BY PANAGIOTIS KAISARATOS
Destinations
And who says Mykonos only means cosmopolitan beaches, ultra-luxurious restaurants, and wild parties until dawn? This popular Cycladic island is much more than what the tabloids show.
Yes, it is considered the Mecca of nightlife and competes with Ibiza for the title of the world’s party capital – not unfairly. But... those who do not know its other side will be impressed by the many places on the “island of the winds” that are untouched by mass tourism. From unorganized beaches with few people to quiet hotels far from the bustling main town of Chora.
The “other Mykonos”, which maintains its incomparable beauty – it’s no wonder that it’s the favorite island of millions of tourists – wakes up as soon as the partygoers go to sleep. The town of Mykonos, Chora, with its picturesque villages and beaches of unsurpassed beauty, is almost empty early in the morning. It’s a time when the island returns to its residents.
Start your day with a stroll through the picturesque alleys. This is the time when you’ll encounter elderly locals at the cafes, women dressed in black tending to flowers in the yards, men competing in backgammon on charming balconies, and children playing ball in the few alleys available. For every area like Psarrou that attracts celebrities every year, there is also a beach such as Kapari, Tigani, Lia, Paraga and Mirsini. For those seeking respite from the paparazzi flashes, Panormos offers a peaceful option, where sunbeds and cushions meet vast stretches of untouched shoreline for the more independent travelers.
«KUZINA» / DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPETIZERS AT "KUZINA"
/ “STASI DIETHNES”: CHEESECAKE WITH MYKONOS TIROVOLIA AND HOMEMADE MELON JAM
/ AT "KARTERI" YOU CAN ALSO FEED THE LOCAL CHICKENS
Deserted and delicious
However, no exploration of Mykonos’s beaches would be complete without a visit to Agios Sostis. Located far from the vibrant energy of “Super Paradise” – both in distance and ambiance – it stands as the ideal choice for those in search of tranquility and natural beauty. However, before you arrive, a pit stop at one of the mini-markets and bakeries you’ll encounter along the way is a must, as there are absolutely no facilities on the beach. For the more adventurous ones, a day spent searching for the now relatively hidden beach at Platis Gialos promises its own rewards. The sea whets the appetite, and Mykonos offers excellent culinary options for all palates. Take, for example, the “Stasi Diethnes” restaurant, just a few meters away from Platis Gialos. Here, traditional and fresh Mykonian products are skillfully prepared, making it one of the best dining establishments on the island. Many of the vegetables used in salads and appetizers are grown on-site in this family-owned business.
Join Us for a Summer of Frati
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I Frati Santorini in Perivolos promises an ultimate relaxation at Perivolos Beach, one of the most beautiful and picturesque beaches in Santorini. Enjoy an all- day holistic experience, from morning brunches and coffee awakenings, to sunset drinks and fine dining.
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I Frati Mykonos offers the ultimate island experience Located 5m away from the center, the renowned Italian restaurant brings its magical sensation to the cosmopolitan island Combining the exquisite Greek hospitality, the Aegean sunset & the Cycladic ambience, I Frati welcomes u as a unique gastronomic destination.
Destinations
THE VODAFONE FOUNDATION DIVES DEEP TO HIGHLIGHT THE IMPORTANCE OF POSIDONIA SEAGRASS AND AIMS TO SAVE IT
Posidonia, a unique marine plant endemic to the Mediterranean, with its green, lively leaves resembling seaweed, is often referred to as the “olive tree of the sea”. Forming underwater meadows, Posidonia serves as a refuge for over 1,400 species of marine flora and fauna. It acts as a protector of marine life and a purifier of the marine ecosystem, cleaning water turbidity, recycling nutrients, and producing oxygen with a potential of up to 24 tons per year. Impressively, it absorbs 15 times more carbon dioxide compared to terrestrial forests like the Amazon. Consequently, its economic value exceeds 10 billion euros annually (172€/m2).
However, these meadows face threats from overfishing, mooring, and water pollution. In the event of their destruction, Posidonia requires about a century to regenerate just one meter.
AN INITIATIVE BY THE VODAFONE FOUNDATION IN COLLABORATION WITH THE UNIVERSITY OF PATRAS
Recognizing the imperative of protecting this unique ecosystem against the effects of climate change, Vodafone Foundation Greece is investing in the fight to raise awareness of its importance and preserve it through the Vodafone Posidonia program. In collaboration with the Oceanus Lab of the University of Patras and leveraging Vodafone’s advanced expertise, the Vodafone Posidonia initiative has embarked on a mission to protect the precious marine flora. Systematically mapping strategic points of the Aegean under the scientific guidance of Professor Giorgos Papatheodoros and utilizing state-of-the-art equipment, significant portions of the Posidonia underwater meadows in the waters of Syros, Paros, Antiparos, Mykonos, Delos, and Rhenia islands have been mapped.
Destinations
On the way back from Agios Sostis to Chora, a stop at “Local Mykonos” is a must. This restaurant offers some of the most modern cuisine in the area, featuring well-prepared meats and the ultimate versions of fried feta, either wrapped in foil or drizzled with honey.
You'll also find Italian recipes made with local products at the all-day restaurant "I Frati Mykonos". The best time to enjoy its wonderful dishes is in the early evening, catching the sunset with an aperitivo in hand.
In a small yet tastefully decorated space, conveniently located near Mykonos Town and next to the airport, you’ll discover “Karteri”. This restaurant is sure to captivate you with its cuisine and breathtaking views. I highly recommend trying the meatballs, sausage, kebab, and chicken.
The perfect way to conclude a day on Mykonos is with a cocktail overlooking the sea! A stroll to Ornos will lead you to “Kuzina”, but I’ll let you uncover the rest on your own. However, if you ask the locals, they’ll insist that the best cocktails can be found at “Scarpa” in Little Venice.
However, the “other” side of Mykonos extends beyond its beaches and culinary delights. It boasts significant monuments of archaeological interest, with a visit to the neighboring island of Delos being a must. From Ftelia, believed to be the site of the tomb of the king of Lokra, Aedas, to the Mycenaean vaulted tomb at Angelika, renowned as the largest and finest example of funerary architecture from the Mycenaean period in the Cyclades, to Chora with its traditional charm and iconic windmills – designated as an archaeological site themselves – Mykonos has a rich history waiting to be discovered. •
THE "GUARDS" OF DELOS
EMILIOS CHILAKIS AND ATHINA MAXIMOU MOVED FROM PSIRRI TO KERAMEIKOS IN 2007
Arm in arm with beloved Greek actor Emilios Chilakis, we become tourists in our own city as we explore Psirri, Gazi, and Thisio
EMILIOS CHILAKIS
Taking a walk with a “Hypochondriac”
BY NATASA MASTORAKOU PHOTOS DIMITRIΟS KLEANTHOUS
Can you be a tourist in your own city? Taking a walk with Emilios Chilakis in the center of Athens is not an easy task. People watched him during every step and every stop we made during the photo shoot or when we were looking at the cityscape... Passersby smiled widely at him... He is one of those actors who over the years have become part of our lives, either from his television hits or from his successful plays. Emilios Chilakis, however, knows the center of Athens as well as anyone. Our walk started from the Emporikon Theater in Psirri and took us all the way to Gazi. We passed through the path from where he rehearses for his new play, nearly reaching his home behind Kerameikos.
Along the way, we delved into discussions about Moliere, the Enlightenment era, and the ever-evolving nature of our city. Emilios Chilakis this year chose to stage Moliere’s renowned play “The Imaginary Invalid” (also known as “The Hypochondriac”). This
After rehearsals in Psirri or after finishing performances, I usually dine with friends somewhere nearby “ “
WALKING FROM PSIRRI TO GAZI, OUR EYES ARE DRAWN TO PRESERVED BUILDINGS, NOW THE CITY’S NEW HOT SPOTS
marks the third time in his career that he has tackled the works of the French comedic master. As we strolled through the newly opened shops in the city center, he shared with me the reasoning behind his decision.
“The selection of this project wasn’t influenced by the recent health crisis, but rather by the type of citizens we aspire to be. It’s about our belief in saviors and those who claim to have inspired insight. Personally, I don’t subscribe to the idea of one brilliant mind. I identify as a socialist and firmly believe that clarity of thought is best achieved through diverse perspec-
Destinations
tives. While it’s true that multiple opinions can sometimes lead to chaos, democracy has always managed to progress through this diversity of voices. I don’t put my faith in the concept of an enlightened leader.”
But in a time when the country, and particularly Athens, appears to be undergoing rapid change, what relevance does this specific play hold?
As we enjoyed a much-needed coffee break, a ritual after every rehearsal, amidst the narrow lanes of Sarri Street, Chilakis vividly portrayed the brilliance of Moliere. Together, we reminisced about the neighborhood’s rich theatrical history and its significant moments.
“I have a deep admiration for Moliere. This play resonates with me because Moliere explores significant political themes concerning the role of citizens in society. As a product of the Enlightenment, he grasps the emergence of a new figure in Europe: the bourgeois, representing the middle-class individual. He recognizes that the economic landscape in Europe is evolving, with the middle-class individual, now affluent, also seeking the prestige traditionally associated with nobility. Moliere’s work critiques this phenomenon, shedding light on the new “religion” of the Enlightenment: science. Just as religious doctrines were once unquestioned, science now faces exploitation by charlatans. Through humor and drama, Moliere exposes the folly of blindly trusting those who seek only to profit.”
As his words painted a vivid picture of the play’s themes, the surroundings began to stir with activity. The streets filled with young people enjoying coffee and the first rounds of wine at nearby tables. Despite the evolving phases of Psirri in recent years, we observed that groups of friends remained the lifeblood of the area. Much like actors and theater enthusiasts gathering around his -
THE ‘‘BAKERY’’ AT THE INTERSECTION OF SARRI AND AG. ANARGYRON STREETS IS ONE OF THE OLDEST IN ATHENS AND REMAINS IN THE SAME SPOT SINCE 1907
IN A REAL OASIS OF ATHENS, on the borders of the ancient and modern city and with the absolute view to Acropolis, there is “THETA”, the all day café-restaurant that we created with love for Greek cuisine and respect for tradition. From sunrise, you can enjoy your coffee accompanied by breakfast or brunch, continue with lunch and in the evening, try unique dishes with flavors from all over Greece. We look forward to welcoming you!
ON THE BUSTLING PIREOS AVENUE, THE GRAFFITI ADORNING THE WALLS OF TECHNOPOLIS STAND OUT, SENDING A MESSAGE TO SOCIETY
toric theaters post-performance, these groups engage in spirited discussions over drinks, analyzing the play they’ve just experienced—or perhaps not, as the case may be.
Walking alongside Emilios towards Gazi, we paused at an antique shop in the vicinity—a location that served as the backdrop for his first TV series. Nearby, we also stopped at the house where he once resided with Athina Maximou. One of the most cherished couples in the theater realm, over the past few years, Emilios and Athina work together. Surrounding himself with steadfast individuals like Athina and Manolis Dounias, Emilios finds solace in their unwavering support. “Our method of working revolves around creating a sense of paradise for each other. My paradise consists of the people I collaborate with, individuals who share a common approach to problem-solving. Together, we transform our greatest challenges into thought-provoking inquiries. When a theatergoer hears a question, they instinctively engage with the performance, becoming an integral part of the narrative.
ACTORS AND THEATERGOERS GATHER IN CLUSTERS AROUND HISTORIC THEATERS, HEADING FOR A DRINK TO ANALYZE A PLAY
OR PERHAPS NOT
The magic of the rock
As our journey continued to Thisio, our gaze fixed upon the majestic Acropolis, memories from days gone by flooded our conversation. Observing the youthful crowd outside the Athens Street Food Festival, we were transported back to our own early explorations in the area–our inaugural outings, nights spent at the iconic +Soda club, and the enchantment of the sacred rock looming overhead.
“From our home in Psirri, where Athina and I resided after our marriage, we moved to Gazi in 2007. We both love the center of Athens very much. We want to see the Acropolis. It’s our reference point. Although our leisurely strolls around the city have dwindled, due to the demands of filming and stage performances, I still relish the essence of the center of Athens. After rehearsals in Psirri or after finishing performances, I usually dine with friends somewhere nearby.”
When Athina and I got married, we moved to Gazi in 2007 (...) we want to see the Acropolis. It’s our point of reference “ “
Every stroll in the center of Athens inevitably includes encounters with new “residents”, who bring their own unique colors to the city despite coming from afar. Curious, I probed Emilios about the distinctive nuances he perceives in the area today. “I’m deeply rooted in my homeland, observing its evolution, both its triumphs and its tribulations. Our country now hosts immigrants who reside here out of necessity, individuals who arrived and found themselves compelled to stay. Yet, this is my home–the heart of Athens that I cherish. Though it may not always be safe, my affection for it remains unwavering. I am a patriot, and I view Greece as my homeland, struggling with the aftermath of crisis, accommodating those who reside here involuntarily, and confronting discrimination. These are individuals not accepted because they lack the right to form a family, unable to marry as same-sex couples and denied the right to adopt...”
Two hours later, having traversed Pireos Avenue and taken in the vibrant street art, we reached the outskirts of Technopolis where the pulsating beats of a nearby festival provided a backdrop to our final conversation. As we bid farewell, plans were made to reunite for the premiere of “The Imaginary Invalid” on July 1, whether at the Petra Theater, the Veakio, in Vyrona, or one of the other stops of the play’s grand tour across Greece. As he departed, I reflected on our encounter and found my answer: indeed, you can be a tourist in your own city. •
Paris THE CITY OF INTELLECT AND TASTE
We fly to the French capital, immersing ourselves in the bohemian lifestyle as we wander from the 14th arrondissement to the 19th
BY DIMITRA ATHANASOPOULOU
/ THE BASILICA OF SACRÉ-CŒUR IN MONTMARTRE: ONE OF THE HIGHEST POINTS OF THE CITY
We meet up with Greeks who have established a unique bookstore and publishing house, where Greece, represented by “Desmos”, will play a prominent role in this summer’s major poetry event, the Marché de la Poésie. We also indulge in the flavors of local Greek products at two of the most renowned Greek restaurants...
It’s impossible to fully explore Paris in just one trip, as the city offers something for every type of traveler. Parisian life is rich and multifaceted. Often described as a “library spanning the Seine River”, each visit to this metropolis reveals a new layer of its charm. Each district holds hidden cultural gems, offering unique experiences that transport you to different destinations simultaneously.
This time, after enjoying my customary first coffee at “Les Editeurs”, a cafe-restaurant adorned with shelves of books in the Odéon neighborhood, I embarked on a journey into the Greek intellectual and culinary scene of Paris. My first stop: the 14th arrondissement (administrative district). I made my way to the Montparnasse Tower, offering the best city views at 210 meters high, then ventured through the eponymous cemetery, home to the graves of numerous famous figures. Next, I headed to Vendôme street, a tranquil alley nestled behind the bustling boulevards, where I discovered the precious “Desmos”. Nestled on the ground floor of a Haussmann building stands the Greek cultural center “Desmos”, now in its fourth decade of operation. There, I met Yiannis Mavroidakos, the founder behind this multifaceted institution: a Greek bookstore also operating as a publishing house, a Greek school, and an exhibition center.
The shelves boast over 200 titles by modern Greek authors, all translated into Greek. Since my last visit, I noticed that several new titles had been added to the collection.
The French have a deep admiration for Greek literary giants such as Cavafy, Ritsos, Elytis, and Papadiamantis, alongside contemporary authors like Vassilis Alexakis, Ioanna Karystiani, and Vassilis Vassilikos. “Desmos” plays a vital role in promoting intercultural
coexistence by introducing the “literary breath” of Greece to France and facilitating vibrant artistic exchanges through its gallery, which showcases works by Greek visual artists. Furthermore, “Desmos” tirelessly curates a diverse selection of Greek writers, poets, and essayists, while also offering organized Greek language lessons to the French who love our language and our country and third-generation Greeks seeking to reconnect with their heritage.
Yiannis Mavroidakos informs us that this summer, through “Desmos”, Greece will take center stage at the prestigious poetry event, the Marché de la Poésie. Greek poets, including Titos Patrikios, whose works have been published in bilingual editions by “Desmos”, will represent our country at this year’s Olympic Games.
At the same time, he publishes two large anthologies, one featuring poets of the 20s and the other highlighting contemporary poets. “Paris is a kind of permanent cultural capital. When something is presented in Paris, it radiates with a different visibility and significance,” he says, reflecting on Desmos’ forty-year journey. “The time has come for it to pass into younger hands,” he continues, listing the names of professors and collaborators who are gradually assuming leadership roles within the Greek literary club, alongside his daughters. Myrto Mavroidakou has taken on the task of modernizing Desmos through innovative initiatives tailored to the digital age.
Leaving I feel that there is a small Athens in the City of Light. The neighborhood of “Desmos” pulsates with life and color. I wander through the bustling streets, passing by ethnic bistros and grand cinemas that define the area. Eventually, I reach Place Denfert Rochereau, marked by Auguste Bartholdi’s iconic Belfort lion sculpture at its center. From there, I turn onto the lively Rue Daguerre, once home to some of Paris’ old-fashioned Greek restaurants. These establishments have since disappeared, perhaps because a new generation of Greek chefs and restaurateurs have emerged, ushering in a new era of Greek cuisine in Paris. They bring with them traditional dishes, exquisite ingredients, and Michelin-starred culinary techniques. Along the way, I make a stop at the renowned bakery-patisserie “Aux Merveilleux de Fred”, popular for its delectable brioches and meringues.
“AUX MERVEILLEUX DE FRED”
Με
Michelin stars
I head to the 18th arrondissement, nestled at the foot of Montmartre, for dinner. I have an appointment with Mikaela Liaroutsou, the Greek-French chef behind the Greek ouzeri “étsi l’ouzeri”, located on Ruisseau street.
Michaela grew up in Paris, raised by a French mother and a Greek father in the vibrant neighborhood at the foot of the hill. She was captivated by the charm of Pigalle and Place de Tertre, where bohemian sketchers and painters adorned the square with their easels, surrounded by quaint brasseries and art-deco buildings lining narrow cobbled streets. Inspired by her surroundings, she decided to open both of her restaurants in the same area. Prior to this venture, she honed her culinary skills under the guidance of renowned chefs Michel Rostang and Cyril Lignac at their Michelin-starred establishments. With her restaurants “étsi” on Eugène Carrière street, where she was born, and “étsi l’ouzeri”, she expresses her Greek identity while blending gourmet influences with a more liberated cuisine reflective of her psyche. She sources Greek products from a wide network of suppliers in Greece and France, ensuring an authentic culinary experience for her patrons.
“I decided to create a space that reflects my own Greek experience within a Parisian setting. I chose this location because I was captivated by the charming square adorned with a tree, nestled in a small unknown, yet typically Parisian alley. Opening “etsi” bistrot felt natural to me, as the 18th arrondissement has always felt like home and I noticed a gap in the neighborhood for a bistrot offering bistronomy cuisine. Our goal at the bistrot is to craft a fusion cuisine that combines Greek and French flavors with a refined twist. Subsequently, I opened ‘étsi l’ouzeri’ to offer something different to the neighborhood. At the
/ MIKAELA LIAROUTSOU
/ MONTMARTRE
“ETSI BISTRO”
ouzeri, we aim to preserve tradition and offer a more authentic experience,” she says to FLY Magazine.
Mikaela is not the only one promoting the most refined version of Greek cuisine in France. The Chantzios brothers, Petros and Grigoris, two Greeks from Toulouse, have opened Yaya restaurant, a traditional Greek eatery featuring products and recipes from Messinia fused with the techniques of a French restaurant boasting Michelin stars. The success of one Yaya led to another, and now it has evolved into a high-end Greek chain led by Colombian chef Juan Arbelaez, who honed his culinary skills at renowned Michelin-starred restaurants in France like “Pierre Gagnaire”, “Le Bristol Paris”, and the “George V”. We visited the modern Greek restaurant located in the 19th arrondissement on Avenue Secrétan that has firmly placed Kalamata on the gastronomy map of France.
We actually found ourselves in an all-day space that offers Greek breakfast and lunch, as well as evening Greek-style entertainment, complete with products from Kalamata, selected wine labels from Greece, and Greek music. This concept was preceded by KALIOS, derived from the words Kalamata and Ilios (meaning “sun” in Greek), which supplies dozens of Michelin-starred chefs and nearly 1,000 restaurants in France with Greek products. Leaving Yaya with its cobblestones reminiscent of a Greek island, my steps lead me to the verdant Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Nestled on the hill of Belleville, this park resembles something out of a fairy tale and offers a unique view of the entire city. Yes, Paris truly caters to all tastes and cultures!
“YAYA RESTAURANT”
“YAYA RESTAURANT”
RESTAURANT”
MOUSSAKA DISH AT “YAYA RESTAURANT”
BY DONATELLA ADAMOU
Just visiting Andros once is enough to fall in love with it. The island exudes nobility, and its locals are welcoming and communicative, treating visitors as friends. It has some of the most beautiful seas, boasting crystal blue waters, not only in the Cyclades but in the entire country! Its iconic mansions, a trademark of the island, provide ideal backdrops for any photograph. Andros, the northernmost island of the Cyclades, is often considered a “favorite neighborhood” where the mind wanders when seeking respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. After all, it offers everything one could desire. Most importantly, it is conveniently located close to Athens International Airport “Eleftherios Venizelos”. Alternatively, it is also accessible from Mykonos airport.
This summer, Andros beckons us to elevate our culinary experiences by indulging in the tantalizing aroma of “fruitalia”, a local omelet prepared exclusively in a spacious pan, enriched with sausages and potatoes. Let’s savor the delightful flavors of sweet soumada and pontzi beverages, and also local rakomelo. It’s practically forbidden not to sample the famous pastries from the “Laskari” pastry shop, including its delectable macaroons.
ΜΠΑΤΣΙ / BATSI
XΩΡΑ / CHORA
XΩΡΑ / CHORA
/ "PASTITSAKIA" ALMOND SWEETS OF ANDROS
Φύση Οι
Nature
Nature lovers, especially trekkers, will feel complete on Andros, with its extensive network of 150 kilometers of trails weaving through a unique Cycladic landscape. Begin your journey by ascending to the lush Menites, where gurgling springs await. Continue on to the waterfalls of Pythara in Apoikia, where verdant vegetation surrounds you as you walk down a gentle trail. You will of course also visit Sariza, renowned for its therapeutic thermal waters, located in the same area. The elders will tell you that the spring’s origins trace back to Evia. Legend has it that Pasha San Riza lost his fez in a stream there, only to find it miraculously in Apoikia of Andros. That’s how the spring got its name. Along the way, the name was Greekized, simplified. The spring was officially established in 1787 as Sariza.
As you make your way to Chora or to Batsi – the vibrant hearts of the island, and ideal starting points for exploration – be sure to make a stop at one of the inland restaurants for a taste of tender boiled goat (a dish so delicious, you’ll be licking your fingers). Next, sample the homemade sour cherry juice from “Ermis” in Chora before venturing out to explore the island’s seas. Later, indulge in the delectable fish dishes at “Oti Kalo” in Batsi. For pasta enthusiasts, we recommend trying the linguini with fresh mussels, carbonara with guanciale, or seafood barley with shrimp. Soup aficionados should not miss the opportunity to try the scorpion fish soup at “Sea Satin Nino” in Korthi, while those craving veal can savor a clay pot dish with local cheese at “Skalakia” in Chora.
MENHTEΣ / MENITES
Enchanting swimming spots!
From Achla to Vitali, the coast offers a diverse array of beaches, including the shore of Agios Petros, the iconic rock of Grias to Pidima, Kolona, Glyfada, Chalkolimionas, Chrysi Ammos, and Agios Kyprianos. Whether you seek organized beaches or quiet havens for relaxation, Andros has it all. Mylos is perfect for surfing and windsurfing enthusiasts, while Sineti and Apothikes beckon divers to explore their underwater wonders.
/ ACHLA BEACH
ΧΡΥΣΗ ΑΜΜΟΣ / CHRISSI AMMOS (GOLDEN SAND) BEACH
"SEA SATIN NINO"
/ THE ROOF GARDEN OF THE NEW WING OF THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART IN THE CHORA OF ANDROS
Culture
It goes without saying that an island steeped in maritime history is also an ideal destination for cultural tourism lovers - those who can spend hours exploring museums. One of the island’s prides is the Museum of Contemporary Art of Vassilis and Eliza Goulandris. Besides hosting exhibitions featuring renowned visual artists it also houses an impressive permanent art collection. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Tower of Agios Petros, dating back to the Hellenistic era and considered one of the best-preserved towers in the Cyclades, offering breathtaking views of the endless blue sea. And for a taste of classic island charm, head to “Skala” in Batsi, which is perfect for clubbing, dining, and overnight stays all summer long.
It’s worth mentioning that Andros stands out as one of Greece’s most maintained islands, given the extensive list of shipowners who hail from there. In addition to the Museum of Contemporary Art, notable places on the island include the Empeirikeio Nursing Home, the Archaeological Museum - a contribution of Eliza and Vassilis Goulandris. Additionally, the Andros Maritime Museum preserves the island’s rich maritime heritage through its impressive collection of nautical instruments, maps, charters, lithographs, and models of Andriotian ships. •
/ THE CHURCH OF SAINT BARBARA IN CHORA
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Charles
Lloyd
MY CONNECTION WITH GREECE IS MYSTICAL
Internationally renowned saxophonist Charles Lloyd talks to FLY Magazine about his deep love for Greece and his acquaintance with Maria Farandouri, with whom he will make a historic reappearance this summer at the Herodeion Theater in Athens.
Those fortunate enough to attend Charles Lloyd's historic concert with Maria Farandouri at the Herodeion in June 2010 will never forget the magical musical evening under the Acropolis, graced by the presence of the renowned American jazz artist. In the years that followed, we enjoyed the music of the great Charles Lloyd through albums and recorded live performances from around the world.
That is, until this summer. Fourteen years after his last appearance in our country, the esteemed 86-year-old saxophonist returns to the Herodeion on July 18 as part of the Athens Festival. He will once again share the stage with Maria Farandouri, promising to blend jazz and improvisation with the melodies of the great composer Mikis Theodorakis.
How do you feel about returning to Greece after so many years? I often visit Greece, though not always for concerts. I come to restore my spirit and to be inspired by its beauty and history. I have many mentors here. My connection to your country is mystical. It started many years ago in Santa Barbara when I met Jimmy Argyropoulos. We were tennis buddies! In 2002, he sponsored the chair of Greek Studies at the University of California, Santa Barbara, and invited Maria Farandouri to
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So, is this how your acquaintance with Greece began?
Jimmy hosted a special gathering at his house where I saw Maria sitting across the room. I remember feeling embarrassed to talk to her because I didn't know Greek, but some of her musicians spoke English and told me she was a very great artist. The next night, we attended her concert, and I was blown away by her voice, her power, and her artistry. The following summer, I had a concert at the Lycabettus Theater in Athens and invited her to accompany me in a song. We became very close friends and planned to do a special project together one day. What do you remember from the historic concert at Herodion in 2010?
I remember the smooth stones of the theater and the realization that many great men had walked the same place for centuries. I recall the semi-circle of seats rising up to the Acropolis. The concert was a blend of my own music, some Byzantine songs,
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and several pieces by Mikis Theodorakis. I had the great honor of meeting this prolific conductor at his home a few days earlier, and it was a privilege to have him sit in front of me at the concert. It was an exciting experience.
But you had visited Greece before this concert?
My first concert in Greece was at Lycabettus in 2002. I had never performed in Greece before, so I wasn't sure who would attend. It was a full moon night, but at the beginning of the concert, it was very dark. As the moon rose, it illuminated the mountain, and high up on the rocks, as far as I could see, were people who hadn't managed to get a ticket. They had climbed up to hear the concert from a moonlit point. That was amazing.
Where do you find inspiration for new creations after so many years in the music industry?
When I'm not on tour and performing, I thrive in solitude and nature. I hike in the mountains and swim. I'm a dreamer who looks to the sky and sees hope for the future. This, along with a lifetime of experience, comes through in my music.
What has been the most significant moment of your career?
This is a tough question, but it was when I survived a near-death experience. Survival and recovery led me to rededicate myself to the homegrown American art, jazz, and to try to contribute to humanity. To make a better world. What places do you love in Greece?
I love Ithaca and the countryside along the Peloponnese. I have visited the Temple of Apollo, Delphi, Epidaurus, and Hydra,
QUARTET»: JASON MORAN, CHARLES LLOYD, LARRY GRENADIER AND ERIC HARLAND
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“I HAD THE GREAT HONOR OF MEETING THE PROLIFIC CONDUCTOR MIKIS THEODORAKIS”
which are rich in beauty and history. I still have a lot to discover. Which musicians will be with you at Herodeion in July?
I'm coming to Athens with the amazing "Sky Quartet" featuring Jason Moran on piano, Larry Grenadier on bass, and Eric Harland on drums. Each one is a genius and a great artist on their instrument, but together, the four of us create something even greater. Jason and Eric were with me at the first Herodion concert - I know they are very excited to return and to be joined by Maria Farandouri and the wonderful Sokratis Sinopoulos on the lyre. Sokratis is an extremely intuitive artist and brings so much to the music.
What other surprises do you have in store for us?
The concert will feature a combination of my own music, including pieces from my new Blue Note Records album, "The Sky Will Still Be There Tomorrow", along with songs by Mikis Theodorakis and some arrangements by Sokratis of ancient women's poetry introduced by Maria. It is a beautiful gift to Athens!
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BY PANTELIS GATOS
«I’ve got a bike, you can ride it if you like. It’s got a basket, a bell that rings and things to make it look good»…
VACATION MEANS TAKING A PAUSE. It signifies rest, mental and physical health, and overall wellbeing. Let’s set aside our car for a few days, as Greece provides not only excellent cycling terrain but also the opportunity for a sustainable, cost-effective, and environmentally friendly holiday.
Join us for a unique experience on four of the best Greek islands for relaxed or adventurous bike tours. As the Pink Floyd song goes, ‘‘I’ve got a bike, you can ride it if you like. It’s got a basket, a bell that rings, and things to make it look good...’’
ΚΕΦΑΛΟΣ / KEFALOS
ΚΩΣ / KOS
KNOWN as the “bicycle island” for years, Kos has officially been declared a Bike Friendly destination. Not only do its residents predominantly use bicycles to get around, but in recent years, there has been a significant rise in cycling tourists and certified hotels carrying the “Bike friendly” label.
Exploring the island by bike is incredibly enjoyable, whether taking mountainous paths through Plaka Forest or Tsoukalaria Forest or riding along the coast from Faros Beach to Psalidi Beach.
CHIOS boasts dozens of cycling routes designed to explore the island’s most enigmatic corners, including its mountains and ravines. Recognized with the “Bike friendly” label, the island has seen a flourishing of cycling tourism. Recommended routes include journeys to Nea Moni monastery, Agioi Pateres monastery, Mt. Provatas, and Retsinadika. For the more daring cyclists, the annual Chios Brevet event challenges riders to complete the entire 200-kilometer length of the island.
ΜΕΣΤΑ / MESTA ΑΓΙΑ
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/ LEROS
LEROS caters to cyclists of all levels, including mountain bike enthusiasts, as the first Greek island recognized as Bike Friendly in 2020. For accessible routes, head from Merikia Beach to Xirokambos Beach. For those seeking panoramic vistas from high viewpoints, challenge yourself with the demanding ascent to Platanos village and Agia Marina Castle, navigating through adventurous paths and steps. For more information and organized activities, contact the Cycling Association of Leros.
VIEW OF THE MAIN TOWN (CHORA) AND THE VENITIAN CASTLE OF ASTYPALEA (QUERINI CASTLE)
/ AGIA MARINA
QUERINI) / VIEW OF THE MAIN TOWN (CHORA) AND THE VENITIAN CASTLE OF ASTYPALEA (QUERINI CASTLE)
ΑΣΤΥΠΑ ΛΑΊΑ / ASTYPALEA
KNOWN as the “butterfly of the Aegean”, Astypalea has been designated a Landscape of Special Natural Beauty and serves as a model island in green transition and electrification efforts. It’s a top choice for environmentally conscious tourists and cycling fans alike. Explore the island’s pristine beaches, picturesque villages, and rocky hills - with the highest peak reaching over 400m - with classic or electric bikes available across the island. Recommended routes include leisurely rides to Mikro Vai Beach and Bouka, as well as to cultural sites like Panagia Tou Thoma monastery and the caves of Drakontospilio. Don’t miss landmarks such as the Venetian Castle, the Castle of Agios Ioannis, and the caves of Vatses, Vathy, and Analipsi.
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