SEPTEMBER 2020 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 9 | ₹ 100 | PAGES 60

SSN NO: 2278-8972 |

RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707

VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 9 | RS 100 | Pages 60

SEPTEMBER 2020

VOLUME 8 | ISSUE NO. 9 | ₹ 100 | PAGES 60 ISSN NO : 2278-8972 ISSN NO: 2278-8972 | RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707

VOCAL FOR LOCAL

RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707

www.textilevaluechain.in

VOCAL FOR LOCAL SEPTEMBER 2020 VOCAL SEPTEMBER 2020 FOR LOCAL

OSTAL REGISTRATION NO.No. MNE/346/2018-20 PUBLISHED EVERYmonth. MONTH. Postal Registernation MNE/346/2018-20 PublishedON on5TH 5th OF of every EXTILE VALUE CHAIN POSTED AT MUMBAI, PATRIKA CHANNEL SORTING TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at mumbai, Patrika channel sorting FFICE, PANTNAGAR, GHATKOPAR-400075. Posting date 18/19 of month OSTING DATE 18/19 OF MONTH POSTAL REGISTRATION NO. MNE/346/2018-20 PUBLISHED ON 5TH OF EVERY MONTH. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN POSTED AT MUMBAI, PATRIKA CHANNEL SORTING OFFICE, PANTNAGAR, GHATKOPAR-400075.

COTTON MAKES FOR C O V E R

STORY

CLEANER OCEANS.

With every load of laundry, potentially harmful microfibers are released. A study by expert Andrew Jordan found that cotton is better for the environment because, unlike synthetics, cotton microfibers degrade rapidly and naturally. COTTON USA â&#x201E;˘ believes whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better for the world is better for your business. Learn more at cottonusa.org/expert-outlooks

| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

22-26 JUNE 2021 www.itmexhibition.com /itm2021

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Download ITM 2021 App Store & Google Play

COVER STORY

| SEPTEMBER 2020

C O N T E N T PA G E

CONTENTS COVER STORY

08 “Vocal for Local”- a Swadeshi Movement for 10 Next Generation Manufacturing #VOCALFORLOCAL...except for the 13 handloom sector? 15 Campaign for A Better india Hit by The Pandemic, Standing for 17 #VocalForLocal 20 Local Is Luxury

21 “GREEN NEW DEAL”: A Paradigm Shift 24 For The Textile Industry

A Master Strategy in Making…Vocal for Local!!!

SUSTAINABILITY

Clothing from Cocona Fibre

SURAT REPORT

Surat Textile Industry Revival Post Lockdown-need For Improved Labour Availability

YARN REPORT

48 49 54

Basic Textile Exports Up In August But Loses Tempo

ECONOMIC ANALYSIS Sectoral Economic Analysis

ACTIVEWEAR Business Opportunity in Activewear Fabrics

BRAND UPDATE

New COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ Consultancy Program Enables Businesses to Achieve More

ADVERTISER INDEX Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : Tuffplast Front Inside : Rimtex Page 3 : Cotton USA Page 4 : ITM Page 5 : Lakshmi Caipo

HR UPDATE

Students Know Your Industry

ORGANIC FABRICS

Organic Fabrics: Need Of A Safe Environment

FROM NEED TO AESTHETIC

- A Journey From The Need To The 35 Masks Grandeur

APPAREL FOR DIABLED

36 40

Mr. Avinash Mayekar

Mrs. Vidya Thakur

Mr. N. D. Mhatre

Mr. Manoj John

Ms. Sunaina Khetan

Ms. Dhara Padia

Ms. Navneeta MS

Ms. Aparna Sardar

Ms. Nabarupa Bose

Ms. Mansi Gautam

Ms. Nafeesah Ahmed

Mr. Padmanaban .P

Influence Of Modified Yarn Path With Mechanical Compacting System To Improve Spinning Efficiency

Ms. Bhavya Srivastava

Dr. Ela Dhedia

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra

Mr. Ashish Gujarati

WEBINAR- NIRMALA NIKETAN COLLEGE

Mr. Anup Goswami

Mr. Nitin Madkaikar

International WebinarSustainable Materials And Processes

Mr. B.Basu

Ms. Vridhi Bhagnari

Ms. Swati Patali

Mr. Bruce Atherleyz

A Sight Of No Vision

WASTE MANAGEMENT Adidas’ Partnership with Parley For The Oceans

MACHINERY

43 45

CONTRIBUTERS

| SEPTEMBER 2020

EDITORIAL

Global and Local Supply Chains

SUBSCRIPTION Digital + Print Copy issue 1 Year : 12 issues : Rs. 800 2 Years : 24 issues : Rs. 1500 3 years : 36 issues : Rs. 2100 Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/

‘Globalization’, ‘Global Supply Chains’, ‘Global Village’, we hear these terms frequently about our Planet Earth; which has its own journey of evolution from Local to Global. Mankind has explored different countries of the planet earth for trade, travel, communication, exchange of needs/wants through various mediums. This has led mankind to exchange, movement with free will. Covid 19 pandemic has shifted the focus from Global to local; to protect and safeguard their own population by restricted physical movement and trade. Markets and Supply chains have been disrupted; leading to search of shorter supply chains. The trend observed is that neighbouring Countries coming to together and supplying to their own Country and Continent, like UK –Europe- Africa, North -South America, Asian Countries etc. Globally each of the Countries started the movement of #vocalforlocal. Government supports Local movement but it also supports FDI’s. There is a clear indication that without being Global, a Country cannot survive. In Local, Retail is distorted, there in new channel consumer is exploring like buying from Reseller (home entrepreneur), social media, e-commerce, many more. India celebrates the festival and wedding season as larger than life. So a few clothing categories like wedding wear, festival collection of garments have some advantage of physical buying. Lack of knowledge of the properties of diferent fibers, fabrics which are mentioned in description on the new channels, Consumer still prefer to feel and touch the garment before buying. This will help sustain physical retail as compared to others. Retailers, manufactures need to make their strong presence in the new channels; apart from traditional channels to generate leads and branding. Wish you fruitful Festival and Wedding Season… !

JIGNA SHAH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

Subscription enquiry +91. 9867594758 ; magazine.tvcindia@gmail.com Advertising and Collaboration enquiry +91.9769442239 ; tvcmedia2012@gmail.com

EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Mr. Swaminathan

CREATIVE DESIGNER Ms. Ayman Satopay

REGISTERED OFFICE Innovative Media and Information Company 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 / +91. 9860634305 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

OWNER, PUBLISHER, PRINTER AND EDITOR -MS. JIGNA SHAH Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

A Master Strategy in Making… Vocal for Local!!! Avinash Mayekar MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

pandemic, most of the countries egized to make its hard work be reeople are always behind sealed their borders to take care of warded. The short falling of brandmaking their status in the society, their own citizens. This has emerged ing labels is being recognized & the brands of goods hold a great as a great responsibility towards the master canvas of the “Make value in the minds of people. Glob- our own country. From fashion in India” label was introduced by ally, Polo, Ralf Lauren, Diesel, Calvin point of view, international brands the government. Personally, I conKlein, Gucci, Nike, Hugo Boss, Dolce from USA, Europe etc. upscale the sidered it as the first stroke on the and Gabbana & Armani etc. are the wardrobes and add value to their master canvas. The lack of overall top men’s clothing brands where- status. It’s this very psychology that individual labels was uplifted to be as for women Gucci, Herour strength by branding mes, Prada, Chanel, Ralf it as made in India. GivLauren, Burberry, House ing brand recognition to of Versace, Fendi, etc. are our unlabeled products. popular brands. “Everything is in a Name…Brand is all that we hear The Quality, reputation & loyalty all key factors of All said & done these are & wear!!!” marketing are associatstatus symbols and each ed with this “Brand” creindividual has it’s choice ations. The global market & liking, similarly, the saw a new face of India brands have their own to be a superpower well unique features and pohas driven many Indian textile busiequipped as a manufacturing hub. sitioning in the market. However, during recent COVID-19 pandemic ness houses to have westernized The campaign of Make in India saw we realized that all our needs were labels. These are the marketing multiple international investments fulfilled by our own Indian players trends. Most of these brands like and brands and a great level of re- Raymond, Peter England, American sponsible citizenship of our mother Swan, Allen Solly, Hidesign, Louis India was observed. Especially in Philippe, Flying Machine, Spykar, case of medical textiles such as PPE etc. have aced their branding. The kits, masks, etc. were produced by recent era has however seen brandour textile players only under so- ing of Indian traditions with brands cial obligation towards our Indian like “Manyavar” focusing on the ethcitizens. From almost nothing we nic collections & localizing its use became number 2 in the world for on festivities as well as on a casual Sundays. production of medical textiles. Figure 1: Manyavar brand groom squad In recent years however the game I think post COVID-19 era would be is changing. The country has stratcollection, source: internet more for local. We have seen during | SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY in the country & the brand creation of India began. #Vocal for Local is yet another brilliant masterstroke to India’s branding strategy. The pandemic situation & the shortcomings of businesses have created one fine stroke in this canvas of branding. Simple 2 words which on observations seem to be far away from branding our local businesses. Being the voice means presenting a trust factor, recognition & loyalty for quality products from a local source. All these efforts are made so that the local reaches the International markets. All these efforts are all targeted so that the brand creation is established by the Indian players. Using the wave of Internet sensation to create the brand strategy of all the manufacturers. This strategy plays with our strength the population by utilizing it to create the promotion for all the deserving product basket of our country. It is not just a movement to make India ‘Aatma Nirbhar’ self-reliant, it comes with a complete package outlaying several measures for MSMEs considering the priority to local brands. The tweet #vocalforlocal led to a wave of changes across the country opting for local resources. People are now looking out for manufacturing details on every product they purchase from the FMCG industry to the electronics industry. Welspun & Trident are the top home textiles brands of the country. Both are prominent terry towel producers of the world and have expanded their product portfolio.

Aditya Birla Group’s Birla Cellulose is a World leader in Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF) and has a commendable position with major world market share. They have done a strategic forward integration with their “Liva brand” which is the success story showcasing how a non-direct customer commodity branding is also critically essential. Customers now look for Liva on their end product making the name of a fiber engrossed in the customer’s mind through the fabric.

functional textiles & its forecasted demand for our own country’s developing needs in terms of infrastructure, health & infrastructure planning along with the global demand for these high-end products. Under Union Budget 2020-21, a National Technical Textiles Mission is proposed for a period from 2020-21 to 2023-24 at an estimated outlay of Rs 1,480 crore (US$ 211.76 million). This is our time to grab the market & develop the branding of Make in India.

All these companies have encored the importance of branding and are today reaping the profits of their branding efforts. It is now time to encash on the opportunities created by the government and make a label that gets engrossed for years to come.

For Textiles & Apparels business many new initiatives are created to make local go global by India. The Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) has revised rates for incentives under the Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) for two subsectors of the Textiles Industry - readymade garments and made-ups - from two percent to four percent. The Government of India has taken several measures including Amended Technology Up-gradation Fund Scheme (A-TUFS), estimated to create employment for 35 lakh people and enable investment worth Rs 95,000 crore (US$ 14.17 billion) by 2022.

The current situation after the COVID-19 setback, is showing some promising results. It is considered to start a Boom Time for Textile Industry as global apparel firms shift orders to India from China. German leisure wears brand Marc O’Polo has placed a huge order for Jerseys to its Indian vendor Warsaw International. The product was earlier being supplied by the German garment firm’s Chinese vendor. The United States-based Carter, once the largest babywear brand in the world, also wants to shift its significant portion of its business from China to India. It has asked Tamil Nadu based SP Apparels to work on developing a new fabric using man-made fibers. Many such positive indications are expected in Post COVID-19 era. Summary: Apart from creating a branding strategy for India “Vocal for local”, “Atmanirbhar India- self-reliant”. The importance of the development of

Figure 3: Aditya Birla Liva Brand, source: website

It is now time to create a brand that is voiced by people with the measures of delivering a product that remains consistent on its quality parameters. Nowadays, the digital world can make a Brand grow & blossom from local to international. The time has come to adopt innovative marketing techniques in the global as well as domestic markets. Understanding strength of our “local” market for which we need to be “vocal” and time is not that far when most of the global brands will queue up themselves to come to India and that’s the master stroke of “Vocal for Local” so that those who would like to cater to Indian | SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

customers have to come to “Atmanirbhar India.” India is all set to stage a platform through innovative marketing skills of encashing on our huge popu-

lation and asking them to be “Atmanirbhar” and demanding “Vocal for Local.” Let us take a thread from

here and shine on the international market during POST COVID-19 taking some small share from our dear friend China!!!

“Vocal for Local”- a Swadeshi Movement for Next Generation Manufacturing N. D. Mhatre Director General (Tech), ITAMMA

“Vocal for Local” on priority basis ddressing the nation on 13th involving Digital tools to promote May,2020, Prime Minister Narendra and make user-friendly to next Modi’s through a slogan “Vocal generation manufacturers as well for Local,” announced, Rs 20 lakh as purchasers. crore economic package to revive Scope of “Vocal for Local” to India’s economy and overcome the make Indian Textile Engineering crisis caused due to the COVID-19 Industry- ATMA NIRBHAR pandemic under a self-reliant scheme “Aatma Nirbhar Bharat”. India’s textile machinery The call is to help in trade with the world expanding the startup was US$ 4857.91 million ecosystem by multi(12.31%) in 2018, out of Government of India has thoughtfully introduced folds, thereby aiding the which imports contributed ‘Make-in-India,’ ‘Skill-in-India’ and ‘Start-up India’ country’s aim to become to 83% i.e. US$ 4032 million; simultaneously, whereby the slogan ‘Vocal for Local’ a $5 trillion economy by whileExports were only 17.29 will go hand in hand with all three, helping India to 2025, by creating more % i.e. US$ 839.78 million be “ATMA NIRBHAR BHARAT.” local brands and taking . China, Japan, Germany, them to the global arena. Singapore and Italy were the top five sourcing Importance of “Vocal markets, whileBangladesh, for Local” in Indian Textile Industry our heritage, however enough Germany, Turkey, Vietnam and the Netherlands, were top Export Depending on its own specialty efforts have not been taken to markets for India. China supplied many Indian products have already sustain their importance during worth US$ 1445.77 million (36 % achieved their recognition in- the next generation.These products of total India’s Imports) Textile house as well as Globally since can be taken on our agenda of Machinery to India. | SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY At the same time India’s production of Textile Machines, Spares and Accessories is Rs 6,865 Crores, fulfilling only 46.61% of Home – consumption to a tune of Rs 3,200 Crores against the demand of Rs 13,004 Crores which is 52.71%. The involvement of Entrepreneurship states that about 40-45% are manufacturers and the rest are Traders/gents/Dealers.

among Indian manufacturers by offering a TUF scheme for TEI, there may not be any need for TUF for the textile industry as machinery and parts will be available at 40-60% lower cost

The above statistics calls for pursuing progressively for reduction our overall import dependence, especially from China, to become ATMA NIRBHAR. In such an exercise, imports from China no doubt require close scrutiny, considering their size in our import profile and even higher share of the bilateral trade deficit in our total merchandise trade imbalance. After interacting with few Entrepreneurs involved in the business of Chinese products, following findings are noted :-

e) Machines & spare parts of nonChinese companies manufactured in China and sold in India[ effort to invite such foreign producers to locate their manufacturing in India by offering them attractive investment incentives, time bound tariff protection, ensuring that progressively they will also export.]

a) machines & spare parts manufactured by Indians at par/ more effective in durability /quality than Chinese products used in India, but at higher cost.[Govt. of India should support through ‘Make-in-India’ initiative to bring down the manufacturing cost.] b) Chinese machines & spare parts used by Indian machinery manufacturers; [Govt. of India should encourage Local manufacturer to indigenously manufacture under ‘Make-in-India’ initiative and convey message that we not only want to make products for India but make them for the world indicating that we are also aiming at competitive manufacturing and not import substitution at any cost.] c) Chinese machines & spare parts used by Indian Textile Mills [If the government promotes technology

d) Chinese machines & spare parts exported by Indian Traders/Agents to other countries from India [Govt. of India to support through Export incentives for Indian Products]

A detailed study on following aspects will help in execution of the concept ‘Vocal for Local’ at Grass – Root level through ATMA NIRBHAR BHARAT initiative. • Which machines and Spares/ Accessories heavily depend on imports right now and cannot immediately scale up production domestically?

Technologies even being expensive are preferred Globally due to their sustainability and Artificial Intelligence (AI) systems and being user-friendly and environment friendly. Inception of these machines, especially pre-owned has taken place in huge numbers in India under TUF scheme. China offered workshop facilities for many European machinery manufacturers and taking this opportunity, developed very cost effective machines with European technology standards under reverse engineering techniques and was able to target India as their major export market. It’s a matter of time when Indian Entrepreneurs realized and as learnt from them, that these machines could not give sustainable performance due to lack of good quality metallurgical aspects, while manufacturing in order to deliver a low-cost Product. Following suggestions may be considered for preparing Indian TEI to be ATMA NIRBHAR and promote through ‘Vocal for Local’ concept, taking it further ‘Focus on Local for World’

• Which machines and Spares/ Accessories partially depend on imports to make their finished products? • Are there any machines, spares and accessories that are already self-reliant, have minimal dependence on imports or have the capacity to immediately scale up production here? • What are the issues with scaling up production in import dependent sectors? • What policy measure does industry need for greater local production? We

are

aware

that

European

• MSMEs TE Units As more than 80% of Indian TE Units are MSMEs, their technological base and state-of-the art set-up of their factories to deliver a quality and competitive products in accordance with International Standards it calls for i) Trainings on 5s, Kaizan, Six Sigma Yellow/Green Belt/ Lean for development of man-power; ii) LEAN Competitive Scheme for the Process and Infrastructure | SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

development; iii) in-house Projects with TRAs for Product/Design development; iv) Certification of the Business – ZED, ISO, etc. v) strengthen Backward Integration i.e. Machine Tools • Creating an Eco-system for innovations & technology development in Textile industry” A gap between the Supply Chain CONNECTIVITY due to USER Industry (Textile Manufacturers in Spinning, Weaving, Processing, Knitting, Garment, Apparel) comes under the control of MOT(Ministry of Textiles), while SUPPLY Industry (Textile Machines, Spares & Accessories Manufacturers) & Machine Tool Industry comes under DHI (Ministry of Heavy Industry); if overcome then it will encourage Innovation/ Technology Development Projects for TEI from the User Industry under MOT development schemes. • Creating Accessories and Spares Depot in the Textile Parks for ease of doing business • Technology Scouting missions for Product/Design development through in-house Projects with TRAs like NRDC, CSIR, ISRO, etc. • Textile Centres for rendering after Sales and Technical Services • C o m m o n F a c i l i t a t i o n Centres (CFCs) –(to facilitate c o n c e p t u a l i za t i o n and implementation for projects, training of technical staff of

manufacturers, organizing workshops and seminars, facilitation in obtaining government subsidies for projects, etc. They also facilitate trials and feedback from user industry to enable rapid commercialization) • ‘Focus on Local for the World’ It is also essential to extend the slogan ‘Vocal for Local’ to the next stage “ Focus on Local for the World” in order to develop those Products as consumed at National and International level but presently are not manufactured indigenously. However it is essential to consider religiously the availability of raw material, man-power, infrastructure, natural resources and technology while developing the Product at World class standard and at competitive price. • If we can rapidly progress to a stage of ‘plug and play’ concept • Export Cells of Textile Engineers to promote Indian Textile Machines, Spares & Accessories in the Textile Producing Countries • Special Pavilions of Indian Textile Machines, Spares & Accessories in National & International Exhibitions • Business Scouting Missions during International Events. • SMART DATA CENTRE - Authentic DATA of Production, Export &

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Import of Capital Goods sector (Finished/Complete Machinery, Assemblies/sub-assemblies & Components, Hi-tech machineries and technology components) to help individual TE units in business, Engineering Associations in preparing strategies for its members, guide Research Associations and Industry Experts in Research and Turnkey Projects. Digitalization The technique /tool meaning instant connectivity with anyone, anywhere, anytime at mere cost, will play a very vital role in taking the concept ‘Vocal for Local’ more effectively to every corner and part of businesses. In this Era of Digitalization new technologies like going green, smart manufacturing, industry 4.0, etc. will place a challenge for this concept ‘Vocal for Local’ as it demands the suppliers and consumers of the Swadeshi Products to be acquainted with these technologies. Realizing the same, Government of India has thoughtfully introduced ‘Make-in-India,’ ‘Skill-inIndia’ and ‘Start-up India’ simultaneously, whereby the slogan ‘Vocal for Local’ will go hand in hand with all three, helping India to be “ATMA NIRBHAR BHARAT.”

COVER STORY

#VOCALFORLOCAL...except for the handloom sector? SUNAINA KHETAN INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

bstract

lessness, low prices and endless supply of machine-made textiles.

In 1948, the cottage Industries Board (CIB) was established and This paper reviews and questions the need for the abolition of the Local artisans, impoverished and the existing Handloom Committee handloom and handicrafts boards plagued with unemployment, suf- was subsumed into the CIB. The and considers the effect that this fered unyielding distress with no establishment of this board emphaabolition will bring upon the infor- alternative industry to turn to. The sised rural economic development mal sector of artisans and weavers crisis was so serious in severity through small-scale, cottage and in India. It draws similarities be- that even the colonial government village industries, to uplift the rutween the situation of this sector could not bear to overlook it. Af- ral masses in the country. Later, in during the Pre-Khadi movement ter year-long discussions with the 1952, to further prioritise and expeand that of it today, having been left leaders of the handloom sector, dite the prosperity of the handloom weavers and artisans, the All India without government aid in the midHandloom Board and All dle of an economic crisis. India Handicrafts Board Introduction were separated from The abolishment of the the CIB. These sectors Amidst the widespread appeal for #MadeinIndia All India Handloom Board have heavily contributand the All India Handiand #VocalforLocal, it seems that artisans have ed towards the empowcrafts Board in July this erment and upliftment been left to fend for themselves...yet again. year comes as an impetus of women in India. We to the repetition of history. have national leaders like Kamaladevi ChattoThe Vocal for Local campadhyay and Pupul Jaypaign harkens back to more than a century ago, when the establishment of the All India akar to thank for their arduous efMahatma Gandhi appealed for the Handloom Board was proposed forts to recognise and preserve the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Swadeshi movementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in 1906. And by the committee in 1942. The handloom and handicrafts sector. at the helm of this appeal was the goals of this board were to bridge Handloom Sector: The Heart of handloom sector of India. The In- the gap between the government India dustrial Revolution brought upon and the weavers, to provide them a wave of cheap, mass-produced with a platform to voice their con- Today, the handloom sector is an textiles from Britain into Indian cerns, to enable and facilitate the indispensable contributor to emmarkets, and the handloom sec- adequate supply of raw materi- ployment generation in India, sector took a severe blow. The hand- al, to market handloom products ond only to agriculture. While agriloom fabrics, slow to produce and and to ensure the overall welfare culture may be the backbone of the subject to human errors, could of the handloom segment in India. country, our traditional artisanal textiles and crafts are undeniably not hold ground against the flaw| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

the heart. The handloom and handicraft sector is responsible for the livelihoods of 32 million in India, an overwhelming majority of whom belong to economically impoverished backward castes, scheduled tribes, scheduled castes and minorities. The industry has weathered numerous adversities during the colonial era, without much better regard by the post-colonial Indian government. The termination of the All India Handloom Board on July 27th, and the All India Handicrafts Board on August 4th, 2020 comes as just another manifestation of the same neglect that this sector has been facing for decades despite the significance of its contributions to both our economy, as well as our heritage. To put it into numbers, the handicrafts sector generated Rs. 3,67,898 crores through exports and Rs. 12,678 crores domestically. Additionally, the handloom sector earned Rs. 2,280 crores in exports and Rs. 2,75,000 crores in domestic trade. With numbers as staggering as this, the consistency of government neglect towards the sector should come as a shock. And yet, the informal sector has been once again pushed back to cope alone. The Repetition of History With the onset of the novel coronavirus, and the economy crashing, the abolition of these boards implies the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retraction of responsibility towards the sustenance of the sector. Directing the funds instead to capitalistic organisations, the government seems to be robbing the weavers and artisans of their self-reliance and independence. This move will most likely cast our artisans into the throes of starvation and exploitation at the hands of large multinational corpo-

rations. One cannot help but see the resemblance of this situation to that prior the Khadi Movement. Once again, our weavers find themselves without any government aids, in the middle of an economic crisis, competing with powerloom-fabrics and machine-made crafts. Do the mantras of Make in India and Vocal for Local hold any substance if those at the core of domestic production are struggling? With some justifying the cause of abolition to be the inefficiency showcased by the boards in recent years, it is imperative that new boards be set up and adequate funds be allocated to the sector immediately. While a healthy assimilation and growth of multinational corporations may be essential in carving a way forward for India, leaving our artisans, and with them, our culture behind, is definitely not an option. Be Truly Vocal for Local Now more than ever, the handlooms and handicrafts sector needs civic support on a grassroot level. By opting for handloom textiles and handicrafts over machine-made home accessories and fashion apparel, each one of us can contribute to sustain our artisans and weavers. With several NGOs and brands advocating and supporting traditional handmade products, it is easier than ever before to find and purchase high-quality, authentic goods. After all, the cause is much greater than just rural upliftment. Handlooms and handicrafts are also at the crux of the sustainability movement. They are not objects of antiquity that we must hold onto, but the tools with which we must chisel and shape our future.

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Summary The abolition of the handloom and handicrafts boards will have harsh repercussions on these sectors, that will only be exacerbated by the ongoing pandemic and economic crisis. With a situation very similar to this having unfolded almost a century ago, we must learn from history and allocate resources to help the sector cope better. Handlooms and handicrafts contribute greatly to foreign exchange in the country and present viable prospects for the development of the country. Even from the environmental point of view, handlooms and handicrafts play an instrumental part in the sustainability movement. This paper appeals for civic support at the individual level to keep the sector from capitalistic exploitation. References Indian Textile Ministry. (2018). Handicrafts in India. Fibre2fashion. Com.https://www.fibre2fashion. com/industry-article/3668/handicrafts-in-india Rao, M. M. (2020). Abolishing Handloom, Handicrafts Boards During COVID-19. Pressboltnews.Com. https://www.pressboltnews.com/ abolishing-handloom-handicraftboards-during-covid-19-crisis-ishasty-move-reflecting-govts-neglect-of-sectors/ Borges, J. (2020). Vocal weaver, no more? Midday. https://www. m i d - d a y.co m /a r t i c l e s / v o c a l weaver-no-more-government-toscrap-handloom-and-handicraftboards/22962200 Chandra, A. (2020). Vocal for local: Artisansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; atmanirbharta is in our hands. Freepressjournal. https:// www.freepressjournal.in/weekend/ vocal-for-local-artisans-atmanirbharta-is-in-our-hands

COVER STORY

CAMPAIGN FOR A BETTER INDIA Navneeta MS INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

bstract

‘Vocal for Local’ by the term itself we can understand that it is something related to upliftment. There are many brands all over India which don’t get much reorganization. The government of India has suggested all the brands in India to follow the ‘Make in India’ which will promote the manufacturing and supply chain.

Source :https://yourstory.com/2020/06/vocal-for-local-made-in-india-boycott-chinalocal-brand-creatives/

According to some experts, the vocal for local According to some experts, It is basically a campaign campaign will change that is done to make the the vocal for local campaign will change how the how the brands will local companies global, brands will use digital marketing use digital marketing to and to increase demand communicate and esto communicate and establish themselves in India for locally manufactured tablish themselves in Inand also from local to global. goods. This campaign has dia and also from local helped many companies to global. As it is a digital across India to reach widmarketing method it is er audience. Experts say a very cost effective and thus it will brands would now want to talk their demographics, who is their help all the local brands to reach a proudly about their local nature target audience their income and bigger audience. This is to achieve and even communicate to people should have a complete analysis the goal of ‘Atma nirbhar bharath’ by caring a ‘Made in India’ logo. of the consumers. By adapting to [self reliant India.Many companies preferences it will help each brand Introduction have a unique identity. Language came up with postures, quotes and Main things the brands should fo- is another important thing to be videos supporting the campaign. cus is on finding the right digital looked upon in India, Price is very One such brand Kamdhanu Paints team as it is very important, brand important for Indian consumers. launched a new social media camlocalization is where the brand India’s Prime Minister Nerandra paign to amplify PM Modi’s messhould have exact strategy that fo- Modi is pursuing this campaign and sage of being ‘Vocal for local’ the cus on local branding and getting almost all the brands are ready to campaign ‘Be Indian By Indian’ engenuine response from people. join this by having a local theme. courage all Indians to buy made in Each brand should understand | SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

Source :https://www.socialsamosa.com/2020/05/vocal-for-local-brand-creatives/

India’s products. It will also encourage people to look for made in India tags like the way they look MRP and manufacturing date. On May 12th announcing Rs 2 lakh crore Atma Nirbhar package in an address to the nation, Prime Minister Modi has said “Friends, the corona crisis has also explained to us the importance of local manufacturing, local markets and local supply chain. In times of crisis, this local

has fulfilled our demand, this local has saves us, local is not just the need, it is our responsibility also”. Summery Vocal for Local is a big campaign which is helping many brands and companies. Prime Minister Narendra Modi has helped many companies by introducing this campaign. This campaign should be given more attention and support as it focuses on making our India self reliant.

| SEPTEMBER 2020

References https://www.magnarevo.com/govocal-for-local-what-does-it-reallymean-for-indian-business https://m.timesofindia.com/india/ vocal-for-local-should-becomemantra-for-every-indian-pm-modi/ amp_articleshow/77557766.cms https://yourstory.com/2020/06/ vocal-for-local-made-in-india-boycott-china

COVER STORY

Hit by the Pandamic, standing for #VocalforLocal

NABARUPA BOSE INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

bstract

The Apparel and Fashion Industry has faced a severe recession due to Covid-19. Textile Industry being the second-largest employer, India is at a great loss economically. It is the need of the hour for India to be self reliant. The government also saw this as an opportunity to remove the domestic hurdles i.e. Chinese imports, before moving to a self-sustaining ecosystem and attracting a share of the global value chain. Hence, Vocal for Local was called upon. Introduction The Indian apparel Industry has incurred around Rs. 1 lakh crore of loss including 50 lakh jobs, as announced by Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI). All textile and apparel related businesses, including small ventures and Indian labels had to go through a lot of hardships to keep the cash flowing and keep the brand afloat in the market. One of the worst groups hit by the

Nafeesah Ahmed INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN pandemic are the handloom sectors across various states in India. Starting with the retail stores getting shut down, the sector stopped getting orders. This led to the artisans getting no work at all, thereby stopping cash inflow. Furthermore, retail events like exhibitions and fairs are not going to take place till next few months. The interests of customers have also been altered with lower incomes resulting in sudden disruption of artisan’s livelihood. It is now more crucial than ever to support local designers, labels, ventures including the handloom industry, who desperately need assistance to get lives back on track after months of no business and too many workers to stay afloat. The solution for surviving during this period is growing locally and helping others flourish at the various stages of the consumer-retail chain. The only body capable of making sure the concerns of the craftspeople are heard is ourselves, the user. You are boosting the economy by wearing something crafted in India, and making sure that native creativity flourishes. It is an approach for which one of India’s most re-

nowned fashion designers, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, has been speaking for a while now. The voice “vocal for local” can be seen as a bilateral approach which would be a boon for the nation and for the individual as well. The Make In India experience Malini Ramani just recently confirmed that she was shutting her company after 20 years of being India’s most celebrated resort designers. She designed glamorous evening wear, and felt this is not the time to be selling fancy clothes, when migrant laborers and poor people are dying of hunger and insufficiency. She realized in the lockdown that she is paying high rents with no clear profits in sight. She might open a sustainable line in the future, but is currently looking for a different way of life. Let’s not neglect the fact that most Indian brands do not have corporate backing. Make in India is definitely not cheap as other exported apparel but this lockdown has made us understand that we have a myriad of textiles and clothing. Therefore, buying smart with fabrics that are made to last would be a better ap| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

proach. A respectable business owner, Mousumi Bose, from Ranchi, Jharkhand, runs a small business of ethnic wear products including sarees, kurtis, dress material etc. She mainly sources all her products from different states in India including Kolkata, Purulia, Lucknow and Chhattisgarh. She set up a small boutique in the year 2015. Her initial sales were of Kosa silk of Chapa, Chattisgarh. Once it gained momentum from increasing clients, she added products from other states as well. Before the pandemic hit, she had a regular customer base and good turnover, in general. But due to Covid, her business is at par right now. She is not able to travel to different states in India to get supply of her products. Moreover, she has lost a good amount of customers. According to her, there should be a platform where wholesalers from different states can sell their products, where small business owners like herself can buy manufactured products online at a wholesale rate.

His take on uplifting local businesses is for consumers to buy local instead of outside sources and limit imports from China, who is the biggest supplier of cheap textiles in the world. Subham Silk is another Banarasi handloom manufacturing company, which deals with ethnic wear pieces, in addition to shirts and pants. Rachita Gupta, the founder, produces the fabrics herself and gets some of her stock from other artisans. Both these Banarasi textile producers have faced a decrease in sales after the epidemic. Lalita Khadi Gram Udyog Sewa Samiti, is an organisation that is situated in states across India. Prashant, who manages the Benaras site, deals with silk, cotton and synthetic fabrics. It has a wide range of products from dress material, sarees, kurtis, to shirting and suiting. The society manufactures their own textiles on powerloom and has an embroidery sector. They also source handloom from other artisans and a variety of textiles, natural and synthetic, from states all over India. He has observed a decrease in sales after the pandemic. He says, Government and local aid is necessary to improve the domestic industry. Move to digital marketing

Jai Khanna, from Varanasi, owner of Walaiti Ram Khanna & Son, specializes in production of Banarasi Sarees suits Lehengas and Dress Materials Handloom Sarees Pure Silk sarees Art Silk suits & Sarees , Brocade and zamdani. He has a manufacturing unit in Banaras itself, and also sources handloom fabrics from artisans.

All of these businesses stated above, do not have social media presence. In this current day and age of Zoom call classes and online seminars of diversified fields, to accomplish a common goal of social distancing and practicing a safe environment for all. Businesses are shifting to an online platform to stay relevant and profitable. Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s initiative ‘vocal for local’ has gained popularity. A recent example, the

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Khadi and Village Industry Commission (KVIC) launched an e-portal to sell its products. It served nearly 4,000 customers in less than two months since it ventured into the online marketing segment which quickly established a pan-India reach allowing the craftsmen to sell their products in the remotest parts of India. The range of products is priced from Rs 50 to Rs 5,000, bearing in mind the choice and affordability of all kinds of buyers. Since earlier Khadi institutions products were only sold through outlets and their visibility was restricted to only a few states. With KVIC’s e-portal, products are now reaching distant areas of the country. Thus providing Khadi institutions, with a wider marketing spectrum which will ultimately increase their production and add to the artisans’ income. Appreciation of workers involved Manufacturers don’t talk about the workers involved in their production. But businesspersons reported that the Surat textile is facing a shortage of workers as they did not return in the absence of transport services. Hence, they are attempting to get them back from Odisha, where about 50% of the workers reside. Furthermore, there are some informal home based workers, predominantly female, who are invisible to the broad industry. They remain unacknowledged by brands and buyers, but advocate for better recognition and laws to secure protection of their jobs. There is a need to acknowledge their existence and do more to understand the role they play in providing to the supply chain.

COVER STORY A crucial first step is the universalization of social security for workers, regardless of their socioeconomic status. In addition, remedies need to concentrate on accountability and eventually solidifying the textile supply chain, ensuring that employees are recognised, paid for their efforts, given the same protections and above all, appreciated.

drive.

Conclusion

MPs of the Labour panel proposed that India should aim to export cotton to African countries as it is a larger market than Europe, where demand of cotton clothing is just for three months, while it is much higher and longer in Africa.

We see manufacturers all over the country facing issues regarding acquiring of material and overall decrease in purchase and revenue. Their consumer base is in-andaround their comfort zone. Their lack of online presence is hindering their growth, as consumers who would want the textiles might be living in another state or foreign country. We also see workers struggling to make ends meet. Closing down textile units have led to people having fallen into financial crisis and many people being homeless. Protection of their jobs and increasing minimum wage can be an achievable first step. A calculated investment in homegrown goods will increase demand for the same and boost the economy. Good communication and network is required in the value chain. Creating growth and development opportunities, resulting in the building of the Vocal For Local

www.textileappareljobs.com

The National Democratic Alliance (NDA) aims to improve the quality of cotton, wool and silk yarn production within the country. Wool produced in India is of low quality, mostly used to make carpets and not clothing. It is also targeting to stop import of silk yarn from China and others in the coming days.

References Sujata Assomull. (2020, July 11). Vocal for local. Ians life. https://www.ianslife.in/fashion/vocal-local Unknown. (2020, September 08). Indians go ‘vocal for local’; Khadi’s e-portal now viral. The Sentinel Assam. https://www.sentinelassam.com/ topheadlines/indians-go-vocalfor-local-khadis-e-portal-now-viral-500012 Pratim Ranjan Bose. (2020, May 13) Be vocal about local’ ― A calculated step to claim a position for India in the global power order. The Hindu business line.

com/economy/be-vocal-about-local-a-calculated-step-to-claim-aposition-for-india-in-the-globalpower-order/article31571331.ece Unknown Guest author. (2020, August 17). What happens when the dust settles? Stretching the safety net for India’s invisible workers. Just style. h tt p s : / / w w w . j u st- st y l e . co m / comment/what-happens-whenthe-dust-settles-stretching-thesafety-net-for-indias-invisibleworkers_id139387.aspx Unknown. (2020, September 09). Surat’s textile industry faces labour shortage, urges resumption of train services to bring in workers. India Times - Economic Times - Retail. https://retail.economictimes. indiatimes.com/amp/news/apparel-fashion/apparel/surats-textile-industry-faces-labour-shortage-urges-resumption-of-train-services-to-bring-in-workers/78008319 Gyan Varma, Anuja. (2020, September 09). Centre considers stopping silk import from China to push domestic production. Livemint. https://www.livemint.com/news/ i n d i a /ce n t re - co n s i d e r s - sto p ping-silk-import-from-china-to-push-domestic-production-11599625898688.html

https://www.thehindubusinessline.

Email : texappjobs@gmail.com

| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY

Local is Luxury ! Bhavya Srivastava INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

print is, that better the product is for Earth. Still why and how will it afVocal for local is a concept which fect the current scenario? Then, The dates long back to the swadeshi products will be in smaller batches movement, or in a way we can say and can be crafted to your needs, a modern swadeshi movement or a there is absolutely no space for swadeshi movement 2.0 in the milcreating a 1000 shirts and then letlennial language, As all know how ting 400 of them go the ourGDP has worsened bin. The brands can craft and at this time to grow that one shirt according back India needs Indians. to your needs.The emWe have to support our ployment of the comGDP for our Growth.We India’s biggest strength is the diversity and cultures, munity and local areas have to Grow together also its People. India needs us. will be good. As people And also, this will become Go local and support the one who needs it! will be hired from the loa very nice opportunity for cal places as well. There’s customers to realisethat way greater interaction Indian products are at par between the brands and or better than the importthe customer. ed expensive ones And for Growing Humans done on the earth to get You can understand that if you like Indian brands, it will become a very this. KARMA and we all do, certain- the brand ethics and beliefs. Many good opportunity to capture the ly do know the answer to that one at times when we order we have no market right now. Once that we start question. Never caring about what idea about what the brand is and buy from India, the money stays in we take from the earth and what what are brand beliefs and if they India only which directly will mean we give back? How do we give it match yours. Also, one big differthat it grows our Country’s GDP. back? Howmuch damage have we ence can be seen in the costing as While the global lockdown has en- done? One thing that came loud the costings of exporting and imcouraged a rethink over how we do, and bold is the term SUSTAINABILporting get off you can also save create, and consume, it has also ITY Reducing the carbon footprint. up a bit andbetter quality. In times left small businesses, which foster What is a Carbon footprint? of crisis, this local has fulfilled our a spirit of community and creativity. The carbon footprint is Basically the demand, this local has saved us. Why should you go local? amount of CO2, which is emitted by Local is not just the need, it is our Since the time this pandemic has consuming the fossil fuels, needless responsibility also” The PM had said started, it made us realise a lot of to say as low as the carbon foot- while addressing the nation on 12th bstract

things such as Firstly it made us use all the products we never did and chose international counterparts for the same. We did realise how better they are, When this whole situation started we all definitely thought about what could we as

| SEPTEMBER 2020

COVER STORY May 2020.The prime Minister also added, Free India should have a mindset of &quot; ATMA NIBHARTA self-reliant Indians and India have always been about naturals and sustainability remember when your old clothes were given to your siblings or Vice the versa or those Skin grandma hacks of besan and curd. even for that matter when your mother collects all the clothes and then exchanges vessels for those all these are very sustainable practices. In fact, India is ranked as one of the best countries to have sustainable practices. Once you start Buying your local, the currency will and

GDP of our country will directly be affected and in a positive manner as the currency of India will circulate in India itself and will not go outside which will help our development and economy. Some local MADE IN INDIA Brands: Patanjali Ayurved Limited, founded by Ramdev Baba, it aims to produce made in India products which are sustainable as well with a lot less chemicals. Fabindia, it is more like a high end departmental store which aims at reviving Indian crafts and hands crafts. As well as sustainable.

Khadi Naturals It aims to provide a better chemical free herbal and plant based products and encouragesIndian plants handicrafts and etc. Reference h tt p s : / / w w w.t i m e s n o w n e w s . com/india/article/vocal-for-localshould-become-mantra-for-everyindian-pm-pitches-for-aatmanirbhar-bharat-in-i-day-speech/637330 Vogue magazines https://www. vogue.in/

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

CLOTHING FROM COCONA FIBRES Cocona fabrics offer superior comfort and enhanced performance in a variety of clothing applications. Cocona fabric provides protection from harmful UV rays;successfully manage odours,

N.N. MAHAPATRA Business Head(Dyes) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

bstract

The coconut tree is known as “The tree of life.” Coconut meat, milk and oil have been widely used in products like suntan lotion, cooking, oil, medicine, water and air filters. In textile also, coir is very popular which is extracted fromthe husk of coconut and used in products such

static, and moisture.

as floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses etc. Now, the finest quality of activated carbon comes from coconut shells to provide superior dry times, odour adsorption and UV protection on a wide range of product applications. The Cocona material is a natural fabric enhancer that is produced from activated carbon from coconut shells, which is infused into the textile fibre by Cocona Inc. patent method. The activated carbon is derived from coconut husks; it is a “waste” product of the water filter industry and is known since immemorial times

to absorb poisons and odours. Activated carbon has a huge absorbing area — one gram of it has a surface area the size of two tennis court. This activated carbon is infused into natural fibres like cotton, wool and synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, etc, which is then blended with other fibres to create performance fabrics. History of cocona fibre Cocona, TrapTek LLC’s patented innovative technology that incorporatesactivated carbon derived from recycled coconut shells into fibres | SEPTEMBER 2020

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

and yarns, hasreceived accolades as a natural, sustainable technology. The technology wasdeveloped in 2002 by Gregory W Haggquist, Ph. D. the Longmont, Colo. basedcompany’s founder and made its consumer market debut in 2006 in knitted cyclingapparel developed by United Knitting, Cleveland, Tenn., and Bethel, Conn.-basedCannondale Bicycle Corp. Technology of cocona fibre Cocona’s outstanding features are due to the fact that the surface of the activated carbon has a pore structure. The pores absorb odour molecules at the sametime as enabling the moisture to escape from the skin’s surface and absorb into the sock more quickly than normal due to the large surface area. Yarn made with Cocona has a surface area that is upto 10 times larger than conventional polyester yarn. The Cocona technology imbeds activated carbon from coconut shells into polyester or nylon polymers. The coconut shells, recycled waste from the food industry, are burned at 300°C followed by a 1,000°C steam-activation process.The activated carbon is used for water and air filtration, wastewater treatment,and other such industries. The microscopic, ultra-fine particles that are too small for those applications are just what TrapTek needs to incorporate into its fibre and yarn If you are keeping track of the unusual materials that have been brought into the sustainability race for performance textiles, then add coconut shells to your list. Based in Boulder, Colorado, Cocona uses activated carbon particles generated from the shells of coconut waste from the food industry to increase fabric performance. The approach has caught on, with the company

website listing a number of brands now using their product, including Danskin, Mammut, Marmot, New Balance, Oakley, Patagonia, Rossignol and Timberland. Production of Cocona fibre Production involves the transfer of coconut shells (not husks) into activated carbon; a substance often used in air and water filtration systems. Cocona makes use of the activated carbon particles too small for filtration use and embeds these particles in synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon. Activated carbon’s claim to fame is a large surface area created by the active carbon pores and a high rate of absorption. Because of the significant increase in surface area created by the active (open) carbon pores, the introduction of the activated carbon particles to synthetic fibres improves the evaporation time of the textile by moving moisture away from the wearer’s skin and spreading it across the garment. Duncan Edward’s of Cocona explains: “our patented technology insures that the carbon pores are open and therefore “active” at the end of the fabric manufacturing process. Other companies claim to have carbon-based products but their pores are not open at the end of the process and therefore not active.” The company uses the example of wiping a chalkboard with a damp towel to illustrate how moisture evaporates more rapidly when dispersed over a large surface area. These attributes are important not only for performance clothing, but also for other textile applications such as the fabric used inside running shoes. Rather than being applied to the fabric as a coating or finish, the activated carbon is made part of the fibre during extrusion, which means that the properties

| SEPTEMBER 2020

won’t wash away or wear off the textile surface over time. The high absorption rate of activated carbon also allows the textile to trap odour, a common downside to synthetic performance fabrics. Garment care involves drying with heat, which the company website explains is achieved when, “odor molecules are released and the carbon refreshed with the heat from washing and drying.” Cocona fibre consider the rapid drying time and natural UV protection achieved without the use of chemical additives to be the two primary benefits of the product. The third, what Cocona fibre refers to as “odour management”, is arguably its innovation. Some companies have returned to the use of natural fibres specifically to combat the odour problem found in synthetics. Cocona fibre seems to take a middle ground, applying their system to improve the performance of synthetics. Similar alternative fabrics marketed under the green bandwagon currently include bamboo, which is hailed as sustainable because of the rapid growth time of plant. The performance properties of bamboo viscose commonly found in the fashion industry are not remarkable, nor are its intensive production needs particularly green. Bamboo charcoal products are available, but explained by Cocona to be “marketed on a limited basis… as unbranded, unsupported commodities.” But the suggestion is that this alternative may come with production inconsistencies and a variable quality that a branded product such as Cocona can avoid for the client. Cocona can be commended on their approach, which uses waste from other industries. In this competitive market it is good to see a

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y little pre-production upcycling already at work. Properties of cocona fibre The creation of Cocona through what is patented as 37.5 technology has numerous desirable properties. 1. Dries quickly: Whether from washing or sweating, the fabric quickly wicks away moisture, so it dries in a significantly short period. This is because the pore structure of the active particles increases the surface area of the fabric. In fact, the technology allows the fabric to dry up to 92% faster than even recycled cotton – read more on recycled cotton here. This could also mean electricity savings for those who still rely on tumble driers in our current environmental climate. 2. Controls odour: Odour molecules are absorbed by the pores of the fabric. The molecules are cleared completely when the fabric is washed and dried. 3. Highly durable: Cocona fabric is proven to last longer than most natural sports textiles like bamboo and cotton, as the particles in the fabric are so wear-resistant. While it is near impossible to wash away the Cocona particles, micro-fibre pollution, caused by the washing of synthetic textiles, is a huge environ-

fashionvaluechain@gmail.com

mental problem. 4.Protects from the sun: The fabric offers the skin a shield from harmful ultra violet rays. The protection can be up to 50UPF+ (Ultraviolet Protection Factor). The active particles also absorb harmful UV rays. 5.Wrinkle-resistant: This feature makes the garment look presentable even if it hasn’t been ironed. This is a great benefit for travellers. Cocona fabrics offer superior comfort and enhanced performance in a variety of clothing applications. Cocona fabric provides protection from harmful UV rays;successfully manage odours, static, and moisture. Independent laboratory tests measuring the amount of time a wet fabric takes to dry at room temperature,fabrics made with Cocona dried significantly faster than other leading moisture-wicking fabrics including polyester (50 per cent faster), cotton (92 per cent faster),and bamboo (96 per cent faster). Fabrics made with Cocona yarns and fibres are inherently lightweight, comfortable, and easy-care.Activated carbon has been used for centuries to purify drinking water and to absorb toxins. When incorporated into yarns and fibres, it creates a fabric that provides highly effective evaporative cooling, odour control,

and superior UV protection, upto 50+UPF (the highest possible rating). Because Cocona technology is inside the fibre; it cannot wash off or wear out like ordinary surface treatments to fabrics. The researchers said that replacing synthetic polyester fibers with coconut husk fibers will reduce petroleum consumption by 2-4 million barrels and carbon dioxide emissions by 450,000 tons annually. Uses of cocona fibre Apparel made from the fibre helps spread and evaporate surface moisture rapidly,making it perfect for sportswear, undergarments, golf apparel and other activeapplications. Cocona fibres are used in garments ranging from shirts, pants,shorts, outerwear, underwear, footwear, travel wear and tank tops In terms of clothing, cocona fabric is made of coconut husks that have been recycled into activated carbon. When incorporated into fibers and fabrics, the result is a garment that dries fast, absorbs odor, stays cool and offers UV protection, which makes it ideal for sports wear.

www.fashionvaluechain.com | SEPTEMBER 2020

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

“GREEN NEW DEAL”: A PARADIGM SHIFT FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY The coronavirus pandemic has been a wake-up call for the world. According to a Mckinsey consumer survey, two-thirds of consumers state that sustainability has become a more important priority to combat climate change following COVID-19.

Anup Goswami SENIOR CONSULTANT GHERZI CONSULTING ENGINEERS PVT LTD

bstract

The coronavirus pandemic has been a wake-up call for the world. According to a Mckinsey consumer survey, two-thirds of consumers state that sustainability has become a more important priority to combat climate change following COVID-19. The sustainability concerns in T&C can be typically clubbed under four major impact areas. The intensity varies depending on the stage of the textile or clothing product life cycle. Vast environmental impact According to the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, the textile and clothing (T&C) industry accounts for 10% of the world’s GHG’s and 20% of the industrial waste water pollution.Annually,48 million mt of clothes are disposed off, the bulk of which ends up in landfills.

world’s third-largest manufacturing sector after the automobile and technology industries. Contributing US$ 2.4 tn to manufacturing value, if it were a country, the industry would be ranked 7th in the world by GDP. ICAC says, by 2025, 8.1 billion people will require clothing. As per WTO, T&C is ranked among the top 5 traded merchandise (5% share). Gherzi findings reveal that T&C sector is a large employer, especially in Asia. In India it is the second largest employer after agriculture. Sustainability concerns The following statistics, published by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, provide a glimpse into the environmental impact of the T&C industry •Every year the T&C industry uses 93 billion m³ of water — enough to meet the consumption needs of five million people.

Large economic footprint The global fashion industry has a large economic footprint. It is the | SEPTEMBER 2020

•Around 20 % of wastewater worldwide is generated by fabric dyeing and treatment. •Of the total fibre input used for clothing, 87 % is incinerated or disposed off in a landfill. •The T&C industry is responsible for 10 % of annual global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. One ton of textiles generates 17 tons of CO2 equivalent vis-a-vis 3.5 tons for plastics and <1 ton for paper •Besides, consumers produce 120 million tons of CO2 equivalent during washing and drying of clothes •If demographic and lifestyle patterns continue as they are now, global consumption of apparel will rise from 62 million metric tons in 2019 to 102 million tons in 10 years. •Every year half a million ton of plastic microfibers are dumped into the ocean, the equivalent of 50 billion

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y plastic bottles. •Chemicals equivalent to $ 21 billion/year are used to produce textiles.

cular economy guided by 4 basic principles: 1.Design out substances of concern and pollutants

•Cotton occupies 2.5% of the world’s arable land but accounts for 16% of all pesticides and 7% of all herbicides used

2.Encourage repair, reuse and recycle

•In India 50% of all pesticides are used for cotton production

4.Rationalize production and consumption

“Instant” fashion The problem is exacerbated by the T&C industry’s operating model. The pace of design and production has accelerated with time. Collection launches are no longer seasonal; the replacement of clothing inventories has become much more frequent. Many low-cost clothing stores offer new designs every week. The number of new garments made annually has doubled in the last 20 years. The rapid pace of apparel production has accelerated both consumption and redundancy. The average person today buys 60 % more clothing than in 2000, especially in Asia with rising percapita fibre consumption. And not only do they buy more, they also discard more as a result. Clothing is massively under-utilized. Re-inventing the industry The large footprint of T&C industry makes it crucial for economic development. Enabling the industry to grow without being an enemy of the environment is the key. This is recognised and acknowledged by governments, policy makers, industry, brands, advocacy groups and the society at large. Heightened awareness has motivated mid-sized and large companies to integrate sustainability policies into their core growth strategy. The T&C industry, like all industries, is slowly but surely gravitating towards a cir-

3.Conserve and regenerate resources and natural systems

Technology and research are playing a key role in making the industry more sustainable. Athletic shoes and attire are getting made out of materials extracted from the plastic dumped into the ocean. Fish skins and natural dyes are replacing chemicals, fruit skins are substituting furs, and artificial leathers are getting made out of plants. Some companies have a return policy so they can recycle the consumers’ garments after they have worn out. As per estimates made by the Textile Exchange, the rate of textile-totextile or post and pre-consumer recycling of clothing is a meagre 1%. This shows a huge potential to grow. Fashion brands are reacting to consumer concerns and exerting pressure on the supply chain, as reflected in concrete commitments made by popular brands and retailers. Many textile and garment companies have pro-actively embarked on ‘circular’ initiatives. While a lot still needs to be done, it is encouraging that many companies are becoming involved when a decade ago there was little talk of sustainable fashion. Today, regardless of whether you are a small, medium or largescale manufacturer, there is a need to revisit your business model and align it with the UN SDG’s. A wise step should be to collaborate with a sound knowledge partner to benchmark your KPI’s and prepare the roadmap towards a sustainable

future. Sustainability initiatives NIKE’S Flyknit collection of footwear designs out waste. Its one-piece upper avoids multiple stitched or glued panels, cutting waste volume by 60% TONL`E uses all pre-consumer textile waste to make fashionable clothing PANTAGONIA’S Worn Wear program encourages consumers to send in worn or slightly damaged Patagonia apparel to be repaired (40,000 repairs/year) The ZDHC program advocates elimination of hazardous chemicals from the fashion industry JEANOLOGIA’s patented e-flow technology claims to reduce water consumption by 95%, energy by 40% and process chemicals by 90% TRINJAN – initiative by KVM Punjab, promotes the production of organic cotton and creates opportunities for women’s economic empowerment HAELIXA’s platform for natural textile fibres provides users with a reliable tool to trace and identify their products from source to retail, assuring the sustainability and integrity of their products. FASHION FOR GOOD’s Innovation Platform focuses on sparking and scaling technologies and business models that have the greatest potential to transform the industry. Its South Asia Innovation Program provides such opportunity ARVIND, TRIDENT, VARDHMAN, WELSPUN and many others have integrated sustainability into their business and have a well-defined framework in place

| SEPTEMBER 2020

H R U P DAT E

Students know your Industry

B. Basu

For every work, for any good and bad, negative, or positive, ask yourself “why”? A man can be a successful Engineer when he can solve the problems, and all depends upon his analytical sense. Sometimes it requires deep analysis and thoughts where guidance can be sought from experts or seniors. But one must have sufficient internal thought process, in depth analytical power, willing to know “why” will make him a successful Engineer.

TEXTILE EXPERT

Engineering Colleges. The causes are obvious!

bstract

In India more than 5 lakhs degree Engineers and almost equal numbers of Diploma students are being produced in each year. As per NASSCOM, 75% of them are unemployable because of poor exposure, poor technical background. Apathy towards learning, to undergo training and not willing to work hard are the main causes of the same. They dream very high but because of lack in energy, not willing to learn are the main causes of not getting proper employment and not getting the dreams fulfilled and hence get frustrated. This paper has discussed in detail of the above facts. Introduction Now a days there is a general tendency among the fresh Engineers to get the lucrative jobs in good post with extremely high salaries and that too in Brand name organisations to show his social status. This thinking process starts from the 1st year of admission itself but starts aggravating from the 4th Semester onwards and such tendency mostly found among the 3rd and 4th grade

The Author served as a T&P Officer in two Engineering Colleges and experienced that even the colleges arrange for the Campus Interviews, the first question asked by the final year students (i)what would be the salaries? (ii) Which company? (if not Branded or not known to them, they twist their nose and show reluctance to face the Interviews. Later, they say that the colleges are not arranging their jobs (iii) Which place? (if in remote places they take low interest especially the female students (iv) Which department? (most of them are not willing to work in Shifts and in Production) (v) Working Hours? (today so many organisations are offering 12 hours duty which is not accepted by most of the students). (vi) Whether accommodation will be provided? (In remote places some Organisation provide free bachelor accommodation, some on chargeable basis) The branded companies select candidates with high % of marks without any ATKT, conduct Mental ability test, Aptitude Test, Written Test, etc where maximum students are

| SEPTEMBER 2020

eliminated at Primary stage itself. Later, they blame college that they were not informed /trained properly. The author tried his best for the InPlant training w.e.f. 4th Semester itself but most of the students raised those questions and showed reluctant if it is not Branded industries or known to them. They very often ask whether the Organisation will pay them Stipend or free accommodation with food? Most of them are having the attitude as if they are obliging the Organisation by undergoing Training! Although some organisations offer tea, free or subsided lunch but they never express gravitates to them. One Branded Organisation at Tarapore provided free food, lodging, transportation for 15 days of In plant training to 6 female students but they could not even prepare a full report! Never expressed their gratitude to that organisation! So many students are having the bad habit of leaving the training before the completion of the terms! However, most of the students from grade 1 engineering Colleges are found to be more studious and sin-

H R U P DAT E cere. Most of them are found to be interested in industrial visits and In -plant trainings. They are good in communication too. However, most of the students from grade 1 engineering Colleges are found to be more studious and sincere. Most of them are found to be interested in industrial visits and In -plant trainings. They are good in communication too. One Branded Organisation at Tarapore provided free food, lodging, transportation for 15 days of In plant training to 6 female students but they could not even prepare a full report! Never expressed their gratitude to that organisation! So many students are having the bad habit of leaving the training before the completion of the terms! However, most of the students from grade 1 engineering Colleges are found to be more studious and sincere. Most of them are found to be interested in industrial visits and In -plant trainings. They are good in communication too. The Author has shown the case studies below of some students about their ignorance about the leading Industries and has pointed out that they are least bothered the trainings although it is mandatory now! They hardly show interest in learning new things. Case no 1. Few days before , I received a mail from one Mr.Rajabhai ( identity hidden) that his daughter Ms. Arti (identity hidden) is studying MTech in a Textile college of Maharashtra and Mr.Rajabhai wants her Internship in Merchandising in any Reputed Branded Textile Mills for 6 months. I never knew Mr. Rajabhai nor her daughter but took pity and

arranged Internship at Siyaram Silk Mills. She needed to take training at both Plant at Tarapore as well as in Corporate Office, Mumbai. Siyaram Silk Mills are one of the best manufacturers of Suiting & Shirting fabrics and a quality Producer too. There were lots of scopes for Ms. Arti if she would had opted the Training at Siyaram Silk Mills.

in Net and gain knowledge. However, I told her father not to disturb any more. Ms.Arti lost a very good chance because of her poor knowledge about the industries. Case no 2.

I replied to Mr.Rajabhai that the Internship of his daughter is arranged at Siyaram Silk Mills , Mumbai/ Tarapore and please tell Ms.Arti to talk to me directly so that I can understand her needs and can guide her properly. The father replied â&#x20AC;&#x153;Arti is now too busy with her coming examination and she will talk to me only after the exam is overâ&#x20AC;?. I came to know that the exam was till late by one month and I wondered whether a student is too busy before one month of the exam that she could not speak even for 10 mts? Does she at all taking lunch/ dinner for the Exam preparation?

The 3rd year Textile students of one Engg. College came to me where I was the T&P Officer that they wanted In- plant Training. I welcome it seeing their interest. I asked them about their choice of the place, location, and which type of the Industries! Now a days they are very choosy about all the points. They want to be trained only in the Branded name organizations like Reliance, Raymond etc. I suggested them that in Polyester manufacturing sectors Bhilosa is a good leader and I could try for them! They asked Bhilosa? Bhilosa? Where it is? I told them the details about that one of the largest Polyester Manufacturer i.e.Bhilosa but they refused as they never heard of it!!

I went to that college where I was a Faculty and met Ms.Arti . I told her the details and she was totally surprised that her father was trying for her internship! I told Ms. Arti whether she was interested in doing Internship in Siyaram as I could arrange. She showed totally ignorant about Siyaram Silk Mills and refused!! She told me that she was interested in some big and Branded name company so that she could get a good Job too. All upset me and surprised to find her poorest knowledge about the leading Textile Mills. I told her to mention the name of at least 5 companies to whom she categorizes as Branded. Needless to mention that she could not tell anything except Reliance and Raymonds. That was the poor knowledge of a M.Tech Student and I advised her to see about Siyaram

Choice: Similarly, I have seen that most of the students are unaware of their Industries, locations, type of Product nor aware of their growth and Market share. It is a general tendency among them to accept the job only in that Organization which is Branded and good pay master. It is fact that the branded Companies like Raymonds, Kusumgar, Trident, Vardhman, Wellspun, AYM Syntex, Reliance , Arvind , Sutlej , K P R Mill Ltd, Bombay Dyeing, Grasim , Fabindia , JCT , Laksmi Textiles, Bombay Rayon, Jindal, Siyaram , RSWM, Banswara , Donear, Mafatlal, DDecor, and so many others Pay moderate to good but their selection procedures are very systematic and scientific . One must have sufficient exposure on their Products and Market share. The students must

Case no 3:

| SEPTEMBER 2020

H R U P DAT E

appear for the Mental ability Test, written exams, group discussions and vivo. It is tested their G.K. especially about the Textile Industries and their market situation, product range, latest Machineries, about Textile -4 etc. The other Branded companies with good pays and with very nice interviews and selection procedures are Indo Rama, Bhilosa, Sanathan, JBF, Supreme Non-woven, Alok ( now taken by RIL) , Garware , Indo count, Himatsingka, Filatex, Ambika Cotton, Century Enka , zodiac, Ruby , Orbit Export, gokuldas Export , Nahar group, Nandan Denim, Pasupati, VTM, VHM , Ginni Filaments , KG Denim, Damodar Industries, Dinesh , Garden , Wellknown , Morarjee Mills, Gini Silk mills, Digjam, Swadeshi Polytex, Arvee Denim, PBM Polytex, Mohota Mills, Pee vee Textiles , Nagarika Export, GTN Industries, Soma Textile, Surya Laxmi , Aditya Spinners, Oswal Industries, Creative Garments, Jayashree, Gimatex, Ginza, Shahi Export, Subhalaksmi, DNH Polyester, ETCO , NTC Mills etc.etc. One thing is to keep in mind that the better scope of learnings is in the smaller sectors than that of Branded Organised sectors. In these Branded Organised Sectors, the people do not work but the systems work. Right from loading, operation, unloading, material handlings, to despatch, the systems work as everything is automatic and planned. The whole Plant is managed by the limited manpower. Hence there is less chance of learning minute things as they are mostly solved by the trained workforce. More you face the challenges, more you learn. But this logic is not accepted by most of the students as they target a thick pay packet.

Case 4. Connections to the Industries: These are not the last but there are thousands of other Textile Mills Whose details are available through internet, Through alumni, industrial Experts visiting your colleges, Taking personal interest, Campus Interview, industry visits, In plant trainings etc. The students must avail all such facilities. But efforts are not taken by them. Case no 5.1. Poor knowledge of the Freshers: One of my friends, then CEO of one Cotton Spinning Mills at Maharashtra was taking round at Mid night and found that the Ring Frame department was in total mesh!! The Shift Engineer was a fresher from a local textile college joined 4 months before who was knowing nothing about the working policy of the Department. He was even unaware of the Types of Ring frame having in the Mills (there were LMM) nor about any details of the Spinning machines. From that local college 4 fresh B.Tech ( Textile ) were selected and he was one of them. The CEO fired him left & right for his callous attitude and negligence and that fellow left the mills at that night itself! Case no 5.2: Poor knowledge: One day I was returning from Duties at 9 pm at Silvassa and found that one young fellow was following me. When I asked him, he told me that he knew me very well as he was from a Polytechnic college where I deliver lectures sometimes. He told me that he needs a change in job as he is newly married. He was having 5 years of experiences in Sulzer looms at a renowned local industry where he was working in shift. I asked him

| SEPTEMBER 2020

what was his present salaries which was quite OK as per the Industry standard. I asked him about the number of looms, and it was 40. I asked him the following questions (i) How many suiting (double width) and how many triple width (shirting) are working? (ii) What were the speed of the looms? (iii) What was the avg reed/ Pick and warp & weft count? (iv) What was the maximum reed space utilisation? (v) What was the production per day and efficiency % (vi) What was the rejection %? (vii) What is the maintenance schedule? (viii) What is the beam length? It is needless to mention that out of 8 questions, he could reply none!! Then I told him to meet me after 7 days with all the answers ready and I will try for his job. He never meets me again! Case no 6: Why it happens? Nothing is taken seriously for such students who only criticise the managements, Bosses, and show dissatisfaction over salaries where sky is the limit. The Industrial visits are arranged with all the pre trainings and guidance what are to be observed, to be noted, but in most of the cases , the students complete the Whole Mills visit within 10-15 mts and rest of the time get busy with chatting and selfie . During In Plant training (which are 15 days to 30 days), they don`t note, nor study, nor question anything to the Floor level Supervisors, although every pre guidance are given in written. Those who follow, become the masters. Most of the students try to hush up and try to leave earlier during In plant and Industry Visits. Sincerity, devotion, follow the guidance of the teachers are the

H R U P DAT E right way to come up. Case no 7: What the Industries Expect from the Fresh Technical Graduates? What are the steps to become a successful Engineer? (general advice to the freshers) Hard working: Be strict to your works; be ready to work even more than your stipulated time. Your hard and sincere work will motivate your juniors. Work systemically and scientifically. Be a good planner that how to organise the workloads as per the importance of the works assigned to you and to complete them within stipulated frame works. Result Oriented: Industry expects that the Engineer will design, plan, and execute the works in such a manner that the output will be higher. The superior will be guided but each & every aspect and subject cannot be dictated. The Engineer must have the self-planning method by which the results become positive. There should be self-motivation. Good analytical sense: For every work, for any good and bad, negative, or positive, ask yourself “why”? A man can be a successful Engineer when he can solve the problems, and all depends upon his analytical sense. Sometimes it requires deep analysis and thoughts where guidance can be sought from experts or seniors. But one must have sufficient internal thought process, in depth analytical power, willing to know “why” will make him a successful Engineer. He should be a good thinker: “Think” is the right thinking. More you think about, more you go into the details; more you can unearth the puzzles.

To analyse anything, one must be a good thinker. All the great scientists and people are well thinkers. The persons, who cannot think, commit mistake very often. He should be a good planner: A proper planner can solve the problems, can complete the jobs in stipulated time and hence save the time. A bad workman quarrels with his tools. The Engineers should not only plan but to see how best the jobs can be distributed among his team mates so that the jobs get completed in accordance with the specifications. Knowledge: Any Engineer must have enough knowledge in the department where he is working. Knowledge is the strength. Strength is the knowledge. Without proper knowledge he will be considered as dump technologists. He will be unable to control his juniors. Will be unable to give quality and production. This knowledge they must acquire right from 1st year. Not only Technical and bookish knowledge but also general knowledge, other relevant knowledges will help boosting up his career. Attitude: Every work man must have positive attitude towards everything. “Yes, I will do” is liked by all superiors. “This is not my work, which is not my work” will create only confusion. Never say “No” to anything. Slackness, avoiding responsibilities, forgetting of jobs, passing the bucks will not help in establishing the career. One has to remember that work is worship. Not to expect any award/reward every now & then for any work you have performed. Think that it is your responsibilities.

Honesty: Honesty is the best policy. Be honest even you lose, but in long run you will be benefited. For any fault accept the mistake. Try to rectify it. Honesty and sincerity will always pay you. Do not lie for not performing but confess it truly. Your superiors and juniors will trust you, will have faith on you. Sometimes one may escape by manipulating, but in long run you are inviting more dangers. Interpersonal Relationship: While working in the Industries one must come across several colleagues of different categories and departments. To maintain relationship is must for better work culture, better output, and performances. On several occasions one has to meet others for several feedback and data. Relationship will bring your happiness. It wills easy your workload. Avoid criticism. Don`t be a fault finder. To err is human. Be a good listener: Listen more, speak less should be the motto. A good listener is always a good gainer. To make the practice to listen from all and to implement the suggestions what best one can do. Not to argue with anyone but to listen and then to convince if you can. If you can`t convince even though you are not at fault, not to be frustrated. In long run the truth will come out. To keep patience: During working, must have the patience to get the result, not to lose temperament also. Some matters take its own time and keep patience is the best solution.

| SEPTEMBER 2020

H R U P DAT E

Discipline:

Every officer, Engineer or any employee must follow punctuality. Frequent late comer or early goers, remaining absent in works are treated as bad habit. One must follow a good habit to come up as a perfect professional. This habit must me formed right from the school’s days. Juniors will follow a disciplined officer who shows the way.

be good leader. A good leadership quality can be achieved with proper personality, a “determined man”, a man with knowledge, hardworking, analytical abilities who can guide the colleagues and juniors. He himself must acquire sound knowledge regarding the function of his related works. He should be a problem-solving man than to play blame game. He must be a good judge of all works and a perfect administrator. His clarity and transparency while dealing juniors will be liked by all. People will obey him, love him. All these capacities are to be acquired by self-thought, by attending classes, by mixing in good companies, by listening from others, by knowledge sharing, and to some extent as educated by parents and teachers.

Be an able administrator:

Conclusions

Once an Engineer takes the charge of a shift or department, he must

(1) The Author has tried to point out the lacunas among the students es-

Everyone must work with discipline. To maintain order, to organise the force, discipline is must. Not to indulge in chatting or violent anywhere are taken as unlawful. Even chewing tobacco, smoking, spitting, littering is taken as breach of law. Punctuality:

pecially in the B&C Grade colleges although they dream extremely high. (2) Those students mostly learn the things after joining the Industries and repent if lagging in building career. (3) Because of the poor exposure, some students are unable to learn even after joining the Industries and even after working for several years. (4) The Industries today expect the hard-working young people with proper analytical approach, abilities to solve the problems. But many of them show extremely poor performances because of their poor knowledge and IQ. Hence, they get frustrated very soon. (5) Now the time has come for the Alumni of the concerned institutions to visit their respective Colleges and make the present students more alert, active and to create awareness for their better future. O R G A N I C FA B R I C

Organic Fabrics : Need of a Safe Environment The term Organic fabrics, also called Organic textiles are Eco friendly textiles. They are grown in controlled settings with no pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. Only natural fertilizers are used and the soil and water are monitored.

SWATI PATALI

VIDYA THAKUR

Student SVT College Of Home Science

Assistant Professor SVT College Of Home Science

| SEPTEMBER 2020

O R GCAONVIECR FS AT BO RR IC Y

environment. ntroduction

In the 21st century, we are now going through a lot of changes with respect to the environment and human life. Everyone is in a hurry and wants immediate results and instant solutions. Fast fashion has come into existence which is an additional cause of problems to our nature. Have we ever thought of our environment, which gives us abundantly and selflessly? Have we really thought of our health? Our ancestors were self-satisfied with what they had, and were thankful for what they got from nature, but are we? As humans we think more and demand more. We must acknowledge the harm done to the environment and unknowingly to ourselves! This is the time that we must realize our responsibilities towards nature. The use of organic textiles can contribute to controlling pollution and make products free from the toxic effects. This article reviews organic fabrics. Organic Fabrics The term Organic fabrics, also called Organic textiles are Eco friendly textiles. They are grown in controlled settings with no pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. Only natural fertilizers are used and the soil and water are monitored. If a fiber is “certified organic” its growing conditions have been monitored and certified by an agency from one of the several Organic Trade Associations worldwide. A fabric can be called organic as long as 95% of the fabric contains the organic fabric (Telio, 2014). Organic textile stresses on farming and processing that neither involves use of synthetic or chemical pesticides nor genetically modified or radiated plants. This in turn ensures minimum damage to

In order to safeguard our environment some preventive measures to be taken, using the technology that can maintain the balance of our eco system and make the resulting product free from toxic effects (Dr. S. Kavitha, 2015). Organic clothing is one such way where different designers and manufacturers are making developments in Eco-fashion. Environment friendly clothing is accepted by people of all age groups. Generally, there is no chemical retention from organic clothing (Nagpal, 2018). The use of organic fabrics in fashion is surely the future of this industry to flaunt the fabulous designs we like without harming the environment (Kasawlekar, 2016).

https://in.apparelresources.com/ business-news/sustainability/indian-companies-happy-rising-demand-organic-fabric/ Fig. 1. Tags of organic fabrics Cultivation and research on Organic Fibres The world of organic clothing has taken initiative for the better. The fibres can be grown in organic conditions to be used in the fabrics are Cotton, Linen, Hemp, Jute, Bamboo, Soy, Eucalyptus Tencel, Corn fibre, Banana fibre, Ramie, Silk, Wool Milk fibre and a few. Organic fabrics are primarily made from materials grown in compliance with organic textile standards like the Global

Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). These may be prepared from cotton, jute, silk, wool or any other material that is grown organically. For example: Organic cotton is grown in the farm that has been without the use of chemical pesticides and defoliants for at least three years. Fertilizers that are used in an organic textile include compost, manure, naturally derived mineral and plant fertilizers and crop rotation (Telio, 2014). Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu Madhya Pradesh, Orissa, Maharashtra, Punjab, are a states involved in organic textile production. University of Agricultural Science Dharwad in Karnataka is also a part of organic textile agriculture; the aim is the establishment of decentralized participatory cotton breeding programs that will allow the improvement of organic cotton in the future (Shreekant, 2014). “Paramparagat Krishi Vikas Yojana (PKVY)” a sub- component of Soil Health Management (SHM) scheme under National Mission of Sustainable Agriculture (NMSA) aims at development of models of excellence in organic farming through a mix of traditional wisdom and modern science in value chain mode to install sustainability, ensure long term soil fertility buildup, resource conservation and to offer safe and healthy food grown through organic practices without the use of agro- chemicals. PKVY also aims at empowering farmers through institutional development through clusters for not only in farm practices management, input production, quality assurance but also in value addition and direct marketing through innovative means. [3] Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), Mumbai is working for the development of Organic Cotton. | SEPTEMBER 2020

COORVGEARN ISCT O FR AY BRIC

Need for better environment It is claimed that ‘The garment industry accounts for around 10% of carbon emissions globally and is the second largest industrial polluter, after oil’ (Kasawlekar, 2016). Hence for a better living of all and as a social responsibility, we must understand these benefits. Benefits and Advantages of Organic Farming: •

No usage of pesticides or other chemicals

•

Organic farming produces very fewer CO2 emissions

•

Organic farming needs far less water thus saving it for another purpose.

•

Fabric is easily recycled without creating any waste residue in the land (Kasawlekar, 2016).

•

It helps in keeping agricultural production at a sustainable level.

•

It reduces the cost of agricultural production and also improves the soil health.

•

It ensures optimum utilization of natural resources for shortterm benefit and helps in conserving them for future generation.

•

It not only saves energy for both animal and machine, but also reduces risk of crop failure (Dabas, 2020).

There are a few limitations with organic farming such as: •

Organic manure on plant nutrient basis may be more expensive than chemical fertilizers if organic inputs are purchased.

•

Production in shifting to organic farming declines especially during first few years, so the farmer should be given premi-

•

um prices for organic produce.

Clothing, Jan 2018)

The guidelines for organic production, processing, transportation and certification etc are beyond the understanding of ordinary Indian farmer. (Dabas, 2020)

Rotative mode of cultivation is done for growing organic cotton which is a costly process. Moreover the total amount of cotton produced by such process yields 14-20% less crop in comparison to crops grown by using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Wearing organic clothes is more popular among upper-middle class and high- class people. It is the latest fashion fad. But considering it as a fashion would not serve the purpose of ecological conservation, therefore people should realize its benefits and make it a regular wear. If the demand increases the production would be increased, as a result the overall production costs will decrease. (Growing Market for Organic Clothing, Jan 2018)

Present Scenario Different types of garments are made from organic cotton, such as salwar-kameez, dupatta, skirts, short kurtis, t-shirts, shirts, etc. Its consumption has increased from past few years. However its market share is more in big and metropolitan cities like Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Delhi, Calcutta, Bangalore and Pune. Due to various ill-effects of chemically treated cotton fabrics on our skin, many NGOs, farmer groups and designers have began to spread its awareness amongst the common public. Organizations like Maharashtra organic farmers association, Vidarbha organic farmers association, etc offer help to cultivate such crops or themselves doit. (Growing Market for Organic Clothing, Jan 2018) In order to give organic clothing a boost an open house session is arranged for designers, farmers, retailers, researchers, etc having significant role in cultivating, processing, manufacturing and selling the organic clothes. Here Indian people associated with this field meet people from other countries. They share their ideas, viewpoints and discuss over how to improvise the whole process right from cultivation to selling of finished products. To start organic farming, farmers should have certification for it. But the main drawback which comes in the way of increased sales of organic fabrics is its- high price. Its price is double than the normal cotton fabric. (Growing Market for Organic

| SEPTEMBER 2020

The above discussion might put forth the message that organic cotton is the latest invention and was not used before, but the reality is that such cotton was cultivated in old times also, and it was widely worn till 1950s. There are certain regions in India where the farmers still grow cotton by traditional eco-friendly method. Suyodhar, Jayadhar, Khandesh, Nandicum, some hilly areas of north eastern region and Maljari are some of the places where it is grown. (Growing Market for Organic Clothing, Jan 2018) Cotton that is grown by irrigation using polluted water from factories is poised to create health hazards. Re-farming of organic cotton was first started in 1991 by Managing director of Maikaal Fibres Ltd.- Mr. Mrigendra Jalan and Mr. Patrick Hohmann (Managing director of Swiss cotton yarn trading company). Initially started with few handful of farmers, has now more than 1,000 farmers associated with organic farming. This movement

O R GCAONVI E C RF A SB TO R IRCY gained momentum when Coop which is the biggest retailer of ecological products in Europe, arranged the supply chain model of organic cotton. (Growing Market for Organic Clothing, Jan 2018) Efforts by the Designers to use Organic textiles for the sustainable fashion Many of the Indian designers have taken initiative to bring about conscious change to the fashion industry by putting the people and the planet before anything else and some of those are Livari, No nastie, Upasana, Ayurganic,Satva, AND, Shani Himanshu, Ruchika Sachdeva,.Shraddha Nigam And Mayank Anand, Anupamaa Dayal, Karishma Shahani, Paromita Banerjee, Aneeth Arora, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Anavila Sindhu Misra, Mia Morikawa. Many more are taking the world of fashion a step forward to morality. Certification and Labelling Certification obtains and maintains the highest level of integrity through its accreditations from numerous government and industry organisations. There are numerous certifications out of which 3 are given below. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) The worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. (Global Organic Textile Standard, 2019). The number of GOTS certified facilities showed yet the greatest rise ever from 5.760 to 7.765 in 2019, the highest figure so far and an increase of 35%. The GOTS certified facilities are located in 70 countries with

continuous growth in both production and consumption regions. Countries with the largest growth in GOTS certifications in 2019 (global-standard.org, 2019) The GOTS Protection Officer Otto Kersten held webinars with retailers and online shops to inform about correct labelling and how to identify GOTS certified brands to prevent trademark violations. Further, a resubmission (follow-up) system to handle complaints and a more detailed complaint form to receive qualified information have been implemented. (global-standard. org, 2019)

from the industry and retail sector, it has gained universal recognition, enabling processors and manufacturers to supply their organic textiles with one certification accepted in all major markets. With the introduction of the logo and labelling system the GOTS is already visible not only on the shelves of natural textile shops but large-scale retailers and brand dealers as well. This is a milestone in consumer recognition and a strong acknowledgement of our reliable quality assurance concept. (Global Organic Textile Standard)

Protection The GOTS Management is continuing its enforcement efforts to ensure reliability and accuracy in use of the GOTS certification mark for the textile industry, including mattresses, fashion, and all textile products globally. (global-standard.org, 2019) Comprehensive Rules for Ecological and Socially Responsible Textile Production The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed through collaboration by leading standard setters with the aim of defining requirements that are recognized world-wide and that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer. Since its introduction in 2006 the Global Organic Textile Standard has already demonstrated its practical feasibility. Supported by the growth in consumption of organic fibres and by the remarkable demand for unified processing criteria

https://amberoot.com/blogs/blog/ ensuring-top-quality-of-textilesused-in-your-clothing-introducinggots Fig. 2. GOTS Logo To identify an organic textile: If it is certified to an organic standard you can be sure it’s organic… just because a garment is labelled as green, sustainable or eco-friendly does not make it organic. Cotton clothing is only organic if it is certified to an organic cotton standard.

Fig. 3. Labelling of the product A survey was conducted in which a total 59 participated and the age group was between 20-35 years all around people from Mumbai and Navi Mumbai, with the following | SEPTEMBER 2020

O CO RG VE AR N IS CT F OARBYR I C

observations. The survey shows an awareness and consciousness about the organic textile product among the people from Mumbai and Navi Mumbai. Many of the consumers are aware and are using Organic Fabric who are satisfied with the outcome, people have started buying finding it comfortable, also realized that many of them are aware of the labelling, Few of them didn’t know about the concept, when explained to purchase an Organic Clothing item. Consumers are looking forward and making an effort to bring about a change in our Society. Conclusion Today Organic fabrics are becoming a part of the fashion scene. Many designers are coming out with eco-friendly attire, to promote sustainability. Quality has a vital role than how apparel looks or functions, which also includes the way it affects the environment and our lives. This means adopting such types of materials and processes that minimize the negative impact on the environment. The awareness

of organic textiles has consumers grown, which is beyond any doubt. The awareness should be at grass root level and the manufacturers/ designers so that all work effectively towards promoting organic textiles. There is certainly a promising future for organic clothing. References Dr. S. Kavitha, S. G. (2015, February). ECO FRIENDLY TEXTILES AND CLOTHING. Retrieved from http:// www.ijstm.com/images/short_ pdf/1422457932_458.pdf Nagpal, F. (2018, July).Organic Fabrics. Retrieved from https://thedesigncart.com/blogs/news/organic-fabrics Indian Journal of Fiber and Textile Research. (2001, March 26th). Retrieved June 28th, 2019, from file:///G:/21b9420ebbde2565246e4c7b05b2cab1ccd8.pdf KASAWLEKAR, L. (2016, December). Organic Fabrics And Other Green Technologies In Fashion. Retrieved from https://www.thevanca.com/organic-fabrics-and-oth-

Bera, A. (n.d.). ECOMARK SCHEME FOR THE INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY. INDIAN TEXTILES: ACHIEVING EXCELLENCE FOR GOING GLOBAL. https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/322757620_Growing_ Market_for_Organic_Clothing https://certifications.controlunion.com/en/about-us/certifications-accreditations https://sewguide.com/best-ecofriendly-clothing-fabrics/ https://vikaspedia.in/agriculture/ crop-production/organic-farming https://www.global-standard.org/ https://www.global-standard.org/ images/stories/Annual_Reports/ GOTS_AR_2019Public_lowres.pdf https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/322757620_Growing_ Market_for_Organic_Clothing

MEET YOUR PERFECT EMPLOYEE

We have a solution online with domain expert

Register FREE , add your position and skill requirement and get going! Jobseeker will get in touch with you very soon. We will promote your job vacancy in our social media to get and grab the attention of talented job seekers. | SEPTEMBER 2020

GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD.(2019, May). Retrieved from https://www.global-standard.org/ the-standard/revision-procedure. html

Tired of searching good talent ? Want to hire quality staff and skilled worker with specific domain knowledge?

er-green-technologies-in-+fashion/

FROM NEED TO AESTHETIC

MASKS- A JOURNEY FROM THE NEED TO THE GRANDEUR There are numerous ways through which these masks are creating a boom in the fashion world and helping them to become one of the category fashion accessories. Sooner this accessory will become chastely a fashion statement rather than a purpose of protection after this era of pandemic corona virus.

DHARA PADIA VISITING FASHION FACULTY

bstract

Covid 19 has made everyone wear the masks as one of the essential need. Surviving through this pandemic during this long period of lockdown wearing mask has now become a fashion statement. Masks been the need has taken a route to luxury as the period is passing by along with the corona virus.

wiched between the two layers which act as a filter and third one which is external and should be hydrophobic nature is that it doesn’t allow any pathogens to enter. The basic masks to help the public fight against this odd time of pandemic corona virus are Surgical masks, Fabric masks, N95 masks, respiratory valve masks.

the most part, we all now have to wear masks when we venture outside, and it’s not really surprising that the fashion has noticed the opportunity. Just like sunglasses and hats evolved from sun protection to fashion accessory, masks have born out of necessity and care for people around you.

Introduction Masks are on everyone’s minds and as a result it has become an accidental trend. During this pandemic COVID-19 time, to save ourselves from the currently spreaded corona virus fac. masks have become the most important part of our clothing. A mask prevents the wearer from inhaling pathogens and dangerous aerosols (dust, smoke, etc) by providing a physical filter between wearer and the environment. As per WHO, the masks used to save us from the corona virus has to have three layers. First layer attached to the mouth, which should be hydrophilic in nature, second layer sand-

But now it has been almost half of a year that we citizens are trying to cope with this virus. And now tired of lockdown period and the new routine of everybody’s life masks have taken a new aspect towards opulence, because of which people are buying masks to visage more than as need for an hour. But it doesn’t change the fact that for

Celebrities and influencers are joining the social media campaigns to fight this pandemic and encouraging people to wear masks to protect oneself and others through social medias by creating viral videos, reels, hashtags, etc. Designers and brands are producing modified masks to promote themselves and to embolden people to buy | SEPTEMBER 2020

FROM NEED TO AESTHETIC

and wear masks. People now have started selecting masks on basis of mutates in colour, prints, material, silhouette, surface embellishments, etc. Masks are also now available in categories of Designer masks, couple masks, bridal masks, kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; masks, calligraphic masks, etc. Some of the trendy fashion masks are shown below.

Sooner this accessory will become chastely a fashion statement rather than a purpose of protection after this era of pandemic corona virus.

References: Recommendations of world health organization for the corona virus during COVID 19. VOGUE, Christian Allaire, May 14 2020 Loma Linda university, Health department. Article by Janelle Ringes, August 11 2020.

There are numerous ways through which these masks are creating a boom in the fashion world and helping them to become one of the category fashion accessories.

https://www.google.com/

A P PA R E L F O R D I S A B L E D

A Sight For No Vision The disable people need to be independent and self relied. project would help the visually impaired know about their clothing on their own and it. It would improve their association with art and design. It would give a different perspective of how a surface ornamentation or weaving technique is not only decorative, but can be used as a means of communication.

APARNA SARDAR INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

bstract

Design just as any other language, has its own grammar and communication and clothes play a vital part in representing this. Unfortunately, it could be perceived only by people with vision ,though there are devices developed that aid mobility and communication to visually impaired people but there are only few of them that could help them in choosing and purchasing them.

Due to limited availability of services and products available in this particular section , I feel the motivation behind this project. As per earlier studies done on visually impaired peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choice of purchases it was found that the tactile feature on products add to appeal and act as the primary criteria for purchases. The sense of touch becomes more vision for the blind. Hence the design related information about their clothes can be given through Braille or embossed design as it would help them make their choices independently. Motifs and patterns are designed using embroidery and beads. [1]

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Introduction The number of social challenges blind people face daily limit the activities in which they can participate. Hence, New, effective methods of non-visual communication are needed for individuals who are blind or visually impaired in the modern world and as we know clothing is a very real form of communication. Unfortunately, this communication is only perceived by people with vision . In addition to the difficulty in navigating in unknown environments, blind people confront a number of social challenges everyday which limit the activities in which they can participate.

A P PA R E L F O R D I A B L E D Areas of relevance include tasks performed in the workplace, in educational settings, in the pursuit of leisure activities, in daily living, and navigating indoor/outdoor spaces. New, effective methods of non-visual communication are needed for individuals who are blind or visually impaired in the modern world. Clothing is an intense and very real form of communication. But, it is almost exclusively perceived using vision, especially on the part of the observer. The reliance on vision then results in fashion being difficult to translate to someone who is not sighted. Visual disability does not remove the strongly felt need to project a positive, attractive image and to maintain a high standard. [2]The number of social challenges blind people face daily limit the activities in which they can participate. Hence, New, effective methods of non-visual communication are needed for individuals who are blind or visually impaired in the modern world and as we know clothing is a very real form of communication. Unfortunately, this communication is only perceived by people with vision .There is a strongly felt need to be independent and self- reliant within every individual, including people with disabilities. This project would help the visually impaired know about their clothing on their own and it would improve their association with art and design. It would give a different perspective of how a surface ornamentation or weaving technique is not only decorative, but can be used as a means of communicationThe disable people need to be independent and self relied. project would help the visually impaired know about their clothing on their own and it. would improve their association with art and design. It would give a different per-

spective of how a surface ornamentation or weaving technique is not only decorative, but can be used as a means of communication. [3] Objective • To understand the problems faced by the visually impaired in context to their clothing. • To know the information the visually impaired need about theirclothes. • To study about the appropriate methods that could be used to providesubjective information related to clothes in a non-visual form. • To come up with a design solution that would make clothing more adaptable and informative for the visually impaired Ultimately there is a desire to “fit in” with the crowd, especially since devices such as white canes and guide dogs cause a person to stand out (often in an undesirable way).But one cannot see what others are wearing to know what it means to “fit in”. Most of the visually impaired people would not want any articles of clothing that stand out from what others are wearing. Rather than wanting clothing which somehow spoke to them differently, they want greater access to the current clothing. In the paper, Fashion for the Blind: A Study of Perspectives the authors mentioned “poor blind girl” concept. This refers to the idea that there is no room for error when it comes to fashion when you are vision impaired because if you do make an error then you will be looked upon with pity. As some amount of familiarity is required to interpret the representations, congenitally blind people are not being currently considered

as they do not possess any amount of visual memory. Due to the preferences and the inclination of women towards wearing clothing with textures and embroidery, the target user group would be women.[4] Limitations To understand the problems faced by the visually impaired in context to their clothing. To know the information the visually impaired need about their clothes. To study about the appropriate methods that could be used to provide subjective information related to clothes in a non-visual form. To come up with a design solution that would make clothing more adaptable and informative for the visually impaired. Significance of the research The disable people need to be independent and self relied. project would help the visually impaired know about their clothing on their own and it. It would improve their association with art and design. It would give a different perspective of how a surface ornamentation or weaving technique is not only decorative, but can be used as a means of communication Review of Literature The definition of vision impairment by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) says a visually impaired person’s eyesight cannot be corrected to a “normal level”. It may be said that visual impairment is the functional limitation of the eye or eyes or the vision system. [5] Globally, at least 2.2 billion people have a vision impairment or blindness, of whom at least 1 billion have a vision impairment that could have been prevented or has yet to be addressed. | SEPTEMBER 2020

A P PA R E L F O R D I S A B L E D

This 1 billion people includes those with moderate or severe distance vision impairment or blindness due to unaddressed refractive error, as well as near vision impairment caused by unaddressed presbyopia. Globally, the leading causes of vision impairment are uncorrected refractive errors and cataracts.The majority of people with vision impairment are over the age of 50 years.[6] Problems faced by visually impared people while purchasing clothes In a research paper named “Clothing purchases among visually impaired adolescents” the authors say Clothing selection is all the more difficult if the consumer is visually impaired. Identification of garments in terms of 1.Front/back and right/wrong side of the garment 2.Colour and Pattern selection 1. Upper and lower garment 2. Folding and arranging clothes These problems can be solved by designing suitable clothing for the disability as well as enhance their personality by improving their confidence with respect to clothing.[7] Methods followed by the visually impaired to identify their clothes This take help from family members, using plastic Braille labels or different types of stitching pattern tags on the clothes. The National Federation of the Blind Explains the way in which blind people identify their clothes

Fig : Braillie cloth identifier Source:https://visionaware.org/everyday-living/essential-skills/personal-self- care/organizing-and-labeling-clothing/1235/ Braille Clothing Identifiers: Durable and washable white plastic tags with braille. They can be sewn or pinned on to the garment. Each label contains just 2-3 braille letters [8] Consideration to be taken during cloth purchasing Though there are numerous devices available to help visually impaired people in daily lives. Example Braille tags with codes have been developed using smart phones have also been developed which can give the objective information ( price, wash care , size ) for the visually impaired consumers. which can give the objective information ( price, wash care , size ) for the visually impaired consumers. Hence there is a need of a system to match clothes with multiple colours and complex patterns to assist visually impaired and blind people by distinguishing both pattern and colour information In the paper, Fashion for the Blind: A Study of Perspectives the authors discuss on the role of colour and patterns in clothing choices. ” It was explained that colours were given certain associations by sighted parents or friends (such as pink for girls or red for fire) and this carried over into what colours the person would like to wear

| SEPTEMBER 2020

In a paper on Making Fashion Accessible for People with Vision Impairments, the authors discovered two distinct clothing related information needs: objective (e.g., colour and washing instructions) and subjective (e.g., whether a garment is appropriate for an occasion).[ 9] Methodology 1. Researching on data related to vision impairment and studying on the various specialized products that give solutiom for the visually impaired daily life problems for reading and writing. Braille is a tactile writing system used by the blind and the visually impaired. It is traditionally written with embossed paper . The basis of the Braille system is known as the Braille cell. The cell is comprised of six dots numbered in a specific order. Each dot or combination of dots represents a letter of the alphabet and there are 63 different cells not counting the space .Reading and typing is becoming more and more simpler for the visually impaired because of the technology [10] Apart from braillie tactile textures are also used in Special Multisensory toys and games. Tactile Art and Photography. Story books with Tactile graphics. • Improved web accessibility[11] Fig: Rubik cube designed for blind people

A P P A R E L FCOORV D E IRS A ST BO LE RD Y 1. Unnecessary details need to be reduced and perspective view of the object should be avoided. 2. Distinctive details of the object must be retained and clues related to the object must not be lost in translation. 5.1 Different techniques to create tactile texture Fig : Visually impaired person showing the shirt with embroidered Braille Source:http://www.ryersonfashion. ca/designsenior- project/alexa-jov anovic Small beads were added to the exterior of clothing to form phrases in Braille that communicate clothing characteristics to blind individuals, such as a garment’s colour, size and care content. This application of beading enhances the fashionable aspect of the garment for sighted individuals, while increasing its function beyond aesthetic value for blind individuals. [12] Analysis 1. Touch is a very strong sense for the Visually impaired.It is important to design for them keeping this “ability” as the core. 2. Subjective information needs like pattern or designht should be addressed. 3. Connecting the visually impared to their clothes through design 4. Embossed design with some textual clues would help the visually impaired to make their own choices.[13] Design Process According to the principles and guidelines of good tactile design

Embroidery 2.Fabric Manipulation 3.Heat setting 4.3D - printing 5.Woven textures

Fig : Embroidery french knot

Fig: Fabric Manupulation - Yo yo Patchwork Since they can relate red colour with fire but since they cannot feel the colour ,they need to feel the motif.

Fig. A T-shirt braille letters used which says fire Identifying sizes Lather punching can be done to emboss the braille letters Description : A concept that will help the visually impaired to identify the right size for their shoes without anyone’s assistance. Scope and Conclusion As it is understood visually impaired people need both subjective and objec•tive information related to their clothing,hence informa•tion in a form which it is understandable by them such as braille or tactile graphics, would make them more independent during their clothing selection and identification. This project has been initiated taking all the visually impaired into consideration except the congenitally Blind. a great scope for further research in terms of the plethora of problems that can be looked at apart the design related information needs. This would eventually let the visually impaired individuals to be independent in this context. References Story, MF (2001). Principles of universal design. In W. F. E. Preiser & E. Ostroff (Eds.), Universal design handbook (pp. 10.3-10.19). New York: McGraw-Hill Selecting and purchasing clothing: The experience of visually impaired people in Hong Kong. Journal of Visual Impairment & Blindness, 94, 34-42, Kaufman, A (2000). Clothing-selection habits of teenage girls who are sighted and blind. Journal of Visual Impairment and Blindness, 94, 527-532 Chang, H. J. J., Hodges, N., & Yurchisin, J. (2014). Consumers with disabilities: | SEPTEMBER 2020

WASTE MANAGEMENT

Adidas’ partnership with Parley for the Oceans

MANSI GAUTAM

Parley and its partners collect trash from the coastal areas around the world like the Maldives. The waste is then balled and sent to Adidas X Parley supplier in Taiwan where they separate PET bottles from other waste. The Parley x Adidas shoes are made out of PET used most commonly for water bottles, and nylon from gill nets retrieved off the coast of Africa.

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN good use.

Redesign – Drive eco-innovation around materials, products and new ways of using them with the ultimate goal of reinventing current plastic.

bstract

This article is all about how Adidas is putting an effort to save our earth from the threat due to the waste created from humans. I will discuss how they are doing this by incorporating new textile innovations. Adidas’ partnership with Parley for the Oceans, for recycling and removing the waste from the ocean. It has been an elemental part of the brand’s sustainability strategy. Keywords: Recycling textiles, Sustainability, Waste management. Introduction In 2015, these two companies teamed up to make sneakers which are entirely from the yarns recycled from ocean waste. Each pair of shoes is equivalent to 11 plastic bottles which mean Adidas had recycled 55 million plastic bottles that year. Made entirely out of waste, to create this shoe that puts plastic waste and illegally discarded gillnets found in the oceans to very

tive replacement for virgin plastic.

2.0 Parley for the Oceans Parley for the Oceans is a non-profit organisation. It is a network of creators, thinkers and leaders where they raise awareness for the cleanliness of the oceans and collaborate on projects that can end their destruction. It is a network of creators, thinkers and leaders where they raise awareness for the cleanliness of the oceans and collaborate on projects that can end their destruction. In 2015 Adidas supported Parley for the Oceans’ initiative and committed to the Parley A.I.R. Avoid – No use of single-use plastic and microbeads. Intercept – Prevent plastic from entering the ocean and recover existing threats. Turning the problem into progress with an eco-innova-

| SEPTEMBER 2020

3.0 How do they make it? Parley and its partners collect trash from the coastal areas around the world like the Maldives. The waste is then balled and sent to Adidas X Parley supplier in Taiwan where they separate PET bottles from other waste. The Parley x Adidas shoes are made out of PET used most commonly for water bottles, and nylon from gill nets retrieved off the coast of Africa.

WASTE MANAGEMENT They separate PET plastic bottles from the waste and other plastic waste like plastic rings and caps of the PET bottles as it cannot be converted into yarn and are sent off to regular recycling and the PET plastic bottles are converted into yarns. In the processing plant to Adidas, the first step is crushing, washing and dehydrating the waste. After dehydrating it is converted into small plastic flakes. The flakes are then heated, dried and lastly, it is cooled and then cut it into small pellets. After this, the pellets are melted to create filament which is then spun into a form of polyester yarn which is called Ocean Plastic. After this, it is converted into desired products. This is then used to form the upper portion of the shoes. These shoes are made out of almost 75% of plastic.

regular recycling and the PET plastic bottles are converted into yarns. The new material of Ocean plastic contains Polyethylene terephthalate (PET). which makes it a hard, stiff, strong, dimensionally stable, elastic material that absorbs very little water. It has smart gas barrier properties and smart chemical resistance except to alkalis. It is very strong and lightweight & hence easy and efficient to use.

new technology which talks about the circular economy. It introduces Futurecraft.Loop.

3.3 Current usage-

Adidas wants to make a material which is fully recyclable and should not harm our earth in any way. They want to end the concept of ‘waste’ entirely. Adidas is taking a linear method that leads merchandise to landfills at the tip of their lifecycle, and turning it into a circular system.

This material was introduced in the form of shoes in the market. But later on, Adidas incorporated this material into active sportswear. This material turned out into high-performance polyester yarn used in apparel and footwear.

3.1 What is PET? It is a type of plastic that’s available in many variations depending on specific applications like for industrial use, for the storage of liquid and other food items. They carry with it a polyester film with a scratch-resistant matte coating on one facet and a silicone polymer adhesive on the opposite.

3.2 Characteristic of PET – They separate PET plastic bottles from the waste and other plastic waste like plastic rings and caps of the PET bottles as it cannot be converted into yarn and are sent off to

3.3 Future usage – As discussed above this material has very good stiffness and it also has good strength, this material can be used in the automation textile and geotextile. The kind of stiffness and strongness geotextiles and automation textile required can be achieved by this material. It also has good elasticity and it is light in weight which makes it easier to use. Hence it can also be used in medical textile. 4.0 But does this solve problem of depleting environment? NO That is why Adidas came up with a

4.1 What is futurecraft lopp?–

It can be recycled again and again after every product life cycle ends. This process is unstoppable as it forms a complete loop of the circular economy. All elements begin from equivalent raw pellets of TPU, that are then processed into foams, yarns and films up when they have been worn, remelted and turn over pellets once more, you’ve got a pure TPU granulate, that you may then introduce into footwear producing.

4.2 What is TPU? TPU stands for thermoplastic polyurethane. TPUs are one type of plastic polyurethane and is considered to have elastic scratch resistance properties, as well as being transparent, and largely resistant to oil and grease. It also has a self-healing and breathability factor in it. | SEPTEMBER 2020

WASTE MANAGEMENT

4.3 What is the need for this material? Yarns of recycled PET mixed with natural fibres, rubber soles, combinations of bio-based and non-biobased foams. All these could result in granulates that are almost impossible to reuse. These shoes can best be incinerated to create energy or they will likely still end up in the landfill. Because of all this, Adidas focuses on mono-material and introduces Future Craft. Loop material. 4.4 How does it work? Adidasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new shoes use one material type and no glue is used to make it. Each component is made from 100% reusable thermoplastic polyurethane. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spun to yarn, knitted, moulded and clean-fused to a boost midsole using Adidas speed factory technology. The goal is to avoid plastic bags, microbeads, and eventually avoid more virgin plastic in the supply chain. The idea is to offer a high-performance running shoe that can be heavily worn, then returned, broken down and repurposed into a new version of the same pair of shoes. This is the only shoe that you can put in a grinding machine and then you get the chance to be able to apply it back into another shoe.

4.5 CharacteristicsThis material has a very high strength, durability and flexibility features. Its resistance against abrasion, water, and the chemical is also very good. Future Scope and ConclusionPresently, the company is using this material to manufacture shoes. According to the properties of material I have to conclude that this material can be used for upholstery fabric and other home linen fabric. As for upholstery, we need a strong and durable fabric that will be perfect for this use. This will also help eradicate waste. As it has good resistance to water, this fabric can also be used as flexible storage tanks for products like water, food (such as milk, wine and oils), pharmaceutical products, and all types of fossil fuels. Flexible storage is generally made up of polyester. This material can be a great innovation in the packaging industry. This material can replace the plastic bottles and tetra packaging which is used a lot in the packaging industry.

| SEPTEMBER 2020

Reference [1]https://www.azom.com/article. aspxArticleID=2047#:~:text=Polyethylene%20terephthalatehttps:// [2]www.linkedin.com/pulse/adidas-futurecraft-loop-mono-material-future-footwear-van[3]enter/https://www.fastcompany. com/90335038/exclusive-adidass-\ [4]radicahttps://consumergoods. com/adidas-introduces-100-recyclable[5]shoeshttps://www.indiatimes. com/technology/news/adidas-ismaking-11-million-shoes

M A C H I N E RY U P DAT E

Influence of Modified Yarn Path with Mechanical Compacting System to improve Spinning Efficiency

Padmanaban.P

Yarn Strength is the foremost property of yarn which affects the efficiency of spinning, yarn finishing, weaving, fabric finishing, and wear ability of clothes.

SENIOR PARTNER TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS

bstract

One of the Major factors contributing to Spinning efficiency is Strength of yarn and if we able to improve this parameter, the nett result will be a much better working of the ring spinning machines. The experiment stated below proves that yarn breaks during spinning is much lower when we are able to align the maximum number of fibers along the yarn axis and allow the twist flow up to the nip of the front roller. The fiber fleece is firmly bonded immediately after coming out of the front roller nip and thus the effort in reduction of spinning triangle is paying back. Introduction Yarn Strength is the foremost property of yarn which affects the efficiency of spinning, yarn finishing, weaving, fabric finishing, and wear ability of clothes. The factors affecting yarn strength include the physical and mechanical properties of fibres constituting the yarn as well as the spinning method and technology. Therefore, in the textile industry, yarn strength is the parameter most extensively studied to reduce

the end breaks and improve the spinning efficiency in Ring Spinning Frames. In this chapter, we will discuss about the influence of modified yarn path compare to traditional yarn path when we employ mechanical compacting system. Our study confirms that this out of the box thinking is working well with short stretch model Ring Frames like Zinser, Toyota and any Chinese models.

RoCos premium mechanical compacting system and allow the yarn to run in straight yarn path (regular) and Right diagonal (cross) yarn path (fig.1)

Experiment To determine how the yarn path will effectively influence the twist flow up to the nip of front roll delivery and bind the fiber firmly to improve strength and reduce the hairiness further with mechanical compacting system like RoCos. How this reduction in hairiness will improve the Quality of a yarn further. 30s Ne 100 % Cotton Combed Hosiery was selected and a controlled study was conducted to compare. Twist direction: Z twist Experiment no.1 We have conducted the trials inZinser-321-E Ring Frame with

(Fig. 1) Experiment no.2 We have also conducted trials in Rieter G32 Ring Frame with RoCos premium mechanical compacting system and allow the yarn to run in straight yarn path (regular) and Right diagonal (cross) yarn path (fig.2) | SEPTEMBER 2020

M A C H I N E RY U P DAT E

We have collected the samples from both type of Ring Frame at same stage and tested for quality parameters like U%, CVm, IPI/km, HSF/km, Single yarn strength(cN), and Tenacity (cN/Tex). Data were compared and analysed to understand the improvements.

In the RoCos premium mechanical compacting system the spinning triangle is reduced with the help of a guide placed in between main front top roll and a delivery top roll (20mm). However, the spinning triangle is formed on the front delivery top rubber roll (20mm) The front delivery top roll in this compacting system is placed in such a way that it is disturbing the yarn path and the untwisted fleece is not fully free to receive the twist immediately after it emerges from the front top delivery roller nip (fig. 4-(i)) The full benefit of twist flowing to the closest possible point with reduced triangle formed in this compacting system is obstructed because the spinning triangle is formed on front top rubber roll and angle of delivery.

will reduce the ends down and allow spinners to run the Ring Frame more efficiently. Benefits •

Production and Productivity improvements up to 15%

•

Pneumafil waste reduction from 2.5 to 1.75%

•

Machine cleaning and housekeeping improvements.

•

Yarn waste reduction in Autoconer due to a smaller number of clearer cuts

•

Autoconer efficiency improvements.

Manpower improvements.

Conclusion

The Right diagonal (cross) yarn path as shown in Fig 4-(ii) is better in allowing the twist to flow easily closer to the nip of the front top delivery roll due to increase in free spinning length and reducing the friction between fiber and front top delivery rubber roll. (See in enlarged area of fig. 5) Once the protruding fibers are twisted together, the yarn evenness and IPI level will improve automatically along with yarn strength. The improvement in yarn quality

| SEPTEMBER 2020

With the Right diagonal (cross) yarn path arrangement, there is an increased concentration of fibers in the right-hand side of spinning triangle due to the increased pretwisting of fibers. As a result, the pre-twisting effectively binds the fibers into the bulk of the yarn structure, thus reducing yarn hairiness. Right diagonal yarn path is effective in reducing hairiness for a Z-twist yarn while Left diagonal deteriorates hairiness results. Yarn quality improvements and performance of the machine will enhance the performance of the operations and reduce the cost of manufacturing.

W E B I N A R - N I R M A L A N I K EC TA ON V ECRO S LT LO EG RY E

DR. Ela Dedhia INCHARGE PRINCIPAL COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE NIRMALA NIKETAN

INTERNATIONAL WEBINAR – SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND PROCESSES

An International webinar on SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND PROCESSES was held on 4 th July, 2020 by the Department of Textile and Fashion Technology of College Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, Affiliated to University of Mumbai, NAAC Accredited A Grade. Delegates included students, teachers, professionals, and others related to this field at National and International level.

he webinar was inaugurated by Dr Geeta Ibrahim, Principal of the college where she appreciated the department for organizing the international webinar, she added that it is definitely the need of the hour. The term ‘sustainable’ is what we all have to look towards and work at. Dr. Ela Dedhia, Head of Department of Textile and Fashion Technology, gave an overview of the theme. She mentioned that each and every one present on this platform are having a common thread which is – Sustainability, in the form of raw materials used, or the processing, delivery and marketing of the merchandise. Wherever we are, we are connected to sustainability and are working toward the UN Sustainable Development Goals. Dr Dedhia moderated the panel discussion including the questions raised by participants on YouTube. She Welcomed all the participants on YouTube and gave a brief introduction of the panelist. Edfly was the Technical partner and Textile Value Chain was the Media Part-

ner. The webinar was conducted through online video platform and telecasted on YouTube for the audience. The Video is available on YouTube.com/TFTNN. There were two esteemed panelists during the webinar. Dr. Anagha Vaidya Soocheta, is Head of Department of Applied Sustainability and Enterprise Development, faculty of engineering, university of Mauritius. She holds 38 years of successful career as academician, researcher and administrator. She started her presentation mentioning about the 17 UN SDG goals which were unanimously adopted by the member states, with an aspiration to achieve it by 2030. Sustainability can be broadly defined as the ability of something to maintain itself by preserving resources and energy over a long term rather than exhausting them quickly in a short time. She quoted the definition for sustainability by Brundtland Commission of the United Nations, 1987 that meeting the needs of the present without

compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. In her talk she said that pillars of Sustainability are Economic viability, environmental preservation and social equity. Government has introduced new laws for companies and businesses. Millions of products are there in the market but few are fully sustainable and designers play a big role in product development where the made products will have minimum impact on the environment and also improve the society. So there should be effective planning and execution of sustainable product design by careful selection of raw materials, its efficient use, planning for the final disposal, shortening the production time and drive in new products and process of innovation with diversification. While talking about Green Production she said it helps to keep check on wasted resources in production to increase productivity. It also brings down cost and deduct impact on environment and focus | SEPTEMBER 2020

CWOEVBEI R N ASR T-ONRI R Y M A L A N I K E TA N C O L L E G E

on continuous improvement. Use fewer resources, whose waste also won’t be hazardous but at the same time the product formed should be of a better quality, in turn creating less or no waste. The product made should be fully recyclable, it should reduce waste, save energy source and increase product durability. She spoke about the life cycle assessment, also known as Cradle to Grave where the environmental impact is checked right from the raw material required for the product to its final disposal, an assessment is required at every stage to see the impact on the environment. Researches are being carried out at every stage to find new material and processes. Few examples were from the University of Mauritius, Department of Applied Sustainability and Enterprise Development, on Processing and Transforming Kitchen Fibrous Wastes into Lifestyle Products. In this research the kitchen waste was transformed to value added products which included nursey pots, pencils with fragrance, coasters, candles, etc. Another project was Biogas Production from organic household waste, which did generate a good amount of gas. Up cycling Waste Cooking Oil into Soap was one more project, which is a sustainable alternative to prevent the wrong disposal of waste cooking oil that causes serious impact to the environment. The waste oil collected from industry and food outlets was filtered and purified with ginger to improve the quality of the oil followed by saponification process. Similarly, there were many other valuable projects, for which prototypes were made. She concluded with a statement that ‘We will be affected in some way by the choices we and our soci-

ety make regarding the earth and its resources and how we can preserve the earth and ensure the continued survival of future generations’. Dr. Madhu Kothari, was the next speaker who is currently living in London, and working as a designer and coordinates garment production. She has completed Ph.D with topic - Animal Adornment of Kutch and Rajasthan. She talked about Designing, Merchandising and Production from commercial point of view, where she described in detail the process and important aspects of it as carried out in UK. First point which she mentioned was that it is not easy to bring sustainability into commercial use. Starting with designing, the customer directs the whole designing and production process. Inspiration for the design comes from the customer side and WGSN trend forecast helps the company to guide further. Brands and companies which cater to fast fashion, they take inspiration from the fashion shows across the world. While the merchandiser too plays an important role in the designing aspect, the study of the past sales records and reports which shape (silhouettes) is in more demand with respect to what size, colour and fabric got sold the most. She also mentioned that shape, size, colour fabric, trims are important aspects but along with that the price factor should also be taken into consideration. When a design is made it undergoes many changes as per the correction and comments from the buyer and customers, so the back and forth process and cost factor are inter connected. While talking about sustainability Dr. Madhu mentioned that first of all there are very few recycled fabrics that are easily available for commercial use, secondly the major

| SEPTEMBER 2020

and the most important question is whether the customers are ready to accept products made by recycling. Another aspect of sustainability is that, if the designers are in UK and production is done in China, the back and forth process of sending the correction of the sample does not makes the process sustainable. She also added that sustainability and recycling cannot be achieved in a day, it’s a journey. For any product to be 100% sustainable, all the materials that go into the making right from threads, to trims to tags must be recyclable. Making use of recycled fabric for fashion products is the recent development but with commercial perspective there are many challenges as the manufacturer of the recycled fabric requires large order quantity and secondly its also have the cost factor. The most important point which she mentioned in the webinar was that the mindset of the customer must change. Due to fast fashion, customer wants good products yet cheap and do not like to repeat the garments. When this mindset of customer will change, it will automatically bring in the sustainability aspect. She ended the presentation by presenting the recycled collection made by her company, and how the fashion influencers helped in marketing of these products. The session was very enlightening and it briefly touched upon various minute but major factors involved in sustainability with commercial perspective. After the presentation from both the speakers, there was an interactive question and answer session where the questions from YouTube as well as from zoom were answered. Dr. Dedhia also mentioned that Sustainability at every stage is the buzz word!

S U R AT R E P O R T

ASHISH GUJARATI PRESIDENT PANDESARA WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY LTD

Surat Textile Industry Revival post lockdown -Need for Improved Labour availability

ackground

Surat is the largest domestic consumption centre of man-made yarns & fibres, with fabric production of over 3.5 Crs. Mtrs/day. Textile Industry is a major employment provider in Surat with around 450 Process houses, 850 Warp Knitting Machines, 1600 Circular Knitting Machinea, 78000 Auto looms & ~ 6.6 Lakh Plain Power looms in operation, with around 177 Textile markets operating fully in a normal situation. Majority textile industry in Surat operates in a fragmented and decentralized way with SME sector units forming bulk of the Production capacities. Approx. 10-12 Lakhs Migrant labourers, majorly from the states of Bihar, Rajasthan, Odisha & Uttar Pradesh, have a significant role in the Surat textile industry operations. Impact of Covid-19 Lockdown on Surat Industry Textile Industry in Surat remained practically shut from March last week till end of May-20, due to lockdowns to prevent spread of covid-19. Majority of the migrant labours returned to their native states during the lockdown period.

Phased relaxations in lockdown from end May-20 resulted in partial start-up of textile units in Surat. However, operating rates of all the segments remained very low due to lack of retail demand and unavailability of migrant labour. Some clusters of Textile units produced Masks & PPE gears during the lockdown, for govt orders, with minimum available labour. Slow Paced Operations Revival Post Unlock Phase 1 With Unlock Phase 1 starting from June’20, textile units across India re-started their operations. Surat, however has been the slowest in terms of revival of operations and started gaining marginal pace only in second fortnight of Aug’20. Other Major textile Markets have improved their operational efficiencies significantly with Tarapur, Silvassa (Knitting based operations) at ~60-70%, Bhiwandi/Ichalkaranji/Malegaon at ~50-70%, Northern markets of Ludhiana & Panipat (Mink & Shearing based) operations at ~70-75%, Bhilwara, Mau, Tanda & Varanasi at 50-60% & even Southern markets of Elastic Tape, Weaving, Knitting & Garmenting in Tirupur, Erode, Karur & Salem at around 65% operations.

Surat Operations are still reeling at 30 % in Plain Power looms, 35 % in Warp knitting, 50% in Circular knitting & processing and around 60% in the Waterjet, Rapier & Air Jet segment. Slow paced reverse labour migration is a major limiting factor for Surat Industry operations revival, and the Industry apex bodies like ‘SGCCI’ & other Industrial & Textile Market associations need to take up this issue with local administration & ‘Govt. of Gujarat’ on priority basis. Surat industry is at the risk of losing its leadership position in the Indian textile industry due to this delayed operational revival, and fast track reverse migration is the need of the hour. Recommendation We recommend to fast track the process of reverse labour migration with increased availability of rail, road & other Public transport options from the states of Bihar, Odisha, Rajasthan & Uttar Pradesh. This step is very crucial to improve the labour availability situation in de-centralised textile business and regain the domestic leadership position in textile market as in the Precovid-19 Era. | SEPTEMBER 2020

CYO AV RENR RSETPOORRYT

Nitin Madkaikar

Basic textile exports up in August, but loses tempo

On a cumulative basis, exports were still down 17% in the first five months of 2020-21, compared same period a year ago. The first two months were under strict lockdown and production suffered as a result.

n August, basic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment was up 2.9% YoY in terms of US$ worth US$483 million or INR3,577 crore, accounting for about 2.9% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The increase was mainly led by sharp increase in fibre export, particularly cotton and at a very moderate pace by spun yarns. On a cumulative basis, exports were still down 17% in the first five months of 2020-21, compared same period a year ago. The first two months were under strict lockdown and production suffered as a result. Globally, most markets were also under restrictions, hence orders were either cancelled or postponed.

Spun / filament Yarn Spun yarns shipment totaled 114 million kg worth US$289 million or INR2,140 crore. They were 19% higher than August 2019 in terms of volume and mere 2.5% up in terms of US$. Bangladesh was the

largest market for spun yarns in August with value up 81%, followed by China (-4%). These two markets accounted for about 38% to total yarn shipment during the month. Cotton yarn export was 94 million kg worth US$234 million (INR1,732 crore). These were shipped to 73 countries at an average price of US$2.49 a kg, up US cent 1 from previous month and US cents 53 down from a year ago. Bangladesh was the top cotton yarn market, followed by China, Portugal, Peru and Vietnam. A steady price maintain levels just above previous year. 100% manmade fibre yarns exports of 6.17 million kg, comprising 2.61 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.90 million kg of acrylic yarn and 1.54 million kg of viscose yarn. Polyester yarn export was worth US$5.3 million or INR39 at an average price of US$2.03 per kg in August. USA was the largest market followed by Turkey. Viscose spun yarns export was worth US$4.40 million and exported at an average unit price of US$2.85 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Bangladesh and USA. Blended spun yarns worth US$40 million were exported in August, including 9.5 million kg of PC yarns and 2.5 million kg of PV yarns. Egypt was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Peru while All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 49 million kg, valued at US$65 million or INR485 crore. Nylon exports con-

| SEPTEMBER 2020

tinued to show increases in August while viscose showed sharp decline (54%). Polyester filaments export was also down 41% during the month. Cotton

Cotton fibre shipment in August continued to surge with volume at 410 thousand bales worth INR682 crore or US$92 million. This takes the total export to 56.43 lakh bales worth US$1,443 million in the first 11 months of 2019-20 marketing season. Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton export during the month, followed by Brazil and China. Export price realisation averaged INR97.85 a kg or US cents 59.89 per pound during August. This was much lower compared to Cotlook A index, the global spot price benchmark and just below domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6. During the month, Cotlook averaged US$70.41 per pound and Shankar-6 was at US cents 60.69 per pound, keeping Indian cotton competitive in global market.

ECONOM C IOCV E AR N ASLTYOSRI Y S

Sectoral Economic Analysis Today India is ranked the seventh largest economy, and third largest in terms of Purchasing Power Parity (PPP). The Indian economy’s GDP is pegged at $ 2.9 tn.

Vridhi Bhagnari INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

bstract On 15th August 1947, when India got independence from the British rule the country rejoiced and celebrated. But sooner or later a realization came into picture where India had to independently build itself, its economy and its global importance. The people faced distress but then they realized that India did not need a foreign land dominating the country’s land to manage it. After Independence, systematically organizing the economy became a major challenge for the government. However, by 1956 many important and strategic decisions were taken which are still shaping the India economic journey. Today India is ranked the seventh largest economy, and third largest in terms of Purchasing Power Parity (PPP). The Indian economy’s GDP is pegged at $ 2.9 tn. Sector means the division of one whole subject into sub-divisions. Sectors exist mainly to help divide one huge subject into various sub-divisions. It also helps to understand and evaluate the performance of an individual sector.

The economic sector can be defined as the area of an economy in which various businessmen work. The business might be same or different from each other. The economy represents the growth and development of the country as a whole. It is believed that a county’s economy is divided into 5 sectors. They are: 1) PRIMARY SECTOR The primary sector is mainly involved in extracting and harvesting the natural products of the earth. The activities are called Agriculture, Mining and Forestry. The primary sector is also known as extraction sector. The extracted materials are renewable such as fish, wool and wind power or non-renewable in nature such as oil extraction, mining for coal. The primary sector is the key part of a country’s economy. 2) SECONDARY SECTOR The secondary sector is mainly involved in manufacturing, processing and constructing. Basically, the secondary sector produces finished goods from the raw materials which were extracted by the primary sector. The raw materials are in turn converted in to high value-added finished goods. Due to the improved technology, the cost incurred by the secondary sector for production

and labour has been reduced. 3) TERTIARY SECTOR The tertiary sector is mainly involved in companies that provide services to the public directly. Tertiary sector is also called the Service sector. The good manufactured by the secondary sector are distributed to the direct consumers by the tertiary sector. This sector consists of retailing the manufactured goods. Due to improved labour productivity and high paid incomes, the tertiary sector has grown and developed. 4) QUARTERNARY SECTOR This sector involves companies working in intellectual pursuits such as educational businesses. This sector is to be called the intellectual aspect of the economy or the knowledge economy. The intellectual services provided this sector help to drive technological advancement. The various activities involved in this sector are educating, training, development of technology and research and development. 5) QUINARY SECTOR The sector is mainly involved in making top-level decisions. The different types of decisions made | SEPTEMBER 2020

CEO CV OENRO M ST IC O RAYN A L Y S I S

range from the head of a family to making decisions for the society, economy. They are the 5 main sectors of an economy. Even though these sectors are divided, there are sub-divisions of the economy. Latest news about the economy: https://economictimes.india times.com/markets/expert-view/ saurabh-mukherjea-on-3-sectorswhere-we-could-see-a-multi-yearstrong-rally/articleshow/77906253. cms?frm=mailtofriend&intenttarget=no SUB-DIVISIONS OF THE ECONOMY: ( Prices are as on the closing prices of 18th September, 2020) • AUTOMOBILE INDUSTRY The automobile industry basically means the business of producing and selling self-powered vehicles. The types of vehicle might be passenger car, trucks, farm equipment’s and other commercial vehicles. As to manufacture these vehicles, the automobile industry needs steel, oil and many other materials. The auto-industry has become one large sector which employs a huge amount of people, thus is considered as a key determinant of economic growth in a country India has the 5th largest automobile market in the world, India has reached the sales level of 3.81 million unit. In 2019, it became the 7th largest manufacturer of commercial vehicles. The two-wheelers segment has dominated the market in terms of volume. This segment was most demanded by the growing middle class and the young population. The growing interest of the population in this sector has made various companies gain interest in this sector and have offered to help the sector expand by provid-

ing two-wheelers in rural markets too. This idea helped the sector grow and give a positive side. India is an exporter as well as an importer. Even though India imports, the exporting business has been prominent. It is expected in the near future that India will build strong export growth. Several initiatives have been taken by the Government and major automobile players in the Indian market, and thus it is expected that India will become a leader in the two-wheeler and four-wheeler market across the world. DISRUPTIONS CAUSED BY CORONAVIRUSThe Covid-19 pandemic has caused a huge impact on the global automobile markets very quickly. It has caused a huge pressure on this industry which has eventually led to a downshift in the economy and global demand. The pressure might force various companies to get indulged in merger and acquisition activities. 1. Shortage of vehicle parts: China is a massive supplier of vehicle parts to all the parts of the world. Due to lockdowns of various countries and the border lines being shut, it has led to disruptions in the supply chain and thus caused shortage of required parts. 2. Halting the manufactures of vehicles: Due to limited supply of parts and a reduced workforce, it has forced many manufacturers to halt the production. This measure taken by the Original Equipment Manager (OEM) is to secure the liquidity and thus not cause overproduction even though there has been a decrease in sales. 3. Drop in liquidity: Due to drop in sales and manufac-

| SEPTEMBER 2020

turing, many companies are facing a decline in their cash flow. Companies are failing to meet their shortterm liabilities and salaries which have to be paid to their employees. The cash reserve maintained have been exhausted. The companies have failed to minimum generate their working capital requirements. 4. Government aids might be necessary to prevent bankruptcies and job losses, including funding for short-term work, short-term financing, tax deferrals, etc. The Index value of NIFTY AUTO went down to Rs.4452. Current price as on 18/09/’20 is of Rs. 8161.70 Latest news about the automobile industry: https://www.business-standard. com/article/automobile/autosales-bounce-back-in-auguston-low-base-effect-pent-up-demand-120090101705_1.html • BANKING SECTOR The banking sector is also called the financial sector of an economy. The sector is mainly involved in holding of financial assets and investing those financial assets as a leverage in order to create more wealth. The sector mainly handles cash, credit and other financial transactions. To the public, banks are considered as a safe place where an individual can keep their extra money saved. The sector is also involved in banking activities such as insurances, mortgages, investor services and credit cards. Banking is considered as one of key driver of an economy. The banking sector derives its working capital by earning interest. This interest earned is the difference between the interest rate offered and the interest rate asked for.

ECONOM C IOCV E AR N ASLTYOSRI Y S The different types of banks are:

sive/articleshow/77932751.cms

1) Commercial Banks

• CONSTRUCTION SECTOR

2) Retail Banking

The construction sector is mainly involved in the process of making something, the occupation of building or the way that something is put together. After agricultural sector, the construction sector is the 2nd largest employer in India. This sector contributes an average of 8% to the economy. The techniques involved in the assembly and erection of such building structures serve the purpose of providing shelter. The construction sector is mainly involved in building materials, plants and equipment’s. These are generally purchased or hired from other enterprises. For certain specialized services, labour or labour agents are supplied by the contractors. A constructer also helps the contractor in choosing an appropriate professional entity for the designing of the building.

3) Community Banks 4) Online Banking 5) Savings and loan banks 6) Investment Banking DISRUPTIONS CAUSED BY CORONAVIRUSThe fact that the pandemic will drastically affect the banking sector cannot be denied. Due to a halt in the world’s trades, this sector has also slowed down. Banks are struggling to meet their basic working capital requirements, which is their main source of earning. In the lockdown period where the economic activities are on a lower side, borrowings in the form of loans are very low. The government gave a 3-month grace payment option but this method might also lead to a rise in the NPA’s- Non-Performing Assets. Job employments have decrease, lakhs of people have lost their jobs, this means even after the 3 months period the loans taken have to be repaid but the question arises How?

The Index value of NIFTY INFRA went as low as Rs. 2072.60 Current price as on 18/09/’20 is of Rs. 3218.50 Latest news about the construction sector:

The 5 main sectors of construction are1) Residential construction.

• CONSUMER DURABLES

2) Heavy Civil construction.

The consumer durables sector includes appliances such as televisions, refrigerators, air conditioners and washing machines. These goods cannot be used up all at once, it keeps on providing services for a longer period of time. The products under durable goods have a minimum life expectancy of 3 years. Instruments such as microwave, grinder, ovens which are basically used in the kitchen are also considered as consumer durables. Watches, jewellery are also considered as consumer durables. Growing awareness, easier access and changing lifestyles have been the key growth driver of this industry. The market of this sector is steadily growing at Rs. 300 million. The sec-

3) Industrial construction. 4) Environmental construction.

The index value of NIFTY BANK went down to Rs. 16116.25.

Due to the fear of coronavirus infection, 30% of the labourers denied reporting at the site of construction even though they were ordered to do so. The contractors also did not take part in forcing the labourers to do so as safety concerns are more important. It is expected that there will be a reduction in both supply and demand of land due to the pandemic. Due to a halt in the current

Latest news about the Banking sector: https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/industry/banking/ finance/banking/reserve-bank-ofindia-rejigs-priority-sector-guidelines-to-make-banking-more-inclu-

construction sites, the contractors are facing a huge loss. It was lately realized that retail contractors as they do not have a supply of cement but cement companies have a huge stock of cement in their production. This means there has been lack of communication and has decreased transportation of the required materials. The halt in on-going projects have led to rise in the overall cost of the project. It is also predicted that the cement demand is to decline by 45-50% in FY 21 due to covid-19.

https://economictimes.india times.com/industry/indl-goods/ svs/steel/construction-activitycan-be-fast-tracked-via-lgs-construction-technolog y/articleshow/77804021.cms

Coronavirus has challenged the traditional method of banking. Although it has boosted and fuelled the movement of the country towards digital banking.

Current price as on 18/09/’20 is of Rs. 22031.05

5) Commercial construction. DISRUPTIONS CAUSED BY CORONAVIRUS-

| SEPTEMBER 2020

CEO CV OENRO M ST IC O RAYN A L Y S I S

tor is further classified in to 2 parts. They are: 1) Consumer Appliances. 2) Consumer Electronics. DISRUPTIONS CAUSED BY CORONAVIRUS: The consumer durable sector has been highly dependent on China for various products but the supply chain has been disturbed now. This may lead to rise in the product prices. The sales level dropped by 55% in March. Due to the fear of the virus, various shops declined to reopen as the nationwide lockdowns continued. The Index value of BSE Cons Durable went as low as Rs. 16699.02 Current price as on 18/09/’20 is of Rs. 24081.87 Latest news about consumer durables: https://economictimes. indiatimes.com/markets/stocks/ news/stock-market-update-bseconsumer-durables-index-gains600-points-titan-jumps-5/articleshow/77908321.cms Due to the widespread of Covid-19 in the world, many businesses, industries and sectors have witnessed a down-fall. In order to understand how and how badly they are affected, please continue reading below. •METAL SECTOR: The metals and mining sector has been in the forefront of a nation’s economy and India is no exception. For a country’s development, both ferrous and non-ferrous metals are equally important. This also in turn helps to build up a country’s future. There are 2 types of metals- Ferrous and Non-ferrous. FERROUS METALS:

Ferrous metals mean a compound which contains iron as one of its ingredients. The iron can be is an oxidation state. Outside chemistry, “ferrous” means generally “containing iron”, it is derived from the Latin word Ferrum. Ferrous metals have a high carbon content which makes it almost impossible to rust, except for some few exceptions.

China has been resolving the crisis for its own countries and imports and exports might begin, a rise in the price of these commodities are expected in the coming quarters.

Example- Alloy steel, carbon steel, cast iron and wrought iron.

SEPTEMBER 2020

Articles inside

ECONOMIC ANALYSIS

Basic Textile Exports Up In August But Loses Tempo

WEBINAR- NIRMALA NIKETAN COLLEGE

Influence Of Modified Yarn Path With Mechanical Compacting System To Improve Spinning Efficiency

SURAT REPORT

WASTE MANAGEMENT

A Sight Of No Vision

HR UPDATE

Organic Fabrics: Need Of A Safe Environment

FROM NEED TO AESTHETIC

GREEN NEW DEAL”: A Paradigm Shift For The Textile Industry

Local Is Luxury

Clothing from Cocona Fibre

Hit by The Pandemic, Standing for #VocalForLocal

VOCALFORLOCAL...except for the handloom sector?