AUGUST 2020

ISSN NO: 2278-8972 | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 86 VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 8 |₹ 100 | PAGES 60 www.textilevaluechain.in June 2020

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CONTENT August 2020 COVER STORY 8 Speciality Finishes: The Shield of Protection 11 Anti-Viral Clothing: A Possibility?

13 Anti-microbial Finish- An Overview 15 Water-Repellent Finish 17 Aromatic Finishes 20 Application of Nanotechnology in anti-microbial textiles 22 Anti-Viral Finishes 25 Eco-Friendly Super absorbant anti-Microbial Finish 28 UV Protective Finish on Textiles 33 Adapting to The New Reality

TEXTILE FIBRES 35 Clothing From Mesta Fibre 38 Application of Coir Fibre Reinforced Green Composite 42 Dark Light Bed Canopy Curtains

ISSN NO: 2278-8972 | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 8 |₹ 100 | PAGES 60

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Creative Designer Ms. Ayman Satopay

CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE 49 Microwavable heating Pad with Fenugreek seeds and rice grain filling

Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan

FASHION MANAGEMENT 53 A Roadmap to Boutique Management

BRAND UPDATE 56 With U.S Cotton Protocol, Brands and Retailers can now source U.S Cotton with more confidence

ADVERTISER INDEX 2 Rimtex 3 Cotton USA 4 SRTEPC 5 LRT 58 Textile Apparel Jobs 59 Trützschler 60 Raymond

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All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

EDITORIAL

7

PEOPLE, PRODUCT, PRICE OR PLACE? WHAT’S PRIORITY?

“

The reasonable man adapts himself to the world. The unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself.

Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man George Bernard Shaw --

”

There are two trends going on in the industry , MSME or start ups giving birth to new entrepreneurs in the country. On the other end, Corporates are trying to survive by new product development and cutting HR plus marketing cost. Today every industry and company facing two major issues whether to invest in infrastructure, people or product . As product development requires research, and investment ; employees with multi tasking ability, will have competition advantage.

India is the country of self reliant entrepreneurs. New MSME will enter in the field of service, technology, fabric or garment manufacturing as it has less entry barrier with minimum capital cost. Birth of start-up, good idea does not work without proper sales and marketing support. Indian textile and apparel industry from last several years have been asking for benefits for marketing support for domestic and exporter , but till now, few export support initiated for focus market. Will the Government be ready to share these additional incentives, its vicious cycle !!!

This pandemic has given rise to more awareness and birth of new Specialised finishes, with special high- end technology which current Corporates are invesing in. This issue we are focusing on special finishes on fabrics which is anti viral, microbial and many more. We need to think whether the consumer will pay that extra for anti-viral or anti-microbial finish out of fear or out of need ? Time will say, it’s like the sustainability concept , we know it’s important for our planet but how many have accepted and are following ?

Wish you happy festive season .. stay safe , take care !

MS. JIGNA SHAH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

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COVER STORY

Mr. AVINASH MAYEKAR MD AND CEO, SUVIN ADVISORS PVT LTD

SPECIALTY FINISHES: THE SHIELD OF PROTECTION

ABSTRACT There is a balance to be maintained between the processing of textiles & their impact on the environment. Introducing a finish to overcome one adversity should not lead to another adversity of the future. More & more innovations on the organic aspect is need of the hour. Promoting greener finishes & an overall appeal on the affordability will be the key driving factor for the growth of this sector. There is no doubt that adding finishes & improving the quality parameter will not be a costly affair. So here is where the measures of cost-cutting like bulk productions will come into play to make the finished product in the affordability range. It requires working together from all the segments of the value chain.

Textile finishes have overcome all deficiencies of fibres, fabrics and manufacturing processes and can apply even on garments to cut short the limitations. The world is changing towards green environment and so is our own finishing industry keeping pace with the environment!!!

C

lothing has gone beyond our conventional protection, it is a fashion, it is a functional aspect, it is a brand promotion, it is weather sensitive, it is combination of various fibres – natural & synthetics, it can be collaboration of all physical as well as chemical properties, and even nowadays beauty of chemical technology is that all of such properties can be imparted to give more meaning to life of human beings.

Years have passed since when the basic necessity of clothing is been restricted only to protection from the climatic changes. The aesthetic appeal of garments has seen a tremendous demand thereby giving the best of the fashion with comfort for the skin garments. The pandemic, however, has opened up a new dimension to this basic protection feature of the garments it is because today the term protection is | AUGUST 2020

not only restricted to the climatic phenomenon but the viruses which were present for years in the atmosphere have suddenly entered the super important zone owing to rise of “COVID19”.

To enhance clothing properties & build in the efficiency factor various finishes have been surfaced on the clothing but all were limited to a certain specialty clothing series. For eg. the heat retardant finishes to workwear, the perspiration finishes for breathability to the sportswear, etc. It is now that the finishes will start gaining their importance as the first line of defense acting as Shield armor against the invisible viruses. The importance of health & hygiene will act as a catalyst to boost the use of more advanced finishes on the majority of consumer-driven textiles from basic clothing to the home textiles & textiles in direct contact of humans.

COVER STORY Let us explore the various finishes already introduced & the impact of the current situation on them: 1. Anti-Viral Finish: This finish reduces the viral activity morphologically.

The name itself is enough for creating a wave of interest in people for clothes with such finishes. Currently, it is having a prime time market on various face shields in the market.

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future trend for this finish, they are ecofriendly & cost-effective with efficient bactericidal properties & low toxicity.

3. Water and Oil repellents These are chemical finish. Resist the penetration of water into the fabric while allowing moisture or air passage. This finish is used in PPE, Tarpaulins, driver suits, umbrellas, swimming suits & Raincoats. Its use in PPE is more than sufficient to understand the demand for this finish.

The waterproof finish is slightly different from repellants. It forms a film on the surface of the fabric which prevents the permeability of water as well as air.

Figure 1Visual representation, source internet

In April 2020 NICCA has confirmed the antiviral effect of the textiles processed with the antibacterial agent “NICCANON”. ). The fabric treated with “NICCANON” succeeded in reducing the number of viruses on the fabric for the same envelope type influenza virus as a coronavirus (COVID-19). A success breakthrough will see the majority of consumer-driven textiles implementing these finishes on garments, drapes & curtains, bedcovers filters, mops, etc.

Melbourne, Australia based HealthGuard Corporation claims that its HealthGuard AMIC/PLB anti-viral textile finish has been independently tested to be 99.9% effective against killing spores of Corona Virus (H1N1), SARS and Influenza Virus when applied correctly to fibers and fabrics

Figure 2: Oil repellant textile

4. Insect Repellent: This is the basic type of finish that will be especially looked out for in kid’s garments as the pandemic has surely created fear for “Fever & Flu”. So the parents will take all the efforts to keep away their kids from the mosquitoes. Post pandemic they will not be able to keep their kids away from the playground but clothes with the promising finish of mosquito repellent within pocket cost will surely be the one they would invest in.

Other finishes like cool finish-moisture management, soil repellent finishes will also be encouraged to be used in kid’s wear & sportswear.

Indian Companies such as Donear Industries, Welspun India Ltd, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, Vardhman Textiles, and D’ Decor, among others, have launched anti-viral fabrics for apparel and home furnishing products, in partnership with international textile technology players. And they don’t come cheap; they are priced about 15-20 percent higher than the average products. (Source-the Hindu business line)

2. Health Medical – Unconventional antimicrobials Will ensure that microbial adoption is not occurring on finished textiles. The surfaces treated with this finish becomes inhibitory for the development of microbial reservoirs. Green silver particles are the

Figure 3Source Internet, kids playing

5. Anti-allergic finish This finish can be extracted from natural products having medicinal properties like Medicinal trees.

Barks, stem, leaf, root & fruits are extracted for their | AUGUST2020

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COVER STORY

medicinal properties thereby making this finishes to be skin-friendly. These finishes will be looked out for kids wear as well as for textile products used by the beauty-conscious population. The trends for clear & youth skin will drive the sector with the help of finishes like •

Aloe Vera Finish This finish restores the natural balance of body & skin by acting as a moisturizer & a pain soother.

• Vitamin E Finish It helps to hide visible aging signs, hydrates & moisturizes the skin. It also reduces sun damage along with the reduction in the appearance of scars.

6. Antifungal finish Lockdown has affected almost everything. The object in complete lockdown are our highly fashionable clothes, office wears & party wears. All lying ideal in our wardrobes with many other unused clothes.

Monsoons moisture & clothes in the wardrobe will lead to a catastrophic effect of fungal growth if not maintained properly. Thereby creating awareness for an antifungal finish on garments preventing microbe’s growth & the foul odor that garments catch on by just lying around.

Health & Fitness are now going to see a more rapid pace of development. The unlock phase itself has seen the flooding of fitness enthusiasts in the common public places. The fragrance & special finishes on Gym- wears will ensure built in deodorizing technique providing a natural fragrance built-in garments extracted from essential oils -Flowers, Fruits, Essences with Aromatherapy Blends like Lavender, Alpine, etc.

8. Thermal Insulator Finishes Special nanodispersions in binder produce heat-retaining effect leading to infrared radiation owing to its porosity. It also has a deodorant effect against basic gases like ammonia and trim ethyl amine. Heavy Industry work wears have these finishes. The stringent rules & regulations for productions post COVID19 will see a preferential demand for this product.

Figure 5 Firefighter work suit (source: internet)

9. Antistatic

7. Fragrance & Special Finishes

Carpets & synthetic textiles in office spaces & rooms with electronic devices i.e. covering all possible common areas today are prone to generate a static charge and in worst scenario lead to electric shocks.

It also causes fabrics to “cling”, when two layers of clothing rub together, causing discomfort & attracts dust and lint. This is why antistatic finishes are most commonly used on home & kitchen textiles.

Figure 4: Fitness Enthusiast source internet

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| AUGUST 2020

COVER STORY

Ms. PRACHI GHELOT

11

ANTI-VIRAL CLOTHING : A POSSIBILITY?

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Manufacturers such as Vardhman Textiles, Welspun India Ltd, Donear Industries, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, and D’ Decor, and many more have marketed and launched anti-viral textiles for clothing and home furnishing uses, in partnership with international high tech (in Textiles)players, like HeiQ. HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 is one of the absolute first textile advancements on the planet to be demonstrated 99.99% viable against SARS-CoV-2 in the research facility.

HeiQ has listed its end-use as Medical textiles for protection, for example, utilized for face masks, air filters, clinical outfits, blinds, drapes; apparel, upholstery, sleeping cushions, mattresses, etc.

A

s the nation wrestles with the Covid-19 pandemic, anti-viral textiles appears to have become the trendy expression in the business. Players state ant-viral textiles and fabrics battle the spread and transmission of infections through different materials embedded or coated on the fabric proving their findings with various tests performed.

Manufacturers such as Vardhman Textiles, Welspun India Ltd, Donear Industries, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, and D’ Decor, and many more have marketed and launched anti-viral textiles for clothing and home furnishing uses, in partnership with international high tech (in Textiles)players, like HeiQ. HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 is one of the absolute first textile advancements on the planet to be demonstrated 99.99% viable against SARS-CoV-2 in the research facility. SARS-CoV-2 is a virus from the coronavirus

family that causes COVID-19. Tests have been led

by HeiQ with the Peter Doherty Institute for Infection and Immunity in Melbourne, Australia (Doherty Institute). HeiQ Viroblock is designed to inhibit the growth and persistence of bacteria and enveloped viruses on textile surfaces. The technology used is a combination of HeiQ’s registered silver technology and Vesicle technology. The silver infused technology pulls in the oppositely charged infectious viruses and makes a permanent bond with the viruses’ sulphur chain groups. Hence, the fatty spherical vesicle technology (Liposomes) assists with exhausting the viral layer of its cholesterol content in minutes, hence enabling the silver to pulverize the infection quickly.

Similar to all finishes, the antiviral finish also varies in effectiveness according to the concentration that is applied. The inclination is as following: 10% for | AUGUST2020

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COVER STORY

Maximum performance, used for basic applications like face covers and dispensable clinical nonwovens; 8.5% for strong performance, 7% good performance, for less critical applications, for example, everyday pieces of clothing and home textiles.

HeiQ tested this technology for Residual virus by an adjusted ISO 20743 technique (Sendai virus), fast antiviral impact was exhibited within 2-5 minutes to exposure. The Antiviral technology was also tested following ISO 18184 as solid antiviral and ISO 20743 as solid antibacterial against encompassed viruses and bacteria. The technology is certified as safe and sustainable as all of its constituents are cosmetic grade, bio-based (72% bio-based carbon) and reused. The fabric lasts for 30 delicate home-washes at 60°C (140°F) and lasts up to 5 dry cleans on a wool fabric treated with Viroblock technology. The patent is pending for antiviral and antibacterial innovation.

HeiQ has listed its end-use as Medical textiles for protection, for example, utilized for face masks, air filters, clinical outfits, blinds, drapes; apparel, upholstery, sleeping cushions, mattresses, etc. The technology can be used for all fibre types, especially non-wovens.

Arvind Ltd., a textile to-retail conglomerate, has gone into a specialized joint effort with Swiss textile pioneer HeiQ Materials AG and Taiwanese Jintex Corporation to present antiviral Viroblock textile innovation for the very first time in India under its sub -brand Intellifabrix. A shirt made with this innovation would cost about ₹2,500 ,while the open fabrics will be estimated somewhere in the range of ₹600 and ₹1,000 per meter.

Donear Industries, which has collaborated with Swiss organization HeiQ to introduce the Neo-Tech anti viral textiles, which includes suiting and worsted textures. It is selling these items in the B2C segment, just as providing them to B2B clients.

Other worldwide textile organizations, for example, HealthGuard Corporation, have additionally collaborated with Indian players for anti-viral fabrics with claims dependent on international test standards.

Despite development in organizations selling fabric resistant to bacteria, viruses and fungi, there are no guidelines yet for such things from the ministries of Health or Textiles. There is no standard item for the use of anti-viral or anti-microbial fabrics. Different producers have their variants dependent on their advertising activities or client prerequisites.Authorities said that while anti-microbial textiles could slow the development of microorganisms somewhat, they

| AUGUST 2020

would not offer any guarantee against the Covid-19 infection, as such material won’t have the option to stop its infiltration through the fabric to the body, particularly at the seams. On the off chance that the textile can’t stop penetration of the infection, at that point, it isn’t extremely useful against Covid-19. The World Health Organization likewise doesn’t recognize any such textile fabric or technology.

Industry players said that innovation for hostile to viral or against microbial materials existed even before the Covid-19 pandemic and was being utilized to a great extent by doctors and health care workers.

But the medical industry uses coveralls. A body coverall requires a textile with strong anti-viral properties, its seams are fixed and sealed so the likelihood of microbe entrance from needle punch zone lessens and there is no free opening at any point in the coverall through and through. Be that as it may, that is not the situation with common clothing apparel products. A typical piece of clothing clearly won’t be made like a coverall. It will have openings and air permeability(large pore size to allow breathability and comfort). COVID-19 virus is 120 nanometres, so it is critical to quantify pore size of the material which is labelled as anti-viral. The pore size ought to be under 120 nanometres, so the virus does not infiltrate the textile layer or seams. When it comes to maximum efficiency of anti-viral properties in apparel, fabric finish should be upheld strongly with sewing threads which are also treated with the anti-viral technology.

COVID-19 has placed the shoppers in a dim circumstance of what to pick, customers would prefer not to face any challenge in regards to their wellbeing and security. The consumer will rush to buy the newly launched Anti-viral clothing without realizing that none of it has been demonstrated 100% successful against the COVID-19. For all brands and retailers of apparel who want to innovate anti-viral fabrics tried and tested against SARS-CoV-2 need to comprehend the significance and vulnerability of this procedure and the impediments of what they are going to guarantee.

References ps://heiq.com/technologies/heiq-viroblock/ https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/economy/policy/rise-in-anti-viral-fabric-launches-in-india-but-health-textile-ministries-have-no-guidelines-for-such-products/article32038446.ece https://in.apparelresources.com/technology-news/manufacturing-tech/ anti-viral-fabrics-in-garments-marketing-gimmick-or-reality/

COVER STORY

Ms. RUTU KANADE

13

ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH OVERVIEW

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Degradation of the fiber and textile has become very common issue which happens due to microbial attack on the surface of the textiles. The microbes eat up the cellulosic part and make the textile weak and also few microbes leave stain on the textile. Antimicrobial finish helps to overcome this problem and act as a protective layer for the textile substrate. As consumers are slowly getting more concerned about health and hygiene factors, they should also be aware about what are the possible products available in the market. This review article will briefly cover, review of the Antimicrobial finish for the textile material, with introduction to the finish, agents used for the finish, mechanism of the finish, process, testing methods used, health and environmental issues and uses of antimicrobial finish.

T

extile are an integral part of the human’s life.

Immediately after birth till the death, from waking up to going back to bed at night, humans make use of textiles. Textiles are used for both aesthetics as well as for functional purpose. Many recent developments have been done in the field of functional textiles which includes many specialty finishes – Antimicrobial finish being one of it. Personal hygiene and cleanliness have also become a vital part today and slowly the awareness is increasing.

Textiles when placed in a damp environment are susceptible to microbial growth. Textiles are a good media for the micro-organisms growth and are also a good carrier of microbes. Microbes deteriorate the fabric by eating up the cellulosic component of the fabric and make it weak which in turn hinders the overall performance of the fabric. Microbes also cause stains on the fabric and they not only destroy the fabric but also affect human skin and body to

a great extent. Inner garments, socks or even area near armpit, where there are higher chances for growth of microorganism can lead to staining of the fabric, degradation of the textile, microbial growth, infection and spread of disease. Development of antimicrobial finish for textiles have addressed this issue. Growth of microbes on textiles is prevented by application of the anti-microbial finish. Although there are many records in history, where there is use of natural antimicrobial agents for preservation of textiles. Recent development in the technical textiles and antimicrobial finish have proven beneficial which are also commercially viable.

Agents used in finishing: There have been many developments in the finishing process and the agents used. Basically, a finishing agent aids to impart properties, which a textile lacks for. Finishing agents differs as per the type of | AUGUST2020

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COVER STORY

fiber, end use and other chemical substrates.

Standard antimicrobial test includes:

Antimicrobial agents used include some organic agents like silicon based quaternary agent and quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs), N-Halamines; inorganic salts, triclosan, polyhexamethylenebiguanide (PHMB), iodophors, Halogenated phenols, thiophenols, heterocyclic, nitro compound, urea, amines and derivatives of formaldehyde. Inorganic agents include silver and gold, metal oxides, copper and zinc, titanium, magnesium. (Nadeem Afraz, 2019)

Health and environmental issues

Polybiguanides remain chemically bonded to the fiber surface and do not leach out, they act as barrier against microbes which come in contact with the textile. While the Halogenated phenols form a weak bond with the fiber and there by the halogenated phenols leaches out. (Naveed, 2018)

Due to increasing health concerns with chemical antimicrobial finishes, there are few studies associated with natural antimicrobial finishes on textile with certain modification of the natural substance. Chitosan and activated charcoal are among the natural antimicrobial substance.

Mechanism of the finish

Among antimicrobials few works on the leaching mechanism, when applied on the textile surface they tend to move and thereby they can get transferred on the skin and can lead to skin rashes and irritation.

(Uddin, 2014)

Finishing mechanisms are used based on the antimicrobial function performed by the particular finish on the textile: 1. Control release: The antimicrobial finish is applied to the textile and is released during specific time in controlled manner when in use. Whenever the textiles are washed off the antimicrobial substance are removed and this is effective when there are microbes around the textile surface.

2. Regeneration: Here the application of the finish produces active germ-killing substance which are regenerated during washing by addition of bleaching substances. The regeneration occurs when the fibers chemically modified covalent bonds are broken.

3. Barrier block: In barrier block a layer of coating is applied which restrict the passage of microorganism into the fabric. (Akca, 2020) Process of finishing The antimicrobial finish can be applied to the textile material by following methods 1. Exhaust 2. Pad-dry-cure 3. Coating 4. Spray and foam 5. During fiber spinning Testing methods Textiles are in close touch to human body and thereby must undergo standard testing procedure. | AUGUST 2020

1. AATCC 100-2004 Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials 2. AATCC-100-1998 (USA) -Testing of antimicrobial efficacy of fabrics, Quantitative broth dilution test.

3. AATCC- 147-1998 (USA): Qualitative- Agar diffusion test. (Krishnaveni, 2013)

End Uses Antimicrobial finished textiles have multiple end use, it is used on textiles to control spread of any harmful disease, to reduce odor due to perspiration and stain, to protect textiles from being attacked by microbes. It is also applied on uniforms, tents, defense textiles, geotextiles. Lately the finish is applied on home textiles, such as towels, curtains, bed linen, bath mats, outdoor, healthcare textile products, sports and leisure wear- sports bra, sports socks, gloves, caps, clothing and footwear industry – socks, undergarments. The finish is also applied on nonwoven that are used in medical sector - masks, sanitary materials, baby diapers, wipes, dressing materials, surgical threads, special materials for food and pharmaceuticals, automotive industry. (Aswini, 2007) References (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/61/antimicrobial-finishing-methodologies Akca, C. (2020, March). Intechopen. Retrieved from https://www.intechopen. com/online-first/the-waste-problem-of-antimicrobial-finishing Nadeem Afraz, F. U. (2019, February). https://juniperpublishers.com/ctftte/pdf/ CTFTTE.MS.ID.555646.pdf. Retrieved from https://juniperpublishers. com/ctftte/pdf/CTFTTE.MS.ID.555646.pdf Naveed, M. (2018). Performance on Antibacterial Finishes for Textile Applications. Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 226-233.

Uddin, F. (2014). Environmental concerns in Antimicrobial Finishing of textiles.

Internantional journal of textile science, 15-20.

COVER STORY

Ms. SABA SHAIKH INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

15

WATER REPELLENT FINISH

ABSTRACT Fluorocarbon (FC) gives fiber surfaces the smallest amount surface energies of the repellents finishes in use.

Even though perfluorocarbon are successful in providing water repellent properties, its products are in the negative list of environmental associations because to their toxic properties.

Finishing procedures that are formed on nanostructured surface roughness will be of extreme importance to give both fluorine-free repellent finishes and also durability in the mean of self-healing properties.

W

ater Repellent is finish that is used on the fabric by adding is a Repellent processing agent that covers the surface of fiber by nanoparticle compound and provides the fabric good water repellency. This process also gives washing durability.

• Mechanism of the process:-

The benefit of this finishing is that it can contain the authentic hand of fabric itself by not losing air permeability as it is not coating finish covering the fabric fully along with thick resins.

• These are the final goods of Water repellent Finish:

https://nctexchem.com/product/process/finishing/ waterrepellent/

Suit, Umbrella, Surgical gown, Outdoor garments, Carpet, Automotive engine filter, Cardboard, Coat, etc...

To increass the water repellency and durability, the important point is the way water repellent is regularly bonded to the fiber at the molecular level and stabilized on the fiber surface.

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In order to achieve that, these are important: To produce compounds (polymers) structure so that molecular chains are organized well.

Set up a process for evenly and durably joining it with the developed compound to the surface of the fibre.

By infusing the fabric with a water repellent and then heat treating it at extreme temperature, the water repellent nanoparticles attaches to every single fiber.

This is ìmportant for optimal repellency. Washing and cleanup disturb this orientation and decreases finish performance. The orientation must be caused by the latest heat treatments (ironing; pressing, or tumble drying) reckoning on the type of blocking groups, the isocyanine is activated at different temperatures; so it reacts with the functional groups of the FC, the fiber or with itself (cross linking). This attachment on the fiber surface gives durability to washing, cleaning and rubbing as next necessary effect.

Low curing FCs are new development. They get repellency without heat, only after drying at temperature. An evitable disadvantage is their low durability due to the shortage of fixation by cross linking. It saves cost and energy.

• Water Repellency Testing Standard temperature: – relative humidity - 65% and 20oC Tester name: Spray tester Sample size: 50 cm circumference.

https://nctexchem.com/product/process/finishing/ waterrepellent/ As the whole fabric is not coated, the fabric stays breathable and repels water.

• FLUOROCARBON BASED REPELLENTS Fluorocarbon (FC) gives fiber surfaces the smallest amount surface energies of the repellents finishes in use. FC repellents are mixed by including perfluoro alkyl groups into acrylic or urethane monomers that can be then polymerized due to which fabric finishes made. Application of the end polymer, when will be done on the fiber, which will form fabric that presents a opaque CF3 external surface for high repellency.

The stretch of per fluorinated side chains has to be around 8-10 carbons, the little spacer group, usually ethylene,may be changed to improve the emulsification and solubility of the polymer. Co-monomers (X, Y, for instance stearylorlauryl-methacrylate, butyl acrylateetc) affect.fabric hand, film formationand sturdiness. This way and by appropriate emulsifiers, FC products will be widely modified for several special performance profiles. Most FC products are padded, dried and cured. Heat treatment forms an orientation on the performance side chain nearly crystalline structures.

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• Procedure: The sample fabric is attached on the embroidery hoop and set up on the tester at 45 degrees.

Then with the help of beaker water is added to th funnel with 250 cc.

The water is poured with the help of spray nozzle on the fabric.

After spraying is conpleted the sample holder is taken off and the extra water is also taken off by tapping the frame 6 times against any solid object.

The evalution of the water repellency is done by referring to the spray rating chart.

5 tests are done and the closest rating is allotted to everyone, as no interpolation is permitted, that means a rating for a specimen cannot be 75. The denotion of the 5 ratings is accepted as the final result.

• Conclusion Even though perfluorocarbons are successful in providing water repellent properties, its products are in the negative list of environmental associations because to their toxic properties. That is why, new trends of water-repellent finishes with less side ef-

COVER STORY fects on mankind and nature are higher in demand.

Nanotechnology has introduced worthy achievements and many researches are going to be in focus in the coming years. Finishing procedures that are formed on nanostructured surface roughness will be of extreme importance to give both fluorine-free repellent finishes and also durability in the mean of self-healing properties. Nanoparticles and application methods resulting in water-/oil-repellent properties along with other multifunctionalities such as self-cleaning, antibacterial, flame retardant, and UV

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protection will be also concerned in future.

References:https://nctexchem.com/product/process/finishing/waterrepellent/ https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/08/repellent-finishing-mechanism-of.html?m=1 https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/water-repellency-water-repellent.html?m=1

AROMATIC FINISHES Ms. ARWA KALAWADWALA INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Antimicrobial finish helps to overcome this problem and act as a protective layer for the textile substrate. As consumers are slowly getting more concerned about health and hygiene factors, they should also be aware about what are the possible products available in the market. This review article will briefly cover, review of the Antimicrobial finish for the textile material, with introduction to the finish, agents used for the finish, mechanism of the finish, process, testing methods used, health and environmental issues and uses of antimicrobial finish.

O

ur country has a rich culture of inventing varieties of medicines using herbs to cure various diseases for the welfare of the human community.

In recent years, there is a shift seen their use due to their properties of low toxicity, economic viability and pharmacological activities. The awareness of natural products has increased, as they are not

harmful, are more biodegradable and have multiple health and wellness benefits as compared to the chemical and non-sustainable products. (Cerempei, 2016) Multiple finishes are being applied in the field of textiles on the fabrics for numerous reasons. The aroma | AUGUST2020

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or fragrance is a pleasant smell or odour present in food, spices, oils and essential oils. They are known as ‘aroma compounds’. Fragrances in form of essential oils and aromatic compounds, when applied on textile materials, give the textile a pleasant odour that gives the wearer maximum beneficial effects.

In 1982, the term ‘aromachology’, a study of the relationship between psychology and fragrance technology which bring forth a variety of specific feelings and emotions such as relaxation, happiness and well-being came into existence.

There are many textiles materials that come in contact with microorganisms which cause bad odour, and they don’t remain fresh for long. The aroma finish when applied to these materials add value to the products for use. Aromatic textiles makes the user feel fresh and infuses a feeling of well-being. These textiles are also used in medical and alternative healing fields.(Uzzal, n.d.)

essential oil and water, passed through the padding mangle. Squeezing of the treated sample between two rollers for penetration of the finish which is followed by air drying and curing. The solution only penetrates in the fibre surface.

2. MICROENCAPSULATION: Microencapsulation is defined as a process by which individual particles or droplets of solid or liquid material (the core) are surrounded or coated with a continuous film of polymer material (the shell) to produce capsules.

Process of finishing PREPARATION OF THE RECIPE The fragrance agents with the binder was formed with a solution with alcohol and water ratio (1:3).

The solution is emulsified with a mixer at speed of 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes. The fragrance solution is added to the emulsified solution for 30 minutes and stirred for 2 hours at 400C temperature.

FINISHING PROCESS The finish is applied on the fabric with exhaustion method, where the fabric is kept in the solution for 20-30 minutes with the ML ratio – 1:10 at 400C in water bath. The fabric is then squeezed and dried in the oven for 5 minutes at 1000C and cured at 1200C for 2 minutes. (D. Vasanth Kumar, n.d.)

Testing methods • Washing

(https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-andtreatments/ss/slideshow-essential-oils) Agents used in finishing The agents commonly used for Aroma Finishes include essential oils like lavender, basil, rose, clove, jasmine, etc. which have the aromatic compounds.

They are applied on the fabric with the assistance of Chitosan in microencapsulation method. Similarly, silicone softener is used in padding method of application. The oils are not soluble in water thus, propylene glycol is used to make them soluble in water.

(Avernita Srivastava, n.d.)

Mechanism of the finish The essential oils are oil-based compounds which require a binding agent to link them with the fabric surface. The mechanisms commonly used are paddry-cure method and microencapsulation method.

1. PAD-DRY-CURE METHOD: The fabric piece is dipped into the solution of the | AUGUST 2020

Washing of the aroma treated fabric in domestic washing machine is carried out to find how long lasting the fragrance is on the surface. The durability of the fragrance should last up to 7-8 washes.

• Perspiration Testing the treated fabric with a perspiration treatment between two laundering cycles, simulating a daily wear condition. This gives a proper understanding of the working of the fabrics performance in wash-use-wash conditions. (Snehal, March 2007) • Subjective Evaluation of Aroma Finish The subjective evaluation of the finish is done under the Odour Intensity Referencing Scale (OIRS). Its criteria is as follows: 1. No odour, 2. Very Faint odour, 3. Faint odour,

COVER STORY 4. Distinct odour,

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4. Aromatherapy Textiles - When aroma finish on textiles is used for healing purposes, the textiles is categorized as Aromatherapy Textile. (Priyanka, 2007)

5. Strong odour, 6. Very Strong odour, 7. Extremely Strong odour (Suganthi, 2010) Health and environmental issues 1. Skin The skin is the most sensitive organ of the human body. It is the entry point for many materials into the body. Aroma compounds can be irritants, or allergens and can have many negative effects on the skin.

2. Respiratory Aroma compounds can worsen or induce respiratory problems, triggering asthma, allergies, sinus, and many others caused due to irritants.

Summary The aroma or fragrance is a pleasant smell or odour present in food, spices, oils and essential oils. Fragrances in form of essential oils and aromatic compounds, when applied on textile materials, give birth to aromatic finishes on textile materials. These are used in our daily utilization products with multiple benefits.

References

3. Systemic effects The compounds can enter the body through many ways as inhalation, ingestions, olfactory paths as well as absorption from skin causing an impact to any organ or system of the human body. (Bridges, 2002) End Uses 1. Home Textiles such as bedsheets, curtains, rugs, quilts, carpets, etc.

1.

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/03/aroma-textile-application-of.html

2.

https://www.intechopen.com/books/active-ingredients-from-aromatic-and-medicinal-plants/aromatherapeutic-textiles

3.

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/1929/fragrance-finishing-of-textiles

4.

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4721/application-of-aroma-finish-for-ladies-wear-garments

5.

http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/410/1/FTR%20 32%281%29%20%282007%29%2099-104.pdf

6.

https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=5298

2. Apparel such as socks,undergarments, gloves, etc.

7.

http://article.sapub.org/10.5923.j.textile.20120103.01.html

3. Sports Wear

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h t t p : / / w w w. i a q u k . o r g . u k / E S W/ F i l e s / Fra g ra n ce - e m e r g ing-health-and-environmental-concerns-200220(inglC3A9s).pdf

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Ms. PREETY GUPTA

APPLICATION OF NANOTECHNOLOGY IN ANTI-MICROBIAL TEXTILE

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Nanotechnology is one of the latest innovations in this time that has shaped today’s lifestyle. The properties of nanomaterials have attracted not only scientists and researchers but also businesses, due to their huge economical potential and growing public health concerns. This article explores one of the branches of nanotechnology i.e. anti-microbial finish. Textile with anti-microbial function has been developed for promoting health and hygiene of human safety. At present the whole world is suffering from COVID- 19 pandemic and everyone is looking forward for the health and hygiene options to stay safe. Some anti-microbial finishes are also effective to tackle the virus.

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n the current global crisis from coronavirus pandemic, it has arisen many clinical and public healthcare challenges and nanotechnology is playing a significant role in it. There has been an increase in the public awareness in terms of health and hygiene and therefore creating growth in demand of healthcare or health protective products.

Textile materials particularly made of natural fibres supply an outstanding medium for microbial growth due to their large surface area and ability to retain moisture. Moreover, the problem of degeneration of natural products such as natural wood, cotton, or wool by microorganisms or insects has been faced by human beings since they were first started to be used. Therefore, to prevent undesirable effects such as degradation, unpleasant odours, and potential health risks, textiles are treated with antimicrobial agents. With the help of nanotechnology textiles | AUGUST 2020

are now providing us with number of anti-viral and anti- microbial products that are non-toxic and environmentally friendly, allowing for exceptional hygiene standards in all areas of work and life. As a result, it is possible to create a healthier living and working environment and to offer holistic solutions to people with a diminished immune system. Nanobased surface coatings or finishes can prevent the spread of bacteria, fungi and viruses over infected surfaces of high-traffic objects, such as door and window handle in public places, hospitals, public buildings, schools, frequently used hygiene textiles etc.

ANTIVIRAL AND ANTIMICROBIAL NANOCOATINGS Among other mechanisms, viruses and bacteria can

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spread when a person comes in contact with a site where germs have settled, such as a doorframe, handrail, infected textile or medical device. Garment and textile goods provide favourable environments for bacteria or fungi for their growth. Longer survival length of pathogenic microorganisms on textile materials leads to the spreading of diseases. In order to diminish microbial infections caused by textile goods, antimicrobial textile materials could be used especially in health care facilities.

Prokaryotic structural components of microorganism consist of macromolecules such as DNA, RNA, proteins, polysaccharides, phospholipids, or some interdependent combination. The macromolecules are made up of primary components such as nucleotides, amino acids and sugars. The sequence in which the components are put together in the macromolecule, called the primary structure, determines numerous properties that the macromolecule will have.

PROCESS

AGENTS

TESTING METHOD

As per research done till now nanoparticles of metals like gold, silver, copper, zinc, have shown effective results as antimicrobial agents. The antibacterial properties of gold and silver are well known for their effectiveness in reducing the growth of several microorganisms. Due to high cost of silver and gold material researchers have focused their attention on exploring the possibility of using copper as the ultimate antimicrobial agent. In the recent research copper has been approved as an anti-viral agent along with its anti-bacterial property and are being used in making antiviral textiles. Just like silver copper also have the same properties and nature towards viruses and microbes.

Whether the antimicrobial agent is infused into the textile as a thread or applied to the textile surface as a liquid, testing is crucial to ensure performance.

Textile testing help in evaluating the effectiveness of antibacterial finishes. Testing is also used to conclude about the quality of end products and their extent of microbial resistance. To measure the efficacy of antimicrobially treated textiles, test methods used under controlled conditions are needed for reproducible results. The antimicrobial activities are generally tested for both quality and quantity through standard tests. Laundering is a main source of fabric degradation, so companies often ask for standardized laundering prior to tests. Some of available standards are AATCC 100-2004 Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials, AATTC Test Method 147-2004 Parallel Streak Method, AATTC Test Method 30-2004 Antifungal Activity and Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textiles.

MECHANISM Exposure to copper have resulted in death of microorganism within minutes. Copper toxicity to microorganisms is achieved through several parallel mechanisms. These include plasma membrane permeabilization, membrane lipid peroxidation, alteration of proteins and inhibition of their biological assembly and activity, and denaturation of nucleic acids. Redox between Cu+ and Cu2+ results in the formation of hydroxyl radicals that may attack amino acids, especially histidine and proline, causing substantial protein alterations and even protein cleavage. Viruses are highly affected by the copper induced damage since they do not have tolerance and repair mechanisms, such as DNA repair mechanisms present in bacteria and fungi.

Graphical Representation of Silver Nanoparticels against various microbes

There are several ways by which chemical used as an antimicrobial activity can be applied to the textile material. For antimicrobial finish textile one can use exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray or foam techniques. The antimicrobial substances can also be applied by directly adding into the fibre during the spinning stage which can increase the life span of functional property of the fabric.

HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT ISSUE An antimicrobial hampering the growth or leading the death of microorganism may be harmful to other living species including human being. More than 250 commercially known microbiocides, and several chemical formulations based on these antimicrobe were available in the market. The multiplicity of antimicrobial chemicals introduced the variety in chemical and physical properties in finished products. Concentration of germicide chemical influences the mechanism of microbial resistance.

At an increased concentration multiple cellular and metabolic targets were possible, and at reduced concentrations fewer cellular targets were indicated.

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The release of antimicrobial through the wash- off liquor of the finished fibrous article would introduce the hazard to aquatic life.

END USE Antimicrobial nanocoating can be applied by spraying or dipping and adhere to various surfaces such as glass, metals and various alloys, copper and stainless steel, marble and stone slabs, ceramics and tiles, textiles and plastics. Various products made up of polymer can incorporate these agents at its molten stage which can help in long lasting functioning of these nano particles.

CONCLUSION With advent of new technologies, the growing needs of the consumer in the wake of health and hygiene can be fulfilled without compromising the issues related to safety, human health and environment.

Scientists all over the globe are working in the area and a few of them reported to have used antimicrobial finishes and chemicals to make the fabric having antimicrobial properties. To carve a niche for textile materials, this kind of value adding finishes in our day to day garments are the need of the hour.

Bibliography Zeynep Ustaoglu Iyigundogdu, Okan Demir, Ayla Burcin Asutay, Fikrettin Sahin. (2016). Developing Novel Antimicrobial and AntiviralTextile Products. Springer Science+Business Media New York, 12.

ANTIVIRAL FINISHES Ms. NABARUPA BOSE INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Today a virus-caused infectious health disease presents a major danger to people around the globe. The wild novel 2019 coronavirus (SAR-CoV-2) has reached the globe exponentially from December 2019 until now.

Therefore, antiviral textile is one of the main focus of the researchers and scientists in the textile field specially to survive this crisis. It has been seen that the virus can live and multiply even on textile surfaces which can further be transferred to a human. There are several ways an antiviral finish can be imparted to a textile. This article covers the use of organic or inorganic colloidal or nanoparticle copper compounds, copper complexes to get anti-viral finish on a textile. Scientists from the Hohenstein Institute in Bรถnnigheim are working on this process.

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ny woven or non-woven material made from synthetic or natural material is a Textile. Textile products include a broad variety of applications in fields such as clothes, food manufacturing, building goods, automobile industry, military, medical industry, sporting equipment, livestock, and home furnishing. Properties of textiles such as high-temperature stability, elasticity, waterproofness, biodegradability, or having antimicrobial activity are determined by the basis of use.

Schematic Diagram showing transmission of viruses from different surfaces to human

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A lot of oppurtunities have been created for the application of innovative finishes due to rapid growth in technical textiles and their end uses. Antiviral finishes can be applied onto fabrics using many methods- Present nanotechnology developments provide a forum to reduce the possibility of infectious agent transmission. A possible path to this perspective is equipping antiviral elements for the personal protective devices. Such an essential switch can be achieved by incorporating the antiviral nanomaterials in the fibers or non-woven fabrics that are typically used as facial protective materials. Eco friendly or sustainable methods are also being used these days in order to get antiviral finish on textiles. For example the use of chitosan and natural dyes has been seen to be working. Other herbal methods like tulsi, aloevera, tea tree oil and eucalyptus oil are also being used as a finish. Researchers and scientists are also working towards use of various chemicals like sodium pentaborate pentahydrate and triclosan to cotton fabrics in order to gain antimicrobial and antiviral properties.

This article is a review of antiviral and anti microbial finish found out by the scientists from the Hohenstein Institute in BĂśnnigheim using various organic and inorganic colloidal or nanoparticle copper compounds and copper complexes.

Agents used in finishing

Textiles may help contribute to the transmission of pathogens. Viruses do not have their own metabolism and can thus only live outside a host for a short amount of time, they do not reproduce there unlike bacteria. Even as the hands can collect and disperse germs that cause infection, so can textiles. Textiles that come in daily touch with hands have been shown to lead to the transmission of viruses. It is believed that clothes and medical textiles, such as bed sheets and towels, might theoretically spread a virus if viruses were infected on the inside.

COVID-19 can be transmitted from an infected person by exhaling or emitting body fluids or virus-containing aerosol particles which are then attached to the surfaces and then the receiver comes in contact with it.

Additional experiments are desperately required to curtail the transmission of viral infections. The usage of respiratory protection equipment has been proven to be an important non-pharmaceutical technique to mitigate the transmission of respiratory viruses, especially when used in close touch with a person with symptoms.

The materials and agents required in this process are organic or inorganic colloidal or nanoparticle copper compounds, copper complexes, any acidic medium, dispersed dye, polymer binding agent.

Mechanism Few scientists researched the antiviral properties and pathways of nanoparticles dependent on the copper oxide (CuO NPs). This metal oxide and especially it’s nanoparticles will kill the virus’ integrity.

Researchers have showed that CuO NPs had an excellent anti-HSV-1 virus activity at the maximum non-toxic concentration of CuO NPs (100 g / mL), | AUGUST2020

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as the cell survival rate exceeded 83.3 per cent when CuO NPs were co-cultured with HSV-1 infected cells.

The copper ions emitted from CuO NPs catalyze manufacturing reactive oxygen species ( ROS) that may break the stability of the HSV capsides and kill the whole genome.

Process The research concept included cleaning cloths in which antiviral and antibacterial effectiveness were integrated in one practical textile finish for the first time.

Testing Methods

Color Difference in fabric before and after finishing with copper pigments The sol-gel process was used where organic and inorganic or nanoparticle copper compounds and copper complexes were first applied to get antiviral finish. Using different application techniques such as foulard or spray methods, the effectiveness of the textile microfibre substrate was enhanced. The test viruses were significantly inactivated, retained over 15 washing cycles and were at the same time abrasion-resistant.

A new alternate antiviral finish was obtained for microfibre cloths by finishing in a high-temperature exhaust cycle with copper pigments. In a slightly acid environment, the dispersed copper pigments were incorporated into the fibers in a similar manner to dying with dispersion dyes. In a second stage, fixation was done in a cold padding method using a polymer binding agent to protect the copper particles against mechanical abrasion. These copper finishes also produced smoothness, but compared to the originally lighter fabric color there was a slight green tone.

Different materials such as glass, stainless steel or wood, polluted with viruses were used to check the viability of the finish and thus were cleaned with the antiviral finished cleaning cloths. The research virus was used as the bacterial virus MS2, a non-pathogenic synthetic virus which is comparable with clinically important viruses such as norovirus, poliovirus, hepatitis A or enterovirus due to its composition and environmental stability.

91 per cent of the viruses used were captured by the finished microfibre cloths. At the same time, the concentration of the virus in the fabric has been decreased by around 90%. Pursuant to requirements (DIN EN ISO 20743 and EN 14119), effectiveness studies against bacteria and mould were also carried out. For this research set-up the finishes have been targetedly configured.

The test results showed that antiviral cleaning cloths have an important hygienic impact and may help minimize the risk of germ transmission i.e. pathogens and viruses.

End Use This fabric has innumerable end uses specially in the medical field as protective equipment, on masks and gloves.Nevertheless, antiviral finish can be in-

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COVER STORY corporated in fabrics which may be of benefit in the household setting, clinics, aged people’s residences, nursing homes and civic centres (e.g. canteens) and fire department, ambulance services and military protective equipment. It can also be used in Kindergartens and day-care facilities.

Conclusion Keeping in mind the widespread of Covid-19 disease, it is necessary to optimize innovations like antimicrobial and antiviral finish in everyday products as well. Researchers and scientists are already working towards it.

Nanoparticles of copper are commonly used in antibacterial and antiviral materials because of their low size, excellent stability and strong antiviral properties. It was also seen that it kills the virus integrity within seconds and stops the growth of the genome.

Therefore, the use of copper and its complexes is a good method to get anti viral finishes.

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This process can be used not only in medical applications but also for everyday usage clothing items and advanced textiles production. Newly designed antimicrobial textiles are approved for usage in the military, health care, work / uniforms, home fashions and household goods, as well as athletic clothing in the future. With these latest innovations, customers’ rising needs of antimicrobial textiles are being addressed in relation to safety, human health and the climate.

References: 1.“Zeynep Ustaoglu Iyigundogdu & Okan Demir & Ayla Burcin Asutay & Fikrettin Sahin, (2017) “Developing Novel Antimicrobial and Antiviral Textile Products” 2. Jiliang Zhou1 · Zexu Hu1 · Fatemeh Zabihi1 · Zhigang Chen1 · Meifang Zhu, (23 June 2020), “Progress and Perspective of Antiviral Protective Material” 3.https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/textile-news/2014/01/scientists-prove-benefit-of-textiles-with-antiviral-and-antibacterial-effect/ 4.https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/new-antiviral-textile-finish-reduce-spread-disease-7237/ 5.https://www.cleanroomtechnology.com/news/article_page/Developing_ textiles_that_reduce_the_spread_of_viruses/95286

Ms. NAFEESAH AHMED

ECO-FRIENDLY SUPERABSORBANT ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISH

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Looking for solutions related to the pandemic and being safe, towels should also be considered an essential item. An everyday item that can deteriorate rapidly, as a result of bacteria forming in wet textiles. The quality diminishes as a result of foul smell and becomes unhygienic. Currently, it plays a bigger part, washing our hands and bodies to be protected will also need drying or wiping. Exploring principles of fundamental physics, chemistry, and engineering to understand how liquids soak, flow, and remain in the nanoporous fibrous structure. It can provide aid to developing a product for industrial and commercial application. This eco-friendly superabsorbent finish on terry towel fabric is the answer. This process is not harmful to the environment. It uses natural aloe vera as an anti-bacterial finish. Awareness of eco-friendliness in textiles must be created to meet the demand of global consumer to be eco conscious and green.

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T

erry towel has pile loops on one or both sides covering the entire ground surface. Different concentrations of aloe vera finish with cross linking agents i.e. citric acid and sodium hypophosphite are introduced on it.

This finish can improve the absorbancy, softness, anti-bacterial properties of the terry cotton fabric.

Evaluation of the same is done by standardized testing.

With high concentration of aloe vera, there was reduced growth of bacteria. Absorbency was improved because of cross linking agents. Water moves around in the fibre matrix due to which there is a rise in capillary action. Resulting in swelling of fibre, which can hold more quantity of water.

AGENTS USED Fabric used - scoured and bleached Terry towel, woven in jacquard terry loom.

Chemicals used - Citric acid, sodium hypophosphite as a catalyst MECHANISM The relationship between water molecules and long chain molecules in the fibre determines the uptake of liquid. Aiming for superabsorbency, to restrict the liquid’s movement and prevent it from being squeezed out under pressure instead of increasing absorbent capacity. This finish absorbs recurrently, more than its weight and holds on to the absorbed liquid when pressure is applied.

Structure and Functioning

increasing agent) and Sodium hypophosphite (catalyst), applied with the concentration of 2%, 4%, 6%, 8 % and 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, respectively. With MLR of 1:30. Keeping temperature of 90° C for 60 minutes to use pad – dry – cure method with the help of Padding mangle.

Anti - microbial treatment Further, this sample was treated with Aloe Vera gel (anti-microbial), having concentration 3%, 6%, 9% and 12%. Followed by cold wash and then hot wash with the padding mangle.

Aloe vera was found to be the best to restrict the growth of bacteria or microorganism on fabrics. It stops bad odour which is released after several uses.

It also improves the quality of the fabric.

TESTING METHOD The following are absorbency test methods as per ASTM961 standards.

• Spray Test – Sample treated with 8% concentration of citric acid and 4% concentration of sodium hypophosphite was best. High concentration created room for the water to stay in the internal structure of the fibre.

Absorbency depends on osmotic pressure, ionic impulsion, elasticity of the intra molecular structure of polymers and density of its hydrophilic groups. Superabsorbents are dense cross-linked three-dimensional network of hydrophilic polymers.

Fluid is locked and kept away from the skin, minimizing irritation and providing comfort.

The small-scale arrangement of cellulose molecules is due to its structure, minimal in crystalline regions and higher in amorphous region. Pile height can cause changes in capillary action.

PROCESS Fabric was previously scoured and bleached. Followed by, treatment with citric acid (absorbency

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• Wicking Test – Sample with 6% concentration of citric acid and 3% concentration of sodium hypophosphite considered best. Formation of capillaries in the internal structure of cotton fibre which led to the increase of height.

The untreated sample does not show any increase.

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End Uses • Sinking Test – Untreated sample float on the water surface longer. Treated samples sink faster to the bottom. Higher absorbency shown because of opening of spaces in the fibre structure, water molecules rush inside the piles structure.

• Drop Test – The time needed for the water molecules to seep through and pass inside the piles is noted. Treated sample has good absorbency as pores open up. Untreated sample does not show much difference.

Antimicrobial Test The sample was introduced to an E-coli culture in a pharmacy lab. It was kept for seven days in room temperature. Then, antimicrobial property was tested, under microscope for growth of the microbes. Prompted with water, a necessary condition for growth of microbes.

RESULTS Untreated sample - High level of bacterial growth caused more formation of colonies. As a result, fabric starts to smell, fabric quality degrades. Overall, an unhygienic item. Sample A, treated with 3% concentration of aloe vera shows good result comparatively. Has good anti-microbial properties, as it did not show growth of microbes. In Sample B, bacteria is spotted after 7 days. Low level of colony formation. Sample C, treated with 9% concentration of Aloe Vera, kept for 7 days. More growth of bacteria compared to sample A and sample B. Increasing concentration of aloe vera does not ensure anti-microbial behaviour. In Sample D, more colonies formed compared to the other 3. However, untreated sample showed much higher number of colonies. Higher

As towels and robes for homes and hotel industry. As Sportswear apparel and athletic wear like sweat and moisture absorbing socks. Quick absorbing robes for swimmers.

Application in the health industry such as baby diapers, feminine hygiene products, hospital textile products. Usage as mop and wipes, as part of the cleaning industry.

SUMMARY Advantage of this finish is that it is nature friendly along with having exquisite absorbency powers, more than its weight. Opportunity for various applications. Microbial growth is limited to none. Softer fabric absorbs much quicker and more liquid. No harmful chemicals are used.

REFERENCES

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Daberao, A.M. Nadiger, V.G. Raichurkar, P.P. Shivankar, V.S. (2017).

Eco-friendly finishes applied on Terry Towel fabrics. Colourage.

February issue. 40-47. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Vijay_Shivankar/publication/315379547_Eco-friendly_finishes_applied_on_Terry_Towel_fabrics/links/58ce27a7a6fdcc5cccbbe971/ Eco-friendly-finishes-applied-on-Terry-Towel-fabrics.pdf

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Daberao, A.M. Raichurkar, P.P. Shivankar, V.S. (2017). Hygienic Super Absorbent Terry Towel. Biochemistry: an Indian journal. 11(1). 1-12. https://www.tsijournals.com/articles/hygienic-super-absorbentterry-towel.pdf

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All pictures/tables used are part of the experiment.

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Ms. ITISIKTA PANI

UV PROTECTIVE FINISH ON TEXTILES

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT Growing awareness of the need for sun protection, which is related to the incidence of sun-induced skin damage and its connection to increased UV exposure. Importance UV protective finishes on textiles to combat the harmful effect of UV radiations, its incorporation in fibres, dyes and other processes to create skin friendly UV protective clothing.

The World will be a hollow ball of ice-coated rock without the heat and light of the sun. The sun is warming our oceans, stirring our climate, creating our patterns of weather, and giving energy to rising green plants that provide life on earth with food and oxygen. However, with all the positive attributes, the sunlight also comes with its own set of disadvantages.

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xposure to small amounts of sunlight is beneficial to the species, as it leads to bone growth and vitamin assimilation. Over-exposure to the sun however increases the risk of permanent skin damage.

Important protective measures are recommended by dermatologists, like avoiding prolonged exposure to the skin, wearing sunglasses and using cosmetics equipped with sunscreen. Also, the use of textile garments with UV protective finishes. Ultraviolet Radiations are electromagnetic rays with a wavelength between 100-400nm. Solar UVR that reaches earth has wavelength between 290-400nm. So, depending upon the wavelength, it is classified • Ultraviolet region – A with 320-400nm • Ultraviolet region – B with 290-320nm

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• Ultraviolet region – C with 100 nm-290 nm

Reference: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780081024911000125

COVER STORY UV-B and UV-A can reach the earth’s surface and cause serious health problems like skin cancer (melanoma), erythema (skin reddening), sunburn, DNA damage, acceleration of skin ageing, eye damage and etc. UV-C is entirely absorbed by ozone layer.

Therefore, having the need of UV protective finish in the field of textiles. The wavelengths of maximum danger to skin are 305 -310 nm. Therefore, to be able to exhibit effectiveness in protecting the wearer from solar UV radiation, textiles must have UV protection in the range of 300-320 nm.

The SPF (Solar protective factor) is the ratio of the potential erythemal effect (skin reddening) to the actual erythemal effect transmitted through the fabric by the radiation which can be calculated from spectroscopic measurements. In Europe and Australia, it is known as UPF.

Reference: http://www.health24by7.com/healtheffects-sun-god-light/

SPF of > 40 is considered to provide good protection over UV radiations. UV protective treatment is given to industrial fabrics for awnings, canopies, tents and blinds. Lightweight knitted and woven fabrics should be combined with UV protective finishes to have products like shirts, blouses, T shirts, swimwear, sportswear, etc. as the most exposure to the sun is during the summers. It is a relatively new concept to protect skin against UV radiations so it is not highly commercialised. When radiation strikes a fibre surface, it can be reflected, absorbed or transmitted through the fibre or pass between fibres.

The relative amounts of radiation reflected, absorbed or transmitted depends on several factors: • Fibre type • Smoothness of the fibre

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• Dyes • UV absorbents and more Polyester, silk and wool fabrics are better UV blockers than cotton or rayon and polyester fibres even show a better absorption-due their aromatic nature.

The transmission can also be reduced due to tighter weave which in turn enables greater protection.

With the same weave structure, the SPF of the fabric increases with its thickness so, when there’s a closed texture (having low porosity), there is low transmission of UVR. SPF increases as the relative humidity is raised which is strongly dependent on the type of fibre. Dyes have a considerable influence on UV permeability as they can absorb light in the UVR spectral region. Absorbing property of each dye is different and unique to their dyestuff. Their UV protection power is dependent on concentration. Mixture of certain dyes can provide higher SPF than the individual. Lengthening of the chromophoric chain of two linked dyes owing to their interaction leads to an increase of the SPF of fabric.

UV absorbers are colourless compounds with very high absorption in the 290-400 nm UV range. UV absorbers embedded in fibres transform electrical energy from excitation into thermal energy. They act as radical scavengers and scavengers to oxygen.

Cibatex UPF is a two-group UV absorber. Repeated washing is considered stable because of the bi-reactive structure of this absorber. This can be applied to fabrics such cotton and cotton blends. Cibafast W is a derivative of monosulphonated benotriazole. Applied to mixture of wool, silk, polyamide fibres. They are joined by covalent bond to the fibre to permanently enhance the UV defence. UV absorbers used in the dyeing process reduce the intake of dye, except for post-treatment use. They are compatible with the dyes and are applied using standard methods of padding, exhaust, pad thermosol, pad dry cure.

UV absorbers are added between 30-40g / l depending on the form and structure of the fibre. The main limitations of UV are that they cannot be applied together with other finishing agents in one bath.

Then also comes special finishing agents like TiO2 particles and Ryosan finish. Synthetic UV absorption can be adjusted by pigmentation by TiO2 particles, which eventually contributes to the dispersion of UV rays. They get wrapped in the fibre and are easy to wash. It also contributes to permanent UV defence development. Rayosan is a commercial UV-absorber which can react with fibres like reactive dyes.

Rayosan C paste and CO liquid products are used for finishing cellulose. The Rayosan finish has a good washing fastness.

• Fabric construction • Moisture content

The need to shield humans from toxic UV radiation | AUGUST2020

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is clear when confronted with a thinning ozone layer and the rise in the number of skin cancer cases. Textiles with a sufficiently high SPF rating are a part of combating skin cancer and this will require the development of stronger UV absorbers suitable for low SPF fibres. Sun security requires a combination of sun avoidance and the use of protective clothing and accessories. The three ways of guarding against the deleterious effects of UV radiation are to limit the exposure period to sunlight, using sunscreens and protective clothing.

Bibliography Azadeh Basari, Mina Shakeri, Anahita Rhouhani Shrivan (2019), “The impacts and prospects of green chemistry for textile technology” Achwal, W. B. ‘UV protection by textiles’ Colourage; Apr 2000, Vol. 47 Issue 4, p 50.

Usha Sayed, Rina Tiwari, Prince Dabhi (2015), “UV protection finishes on textile fabrics” https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2328/uv-protection-finishes https://www.slideshare.net/Tanveer_ned/ultraviolet-protection-finishes?from_action=save https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=2837

FLAME RETARDANT FINISHES Ms. KAJAL ARYA INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ABSTRACT The need for flame retardant textile finishing is discussed in the light of hazards associated with textile flammability, related regulations and procedures for determining textile burning behaviour. This explains in detail the functions of flame retardant finishes and durable finishes produced specifically for cellulose, wool and man-made fibers. Multipurpose finishes are being studied for both cellulose and wool textiles in which flame retardance is just one property bestowed on the textile. Fibre blends pose a specific challenge and careful attention is paid to addressing certain finishes applied to fabrics blended in polyester / cotton. It tests the laundering actions and the consequent durability of the end. In addition, consideration is given to the effects that applying flame retardant finishes has on textile properties and efficiency. It outlines recent advances in methods for applying flame retardant finishes.

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lame-resistant textiles are most commonly made from synthetic fabrics which have been han| AUGUST 2020

dled individually with flame-resistant additives.

However, they can also be made from synthetic fi-

COVER STORY bers of inherent flame-resistant quality, natural fibers treated with flame-resistant additives, or fabrics that are coated during finishing with flame-resistant additives. Flammable textiles don’t get on fire easily.

These also prevent fire, and block flames. Flame-resistant textiles are widely used in fabrics for baby wear, children’s pyjamas, general clothing, wall coverings, decorative furniture, curtains, tents, special work clothing, and many more.

Agents used in Flame Retardant Antimony tri bromide is a dense white powder which is one of the major components of the traditional white smoke seen from burning polymers that contain halogen which antimony oxide. High water levels from normal combustion induce reversal of SbBr3 to HBR and Sb203. The resulting antimony oxide is then available for reaction from decomposing brominated compound with fresh HBR. Usually materials used in flame retardant applications contain either 40 to 70 percent chlorine or 45 to 80 percent bromine, depending on the flame retardant specifications of 20 to 40 parts of Brominated compound per 100 parts of polymer should be used. Usually the antimony oxide used is 1/4th that of the halogenated material.

Mechanism of Flame Retardant Temperature on combustion, TC-Around this stage the flammable gasses in the cycle called combustion mix with oxygen. This is a sequence of radical reactions free from gas phase. These reactions are highly exothermic and generate large amounts of light and heat.

Process of Flame Retardant Flame retardants are chemicals which are used in fabrics to prevent or suppress the process of combustion. They interfere with the combustion at different stages of the process e.g. during heating, decomposition, flame spread ignition. Fire is a reaction in the phase gas. To burn a substance, it must turn into a gas. A textile fabric exposed to a heat source experiences a rise in temperature as with any solid.

If the source temperature (either radiative or gas flame) is high enough, and the net heat transfer rate to the fabric is high, pyrolytic fiber substratum decomposition may occur. This decomposition ‘s products include combustible gases, non-combustible gases, and carbonaceous char. The fuel gasses mix with the ambient air and the oxygen thereof. When the composition and temperature are favorable, the mixture ignites, yielding a flamme. Part of the heat produced inside the flame is transferred to the fabric to maintain the cycle of burning, and part is lost to the atmosphere.

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Apart from flame retardants, the key interest is that they can persevere in the atmosphere, build living organisms and harm human health or be toxic to wildlife.

Products can typically only be bio-synthesized if they are obviously dissolvable in fats and hardly dissolvable in water, because water-soluble chemicals are released from the body through urine without any difficulty. Further bio-synthesis chemicals require to build up as being used by the body in series from food, water, or air. When it is in use, they also require being adequately stable and resistant to biochemical degradation. Bio-synthesis can only happen if these conditions are satisfied. Among the other flammable retardants in commercial application, merely extremely a small number of are possible to build up for organisms. Although experimental levels are extremely low, they match to possible toxicity.

Flame retardants need a strong chemical permanence to play their role; most of them are used in polymers that are performed at 200-3500 degree C temperatures depending on polymer use. They would cause weakening during this active stage if they were not sufficiently stable. In addition, flame retardants are widely used in comprehensive survivable objects such as television sets, computers, cars, aircraft, building materials. And they will live and deliver fire protection for the manufactured products’ entire lifespan. Chemical stability is also helpful if someone wants to recycle polymers, as recycles will hold up the properties of fire retardant. Unluckily, this necessary chemical stability, which is normally recounted to constancy in the environment , i.e. resolving adjacent to microorganisms, sunlight or water.

Possible toxic tests for FRs seem to be near to the ground as they are chemically behaved in reaction to the substance on which they are applied to treatment, or physically incorporated inside it and thus not capable of having significant external effects.

Certain flame retardants are by no means harmful in contrast with other widely used chemicals. There are different forms of chemical flame retardant classes available and rates of interactions with living species. And within a chemical community there can be significant dissimilarity in toxic properties seen, since depending on the degree of molecular interaction with cells, little modification to a molecule may have major effects.

Health and environmental issues | AUGUST2020

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COVER STORY for flame retardant fiber, so it is typically not done.

Flame retardant treated fabrics are not normally used as high-end products, as they have defects in terms of washing resistance, handle, strength, especially tear strength. Cotton flame retardant fabrics are the staple of flame retardant products because of the fairly advanced flame retardant processing technology of all-cotton and terylene products, and the low cost of base material. They are commonly used as decorative textiles in public places in fields such as mine, windpipe, and wall cloth. Cotton flame retardant fabrics from the number of the main market, such as China’s protective clothing network provided by the flame retardant clothing, can be said to be using cotton flame retardant fabric.

End-Uses of flame retardant Flame retardant end-uses are- For fire fighters, Curtain and carpet of chinema hall, Military and Airline industry, Furniture, Electronic goods and insulation, Building insulation, Foam furniture, Wires and Cabling.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Flame Retardant Fabric

References

In today’s special protection market, the flame retardant fabrics used in traditional flame retardant clothing can be loosely divided into two groups. One type of tissue is treated with a flame retardant fabric.

Many fabrics, however, are made by combining one part of flame retardant fiber with another part of ordinary fiber, and then being treated with flame retardant. Nevertheless, repetitive repeated processing can cause waste, and even harm to the fiber, at least

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/229620044_Flame-retardant_Finishing_of_Textiles https://crs.ul.com/en/news-events/testing-fabric-flammability/ https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/42/flame-retardants-in-textiles–the-sign-of-safety https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/06/flame-retardants-finishes-mechanisms-of.html

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| AUGUST 2020

COVID-19 AND CONSUMER

Ms. YURYANGLA MUILANG FASHION DESIGNER

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he coronavirus pandemic is the biggest change most of us will have experienced in the lifetime and lead to the evolution of numerous consumer attitude. As lockdown and social distancing continue, staying home is transforming people’s psychology towards fashion, be it the consumer or the fashion creator they are utilizing this time to think about new projects to cope with the future. The virus is a major sign of a planet to the fashion brands to end fast fashion. This is the time to start envisioning different products and experiences.

Future Consumer Life has once again been reduced to the essentials.

We are in a stage of rejection unless fashion does fulfil functionality and necessity. Design should now be change in the way that what you offer remains modern. Shifting to Recycling and upcycling to wearing second hand in everyday life can save the Earth from a lot of dumps. I would say passing down outgrowing garments to younger children, swapping, swishing and sharing by giving them a new life is the most convenient way to extend the life of your clothes. It is one key to contribute towards sustainable fashion.

Understanding Future Consumer like the way people expect, feel and behave, will encourage us to tackle the changes ahead. We need to look at the modern consumer, and it’s more important than ever to understand what this consumer will want to buy in the short, mid and long-term. According to Andrea Bell, WGSN Insight (May 2020) Industries are having to adapt to a new reality that demands flexibility, resilience and above all creativity. Trends that predicted for the next decade have accelerated to become part of our lives in a matter of weeks. The good news is that times of great crisis lead to tremendous innovation and the designers, creators, strategists, marketers, buyers in fashion industry will rise to this challenge like never.

The one thing our current situation can direct us is

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ADAPTING THE NEW REALITY

that the future will come more rapidly than we think.

The fashion world will be moving from showrooms to digitally produced campaigns, and a digital shift will prevent buyers from traveling and reduce waste.

Holidaying will be local once the lockdown is over, and the consumer will look to natural and biodegradable products.

Market Opportunity The long-term economic impact of the coronavirus pandemic is unknown, but the global short-term unemployment rates are daunting. Many people are relying on localized social commerce to supplement income and this shopping behavior will remain strong for the foreseeable future. Identify social commerce platforms for partnerships and Start small by deploying a limited product test, and track what’s gaining in terms of sales and discovery before major investment. 1.Livestream Shopping Coronavirus is normalizing livestream sales for many countries. According to WGSN livestreaming will continue to remain dominant shopping option. It allows them to interact and shop virtually anywhere.

Retailers investing in branded live stream shopping events to maximize sales will obtain excellent opportunity. Like how Nike In January 2019, released a limited-edition shoe via livestream on the gaming platform Twitch was able drove high rates of engagement and conversions, and the product soon sold out.

2. AR/VR shopping According to a 2018 Gartner survey, 100 million consumers will shop AR/VR by 2020, and this will continue to grow as a conversational commerce channel. Gartner expects that the implementation of 5G and AR/VR in stores will transform not only customer engagement but also the entire product management cycle of brands and will enhance store traffic issues. Retailers should make the experience sharable as feedback will help to understand the products when purchasing. Around the world, fashion weeks are canceled, postponed, or going virtual. Tokyo, Shanghai, and Moscow have | AUGUST2020

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COVID-19 AND CONSUMER

already explored alternatives with virtual format live-streaming shows. Abandoning the traditional fashion calendar, The British label Burberry announced the spring/summer 2021 show on 17th September digitally for those unable to travel and visit.

3. Sustainable Hub India being one of the most significant producers and exporter of cotton in the world, making of cotton fabric products will mark a key step in globalizing it. India possesses extensive capability to build sourcing system using indigenous facility rather sourcing raw materials from other country. This is the time consumers around the world hunting for anything sustainable. And our country is blessed with plenty of natural resources.

India can be a “Sustainable Hub, “ It can’t happen overnight, but this is something which we absolutely need looking forward in long-term fashion market.

Ways to Engage • Talk to a cohort that expects certain things, create products and services that meet their lifestyles, focus on hyper-local delivery. Time speed remain the key, Delivery services must shorten time especially in congested urban areas and technology will help overcome this.

• Reduce operating cost and inventory, renegotiating payment terms to manage daily overflowing to have immediate cash. Present state applies the survival of the fittest that ability to make best out of it in the fast-changing market.

• Peer-to-peer social commerce will continue rising and focused on supporting community members by opting to purchase directly from friends will regenerate local economy.

• Exchanging Leftover materials at the end of each season all at a lower price point than the main range.

• Bringing garments to new life out of Factories archived deadstock. Rescuing fabrics instead of making them redundant provides opportunity to contribute to the welfare of recycling. Old garments can be restyling and sold in Instagram, online website, etc.

The Current Challanges • Traditional and institutional brands and retailers will continue losing market share to local retailers and local store. And is likely creating recessions throughout the remainder of the year and possibly trickling into 2021.

• Consumer Sentiment: Immense Fear and anxiety of environmental and financial uncertainty due to widespread unemployment urged consumers feel uneasy about the future.

• Brands that were struggling might disappear, es-

| AUGUST 2020

pecially independent and young designers. And Big brands might want to get back to business but it’s a question of how long this goes on for.

• This pandemic has transformed the world and taught to live on only essentials. But When we are back on track, human will forget the new realities and will go back to old normal life.

• With the economy at an all-time low and layoffs becoming more common than ever, consumers are thinking twice before making any purchase. Consumers are looking at value and best prices.

• Fashion brands have experienced immediate shocks to their supply chains and sales, luxury goods conglomerates stocks are down, and retailers struggle to retain workers on a payroll. Bain & Company report shows that luxury market is likely to lose between $65 to $75 billion in sales this year.

Every company is bearing losses in this unprecedented global shut down and also need to take care of the mental, physical and financial well-being of the people involved in the process of designs-garment. We react differently in times of crisis, depending on our environment, in terms of fashion, and there will be a slowdown. I believe it’s a good time to re-evaluate the actual needs and saying goodbye to fast fashion buying scam. We can focus more on local and sustainable product in the near future in response to ongoing global issues. Simplicity in design, investment in technology, Creativity and collaboration are key in this situation, and we hope this isn’t just a short-term crisis trend. While we continue living virtually, everyone among your connections can keep exchanging a concrete deep idea, thoughts and innovation to be more productive. However, this is a worldwide crisis. The solution must be collective. We cannot be lonesome; we can only overcome things together.

References h t t ps : / / m .w g s n . co m / i A 1 B 0 H W D LW m 0 0 Y 0 1 m i U 3 Z 0 6 https://yourstory.com/2020/06/consumer-shopping-experience-shift-online-post-covid-19 https://yourstory.com/2020/06/consumer-shopping-experience-shift-online-post-covid-19 https://www.bing.com/news/search?q=Fashion+Industry+Post+Corona+Virus&qpvt=FASHION+INDUSTRY+POST+CORONA+VIRUS+&FORM=NWRFSH h t t p s : / / e l l e . i n / a r t i c l e / f a s h i o n - i n d u s t r y - p o s t- c o r o n a v i r u s / https://www.iknockfashion.com/will-covid-19-draw-attention-to-sustainable-fashion/ https://yourstory.com/2020/06/consumer-shopping-experience-shift-online-post-covid-19

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CLOTHING FROM MESTA FIBRE DR. N.N MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD

ABSTRACT Mesta is a bast fibre, which grows extensively in India and in some parts of Eastern Asia. It is used as a substitute for jute. Mesta (Hibiscus cannabinus) is a bast fibre with certain desirable textile properties like good strength,lustre, good microbial and atmospheric resistance. The quality of the Mesta fibre is judged based on almost the same criteria as in the case of jute and the grading is done on the same lines, although the I.S.I. specifications are now due.

A

lthough cotton is highly versatile with properties suitable for apparel, certain properties that are desirable are not available with cotton. Hence it has become necessary to find out fibres that could bridge the gap between the required and existing properties. One such answer to the problem is provided by mesta which is a bast fibre taken from stalk of the mesta plant. Earlier some research work has been done on some aspects relating to blending of mesta with jute and also jute with viscose. Investigations on blending of jute with mesta fibres have shown that the latter could be a cheaper substitute for the former.

from Afro- Asian countries, ranks next to jute in importance (sharing 15% of raw jute-cum-mesta fibre production). Mesta is more adaptive and drought tolerant than jute under diverse conditions of climate and soil. ! In India (2010-11), area under mesta is around 85 thousand hectares with a fibre production of 6.2 lakh bales ( One bale is equal to 180 kg) !

Andhra Pradesh (A.P) is a leading state in the country with respect to both area and production which accounts for 30 per cent of the area and 42 per cent of the production. In A.P., mesta is concentrated in Srikakulam and Vizianagaram districts accounting for 98.7% area of total area in the State.

Mesta is a bast fibre, which grows extensively in India and in some parts of Eastern Asia. It is used as a substitute for jute.

PRODUCTION OF MESTA FIBRES

Mesta, a herbaceous annual plant (lignocellulosic bast fibre crop like jute) believed to be originated

The fibre of Mesta is obtained from stem of Hibiscus sabdariffa varaltissima and Hibiscus Cannabinus, family Malvaceae. Hibiscus sabdariffa and Hibis| AUGUST2020

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cus Cannabinus denote varieties of the two species.

The area, which favours for Mesta fibre cultivation are within the jute belt, the yield of Mesta is high in West Bengal, Bihar, Assam and Tripura. Outside the jute belt, the highest acreage is in Andhra Pradesh and the areas assuming importance are Dandakaranya, Orissa, eastern Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Karnataka and Uttar Pradesh. Other states grow Hibiscus Cannabinus types over small areas, mostly for home consumption. Yield in the drier areas is a less than that in the humid ones.

The favourable climatic conditions are a warm and humid climate suits both Hibiscus sabdariffa andHibiscus Cannabinus varieties. Both these varieties grow in drier rain fed areas, the latter being more drought-resistant.

In areas with 500-900 mm of rain fed, Hibiscus Cannabinus suits better by virtue of its shorter duration and faster growth. Neither variety can withstand prolonged water-logging. Both the kharif crops and are sown in April-June with the first showers of the monsoon. Heavy, continuous rains and low temperature are harmful.

It is extracted as a bast fibre retting is done in the same manner as in the case of jute, but the low temperature and the paucity of water or both pose a problem. The harvested stems of both Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Hibiscus Cannabinus can be stored under dry conditions for retting next season during the middle of the monsoon. The resulting Hibiscus Cannabinus fibre is better than that of Hibiscus Sabdariffa. Retting in the current season, if possible, is always preferable.

The quality of the Mesta fibre is judged based on almost the same criteria as in the case of jute and the grading is done on the same lines, although the I.S.I. specifications are now due.

A proper stage of harvesting gives higher fibre yield as well as better quality. If the plants are harvested pre-maturely in early stages, the quality fibre is good but the fibre yield is poor. If the plants are harvested late the fibre yield is better but quality of fibre goes down. The best time to harvest mesta for fibre is when the plants are in 50% flowering. Harvesting is done normally by cutting the plants close to the ground.

In some areas the plants of mesta are also uprooted.

Such plants take more time to ret and quality of fibre is adversely affected. After the harvesting the plants are sorted out based on the thickness of the stems followed by bundling of plants in convenient sizes of 25-30 cms in diameter. These bundles kept standing in the field for 2-3 days for shredding of leaves. The shredding of leaves simultaneously helps in shrink-

| AUGUST 2020

ing and rupturing of the bark which helps in the entrance of retting microorganisms.

Retting: Steep method of retting is very popular in all mesta growing areas. The steep retting consists of bundling of mesta plants after harvesting . The bundles are kept in standing position in 50-60 cms deep water for nearly 3-4 days. This helps in retting of the hard lower portion of the bark. After 3-4 days the standing bundles are laid down in the retting water and slightly drowned (nearly 10 cms) in water with the help of weights made of cement blocks or stones.

Care should be taken not to put any weighed material which releases tannin and iron. For hastening the retting process spraying of 1.25 % Urea solution(12.5gm/lt. of water) on mesta sticks is desirable before retting of the bundles. Soon after completion of retting the fibre can be extracted from the sticks by single plant extraction method. The fibre is extracted from a single plant individually, each plant from the bundle is taken out and with the help of fingures the fibre is extracted, washed and kept. The bundles of ret fibre after washing are open and dried on bamboo frames under the sun. After 3 or 4 days the dried fibre is properly assorted and bundled in different grades for marketing of the fibre.

Advanced retting methods: Two improved techniques of microbial retting are developed by Central Research Institute for Jute and Allied Fibres, Baratpur, Kolkata by utilization Microbial retting consortium for efficient retting during water scarcity situation utilizing minimum amount of ground water They are a) Mechano-microbial/ ribbon retting b) Micro-pind microbial retting. a) Mechano-Microbial/Ribbon Retting ! The power operated bast fibre extractor can extract 25 kg dry fibre ribbons per hour with broken sticks while manually operated Mesta fibre extractor can extract 15 kg dry fibre per hour with unbroken sticks. ! These ribbons are then treated with the microbial consortium @ 100 ml/10 kg of green ribbons and kept for 1 hour covering with polythene sheet. For small scale, in polythene lined retting tank of 1 M3 size (1m x 1m x 1m) containing 1000 litres of water ! After Five to seven days, the retting process will be completed b) Micro-pond microbial retting ! A circular micro pond of 6.5 m floor diameter and 7.5 m top diameter and 1 m deep having 1 m wide earthen embankment lined with polyethylene sheet (800 to 1000 gauge, 30 ft x 27 ft) is sufficient to mesta harvested from 1333.3 M2 (0.13 Hectors) land. ! The sharp bases of the mesta plants have to be blunted by ramming the bundles on hard surface to avoid damage to the polyethylene sheet. ! A single layer of straw bundles arranged radially at the bottom of the pond over polyethylene/

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tarpulin sheet to avoid damage to the polyethylene sheet ! Harvested Mesta bundles are arranged radially upto three layers keeping base of the plants towards periphery of the pond. Microbial consortium @ 1 kg/layer diluted in 10 liters of water will be applied to the mesta bundles in the pond. ! The retting process will be completed with 12- 15 days. ! The fibre will be with golden yellow colour PROPERTIES OF MESTA FIBRES ; Mesta (Hibiscus cannabinus) is a bast fibre with certain desirable textile properties like good strength,lustre, good microbial and atmospheric resistance. Mesta fibre is not much utilized now in textile sector due to its coarse and stiff nature. Bast fibres are silky lusture, high tensile strength, low extensibility, considerable heat and fire resistance and long stable length ,that make it suitable for industrial use. Raw jute/ mesta fibre is mainly used in the industry in the manufacture of packaging materials.

Studies on blending of viscose with jute have revealed that yarn irregularity decreased with increase in the viscose component and also the weaving efficiency and fabric quality showed improvements even with 10% viscose in the blend. Studies on the quality assessment of jute and mesta yarns from their fibre properties show that the tenacity of jute and mesta yarns has been related to bundle tenacity and fineness and the multiple correlation coefficient has been found to be 0.8. The earlier researches evidently point out the importance of mesta fibre with regard to properties. Hence this research attempts to investigate the effect of blending of mesta with cotton. The mesta fibre has been processed separately before blending it with cotton. The process sequence is given below: The blending has been done in the ratio of 70:30 (Cotton: Mesta). Proportion of mesta beyond 30% in the blend created problems in processing.

Mesta fibres presoaked for 24 hours and softened with25 per cent soidum hydroxide had bright colour, more dye uptake followed by zinc chloride, teepol and turkey red oil. Teepol and turkey red oil improved the texture of the mesta fibres followed by sodium hydroxide and zinc chloride. Fibres softened with sodium hydroxide had bright lustre followed by zinc chloride, teepol and turkey red oil. Mesta fibres softened with sodium hydroxide had excellent overall appearance followed by zinc chloride, teepol and turkey red oil. Fibres softened with sodium hydroxide was found to be cheapest and best, compared to all other three chemical softening methods mentioned earlier. ‘ Mesta fibres presoaked for 24 hours and softened with25 per cent concentration of chemical gave the best softened effect which was proved statistically also. Fibres softened with sodium hydroxide improved the dye uptake, texture, lustre and

absorbency to the desired degree of acceptance at reasonable cost. Hence sodium hydroxide is found to be the best chemical suitable for softening the mesta fibres.

USES OF MESTA FIBRES Fibre extracted from untreated and vertical-horizontally steeped stalks exhibited significant fibre elongation. The physical characteristics of 80:20 cotton/mesta blended yarn were better than the 100 per cent organic cotton and 60:40 cotton/mesta blended yarns. Moreover, mesta fibres have added strength to cotton yarn and simultaneously decreased the elongation making the blend suitable for knits, curtains and draperies and other household textiles including table & kitchen linen. The softened mesta fibre could be used in handicrafts and textile industries for making furnishings, bulletin board covers, hand bags, carry bags, campcoats, lamp shades etc. By using softened mesta fibres, the aesthetic appeal can be enhanced there by increasing the utility of the products | AUGUST2020

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Mr. DEBJIT BISWAS INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

APPLICATION OF COIR FIBRE REINFORCED GREEN COMPOSITE

ABSTRACT With the rise in pollution and degradation of the environment researches are more focusing on the use of natural fibers such as jute, coir, sisal, etc. This has resulted in creating an awareness of using natural fiber reinforced biodegradable composites to replace the traditional fiber reinforced plastic composites. The objective of the paper is to develop a led incorporated biodegradable composite to add a product range in the field of home accessories. Coir fiber is selected as the reinforce material as it is ecological, non-toxic and biodegradable. Other than that Coir fibers have properties that help to improve strength, stiffness and make the product lightweight. There are many natural cellulose fibers but coir is used for being coarse, thick and is the most resistant to other commercial fiber. It is extracted from the outer shell of the coconut. Coir fiber is rich in lignin, making it even suitable for the products where slow degradability is required. The paper also briefs about composites, natural fiber different properties of coir fiber, polymer matrices and totally renewable composites.

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ccording to Kelly[1] composites are not regarded as a simple combination of two materials.

Instead it is a unique combination of its own distinctive properties such as resistance to heat and other desirable qualities. The definition by Van Suchetclan [2] says that composites are homogeneous material as any portion of it will carry the same property. It can also be considered as heterogeneous material with two or more solid phases in contact on a microscopic scale.The history says that the use of composite has increased in a varied field where the strength and stiffness properties are hugely required. Over the era, the use of composite has rapidly increased because of its quality of high structural performance at low cost and compliance with the environment. The material majorly used to make composites were glass fiber, carbon fiber and aramid fiber reinforced with epoxy and unsaturated polyester for high mechanical strength. However, the major issue that arises is the non-biodegrada| AUGUST 2020

bility of these materials. With the rise of environmental consciousness and demand of legislative authority for their recycling, it becomes ethically though to continue using these materials.

The Composites consists of matrices which function to disperse the fibers, it’s orientation and spacing. It avoids catastrophic propagation of cracks by transferring the obtained stress by the load on the composite, to the fibers by adhesion or friction across the fiber-matrix interface.[3] They can be further classified on the basis of matrix such as Metal matrix composites , Ceramics matrix composites and Polymer matrix composites. The synthetic polymer composites are petroleum based products. With growing awareness to reduce the carbon footprint and to preserve the petrochemical resources, alternatives are being searched by the researchers to replace the petroleum based composites [4]. The synthetic polymers produce a huge plastic waste which is non-biodegradable. A lot of energy in the form of

S U S TA I N A B L E F I B R E heat and pressure is required to fabricate the composites. The Limitation of the reserves of petroleum is the major problem for synthetic polymers [5]. Due to these rising issues researchers are looking forward to polymers synthesised by sustainable and eco friendly raw materials. This led to use of natural fiber along with polymer matrices. According to recent research, the energy required in production of natural fibres is more than half of the energy needed for the synthesis of synthetic fibres.

Natural fibres are light in weight, , non-irritating, non-abrasive non-toxic, combustible, and biodegradable[6]. Natural fibers are classified on the basis of their content i.e cellulose, protein and mineral[7].

The other fibres used are Coir (Coconut), Bamboo , Pineapple , Ramie Advantages of green composites are less expensive, light weight, flexible, renewable resource, good sound insulator and also helps in thermal recycling. The cellulose are further classified on the basis of their origin i.e leaf, bast, seed, stalk and grass. The Fibres from seeds are single cellular and are referred as fibers while those of the bast, stem and leaf are organised as bundles thus, called fibre bundles [8].Natural fibres mainly made compose of cellulose, lignin and hemicellulose. The Cellulose in the fiber are responsible for the inherent strength and stability of the natural fibre, while hemicellulose gives structure of the natural fibre.

Thus the natural fibers contribute to green composites. Ecological concerns have resulted in recyclability and environmental safety. Green composites are being introduced due to its biodegradability, they are decomposed by the action of microorganisms when dumped. When decomposed they get converted into H2O and CO2, which are readily absorbed by the plant systems. Green composites are classified on the basis of the type of reinforcement and polymer materials. Totally renewable composites are those in which the matrix and reinforce material are composed of renewable resources. Partly renewable composites are those in which the matrix is obtained from renewable resources and reinforced material is synthetic. Partly renewable composites are those which are composed of synthetic matrix and natural biopolymers as reinforced material [9].

39

Review of literature Coir Fiber Natural fibers are broadly classified into three segments i.e Plant fiber, Animal fiber and Mineral fiber.

The plant fiber is subdivided into blast, seed leaf stalk and fruit fiber. The animal fiber is subdivided into hair, silk and avian fiber. Similarly the mineral fiber is divided into asbestos, metal and ceramic fiber. The classification is explained in Fig. 1 Among the natural fibers, Coir is abundantly available in India, making a position of second largest in the world. It is extracted from the outer husk of coconut. The husk contains a corky tissue called firth along with water, fibres and soluble solids. Coir contains lignin which make it suitable in terms of durability. The chemical composition of coir is mentioned in Fig 2. Natural fibers consist of cellulose, hemicelluloses, lignin, pectin, water soluble substances and waxes. The composition differs from the obtained conditions and test methods. Cellulose are polysaccharide composed of D-glucopyranose units linked together by -(1-4)-glucosidic bonds. {10] Cellulose consists of a huge amount of hydroxyl group that gives the fiber hydrophilic properties.[11] Hemi cellulose has a lower molecular weight than cellulose.

They are bonded to the fibrils of cellulose with hydrogen bond. It consists of many hydroxyl and acetyl groups due to its open structure, therefore they are semi soluble in water and hygroscopic[12] Lignis have the least water sorption than the other natural fiber component. They are aromatic, amorphous and polymers of phenyl propane units[11]. Due to the hydrophilic nature of the natural fibers they often result in weak interfacial properties of fiber and polymer. Thus the matrice reduce its potential as reinforce agent. Chemical modifications are done to activate the hydroxyl group and interlock it with the matrix to enhance its properties. Such chemical coupling agents functions to react with the hydroxyl group and further react with the functional groups of the matrix.

Fig. 2 Chemical composition of Coir. | AUGUST2020

40

S U S TA I N A B L E F I B R E

The coir fiber has been used as reinforced material to make composites. Aireddy et al [13] researched on coir dust reinforced epoxy resin to test the abbersive properties. The result reveals under normal load the abrasion property increases with increase in the load and decrease with increase in coir dust concentration. S.mazan et al.

[14] studied sound absorption panels. The research included the viability of coir fibre reinforced composites in it. The composites were composed of reinforced coir fiber and polyurethane as resin.

To investigate the acoustic properties of the material, two microphone methods were used. The result showed excellent acoustic properties of the composites and proves the property of the coir fiber reinforced composites. Li et al. [15] worked on coconut fibres of length 20 and 40 mm which were untreated and alkalized respectively. Cementitious composites as reinforcement materials were used.

Impactful results were achieved on adding a low percentage of coconut fibres along with the chemical agents in the cementitious matrix. Reis [16] researched on the mechanical characterization toughness of epoxy polymer reinforced with different natural fibres. The result proves that the coconut fibre reinforced polymer had higher fracture toughness and fracture energy than that of other fibres reinforced polymer concrete.

There are many methods to create Green composites. For example filament winding, lay up methods, resin transfer moulding, injection moulding and autoclave bonding[17]. The method incorporated in this research is Lay up method/ hand lay up method.

Initially a mould is created with metal. The dimension used for making the tray is 380 mm x 255 mm.

A mould releasing agent is treated to the surface of the mould. Further the led stripe is added and the border of the composite and a thin gel coating is applied all over the surface of the mould. When the gels set, the first layer of resin or matrix material is applied. After that, the coir fiber or sheet is added on the top of the resin layer. Finally a thin layer of resin is equally added on the top of the coir fibers/ sheet layer. As shown in Fig 3. When the obtained composite becomes fully hardened, it is removed from the mould. A border of acrylic sheet is incorporated above the led, in the composite. The addition of acrylic aims to give an aesthetic look and visual impact when the light from led passes and scatters through the Acrylic sheet.

1.

Final tray

3. Material and methodology

After reaching on different parameters of coir fiber done by different researchers, a research gap was found that elaborates on amalgamation of Led lights with coir fiber reinforced polymer composite. The research aims to create a totally renewable composite restaurant tray. As there is a fusion of Led with the composite, the product fits for Restaurants having dim light arrangement The material used is Coir fiber due to its mechanical and chemical properties, resin made of derivatives of Cellulose, starch and lactic acid, a led stripe of 12 volts and a opaque acrylic sheet.

Fig. 3 Process of making the composite. | AUGUST 2020

Fig. 4 Design of the tray Future Scope and Conclusion The present research has been done, with an objective to explore the properties and potential of the Coir fiber polymer composites. The research includes different reports of the use of Coir fibers, as reinforcements in the polymer matrix. It aims at providing knowledge to enhance further research in the area of coir reinforced composite. The result obtained has excellent strength and toughness of the composite . The motive was to replace glass fiber composites. Instead of it use the natural fiber composites with good mechanical properties. Currently, it can be said that one of the most important natural fibers is coir, due to its properties and abundance.

The obtained coir reinforced polymer composites can have a wide area of application. The lignin content of the coir makes its application suitable in the areas where slow degradability is required. Thus, it

S U S TA I N A B L E F I B R E

41

can be concluded that the future of coir fiber composites are quite promising.

[2] Suchetclan Van; Philips Research Reports. 27 (1972) 28 [3] Mathews, F. L, Rawlings R .D, Engineering Composites 1 sI ed. Chapman

Future Scope and Conclusion

[4] Julia Cigasova , Nadezda Stevulova, Alena Sicakova, Jozef Junak,

The present research has been done, with an objective to explore the properties and potential of the Coir fiber polymer composites. The research includes different reports of the use of Coir fibers, as reinforcements in the polymer matrix. It aims at providing knowledge to enhance further research in the area of coir reinforced composite. The result obtained has excellent strength and toughness of the composite . The motive was to replace glass fiber composites. Instead of it use the natural fiber composites with good mechanical properties. Currently, it can be said that one of the most important natural fibers is coir, due to its properties and abundance. The obtained coir reinforced polymer composites can have a wide area of application.

The lignin content of the coir makes its application suitable in the areas where slow degradability is required. Thus, it can be concluded that the future of coir fiber composites are quite promising.

Reference [1] Kelly, A.,The nature of Composite Material, Sci. Amer. Mag. 217 (B) (1967) 161

and Hall, London, (1994)

[5]

[6]

[7]

[8]

[9]

Some Aspects of Lightweight Composites Durability, Chemical Engineering Transactions, vol 32,2013 2526 Giuseppe Cristaldi, Alberta Latteri, Giuseppe Recca and Gianluca Cicala Composites Based on Natural Fibre Fabrics, Woven Fabric Engineering, 2014 Olusegun David Samuel, Stephen Agbo, Timothy Adesoye Adekanye, Assessing Mechanical Properties of Natural Fibre Reinforced Composites for Engineering Applications, Journal of Minerals and Materials Characterization and Engineering, 2012, 11, 780-784 Eustathios Petinakis, Long Yu, George Simon and Katherine Dean Natural Fibre Bio-Composites Incorporating Poly(Lactic Acid), Fiber Reinforced Polymers - The Technology Applied for Concrete Repair, 2013 Mwaikambo, L. Y. REVIEW OF THE HISTORY, PROPERTIES AND APPLICATION OF PLANT FIBRES, African Journal of Science and Technology (AJST),Science and Engineering Series Vol. 7, No. 2, pp. 120 – 133 International Journal For Technological Research In Engineering (IJTRE) Volume 2, Issue 7, March-2015

[10] Rowell, R.M, Young, R.A, Rowell J.K, Paper and composites from agro-based resources, CRC Lewis Publishers, Boca Raton RL, (1997) 301-336

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| AUGUST2020

42

OPTICAL FIBRE

Mr. RADHA GOBINDA DAS INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

DARK LIGHT BED CANOPY CURTAINS (Optical fiber application)

ABSTRACT Begun in 2009, when Charles kao was awarded as half of the noble award for his ground breaking findings with optical fibre which was used for the transmission of light in the field of optical communication. The product serves both scientific and ethical goals with its design approach to the society which always have led a utilitarian life starting from needles to machine. The scientific goals underscore the advantages of application of optical fiber into new arena of designing products in the list of mundane objects of lifestyle of the people prefer having light while sleeping and the nyctophobic people (phobia of darkness) who asides in the domestic economy. However, the ethical goals raise serious questions about if the product is responsible for leading people an unhealthy dependent lifestyle. To achieve both ethical and scientific goals in a design perspective the closer understanding of psychology of the targeted consumer can be a very crucial part. The research is deliberated to provide an overview of textile -based home utility product with optic technology that can provide maximum degree of satisfaction and a remedy to the concerned category.

I

t’s initiated with the idea of incorporating the technology to something which has an inclusive existence in Indian society. Now, the product has taken its application canopy curtains that gives a cubical space to the consumer using the product, where the targeted consumers are the people who finds it comfortable to sleep with light and the nyctophobic people. Now as we can see in this image there is a deluxe sized luxurious canopy bed with two complimentary products that serves its functional properties at night time in darkness. So, the canopy bed was introduced not just for its decadence but for its utilitarian purpose to give warmth and privacy. But nowadays canopy beds are mostly used as a symbol of luxury and decadence as insecurity with privacy is no more faced as it used to be, in fact people have started using expensive night lamp set for getting a | AUGUST 2020

dim light effect that can be comfortable while sleeping. Now, this dark light bed canopy will cut the need for having an exclusive dim light fixture set. The curtains, have ability to provide dim light exclusively and the intensity of light will also be comfortable to human eyes, while sleeping. The third utility that this canopy bed is going to provide are its net curtains.

These netted curtains can be a blessing to a country like India is it can absolutely give safety against the mosquito bites at nights. Since, mosquito borne diseases are an important cause of illness and leads to death of many in different parts of world, including India. This can provide a renewed emphasis on preventive measures at a micro and macro levels.

The fourth reason, where it can give a stand to the “nyctophobic people”. The nyctophobic people are the people who face immediate anxiety, depression

OPTICAL FIBRE and insomnia in darkness and extreme uneasiness.

This product gives a stand to this particular category of consumers too. But then, adding up to everything the preference of light shade can significantly matter a lot to final product. The light needs to give instant relaxation almost equivalent to no light. So, that purpose we will use red light as our brain cells are less sensitive to red lights than it is to the colour blue, white or green.

43

the economy especially in the tribal, hilly and rural localities.

1. What is optical fibre? :

Figure 2: : structure of optical fibre Figure 1: https://www.amazon.in

Review of Literature The canopy bed is decorative bed which features poles at each of the four corners extending four feet high or above the mattress, the decorative fabric is often draped across upper space and a flat fabric on the top surface of the bed. The canopy bed came to existence for first time in late 19th centuries by Qing dynasty and was also used by lords and noble man in medieval Europe for warmth and privacy as their attendant sleeps in the same room. The first incandescent light bulbs were produced in 1879, initially the night lampshades were made up of paper which had the primary function to disperse light equally throughout the room without hampering the sleep of person in bedroom. During the period of queen Victoria (1837-1901) these lampshades had gained a massive evolution. These lampshades had gone through massive contemporization in 19th centuries but its availability in shops and accessibility to common man became very prevalent in beginning of 20th century. Along with traditional reasons now a day’s people are also using it for avoiding pests and mosquitos. There are other resources which says that in middle ages in medieval villages of Europe these beds were used by rich landlords and noble families for getting protection from dead wasps, rats and other pests that can fall from ill-kept thatch roof.

The structure of houses used to be a hall where the owners used to sleep along with the servants. So, in order to get privacy too it was used by the owners as the servants used to sleep on straws on the floor.

Now, Mosquito nets are used in India since 18th century. It has been used widely since ages, since now.

India is a malaria prone region. Mosquito net is a product which can be found in almost throughout

Optical fibre is a specific kind of medium and a technology that can transmit light from one source point to another end point along a strand of glass or fibre. the light travels through the medium of fibre optics in form of photons. As we, see in the diagram that light signal passes through the optical fibre by reflecting to cladding in a zig zag motion, he process is also called as “internal reflection of light”. However, the frequency of light is lost by around 30% due to the thick and denser layers of glass.

Figure 3: structure of optical fibre It was initially used for telecommunication by Alexander Graham bell and Charles tainter in 1880s in a device called photophone, after which in 1966 Charles K Kao & George Hockman discovered there is a considerable loss in light due to the contaminants that exists in the optical fibre that can be removed.

In this way the final optical fibre was manufactured for the 1st time by Corning glass works in 1970s. after which in 1975 it was used for commercial communicational purpose for the first time in 1975. It was preferred over copper because of its higher bandwidth and faster speeds, since, it doesn’t get impacted by | AUGUST2020

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OPTICAL FIBRE

electromagnetic interference, so there is not even any loss in signals.

b. Trust and respect to what they feel by concerned members

In spite of its every other benefit, there is one problem that exists in transmission of light in the purpose. Since, light laves in a straight line so, there are possibilities in loss of light in case of any bend or breakage in the optical fibre mediums.

c. Breathing and relaxation therapies

2. What is Nyctophobia?

Basically, Nyctophobia refers to the fear of darkness.

In this case, an individual experiences an extreme irrational fear in this particular act the stimulus to activates anxiety, distress, voluntary avoidance. In an absence of any visual stimuli the individual experiences uncertainty, and tension and its usually found in children but many a times its passes to their adult phase too. Now, in reality its not just the darkness that arouses their irrational extreme fear in them but the circumstance and uncertainty that darkness bring to them is what the matter of trouble for these people.

According to researchers nyctophobia can lead to insomnia. As, according to a small study on college graduates suffering from insomnia shows that moreover 50% of the individuals are undergoing through fear of darkness. The individuals were suffering from nyctophobia. Nyctophobia can be treated at any time irrespectively. Now, since there are differences in the category of fears to both different age groups.

Since children can develop such kind of fear possibilities to the factors in nature that can be irrational and unrealistic whereas on the other hand, the adults are more vulnerable to realistic and rational possibilities of fear. So, even then the treatment can vary with the age group limit. Since, children can develop the unrealistic and irrational possibilities to fear of darkness. so, it significant to take care of their confidence and trust. Now, matter of fact is that a normal adult is aware of the fact about absence of any irrational and unrealistic factors in nature e.g. monsters but its very crucial not to express this to the children. Getting more realistic to a nyctophobic child can make him embarrass of disclosure and can never be a helpful effort towards his/her treatment.

Its really crucial listen and understand them with creating a timely constant bed time session every day by the concerned members. In order for them to feel comfortable while sleeping there can always be a dim light source in their room so, that the child can have a sound sleep. Unlike children, the adults develop more rational and logical factors of fear. The fear actually has a latent effect when on adults. So, its very crucial and a time taking process. a. The adults can be provided with anxiety and fear therapies

| AUGUST 2020

d. Night lamp and soothing music e. Meditation before sleep f. Preventing scary factors as much possible g. CBT and other medical therapies by concerned doctors.

3. Which of light to use?

According to a recent survey conducted on hamsters, to red light at night had significantly less evidence of witnessing any depressive symptoms and differences in the brain which could be linked to depression, in case if we compare it in circumstances with blue or white lights. So, it is believed that the red shade at night time can be really beneficial for a sound and healthy sleep. our ipRGCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Specialized photosensitive cells, which are located in the retina of our eyes can identify any light shades and it sends the message or directions to act on the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s circadian clock. This particular set of cells regulate our bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s master clock to stay sleep or awake. When exposed to light after dark disables the body to secret any melatonin not only increases the time requirements to attain a sound sleep but also forbids the body to stay asleep. In case of red light before bed, the body produces comparatively more melatonin than if its surrounded by any artificial blue light, and that can assist you fall and stay asleep. So, when we compare different light shades it stands more sensitive to blue light and somewhat sensitive to red light.

(Zhao J., Tian Y., Nie J.,Xu J., Liu D. Journal of Athletic Training. 2012, November-December; 47(6):673-678. doi: 10.4085/1062-47.6.08) Research Gap Now, there has been many products and studies have been conducted by many organizations. Organization such as lumigram, dreamlux at their online websites. But then all these websites have to offer is luxury based products such as fashion apparels, apparel fabrics, home accessories, wall hangings collaboration with many of the global institutions. Now, dreamlux has managed to handle many projects with BMW, Nike, Microsoft, Apple, Armani, Versace, D&G, Chanel etc since 2015. Even lumigram has yet products those are constricted to luxury class fashion apparels. (source: the online websites of dreamlux and lumigram)

OPTICAL FIBRE

45

residing in tribal, hilly, difficult and inaccessible areas. But, in recent years since, even the urban and semi urban cities are getting affected with mosquito borne diseases such as dengue, chikungunya due to unplanned urbanization, industrialization and tremendous growth in population from rural to urban migration. So, mosquito nets are anyways a product for the people throughout the economy irrespective of its geographical locations. (World Health Organisation)

Figure 4: Products yet by dreamlux and lumigram Now, what we can observe that these all companies e.g. lumigram and dreamlux have launched all their products in context of Italy and niche class as their targeted market. These products definitely satisfy the luxury needs very well but these products can’t be a daily utility product in India.

The product ranges have never been designed considering the nyctophobic people, since any design like this can be such a need for them. A nyctophobic person can undergo through, bedwetting, crying, screaming, freezing, chest pain, feeling sick, fast breathing, low appetite etc when are left in darkness. so, these individuals will want their parents or someone around. The one basic thing that they anyways need will be to keep some kind of lights turned on. The good part is that it can be treated at any age irrespectively. Now, this can be done with therapies, with good timely consistent sleeping time, talking and understanding them but one thing that can always be done to them is arrangement of dim light sleeping lights. The dim light canopy curtain can always be the best comforter to both the children and adult in all different ways. The other hefty factor that can never be undermined is the shade of the light. it is recommended to use dim red lights during the sleeping hours, since the human’s brain cells are less sensitive to red than it is to the blue shade. A Medical research has recently found the sleep can be improved from therapy of red light in a host of medical trials. Recent 2018 research out of Brazil & 2013 Taiwanese study analysed patients and their electroencephalography (EEG) assessed the effects of red-light therapy and other treatments on patients who suffer from migraine headaches. Researchers found that the red-light therapy not only reduces the frequency of headaches, but also was the only treatment that improved patients’ sleep disorders. ( Harvey C., Bruce A. “Sleep Disorders and Sleep Deprivation”) Around 95% of Indians lives in malaria-prone zones, according to government sources, 80%of malaria reported in the country is confined to populations

when it comes to the context of India with every household has a preference for safety against mosquitos. So, we can easily trace this as one of the many basic products that India has to offer already. Now, along with the safety against mosquitoes, it will also provide a dimming light effect with an upper hand for a luxury look.

If we narrow down the design approach to India, this product can serve the best facilities to people as its something pre-existing in the minds of people of India can also be a boon to the nyctophobic citizens.

So, when it comes to the context of global design approach it can be a biggest gap in terms of use.

Research Material The main purpose of the product is to provide dim light in the night time and warmth in the form of a canopy bed curtain. So, to make the design a reality there are a few materials required: • Silk yarn: The idea of using silk yarn is due to its properties such as: i)

Light weight

ii)

Good insulation properties

iii)

Strong natural fiber

iv)

Most crucial that it shimmers and shines

• Optical fiber: The optical fiber is thin fiber that carries a light from one point to another. It’s used for weaving because of its flexibility, light weightiness, durability, immune to electromagnetics and absolutely no heat effect.

The optical fibre has to be necessarily similar diameter to thickness of threads used.

• LED bead light: It will be used for displaying colour nuances, showing of the fabric’s texture and weave to great effect in darkened environment but it is very relevant to add red lights to the experiment. A study was performed by experts involving hamsters suggests that blue light had worst effects on mood, followed closely by white light. It has been recommended by a researcher that surprisingly. In | AUGUST2020

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OPTICAL FIBRE

the research there were a few hamsters exposed to red light at night had significantly less evidence of depressive-like symptoms and changes in the brain linked to depression, in comparison to blue or white light.

• Mesh fabric: for better ventilation and passing of air through the canopy net.

Research Methodology For making an optical fabric mosquito net, all we need is mosquito mesh fabric along with optical fabric .

Figure 5: structure of the canopy net The structure of the net will be cubical, with a standard length of 2.75 mt and a width of 1.5 meters.

Now the top surface of the canopy will have complete ventilation so that air can properly access to the person comfortability and proper ventilation keeping mosquitoes away.

For making the fabric the warp threads have to be of 80 counts, thicker enough to build up a stronger hold and compatibility of weave with the optical fibres .

Figure 7: : weaving the fabric As, we see we need these all extended strands so that we can connect these all different sets of optical fibre to the Led lights via connectors. The Led lights preferred would strictly be of warm red, since it’s the colours that never attracts the mosquitoes to be nearer to the canopy net curtains. Another reason why we should prefer red is because our ipRGC’s Specialized photosensitive cells, which are located in the retina of our eyes can identify any light shades and it sends the message or directions to act on the body’s circadian clock. This particular set of cells regulate our body’s master clock to stay sleep or awake. So, when we compare different light shades it stands more sensitive to blue wavelengths of light and least sensitive to red wavelengths. All these led lights will be situated in the upper edge seam sack of the canopy net curtain.

Figure 8: led is out of the connector with optical fibre extensions

Figure 6: : weaving technique (source: https://optics. org) Now after our (silk threads of 80) count warp threads are fitted on the warp beam, we can plain weave our weft side with optical fibre. we can weave with always minding a 2-inch gap at a 1-inch weave of optical fibre at a regular basis. We have to leave a 4-4.5inch gap at each optical fibre inserted.

| AUGUST 2020

Figure 9: : led fitted with optical fibre via connector When the Led lights will be connected to the optical fibre strands woven as the weft via connectors. For connectors, we can use simple pvc connectors that

OPTICAL FIBRE can change shape with mere heat is applied on it.

Now, this will lead to the transmission of the ray of light in a perpendicular direction, and it will reflect and emit light to all the portions where there is a bend or twist or turns in the direction of the optical fiber.

47

Experiment

For the supply of power, the power can be provided by both portable batteries and household electricity sources. Since light is something an individual can need at any moment, so, two different sources can provide light at any emergencies irrespective of power cuts.

Figure 13: final product diagram with exit panels

Figure 10: circuit mechanism for the optical fabric Now these optical fabric straps will be all separated properly by cutting it at each regular interval of 3 inch with 1 inch seam margins at both its sides. Ultimately, these straps will be stitched properly with the mesh fabrics with decorative seams for better hold and durability of the product.

This set of canopy net curtain comes up with dividing panels that can be connected with zippers once the customer wants to get comfortable getting in the canopy net curtain set. Now, the division panels can also be tied up with contraction straps held on the curtains, especially during the day time or at any time situations when the user doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need the closed territory. The product is basically an experiment to something pre-existing or something similar existing in the Indian economy which consists of 95% of its people residing in mosquito prone areas and at the same time it also provides a solution to the nyctophobic individuals to have a sound-healthy sleep. Now the question is if the product can fit in the basic utility product list of mass or if it can even trickle down to the masses at some point of time.

The product solves the problem of providing privacy, exclusive light settings, a remedy to the people having discomfort from sleeping in darkness & safety against mosquitoes with adding a new definition of luxury and utility to the product.

Future Prospects and Area of Study 1. The fabric application can be well used in the field of travelling and trek related accessories as there is a lot of limitation in power and light resources when we go to treks.

Figure 11: seam type preferred

2. there can be research and developments be performed in the field of silicon industry to reduce the prices of the raw optical fiber.

3. It can be also introduced in wearable textile industry and the weaving part can introduce a lot more creativity in terms of weaving to get many varieties in the textures and designs.

Figure 12: seam applied to connect both mesh & optical fabric So, if everything will be performed with the recommended methodology. It can provide aptly, suitable results.

4. It can be studies in the medical field by the concerned authorities. It can be analyzed well by them in order to find out the product validation and its success in terms of acting as a remedy to the nyctophobic individuals. | AUGUST2020

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OPTICAL FIBRE

Discussion

we can say the product justifies its existence well.

The canopy net curtains is not something new to the society. In fact it’s a product of deep history belonging to 16th century. On, the other hand optical fibre is not any new invention in the world of technology, it was introduced in 1952. So, now if we have to think of its use in the world textiles can be a revolutionary idea to traditional mindsets. The process of weaving can remain all the way similar but there can be many folds of newness given to this approach in terms of its use and product ideation.

So, in the process of bringing it to the utility list of mundane product list lead to this decision. Now, since use of optical fibre has been quite an untraditional thing to Indian mindset. The approach can be injected to the daily use commodities of the economy. But to push any design into traditional mindsets its very relevant to care for the functional and aesthetics elements. Along with every other thing if we have to conclude the ethical and scientific existence, the product justifies its existence in the domestic economy. The product solves, the problem of exclusive commodities, a help in malaria endemic regions, it’s also a need for the people who prefer light while sleeping and the nyctophobic individuals. Canopy net curtains is designed to satisfy all the luxury and functional needs of the individual.

Conclusion The canopy net curtains is designed to satisfy the Indian mindsets well. The product definitely does have features to provide a solution to different problems.

It gives an inclusive combination of light and canopy with a remedy to safety against mosquitoes and a wide range of solutions for people preferring lights while sleeping on the other hand it adds a new definition of luxury with it materials. So, in other words

At, the same time we can also put light on to its obstructions that might occur. The product can use more than 200 meters of optical fibre and such a vast amount of optical fibre can lead to a very heavy expense to the production cost and thereby can cause a hindrance against its financial accessibility and affordability. So, there should be more and more investments on research and development sector on developing affordable optical fibers that can reduce its market price.

Reference 1. Nyctophobia: From Imagined to Realistic Fears of the Dark (PSICHI JOURNAL OF PSYCHOLOGICAL RESEARCH) by Joshua Levos and Tammy Lowery Zacchilli* Saint University, 2015 2. Gies, Frances & Gies, Joseph, Life in a Medieval Village (HarperPerennial, 1991), p. 93 History of canopy beds 3. Alexander Grahambell’s photophone (Wireless Optical Communications

by Olivier Bouchet) 4. Development and Evaluation on Night Forest Virtual Reality as Innovative Nyctophobia Treatment 4. Cure for nyctophobia To cite this article: E Paulus et al 2019 J. Phys.: Conf. Ser. 1235 01200 5. Red Light and the Sleep Quality and Endurance Performance of Chinese Female Basketball Players; J Athl Train. 2020 Jan. 6. Nyctophobia - Fear or Being Afraid of the Dark; Author: Disabled World; Published: 2010-10-28 7. Harvey C., Bruce A. “Sleep Disorders and Sleep Deprivation” National Academy of Sciences. 2006, Bookshelf ID: NBK19960. doi: 10.17226/11617 5. Zhao J., Tian Y., Nie J., Xu J., Liu D. “Red light and the sleep quality and endurance performance of Chinese female basketball players” Journal of Athletic Training. 2012, November-December; 47(6):673-678. doi: 10.4085/1062-47.6.08 6. statistics on malaria; World Health Organisation; National Vector Borne Disease Control Programme, Government of India

Innovative designs and Print services provide Graphic Design, Textile dsign/pattern design, fashion Illustrations.

Email- tvcmedia.digital@gmail.com

| AUGUST 2020

CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE

Ms. SHRUTIRUPA PATI INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

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MICROWAVABLE HEATING PAD WITH FENUGREEK SEEDS AND RICE GRAIN FILLING

ABSTRACT The objective of this research was to verify the feasibility of the use of fenugreek seeds (Trigonella foenumgraecum) and rice grains (Oryza sativa) mixture for the filling of a microwavable heating pad. Research objectives were primarily focused on finding an appropriate, effective and convenient material for soothing inflammation in muscles or joints and a mixture of fenugreek seeds and rice grains came out to be one of the solutions for the stuffing of the heating pad. Microwavable heating pad contains solid organic particulates that are solid at room temperature. The contents can be heated by microwave radiation. The solid particles act as a reusable heat reservoir to release heat over an extended period or absorb ambient heat and serve as temporary pain relievers. Fenugreek seeds possess flavonoids and fatty acids which have anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties that work wonders in treating the pain. Rice grains increase blood circulation and ease tensed muscles. Once heated, the rice holds a large quantity of heat and can produce heating for several hours and the heating pad is reusable and washable as well.

C

onductive textile materials donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t usually react to their environment, but they create many smart applications possible in textiles, especially those that monitor body functions. They are widely employed in smart textile applications including sensors, heating textiles and electrostatic discharge clothing. Heat conducting fabrics in textiles are used significantly for various purposes and one of the foremost important uses is in heating pads.

1.1 Heat therapy and orthopaedic problems Many elderly people tend to dismiss joint pain and body aches as a part of ageing and mostly prefer

self-medication. But this untreated pain can become chronic and greatly affects their quality of life. Common causes of aches and pains in older people includes arthritis as the major problem. Arthritis may be a condition strongly related to age, also a couple of comprehensive studies so far have examined how arthritis affects the oldest oldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;those aged 85 years and older, who will number 3.3 million within the UK by 2033. The common sorts of aches and pains affecting elderly people includes joint pain and inflammation within the fingers, knees, , lower back pain, neck pain and nerve pain. Heat provides relaxation, comfort, and reassurance, and taking the pain off several sorts of body pain, mostly protracted pains related to stiffness, cramping, and/or sensitivity, which may be loosely categorized as:

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Acute soreness from over-exertion

Stiffness and pain in particular areas which are associated with osteoarthritis, muscle “knots” or trigger points, and most sorts of cramping/spasm (menstrual, neuropathic, restless leg syndrome, for instance, or maybe just stiffness from postural stress). An easy, effective, and inexpensive way to treat arthritis-related aches and pains is by applying heat or cold to the affected joints. Heat therapy is a simple, inexpensive, and medication-free thanks to relieve some sorts of arthritis stiffness and pain.

1.2 How does heat therapy work?

Heat therapy can encourage the healing of damaged tissue as the warmth causes the blood vessels of the muscles to dilate slowly, which increases the flow of oxygen and nutrients to the muscles. It decreases joint stiffness. Warmth increases the pliability of the muscles and animal tissue, which increases joint flexibility and reduces joint stiffness. Heat stimulates joint fluid. Warming the joint, followed by gentle bending and flexing, can spur joint fluid (synovial fluid) production, which increases joint lubrication and therefore the delivery of nutrients to joint tissue. It distracts the brain from the pain because the comforting warmth can stimulate sensory receptors within the skin and reduce the transmissions of pain signals to the brain.

•Heat is reassuring, and reassurance is analgesic. this is often applied neurology, not just a psychological effect.

•Heat can penetrate a few centimetres inside the tissue and cells after which the biochemistry speeds up when the tissue temperature rises, which could have therapeutic implications.

•Heat may influence the common painful phenomenon referred to as “trigger points.” A trigger point may be a small patch of acutely sensitive soft tissue, a poorly understood little patch of sensory misery. However, they work, nobody doubts that these sensitive spots in muscle are common. they will cause anything from stiffness and dull aching to show-stopping agony. The pain often spreads in confusing patterns, and that they grow like weeds around other painful problems and injuries, making them interesting and tricky and incredibly common. and warmth seems to be a very good therapy for trigger points.

2. Review of literature 1.1 Different Types of Heating Pads | AUGUST 2020

A hot pad may be a pad used for warming of parts of the body to manage pain. Localized application causes the blood vessels therein area to dilate, enhancing perfusion to the targeted tissue.

1. Electric hot pad They come in small, medium, large, and extra-large. they’re available in both moist and dry heat options, have easy to use controls, and lots of have an auto-shut off feature. Many accompany washable covers, and warrantees. In an electrical hot pad one can control how long he want to use the hot pad, and lots of have variable temperature settings.

2. Microwavable Heating Pad Microwavable heating pads are a hybrid of the disposable patches and therefore the electrical pads.

Many of them have a double role as cooling pillows.

They’re usually in a small pillow or packet form, and crammed with gel, rice, or other heat-retaining material. Simply pop them within the microwave and warmth to the specified temperature, then apply to the affected area.

3. Chemical Heating Pad Disposable chemical pads employ a one-time exothermic reaction. It is frequently used for hand warmers. It is initiated by unwrapping an air-tight packet or container having moist iron powder and salt or catalysts which rusts over a period of hours after being exposed to oxygen within the air.

It helps to appease sore muscles or joints after heavy work or exercise. Heat therapy tends to scale back muscle spasms and causing it to relax. Ice has also been used as how of preventing inflammation and swelling of injured areas of a body. The physiological benefits of warmth therapy are numerous. the foremost important aspect of warmth therapy is that when heat is applied, the blood vessels expand which brings more circulation to the affected area and this increases the power of blood flow to the painful areas. These blood vessels allow blood and oxygen to flow more readily to the sore areas and a rise of nutrients and oxygen at the cellular level which aids in removing waste products that result from inflammation. Doctors sometimes recommend using these microwavable heating pads for relief from menstrual cramps or tract infections.

2.2 Microwavable Heating Pad with fenugreek seeds and rice as filling A microwavable heating pad is a pad that is used by

CONDUCTIVE TEXTILE placing it in a microwave oven and heating it before use. These heating pads are basically made out of a thick insulative fabrics, for e.g. Flannel and are filled with grains such as wheat, buckwheat, corn or flax seed. As they are relatively simple to make, they are frequently sewn by hand, often with a custom shape to fit the intended area of use.

Microwavable heating pads have been used in the treatment of muscular and joint problems for many years, and the benefits of either the heat in the treatment of such problems has been known for quite some time. In the past, similar hot packs were encased entirely in towels or other fabrics with no other exterior protective cover. Generally, the packs tend to cool in a relatively short time due to evaporation through the towels and other effects, which requires their reheating and dehumidifying for continued treatment.

Grains and seeds like wheat berries, dried corn, pot barley, rice, walnut etc. can be used as fillings for the microwavable heating pad as these grains have heat retaining capacity and some medicinal properties. Heating packs can also be made by filling a container with a material that has a high specific heat capacity, which slowly releases the heat over time.

A hot water bottle is a common example of this type of heating pad.

Fenugreek seeds are always considered to have anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antioxidant properties from ancient times as they possess flavonoids and fatty acids that work wonders in treating the pain. A mixture of fenugreek seeds and rice grains when filled together in the heating pad can give benefits to people suffering from joint pain and inflammation. Also, one of the benefits of the heating pad is that it can be micro waved repetitively and there will be no bad odour as it has its own aromatic properties if an optimum amount of heat is applied.

1.3 How long should heat be applied?

Application time depends on where the pain is found. To be effective, the warmth must penetrate down into the affected muscles and joint tissues.

Short sessions will warm only the skin and not the affected tissues. Minor to moderate pain in joints on the brink of the skin’s surface, like the ankle or elbow, many only require 15 to twenty minutes of the heat therapy. For more intense or deeper injuries, like moderate to severe arthritis within the hip or lower back, sessions or half-hour or maybe longer could also be beneficial.

3. Research gap There has been many products and different types of

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heating pads introduced in the market.

With fillings like buckwheat, corn, rice etc have been used since awfully long. Fenugreek seeds have many authentic pain-relieving properties used since ancient times. But then it is maybe in the form of oil or powder or their leaves. Fenugreek seeds when heated release chemicals which are considered to have anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties. So, I am using fenugreek seeds as the filling for the heating pad. Along with-it rice is also used because of its excellent heat retaining properties and good aroma.

4. Materials and Methodology Fleece fabric for the pad, cotton fabric for cover fenugreek seeds and rice are the key materials for the construction of a microwavable heating pad.

Fleece fabric acts as a good heat conducting material and rice and fenugreek seeds are the fillings for the pas as they have good heat retaining properties.

Also, there are other benefits of fenugreek seeds too in relieving the joint pain.

Figure 3. Filling the pad with fenugreek seeds and rice To construct the pad, we need to follow these steps: a. Selecting fabric I will use fleece fabric for one side and cotton on the other side. The fleece is thicker so it perfectly traps the heat which is nice, especially when it just comes out of the microwaves. The cotton fabric on the other side can be a little warm for some time but it gradually cools down. b. Cut and sew the fabric in the size and shape we want.

After cutting out a rectangle each of cotton and fleece, sew around the edges leaving about 1/4” inch seam allowance. Also leave an inch or two open on one side so that we can fill pouch with fenugreek seeds and rice (about 1/2 to 3/4 full. I am taking the dimensions 10” × 8” as this is the perfect size to be applicable in any part of the body. | AUGUST2020

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Figure 2. Sewing the fabric to make a pouch 5. Product design c. Add rice and fenugreek seeds and sew the bag from the other side.

Figure 3. Filling the pad with fenugreek seeds and rice For the removable cover, sew the cotton fabric into a size a little bigger than the pad and leaving an open end and closing it by adding a strip of Velcro. It is like the â&#x20AC;&#x153;pillowcaseâ&#x20AC;? idea. And whenever we need to heat the pad, we need to make sure to remove the cover. For the directions to use, heat the pad for 1 to 3 minutes, depending on size.

Figure 4. Sewing the opening side of the pad d. Heating the pack in a microwave Keep the pad in a microwave for 3-4 minutes. Not extending the time more than this otherwise it can lead to burning of the fabric and fenugreek seeds.

And the microwavable heating pad is ready to use.

Figure 4. Keeping the pack in microwave | AUGUST 2020

Figure 5. Final product loo

6. Discussion and conclusion

Heating therapy has been around since ancient times. There is also plenty of scientific research that confirms the efficacy of thermotherapy. Microwavable heating pads might not cure the disease but helps in giving the temporary relief to the pain and mitigate the acute symptoms hence contributing its part in that. Heat therapy is useful in ortho diseases like arthritis, fibromyalgia, muscle spasms and musculoskeletal injuries, lower back pain, cramps, and even mental health. Warm temperature elicits vasodilatation, stimulate blood flow, and oxygenate muscle tissues; all these processes are crucial components in alleviating the pain related to these diseases. Microwavable heating pads are excessively used for body pains after heavy exercise, lower back pain, menstrual cramps and some gel packs are used for beauty purposes as well. There are some relevant ways to maintain a heating pad like temperature control, removing the cover before putting it into microwave, maintaining hygiene keeping the products dry as the seeds inside can give a typical

FA S H I O N M A N A G E M E N T smell if kept moist for long hours. There are several concerns and issues we should keep on mind regarding the safety while using heating pads. These issues range from getting burned to more serious ones like being electrocuted by the improper use of heating pads. So, keeping the safety measures in mind microwavable heating pads with fenugreek seeds and rice grain filling can act as the perfect authentic and safe way to relieve acute pain and soreness.

References 1. Michael Schnoor, US20040102823A1, Wax filled heating pad, 2003 2. H. Mattila, in Textiles and Fashion, Yarn to Fabric, 2015, 3. Anne McCoy Matt Tijan US20070267398A1, Induction Heating of Footwear

Ms. HETAL MISTRY

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and Apparel, 2007 4. Steven D. Waldman MD, JD, in Pain Review, The Physiologic Effects of Therapeutic Heat, 2009 5. Leslie B. Anderson, US5150707A United States, Absorbent assembly for use as a thermal pack, 1990 6. Beverly J. Crews, US4886063A, United States, Reusable therapeutic device, 1988 7. Israel Dvoretzky, John E. Kuleza, US5534021A United States, Heating pad for providing heat therapy, 1994 8. Adrian Neville Fellows, WO1997041814A1 WIPO (PCT), A heat pack, 1996 9. Neville Fellows Adrian, GB2563375A 2017 United Kingdom ,A thermal pack, 2017

Mrs. ANJU TULSHYAN

B.SC IN TEXTILES AND APPAREL DESIGN

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR

SVT COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE

SVT COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE

A ROAD MAP TO BOUTIQUE MANAGEMENT

ABSTRACT Every Person wants to wear bright, trendy and diverse clothes of their choice and want to look the most beautiful person in the world. This has given rise to Clothing Boutique Business in the world. Opening a Clothing Boutique is a dream for many women who want to stand on their own feet and feel the freedom of financial independence and the joy of owning a business. The management of boutiques is a well-researched topic.

There is no formula to success but there are techniques that could help run the boutique and actually grow and be profitable. From past few decades we have seen that a lot of boutiques go out of business because of lack of proper guidance and experience, legal aspects, commencement set up, local competition, online business, promotional tools selection and many other factors. The objective of this study is to learn, review and list down the essential steps that are to be followed for the smooth and successful running of the boutique.

This review paper is an attempt to give a road map to starting a boutique.

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FA S H I O N M A N A G E M E N T

Clothing boutique management is a hot topic in textile and fashion world. This review paper explores the widely seen fashion boutique operations in the domain of management. A boutique is a small retail shop selling clothes/ fabric/accessories and other goods to a specific segment of the market. In French, word boutique is regarded as “haute couture”; Haute means “high” or “elegant.” Couture literally means “sewing,” but has come to indicate the business of designing, creating, and selling custom-made, high fashion women’s clothes or ‘high dressmaking’. Boutique can be defined as a small shop selling fashionable clothes or accessories. It is easy to start, is manageable and requires comparatively small amount of capital to start, engages the creativity and passion of the owner to a great extent.

In today’s competitive business world there is a good deal of demand for the guidelines on how to commence and set up a business. There are a few tips on how to survive, smoothly run a boutique and be successful.

Boutique Planning : There are 4 types of boutique in terms of the way they stock goods. Decide on the Unique Selling Point (USP) i.e. The purpose of your business, current trends in terms of colour, style and your client. There are different types of boutiques as given below Location Selection Location is one of the most important factors in deciding the success of your store.

Choosing the location depends on the budget. There are many factors to be considered while selecting the locationz 1. Availability of raw materials : If you intend running a production unit, then the nearness or availability of raw materials is a factor you must consider while choosing the business location. If your business is not close to the raw materials, then sourcing and transportation will add on tothe cost.

2. Proximity to market : The next important factor to consider is the nearness of your business to its customers.

3. Availability of basic infrastructure : Availability of basic infrastructure such as near to airport, railway station, etc. can affect your choice of small business location.

4. Economic policy : The economic policy or system such as taxes- GST, CST, etc. of a particular region may also affect your decision and choice of location.

5. Demographics : Demographics as a factor can have a big influence on your choice of business location e.g. type of product, service or the type of customers.

6. Psychographics : The mindset of your customers or the aura of a particular region is also a factor to | AUGUST 2020

entrepreneurs may decide to site their business in industrial areas or clusters due to the infrastructure and amenities already on ground.

8. Channel of distribution : The more you make it easier for your distributors to access your products, the better for your business.

9. Self -Owned/ Rented Property : Once the location is finalised one need to decide on property ownership i.e. self -owned or rented depending on our capital investment for the business. Once the Location is finalised prepare a Leave and License Agreement and complete the stamp duty and registration formalities eighter for purchase or rented properties as the case may be. For online registration of rent agreement in Maharashtra*Go to the e-filing (https://efilingigr.maharashtra.gov.in/ereg/) website.

Evaluate the competition [4] by doing a swot analysis. SWOT analysis is a strategic planning technique used to help a person or organization identify their Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats relating to business competition or project planning.

Defining a business plan [4]: Decide on the name of your boutique. Brand name is the marketing practice of creating a name, symbol or design that identifies and differentiates a product from other product. Define the mission and primary goals of the business.

Then document every detail related to making your business successful, like costs, staff, inventory, supplies, marketing, and more. The more detailed and granular you get with your plan, the better prepared you’ll be moving forward. Pricing strategy [7]: Apparel companies can employ a number of pricing strategies to differentiate their brand and gain competitive advantages in the marketplace. Understanding your business cost structure and choosing the right pricing strategy are crucial steps toward achieving your profit goals. The mark-up on cost can be calculated by adding a pre-set, often industry standard, profit margin percentage to the cost of the merchandise. Consumers have many choices and are generally willing to shop around to get the best price. Retailers considering a competitive pricing strategy, need to provide outstanding customer service to stand above the competition.

Economy pricing aims to attract the most price-conscious of consumers. With this strategy, businesses minimize the costs associated with marketing and production in order to keep product prices down.

Designed to help businesses maximize sales on new products and services, price skimming involves setting rates high during the introductory phase. Many consumers seek low prices when shopping for apparel. In the luxury tier of the market, consumers&#39; price sensitivity often is more closely correlated with

FA S H I O N M A N A G E M E N T a brand&#39;s image rather than inherent product quality or market value. Apparel products are closely tied with self- expression and social status in consumers minds, so consumers in this segment are often more concerned with the social image of their apparel than its durability of the quality of material The value pricing strategy sits somewhere between the budget and luxury segments. Price promotions can be an effective means of increasing sales and customer loyalty for any pricing strategy in this industry. Open a business account with bank [9]: Start a business current account with a bank &amp; a merchant account with ability to process credit/ debit card transactions is a necessity especially if you will be allowing transactions other than cash.

The minimum balance for Normal Current Account is Rs. 10,000. This will help to increase sales of the store as now a day’s people are more use to for using cards for shopping. Appoint the best craftsmen andemployees [9] Interview and hire /appoint the best Craftsmen &amp; employees if you need more help.

Layout of the Boutique [2]: Furnish and lay out your boutique in a way that flows well. The store decor is an important element in making people feel whether they should buy from your store or not. Colours you use inside the store, shelf and storage layout all are contributing factors to buying decision Customers should be able to shop freely. Create a clean, inviting storefront [5] to draw in customers. Window displays, ample lighting, or potted plants, boutique’s theme, boutique design for the storefront are the main attractions for customers. Change up window displays once every 2 weeks to create visual interest and attract new customers. Your storefront is the first impression customers get of your boutique.

Dress forms or mannequins can display your clothes attractively in the store front and attract buyers/ passers-by. Greet the customers as soon as they enter the store, give them personal attention, ask to help them to assist in choosing the option for buying the best, try to connect with them. Launch your boutique [1]: It&#39;s now time for you to open your boutique and start making sales. Get the word out that your boutique is opening. Try to get local media coverage. Invite peoples from all fields to be presence in your boutique opening. Design &amp; print the invitation cards for opening ceremony of the boutique. Use social media accounts also to invite people for opening ceremony and to launch our new collection to them. Operational procedures of your store [16]: Plan proper policies for day-to-day busi-

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ness activities, for record keeping, regarding how to use the cash register; how to maintain the cash flow, system to manage your inventory, etc. Hire experienced staff train them well for all store and sales promotion strategies such as how-to greet a customer, store customer records, how to deal with customers to make them buy the products, etc. Plan the refund policy for goods purchased and returned by customers. Arrange for an alteration unit. Also, the sewing tools. need to be arranged for smooth running of the business operations. Further, the administration items such as CCTV, store entrance security systems, coffee vending machine, clothing security tags, packing material, carry bags, gift rappers, Point-ofSale System (POS) to be arranged for maintaining operation system of the boutique. Meet a Chartered Accountant (CA) to determine the viability of your business plan.They will guide us on how much to invest in business, for Assets liabilities of the business.

Also books that is to be prepared for accounting of the business e.g. Purchase book, Sales book, Bank book, Cash book, etc. When &amp; how to make payments of taxes.

Conclusion : Today, the popularity of online shopping is growing especially with regards to fashion products but the traditional retail stores are still highly popular in India. There are so many brands that have their boutiques in various places with more shopping options.

Setting up of boutique in this competitive business world and to make profitable business is another challenging task. The availability of this road map will help the start-ups to move in right direction to establish his boutique business. All these operational procedures are mentioned after discussion and understanding it with industrial experts. These operational procedures will lead you to become a successful business entrepreneur.

References [1]https://sewguide.com/how-to-start-a-boutique-business/.

[2] https://www.shopify.in/blog/retail-boutique-business.

[3] https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7430345 [4] Apparel Merchandising, By Rosenau,Jeremya Wilson David L, Fairchild Publication.

[5] Developing &amp; Branding, By Bubonia-clarke, Janace Borcherding Phyllis, Fairchild Publication.

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WITH U.S COTTON TRUST PROTOCOL, BRANDS AND RETAILERS CAN NOW SOURCE U.S COTTON WITH MORE CONFIDENCE The Trust Protocol brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurements

Mr. KRAIPOB PANGSAPA www.cottonusa.org

EMAIL- Kpangsapa@cotton.org www.trustuscotton.org

Starting today, brands and retailers can join the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a new system for responsibly grown cotton that will provide annual data for six areas of sustainability in line with the U.N. Sustainability Goals. This year-over-year data, available for the first time, will allow brands and retailers to better measure progress towards meeting sustainability commitments.

“One of our goals in developing the Trust Protocol is to give brands and retailers greater confidence when including U.S. cotton in their sourcing mix,” said Ken Burton, Executive Director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “Participating brands and retailers will now be able to demonstrate measurable progress in reducing their environmental footprint and in achieving sustainability targets.”

The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. By working with Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture and Control Union Certifications North America, the Trust Protocol enables brands and retailers to better track the cotton entering their supply chain. Brands who become members of the Trust Protocol will have access to aggregate year-over-year data on water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon and land use efficiency.

“At Levi Strauss & Co., the quality and sustainability of the cotton we use is critical to our business and important to our customers. We are deeply committed to sourcing sustainable cotton and reducing water usage, carbon emissions, and chemical usage,” said Liza Schillo, Senior Manager, Global Sustainability Integration, Levi Strauss & Co. and Trust Protocol Board Member. “We are therefore in strong support of the introduction of standards – including the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol – that champion sustainably grown cotton and drive wider adoption over the long-term of sustainable cultivation practices.”

The Trust Protocol is a complement to existing sustainability programs and is designed from the ground up to fit the unique cotton mass-growing environment of the United States.

In April, the Trust Protocol was added to Textile Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibers and materials that more than 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program. | AUGUST 2020

B R A N D U P DAT E

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35 Years of Continuous Improvements Over the past 35 years, U.S. cotton has made significant improvements in growing cotton responsibly.

To continue the progress, the Trust Protocol has ambitious national goals for 2025. By this date, the Trust Protocol aims to have more than half of all U.S. cotton production included in the program.

“Achieving a transition towards agricultural sustainability requires broad public and private partnerships and a vital part of my work at The Nature Conservancy includes looking at ways to collaborate with key agricultural stakeholders,” said Dr. Kris Johnson, Deputy Director of Agriculture, The Nature Conservancy, North American Region and U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Board Member. “Informed by science-based targets, the Trust Protocol provides evidence of and encourages continuous improvements in U.S. cotton production.”

For more information, please visit https://TrustUsCotton.org, and visit us on social media.

About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol In a period of ever greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol will set a standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to the issue of responsibly-grown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics.

The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union Certifications.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

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