Professional Beauty May-June 2022 by The Intermedia Group

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MAY•JUNE 2022 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

ARE YOU SUSTAINABLE? Why going green is great for business ORGANIC SKIN PRODUCTS TO WATCH

A professional can appreciate the beauty of the Payot Gift With Purchase Program Every 30 days while Payot revitialises your clients skin, the Gift Program energises your business. New gifts, new promotions and consumer advertising are excusively dedicated to the salon professionals and their customers. Join us for a gift with purchase program that continues to bring customers back to your salon. For full details of the 12 month Payot Gift With Purchase Program call 02 9874 1166 or 1300 367 969.

www.payot.com | join us

payotaustralia

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BEAUTY & SPA I N S I D E R S 12 September 2022

Guest speakers include: SARAH HUDSON Founder and Director Skin By Sarah Hudson

DR YUMIKO KADOTA MBBS (Hons) BSc (Med) Hons I Director Sydney Face Doctor

DOUGLAS PEREIRA Founder Douglas Pereira Skin Health

Join us for

Australia’s Premier Beauty and Mediaesthetics Event The third instalment is returning to Sydney. BEAUTY & SPA Insiders is our celebration of the Australian beauty and medi-aesthetics industry – showcasing talent, innovation and creativity.

SUZIE HOITINK RN FACN Co-Director and Senior Consultant Htnk Consulting

Join us for presentations and panels from industry leaders and get ready to explore the latest trends, technologies, and news

DR MARTINA LAVERY BDS Clinician and Owner Martina Dental And +Aesthetics

from well-loved and upcoming brands. Designed to inspire, BEAUTY & SPA Insiders also provides the opportunity to connect and celebrate with like-minded

ERE PEREZ Founder Ere Perez Natural Cosmetics

OTTO MITTER Managing Director Elleebana

professionals from across the industry.

12 September 2022 Hinchcliff House, Sydney www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

Tickets are on sale now CATHY TOLPIGIN Founder and Curator The Green Edit

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

contents

40 MAY/JUNE 2022 9 10 12 20 22 26 28 30 32 34 36 40 42 54 56

Editor’s letter What’s on PB radar News Beauty Investigation Cover Story - Dermalogica Skincare - Face Oils Sustainable Brands Skincare - Healing Products Skincare - Neck & Decollete Makeup - Smokey Eyes New Products The Met Gala Makeup Trends Talking Point - The Sustainable Stance ABIC - Sustainability BSI Speaker Lineup

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58 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 82 84 86 88 90

Salon Profile Meet Waste Revolution Style File - Cathy Tolpigin Profile - Gry Tomte Venus Concepts Skinfluencer Beauty Blackbook Interiors - QED salon Kitomba Talking Beauty with Hannah Gay Career How I Got Here Wellness - Beauty Tools Profile - Nektar Tax Time - Mark Chapman Diary

On THE COVER

Dermalogica's global CEO Aurelian Lis chats about the brand's sustainable initiatives and it's plans to encourage skincare companies to embrace a greener future on page 22-24.

editor's letter THIS ISSUE is dedicated to the brands and skincare founders who have taken the initiative to ‘go green’ and who believe in leaving a cleaner environmental footprint for the future. The skincare industry is a large landscape with so many competitors – I have always been a bit sceptical about brands claiming to be saving the planet and those that are “organic” or claim to have “no nasties”. These buzz words can be a great selling factor but is sometimes hard to measure – what does it really mean and which companies have put their money into really making a difference from their production

PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN Simon Grover MANAGING DIRECTOR Craig Hawtin-Butcher chawtinbutcher@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Julie Davidson jdavidson@intermedia.com.au ART DIRECTOR Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au ONLINE & SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Hannah Gay hgay@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY WRITER Shania O'Brien sobrien@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper

processes to packaging? In this Sustainablity Issue we tracked down company founders who are transparent about their practices and reveal how they have made changes to their formulations and their plans for the future. Every action counts to help the environment. For the cover story I interviewed the Global CEO of Dermalogica Aurelian Lis on page 22, who reveals the company’s sustainability journey and plans for the future. We also chatted to skincare founders and market leaders in Talking Point (page 42) who all agree it starts with small steps to go green as they reveals the rewards of helping leave the planet a better place for the next generation. As always we want you, our reader to be informed, inspired and educated – so take a look at the amazing lineup for our much anticipated Beauty & Spa Insiders Event on September 12 on page 56. Don't forget to purchase your tickets at www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au. Enjoy the read! FOLLOW US:

CONTRIBUTORS

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

Chris Lam and Harry Smith We met the duo behind Australianborn sustainability business Waste Revolution - a company aiding beauty brands on their journey to a more environmentallyfriendly future. “You can't manage what you haven't measured, so we always say the best place to start is by measuring your plastic footprint and looking at which products in which areas of your business are going to use virgin plastic or hard-to-recycle flexible plastics, and really having that detailed audit of your plastic use. Read their story on page 62.

Cathy Tolpigin

Daniel Isaacs

One of our Beauty Spa Insiders speakers reveals why she set up the Green Edit on page 64.

The founder of Medik8 reveals why comesceutical brands have a role to play in going green.

“The Green Edit’s purpose is to incite change by showcasing only the best clean beauty and lifestyle brands in a way that’s transparent and considered. We shine a light on the best organic and natural makeup, skincare, hair products, fragrance, nail care, sunscreen, lifestyle and inner beauty supplements."

“Sustainability is often assumed to be the remit of “natural” skincare brands. However, it is important that the beauty industry recognise the role cosmeceutical brands have to play in contributing to a more sustainable industry.”

BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

ON OUR THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON

MADE WITH MACADAMIA

Macadamia nut oil is an up-and-comer in the skincare and cosmetics space. The oil is presently a sought-after specialist niche product that can be used as a carrying agent for skincare products, aromatherapy and therapeutic oils. “Macadamia oil is also a sustainable substitute for other oils such as coconut and palm oil, commonly used in cosmetic products, with more manufacturers looking to include macadamia oil as part of their eco-friendly credentials,” said General Manager of Marquis Marketing Charles Cormack. Avilla Farm Macadamia Skin Care is a family-owned brand based in Northern New South Wales. The brand stocks multiple products that hero macadamia oil such as a face scrub, hand and body lotion, and face oil. “Macadamia oil mimics the natural oils on your skin so it suits most skin types. It is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin E and soaks in easily to your skin to instantly hydrate it. With only one plant based ingredient and nothing added to it, it is so natural you could eat it!” said Avilla Farm about the face oil. A range of Dr. Hauschka products also contain macadamia nut oil because of the ingredient’s quick-absorbing ability that provides skin with a protective finish and also smooths out imperfections for easy application. Their soothing mask for sensitive and irritated skin promises to provide comfort and radiance to skin prone to stress-induced redness, while their foundation and concealer combines mineral pigments with nourishing botanical ingredients such as pomegranate, macadamia nut oil and coconut oil to hydrate and protect skin.

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NEW SALON BRANDS LAUNCH

Launching this season are two new skincare brands looking to extend their presence in salons across the country. Boutique British brand Jane Scrivner (The Natural Skincare Co 0439 370 435) has arrived with a line of natural and organic formulations. ANZ distributor Georgina Webster describes the award-winning line: “with antioxidant protection and free radical mopping, [the brand] is rebalancing, nurturing, replenishing, nourishing and hydrating, with a totally relaxing treatment that’s specifically designed to complement the retail line.” Targeting a different skin altogether are the founders of BUTT’NE, Sarah Grace and Kiyomi Booth (hello@buttne.com.au) - Brisbane-based beauty therapists who recently launched with a three-step treatment pack specifically designed to treat acne on clients’ derrières. “Because our facial skin is thinner than that on the body and the body's fat layer beneath the skin is thicker, it has a naturally occurring, slower skin cell turnover rate, which often results in drier, thicker, and scalier skin,” explains the duo. “In turn, the perfect environment is created for ingrown hair and clogged pores in unbreathable areas! BUTT’NE is formulated much stronger than regular facial skincare to give power-packed results for the dense, thickened skin on the booty and surrounds. It’s designed by someone who has spent 15 years treating acne in-clinic, so we know exactly what this skin truly needs.”

PB radar

SOTHYS GOES ORGANIC

French skincare brand Sothys has released the Sothys Organics line. The range incorporates ingredients like oleo-extract, honeysuckle, raspberry seeds and Camargue rice, and includes four ultra-sensorial products for home use. Many of the products also exclusively use organic plant active ingredients like birch sap, hawthorn floral water, and alfalfa extract. Sothys products can be used in an organic professional treatment that promises deep relaxation for 30 minutes and includes make-up removal, a scrub, revitalising birch serum, and a modeling massage mask. The brand is also collaborating with Plastic Bank to make the range plastic neutral by committing to collecting 1 kg of used plastic from the environment for every 1 kg of plastic used in packaging. In addition, the packaging used for the range is 100% recyclable and created with a vegan formula. To learn more about the Sothys Organic range, contact Manola on 1800 816 599.

FAST FACT: According to The University of California, the average woman will apply lipstick 2-14 times over a 12-hour period and will unknowingly ingest as much as 87 milligrams of product each day; which, over a lifetime, can equate to over two kilograms.

MCOBEAUTY’S GLOSSY MAKEOVER

MCoBeauty has released a new Glow Lip Balm that combines the best qualities of a high-shine gloss with a hydrating balm. The two-in-one gloss and treatment is available in four flavours: rose, apple, watermelon, and berry. The product also features a plumping and moisturising formula that immediately soothes dry, chapped lips and simultaneously delivers a non-sticky coat of glossy shine. The ingredients used include shea butter, sweet almond oil, coffee seed oil, and glycerin — all of which ensure long-wearing hydration and silky smoothness. We’re also loving the brand’s UltraStay Flawless Foundation that provides a medium-full coverage base and is packed with skin-loving ingredients like chamomile, and fruit extracts from ginseng root, pomegranate, and calendula. The product is rich in antioxidants and controls oil and shine for up to 24 hours. To learn more about MCoBeauty, contact MCoBeauty on 02 8354 6700.

KERAFACTOR ARRIVES IN AUS

KeraFactor by SkinQRI has launched in Australia with Advanced Cosmeceuticals securing distribution rights. A hair and scalp-first treatment system, the formulation combines a patented set of seven biosynthetic polypeptides. The product line-up works in conjunction with various treatment methods, including microneedling, PRP and mesotherapy, as well as the KeraLase treatment to achieve maximum product absorption and optimum results. KeraFactor contains five biomimetic growth factors and two skin proteins to support scalp and hair using LaseMD Ultra technology. The recommended treatment protocol is one treatment session every month for 3 to 6 months (3-6 total treatments) and patients should apply KeraFactor Scalp Stimulating Solution and Scalp Stimulating Shampoo & Conditioner at home daily, in between treatments. To learn more on the treatment, contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242 011.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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DIVERSITY DOMINATES ALLERGAN’S SPECTRA OF BEAUTY, NEW STATS AVAILABLE

TOPICS OF diversity and inclusivity were at the forefront of Allergan Aesthetics' Spectra of Beauty launch last month. Held at the company’s new AMI Centre of Excellence in Sydney, leading voices in the beauty and aesthetics space discussed the shift in public perception around ‘what is beauty’. The event was hosted by Nathalie McNeill, Associate Vice President and General Manager ANZ, Allergan Aesthetics. It also featured a panel of experts who addressed personal and professional instances of diversity and provided feedback on the need to embrace individuals’ unique physical characteristics. Representatives from within the aesthetics space included Dr Davin Lim, Dr Cara McDonald and Dr Stefania Roberts, alongside digital content creator Ruchi Page. The results of Allergan’s nationwide survey on beauty industry performance in the diversity space were also shared. The ‘Spectra of Beauty’ research commissioned by Allergan Aesthetics tapped into views of 2,250 adults on multiple dimensions of diversity representations in beauty. Some of the hero findings from this survey suggest Australians feel the industry is “performing at ‘C+’ grade level”. The survey quizzed the public on both external aspects of beauty, as well as how our personal approaches to beauty can help to convey who we are. A few outstanding statistics were also shared: ♦ Portrayals of gender, sexual orientation, ethnicity and age / generations, across marketing, media and social media, scored 6.3 out of 10 for overall diversity ♦ 4 out of 5 believe it is now more acceptable to ‘truly be yourself ’ when it comes to beauty ♦ Positivity was strongest around gender inclusion, with 7 out of 10 respondents liking that the beauty industry features ‘a mix of gender styles’ with fluidity of masculine and feminine characteristics ♦ In addition, 7 out of 10 feel like their background and ethnicity are well represented ♦ Dimensions including sexual orientation, gender, cultural background and generational alignment, are particularly important to demonstrate – for example 45% of those surveyed aim to convey their sexual orientation through their look, and 31% embrace the beauty standards of their culture.

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Professional Beauty spoke to Dr Davin Lim following the event: Davin, I understand you’ve had a rich history studying and training abroad in aesthetic dermatology. Are you able to summarise the key skin issues you managed in each of the regions in which you’ve worked, namely the UK, the US and Asia? And how do those issues face up to those you’ve addressed in Australia? “The prevalence of skin conditions or disorders varies with ethnicity and race. In the UK and Ireland one of the most common conditions seen by dermatologists is rosacea. In contrast, for Asian countries, the most common skin condition is pigmentation. I do believe that specialist training in various different countries enables the physician to be better rounded to manage skin conditions in multicultural societies such as in Australia and The United States.” For Allergan’s Spectra of Beauty 2022 event, you spoke on the importance of recognising diversity in the industry. In what ways do you believe the industry can seek to improve in this area? “Data. Data driven research is integral to understanding the wants and needs of clients. Based upon the data, clinicians should take on board how we should change and adopt new strategies based upon our patients or clients' expectations. The industry should also work with key influencers to better understand the mindset of different age groups, ethnicities and gender orientation.” Have the concerns of clients coming to you changed in the last five years when it comes to their skin needs? If so, in what ways? “The surge in social media, in particular the ease of access to an almost unlimited plethora of information and misinformation has transformed the dialogue of a ‘normal’ dermatological consultation. Patients today are more educated in comparison to patients five to ten years ago. In general they are more focused on their goals, often having researched therapies and topicals. This can optimize the consultation process if information is correct, or conversely hamper the consult if their premeditated diagnosis or treatment plan is not aligned."

IMPROVE YOUR ENERGY

Derma Energy Info

“We are here on Earth to improve our energy. At Dermaenergy we are committed to improving the energy of others and committed to improving their lives too. Everything we do centres around energy. It’s our mantra, our ethos, our commitment - holistically and scientifically.” Sean Abel. Cosmetic Chemist + Creator.

E. energy@dermaenergy.com.au C. 1300 799 709

www.

dermaenergy.com.au W. dermaenergy.com.au

news

SKINCEUTICALS WELCOMES SCIENTIFIC & EDUCATION COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER SKINCEUTICALS TAKES pride of place as one of the world’s leading cosmeceutical skincare companies. With an attention to research and development and a focus on challenging the skincare status quo, the brand is looking to their newly appointed Dr Tania Romano to further solidify the brand’s Australian presence. Hannah Gay chats to the Scientific and Education Communications Manager on her role. Dr Romano, congratulations on your new role! Briefly describe what a day in your role as SkinCeuticals’ Scientific and Education Communications Manager will look like? “Thank you! I’m thrilled to be part of the SkinCeuticals team. A day in my role can be quite varied but there is a lot of collaboration and communication with Australia’s leading doctors, from dermatologists to plastic surgeons. I spend a lot of time reviewing the scientific literature on skincare and the scientific studies and evidence for SkinCeuticals’ products and ingredients. As SkinCeuticals is advanced, scientifically-backed skincare, I am also in charge of designing and running new, local Australian clinical studies to further advance our knowledge. I also oversee the full education strategy created by the SkinCeuticals team for our doctors, nurses and aestheticians.” I understand you have a background working in the study of diseases. How will your research feed back into your role with SkinCeuticals? “Before joining the SkinCeuticals team, I spent 15 years working as a biomedical research scientist and academic. My research focused on the developmental programming of adult diseases, and how interventions during pregnancy can have long term effects for offspring health. Academically, I am an expert in human physiology, lecturing to students in a variety of courses on every topic you could think of, including the skin! The high-level skills I’ve acquired as a research scientist are

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translatable across all fields of research, so I am well placed to lead the medical team for SkinCeuticals in Australia and oversee the integrated skincare studies we are planning for the future.” What goals are you hoping to achieve through your work with SkinCeuticals? “With so many cosmeceuticals on the market it can be very confusing for a consumer to decide what is best for their skin, what product they should buy, how to use that product and what products you should or shouldn’t use together. There is also a lot of information and misinformation out there in print, on the web, social media and on podcasts, so it can still be very overwhelming! To fix this, clear, concise, and accurate information and education that is backed by factual, peerreviewed science is key. I am passionate about scientific education and a major goal of mine is to help simplify the science of skincare so that people can make decisions about their skin and which product is right for them. This is where SkinCeuticals stands out from other brands, having over 30 years of scientific research behind the brand. We are one of the only skincare lines to have peer-reviewed, scientific journal articles to be published in high impact medical journals. This is the highest standard of data integrity within the scientific community and speaks to the fact our products do deliver the intended results.” Name a hero area/s of research skincare companies are placing their attention on in 2022. “As is the nature of science, there are always new things to discover and learn. Skincare is not an exception to this. Within continual research and

development, we can learn more about different active ingredients and how they work in conjunction with the physiology of the skin. This is an ongoing focus for us at SkinCeuticals globally. There are emerging threats to the skin from the external environment (i.e. pollution, metals). SkinCeuticals is constantly reviewing and testing these new threats to create innovative skincare, pushing the limits of science in skincare.” Finally, name your favourite SkinCeuticals product. “The scientific basis for SkinCeuticals started with the development of our hero product, C E Ferulic. SkinCeuticals is the antioxidant authority of the skincare world, with our Vitamin C serums formulated following strict guidelines ensuring optimal bioavailability within the skin. My personal favourite of our three Vitamin C antioxidant serums is the Silymarin CF serum. Silymarin CF was designed for people with oily and blemish-prone skin who may have traditionally struggled with using vitamin C serums. I love how it easily absorbs into my skin providing me with a visible glow and all the additional benefits of a traditional vitamin C antioxidant like C E Ferulic.”

Now available in Australia

Breakthrough Treatment for Healthy-Looking Hair & Scalp Significant visible improvements in scalp skin and hair appears denser, thicker and fuller looking KeraFactor is a proprietary formulation that combines a patented set of seven biosynthetic polypeptides to achieve visible hair and scalp revitalisation. It contains significantly higher concentrations of each growth factor, wrapped into its own nanoliposome for optimal delivery. It works in conjunction with various treatment methods, including microneedling, PRP and mesotherapy, as well as the KeraLase treatment, to achieve maximum product absorption and optimum results.

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Distributed by Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 cs@advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

news

CAN THE STUDY OF TELOMERES SPELL THE SECRET TO ANTI-AGEING? INSIDE THE R&D departments of the world’s most impressive skincare brands, scientists are looking at new ways to tackle the ageing problem. Hannah Gay investigates the work of telomeres in their impact on skin ageing, recruiting founder of One Truth 818 Rachael D’Aguiar to explain the significance of telomere research and why clinicians should take notice. What are telomeres, and why are they important when it comes to skin ageing? “Telomeres are protective caps on the tips of our DNA. Every time a cell divides these telomeres shorten until they reduce to 5000 base pairs and the cell cannot divide anymore and it dies. Essentially telomere shortening and cell division are the cellular ageing process. Understanding telomeres is so important when it comes to the skin because we need to work to maintain and if possible, lengthen them at all times. Young cells produce collagen and elastin and have balanced melanocytes; older cells have none of these things! Once cells die (become senescent cells) there is no bringing them back yet so many products and treatments work to make you ‘look’ better by speeding up cell division and cell turnover. This appearance is temporary while accelerating the biological ageing process.” In what ways can the right skincare help to slow or reverse signs of aging in the skin? “Firstly, it’s vital to make sure your skincare range is not accelerating the ageing process. I don’t think ageing yourself faster to look better in the short term is what anyone believes they are signing up for! Antioxidants can slow down the rate of telomere shortening by eradicating free radicals which have been shown to speed up [this process]. For the visual signs of ageing, skincare products that boost collagen and/or elastin can help with the appearance of ageing, although bolstering these actually has no

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effect on the actual biological age of your cells. It is possible to [temporarily] look a little younger than your cells are by boosting these two things, but it is all cosmetic and eventually, when you have enough senescent or ‘zombie’ cells present it will all come crumbling down. I think people are misled that collagen and elastin are making them younger; it’s simply not accurate. Going to the root cause of ageing and re-lengthening telomeres is the only way you can claim a true ‘anti’ ageing product as this is the only way to reverse the ageing process.” I understand the brand’s product line centres on the inclusion of the ingredient TAM-818. Talk us through what this is and as a skincare formulator, how difficult a process it is to replicate this ingredient in batches of your product. “TAM-818 stands for Telomerase Activating Molecule 818 because it removes the repressor block on the telomerase gene so that the enzyme telomerase - is activated and can be freely expressed and re-lengthen the telomere, thus undoing the biological ageing process. The ‘818’ is a nod to Dr Bill Andrews’ tenacity as this molecule was the 314,818th ingredient he tested! It is an incredibly specialised molecule to recreate as it takes a 7 step synthesis process and we need highly skilled medicinal chemists to produce it. Then we need to test every batch to ensure the process has been executed perfectly and that each batch activates the telomerase gene. So it’s still a very expensive and labour-intensive process even though we have been on the market for eight years now. It’s one of the reasons we adopted the tagline ‘Scientific Skincare’.

Another challenge for us was formulating with a molecule that never existed before now, as we had to work out ourselves how to incorporate it with other ingredients while making sure nothing got in its way to penetrate deeply into a cell. Lucky for us no-one can easily reverseengineer TAM-818 and it is patented so it could not be used by anyone other than us.” How do you effectively educate your clients on the significance of telomere research and the effectiveness of One Truth 818 products? “Most people don’t know what the ageing process looks like at a biological level, but because it all comes down to one thing - the telomere - it is quite easy to understand. I let [clients] know that the discovery of the telomere was awarded a Nobel Prize and that Dr Bill Andrews’ discovery of the telomerase enzyme and gene won him awards. Telomeres and Telomerase are major scientific breakthroughs and impacted the way scientists understood ageing. For us skin professionals, cells with critically short telomeres are essentially responsible for the visible signs of ageing and pigmentation we see and senescent cells cause havoc to healthy functioning and actually encourage other cells to become senescent/die prematurely (hence the nickname ‘zombie’ cells). The old mantra of the beauty industry – to increase cell turnover – is accelerating the ageing process. To practice responsibly we need to keep up with science and re-educate our clients.”

pro restore recovery + firming concentrate Reduce downtime • Improve skin recovery • Amplify results •

what is it Designed to work with advanced skin treatments, this concentrate prepares the skin’s barrier, restores it’s condition, helps increase the appearance of firmness and brightens skin.

who’s it for All skin conditions undergoing advanced treatments such as microneedling, RF microneedling, fibroblast skin tightening, lasers and chemical peels.

One product with multiple benefits and a complex of active ingredients to work with micro-injury skin treatments.

Control

Pro Restore

1. strengthen Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) improves hydration and helps to decrease skin damage Mushroom Extract helps to soothe skin. Hyaluronic Acid helps hydrate the skin.

2. restore Omega-3 from Algae helps to calm the skin to address post-treatment redness and irritation. Bacillus Ferment helps balance skin’s microbiome. Beta Glucan forms a protective film that prevents skin from dehydration and and helps restore skin back to normal.

Post-microneedling treatment: decrease of side effects Right after microneedling at 1.25mm Subject received one microneedling treatment all over face. On one side of the face, Pro Restore was applied prior to microneedling, was used during microneedling, and applied post microneedling. On the other side of the face, a control conventional Hyaluronic Acid serum for microneedling was used.

Control

Pro Restore

3. amplify Oligopeptide-1 Epidermal Growth Factor (plant derived) to improve skin's texture and resilience. Phospholipids from Olive Stem Cells improve vitality for visibly firm and smooth skin and improves skin firmness. Niacinamide helps fade the appearance of dark spots for a more even skin tone.

Post-fibroblast skin tightening treatment: reduced downtime Day 5 post-treatment Subject received one fibroblast skin tightening treatment on the crow's feet area. On one side, Pro Restore was applied from the second day post-treatment morning and evening. On the other side, nothing was used (conventional method).

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THE PERSONAL MISSION BEHIND SEAN ABEL’S QUEER CHEMISTRY

BEHIND AUSTRALIAN cosmeceutical company Dermaenergy is Founder and Cosmetic Chemist Sean Abel, whose name is as synonymous with the brand as it is with his passionate and colourful energy. And while the industry recognises Dermaenergy for its efficacious skincare and cheekily-named products, Sean shares the story of his upbringing with less bravado. Motivated by Sean’s past, Queer Chemistry was born - a drive that works to support Australian LGBTQIA+ services via the contribution of funds made through the sale of Dermaenergy products. Through speaking with Sean on the development of his Queer Chemistry initiative, Hannah Gay is told that the upbringing of one of the industry’s loudest and proudest was anything but. Flying solo “Raised in a strict Catholic family, I grew up knowing that I was different and that my family strongly opposed my sexuality and my difference,” Sean admits. “This played out in emotional deprivation and feelings of shame. I spent most of my childhood, especially at school, desperately trying to fly under the radar. For the most part, I was lonely.” For Sean, coming out as gay in the 80s and 90s was not met with the level acceptance or empathy as it commonly is today. At 18, he packed up and moved from a small town to Sydney, where even in the

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big city was faced with feelings of loneliness and depression. And while challenging, Sean believes this period of personal struggle drove him toward a successful career with a more sympathetic ear in tow. “This period of my life shaped me to never forget how support is crucial to someone’s life,” he says. Coming out stronger The beauty industry has for a long time been known as a safe space for LGBTQIA+ persons to express themselves. However, the perception of the broader community was vastly different three decades ago at the commencement of Sean’s career. “I studied for my diploma in Beauty Therapy back in 1995 and have navigated a successful career since then.” Sean was introduced to the beauty industry by William Fennell, a gay man, and Peta Friend, a trans woman; bestfriends-turned-family since 1994. “We all support each other and are all active in the beauty industry today. [I’ve] never been without work and [have] always been welcomed.” The beauty of Queer Chemistry “The LGBTQIA+ community (what I call the Queer community) struggles with mental health. This pressing issue doesn’t seem to be dissipating. The main

difference today to my struggles back in the ‘90s is that there’s much greater access to support and resources. Our Queer Chemistry initiative helps us give back and help make a difference.” Two organisations in particular Dermaenergy have chosen to partner with via Queer Chemistry are Twenty10, a counselling service set up to support queer youth encountering experiences of suicide, and Emerald City Kickball - “a fun, inclusive sporting group with mental health at its core,” Sean states. “The group’s mission is to empower and better connect the LGBTQIA+ community through fun, accessible safe spaces and team sports.” For Sean, the ultimate goal of setting up Queer Chemistry resonates with the mantra that fuels Dermaenergy - ‘Improving our energy’. “Connecting skincare (self-care) with Mental Health is our ‘why’. It’s why we have Dermaenergy and why we strive to be better. It’s our passion and what keeps us going. As we grow, we continue to support initiatives and charities that work within our community." "Queer Chemistry is at our brand’s core and always will be. We are dedicated to improving the energy and mental health of all individuals." The mind-body connection While the Queer Chemistry campaign will run indefinitely across Dermaenergy’s channels, Sean opts to extend the brand’s connection to mindfulness and mental health education in-clinic with the offering of their newest treatment, Derma Energy Facial Tapping (DEFT). “It is an alternative therapy that promotes enhanced energy, increased clarity, and a state of calm. It’s beneficial for those with anxiety or stress, and is also ideal for anyone seeking to centre their thoughts, release limiting beliefs, and restore balance to the body and mind,” Sean says. “Tapping on different parts of the body helps to balance energy and reduce physical and emotional pain. It may also serve as a mental distraction from the issues that are causing anxiety or stress. Despite life’s hurdles, it seems that for Sean, he will rest a little easier in knowing that Queer Chemistry can positivily impact even a single life.

Change the way you treat skin. Customisable solutions for your client’s skincare needs using groundbreaking technology alongside the purest of ingredients to treat all skin types and conditions. w.dermaviduals.com.au/for-clinics Visitww dermaviduals.com.au/for-clinics by derma aesthetics

THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER If your salon isn’t stocking and using sustainably sourced, created and packaged products, you risk losing the most influential customers – Generation Z, says Kerrie Simon-Lawrence.

IT USED to be that sustainable beauty was the stuff of hippies, best left to the infamous ‘90s refill counter at The Body Shop. Back in the day we liked our bottles plastic, and our boxes wrapped in cellophane – it felt special somehow. Fast-forward 20-odd years and – thankfully – we’ve been schooled on sustainability, and that if we want a planet to pass on to our grandkids, we’d best be a bit kinder to her.

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According to a recent Australian survey by delivery service Couriers Please – who claim that a vast majority of their deliveries are beauty products – nine in 10 Australian consumers are more likely to purchase ethical and sustainable products. In fact, most respondents also said they would be willing to pay up to 10% more for sustainable products. “The survey data reveals that a large majority of consumers – not a minority

like some may have thought – want brands and retailers to be more transparent about the origins and sustainability of products,” says Paul Roper, chief commercial officer at Couriers Please. “Consumers want to be more conscious of what, and who, they are purchasing from. I think it could be a big wake-up call for retailers to realise that there is a rise in conscious consumerism.” The survey also revealed that two in five Australian consumers would be willing to pay more for ethical and sustainable products, while younger consumers appear to be more sustainably-minded – with 46 per cent of shoppers under-30s, compared to 34 per cent of over-50s. A higher proportion of women are also willing to spend more on sustainably produced products at 46 per cent, compared with 36 per cent of male consumers.

beauty investigation

It’s a movement that salon owners and suppliers have seen and are responding to accordingly. Skincare brand Saint Romeo claims to have Mother Earth in mind when producing their cult products, with all of their packaging being 100% recyclable. “We use amber glass bottles for four out of five products, and the only plastic bottle we use is absolutely recyclable,” says a business representative. “We care about the entire planet, and are extremely passionate about our oceans. Led by research and the revelations around the absolute devastation that waste has on our oceans, we made a promise to minimise our impact. Plastic, labelling, waste – the thought process has been continuously leaning into the heart of the matter. We knew that responsible and conscious skincare that was housed in considerate packaging had the greatest potential to do our bit to protect our oceans. After all, our children and future generations need it just as much as we do and so for this reason, we support the Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) with a $1 donation from each sale.” With conversations about climate change and the state of the planet only getting louder, it’s a non-negotiable for Carol Ahmed, director at

Bondi’s ONDA Beauty. “Consumers have more access to information now and are far more educated than before. We have seen clients choose green/sustainable treatments as a reflection of their lifestyle and beliefs, choosing treatments and products that are consciously formulated, efficacious, sustainable, innovative and most importantly, safe. We definitely see a new generation insisting that brands are purpose-driven and have considered the human, social and environmental impact in all stages of their manufacturing process. At ONDA Beauty, it's important to us that the brands we partner with share these

values too. These values resonate with our customers and once we help them find the right routine to suit their needs, they see results and it becomes a permanent lifestyle change and an important part of their daily ritual.” According to a recent debate at the World Economic Forum, going green is not only good for the planet, but to ignore the plea of your clients could be bad for business. “Society is increasingly asking that companies respond to broader societal challenges,” said Larry Fink, chief executive of the world’s largest asset manager Black Rock, “Indeed, the public expectations of your company have never been greater. Society is demanding that companies, serve a social purpose. To prosper, every company must not only deliver financial performance, but also show how it makes a positive contribution to society.” So what to do? According to Roy, the time to act is now.“It is time that businesses and organisations think about their environmental footprint and understand the influence they have on consumers,” Roper said. “It is up to [salon owners] – from the big players to the micros – to think more about sustainability and our futures and take the lead to help consumersmake better choices.” n

“According to a recent Australian survey by delivery service Couriers Please who claim that a vast majority of their deliveries are beauty products - nine in 10 Australian consumers are more likely to purchase ethical and sustainable products. In fact, most respondents also said they would be willing to pay up to 10% more for sustainable products.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

cover story

Making a

SUSTAINABLE CHANGE

Dermalogica has long been pioneers of ‘going green’ with incredible initiatives to reduce environmental long-term damage. Anita Quade chats to Global CEO Aurelian Lis and Director of Education Emma Hobson about the power of change.

IMPACTING THE SKIN CARE INDUSTRY, AND THE ENVIRONMENT, FOR GOOD

Dermalogica is introducing new mono-material pump packaging that can reduce waste and increase recyclability. Starting in 2022, Dermalogica will integrate recyclable pumps into its best-selling facial cleansers. Most pumps on the market are seemingly made of plastic, but actually include an internal metal spring, making them difficult to recycle and unavailable for most recycling collection services. Dermalogica’s new mono-material pump consists of a plastic spring, which - like its bottles - is made of recyclable polyethylene, making it possible to dispose of the bottle and pump as one unit by simply placing it directly into the recycling bin. Additionally, the new pump is lighter weight, utilsing less virgin plastic which means a decreased demand on a non-renewable resource. This new packaging solution brings Dermalogica closer to its goal of having 100% of its bottles designed to be reused, recycled or composted by 2025.

“It’s exciting to be introducing this new game changing packaging technology to our customers who many we know have the desire to make conscious decisions with regarding the goods they purchase being housed in the latest sustainable packaging.” – Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

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“Climate change is one of the biggest threats to our world today, accelerated by waste in landfills. Recyclable pumps reduce waste and make recycling skin care simpler. Traditional pumps include a metal spring, rendering them non-recyclable. Dermalogica’s mono-material pump consists of a single material, made of recyclable polyethylene, which allows both pump and bottle to be more easily recycled, while also using less virgin plastic overall. Being the first major skincare brand to launch these recyclable pumps puts pressure on other brands to follow our example and meet our precedent for sustainable packaging.” – Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

cover story

Sustainability and environmental impact are at top of mind for Clear Start. Post-Consumer Resin (PCR) is now rolling out across the entire Clear Start packaging line. Their mission is to do their part in cleaning up our beautiful planet for a brighter future. Its important that we create cruelty-free and certified vegan products for a more sustainable earth, while helping keep skin healthy.

Rapid Reveal Peel is changing from tubes inside a bag to a paper tray inside the carton. As well as being more environmentally friendly this packaging change also brings a price reduction to the Rapid Reveal Peel.

In case you missed it - The iconic Daily Microfoliant moved towards more sustainable packaging and a cleaner planet in November 2020. As part of a commitment to create a cleaner planet for future generations, our Daily Microfoliant Refill is made with 92% less plastic, 95.6% less oil and 95.7% fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to the Daily Microfoliant canister, sifter and cap.

“Packaging re-imagination has led to significant innovations as we leverage PCR and other sustainable materials across our product portfolio. Following the success of our Daily Microfoliant Refill, which offers our iconic exfoliator in 92% less plastic packaging, we will soon launch another best-seller in a similar refill format. Updating our packaging to be 100% reused, recycled, and/ or composted is a key part of our sustainability commitment and packaging design for the future.” – Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

“Every action has a reaction. For every positive change we can make to our packaging will have a positive impact on our environment and our legacy as a company. These changes are important and though there is much yet to be done, every action is accumulative and will take us to our greater goal.” – Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

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cover story

IN APRIL 2021 WE ANNOUNCED OUR HEALTHY SKIN, HEALTHY PLANET SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVE - PRIORITISING THE HEALTH OF OUR SKIN ALONG WITH THE HEALTH OF OUR PLANET Healthy Skin, Healthy Planet will impact Dermalogica from the very start of their products' lifescylcles to the very end. The initiative will promote renewable ingredients and conscious packaging design, drastically reduce material waste, and force conversations that drive longterm change. As part of a continuing desire to create a cleaner planet for future generations, by 2025 Dermalogica will meet or surpass the following sustainability goals: ◆ 90% of our ingredients will be sustainably sourced* ◆ 100% of tubes, bottles, and boxes will be designed to be reused, recycled, and/or composted ◆ The majority of the plastic in packaging will be derived from recycled material or plant-based material** ◆ partner primarily with suppliers who monitor and manage their carbon footprint*** Their Clear Start sub-brand will also meet or surpass these Healthy Skin, Healthy Planet targets by 2025. Finally, Dermalogica will work to increase clarity around every product’s sustainability credentials on packaging and on websites.

Dermalogica's passion for Sustainable Salons is extremely strong, and they not only work with them to make salon waste history but promote for their students and their salons to do the same. This social enterprise helps salon members reduce their impact on the planet and invest in local communities, being much more than just recycling.

“Every impactful change, small or large, that Dermalogica can make to its packaging and business practices helps us with our mandate for a sustainable future. Everything counts and everything matters. Our goals are set and our commitment is unwavering. We are encouraged by the work we have done so far and the positive feedback we have received but even prouder of the work and the goals we have laid out for ourselves for the future. Dermalogica will be part of the solution not the problem.” – Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

“As the industry leader, we have an opportunity and a responsibility to make a positive impact, not just on peoples’ skin, but on the environment. We are on track to meet and in some cases surpass our sustainability goals which commit to using sustainably sourced ingredients, reducing material waste, and driving long term change.” – Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

* 90% of our ingredients, by mass, will be determined sustainable by certification and/or other supporting data. For ingredients with no existing certification practices, we will seek secondary documentation proving sustainable credentials. ** 51% or more of packaging plastic, by mass, will be derived from recycled plastic or plant-based materials. ***All partners and vendors will be asked to provide evidence of their carbon footprint management practices.

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cover story

AURELIAN LIS, Global CEO, Dermalogica How difficult was it at the beginning to make “green” changes? “We were committed to making meaningful change, so we added new positions in our global R&D and operations teams to develop sustainable solutions that would work for our businesses around the world. From there, the teams have been able to build strategic partnerships with key suppliers to collaborate on technology developments that were not readily available. The mono-material pump is a great example of such a collaboration, and we have more items in the pipeline.” Do you feel now skincare companies are much more aware of their environmental footprint? “Yes, which is good for many reasons, not least that it sparks sustainable innovation across the industry.” What are some of the easiest ways skincare companies can reduce their footprint? “One of the simplest things we can all do is to make it easy for customers to recycle their empty skin care packaging. That includes education on which bottles, tubes, and jars are recyclable, and ideally providing ways for them to return compliant products. In the US we are embarking on a program to collect hard to recycle and non-recyclable products, with the intent to implement globally.” What is one thing you wish you could change immediately to reduce the impact of environmental damage? “Collectively, the ability to recycle smaller items. So much of the skin care on the market is in small packets or sachets. Unfortunately, it’s difficult for municipalities to recycle items smaller than 5cm. That’s got to change.”

EMMA HOBSON, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica Emma, you have been such a pioneer as part of the team at Dermalogica when it comes to sustainability – why has this been so important to you? “Personally, I have a deep interest in the impact each of us have when it comes to the environment. Climate change is real, and an incredibly pressing issue that individuals, communities, companies, and countries, I believe, should have as a pressing mandate for change. I fear for the survival of our planet, our natural world and all its inhabitants from the smallest to the largest of creatures if we don’t act now. Therefore I was delighted to learn a few years ago of Unilever’s Climate Transition Action Plan and how that encompasses the same targets for change by Dermalogica.” How difficult was it at the beginning to make these “green” changes? “On a local level, we needed to take responsibility for what impact we make on our environment in Australia. We needed to ‘audit’ our footprint and see what changes we could make to improve

our business practices around sustainability. Firstly, we joined The Australian Packaging Covenant Organisation https://apco. org.au who have been incredibly supportive and informative and guided us with relation to improving our packaging and distribution within Australia. We employed the services of Sustainable Salons, in all our training centres and reviewed every sundry we used across our organisation and said can we purchase an alternative that would be more sustainable, if we could we changed it. We looked at our energy consumption, even reducing the hours the air conditioning was switched on and off at the offices and increasing the room temperature by a comfortable degree warmer to reduce consumption. We set up a sustainable committee of passionate employees to drive our initiatives and seek new and better ways we could work as a collective group. We continue to provide regular education to our team on living a more sustainable life both at work and at home.” Can you tell me the impact these top three sustainable initiatives have had? “Every positive change we make will have a ripple effect on the world we live in. By aiding the elimination of deforestation by having packaging created from wood approved by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) is one way we know we are making a difference. By scrutinising and sourcing all ingredients from suppliers who offer sustainably sourced produce is another, and to ensure by 2025 100% of our tubes, bottles, and boxes will be designed to be reused, recycled, and/or composted. These actions speak clearly to our customers who make it one of their priorities to seek out companies following sustainability practices. It speaks to other manufacturers to also follow suit to ensure they are being kept accountable and it speaks to our employees who too care deeply for the type of company they wish to work for now and in the future.” Do you feel now skincare companies are much more aware of their environmental footprint? “I am delighted to say yes, they are. There are many who still have a lot of ‘catching up’ to do but it is front and centre on their radar for the changes they HAVE to make if they wish to continue to be taken seriously in the future by the consumer.” What are some of the easiest ways skincare companies can reduce their footprint? “As a starting point I’d suggest they join APCO and complete a packaging and distribution audit and see where they can start to implement change.” You travel so much for work with Dermalogica – do you think Australia is ahead of the game when it comes to global awareness of sustainability? “Sadly, no I do not. I travel on occasion to Scandinavia; they are streets ahead of us as are our close neighbours in New Zealand. We have a great deal of work to do but much needs to be done by government and especially local councils.” Any more plans this year in regards to sustainability? “It’s a continual ‘work in progress’. We will continue to strive to our goals and you will see this reflected in new packaging and improved business practices.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

DESTINATION

Dewy Massaged into the skin, the application of an enriching oil can enhance a facial experience like no other. Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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skincare strap

Synergie Skin Lumi Balance Multi-Active Facial Oil Synergie Skin 1300 689 619 Skin O2 Multi Purpose Rose Oil Skin O2 07 5593 4488 Jane Scrivner Zero Comedogenic Barrier Replenish Facial Oil The Natural Skincare Co 0439 370 435

Dr Roebuck's Wategos Facial Oil Dr Roebuck's drroebucks.com.au

Kisuna Australian Brightening Facial Oil Kisuna 0412 861 435

Dermatonics Nourishing Face Oil Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 Edible Beauty Exotic Seed of Youth Anti-Ageing Oil Edible Beauty admin@ ediblebeautyaustralia.com

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

sustainable products

GOOD Natured Leading the sustainability pack are these salon-stocked beauty brands worth celebrating.

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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sustainable products

Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel Dermalogica 02 8437 9600 Dermatonics Refreshing Foaming Cleanser Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 Ere Perez Rice Powder Blush & Bronzer in Roma Ere Perez 02 9130 3582 Founder's Formula Cooling Eye Serum Agencie Plus agencieplus.com.au INIKA Organic Phytofuse Renew Eye Cream Resveratrol Total Beauty Network 03 8544 8000 Kisuna Lemon Aspen Gentle Cleansing Gel Kisuna 0412 861 435 Luk Beautifood Skin Nourish Luk Beautifood 1300 669 442 Lust Minerals Pro Finish Liquid Foundation Lust Minerals lustminerals.com.au Medik8 Ultimate Recovery Bio-Cellulose Mask Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Megan Potter Lipstick Crayons in Romance & French Kiss Megan Potter 0421 649 644 Natural Look Immaculate Lavender Energy Skin Mist Artav Australia 1800 805 276 OrganicSpa Vitamin C Serum organicspa skincare 02 6680 3266 Pure Fiji Dilo and Coconut Hydrating Masque Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 RAWW Kale'd It Nail Lacquer in I'm Going Cocoa Total Beauty Network 03 8544 8000 Saint Minerals Mineral Primer Dermal Supplies Australia 1800 717 525 Synergie Skin Uber Zinc Broad Spectrum SPF 15 PA+++ Synergie Skin 1300 689 619 Velvet Concepts Luxe Finishing Brush Style Patisserie 02 8095 8112 Zuii Organic Gradual Tan Body Lotion Zuii Organic 0455 962 319

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skincare

Restore skin back to a state of equilibrium post-treatment with these nourishing products.

S LER HEA

E U R T

asap Soothing Gel asap 1300 131 970 CALECIM Professional Multi-Action Cream Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Dermaenergy B3 Serum Dermaenergy 1300 799 709 Dermalogica Hyaluronic Ceramide Mist Dermalogica 02 8437 9600 mesoestetic Post-Procedure Fast Skin Repair Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Skin Virtue Super Clear Purifying Creme Gel Skin Virtue 02 8052 3500 SkinMTX Advanced Reconditioning Cream Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 WiQo Nourishing and Moisturising Face Cream Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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skincare

Dermatonics Curascar Topical Scar Therapy Dermatonics 02 9188 8819 dermaviduals Total Cleansing Cream Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 Intraceuticals 3 Step Layering Set in Rejuvenate Intraceuticals 1300 725 660 Lue by Jean Seo Fade Scar Reducer Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 Salubre Hydrating Treatment Serum Salubre 03 9888 4129 Societe Calming Relief Balm Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Synergie Skin Recover Balm Synergie Skin 1300 689 619 Vanessa Megan Cryo Facelift Ice Cube Treatment Australian Natural Beauty Co. 02 9568 5264

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skincare

Front of

MIND Ensure optimal care is paid to the neck and decollete with our shortlist of targeted solutions.

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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skincare

BABOR HSR Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Neck & Decollete Cream BABOR Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Biologique Recherche Platysma Anti-ptosis Chin Mask with "Lifting" Effect The Beauty Embassy australia@biologique-recherche.com Dermalogica Neck Fit Contour Serum Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Dr. Hauschka Regenerating Neck and Decollete Cream Helios Health & Beauty 02 8765 1100 Ella Bache Firming Neck Cream Hallas Trading 1300 845 259 Image Skincare The Max Neck Lift Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Niod Neck Elasticity Catalyst DECIEM 1800 626 540 PCA Skin Perfecting Neck & Decollete Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Prai Ageless Throat & Decolletage Creme Prai itvsn.com.au SkinBetter Science Techno Neck Perfecting Cream Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 SkinMTX TeloLift Neck Cream SkinMTX 1800 242 011 Sodashi Rejuvenating Face & Neck Moisturiser Sodashi 08 9336 6837

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

makeup

THE BIG

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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Basics by B Drama Liquid Eyeliner in Black Basics by B basics@ozbeautyexpert.com Beysis Personalised Cosmetics Case Beysis 0412 873 713 Elleebana Elleevate Lash Lift Mascara in #007 Ex-Import 07 5576 6388 Il Makiage Lift, Curl & Lengthen Mascara in Black Card Il Makiage ilmakiage.com/au Kylie's Professional Mineral Goddess Shadow in Smokey Kylie's Professional 0413 351 717 Salerm Cosmetics Comfort Pure Color Eyeshadow in 32 Salon Cosmetics 1800 536 326 SLA Blurring Eye Brush, Shading Eye Brush and Ombre Soft Mono Eye Shadow in Hurricane Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 Vani-T Instant Blur HD Concealer Vani-T 08 8206 8700

makeup

Advanced Mineral Colour Correcting Perfecting Concealer in Lilac In2Skin Australia 1300 660 297 asap Pure Mineral Eye Color in Eight and Twelve asap 1300 131 970 BABOR Eye Shadow Pencil in Dark Brown BABOR Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Basics by B Eyeshadow Brush Basics by B basics@ozbeautyexpert.com Saint Minerals Lengthening Mascara in Black Dermal Supplies Australia 1800 717 525 SLA Outliner Aquaresist Eye Pencil in Black Knight, Ultimate Primer Encore Beauty 1300 770 428

SMOKE Curate your beauty bag with tools made to master the timeless smokey eye.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

Rationale The Mask Rationale 03 1535 Dermalogica PRO Restore Recovery + Firming Concentrate Dermalogica 02 8437 9600

AdorEyes Eyelash and Eyebrow Enhancing Serums Reveal Australia 0421 103 738

the new

RECRUITS A break-down of the most lust-worthy product launches, with Hannah Gay.

Payot OptiMale Moisturizing, Anti-Fatigue and Anti-Pollution Gel-Cream Payot 02 9874 1166

Make Up For Ever HD Skin Undetectable Stay-True Foundation Make Up For Ever 0466 779 321

Ecoya Limited Edition Honeycomb & Cassis Candle Ecoya ecoya.com.au

Endota Organics Hydrate Me Mist Endota Organics 0490 770 414 36

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new products

Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Multi-Glow Blush in Romance Light Charlotte Tilbury 0011 44 1202 629527

Biologi Bk Vitamin C Face & Eye Serum Biologi 02 6686 3455

Sabbia Co Brightening Niacinamide Serum Sabbia Co 0488 725 142

Dr Roebuck's The Goldie Vitamin C Glow Drops Dr Roebuck's drroebucks.com.au

OrganicSceuticals Active Brightening Serum OrganicSpa Skincare 02 6680 3266

Ultraderm Skin Clear Infusion Mask Ultraderm 1300 660 297

Ere Perez Wild Tomato Riche Creme Ere Perez 02 9130 3582

Dr. Naomi Apocalips Lip Plumping Treatment Dr. Naomi drnaomi.com

dermaviduals Individual Mask Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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EXCLUSIVELY IN BEAUTY CLINICS & SPAS

THE

MET GALA

MAKEUP MASTERCLASS

The Met Gala 2022 shined a light on all things shimmering and splendid; its ‘Gilded Glamour’ theme paid homage to the ineffable wealth and prosperity the era of industrialisation brought to America. By Shania O’Brien. CERTAIN OVERARCHING themes were present at this year’s Gala: bold colours, stand-out eyebrows, and intense eye-makeup. It was a call to the extravagance and grandeur of Gilded Age New York — Here are the makeup looks and products you will need to recreate the looks for your clients.

Blake Lively and Taylor Hill stunned the red carpet with their soft, radiant looks. Blake’s dewy skin was highlighted with intense bronzer.

Tessa Thompson opted for rosy hues concentrated around her eyes and cheeks.

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Get the look: La Glam Bronzer in La Bronze, Velvet Concepts Summer Skin Foundation, Basics by B Face Palette 1.0 Pro tip: Add some bronzer to the crease of your eyes to deepen the sun-kissed glow Taylor’s soft eyeshadow and blush was overshadowed by her satin lip. Get the look: Jane Iredale HydroPure™ Hyaluronic Lip Gloss in Spiced Peach, Ellevate Lash Lift Mascara, Ardell Pro Brow Sculpting Gel in Clear Pro tip: Add a sheet of clear gloss on top of your lipstick for an extra sparkle

Get the look: Jane Iredale Triple Luxe Long Lasting Naturally Moist Lipstick in Ella, Curtis Cosmetics Baked Blush in Bombshell, Babor Absolute Volume & Length Mascara in Black Pro tip: Blend the blush on your cheeks up into your temples for some added colour

make up

Phoebe Dynevor’s ‘70s era glam shone at the Met’s pre-party. Get the look: Imbibe Collagen Lips Treatment, Christina Sikalis Illuminating Powder in Serenita, Inika Long Lasting Mascara in Black, The Quick Flick Perfect Wings Eyeliner Stamp in Intense Black Pro tip: Use a hydrating moisturiser before applying your makeup to achieve a natural, dewy look

Get the look: Basics by B Cream Liquid Lipstick in Monaco, Ardell Pro Brow Defining Kit in Dark, Ardell Brow Tint in Medium Brown Pro tip: Brush your eyebrows up and to the sides before filling them in to discern their natural shape Kaia Gerber’s bold, feathery brows were a statement look.

Get the look: Youthphoria Invisible Magnetic Eyelashes in Mystic and Black Magnetic Liquid Eyeliner, Lash Rehab Eyelash Growth Serum, Skinw O2 Matte Translucent Powder Pro tip: Use a coat of mascara after you put on your false lashes

Get the look: Salerm Cosmetics Comfort Pure Colour Eyeshadow in Lilac Brown, Luk Beautifood Lipstick Crayon in Lychee Sorbet, Cover FX Monochromatic Blush Duo Matte + Shimmer in Mulberry Pro tip: Use black eyeshadow to blend your eyeliner into your lid for a subtle smokey eye

Winnie Harlow’s extraordinarily long and silken lashes were an eye-catcher.

Simone Ashley’s neutral eyeshadow and lipstick drew attention to feline cat-eye liner.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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talking point

Sustainable STANCE THE

Leading skincare companies reveal to Anita Quade how they are going green in a bid to save the planet and why educating customers is key to major change.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

talking point

ADVANCED COSMECUTICALS Tell us why it’s so important to be recognised as a sustainable brand? “Sustainability is often assumed to be the remit of “natural” skincare brands. However, it is important that the beauty industry recognise the role cosmeceutical brands have to play in contributing to a more sustainable industry. A key differentiator for the Medik8 brand has been addressing this needless dichotomy - we are all about 'results and experience'. And experience is not just texture and fragrance but also the values of the brand such as its policy on sustainability, animal welfare and fighting injustice. For the most part, clinical brands can and should be as sustainable as 'natural' brands. The only exception is where a clinical brand is 'forced' to use barrier and airless packaging to ensure the active ingredients are kept stable. But so much of the waste generated by cosmetic brands falls outside of packaging, that we use this opportunity to make up for where we simply cannot use recyclable airless packaging until it exists.” What are the benefits to being ecofriendly? “We have so many wins from carbon offset to 100% renewable energy. Even obscure improvements such as using 'slow boats' in our supply chain which massively reduces CO2 output but naturally puts strain on inventory management. For visible

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improvements, we are delighted that our Professional Backbar products are 100% recycled or recyclable along with our first reusable consumer packaging in the global hit Press & Glow exfoliating toner.” Change doesn’t happen overnight – how have you managed to integrate new ideas? “We have wanted to make changes to certain packs for some time but speaking frankly, had to wait for the consumer to be ready. So recent changes to our professional backbar lineup have been extensive. However we will never compromise product efficacy and will work in partnership with packaging engineers and recycling service providers to ensure we can attain our goals without compromising the brand's core promise of "results and experience.” What is one of your standout initiatives in the sustainability arena? “As a brand we are dedicated to reducing waste throughout the entirety of the product life cycle. From removing leaflets and maximising our PCR content, to offsetting our website sales’ carbon footprint by creating cold press formulations in-house. Not to mention the air miles saved blending all formulas here in the UK. As part of our sustainability pledge, we have removed all plastic spatulas provided with our products to reduce the

“As a brand we are dedicated to reducing waste throughout the entirety of the product life cycle. From removing leaflets and maximising our PCR content, to offsetting our website sales’ carbon footprint by creating cold press formulations in-house. Not to mention the air miles saved blending all formulas here in the UK.”

amount of virgin plastic waste we are creating. We now have a more sustainable metallic spatula available to purchase as an alternative, suitable for use with all Medik8 (and other brand) face and eye creams.” What are some of the major challenges of ensuring your brand is sustainable? “A major obstacle we have faced is sifting through the vast amount of contradicting information to understand what is recyclable and not.

Our mission is to give “Beautiful Skin For Life” and this means we will never compromise on the formula. Some of our products require protective barriers in packs via airless technology to ensure that the product stays potent throughout the duration of its shelf life. The packaging industry is slowly catching up with offerings, however because we need to do intensive testing before we switch a pack out, transitioning to fully sustainable packages can be a long process.” n

DANIEL ISAACS Director of Research at Medik8 www.advancedcosmecuticals.com.au

www.naturallook.com.au

info@naturallook.com.au

talking point

PAYOT “An Eco-friendly approach is pushing us to think differently and challenge our classic model to ensure that our vision of beauty is in harmony with the world around us.” Tell us why it’s so important to be recognised as a Sustainable brand? “For PAYOT 'beauty is in motion' in every sense of the way: combining care with gesture, cherishing a holistic dimension of beauty but also proposing innovations. We have earned the confidence and loyalty of women around the world for whom PAYOT is part of their daily beauty routine. To maintain this precious link with them and the new generations, we adopt a frank stance by facing the environmental challenges of our time and want to be recognized as such. Sustainability means considering social, environmental, and economic aspects throughout the whole production chain of a product and commit to better practices with a long-term vision. By contributing to the transition towards the use of more sustainable ingredients and materials for the production of our products we contribute to this long-term approach while guaranteeing the tolerance, efficacy and safety of our products. Relying on our know-how “Made in France” and acting transparently by sharing our successes and our commitments is essential to maintain this bond of trust.” What are the benefits to being eco-friendly? “Beauty is about balance:

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between confidence and well-being, between body and mind. At PAYOT it is expressed gently, with a holistic approach and the creation of PAYOT's skincare products reflects this philosophy. Running an environmentally friendly business helps to reduce our impact on the environment and preserves natural resources. Having our independent and integrated laboratory being a great asset and allowing us to be agile and in total control. Eco-friendly approach is pushing us to think differently and challenge our classic model to ensure that our vision of beauty is in harmony with the world around us. We do our utmost to create effective products that respect nature, while following the progress of science, in a constant and positive movement towards the future. Our mission remains to take care of women and their skin by always respecting its proper ecosystem guided by our strong legacy and apothecary knowledge.” What is one of your most stand-out initiatives in the Sustainability arena? “We launched recently our first sustainable range, HERBIER, certified Cosmos Organic by Ecocert. With at least 95% ingredients of natural origin and 20% ingredients derived from organic farming, the

formulas of the five products prioritize local sourcing: essential oils and botanical extracts are all from France, and all products are made in France. The consumption of water was also crucial and has been reduced as far as possible in the formulas of the range, prioritising oils and solid, water-free galenic for the solid forms. Jars and bottles are made from recycled glass and without boxes, except for the massage bar (box is made with 100% recyclable cardboard), to save paper. Labels are made from recycled paper and transparent seals are plant-based. To go one step further we support the “Fonds de sauvegarde des lavandes de Provence”. That is taking constructive actions to protect and improve the lavender production in the South of France. The products in the range are conceived to bring total wellbeing to the skin and body. All together it makes HERBIER a range highly committed towards the planet and its resources. A range that offers a clean and simple routine of certified organic beneficial skincare.” What are some of the major challenges of ensuring your brand is sustainable ? “PAYOT sustainable approach is driven by several pillars:

An ethical charter of ingredients: Starting from 2021 with My PAYOT, we now launch only products with at least 80% ingredients of natural origin. We have reduced the numbers or ingredients of our INCI lists to rationalis e sourcing and work with a diminished number of essential ingredients. A sensible innovation: Adapting formulations to today's challenges must respect our quality requirements and guidance towards sensoriality, efficacy and tolerance. A French brand: Products designed, tested and produced in France. Cleaner and recyclable packaging: A journey we started with My PAYOT packaging, a good example of how to combine sustainability with creativity. With boxes containing 50% recycled paper, recyclable glass jars, tubes containing 61% recycled plastic and a stick 100% recyclable, My PAYOT is the embodiment of a playful, qualitative, and conscious packaging. A movement toward future: As a skincare brand we always want to go one step further and challenged what has been already accomplished. A driver for future sustainable innovation.” n

RITA SMITH General Manager www.payot.com

Beauty Professionals who text have happier customers. Find out why more small businesses are switching to text at podium.com.au

talking point

organicspa

TACKLES ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE

A sign of the times Developments in technology (air conditioning, blue light), climate change (ozone depletion), lifestyle factors (cigarettes, processed foods), and different societal demands are contributing factors to oxidative stress and accelerated skin ageing. Of course, this premature ageing can be visible in a variety of ways, including fine lines, deep wrinkles, dull skin, pigmentation or uneven skin tone, thickened or leathery skin, dehydration, more sensitised irritated or red patches, thin/weakened skin. That pretty much covers every skin concern a modern person may have! Sadly our environmental toxicant exposure, in many ways, is likely to increase, not decrease. As such, our skin demands a different approach to what we did 20, 30 or 40+ years ago. Fortunately, we can help maintain a naturally healthy

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complexion and tackle these ‘new age’ skincare woes, thanks to advancements of a different kind. Technologies, a growing knowledge base and a drive to replace conventional fossilbased ingredients have led to growth in the organic skincare category. And as a professional, Certified Organic skincare range, organicspa is committed to leading product development in bio-based products to help us all achieve our skin aspirations. And as we have already identified, development in cosmetic formulations that help slow down the skin’s ageing process is a priority for almost everyone. For organicspa, their focus is firmly on tackling these visible signs of ageing, naturally. Thankfully Mother Earth has created an abundance of botanicals to support the skin. organicspa champions these bioactive beauties and sources the finest quality varieties. Their expert bio-chemists

artfully blend Certified Organic ingredients with plant extracts and natural actives to formulate an effective and luxurious range of Certified Organic skincare. As specialists in this space, organicspa is passionate about developing products that have visible efficacy on the skin, are better for human health, and consider long-term environmental safety. organicspa is excited to be talking about a brand new product in their arsenal to help defend against today’s environmental aggressors. And we think you are going to love what you hear. Introducing; organicsceuticals active brightening serum. Based on scientific research, this silky textured, fast-absorbing serum will brighten, protect and hydrate. organicscuticals is organicspa's solution to cosmeceuticals. The brand's most potent skincare products sit within

this range and are formulated with the highest levels of active ingredients for enhanced benefits. organicscuticals active brightening serum helps the skin cope with the demands of our modern-day lives. organicspa takes a holistic approach to skincare and considers professional and at-home care equally vital for clients to achieve their skin aspirations. They're delighted to add this product to their range. It will feature alongside a range of professional treatments in organicspa spas and salons, nationally, as well as a retail offering for ongoing protection between facials. As they say; the sum of its parts is greater than the whole, and it couldn’t be more accurate in skincare formulation. It's the combination of ingredients blended together in the organicsceuticals active brightening serum that really delivers a punch. Let’s explore these key components. What’s inside? Tomato Fruit Extract is full of carotenoids such as Lycopene that absorb UV, are high in antioxidative properties and assist in preventing collagen deterioration. Tomato Fruit Extract is also antiinflammatory and balances the skin’s pH. Interestingly, the Lycopene from tomatoes is so high in protective antioxidants that it induces the body’s own protective mechanism against oxidative stress and inflammation, enhancing skin resilience. This means plumper skin, reduced lines and better overall skin health. Studies show that Tomato

talking point

Fruit Extract can reduce melanin content by up to -22% and contribute to a reduction of wrinkle volume by -33%. Ascorbyl Glycoside (AA2G) is a highly stable form of Vitamin C. It suppresses melanin synthesis and helps brighten skin, reduce pigment and stimulate collagen production. Research shows that Ascorbyl Glucoside also helps protect against UV and alleviates skin damage even after exposure to the sun, making it ideal for morning and evening application. Fucowhite™ is extracted from a species of brown algae (scientifically known as Ascophyllum Nodosum). Exposed to UV rays on a daily basis, scientists discovered that this brown alga had developed a system that regulates its own pigmentation. This inspired the development of FUCOWHITE to help regulate pigmentation of the skin. With antioxidant

properties to reduce and protect against free radical damage, this marine active works as a tyrosine inhibitor, assisting in the reduction of melasma. In a controlled study, volunteers saw an 88% improvement in skin clarity, and 63% saw a decrease in skin pigmentation. Hyaluronic Acid (HA), in this instance, is obtained from fermented corn starch. HA is a natural humectant that draws water into our epidermis and maintains skin hydration, resulting in plump, smooth and fresh skin. You will be aware that Hyaluronic Acid naturally exists in the body, but levels decrease as we age. You may have also heard about Hyaluronic Acid’s superpower to support our body in creating more collagen. Structurally, collagen is comprised of long fibers of protein that provide strength and help skin hold together. Collagen helps the skin cells repair and renew and

“As a professional, Certified Organic skincare range, organicspa is committed to leading product development in biobased products to help us all achieve our skin aspirations...organicscuticals active brightening serum helps the skin cope with the demands of our modern-day lives.”

keeps the skin moist. Without collagen, our anti-ageing efforts are lost. As such, any ingredient that helps restore our collagen base is a winner in our book! Kakadu Plum Extract is the world’s richest source of Vitamin C. Here in Australia, we are lucky enough that it is found on Country, naturally growing and harvested by indigenous communities deep in the heart of The Kimberleys in the Northern Territory. The Kakadu Plum is a small, olive-sized Australian native, sometimes known as Gubinge, Billygoat Plum or Murunga. Considered a gift of the Dreamtime (the beginning of time in Aboriginal folklore), native Australians have used the Kakadu Plum for food, healing and traditional medicine for many thousands of years. It is no wonder why. A single plum contains more than 100 times the amount of Vitamin C of an orange, up to 7000 mg of Vitamin C per 100g of dry weight. Vitamin C is not only a collagen booster but is also an antioxidant. And antioxidants are critical because they neutralise the effects of free radicals. In turn, yes, it is these free radicals that cause damage and contribute to accelerated ageing. This potent source of Vitamin C is a fantastic ingredient to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and promote collagen production. Baobab Seed Oil is a gamechanger in preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss). Sourced from large, majestic African trees, like Kakadu Plums, Baobab Seed Oil (from the fruit of the tree) has been used by indigenous cultures for hundreds of years. Silky smooth and easily absorbed, Baobab Seed Oil creates a protective layer on the epidermis by strengthening the skin's lipid barrier. Rich in exotic fatty

acids (Dihydrosterculic Acid, Sterculic Acid, Malvalic Acid to name a few) and Omegas 3, 6 and 9, this oil will assist in maintaining a healthy complexion, healing and rejuvenating skin from within. It contains natural Vitamins A, C, D, E and F. Plus, it’s also anti-inflammatory and balances sebaceous activity. Completing this enviable list of natural ingredients is an impressive emulsifier system - Lysofix™. Based on a phospholipid, Lysofix™ enhances the bioavailability of the formula’s actives by increasing their permeability. Lysofix™, therefore, helps assure maximum efficacy, skin integrity and faster results. All while hydrating, promoting collagen production and offering a silky skin feel. Suitable and recommended for most skin types and conditions. The organicsceuticals active brightening serum is lightweight and water-soluble, making it an ideal booster to use under an organicspa moisturiser, day or night. Adding this antiinflammatory formula to a daily organic skincare ritual will offer the following benefits: • Reduce pigmentation • Brighten skin tone • Stimulate collagen • Reduce signs of photoaging • Protect and strengthen the epidermis • Maintains hydration and prevents TEWL • Strengthens the lipid barrier of the skin • Deliver antioxidants The team at organicspa are excited to get this product out into the world and onto your skin, your client’s skin, every skin. Ready to restore and protect from past and future environmental aggressors. We can see why. www.organicspa.com.au n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

talking point

SOTHYS “Sothys is moving towards becoming “plastic neutral” through protection of our oceans. The principle is to commence an ethical recycling eco-system in vulnerable coastal communities. ”

Tell us why its so important to be recognised as a sustainable brand "For Sothys it is particularly important. Sothys determined two decades ago that the future of the company was dependant upon a complete evolution and adaptation of an “Eco-Concept Manifesto”. This is not something that happens overnight and each year I have seen progressive moves for Sothys to become not just sustainable but entirely eco-supportive." What are the benefits to being eco -friendly? "Sothys purchased 300 hectares of pristine land in the high country of Central France 20 years ago. 40 hectares of this site became an organic Botanical Garden for the cultivation

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and study of plant extract potential as well as being a tourist experience to remind humans of their connection with nature. The benefits of being Eco-friendly is that it changes the entire mentality of those in the company and the end user of the product to be more aware and sensitive to environmental issues." What is one of your most stand out intiatives in the sustainability arena? "Sothys has formed a partnership with Plastic Bank, a company based in Canada, who is motivated to try and prevent plastic entering the ocean environment. Through this relationship, Sothys is moving towards becoming “plastic neutral” through protection of our oceans. The principle is to commence an

ethical recycling eco-system in vulnerable coastal communities. Sothys is also removing PVC from packaging and is engaging in only renewable materials." What are some of the major challenges in ensuring your brand is sustainable? "One of the big challenges is reducing energy input from carbon sources. Sothys has reduced its electricity intake by 39% since 2013 and reduced its fuel consumption by 32% since 2013. This is quite

significant for a large company to achieve such a reduction in fossil fuel generated energy in less than a decade while growing the company exponentially. Other ways they have been able to reduce energy usage is through the adaptation of lighter materials used in packaging and recyclable and recycled are used. Sothys Green Chemistry, using natural methods of extracting active ingredients from plants, is thus reducing the use of industrial chemicals in the environment." n

JEFFERY DALEY CEO www.sothys.com.au

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C RYSTA L R E T I N A L

www.medik8.com.au

@medik8anz 1800 242 011

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KISUNA Why KISUNA? Founder of Kisuna, Wendy Reiner, is a cosmeceutical formulator who has successfully developed, commercialised and then on sold her previous laser aesthetics brand in 2020. Now, Wendy has recently launched her next skincare sensation, KSIUNA, an Australian native active skincare brand. “KISUNA is a return to heart and soul, I love our country, so it was very easy to fall in love with the idea of showcasing the unique biodiversity of Australia and the benefits of native botanicals for skin through skincare.” The pandemic has been a reset for Wendy, after stepping out of the corporate world and taking some time off. The creation of KISUNA rapidly evolved to embody the values of self-love, self-nurture, wellness and conscious living. What is KISUNA? KISUNA is Australia’s largest and most comprehensive range of native active skincare, developed with high end extracts and luxurious oils for performance, feel and texture. Every product is a result of deeply considered research, resulting in the pairing, and grouping of native ingredients into products aimed at balancing each skin type, correcting a skin concern, and providing the finest skincare experience. KISUNA formulations use organic Aloe Vera juice in place of water to help increase calming and soothing properties. KISUNA uses natural preservation and is void of silicones, other petrochemicals, palm oil, and is sulphate free. It is marine

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“By being a sustainable brand, we are giving consumers a choice and an opportunity to combat climate change with us, decrease their carbon footprint, and support a company that is involved in financially contributing to active ecological projects that clean up the planet, regenerate forests, and fight global warming.”

friendly, vegan friendly, and cruelty free. Sustainability is at the forefront of KISUNA’s brand values, it’s culture is all about people and the planet. The planet is under threat, consumer buying decisions collectively impact climate change. Choosing companies who are earth conscious is one why we can make a difference for our future generations. KISUNA’s focus is on supporting a not-for-profit organisation that is engaged in Australian Native Forest Regeneration Projects to offset carbon emissions. As we all know, Australia is prone to traumatic and devastating bushfires and floods that also destroy our native wildlife, their homes and food sources. It is only fitting that a native skincare brand would be involved in supporting native forest regeneration. The name KISUNA, is a play on KI or QI (life force) and the word SUN. All life on the planet is dependant of the sun. Our sun grows our food, it raises forests, it influences the weather, there is a continuous birth, death, and rebirth cycle.

We are all connected to each other, the earth and we all partake in this cycle. Interestingly and by coincidence KISUNA sounds like the Japanese word “KIZUNA”, which means “connecting large numbers of people together to help each other”. The last great Japanese KIZUNA occurred in 2011, because of the devastating tsunami that ravaged their land. KISUNA would say climate change is calling all people of the world to be a part of another great KISUNA. KISUNA is a woman owned business with an all-female team. “Our focus is on women in business, women supporting women and empowering the feminine”, Wendy says, “I started out on my own, it was hard, there are plenty of people willing and waiting to take advantage of you, particularly when you have a good product. I’ve learned many lessons, and I am passionate about supporting other women in business as a result. Business is about people, yes you sell a product or service, but it’s all about people and if you don’t have integrity you stand for nothing.”

Why is it so important to be recognised as a sustainable brand? Climate change is world community issue in need of immediate attention. At an individual level, making changes that combat the effects of climate change make very little difference, but, at a collective level together we can make a measurable difference. “As the founder of KISUNA, the climate change issue is a concern to me, my conscious cannot permit me to engage in commercial activities that don’t consider environmental impacts. Eco-conscious consumers are demanding that companies change the way they do business, to take climate change into consideration and change the way they relate to the planet.”, says Wendy. “By being a sustainable brand, we are giving consumers a choice and an opportunity to combat climate change with us, decrease their carbon footprint, and support a company that is involved in financially contributing to active ecological projects that clean up the planet, regenerate forests, and fight global warming.” What are the benefits to being eco-friendly? “KISUNA’s goal is to be a leader in sustainability, to do this we must make the consumer feel good about interacting with our brand, buying our products, and make sure that they have a great experience when using our products. By engaging with consumers in this way, we are doing our best excite our customers and create consumer loyalty. KISUNA is all about skin and the planet. Personally,

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Wendy has struggled with her skin most of her life, which is how she became a formulator. Self-esteem is grossly affected by the reflection that we see in the mirror. Fortunately, Wendy’s background in human biology has helped her greatly to unpack the complexities of the skin and apply that understanding to developing products that nurture the skin and therefore our spirit. Having seen the volumes of plastic produced by the skincare industry, it is a priority that KISUNA is not a contributor to the problem. KISUNA uses minimal plastic in its packaging, preferring to use glass which can be recycled indefinitely. In addition, all labels, POS displays, shipping and packing materials are either made from recycled, recyclable, bio-degradable, or compostable materials.” What is one of your most stand-out initiatives in the sustainability arena? “Being an Australian Native skincare company, it’s only fitting that KISUNA is partnered with Greenfleet. Greenfleet is a notfor-profit environmental organisation committed to restoring Australian Native Forests with natural biodiversity and empowering individuals, communities, and companies to take tangible, effective, and long-lasting environmental action. The projects involve planting native bio-diverse forests to offset carbon emissions on our behalf. Their efforts have resulted in over 9.4 million native trees being planted in over 500 diverse forests to address critical deforestation, reduce soil erosion, improve water quality, restore native habitat for wildlife and endangered species, and capture carbon emissions to protect our climate.

KISUNA contributes to projects that help recreate native ecosystems, natural bush corridors, and replant native landscapes in times of climate change and the related consequences that result from bushfires, droughts, heatwaves, and flooding.” What are some of the major challenges of ensuring your brand is sustainable? “There is a misconception by consumers that natural and eco-friendly products should be cheaper than high end brands. Unfortunately, there is a cost upholding sustainable brand values. Sustainability isn’t cheap compared to using plastic and cheap ingredients. In the “natural” market segment, KISUNA is competing with companies that have not implemented

sustainability into their business model. KISUNA isn’t a cheap natural/organic brand, and they make no apology for it. KISUNA is a luxury native active skincare brand that hasn’t and won’t cut corners on performance or the quality of the final product. It is a brand for those people who want conscious quality, luxury, health and wellness for their skin, and participates in conservation. “Our supply chain undergoes rigorous research, we examine the culture of each supplier we use, what chemicals they use to manufacture. Every component and starter material is investigated. For example,

the printing ink on our labels needs to be certified to ensure that it doesn’t contain chemical pollutants harmful to the environment.” Wendy says. “It takes time to ensure that our entire brand adheres to our values, our effort and vigilance isn’t always apparent to the consumer or our retail partners. However, the culture within KISUNA revolves around nurturing each other, our customers, and ensuring that we put the planet first.” n Samples available on request. Please contact Wendy – 0402 367 836 Sarah – 0412 861 435

WENDY REINER Founder Kisuna www.kisuna.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SUSTAINABLE CHANGE

FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

The Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council has always been committed to the continued education and improvement of our industry. It strongly believes that sustainability, and implementing eco friendly protocols within businesses, is a big part of this. ABIC CEO Stefanie Milla chats to Anita Quade about the importance of sustainability. 54

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SUSTAINABILITY HAS been growing in prevalence within the beauty, hair and aesthetics sectors for the past several years. This may be attributed not only to the fact that we are beginning to recognise just how much waste we produce collectively, but because we understand that many consumers are now actively searching for more environmentally conscious brands and businesses. So, why is it so important that we continue to grow our knowledge and support of sustainability within our businesses, and what can we do to become a part of this movement?

individual who joins the fold will inspire more to follow. So, even when the results of your actions alone are small, the act of doing them can inspire others to join you and make those results HUGE. What you can do to help Sustainability is one of the core values of The Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council. We have made it our mission to partner with organisations, companies and brands that embrace high sustainability standards and are leading by example in this arena. As a result, ABIC can then provide better guidance for those in the industry wishing to make earth-saving changes. These partners inspire us all to do more, for the betterment of our industry and our planet.

Beauty produces a LOT of waste Hundreds of billions of units of packaging are produced annually on a global scale, and this contributes significantly to continued deforestation. A recent Victorian Government report 5 TANGIBLE TIPS demonstrated that Australia alone is responsible for more than 78 million • While you wait for the launch of tonnes of waste per year. Excess waste and ABIC ECO, you can start making pollution can wreak devastating havoc on small changes now with these five our environment, our wildlife, and as we sustainability non-negotiables: have witnessed first-hand recently - on our • Turn the lights off when you are weather, resulting in flooding and bushfires not in a room that decimated thousands of homes and • Keep your PowerPoints turned businesses. Consider how much waste we are off when you are not using them producing in hair and beauty businesses. We • Do fewer, larger washing loads not only have our plastic product bottles, but • Layer up for winter instead of our disposable hair nets, headbands, cotton turning the heat on high (it's tips, fibrella, cotton pads, spatulas, wax better for your skin anyway!) strips, bed roll, gloves, foils, plastic wrap - the • Recycle your waste correctly – list goes on. This adds up FAST, and while if it doesn't belong in the recycle there are several excellent waste management bin then don't put it there, no programs dedicated to our industry, that are matter how small still very much underutilised. Never underestimate your power The statistics around waste and the consequences we are being presented can leave us feeling as though the sustainability problem is too big, too overwhelming, an absolute mammoth that no recycling of cotton pads or bed rolls could resolve. But the reality is that no change is insignificant - individuals and small businesses are capable of making tangible change. Here’s a great example - in 1997, just 1.5 million tonnes of waste was recycled in Australia. In 2019, that number has now grown dramatically to more than 31 million tonnes, due in large part to the dedication and hard work by Australian businesses. If many individuals and businesses unite to collectively make small, sustained changes, they really do add up. It is also about so much more than just the direct outcomes of recycling. While they may seem like ‘just a few bottles’, it is often the effort behind the action itself that can make the most powerful difference. It’s the psychological theory of the ‘lone nut’ - just that one lonely person that decides to take action and do something a bit out of the ordinary. And then comes ‘the first follower’. This person also takes a risk by following their lone leader in their unique actions, making themselves vulnerable in order to also go against the grain. However, it takes the lone nut and the first follower to inspire a movement. One by one, a third person joins, and then a fourth, and then a fifth, and eventually a crown. This can take time, but every

Recycling programs Already partners both with Professional Beauty and ABIC, Sustainable Salons have been pioneers in salon recycling since their inception, in an effort to reduce the millions of kilograms of annual waste created by salons in Australia. For those who aren’t yet familiar, the SS team implements plans to sort, collect and responsibly recycle (or consciously dispose of) your salon waste. For your membership fee, they provide a selection of coloured bins and train your team on how to use them to dispose of various materials. They then come to your salon to collect the waste from your bins, transporting them on for correct allocation. Many participating salons choose to pass this membership cost onto their clients in the form of a $2 sustainability fee per visit, which most clients are happy to pay in order to contribute to the greater good of our planet.

Make online orders eco friendly Do you sell online? How much plastic and/or non-recyclable materials do you use in the process? There are so many wonderful options available now, from recycled tissue paper and paper bubble wrap, to non-plastic stickers. Companies like Hero Packaging and Heaps Good Packaging offer compostable mailers that break down in landfill or can be popped into a garden bed or worm farm. And if you invest in a label printer, you can sign up for an Australia post account, pay for the postage online via your account, and print out the label generated on compostable label stickers before attaching them to your online orders. ABIC’s New ECO solution It can be really difficult to implement these changes into your business, either because of a lack of resources, or a lack of time action them all. This is why ABIC has been working hard to develop their new ECO initiative. Set to launch within the next 12 months, this is a first of its kind sustainability initiative that will provide everything that a salon or clinic needs to become environmentally responsible and sustainable, all in the one location. Through ABIC ECO every Australian salon and clinic will have the ability to gain access to fast and easy guidance on the implementation of sustainability protocols; from staff training to a directory of trusted and vetted ABIC ECO sustainable partner businesses and organisations. n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

HINCHCLIFF HOUSE SYDNEY Monday 12 September 2022 beautyandspainsiders.com.au As part of the much anticipated BSI event Professional Beauty reveals a sneak peek of the talented speaker lineup who are set to educate and inspire. SARAH HUDSON – MC OF THE DAY Founder & Director Skin By Sarah Hudson Sarah Hudson, our MC of the day, is one of Australia’s most trusted and experienced skin experts. A Skin Practitioner who, as a leader in aesthetic skin therapy, has provided premium skin services to valued clients for over twenty-five years. Frequently invited to share her knowledge at industry events, seminars, media and panels, Sarah is renowned for her expertise in RF Skin Needling, IPL and Medical Grade Laser, Infra-Red Technology and LED Light Therapies. She is frequently featured in industry and consumer media in print, digital and television. Sarah’s reputation for excellence in skin therapy stems from her emphasis best practice procedures. She invests in high-level training and qualifications to maintain a broad and in-depth knowledge of skin physiology and conditions. She is also trusted by well-known Dermatology and Plastic Surgery clinics and is regularly called upon to complement and advise on best practices in skin health. DR YUMIKO KADOTA Keynote Speaker Dr Yumiko Kadota is a medical doctor working in Sydney, graduating from UNSW in 2010. She was a plastic surgery registrar but resigned in 2008 due to burnout. She has since written a book about her experiences called ‘Emotional Female’ which was published by Penguin Books last year. In it, Yumiko discusses sexism & misogyny, bullying & harassment, burnout, and racism in the public health system. She speaks and writes about these issues for mainstream media, podcasts, and corporate events. Yumiko now works as a cosmetic physician and has recently opened her own practice in St Leonards. DOUGLAS PEREIRA Founder, Douglas Pereira Skin Health Highly respected throughout the skincare, beauty, cosmetic and aesthetic medical world Pereira has worked across many areas of the industry over the last two and a half decades.

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He commenced his career twenty-five years ago, working in high-end day spas and progressed into senior education positions with leading international skincare groups which saw him travel around Australia and abroad, educating on the fundamentals of the skin, luxury products and professional skin treatments. With a background in health science, dermal therapies, beauty and clinical aromatherapy, Pereira has made a name for himself over the past 12 years as a leading clinical skin specialist in Sydney Australia. He has worked closely with some of Australia’s leading Plastic, Aesthetic and reconstructive surgeons and cosmetic physicians through his own medical focused skin clinic “Douglas Pereira Skin Health”, helping his skin-savvy clients achieve their skin goals. Ten years ago, Pereira saw a need in the skincare industry for a range of luxury cosmeceutical grade skincare products that treats the skin based on our modern lifestyle, and the urban stress that impacts how our skin performs and how it combats the signs of ageing. Drawing on his extensive years in the industry, Pereira compiled his knowledge and experience with many hours of research and development to create his range of skin identical, science-based cosmeceuticals named “Douglas Pereira Skin Health”. Pereira believes everyone is unique and skincare should be “as individual as you are.” SUZIE HOITINK, RN FACN Co-Director And Senior Consultant, Htnk Consulting Suzie is a Business Strategist and Consultant specialising in the aesthetic industry. Recognised for her entrepreneurship within the cosmetic industry as a recipient of a Telstra Business Women’s Award, Suzie Hoitink, RN, established the Clear Complexions Clinics in 2005. From a single clinic, Suzie grew the company to a network of six premium medical skin clinics across Sydney and Canberra with a highly skilled team of 70, including 40 medical professionals. The company attracted the attention of ASX listed Vita Group Pty Ltd, who purchased Clear Complexions in 2017. With the unique experience gained from starting a medical practice, scaling and then selling to a publicly listed company, Suzie has become an in-demand authority on the business of healthcare. Her expertise lies in establishing, profitably scaling and then selling businesses. She is driven to coach and assist business leaders to achieve their potential and to develop high performing, productive teams. DR MARTINA LAVERY Owner, Martina Dental And +Aesthetics Dr Martina Lavery has been a dentist for over 22 years in the Hills District, Sydney. Her clinic, Martina Dental + Aesthetics, was born out of a vision to provide dental care of the highest standard in a caring and calm environment. She studied dentistry in her native land, Ireland, in Belfast, before migrating to Sydney after meeting her husband in Adelaide while on a forensic dentistry scholarship at Adelaide University. She has recently completed a Masters Degree in Facial Aesthetics. Dr Martina has a passion for and is interested in cosmetic dentistry, aesthetics and the oral microbiome. She loves the process of working closely with patients to build trust and achieve undetectable aesthetic results. It is a great privilege to work on people’s faces and teeth, she says, and focuses on

beauty and spa insiders achieving wellness through oral health integration and education. Dr Martina’s philosophy of care is preventative, respecting how the health of your mouth is integral to your overall wellbeing. OTTO MITTER Managing Director, Elleebana After two decades of studying the art of beauty therapy, lashes, brows, cosmetic chemistry and personal care formulation, Otto Mitter and his team at Elleebana currently produce and supply lash & brow enhancement ranges and education programs to distributors and salon professionals in over 60 countries across the globe. Otto’s dedication to education has seen him as a guest speaker and educator at the world’s most prestigious beauty and lash events, learn from the world’s best lash masters and is a regular judge at leading global beauty and lash competitions. Over the last few years Otto has been recognised in the industry from his peers by being presented with some of the most soughtafter industry awards: ◆ 2017 Educator of the Year at the ABIA’s – Australian Beauty Industry Awards. ◆ 2018 Educator of the Year at NALA – National Association of Lash Artists. ◆ 2019 Product Integrity Award at NALA – National Association of Lash Artists. ◆ 2020 Lash Brand of the Year – Lash Open Australia. ◆ 2020 Innovative Product of the Year at NALA – National Association of Lash Artists. ◆ 2021 Finalist, Educator of the Year –– Australian Beauty Industry Awards ◆ 2022 Finalist Artistic Fur Awards categories – Best Speaker, Best Judge and Best Brand. Otto has a passion for continuing education, working with leaders in the industry and dedicating his time to help up and coming beauty therapists, lash artists and educators develop their profiles and careers. ERE PEREZ Founder, Ere Perez Natural Cosmetics Everyone who meets Ere agrees there is something special about her — perhaps it is the mystical influence of her Latin heritage. A childhood spent in Mexico with a traditional medicine man grandfather and a mother’s flair for home remedies & beauty recipes, made Ere curious about nature and healing. She obtained a bachelor in nutrition and certification in naturopathy, Bach flowers and acupuncture. Ere emigrated to Australia with her rich cultural heritage and dreamed of her own natural beauty line. In 2002, her dream was realised and Ere Perez Natural Cosmetics was born in Bondi Beach, Sydney. For Ere, natural beauty is about how you live your life, how you connect with the world and how you nourish your body — inside and out. CATHY TOLPIGIN Founder & Curator, The Green Edit Cathy Tolpigin is an organic makeup artist, founder and curator of The Green Edit, an innovative digital platform and event series that promotes the best in clean beauty and lifestyle brands.

As a professional makeup artist who only uses clean, ethical products on both herself and clients, Cathy is passionate about making green beauty mainstream. She aims to inspire and educate without greenwashing, helping The Green Edit community to navigate the space with transparency. Over the years, Cathy has researched, tried and tested hundreds of beauty and lifestyle products to find the best high performance, ethical and clean options on the market. The best of the best is what earns a place on The Green Edit. When it comes to her personal beauty routine, Cathy seeks the whole package: truly natural products formulated with organic and botanical ingredients. They must be high performance, innovative, beautifully packaged and luxurious, all without compromising on the important aspects of sustainability, health and ethics. Her views are informed by her career, as well as countless conversations with beauty formulators, developers and holistic health professionals. Combining this with personal research and her own health journey, Cathy is well-versed in the ambiguity of clean beauty, and strives to make the space more accessible for everyone. To read more about Cathy’s definition of clean beauty, see the The Green Edit stamp criteria. VICTORIA CURTIS CEO Founder of Curtis Collection Born into a family of talented hairdressers, makeup artists and beauty professionals, Australian cosmetics entrepreneur Victoria Curtis began her love affair with all things beauty at an early age. After completing a double degree in Accounting and Marketing at Swinburne University in Melbourne, Curtis went on to become a Marketing Executive at L’Oreal Professional. With unparalleled experience working across all levels of the industry, Curtis was perfectly placed to capitalise on the gap she identified in the market. While battling her own skin concerns for years, Curtis noticed that none of the salons she was working with offer skincare based makeup that also had the look and feel of luxury cosmetics. After a year of travelling the globe to source the finest formulas that the industry had to offer, in 2011, Curtis launched Curtis Collection, an Australian-owned brand offering a comprehensive range of high-quality makeup specifically for the salon industry— but with the luxury and attention to detail of designer cosmetics. Curtis Collection is now stocked in over 300 salons Australiawide, including retailers in New Zealand, while in 2013, Curtis herself won the ABIA Makeup Artist of the Year. “My collection offers affordable luxury to women of all ages, and is designed to address a range of beauty needs and concerns through the use of quality cosmetics,” says Curtis. “The Curtis Collection woman is above all confident, stylish, intelligent, ambitious, beautiful and savvy.” Made from pharmaceutical grade multi-mineral formulations, Curtis Collection products are designed to treat and protect the skin, whilst delivering the Curtis Collection’s ‘lit from within’ signature glow. Curtis Collection features a beautifully packaged range of mineral foundations, primers, concealers, illuminators, bronzers, blushes, brow liners, lipsticks and glosses, eye colours and professional brushes. Each item in the collection has been personally developed by Victoria Curtis. n www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

AN URBAN

oasis When Gillian Adams creates something, she doesn’t do it by halves. So it makes sense that her namesake salon on Sydney’s North Shore has been wowing its clients with its unexpected offerings for almost 30 years. By Kerrie Simon-Lawrence STEPPING INTO the building of the stunning retreat off the busy Pacific Highway in Turramurra on Sydney’s leafy North Shore is an experience in itself. The moment the door closes behind you, the trucks and semi-trailers of the multi-lane highway outside may as well be a world away. While the art deco building was built in the 1930s and originally housed a bank, Gillian says she wanted to create an oasis, and that’s exactly what she did with her namesake space. “Around 30 years ago, the industry was going through a lot of change,” says Gillian. “I wanted to create a place that set the standard for a true urban space; an oasis, where guests received the very best.” Most treatments, Gillian says, kick off with a visit to the Aquamedic pool. And it’s one amazing experience. With its arched ceiling and etched sandstone walls, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were floating around in an ancient Roman bath - but with way more benefits. “Our pool is Ozoned while other pools add chlorine,” says Gillian. “The pool oxygenates the skin to detoxify, rejuvenate and invigorate without the use

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of chemicals, there’s really nothing like it!” A 60-minute treatment in the Aquamedic pool includes a circuit of gently invigorating needle-point massage and reflexology jets, toning the skin, relaxing the muscles and promoting blood circulation. Once in the plush treatment rooms, therapists make use of BABOR products. “It’s a very environmentally aware brand, and they’ve recently changed their packaging to recycled cardboard, with no more cellophane wrapped products,” Gillian adds. In keeping with a water theme, Gillian Adams also boasts a Vichy shower treatment room. Earthy-coloured floor-toceiling tiles create a Moroccan feel, which is fitting, given the Hammam-style scrubdown clients received inside, followed by a massage that combines warmed coconut oil and pulsating water jets. But let’s get back to exactly what the establishment is. It houses all the beauty benefits but it’s also a hair salon and - wait for it - a restaurant. We’re not talking a piddly cucumber salad after your treatment

- no, no. How does a Goldband snapper fillet with sweet potato puree, Autumn greens and a citrus butter sauce float your boat? Or pan-fried pumpkin gnocchi with truffle pecorino? Now you’re getting the picture. When Gillian set up the business back in 1994, she wanted a point of difference. But she also wanted a place that clients could feel at home, without the need to dash off after their treatment was finished. “It was a dream of mine to have hair, beauty, body and cuisine all in one place, that would provide an awesome experience for guests and to introduce, in particular, the then-ground breaking concept of wellness.” We’ve all been there before: Our treatment has wrapped up, we’ve changed out of the plush gown and pulled our jeans back on, and then we’re ushered back into

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“It was a dream of mine to have hair, beauty, body and cuisine all in one place, that would provide an awesome experience for guests and to introduce, in particular, the then-ground breaking concept of wellness.”

the bright lights of reality. Not so at Gillian Adams. Whether you’re after a solo lunch following your treatment, or a spirited afternoon with up to 20 friends on the outdoor terrace, the chef at Gillian Adams will work with clients on a menu - and will match wines to boot. I mean, green tea is nice, but a cab sav with my fillet of beef? Now you’re talking. While the lockdowns of the last two years have obviously effected the beauty industry, Gillian didn’t use the time to rest on her laurels. Instead, she got the contractors in and grew her offering, vowing to make her business even more impressive once restrictions were lifted.

“We added two new rooms during the last lockdown,” she says of the expansion. There aren’t a lot of salons that have managed to stick around for as long as Gillian Adams has. But heading toward their 30th birthday, and looking to grow rather than wind down, Gillian says there is one central aim that has kept her vision alive: “We are inspired by one purpose: To help clients see their inner beauty and endless possibilities so they can conquer the world and beyond. We offer a unique urban wellness experience, an oasis, reincarnating the tradition of ancient pools, which were places to relax and locations of social encounter.” www.gillianadams.com n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

PROTECT YOUR SALON BUSINESS FROM NO-SHOWS!

Fresha’s game-changing deposits feature now delivers unrivalled income protection for hair, beauty and wellness businesses against late cancellations and no-shows.

With the issue of no-shows and late cancellations costing many thousands of dollars in lost revenue every year, Fresha’s new deposits feature now gives salon businesses a new level of protection to minimise lost income, and the means of prevention that the industry has been waiting for. FRESHA’S MOST REQUESTED FEATURE IS HERE! As the single most requested feature from its 60,000 partners and 200,000 hair, beauty and wellness professionals, businesses using Fresha can now collect advance deposits for appointments, with intuitive features that allow the deposit to be customised based on the service being booked, or the client type. Deposit payments are quickly and securely received via Fresha payments at the time of the appointment booking, meaning that Fresha partners can rest easy, knowing that they’re protected if a client cancels late or fails to show up at all. Simple to activate and highly effective, the deposit paid by the client is deducted from their bill following their service, and in the event of a late cancellation or no-show, the deposit is retained by the salon to protect them from a loss of income.

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Fresha CEO and co-founder William Zeqiri says: “Addressing the issue of lost revenue through no-shows and late cancellations is a priority for hair, beauty and wellness businesses, and for us at Fresha. Deposits add another vital layer of protection for our partners in addition to the existing no-show and late cancellation policy features that are already reducing revenue loss by up to 60%. Our new deposits feature further protects our partners from what is a preventable loss of income.” 450 MILLION APPOINTMENTS AND GROWING! As the world’s fastest growing salon software, Fresha has already processed over 450 million appointments. As a direct reflection of the move by salons to embrace and manage their businesses using technology, the new deposits feature is another step on the road to helping salons manage appointments, market their services and protect themselves against loss from clients who don’t turn up, or cancel unreasonably late. DRIVING INNOVATION AND GROWTH With new feature innovations driving growth and delivering protections for its partners, Fresha co-founder Nick Miller

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adds: “Fresha has already millions of appointments, revenue loss from no-shows and late cancellations makes huge difference to individual the global industry.

processed so

reducing

a businesses, and

“In addition to cancellation policies that have successfully reduced no-shows by up to 60% already, deposits takes revenue protection to a new level by transforming how our partners can manage this issue. Setting up deposits on Fresha couldn’t be easier. When you join Fresha’s free appointment scheduling software and enable Fresha payments you can: ◆ Enable deposits across your entire service menu, or apply deposits to selected services ◆ Decide how much to charge upfront. You can require clients to pay a partial amount or the full price at the time of booking, with advanced options to customise the amount depending on the service being booked ◆ Decide who pays a deposit. You may require all clients to pay upfront, or apply deposits only to certain groups, such as firsttime clients The combination of using Fresha to manage appointment bookings and payments seamlessly is increasing business efficiency, and making it easier for clients to book an appointment with their favourite stylist. And, with Fresha’s consumer facing website and app generating new clients and bookings online, Fresha is at the forefront of hairdressing technology, whilst appealing to consumers and how they want to manage their lives. A WIN-WIN FOR SALONS AND YOUR CLIENTS “The majority of appointments are now being booked outside of conventional working hours,” says Nick. “Consumers want the convenience of booking appointments in their leisure time, and they’re increasingly dependent on technology that allows them to do that, as well as searching for salons and services in their area. Fresha is a win-win for salon businesses and their clients; it provides an end-to-end solution that gives clients what they want, whilst also protecting salons against income loss should a client book and then fail to arrive.” Fresha salon software is transforming the way hair, men’s grooming, beauty, spa and wellness businesses are managing, promoting and protecting their businesses. Join Fresha FREE at https://www.fresha.com/for-business

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

profile

WINNING THE

war on waste What is Waste Revolution? Chris: “Waste Revolution is Australia’s leading plastic neutral certification. We partner with companies to measure and reduce their plastic footprint, and then to offset an equivalent amount of plastic by funding plastic collection or recycling activities. Our vision is a world where every company is taking full responsibility for their environmental impact. We also want to put a stop to plastic waste leaking into our environment and our oceans by stimulating a truly circular economy.” Why does Waste Revolution exist? Harry: “There’s 300 million tonnes of plastic being produced each year, and of that less than 10 percent is being recycled. For some sorts of plastics, it’s extremely low - like less than one percent for certain problem plastics; I think that that in itself is extremely problematic. You think that your waste goes in the recycling bin and that it’s recycled. Unfortunately, that’s not the case for the majority of plastic, which does end up in landfill. The other fact that really blows our minds in terms of carbon emissions is that the emissions associated with plastic industries are nearly double that of the entire aviation sector. So again, it’s not just the physical impact of plastic, there’s also a huge carbon footprint because as we know, plastic is made of oil and gas, so the extra fossil fuels that result from the sector are fairly astronomical.” I understand that you have backgrounds in law and management consulting. How have skills in these areas set you up to building Waste Revolution? Chris: “Harry’s worked as a lawyer for three years, with a specialty in climate risk governance and sustainable finance. He’s also done a bit of freelance work with a Carbon Neutral Certification. He’s now

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We met the duo behind Australian-born sustainability business Waste Revolution - a company aiding beauty brands on their journey to a more environmentallyfriendly future. Hannah Gay speaks to founders Chris Lam and Harry Smith on the project. working for The Investor Group on climate change - they assist institutional investors to transition to net zero and invest in more climate solutions. And then my background is, as you say, in management consulting with a focus on strategy and economics. I’ve had the chance to work across projects on sustainability and technology as well. I also do a bit of freelance website design, so I think our skills complement eachother really well. Our backgrounds have given us a good understanding of sustainability, finance and technology, and also law. And all of these have been really helpful in setting up Waste Revolution.” You’ve recently partnered with INIKA Organic, which is stocked in a number of salons across Australia. What were the specific steps that you took with the brand to get them to a plastic neutral status? Chris: “The first step was to measure, so we started by working with INIKA to complete a plastic footprint audit of their products. This provided them with a much more granular view of what products were driving their plastic use and what kind of materials they were using. That leads really well into step two, which is to reduce through our Plastic Action Plan. We’re working with INIKA to identify further opportunities for plastic reduction, increased use of post-consumer recycled plastic and also improved areas of circularity. I think that audit really sets companies up because they know where they’re using plastic and I think it’s an important first step.

INIKA have done some really amazing work over the last couple of years to totally rethink their packaging and reduce their reliance on virgin plastic, substituting for alternatives like sugar cane, glass and aluminium. And most importantly, where they did need to use plastic, 72 percent of it now comes from post-consumer recycled plastics, which goes a long way in improving the circularity of their business. The third step was to offset. INIKA have committed to offset 4.7 tonnes of plastic in 2022, which is a massive effort that’ll fund the production of over 800 fence posts made from 100 percent hard-to-recycle plastics. Those posts are then donated to fire or flood-affected farmers to rebuild fences and to plant trees.” How can beauty businesses get on board? Chris: “You can’t manage what you haven’t measured, so we always say the best place to start is by measuring your plastic footprint and looking at which products in which areas of your business are going to use virgin plastic or hard-torecycle flexible plastics. We’re starting to see the world’s most sustainable companies going both plastic neutral and carbon neutral. The most important thing is to just make a start.” n

To learn more on how to set your beauty business up for a more sustainable future, scan the QR code to watch our video interview in full!

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.com

going green When makeup artist Cathy Tolpigin swapped her kit for clean, green and sustainable only products, she was taking what would become the first of many giant leaps toward a more eco-conscious career. The Green Edit founder reveals to Hannah Gay how Earthloving brands are finding their footing amongst the pros.

Cathy, you’re a makeup artist by trade. Give us a brief run-down on how you got started, and how long you’ve been in the industry. “My creative career spans over 20 years, having studied fashion at The University of Technology, Sydney. I graduated in 2000 and worked as a fashion stylist in television. I later studied Advertising Media in 2007 whilst working in creative services for a busy boutique branding agency. Personally, I love the power of makeup and the ritual of skincare to nourish and enhance, so I studied Makeup Artistry in 2014 when my kids were young, as I was looking for flexible working hours. Since then I have worked as a freelance makeup artist on fashion, advertising and beauty shoots for many brands. I also work with brand founders to create bespoke imagery and content, managing all aspects of shoot production including concept, storyboarding, styling, sourcing the perfect studio or location, photographer and videographer, model casting and, of course, creating a glowing makeup look for models on the day of the shoot. This is where all of my experience working in the industry has come together.

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My passion is bringing brands to life and working with brand founders who share the same values when it comes to natural, ethical, sustainable and crueltyfree beauty.” You specialise in the use of organic and natural brands. Tell us what prompted you to work with organic makeup only? “Whilst completing my makeup diploma we were advised to purchase what were considered to be the high performance, luxury mainstream brands as we were told these were the only brands that work in a professional capacity and that clients would want to see these brands in our professional kit. So, I stocked up on these products initially and used them on my clients. At the time, I was on a personal health journey and through my research it became apparent that these beauty products had questionable ingredients in them and many were not cruelty-free, so it just didn’t sit well with me. I was also asked by my clients to recommend beauty products I used in my kit and I didn’t feel good about recommending these products either. So I invested a lot of time and funds to test and try natural products in order to curate a professional kit I could trust and felt great about using.”

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Does using organic makeup consistently provide the same result to your clients as non-organic? Why or why not? “Professional makeup has to work under studio lights and last on long shoot days. I have tried and tested hundreds of clean beauty products on various skin types and under different conditions. My experience was that when I found the right clean alternative, it worked just as well (if not better) than the mainstream counterparts. It took a lot of research, time, trial-and-error and personal investment, but in the process I discovered so many incredible brands and founders. I learnt more about the processes involved, and gained so much respect for those pioneering the space.”

“If brands would like to tap into this audience, they need to get on board quickly and with authenticity and integrity.” So I did my research and asked brand founders a thousand questions about what type of platform would be of service, and I tailored The Green Edit’s first event in 2020 to meet that need. The Green Edit event also provided each exhibiting brand access to mainstream media, retailers, influencers and the general public who were curious about clean beauty. Brands had the opportunity to meet, connect and share their story and products with so many key players on the event day and I am so proud of the wonderful connections that have been made.”

What is The Green Edit? “The Green Edit’s purpose is to incite change by showcasing only the best clean beauty and lifestyle brands in a way that’s transparent and considered. We shine a light on the best organic and natural makeup, skincare, hair products, fragrance, nail care, sunscreen, lifestyle and inner beauty supplements. We do this through four main channels: The Green Edit In-Person Event, The Green Edit Podcast, The Best Of The Green Edit Awards, and The Green Beauty Directory + Digital Content Offering. If you are a clean beauty or wellness brand, we connect you with top tier media, influencers, international and Australian retailers, as well as mindful consumers to grow brand awareness and provide distribution opportunities. And if you are a mindful consumer, we want to arm our community with the tools they need WHAT’S IN CATHY’S to make informed choices about the products MAKEUP KIT? they use; to understand the impact their choices have on their health, the planet, animals • Ere Perez Cosmetics and other humans. • Eye Of Horus We are all about facilitating authentic • Kylie’s Professional connection, we love to explore and unpack the • Luk Beautifood idea of clean beauty without green washing, as all • INIKA Organic brands who are part of our community are vetted to ensure that they too align with our values.” Why do you believe green brands should be provided platforms like The Green Edit to market themselves into the mainstream? “I believe that ethical brand founders should have a loud voice; to share their story and the way in which they ethically source, create and produce their products. Having worked with many clean beauty brands over the years on shoots, by consulting, creating beauty campaigns and content, I loved getting to know the brand founders and hearing their stories. It was obvious that they really put in the work in order to consciously create a brand with ethics and integrity at the heart of their business. I also had brand founders tell me that there really wasn’t a platform in Australia that supported and promoted truly clean beauty and lifestyle brands, minus the greenwashing.

Outside of a general passion for green beauty, what are the monetary and commercial benefits to brands that opt to align with this ethos? “I truly believe that ethical, sustainable and clean beauty will become the norm, and that if brands would like to tap into this audience, they need to get on board quickly and with authenticity and integrity. Consumers are looking for the whole package when it comes to beauty products. Clean ingredients that are sustainably sourced, not tested on animals with minimal impact on the environment.” What’s next for the clean, green, ethical beauty industry in Australia, and for you as an organic makeup artist? “Clean beauty is no longer a trend or buzzword and there are many key brands pioneering the way. There are brands and initiatives that mindful consumers are looking to support, and I am so proud to have had those brands be a part of The Green Edit community.” n

CATHY WILL SPEAK AT THIS YEAR’S BEAUTY & SPA INSIDERS EVENT! GRAB YOUR TICKET ONLINE.

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THE

INSIDE OUT APPROACH Norwegian born skin specialist and founder of the Scandi inspired HUD reveals her new venture – Profit + Purpose designed for business owners keen to focus on purpose driven business leadership. By Anita Quade. My love for skincare started when… “My life changed overnight during a trip to Daydream Island with my then boyfriend (now Mr HÜD!), around 22 years ago. We spent the day sailing in the Whitsundays and when we arrived back at the hotel, I went to get ready for dinner and saw (in horror) that my face was completely covered in pigment! I had developed intense deep brown blotches covering pretty much most of my face. I had no idea what had happened so I went to the nurse on the island who told me due to my pill (which I was on to control my inflamed acne) I had developed melasma. Ever since this one day in paradise, I became SO obsessed with finding a solution.” I’m entering my 15th year of treating skin and the biggest lesson I have learnt is… “That treating skin is an inside out approach. We used to see the skin as one dimensional, only treating what we saw on the surface, but now as a result, we see that solutions are often worse than the problem! Inflammaging is a word I always come back to, and in the days of getting my own skin treated for acne and melasma, it was the perfect case study in how that comes about. Constant removal of my epidermis with Jessners, TCA’s and Salicylics along with glycolic products at home, meant my skin aged about 10 years in a short year. We now know that reducing cortisol (the reason I opened a clinic that looks and feels relaxed 8 years ago when it wasn’t a thing) is paramount to treatment success. And of course, you can’t treat any inflammatory disorders without treating the gut.”

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One of the things I wish I had have known when starting out was… “Is not to scale too quickly. I was fortunate enough that I was really clear on my “why”, which meant when everyone around me told me to take a different route, I could stay focused and pace my own way and be an innovator. As we became busy quite quickly, I decided to build another four rooms - we initially had three and all of a sudden, we had 7! That meant we had the capacity to more than double our clients and revenue so I expanded the team very quickly. Along with that came toxic culture, unclear expectations, messy systems and what I see now as a huge amount of learning opportunities from growing pains. Then of course it was a huge number of sleepless nights, panic attacks, feelings of failure and actual failures. But reflection is a wonderful thing. And all those challenges led me to where I am today!” The biggest change in the skincare industry over the years has been… “Specialisation. When I started out it was just a given that you’d do a bit of everything. Now, finding your niche is a must. I think it’s an important shift - but I also think a lot of business owners have jumped a bit too quickly. There’s almost a stigma if you specialise in something other than skin. As I see it, it comes down to really defining your “why”. For me it was a

no brainer - my years of suffering with my own skin was a constant driver for me when it came to making decisions to specialise in skin. But purpose comes in all different shapes and sizes, and if your only reason for specialising in skin is to make more money, then it will likely fail.” My biggest achievement to date … “Had you asked me a couple of years ago, when the world was different, I might have said winning one of our many awards…. But life feels different now post COVID, and my focuses have shifted too. I have so many achievements I’m proud of but in this moment, I am the proudest of the way we as a team and business stayed true to our ‘people first’ culture during a full year of lockdowns and challenges that have come during the past two years in Victoria. We kept the entire team on and working throughout and made sure that we had daily huddles via zoom and did fun things together! We also had a full team turnover post the lockdowns as our people had settled into their home towns with their families either overseas or interstate. One year of lockdowns is a looooong time! But with that came an amazing opportunity to find some

profile

2. Honesty: HÜD stands for transparency in everything we do. Real people. Honest feedback. Authentic products. There’s nothing fake about our brand. What you see is what you get. We are anti fads and focus intensely on what gives our clients results rather than what looks cool in the moment. 3. Heart: Perhaps most importantly, more than anything else, at HÜD we have heart. We understand how traumatic bad skin can be. We’re genuinely here to help. And we care about our clients – each and every one.”

incredible people who I am so grateful to have on my team today. We also made sure that we prioritised the other main people in our business our clients. Our focus was purely to make sure they and our team had what they needed to get through a very difficult, uncertain time. As a purpose driven business who exists to change lives by changing skin, we made it our top priority to help people remotely. So coming out of the past two years better and stronger than ever is probably my greatest achievement as of right now.” Business leadership is important to me and I have set up a new venture titled Profit + Purpose becaue… “It is my absolute passion project! It’s a combination of private mentoring, coaching and consulting - and a game changing course in the works, designed to reframe how we as an industry approach leadership and business fundamentals. A successful business has four components - People, Process, Product and Profit. For too long we’ve started at the wrong end of the equation. We look at ways to increase profit and then we create frameworks around that and call it a day, and our people are just an afterthought. In my opinion, there is no “5 steps to

10x your business” model that works long term without a significant cost to culture and people to create real, lasting impactful change, we need to start with you growing into the most impactful leader you can be, so that you can grow your people to be the best they can be so they can grow your business to be the best it can be. Imagine if we as leaders and business owners can lead with purpose and find more profit, work life balance and enjoyment in the process? Imagine the beauty industry as a serious contender to say the tech industry? Or marketing? An industry where people are given opportunities for growth beyond just learning about skin - but developing leadership skills and business skills. That’s my goal for our industry and I’m really excited for it all!” The ethos of my brand/company is… “It’s a combination of 3 pillars: 1. Transformation: We’re in the transformation business – and not just the skin-deep kind. At HÜD we change lives by changing skin. It gives people confidence and courage and vibrancy. We are so passionate about our purpose that we’ve even made it a trademark!

My mentors along the way have been… Many and varied, and I have learnt from all of them. In the past four years, I have been incredibly fortunate to work with a mentor who specialises in mindful leadership from big tech/business background (not beauty), which has been transformational! It’s also what’s led me to start my project, Profit + Purpose. I have learnt so many things along the way that completely changed my perspective on leadership and what owning a business and defining success is all about. I’ve consolidated my journey which has resulted in a thriving, successful and purpose driven seven figure business – and of course, a map to help others get there too!” My goals this year for the brand is…. “Is to grow to our fullest capacity whilst maintaining an absolute people first culture. We’ve changed how we operate post pandemic - we’d actually started before but it’s accelerated the process - and it means our rostering has been optimised for a healthy work/life balance and ongoing training/education. We have a bunch of exciting goals internally. My goals for Profit + Purpose is to have a positive impact on as many business owners as I can, whilst also being completely prescriptive. I take on a maximum of four clients at a time, and I never found group sessions very transformative – so this means a fully prescribed course that will enable business owners to apply every principle to their specific circumstances or business. I am super excited to say the least about the future.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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A MASTERCLASS IN

marketing profit AND

Since its inception, Venus Concept has known that salon professionals often need more than ‘the right salon in the right location’ to succeed – they need to know how to attract and retain enough clients to make a profit. Nicole Montgomery reveals how educating staff is the key to success. THEREFORE, at Venus, we invest heavily in the education of our salon partners from Day One as we know that it is the key to their success (and ours too). As many of us have learned the hard way, our education does not end the day we complete our final exams or graduate with a certificate, diploma or even degree. Our education continues, and often really ‘starts’, on the day we begin working in a salon. However, this ‘education’ – our formal qualification and our clinical experience (whether it is one year or more than 10) – is not enough to guarantee success if we choose to open our own salon. Although many find it difficult to believe, ‘The right salon in the right location with a luxurious fit-out and the world’s best aesthetic equipment and treatment offerings’ does not guarantee success. Indeed, such businesses fail as often as their less glamourous counterparts. Most salon staff need to acquire, and then continue acquiring, a broad range of skills and knowledge (including treatment protocols; workplace laws, staff management, sales techniques and marketing strategies) to establish and run a successful business. Salon vs Marketing skills At Venus we focus on clinical and marketing education. Salon education enables salons to achieve optimum results with their devices/ treatments while marketing education enables them to attract, retain and ‘upsell’ clients. At Venus we believe both are essential: neither can work without the other. If you’re a great therapist with great technical skills but have no clients on your treatment bed, you won’t earn an income;

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If you’ve got great marketing skills to attract clients but don’t deliver results, you won’t retain clients. Training – online and IRL As individual education needs vary, Venus provides training on a wide range of subjects in assorted formats, including online (videos and webinars) and real-life (one-on-one in-salon sessions and smallgroup masterclasses). During the lockdowns we focused our efforts on online training and were very pleased with the popularity of all our classes, including around 20 ‘live’ webinars and over 100 one-on-one Zoom lessons. However, now that the whole of Australia has reopened and we are all learning to ‘live with Covid’, we are refocusing on reallife education. Online training is a wonderful option but we believe that in a ‘people industry’ like ours face-to-face communication is almost always the best choice – and we can’t wait to reconnect with our clinic partners! We are therefore thrilled to be hosting Dr Sonia Batra’s 2022 Down Under Tour in June. Dr Sonia Batra is a successful business owner and co-host on the success TV

series ‘The Doctors’ with credentials that are ‘second to none’. During her presentation, ‘Venus Concept goes to the dermis and beyond’, Dr Batra will reveal how she uses the Viva MD on clients to achieve extraordinary results every time regardless of skin type or condition – and demonstrate how you can do the same to improve your portfolio and increase your ROI. We believe Dr Batra’s masterclass, like all our face-to-face educational opportunities, will improve clinicians’ skills and knowledge – and give them the chance to connect and share their thoughts and experiences (and even valuable business advice) with their peers. Training for the Future We believe that continuing education gives all clinicians the best possible chance of success. If your clinic isn’t thriving, it may be time to improve your skills and knowledge. But don’t worry you don’t need to go ‘back to school’ full time to get the skills and knowledge you need. As a salon owner you probably already have a ‘qualification’ and years of practical experience; you most likely only need to complete a couple of short courses or attend a few masterclasses and seminars to learn some new ‘tips and strategies’ that could make a big difference to your bottom-line. Yes, like most of your patients, you don’t need a complete makeover – just a tweakment or two! So, invest in yourself (and your salon) today. Visit VCorders.com.au to learn more about Dr Batra’s Down Under Tour and Venus Concept events.

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SKINFLUENCER While many businesses scramble to re-invent themselves, to adjust to the eco-friendly movement - Paddington’s ONDA Beauty has sustainability and a green philosophy at its very core. ONDA Beauty’s Senior Dermal Therapist, Brittany Hindmarsh explains why clean beauty is no passing fad.

“MOST CLIENTS that come into ONDA Beauty are seeking a holistic and transformative facial experience which is what we’re known for. We feel that you deserve the best of the best from clean, effective, high quality skincare to the most relaxing, stress-relieving treatment of your life. Our goal is for you to see results but also that you leave floating on a cloud, because you deserve it. ONDA Beauty was co-founded by Naomi Watts, Larissa Thomson and Sarah Bryden-Brown. They recognised a shift within the beauty industry and wanted to offer a curation of transformational products and treatments that could be trusted so customers have peace of mind that what we’re recommending or using on their skin isn’t harmful to their health or the environment. Every product at ONDA Beauty has been tested and chosen for its efficacy, purpose, scent and innovation and it has been amazing to see celebrities and influencers use their platform to support the change in the beauty industry in an ethical way through science-backed education rather than “green-washing” or false marketing.

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Through clinical trials we now understand that natural ingredients used in treatments can be as effective, if not more effective than their chemicalbased counterparts, particularly when these actives are used synergistically with delivery systems. Once our clients have experienced the results of our beautiful organic and nature-derived products, it’s difficult to go back! It doesn’t take much convincing at all, as your skin will show you how happy it is. With the right formulations of nature combined with technology, it’s incredible to witness the skin’s natural strength, blossom and thrive. Our most popular choice is the 90 minute ONDA Signature Facial in which we prescribe the products chosen for your unique skin. It includes a deep enzymatic exfoliation, steam and extractions, LED Light Therapy during a shoulder, décolletage, hand and foot massage, followed by our seaweed based alginate mask, oxygen infusion, serum, moisturiser/oil and Gua Sha for the ultimate lymphatic drainage benefits. You can expect a glowing complexion every time.” n

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Austria Australia, FROM

SUSANNE KAUFMANN’S BEAUTY JOURNEY

Susanne Kaufmann started her career as a beauty therapist,

working for her family’s wellness hotel in the Austrian alps. She spoke with Ruby Feneley about her beauty journey, sustainability and the unique Australian skincare consumer. A beautiful upbringing: “I grew up in the idyllic Austrian alpine region in the Bregenzerwald immersed in an understanding of the local traditions and the beauty and wellness benefits that could be found in the plants that grew in abundance in the area, which has served as my inspiration for the brand since launching in 2003. I first embraced the beauty and healing power of regional herbs and plants by my beloved grandmother — we made healing tonics, marigold cream and arnica schnapps. This is where I formed my passion and curiosity for natural healing ingredients and powerful formulations. When I first joined my family hotel, one of my initial projects was to develop a spa with an offering of signature beauty treatments. I quickly realised that I also needed to create my own in-house professional product line to support the service. One that adopted the same natural, regional, and sustainable values as the hotel itself, a line that looked and felt as premium as the results it delivers. In 2003 we launched SUSANNE KAUFMANN skincare. This is where is all began.” Seeking a cure: “The Hotel Post Bezau was established prior to the notion of a “spa” or “salon.” It was known as “the cure” hotel and the focus was holistic. The philosophy of the hotel has always been about caring for clients and enhancing their lives by sharing our values of positive physical and mental wellbeing. I have always seen beauty in a holistic way. When we feel healthy and well, it is also reflected in our

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complexion. Everyone should make sure to exercise enough, eat balanced meals, get plenty of sleep and follow a skin care routine that is tailored to their skin types and lifestyle. I strongly believe it is the only way to achieve strong physical health and wellbeing. I was brought up in a culture where taking care of your skin, hair and body was always of utmost importance. It has always been a part of my way of life to this day and I carry these traditions, in my brand and in my own family to this day.” Keeping things local: “I think COVID-19 has stressed the importance of local partners. Our local production and warehouse team have been lifelong partners of the brand and having them situated close by had its advantages.

We were able to adapt quickly, responding to the needs of our customers. Most importantly, we were able to take care of each other from a distance as we entered what was such an unnerving and uncertain time. Having such strong relationships with your production partners is key, and I will always be grateful for their dedication and hard work.” Connections post-Covid: As clients return from lockdown, connection, compassion and consideration are so important here. Connecting with your client and taking the time to listen to their needs to deliver a tailored service has such a positive impact on both their physical and mental wellbeing as the results are tenfold. I think beauty is moving more and

beauty black book

the younger generations search for more natural, sustainable beauty. For us, the use of renewable organic resources, cutting edge science and intelligent product design have been integral to the development of the brand range for almost two decades. Proven skincare science and the natural power of plants is the only way to create truly effective natural skincare. I have always been committed to the responsible use of existing resources and ingredients, without sacrificing quality. Animal testing has never been and never will be a part of any stage of our product development.” more in a holistic direction, which is something I’ve always believed in since I created my skincare brand. We all know by now that the perfect combination of exercise, nutrition, sleep and skin care is the real secret to look beautiful in the long term. And now more than ever, in a post-pandemic world we are experiencing the change of lifestyle returning to the office as life returns to normal. It is very important to take a holistic approach very seriously in order to achieve longlasting results. The climate catalyst: “I had always had the most utmost respect for nature, our people and our planet which is reflected as part of our brand ethos. Climate change has been a massive catalyst for change within the beauty industry as

A sustainable future: “Sustainable production has always been at the heart of our brand since the very beginning in 2003 and the regional production, the sourcing of local partners and the longstanding co-operation with our suppliers gives us a big lead when it comes to sustainability and the implementation of our principles. The producers and the suppliers have grown with us and we have developed together. Only in this way can we implement the latest scientific findings in the ingredients, make our production and packaging more ecological and withstand the legal challenges in a rapidly changing landscape; consumer demands for their skin are greater than ever, the number of consumers suffering from allergies is increasing, while new insights into sun exposure bring new challenges.”

Aussie beauties: “Australian consumers are curious, they want to be educated and experience newness – be it a brand they have never heard of, or innovation from a product development perspective. They have an appetite for discovery and are particularly interested in advanced natural skincare. Our decision to partner with Mecca takes advantage of this appetite for education with their curation of the latest and greatest from all over the world.” Innovation is the key to inspiration: “Continuing to innovate and adapt keeps me passionate. We recently launched our 100% recyclable refill bottles for three of our best-selling cleansing products: Cleansing Gel 250ml, Shower/Shampoo 250ml, and Hand Soap 250ml. Each recyclable refill, with its intelligent capless design, not only helps reduce waste to landfill, but it also cuts carbon emissions by 69%. Made from 75% post-consumer material, it is 60% lighter than standard plastic bottles making it our most environmentally friendly packaging ever. We believe that sustainability is a neverending journey and promise to continue to explore opportunities to reduce our environmental impact throughout 2021 and beyond. We are committed to this philosophy and plan to expand our scope by adding more products to the refill system in the second half of 2021.” The pollution issue: “While responding to the needs of the skin during the digital age, protection against pollution is key to preserving the health of the skin and launched this month, our multipurpose Blue Light Defence & Moisturising Mist to protect against this.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

salon interior profile

THE

SENSORY EXPERIENCE QED skincare founder Shoshana Eisner chats to Anita Quade about her apothecary inspired salon vibe.

Your brand QED was born out of a need to find a solution for sensitive skin, using clean science. Tell us about that? “My grandmother migrated from Hungary and had always reinforced in me that a good quality skincare regimen was part of your daily routine, like brushing your teeth. And I had been a skincare junkie since my Dolly-reading teens, and would slap on every product I could get my hands on. Fast-forward to 2006 and motherhood. As I have gotten older, my skin has become more and more sensitive. Being a Mum really hammered home that I need to protect our bodies and our environment. I am not against chemicals. I just think if there are great, natural ingredient alternatives, why wouldn’t we use them.” You have a background as a pharmacist working in both New York and Sydney – did you find something missing in the market? “Absolutely. When I returned to Sydney, I had the pleasure of working in a large, premium, service-oriented Pharmacy in Westfield, Bondi Junction. We had an extensive selection of skincare brands in store plus of course, between the DJs, Myer, Mecca and supermarkets, there was an endless array of skincare available for the customer in one building.” And yet, people were still not finding what they needed. Constantly, I would hear customers ask: “How is it possible with all the brands out there, that I can’t find skincare that works for me?” There were Luxury brands, there were sensitive skincare brands, there were natural brands but there weren’t brands that provided luxury skincare solutions for sensitive skin.”

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How important was it to integrate your pharmacy background and make it a bespoke vibe into your salon? “Leafy, quiet Bellevue Hill is mere minutes from well-known, hectic Bondi Junction. There is even a Heritage-listed National Park across the Road. We are close to the bustle but get to look at amazing nature. How good is that? Oh and except at school pickup time, there is lots of parking. This is really important for a Sydney-based salon.” Would you look to expand into other areas nationally? “We have all kinds of ideas for the future. Honestly, we won’t be opening other salons until the uncertainty of COVID is behind us at this stage as it is just too risky to open a new space.”

Your staff are highly trained how have you managed to educate and keep the staff throughout the time? “I am extremely fussy about my staff. I will only hire Advanced Diploma Therapists who have had many years of experience. They need to have the maturity and confidence to read the client’s skin and body language. They also need to make educated decisions about treatment options as all of our treatments are customised to the clients individual needs. And then we have extensive training in the QED scientific principles before they are let loose on a paying customer. Extensive training is the best! I get to have lots of treatments.

salon interior profile

“We are so privileged that many of our customers have been with us for years. I think the relationship with your beauty therapist is more intense than with your hairdresser.”

I would also rather cancel an appointment than have one of my clients treated by therapist who is a cover. QED Customers know that when they commit their time and money to a QED treatment, they will get the customised, quality treatment they deserve.” What is the ethos of the amazing beauty space? “The ethos of the beauty space is that we provide luxurious, Europeanstyle, hands-on treatments employing Medical principles, all customised to the customer’s needs.”

I love it has almost an apothecary vibe - customers can choose their own scent to add to their formulations – how did you set up this concept? “This concept developed as scent is very personal and extremely emotional. Once for my birthday, I was given a three-hour treatment at a high-end Melbourne salon. I was SO excited! Unfortunately, the entire 240 minutes of treatment was done using products with an overwhelming Lavender fragrance. Lavender is often in treatment products as a well-intended relaxant. However, if you are like me and can’t stand Lavender, the 3 hour treatment became

torture. This gave me the idea to custom scent all of our products and then in the salon, we custom-scent the treatments too. Kind of like adding a flavour syrup to your coffee at a cafe.” What has the reaction been like from your loyal clients? “They love it. Firstly, there is a little theatre in selecting their scents, which is just fun. Secondly, and most importantly, the emotional benefit of being surrounded in scents that you adore is massive. Our customers float out the door. We generally recommend they choose a few different scents to use over the course of a treatment. And thirdly, many people can’t tolerate scent and have been too scared to have treatments. This way, the customer drives the experience.” What is your favourite element in your salon? “The relationships with clients. We are so privileged that many of our customers have been with us for years. I think the relationship with your beauty therapist is more intense than with your hairdresser. Dimmed lights, closed eyes, disrobing and of course, the caring, confident touch of a good therapist make for an almost confessional atmosphere. Maybe that is why therapist is in the title of a beauty therapist.” Anything you can share about your plans for this year? “Watch this space …” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

business

SAVE TIME WITH DIGITAL FORMS If you’re not yet using digital forms in your salon, now is the perfect time to get started! By Isabelle Castle

FORMS MAKE gathering information like client details and consent easy, reduce the amount of paper you use, and keep your clients’ information safe and secure, plus they can save you and your team a lot of time. If you’re currently using paper forms, or not using forms at all, here’s some tips to help you get started! Choose what types of forms to use The most popular way to use forms is for a client consultation, but there are so many other ways to use forms too: New clients Forms are great for collecting contact information from brand new clients, as well as learning more about them. For example, you could ask them about their drink preferences, their lifestyle, and how much conversation they prefer during appointments. They can also be emailed to a client ahead of their appointment, which saves time and gives you an idea of who they are and what they want before they even walk through the door. Specific treatments For complicated services or treatments with multiple sessions where it’s important to take notes, it’s helpful to have a form that prompts the therapist to do so. It ensures they don’t forget to note anything down, and the service is completed to a high standard every time. Get signatures and collect consent Some treatments will require you to obtain consent with a signature before you can complete the appointment. Protect your business from legal liability by adding all waivers, patch tests and consent forms to the necessary consultation forms to ensure

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all required discussion and signatures are completed before treatment begins. Build your forms Now you’ve got some ideas, it’s time to create your forms! Your salon software should allow you to drag and drop the different types of fields you want onto your form with ease. There will be the option to add fields for short or long answer questions, multiple choice questions, date pickers and space for a digital signature. You can even upload a standardised image of a face or body for example, that your client or your therapist could then draw on. This is useful if you want to circle any areas of sensitivity or concern. You can also include a field which gives you the ability to upload an image during the consultation, which can be done by the therapist or the client. It’s helpful if you want the client to upload a photo of what their skin looks like currently, or if the therapist wants to keep a record of how the client’s skin looks at each step of their treatment process. Before you set your form live, preview it so you can see how it will look from a

client’s perspective. Make sure to clearly name them so you and your team always know exactly what they are for. Attach them to your clients profile Your salon software should automatically save your forms to your client’s card, saving you time and ensuring the information is easily accessible. This makes it easy for you to pick up where you left off with the client, check past appointment notes, and double check you’ve received all consent forms or waivers. Teach your team how to use them Make sure to teach your team how to use forms properly, and the importance of collecting all the right information. Show them how to send forms to clients ahead of appointments, and how to attach forms to appointments so they don’t forget to fill them in. Once you’re comfortable with forms, you will start to see all the benefits. They’ll save you a tonne of time, reduce the amount of paper you use, help keep client data all in one place, and ensure you’re collecting all the information you need. n

Isabella Castle is part of the Marketing Team at Kitomba Salon and Spa Software. To learn more about Kitomba. Visit www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.

info@lycon.com.au

www.lycon.com.au

TALKING BEAUTY Hannah Gay navigates the Australian professional beauty industry, one burgeoning trend at a time.

Second

OPINION

ADULT ACNE - I’ve been dealing with it for the better part of two months. Despite hiding it under a blanket of concealer, it’s been a tough bullet to bite; no matter how diligently I take care of my skin, the acne will manage to rear its tough red head. It’s not the first time I’ve succumbed to it. A few years back, I found myself in a high stress job that kept my brain switched ‘on’ 24/7. Cystic, or adult acne had appeared and reappeared along my cheeks and chin for countless months, dominating my skincare repertoire and causing me to question every ingredient under the sun. Working as a beauty journalist had me believe stripping back my routine entirely was the way to go, but to little avail. It wasn’t until I left the role that my skin finally cleared up and suddenly, the solution was staring me in the face. Stress and I did not play well together, and I vowed to never again place myself in a position where my emotions would hold such a tight grip on my health. Fast-forward four years, and here we are. A new role combined with a hyperactive one year-old spelt the end of my clear skin streak. But this time, I sought help, strapped with knowledge and an army of professionals at my fingertips. Confusion mounted, however, on where to start and who to see. Naturally, visiting a trained beauty therapist would be my first point of call, but was curious to know what the referral system looked like between therapists and other specialists, given the complexity of the issue I faced. Instead, I opted to start from the inside-out, and reached out to naturopath and founder of GlowSo, Natalie McGrath for guidance. Straight off the bat, Natalie confirmed my self-diagnosis: that cystic acne was present and likely caused by a shift in hormones, compounded by stress. “Straight away, from the acne’s positioning that you’ve told me and the characteristics of that acne, it sounds like testosterone,” Natalie explained over zoom. “Stress will actually boost cortisol, and cortisol will boost testosterone.”

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Natalie’s line of enquiry focused heavily on my hormones, with questions varying from the date of my first period right through to the current health of my thyroid. Due to the recent birth of my son, Natalie pressed me on the nature of my pregnancy, breastfeeding routine and the ease with which I conceived. She explained that the body can take up to two years to recover nutritionally post-birth, and that even that can take its toll on the state of my skin. That aside, Natalie geared the conversation back to stress. “It definitely impacts all systems of the body. It’s trying to save you; we go back to the caveman days when we’re stressed. We’re essentially fighting with sabre-toothed tigers - in that moment, our body’s very clever at shutting down systems and so shuts down parts of the immune system, your gut, certain hormones, and it shuts down serotonin as well. If you’re fighting sabre-toothed tigers, it’s not a time to be happy, so it just kind of prioritises things. Now, we’re not actually fighting sabre-toothed tigers. It’s work, it’s just living in Sydney, in floods, and COVID, and World War Three; it’s all this stress, so things are chronically shut down for a while.” I caught up with the always brilliant Madona El Machar at Kaelon for her input in an attempt to better understand my situation through the lens of an aesthetician. Unsurprisingly, Madona’s feedback wasn’t dissimilar to that of Natalie. “It could be

beauty diary

“So while stress may be the reason, there are all these physiological steps that are taking place that are then causing the deep cystic acne to come to the surface.” Madona El Machar, Kaelon

your hormones, or it could be your adrenals, which are exhausted at the moment - no surprises given the world we’re currently living in, and you have a one year-old!” Madona concluded. “It’s classified as adult acne because while it’s a hormone thing, it’s not a puberty thing.” She reiterates that the balancing act occurring between my hormones post-birth and breastfeeding is playing out with a likely surge in male, androgen hormones. “These are why a lot of people break out a week before their period because naturally we have a surge in androgen hormones. Stress plays up your cortisol levels which can then increase the androgens in your skin. So while stress may be the reason, there are all these physiological steps that are taking place that are then causing the deep cystic acne to come to the surface.” Phase two was to tackle the issue, starting with the gut. Natalie recommended an elimination diet in an attempt to weed out any intolerances. Top of the list - dairy.” Dairy can work in mysterious ways in the background without you thinking it’s dairy,” Natalie explained, “but it can cause a lot of inflammation, especially for skin. We get rid of one food for two weeks and see what happens; you might come out and feel phenomenal. And then we bring dairy in, we hit you hard, and then we’ll just see what happens. It’s not that you stay off dairy forever. It’s about healing your gut and healing your immune system so that you can cope with small amounts of dairy again. It might not be the case, you might be fine with it, but it’s just one piece of the puzzle that we can look at.”

MY ADULT ACNE TOOL KIT: • Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Clear Biome Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 • Augustinus Bader The Essence Augustinus Bader augustinusbader.com • The Secret Day Brightening Elixir The Secret Skincare 0444 555 261 • JOSO GlowSo Skin Health & Glow Formula JOSO team@joso.com.au • Spearmint Tea

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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Madona on the other hand was hesitant of the strategy, blemishes through a cloth to help bring down the inflammation suggesting that limiting food groups from my diet would be beneath the skin.” unsustainable. “Everyone’s so different. I don’t like demonising any Should I head in-clinic for treatment, Madona would food groups unless there’s a history of any intolerances in the past. recommended an enzyme or light peel “to gently exfoliate the It’s not healthy to eliminate a food group because then that can skin, support barrier function, improve pigmentation from previous pose more intolerances down the track. There’s a lot of education blemishes while reducing the lifecycle of existing blemishes.” [out there] on what’s going to make sure your body is supported.” Gentle ultrasonic extractions are also an option, as are white The pair did, however, agree on the benefits of introducing certain and blue light therapies. “High frequency is another tool utilised nutrients. For Madona, something as simple as spearmint tea could in-clinic for its astringent and disinfecting actions.” Natalie’s block excess antigens and discourage inflammation. Combining advice was geared toward further consideration of the skin’s unique two cups a day with an efficacious supplement was recommended microbiome, to which she discouraged me from implementing too to address root causes. “I like to approach everything from a many acne targeted and antibacterial products into my regime. food perspective because you can never overdo it with food “When you’ve wiped all those other good bugs, the bad bugs start source supplements.” kind of taking up that space,” Natalie warned. The other more anticipated culprit was sugar, which can play Finally, I pressed the women on next steps and whether a referral with insulin levels and in turn, play havoc on the skin. “When you to a GP or dermatologist would be on the cards. For Natalie, a have sugar, your blood sugar spikes blood test was the start and end and effects insulin which is the point. “I think it would be great hormone that actually locks sugar just to get a check-up from your away into the cells. When that’s all doctor, just to check in.” she been activated for too long, that suggested. However, when it will actually boost testosterone came to matters of the skin, both as well. Testosterone produces warned that a blanket, medicinal sebum. Sugar also stimulates that approach may be offered only. stress response and that cortisol Some clients prefer a quick, direct Natalie McGrath, naturopath and as well.” To discourage my usual solution, “but the issue with that founder of GlowSo 3pm sugar hit, Natalie argued that is that clinical studies show the the best way for me to “set up rebound after antibiotics and [my] metabolism, blood sugar and steroids to be quite high,” says energy for the day” is with protein. Madona. “Antibiotics only work “The biggest thing with women, especially mums, is a deficiency in on bacteria, perioral and periocular dermatitis and not on bacteria, protein. We need that protein to make our happy hormones and but most of the time, they’re given the doxycycline because that neurotransmitters [work], which regulate our blood sugar.” Stress family is anti inflammatory. There is also a pharmaceutical drug burns through nutrients that would otherwise be used in the body called spironolactone which blocks the antigens, but personally to keep organs like the skin functioning optimally. According to I think [a client] should have that [skin issue] for years. It’s like Natalie, vitamins B, C and zinc should be replenished to maximise with certain treatments like a Sebaceous Gland Ablation (SGA) healthy skin regeneration. where you have recurring blemishes in a spot for two years prior It’s in this regard that the need for specialist collaboration is so to eligibility. I think as well if a person is going through a biological apparent. “We very much work closely [with naturopaths] because change, they should wait for it. Of course, pharmaceutical drugs what I do is more of a mineral rebalancing,” Madona explains. “If have to work, they are formulated to work, but that’s why they there were deeper, more complex issues, like your periods were should only be taken under the care of a practitioner or physician irregular for example, then we look for symptoms because I do because there are side effects associated with them.” see that we’re the first point of contact in most cases.” The skin, While aestheticians and naturopaths are not able to diagnose she believes, is a portal to what’s happening on the inside. Looking certain issues like rosacea or seborrheic dermatitis, Madona says at it from the surface, inflammation is at the heart of the issue. that on 90 percent of occasions, clients won’t require dematologist Like Natalie, Madona recommended a moderate intake of zinc to intervention. Similarly, referrals to her by GPs and dermatologists manage inflammation and support wound healing. are virtually non-existent. “This is really bothersome to me because Talking topically, Madona’s guidance began with homecare, you think that you’d all work in tangent. Unfortunately, there’s through which she believes clients can achieve a lot without the no multidisciplinary approach here… treatment options with a need for in-clinic treatment. For me, she suggested a menu of dermatologist are very cut and copy. This is where I feel like we salicylic or mandelic acid to “help with decongesting the skin, delve a little bit deeper - what’s causing this? How can we eliminate ensuring the sebaceous glands are de-oiled,” a serum containing it so then you don’t get a rebound?” centella asiatica and/or zinc “for their anti-inflammatory Two weeks, a revised skincare routine, minimal dairy and a properties,” and a clay mask like bentonite or green clay, which nightly vitamin hit later, and my skin has certainly calmed down. can “help with absorbing excess oil and drawing out impurities.” Recognising the need to give myself a break in the interest of Niacinamide, too is considered a great all-rounder. “I would avoid my skin has also been essential. Whether or not I’d seek medical the temptation to over exfoliate the blemishes away as well as advice for this issue is debatable, but certainly a clearer treatment picking at them which could lead to unwanted scarring and further path has been drawn out for me with thanks to the guidance of my exacerbate the inflammation present. I recommend icing the naturopath and aesthetician. n

“Stress burns through nutrients that would otherwise be used in the body to keep organs like the skin functioning optimally.”

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career

HOW I GOT HERE

WENDY REINER

FOUNDER OF KISUNA

Tell us what inspired you to set up your brand? “It’s been a long road to KISUNA. I first started in this industry as a beauty educator during my divorce in 2008. Prior to that, apart from being the proud mother of two boys, my career roots were in cardiopulmonary technology and acupuncture. A strange combination, however, when life hit me in the face with circumstances that triggered a severe adult acne breakout, the sudden death of my fit and healthy father at age 58 made me stop and take stock of my life.” It sounds like your father was a big inspiration for you to follow your dreams… “I had been thinking about developing a cosmeceutical because the only products available to me were teenage acne products and I was unable to use anti-ageing products. When I was growing up, Dad used to say to me “You never know when your number is up. Every day since I served in Vietnam has been a bonus, I’m living on borrowed time.” His death was that moment of impact when I decided to take matters into my own hands and develop a product that focused on skin equilibrium and anti-ageing.” The skincare range was a success. Tell us about that… “I successfully sold it into a large laser and aesthetics chain. I was exhausted and needed to retreat from the corporate world, COVID was a trigger to make some life changes. I exited the business mid 2020 and took time to nurture myself and my family. However, I have an active mind, and I’m unable sit still for too long. My mind had kept moving toward the desire to create something that was all about a return to self. I have, otherwise, always been involved in creating products for clinics with bright lights, lasers and needles. I wanted to create something that was like a meditation for skin, that was absorbed in nature, was truly Australian, didn’t compromise on activity, held sustainability values, and gave back to the world. Hence KISUNA.” There are so many brands on the market – how do you create a difference? “You create a difference by identifying the gap and then developing a solution. My very first brand was a result of personally suffering with adult acne. I couldn’t find a brand that soothed my acne and took care of my ageing concerns. The first brand was all about a solution for a complex problem, often products created by people who live with the issue and are

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exhausted by the lack of help or care that is out there. Frustration is a good motivator. I took a leap of faith, backed myself and became a formulator and used my knowledge on human biology to unpack acne and build a brand that delivered results. KISUNA is different, in addition to activity, it’s focus is on showcasing the power Australian botanicals and sustainability. After much market research, I decided I needed to create a brand that didn’t compromise on activity and quality but satisfied all sections of conscious and sustainable beauty. Using the combination of science, pure extracts, luxury oils for activity, feel, and absorbency using natural preservation and elimination of ingredients that are harmful to the environment and are know to increase chemical load in the human body.” What’s the one thing you wished you had have known in hindsight? “When I initially started out in 2008, I was very naive about the world of business, and I was shocked how people behave when they discover that you have something they think they can either take from you or capitalise on. As a single female in business, I found this to be the greatest lesson of all. Be careful who you trust. “ Business is one of those customised personal development programs designed by life. Hindsight is just a talking point and there is no point focusing on the past. We can kick ourselves for making a mistake. But making a mistake is much easier to live with if you reframe it as a lesson in what not to do. It is only a mistake if you keep doing the same thing.” Any other important business lessons? “The one thing I wish I had done from the very beginning was to trust my intuition. If I had followed it every time throughout my business life, there would have been far less stress and more money in my pocket at the end of the day.” Any mentors or brands that inspired you? “I am inspired by any woman who made it on their own without a man, a partner, or family support. After I went through divorce, I was truly on my own. I promised myself I would make sure I could weather any storm and that I

career

could look after my emotional, physical, and financial self. I had children to raise, and I had to be a beacon for them.” As a single business woman and mother – what are some useful tools you use to keep forging ahead? “It sounds simple, but in times when I have hit the wall and struggle to get up, I have relied on one of four things to reset and motivate myself. One is an inspirational song, an inspirational YouTube video, Theodore Roosevelt’s “Man in the Arena” speech, and remembering my why (which is bigger than me). I have always painted a vision of the end goal, what that looks like, how I know when I get there, and then I feel it.” How important is sustainability as a brand? “For a brand, sustainability isn’t an option, it’s a necessity and a responsibility in every business. All companies, worldwide, have an obligation to implement sustainability into their business practice. Consumers are demanding it, and even more than that, the survival of our planet demands it.” What were the major challenges for you in starting the brand? “For me, the major challenge in starting any brand is initially facing the unknown. What if I fail? What does life look like then? What will people think?

However, over the last 15 years, I’ve learned that I am very capable of navigating fear. Whilst its uncomfortable, breaking through that barrier is very satisfying. You don’t start a business unless you are willing to risk it all. Anyone who was successful in business will say it wasn’t easy, and I remember there were times I thought I was going to sweat blood.” Any roadblocks to being successful? “The biggest challenge you will ever face is that voice in your head that says you’re not good enough. Business is like raising a child, you make mistakes on the first, but experience makes you better for the second.” Tell us your business motto? “Be honest and truthful. Much like in life, Karma has a way of taking care of dishonest people. The industry is small, and reputation is everything. If you make a mistake, admit it, take responsibility, and apologise. Operate with integrity, no one likes liars, and no one trusts liars. Lying might get you a sale but it doesn’t get you repeat sales or customer loyalty in the long run.” If you weren’t doing this tell us where we would find you in this world? “Probably running a retreat or wellness centre or studying something like kinesiology” n

info@lycon.com.au

www.lycon.com.au

TOPO OL W E S R

wellness

Maximise your in-salon or at-home routine with a beauty tool or two.

Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and product curation: Hannah Gay

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RIGHT Wildling Facial Gua Sha Empress Stone Wildling hello@wildling.com Qi Beauty Anti-Age Matrix Home Kit Qi Beauty International 07 5527 3002 Rezenerate Nonoglobes In2Skin Australia 1300 660 297 Ecococo Crystal Jade Eye Mushrooms Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 By The Be. Clear Quartz Gua Sha The Beautique 02 6101 8001

LEFT Edible Beauty Australia Beauty Tool Edible Beauty admin@ediblebeautyaustralia.com Skinceuticals Dermaroller Skinceuticals 1300 060 116 Regal by Anh Rose Quartz Facial Roller Le Beauty lebeauty.com.au Skin O2 Dermaroller Skin O2 07 5593 4488 Australian Skin Institute Dermaroller Australian Skin Institute admin@australianskininstitute.com.au

wellness

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

The Australian Made

NĒKTAR

Former lawyer Katheryn Blewett has created a bespoke range of contemporary personal care products providing clean and honest formulations. She chats to Anita Quade about sourcing the finest ingredients and her life-changing journey.

Congratulations on your launch of nēktar Australia – tell me how this came about? “I was inspired by fragrance from a very young age. I had an absurdly large interest in collecting miniature French perfumes and by the time I was in high school I had collected over 300 of them. I was always fascinated by fragrance and its ability to transport the senses. Close your eyes, inhale, and with one smell of a particular fragrance you could be anywhere in that moment. It was when I visited Grasse Fragonard perfumery in the South of France, the mecca of fragrance in the world, that I realised this was the space

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that I wanted to immerse myself in. I was inspired by the scents and surroundings and it was at this moment where I envisaged marrying the concept of sustainability with scent and aesthetic sophistication. When I came back home to Australia I began immediately researching and liaising with the contacts I had connected with in France to get nēktar in its pre developmental stages.” You are a former lawyer – what sparked your interest in the wellness sector? “My now, late father, was a biochemist and specialist formulator, so it was a natural

predisposition for me to gravitate towards this line of work. Growing up my dad taught me to ingredient read and I was always so fascinated to learn and do my own research in this area. It was something that came naturally to me and that I really enjoyed doing. It gave me power to know I could understand the listed ingredients and what they meant. Whether it was the ingredients on detergent, or a packet of chips or a hand cream, I instantly knew how to review and asses the product, a skill I still possess to this day. There was always a strong focus on ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ in our house and it has always been something I am very passionate about. That has transitioned to present day into all aspects of my life and raising a family with two young boys. I am slowly trying to educate and pass down the ingredient reading tradition.” Your line of curated personal care and home products are built around the promise to deliver clean living luxury and sustainability – how important was this to you when launching the brand? “There is such a strong focus on sustainability in our society and it is the only way forward. Ensuring that the brand fulfilled this aspect along with also remaining clean and natural was crucial to nēktar’s ethos. When nēktar was in its

wellness

developmental stages we never wavered on our vision to maintain pure and clean ingredient formulations.” Was it difficult to deliver on this and be Australian made? “There are always challenges when creating a brand and developing nēktar was certainly no exception. These challenges are more so evidenced when you have an extremely high level of expectation for your brand. It was a non-negotiable for me that nēktar would embody everything that is Australian. From employing Australian manufacturers to making our formulations and fragrances from scratch. Our ingredient formulations are bespoke and made locally in small batches. Having manufacturing facilities in Australia was incredibly important because I knew it would enable me to have full access and control over my brand and I would get to oversee all aspects of its development. Creating strong relationships with your manufacturers and other business partners is a crucial element to establishing a well thought out brand. It can of course be a more expensive venture when you do everything locally, however, you can’t put a price on quality and full control.” How hard was it to find a niche in the ever-growing market of body/ wellness products? “There’s certainly no denying that the market has an extensive amount of personal care and home products and it is a competitive industry, but I am of the belief that there is room in the market for everyone. Being a certified Australian made and owned company definitely sets up apart from the competition. To make the claim ‘made in Australia’ and to actually be ‘certified’ are two very different levels of aknowledgement. If you are certified then you have gone through the Australian Made governing body and have been reviewed and every component of each of your products has been audited. Anyone can really make the claim that they are made in Australia.” Any other ways you set yourself apart? “We also make sure we have ingredient transparency and honesty. We even put our ingredients on the front

display of our washes and lotions. A lot of brands will claim they are natural and this can often mean their ingredients listing contains only one natural ingredient out of 30. From beginning to end our ingredients are natural and clean and we remain true to our ethos.” It took four years to formulate your range what was one of the biggest challenges? “Product development and ensuring the integrity of a product have by far been the most challenging. I always have a vision for each product I release. I know how I want it to feel, smell and look, however, it’s one thing to know what you want, and it’s another thing for that vision to be achievable. I have spent months/ years trialling and reworking formulas with my manufacturers to get a desired outcome. It has been the case where we have mastered a scent but then the application to which it was applied would change the composition of the scent altogether! Fragrances, and especially ones containing essential oils, need to be suited and reworked for each new format they are used in ie candle, diffusers, hand creams etc, so it is a mammoth achievement when you can finalise a whole range in one scent. It is an incredibly lengthy process but it truly is rewarding when you see that product range finally come to life.” You certainly did your research on fragrance spending a year to develop this and visiting Grasse to meet with world class perfumers. Why was scent so important? “Scent is everything. It evokes so many feelings from the past to the present, places to people, scent is just such an integral part of our lives. It was important for me to create scents that captured a certain feeling or emotion.

have 5 current scents in our range and in developing these we tried to diversify the pallet in order to accommodate for everyone. People are very specific when it comes to scents they like, so we have created a range which we feel has covered most scent types across a suite of products. From masculine to gentle white florals to aquatic and slightly gourmand, I would like to think we have satisfied the consumer’s choice for fragrance.” Where did you source your ingredients from? “All of our ingredients are sourced locally within Australia. Our fragrances are made and formulated from scratch. A lot of brands utilise ready-made generic fragrance. We do not employ this method. It has taken a lot of trial and error and many months/years developing the scents to get them right. Our fragrances are infused with essential oils and we have complete confidence knowing that no one else has the exact same fragrances as our carefully crafted range of products.” Everything is done by hand from filling the lotions to pouring the candles – how time consuming is this to be such a bespoke company? “Hand pouring and hand filling is of course more labour intensive, however, everything we do is based on quality and ensuring complete product integrity. Developing our products in this way provides the consumer with the assurance that they are receiving a quality handcrafted product each and every time.” Your products are free from nasties and 100% cruelty free and vegan – was it difficult to nail this? “It was extremely challenging trying to formulate products without all the nasty compounds. Once you remove these and substitute for natural you find the formulation and consistency of the product changes altogether, which is why we don’t substitute. We create our formulations from scratch and base our formulations around a bespoke composition to ensure all the natural components work synergistically together. Seeing my products on display. It is truly such an amazing experience.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

business

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TAX TIPS FOR BEAUTY STAFF

Nobody wants to pay more tax than they have to and the key to minimising your taxes is to ensure that you claim all the tax deductions you’re entitled to. For those who work in the beauty industry here is a ticklist of potential claims that are worth considering. By Mark Chapman. The Golden Rules of Tax Deductions If you want to make a claim for work-related expenses, you need to follow the three golden rules: ♦ The expense must relate to your work ♦ You mustn’t have been reimbursed by your employer ♦ You must be able to prove that you spent the money. That means that you must keep receipts, invoices or statements to demonstrate that you actually incurred the expense. H&R Block’s tip is to keep electronic copies of all documentation relating to expenses. Paper receipts get lost or fade, so keeping everything together on your phone or computer will save time and effort when you come to complete next year’s tax return.

Equipment You can claim the cost of buying tools and equipment that you use in your job or business. If the item costs $300 or less, you can claim it straight away and if the cost is more than $300, the cost is depreciated over several years. If you’re in business on your own account, rather than being employed by someone else, you can immediately write off all items of equipment whatever the cost. This could include makeup brushes and applicators, waxing kits, mobile phones, laptops and bags or briefcases. You can also claim the cost of insuring work-related equipment.

Get Help There’s a reason why nearly 74% of people use a tax agent to help them do their taxes. Tax is complicated and stressful and if you do it yourself, you’re likely to make a mistake. You might claim something you weren’t entitled to and find yourself audited by the ATO or you might miss out on a deduction you could have claimed but didn’t realise was available to you; the result is a lower refund than you could have got. Using a tax agent like H&R Block takes away the stress and opens up a whole world of expertise to guide you through the process, so you can be sure you’re claiming everything you’re entitled to. You wouldn’t generally choose to treat a medical condition yourself; you’d see a doctor so why should tax be different? Get expert advice and the fee will generally be more than covered by the bigger refund, and the peace of mind.

Self-Education You can claim the cost of any work-related courses that you undertake, provided that they relate directly to your current role and aren’t intended to boost your skills into a promotion or another role entirely. That could include courses on makeup techniques, massage and nails. It could also include management training if you supervise staff. Courses run by a university or TAFE such as Cert IV in Beauty Therapy or Diploma in Salon Management could also be relevant. In addition to the cost of the course, you can claim travel costs to and from the course, accommodation and meals if you’re required to sleep away from home, books, stationery and depreciation on computer equipment used in your study.

Using your car If you use your car as part of your work, for instance to travel to clients, between jobs, to expos or to collect supplies, you can claim the costs of your work-related journeys. If you use your own car, either claim 72 cents per kilometre up to a maximum 5,000 kms or keep a logbook and claim your actual expenses. You can also claim for parking, tolls and public transport if you don’t use your car. You can’t claim the costs of traveling to and from work (the daily commute) though you might be able to make a claim if you’re required to transport bully equipment, which you can’t safely store at work (TIP: the ATO checks such claims closely so make sure you can prove your claim).

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Clothing If you’re required to wear a uniform at your workplace, the cost of purchasing the uniform is claimable and you can also claim for the cost of cleaning the uniform. Conventional clothing doesn’t count as a uniform so ideally any garment you claim for should have the business logo on it. You can also claim for protective items such as gloves, aprons, hats or hair nets, goggles and non-slip shoes. COVID-19 If you are in an occupation that requires physical contact or proximity with customers or clients during the COVID-19 period, like the beauty industry, you can claim a deduction for items such as:

business

♦ ♦ ♦ ♦

Gloves Face masks Sanitiser Antibacterial spray. In relation to COVID-19 tests, the government has announced that it’s making COVID-19 tests tax-deductible for Australian individuals when they are purchased for work-related purposes from 1 July 2021. However, the cost of the tests may already be tax deductible. Under the existing general deduction provisions, an individual may qualify for a tax deduction for the cost of a COVID-19 test (either PCR or RAT) where they are taken for work-related purposes, eg where there is a mandatory requirement under your employer’s COVID-19 policy. A COVID-19 test may also be required by certain countries and states in order for an employee to enter that territory or return to their home state. This too is tax deductible where the test is required for a work-related trip. RAT kits purchased by individuals for private purposes (eg personal travel, convenience, no access to PCR testing) will not be tax deductible, either under existing law or under the government’s proposals. If you incur transport expenses to get to and from the site of a COVID-19 PCR test (or expenses in traveling to the chemist or supermarket to acquire an RAT), these will not be tax deductible as

they are regarded as private expenses, even if the test is a condition of your employment. Working from home As a result of COVID-19, you have probably had to relocate your working activity from business premises to your home. If so, you can claim a rate of 80 cents per work hour, so you will need to keep a record of the number of hours you have worked from home as a result of COVID-19. This will apply until at least 30 June 2022. If you use the 80 cents per hour method, you can make no other claims in relation to working from home. So, items like mobile phone and internet usage are included in the 80-cent rate. The alternative rate of 52 cents per hour may be more appropriate. This doesn’t include phone costs, home internet or the cost of writing off home IT equipment so when you make separate claims for those expenses, you may find that your total claim is higher. Your tax agent will be able to advise on which method produces the best results. n

Mark Chapman is Director of Tax Communications at H&R Block. www.hrblock.com.au

“

We do everything on iPads. When a client comes in, they can update their information, and if they haven’t been to us before, we send them digital forms before the appointment which makes life really easy for us.

IT’S ALSO MORE EFFICIENT FOR THE CLIENT BECAUSE IT STREAMLINES THEIR APPOINTMENT AND ENSURES THEIR THERAPIST KNOWS THEIR NEEDS. Louise Dickinson Owner of Chrysalis Beauty

”

www.kitomba.com Talk to us: 1800 161 101

diary

VIDA GLOW

Vida Glow hosted an interactive brand immersion with founder Anna Lahey at their HQ in North Sydney to celebrate Hairology, the brand’s launch into haircare. Beauty media, talent, and VIP customers were treated to collagen refreshments, manicures, skin-analysis by in-house scientists, and hair styling courtesy of Dyson Australia. The brand is best known for their science-led directive in skin support. Hairology is an ingestible vegan capsule that reduces hair thinning and supports hair growth at the follicle by revitalising and strengthening strands from within. Hair loss and hair thinning is becoming a leading beauty concern for all people globally, and while the process is a natural part of hair’s renewal cycle, external factors like stress, hormones, and nutritional deficiencies can lead to excessive shedding and brittle hair. The product is to be consumed once daily with a meal and promises tangible results in 28 days and is suitable for all people and all hair types. Founder of Vida Glow Anna Lahey said: “We’re always thinking about the consumer, about their leading beauty concerns and how we can offer an effective and convenient solution. Almost 50% of women are affected by hair loss at some stage in their life. And naturally, that can have a big emotional impact. We developed Hairology as a hair-specific formula. To help renew confidence and rebuild your relationship with your hair.”

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INTRODUCING A STATE-OF-THE-ART

LIFTING AND BRIGHTENING PROGRAMME THREE STEPS FOR BRIGHTER AND FIRMER LOOKING SKIN

ONE

PROFESSIONAL PATENT-PENDING FORMULATION APPLIED IN-CLINIC

TWO NOURISH AND PROTECT

THREE CONTINUE STIMULATION

All ages All areas All skin types All year-round

A REVOLUTION IN NEEDLE-FREE BIOREVITALISATION THAT STIMULATES THE SKIN’S NATURAL RESTORATIVE PROCESS LIKE NEVER BEFORE Before

wiqo.com.au | 1800 242 011

After 3 sessions

diary

HABITUAL BEAUTY LAUNCHES WITH BEAUTY’S TOP MEDIA

Skincare and wellness brand Habitual Beauty hosted leading beauty journalists and influencers for their first official event since launching in July last year. The event was held at Homestead Restaurant at Sydney’s Centennial Park. Multiple sessions ran across the day, hosting a combined total of 80 media representatives over nibbles and collagen-infused beverages. The event was managed by Echo Communications and was eloquently styled with native flowers, soft pink roses and dehydrated fruit - reflective of the brand’s attention to natural ingredients. Professional Beauty’s Hannah Gay attended the soiree, and chatted to fellow beauty editors over a sit-down brunch. Guests enjoyed smashed avocado on charcoal toast with feta, coconut chia pudding and coffee. Floating glasses of the brand’s signature Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen Elixir drink were also available to taste. The Glow Journal’s Gemma Watts hosted the event, conducting a Q&A with Habitual Beauty founder and entrepreneur Keria Rumble. Keira used the opportunity to detail her story, launching the brand from the hospital in which she was due to give birth to her son Hunter any day. All guests were treated to a generous gift containing some of Habitual Beauty’s hero products, including the Hydrating Sleep Mask and sachets of Collagen Elixir.

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For more information on how to add Potenza to your Clinic, contact infoaustralia@cynosure.com CYNOSUREAUSTRALIA.COM

Cynosure Australia

©2022. Cynosure, LLC. All rights reserved. Cynosure is a registered trademark of Cynosure, LLC. Potenza is a trademark of Cynosure, LLC. Cynosure, LLC. owns exclusive rights to photography. Use of photography without written permission of Cynosure is prohibited. Model for illustrative purposes only and not an actual consumer of the product.

diary

URLIQUE SUPPORTS MOTHER NATURE

Guests gathered in the lush surrounds of the Chiswick restaurant to celebrate those who Mother. The stunning three-course luncheon was a chance to unveil the brand’s stunning Mother’s Day offering in collaboration with Indigenous Artists Miimi & Jiinda. Guest of honour, artist Lauren Jarrett of Miimi & Jiinda joined Jurlique Farm Manager Cherie Hutchinson to discuss Lauren’s personal stories as an Indigenous woman, respect for nature and the importance of living in harmony with the land. Jurlique Farm Manager, Cherie Hutchinson talked guests through Jurlique’s own unique Biodynamic Farming practices and how they harness the power of mother nature in the Seed to Skin journey.

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info@naturallook.com.au

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diary

ALYA SKIN Australian skincare brand Alya skin unveiled the latest addition to its ever-growing range – the Pink Marine Collagen Sleep Mask to plump and refresh skin over a stunning lunch at the iconic Mimis Restaurant in Coogee. Brand founders Manny Barbas and James Hachem, who founded the skincare company Alya Skin in 2018 revealed to guests the journey of their skincare brand since starting out in 2018 with the best-selling Australian pink clay face mask, at aged 20 years old. Since then they have turned over $20 million, selling to 500,000 customers across 5000 global retail stores. During the afternoon Guests dined on delicious freshly shucked oysters, scallop and grilled murray cod over the impressive beach views.

WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU

www.venusconcept.com www.venustreatments.com

info.au@venusconcept.com

index ABIC 99 Advanced Cosmeceuticals 15, 51, 69, 91, BC Artav 45, 94 BEAUTY & SPA Insiders 6 -7 Curtis Collection 81 Cynosure 93 Dermaesthetics 19 Dermaenergy 13 Dermalogica FC, 17 Fresha 95 Intraceuticals 63 Kisuna 52-53 Kitomba 89 Lycon 77, 83 Organic Spa 48-49 Payot 2-3 Podium 47 Professional Beauty Solutions 4-5 Sothys 38-39 Timely 71 Venus 97

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What ABIC membership

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The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council is committed to providing authentic, ethical, and accessible support for the betterment of the professional spa, beauty and aesthetics industry. We represent you, as your trusted voice and influential representative body. As an ABIC member, you'll receive exclusive access to a range of benefits including: An extensive library of expert-created business resources Education sessions with sought-after industry specialists Daily access to advice from ABIC facilitators The latest relevant industry news and updates Government representation to ensure your voice is heard Your membership not only benefits you as an individual or business, but drives the success and the health of our collective industry. Together, across Australia, with your support we can make a difference.

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Professional Beauty May-June 2022

Articles inside

DIARY: ALYA SKIN

DIARY: HABITUAL BEAUTY

DIARY: VIDA GLOW

WELLNESS: NĒKTAR

CAREER: WENDY REINER, FOUNDER OF KISUNA

TALKING BEAUTY: A SECOND OPINION

SALON INTERIOE PROFILE: QED SKINCARE

BEAUTY BLACK BOOK: SUSANNE KAUFMANN

PROFILE: HÜD

STYLE FILE: GOING GREEN

SALON PROFILE: GILLIAN ADAMS

BEAUTY AND SPA INSIDERS

PROMOTION: SUSTAINABLE CHANGE FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

PROMOTION: KISUNA

TALKING POINT: SOTHYS

TALKING POINT: ORGANICSPA TACKLES ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE

TALKING POINT: PAYOT

TALKING POINT: ADVANCED COSMECUTICALS

COVER STORY: MAKING A SUSTAINABLE CHANGE

BEAUTY INVESTIGATION: THE CONSCIOUS CONSUMER