FOOD & DRINK | review
Tenshino
A social dining experience in eccentric aesthetics by Fha Kanch
F
lamboyant French-Japanese setting illustrates the distinctive food and drink execution that fuses between quality imported Asian and European produce. A box of kimono textile chopsticks was rendered for diners to pick their own pair, followed by the tangy salmon sashimi salsa amuse bouche (shuffles daily). It did not take long until the drinks arrived with sustainable paper straws. Signature Umeshu Mojito cocktail (B450; B250 for virgin) geniusly overshadows the sourness of lime juice in typical mojito with saltiness from muddled Japanese plum and conserves the refreshment of mint leaves. Kendama mocktail (B250) in a snifter glass exposes its fruit punch hue with a dash of foam and an orange wedge on the rim. A selection of premium sake from Japan can either be a la carte (B1,000 per bottle) or pairing 68 | SEP/OCT 2019
option (B899 per person). One of the proudly presented Everyday Sharing Platters (B880 net) is Five Monsieur Jean Paul Oysters from Utah beach in France. The ample-size oysters are topped with raspberry-sake ice cream flakes that reverberate the natural salinity and slick firmness of the shellfish. Sushi of the Day (B1,240) comes in five pieces imported directly from Toyosu market in Tokyo: otoro as a highlight, akami, hamachi and ikura, madai, and anago; garnished with microgreens of amaranth, mitsuba, and kiku. The sushi rice has a brown tint due to seasonal red vinegar. Black Truffle Cold Soba (B300) proves that truffles can mingle with wasabi without ruining the aromas. Seared Salmon with Matcha Sauce (B950) divulges a substantial amount of grilled fillet, cooked all the way through leaving browned appetising coloration on the outside; and a
generous satisfyingly lavish thick bed of umami matcha sauce. The fish is sandwiched by layers of fine flavoursome cucumber slices and gently caramelised leeks. Iberico Pluma (B890) from Spain defeats Kurobuta with its moist tenderness and jus, vaguely submerged in fat. It is joined by a wobbly onsen tamago and spiced non spicy Japanese chili paste. On the sweet side, charcoal Azuki-Matcha Mochi (B250) swims in milky matcha sauce and requires no dark sugar syrup. Japanese style tiramisu culminates the meal with lightly whipped cream and sugar crumbs.
Tenshino Japanese Restaurant Bangkok 2F, Pullman Bangkok King Power 8/2 Rangnam Rd Tel: 02 680 9999 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.tenshinobangkok.com bangkok101.com
