TK50 A Taste of Home

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T A S T I N G 50

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T A S T E

K I T C H E N O F

AP LEI CHAU Natural Wonders 自然之美

H O M E

SAI YING POON Sumptuous Homecoming 家宴复兴

COTAI Epicurean Treasure House 宫廷盛宴

A MASTER’S CHOICE Vicky Cheng Michelin Guide Black Pearl Restaurant Guide No. 16 of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Chef-Owner of VEA in Hong Kong Master of Modern Chinese x French Cuisine

www.spiegelau-store.com

T A S T I N G 50

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K I T C H E N

T A S T E

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H O M E

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG

MACAU

Room H2, No 25 Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai

Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong

Rua do Volong n2-a Lazarus Verde Cave A, Macau

上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室

香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号 海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

澳门和隆街 2 号 晶品艺楹地库 A 座

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Mark Hammons

Joey Cheang

Lauriane Lemaire

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 总编辑

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR 区域业务总监

mark@tasting-kitchen.com

joey@tasting-kitchen.com

lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com

CM

MY

CY

CMY

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Violien Ng

Catherine Shaw

Tracy On

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑

Chris Dwyer

DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地总监

Mamie Chen Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Kerri Cheang

IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 编辑部助理

SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

Kate Nicholson

Jonna Chen

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

ACCOUNTS MANAGER 客户经理

Zita Wan Vivian Pun

Inara Sim Joyce Kwok Lucy Morgan Lucy Jenkins

Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑总监

Vicki Williams CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑

ON THE COVER

Photography by Samantha Sin Supreme Decadence: Deep-fried superior stock custard

戈渣是上一世纪中国富裕家庭享用的

was a delicacy enjoyed a century ago by wealthy families

美食。历经岁月、跨越地域的演变，

in China. Evolving over the years and across regions, the

如今由知名粤菜美食家和家宴主办人

dish as prepared today by Dashijie, the noted Cantonese

大师姐烹制的这道菜，被形容为「一

cuisine gastronome and home banquet host extraordi-

口炸上汤」。

naire, is described as “a unique mouthful of superior soup.”

大师姐是其同名香港美食品牌的

The founder of eponymous Hong Kong gourmet food

创始人。她在上汤中加入海胆并制成

brand Dashijie creates the silky smooth custard from a

糕糊，轻撒玉米淀粉后油炸，使戈渣

superior stock base that is jazzed up with sea urchin,

的外皮酥脆雅致，而内里仍如丝绸般

lightly dusted with cornstarch, and deep-fried for an ele-

滑嫩。

gantly crispy exterior.

Read more starting on page 48

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翻阅第48页，了解更多关于戈渣的 故事。

GROUP ADVERTISING 广告查询 sales@tasting-kitchen.com SUBSCRIPTIONS 订阅查询 subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com TRANSLATION SERVICES 翻译服务 Babel Communications jonna@babel.com.tw PRINTING 印刷 Apex Print Limited 泰业印刷有限公司

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2022 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen and our fiftieth issue, A Taste of Home.

Chinese New Year is a time for family gatherings and honored culinary traditions. In our cover story, we spend a day with someone who is a master of both, renowned home banquet chef Teresa Yiu, also known as Dashijie.

During a prolific month last fall, Yiu prepared a series of five epic feasts, served on stunning bespoke RUYI tableware and shared with some of the region’s most discerning gourmands.

Yiu’s dishes are full of flavor and also rich with story, from the age-old traditions behind them to the history of their ingredients, from memories of how culinary techniques were mastered to fond recollections of the many friends with whom she has savored her final creations.

A Chinese New Year banquet is traditionally served at a round table, symbolizing harmony and togetherness. When it is prepared by a master like Yiu, it also represents the circle of time. With the spinning of the lazy Susan at its center, the table’s succession of honored guests changes over months and years and decades, but the pride of tradition and love of family endure.

Happy Chinese New Year.

亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。来到第五十期，我们记录了「家的味道」。 农历新年不仅是阖家团圆的时节，更是展现烹饪传统的时机。在本刊封面故事中，我们 与人称大师姐的麦丽敏共度一天，亲身见识她为举办一场宾主尽欢的家宴，所投入的时间和心 血。 去年秋季，大师姐为五场家宴准备了琳琅满目的丰盛菜式，搭配一系列为家宴设计的「如 意」餐具，精致程度让一众饕客赞不绝口。 家宴中的每道料理皆风味十足，而每道菜的传统，所用食材的历史背景，每种料理手法 蕴含的回忆，也有着丰富精彩的故事。她与一班亲朋好友，共享一桌佳肴，分享美食故事，留 下一段段美好的回忆。 每逢新年，大家会围着圆桌用餐，象征和谐与团结。在大师姐的家宴上，这张圆桌也代 表着时光与岁月的循环。餐桌中央的转盘持续转动，随年月流转，桌边宾客不断更替，但团圆 的传统与天伦之乐将一直流传。 农历新年快乐！

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

12 Beautiful Flavors • 18 Form Meets Function • 22 State-0f-the-Art Surfaces • 26 Timeless Elegance 28 Somewhere Special • 30 Tradition Restored • 34 Natural Wonders • 48 Sumptuous Homecoming 58 Road to Sichuan • 64 Epicurean Treasure House • 88 In Tune • 94 A Classic Returns • 102 Perfect Blend

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108 Pure Inspiration • 110 Approachable Sophistication • 114 Shared Philosophy 118 Unexpected Harmony • 122 Setting Sail Again • 124 Relaxed Meets Refined • 128 Plant-Based Revolution 132 Star-Studded Seafood • 134 One Singular Sensation • 136 Winning Lamb

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ART & FOOD

「食」逢艺术

beautiful flavors A chef, consultant, and food designer combines elements of culture, art, and science in his unique culinary creations.

BY ROBERT BURKLEY

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“Good food is not just something we see, but something we experience with all our senses.

好的食物不仅仅要用眼睛去感受， 而是要用我们所有的 感官去全面体验。”

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COURTESY OF GUZMAN (2 + PRECEDING PAGE )

ART & FOOD

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ART & FOOD

“I continue to dedicate my life to finding beautiful flavors, and this keeps me continually learning and searching.

我会毕生致力于寻找美味， 这也促使我不断地学习和探索。”

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“PEOPLE SAY THAT GOOD FOOD is first a visual feast,” says

「有人说，好的食物首先是一场视觉上的盛宴。好

David Guzman. “Good food is not just something we see, but something we experience with all our senses, but it goes without saying that the visual aspect is the most direct and plays a main role in how we judge food. We usually guess how it tastes from this, whether it will take our taste buds on a pleasant journey or bring a new challenge. Based on my years of experience in the industry, I think the appearance of food is crucial.”

Guzman’s experience in the industry was well underway at age twenty-six, when he was chef and manager at Michelin-starred Koldo Royo on the island of Mallorca. At the same time, he was managing several restaurants of the La Pedrera Group. As part of a team of twelve “very passionate” chefs, his search for innovation and perfection often led to sixteen-hour days. “Only in this way could the customer understand what we were trying to transmit,” he says.

When asked who has made the biggest impact on his culinary style, Guzman doesn’t hesitate: “I’m lucky to have worked with many amazing chefs, but I feel that the person who has had the most influence on my career and life is Dieter Müller. He taught me that in one’s work, one must think and consider. Every detail has its meaning, from washing the vegetables to cutting the salmon.”

His eventual move from Europe to Asia has opened new opportunities. “I used to live in the middle of the Mediterranean,” he says.

“Deep blue waters would wash up on the shores of the Balearic Islands. It was a very beautiful and peaceful place. I had a chance to come to Shanghai, and the city’s culture, art, and history all attracted me. I really love the pace of life here, so I decided to stay and create an event and consulting company.” Future plans are also taking shape: “I hope to share my discoveries with others. This is why I’ve been working on a David Guzman line of products.”

His book The Art of Food Design , published last year in Shanghai, serves as a manifesto of his approach. “For a dish to connect with a customer on a deeper level is not so easy,” he says. “It requires a heart connection between the food and the customer. Everything we do with our ingredients and dining ware is to try to create this emotional connection. The tablecloth, the utensils, the wine glasses, the atmosphere at the table, the type of restaurant – all of this has to be considered.”

To Guzman, the dinner plate is a drawing board on which careful use is made of each ingredient’s texture, color, shape, and structure to find balance between taste and sight. “I really enjoy learning at galleries, which are a source of inspiration for me. Inspiration is all around us and will inadvertently find us. I continue to dedicate my life to finding beautiful flavors, and this keeps me continually learning and searching.”

的食物不仅仅要用眼睛去感受，而是要用我们所

TK | a taste of home

有的感官去全面体验。不过毫无疑问，视觉上的 感受往往是最直观的，而且直接决定着我们对食 物的判断。我们通常以食物的外观去揣测它的味 道，猜想它到底能为我们的舌尖带来愉悦美妙的 旅程，还是带来前所未有的挑战。根据我多年来 在餐饮业界的经验，我相信食物的外观是至关重 要的。 」David Guzman 这样说道。

David 在餐饮业界资历丰富，在 26 岁时便已 经以行政主厨的身份掌管米其林星级餐厅「Koldo ， 同时亦管理 La Pedrera 集团旗下多家餐厅。 Royo」 因为当时 David 隶属一个极其狂热的十二人厨师 团队，所以他为了追求精益求精并不断创新，经 「唯有如此，才能 常一天工作 16 个小时。他说 ： 将我们真正的想法传达给客人。 」 问及谁在料理风格上对他影响最深，David 亳不犹豫： 「我曾有幸和许多优秀的厨师一起工作， 但对我的事业和人生影响最大的人是迪特 · 穆勒， 他教导我工作时必须不断思考，从洗菜到切三文 鱼，每个环节都有它的意义。 」 从欧洲移居亚洲的这个最终决定，为这位主 厨拓展了许多新机会。他说 ： 「以前我住在地中海 中部地区，湛蓝的海水冲刷着巴利阿里群岛的海 岸，那是一个既美丽又宁静的地方。一次机缘巧 合我来到上海，被这座城市的文化、艺术和历史 文明深深吸引，我也很喜欢这里的生活节奏，因 此便决定来这里生活，并创立一家活动举办与咨 询公司。 」主厨对于未来的计划也逐步成型 ： 「我 希望能将我的发现分享给他人，因此便有了『谷 」 滋蔓 DAVID GUZMAN』的主厨臻选系列产品。 主厨的著作《星厨食物造型美学》去年于上 海发行， 书中记录了他的料理心得及方法， 他说： 「一 道菜要想深入食客的内心，并没有那么容易，这需 要在食物和食客之间建立一种情感上的联系。所以 我们尝试通过桌布、餐具、高脚杯、氛围装饰等等 元素，架起连接食物与食客之间的那座桥梁。 」 对 David 而言，餐盘就如同画板。他擅长透 与味觉的平衡。他说 ： 「我很喜欢去画廊学习，它 是我其中一个灵感来源。 其实灵感常在我们附近， 会在不经意之间和我们撞个满怀。我会毕生致力于 寻找美味，这也促使我不断地学习和探索。 」

COURTESY OF GUZMAN

过食材的纹理、颜色、形状、结构，来达到视觉

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INSPIRED LIVING

极致工艺 品味不凡

form meets function Gessi’s Art for Chefs line of kitchen faucets offers the ultimate in style and performance.

COURTESY OF GESSI ( 7)

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INSPIRED LIVING

evocative contours infuse the kitchen ambience with a sense of well-being and balance that only nature can provide.

Proton’s perfect proportions and pure shapes transcend time and trends. The collection’s graceful and strongly identifiable profile is born from the melding of organic and geometric forms. Its highly original design makes Proton equally suited to contemporary and classic interiors and gives any kitchen a sense of serenity.

The Officine Gessi and Officine Gessi V collections feature fresh designs with an industrial-chic vibe. Officine Gessi favors finishes with a deliberately “raw” look and forms, surfaces, and materials that recall “production” spaces.

This collection has been enriched with the new “V” series that revisits classic models of early twentieth-century industrialization in a modern key.

With residential spaces becoming increasingly fluid and the kitchen area often open to the living room, Gessi’s Su&Giù collection offers an elegant and practical solution. Its concealable faucets can be pulled out when needed or “disappear” against the sink when not in use.

Chic woven steel meets vivid color in the Gessi 316 collection. This new line of decorative and tactile semi-industrial products features elegant motifs “engraved” on steel combined with smooth, rubbery, colorful hoses that provide a delightful contrast with the engraving’s three-dimensionality.

Embracing traditional craftsmanship and the American spirit, Inciso represents a new visual language in the contemporary kitchen. Designed for Gessi by David Rockwell, its forms suggest those of early plumbing through the refined architectural sensibility of modern metalwork.

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意大利顶级龙头及卫浴配件品牌 GESSI 创立 于 1992 年，结合传奇工艺与创新思维，打 破大众对水龙头的既定印象，打造外观亮 眼、构造精密的龙头产品。 GESSI 追 求 产 品 设 计 与 技 术 的 卓 越， 以精密制程和可持续的生产理念闻名全 球。GESSI 以 雅 致 极 简 设 计， 打 造 Art for

Chefs 系列的十二款厨房专用水龙头系列 ： Inedito、Stelo、Proton、Proton S、Officine Gessi、Officine V、Fisso、Su&Giù、Mesh、 Gessi 316、Happy 和 Inciso。每一系列皆追 求极致完美，各自风格迥异、别具一格。

Inedito 系列以几何造型为发想，再现 极简主义精神。前卫造型展现了金属的坚实 和线条的俐落，将经典风格融入厨房空间。

Stelo 系列以流线形构造为主要特色，

造型兼具美学和功能性。温顺的曲线设计让 人即使身处厨房，亦能想起大自然的和谐与 欣欣向荣。 优雅而独特的 Proton 系列，融合了有 机和几何造型，追求完美比例和简洁线条， 创造永恒经典。独家原创设计符合现代和古 典两种厨房风格，为空间更添一丝稳重。

Officine Gessi 系列的造型、表面、选 材上刻意营造「工厂」的「粗犷」感，展 现时尚工业风格。此系列延伸出的 Officine

Gessi V 系列，选用二十世纪早期工业风经 典元素，再造现代工业风格。

Su&Giù 系列迎合开放式厨房、居住空 间格局多样化等特性，采用隐藏式水龙头设 计，水龙头在不需使用时可收纳，兼具美观 与实用性。 全新上线的 Gessi 316 系列将工业风格 结合雅致图腾装饰，金属水管外包彩色橡胶 软管，手感滑顺、色彩缤纷，和基座雕饰形 成鲜明对比。

Inciso 系 列 结 合 传 统 工 艺 和 美 国 精 神，展现现代厨房新美学。此系列由设计师

David Rockwell 主理，从早期水管的概念出 发，展现现代金属工艺的结构之美。

COURTESY OF GESSI (5)

GUIDED BY A LEGACY of Italian craftsmanship and a vision of innovation, Gessi was founded in 1992 on a revolutionary idea: transforming the familiar faucet into a designer object with sophisticated form and flawless function.

Today, Gessi’s meticulous and sustainable production methods and groundbreaking business philosophy have made it into a worldwide brand synonymous with superior design and technology.

Art for Chefs, Gessi’s concept line for the kitchen, is characterized by superlative products known for their elegant minimalist design. Twelve highstyle collections, each speaking a distinctive creative language, comprise the Art for Chefs line: Inedito, Stelo, Proton, Proton S, Officine Gessi, Officine V, Fisso, Su&Giù, Mesh, Gessi 316, Happy, and Inciso.

Inedito reimagines the minimalist ethos with inspiration from fundamental geometric shapes. Based on solid proportions and clean lines, this avant-garde collection infuses kitchen interiors with a timeless purity.

Stelo experiments with a new aesthetic and functional language, an organic style inspired by the sinuous shapes of natural elements. Its soft and

PRESENTED BY ANTERIC GROUP

八面玲珑

state-of-the-art surfaces Anteric Group offers an exclusive portfolio of sintered compact and natural stone materials for the ultimate in customized contemporary designs.

H E A D Q U A R T E R E D I N H O N G KO N G , Anteric Group specializes in the importation, distribution, and custom installation of leading brands of luxury surface materials, products that give customers the freedom to fully realize their highest design aspirations.

With offices and partners in Mainland China, Singapore, Europe, and Australia and with over twenty years’ experience in the building industry, Anteric Group is driven by its dynamic management and marketing teams. The company was founded on the vision of extending its reach across the Asia Pacific region to meet the most demanding of customer requirements and offer its clients distribution, services, and design solutions related to standout products that are environmentally friendly and unique in their field.

Anteric Group’s warehouses in Hong Kong and Mainland China, along with its fabrication center in Mainland China and fabrication partners in Hong Kong, serve clients with customized kitchen countertops, vanity tops, and furniture as well as cut-to-size flooring, cladding, and dry/mechanical façade materials.

Among Anteric Group’s offerings are natural quartz surfaces by Cambria. A worldwide industry leader, familyowned Cambria brings American craftsmanship and a dedication to quality to its entire range of products.

Cambria surfaces are made from pure natural quartz, binder, and pigment. They never need sealing, polishing, or reconditioning, and because quartz is one of the hardest minerals known, they are nonabsorbent, resistant to stains and bacteria, and certified safe for food prep areas. The company is committed to environmental responsibility and sustainability, operating its own quartz mine where sites are restored after extraction and all power is hydroelectric. Cambria’s facilities recycle 100 percent of the water used in production.

Anteric Group also distributes the acclaimed Porcelanosa Xtone line of large-format sintered compact slabs, ideal

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总部设于香港的 Anteric 集团，首 要业务为进口、分销多个世界级品 牌的奢华表面材质，也能按顾客需 求提供客制化装设服务，其产品能 充分满足顾客对顶尖设计的渴求。

Anteric 集 团 在 内 地、 新 加 坡、欧洲与澳洲都有办公室与合作 伙伴，在建筑业已有超过二十年经 验，公司的管理与行销团队更是动 力十足。Anteric 集团成立时的愿 景，是将业务范围扩展至全亚太地 区， 借此满足顾客最高标准的要求， 并提供产品的分销、服务及设计方 案。 这些顶尖产品在业界独树一 格，并符合环保标准。

Anteric 集团的仓库设于香港 和内地，在内地设有制造中心，在 香港也有合作的制造厂。公司提供 的产品包含客制化厨房流理台台 面、盥洗台台面和家具，还有按尺 寸切割的地板、包层，以及干墙或 机械式外墙板材。

Anteric 集 团 的 产 品 包 括 Cambria 的天然石英表面板材。作 为全球产业领导者，家族企业经营 的 Cambria 所提供的全系列产品， 皆完美体现美国的精湛工艺及对品 质的追求与坚持。

With Xtone sintered compact surfaces, size is no longer a constraint.

Xtone岩板可按尺寸切 割，切合不同需要。

PRESENTED BY ANTERIC GROUP

Materials like these help Anteric Group to achieve its paramount goal of maximizing customer satisfaction.

这些材质能让Anteric集团实现尽可能提高顾客满意度的目标。

Natural quartz surfaces from Cambria are harder than granite or marble.

Cambria的天然石英版材比花 岗岩及大理石更坚固耐用。

Quartz, one of the hardest minerals known, is nonabsorbent and resistant to stains and bacteria. 石英不吸水、抗污和 抗菌，是目前已知硬 度最高的矿物之一。

Cambria 的表面板材由纯天然石英、黏合 剂与颜料制成，无需填缝、抛光或修整。由于 石英是目前已知硬度最高的其中一种矿物，具 有不吸水、抗污和抗菌的特质，已被证实可用 作烹饪备料区的台面，不会引发任何食品安全 疑虑。Cambria 也致力于维护永续发展，承担 环保责任。他们经营自有的石英矿场，并会在 开采后修复矿区，所有电器都由水力发电，制 造过程中所使用的水也会百分之百回收再用。 同 时，Anteric 集 团 也 分 销 Porcelanosa 集团备受赞誉的 Xtone 大规格岩板系列。针对 优雅、具功能性的设计，这系列产品是理想首

COURTESY OF ANTERIC GROUP (2 + PRECEDING PAGE )

选。这种高性能板材由纯矿物制成，透过先进

for creating a wide array of elegant and functional designs. This highperformance material is made from pure minerals that are sintered, or compacted under high pressure, through an advanced technological process.

The durable surface, 100 percent natural and recyclable, can be used as floor or wall tile and for countertops, sinks, and tables, both indoors and out. Available in more than fifty sophisticated shades, Xtone is zeromaintenance and suitable for high-traffic use. Exceptionally resistant to stains, chemicals, heat and burns, thermal shock, abrasion, water, and UV rays, it is ideal for kitchen applications, where its extremely low absorption rate gives it antibacterial properties that make it completely safe for food contact and processing.

Materials like these help Anteric Group to achieve its paramount goal of maximizing customer satisfaction. The company attributes its success in this area to its talent for choosing the right people who have the kind of commitment that leads to long-term client partnerships. The result has been a series of highly successful projects for a broad range of customers, including some of the region’s leading hotels and restaurants.

Anteric Group was recently selected by Tasting Kitchen for a customized installation at Ocean Table, its stylish private and corporate event space in Ap Lei Chau. With its spectacular harbor views, the venue frequently hosts culinary master classes, workshops, exclusive dinners, and unique dining experiences. It required the type of high-fashion look, advanced materials, and professional design and execution services that Anteric Group is well-known for.

技术在高压下烧结或压制而成。 这种耐用的纯天然表面板材可回收再利 用，拿来制作地板或墙砖，也可用于台面、水 槽或桌面，而且室内或室外皆宜。Xtone 系列 推出超过五十种雅致的色选，完全无需保养维 护，经得起频繁使用。这种材质对污渍、化学 品、高温与烧烫、热冲击、磨损、水与紫外线 有优异的抵抗力，相当适合应用在厨房。此外， 这种材质的吸收率低、具有抗菌的性质，完全 符合食品接触与加工方面的卫生标准。 这些材质能让 Anteric 集团实现尽可能提 高顾客满意度的目标。Anteric 集团之所以能 在此领域有此成就，在于他们擅于选贤任能， 招揽投入尽责的员工来与客户缔结长期伙伴关 系。公司多年来替各领域客户完成许多无与伦 比的计画，像是一系列最顶尖的酒店与餐厅的 翻修工程。

Anteric 集 团 近 期 与 Tasting Kitchen (TK) 合 作， 负 责 替 TK 位 于 鸭 脷 洲 的 活 动 场 地

Ocean Table 进行客制化装潢。Ocean Table 拥 有时髦的活动空间及壮观的海洋景观，不少企 业曾在此举办烹饪大师课、研讨会、私人晚宴 及独特的餐饮体验。Ocean Table 需要的时尚 风格、先进材质，以及专业设计与装设执行， 皆是 Anteric 集团最为人熟知的服务特点。

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ART

海上风华

timeless elegance A classic style graces one of Shanghai’s most luxurious hotels.

THE LOBBY OF WANDA REIGN on the Bund in Shanghai is a strikingly original tribute to the twentieth-century architectural style known as Art Deco. Achieving a balance between solemnity and brio, the design in a palate of warm colors offers a complex visual celebration of the style.

Art Deco’s characteristic emphasis on symmetry and angular geometric forms is wonderfully expressed in the slender stone pillars rising along the lobby’s walls, with the four central pillars distinguished by magnolia flower carvings across their corners and by lights that bathe them in a soft glow.

Bronze screens inlaid with honey-colored glazed beads line the walls, their patchwork linear pattern further accentuating the room’s sense of rhythm. The design of the floor mosaic was inspired by the three-hole spade coin of the Warring States period of the fifth century BC, with the motif woven across a repeating vertical tripartite façade.

Further enhancing the ambience of the lofty space is an enormous painting hanging on one wall. The watercolor work, entitled Splendid Orient , by famed Chinese contemporary artist Shi Qi, is a riotous fusion of colors rendered in the traditional textures of Chinese ink paintings. Hovering above all is the lobby’s gold-colored parquet ceiling featuring diamond and square shapes intertwined in a symmetrically repeating array.

The remarkable artistry of the lobby is the work of Wanda Design Institute. The brilliant success of the effort is seen not only in the grandeur of the room’s proportions but also in the smallest details, such as the hand-polished brass fittings echoing the flavor of old Shanghai and the door handles covered in ostrich leather. Myriad lines and textures produce an effect alternating between hard and soft that further heightens the three-dimensional layering of the space. Floral patterns etched into wall lamps are one expression of a theme repeated throughout the hotel, that of Yulan magnolias, Shanghai’s official flower chosen as representative of the spirit of the city.

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The lobby’s soaring central columns are awash in light. 大堂中央伫立的两根石柱在灯光 的映照下，更显威严庄重。 ↖ Design elements evoke the sophisticated chic of the 1920s. 从随处可见的设计元素，窥探二三 十年代浮华、摩登的风格余韵。

COURTESY OF WANDA REIGN ON THE BUND

上海万达瑞华酒店大堂沿袭 20 世纪风行的 Art Deco 装饰风

的金属色出现在眼前，菱形、方形等有规则地平铺开来，打

格，达致庄严与灵动之间的平衡，选用映入眼帘的暖色调带

造出对称的美感。

来奢华的视觉飨宴。 墙面装饰采用 Art Deco 的对称、旋转等处理方式，竖

犹如锦綉殿堂的酒店大堂是万达酒店设计研究院打造的 杰作。艺术性不仅彰显在宏伟处，更可见于细微末节，无论

线条的峰状石柱严谨精细，层层玉兰花玉雕与壁灯搭配契合，

是大门拉手处的鸵鸟皮包材，还是充满做旧复古风格的手工

散发温馨迷人的光晕，有如十里洋场的破晓时分。镶嵌了蜜

打磨的黄铜，均在呼应上海老城的历史韵味。十几种线条和

黄琉璃粒的古铜屏风与之呼应，错落有致的线条突显韵律感。

纹理将自然、柔美、粗犷等多种迥异风格融汇在一起，充满

大堂地砖拼花的灵感来自战国「三孔布币」 ，采用了「纵三

立体感与层次感。壁灯上隐约可见的玉兰花花纹在酒店内随

段」的独特构造。墙面上的巨幅中国画来自当代美术大家石

处可见。玉兰花既是上海的市花，又代表着老上海的精神，

齐的《锦绣东方》 ，以油画笔法呈现传统水墨的质感，恢弘

润物细无声的装饰风格让人们怡情小住，拥有赏心悦目的奢

中衬托出大堂的非凡气度。举目望向天花板，Art Deco 常见

华体验。 a taste of home

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DESIGN

雅致亭阁

somewhere special A charmingly refreshed space at Four Seasons Hotel Macao Cotai Strip becomes a Guangdong-style restaurant with a Lingnan-lifestyle interior.

郁葱热带林叶间的豪华座椅、墙上耀眼的扇形 LUXURIOUSLY DEEP CHAIRS among lush tropical foliage, a striking 金属雕塑、随兴的黄铜鸟笼椅、温馨的欧式壁 fan-like metal sculpture spanning one wall, casual brass birdcage stools, a 炉和光亮的镶木地板，这些元素交织成「晓 cozy European-style fireplace, and lustrous parquet flooring give Xiao Ting 亭」既宁静又怀旧的憩意氛围，与澳门给人的 an inviting ambience that is tranquil, a touch nostalgic, and utterly Macau. 印象不谋而合。 And it’s also hard to resist a menu of dishes like Steamed Cod 菜单上的多款美食也十分考 Medallion with Spicy Hunan Pickled Chili and Chef Ben’s BY 究，像是麻辣鲜香的剁椒蒸鳕鱼和 Grandma’s Pineapple Tart, a delightfully sweet sandwich of KATE NICHOLSON 美味的「嫲嫲凤梨挞」 ，即凤梨挞 pineapple shortbread and ice cream. 配椰子凤梨冰淇淋三文治。 This airy, sumptuous, full-service restaurant is in stark 原先酒廊采用深红扶手皮椅和暗系木质， contrast to the somber lounge that once occupied the space, with its dark 整体环境较为沉稳，而「晓亭」的开幕 wood tones and leather armchairs. 令人耳目一新，餐厅宽敞、豪华，与以往的形 Xiao Ting’s new interior was crafted by JJ Acuna and his team at 象大相径庭。 Bespoke Studios, well-known for its fashionable restaurant refits that 新装潢由 JJ Acuna 与 Bespoke Studios 团 cater to the needs of new-generation diners. 队精心打造。Bespoke Studios 以其满足年轻 The studio’s trendsetting interiors for Miss Lee and Elephant 客群需求的时尚餐厅装潢而闻名，其中香港的 Grounds, for example, are as beloved as the restaurants’ culinary offerings. “Millennials don’t really care about bling-bling,” notes Acuna. “They Miss Lee 和 Elephant Grounds 餐 厅 的 新 潮 室 内设计和料理就备受欢迎。 just care about having an experience, about quality materials, and about

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COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MACAO COTAI STRIP (2)

a feeling of authenticity.” Skipping the glitz might seem counterintuitive in a necessarily luxe five-star hotel like Four Seasons. But looking at the finished result, it seems Acuna and his team got the balance between glamour and of-the-moment relaxation just right.

One challenge lay in the fact that in order for the venue to keep its current licensing, the Bespoke Studio team could not touch the architecture. The porticos, windows, and doors all had to stay in the same place, electricals and plumbing had to remain intact. Wall sconces and chandeliers were switched one for one with fixtures that complement the new design, featuring ash and oak, woven leather, glass, mirrors, and English and Continental textiles. In place of enormous armchairs are cushy sofas, a bar, banquet tables for eight or ten, standard tables, and quiet little corners for two. The seating height is European, allowing simultaneously for comfortable lounging and formal dining.

Even the popular patio has been transformed through clever design, with stylish floor lamps interspersed among resort-style wood-andcanvas furniture.

Against the odds, Acuna and his team have managed to keep the appealing drawing-room feel of the original iteration, creating a restaurant that is welcoming for Four Seasons guests of the ’20s, from that pair of friends getting together for Saturday afternoon tea to a family hosting a dim sum birthday party lunch. Every custom touch combines to leave guests at Xiao Ting with the impression that they’ve arrived at a one-of-a-kind place. “I don’t want to use the word destination, because destination means an end point,” says Acuna. “I just want to say that they’ve landed somewhere special where they can continue having special moments.”

「年轻一代并不追求浮华阔绰， JJ 介绍说 ： 他们在乎体验、质感和真切的感受。 」要在豪华 的五星级酒店中刻意忽略铺张排场，似乎有点格 格不入，但 JJ 和他的团队却巧妙地平衡了奢华和 闲适。 这次改装的最大挑战是为了延续现有的场 地许可，设计团队不能改造建筑本体，柱廊、窗 户和门都必须留在原处，电路水管也要保持原 样，壁灯和枝形吊灯则需要一比一更换，并配上 与新装潢搭配的固定装置。 暗木色调在这个空间曾经随处可见，现在 则由白蜡木和橡木、编织皮革、玻璃、镜子，以 及英式和欧式纺织品取代。大型扶手椅换成舒服 的沙发、酒吧位置、八或十人的餐宴桌、标准用 餐桌和适合双人的安静角落区。座位高度达到欧 式标准，让食客既可放松休憩，也可正式用餐。 深受喜爱的露台位置也经过巧妙设计，漂亮的落 地灯优雅地散布在度假风格的木制帆布家具之 间。 尽管困难重重，JJ 与其团队仍成功打造出 不管是与朋友在星期六下午茶聚，还是享用家 庭庆祝午餐，都能像在客厅般相聚的温馨感觉。 一系列的精心巧思为「晓亭」的宾客带来绝无 仅有的餐饮体验。JJ 说 ： 「我不想用『目的地』 这个词来形容『晓亭』 ，因为它意味着终点。我 会说他们来到了一个可以一直享受特别时刻的 独特地方。 」 a taste of home

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风华再现

tradition restored A landmark Hong Kong restaurant gets a reverent makeover.

BY CATHERINE SHAW

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COURTESY OF YUNG KEE (3)

DESIGN

“I GREW UP VISITING YUNG KEE,” says architect William Lim,

建筑师 William Lim 表示 ： 「我从小就经常到镛记吃

“and knew it was important for us not to reinvent the interior but to preserve its character while updating it for a new generation of diners.”

Virtually every Hong Konger who is fond of traditional charcoalroasted goose has been to Yung Kee, the venerable dining institution that started life in 1936 as an open-air dai pai dong stall operated by

饭，也知道此次改装的重点不在于内部装潢的重新

Kam Shui-fai. It opened its doors in Wellington Street in 1964 and, thanks to warm, welcoming, slightly chaotic interiors and classic Cantonese cuisine, it has been one of the city’s most beloved eateries ever since.

Hong Kong-based Lim, who recently led the renovation of the family-owned five-story restaurant, cherishes memories of dining

改造，而是在保留特色的同时，为新世代的宾客提 供更舒适的餐饮体验。 」 钟情于传统炭烤烧鹅美味的香港人，几乎都 曾去过由甘穗辉于 1936 年创立、以大排档起家的 老字号食肆「镛记」 。镛记在 1964 年于威灵顿街开 业时，即以温馨、热情的招待及稍带凌乱美的摆设 和经典的粤式美馔，跃升成为全港最受喜爱的食肆 之一，至今声名不坠。

William 负责带领改装这间家族营运的五层楼 餐厅，生长于香港的他，不仅珍惜过往与家人在此 用餐的回忆，至今他也会携家带眷、祖孙三代一起 a taste of home

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DESIGN

Yung Kee’s elegant first-floor dining room 餐厅一楼的用餐区装潢典雅

COURTESY OF YUNG KEE (5)

there with his parents and siblings, and it’s still where he and his children and grandchildren celebrate special occasions or go for a dim sum lunch.

Lim’s architectural studio, CL3, was responsible for refurbishing the restaurant’s ground-floor dining space in 2015 and, in anticipation of Yung Kee’s upcoming eightieth anniversary in 2022, for the recent facelift focused on renewing the kitchen and first and second floors.

CL3’s careful preservation and creative reinvention retain distinctive interior elements, including the original grand staircase, “goose pond,” traditional Chinese antiques and art, and glossy green 1970s ceramic wall tiles, while adding modern comforts and an improved layout.

Heritage interiors inevitably reveal a few surprises. Removing the carpet on the first floor uncovered the original Italian handmade floral tiles. Although some had been damaged over the years, Lim realized they would add a wonderfully authentic touch to the dining room and went back to the drawing board. The entire floor was dismantled and redone using the salvaged tiles with new carpeting around the perimeter.

Yung Kee’s redesigned teahouse-influenced interior was inspired

by Hong Kong-set films like The World of Susie Wong and In the Mood

for Love . It features a new bar, decorative Yung Kee signage, retrostyle ceiling lights, and hand-painted wallpaper with flowers and butterflies inspired by the embroidered cheongsams of a famed Yung Kee patron of years gone by, renowned singer Teresa Teng.

The Dragon and Phoenix Stage that holds pride of place in the restaurant’s second-floor Grand Dining Hall has also been restored. Its original ornately carved dragons, phoenix, flowers, and trees in three shades of gold, created by the same artisans who restored the Imperial Palace in Beijing, were preserved, and new lighting and comfortable furnishings were installed. “Yung Kee’s character has evolved over the decades,” says Lim, “and I wanted to honor that history while creating an opportunity for younger generations to share in that, while also making their own new traditions and memories.”

前往镛记庆祝特别节日，或随兴来一顿点心午餐。

William 的建筑事务所 CL3 在 2015 年已承揽 过餐厅地面层用餐区的翻新工程，如今再次担下 重任，负责这次针对厨房及一、二楼的装修，以 迎接镛记于 2022 年即将到来的八十周年庆典。 CL3 保留了原本的大阶梯、鹅池及传统中国 古董与艺术品，以及七零年代的釉亮绿瓷墙砖等， 以传承传统的用心及创新的装修带出餐厅特色， 内部设计也增加了现代感元素及调整了动线，提 升用餐的舒适度。 翻修内装的过程中，团队发现了不少惊喜。 他们在移除一楼地毯时，意外发现了底下隐藏的 原装意大利手工花砖。即使有部分因不敌岁月流 逝而有些破损，但 William 相信它们定能为饭厅 增添传统氛围，因此 William 着手重新设计。 最 后，地板被悉数拆除，以完好的花砖重塑，并在 周边铺上新的地毯。 镛记的新装潢展现茶楼风格，以香港经典电 影《苏丝黄的世界》及《花样年华》为灵感，亦 新设了融入镛记金漆招牌的时尚酒吧及复古顶灯 等。而饰以花卉蝴蝶的刺绣壁画，灵感源于已故 知名歌手及镛记忠实客人邓丽君穿着的刺绣旗袍。 镛记最为自豪的二楼龙凤大礼堂，也在此次 的改装之中保留。这里摆放着龙、凤、牡丹花、 松树等精饰原木雕塑，当初由来自北京的大师团 以三種不同深淺程度的金箔制作，今次翻新期间 进行清潔后，在新照明及舒适装潢的衬托下更显 「镛记的特色在过去数 熠熠生辉。William 表示 ： 十年间不断演进，我希望在纪念这段光荣历史之 余，也让年轻一代参与，让他们得以创造属于自 己的新传统与回忆。 」 a taste of home

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自然之美

NATURAL WONDERS Maison Perrier-Jouët partners with creative artists at Ocean Table to immerse guests in a multisensory celebration of nature.

BY MAMIE CHEN DISH PORTRAITS BY SAMANTHA SIN NATURE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUSTIN HUI

“ W H E N W E G O O U T S I D E in

nature, something changes inside ourselves,” begins the lead-in note for “The Art of Revealing Nature” dining experience at Hong Kong’s Ocean Table. The event is Maison Perrier-Jouët’s latest presentation in an ongoing series of collaborations that draw from the worlds of wine, gastronomy, and the arts.

Honoring deep-rooted philosophical values established over two hundred years ago by founders Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose-Adélaïde Jouët, the Maison brings together Chef Jaakko Sorsa, photographer Justin Hui, and harpist Yee Lam (Elam) Lai to present an unforgettable evening.

“We invite you,” they teasingly propose, “to lose yourself in nature so that you might find yourself in nature.”

The experience is divided into six chapters of specially curated pairings of wine, food, photography, and music that pay homage to the varied aspects of the natural environment, from sky and sea to forest and land.

Sorsa’s dishes feature a mix of ingredients and cooking methods inspired by familiar settings. For the Sky course, he whips up a light and airy potato foam that conjures fluffy cumulus clouds. For the Forest course, he recreates a walk through a Finnish grove, complete with wood pigeon, chanterelles, and wild lingonberries.

Hui’s black and white photographs play with scale, aspect ratio, and the juxtaposition of light and shade to deconstruct natural elements and explore their textures, patterns, and minutiae. And Lai’s musical pieces cleverly employ rhythm, melody, harmony, and color tone to evoke a medley of nature’s attributes.

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PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

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THE FOREST Wood pigeon, chanterelles, wild lingonberries, thyme broth 斑鸠、鸡油菇、野生越橘、百里香清汤

Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé 2012

Henriette Renié – “Angélus” from Feuillets d’album 享丽埃特 · 雷尼《Angélus》

“When I think of a forest, I think of a Finnish forest,” says Sorsa.

“For me, this dish is just like walking in my forest – that’s why I added mushrooms and lingonberries. But the wood pigeon is from the UK and the chanterelles are from France, so people can relate to their own experience in a forest anywhere in the world.”

Jaakko 说 ： 「说到森林，我马上就想到芬兰的森林。这道菜就像 在重现我在森林漫步的情景，因此我使用了林中常见的蘑菇和越橘。 然而，我也选用了英国的斑鸠和法国的鸡油菇，这是希望宾客都能想起 他们在世上任一森林中漫步的独特回忆。 」

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PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

Harpist Elam Lai, 「 当 我 们 走 进 大 自 然， 内 心 也 The collective creative contributions of Sorsa, Hui, and Chef Jaakko Sorsa, 会 随 之 产 生 变 化。 」在香港私 Lai serve to awaken and heighten all five senses, encouragand photographer 人 用 餐 空 间 Ocean Table 举 办 ing guests to rediscover and reconnect with the elements Justin Hui 的 The Art of Revealing Nature of nature around them. “We each extend our own very 竖琴家黎依蓝， 多感官餐饮体验由此引言拉开 specific interpretation of nature,” says Hui. “What should be 主厨Jaakko Sorsa 序 曲。 这 是 法 国 香 槟 Perrierreally interesting for guests is the synergy in experiencing 及摄影师Justin Hui Jouët 巴黎之花近期最新推出、 them all together.” 以世界佳酿、美食与艺术为灵 Sorsa’s culinary philosophy is profoundly influenced by 感的一系列美食飨宴。 his Finnish background and lifelong love of the natural world. “In Finland,” 为了向创办人 Pierre-Nicolas Perrier 及 he says, “we’re taught to respect nature, to be in nature, and even to colRose-Adélaïde Jouët 于两百年前缔造的品牌 lect things from nature. It’s very normal to fish in the lakes and forage from 哲 学 致 敬， 酒 庄 邀 集 了 主 厨 Jaakko Sorsa、 the forests.” As a result, his natural style of cooking reflects the clean and 摄影师 Justin Hui 及竖琴家黎依蓝 (Elam) 齐 authentic flavors of well-sourced, high-quality ingredients. 聚一堂， 为宾客带来一场难忘的晚宴。 他们说： By way of example, the chef points to the delicate crustacean promi「我们邀请大家莅临，在自然中释放自己，在 nently placed at the center of his Ocean course: “This langoustine from 自然中重拾自我。 」 Iceland tastes so good just by itself. I only need to cook it lightly for ten 菜单包括六个章节，向大自然的天空、 seconds. On top, there’s a touch of finger lime, known as vegetarian caviar, 海 洋、 森 林 和 陆 地 致 敬， 并 以 精 心 设 计 的 for some fresh acidity, and sea grapes – they’re like caviar too – for some 美 酒、 佳 肴、 照 片 及 音 乐 与 之 搭 配。 主 厨 salty seaweed flavor.” a taste of home

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THE SKY Aligning with the theme of the course are hints of ocean-like salinity and sapidity in the Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs selected to pair with it.

The Champagne’s crisp, mineral freshness balances the rich sea urchin and melt-in-the-mouth silkiness of the well-marbled Ōra king salmon. Made exclusively from the Maison’s emblematic chardonnay grapes, Blanc de Blancs showcases Perrier-Jouët’s distinctive floral aromas and citrus notes that enliven the senses with a bright vibrancy.

Hui’s photo seascape draws the guests further into the Ocean theme.

Any contextual elements that might provide a sense of scale are purposely excluded from the image. Has he captured massive swells churning and crashing against a rocky coast or the white water spilling down the face of a gentle wave on a slow journey up the shore? “I chose this photo so that when guests taste the seafood, drink the wine, listen to the music, and gaze at the image, they’ll almost feel that they’re immersed in the ocean.”

In approaching the project, Hui instinctively avoided panoramic landscapes in favor of close-ups that lend an abstract quality to nature. An intimate examination of rock striations reveals a miniature landscape that in isolation becomes epically grand. A photo of tree trunks and branches is an insightful study in shadow and light. “Abstraction gives us fresh awareness of details we might otherwise overlook,” he says. “By deconstructing our existing associations with nature, we can rebuild it with the new perspectives we’ve gained.”

Guests’ thoughtful meditations on Hui’s Ocean photograph are deepened by Lai’s accompanying performance of “Arabesque No. 1 in E major” by Claude Debussy. “After playing a piece with a very light and high register for

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Jaakko 的料理融入家乡芬兰的各种食材与烹 饪方式，在以「天空」为主题的料理中，他 以清爽轻盈的烤薯泡沫形塑松软的积云，而 「森林」则以斑鸠、鸡油菇及野生越橘重建芬 兰森林，让宾客漫步其中。 摄影师 Justin 的黑白照片运用不同的比 例与光影反差，解构自然元素，进而捕捉其 质感、纹理与细节。Elam 的演奏则慧黠地透 过音韵、旋律、和声及曲调色彩，重现自然 之美。

Jaakko、Justin 与 Elam 携手合作，希望 唤醒与提升宾客的五感体验，鼓励他们重新 探索及连结生活中的自然元素。Justin 表示 ： 「我们都提升了对自然的认知与了解，而对宾 客而言，能够一次接触到这些元素和谐交融 后的相互效应，应该是十分有趣的体验。 」

Jaakko 的餐饮哲学与他在芬兰的出身及 对大自然的热情息息相关。他说道 ： 「在芬兰， 我们所受的教育是必须敬重自然、融合自然， 并从自然中取材。到湖边钓鱼、在森林里采 食，对我们来说都是稀松平常的事。 」Jaakko 对单纯天然的风味和精选高品质食材的追求， 充分反映在崇尚自然的料理风格上。 他指向置于「海洋」主题料理中央的精 致虾肉，举例道 ： 「这是来自冰岛的海螯虾，

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Roasted potato foam, Kristal caviar, gold 烤薯泡末、鱼子酱、金箔

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut

Jacques de La Presle – “Le Jardin Mouillé” 雅克 · 德拉 · 普雷斯尔《雨之庭》 “It was important for me to reveal a more raw and elemental side of nature,” says Hui, “so that we could focus on details and textures we might otherwise overlook.

The sky is presented with elements of light and shadow – you can see the light coming out, but the darkness can also draw you into a meditative space.” 「对于我而言，探究大自然更原始和基础的 Justin 说 ： 一面非常重要，这让我们更加重视我们忽略的细节和纹理。 天气以光与影的元素呈现，你可以看见透出来的光线， 也有可能被黑暗带进冥想的空间。 」

PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

THE OCEAN

Langoustine, diver scallops, bafun uni sea urchin, Ōra king salmon, wild trout roe, Amalfi lemon hollandaise, tomato jelly, scallop roe powder 海螯虾、扇贝、马粪海胆、Ōra king 三文鱼、野生鳟鱼子、 阿玛菲柠檬荷兰酱、番茄冻、扇贝卵粉

Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs

Claude Debussy – “Arabesque No. 1 in E major” 德布西《第一号阿拉贝斯克华丽曲》

“This dish has become Ocean Table’s signature,” says Sorsa. “It’s inspired by our kitchen window here with its beautiful ocean view, and it contains all the best that the sea has to offer from around the world – Iceland, the North Sea, Hokkaido, New Zealand, France. Each ingredient is lightly cooked or lightly seasoned or brined in a Nordic style. The sea urchin sauce binds all the ocean ingredients together and balances out the flavor.” 「这道菜成为了 Ocean Table 的招牌菜，受厨房窗外的壮阔海景启发，包含了冰岛、 Jaakko 说 ： 北冰洋、北海道、纽西兰和法国的海洋中的极致美味。各种食材都以北欧料理风格来烹调 和调味，而海胆酱则将所有海洋珍味融合，带来完美平衡的味道。 」

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“This is a very unusual piece for the harp,” says Lai, “because it doesn’t sound very harmonious. It has dissonance and other special effects, like metallic sounds when I change the pedals. To me, it sounds like roots and other little things that grow underground and are struggling to find a way out of the earth.” 「这不是一首寻常的竖琴乐曲，听起来不太和谐。它有不协 Elam 说 ： 和音及其他音乐效果，例如我更换踏板时所产生的金属音效。我觉得 它们听起来像是泥土中的根和一些小昆虫，正在努力破土而出。 」

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FEATURE

THE EARTH Root artichokes, salsify, edible black ants, black truffle 耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟根部、黑婆罗门参、 可食用黑蚂蚁、黑松露

Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque 2012

André Caplet – “À L’Espagnole” 安德烈 · 卡普莱《西班牙嬉游曲》

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THE LAND Iberico pork pluma, duck foie gras and barley risotto, autumn carrots, Périgord sauce 伊比利亚猪肋眼、鸭肝及大麦烩饭、 胡萝卜、佩里格酱

Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé 2012

Manuel de Falla – “Spanish Dance No. 1” 曼努尔 · 德 · 法雅《第一号西班牙舞曲》

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PRESENTED BY PERRIER-JOUËT

“When I began looking at landscapes,” says Hui, ”I was reminded that the Chinese have a history of staring at rocks and meditating on them. While guests are enjoying the food, they can also stare at this rock, meditate upon it, and imagine how the close-up details almost create a landscape on the rock itself.” 「当我开始凝视风景时，想起中国人在很久以前就透过凝视岩石来 Justin 说 ： 冥想。因此当宾客在享用美食时，也可以凝视我照片中的岩石，并进行沉思， 将岩石上的纹理想像成一幅风景画。 」

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the Sky course, I contrast it with a lower register for this one,” she says. “To me, the running base notes feel like currents flowing in the ocean.”

Debussy once described the age of the arabesque, with its nonlinear, free-form melody, as a time when “music was subject to the laws of beauty inscribed in the movements of Nature herself.” In Lai’s selections for the Sky and Islands courses, harmonics conjure nature’s ethereal allure. And the short phrases and dissonant sounds in André Caplet’s “À L’espagnol” that accompanies the Earth course evoke images of underground roots and creatures searching for ways to emerge from the dark.

“Everyone, of course, has their own perceptions of nature,” says Lai. “These pieces I play are my interpretations of the balance and sounds of nature. I hope guests will enjoy this experience and then find their own unique connections between food and wine and art and music.”

本身就非常美味。只需稍煮十秒，再添加少许 号称『素食鱼子酱』的澳洲柑橘，带来清爽酸味， 最后加入口味仿若鱼子酱的葡萄蕨藻，引出藻 类的咸味。 」 搭配这道主题菜式的是略带海洋天然盐味 与 风 味 的 Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs 香 槟。 这款香槟锐利、清爽的矿物感，平衡了海胆 的浓郁与 Ora king 国王三文鱼油花分布完美、 入口即化的丝滑口感。Perrier-Jouët Blanc de

Blancs 香槟选用了酒庄招牌品种霞多丽葡萄酿 造，充满独特花香与柑橘调，带来更有活力、 更鲜明的感官体验。

Justin 拍摄的海景照，带领宾客更加融入

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「海洋」这个主题。照片中的背景元 素，带来海浪完全跳脱了相框的视 觉效果。他是否成功捕捉了拍击崎 岖岩岸的巨大漩涡，与缓慢流向岸 边的细细白浪？他说 ： 「我之所以选 择这张照片，是为了让宾客于品尝 海鲜，细品美酒，享受音乐的同时， 透过凝视这个画面，有仿佛沉浸于 深海之中的感受。 」 在 进 行 摄 影 构 想 时，Justin 直 觉性地不以全景手法拍摄，反而选 择近景特写来呈现自然的抽象特质。 对岩石纹路的仔细观察，是景致壮 丽的迷你风景画 ; 树干与枝桠的写 真，是深入探究光与影的习作。他说： 「透过抽象的角度看事物，能为我们 带来新的感知，让我们察觉一些被 忽略的细节。透过解构对自然既存 的印象，我们进而能以崭新的观点 将之重组。 」 宾 客 沉 浸 于 思 索 Justin 的 摄 影 作品时，伴随的是 Elam 演奏的德布 西第一号阿拉贝斯克华丽曲。她表 示： 「在为『天空』主题料理弹奏了 轻盈而高亢的曲目之后，接着为『海

Mandarin from Fukuoka, ganache from Jamaican “Jamaya 73%” Trinitario dark chocolate, panna cotta from fresh Hokkaido 37% cream, tonka beans 福冈柑橘、Jamaya 73% 巧克力蛋糕、北海道 37% 奶油意式奶冻、零陵香豆

洋 』 安 排 的 是 这 首 低 音 域 的 曲 子。 对我来说，曲调的律动犹如海洋中 流淌的潮水。 」 德布西曾形容阿拉贝斯克时代 是一个「音 非线性、形式自由的旋律，

Elias Parish-Alvars – “Serenade, Op. 73”

乐被镌刻于大自然脉动中的美学律

亚斯 · 帕里什 · 阿尔瓦斯《第 73 号小夜曲》

法所辖」的时代。在 Elam 为「天空」 和「岛屿」两道主题料理演奏的曲

“I use the language of music to bring out the sounds of nature,” says Lai. “This is a beautiful, flowing piece that has magical-sounding harmonics and a very nice arpeggio that goes from low to high notes, reminding me of waterfalls and the water around an island. It’s a very grand piece that I think goes well with dessert and makes a good ending for the meal.”

目中，和声带出了大自然的空灵魅 力。配合「沃土」主题料理的安德 烈 · 卡普莱《西班牙嬉游曲》中的短 句与不和谐音调，则激发地底深根 与虫兽破土而出的幻想。 「对于自然，每个人都有不同的

「音乐是一种能带出自然之声的语言。这首乐曲优美、流畅， Elam 说 ：

「我所演奏的曲 看法。 」Elam 表示 ：

有着梦幻的谐音和典雅的、从低至高的琵音，让我想到瀑布和流淌

子是我对于大自然的调和及声音的

在岛屿四周的流水。这是一道悦耳悠扬的乐曲，适合在最后与甜点一起享用，

个人诠释，希望宾客们能享受其中，

作为一顿餐宴的美好收尾。 」

并在美食、美酒、艺术和音乐中找 到他们专属的连结。 」

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THE ISLANDS

家宴复兴

SUMPTUOUS HOMECOMING A connoisseur of Cantonese cuisine revives the spirit of home banqueting.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

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COVER STORY

Jade Lagoon: bok choy with superior stock 上汤白菜胆

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IN HER MID-LEVELS APARTMENT over the past few weeks, Theresa Yiu has hosted a series of ten-course banquets, each for ten guests. It’s been a hectic schedule, even for Dashijie, the nickname by which she is known to most people and which she acquired as senior apprentice in Hong Kong to her culinary mentor, famed cookbook author Pearl Kong Chen.

Yiu, who is founder of Dashijie, her namesake Hong Kong gourmet food brand, typically hosts only one home banquet a month for eight to ten friends. But this last series of feasts represents the official and, for her, invigorating, launch of a new tableware collection designed and produced in collaboration with Asian lifestyle brand RUYI. “My cooking is a journey,” she says. “Even now, I’m still learning, and these five banquets have raised my level further – the best one was just two nights ago. I never get tired, and I always find it very exciting to host parties.”

Dashijie shares a copy of the five pages of astonishingly detailed instructions that she gives to her team to ensure the success of each event. Preparation begins days beforehand, but on the day of the dinner, the agenda is executed from three in the afternoon onward with military precision, first in half-hour increments and then by the minute.

“I will not compromise and round off to ten or fifteen minutes,” says Dashijie. “If it takes twelve minutes and fifteen seconds, I’ll tell them. Precision is everything.”

Her exacting standards in timing also extend to her cooking methods. Dashijie’s signature dish of chicken medallions, which features thinly sliced portions of chicken liver, pork fat, and lean pork loin skewered together and grilled, requires elaborate and unique preparation of each component.

She uses, for example, only the best part of the livers – that with the smoothest texture, accounting for just 30 percent of the total weight – and casts the remainder aside.

With each guest receiving two cuts, she must buy, for a dinner party of twelve, thirty livers to yield the requisite twenty-four portions, plus an extra six as a buffer.

The dish’s pork fat comes from the two-centimeter layer found above the loin. Dashijie warns, however, that the fat directly under the skin is too chewy and must be trimmed away. Furthermore, a barely visible line separates the two remaining layers of fat, and, when cooked, the lower layer bordering the meat releases its oil too easily and doesn’t have the desired texture. This, too, is trimmed and discarded. What remains is a very thin strip of fat that represents the best part. It absorbs the marinade beautifully, releases just enough oil to drip down the skewer and

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Dashijie and Desmond Chang

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GOLDEN MEDALLIONS: CHICKEN LIVER, P O R K FAT, L E A N P O R K LO I N 金 钱 鸡 ：鸡 肝 、 冰肉、猪里脊

“What Dashijie is doing is very much like imperial cuisine,” says Chang. “All her meticulous prep work and her extreme, extreme selectivity with her three ingredients. No commercial kitchen today would do this.” 张聪说 ： 「大师姐做得很像宫 廷菜，她的准备工作细致， 对三种食材也极度挑剔。如 今没有餐厅会这样做了。 」

protect and flavor the lean pieces of pork loin, and retains a pleasing, crunchy-gelatinous texture.

“If you ask two hundred people,” notes Dashijie, “a hundred and ninety-nine will tell you it’s just a piece of fat. They won’t even see the line between the layers. And as a result, most people – including chefs – are very sloppy when they prepare it.”

Desmond Chang, founder of RUYI, admires Dashijie’s intricately refined cooking methods, her generous use of lavish ingredients, and the extraordinary degree to which she uses only the best parts from whole products. “What she is doing,” he says, “is very much like imperial cuisine.” He sees in Dashijie’s dinner parties a modern-day revival of the ancient Chinese tradition of sumptuous home banquets: “They represent the ultimate form of Chinese haute cuisine. A hundred years ago, aristocrats and wealthy families held home banquets to showcase the highest level of hospitality to their guests, no expense spared, no effort spared. It came from the heart – what can I deliver to my honored guests to the best of my technical and financial abilities?”

Today, few Chinese restaurants, even the Michelin-starred variety, can match Dashijie’s home kitchen masterpieces in terms of quality, cost of ingredients, and degree of painstaking care put into their preparation.

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过去几周，麦丽敏在她位于半山的公寓里举办了 几场的家宴，每场用十道佳肴宴请十位宾客。她 是烹饪导师、著名的烹饪书作者江献珠在香港的 三徒之首， 因而人称「大师姐」 。然而，即便对「大 师姐」而言，这几场家宴的做菜流程安排也是非 常紧凑。 作为香港同名美食品牌「大师姐」的创始人， 麦女士通常每个月只举办一次家庭宴会，每次仅 邀请八到十位朋友。只有成为座上宾，才有缘领 略其厨艺之华。但大师姐最近为了与生活方式品 牌「如意」合作设计和生产的新餐具系列，打造 了一系列振奋人心的盛宴。 她说 ： 「烹饪是一段旅程，直到现在，我也 还在学习。通过举办这五场家宴，我各方面的技 巧都增进不少 ── 最美好的一场宴会，就在两个 晚上前。我对于举办聚会总是乐此不疲。 」 大师姐分享了一份她给团队的五页详细流 程，确保每次家宴都能成功举行。筹备工作在家 宴的多日前已经开始，而家宴当天则从下午三点 开始准备，各人均需严格遵守，先以半小时为单 位执行，再细分至每分钟。

A case in point is her deep-fried superior stock custard, whose humble name belies its origins as a favored delicacy enjoyed by wealthy families in Guangzhou a century ago. “It’s actually a unique mouthful of superior soup,” she says. Starting with a base of rich superior stock, she adds sea urchin for a touch of luxury and egg to form the custard. Then a light layer of cornstarch is gingerly dusted onto the custard with a small brush before it is deep-fried for one minute, just long enough to heat the custard and crisp the surface. Would many restaurants justify the cost of using superior stock for the base rather than chicken stock? Would many chefs take the time and care to delicately brush the custard with cornstarch rather than hurriedly dredge it? Dashijie simply shrugs.

Chang regretfully recognized that the home banqueting tradition had largely been forgotten among Chinese families living outside Mainland China – lost to time, changing circumstances, and modernity.

He decided to initiate a collaboration between RUYI and Dashijie with the goal of inspiring a new generation to adopt a similar sense of generosity and a passion for fine cuisine in home entertaining.

“When I see how meticulously Dashijie prepares her dishes and how sophisticated her logic and her cooking skills are, I truly believe this is the pinnacle of Chinese cuisine,” says Chang. “I hope Chinese

大师姐说 ： 「我不会很笼统地把时间写成 10 或 15 分钟，如果需要 12 分 15 秒，我就会如实以 告，因为精确决定一切。 」她对时间的严格标准 也延伸到她的烹饪方法上。大师姐的招牌菜金钱 鸡，将切成薄片的鸡肝、冰肉和猪里脊串在一起 烤，而每一种食材都需要精心独特的准备。 例如，她只使用鸡肝中最好、质地最光滑的 部分，这仅占鸡肝总重量的 30%，而其余部分则 搁在一边。假设每位客人分到两片，她就必须为

12 人的晚宴采买 30 份鸡肝，才能收集所需要的 24 片，另加额外 6 片作为备用。 这道菜的冰肉来自里脊上方，厚度约两厘米。 然而，大师姐说猪皮正下方的脂肪太有嚼劲，必 须切除。此外，一条几乎看不见的线将剩余的两 层脂肪分开。在烹饪时，与肉相邻的下层脂肪太 容易出油，口感不理想，所以也会切除丢弃。剩 下的是一条很薄的脂肪，也是最好的部分，能完 美吸收腌料，释放出恰到好处的油分，滴到烤肉 串上，作为猪里脊瘦肉部分的保护和调味，并拥 有松脆的凝胶质地。 大师姐说 ： 「如果你问 200 个人，199 个人 a taste of home

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W I N T E R M E LO N CO N C E R TO : F LOW E R C R A B , S N OW G U M , W I N T E R M E LO N S O U P 蟹 肉 雪 胶 冬 蓉 羹 ：花 蟹 、 雪 胶 、 冬 瓜 汤

Dashijie cuts the winter melon into uniform pieces, scrapes it from its rind to ensure a texture without lumps or fibers, and simmers the snow gum in superior stock for two minutes to absorb the umami taste of the Yunnan ham that flavors the stock.

大师姐将冬瓜切成大小相近的块状，并用汤匙将冬瓜小心地从 外皮刮下来，确保没有任何结块或纤维。大师姐还将雪胶放入 上汤煮两分钟，让雪胶得以吸收上汤的鲜味。 她说 ： 「配料听起来简单直白，但当你用极上云腿熬煮的高汤 作为汤底，加上花蟹，就是一窝极致汤羹。 」

COVER STORY

“Home Banquet collection by RUYI has lifted my home banquets to another plane.

「如意」的「家宴」系列餐瓷让我的家宴升华至另一个境界。”

Dashijie serves from Desmond Chang’s covered tureen. 大师姐以张聪设计的有盖大汤盅盛载菜肴。

chefs and food lovers can embrace that spirit and follow her standard.

That’s the motivation behind this project.”

Dashijie approached Chang to custom design fine tableware for her banquets forty years after buying her first Rosenthal set in 1978 with the dream of hosting parties at home. To her delight, he accepted and ran with the idea. Exceeding all expectations, Chang designed an entire RUYI Home

会说这只是一块猪油，他们看不到肉跟脂肪

Banquet collection of tableware inspired by Dashijie’s signature dishes, her antique collection, and her trendsetting revival of home banqueting.

For her chicken medallions, which Dashijie admits looked cramped when served on her round or square plates, Chang created a rectangular platter just long and wide enough to perfectly fit two skewer-lengths of medallions. And she’d always been discontented with presenting her pigeon with braised shark fin on a round, deep plate, so he designed an elegant, shallow, covered tureen with enough capacity to hold three pigeons. She also serves her bok choy with superior stock in the tureen, arranging the bunches to auspiciously resemble a large flower blossom.

“The container is exceptional,” says Dashijie. “It catches everyone’s

材中最顶级部分的极致。他在大师姐的晚宴

层之间的分界。因此，大多数人，包括厨师， 在准备食物时都非常草率。 」 「如意」的创始人张聪对大师姐表示钦 佩，赞叹她在烹饪方法上的精雕细琢、在奢 华食材使用上展示的豪气，以及她只使用食 上看到中式奢华家宴传统的复兴。他说 ： 「她 做的一切都很像宫廷菜式。这是精致中式料 理的极致呈现方式。一百年前，贵族和富有 的家庭举行家宴，总是不遗余力地展示对宾 客最诚挚的好客之道。他们会发自内心地思 考，以自己的烹饪技术和财力，能如何倾尽 全力地款待客人？」 如今，在品质、食材成本和准备的精致 度等方面，即使是米其林星级餐厅，亦几乎 没有中餐厅能与大师姐的家宴媲美。 a taste of home

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COVER STORY

一个典型的例子是她的海胆戈渣，而这 个看似平凡的名字掩盖了它的独特身份。在 一个世纪前，这是广州富裕家庭享用的美味 佳肴。大师姐说 ： 「这就是一口炸上汤。 」她 在浓郁的高汤中放入海胆，增加奢华感，加 入鸡蛋形成糕糊，接着用小刷子小心将一层 薄 薄 的 玉 米 淀 粉 撒 在 糕 糊 上， 油 炸 一 分 钟， 时间刚好足够加热糕糊，并使表面酥脆。有 多少餐厅愿意不计成本，使用优质高汤而非 鸡汤作为锅底？有多少厨师愿意花时间细心 地在糕糊上轻刷玉米淀粉，而不是匆忙捞取？ 对此，大师姐只是耸了耸肩。 张聪遗憾地发现，在中国大陆以外的中 国家庭中，家宴传统由于时间流逝、不断变化 的环境和现代思维，差不多都被遗忘了。他决 定以「如意」品牌和大师姐合作，鼓励新生代 家庭培养类似的慷慨感和对精致美食的热情。 张聪说 ： 「当我看到大师姐细心做出的菜 式，以及她高超的逻辑和烹饪技巧时，我确 信这是中式料理的颠峰之作。我希望，中国 的主厨和美食爱好者能够欢迎这种精神、遵

O C E A N E M P E R O R TA K E S F L I G H T : P I G EO N W I T H B R A I S E D S H A R K F I N 仙 鹤 神 针 ：乳 鸽 煨 鱼 翅

Chang’s covered tureen helps build anticipation as the dish is brought to the table, where Dashijie’s husband cuts open the pigeons to reveal the shark fin stuffing, removes the bones and breast meat, and portions the contents into individual bowls. The shallow piece was designed to allow for tableside presentation while keeping everything contained. 大师姐说 ： 「当我让张聪为这道菜设计餐具时，我想像不到他会怎么设计，

循她的标准。这就是我们开展这个合作计划 的原因。 」 大师姐在 1978 年购买了她的第一套罗 森泰 (Rosenthal) 餐具，希望有朝一日能在家 里举办宴会。40 年后，她找到张聪为她的家 宴订制设计精美的餐具。令她喜出望外的是， 张聪支持她的想法，并着手开始设计。张聪 出乎意料地设计了整个如意「家宴」餐具系列， 灵感来自大师姐的招牌菜、她的古董收藏以 及她引领潮流的家宴复兴。

而这是最好的作品。我很喜欢！」这道菜装在有盖大汤盅中，端上桌时让

大师姐认为，她的烧金钱鸡放在圆形或

顾客非常期待。大师姐的丈夫先把鸽子切开，让鱼翅馅流出来，然后把鸽

方形盘子上，看起来都很拥挤，于是张聪设

子骨头和胸肉去掉，把鱼翅和鸽子分到每个碗里。汤盅的设计是为了同时

计了长方形的盘子，长度和宽度都刚好完美

展示和妥善装填当中的食材。

装下两块肉串长度的烧金钱鸡。此外，大师 姐也不太希望将乳鸽煨鱼翅放在一个又圆又 深的盘子上，所以他设计了一个优雅的有盖 大汤盅，容量足以容纳三只鸽子。她也用汤 盅来装她的上汤白菜胆，把一束束的白菜排 列得如鲜花盛放。大师姐说 ： 「这个容器很特 别，引起每个人的注意，令每个人都很期待

attention, they’re excited to see what is inside, and it immediately makes the food look even more appetizing. Home Banquet collection by RUYI has lifted my home banquets to another plane.”

An observant guest might catch a fleeting glimpse of a tiny design gracing the inside of the tureen lid, an element from the collection’s Spring Dance pattern, a hidden surprise for those discerning enough to notice and appreciate life’s finer touches.

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看到里面有什么，这个汤盅让食物看起来更加 可口。 『如意』的『家宴』系列餐瓷让我的家 宴升华至另一个境界。 」 细心的客人可能会瞥见盖子内侧的小设 计，这是该系列的「春舞」元素，对于那些 有足够洞察力、懂得欣赏精致生活的人来说， 这是「家宴」中隐藏的一个小惊喜。

B I R D S O F A F E AT H E R : S A LT - B A K E D C H I C K E N 盐焗鸡

“I’m so happy I recreated my aunt’s recipe so that it won’t be lost,” says Dashijie. “The aroma, the flavor, the look of it – I still remember everything so vividly.” 大师姐说 ： 「我很高兴我复原了婶婶的 食谱，这样它就能流传下去。对于它的 香气、味道、外观，我至今仍记忆犹新。 」

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PRESENTED BY MGM

行 者 Five Foot Road leads guests on a dining adventure that reveals the subtleties and sumptuousness of classic Chengdu cuisine.

BY JOYCE KWOK & ZITA WAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DADO KIT Marinated Fresh Abalone, Sichuan Style 川味油卤鲜鲍

A TASTE OF HOME | TK |

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PRESENTED BY MGM

← Crispy Fried Yellow Croaker with Dried Pork, Preserved Vegetable and Pickled Chili 网油包烧黄鱼 → Tea Sommelier Bruce He and Chef de Cuisine Yang Dengquan 茶艺师何伟及总厨杨登全

CHEF YANG DENGQUAN’S knowledge of the minutiae of Chengdu cuisine from Sichuan is encyclopedic. He is chef de cuisine of MGM Cotai’s elegant Five Foot Road, with its serene ambience and stylish dining area surrounded by winding screens of gleaming Liuli crystal.

In a recent interview, he surveyed a range of topics, from growing up in Chengdu to his early days at the Forestry Hotel, from the disappearance of traditional Sichuan dishes to his tenure at Five Foot Road. Chef Yang emphasizes that his focus at the restaurant is not on pleasing a particular group of diners but rather on transmitting the lineage of classic Chengdu fine dining found in times past at lavish official banquets and private soirées.

Yang, who was born in Chengdu and has worked as a cook for nearly forty years, has gained a profound understanding of the history of Sichuan food. In characterizing the cuisine, he notes, “Sichuanese love cooking with pork fat. A great example is Crispy Fried Yellow Croaker with Dried Pork, Preserved Vegetable and Pickled Chili – the fat imparts a wonderful aroma to the dish without making it overly heavy.” He draws limitlessly from his storehouse of knowledge: “It’s because Sichuan’s terrain is largely mountainous that its people traditionally raised swine, chickens, ducks, and other forms of poultry. In the past, chili peppers were called sea peppers because they came to China from overseas.”

Although people today often conflate Sichuan cuisine with mala , the spicy-

numbing flavor, Yang is quick to correct the misconception: “We shouldn’t divide Sichuan cuisine into categories of ‘spicy’ or ‘not spicy.’ Rather, we have the framework of the twenty-four flavors to guide us.” He notes that two of Five

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在呈现纯正四川成都风味的美狮美高梅高 级川菜餐厅「蜀道」 ，气势磅礴的琉璃壁 画蜿蜒成优雅的用餐空间。总厨杨登全师 傅对成都这座幸福之城的生活方式和川菜 菜式的认识深刻，在这次访谈中，杨师傅 从年轻时在四川成都林业宾馆入行聊起， 到四川人生活点滴、老川菜逐渐消失，一 直讲到他如今在「蜀道」掌厨的想法 ：不 为刻意逢迎，而是传承川菜大统，呈现其 「一菜一格，百菜百味」的丰富内涵。 杨师傅生于成都，入行接近四十年， 对川菜历史文化了解甚深。因而听他说菜， 总能让人入神 ： 「四川人家做菜不离猪油， 像是『网油包烧黄鱼』 ，鱼肉香，却不腻。 四川本为山都，故此传统四川人吃的都是 鸡、鸭、猪等山珍家禽。以前辣椒都叫『海 椒』 ，正说明它是从海外传来。 」 时人爱说川菜麻辣，杨师傅总不厌其 烦如此纠正： 「川菜不应以『辣』或『不辣』 区分，而是拥有二十四种味型。 」以招牌 菜「芙蓉燕液鸡豆花」及「神仙鸭子」为例， 两者与国宴名菜「开水白菜」 ， 尝来同是清、 鲜、咸，没半点麻或辣，当属「咸鲜」味 型的表率。

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Stewed Duck with Matsutake Mushroom, Ginger, Ham and Seasonal Vegetables 神仙鸭子

Foot Road’s signature dishes, Stewed Minced Chicken Bouillon with Bird’s Nest and Stewed Duck with Matsutake Mushroom, Ginger, Ham, and Seasonal Vegetables, are like the Sichuanese favorite of Poached Chinese Cabbage in Bouillon in that they lack any spicy or numbing flavors. Diners experience instead an exquisitely refined combination of fresh, umami, and salty tastes. All these dishes fall under the xianxian flavor profile, one of the recognized twenty-four flavors of Sichuan cuisine.

Growing up, Yang enjoyed dishes like Ham Hock in Jiao Yan Flavor and Snowflake Chicken. But with the passage of time, many of the ingredients that were available then have declined in quality. As a result, most chefs have taken such dishes off menus and they’ve been slowly forgotten. Changes in modern-day preferences, says the chef, are another reason for the disappearance of some dishes. In fact, one of the restaurant’s signatures, Stewed Duck with Matsutake Mushroom, Ginger, Ham, and Seasonal Vegetables, was almost lost. “In Sichuan,” explains Yang, “the elderly are respectfully called xian , or ‘immortals.’ And this dish might be called an immortal one, because the duck is braised till soft and tender, allowing the elderly to enjoy it to the fullest.” To pass on this traditional specialty at its best, Yang selects free-range ducks from Sichuan and simmers them for hours with Shaoxing wine, matsutake mushrooms, and ham to create the succulent and tender result bursting with flavor.

The trend toward the loss of certain dishes has inspired Yang to

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鸭子以外，椒盐蹄膀、雪花鸡淖 …… 都是 他从小吃惯的成都味道 ；只是随岁月变化，食 材质素有变，厨师于是从餐牌上移除，久而久 之懂做的人越来越少。他还补充，现代客人口 味有变，亦促使部分菜式走向式微。就像餐厅 招牌菜之一「神仙鸭子」 ，由于烹饪工序繁琐费 时，也几近失传。杨师傅介绍 ： 「四川人都唤年 纪大的人作『仙』； 『神仙鸭子』既是老菜，土 鸭肉也务必焖得软腍，让老人家轻松咀嚼。 」为 了传承这道传统菜式，杨师傅坚持用来自四川 的土鸭制作，连同花雕酒、松茸、火腿等慢炖 四小时，保证所有鲜味都被鸭肉吸收，酥软味美。 美食承载着珍贵的生活记忆，眼看一些传 统的川菜菜式日渐失传，激发杨师傅开始思考， 在肩负传承重任之时，如何活用新食材、新技 法，重新壮大川菜的生命力。他的得意之作「蜀 味辣炒龙趸」 ，即见其匠心独运。这道属「糊辣」 味型的主菜，选用皮厚的龙趸，因其油脂够足， 相较老鼠斑更能呈现「糊辣」感。杨师傅选用 指天椒及二荆条辣椒，分别取其辣与香，而猛 火炒起来的脂香，搭配龙趸的细嫩肉质，更显 层次分明。 食材能采购四川以外的，但若然调味取态

PRESENTED BY MGM

explore new ingredients and cooking techniques to reinvigorate Sichuan cuisine while remaining true to its roots. His ingenuity in this area is seen in Wok-Fired Giant Grouper with Dried Chili. Belonging to the hula flavor profile, the dish features thick-skinned grouper, which, says Yang, “has sufficient fat and, compared to the more expensive panther grouper, better expresses the tastes of hula .” Er jing tiao and facingheaven peppers bring pleasing spiciness and fragrance to the dish, and stir-frying the high-fat-content fish releases its beguiling aroma and enhances its delicate texture.

Ingredients from outside Sichuan are occasionally used at Five Foot Road, but seasonings and spices are always imported from the province to ensure authentic flavors. Among these are the restaurant’s oils, chilies, and even salt. According to Yang, only Sichuan salt will give his dishes the proper sweet aftertaste: “Because Sichuan salt is taken from salt wells and then refined in fire, it is very pure. If salt has too many impurities, it will impart a bitter aftertaste we don’t want.”

Yang works hard to present traditional Sichuan tastes by searching for seasonings that have the truest flavors and are of the highest quality. He is constantly seeking and discovering combinations that work together to bring about the best results.

One of Five Foot Road’s most popular dishes that highlights the importance of using the correct seasonings is Marinated Fresh Abalone, Sichuan Style, which features thirty different types. What makes the dish noteworthy is that this complex level of seasoning serves to enhance rather than cover up the taste of the abalone.

Chef Yang brings something special even to such familiar dishes as dan dan noodles. Hand-pulled noodles, made fresh on the premises, have a tender texture, and when they are paired with the chef’s secret blend of Sichuan chili oils and house-blended chili powders, this popular favorite becomes unforgettable.

Five Foot Road is also celebrated for its special teapairing menu. The restaurant’s teas, as well as the water used to brew them, are as meticulously selected as the cuisine’s ingredients. To ensure that each tea’s fragrance is released to the maximum degree, high-mountain varieties like Treasure Dahongpao and Wuyi Cassia are paired with pure Wuyi Mountain spring water, while green teas like Emei Zhu Ye Qing and Mengding Ganlu are brewed with pristine Tibetan glacier water. Memorable moments are created each time Five Foot Road’s master tea sommelier, in a performance derived from an ancient kung fu tea ceremony, pours steaming water from a burnished copper kettle to brew the restaurant’s signature Eight Treasure Tea and guests are transported by its luxurious fragrance to a traditional teahouse in Chengdu.

Dan Dan Noodles with Minced Pork and Soya Bean Sauce 担担面

如此，则显然不合宜。杨师傅坚持用上四川的油、辣椒， 甚至是四川的一小颗盐粒。他解释，只有用四川的盐做菜， 才会有「反甘」效果。 「因为当地的盐都取自岩井，经火烧 提炼，成分纯净 ；假如盐里太多杂质，反倒引发『反苦』 的不良效果。 」 杨师傅也特意在调味方面下苦功，寻找具有正宗四川 风味的优质调味料，以呈现川菜的味道。他还不断尝试不 同辣椒、香料或泡菜的味道组合，希望发掘更多与众不同 的搭配。餐厅的热卖头盘「川味油卤鲍鱼」 ，用上三十多种 香料，其辛香难得不掩鲍鱼鲜美，足够印证使用当地上佳 调味料的重要性。 即使是家喻户晓的手工担担面，他也能设计出特色来： 拉面师傅现场亲手做的拉面软韧可口，配搭秘方红油、自 家磨制的辣椒粉等，杨师傅用长年累积下来的本事，把这 道寻常的面食扎实做好。 餐厅特色的「餐配茶」定制菜单，也是不可错过的风 「水 味甄选。这里奉客的茶叶、用水，跟菜肴一样一丝不苟。 为茶之母」 ，岩茶如大红袍、肉桂配武夷山山泉水，青茶如 峨眉山竹叶青、蒙顶甘露配西藏冰泉水，俱让人喝出茶外 之香。餐厅的八宝茶表演融合了杂技和舞蹈，身手不凡的 茶艺师手持四川特色长嘴壶，辗转腾挪间滚烫热水从高处 注入茶碗，顷刻间茶香四溢，惊觉已处身成都老茶馆，叫 人不舍离开 。 A TASTE OF HOME | TK |

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E PIC UR E A N Ttreasure R E A SUR E epicurean

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE

H O USE house

BY INARA SIM

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DADO KIT A TASTE OF HOME | TK |

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE

Grand Lisboa Palace unveils its glamorous portfolio of dining destinations, signature restaurants, and intimate lounges. 上葡京推出最绚丽迷人的餐饮服务， 以各式招牌餐厅及惬意宜人的酒吧隆重迎宾。

INSPIRED BY THE MAGNIFICENT PALACES of Europe, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau ("Grand Lisboa Palace") is the latest and most spectacular development to appear in the exciting entertainment district known as Cotai. Each of its three distinctive towers – five-star Grand Lisboa Palace Macau, elegant Palazzo Versace Macau, and ultra-stylish THE KARL LAGERFELD – offers its own unique character and guest experience. But all are united by the common goal of providing guests with impressive arrays of unique dining concepts that are poised to set the bar for compelling fine dining in Macau.

Designing a successful F&B portfolio for an integrated resort with close to 1,900 rooms is a monumental undertaking, one on which Grand Lisboa Palace Culinary Director Franck Damianovitch and his team have been working for several years. “So many factors can influence the timeline for new projects,” he says, “but I’d say there must be at least a minimum of two years for creating and completing a restaurant project.

You can imagine how much time and effort have been put into creating these exciting dining options. It’s been a mammoth project but also very rewarding.”

Describing the dining at Grand Lisboa Palace as a “gastronomic ecosystem,” Damianovitch explains the need to look at the big picture before starting a project of this scale. “Whatever cuisine we decide to go with or any design that needs to be completed, we have to think about where it will fit into this ecosystem. It needs to fully express itself without compromising other concepts while at the same time elevating our dining offers.”

Crucial to long-term success is developing a varied balance of dining options. “The industry is constantly evolving, so it’s important to be aware of market trends,” says Damianovitch. “Customers are now looking for more than just good food – they actively seek innovation, inspiration, and new dining experiences. It’s really important for us to continuously reinvent ourselves. Grand Lisboa Palace offers authentic flavors of Macanese, regional Chinese, Asian, Portuguese, and Western cuisines by studying past, current, and what we believe will be future trends in food in order to unfailingly deliver for our guests.”

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于路氹隆重开业的澳门上葡京综合度假村（ 「上 葡京」 ） ，灵感来自欧洲的宏伟宫殿，是目前最 受瞩目的综合娱乐项目。度假村内的三间酒店 大楼各具特色，瑰丽的澳门上葡京、优雅的 澳门范思哲豪华酒店大楼，以及时尚的澳门卡 尔拉格斐奢华酒店大楼，为宾客提供独一无二 的休闲体验。这三家酒店大楼也有着相同的目 标，就是带来独特的餐饮概念，并已蓄势待发， 准备在澳门设立令人惊喜的全新餐饮指标。 为一家拥有约 1,900 间客房的综合度假村 规划餐饮版图，是相当艰巨的任务，而上葡京 的厨艺总监戴凡力（Franck Damianovitch）与 团队在过去数年，就一直以此为目标而努力。 他表示 ： 「新计画的时间进程受到各种因素影 响，但要规划并开设一个餐饮据点，至少也要

For previous page, from left to right: Cyril Dupuis, Executive Chef, Pastry Ken Chong, Head Chef, Palace Garden Chris Yeap, Chef de Cuisine, The Grand Buffet Jimmy Yao, Chef de Cuisine, Eight Treasures Rico Zeng, Chef de Cuisine, Red Bowl Hubert Ly, Executive Chef, Western & Asian Franck Damianovitch, Director of Culinary Andre Filipe Ferreira Lai, Chef de Cuisine, Mesa Kin Meng Choi, Chef de Cuisine, Chalou Meng Leong, Chef de Cuisine, GLP Café Guillaume Gully, Executive Sous Chef, Banquet & Production / Western Simon Sia, Executive Sous Chef, Asian Simon Lee, Executive Sous Chef, Banquet & Production / Chinese

花两年的时间。大家不难想像，我们在这个激 励人心的餐饮计画中投入了多少时间与心血。 这个计画虽然庞大艰难，但也为我们带来无与 伦比的成就感。 」 戴凡力将上葡京的餐饮服务比喻为「生 态系统」 ，并解释说在执行如此大规模的计画 时，必须先着眼全局。 「无论我们决定推出什 么料理或需要完成什么设计，都必须考虑这项 元素是否能完美融入整个生态系统。每个要素 都要在不影响其他概念的状况下充分展现，同 时能提升整体餐饮体验。 」 成功的关键是让餐饮体验达到多元多样 「餐饮业不断发展演进， 的平衡。戴凡力表示 ： 所以我们必须了解市场趋势。顾客现在寻求的 不只是美食，他们更积极追求创新、寻找灵感， 想获得全新的饮食体验。对我们来说，不断重 塑自我真的非常重要，透过研究过去、现在以 Franck Damianovitch

及我们心中所想的未来饮食趋势，上葡京荟萃

戴凡力

正宗的澳门、中国各省市、亚洲、葡萄牙以及 西方风味菜式的完美餐饮服务。 」 要创造如此多样化的美食盛宴，绝对不 是一人能独立完成的工作。在疫情期间招揽烹 饪团队，是戴凡力其中一个需努力克服的障碍。

Creating a culinary canon of such a diverse range is more than a one-man job, yet putting together a culinary team in the midst of a pandemic was a hurdle Damianovitch had to work his way around. “Finding the right talents – people who are genuinely passionate, reliable, and committed to the job and their own professional development – was more of a challenge than normal,” he says. “Fortunately for us, Macau has a pool of very talented chefs who were interested in joining us on our gastronomic journey.”

As an integral part of the process, chefs at every Grand Lisboa Palace restaurant were involved in all stages of restaurant creation by providing their insights to create original and innovative menus. It is through this combination of restaurant and menu design that Grand Lisboa Palace can offer its unique multisensory gourmet experience.

“The future is dynamic and filled with potential,” says Damianovitch.

“Grand Lisboa Palace will offer more plaisir gourmands , or gourmet pleasures, from the varied cuisines that are yet to be introduced at the property. We will continue to take note of market trends and strive for excellence and authenticity in presenting diverse cuisines in an elevated setting. I’m very excited for Grand Lisboa Palace’s gourmet future.”

As part of its opening stage, Grand Lisboa Palace unveils a selection of their signature dining options, leading a grand gastronomic tour of Palace Garden, Mesa, The Book Lounge, The Grand Buffet, and Chalou.

他坦言 ： 「要找到合适的人才，也就是那些真 正怀抱热忱、可靠、致力于工作与个人职涯发 展的人，是非比寻常的艰难挑战。幸运的是， 澳门有一批才华洋溢的厨师，他们也想跟我们 一同踏上这段非凡餐饮之旅。 」 作 为 整 体 筹 划 建 设 中 不 可或 缺 的 一 环， 上葡京所有招牌餐厅与特色食府的厨师都投入 参与餐厅筹划创建的各个阶段，并在设计原创 与创新菜单的过程中提供个人见解与想法。由 此，餐厅的特色设计与创新佳肴结合，上葡 京得以呈献独一无二、感官层次丰富的美食体 验。 戴凡力表示 ： 「未来充满活力与潜力。上 葡京将陆续推出各式各样的美馔，借此带来丰 也就是『美食的乐趣』 。 富的 plaisir gourmands， 我们会继续关注市场趋势，秉持卓越与真诚， 提供多元化的滋味佳肴。想到上葡京的美食前 景，我就满怀期待。 」 上葡京分阶段开业，其餐饮体验的面纱 也随之揭开，带领大家进行一场盛大的滋味之 旅，游历御花园、味赏、博览廊、自助山与茶 楼等美食据点。 a taste of home

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PALACE GARDEN 御花园 Every palace must have a magnificent garden and, with its fusion of East and West, Palace Garden is the crown jewel of them all.

每座宏伟宫殿，都具备一个美轮美奂的 花园，融汇中西的御花园则是箇中瑰宝。

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA PALACE

INSPIRED BY IMPERIAL GARDENS, the restaurant’s design, décor, and art unite to celebrate the exquisite chinoiserie style that blossomed under the trans-Eurasia trading network.

Guests are greeted at the gated entrance, resembling that of France’s Château de Versailles, which opens to reveal a Europeaninspired garden featuring a bespoke installation of vines and flowers.

A corridor, evoking the hallways in imperial gardens, extends down one side and is lined with private dining rooms, while the other hallway leads to the main dining room.

The rare and delicate decorations and antiques throughout the restaurant are curated from around the world. The main dining area’s long wall is anchored by a mural of Suzhou silk with chrysanthemum embroidery, and six freestanding Suzhou embroidery fans with bird and flower imagery stand along the opposite wall.

For more intimate dining, guests may choose one of the restaurant’s five private rooms, all designed, in accordance with the aesthetics of historic palace gardens, for pleasure and admiration.

Across cultures, the Flower Room celebrates timeless romance with vases, mirrors, and antique floral paintings. The Bird Room’s chinoiserie wallpapers, patterned with birds on flowering trees and plants, form a perfect backdrop. The Fan Room, filled with vintage fans, takes its inspiration from aristocracy and court. The Pagoda Room pays tribute to the architecture of palaces and pagodas throughout Chinese history. The Butterfly Room is an enchanting forest with a kaleidoscope of colorful butterflies.

This opulent restaurant offers a farm-to-table menu of Cantonese haute cuisine that is seasonally driven and made with premium ingredients. It is prepared by an expert culinary team whose master can be traced back to the Qing dynasty and Jian Taishi, an accomplished connoisseur who was known as the “first man of the hundred Cantonese foods.” Integrating Western ingredients into traditional dishes, Palace Garden’s refined offerings imaginatively reinterpret the flavors of palatial Cantonese cuisine.

御花园以宫廷园林为灵感，餐厅的设计、装潢与 艺术摆设都蕴藏着细节，绽放着欧亚贸易交流所 迸发出的东情西韵。 踏入御花园，迎面而来是一个充满法国凡尔 赛宫皇家气派的闸门，推开闸门后可见花团锦簇 的欧洲风格庭园，特别订制的藤蔓与花卉绿意盎 然，高雅恬静。餐厅的廊道让人想起故宫的红柱 长廊，沿着花园的两侧延伸，就是私人用餐包厢， 顺走道而行则通往主用餐区。 餐厅中稀有、精致的装饰品与古玩，全是从 世界各地搜罗而来。主用餐厅区挂有一幅苏绣作 品，绣着细腻精美的菊花 ；与之相对的，则是六 幅独立的双面苏绣团扇屏风，其上的雀鸟与花卉 图样鲜活灵动。 如果想在私密空间用餐，宾客可选择餐厅的 五间主题包厢。所有包厢都是参照历史上皇室花园 的美学设计，让宾客沉浸在秀美恬淡的感官享受 中。每个包厢皆展现不同文化概念， 如「万紫千红」 以花瓶、镜子与古董油画作等摆设，向古今中外的 浪漫情怀致敬 ； 「鸟语花香」的中国风墙纸上，有 小鸟在草木间穿梭飞舞的意象，构成明媚绚丽的庭 园景观 ； 「风和日丽」中挂满怀旧的古董扇，灵感 来自贵族与宫廷的装饰艺术 ； 「琼楼玉宇」则向中 国的宫殿与楼阁建筑致敬 ； 「蝶花飞舞」自成一座 迷人的森林，里头有缤纷万千的蝴蝶翩然飞舞。 这座富丽堂皇的餐厅提供粤式佳肴，原料皆 由农场直送，每道菜都是依据当季时令为基准， 以顶级食材烹制而成。所有美馔都是由专业烹饪 团队负责料理，团队的厨师师承清朝江太史的家 厨，江太史在历史上享有「百粤美食第一人」之 美食家的盛誉。御花园将西方食材融入传统菜肴， 端出一道道精致料理，运用想像力来重新诠释宫 廷粤菜的风味。

PA L A C E G A R D E N P O M E LO A N D M A N G O C R E A M WITH GINGER ICE CREAM 「御花园」杨枝甘露

Made with strawberry, mango, pomelo, and passion fruit, this luscious dessert adds Sichuan peppercorns for a spicy tingle. The fruity delight is topped with homemade ginger ice cream and a delicate tuile. .

这道经典甜品由草莓、芒果、香柚与百香果 制成，并加入四川花椒，隐约带点麻辣香气。 配搭的自制姜汁冰淇淋和脆饼，增添了全新 口感。

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S LOW- S T E W E D B E E F WITH WILD HONEY AND SUPREME S OY S A U C E 野生蜂蜜文火炆牛小排

After marinating in the chef’s special sauce, the Canadian beef short rib is simmered on low heat for four hours for a tender, melts-in-the-mouth texture. 将来自加拿大的牛小排在大厨特制的酱汁中腌渍浸泡 后，以文火慢炖四小时，造就鲜嫩、入口即化的极致 口感。

The Butterfly Room is an enchanting forest with a kaleidoscope of colorful butterflies. 「蝶花飞舞」自成一座迷人的森林， 里头有缤纷万千的蝴蝶翩然飞舞。

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C R Y S TA L K I N G T I G E R P R AW N 水晶虎虾球

Served with fifty-two-month-aged Iberico ham and a special dressing made with twenty-five-year-aged balsamic vinegar and oyster essence, the Vietnamese prawn is marinated in savory spices and then cooked to meticulous perfection to achieve its crispy texture and transparent appearance.

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来自越南的虎虾先用鲜味十足的香料腌 制，经过细致的完美烹调，成就弹牙的 口感以及透明的外观，再配上风干 52 个月的西班牙伊比利亚火腿、自制蚝汁 与 25 年陈酿意大利黑醋调和而成的酱 汁，尽展东情西韵。

YUNNAN MOREL MUSHROOM DOUBLE-BOILED WITH BEAN CURD IN CHRYSANTHEMUM SHAPE 菊花豆腐炖羊肚菌

The chefs of Palace Garden show their amazing skill in slicing tender tofu in this interpretation of a famous Huaiyang dish. A small piece of Japanese kombu is added to the broth to bring out the dish’s umami taste.

御花园的厨师创新演绎这道淮阳名 菜，展现精湛的切嫩豆腐刀工。厨 师团队将一小块日本昆布加进汤中 熬煮，使这道菜品更鲜美可口。

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MESA 味赏 An exquisite menu of contemporary Portuguese flavors manifests a philosophy of tradition, quality, authenticity, and farm-to-table dining.

体现当代葡萄牙风味的精致菜单，贯彻传统、品质、真诚以及「从农场到餐桌」的用餐哲学。

WITH AN ENTIRE MENU devoted to petiscos – Portugal’s culinary tradition of small sharing plates – Mesa offers diners a chic alternative to the large, family-style dishes commonly found in Macau’s Portuguese restaurants.

Meaning “table” in Portuguese, Mesa offers contemporary Portuguese food that combines traditional and modern methods. The culinary team has created an appealing selection that features classic favorites and seasonal specialties. Showcasing a wide range of authentic Portuguese ingredients, the menu also displays a hint of modern flair.

Mesa’s chic and elegant dining room, designed by fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld, is a bold blend of contemporary design and oriental inspiration. Featuring Lagerfeld’s favorite colors and signature style, the restaurant is a blend of geometric patterns in black, white, and gold tones, stylishly infused with elements from the East.

Menu highlights include Spiced Horse Mackerel Cones, Piri Piri Chicken with Sweet Potato Chips, Lagareiro (roast octopus with potatoes and garlic), and Escabeche with in-house-canned mussels representing the great canning industry of twentieth-century Portugal.

Mesa’s bar, evoking a golden birdcage, is the restaurant’s centerpiece, the perfect place for pre-dinner cocktails and for enjoying live music on Friday and Saturday nights. As well as offering an impressive wine list, developed in cooperation with Portuguese wineries, and a classic cocktail menu, the bar serves twelve Macau-inspired signature cocktails designed by Mesa’s master mixologist.

味赏推出的「葡式下酒菜（petiscos） 」是葡萄牙 的料理传统，也就是端上一小盘一小盘的料理，方 便宾客一同共享。这与澳门葡萄牙餐厅中常见的大 型家庭式菜肴大相径庭，为宾客带来与别不同的选 择。 ，提供 味赏（Mesa）在葡语中意为「餐桌」 结合传统与现代烹饪技法的摩登葡式风味。味赏的 料理以经典美食以及时令菜式为主，每一道佳肴都 令人食指大动。菜单上罗列各式各样的正宗葡萄牙 食材，同时传达一丝现代气息。 味赏的用餐空间别致优雅，由知名时尚大师

Karl Lagerfeld 亲自设计，大胆揉合前卫格调与东 方巧思。以他最爱的颜色与标志性风格为基调，用 餐空间融合白、黑与金色调的几何图样，巧妙、时 髦地运用东方传统元素。 推介菜式包括香辣鲭鱼蛋筒配酸菜及烟熏蛋 黄酱、香辣烤鸡配甜薯角及墨西哥辣椒、葡式烤章 鱼配马铃薯及香蒜，以及代表二十世纪葡萄牙罐头 工业的自家制炸青口罐头。 味赏的酒吧位于餐厅中央，设计让人联想到 金色的鸟笼。在这里，宾客不仅能享用美味的餐前 鸡尾酒，周五与周六夜晚更能在此欣赏现场音乐表 演。酒吧与葡萄牙酒庄合作， 打造令人惊艳的酒单， 同时也推出各式经典鸡尾酒 ；此外，味赏的调酒大 师也设计出十二种澳门特色鸡尾酒供宾客品鉴。

LAGAREIRO

葡式烤章鱼配马铃薯与香蒜

This dish takes its name from the Portuguese word lagar , the vat where olives are pressed to extract their oil. Tender octopus is roasted and served with a sauce of olive oil, garlic, and coriander and with perfectly roasted potatoes on the side.

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这道菜的菜名来自葡语中的「lagar」 一字，意指压榨橄榄油所使用的木桶。 先将鲜嫩的章鱼烤熟，佐以橄榄油、大 蒜和香菜调和的酱汁，一旁再搭配香烤 马铃薯。

“If you want to play in the firstleague, you have to focus.

力争上游，必须学有专精。”

LAST BACK GARDEN

后花园

This signature cocktail is inspired by the culture of Coloane Village, the Macau heritage landmark known as the city’s "last back garden." It’s made with jasmine-infused gin, swallow nest, wolfberry rock sugar syrup, and mint. 以被称为澳门「后花园」的著名地标路环 渔村为灵感，这款招牌鸡尾酒由茉莉花浸 泡的杜松子酒、燕窝、枸杞冰糖浆与薄荷 调制而成。

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SPICED MACKEREL CO N E

香辣鲭鱼蛋筒配 酸菜及烟熏蛋黄酱 A perfect balance of fresh and light ingredients, the marinated horse mackerel tartare is lightly “cooked” in lemon juice and served in delicate cones, bringing traditional tastes to a sophisticated dish. 这道菜成功在新鲜与清新 的食材之间取得完美平 衡。腌制的生鲭鱼肉在柠 檬汁中略微「烹煮」过后， 装在脆皮筒中，是一道口 味传统的精致菜式。

A L L- I N

应有尽有 Reflecting the past prosperity of Macau’s pawnshops, All-In packs a punch with wintermushroom-infused bourbon, Chinese wine vinegar, and celery salt. 为了反映澳门当铺过往 的繁华，这杯鸡尾酒以冬 菇浸泡的波本威士忌、中 国酒醋以及芹菜盐冲撞 出全新滋味。

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THE BOOK LOUNGE 博览廊 Inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s love of books and his extensive library at his photo studio in Paris, The Book Lounge enlivens salon de thé French tea culture with a menu that offers an array of delicately crafted tea sandwiches, artistic French and Portuguese confectioneries, and the signature KL éclair collection.

以 Karl Lagerfeld 对书籍的热爱和他在巴黎摄影 工作室的图书馆为灵感，博览廊提供一系列精 心制作的茶点三明治、精美的法式与葡式糕点， 以及经典 KL 法式泡芙系列，体现法式茶室文化 的优雅风尚。

ESCAPE INTO A LITERARY PARADISE at The Book Lounge on the ground floor of THE KARL LAGERFELD. The lobby lounge’s walls are adorned with over four thousand books selected from the fashion maven’s own collection.

Serving everything from lunch and afternoon tea to dinner and late-night small bites, The Book Lounge is the ideal nook for getting lost in the ambience of French savoir vivre.

Enjoy a classic salad, Wagyu Beef Burger, or Truffle Croque Monsieur for lunch, and indulge in New Zealand Lamb Rack, Atlantic Salmon Fillet, or Hainanese Chicken Rice for dinner. Tea Time at The Book Lounge treats guests to a luxurious selection that includes black truffle toast, lobster and caviar blinis, gourmet sandwiches, scones and brioche, and a contemporary French dessert set. 来到澳门卡尔拉格斐奢华酒店大楼地面层的博览廊，宾客仿佛遁入 文学天堂。餐厅墙面陈列了四千多本书籍，全是知名时尚大师 Karl

Lagerfeld 亲自挑选的珍藏读物。 从午餐到下午茶、从晚餐到饭后小食，博览廊都能让宾客沉醉在 浪漫优雅的法式美学中。

T E A T I M E AT T H E B O O K LO U N G E

博览廊的下午茶时光

Sip the afternoon away with one of the most indulgent hightea sets in Macau. From elegant sandwiches and scones to toffee cream puffs and lemon meringue pie, the only thing that can top it is a selection of premium teas and honeys directly from a fresh infusion trolley. 来到澳门最奢华的下午茶空间，享 用目不暇给的糕点 ：从优雅的三明 治与英式松饼，到太妃糖奶油泡芙 和柠檬蛋白批，再搭配多款以自助 餐车呈上的即摘即泡新鲜茗茶及优 质蜜糖，尽享专属午茶时光。

午餐时段，宾客能在此享用经典沙拉、和牛汉堡，或松露法式传 统三明治 ；来到晚餐，餐厅则端出纽西兰羊扒、香煎三文鱼或海南鸡 饭供宾客享用。在下午茶时段，博览廊也提供各式奢华的茶点，例如 黑松露吐司、龙虾鱼子酱薄饼、美食家三明治、英式松饼和布里欧面包， 以及现代法式甜点。 a taste of home

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THE GRAND BUFFET 自助山

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Featuring an imaginative Asian marketplace concept, The Grand Buffet offers sumptuous all-day dining.

以想像力丰富的亚洲市集为概念， 自助山提供全天候丰盛的餐饮服务。

STEP INTO an exciting world of flavors at The Grand Buffet. Guests are invited to gather and enjoy the lively atmosphere and interact with a skilled team of culinary artisans in the restaurant’s show kitchens as they prepare lavish dishes overflowing with the season’s freshest ingredients.

With its impressive selection of eighteen live-cooking stations to explore, The Grand Buffet offers diners unparalleled choices, including unlimited live seafood and an extensive array of international specialties inspired by Chinese, Pan-Asian, and Western cuisines.

Exclusively for dinner guests on weekends and holidays, chefs serve up an exciting variety of freshly prepared grilled dishes over the dedicated outdoor BBQ firepit, the only one of its kind in Macau. 来到自助山，宾客就踏入一个热闹欢腾的风味世界。自助山满载欢乐相聚 的轻松气氛，开放式厨房能让宾客与厨艺高超的大厨互动，欣赏厨师如何 利用当季最新鲜的食材烹制出一道道滋味佳肴。 自助山设有 18 个不同主题的美食区，种类繁多，同时也提供无限量 供应的生猛海鲜，以及广受中国、亚洲与西方美食启发的各国特色料理。 周末及节假日晚市来到室外露台，更可欣赏厨师在澳门唯一的自助 餐户外烧烤区料理各式新鲜烧烤菜肴。

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CHALOU BRINGS BACK golden memories of historic Canton, long-lost days of dim sum trolley service and lively conversation over teahouse classics.

Yum cha , meaning “drink tea” in Cantonese, is a time-honored ritual of family, friends, and business associates coming together to savor a lavish table laden with tea, dim sum, and other delectable bites. At Chalou, Grand Lisboa Palace’s very own teahouse, guests can experience this nostalgic tradition.

A welcoming procession of bamboo baskets on dim sum trolleys – each adorned with Chalou’s monogram in gold – make their way through the spacious dining room and bear an irresistibly tantalizing selection of goodies, including crabmeat and pork dumplings, scallop and shrimp red rice rolls, char siu bao (barbecued pork buns), and crispy taro puffs with roasted goose filling.

No gathering for yum cha can be complete without tea, and Chalou has an extravagant selection on offer. Guests are invited to ask Chalou’s resident tea experts for guidance on the many premium and rare teas that are available. 饮茶在粤语中意为「喝茶」 ，是一种历史悠久的习俗 ：亲朋好友与商业合作伙伴相聚， 共享一桌丰盛的茶水、点心与其他美食珍馔。来到上葡京的茶楼，宾客就能体验这种 怀旧复古的传统。 点心推车缀有金色调的茶楼字样，满载盛装点心的竹制蒸笼。点心车在宽敞的 餐厅里鱼贯穿行，里头都是令人无法抗拒的诱人美食，包含蟹肉小笼包、樱花虾带子 红米肠粉、叉烧包，以及烧鹅蜂巢荔芋角。 一盅两件的饮茶时光绝对少不了茶，因此茶楼提供丰富选择。茶楼有一位驻场 茶艺师，宾客能随时向茶艺师请教所有与茶叶相关的问题。

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C HALOU 茶楼 Chalou brings back golden memories of historic Canton, long-lost days of dim sum trolley service and lively conversation over teahouse classics.

茶楼唤醒沉睡的珍贵记忆，带领宾客回 到历史悠久的广州。宾客能在复古点心 车上挑选餐点，沉浸在人声鼎沸、热闹 无比的饮茶文化中。

F I S H M E AT A N D V EG E TA B L E S O U P IN SHUNDE ST YLE

顺德拆鱼羹

A traditional Shunde dish made with thinly sliced grass carp, black fungus, carrots, loofahs, and bamboo shoots, it is topped with dried fish floss to give it a crispy finish. 这是一道传统顺德菜，由切成薄丝的皖鱼、黑木耳、红 萝卜、丝瓜与竹笋制成，上头洒上鱼松，替这道汤品增 添香脆口感。

CRISPY CHICKEN W I T H L E M O N G R A SS S C E N T 香茅脆香鸡

Lemongrass, ginger, and a plethora of Thai herbs are blended into a paste and used to marinate Qingyuan chicken overnight before it is dried and deep-fried to crispy perfection. 香茅、生姜与大量的泰式香料打成汁，腌制清远鸡。 腌制隔夜后将其风干，经油炸呈现酥脆口感。

PRESENTED BY KRUG

酒乐共谱

I N

T U N E

Krug Champagne and electronic jazz trio Manvsmachine join in harmony to celebrate the release of Les Créations de 2008.

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库 克 香 槟 最 近 向 世 界 献 上 了 Les Créations de 2008，两款独特的香槟收成自富有魅力的年份

– 2008，各自蕴藏着截然不同的自然风味。其中 一款是库克 2008 年份香檳 Krug 2008，酿酒师 出色地展现出 2008 年生长季节的故事，另一款 则是库克陳年香檳 Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème

Édition，以不同年份的基酒混酿而成，其中最年 轻的基酒为 2008 年份的收成，充分展现「最丰 富的香槟特质」 。 每一款库克年份香槟皆经过精心酿制，呈 现该年份的独有特色，Krug 2008 也不例外地体 现了经典库克风格──刚柔并济，相辅相乘，忠 于创始人 Joseph Krug 的独到愿景，被酒庄的品 酒团队赞誉为「经典之美」 。 从 1843 年创立以来，库克酒庄就不断寻求 新法来升华品酒体验，其中之一就是利用音乐， 为品饮增添全新维度。每款库克陈年香槟如同一 群「音乐家」 ，不同产区和黑皮诺、霞多丽、莫 尼耶三种葡萄合奏着由库克谱曲的特定年份。此 外，每款 Krug Grande Cuvée 都精心混自十一个 不同年份、一百二十多种不同的基酒，散发着醇 厚的风味和香气，就像和谐地演奏的交响乐团。 库 克 酒 庄 以 此 精 神， 创 作 出 独 特 的 Krug Echoes， 运 用 音 乐 这 种「 世 界 语 言 」 来 诠 释 库 克 香 槟， 进 行 跨 界 连 结。 为 了 配 合 Les Créations de 2008 的推出，库克酒庄在 2021 年 与 Manvsmachine (MVM) 合作，打造了一场跨 越幕前幕后的独特 Krug Echoes 飨宴。 实验性电子爵士三重奏 MVM 于 2019 年在 香港成立，由制作人和音效设计师 Hirsk、鼓手

Blue Kwok 和钢琴家 Daniel Chu 组成，三人精通

COURTESY OF KRUG CHAMPAGNE (6)

THE HOUSE OF KRUG recently presented to the world Les Créations de 2008, two remarkable Champagnes created in 2008, two distinct expressions of nature that capture an intriguing year. One is Krug 2008, in which the House’s master winemakers brilliantly tell the story of the 2008 growing season. The other is Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition, “the most generous expression of Champagne,” an artfully composed blend of wines from several different years, the youngest from the harvest of 2008.

Every Krug Vintage is crafted to communicate the distinct character of a particular year, and Krug 2008 admirably accomplishes that while epitomizing the classic Krug story of harmonious intensity, complementarity, and contrast. Dubbed “Classic Beauty” by members of the Krug Tasting Committee, Krug 2008 is true to the unique vision of founder Joseph Krug.

Since its founding in 1843, the House of Krug has constantly sought innovative ways to enrich the tasting experience of its Champagnes.

One avenue has been through music, which holds the power to reveal a myriad of new dimensions that unfold with each sip.

Each Krug Vintage can be likened to a group of “musicians” that include a selection of individual vineyard plots and three grape varieties – pinot noir, chardonnay, and meunier. Together they play a single score, the music of a particular year as interpreted by Krug. On the other hand, each edition of Krug Grande Cuvée is expertly blended from more than one hundred twenty different wines from more than eleven different years, lending a fullness of flavors and aromas that are akin to a full symphony orchestra playing together in perfect harmony.

In this spirit, the House of Krug has developed a unique endeavor called Krug Echoes, which goes beyond traditional boundaries and connects through the universal language of music. In recognition of Les Créations de 2008, the House of Krug in 2021 collaborated with Manvsmachine (MVM) to create a unique Krug Echoes journey that took place both onstage and behind the scenes.

MVM, an experimental electronic jazz trio formed in 2019 and based

PRESENTED BY KRUG

Pianist Daniel Chu, producer and sound designer Hirsk, and drummer Blue Kwok 钢琴家Daniel Chu、制作人兼音效设计师Hirsk和鼓手Blue Kwok

place backstage prepares us for the experience onstage.” Guests first discovered Krug’s craftsmanship “live” from Maison Krug with winemakers Jérôme Jacoillot and Isabelle Bui. Then they experienced MVM’s Krug Echoes interpretations of Les Créations de 2008.

The performance was followed by a spectacular dining event with a menu curated by acclaimed Guillaume Galliot, Krug Ambassade

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古典、爵士及流行音乐，也对跨界的前卫音乐 有着相同的品味。 在 创 作 Krug Echoes 作 品 前，MVM 与 Krug 的 首 席 酿 酒 师 Julie Cavil 及 前 首 席 酿 酒 师 Eric Lebel 进 行 了 视 讯 会 议， 并 品 尝 了 Les Créations de 2008 的两款香槟。他们交流彼此 在品饮过程中的所感所观，将这些见解转化为 灵感，谱出他们的 Krug Echoes，透过现场表演， 将对两款香槟的独特诠释传达给听众。 「我们在这一首受 Krug 2008 Hirsk 表示 ： 年启发的作品开端，加入 Daniel 的琴音。我添 加了一些音效和合成音乐，而 Blue 也透过鼓声 增 加 摇 摆 感。 在 另 一 首 受 Krug Grande Cuvée

164ème Édition 启发的作品中，我以多种乐器 和音效，反映这支香槟的张力和花火绽放般的 多层次酒体。 」 一 众 库 克 爱 好 者 于 2021 年 10 月 25 和 26 日在香港与 MVM 进行了一场「后台的一切，都 为台上准备」的独特体验，宾客先于台下欣赏 由酿酒师 Jérôme Jacoillot 及 Isabelle Bui 介绍的 库克酒庄工艺，再享受 MVM 分别为 Krug 2008 和 Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition 创作的两 首乐曲。表演后登场的是丰盛的餐宴，菜单由香 港四季酒店 Caprice 的库克大使厨师 Guillaume Galliot 所设计，搭配 Les Créations de 2008 香槟。

COURTESY OF KRUG CHAMPAGNE (2)

in Hong Kong, is made up of three artists: producer and sound designer Hirsk, drummer Blue Kwok, and pianist Daniel Chu. Eloquent in classical, jazz and pop idioms, they also share a taste for avant-garde sounds that break boundaries between genres.

In preparing to create their Krug Echoes compositions, MVM met with Krug Cellar Master Julie Cavil and former Cellar Master Eric Lebal virtually and tasted the two Champagnes of Les Créations de 2008. They exchanged sensations, observations, and intuitions from their tasting and translated those insights into original interpretations, cocreating with Krug two musical portraits of the Champagnes, a Krug Echoes journey that would be conveyed to audience members in a live onstage performance.

“For the piece inspired by Krug 2008,” says Hirsk, “we started with Daniel’s piano idea. I added some sound effects and synthesizers, while Blue added some drum grooves on top. For the piece inspired by Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition, I started with a track full of a multitude of instruments and sounds to reflect the explosiveness and firework-like quality of the wine.”

In Hong Kong on October 25 and 26, 2021, Krug Lovers gathered for a unique journey with MVM, exploring the theme of “what takes

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

COURTESY OF KRUG CHAMPAGNE ( 7)

Manvsmachine (MVM)

Chef at Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, and accompanied by the Champagnes of Les Créations de 2008.

Krug 2008 exhibits power, elegance, and a richly textured mouthfeel.

To best tell the season’s story, 53 percent of the blend was selected from wines from pinot noir plots, including Krug’s emblematic Aÿ, Mareuil, Bouzy, and Ambonnay plots. Wines from meunier plots (25 percent) add tension and citrus, and aromatic wines from chardonnay plots (22 percent) infuse the blend with fruit.

Krug 2008’s superb profile comes after twelve years in the cellars, gaining in expression, harmony, and finesse. It offers a brilliant golden hue and a nose with round aromas of honey, licorice, menthol, orange peel, and grapefruit. On the palate are notes of quince, candied fruits and citrus, yellow kiwi, star fruit, honey, apple tart, butter cookies, orange peel, peony, and fennel, with floral and menthol undertones. Its long, balanced, precise finish has astounding structure.

In the case of Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition, wines from 2008 make up 68 percent of the final blend. In addition, a number of carefully selected reserve wines from ten previous years complete the blend and ensure the breadth, depth, roundness, finesse, and elegance that are essential to the creation of each edition of Krug Grande Cuvée.

With its pale golden color and vivacious bubbles, Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition offers aromas of blooming flowers and ripe, dried, and citrus fruits as well as marzipan and gingerbread. On the palate are layered flavors of hazelnut, nougat, barley sugar, jellied and citrus fruits, almonds, brioche, and honey. This superb Krug Grande Cuvée, like all Krug Champagnes, will only continue to gain in depth with the passage of time.

Krug 2008 醇厚、优雅，质地丰富，为 了充分展现季节的自然条件，其中的 53% 是从黑皮诺产地中所挑选出来的葡萄酒，包 括库克的招牌产区 Aÿ、Mareuil、Bouzy 和

Ambonnay， 另 外 25% 来 自 莫 尼 耶 产 地， 增添张力和柑橘味，最后的 22% 则是来自 霞多丽产地，为混酿注入果香气息。Krug

2008 之美于十二年的陈放后尽显无遗，表 现力、和谐感和细腻度皆获得提升，看似鲜 明的金黄色调，闻起来有蜂蜜、甘草、薄荷 醇、橙皮和葡萄柚的圆润气息，尝起来有榲 桲、蜜饯水果和柑橘、金奇异果、杨桃、蜂 蜜、苹果派、黄油曲奇、橙皮、牡丹和茴香 的味道，加上花香和薄荷醇的底韵，尾韵绵 长、平衡、精确，饱满的酒体结构令人惊艳。

2008 年 的 基 酒 占 Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition 最 终 混 酿 的 68%。 此 外， 酒庄精心挑选多支十年前陈放的葡萄酒，确 保每款 Krug Grande Cuvée 皆具备着广度、 深度、圆润、细腻和优雅等特质。这支香槟 拥有淡金色、细致丰富的气泡，散发着花朵、 成熟柑橘果干、杏仁糖和姜饼的香气，口感 层次丰富，带有榛果、牛轧糖、大麦糖、果 冻和柑橘类水果、杏仁、布里欧和蜂蜜的味 道，此款不同凡响的 Krug Grande Cuvée 将 与所有库克香槟一样，历久弥新。 a taste of home

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PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

经典回归

a classic returns Michelin-starred 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana at Galaxy Macau™ is back with celebrity chef Riccardo La Perna and a stellar seasonal menu of favorites.

「 澳 門 銀 河 ™」 的 8½ Otto e Mezzo 2021 年 11 月， THE CURTAIN HAS GONE UP AGAIN at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 餐厅再次揭开帷幕。出生于西西里岛的新任 Bombana, with Executive Chef Riccardo La Perna, talented protégé 餐厅总厨 Riccardo La Perna，师承 Bombana 品牌创 of master chef Umberto Bombana, now in charge. The Sicilian始人及主理人 Umberto Bombana，之前曾连续多年 born chef, whose background includes two Michelin stars and two 获得米其林二星和黑珍珠两钻的荣誉。对于餐厅的重 Black Pearl diamonds, had his hands full in the months leading up 新开幕，他可说是胸有成竹。 to the opening in November 2021. 在重新开幕前，总厨忙著建立新团队，同时监督 Putting a new team together vied for his time with oversee餐厅的全面装修。他说 ： 「这不只是重新开幕，更像 ing every aspect of the restaurant’s complete renovation. “There 是全新开幕，有很多小细节需要注意，比 were smaller details, like new cutlery, plating, and BY 如新餐具、新餐盘和新椅子。此外，我亦 chairs,” he says, “and there were bigger things like cusINARA SIM 要跟进一些比较大规模的整改，比如打造 tomizing the kitchen so my team and I are comfortable.

• 让我和团队顺心顺手的定制化厨房。厨房 The kitchen is my home, and I need the ambience to PHOTOGRAPHY 是我的家，我需要一个为我们而设、让我 be just right for us to be able to focus on our work. It

BY DADO KIT 们专注工作的环境氛围。在筹备过程中， seems like you have everything ready, but still you miss 我每天都有『万事俱备』的感觉，但又好 a hundred things a day.” 像还有过百样事情有待跟进。 」 The restaurant’s return was the talk of the town, with book餐 厅 的 回 归 成 了 澳 门 的 城 中 热 话， 随 之 而 来 ings almost impossible to get for December and January. Diners 的 就 是 重 新 开 业 首 两 个 月 的「 一 位 难 求 」 。Menu eager to experience La Perna’s creations were delighted with the Colleczioni 中的菜式皆使用最顶级的食材，渴望享用 chef’s exceptional Colleczioni Menu featuring the finest ingredients

available. “This menu really represents the classics of Bombana,” he says. “It also reflects the seasons and gives us the opportunity to really show off this seasonality in our dishes.”

The menu opens with Red Tuna, made with a beautiful balance of bright-red akami cuts and superbly marbled chutoro cuts of premium bluefin from Japan. Marinated in seasonal herbs and citrus for Sicilian flavor, it is topped with luxurious Beluga caviar.

Classic Tagliolini features tajarin , a pasta from Piedmonte that is handmade daily using forty egg yolks. Cooked deliciously al dente, the noodles are served in a rich sauce and topped at table with sumptuous freshly sliced white truffles.

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总厨 Riccardo 创意料理的饕客绝对不会失望。他说 ： 「这个菜单代表着『Bombana』的经典风格，同时亦 能反映时令，更让我们有机会在菜肴中展现这种季节 性。 」 行政总厨 Riccardo 特别选用日本的蓝鳍金枪鱼， 打造前菜蓝鳍呑拿鱼。他选取其鲜红的赤身和纹理华 丽的中鲔鱼腹，并用不同的香草和柑橘腌制，为鱼肉 增添西西里的地中海风味。最后放上 Beluga 鲟鱼子 酱，带来醇厚的海洋鲜味。 意面料理 Tagliolini 所用的意式扁面 (Tajarin) 每 天由厨师团队用四十颗蛋黄手工制造，煮至嚼劲刚好

Riccardo La Perna

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

Langoustine 螯虾

Tiramisù, Chef La Perna’s divine signature dessert, is a revelation to the taste buds. Rich yet light, sweet with a hint of bitterness, perfumed with the aromas of coffee and wine, this decadent creation is served with luscious affogato .

Diners are likely to make new discoveries night after night. “In accordance with the seasons,” says the chef, “we’re free to change one or two plates, sometimes every day, depending on the ingredients we have. Yesterday I received some beautiful amadai , and tonight we have it on the menu. I don’t want to have a fixed menu with rules I must follow. For me, it’s important to be loyal to our guests, because they come here with expectations. Everything must be made fresh for the day, and when it’s finished, it’s finished. My guests deserve the best.”

“Contemporary classic” is La Perna’s term for his culinary philosophy. “Classic is obvious,” he says. “I do classic things. And when I say contemporary, it’s not in the sense of modern cooking, but a modern approach to food. People these days are more conscious of what they eat and how much they eat – they’re looking for balance.

We calculate the grams of food in a set menu and revise dishes accordingly to give our guests a pleasant dining experience.”

While the restaurant’s namesake, Chef Umberto Bombana, has had a profound influence on La Perna’s approach, his personal style and passion for food ultimately stem from the rich culinary history of Sicily where he was raised. “Being a chef is the kind of job that you must feel ,” he says. “I’m not someone who grew up in the kitchen watching my family cook. But as soon as I stepped into this world, I knew it was for me.” As a youth, La Perna got a job helping out at a local café and pastry shop, washing fruit and fetching water from the well.

“I was eleven years old and worked from seven in the morning until eight at night,” he recalls. “Being in the kitchen was a revelation.”

“Everything must be made fresh for the day, and when it’s finished, it’s finished. My guests deserve the best.

我们的食材仅限当日供 应，现点现做，食材用 尽，餐点也就供应完毕。 我的顾客值得最好的。”

后配搭香浓酱汁，上桌时总厨会现切香气 郁馥的白松露，更添味觉层次。 总厨 Riccardo 的招牌甜点提拉米苏 是最纯粹的享受。浓而不腻，甜中带苦， 融合了咖啡和美酒的浓郁风味，配搭阿法 奇朵 (Affogato)，为用餐体验画下完美的 句点。 每晚来就餐的食客都会有新的惊喜。 「我们会根据季节变换 总厨 Riccardo 说 ： 一两道菜，取决于我们当天拥有的食材， 甚至每天都会调整菜单。例如昨天，我收 到新鲜的甘鲷，我们今晚的菜单上就会有 这道菜。我不想墨守成规，遵循固定的菜 单。我认为，顾客都满心期待地来到这里， 所以我们务必要效忠于他们。我们的食材 仅限当日供应，现点现做，食材用尽，餐 点也就供应完毕。我的顾客值得最好的。 」 「现代经典」是总厨 Riccardo 的烹饪 哲学。他说 ： 「经典是显而易见的，而我 做的全都是经典菜式。现代指的不是现代 烹饪，而是现代的料理方式。现在的人更 注重吃什么和吃多少，说的就是当中的饮 食平衡。我们会计算每份餐点的重量，并 以此为依据调整餐点，为顾客提供愉快的 用餐体验。没有人想因为吃得太撑而难 受。 」

Umberto Bombana 对 总 厨 Riccardo 的料理方式影响深远，但他生长的西西里 岛有着丰富而悠久的烹饪史，这孕育了他 的个人风格和对食物的热情。他说 ： 「主 厨是那种需要『用心感受』的工作，我 没有在厨房里看着家人做饭的成长过程， a taste of home

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PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

“I feel so privileged to have lived at a time when to learn a recipe, you really had to work hard and get close to the chef in order to ‘steal’ it.

我很荣幸能够生在那个年代，当你想学做一道 菜，你必须非常努力接近主厨才能「偷师」。”

Line-caught seabass, shellfish soup “acquapazza”, Hokkaido uni 海钓鲈鱼，海鲜高汤 “acquapazza”，北海道海胆

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After two seasons at the job, he realized that he needed to move on to something bigger if he wanted to grow in the culinary field. “I switched to a local restaurant, and being the youngest there, I got the worst jobs. At that time, chefs were much older men, and they’d punish you if you made a mistake. It was very different to today. They had secret recipes, secret techniques they didn’t want to share with anybody. You had to take in the job with your eyes. I feel so privileged to have lived at a time when to learn a recipe, you really had to work hard and get close to the chef in order to ‘steal’ it. Today you can go to Google or YouTube and find a hundred different ways to make a recipe. But then there was only one way – you just had to take it.”

Learning the time-honored dishes has strengthened the chef’s commitment to straightforward cooking. “My food is very simple,” he says. “What you order, you’ll see on the plate. No strange foam or flowers or things that don’t add anything to the dish.

The most important thing to me is the taste, the luxury of simplicity. Personally, I go back to a restaurant where the food is good, not where the food is pretty.”

Does the chef, perhaps, see additional stars in the restaurant’s future? “Ultimately, it really doesn’t matter about the stars, the diamonds, or any of that stuff,” he says.

“The real acclaim in the end comes from our customers. When they book a table again for their next visit, that, for us, is the highest recognition.”

Red tuna 蓝鳍吞拿鱼

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

“The most important thing to me is the taste, the luxury of simplicity.

最重要的是口味，简约也是很奢华的。”

Veal, crispy bread crust, cheese fondue, mushrooms, Alba white truffle 小牛肉，脆皮，奶酪酱，牛肝菌，阿尔巴白松露

而是一踏入厨艺世界，我就知道这是我想做的。 」年轻时的

种不同的方法来制作一道菜，而那个时候只有一种方法，你

Riccardo 在当地一家咖啡店打工，帮忙洗水果和打井水。「当

也别无他法。 」

」他回忆道 ： 「在厨 时我 11 岁，从早上七点工作到晚上八点。 房里工作真是命中注定。 」 在咖啡店工作半年后，他意识到如果他想在烹饪领域中 有所成长，他需要去更有挑战性的地方。总厨 Riccardo 称 ： 「我转到一家当地的餐馆，由于年纪最小，大家不想做的事 都由我来做。那时候，主厨都是年纪大很多的人，如果你犯 错，他们会惩罚你。这跟现在很不一样。他们的秘密配方和

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学习历史悠久的菜肴使总厨 Riccardo 更坚守简单烹饪 的承诺。他说 ： 「我的食物很简单，你所点的菜品就是装在 盘上的佳肴。没有奇怪的装饰或花朵，也不会在餐点中添加 任何不必要的东西。我觉得，最重要的是口味，简约也是很 奢华的。就我个人而言，我会再次造访一间餐厅是因为美味 的食物，而不是漂亮的食物。 」 当被问及是否觉得餐厅会在未来获得更多的星级荣誉，

烹饪技巧都不想外传，你在工作过程中必须仔细观察。我很

「星星、钻石或任何这些评级真的不 总厨 Riccardo 回答道 ：

荣幸能够生在那个年代，当你想学做一道菜，你必须非常努

是最重要，真正的赞赏来自顾客。他们订位并再次光顾，对

力接近主厨才能『偷师』 。如今，你可以在网络上找到过百

我们来说就是最大的肯定。 」

TK | a taste of home

Tiramisù 提拉米苏

Hokkaido scallop appetizer 开胃菜北海道扇贝

PAIRINGS

肴酿交融

perfect blend At restaurant Whey, wines from Bourgogne achieve ideal balance with Asian culinary heritage and European technique.

在上环威灵顿街新开幕的 Whey 餐厅里，趁 着准备晚餐时段前的五分钟空档，主厨 Barry Singapore have stayed with me,” says Chef Barry Quek, taking a five「我在新加坡度过童年，回忆里 Quek 分享道 ： minute break from preparations for the evening service at Whey, his 的所有风味、 口感与香气， 至今一直伴随着我。 」 newly opened venture on Wellington Street in Sheung Wan. 「我偶尔也会想念以熟悉的食材来烹饪的 “I miss cooking the food I grew up with, but Whey is the culmina日子，但在 Whey，我能充份发挥厨艺生涯的 tion of everything I’ve learned as a chef. We combine Asian produce 所知所学。在这里，我们结合了 with European techniques so that every dish is a fine balance BY 亚洲食材及欧式烹饪手法，让每 between acidity, freshness, and complex flavor.”

LUCY JENKINS 一道料理都在酸度、新鲜度和多 And now the chef has brought an exciting extra dimen• 元风味之间达到细腻的平衡。 」 sion to the mix through a partnership with Bourgogne Wines, PHOTOGRAPHY BY Barry 最 近 与 法 国 闻 名 的 the association of producers in the famous French wine SAMANTHA SIN 葡萄酒产区布尔冈的酒庄协会 region. Quek admits that, while Whey’s ethos of contemporary Bourgogne Wines 合 作， 带 来 更 Western cooking style with Eastern ingredients can be a chal-

“A L L T H E F L AVO R S , textures, and aromas from my childhood in

lenge, the addition of wine pairing makes it a whole different ball game.

Ever since Whey’s opening, however, Quek and Sommelier Marc Le Gallic have worked together to ensure that the wine list and menu complement rather than compete with each other. “Whenever Marc brings in a certain wine,” says Quek, “he’ll share the tasting notes, and I’ll try and match it with the flavors and ingredients.” Adds Le Gallic, “It’s not easy!

Some Asian ingredients can overpower a wine, but a sauce or jus can give a dish a texture that makes it easier to pair. Preparing a dish with butter or olive oil can also make a big difference. We both try the wine and dish together, and I can see which way the dish is going and find the wine that will match. But it can all change with even a tiny particular herb that Barry uses or a spice at the end.”

Quek’s meticulous selection of every ingredient stems from his previous experience in Belgium at In de Wulf, a farm-to-table restaurant with adjoining kitchen gardens, and in Melbourne at Attica, which works closely with local farmers. Both have instilled in him a passion for sustainability and made it the driving force behind Whey.

Before launching the restaurant in partnership with ZS Hospitality Group in May 2021, Quek had in 2017 opened his first venue in the city, Beet. It was there that he forged partnerships with nearby growers and farmers. “By visiting local farms in Hong Kong,” he says, “I saw all the

令人期待的餐饮体验。他坦言，Whey 餐厅以 当代欧洲烹饪风格结合亚洲食材的做法，本身 就是一种挑战，而挑选佐餐酒又是另一道难题。 自餐厅开幕以来，Barry 与侍酒师 Marc Le Gallic 便携手合作，期望酒单与菜肴的配搭 「每次 Marc 带来一 能互相增色。Barry 表示 ： 支新酒，便会与我分享品饮感受，而我会在试 喝后寻找与之搭配的风味与食材。 」Marc 补充 道： 「这很不容易！有些亚洲食材的味道可能 会盖过酒味，但加入某种酱汁或肉汁后，会带 来特殊的口感，让酒单的搭配更加得心应手。 制备料理时，加入的是黄油或橄榄油也可能造 成很大的差异。我们两个会一起品尝料理和酒， 如此一来我便能掌握菜式的细节，从而找到合 适的酒。然而，若 Barry 之后再加入其他香草 或香料，一切也会随之变化。 」

Barry 曾于多家知名餐厅任职，包括标榜 农园直送、拥有自家菜园的比利时餐厅 In de

Wulf，以及与墨尔本当地农场紧密合作的餐厅 Attica 等。这些经历培养出他对永续餐饮的热 忱，进而成为在 Whey 掌厨的原动力。 a taste of home

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Sommelier Marc Le Gallic

在 2021 年 5 月与灶神集团（ZS Hospitality Group） 联手开设餐厅之前，Barry 已于 2017 年在同区开设了 他的首间餐厅 Beet，并从那时开始与邻近的农牧业者 建立了合作关系。他表示 ： 「藉由亲自探访香港本地农 场，我见证了农牧业者们为从无到有的种植所付出的 努力，以及时令季节和台风等气候为他们带来的影响。 」 「许多人对本地食材没有特别概念，因此我努力确 保 Whey 所使用的尽可能是取自本地的当令食材，并 物尽其用，避免浪费。我和许多合作伙伴建立了默契， 他们对于我想找的食材和接下来会是什么食材的产季 等皆了若指掌。举例来说，甜玉米、茄子、洛神花和 南瓜皆属当令食材，因此我会顺应时令并善加使用。 」 因此，Barry 每三个月便更换菜单，但菜单上仍会 保留他心目中的经典风味及料理，包括选用新界猪排 骨、白胡椒及香蒜制成的肉骨茶。他说 ： 「这是我回新 加坡时会与家人共享的一道菜，而且我非常喜欢这家 新界养猪农场，他们的猪肉品质非常好。 」Barry 所指 的是位于元朗的华记农场，猪只在外自由放养，不仅 使用最少量的抗生素，生病时亦会施予中药治疗。 对细节和质量的坚持同样反映在按照葡萄品种分 「按照葡萄品种来分类，品 类的酒单上。Marc 表示 ： 饮者可以对葡萄酒酿造地和风土条件有更深入的了解， 并感受各个地区的葡萄酒所展现的不同风貌。 」他挑选 了三款较小众的布尔冈葡萄酒来搭配三道创意料理， 让主厨和侍酒师得以完美地将多样食材与不同的布尔 冈酒品巧妙搭配。 其中开胃菜北海道扇贝搭配来自布尔冈南部马孔 法 定 产 区 普 里 斯 村 Mâcon-Prissé, En Chailloux, 2017

Domaine Jules Desjourney 霞多丽白酒。Marc 介绍说 ： 「2017 年的布尔冈相对于其他年份，气侯较温暖，葡萄 带有自然的熟成度，因此葡萄酒口感丰富，少了橡木味， 其酸度及矿物味与海鲜十分合拍，我想以这种清爽来 揭开餐饮体验的序幕。 」 接下来是 Barry 的招牌菜银鳕鱼饼佐亚参酱与巴克 豆，搭配来自法国科多尔省 Domaine Cécile Tremblay

hard work that goes into growing everything from scratch and how they’re so dependent on what’s in season and what’s happening with the weather – typhoons, for example.

“A lot of consumers aren’t aware of the importance of eating local ingredients, so at Whey, I make sure that what’s on the menu is as local and in season as possible and that nothing is wasted. I’ve established some close relationships with our partners so they know what ingredients I’m looking for and what might be coming up. Sweet corn, eggplant, roselle flowers, and pumpkin are all in season right now, so I’m making the most of them at Whey.”

Reflecting this focus on seasonality, Quek also changes the menu every three months while retaining some key flavors and dishes that are close to his heart, including “Bak Kut Teh” New

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2018 黑皮诺红酒，让馥郁的香气及丰富红熟的果味跃 「单宁过于紧致会盖过银鳕鱼的风味， 然舌上。Marc 说： 而黑皮诺自然的酸度则带来清爽感。 」 另一道选用当地新鲜海鲜所制成的咖喱叻沙佐蒟 蒻米，搭配 Rully Premier Cru 2017 红酒── 来自布尔 冈夏隆内丘 Domaine Saint-Jacques 的黑皮诺葡萄酒。 「叻沙的风味辛辣而浓烈，不易找到适 Marc 介绍道 ： 合搭配的酒，但这支品质优于村庄级的好酒，并未受 到这道菜本身的辛香料和鲜味影响，依然展现出丰富 的层次。 」

Whey 的餐饮搭配挑战，同样令 Barry 主厨兴趣 盎然 ： 「自开业以来经历的一切，是一段不可思议的旅 程。如今，我们想透过喜爱的新加坡食材，带领宾客 展开一段横跨欧洲、澳洲和亚洲的餐饮体验。 」

Curry laksa served with konjac rice 咖喱叻沙佐蒟蒻米

PAIRINGS

Territories Pork Rib with White Pepper and Garlic. “It’s the same dish I’d have back home in Singapore with my family,” he says. “And I love working with the farm that rears the pigs, because they’re the best quality.” Wah Kee Farm in Yuen Long allows pigs to roam freely outside, uses minimal antibiotics, and administers traditional Chinese medicine when they’re sick.

The same attention to detail and quality is apparent in Whey’s wine list, which is organized by grape variety. “We want the wine drinker to have a sense of the winemaker and the terroirs and see the different styles that wines from various regions can express,” says Le Gallic. He has chosen three lesser-known Bourgogne wines to pair with three dishes created for the menu. The opportunity for the chef and sommelier to highlight a wide variety of ingredients along with different styles of Bourgogne wine has turned out to be a rewarding adventure.

One case in point is the chef’s Hokkaido scallop appetizer teamed with a white wine made from chardonnay grapes, Mâcon-Prissé, En Chailloux, 2017 from Domaine Jules Desjourney in the village of Prissé in Mâconnais, the southernmost part of Bourgogne. “The year 2017 in Bourgogne is a textural vintage and less oak-driven in style than a typical vintage, due to the warm climate conditions and the grapes’ natural ripeness showing through,º” says Le Gallic. “The acidity and minerality pair really well with seafood, and I wanted to keep the freshness to start the meal.”

For Quek’s signature dish, Black Cod “Otah-Otah” with Asam Sauce and Petal Beans, the sommelier selects a 2018 red wine made from pinot noir grapes and produced by Domaine Cécile Tremblay in the Bourgogne Côte d’Or Régionale appellation. It was chosen for its high aroma profile and plenty of ripe red fruit on the palate. “Anything too tannic would overpower the black cod,” notes Le Gallic, “and the natural acidity of the pinot noir again gives that freshness.”

Curry laksa made with fresh local seafood and served with konjac rice finds its partner in a Rully Premier Cru, a 2017 red wine made from pinot noir and produced by Domaine Saint-Jacques in the Bourgogne region of Côte Chalonnaise.

“With its strong, spicy seafood flavors, laksa is quite a complicated dish to pair,” says Le Gallic. “But this wine, which is of higher quality than a village-level wine, has more complexity and isn’t overpowered by the spice and umami flavors.”

Chef Quek equally relishes the challenge of Whey’s culinary balancing act: “Since we’ve opened, it’s been a real journey for us. And now we want to take our guests on a culinary tour across Europe, Australia, and Asia using all the ingredients I love from Singapore.”

Chef Barry Quek ← Black Cod “Otah-Otah” with Asam Sauce and Petal Beans 银鳕鱼饼佐亚参酱与巴克豆

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Fresh clementine supremes, clementine sorbet, French meringue, cream parfait, and tuile 精选小柑橘、柑橘雪葩、 法式蛋白霜、奶油芭菲与脆饼

灵感极简

Fabien Vergé

可能无限

pure inspiration Épure’s chef de cuisine finds modern ways to coax French flavors to new heights.

Fabien Vergé 在青少年时期，被父亲送去友人 FABIEN VERGÉ only discovered his passion for the culinary arts as a 在意大利阿尔巴的餐厅帮忙，因而发现了自己 teenager, when his father packed him off to help out at a friend’s res对餐饮艺术的热情。整整三个月里，Fabien 于 taurant in Alba, Italy. After three months of dutifully learning the ins and 厨房各部门勤恳学习，并提出了留任的要求。他 outs of various sections of the kitchen, it was Vergé himself who asked 回想 ： 「 我 深 受 Michel Guérard 和 Michel Bras to stay on. “I was inspired by the way some chefs like Michel Guérard 等主厨对于鲜蔬食材及其他农产品 and Michel Bras talk about vegetables and other products,” BY 的热诚所启发，他们只需拿起一颗 he says. “They could take something like a clementine and MAMIE CHEN 小柑橘，便能清楚预见它蜕变为目 clearly envision its transformation to the goal. They could • 标菜式的过程。他们对自己每天的 see what they were doing like this every day, and I thought I PHOTOGRAPHY BY 工作如此了若指掌，我也想成为那 could be that kind of person.”

SAMANTHA SIN 样的人。 」 Vergé went on to train under Yannick Alléno at threeFabien 之后于米其林三星餐厅 Michelin-starred Le Meurice and then helmed his own Le Meurice 拜师于 Yannick Alléno 门下，并在台 Michelin-starred Taipei restaurant, La Cocotte. Now he joins Hong 北开设米其林星级餐厅 La Cocotte。如今，他亦 Kong’s Michelin-starred Épure as its newly appointed chef de cuisine. 以新任主厨的身份，加入香港米其林星级法式餐 There, by starting with products and ingredients that speak to him, 厅 Épure。 he daily demonstrates his ability to draw inspiration from the world 在餐厅里，他选用认可的农产品与食材， around him and take those ingredients into unexplored territory. The

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PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

Blue lobster, carabinero, Hokkaido scallop, Périgord truffle, caviar, onion confit, leek, sea asparagus, marbled kombu sheet 蓝龙虾、西班牙红虾、 北海道干贝、黑松露、 鱼子酱、油封洋葱、 韭葱、海芦笋与石纹昆布

chef’s remarkable dessert of fresh clementine supremes, clementine sorbet, French meringue, cream parfait, and tuile shows off a broad range of textures, from pulpiness to chewiness to creaminess to crispiness. But the dish’s flavor profile remains purely and simply focused on the clementine.

According to Vergé, three one-word concepts encompass his philosophy. “The first,” he explains, “is essentiel , which means less is more. I like to get to the point of the dish, usually with a maximum of three flavors. Here, even the edible flower garnishes have a green and fresh citrus flavor that elevates the clementines.” The remaining concepts are partage , which involves diners sharing and connecting over food, and voyager , which embraces the idea of traveling, looking around, and taking inspiration from experience.

Vergé cites a historic illustration of voyager found in the white beans that are featured in classic French cassoulet. The original dish, he points out, was made with fava beans until white beans were introduced to Europe from South America and innovatively incorporated into the traditional dish.

In that spirit, Vergé notes that while French cuisine typically adds beans to savory dishes, Asian cuisines commonly use sweet bean pastes in desserts, and so it would be entirely possible for a future Épure dessert to feature white beans.

“Ultimately,” he says, “we’re a French restaurant and we focus on French food. But then again, if we find something that fits, and if it’s interesting, we do love to play and have a bit of fun.”

汲取各地的灵感并大展身手，探索食材未知的潜 柑橘雪葩、 力。主厨引以为傲的甜点 – 精选小柑橘、 法式蛋白霜、奶油芭菲与脆饼 – 展现出各式口感， 或软糯、或嚼劲、或绵滑、或酥脆，应有尽有， 然而这道甜点的焦点依然放在小柑橘上。

Fabien 透露，他的厨艺哲学围绕着三个核心 概念。他说道 ： 「首先，是『本质』 ，少即是多。 我喜欢精确展现菜式的核心，通常呈现不多于三 种味道。在这道甜点里， 即使用以装饰的食用花朵， 也带有清鲜的味道，足以提出小柑橘的风味。 」其 他两个概念分别是「分享」 ，让宾客透过分享餐点 ， 鼓励旅行， 游历四方， 以使感情加温 ; 以及「追寻」 并从环游世界的见闻中汲取灵感。 为说明「追寻」 ，Fabien 以法国乡村经典名 菜「卡酥莱砂锅」里的白腰豆为例。他指出，这 道菜的原始食谱使用的是蚕豆，而当白腰豆从南 美洲引进欧洲后，便被巧妙地运用在这道传统菜 肴之中。

Fabien 由此推理，既然法式菜肴经常选用豆 类制作咸食料理，而亚洲料理则常在甜点里采用 甜味的豆馅， Épure 将来的甜点出现白腰豆的身影， 也算是顺水推舟，合情合理。 他表示 ： 「说到底，我们是一家法式餐厅，主 要提供法国菜，但若找到了合适的食材且能做出 很多新变化，我们当然乐于尝试、发挥创意。 」 a taste of home

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Guillaume Brochard 蒋伯怡

MOVERS & SHAKERS

亲民贵族

approachable sophistication Guillaume Brochard is known as an accomplished entrepreneur who in 2004 cofounded high-end jewelry brand Qeelin. Recently, he leveraged his years of experience with luxury goods to create G. Brochard, his distinctive brand of fine French wines personally selected to suit every occasion. Brochard speaks to TK about his journey. § 蒋伯怡（Guillaume Brochard）是位成功的企业家，他与合伙人在2004年共同

创立高级珠宝品牌 Qeelin。最近他凭借在奢华商品方面积累下来的经验，创立了卓越的法国葡萄酒 品牌 G.Brochard 柏弈，一系列由他亲自严选的葡萄酒可满足不同饮用场合的需求。蒋先生与TK分 享了他创业路上的心路历程。

How did your deep connection with Chinese culture come about?

My parents were fascinated by China and my childhood was filled with stories about it. I studied history with a focus on China and then worked in the region for many years. I thought the future of luxury was in China and identified the market that was the least branded – jewelry – and then launched Qeelin.

And how about your interest in the wine business?

Every French person has a connection to wine in one way or another. Wine culture is family culture in France – wine was part of conversation at home from when we were very young. And my family spent holidays in the Champagne region when I was a kid.

DAVE MARCO

What prompted your shift from jewelry to wine?

Even when I was working in jewelry, I was a wine lover. And when I sold the jewelry business, I decided I was too young to retire. It didn’t take me long to decide on wine, since it had been a passion for many years. It fits my lifestyle – I live between China and France, and wine is a good excuse to travel. I like big cities but I also like the countryside, and wine is made in the countryside but sold in big cities.

您是如何建立与中国文化的深厚渊源？ 我的父母很喜欢中国，所以我的童年里充斥着 各种关于中国的故事。我专研中国史，并在内地工 作多年。我认为，中国是奢华商品未来的主要市场， 并在市场调查后发现珠宝品牌相当具有开发潜力， 继而决定创立 Qeelin 珠宝。

您是如何开始对经营葡萄酒行业有兴趣？ 葡萄酒与法国人的关系几乎密不可分。在法国， 葡萄酒文化可说是家庭文化。从小以来，在家中谈 起葡萄酒已是家常便饭，我小时候也常和家人在香 槟区度假。

是什么原因促使您从珠宝业转战葡萄酒？ 我从事珠宝工作时就是个葡萄酒爱好者，卖掉 珠宝品牌时也还未到退休的年纪。我这么多年来都 对葡萄酒充满热爱，因此我很快就决定了要转行从 事葡萄酒业。因为经营葡萄酒，成就了我最向往的 生活方式，让我能在中国与法国两地奔走，有机会 到处旅游。不论是生活在大城市或农村，我都很喜 欢，而葡萄酒正是在农村生产再销往各大城市。 a taste of home

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Don’t make pleasure too intellectual – speak to the heart and not too much to the brain.

享受快乐时应倾听自己的内心， 不用过于理智。

Do you see any link between fine jewelry and fine wines?

When talking about both jewelry and wine, the language used by experts can be complicated. But luxury is all about feelings and enjoying a dream. So we shouldn’t talk too much about the product itself, because people are less interested in technical matters and more into emotions. Don’t make pleasure too intellectual – speak to the heart and not too much to the brain.

您认为顶级珠宝和高级葡萄酒有 何关联？ 专家在谈论珠宝和葡萄酒时 使用的术语都相当复杂。奢华商品 融入了情感与梦想，所以我们不太 谈论产品本身，因人们通常对产品 技术较不感兴趣，反而追求精神层 面的满足。享受快乐时应倾听自己 的内心，不用过于理智。

葡萄酒的产地来自哪里？ 大多数来自法国波尔多产区。

Where are the wines produced?

我在那里定居、经营酒庄并生产制

Most are made in Bordeaux. I settled there and bought chateaux there and they’re made from our properties in the region.

造葡萄酒。

What differences do you find between the Chinese and European wine markets?

The Chinese wine market hasn’t reached maturity yet. Wine remains a beverage for gatherings and celebrations, but in France, it’s more of a daily drink. China likes brands, but in France, people prefer small chateaux and independent winemakers.

The main issue is trust – the Chinese may not be able to decipher the label or know where the wine comes from, and there’s a history of counterfeit wines in China. In France, you wouldn’t suspect that a product could be fake wine. I try to simplify the message so the Chinese will consider me a trustworthy brand.

您认为中国和欧洲的葡萄酒市场 有何不同？ 中国的葡萄酒市场尚未发展 成熟，葡萄酒仍是在聚会和庆祝活 动时才会饮用。但在法国，葡萄酒 更像是一种日常饮品。相较中国喜 欢大品牌的葡萄酒，法国更看重小 规模的独立酒庄。 两者主要的差别在于信任方 面。在中国，部分市场存在产品标 签虚假或难以辨识葡萄酒来源等情 况，以往也曾经发生假酒售卖的事 件。但在法国，则不会有人质疑酒 的真伪。我尽量将资讯简化，清楚 标示，以说明我的品牌是值得信赖 的。

您的酿酒哲学是什么？ COURTESY OF GUILLAUME BROCHARD

What is your winemaking philosophy?

Commitment to quality and different levels of sophistication. Some of my friends lack self-confidence when it comes to wine, but you don’t need to be a specialist to enjoy wine. Ours are high-quality wines, but I want to make it easy for consumers. I have a passion for wine, and I want my wines to be related to happy times and to trust.

提供卓越的品质和制造风味 不同的葡萄酒是品牌的承诺。我有 一些朋友因为不了解葡萄酒，因而 也不敢评论，但其实不是内行人也 能尽情享受萄萄酒。我们提供的都 是优质葡萄酒，但我希望使它们的 感觉更平易近人。我对葡萄酒情有 独钟，希望我的葡萄酒能成为人们 的幸福泉源与信任之选。 a taste of home

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酒逢知己

shared philosophy The friendship of two Hong Kong sommeliers blossoms into a thriving wine consultancy.

Reeze Choi and Wallace Lo

曾获无数国际大奖的 Reeze Choi 和 Wallace Lo， REEZE CHOI AND WALLACE LO have amply demonstrated their 在各大赛事中展现了他们丰富的侍酒知识、经验 knowledge, experience, and tasting skills across the vast world of wines 和品酒技巧。他们曾参与香港、内地及世界各地 and spirits by winning multiple distinctions at international sommelier 的赛事，也因而结下了深厚情谊，这也是其后 competitions. But vying for awards in Hong Kong, Mainland China, 共同创办 Somm’s Philosophy 餐饮顾问公司的契 and around the globe also brought them together as friends, forging 机。 a bond that would later see them joining forces at Somm’s BY 藉 由 相 同 的 成 长 背 景 和 理 念， Philosophy, their beverage and sommelier consultancy that CHRIS DWYER 两人从 2017 年便开始着手创业的计 has quickly made a name for itself.

• 「我们 划。创办人之一的 Reeze 说 ： They’d talked about teaming up since 2017, given that PHOTOGRAPHY BY 对于侍酒共有的理念，让我们决定 they were both born and raised in Hong Kong and hold SAMANTHA SIN 一起合作。我们都认为侍酒师是侍 similar philosophies. “It’s the way we think about what a 者，不是镁光灯下的焦点。葡萄酒 sommelier is,” says company founder Choi. “We’re servers, 不专属于侍酒师，而是属于每一个人，因此侍 not superstars, and we listen when we talk about wine, because wine 酒最重要的并非介绍酒品，而是倾听他人的想 is for everyone.” 法。 」 Such an open and honest approach made them firm favorites with 以「倾听」为核心的侍酒理念，让他们一 chefs as they grew in their careers: Choi worked in the wine program at 直以来都是各大餐厅的宠儿。Reeze 曾于香港 L’Atelier de Jöel Robuchon and Lo at such renowned spots as Haku. “We 的 L’Atelier de Jöel Robuchon 法式餐厅服务，而 really love to work with chefs,” says Lo, “because we’re the ones who see the end users consuming their products. We spend a lot of time Wallace 也 曾 与 香 港 的 Haku 等 知 名 餐 厅 合 作。 「我们很喜欢跟厨师合作。我们很 studying pairings, understanding what goes on between the beverage Wallace 说 ： 清楚消费者是如何看待这些酒品的，也花了很多 and the food.” 时间研究酒品和食物的搭配。 」 At Somm’s Philosophy, they take on everything from designing wine lists to crafting wine-pairing menus and running specialized, Somm’s Philosophy 提供全方位的酒品顾问 服务，包括酒单的设计、酒品和餐点的搭配、客 tailor-made training for staff alongside other consultancy services. Their 制化的侍酒人员专业培训等等，未来甚至计划要 scope even extends to conducting wine-appreciation programs in pri提供私人到府的品酒教学服务。 vate homes. a taste of home

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But it’s clearly the fine points of wine pairing that they most enjoy. “We also pair food with shochu , sake, whisky, and mezcal,” says Lo. “At Haku I served a red wine with Hokkaido tuna and then a shot of whisky with Chef Balbi’s Wagyu beef. It was mind-blowing to have that on a tasting menu! There are so many aspects and elements that impact wine, so the details are crucial. If the temperature increases by even one degree, for example, it can change the experience. Reeze and I always disagree with each other – my palate is more edgy, squeezing and spraying, his is more classical.”

Collaborating with chefs constantly inspires them as their different ways of thinking spark them to come up with wholly new pairings. They name-drop an A-list of Hong Kong restaurants, including Estro, Mono, VEA, and Tate Dining Room, as especially intriguing partners, thanks to their modern gastronomic styles and use of unusual flavors and techniques, like fermenting and pickling, that make for challenging pairings.

The pair are well aware of recent multiple changes in the local dining scene. “Hong Kong is a very mature market,” says Choi, “but we both see room for new ideas. Some restaurants now can’t afford a full-time sommelier to work on the floor, but they still deserve a very good beverage program at a reasonable price. We help train staff to become wine servers able to give suggestions on wines and we train them how to communicate about wines and sell them.

Not many sommeliers, with all their knowledge, can use it to really understand flavors and bring that to the table so that diners can experience what wine should be.”

As Somm’s Philosophy continues on its upward growth curve, Choi and Lo formulate possibilities for the future. “I want to see more local Cantonese cuisine in Hong Kong and one day craft pairings with dim sum or dai pai dong cuisine,” says Lo. “Chinese, Japanese, Western, casual, fine-dining restaurants – there are so many opportunities to play with different things.”

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“Hong Kong is a very mature market, but we both see room for new ideas.

虽然香港品酒市场的发展相当成熟， 但我们认为还是有进步的空间。” Reeze Choi

“I want to see more local cuisine and one day craft pairings with dim sum or dai pai dong cuisine.

我期待在未来，香港的侍酒师可以设计出 适合粤菜、港式点心、大排档的酒单。” Wallace Lo

不过，对两人来说，工作中最大的乐趣 莫过于设计美酒美食之间的搭配。Wallace 说： 「除了葡萄酒外，我们也涉猎烧酒、清酒、梅 斯卡尔酒等。在 Haku，我会以红酒搭配北海 道呑拿鱼，以一口威士忌搭配 Balbi 主厨的和 牛料理。这些搭配都相当绝妙！很多因素都 会影响葡萄酒的风味，所以细节很重要。举 例来说，在酒品的温控上，温度每升高一度， 葡萄酒的风味就会有所不同。我和 Reeze 常 常意见相左 – – 我的口味比较前卫大胆，他的 相对传统一些。 」 和 各 大 餐 厅 主 厨 合 作， 让 他 们 持 续 创 新，想出许多新主意。他们列举了一些香港 本地餐厅，像是 Estro、Mono、VEA 和 TATE Dining Room 等，这些餐厅的风格新颖、餐点 口味特殊，大量使用发酵、腌渍等特殊料理 手法，会使推荐酒品的任务更具挑战性。 酒品和食物的搭配，也会因各地饮食文 「虽然香港品酒市场的发 化而异。Reeze 说 ： 展相当成熟，但我们认为还是有进步的空间。 有些餐厅没办法负担全职侍酒师的成本，但 他们还是需要好的酒品顾问。我们能提供相 关人员的训练，让服务人员有能力介绍、推荐， 甚至是推销酒品。不见得所有专业的侍酒师 都可以参透酒品的学问，更遑论让顾客体会 到酒品真正的风味。 」 随 着 Somm’s Philosophy 的 业 务 发 展， Reeze 和 Wallace 对 未 来 充 满 希 望。Wallace 说： 「我期待在未来，香港的侍酒师可以设计 出适合粤菜、港式点心、大排档的酒单，甚 至是专属于中国菜、日本料理、西餐、平民 小吃、高级料理的酒单 —— 酒品和食物的搭 配充满了无限的可能。 」 a taste of home

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Sautéed shredded mandarin fish 龙须鱼丝

意北佳酿 和谐之悦

unexpected harmony At yè shanghai, wines from Northern Italy pair perfectly with Huaiyang-inspired cuisine.

说到餐酒配搭，夜上海行政总厨施万岁表示 ： “THE BEST WINES ARE LIKE DIPLOMATS,” says Sze Man Sui, execu「最好的餐酒，应该像一位外交官，生性平易 tive chef yè shanghai. “They’re approachable by nature, unobtrusively 近人，能够暗中连结客人与菜肴，甚至掀动场 connecting guests with their food and even lifting the overall experience.” 内气氛。 」 The overall experience at the acclaimed Hong Kong restaurant is a 夜上海的氛围雅致，重现老 glamorous one evoking the sensuous and alluring ambience BY 上海的浪漫情怀和迷人风情，是施 of old Shanghai, which makes an ideal setting for Chef Sze’s JOYCE KWOK 师傅呈现一系列苏、浙、沪经典菜 imaginative menus that embrace cuisines from Shanghai and • 式的绝佳舞台。 neighboring provinces like Jiangsu and Zhejiang.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 最近，施师傅与餐厅集团执 Recently, he and Bernard Lam, executive director of Elite SAMANTHA SIN 行董事林大群合作，为餐厅两道淮 Concepts, came together to find the perfect pairing for two of 扬名菜「龙须鱼丝」及「红烧牛肋 yè shanghai’s most popular Huaiyang-inspired dishes, Sautéed 排」 ，寻找最合适的配酒。 Shredded Mandarin Fish and Braised Beef Ribs with Premium Brown 昔日淮扬人宴客配酒，总离不开热烫的 Sauce. 黄酒，好能品出酒的香醇，也收暖身、驱寒之 In Huaiyang, people wouldn’t dream of having a feast without wine. 效 ；纵使往后渐渐转向品饮西方餐酒，亦多以 In the past, it was usually warm yellow wine, that mellow spirit perfect 法国、德国及葡萄牙出品为主。几经尝试，俩 for repelling the cold. Today, many there have turned to wines from 人最后敲定选用意大利北部皮埃蒙特著名家族 France, Germany, and Portugal. But after much experimentation, Sze and 萨蒂拉诺（Sartirano）百年酒庄 San Silvestro Lam selected wines from San Silvestro and Costa di Bussia, century-old 的两瓶佳酿。这个由四代人经营的酒庄，百年 wineries run by the Sartirano family in Piedmont in Northern Italy. The a taste of home

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Executive Chef Sze Man Sui and Executive Director of Elite Concepts Bernard Lam 行政总厨施万岁及优意集团执行董事林大群

winery’s fourth-generation owners have made some of the world’s best wines from grapes native to the surrounding region, including dolcetto and nebbiolo. These wines, celebrated for their robust tannins, charming blackberry aromas, and elegant, delicate layering, have gone on to be crowned at several international wine competitions.

Yè shanghai ’s innovative foray into Northern Italian wines is right in line with the requirements of Huaiyang cuisine for harmony, essence, and purity. Lam agrees and believes that wine pairing is a refined science of the tongue. “Any sommelier worth his salt not only intimately knows the personality of each wine but is familiar with the cooking process and flavor elements of every dish.” For the restaurant’s classic signature dish, Sautéed Shredded Mandarin Fish, he has chosen a 2019 Altego Piemonte DOC, which he describes as “very approachable” in flavor.

In this instance, Lam overturns the dictum that red wines go only with meat. Surprisingly, the 2019 Altego gently accentuates the smoothness and sweetness of the fish. And the hand-cut and marinated fish is seasoned with egg white, salt, and vinegar, ingredients that soften the contrast between the delicate taste of fresh fish and the wine’s strong tannins, allowing guests to experience a true harmony of flavors.

The restaurant’s for-sharing main dish, Braised Beef Ribs with Premium Brown Sauce, has been paired with a 2016 Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo ‘Luigi Arnulfo’ Barolo DOCG. Thanks to its oak-barrel aging, this single-origin nebbiolo red is distinguished by its beautifully resolved tannins. When paired with the dish’s traditional Chinese marinade, the wine’s acidic notes are further sublimated into fragrant sweet and fruity ones. The Barolo not only deepens the braised beef’s umami flavor and the pungency of its seasoning but also adds an intriguing sweetness on the palate.

Italian wines like these, which continue to lead China’s wine culture into new areas of maturity and growth, are capable of turning any meal, particularly the creative dishes of yè shanghai , into a celebration of taste.

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来积极起用该区的原生葡萄品种，例如多尔切 、内比奥罗（nebbiolo）等酿酒， 多（dolcetto） 酒品主见单宁强劲、厚重，更散发阵阵迷人的 黑色水果香气，层次堪为细致、高雅，难怪是 近年国际葡萄酒比赛的得奖常客。 如今夜上海以意北酒配菜，似乎更合淮扬 菜 讲 求 的「 和、 精、 清 」 。 在 林 先 生 眼 中， 配 酒是一场舌尖上的科学。 「称职的侍酒师，除 了 熟 知 每 瓶 酒 的 个 性， 更 要 知 道 菜 肴 的 烹 调 过程，以及风味元素。 」以经典的河鲜招牌菜 式「龙须鱼丝」为例，他便特意配搭 2019 年的

Piemonte DOC Altego，一款他形容为「平易近 人」的葡萄酒。 这个配搭颠扑了「红酒只能配红肉」的不 破铁律。这支葡萄酒出奇地提升鱼丝的爽滑、 甜感，而腌制手切龙脷鱼丝的调味中有蛋白、 盐和醋，三者俱能柔化传统鱼鲜与单宁酸激荡 的冲突感，让客人充分感受和谐的美妙。 至于原为本帮菜、味属「浓油赤酱」的分 享主菜「红烧牛肋排」 ，二人则决定以 2016 年 的 Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo ‘Luigi Arnulfo’ Barolo DOCG 配衬。林先生认为，这支用内比奥 罗葡萄酿制的单品红酒，经橡木桶陈酿后，葡 萄原本的单宁酸早变得柔和 ；而菜式的红烧卤 水胆，则进一步将葡萄蕴藏的酸香升华成馥郁 的果甜。而有了这支葡萄酒，菜肴也不独只有 深沉的海鲜酱咸鲜及香料的微辛，咀嚼间更添 一重耐人寻味的甜美，让人顿时充满欣喜。 如此别具风味的意大利葡萄酒，将继续推 动中国葡萄酒文化的发展和成长，并能够与各 种菜肴，尤其是夜上海的创新美味相配，打造 更多餐酒搭配的味觉艺术。

Braised beef ribs with premium brown sauce 红烧牛肋排

PRESENTED BY ART YZEN GRAND LAPA MACAU

乘风启航

setting sail again Vasco Bar and Lounge is open once more and on course as Macau’s most exciting nightspot.

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Vasco’s Old Fashioned

Bartender Paulo Canezo 调酒师 Paulo Canezo

NAMED AF TER the Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama, who charted a trade route to India during the Age of Discovery, Vasco Bar and Lounge at Artyzen Grand Lapa Macau is back after a year’s hiatus, sailing into 2022 with a newly curated cocktail program and a standout entertainment lineup.

Pouring cocktails inspired by the explorer’s journey from Portugal to the East are Bartender Paulo Canezo and his team. “There’s a lot of showmanship that goes into each concoction,” he says. “It’s a really nice way to engage with guests as we prepare their drinks.”

Beyond cocktails and spirits, Vasco now offers afternoon tea sets and unique coffee creations that can be enjoyed in either the bar or at the mezzanine. Coming up for guests are Vasco’s “rituals,” including its Shipman’s Punch, a midpoint refreshing spritzer, and its signature Parting Shot offered before guests leave the bar.

Nightly offers and live entertainment are also on deck. Friends of Vasco Night on each Tuesday offers 30 percent cocktail discounts to those in the Macau hospitality and gaming industries. On Wednesday’s Smoke & Bubbles Night, every lady receives a complimentary glass of Bubble Rosé Sparkling and can play a game to win a bottle. Thursday’s Flight Night has a 30 percent discount for all spirits flights.

There’s a DJ every Wednesday and Friday and the Live Duo house band on Saturdays. Each Bubbly Sunday offers 50 percent discounts on bottles of selected sparkling wines. Tuesdays to Sundays feature Happy Hours, with drink specials 50 percent off for all guests from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Night Owls offers 30 percent discounts after 10:00 p.m. every Friday to Sunday. “We want guests to come and have a new experience,” says Canezo. “The cocktails, the coffee journeys, the entertainment – everything has been elevated. It’s a whole new Vasco.”

Cosmotini

乘风廊酒吧的名字来自葡萄牙探险家华士古 · 达伽 马，他在地理大发现时代绘制出通往印度的贸易路 径。乘风廊酒吧座落于澳门雅辰酒店，最近再度启 航，以全新酒单和非凡的娱乐体验驶向 2022 年。 调 酒 师 Paulo Canezo 和 团 队 设 计 的 鸡 尾 酒， 灵感来自这位探险家航行至远东的旅程。Paulo 说 ： 「每杯调酒都像一场精彩表演。我们通过这种方式 一边制作饮料，一边与客人接触互动。 」除了鸡尾 酒与烈酒，乘风廊酒吧还提供下午茶套餐与特调咖 啡，让顾客在酒吧或中庭享用。此外，乘风廊酒吧 也即将推出别开生面的日常待客「仪式」 ，像是清 新的白葡萄酒气泡饮 Shipman’s Punch，就是让顾 客在到店时间过半时享用。客人即将离开酒吧的时 。 候，酒店亦提供招牌 Parting Shot（临别饮） 乘风廊酒吧也为客人准备了每日惊喜。周二的 「乘风廊品味夜」为酒店业同业提供七折鸡尾酒折 扣 ；在周三的「夜迷泡沫女士夜」 ，每位女宾都能 免费享用一杯玫瑰气酒，酒面是一个烟雾弥漫的风 味气泡，更可以游戏「玩」取瓶装气泡酒。在周四 的「烈酒不夜天」 ，享用烈酒可享七折优惠。 每个周三及周五，乘风廊酒吧都会有 DJ 驻店， 周六则有双人乐队现场演奏。周日气泡时光精选瓶 装气泡酒可享五折优惠 ；逢周二至日由 5 時 30 分至 8 時 30 分之欢乐时光，餐牌项目五折优惠 ；由每个 周五至周日晚上十時起还有「猫头鹰」时光，提供 「我们希望以鸡尾酒、 七折特调饮料折扣。Paulo 表示： 特调咖啡、娱乐表演让宾客享受到全新的感官体验。 随着服务和酒单全面升级，乘风廊酒吧将开展一趟 新旅程。 」 a taste of home

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Fortified Margarita

COCKTAILS

惬意格调

relaxed meets refined The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge offers a sophisticated setting for indulgence in handcrafted cocktails and irresistible bites.

RICH SHADES OF DEEP BROWN create an intimate space that evokes both tradition and timeless style. Burnished hardwood flooring, plush sofas, and touches of contrasting colors make a classic design statement. Uninterrupted views of Cotai from the fifty-first floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Macau, provide a dramatic backdrop to the sinuous curve of a bar topped with Italian marble.

Champagne tea sets for leisurely afternoons and signature cocktails for glittering nights ensure that guests may relax for a moment or be captivated for an evening. Lavish afternoon tea culture comes to Macau with an extensive offering of savory treats and luscious patisseries. Also on the menu BY are favorites like Beef Burger, Foie Gras and Wagyu ROBERT BURKLEY Beef Sliders, Black Truffle Dusted Frites, Garlic • Prawn in Chili Oil, and Fried Calamari with Spicy PHOTOGRAPHY Cocktail Sauce.

BY JIN LAO As day turns to night, The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge transforms into an exciting evening destination featuring a refreshing gin and tonic menu, classic cocktails, and signatures like the Macau Red Bean Fleecy.

Guests discover an entirely different drinking experience with the new Refined Essences Cocktail Menu, designed to excite the palate. Eight luxurious craft drinks, incorporating ingredients both sweet and savory, take inspiration from award-winning culinary delights inspired by The Ritz-Carlton, Macau.

East meets West in the Complextini, a layered concoction that evokes the nourishing umami notes of Cantonese doubleboiled soup. Based on a classic vodka martini, it highlights conpoy and morels, elevated further by the gentle aroma of shiso.

The Macau Red Bean Fleecy is a nostalgic vodka-based expression of red bean ice, the traditional Cantonese dessert drink commonly served in cha chaan tengs. Japanese azuki beans are restructured with molecular gastronomy techniques and paired with rose, Earl Grey gin, coconut milk, and more.

Director of Food & Beverage Johnny Sit

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COCKTAILS

The Art of Perfection–“Super Easy” is a botanical gin-based creation glimmering with a depth of flavors: hibiscus, coffee flower, coconut milk, and Earl Grey tonic.

Inspired by classic Italian pizzas, the fun Ritz∙zeria is a balanced blend of basil-infused Tanqueray, elderflower liqueur, homemade tomato-andwhite-onion essence, and parmesan cheese. “Beats” Wine is a smooth creation based on a reduction of vodka and ruby port, with subtle flavors of a Mediterranean beetrootand-feta-cheese salad and aromas of stone fruit.

Promising fortified takes on tried-and-true tropical flavors, favorites like the Margarita, Mai Tai, and Piña Colada have been sumptuously elevated. And guests are invited to stimulate the senses even further by enjoying the new cocktails every Wednesday to Saturday in an ambience enhanced by live music.

Complextini

丽思酒廊浓郁深沉的褐色调空间营造出温馨愉悦的氛围， 体现传统隽永的风格。 磨光实木地板、丰盈柔软的沙发，以及对比强烈的色彩，建构出令人印象深刻 的经典设计意象。从澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店的 51 楼向外望，路氹的辽阔景致一 览无遗，这片风景也成为了以意大利云石制成、波纹曲线设计的吧台背景。 不管是悠闲午后的香槟下午茶套餐还是动人晚间的鸡尾酒，不管是来此 放松片刻还是欢度良宵，酒廊的氛围与服务绝对能让顾客陶醉。澳门下午茶时 光惬意奢华，除了令人食指大动的咸点，更有各式精心制作的糕点供顾客选择。 此外，菜单上还有牛肉汉堡、香煎鹅肝和牛迷你汉堡、黑松露薯条、蒜香虎虾， 以及酥炸鱿鱼等热门佳肴。 丽思酒廊也是众所期待的夜晚好去处，不仅提供各式清爽的琴酒饮品， 也有经典鸡尾酒和 Macau Red Bean Fleecy 等招牌调酒。 全新推出的经典鸡尾酒单，绝对能为宾客带来不同于以往的品酒体验。 八款奢华的调酒皆运用不同的甜咸食材手工调制而成，灵感更是来自丽思卡尔 顿酒店中获奖无数、具澳葡特色的精致佳肴。 在 Complextini 这杯调酒中，东方情调与西方韵味相互结合，成就其鲜明 的层次，让人不禁想起广东老火汤的甘美鲜味。以经典伏特加马丁尼为基底， 这杯调酒突显出干贝与羊肚菌的滋味，柔和的紫苏香气更使风味升华。

Macau Red Bean Fleecy 以伏特加为基底，向怀旧红豆冰致敬。红豆冰是 广东传统的饮品，通常在茶餐厅供应。酒廊选用日本红豆，并以分子料理技术 改变食材形态，再配搭玫瑰、伯爵茶琴酒、椰奶等，制成红豆冰的外观。

The Art of Perfection –“Super Easy” 是一杯以琴酒为基底的植物风味鸡尾 酒，飘散深度十足、由木槿花、咖啡花、椰奶以及伯爵茶通宁水交织而成的香气。 以经典意大利薄饼为灵感，趣味洋溢的 Ritz∙zeria 是以罗勒浸泡的坦奎丽琴酒、 接骨木花利口酒、自制番茄与白洋葱精华和帕玛森奶酪调制，达到奇妙的完美 平衡。 “Beats” Wine 是一款单以伏特加与露比波特酒制成的调酒，喝起来相 当顺口，还带有地中海甜菜根、希腊菲达沙拉的微妙滋味及核果香气。 历久不衰、备受欢迎的 Margarita、Mai Tai 和 Piña Colada 等热带风味经 典调酒，在香气与风味上也有令人惊艳的大跃进。丽思酒廊邀请顾客每周三至 Macau Red Bean Fleecy

周六，在现场乐团演奏的乐音中，进一步体验层次丰富的感官刺激，品味一系 列全新的鸡尾酒。

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“Beats” Wine

PRESENTED BY ZROU

植物基饮食革命

plant-based revolution An entrepreneurial chef’s innovative product is helping to transform the future of food.

“GET TING INVOLVED in a plant-based business was a natu-

「身为厨师，我去开发植物基食品可谓是自然而

然。 」优脍国际集团联合创办人兼首席创意官陆唯 ral evolution for me as a chef,” says David Laris, cofounder and chief creative officer of YouKuai Group International. In （David Laris）如是说。在 2019 年 11 月，他推出 一种天然植物性肉类 Zrou 株肉，这个名字结合 November 2019, he launched Zrou, a natural, plant-based reinterpretation of meat whose name combines “zero” with “rou,” 「零」（zero）以及中文字「肉」的拼音 rou。这 种植物肉以不含基因改造的大豆制成，先利用椰 the Chinese word for meat. Made from GMO-free soy, it adds 子油来增添馥郁的香气，再加入魔芋来加强口感， coconut oil for richness, konjac to enhance mouthfeel, and shii更添加香菇来提升鲜味。 take mushroom for extra umami. 陆唯认为，未来几年会有更多人选择植物基 Laris believes the years ahead will see greater and greater 饮食，而他的角色是帮助消费者在日常饮食中剔 numbers of people adopting plant-forward diets. His role is 除肉类后，能无感、轻松地适应饮食习惯的改变。 to make the transition easier by ensuring that no one feels 有鉴于此，他组成一支名厨汇聚的合 they’re missing out on meat. With this in mind, he BY 作团队，打造一系列吸引消费者的原 has enlisted the help of a team of celebrity chefs to LUCY MORGAN 创食谱及美味食品。 create original recipes and flavorful products that • 谈及工厂化养殖对环境造成的严 appeal to consumers.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 重影响，以及经常被施打激素、品质 “The food industry is broken,” Laris notes in DAVE MARCO 堪忧的肉类，陆唯表示 ： 「食品产业 surveying the dire environmental impact of factory 已崩坏。生而为人的我们需要重新平 farming and the dubious quality of meat that has 衡我们消费蛋白质的方式。Zrou 株肉的来源清楚 often been injected with hormones. “We as a species need to 明确，消费者也知道在植物与产品之间没有半点 rebalance the way we consume protein. Zrou has guaranteed 动物的痕迹。 」 traceability, and consumers know there’s no animal between plant and product.”

Zrou 株肉以冷冻形式包装，能在意大利肉酱 及麻婆豆腐等各式菜肴中完美取代猪肉。作为更 Zrou is available frozen in ground form and can seamlessly 环保的替代肉类，Zrou 株肉生产过程的碳排放比 replace pork in dishes ranging from Bolognese sauce to mapo 猪肉少 96%，用水量也少 78%。简单来说，假 tofu. As the greener choice, it creates 96 percent less carbon 如用 Zrou 株肉来取代一千公斤的猪肉，效果相当 emissions during production than pork and uses 78 percent 于种植 192 棵树。 less water. In layman’s terms, replacing 1,000 kilograms of pork with Zrou is equivalent to planting 192 trees.

Zrou 株肉与合作的名厨团队努力研发，致力 于为顾客开发完美食谱、提供灵感，让消费者能 The company’s team of cocreator chefs works hard to 在家轻松端出美味料理。针对那些喜欢享用名厨 perfect recipes for Zrou’s customers, providing inspiration to 料理的饕客，Zrou 株肉提供一系列即热即烹的速 make delicious dishes at home. And for epicures who prefer 冻佳肴，不管是用于简单晚餐，还是充当在办公 their meals created by celebrity chefs, Zrou offers a range of 室享用的便利午餐，都是理想首选。 frozen delicacies that can be simply heated and served, perfect 被誉为新式中餐革新者的名厨梁子庚，用 for quick at-home dinners or convenient lunches at the office.

TV superstar chef Jereme Leung, considered a pioneer Zrou 株肉的肉丸制作美味的新加坡风味咖喱肉丸 饭。陆唯指出 ： 「我们不希望只是跟厨师缔结商业 in contemporary Chinese cuisine, has created a delectable 合作关系，而是想跟梁子庚这样充满热忱的厨师 Singaporean curry rice with Zrou meatballs. “We want to work 合作。而且，我们也想和那些本来就不是以植物 alongside chefs like Jereme, who are passionate,” says Laris, 基料理闻名的厨师擦出全新火花，以其他菜式享 “and not those who are purely commercial signings. We also

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Zrou’s team of cocreator chefs works hard to perfect recipes for its customers, providing inspiration to make delicious dishes at home.

Zrou 株肉与合作的名厨团队努 力研发，致力于为顾客开发完 美食谱、提供灵感，让消费者 能在家轻松端出美味料理。

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Zrou’s celebrity chefs (left to right): Anthony Zhao, Lance Yu, Lu Chunfeng, David Laris, Jereme Leung, and Lucky Lasagna Zrou名厨团队(从左至右)： 空哥，余勇浪， 陆春凤， 陆唯， 梁子庚和 Lucky Lasagna

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PRESENTED BY ZROU

Bringing consumers a new and elevated experience in plant-based cuisine, Zrou collaborates with celebrity chefs in launching premade plant-based meals for home or office.

Zrou与名人厨师合作，推出可在家或办公室 享用的便携式植物基即热即烹餐食，为消费 者带来植物基饮食的全新体验。

Li Dong 李冬 Member of Five-Star Master Chefs of China Cuisine Association (CCA); 2019 Chinese Cuisine World Championship. 中国烹饪协会五星总厨委员会会 员、曾荣获2019年度中国烹饪协会 中华金厨奖

Jereme Leung 梁子庚 Pioneer of modern Chinese cuisine; Asia’s Best Chefs; Judge on TV show MasterChef China 亚洲名厨，独具创意的新式 中餐革新者，曾担任东方卫视

Zrou’s Old Beijing Zha Jiang Noodles 株肉老北京风味炸酱面

「顶级厨师」评委

Zhang Hu 张虎

want to collaborate with chefs who are not seen as primarily plant-based, and Jereme, for example, is famous for other things.”

Laris also emphasizes the importance of offering regional cuisine. Beijing native Zhang Hu, a master of Chinese pastry, has created Northern-style buns with shiitake and bean sprouts and Northern-style dumplings with pak choi , rich and savory with intense, traditional Dongbei flavor. For those who enjoy light, fresh Southern flavors, Shanghai pastry master Lu Chunfeng has designed Southern-style dumplings with mixed mushrooms and Southernstyle buns with mixed vegetables.

“Chefs can begin to change people’s mindsets, helping them to think creatively about plant-based meals,” says Laris. “Ours isn’t a product aimed solely at vegans – we try to make it easy for anyone to make the choice to change.

“We want to create a future worth inheriting. I believe many more people will soon be eating less animal protein, gravitating toward the kind of plant-based food that won’t make them feel that they’re missing out. But there’s still a long way to go. We’re part of a growing revolution in the way that humans think about food.”

誉料理界的梁子庚就是很好的 例子。 」 另外，陆唯也认为提供区 域特色料理是非常重要的服务。 来自北京的张虎是中国面点大

Thirty years of Chinese pastry experience; judge of baked products, China Cuisine Association; Chinese Culinary Art Master, China Hotel Association 30年中式面点经验； 中国烹饪协会 中式面点一级评委、中国饭店协会 中国烹饪大师

师，他研发出北方风味香菇豆芽

Lu Chunfeng 陆春凤

包和小白菜水饺，展现层次丰

Thirty years’ experience; China Gourmet Ambassador; Gold Award for baked products, national culinary competition; China Golden Chef Award, China Cuisine Association

富、醇厚可口的传统北方味道。 针对偏好清淡、清新南方口味 的消费者，上海面点大师陆春 凤则推出南方风味菌菇水饺和 蔬菜包。 陆唯透露 ： 「厨师可以开始 改变大家的思维，协助消费者 以具创意的方式来看待植物基 饮食。我们的产品不只针对素 食者，而是希望让所有人更容 易地作出改变。 」 「我们希望创造一个值得为 下一代继承的未来。我相信，很 快会有更多消费者减少动物性 蛋白的摄取量，并去享用那些 同样美味的植物基食品，但我 们还有一段很长的路要走。人 类看待、思考食物的方式已逐 渐掀起改革，而我们就是这波 改革浪潮的一分子。 」

30年的厨师经验，荣获「中国美食 大使」、曾荣获全国烹饪大赛点心 类金奖、中国烹饪协会中华金厨奖

Anthony Zhao 空哥 Well-known Douyin blogger; proficient in Chinese and Western cuisine, worked in renowned restaurants including The Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai; culinary show appearances, including BBC, National Geographic 知名抖音博主；中西厨艺精通的国 际主厨，曾任职于多间知名餐厅， 包括上海波特曼丽思卡尔顿；曾参 与BBC、National Geographic等电 视台的美食节目拍摄

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挪威海洋之星

star-studded seafood From Norway’s cold, clear waters come the spectacular red king crab and other premium shellfish sought after by leading chefs around the globe.

COURTESY OF THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL (3)

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL

从米其林三星的 Maaemo，到令人叹为观止的海底 NORWAY’S ELEVEN Michelin-starred venues, from dramatically 餐厅 Under，挪威现已有十一家米其林星级餐厅， half-submerged Under to three-star Maaemo, are among a grow跻身全球屈指可数的高级餐厅之林，并以各式各样 ing coterie of the world’s top restaurants that showcase Norwegian 创新手法展现挪威海产的与众不同。挪威海产局的 seafood in a range of creative ways. 「越来越多高端餐厅使用挪威虾 Ørjan Olsen 表示 ： “The increasing numbers of Michelin stars awarded to res蟹贝类食材并摘取米其林桂冠，以可持续方法捕获 taurants featuring Norwegian shellfish are testament to the quality 的挪威虾蟹贝类海产的品质与口味受到好评与肯定。 of sustainably harvested produce from Norway,” says Ørjan Olsen 冰冷纯净的海水孕育出挪威虾蟹贝类海产无与伦比 of the Norwegian Seafood Council. “Our cold, clear waters give 的质地和口感，深受名厨青睐。 」 Norwegian shellfish the unique texture and taste adored by these 其中具王者风范的挪威红帝王蟹可谓领衔主 very finest of cooks.” 演。挪威红帝王蟹是全球最大的蟹类之一，体重最 Taking the starring role is the regal-looking Norwegian red king 高可达 8 千克，长度可达 23 厘米。红帝王蟹「蟹如 crab. One of the largest on earth, it can grow to seventeen pounds 其名」 ，形似身披朱红华服的皇冠，以底栖生物和藻 with a shell nine inches long. Like a conquering king, it rules its realm, 类植物为食。活蟹全年皆可捕获，在运送过程中受 devouring all manner of marine life in its path. Caught throughout the 到精心照料，以确保鲜活抵达目的地。由于红帝王 year, it is transported with care to arrive alive and in peak condition 蟹身价高昂，因此几乎只在高级餐厅供应。 at destinations worldwide. And because of its kingly price tag, it is 红帝王蟹被誉为奢华珍馐绝对当之无愧。其肉 enjoyed almost exclusively at the world’s top-tier restaurants. 质细嫩鲜甜，风味极佳，令人回味无穷。蟹腿、蟹 This crustacean is a truly sumptuous delicacy, exquisitely sweet 钳、尾部的肉肥厚多汁，冷食即美味无比，炒、烘、 and succulent. The rich meat of its legs, claws, and tail is perfectly 烤亦相宜，若以蒜味黄油或香料调味，亦能带出蟹 served cold and can be prepared in a variety of ways, including 的鲜美。也有老饕偏爱天然味道，仅简单煮蒸，搭 stir-frying, baking, and grilling. It is often teamed with garlic butter 配清爽沙拉与柠檬片，享受最原始的纯粹。 or flavored with herbs and spices, but purists may prefer it simply 在挪威冰冷纯净海域中生长的还有由渔民以潜 boiled or steamed and accompanied by a salad and wedge of 水方式徒手捕捞的挪威大扇贝，到达餐厅时仍然鲜 lemon. 活，因而能以千变万化的滋味在舌尖上化开，生食、 Also among the bounty of Norwegian seafood is the 清蒸各有风味。鲜活的挪威海螯虾肉质特別紧实， Norwegian king scallop. Hand-harvested by divers, they melt on the 颜色雪白，味道清甜，经炙烤、清蒸、香煎或与其 tongue in a cascade of flavors. And the white, sweet, mild meat of 他贝类混合，都能成为令人垂涎三尺的佳肴。鲜美 Norway lobster, or langoustine, is delicious grilled, steamed, pan的挪威蓝贻贝仅以简单方法烹调，便可以品尝到海 fried, or mixed with other shellfish. 洋鲜味，经常作为意大利面、西班牙海鲜炖饭和法 Delectable Norwegian blue mussels are easy to prepare and 国马赛鱼汤的食材。挪威北极甜虾生活在 ideal in pasta dishes, paella, or bouillabaisse. And the red The cold, clear waters 挪威海岸与峡湾冰冷海水，红白相间的虾 and white flesh of sweet cold-water prawns that thrive give Norwegian 体秀色可餐，口感就跟外表一样诱人。 in frigid Norwegian fjords is just as tasty as it looks. shellfish their unique 挪威严苛的法规确保了挪威虾蟹贝 Chefs and diners around the world not only savor texture and taste. 类的可持续捕捞，使得全球各地热衷这 the ocean-freshness of Norwegian seafood but also 冰冷纯净的海水孕育出 一顶级食材的大厨和饕客们全年都能享 know that the country’s stringent fishing regulations 挪威虾蟹贝类海产无与 用这珍馐美味。 ensure that it is always harvested sustainably. 伦比的质地和口感。 a taste of home

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独一无二的微笑

one singular sensation Champagne Salon overcomes a mercurial Mother Nature to release its stellar 2012 vintage.

坚持四大「单一」原则的沙龙香槟，向来有别于 STANDING ALONE in its singularity, Champagne Salon has always 其他声名赫赫的顶级香槟大厂。由 Eugène-Aimé set itself apart from the prestige cuvées of other luxury Champagne Salon 独自创建的沙龙香槟，仅使用来自单一产 houses. It was founded by a single man, Eugène-Aimé Salon, and its 区白丘、单一特级庄园勒梅尼勒叙罗热的单一葡 grapes, from a single subregion, Côte des Blancs, and a single Grand 萄品种霞多丽，而且必定只生产单一 Cru village, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, are of a single variety, charBY 年份的香槟。 donnay, and always from a single vintage.

MAMIE CHEN 酿制完成后，只有品质最优异 And then only the best of its vintages – an average of 的年份香槟才会释出上市，成为沙龙 three to four per decade – are released to produce a single ，平均每十年仅生产三至 香槟唯一特选佳酿「S」 Champagne, cuvée “S.” With its primary fermentation in stainless steel, 四个年份。沙龙最名闻遐迩的白中白（blanc de no malolactic fermentation, and low dosage, Salon’s renowned blanc de blancs）香槟仅在不锈钢桶经过初级发酵，不采 blancs cuvée sparkles with crisp vibrancy and scintillating fruit character.

Just forty-three vintages have met Salon’s exacting standards

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用乳酸发酵，糖份低，造就出熠熠生辉、光彩夺

CHAMPAGNE

Salon 2012: The Smile

LEIF CARLSSON FOR CHAMPAGNE SALON (2)

沙龙2012年份 香槟：微笑之酒

since the founding of the Champagne house in the early twentieth century. And even among these rare jewels, the 2012 vintage is a special one. Cellar master Michel Fauconnet has made early comparisons to the legendary 2002 vintage that many consider to be among Salon’s greatest.

Such a positive outlook wasn’t always a given, however. The weather in 2012 had been notoriously bad in the Champagne wine region. Temperatures dropped as low as -20°C in February, and a glimmer of spring hope was thoroughly doused by thunder and hail storms, only to be followed by a late summer both too hot and too dry. But then in September, something good finally happened when ideal conditions reigned during the harvest. While the yield of grapes was low, the quality was high. But considering the entire growing and harvest seasons, Salon president Didier Depond began warning that their post-2008 vintage gap was likely to extend through 2012.

Although Depond and Fauconnet started their vin clair tastings with reservations, after the first round, their interest was piqued, and after the second, they glanced at each other and smiled.

With good reason this vintage has been tagged “Salon 2012: The Smile.” The smile of surprise, the smile of anticipation, the smile of indulgence.

目的酒体，酸度脆爽活泼，散发清晰果香。沙龙香 槟自二十世纪初成立至今，仅 43 款年份香槟完全达 到上市标准，而在这万中选一的凤毛麟角中，2012 年份香槟尤其特殊，酒窖大师 Michel Fauconnet 甚 至认为此款香槟足以与公认为不朽传奇的沙龙 2002 年份香槟媲美。 然而如此大好前景并非得天独厚。2012 年香 槟产区气候恶劣众所皆知，二月凛冽，气温低至

-20°C。原本期盼春暖花开的一丝曙光，却被雷雨和 霜冻给浇熄殆尽。夏季来得太晚，又过分炎热干燥， 直到九月才终于出现转机，收成期间条件都很理 想。当年尽管葡萄产量少，品质却极高，但考虑到 整个成长与收成的季节状况，沙龙香槟总裁 Didier

Depond 仍先对外预警，2008 年后的年份香槟短缺 时间恐将延长至 2012 年。

Didier 和 Michel 品尝基酒之初持保留的态度， 但第一轮结束，他们的好奇心已被勾起。第二轮结 束时，他们望向对方，相视而笑。 因为如此，此款年份香槟被命名为「沙龙 2012 年份香槟 ：微笑之酒」── 因惊喜而微笑，因期待 而微笑，因畅怀而微笑。 a taste of home

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PRESENTED BY CLASSIC FINE FOODS

烹羊夺冠且为乐

winning lamb Simon Liem Ho takes top honors at the Classic Fine Foods X Coastal Lamb Chef Competition 2021.

Simon Liem Ho

在比赛现场，专家评审团正看着专业厨师埋头忙碌。一个巨大 THE ROOM ABUZZ with professional chefs as a panel of expert judges 的时钟正倒数着时间，专注的参赛者正运用神秘食材箱里的食 looks on. A giant clock counting down the time. Focused contestants creating 材即兴创作料理。 on-the-fly dishes from a mystery box of ingredients. 如 此 精 彩 的 一 幕 发 生 在 去 年 十 月 底 的 2021 年 Coastal Such was the exciting scene in late October at the Coastal Lamb Chef Lamb 厨师比赛。本次比赛由 Classic Fine Foods 举办，并由 Competition 2021, organized by Classic Fine Foods (CFF HK) in partnership with New Zealand Coastal Lamb. Held at Hong Kong’s International Culinary New Zealand Coastal Lamb 赞助，于香港国际厨艺学院举办， 对于 22 年来持续供应来自全球各地的最佳食材、 Institute (ICI), the event was a natural fit for CFF, which has been 以支持本地餐饮事业的优质食品供应商 Classic Fine BY supporting the local culinary industry by supplying the very best VICKI WILLIAMS Foods 而言，确是恰如其分。 ingredients from around the world for twenty-two years. 在西餐和亚洲料理这两轮竞赛环节中，New The star of each of the competition’s two rounds, one calling Zealand Coastal Lamb 赞 助 的 羊 品 都 无 疑 是 焦 点 明 星。 由 for a Western dish and the other for an Asian, was New Zealand Coastal Lamb.

Available through CFF, this award-winning premium product is naturally farmraised along the coast, where salt-laden winds continually dust the herb-filled pastures the lambs graze on. This gives Coastal Lamb its salt-kissed, uniquely mild and clean taste and its delicate, succulent texture.

Holding the competition at ICI, with its professional kitchen setup and commitment to the culinary arts, provided the ideal setting and also gave some final-year students a meaningful opportunity as each was randomly

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Classic Fine Foods 引进的这份获奖顶级食材，在海岸自然牧场 养殖，带有盐分的海风吹拂着牧场的草地，使羊肉拥有纯净温 和的天然盐味及细致多汁的口感。 拥有专业厨房设备并致力于餐饮艺术的国际厨艺学院， 除了为举办这场比赛提供理想的场地，也让一众高年级学生与 参赛厨师随机配对，全程担任助理，为他们提供了意义非凡的 实践机会。

COURTESY OF CLASSIC FINE FOODS (2)

paired with a competing chef to act as assistant throughout.

Awarded top prize was Simon Liem Ho, chef de partie of Aberdeen Marina Club, who won an exclusive video shoot of one of his winning dishes and an HKD10,000 voucher from CFF. “I’m honored,” he says. “The biggest challenges were the mystery box and the sixty minutes allowed. The easiest part was highlighting a great product like Coastal Lamb.”

The dish Lamb Saddle Two Ways won for its appealing flavor profile, inspired use of ingredients, and creative presentation.

And the competition proved to be a winning situation for everyone as organizers, participants, and judges met, mingled, and exchanged ideas.

夺得冠军的是深湾游艇俱 乐部的厨师 Simon Liem Ho。作 为奖品，大会将为他的获奖佳肴 拍摄专属影片，还送出价值港币 一 万 元 的 Classic Fine Foods 现 金券。 他表示 ： 「我十分荣幸能够 获奖。神秘食材和限时六十分钟 是最大的挑战，但要突显 New

Zealand Coastal Lamb 这么优质 的食材却是最容易掌握的。 」

Simon 的 获 奖 作 品「 羊 鞍 两 味 」 以 其 突 出 的 风 味、 对 食 材的灵活运用和具创意的摆盘 取 胜。 这 次 比 赛 也 为 参 赛 者 及 评委等各个单位提供了现场见

L A M B S A D D L E T WO WAY S 羊鞍两味

To prepare his winning Asian dish, Simon starts by briefly pan-searing the loin cut of lamb on all sides.

It is seasoned with masala powder, rolled in plastic wrap, and chilled. A spicy Asian dressing, made with a mortar and pestle, includes ginger, lime juice, chili, and lemon grass. Blanched julienned pumpkin and cooked vermicelli noodles are combined and tossed with the dressing. The chilled lamb is thinly sliced and plated with the noodles and pumpkin and garnished with sautéed dice of lamb and edible blossoms.

Simon 先将羊鞍香煎，以印度香料粉调味后冷藏。他 再石磨姜、青柠汁、红椒、香茅等调料，制成亚洲风 味酱汁。南瓜丝和米线用沸水淖过后，与亚洲风味酱

面 和 交 流 的 机 会， 让 所 有 人 都

汁混合。最后将经冷藏的羊鞍切成薄片，旁边放上米

满载而归。

线，再以炒过的羊肉粒和可食用花朵装盘。 a taste of home

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CHINA RESTAURANT INTERIOR DESIGN AWARDS

C R I D A

中国餐饮 空间设计 奖 2022

29 MARCH, 2022 Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC), Hall N5 | 上海新国际博览中心N5馆

Photographied at Chateau de Malmaison Photographied at Chateau de Malmaison chateau-malmaison.fr chateau-malmaison.fr

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