FOOD & DRINK | feature
Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant
One of the few hotel rooftops that truly offer 360° panoramic view of Bangkok by Fha Kanch
T
he rooftop restaurant of Banyan Tree Bangkok, named after Alfred Hitchcock’s classic thriller holds an outlook of Bangkok, a determined four-course set menu (B4,700 per person; B6,100 for wine pairing), and spot-on hospitality mindset. Recently renovated Vertigo & Moon Bar possess both riverscape and cityscape without being blocked by nearby edifices. In spite of the inevitable strong wind that might make one think twice before wearing short skirts, letting hair flow loose or taking a chance of precipitation, the spirit of this restaurant and bar is worth a visit. Spotting clear sky; sunset and twilight or not, lift off to Moon Bar
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before dinner time for the Moon Walk glass balcony addition and signature cocktails such as Vertigo Sunset (B670++) and Moon Romance (B690++ only for guests in couples celebrating special occasions) that can be made non alcoholic (B470++) upon request and still maintain a full taste. Moving to a dining table in Vertigo area that almost perceives the surroundings as equally as any spot, a cold amuse bouche of shredded crab meat topped with julienne cucumber is served. Without much seasoning, it is easy to grasp the raw flavour of the ocean combined with the freshness of the garnish. Three types of warm small French bread
rolls then arrive underneath a napkin blanket alongside extra virgin olive oil already united with balsamic vinegar. Soon, the first course lands: smoked salmon with fine fat line dressed in caustic orange condiment, balanced out by mellow avocado pâté, and accompanied by petite crispy black bread drizzled with olive oil. The rich soothing chowder follows, gently drowning a pile of rotisserie chicken, potato, carrot and corn brunoise while leaving me looking forward to the upcoming dish. Leading up to the main course is a nectarous portion of blueberry palate cleanser which is more of an ice cream than a sorbet. The sea bass fillet is precisely cooked and seasoned with brittle surfaced skin and brown coloration; no detectable bones throughout. Toothsome palm potatoes, basil pea purée and asparagus slaw on the side compliment the pull-apart fish and the buttery bechamel by not overpowering the hearty main ingredient. Another option for the main course is, USDA prime beef sirloin presented with bulky hand-cut potatoes, cherry tomato au gratin, grilled asparagus and bordelaise jus. The meal concludes with playfully adorned, light and spongy Valrhona chocolate fondant plated with strong, peppery honey butter cream and cinnamon ice cream. Other highlights of the evening involve attentive and detailoriented service: a set of bread replacement when left out for too long, handbag stools availability, and digital menu on iPad due to the dimmed lighting.
Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com