Issue 9: The Royal Wagyu by Time Out Tokyo

INSIDE! Nabe and natural wine Just what you need for winter dinners Where to try nail art From abstract to 3D to perfect portraits Go towards the light The best city illumination events JAN - MAR 2016 NO.9 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

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In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

January – March 2016

Hello Tokyo… So you think wagyu cows are relaxing in the field, getting massages, drinking beer and listening to classical music? This is just one of the myths of wagyu. Although the cows are treated a little like family, there’s more to the beef’s superior quality than just the cattles’ lifestyle. In our 13-page wagyu guide, we give you all the facts and figures, plus introduce you to some of the best restaurants for tasting the beef – whether you want to try it in the form of shabu shabu, yakiniku, steak, hamburger, sushi or even small intestines. Because, yes, you can eat every single part of a wagyu cow. Bon appetit!

The royal wagyu Find out why it tastes so good – and then go and taste it! p22

Inside 06 12 15 18 22 38

Tokyo Update City news, city views Tokyo Diary Essential events Courtesy calls How to drink like a local Nearly Eternal An arty foodie photo book The royal wagyu Everything you need to know, including where to eat it Eating & Drinking

Tokyo

42 Shopping & Style 46 Art & Culture 52 Music 56 Nightlife 59 Film 60 LGBT 61 Sport 62 Travel & Hotels 66 Getting Around 70 Tohoku Update 73 In Tokyo, the home is a spa 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when…

Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Yasunari Kikuma (MILD) Lighting: Hataart, Komaden Props: Studio Roof Wagyu: Ozaki beef

WAGYU, NABE: YASUHISA SHIMBO, NAIL ART: KISA TOYOSHIMA, TAKASHI MURAKAMI: ANNEMARIE LUCK

Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

Tokyo

The best nabe The best nail When it’s cold art From perfect outside, you need portraits to mini a hot pot hottie, p38 masterpieces, p42

The best The best exhibitions See illuminations Takashi Murakami’s Brave the chill to new show, p46 see the lights, p56

JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND THE TOKYOITE BLOG

Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Annemarie Luck annemarieluck@timeout.jp Planning Editor Ryoko Baba ryokobaba@timeout.jp Digital Content Editor

facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Editorial Assistants Mayumi Koyama Kosuke Shimizu Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Staff Writers

Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Manabu Morooka Administration Momo Ando Yuko Ota Distribution Takaki Matsuda Takahiro Takeuchi

Yasuhisa Shimbo Kisa Toyoshima Kunihiro Miki Joyce Lam Mari Hiratsuka Aisté Riabovaité Shiori Kotaki Jun Harada Crystal J Huang

@TimeOutTokyo Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman Hiroshi Hasegawa

timeout.com/tokyo/blog International Content Director Marcus Webb International Art Director Anthony Huggins International Managing Director Time Out Digital David Woodley Universal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, President, TO Group Noel Penzer W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Founder +44 (0)20 7813 3000 Tony Elliott

Keep up to date every day! Our magazine may only be quarterly, but you can get daily updates on our website – which recently had a makeover – as well as on our Facebook and Twitter pages. Head over to www.timeout.com/tokyo for all the latest news and events, all fed to you in one very spiffy looking package, if we do say so ourselves. FIND US www.timeout.com/tokyo

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For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5

CITY FAQ

Why do Tokyoites eat KFC on Christmas?

orget sitting around a long table wearing party hats, throwing streamers and tucking into delicious homemade roast chicken or turkey with stuffing for Christmas Eve dinner. In Tokyo, you order your family-sized KFC bucket in advance (lest they run out of stock) and tuck in to your greasy finger lickin’ meal. Log onto KFC’s website in December and you’ll find a fully branded page called ‘Kentucky Christmas’, with details of the different options available (the standard barrel costs around ¥4,000 and comes with salad and a chocolate cake). Considering that Japan is not a Christian nation and Christmas day is not a national holiday, the KFC tradition is perhaps less odd than the fact the holy occasion is even celebrated. And it comes as no surprise that it’s all one big marketing campaign, which began in 1974 when a group of foreigners reportedly ended up at KFC upon realising it was impossible to buy a turkey in Tokyo.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

OTHER ODD XMAS CUSTOMS

Thankfully, we’re not alone in our strange traditions. We asked Time Out editors around the world how their city celebrates Christmas… ‘A “tronca” or log, fondly named Caga tió (‘Poo log’), is set up with legs, a smiling face, and a red hat. Families feed the Caga tió and children take good care of Caga tió so he will poop better gifts. On Christmas, children sit on the log, beat it with a stick and sing the Caga tió song.’ – Time Out Barcelona ‘In Porto Alegre, we have a blue and a red Santa. This is because the rivalry between the two city football clubs is so fierce that the fans of Grêmio (blue uniform) refuse to wear red (colour of the rival team, Internacional).’ – Time Out São Paulo ‘We burn an olive leaf in the fireplace. If the leaf turns over while burning, this means the person we love does love us back!’ – Time Out Greece ‘In China, people give apples as gifts because the word for Christmas Eve (ping’an ye) sounds like the word for apple (pingguo)’ – Time Out Beijing ‘In Braga there is a tradition called “bananeiro”. On Christmas Eve, thousands of people gather on the street to eat a banana and drink a glass of muscatel wine.’ – Time Out Porto

Kotatsu dining Now you can try the Japanese tradition of eating dinner at a table that’s covered with a blanket and has a small heater underneath at these restaurants: Casita in Aoyama (tinyurl. com/TOTcasita) and Ryogoku Terrace Café (tinyurl.com/TOTterrace).

Shibuya’s ‘smart mall’ Opened in November, Shibuya Modi is packed with cafés, restaurants and even a luxe karaoke spot. Best of all, it sees the return of HMV in the form of three-floor superstore HMV & Books Tokyo. Here are five reasons to visit: tinyurl.com/TOTmodi

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Cosy hostels We’ve seen a spate of interestingly themed hostels popping up lately and the latest one to catch our attention is Nihonbashi’s Irori, which features a traditional Japanese sunken hearth. Perfect for winter cooking and socialising. tinyurl.com/TOTirori

‘We have a celebration called “posadas” that reenacts the procession of Mary and Joseph in search of a place to stay in Bethlehem. People hold candles, sing songs and break some piñatas that represent Satan and the seven cardinal sins.’ – Time Out Mexico

KFC CHRISTMAS: JESSCONSTANCY/PIXTA, KOTATSU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA, MODI: MARI HIRATSUKA, WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?: ANNEMARIE LUCK

Tokyo update

WHAT’S APP’ENING Find a ski resort and explore Sapporo this winter

JAPAN SNOW GUIDE What’s it for? Finding top ski resorts in Japan (but also read our article on page 62). How does it work? Start by choosing the area you’re interested in and then just explore from there. It’s a very informative and detailed app that gives information on mountain conditions, weather, shops for finding winter gear, real-time accommodation bookings and downloadable trail maps. Get it Free from the App store and Google Play.

Where in Tokyo is this? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken on our blog at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: The outfits are perhaps a dead giveaway as to the neighbourhood, but look behind them… What’s that guy doing and where is he doing it?

SAPPORO INFO What’s it for? Everything you need to know about Hokkaido’s capital (but also read our guide, ‘50 things to do in Sapporo’, at tinyurl.com/ TOTsapporo-guide). How does it work? Providing over 160 videos and images introducing various tourist attractions in Sapporo, this app offers the latest seasonal events, recommended local information, and useful tourist tools including maps and brochures. You can use it to plan your trip and also while sightseeing as the content can still be accessed offline once downloaded. Get it Free from the App store and Google Play. tinyurl.com/ TOTsapporo

Love food? Love Japan? Then you’ll want to get your hands on ‘Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan’s Food Culture’. This beautiful book was released in October by ‘Roads and Kingdoms’, a travel journalism website with American chef Anthony Bourdain as its editor-at-large. It delves into Japan’s spectacular culinary world through the experiences of author Matt Goulding as he carves out a path through seven different regions and cities. roadsandkingdoms.com

Promotional feature

Great news for sushi lovers

LOCAL INSIGHT

ow do you say ‘I’ll have the chef’s choice’ in Japanese? Is it omake... omote...? Once you’re through the curtains of a traditional sushi restaurant, you might find yourself faced with a chef who doesn’t speak English, but you’re stuck, not wanting to seem rude by turning around and leaving. In these situations, Google Translate is your only solution and you might end up stuttering your way through your meal. The good news is you won’t have this problem at the newly opened Sushi-Nova chain. All you need to do is select what you’d like to eat on the multilingual touch panel in front of you, and soon afterwards your fresh sushi will be delivered to your table. At Tokyo’s most foreigner-friendly sushi restaurant, you can eat your fill without needing to speak or understand a single word of Japanese.

Select one of our popular sushi plates WHERE TO FIND A SUSHI-NOVA RESTAURANT Sushi-Nova Aoyama Oval Building 1F Aoyama Oval Building, 5-52-2 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 6433 5017. Daily 11am-11pm (LO 10.30pm).

The ordering device is compatible with multiple languages (English, simplified Chinese, Korean, Japanese)

Sushi-Nova Harajuku Takeshita Street 2F Ito Building, 1-6-12 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 03 6455 5227. Daily 11am-11pm (LO 10.30pm).

O! LL

From just ¥120

Our multinational staff are here to welcome you

Sushi-Nova Shibuya Bunkamura Street B1F Shibuya A2 Building, 28-3 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 0551. Daily 11am-11pm (LO 10.30pm).

Sushi-Nova Asakusa Shin-Nakamise 1F Asakusa Daito Building, 1-22-3 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5246 4334. Daily 11am-11pm (LO 10.30pm).

Free wi-fi and phone charging are available at your table

www.susinova.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Local legends #9

Mizuki Tanaka with one of her murals at Daini-kotobuki-yu sento in Edogawa ward

Looking for a food tour?

The one-of-a-kind sento artist At Time Out, we spend a lot of time hunting down the best eating and drinking spots to help you experience all the gastronomic delights this city has to offer. Unfortunately, we can’t actually take you from restaurant to restaurant, but that’s where Oishii Tokyo Food Tours comes in. Launched in April 2015, the tour provider has already become a massive hit among tourists and even a few locals who perhaps just want to discover a different side of various neighbourhoods. The hosts speak English, are highly entertaining, and will go out of their way to introduce you to Japan’s vibrant culture. Read our full review at tinyurl.com/TOToishi

Try on samurai armour

he sento, or public bath, has long served as a place to pause for Japanese people. As part of the tradition, many sento feature large Mt Fuji murals on the walls, the iconic mountain of Japan providing an extra dose of mental refreshment. When Mizuki Tanaka learned that the number of public baths is steadily decreasing, she resolved to become a sento artist as a way of helping to preserve the culture. Today, she is the only woman (and the youngest artist) to specialise in bathhouse murals. ‘When I started out, there were only two professional painters in Japan, including my master, and they are both in their sixties. I believe the tradition will be completely lost

unless someone takes over.’ Tanaka aims to develop the culture by making subtle changes to accommodate the modern era, while preserving the traditional painting style. She paints four or five sento a month and does live painting events to spread the culture to a younger audience. Why is the image always Mt Fuji? Tanaka says that, back in the day, glimpsing Mt Fuji (even as a mural) was a popular form of entertainment. She says there are no specific painting rules, however the mural should be completed in one day and there should never be a sunset scene since this might represent the business ‘going down’. Although there’s not much chance of that happening now that there’s a new sento artist in town.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

The samurai has been an iconic symbol of courage, power and masculinity for over 700 years of Japanese warfare history. Now you can step into a warrior’s shoes at the Samurai Museum, which opened in September in Shinjuku. The museum plans to expand the costume-wear photo session by including a complete head-to-foot gear and from December, they began holding a special sword duel re-enactment, featuring a Japanese celebrity, to provide a face-to-face visual experience of the samurai way. Read our full review at tinyurl.com/ TOTsamurai-museum

Michelin Guide 2016 in 3 minutes

SECRET CITY

The unveiling of the Michelin Guide’s Tokyo edition is always a hotly anticipated event in the foodie universe, and with good reason – the Eastern Capital has ranked number one in the world for most threestar restaurants since 2009. The 2016 guide was unveiled in December and we’re happy to report that the streak holds. Here’s a snapshot of the latest updates:

Tokyo Paris

The number of Tokyo restaurants that were awarded the top rating. That’s four more than the nine found in Paris.

3 What’s up Reversing the downward trend of the past two years, Tokyo actually gained a three-star for 2016, opening an even larger gap at the top with Paris holding steady. This year's new member of the three-star club is Kohaku, run by innovative kaiseki master Koji Koizumi.

2 What’s down The guide lists 51 two-star joints (down from 53 last year) and 153 one-star places (161 in 2015) in Tokyo.

The biggest news was… The one-starring of Sugamo’s Tsuta as the first ramen shop to ever receive a Michelin mark. (We have to brag – we included it on our list of the best ramen in Tokyo back in 2013.)

Three reasons to visit the new onsen at Mt Takao

What better way to end off a mountain walk? After a brisk climb up Mt Takao, wouldn’t it be nice to know you’re coming back down to a relaxing therapeutic bath? It’s a wish that’s finally answered by the newly opened Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu, which is ready and waiting at the foot of the mountain. There are seven baths, including outdoor ones, as well as sauna facilities.

LOCAL LEGEND: KISA TOYOSHIMA, FOOD TOUR: ANNEMARIE LUCK, SECRET CITY: JOYCE LAM

Buying tickets is really easy You pay the entrance fee via a vending machine, which has different language options including Japanese, English, Korean and Chinese (traditional and simplified). Junior high school students and older ¥1,000 (¥1,200 during high season), age four to elementary school ¥500 (¥600 during high season), children under three are free.

Enjoy a Mt Takao specialty dish Tororo is a kind of sticky food made from grating white yam. It’s a Mt Takao speciality and it’s packed with nutrients – perfect for recovery after a hike and a hot spring soak. The onsen’s menu features an abundance of tororo dishes, including Tororo Soba Noodles (¥750), Barley Tororo and Beef Tongue (¥1,480), and Raw Tuna Topped with Tororo (¥500).

Attractions off the beaten track

Tsukiji’s wooden houses A round of applause for the World Monuments Fund (WMF) and their 2016 World Monuments Watch List – they recently selected the cluster of wooden shophouses in Tokyo’s Tsukiji district as one of 50 sites worldwide that should be preserved because of their cultural heritage. They’re near to Tsukiji fish market and are considered at risk because urban redevelopment will see the market move to Toyosu in late 2016. Take a morning stroll after a sushi breakfast at Tsukiji. 6 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). Rurikoin Byakurengedo Shinjuku might be famous for its bars and nightclubs, but it is also home to Rurikoin Byakurengedo, a hi-tech, high-rise charnel house that hovers like a spaceship between office buildings near Shinjuku Station. Designed by architect Kiyoshi Sey Takeyama, the building won the Good Design Award in 2015 and has tombstone booths that can be unlocked with an electronic ID card. 2-4-3 Yoyogi, Shibuya (Shinjuku Station). Toranomon Kotohiragu Shrine The Japanese are usually reluctant to tear down any torii gates that sit at the entrance of Shinto shrines, but this doesn’t stop urban developers from building skyscrapers around or over them. Find Kotohiragu’s torii gate gracefully nested under an office tower, which is appropriately named Toranomon Kotohira Tower. The main shrine is just on the other side of the building. 1-2-7 Toranomon, Minato (Toranomon Station).

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Where is the best place to live in Tokyo? To find out which is the happiest ward, we asked readers to tell us about their ’hood. Here’s what we found…

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH IS T HIS E

VEN T

ADACHI

ITABASHI

NO ENGLISH MENUS

OKY O?

KITA

NERIMA

KATSUSHIKA

TOURIST F REE

AEROPLANES

And the winning ward is…

MINATO

Despite the population rate falling, Tokyo is still an overpopulated city with an interesting mix of people. To help you find your favourite place to live, we’ve created this handy map that breaks down each area by stereotype. So all you need to decide is, would you rather hang out with drunk salarymen or hear the sound of aeroplanes 24/7?

With its friendly community where ‘everybody knows your name’ and surprisingly affordable rent – 78% of Minato residents told us they’re happy with how much they pay – this area came out tops. The number-one reason most of you gave is its convenience – there are plenty of nearby restaurants and shops, and getting to other central parts of Tokyo like Shibuya, Omotesando and Shinjuku is easy. Also, English speakers tend to appreciate its abundance of English menus available. What's more, 92% of Minato residents said that their commute to work takes 30 minutes or less; some as short as three minutes! Other favourable areas include Setagaya and Shibuya wards.

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

EDOGAWA

EES

OTA

D O LPH INS A ND P ENGUINS

Y TR MAN SO

EX APARTPENSIVE MEN TS

MP LE

OLD ARAKAWA NERD TOSHIMA PEOPLE S SUMIDA NAKANO TAITO VIVABUNKYO FRAN LA C SUGINAMI ROBOTSHINJUKU E CHIYODA RESTAURANT CHUO KOTO TAKU HIPST O EMPEROR’S ERS SHIBUYA DRUNK MINATOS DRU CRIB FISH AL NK MARK TEENS AR ET Y T HE G ME SETAGAYA OOD LIFE N SER MEGURO SALA IOUS STS OURI RYM T E DOG SHINAGAWA N OBSESSED

Minato-ku is home to many foreign corporations and embassies. Its neighbourhoods include • Toranomon • Shimbashi • Shiba • Aoyama • Akasaka • Roppongi • Azabu • Shirokane

IS IT WORTH LIVING IN TOKYO?

85% 77%

agree that rent is reasonable. 3 in 10 pay less than ¥100,000!

manage to have a garden/balcony.

64% 70%

are proud of where they live and would ‘shout it from the rooftops’.

find themselves located in a convenient area.

SOME OF YOU DO WANT TO MOVE THOUGH Although 39% of you have no complaints about your ’hood, the rest of you said you’d prefer to move because of...

‘Drunk salarymen lurking around’

‘Lots of old people’

‘Coca Cola building’

‘People who come to shout at the Korean embassy’

‘Tourists’ ‘We have loads of pigeons’ ‘Kabukicho hustlers bugging me when I just want to go home’ ‘Loud American neighbours’ ‘No proper Sunday brunch with omelettes and eggs benedict.’

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

‘Ugly sky express highway.’

All in all, readers agree that Tokyo’s neighbourhoods offer a great balance between liveliness and peacefulness. 70% like how self-contained their neighbourhood is, having lots of restaurants, shops and entertainment options within walking distance. Though many areas of Tokyo are commercialised, 79% live nearby parks where they can relax and escape from busy city life.

‘Stupid ward rules about garbage collection.’

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

Tokyo Diary to the Fibonacci sequence. It will be taking over Nihonbashi’s Mitsui Hall in January and February. Jan 8-Feb 11 5F Coredo Muromachi, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/TOTflowers. Adults ¥1,300 (advance ¥1,100), high school students and below ¥900 (advance ¥700), toddlers free.

What’s on in town January-March 2016 Make the most of the city with our editors’ picks of the best things to do over the next three months

Tokyo Diary

SHOPPING OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET Taking place once almost every month, this market is great for picking up some cool art, unique handicrafts or time-worn decorative items. Keep an eye out for real Edoera treasures. Jan 11 & Mar 27 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOToedomarket. Free.

January SHOPPING OI RACECOURSE FLEA MARKET This flea market takes place almost every weekend at the Oi Racecourse, and usually attracts around 300 sellers. Many of the vendors are professionals, so the available wares range from the tiny to the large, from daily necessities to rare collector’s items. Do note that the market will be cancelled in the case of rain. Until Mar 27 (only weekends, closed Jan 2 & 3) Tokyo City Keiba, 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa. Free.

THINGS TO DO HATSUMODE: FIRST PRAYER Expect big crowds at Tokyo’s shrines for the first prayer, as well as food and drink stalls to keep you entertained. The atmosphere is lively, and many shrines have traditional performances such as Shishi-mai, a lion dance for good luck. Meiji is the biggest, but pretty much every shrine will be open and bustling on New Year. Jan 1 Meiji Jingu Shrine, 1-1 YoyogiKamizonocho, Shibuya. www. meijijingu.or.jp/english. Free.

THINGS TO DO RICKSHAW RIDE IN SHIBUYA Part of the New Year’s celebrations at the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, this is your chance to roll down Dogenzaka and across the Scramble Crossing in a rickshaw on the first day of 2016. The rides start and finish at the hotel, lasting for around 20-30 minutes, and require booking in advance – call 03 3476 3000 (9am to 6pm Mon-Fri) for reservations. They’re available for up to two people per rickshaw. Jan 1 Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, 26-1 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTrickshawride. ¥1,000 per person. FILM SHORT FILMS WITH THE BEST PUNCHLINE PROGRAM Brillia Shortshorts Theatre, Japan’s first theatre to focus exclusively on short films, is hosting the ‘Short Films with the Best Punch Line’ program featuring films like ‘Love Hurts’, ‘The Last Border’, ‘Tu P*** banco’, and ‘Grown Ups’. If you visit the theatre on New Year’s Day you’ll be able to watch the program for free and receive a free gift of amazake (traditional sweet drink made from fermented rice), while stocks last. Jan 1-31 Brillia Shortshorts Theatre, 2F Filmee, 5-3-1 Minatomirai, Nishi, Yokohama. www.brillia-sst.jp. Free entry on Jan 1, adults ¥1,000, 3 year olds, middle school students, seniors ¥800.

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

THINGS TO DO SKATING RINK IN MIDTOWN This outdoor ice skating rink opens for a limited time and can hold up to 210 people. Enjoy being surrounded by greenery while you skate and, from 5pm-10pm, you’ll get the added scenery of pretty illuminations. Jan 6-Mar 6 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato. Adults ¥1,500, middle school students and under ¥1,000 (includes shoe rental). THINGS TO DO FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO The annual Furusato Matsuri gives a chance for prefectures around Japan to dazzle Tokyoites with their culture – and, of course, their food. There’ll be stalls at Tokyo Dome hawking everything from sake to seafood, with special sections devoted to ramen, fancy desserts, craft beer and the like. When you’ve sated your appetite, you can sit back and watch large-scale recreations of popular festivals like Aomori’s Nebuta Matsuri and the Akita Kanto Matsuri, or the costume character dance contest. Afternoon tickets (¥1,100, entry after 4pm) have been added for this year, inviting you to swing by casually after work. Jan 8-17 Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/ TOTfurusatomatsuri. ¥1,600. ART FLOWERS BY NAKED Lightup champions Naked Inc are the crew behind this project, which incorporates a wild jumble of elements from flowers and scents

DANCE TOUCH OF THE OTHER Based on Laud Humphreys’ 1970 book called ‘Tearoom Trade’, which was an analysis of homosexual acts occurring in public toilets, this performance by Takao Kawaguchi and Jonathan M Hall hopes to positively increase awareness of Japan’s LGBT community. Jan 15-17 Spiral, 5-6-23 MinamiAoyama, Minato. tinyurl.com/ TOTtouch. ¥3,500, on the day ¥4,000, students ¥2,500. FILM KON ICHIKAWA: THE ACT OF LIGHTS AND SHADOWS One of the most influential figures of postwar Japanese cinema, Kon Ichikawa created several masterpieces that challenged both the suffocating traditions of society and the ideals of ‘new Japan’ in the ’50s. Marking 100 years since Ichikawa’s birth, this extensive retrospective features 27 films, including digitally remastered versions of ‘Enjo’ (1958), ‘Her Brother’ (1960) and ‘An Actor’s Revenge’ (1963). Jan 16-Feb 11 Kadokawa Cinema Shinjuku, 4-5F Shinjuku Bunka Bldg, 3-13-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl. com/TOTkon. ¥1,600, college and high school students ¥1,300, seniors ¥1,100. THINGS TO DO EARTH GARDEN WINTER You know people are serious about all that ‘love the earth’ stuff when they’re still willing to gather in Yoyogi Park around mid-January. The winter edition of the quarterly Earth

Garden features the usual array of eco-themed stalls, food stands and workshops, with music and art performances also taking place. Jan 23-24 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTearthgardenwinter. Free. Jan 27 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTtheinternet. ¥5,800.

February

MUSIC BEACH HOUSE After three years of radio silence, the Baltimore duo of singer Victoria Legrand and guitarist Alex Scally treated their fans to a double whammy in 2015: first the album ‘Depression Cherry’ and then ‘Thank Your Lucky Stars’. Further refining the simplistic but multifaceted dream pop – with shades of darker fascinations – that dominated their earlier works, Beach House are one of the hottest properties on the indie circuit right now. Jan 25 Tsutaya O-East, 2-14-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTbeachhouse. ¥6,000. MUSIC THE INTERNET Members of the Odd Future collective, Syd The Kid and Matt Martians play blissful, beautifully wispy neo-soul as The Internet. Now expanded to include six musicians, they came out with the superb ‘Ego Death’ in 2015, which has proved a global phenom. Catch the crew at Liquidroom in January.

THINGS TO DO SETSUBUN BEAN-THROWING AT ZOJOJI An annual occurrence at Zojoji, this bean-throwing festival marks the coming of spring and sees a colourful bunch of celebrities born in the ongoing year of the Chinese zodiac fling soy beans over the assembled masses from 12.20pm onwards. Head over to ensure good health and fortune for the year to come, and take the opportunity to pick up a new omamori charm at the temple stalls. Feb 3 4-7-35 Shiba-Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTbeanthrowing. Free.

¥6,500 on weekdays, from ¥7,500 on weekends and hols.

Shibuya. ¥4,000. newdeer.net/georama

MUSIC GEORAMA 2016 This international anime festival screens films by top animation creators from around the world, and collaborates with some of Japan’s most talented artists. Look out for the special feature ‘Channeling with Mr Bickford’ which features curator Naohiro Ukawa and collaborations between clay animator Bruce Bickford and famous musicians from Japan. Feb 4 WWW, 13-17 Udagawacho, Shibuya. ¥3,000. Feb 9 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi,

FILM TOKYO NORTHERN LIGHTS FESTIVAL Denmark’s Dogme movement, Ingmar Bergman’s classics, artsy horror… Nordic cinema isn’t a narrow category by any means, but this festival at Shibuya’s Eurospace ambitiously attempts to pull things together, introducing viewers to the very best films from the cold north with an eclectic programme including both new releases and notable films from past years. Feb 6-12 Eurospace, 1-5 Maruyamacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTnorthernlights. ¥1,500, threeticket set ¥3,900.

THINGS TO DO CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: TOTEM JAPAN TOUR Cirque du Soleil’s Totem show premiered in 2010 and has since captivated three million audience members around the world. In February 2016, the show comes to Japan, promising a breathtaking and emotional performance. With Totem, the world’s leading circus group brings to life a spectacular tale following the journey of humankind, from its very beginning to the present and on into the future. Feb 3-May 22 R-Area, 1 Aomi, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTcirque. Adults from For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary

THINGS TO DO IKEBUKURO CD & RECORD FAIR Boasting hundreds of stalls, it’s hard to say what this annual mega carnival specialises in, so let’s just say it’s undoubtedly the largest gathering of CD and vinyl lovers in the country. If you can’t find what you’re after here, you’ll probably have to go home and record it yourself. For smooth entry to the venue, pick up a queueing ticket at the Darumaya record shop on January 28 – or prepare to wait for your turn on the day together with masses of fellow music lovers. Jan 29-31 Toshima Kumin Center, 1-20-10 Higashi Ikebukuro, Toshima. tinyurl.com/TOTrecord-fair. Free.

FILM EMIR KUSTURICA PROGRAMME Ebisu’s Garden Cinema has been instrumental in bringing a diverse range of indie film events and screenings back to the neighbourhood. One of the theatre’s most eagerly anticipated programmes for 2016 is this sixfilm special highlighting the work of Serbian star auteur Emir Kusturica. Jan 23-Feb 12 Yebisu Garden Cinema, 4-20-2 Ebisu, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTemirkusturica. General ¥1,800, university and high school students ¥1,500, junior high school students and younger ¥1,000.

Tokyo Diary

THINGS TO DO CHINESE SPRING FESTIVAL 2016 While it’s always fun to visit, Yokohama’s Chinatown district is never livelier than during its New Year festival. The two weeks of festivities are stacked with events, including a countdown party on the night of February 7, traditional lion dance performances and music (Feb 11, 13, 14 & 21) at Yamashitacho Park, a parade of traditional costumes on the afternoon of February 20, and a spectacular Lantern Festival on February 22 from 5.30pm. Feb 8-22 Yokohama Chinatown, Yamashitacho, Naka. tinyurl.com/ TOTspringfestival. Free. MUSIC ROTH BART BARON TOUR 20152016 ATOM Singer-guitarist Masaya Mifune and drummer-percussionist Tetsuya Nakahara are Roth Bart Baron, who play a challenging mixture of indie folk, ’80s pop and acoustic experimentation. The result of their recent excursion to Montreal and its

flourishing indie scene, new album ‘Atom’ is the focus of their ongoing domestic tour, which heads to Liquidroom in February. Feb 20 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTrothbart. ¥3,500.

March THINGS TO DO NUNO-HAKU IN TOKYO VOL. 6 All things textile-related can be seen and experienced at Chofu’s Keiokaku velodrome in March, when this massive celebration of fabrics, clothing, bags, embroidery art and much more takes over the oval-shaped stadium. Held in Machida last year, the event attracted thousands of attendees over three days, and will now be powering up even further: dozens of textile designers, artists and craftspeople have already signed up as exhibitors. Mar 5-6 Tokyo Oval Keiokaku, 4-31-1 Tamagawa, Chofu. tinyurl.com/TOTnunohaku. ¥500.

MUSIC DOTSUITARUNEN With their constantly evolving sound, this eight-member punk band has started gathering fans overseas. They’ve just completed their first US tour and are releasing their 8th album, ‘Music’, which has a surprising R&B twist to it. Mar 10 Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. ¥2,500. THINGS TO DO MOUNT TAKAO FIRE WALKING FESTIVAL Held every year in March, the Hiwatari-sai or Fire Walking Festival at Mount Takao sees barefooted monks walk through a smouldering fire chanting prayers, making for a spectacular (and muchphotographed) sight. Visitors can also try strolling in these masters’ footsteps – but only after most of the fire has been put out. Mar 13 2177 Takaomachi, Hachioji. tinyurl.com/TOThiwatarisai. Free. THINGS TO DO RIKUGIEN CHERRY BLOSSOM LIGHTUP Rikugien’s annual spring celebration will be back again for 2016, which

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

means that both the park’s huge cherry trees and the rest of the beautiful Japanese garden will be lit up in the evening, creating a magical atmosphere for sakura flower viewing. The park stays open until 9pm (last entry 8.30pm) for the duration of the event, making afterwork hanami parties possible even on weekdays. Mar 17-Apr 3 Rikugien, 6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo. tinyurl. com/TOTrikugienlight. ¥300, seniors ¥150.

For more events, go to timeout.com/ tokyo

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 9 How to drink like a local Have a merry old time in Tokyo, where it’s okay to pass out in the street. Words Grace Buchele Mineta. Illustration Bunny Bissoux

hen in Japan, do as the Japanese do. In this case, we’re referring particularly to drinking – and the culture of ‘nomikai’ (work drinking party). Nomikai is an integral part of the Japanese workplace, meant to ease stress and forge friendships. Technically you are not forced to attend, but skipping is a taboo. These are my tips for knocking back a few at a Japanese izakaya. DON’T: POUR YOUR OWN DRINK It is considered rude to pour your own drink. That job falls on whoever is sitting near you. Rather than topping up your own glass, pick up the bottle or jug and offer some to your neighbour (even if their glass isn’t empty). Once you pour for them, they will reciprocate. You get beer, social protocol is followed, and everyone is happy! Typically the drink-pouring duties follow a hierarchy, with the more junior members tasked with keeping everyone’s drinks full. DO: KANPAI BEFORE TAKING A SIP The number-one rule for drinking in Japan is that you should never drink alone. To kick off any social gathering, everyone gets a glass of beer, shouts a collective kanpai (cheers!), clinks glasses, and drinks. The first kanpai of the night is the biggest and while you definitely don’t have to say it every time you take a sip, you should still make eye contact and raise your glass before you drink. DO: GET DRUNK! During my first nomikai, I did the socially-acceptable-in-corporateAmerica thing of drinking half a glass of wine and chatting about safe, neutral topics. Until, of course, two cases of beer later when one of my bosses started singing an AKB48 song and the co-worker I was chatting to

confessed a deep, emotional secret about her love life. Pretty soon after that I got on board with the whole let’s-drink-and-get-crazy rule of nomikai. DON’T: BE AFRAID TO DRINK NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS Remember, if you’re a lightweight or are uncomfortable with getting blackout drunk, you can switch to non-alcoholic drinks as the night progresses. The important part is that you’re still drinking. Oolong tea is a very popular, respectable alternative for anyone, regardless of your nationality or gender. DO: BREAK SOCIAL BARRIERS Alcohol is a social lubricant in many countries, with Japan near the top of the list. Drinking alcohol brings people together, helps to de-stress them after long workdays, and allows for exchanges that are

impossible when sober. It’s also one of the few ways to form ‘strong, masculine’ bonds between men in corporate Japan. DO: KEEP IT REAL The most real conversations I have had in Japan occurred at an izakaya with friends, co-workers and family members. Before my husband and I announced to his very traditional salaryman father that we were engaged, we plied him with half a bottle of expensive sake. To date, the only times I have ever heard my father-in-law talk about personal stuff have been when we’re sitting around the dinner table drinking beer or sake. DON’T: BE AFRAID TO PASS OUT ON THE STREET If I had ¥100 for every time I saw a salaryman passed out in the street, against the side of a building, on a

train bench, or in the gutter, I could happily retire on a small island in Okinawa. Being intoxicated in public isn’t frowned upon as much in Japan as it is in other countries, especially when it comes to salarymen returning home from a nomikai. DON’T: SLIP UP THE NEXT DAY AT WORK You might stay out until 3am drinking and making nice with your co-workers, but come 8am the next morning, you slide back into your socially dictated roles in the company. No matter how epic the nomikai was or how many heartto-heart talks you had, you don’t mention them. It’s business as usual. For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 15

Promotional feature

I,TOKYO Benjamin Boas Translator, manga author, Nakano Ward ambassador, 32

You moved to Japan when you were 23. Why did you stay? Every day is an adventure and there’s always something new to find. And it’s all super safe – amazing! When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? Honestly? When I had filed so many of my own residency applications that I knew the ward and immigration offices like the back of my hand. You’ve recently been appointed as an ambassador for Nakano Ward. Is it safe to say Nakano is your favourite place in Tokyo? Most definitely! It’s packed full of some of the most interesting businesses, places and people in Tokyo. Best cake shop in the country (Kyle’s Good Finds), awesome little cafés and niche businesses, and of course Nakano Broadway. Plus it’s only one stop away from Shinjuku. What do your duties as ambassador involve? Spreading the word about Japan’s coolest ward, as well as helping the locals welcome international visitors. We actually have a good head start on this; half the residents speak a foreign language and four percent of the ward is non-Japanese. So does this mean you have to wear this nifty ambassador outfit at all times? Actually, I’m expressly forbidden from doing this. I need to formally request permission each time I wear my sash! But the ‘samue’ (kimono-style top and trousers set) is actually what I wear normally. It’s super comfy. Tell us about the background of this photo? That bad boy is just inside the entrance of Henya, Mandarake’s shop on the 4th floor of Nakano Broadway. You can spot it by the big red torii gates in front. The gates symbolise the transition to another world, and that’s exactly what the inside of the store feels like. It’s full of toys that date back decades, from giant robots to Japanese action figures of the Beatles. Even if you’re not into collectibles I recommend checking it out, it’s a total trip. You recently published a manga book. How’s that going? Very well! The book, which was co-authored and illustrated by Chika Aoyagi, is called ‘Nihon no Koto ha Manga to Geemu de Manabimashita’ (‘Japan: I Learned It All From Manga and Video Games). I’ve loved manga ever since I was a kid so I was delighted to publish my own Japanese comic. It’s actually kind of meta since it tells the story of how I fell in love with Japanese comics and video games. It’s published by Shogakukan, stocked at Kinokuniya bookstore, and we’ve sold over 2,500 copies so far. The sequel will come out next year. How did you learn to speak and write Japanese so fluently? Like the book says, comics and video games. When I was first into the stuff, most of it hadn’t yet been translated into English so I had to either study Japanese or give up on reading the newest comics. Obviously actual Japanese classes were necessary for this, but I wouldn’t have studied so hard if I hadn’t had that motivation. Top three manga comics or anime films for English speakers? ‘Lone Wolf and Cub’ is my favourite manga ever and Dana Lewis’s English translation of it is excellent. If samurai revenge isn’t your thing, ‘Yotsuba&!’ is a delightful little manga series that appeals to just about anyone. And of course anything by Studio Ghibli, either subbed or dubbed. I actually enjoyed the English dub of ‘The Wind Rises’ better than the original Japanese. Which of NHK World’s TV programmes do you enjoy? ‘Journeys in Japan’. I love taking my bicycle all over the country so it’s great for deciding where to take my next trip. Plus, I can’t get enough of the host Kit Nagamura; she’s the best!

INTERVIEW: ANNEMARIE LUCK, IMAGE: KISA TOYOSHIMA

LOCAL INSIGHT

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country,

I, GLOBAL Domo NHK mascot

HK World Radio Japan provides a total of 58 hours and 40 minutes a day of broadcasts in 18 languages. Programs on current, cultural and other events are broadcast direct from Japan or via overseas stations and broadcast satellites. Here, we introduce you to six NHK radio hosts who help to bring you reports in different languages and ask them a few questions about life in Tokyo.

QUESTIONS

1. What do you like most about Tokyo? 2. Which Radio Japan program do you recommend? 3. Any city survival tips for visitors to Tokyo?

Mamoona Shamil Horani

Language: Urdu The cleanliness and the architecture. I also love the kindness and hospitality; how Japanese people use both hands when passing something to you. It’s so welcoming and caring. ‘Welcome to Amazing Japan’. The format is a travelogue and it’s loaded with landmarks, culture, events and food. Prepare to be surprised and amazed. If you are a Muslim then be careful about food, however many Japanese and other restaurants are now offering halal food.

Wenyu R

Language: Chinese Chidorigafuchi park during cherry blossom season. It’s very beautiful and shows off the traditional scenery of Japan. ‘Easy Japanese’ – it serves as a free Japanese lesson for beginners. I have been in charge of this program for 13 years. You can really trust Tokyo’s public transportation system. It’s punctual and widely available around the city, so you can go wherever you want and always arrive on time.

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Nazafarin Mirzakhalili Language: Persian I like busy capitals but not crowded, polluted ones. I like a metropolis with timely transportation. I like an orderly city that has the best service. Yes, I’m

Paul Alphonce

Language: Swahili The safety and the infrastructure – this is the first thing to catch the attention of someone from a developing country. I love technology because of the way it helps to improve people’s lives, so I’d recommend ‘Radio Japan Focus’, which features the latest tech and news from Japan. Tokyo is challenging if you don’t speak Japanese, so learn a few key phrases. Also, if you don’t have a device with GPS, keep a pocket map – Tokyo is big!

talking about Tokyo! We receive emails from listeners who enjoy the Japanese language learning series on our website. It includes 48 lessons that help you to communicate effectively. Bring enough cash as it’s not easy to find an ATM that’s open 24 hours. This can spoil your fun when you want to go out spontaneously!

Mihhail Salenkov

IMAGES: KISA TOYOSHIMA AND KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Santibhap Ussavasodhi

Language: Thai The transportation network is so reliable and timely that driving is not necessary. ‘The Magic of Japanese Masterpieces’. Each episode introduces an important art piece and it’s an interesting way to understand Japan and the people. Make sure you have a smartphone with internet connection. Search engine, translation and map apps can solve many problems.

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on your TV, computer or mobile device, visit nhk.jp/nhkworld

Language: Russian I came to Tokyo with a pregnant wife and a two-year-old kid, and we soon discovered how family-friendly it is. I also like that the seaside is an hour away. ‘Welcome to Amazing Japan’: listeners learn about interesting places, some of which you can’t find in guidebooks. My next trip, for example, will be to Amakusa islands where you can see dinosaur fossils. Purchase a transport card. It’s extra handy because you can use it to pay for items from convenience stores. Also, never leave your umbrella unattended!

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• Download the NHK World Radio Japan app for free. • Visit nhk.jp/nhkworld for weekly program updates.

18 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

NEARLY ETERNAL

by Steve Nakamura and Norbert Schoerner

okyo-based art director and designer Steve Nakamura has teamed up with German photographer and filmmaker Norbert Schoerner to create a sensual food photobook. Just in time for its December 2015 release, we ask the pair to tell us more about the project ‘Nearly Eternal’ is a photography book about food. Tell us about the concept. Steve: It’s about playing a fine line between reality and fiction, using the subject of window display food. Norbert: We have always been inspired by the craftsmanship of this uniquely Japanese culture. The idea to reproduce something natural or ‘real’ in the most detailed manner in order to use it as display is amazing both from a commercial and creative point of view. S: By placing the food in specific settings, it brings it to life, suggesting the food has some sort of relationship between a specific place or time. N: We wanted to find a way to build a project around this and find a way to shoot something ‘fake’ in the most natural way – hence putting the viewer into a position where they question what’s real and what isn’t... You have both largely been involved in fashion and pop culture campaigns in the past. Why did you choose to focus on food? S: It started with our fascination of window display food as a subject of art. Recontextualising an aspect of life that everyone can relate to. Shooting food as still life is a basic form of photography. But making something average look surreal is a completely different approach. There’s an element of humour in the images. Do you feel there is value in making a viewer/reader laugh when contemplating meaning in an image? S: In some of the images, yes. It was important to give character to each piece of food. Food has many facets… it can suggest a location and also be sensitive, luxurious, playful, dark. Each subject should be treated in a different way. How did you choose the foods that you’ve featured? N: We tried to keep the culinary palette as international as possible. What process do you go through when coming up with conceptual images such as these? S: It took over a year to research foods and locations. Starting with the selection of objects and locations, to testing them out. Most of the scenes were scripted with room to improvise later. We wanted the result to look effortless, believable. What kind of reader do you think the book will appeal to? N: Hopefully across the board – people who love photo and art books but also people who would not necessarily engage with something conceptual. What’s your favourite food? N: Beer.

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NEARLY ETERNAL

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BUY THE BOOK ‘Nearly Eternal’ is published by Chance Publishing, an imprint of Claire de Rouen Books, and is available from Colette in Paris, Dashwood Books in New York and Claire de Rouen Books in London. It will be available in Tokyo in 2016. For more information about the creators visit: www.stevenakamura.com www.dayfornight.tv/schoerner

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[WAGYU GUIDE]

WAGYU is

not just meat. It’s all the things that Japan is famous for.

Tradition and quality and conviction How much do you really know about the world’s best beef? To find out exactly why wagyu is so revered, Annemarie Luck met up for a chat with Argentinian chef Federico Heinzmann, who runs the show at Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Grill, and ‘wagyu master’ Hisato Hamada, founder of Viva Japan. Over the page, we look at more of the secrets behind wagyu’s superiority and round up a list of top restaurants serving the best cuts

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[WAGYU GUIDE]

Okay, so the cows are living the life. But is this what makes wagyu’s flavour so superior? F: This is part of it, of course. But wagyu beef is known for being very fatty, and this is the main point of difference. Each farmer works very hard to find the perfect recipe for their feed mix so that the cows reach optimum size and the meat develops the perfect fat marbling. H: The taste is in the fat. It’s very unique. You can even use it to cook other dishes such as fried rice; it changes the quality of the taste. Takes it to the next level. F: Yes, it’s almost like butter; it has a very low melting point – 28 °C. How do Western palates respond to this very fatty meat? F: This can be a challenge because some foreigners do find certain types of wagyu too fatty. If it’s your first time trying wagyu, I’d suggest not starting with Kobe beef, which is the fattiest. I’d rather serve you a different grade. But doesn’t a different grade mean a lower quality meat? H: There is a misunderstanding that A5 grade means it tastes good. It’s really just the density of the marble mix that changes. F: You have so many different kinds of wagyu cows; they are all over Japan, from Okinawa to Hokkaido. So many different styles of wagyu. Totally different taste, sweetness, everything changes because the hand of the farmer is different. A4 can be the same quality as A5, but the use is different. All the products are perfectly finished. You just need to choose what you want to use it for. It’s a very precise system… F: Nowhere else in the world is there a system so precise to design a cow. You have decent cattle all over the world, but the level of precision here is amazing. The wagyu farmers only have 10 to 15 cows each. And they keep all the records. So as a chef, I can trace every cow’s genetic history. I can see who was its mother, its mother’s mother etc. H: We have the most advanced traceability system in the world. Every cow has a unique ID and a nickname. If you’re concerned that the wagyu beef you’re eating in another

'Wagyu master' Hisato Hamada

Let’s begin with the burning question: are wagyu cows really getting massages, drinking beer and listening to classical music? Federico: While it’s true that the cows are treated like members of the family, and I have in fact met one farmer who plays music for his wagyu, this is largely a misconception. The real key to their quality lies in the genetics, the high quality of food they are fed, and the fact that each farmer develops their own complex process to create the perfect size and shape of cow. Hisato: Also, they have longer lifespans than ordinary cattle, which significantly improves flavour. Wagyu cows live for about 30 months, sometimes 35. American cows, by comparison, are slaughtered at 15-22 months.

Chef Federico Heinzmann

IMA

M E:

country is not authentic, you can ask the restaurant to show you the ID number of the cow. There have been a few news reports about how other countries are selling beef with the name wagyu, when it is not real wagyu. F: You might hear of American wagyu, Australian wagyu, German wagyu… These are hybrid. They have taken the genes and mixed them with local cows. H: ‘Wa’ means ‘Japanese’ and ‘gyu’ means ‘cow’. So wagyu literally means Japanese cow. If it’s called wagyu outside of Japan, it’s not the real thing. Over the last few years, other countries have begun lifting their import bans on wagyu. Hopefully the rest of the world is getting the real deal now? H: This is a brand-new phase because now we can export. This is a game changer. F: Until recently, you couldn’t get real wagyu outside of Japan. Now things are moving faster. And Japan has what the world wants – the personalised, organic way of producing. Everything in Japan is seasonal and natural. From that point of view, Japan is advanced because they’ve stuck to their traditions. H: Wagyu is a very Japanese product. It has a long history. Now is great timing for us to bump up the industry. At my company, Viva Japan, our aim is to help spread wagyu to the rest of the world, and to help local farmers increase profits. In this way, hopefully we’ll attract new, young farmers too, because we need to keep the tradition going. I travel around Japan to source passionate, upcoming farmers. Then I have a network of about 50 chefs from around the world. They come to Japan and I introduce them to the farmers. Right now, Japanese cuisine is pretty trendy, so it’s not hard to find chefs who want to come here and explore the food. It’s also more fun than working with Japanese chefs. [Laughs] Federico, any unusual wagyu pairing that you’d recommend? Wagyu with truffles! Believe me, it’s a match. HAMADA RECOMMENDS… The Innocent Carvery Indulge in some of the finest wagyu beef in Tokyo at this new restaurant where the custom cuts are procured by Hamada himself along with chef Kenichiro Okada, and the dishes are creative (think wagyu paired with chilled noodles). 101 Karuha Nishi-Azabu, 1-4-28 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 5411 2911. www.innocent-carvery.jp. Daily 5pm–12pm.

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[WAGYU GUIDE]

4 million 250 200 5.5kg CTS & The number of cows in Japan. (By comparison, chef Federico Heinzmann told us that in his home country of Argentina there are 47 million.)

The number of wagyu brands in the Japanese market.

More interesting titbits from Argentinian chef Federico Heinzmann and 'wagyu master' Hisato Hamada

THE NUMBER OF WAGYU BREEDS (AND NO, KOBE IS A REGION, NOT A BREED OF WAGYU): Kuroge Washu (Japanese Black) Akage Washu (Japanese Red) Mukaku Washu (Japanese Polled) Nihon Tankaku Washu (Japanese Shorthorn)

1977 50g The serving size of wagyu that will be enough to satisfy you. Because of all that quality meat that's packed with umami – and fat!!

SO WHY ALL THE FUSS ABOUT ‘KOBE BEEF’, THEN?

KOBE!

Kobe beef comes from the Japanese Black breed of wagyu called Tajimagyu. These cows are bred in Hyogo Prefecture, of which Kobe is the capital city. In order to be certified as authentic Kobe beef, the cows must meet strict criteria including being slaughtered in Hyogo Prefecture and having a grade of 4 or 5, and a beef marbling standard (BMS) of 6 or 7. To put it more simply, all Kobe beef is wagyu but not all wagyu is Kobe beef – in fact, only 0.06% of all beef on the market in Japan is Kobe..

ABOUT THAT FAT… HOW CAN IT BE HEALTHY?

CAN YOU EAT A WAGYU COW’S CHEEK?

Even though wagyu is known for being super fatty, it’s healthier than other kinds of beef because it’s primarily unsaturated fat. It’s also packed with omega 3 and 6, and the cows are never given antibiotics.

Yes, you can! Every part of a wagyu cow is edible. ‘It’s tender, no matter what part. The cheek of a cow is usually tough and used for long stews. But with wagyu, you can grill the cheek and it’s fantastic,’ says chef Heinzmann.

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

ILLUSTRATIONS: iSTOCK

The number of hectares you need to raise one cow.

The year Japanese farmers officially decided they had ‘designed’ the perfect cow. Before this, there had been a lot of experimenting to create perfect shape and size for optimum flavour.

ES GUR

WAGYU

The amount of beef each person in Japan eats every year. (In Argentina each person consumes 65kg per year!)

The number of wagyu farmers in Kobe. ‘Many of them are in their seventies and ready to retire, so there is a need to revive the industry,’ says ‘wagyu master’ Hisato Hamada.

[WAGYU GUIDE]

WHERE TO EAT WAGYU

REVIEWS BY YASUHISA SHIMBO, YUKAKO IZUMI AND SARAH CRAGO IMAGES BY YASUHISA SHIMBO, KISA TOYOSHIMA AND KEISUKE TANIGAWA (IMAHAN AND NEW YORK GRILL SUPPLIED)

Shabu Shabu

NINGYOCHO IMAHAN S

ukiyaki is often eaten at home in Japan, but tasting this simmered cuisine at a specialty restaurant is another experience altogether. Established 120 years ago, Ningyocho Imahan is a butchery and restaurant in one, so you know you’ll be getting only the finest quality meat here. As you take up your seat in the elegant space, your waitron will pour a small amount of a sweet soy-based soup into the heated iron pot on your table, before simmering the beautifully marbled beef in the sauce. When the beef is medium rare, it’s taken out of the pot and dipped into a beaten egg. Trust us, you won’t have any qualms about eating raw egg after you’ve tasted it like this. Every step is performed by your waitron, so while you get to watch your food being prepared, you don’t have to worry about over- or undercooking the beef. Lunch is from ¥4,680 per person, and dinner is from ¥5,940 per person (service charge applicable for dinner and for lunch reservations). 2-9-12 Nihonbashi-Ningyocho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). 03 3666 7006. www.imahan.com. Daily 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm.

ZAKURO E

very visitor to Japan should try shabu shabu, and what better way to experience this DIY dinner than with the finest quality wagyu beef. The attention to detail and fine service at Zakuro make it the perfect spot to gather some friends and enjoy a night of high quality dining in a traditional setting. With exquisite wooden-clad private dining rooms available, you can really settle in for the night. But what really sets Zakuro apart from other shabu shabu restaurants is the ornate copper nabe (cooking pots), which have been especially handcrafted for the restaurant and in use for over 60 years. Charcoal is used to heat the dashi (stock), which provides a higher heat than gas. Shabu shabu is typically served with two dipping sauces, sesame and ponzu. These are both made inhouse at Zakuro and are certainly a speciality. Dipped in the spicy sesame sauce, the thin slices of wagyu have a real richness. The ponzu is bursting with freshness and smacks your palate with citrus zest. Both are perfect accompaniments to the delicate paper-thin wagyu, which cooks in a matter of seconds in the nabe and melts in your mouth just as quickly. B1 Shin-Nihonbashi Bldg, 3-8-2 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 3271 3791. MonFri 11.30am-3pm (LO 2.30pm), 5pm-10pm (LO 9pm), Sat & Sun 11.30am-10pm (LO 9pm). Wagyu Shabu Shabu Teishoku from ¥7,484 (additional charge for a private room).

Sukiyaki

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[WAGYU GUIDE]

THE CUTS

Yakiniku

NIKUGATOU

he term ‘Japanese beef’ usually summons up images of meat with plenty of fat marbling, but as recent health trends sway towards lean meat, even wagyu enthusiasts are looking for ways to cut back on the fat. Nikugatou is one yakiniku restaurant that actually specialises in lean wagyu cuts. Their ‘Japanese beef A5 lean meat ‘rock’’ (i.e. a big chunky cut) is sliced in an open kitchen before being grilled for you with a lip-smacking garlic butter

soy sauce. The beef is eaten rare as the fat gradually melts and the sauce soaks through. Other dishes include the ‘Original 1.5-second (sukiyakistyle) grilled single-slice aitchbone’, which involves a thin slice of aitchbone being dipped in tare (sweet soy) sauce and seared on both sides, then dunked into Chamago egg. ‘Nikugatou kalbo’ is a dish that gets its name from the especially tender meat taken from the lower portion of the aitchbone

and that tastes a little like the Korean barbecue beef kalbi (or, as it’s spelled here, ‘kalbo’). Lastly, definitely try the ‘Truffle-salted skirt steak’, which is beautifully seasoned with fragrant truffle salt. And don’t worry if you have no idea which dipping sauces to use – the chef will suggest the best ways to eat each dish, usually pairing the cut with a suitable condiment. 1-6-7 Nihonbashi-Horidomecho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). 03 3668 2910. www.facebook.com/

nikugatou. Tue-Sat 5pm-12pm (LO 11pm), Sun & hols 5pm-11pm (LO 10pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon a hol). Approximately ¥5,000 per person.

THE CUTS

If you need a little help figuring out what’s what…

Japanese beef A5 lean meat ‘rock’

This top quality wagyu is sourced from different areas of Japan, depending on where conditions are favourable at the time.

Aitchbone

Lightly seared before being dunked into Chamago eggs, which are eggs (‘tamago’) laid by chickens fed on tea (‘cha’) and known for their sweet flavour.

Kalbo

This kalbi-style beef is made from aitchbone (the front portion of the rump), so it’s a small cut from each cow.

26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Skirt steak

The skirt steak comes from the diaphragm muscle, just below the ribs. It’s long, flat and full of flavour.

Extra fine tongue

If you’ve never tried tongue before, it’s well worth getting over any reservations you may have. The meat is taken from the back of the tongue and is very tender.

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COSSOTT’E SP T

his yakiniku restaurant is firmly committed to using only the best quality A5 wagyu. In fact, they always purchase the whole cow, always a female, and then use every part of the animal for the restaurant’s yakiniku menu. This ensures the freshest and best wagyu, and also means there is no waste. Each cut of meat on the menu is carefully prepared by the chef for optimal grilling at your table. Sirloin, tongue, rump and chuck roll are all treated individually with variants in thickness of the cut, seasoning and dipping sauce. The sirloin, prepared as yaki-shabu, is a standout and the only item that the staff themselves will cook at your table. The meat is thinly sliced and then lightly kisses the griddle for

a matter of seconds. You then dip the meat into a sauce of raw egg yolk and ponzu which lusciously coats the meat. The flavour is rich, creamy and meltingly good. It will have you reaching for the next slice before the first has dissolved in your mouth. The supreme quality of the wagyu is clearly reflected in the taste of each cut; the meat has a richness and juiciness that’s truly incomparable. And the unique flavour and texture can be savoured in every cut, from the tongue to the rump. 2F Spacia Azabu-Juban, 5-13-11 Roppongi, Minato (Azabu-Juban Station). 03 6441 2646. cossotte-sp.jp. Mon-Sat 6pm-1am (LO 12am), closed Sun. Chef's 5-plate selection ¥3,500-¥4,000.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 27

[WAGYU GUIDE]

USHIGORO BAMBINA EBISU HILLTOP I

f you fancy pairing your wagyu beef with a bottle of fine wine, head to one of Ushigoro Bambina’s six branches around Tokyo. We visited their Ebisu Hilltop location, where bottles are on offer for around ¥2,900 and the sommelier will recommend a good fit for your meal. As for the meat, the restaurant is not that concerned with specific brands; their focus is on sourcing the best A5 grade beef of the day. Each cut of meat is prepared in just the right way to bring out its inherent flavour, but we were particularly blown away by the sweetness of the thinly sliced misuji (marbled

Sirloin Sukiyaki

shoulder), which we ate rare. We’d also recommend the sirloin, prepared in two different ways: thinly cut in sukiyaki style with raw egg, and as a steak with the specially prepared onion sauce. And don’t ignore the side-menu items such as the Tomato Motsu Nikomi Stew, which features motsu (offal) simmered slowly with 20 kinds of vegetables. 2F Time Zone Hilltop Bldg, 1-189 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3760 1129. www. ushigoro-bambina.com/en/ebisuhilltop. Daily 5pm-12pm (LO 11pm). From around ¥10,000.

Misuji (shoulder)

Special Ushigoro Steak

only available at Ebisu Hilltop branch

Horumon yaki

MANTEN YOYOGI

Korikori Aorta

(offal)

Kopuchan (small intestine)

Marucho (small intestine)

Senmai (third stomach)

Giara (forth stomach)

Hatsu (heart)

Sandomino (first stomach) Ridobo (thymus)

28 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Fillet only available at Ebisu Hilltop branch

he only thing fresher than offal (organ meat) is a live cow. It’s not easy to get your head around eating small intestines, we know, but as long as you eat it at a renowned restaurant you’re unlikely to really loathe it. In fact, a restaurant like Manten shows off the charms of offal so well that you might really love it. At Manten Yoyogi, you can enjoy charbroiled wagyu beef offal that’s been procured on the day. Start with the Eight Variety Platter so you can try various parts, little by little. Portions are usually selected by the chef, but they are more than happy to accommodate you if you have a specific request. Each item on the menu is prepared beforehand in shio-dare (salt-based sauce) and their individual traits begin to stand out as you savour them. You might be surprised to find yourself ordering more of the fatty, jelly-like ‘gopchang’ (small intestine), which is served as fresh sashimi. Bon appetit! 1F RES Bldg, 1-18-16 Yoyogi, Shibuya (Yoyogi Station). 03 3377 4129. tinyurl.com/TOTmanten. Daily 4pm-12pm. (LO 11.30pm). Dish pictured left ¥3,456.

[WAGYU GUIDE]

Hitori (one-person)

yakiniku

Yakiniku is usually a group affair, with dinner guests ordering several portions for the table to share. But what about those times you’re craving a bit of grilled meat but everyone else already has dinner plans, or you just feel like a bit of peace and quiet? Here are two spots suitable for solo yakiniku dining…

OONISHI

JIROMARU

ack in the old days, the term ‘standing restaurant’ conjured up images of overworked salarymen cramming in soba noodles as quickly as possible during their strictly regulated breaks. But recently, standing bars and restaurants have become something of a trend and you can now enjoy a range of different cuisines on two feet. One of the most popular restaurants in the category is yakiniku restaurant Jiromaru, where singles can comfortably find a spot at the counter and enjoy a meal on their own. Their selection of cuts changes daily but meat

from Shiga and Nagano prefectures features heavily, and is displayed in a glass showcase resembling those found in sushi restaurants. It’s possible to order a single slice of any of the cuts, and you’ll probably find the thicker slices substantial enough that you only need a few of them. There’s sauce available too, but we recommend trying each cut on its own to begin with, so you can really get acquainted with the different flavours. 1-26-3 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 6380 3292. Daily 11.30am-5am. From ¥180 per slice.

his Ebisu yakiniku restaurant is laid out in the counter style that’s common in Osaka. Before you visit, watch the video on their website (which has English subtitles) to find out about the various cuts of meat they serve. Once there, start off by ordering the combination platter since this allows you to try small portions of various cuts – perfect for the lone diner. The platter is composed primarily of lean meat selected from Osaka’s finest cuts and you’ll marvel at how the chefs pour heart and soul into carefully preparing each slice. They’re open until midnight, making this a great place to pop in for a late-night meal. 2F Shinozaki Bldg, 1-7-5 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6455 1429. Mon-Sat & day before pub hols 5pm-2.30am, Sun & pub hols 5pm-12am. Oonishi Mix platter ¥2,980. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 29

[WAGYU GUIDE]

TEPPANYAKI GROW

Teppan yaki

uperior quality wagyu is a priority at Teppanyaki Grow. You will only be served the highest grade A5 beef here and you can guarantee it will be cooked to perfection. Every dish is prepared on the teppanyaki iron hot plate and the best seat in the house is at the bar in front of the action. To appreciate the full wagyu experience you can choose from five set course menus. A typical set menu in Japan will begin with seafood sashimi, however Teppanyaki Grow would like your very first and last impression to be that of wagyu, so they begin the meal with wagyu sushi. You will be introduced to different cuts of the wagyu beef, the sirloin being the most prized, however the rump perhaps the most tasty. Because of the rich fat marbling, wagyu lends itself to a very slow cooking time at a low temperature which results in a buttery roast beef-like steak. Make sure you order this item in advance as it takes two hours to prepare. To ensure the flavour of each wagyu steak is preserved, Teppanyaki Grow has developed an innovative way of serving the accompanying shoyu (soy sauce). Instead of a liquid form, which can result in customers over-dousing their steak, the shoyu has been solidified into a foam-like jelly that slowly melts once taken out of the fridge, ensuring the condiment is added in a much more controlled manner. 3-8-7 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6455 4240. teppanyaki-grow.com. Daily 11.30am-2pm (LO 1.30pm), 5pm-11pm (LO 10pm), irregular holidays, closed most Sun.

NEW YORK GRILL

Steak

GYU-AN

here’s far more to Park Hyatt Tokyo than just being the famous setting from ‘Lost in Translation’. Their New York Grill restaurant, for one. Head chef Federico Heinzmann, who we interviewed on page 22, serves up some of the best wagyu steaks in the city. The open kitchen is always bustling and stocked with Hokkaido, Saga or Sendai beef, as well as ‘Kobe Beef of the Day’. The prices are slightly inflated, but you’ll be treated to some of the highest class of food and service that Tokyo has to offer. 52F Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku and Tochomae stations). 03 5323 3458. tinyurl.com/TOTnygrill. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-10pm.

DID YOU KNOW? Kobe beef is so worldfamous that American basketball star Kobe Bryant was named after it.

ven though it’s located in expensive Ginza, this Kobe beef speciality restaurant is reasonably priced. The interior features wood that’s been recycled from an old house that once belonged to a village headman, and has a sunken hearth to create an authentic local setting. Order the delicious marbled sirloin steak for its juicy flavour, with slithers of fat that melt away as you take a bite. The beef is tasty enough on its own, but you can add a dash of Japanese aioli sauce or soy sauce paste for a twist – they won’t overwhelm the meat’s flavour. 6-13-6 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03-3542-0226. ginzagyuan.jp. 11.30am-2.15pm (LO 1.45pm), 5.30pm-10pm (LO 9.30pm), hols 5pm-9.30pm (LO 9pm), closed Sun & pub hols.

POUND-YA

agyu beef is expensive, but if you want to get more for your money then PoundYa in Roppongi is your best bet. They serve A3-A5 grade Japanese Black beef akami (lean meat) from ¥10 per gram, and shimofuri (marbled meat) from ¥18 per gram. One of their most popular dishes is the Combo Steak that lets you devour both an akami steak and a hamburg (bun-free burger) for maximum wagyu intake. 4-5-8 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6721 1895. tinyurl. com/TOTpound-ya. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm (LO 2.30pm), 5pm-3am (LO 2.30am), Sat 11.30am-3am (LO 2.30am), Sun & hols 11.30am-11pm (LO 10.30pm).

30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[WAGYU GUIDE]

Burgers & hamburgs

C A N YO U R E A L LY TASTE THE DIFFERENCE?

TSUBAMEYA

Two Time Out Tokyo staffers take a blindfolded taste test, biting into one wagyu burger and one ‘normal’ burger. Could they pick out the real deal?

‘It was fairly easy to tell the difference. Biting into the wagyu patty, the first thing I noticed was how remarkably dense and flavourful it is. Forget second-rate, watery ground beef – this is meat with a big M, a punchy slab of flesh that hasn’t yet been processed out of all its inherent carnal attributes. The competing burger, while putting up a decent fight, just can’t hang with this big boy.’

un by the folks behind Tsubame Grill, one of Ginza’s classic meat eateries, Tsubameya offers superb wagyu beef at surprisingly reasonable prices. Their 100% Kumamoto Akaushi (red beef) wagyu hamburg (¥2,200 or ¥1,580 with rice, salad and soup) is blended with plenty of spices and finished with rock salt and pink and black pepper. By coarse grinding the meat, they allow the excess fat to fall away, leaving you with just the purest umami flavour. Try it with wasabi or yuzu kosho (a citrus chilli pepper paste), or simply with a bit of salsa on top. 1-2-1 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza-Itchome Station). 03 3561 3788. tinyurl.com/TOTtsubameya. 11.30am-3pm (Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-4pm), 5.30pm-11.30pm. (Sat, Sun & hols until 11pm, LO 10.15pm)

BLACOWS T

his speciality hamburger restaurant is run by renowned supplier Yazawa Meat and serves up chunky patties that are a mix of marbled and lean beef. Go for gold with the star of the show, the 100% kuroge wagyu (Japanese Black) beef patty which combines a rough ground texture with an impeccably juicy bite. Bread masters Maison Kaiser collaborate with Blacows on the buns, and the most popular item on the menu is the Bacon Cheese Avocado Burger. 2-11-9 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3477 2914. tinyurl.com/TOTblacows. Daily 11am-10pm (LO 9pm).

Taco rice

‘Yup, there was a clear taste difference. Interestingly, the nonwagyu burger had a more familiar taste – because, I guess, I haven’t grown up on wagyu burgers. So while I wouldn’t say it was bad by comparison, it was very obviously mixed with other ingredients. The wagyu patty is pure beef, so the flavour is rich and the texture is almost like a steak.’

RYUKYU CHINESE TAMA Y

ou might be wondering how this restaurant, which serves Okinawan and Chinese food, made it into our wagyu guide. Well, the taco rice they serve just happens to feature Ozaki wagyu beef. Remarkably, even though Ozaki beef is rare, the restaurant has managed to keep the price down to below ¥1,000. Wine aficionados will appreciate the bottle-lined wall – the prices are written on the bottles so it’s easy to choose and order one that fits your budget. The restaurant stays open until 3am, so it’s ideal for ending off a night on the town. 2-3-2 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 34865577. tama2007.jp. Daily 6pm-3am.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 31

[WAGYU GUIDE]

DARE TO TRY WAGYU SUSHI

Cool combos

It doesn’t get fresher than this

Yonezawagyu Oki

One of the very few restaurants in Tokyo specialising in Yamagata’s Yonezawa beef, Oki serves up high-grade, extra-tasty meat. Here, you can order both roast beef sushi (three nigiri for ¥1,200) and flame-grilled ‘otoro’ sushi (three for ¥1,500). Adding the finishing touch is the simple salt and sudachi citrus seasoning. Kurobei Yokocho, B1F Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 3201 2915. www.kongoukaku.com/tokyo.html. Daily 11am-11pm.

OZAKI YUKITAKA

Nikuzushi

Not too far removed from seafood sushi, the flavours here are crisp but mild – as is to be expected from a joint that pioneered the meat sushi trend. Try the Kainomi (extra-tender upper rib) Rossini (¥580 for one, orders of two or more required), which is topped with foie gras, truffles and sweet Madeira demi-glace sauce. Michikusa Yokocho, 1-14 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). 03 3260 6789. www.facebook.com/nikusushikagurazaka. Mon-Sat 5pm-5am, Sun & hols 4pm-12am.

ust because we’re focusing on beef, doesn’t mean we need to completely ignore fish. Ozaki Yukitaka’s menu has only one option, the set course (¥10,000 excl tax), which features various cuts of Ozaki beef along with top quality Pacific bluefin tuna. This sought-after beef comes from cows reared by Muneharu Ozaki on his Miyazaki Prefecture farm, which releases a limited number of cows into the market each year. It is characterised by a rich, intense taste while still being lean.

What to expect

The set meal features 12 to 13 dishes prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients sourced from Tsukiji Fish Market every morning. Be sure to save space for the final course: a bowl of white rice mixed with raw egg that’s far more delicious than it sounds. Here’s what else you can look forward to…

Ozaki beef and Pacific bluefin tuna hand-shaped sushi

The tuna is sourced from different areas depending on the season and is served with a special kind of sushi rice known as ‘aka-shari’, which has a slightly reddish colour and is said to go well with foods with a high-fat content.

Steel-plate grilled Ozaki beef with vegetables

Your Ozaki beef dish is grilled on a steel hot plate (teppanyaki) and served with potato salad and boiled leek in a bonito-flavoured soy sauce. The beef comes without any seasoning, so try adding sea salt and horseradish sauce to enhance the flavour. MAKE A BOOKING B1F M2K Stage III, 3-3-13 Azabu-Juban, Minato (Azabujuban Station). 03 5413 4129. www.ozaki-yukitaka.com. Mon-Sat 5pm-10pm (LO), Sun 3pm-8pm (LO), irregular hols over New Year's and obon. 32 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Ginza Koso

The first restaurant in Chuo Ward licensed to serve raw meat, this kuroge wagyu specialist is a safe choice for anyone worried about the hygienic aspects. Dealing only in wagyu, the chefs source product from places like Kagoshima and Saga every day. Try the raw wagyu nigiri (¥600), topped with salmon roe. Next, go for the wagyu toro nigiri (¥700), a lightly flame-grilled, fatty slab of meat combined with pickled sea bream (shuto). 8F Ginza888 Bldg, 8-8-8 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Shinbashi stations). Reservation required: call 03 6252 0088. ginza8888.net. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-4am (Sat, Sun & hols until 10pm). Meals from around ¥10,000.

Sagoemon

For a budget-friendly wagyu feast, head for Sagoemon, a casual kushiyaki izakaya popular enough to make reservations essential. Skewers here go for ¥80-130, appetisers for ¥400-700, and the always impressive kuroge wagyu flame-grilled sirloin nigiri for ¥300 a pair. 4F Dogenzaka Centre Bldg, 2-29-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6455 0900. Mon-Fri 11.30am- 2.30pm, 5.30pm-11.45pm, Sat, Sun & hols from 5pm.

[WAGYU GUIDE]

GYUNABE

How gyu-nabe got its start in Yokohama

Yokohama has long enjoyed a cosmopolitan atmosphere, both in terms of its residents and its cuisine. The reason lies in the fact that the port was one of the first to open its gates to the world once the Japanese government finally emerged from its period of isolation in the mid-1800s. While still staying true to Japanese traditions, Yokohama has welcomed new cultures and foods, and was the first area to begin experimenting with beef after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Before this, beef had not been consumed in Japan for more than 1,000 years! This was partly because of strong Buddhist customs. But after the Meiji Restoration, people began enjoying beef in the hot-pot style called gyu-nabe (literally, ‘beef hot pot’) and it became one of the most popular meat dishes as well as a symbol of the country’s new era.

So what exactly is gyu-nabe?

It looks a little like sukiyaki , so even Japanese people can sometimes get confused between the two dishes. Gyu-nabe features beef slices cooked with several other ingredients such as negi (Japanese leek) and shiitake mushrooms in a soy sauce-based soup. With sukiyaki, however, you first simmer the beef and only then add the soup and other ingredients.

Where to eat wagyu gyu-nabe in Yokohama

EXPLORE

YOKOHAMA It’s just a half-hour train ride from Tokyo yet Yokohama has a rich atmosphere that’s entirely different from the capital’s. Also, if you’re headed straight there from either Haneda or Narita international airports, you’ll have no problem navigating your way either.

GETTING THERE

From Shibuya Station: the Tokyu Toyoko line runs to Yokohama Station in about 24 minutes. From Haneda Airport Station: the Keikyu line runs to Yokohama Station in about 22 minutes.

CITYSCAPE IMAGE: HIDEO MORI

Today in Yokohama, you’ll still find several restaurants that have been serving gyu-nabe since the Meiji era. We recommend Janomeya, which was established in 1893 and offers gyu-nabe and shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef boiled in a broth), both featuring authentic A5 ranked domestic black-haired wagyu. 5-126 Isezakicho, Naka, Yokohama. 045-251-0832. www.janomeya. com. Tue-Fri 5pm-9.15pm, Sat, Sun & hols 12pm-9pm, closed Mon. Booking is essential: email info@janomeya.com with your name, the date and time, the number of people, and your phone number.

Since opening in 1859, the Port of Yokohama has allowed for a variety of cultures to infiltrate into the city. While this has served to create a unique atmosphere, Japanese tradition has also been lovingly preserved here in places such as Sankeien Garden (pictured above). Whenever you visit you’re bound to find excitement and inspiration.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 33

[WAGYU GUIDE]

WHERE YOUR WAGYU COMES FROM Taste your way around Japan with our map of the different regions and the different kinds of beef you’ll find in each area. The top three Japanese beef brands are Omi, Kobe and Matsusaka, all of which come from Tajima cattle born in Hyogo Prefecture. Beef farmers purchase Tajima calves and then take them back to their respective regions to be raised.

KOBE BEEF

(Hyogo Prefecture)

HOKKAIDO BEEF

OMI BEEF

(Shiga Prefecture) According to historical records, Omi beef first emerged in the 1500s. Even during the late Edo era, when eating meat was prohibited, dried Omi beef was offered to the shogun’s family as a kind of health food.

The quality of Kobe beef is maintained by strict certification standards, ensuring that melt-in-yourmouth effect is ever-present.

OZAKI BEEF

YONEZAWA BEEF

(Yamagata Prefecture)

ON OUR COVER!

HIDA BEEF

(Miyazaki Prefecture)

(Gifu Prefecture)

Flip back to our magazine cover and check out the exquisite marbling on that slab of beef. This is Ozaki beef, raised on natural spring water and fodder that’s specially blended by Muneharu Ozaki. Raised by a single farmer, this beef only appears on the market in very small quantities, making it rare and expensive.

MATSUSAKA BEEF

KYOTO BEEF

(Mie Prefecture)

High quality fat is what makes Matsusaka beef such a luxury. The very best of this brand comes from specialty Japanese black bulls of the Tajima line that have been raised for over 900 days.

ISHIGAKI BEEF IMAGES: PIXTA

(Okinawa Prefecture)

34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

YOUR WAGYU TOUR BEGINS HERE For just ¥10,800 per flight, JAL’s Japan Explorer Pass lets you visit more than 30 cities across Japan.

Begin your journey in Tokyo and use the map opposite to plan which cities you want to visit and which kinds of wagyu you want to explore in more depth. Here’s a little more info about some of the major destinations you should aim for...

OSAKA

Osaka is renowned for being one of the friendliest cities in Japan. As well as being a great place to enjoy cheap eats like okonomiyaki and takoyaki, it is also recommended as a home base for excursions, since it’s easy to get from Osaka to Kyoto or Kobe in Hyogo Prefecture by train or bus.

TOKYO

Japan’s capital city has many faces, from wellknown modern neighbourhoods such as Shibuya and Shinjuku, to the more traditional, atmospheric Shitamachi district. Enjoy the famous Shibuya Crossing or explore tiny bars that no-one knows about, hidden away on backstreets. And when you’re ready to explore beyond Tokyo, there are direct flights from Haneda Airport or Narita Airport to most major cities in Japan.

MIYAZAKI

This prefecture is located in the southeastern part of Kyushu and has an appealing tropical climate. In addition to the excellent beef on offer here, you can also enjoy local free-range chicken and tropical fruits such as mango and papaya. Takachiho Gorge is also a must-visit.

SAPPORO

Hokkaido’s capital city is probably most famous for the Snow Festival held every February in Odori Park. The magical ambience of the ice art as it gets lit up at night makes this an event not to be missed. But thanks to its abundant natural beauty, Sapporo is a pleasant place to visit any time of the year. Be sure not to forget Hokkaido’s gourmet specialties such as sushi, ramen and the grilled mutton dish called Jingisukan.

OKINAWA

It takes about three hours to get to tropical Okinawa (Naha) from Tokyo by aeroplane. The main island is wonderful, but we also recommend travelling to more isolated islands such as Ishigaki, which allows you to enjoy a slightly different flavour of Japan.

If you’re planning to travel around Japan, the Japan Explorer Pass makes your journey easier and cheaper, allowing you to travel anywhere from Hokkaido to Okinawa at a fixed low fare.

TERMS & CONDITIONS Tickets can be purchased up to 72 hours before departure.

1 2 3 4

Country of residence must be outside Japan.

Either a ticket number or booking reference of a Japan-bound international ticket is required at the time of purchase.

For more information, visit www.world.jal.com/world/en/japan_explorer_pass/ar

The passenger’s passport and international ticket must be presented at the time of check-in.

Passport information is required at the time of purchase.

Promotional feature

WHY IS ‘JAPAN BLUE’ SO SPECIAL? Meet the local craftsman who is reviving the lost tradition of indigo dyeing Ome stripes revived by Hiroshi Murata

‘Y

dyeing business into one that uses only natural ou cannot do this kind of thing without indigo. Kosoen uses natural indigo dyeing enjoying it as a hobby,’ laughs Hiroshi techniques learned from a Tokushima craftsman Murata. He’s talking about aizome, and focuses on producing the traditional Ome the Japanese art of natural indigo dyeing, which striped-pattern textile, which was a big he practises at Kosoen studio in style trend amongst Edo’s most Ome, Tokyo. Looking around fashionable. The Ome stripe his magnificent workshop, textile was created with indigohowever, it’s hard to believe dyed cotton. A hint of luxurious this is merely a hobby for silk was mixed into the cotton, him – it exudes Murata’s making the fabric thin and soft, determination not just to and giving it a beautiful hue. enjoy the art but also to revive To create the natural indigo the lost tradition. colour – which is known as ‘Japan Kosoen is the only indigo Blue’ such is its prevalence dyeing studio in the region. in the country’s history and Otherwise, there is no trace fabrics – dyers use leaves of left of the 800 shops and the Japanese knotweed plant, dyeing houses that once first drying and then fermenting existed here. Aiming to revive A sweater that has been platethem. This process creates a the old district and original dyed using a technique at which Kosoen excels substance called ‘sukumo’. The production processes for that sukumo is then placed in a vat time, Murata set up shop 27 with sake, lye, caustic lime and wheat bran and years ago. In doing so, he was also taking the stirred for 365 days under carefully controlled decision to transform his family’s long-running temperatures, eventually transforming into indigo dye. As the saying goes, ‘Indigo dye is a living thing. Like people, it can have bad moods and good moods.’ So craftsmen must dutifully monitor the dye, using their sense of sight, smell and taste. Once the indigo reaches its optimal condition, only then will it be used as dye. Over the past few years, Murata says he has begun receiving more foreign visitors and overseas orders. He has also started receiving invitations to exhibit in Germany and Canada,

Where does the name ‘Japan Blue’ come from?

Edo period ukiyo-e master Hiroshige Utagawa used a unique indigo hue to represent Japan’s diverse landscapes. The colour, which became known as ‘Hiroshige Blue’, fascinated foreign artists including the likes of Van Gogh who used it habitually. In Hiroshige’s time, however, this particular indigo colour was so prevalent in Japan that he had little choice. Indigo dye was originally brought to Japan from India via Europe. It became a permanent part of daily fashion and lifestyle, from kimonos to storefront curtains, and the colour filled everyday scenes around Japan. The term ‘Japan Blue’ was first coined by British scientist Robert William Atkinson who visited Japan in the late 1800s and put a name to it. Since dyestuff in the modern world largely became chemical, Japan Blue has come to symbolise the country’s earlier traditions and spirit. Yet it still inspires immense pride – for example, Japan’s national soccer team’s uniforms are proudly indigo and even young, modern Japanese will look at it and announce it to be ‘samurai blue’. Essentially, indigo tells the story of Japan.

Only five craftsmen in Tokushima know how to make sukumo

and to sell products at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. In fact, demand has skyrocketed – helped, no doubt, by Eric Clapton creating a sensation when he wore one of Kosoen’s indigo items on stage in Japan. But perhaps some of the main reasons natural indigo dyeing has caught the attention of the mainstream again is because it’s environmentally friendly, and because there has been renewed interest in the revival of traditional craftsmanship in Japan. ‘Finally we have felt the response [of conserving the tradition],’ says Murata with a smile that’s as genuine as Japan Blue itself.

Indigo is plentiful around the world, but Japan’s indigo is the most beautiful. – Murata

CASIO GETS A TOUCH OF JAPAN BLUE

LOCAL INSIGHT

The new OCEANUS watch inherits the country’s traditional indigo hue and craftsmanship

apanese artist Utagawa Hiroshige expressed the seas of Japan in vivid shades of indigo. To Japanese people, this deep blue colour conjures up the depths of the ocean, which surrounds the country. Besides expressing the mysteries of nature and the grand history of ‘aizome’ (indigo dyeing) craftsmanship, indigo is also a ‘friendly’ colour that’s easy on the eye. With all of this in mind, Casio’s OCEANUS watch has been designed with accents of Japan Blue, conveying the spirit of Japan and its expert craftsmanship combined with the latest technology.

OCEANUS Blue Reviving the ultramarine colour, Casio has given its own name to this watch’s shade of indigo: OCEANUS Blue. The bezel, digits and subdial ring are coated with spectrumcontrolled sputtered colouring and represented in three different blues, allowing for subtle shifts in tone depending on your viewing angle.

Combining functionality with blue beauty The sapphire crystal bezel boasts a fine, transparent lustre. The right side, which indicates time zones ahead of Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), is accented in a fresh new blue hue that was created through a blue vacuum vapour deposition process. The left side, indicating time zones behind UTC, is black. This clever colour transition conveys the mystery of Earth’s atmosphere and the darkness of outer space.

The world’s first GPS hybrid solar system Featuring Casio’s unique hybrid GPS technology, which combines both satellite and standard time calibration signals, the watch allows you to accurately acquire the current time – no matter where you are in the world, whether you’re in a city centre or out of range.Tricky time-zone settings can be completed at the touch of a button and it automatically adjusts daylight savings time.

Made-in-Japan quality All of OCEANUS’s watch parts are manufactured in Japan and assembled at the Casio plant in Yamagata Prefecture. Featuring detailed and precise craftsmanship and newest technology that only resolute Japanese artisans can produce, this timepiece is the perfect example of Japanese quality.

OCW-G1100-1A ¥230,000 (excl tax)

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit casio-intl.com

Eating & Drinking W

hen talking about the best kinds of Japanese food, you most definitely have to mention nabe (hot pot). Nabe can be gourmet, as in the case of sukiyaki (sweet hot pot with thinly sliced beef) and shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef cooked at the table and eaten with dipping sauce). But if you buy nabe stock at the supermarket, it can also easily be cooked as a casual dinner at home. During winter, nabe is always a staple

on Japanese dinner tables, and these days we are seeing more unusual flavours appearing in stores, such as tomato nabe and curry nabe. There’s also been a significant increase in the number of restaurants offering nabe dishes – here, we’ve rounded up four that are most popular with Tokyoites. When you visit, remember that nabe is not just about eating; it’s also about sharing conversation and bringing people closer together. Huddle up!

ISEGEN

Eating & Drinking

Dish to try: Ankou Nabe (‘Monkfish Hotpot’, from ¥3,500 per person, minimum two people) Alongside pufferfish, monkfish is one of Japan’s most luxurious fish dishes, and Isegen is the only place in Tokyo that specialises in it. This quaint restaurant is housed in a historic building that was built in 1930, and welcomes customers with a realistic example of the ‘sea monster’ you’ll be tasting. Don’t let the look of it put you off; this is a rare opportunity to try the full nabe experience. And when we say full, we’re not joking – you’ll be eating the entire fish, including the fins, skin and liver, which is particularly coveted for its creamy texture and taste that rivals foie gras. 1-11-1 Sudacho Kanda, Chiyoda (Awajicho, Kanda, Akihabara, Ochanomizu stations). 03 3251 1229. www.isegen.com. 11.30am-2pm (LO 1.30pm), 5pm-10pm (LO 9pm); open daily from Dec-Mar; closed Sat, Sun & hols from Apr-Sep; closed Sun from Oct-Nov.

TOMOEGATA

Dish to try: Kunimiyama Chanko (¥3,132 per serving, minimum two people) There is no official definition of the dish known as ‘chanko nabe’, but it refers to the protein-rich stew eaten by sumo wrestlers. It makes sense, then, that you’ll find a cluster of chanko nabe restaurants near the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo stadium. One of these is the hugely popular Tomoegata, which was built by a master of the Tomozuna sumo stable and is actually on the stable premises. Order their signature dish, Kunimiyama Chanko, which is prepared in a lightly salted chicken broth and includes fresh sardines that are brought in daily from Tsukiji Fish Market and minced for the hot pot. In addition, they also serve chanko with beef, chicken, salmon and scallops – all with serving sizes to satisfy the heartiest eaters. 2-17-6 Ryogoku, Sumida (Ryogoku Station). 03 3632 5600. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, LO 10pm (Sat, Sun & hols from 4.30pm), Jun-Aug closed Mon.

38 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

HOT HOT Gather round easy-on-the-eye Words and images

for these nabe dishes. Yasuhisa Shimbo

Dish to try: Fisherman’s Hot Pot with Beni-zuwai (Snow Crab) and King Crab (¥4,800 per 2-3 people) Hell for crabs, perhaps, but heaven for crab lovers. Kani Jigoku feels like a seafood market with its lively atmosphere and crabs lined up at the front of the restaurant waiting for customers to participate in the nightly auction for the crab combination platters. If you’re not up for bidding on crabs, then simply order the Fisherman’s Hot Pot from the menu. It’s an extravagant dish featuring one snow crab and one kilogram’s worth of king crab in a large hot pot. The soup is prepared using just soup stock and salt, and the only other ingredient is Chinese cabbage, allowing the taste of crab to dominate. B1 New Shinbashi Bldg, 2-16-1, Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi Station). 03 3502 6101. Mon-Fri and day before hols 4pm-11.30pm (LO 10.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 3pm-11pm (LO 10pm), closed second Sun of odd months.

WARAKU

Dish to try: Hakata Motsu Nabe (offal, vegetable and miso hot pot) with Miso (¥1,480 per person, minimum two people) Whilst Fukuoka’s regional dish, motsu nabe, is wellknown all over Japan, there are few places in Tokyo serving an authentic-tasting version of this hot pot-and-offal dish. The owner of Waraku sources most of his restaurant’s ingredients from Kyushu in Fukuoka in order to faithfully recreate the original flavour of this dish. Small intestines from Kagoshima cows are used for the offal, adding a rounded texture, and various flavours are available – we recommend the staple option, miso. To help you mop up the creamy, garlicky soup at the end, the dish’s champon noodles – which have a slightly different texture to ramen noodles – are just perfect. And to drink, opt for local Kyushu shochu. Utopia Heights Bldg, 3-8-16 Sakura, Setagaya (Kamimachi Station). 03 3426 8883. 6pm-11pm (LO 10.30pm), closed Thu.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 39

Eating & Drinking

POT TIES

KANI JIGOKU (CRAB HELL)

Eating & Drinking WINE LIST

NATURAL BRANDS ONLY

Ahiru Store

ere’s a surprising fact: Japanese consumers were very early adopters of natural wine, developing a taste for it in the ’90s – even before it became a trend in France. Since then, the natural wine movement has established firm roots in Tokyo, and shops and neighbourhood bars boasting unadulterated wine are now plentiful in the capital. Despite Japan’s unfavourable climatic conditions, domestic winemakers have become passionate about realising the potential of natural wine, with at least five vineyards producing Japan’s first entries into the market, which are being enthusiastically received. There are several liquor stores in Tokyo that are devoted to natural wine and these days you can even see some brands stocked on the shelves of select department stores. Natural wine is also a big hit with Tokyo’s new generation of drinkers who don’t consider themselves aficionados. They don’t possess a taste reference acquired from a wine education or shaped by the familiar products of their region. They have no preference over origin or variety. Their palates are not trained nor are their minds aware of the traditional aroma and taste descriptors. They are drinking wine because they like it. They like the easiness of natural wine and the light mouthfeel, and describe it simply as ‘drinkable’ wine.

And in case you’re wondering what exactly makes a wine ‘natural’, it’s when the wine is produced with minimal intervention – nothing added, nothing removed. No chemicals or artificial fertilisers are used on the vines nor is there any manipulation of flavour or additives used in the winemaking process. Enough talk, here’s where to drink…

AHIRU STORE

Located just off the main drag in the hip neighbourhood of Tomigaya, Ahiru Store is a small counter wine bistro with a big reputation. It’s one of those local cafés that everyone wishes was in their ’hood. Thanks to its popularity, nabbing a seat is a challenge any day of the week. A standing spot next to one of the upturned wine barrels is more likely and not a bad place to rest your wine glass and enjoy the French-inspired small-plate menu. Bottles line the walls with prices written in white marker. You can take your pick guided purely by the wackiness of the label or ask owner and sommelier Saito-san for his recommendation. But be warned, these wines will test your threshold for natural wine. Mostly French, you will find some fruity, fizzy, furry and almost certainly funky wine amongst the bottles on offer. It might be safe to start by the glass (¥900¥1,200) – they have a daily selection of red and white. 1-19-4 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen, Shibuya stations). 03 5454 2146. tinyurl.com/ TOTahiru. Mon-Fri 6pm-12am, Sat 3pm-9pm, closed Sun, hols & first Sat of each month.

40 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BAR À VIN MAISON CINQUANTE CINQ

Tiny even for Tokyo standards, Bar à vin is tucked under the stairwell to its sister restaurant Maison Cinquante Cinq. There’s standing room only, around a central table, and wines are available by the glass along with a short menu of Frenchinspired snacks to sustain you. In such an intimate setting it’s easy to strike up a conversation with the person next to you on which wine they are enjoying. Otherwise, leave it to the sommelier/manager who sources all the brands on offer and will bring out the selection of wines he’s just opened for the night. He says he chose to stock natural wines because he ‘fell in love with the taste’ and the farmers’ philosophy. A glass costs from ¥1,000 and there’s a ¥300 service charge, but the help-yourself homemade sourdough bread and breadsticks on offer make the slightly high price worth it. 3-5-1 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 5454 5631. tinyurl.com/TOTbar-vin. Mon-Sat 6pm-late, closed Sun.

Bar À Vin teMaCisinoqn Cinquan

MAIN IMAGE: PIXTA, AHIRU, LUG AND A DAY: SARAH CRAGO

Eating & Drinking

Like your wine pure? Visit these Tokyo restaurants, bars and liquor stores for the best organic and biodynamic offerings. Words Sarah Crago

labels of Shion Winery, a natural winery located in Yamanashi Prefecture. 3-55-2 Hatagaya, Shibuya (Hatagaya Station). 03 6300 4616. Tue 8pm-4am, Wed-Sat 11am-6pm, 8pm-4am, Sun 11am-6pm, closed Mon.

Lug LUG

Numata-san runs this small family-owned but very focused wine store. In 1997, he converted the shop from an everyday liquor store to centre around natural wine after drinking his first glass and finding an instant connection to the grape and a sense of the terroir. It spurred him to learn more and eventually convert not only his shop but his whole philosophy to match that of the natural wine maker and consumer: easy life, easy wine. You’ll find a large selection in the refrigerated walk-in cellar – the majority is French but there are some choice bottles from Italy, Spain, Greece, Australia, New Zealand, Austria and Japan. Numata-san is always on hand to give recommendations and you can buy a cold pack for ¥162 per bottle to ensure it travels in optimal condition to its final destination. With bottles starting around ¥2,000, you can find your entry point into the world of natural wine. 1-23-7 Umegaoka, Setagaya (Umegaoka Station). 03 3420 5506. tinyurl.com/TOTnakamasu. Fri-Wed 12pm-10pm, closed Thu. Credit cards not accepted.

A DAY

This boutique wine store prides itself on handselecting special bottles for its local clientele.

A Day

P this lease pr e mag azin sent e to get all fo od a nd d rink orde rs!

10 % O

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 41

Eating & Drinking

Yet another hip neighbourhood café and bar, this one is found at the northern end of Hatagaya’s shotengai (shopping street). Giving off a relaxed, local vibe, it serves up great coffee and a simple lunch menu during the day and has a very impressive rum selection by night, boasting over 150 different bottles. Unobtrusively located in the far back corner is a walk-in wine cellar that’s stocked with 100 percent natural wine bottles. Sommelier Honzawa-san, or ‘Pon-chan’ by all who know her, is passionate about natural wine and is constantly rotating the wines available by the glass so that customers can expand their palate. She also hosts a wine tasting on the first Saturday evening of each month during which she showcases two more unusual or higher priced wines (¥1,500-¥1,800 for two glasses). Wine by the glass starts at ¥720 and ¥3,600 by the bottle (if you buy them to take away, you get 20 percent discount). Peruse the predominately French bottles, but look out for the beautiful floral-painted

LIQUORLAND NAKAMASU

With around 80 percent of stock being natural wine, you can find bottles from France, Austria and New Zealand. Bottles start at around ¥2,000 and there are plenty of interesting labels to catch your attention. They recommend trying a Grüner Veltliner from Fred Loimer in Kamptal, Austria (¥3,780); it’s recently become popular in Tokyo and New York. 1-9-23 Tomigaya, Shibuya (YoyogiKoen Station). 03 5790 9360. tinyurl.com/TOTaday. Mon-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-7pm.

Shopping & Style

Tokyo’s best nail art salons Shopping & Style

Intrigued by Japan’s nail art? We’ve rounded up our top five salons offering everything from sensual studs to perfect replicas of your pets. Words Annemarie Luck and Mayumi Koyama

BOUDOIR

DISCO

BEST FOR… Edgy pop art Any image or design you choose from the sample book is hand-drawn by salon owner Nagisa Kaneko, who works quickly and with amazing precision. She switches between hands as she paints, giving each set of gel nails a chance to dry under UV light inbetween coats. We asked her what it’s like always painting her ‘masterpieces’ in such tiny detail and she said she’s been doing it for so long that to paint or draw anything in normal size is what feels odd to her now. We recommend One of her Andy Warhol pop art images – we went for Marilyn Monroe. The vibe You can tell from the decor of the salon (think pink walls, orange lounging chair, vintage Christian crosses on the walls, crystal jewellery on sale in the corner) that Nagisa is not your run-of-the-mill nail artist. She’s going to give you something edgy and offbeat, but always beautiful. Cost A 60-minute gel nail session (for hands or feet) costs ¥9,450. 3F, 1-14-9 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3464 7831. tinyurl.com/TOTdisco-nails. Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun 11am-8pm. 42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BEST FOR… Classic with a sensual twist Originally from Australia, Marilyn Klein opened Boudoir in the late ’90s. Back then it was the only salon that catered to Tokyo’s English community and the first to introduce Brazilian waxes to Japanese women. Still at the forefront of trends, Boudoir offers shellac manicures, which are more durable than your standard polish but not as tough on your nails as gel. Their nail art designs cater to a more Western sensibility, sticking with classic base colours and then adding hints of glitter, studs or foils. We recommend Their half-moon design or treating just one nail on each hand to a cluster of gold studs. The vibe With its thick red velvet curtains, velvet antique couches, and deep red walls, Boudoir’s decor is as sexy as its nail art. The English-speaking staff are professional but relaxed, making you feel pampered but also at home. Cost A basic shellac manicure starts at ¥5,400 with embellishments such as studs costing extra. 101 Mansion Kawai, 2-25-3 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku, MeijiJingumae stations). 03 3478 5898. tinyurl.com/TOTboudoir. Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri 10am-9pm, Tue 10am-3pm, Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-6pm.

JOLI NAILS

DIY NAILS

BEST FOR… Perfect portraits An American-owned nail and beauty salon with English-speaking staff, Joli Nails offers a full range of beauty treatments. In terms of nails, their talents extend from basic French nails to artistic 3D art to copying an image you show them in exquisite detail. Besotted pet owners, take note. We recommend 2015 NailPro World gel art champion Kikuko Asagami’s elaborate nail art. Besides pets and humans (one customer recently had their grandchild’s face painted on a nail to celebrate the little one’s birthday), she can also handpaint your favourite anime characters. The vibe What makes this salon extra special is that they offer a beauty package including child-care service. Tired moms (or dads!) can treat themselves while the kids play in the spacious playroom downstairs. Booking for this service is essential and it costs ¥1,030 per hour. Cost From ¥4,645 for one-colour gel nails, ¥5,500 for design gel nails, and from ¥4,320 per hand-painted nail. 3-10-9 Shirokane, Minato (Shirokane-Takanawa Station). 03 6721 9669. tinyurl.com/TOTjolinails. Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat & Sun 10am-6.30pm, closed Mon.

Want to cut costs? Here’s how to prettify your nails at home

BEST FOR… Mini masterpieces Etars opened in May 2015 on a quiet backstreet of Nakameguro and their aim is to add something unique to Tokyo’s thriving nail art scene. Fans of artists like Van Gogh, Klimt and Monet will fall head over heels with the talents of nailist Ran Inoue who will copy the painting of your choice on your tips. Not sure exactly what you want? They have a bookshelf lined with art books for inspiration. We recommend If not Van Gogh’s ‘Sunflowers’, then opt for their exquisite ‘stone art’ series (pictured left). The vibe This small salon is quirky and rustic, featuring exposed concrete walls, antique wooden floorboards and a retro blue bathtub that’s been cleverly converted into a contained garden. There’s a hanging chair in the corner where you can browse the art books before taking up a seat opposite Ran while she works her speedy magic. And from April 2016, they plan to start selling accessories to complement your new nails. Cost From ¥7,000 to ¥12,000. 201 NM7th, 2-43-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). tinyurl.com/TOTetars. Daily 12pm-8pm. Email etars.nail@gmail.com to book an appointment.

Homei Peel Off Gel Nail Starter Kit Gel nails last long but they’re a pain to remove. Homei’s handy little nail kit comes with a small UV light device and topcoat clear gel (additional colour gel is sold separately) so you can do your nails at home and simply peel the gel off once your nails grow out. Nail kit ¥3,800, colour gel sold separately for ¥1,000, available from Homei at Plaza as well as selected Loft and Tokyu Hands stores.

MAIN IMAGE, DISCO, COCO COLOR'S NAILIST, NAIL ART AT BOUDOIR: KISA TOYOSHIMA, JOLI NAILS: YASUHISA SHIMBO, COCO COLOR'S NAIL ART: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

COCO COLOR’S

BEST FOR…Otaku nails As a popular hangout for otaku nerds, Coco Color’s is well-positioned in Akihabara. But the salon is famed for more than just its image; it’s also amassed fans thanks to its letter-perfect painting, usually of anime characters or idols. They accept requests and also offer 3D art. We recommend If you’re planning to attend one of Tokyo’s popular idol-meeting events, get your nails painted with the face of your favourite star – that way, when you shake their hand, you’ll have more of a chance of attracting their attention. Yes, this is what real otaku nerds do. The vibe Coco Color’s serves as a kind of community space where you can mingle with fellow fanatics. The walls are covered with customers’ anime character drawings, and anime music plays on repeat in the background. Cost ¥1,100 per 10 minutes (it took three hours to paint five of our nails with anime characters). They request that you make a booking and don’t cancel at short notice. 6F AKB426 Bldg, 4-2-6 Sotokanda, Chiyoda (Akihabara, Suehirocho stations). 03 6206 4788. tinyurl.com/TOTcococolors. Daily 10am-9pm.

Sticker nails by Vlli Vlli A genius idea that allows you to simply stick a pretty design onto your nails, file it down, and then soak in hot water to remove after a week or so. You’ll spend more time trying to choose the pattern you want than applying the stickers. From ¥1,200 for a set of 16, available at Room by Vlli Vlli at Laforet Harajuku. vllivlli.net For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 43

Shopping & Style

ETARS

Shopping & Style

IF YOU ONLY HAVE ¥10,000 Tokyo fashion is expensive, but Vivan Morelli has found five stores that let you look hip on a budget

Shopping & Style

okyo doesn’t really do casual. It’s not the kind of city where you can throw on yoga pants and flip-flops to run a few errands – well, you can, but you’ll probably return home feeling utterly drab. On the flipside, you’ll never feel overdressed here, whether you go to an izakaya in a cocktail dress or to the beach in sky-high heels. This makes Tokyo one of the most interesting places in the world not only for people watching, but also for shopping. But while it’s a kingdom for fashionistas, keeping up with the ever-changing trends or trying to look chic on a daily basis can also put a strain on the wallet. Thankfully, in between Ginza and Omotesando’s expensive boutiques, Tokyo is increasingly offering more affordable stores, all of which still maintain quality standards (because Japan). And if digging through racks of eclectic secondhand pieces isn’t your cup of tea, don’t worry, we’re not talking vintage shops or fleamarkets here. Aside from the obvious international chains such as Forever 21 and H&M, Tokyo boasts budget-friendly stores where you can pull together a new look for less than ¥5,000 or ¥10,000.

LESS THAN

Cos

Bershka

¥10,000

Monki

For style that will make people think you blew your entire pay cheque in Omotesando

COS With a Minami-Aoyama location and sleek, minimalist clothing, COS (‘Collection of Style’) opened its first branch in Tokyo in winter 2014 and is an upscale yet affordable store for men and women, with neatly stacked shelves and an airy store design. Their gorgeous collections of knits, featuring materials such as merino, mohair and cashmere, will easily make you spend that ¥10,000 bill, but it’s still a steal to get such quality pieces for that kind of price and design. We also love the blazers and cardigans, which are statement pieces you’ll wear over and over for more than one season. Make sure to check out their accessories section if you have a bit of money to spare to complete your look. 4-21-26 MinamiAoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 5413 7121. www.cosstores.com

Bershka If you’re looking for a hint of sophistication, Bershka is the answer – featuring low-priced items, trends straight from the runway, and pieces that might make people wonder if they’re designer. Think twisted yarn jumpers (¥3,400), imitation leather skirts (¥3,100) and suede ankle boots (¥5,800) from the women’s section, and biker jackets (¥8,900), denim shirts (¥4,200) and beanie hats (¥1,600) from the men’s. The website features pretty monthly lookbooks, which you may want to take a look at before stepping inside the bright and loud store, which can get slightly chaotic at times. This is definitely the spot to hit for something chic, Euro-style and that won’t break the bank. Zerogate Bldg, 16-9 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3464 7721. www.bershka.com

44 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Monki Like many other good things in life, Monki originates from Sweden. The brand has established a storefront in Harajuku, on none other than the busy, crepe-scented Takeshita-dori. Now, we realise this means braving tourist crowds and shrieking schoolgirls, but here’s why it’s worth it. You can pick up an entire look (accessories included) for less than ¥10,000. The prints are loud, the skirts are short and the blouses oversized, and their accessories collection features Japan-only items and lots of cat-eared hats and velvet sandals. The denim section is worth a browse, as they have every style under the sun with pricing around ¥5,000 to ¥6,000. Just like its decor, the clothes are playful and bright, fitting right in to the heart of Harajuku. 1-7-1 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 03 5786 0204. www.monki.com

LESS THAN

¥5,000

Put together a full outfit and still have change to spare

GU Spinns

Spinns Want to look like the stylistas on Cat Street without loosening the purse strings too much? Spinns is Harajuku fashion’s best-kept secret – although, it’s not really a secret any more. Tokyo fashion bloggers and trendsetters have been raving about Spinns for ages now, their items are always predominantly featured in Japanese fashion magazines and a single visit to one of their branches will make your head, well, spin in the best way possible. The store carries a few

brands, including their own and others created by local designers and fashion students. Most of the clothes are handmade or re-made from new and vintage items, so you can always find something unique: plaid skirts and oversized blanket scarves for ¥1,600, clutch bags for ¥2,600 and hats for ¥2,100. Save some of that change for their jazzy belts, jewellery and peculiar home items – take a look at their Instagram account for inspiration. Various locations, www.spinns.jp

Discover more of Japan with UnionPay

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Shopping & Style

Pronounced ‘jee-you’, this Japanese chain store offers fun fashion at fabulously low prices. Its wide range of styles and hues is based on the concept ‘more freedom with fashion’, and you’ll see hints of the kawaii (cute) trend here, which sets the store apart from European and US fast fashion brands that have recently been populating Asia. You won’t shell out more than ¥990 for a sweatshirt, and you can stock up on office-appropriate midi skirts for ¥1,490. They also have a plethora of snazzy accessories to spice up your cheap finds, such as a faux pearl necklace (¥990) and bracelet (¥590), and a pretty impressive collection of shoes ranging from fur-lined boots (¥990) and Mary Janes (¥1,490) to Vans look-alikes (¥1,490). Keep toasty this winter with their outerwear, which will set you back around ¥3,990 and have people asking you where you got your coat. Various locations, www.gu-japan.com

Art & Culture

Five reasons to visit the long-awaited ‘Takashi Murakami: The 500 Arhats’ Other than to see if you can actually account for all 500 arhats, here’s why you need to check out the acclaimed Japanese artist’s new solo exhibition. Words and images Annemarie Luck 1. It’s Murakami’s first solo show in Japan in 14 years That’s a long time considering he’s one of the country’s (and the world’s) most acclaimed contemporary artists. But that’s not to say he hasn’t been busy. Over the last few years, the 53-year-old has been running his company Kaikai Kiki, which nurtures and manages young artists in Japan; he directed his debut film ‘Jellyfish Eyes’; and then there’s the small business of actually creating ‘The 500 Arhats’. The monumental painting was originally produced in 2011 as a token of gratitude to the State of Qatar, which 46 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

offered immediate support after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. It was unveiled in Doha in 2012, and this is the first time it’s been shown in Japan. 2. He actually painted one of the works himself Wait, what? Murakami doesn’t paint his own art? Well, of course he has in the past, but the prolific artist – who was once called ‘the next Andy Warhol’ – is known for gathering together groups of art students and directing them as a sort of commander-in-chief. This is how he’s been working for the last decade,

SHOP THE SHOW Take a piece of the exhibition home with you. Here’s our pick of the best ‘500 Arhats’ items for sale at the Mori Art Museum Shop.

iPhone 6 Case ¥2,592 Featuring Hantaka-san and the white tiger, these rubber cases will make your iPhone the most interesting one on the table.

and it’s how he created ‘The 500 Arhats’, enlisting over 200 Japanese art college students to help him complete the task. But besides the main painting, this exhibition also showcases several new works, one of which boasts Murakami’s own brushstrokes. During the exhibition launch, Murakami joked about how he was challenged by art historian Nobuo Tsuji, who cheekily asked him: ‘Do you actually draw anything yourself any more?’ 3. ‘The 500 Arhats’ is 100m long! This makes it one of the largest scale paintings ever produced. It’s too big to fit into one room at Mori Art Museum, but it makes sense to break it up anyway since it’s divided up into four sections, each one bearing the name of a Chinese guardian of the four celestial directions: Blue Dragon (east), White Tiger (west), Vermilion Bird (south), Black Tortoise (north). Accordingly, each section has a very different atmosphere and colour theme. The thread that joins each section together is, of course, the arhats themselves. Looking like a

cross between hunched old men and newborn aliens, Murakami’s arhats appear at once grotesque, animated and humorous. As usual, the artist has successfully put a new spin on Japanese traditions. 4. You can view the original microscopic ‘Five Hundred Arhats’ If at this point you’re wondering, ‘But what exactly is an arhat?’, here’s a little background: The 500 arhats are thought of as enlightened disciples of Buddha. Faith in the arhats became popular in Japan during the Heian period (8th-12th century) and flourished during the Edo period (17th-19th century). Paintings and sculptures were created in their honour, including Kano Kazunobu’s ‘Five Hundred Arhats’, which consists of 100 hanging scrolls. You can see a portion of these scrolls at Murakami’s exhibition along with Nagasawa Rosetsu’s microscopic ‘Five Hundred Arhats’ (there is actually a microscope provided so you can view the work). Both of these works inspired Murakami’s modern version, which unsurprisingly

carries themes of religion, human mortality and limitations. 5. Mr Dob, the artist’s alter ego, is alive and evolving Any long-time fan of Takashi Murakami will be familiar with Mr Dob, the cat-robot-like character that the artist created in 1993 to act as a kind of self-portrait. As the years have gone by, Mr Dob has evolved to represent Murakami’s own changing internal landscape. He is present in several of the additional works on display, providing insight into the artist’s different life stages. Perhaps even more intriguing, however, is Murakami’s decision to include a few ‘real’ self-portraits, many of them animated but one being a photographic print called ‘Reborn’. It’s always nice when an artist lets the enigma unravel a little… EXHIBITION DETAILS ‘Takashi Murakami: The 500 Arhats’ is on at Mori Art Museum until March 6. For more information, visit tinyurl.com/ TOTmurakami

Official Figurines ¥500 each Bored of your Kubrick toy collection? Liven up your bookcase decor with the ‘500 Arhats’ official figurines set. 10 different characters available, packaged in individual capsules.

Playing Cards ¥1,490 Kings and Queens are so last century. Monks and ghouls make for a far more stimulating game of poker. IN ASSOCIATION WITH KAIKAI KIKI

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 47

Art & Culture

Jigsaw Puzzle ¥3,780 Keep the kids busy for days and give them a little art history lesson at the same time with this 1,000-piece puzzle. Or complete it yourself and frame it for your entrance hall.

‘6TH KIKUCHI BIENNALE’: KAZUHIRO KANDA 'TSUNAGU (CONNECT)'

Abstract prints, scroll paintings and a Superflat collection ‘6th Kikuchi Biennale Exhibition’ Musée Tomo, until Mar 21 Held since 2004, the Kikuchi Biennale is an open pottery competition organised by Tokyo’s Musée Tomo in order to encourage talent in the field of contemporary ceramic art. For its sixth incarnation, the contest’s liberal format remains: there are no restrictions on the shapes or sizes of the pieces, and applications from all over the world are accepted. This exhibit displays the best of this year’s 318 total entries, inviting you to learn more about cuttingedge developments and exciting new names in the field. 4-1-35 Toranomon, Minato. 03 5733 5131. tinyurl.com/TOTkikuchi. 11am-6pm (last entry 30 min before closing), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol). 48 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

‘Jakuchu’s Happiness and Taikan’s Auspiciousness’ Yamatane Museum of Art, Jan 3-Mar 6 The Yamatane Museum of Art presents an exhibition that brings together auspicious themes filled with hope for happiness, just in time for the new year, and delightful motifs that elicit involuntary smiles. Particularly noteworthy are the ink paintings by Ito Jakuchu (17161800), including works being exhibited for the first time. From Edo period to modern and contemporary works, this exhibition traces the history of Japanese art. If you show up in a kimono, you’ll get a discount

on the entrance fee. 3-12-36 Hiroo, Shibuya. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOThappiness. 10am-5pm (last entry 30 min before closing), closed Jan 12 and Mon, except Jan 4 and 11.

‘ONCHI KOSHIRO’: IMPRESSION OF A VIOLINIST (PORTRAIT OF SUWA NEJIKO)', 1946, WOODCUT ON PAPER, THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, TOKYO

Essential exhibitions

YOKOYAMA TAIKAN, DIVINE SPIRIT: MT. FUJI, SHOWA PERIOD, 1952, INK AND LIGHT COLOR ON SILK, YAMATANE MUSEUM OF ART

Art & Culture

‘Onchi Koshiro’ The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, Jan 13-Feb 28 Onchi Koshiro (1891-1955) was a Japanese print-maker known for

‘WARO KISHI: KYOTO_HOME AWAY FROM HOME’, PHOTO: KEIZO KIOKU TAKASHI MURAKAMI AND HIS SUPERFLAT COLLECTION, PHOTO: KENTARO HIRAO

'BOTTICELLI AND HIS TIME' 'MADONNA COL BAMBINO (MADONNA DEL LIBRO)' ©MILANO, MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI ‘THE SPLENDID ART OF TEA UTENSILS FROM CHA-NO-YU TO SEN-CHA’: NATIONAL TREASURE, YOHEN TENMOKU TEA BOWL, JIAN WARE, 12-13th CENTURY

‘YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL FOR ART & ALTERNATIVE VISIONS 2016 GARDEN IN MOVEMENT’: BISSANE AL CHARIF & MOHAMAD OMRAN, SANS CIEL (WITHOUT SKY), 2014

‘Botticelli and His Time’ Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Jan 16-Apr 3 The art of Renaissance master Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) was featured extensively at Shibuya’s Bunkamura last spring, but the Metropolitan Art Museum’s megaretrospective looks poised to top even that highly praised exhibition. Enlisting the support of the Italian government and museums around the world, the organisers have assembled more than 20 of

‘The Splendid Art of Tea Utensils from Cha-no-yu and Sen-cha’ Seikado Bunko Art Museum, Jan 23-Mar 21 Re-opened after renovations in autumn 2015, Setagaya’s Seikado Bunko museum now puts on its second special exhibit after its facelift, shining the spotlight on tea utensils from the museum’s extensive collection. Centred on pieces previously owned and used by major samurai families, including Tohoku’s fabled Date clan, this display includes several National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. A nice opportunity for learning more about the differences between the standard and the sencha (green tea) versions of the tea ceremony and the cultures surrounding them, the exhibit sees a significant portion of the museum collection revealed to the public for the first time in 15 years. If you’re

at all curious about how the daimyo lords of the feudal era went about sipping their tea, this one should make for one interesting show. 2-23-1 Okamoto, Setagaya. 03 5405 8686. tinyurl.com/TOTteautensils. 10am-4.30pm (last entry 30 min before closing), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is pub hol). ‘Waro Kishi: Kyoto_Home Away From Home’ Toto Gallery Ma, Jan 28-Mar 20 Toto Gallery Ma holds some of the city’s best modern and contemporary architecture shows. For this one, architect Waro Kishi will be displaying his work inspired by his life in and connection to Kyoto. He graduated from Kyoto University, where he currently teaches, and helped in the design of Japanese restaurant Wakuden, which is located in the city. 1-24-3 Toto Nogizaka Bldg 3, Aoyama, Minato. 03 3402 1010. tinyurl.com/ TOThomeaway. 11am-6pm (last entry 30 min before closing), closed Mon and pub hol. ‘Takashi Murakami’s Superflat Collection’ Yokohama Museum of Art, Jan 30-Apr 3 As the inventor of the Superflat art movement, Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami has impacted artists around the world. His own influences lie in manga, anime and pop culture, and his

paintings and sculptures are internationally acclaimed. There’s been plenty of hype around his current ‘500 Arhats’ exhibition at Roppongi’s Mori Art Museum, but you can delve even deeper into Murakami’s world by taking a look at his extended art collection at the Yokohama Museum of Art. 3-4-1 Minatomirai, Nishi, Yokohama. 045 221 0300. tinyurl.com/TOTsuperflat. 10am-6pm (last entry 30 min before closing), closed Thu, except Feb 11. ‘Yebisu International Festival for Art & Alternative Visions’ Various venues around Yebisu Garden Place, Feb 11-Feb 20 This annual show displays a variety of artwork ranging from modern paintings to movies, dance and music. This year’s exhibition is based on the concept ‘Moving Garden’, created by acclaimed French landscape artist Gilles Clement and focusing on the beauty of nature. You can look forward to Fujiko Nakaya’s famous fog installations and works by international artists such as Chris Chong Chan Fui and Ben Russell. 4-20 Ebisu, Shibuya. 03 3251 3700. tinyurl.com/TOTyebisufes. 10am-8pm (until 6pm on the final day), last entry 30 min before closing time. For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 49

Art & Culture

depicting emotions through abstract images. His work was acknowledged internationally, especially after his death, with much of his art being exhibited overseas at galleries such as the British Museum, Art Institute of Chicago and Museum of Fine Arts Boston. But this show is his biggest exhibition ever. 3-1 Kitanomaru Park, Chiyoda. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTonchikoshiro. 10am-5pm (until 8pm on Fri, last entry 30 min before closing), closed Mon.

Botticelli’s finest works to be shown here, including ‘Adoration of the Magi’ and ‘Madonna of the Book’. The exhibition also makes space for the art of Filippo Lippi, Botticelli’s mentor, and that of his pupil Filippino Lippi, providing an in-depth look at the artistic heritage of the Florentine great. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 3823 6921. tinyurl.com/ TOTbotticellitime. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri until 8pm), last entry 30 min before closing, closed Mon except Mar 21 & 28.

‘CORBEAU QUI MANGE, CORBEAU QUI EST MANGE’

Art & Culture

Your work mixes traditional calligraphy with modern technology… When we were young, it was basically still an analogue world, right? But since then, digital has spread all over. One argument for why is that it’s just ones and zeros: Like kanji written on paper, its components or brushstrokes are hidden, allowing for expression that’s free from conventions. Things like age, origin and nationality don’t matter. In that same way, if I incorporate calligraphy into digital art, it makes it easy to approach and it might affect young people, or those from abroad, in a way traditional calligraphy doesn’t. Plus, more than anything, Japan is a country of culture and technology. I think combining those two elements is the best way to transmit Japan to the world.

du Louvre in Paris. What will you be showing? One of the pieces is a combination of a seven-metre folding screen and iron sculptures. The kanji sculptures are placed in front of the screen and their shadows fuse into it, displaying the text. Japanese art often combines images and text. Manga and anime are current examples of that tradition, but even ancient Japanese paintings have stories written on them. This piece is an extension of that tradition.

Different strokes

With her work featured in galleries, ads and international collections (M Night Shyamalan is reportedly a fan), Sisyu is Japan’s calligrapher to the world. Matt Schley chats to her ahead of her Paris show

hen we met up with Sisyu in her Tokyo atelier, it was just a week after the November terrorist attack in Paris. Sisyu was in the throes of preparing for a December exhibition in the French capital, and she was determined to follow through on the show. ‘It’s going ahead just as planned,’ she told us. ‘I think people do want to get on with their day-to-day lives.’ She showed us one of her new pieces – an animated wall-to-wall screen where touching a certain kanji (Chinese character) causes it to transform into its corresponding meaning – and then sat down with us to chat more about the Paris exhibition, the

power of Japanese culture, and how ¥100 pens can make your writing more beautiful. The kanji characters that make up ‘Sisyu’ mean ‘purple’ and ‘boat’. Why did you choose those characters? In Japan, purple is thought of as a very noble colour. It also refers to the character Murasaki in ‘The Tale of Genji’. Murasaki was exceptionally beautiful and beloved by her suitors. As for boat, it’s a character that’s been used in the names of many calligraphers and sumi-e (Japanese ink painting) artists throughout Japanese art history, so I adopted it as a part of that tradition.

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Why is transmitting Japanese culture to the world important to you? Until recently, Japan was very strong in terms of economics. But that’s no longer the case. In our age, in order to get people to take interest in Japan, we can use cultural power rather than economic power. That’s what my generation can do. There was a great story on your blog recently about a child who was entranced by one of your pieces. Before we open an exhibition officially, we always have a kind of pre-opening, where nurseries around the neighbourhood bring children to see the show. Recently, a four-year-old boy from one of the nurseries squatted in front of one of my pieces and just stared at it for a good 30 minutes. I was really taken aback. Whenever we have kids at the exhibitions, I always get a lot of motivation from their pure reactions, so if this time around, I was able to give something back to this little boy, as an artist, I’m very happy. You’re exhibiting at the Salon des Beaux Arts at the Carrousel

How can we Japanese learners make our writing more beautiful? First off, you should get a pen that was made in Japan. Japanese pens are designed so you can write kanji, hiragana and katakana – all three writing systems – very well. You can get good ones for ¥100 or ¥200. Made in Japan. It’s true! For info and upcoming exhibitions, visit www.e-sisyu.com

PORTRAIT: MANABU MOROOKA

Art & Culture

We need to use our cultural power

Music

DJ Bar Bridge, World Kitchen Baobab (below), Grandfather’s (below right)

Music for the soul

Turn your evening tipple into something more soulful at these top music bars. Words Kunihiro Miki

t’s easy to find a club in downtown Tokyo, where the music will be thumping and you can lose yourself on the dancefloor. But it’s a little harder to find a local music bar where you know the tunes will be quality and they’ll suit a more reflective mood. Here, we round up five of our favourite bars that are known for their refined record collections, for hosting choice DJs, and for generally just being havens for serious music lovers.

DJ BAR BRIDGE

Since opening in 2014, DJ Bar Bridge has steadily established itself as a standard-bearer for music lovers. Besides its outstanding location on the 10th floor of a building that’s just at the entrance of

Nonbei Yokocho (‘Drunkards’ Alley’) and overlooks the centre of Shibuya, it features appearances from superb veteran DJs every day of the week. Whether you just want to nurse a whisky while enjoying live DJ tunes in the background or hit the dance floor, you’re in good company here – the regular clientele features a mix of music and fashion industry insiders, young club-music fans, and dedicated partygoers. Yet everyone here is unassuming, simply here to enjoy some of the best music on offer in Shibuya. 10F Parkside Kyodo Bldg, 1-25-6 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 6568. tinyurl.com/TOTbar-bridge. Daily 8pm-5am. Entrance ¥1,000.

WORLD KITCHEN BAOBAB

A cosmopolitan spot where you can enjoy music, food and alcohol from around the world, including the Caribbean, Africa, and Central and South America. World Kitchen Baobab is almost considered a sacred place by world music fans; it’s full of precious records and miscellaneous goods collected by the owner on his travels. Live events are also held here from time to time, offering performances by excellent Japanese musicians playing everything from Latin music to reggae to styles from Africa, Brazil and more. On occasion, they also feature overseas artists. B1F Ohara Bldg, 2-4-6 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino-shi (Kichijoji Station). 0422 76 2430. tinyurl.com/TOTbaobab. Mon-Thu & Sun 6pm-1am, Fri, Sat & day before pub hols 6pm-4am. 52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

GRANDFATHER’S

Established 40 years ago, the aptly named Grandfather’s started out with a playlist style that was uncommon at the time, blending together rock LPs one song at a time. Today, the tunes are a selection of popular music (mainly AOR and funk and soul) from the ’70s, when vinyl records were mainstream. However, the owner is constantly on the lookout for new music and if a modern artist wins his favour they’ll get some ‘airtime’ too. (We recently heard him spin a few tracks by Joss Stone and Rumer.) After all these years, the interior is still well maintained, giving off a rich ambience that’s appropriate for such a venerable bar and that lends an extra level of charm to the music. B1F Flat Bldg, 1-24-7 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3407 9505. tinyurl.com/TOTgrandfathers. Daily 5pm-3am.

GRANDFATHER'S: MANABU MOROOKA, ALL OTHER IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Music

Everyone here is unassuming

LITTLE SOUL CAFE

SPINCOASTER MUSIC BAR

Opened in March 2015 by the energetic music media company Spincoaster, this bar combines high resolution and analogue sound systems for a unique vibe. The playlists are prepared by Spincoaster curators, covering a wide range of genres and eras in high quality audio. It’s recently become popular for private get-togethers, anime song-listening sessions, and explosively loud screenings of live concert streams. 1-C Kuwano Bldg, 2-26-2 Yoyogi, Shibuya (Yoyogi, Minami-Shinjuku stations). 03 6300 9211. tinyurl.com/TOTspin. Mon-Sat 2pm-late, closed Sun (except if Mon is a hol. Closed on last day of consecutive hols).

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 53

Music

Located in the music district of Shimokitazawa, this bar quietly opens its doors every evening from 9pm. When you walk inside, you’ll no doubt be overwhelmed by the staggering number of records lining the walls – there are 12,000 in total, featuring a wide range of music from ’60s soul to rare groove, and modern funk to disco. Little Soul Cafe is well-known for attracting overseas artists and record buyers, and the staff do their best to accommodate any enthusiastic music requests. First-timers are welcomed by the bar’s at-home feel, and music experts will never leave disappointed. 2F Taisei Bldg, 3-20-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 5454 9800. tinyurl. com/TOTlittlesoul. Daily 9pm-4am (until 2am on Sun & hols).

Music

Watch them live: Jan 29, 2016 at Daikanyama Unit.

Music

SEIHO If the concept of musical genres seems outdated to you, Seiho Hayakawa’s frantic electronic sounds will probably be perfect for you. The Osaka artist, recording as Seiho, creates wonky tracks loaded up with pitch-shifted vocals and sudden changes in tempo, blending intimate R&B with raging techno with pop hooks to make something mind spinning. He’ll release a new album early in 2016, meaning there should be plenty of chances to see his wild live show in the coming months. Key track: ‘Taboo’ soundcloud.com/seiho

COLOR-CODE Formed in 2013 partially thanks to fashion designer and Lady Gaga collaborator Nicola Formichetti wanting to discover the Japanese version of Mother Monster, color-code’s take on electro-pop is every bit as catchy as their clothes. The trio dropped their first single, the surging ‘I Like Dat’, in late 2014 and have followed it up with two more pulsing singles over the last year – not to mention eye-catching videos for each. Expect them to push further in the coming months. Key track: ‘I Like Dat’ color-code.jp

PELICAN FANCLUB Indie-pop tends to have a reputation for being sunny and simplistic. Pelican Fanclub, however, reminds that catchy guitar music can work well in the shadows too. The quartet formed in 2012 and have been making shoegaze-tinged rock since, the bulk of it taking on darker tones similar to fellow Japanese outfit The Novembers without sacrificing the earworm hooks at the centre of their songs. Last August’s ‘Pelican Fanclub’ album saw the group take further steps forward, resulting in some of their most immediate – but still brooding – material yet. Key track: ‘Dali’ pelicanfanclub.com

to watch in 2016

CARPAINTER Pining for the glory days of UK 2-step? Or maybe you want to hear something new and futuristic? Tokyo track maker Carpainter has you covered in either case, crafting garage-inspired movers given a shiny sheen. One of the central players on the burgeoning Trekkie Trax dance label, Carpainter has released a series of EPs over the last couple of years, highlighted by 2015’s forward-thinking ‘Out of Resistance’. He’s also been getting more looks from major labels to remix bigger stars. Key track: ‘Out of Resistance’ soundcloud.com/carpainter 54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

TURNTABLE FILMS This Kyoto trio crafts driving folk numbers that play out like short stories. They set out in 2008 as an outfit singing memorable songs in English, switching between tender acoustic guitar numbers and stomping pop songs. On 2015’s ‘Small Town Talk’, they switched over to their native Japanese to create more lyrically rich material, full of narratives with an author’s eye for detail. Despite the linguistic shift, Turntable Films’ music remains charming, in whatever tongue you speak. Key track: ‘Cello’ turntablefilms.com

Watch them live: Jan 28, 2016 at Shibuya Duo Music Exchange.

LUCKY KILIMANJARO Tokyo’s Lucky Kilimanjaro tends to be lumped in with the record-store-approved genre of ‘new city pop’, a 2015 invention building on of the glitzy sounds of ’80s Japan. Yet the tag does some disservice to the six-member unit, who create hyper-colourful synth-pop anchored by hands-in-the-air choruses that doesn’t really sound like the Bubble Era. Last year’s stupidly catchy ‘Fullcolor’ EP highlighted just how ‘of the moment’ Lucky Kilimanjaro is, and what makes them a unique group to keep an eye on. Key track: ‘Super Star’ lucky-kilimanjaro.tumblr.com

DAOKO It’s a story that’s hard to resist: highschool student starts uploading her raps about what being a teenage girl is like, and starts gaining attention for her mature lyrics (not to mention solid backing music). Tokyo’s Daoko used this very original story to springboard onto a wider platform, getting the chance to collaborate with long-running producers M-Flo and provide vocals to the viral animated short ‘Me! Me! Me!’ in 2014. She’s been moving in a more Watch her live: pop direction lately, but remains at her Jan 15, 2016 best when in rap mode. at Shibuya O-East. Key track: ‘Kakete Ageru’ daoko.jp

TOKYO HEALTH CLUB The four members of Tokyo Health Club have helped play an important role in the capital’s online rap scene in recent years, having helped establish the online imprint Omake Club which has put the spotlight on up-and-coming MCs from across the city. They deserve shine, too, as their tag-team approach to rapping works wonders over hard-hitting tracks or more melodic backdrops (see late2015 cut ‘ASA’, featuring some sweet, sweet sax), and they put on one energetic, memorable live show. Key track: ‘City Girl’ tokyohealthclub.com

QRION Owing to an upbringing in Hokkaido, electronic artist Qrion’s music strikes a balance between fidgety Internet-born touches and more rustic details. She’s a fan of contemporary EDM, yet her songs feature far more samples of natural sounds and space than blaring drops, though she’s also keen on creating floor-eyeing beats. Her meditative work has won over Canadian artist Ryan Hemsworth, and lead to Qrion putting her piano-centric spin on remixes for How To Dress Well and Giraffage, among others. Key track: ‘Sink’ qrion.net For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 55

Music

Don’t let the year go by without catching these hot-rightnow local acts. Words Patrick St Michel

DYGL A constant dilemma Japanese acts face is whether to sing in Japanese and focus on the domestic audience, or try out English vocals in an effort to court international ears. Tokyo’s DYGL opts to just write sticky, Brit-pop inspired fuzz rock and ignore those questions. On the strength of a few songs and one very strong EP released last June, they’ve become a live fixture in the capital and have played shows in the US. In whatever language, these guys know how to write a driving rock song. Key track: ‘Let’s Get Into Your Car’ soundcloud.com/dayglotheband

Nightlife Everything is illuminated

Nightlife

The days may be getting shorter and colder, but Tokyo is far from dark and desolate at this time of year. Explore the city’s sparkling winter wonderland at these top lightup events THE ECO CHIC

Marunouchi Illumination Always one of the most popular Tokyo illumination spots, Marunouchi Naka-dori will again be lit up with around one million champagne-coloured, lowenergy bulbs, making for a stylish display that’s at least trying to be environmentally friendly. Until Feb 14. Marunouchi Naka-dori, around 2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTmaruillumi

THE OTT

Yomiuri Land Jewellumination World-renowned lighting designer Motoko Ishii’s projects include Tokyo Tower, the Rainbow Bridge and Elisabeth Bridge in Budapest, so Yomiuri Land scored big when they hired her to produce the park’s winter illumination show last year. Ishii is back again for 2015-16 and, as the name suggests, jewels are the focus: four million colourful LEDs will be set up throughout the vast area, while visitors will also be treated to a 27m-tall Tower of Light. Until Feb 14. Yomiuri Land, 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi (Keio Yomiuri Land Station). Night-time entrance fee ¥1,000, high school and junior high students ¥500, younger children free. Closed Jan 12-14, 18-21, 25-28; Feb 2, 3, 9 & 10. tinyurl.com/TOTyomiurilights

Yomiuri Land, Canyon d'Azur (below left), Tokyo Dome (below right)

THE FAIRYTALE

Canyon d’Azur – Caretta Illumination This Shiodome shopping complex always pulls out all the stops for its Christmas lightups, and this year is no exception: visitors enter through 56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

an immersive Corridor of Light, which leads to the Caretta Plaza’s massive Pillars of Light and a blindingly sparkling tree. A total of 270,000 LEDs are used and a six-minute audiovisual light show takes place every 20 minutes. Until Feb 14. Caretta Shiodome, 1-8-2 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato (Shiodome Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTcaretta

THE FUTURISTIC

Tokyo Dome City Winter Illuminations Themed on the night sky and produced by lightup champions Naked Inc, this is one of the top illumination events in Tokyo in terms of scale, boasting hundreds of thousands of LEDs all around the Tokyo Dome City complex. The Meets Port area is especially impressive, with star-like lights set up on the trees and huge, futuristiclooking ‘space globes’ adding to the sci-fi atmosphere. Until Feb 14. Tokyo Dome City, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo (Kasuga, Korakuen, Suidobashi stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTdomecity

Tobu Zoo

THE ZOO SETTING

the occasion, allowing visitors to observe the nightly activities of the park’s popular white tigers and penguins. Until Feb 14. Tobu Zoo, 110 Suka, Miyashiro-machi, Minamisaitamagun, Saitama (Tobu-Dobutsukoen Station). ¥700, children aged 12 and under ¥500. tinyurl.com/ TOTwinterzoo

THE MULTISENSORY

THE QUIRKY

Shinjuku Terrace

Shinjuku Terrace City Illumination As is customary, the Shinjuku Terrace

winter lights for the third year in a row, adding another good reason to visit this impressive collection of classy cafés, restaurants and boutiques. The illumination show has been further enhanced this year, with pink and green LEDs lighting up the surroundings and quirky owl statues greeting visitors at seven locations around the area. Until Feb 14. Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi, 1-25-4 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda (Akihabara Station). tinyurl. com/TOTforest-illum

Touchable sensors activate an audiovisual show

Forest Illumination Kanda’s red-brick Manseibashi station complex turns on the

THE MOST ELABORATE

Sagamiko Illumillium Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest claims to be using the largest amount of lights in the entire Kanto region (over five million LED lamps). Now in its seventh year, the production has once again been renewed and features a wide range of colours, accompanying music, and light constructions that take advantage of the fountains and lush greenery of the park. It also takes first prize for most amusing theme as this winter it’s ‘Great Britain’, so you can look forward to a gaudily illuminated replica of Buckingham Palace, in addition to fish and chip stalls. View the entire spectacle while taking a ride on the Ferris wheel. Until Apr 10. Sagamiko Resort Pleasure Forest, 1934 Wakayanagi, Midori, Sagamihara, Kanagawa (Sagamiko Station, then take a bus to Pleasure Forest Mae). ¥800, children ¥500. tinyurl.com/TOTsagamiko-illum

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Nightlife

Winter Illumination Using over a million LED lights, the Tobu Zoo illuminations aim to provide a romantic atmosphere, particularly with the impressive displays that take advantage of the park’s large cherry trees. Danceable tunes accompany the awkwardly named ‘Rhythmnation’, while the ‘Hikari no Short Film’ show combines moving images with mysterious colours and shifting ‘storylines’. Lighting in the zoo area is also modified for

illumination takes place around the Southern Terrace and the Odakyu Groupcontrolled area that reaches toward the West Exit of Shinjuku Station. This season’s theme is, admirably enough, ‘diversity’: trees around the terrace area will be lit up with multicoloured LEDs and equipped with touchable sensors that activate a special audiovisual show. Partially visible from Yamanote line trains, this one always gets our spirits up around the holidays. Until Feb 14. Shinjuku Southern Terrace, 2-2-2 Yoyogi, Shibuya (Shinjuku Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTshinjuku-terrace

Promotional feature LOCAL INSIGHT

ONE NIGHT AT ROBOT RESTAURANT Toss aside your assumptions about Tokyo’s craziest show – it’s a lot more than just robots. Words Aiste Riabovaite

PAYING HOMAGE TO TRADITIONS Surprisingly, the show began with a kabuki feel to it, followed by taiko performers wearing puffy redand-white wigs and white face make-up, and a group of ninja soldiers who marched through with a no-nonsense attitude. I was interested to see some of the performers actually wearing kimonos (in a robot restaurant!) and to hear old-school enka music mixed with rock tunes playing in the background. Being a huge fan of traditional Japan and its deeprooted culture, I found this part of the show to be most enjoyable and was immediately drawn into its colourful world, feeling like I had been transported to some sort of parallelworld Japanese matsuri (festival).

HOW TO BOOK Bring the discount coupon on page 57 with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

FANTASY FIGHTING SCENES There is one scene from the show that is guaranteed to stay in my mind for a long time: an insane battle between robots, dressed-up girls and larger-than-life animal plushies including a panda riding on a huge bull. This was such a random moment in the show, featuring such crazy combinations of characters, that it completely took me off guard. It’s definitely one of those ‘only in Japan’ experiences that leaves you both stunned and giggling. Don’t even attempt to find a storyline in this section, just enjoy the peculiar moments like when the princess enters on a snake, which ceremoniously eats the leader of the robots to a Limp Bizkit soundtrack.

Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥7,000, excluding food and drinks. Note that the schedule might change due to maintenance. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

BOOGIE-READY ’BOTS Next came a troupe of drummer girls, followed by the show’s real stars: the robots. Instead of looking intimidating, the robots showed off cute dance moves, even wiggling their booties to the music. And as massive as they were, they had no trouble bopping around the small stage area. One huge robot snake emerged from the wings as if it was summoned by Lord Voldemort and slithered around the stage while flashing its protruding red eyes. By this time, I was waving my glowsticks like I just didn’t care. Can’t imagine yourself getting that swept up? Just wait...

IMAGES: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

little while ago, I was walking through Shinjuku when I came across a huge robot with a girl sitting inside and waving at me. I awkwardly waved back, noticing a Robot Restaurant sign on top. So when I was invited to watch the show, you can imagine my preconceptions. In fact, I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy what I assumed would be a bizarre spectacle of robots fighting as if in a fantasy action anime film. Nevertheless, I was kept on the edge of my seat for the full 90 minutes by the colourful and constantly changing programme and soundtrack. The show is divided up into sections (no chance of getting bored!), with the following being some of my favourite parts.

Film

If Bond was Japanese…

As Daniel Craig steps down from the role, we imagine a parallel universe where 007 is actually from Tokyo. Words Cal Widdall

ILLUSTRATION: HARUNA NITADORI

aniel Craig recently told Time Out he doesn’t give a f–ck who takes over his role as James Bond. Based on the media speculation surrounding the next Bond, he might be the only one who doesn’t care. The current frontrunner is ‘Homeland’ actor Damian Lewis, but there have also been rumours that Idris Elba could become the first black Bond. Which made us wonder how the Bond universe might be altered if he were Japanese. Now, we know what you’re thinking: ‘Hasn’t there been a Japanese James Bond before? In “You Only Live Twice”?’ No, that was just Sean Connery wearing a toupee and eye make-up that was as convincing as it was racially sensitive. Easy mistake to make. Just to be clear, our musings on how James Bond might be different if he were Japanese are based on the character actually being Japanese, not just the actor playing him. Here, we look at how the 007 fundamentals might change if Bond were a true Tokyoite.

anachronistic often seen in Q’s gadgets would be a good match for the country that invented bullet trains yet still uses fax machines. Perhaps a humanoid like Honda’s Asimo or Softbank’s Pepper could provide some assistance. The spike umbrella from ‘For Your Eyes Only’ would need to be kept safe in the lab though, as it would almost certainly end up in the wrong hands if left in any public space.

The gadgets Japan’s notoriety for gadgets could serve our Bond well, and the mix of ultra-modern and

The catchphrase Rather than the usual ‘Bond. James Bond’, the Japanese reverse name order would see

The drink Rather than the ubiquitous shaken not stirred Martini, our Japanese star might go for something more homegrown. A glass of high quality sake could display a refined taste without sacrificing masculinity, while a cup of matcha tea could signal the beginning of a new teetotal Bond. Perhaps the best choice would be a Yamazaki single malt, which shook and stirred up the whisky industry last year by beating Scottish brands to the title of world’s best.

our new hero introducing himself as ‘Bond James’, confusing his enemies and giving him a few seconds of extra thinking time. The action Perhaps our new Bond could take a page out of Mario creator Shigeru Miyamoto’s surreal doodle-filled book. During the final development stages of the GoldenEye video game, Nintendo’s legendary producer was concerned about the amount of violence and suggested that it might be nice if, at the end of the game, you got to shake hands with all your enemies in the hospital. The theme song In Adele and Sam Smith, the producers have stuck with British talent for the last couple of movies, but let’s be honest, who wouldn’t want to see a hallucinatory Kyary Pamyu Pamyuinspired vision of the opening credits? The sex Statistics show that while Japan may not be the sexless realm many foreign media outlets have portrayed it to be, there are less undercover operations taking place than in most other countries. For a Japanese Bond, this may actually mean focusing on the mission at hand rather than getting handsy on the mission. Hopefully the sexual innuendo would remain though, it would be enjoyable to see someone else expel them with the obvious discomfort Pierce Brosnan showed.

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LGBT Annex until 5am. Drinks are cheap and the crowd is a mix of youthful gay and straight, locals and tourists. 2F, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station). 03 5362 9720. www.timeout.com/tokyo/lgbt/ arty-farty. First Sat of every month. ¥1,500 (two drinks, with flyer three drinks).

Aisotope Lounge, Department H (below)

AISOTOPE LOUNGE With two dancefloors, Aisotope Lounge is one of Ni-Chome’s bigger clubs, and the unisex toilets and strongly mixed cocktails add to the fun. Don’t miss these top events:

Latex, anime and gogo boys Party like there’s no tomorrow at these top gay events in Tokyo. Words Joseph Eddy

okyo has one of the most densely packed gay districts in the world. With so many bars and club nights to choose from in Shinjuku’s famed Ni-Chome area, many city visitors only get to experience a handful of what’s on offer. Take your pick from our roundup of the top events for LGBT party seekers, both within and without Ni-Chome. DEPARTMENT H AT TOKYO KINEMA CLUB On the first Saturday of every month, Department H opens its doors to the oddballs of Tokyo. Described by one of the MCs, drag queen Magarette, as a ‘cheerful and peaceful gathering of fetishists’, it has been going strong for over 20 years and features shows and skits performed by a wide array of artists. The crowd is an intriguing

mix of latex lovers, straight men dressed as women, and everything in between. They don’t serve alcohol so bring as much of your own food and drink as you like! 6F 1-1-14 Negishi, Taito (Uguisudani Station). 03 3874 7988. www.kinema.jp. ¥5,000, with flyer ¥4,500, in dress code ¥3,500. SHANGRI-LA AT AGEHA Five times a year, the largest gay event in Asia comes to the gargantuan Ageha in Shin-Kiba. Pumping house and techno spread throughout the five rooms, each of which boasts its own gogo boy troupe. Women should check out the cubicle nearest to the toilet entrance – it leads to a secret, lockable room. On gay-event nights, the club offers a free return shuttle from Ni-Chome, just outside Caffe Veloce. These can get ridiculously crowded but they run every 20

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minutes from 22.40pm to 3.10am so you won’t have to wait long for the next one. Check their website for upcoming events. 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Koto (Shin-Kiba Station). 03 5534 2525. www.timeout.com/tokyo/ clubs/ageha. 8pm till late. ¥4,000, Shangri-la or Ageha members ¥3,500, 9monsters app users ¥3,000, 20-25 year olds ¥2,500. NOCTURNAL BY ARTY FARTY AND ANNEX Every month, two Ni-Chome institutions, Arty Farty and Annex, team up for their Nocturnal event. Regular customers might view it as Arty Farty with a cover charge, but the better-quality music and moneysaving drink tickets make it worth a visit. The festivities begin at Arty Farty at 6pm. At 1am the action moves over to the slightly larger

Diamond Cutter Each month they hold their Diamond Cutter event exclusively for women, gay or straight, with different themes each time. You can look forward to cosplay contests, performances and their original tipping concept: buy two tickets for ¥1,000 and bequeath it (in various ways) to your favourite staff member. The club also offers a VIP room for ¥1,000 per person. Second Sat of every month. ¥2,500, with themed costume ¥2,000. Drag Queen the Show! For a gay old time, sissy that walk down to Aisotope Lounge for their drag queen shows featuring songand-dance numbers by TV personality Mitsu Mangrove and Ni-Chome legend Babie with her fabulous handmade outfits. Doors open at 8pm, with shows twice during the night, first at 9.30pm and again at 10.30pm. Held irregularly. ¥2,000 (one drink). Akiba Night It wouldn’t be Japan without the obligatory anime night. Akiba Night has been running for 12 years and is jam-packed with all things anime, from songs to themed drag queens and various anime scenes. Otaku fans should bookmark Feb 26 for the next event as they don’t come around that often. Doors open 8pm. ¥3,000, with flyer ¥2,700, aeroplane/bullet train ticket holders ¥2,000 Aisotope Lounge, 2-12-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). 03 6380 1504. www.timeout.com/tokyo/lgbt/ aisotope-lounge. For more LGBT features and listings, go to timeout.com/tokyo

DEPARTMENT H: NOBORU ABE

LGBT

It’s a cheerful gathering of fetishists

Sport Around the world, on his own Kojiro Shiraishi already holds the record as the youngest sailor to circumnavigate the globe in a solo journey (he was 26). Now, he’s about to embark on another epic adventure. Words Akiko Toya and Shiori Kotaki

WANT TO HELP? If you’d like to lend Kojiro Shiraishi a hand and help him make it to the starting line of the Vendée Globe, check out the website kojiro.club. It features all the details of the race, and lists information on Shiraishi’s lectures and fundraising events (in Japanese only). Details about the race can be found at www. vendeeglobe.org/en.

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Sport

As if the race itself wasn’t daunting enough, Shiraishi faces a tall hurdle before he can set sail on November 6, 2016: he needs to raise a whopping ¥300 million in funding in order to compete. And it’s proving difficult to raise the cash in Japan, where yacht racing doesn’t exactly capture the attention of the masses. But Shiraishi keeps trying, enticing people with his talk of how ‘there’s no race more exciting than this: a single person, the smallest unit of humanity, circumnavigating this enormous world alone, relying on nothing but the wind’. So far, his fundraising lectures in Tokyo have drawn enthusiasts from all across the country, with many hopping on the shinkansen in order to come and support Shiraishi’s Vendée Globe bid. Doesn’t he think he’ll get lonely out there, all on his own? The ever-upbeat Shiraishi says, ‘Even though I’ll be by myself, I still think there’ll always be something interesting for me to do or see.’ It’s the kind of positive attitude that’s helped him to charm his supporters so far, and the kind that’s bound to see him conquer the high seas once again.

nless you’re a sailing enthusiast, the name Vendée Globe may not mean much. But this around-the-globe, nonstop solo yacht race, held once every four years, is the most demanding challenge of its kind and considered the ultimate in ocean racing. Aiming to add his name to the list of less than 200 captains to successfully complete the race since it began in 1989, Kojiro Shiraishi, 48, is also endeavouring to become the first Asian to ever take part in this hallowed contest. Spinning a world globe in his hands as we chat to him about the race, Shiraishi looks like an excited young boy overflowing with curiosity and adventurous spirit. ‘If I didn’t have a globe to spin like this, I’d have no idea of what to expect in this competition. That’s quite unusual [for a competition], isn’t it?’ However, when asked if he’s prepared, he assures us he could set sail ‘right away – tomorrow, if need be’. That’s because Shiraishi continuously keeps himself in top form, honing his skills as the professional skipper he is. There’s no way he could even begin to think about competing in the Vendée Globe otherwise. The race begins at Les Sables d’Olonne in France before following a course from west to east via the three major capes of Good Hope, Leeuwin and the Horn. It’s treacherous at times and can take anywhere from 78 days to 160 days to complete, with many sailors capsizing along the way.

Travel & Hotels

O D I A K K HO V

Trying to find your go-to ski or snowboard resort this winter? With over 600 resorts in Japan, that’s no easy feat. To help you decide, we’ve compared the resorts in two of the most popular areas. Words Megan Waters NISEKO Located around three hours by bus from Sapporo, Japan’s best-known resort is increasingly becoming known as the Whistler of the East. Very accessible and foreigner-friendly, Niseko comprises three main resorts (Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri) that are joined together at the top of Mount Niseko-Annupuri. A special combination ticket, the Niseko All Mountain Pass, gives access to all three resorts for ¥5,600 per day. Huge amounts of light powder snow and long runs make Niseko a powder-hunter’s paradise, complete with off-trail skiing and snowboarding – relatively uncommon in Japan. Access the backcountry through guided tours, helicopter trips (heli skiing), or cat skiing, where skiers and snowboarders are taken up the mountain in a snowcat grooming machine with an attached cabin in search of that glorious powder. A guided group tour for four to 12 guests, including safety equipment, lunch and transport costs ¥38,000 each per day: hanazononiseko.com/ en/snow/weiss-cat-skiing.

KIRORO SNOW WORLD A two-hour bus ride from Sapporo’s airport, and just 60 minutes from Niseko, Kiroro is not as high profile as other nearby Hokkaido resorts. But the lack of crowds means powderhounds can make the most of the abundant snow and tree skiing without the rest of Hokkaido’s hordes. This medium-sized resort has 21 runs spread equally over green, blue and black pistes, and is good for all levels. Although there is no village nearby, the port town of Otaru is only 28km away. Here, you can visit the Otaru Canal, which is lined with cafés and shopping centres in converted old warehouses. The Nikka Whisky Distillery – home to one of Japan’s top whisky makers – is also in the area. It was founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru who studied whisky-making techniques in Scotland and is known as the father of Japanese whisky. The distillery allows visitors to enjoy a self-guided walking tour around the grounds and sample different Nikka whiskies. www.kiroro.co.jp/en

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RUSUTSU Besides the perfectly groomed slopes, piles of powder snow, and some of the best tree runs in the world, this resort is a haven for families and kids. Full- or half-day childcare is available for children aged one to four, while older kids – or adults who are tired of the slopes – can hang out in the snow park and do some tubing, sledding, snow biking and other activities. Stay at the Rusutsu Resort Tower hotel, which is conveniently ski-in ski-out, has a wave pool and slide, and boasts two games arcades. en.rusutsu.co.jp FURANO Although Furano has established facilities as well as services in English, it doesn’t really feel like a resort, especially not a Western one. For a real Japan experience, visit the nearby town of Furano for delicious Japanese food and sake. The accommodation options range from Japanese-style hotels, pensions and minshukus (Japanese-style B&Bs) to the more Westernised self-contained

options such as apartments and chalets. Visit Fukiage Onsen on Mount Tokachi, a well-known outdoor hot spring. Free of charge and open 24 hours a day, this tucked-away bathing spot is for both males and females, but more reserved bathers can wear a swimsuit. tinyurl.com/ TOTfukiage

HOW TO GET TO HOKKAIDO Fly into New Chitose Airport (Sapporo) from Tokyo’s Haneda or Narita airports, or Osaka International Airport. Although just a 90-minute flight from Haneda, it’s one of the busiest air routes in the world. Or take the new Hokkaido Shinkansen, which is set to open in March 2016 and connects Tokyo with Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station in Hokkaido via the undersea Seikan Tunnel. The journey will take just over four hours.

IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK

Travel & Hotels

Everything is bigger and better in Hokkaido, Japan’s most northern (and coldest) island, which gets consistent snowfalls. Powder hunters flock here in search of deep powder, off-piste and tree runs. But, located over 1,000km from Japan’s capital city, you need more than just a few days to really enjoy it.

A T A G I I N

IMAGES: ISTOCK

GALA YUZAWA This is the only ski resort in Japan with it’s own shinkansen train station, which means you can be on the slopes in under two hours from Tokyo Station. With 15 different runs, excellent facilities for kids and beginners, as well as ski, snowboard and wear rental, it’s the perfect hassle-free place to visit when you’ve just got to get your snow kick – even for just a few hours. Japan’s convenience culture even on the slopes. www.galaresort.jp NAEBA You may know Naeba for being the host of Fuji Rock Festival, but this neck of the woods gets slightly more glammed up in the winter months. Stay at the glitzy Naeba Prince Hotel – the main hub of the resort – for a ski-in ski-out indulgence. With 1,242 guest rooms, 22 restaurants, karaoke booths, spa centres, beauty and nail salons, table tennis and billiards tables, it’s more like a small city than a resort. But luxury like this doesn’t come cheap, so be prepared

to reach deep into those pockets. www.princehotels.com/en/naeba MYOKO KOGEN Because of its relative proximity to the sea, Myoko Kogen receives masses of snow each year. But it’s the quality, not quantity, of the snow that really matters. Here you’ll find lots and lots of glorious powder. Although not the light, dry snow that you’ll find in Hokkaido, this white stuff is still reasonably dry and is thought of as the best powder in the region. Off-piste and backcountry skiing are both permitted at this laidback resort so you can really enjoy the quality snow. myokokogen.net KAGURA This three-in-one resort incorporates the areas of Kagura, Mitsumata and Tashiro. You can also get to Naeba via the Dragondola – a 5.5km gondola that claims to be the longest ropeway in the world. A quiet resort, this is a haven for beginners or not-so-confident intermediate skiers and snowboarders. With its

sea of green runs (or maybe more turquoise because of their relative steepness compared to a standard beginner slope), this resort lets you comfortably cruise from one end to the other. A first timer? Don’t worry, Canyons Snowsports School offers private lessons in English. canyons. jp/tours/winter/snow-sports-school

at times. But its abundance of long, wide runs, four terrain parks and two halfpipes makes up for this, and it’s actually one of the best freestyle resorts in the country. It’s connected to Gala Yuzawa and Yuzawa Kogen, so you can buy a one-day pass for all three resorts (¥5,100 adults, ¥4,200 children). www.visitishiuchi.com

ISHIUCHI MARUYAMA At a maximum of altitude of 930m, this resort doesn’t quite reach the elevation of nearby Gala Yuzawa, meaning snow conditions can suffer

HOW TO GET TO NIIGATA Getting to these mountains is easy and only takes about 90 minutes from Tokyo. For most resorts (excluding Myoko Kogen), just jump on the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. Trains during the peak season go direct to Gala Yuzawa, or you can transfer at Echigo-Yuzawa Station to catch a local train or bus to your resort of choice. For Myoko Kogen, take the newly opened Hokuriku bullet train from central Tokyo.

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Travel & Hotels

Niigata’s close proximity to Tokyo, high average snowfall, and good quality snow make it the perfect destination for a one- or even two-day skiing or snowboarding trip. But with so much choice, the only problem is deciding which resort is right for you.

One more reason to choose Niigata…

Get a taste of traditional Japan by staying at this hotel hideaway during your skiing holiday. Words Akiko Toya

inter in Niigata is not only about skiing. At Osawa hot springs, which is just near renowned ski resorts Kagura and Muikamachi Hakkaisan, you’ll find Satoyama Jujo, an exquisite lodge overlooking the mountains, with concept rooms themed for different lifestyles and ultimate relaxation. Created by ‘Jiyujin’, a magazine geared towards people who value quality of life, Satoyama Jujo opened in 2014 and offers a grand experience of Japanese traditions. The hotel was reconstructed from a 150-year-old Japanese home and, as you enter the lounge space, you’ll notice signs of how the architecture accommodates for Japan’s heavy, compact snow. To allow the building to bear the weight of the snow in an area that can collect up to four metres of it, the rugged ceiling beams are intricately assembled. Amazingly, however, the building was constructed with no blueprint; just the intuition of the master builder. As a further nod to the lodge’s masterful design, the furniture in the lounge was created by renowned designers, with each piece being chosen for its individuality. Another significant feature of Satoyama Jujo is the (largely vegetarian) food on offer. The chef, who trained at a Michelin 3-star restaurant, presents ‘natural’ Japanese cuisine, a fusion of local food traditions, local knowledge and the essence of Ayurveda.

Winter ingredients include root vegetables such as turnips, daikon (Japanese white radish), carrots and renkon (lotus root), which are stored in the snow to increase their sweet flavour. This season, you can also look forward to dishes including amberjack and crab – and of course, the all-important rice bowl. The area happens to be one of Japan’s leading rice producers, so you’ll not only be treated to quality grains but also some of the best nihonshu (sake). And let’s not forget the outdoor hot spring, which boasts tremendous views across mountain ridges and abundant Japanese cedar forests. In the evening, the stars come out to play and you’ll marvel at the sense of space you’ve chanced upon. During winter, you’ll enjoy views of the snow-covered landscape while soaking in the steaming water – it’s a strange sensation when your body is immersed in hot water while your eyelashes start to collect little crystals of ice. After bathing, don’t take a shower; rather let the healing minerals from the onsen water soak into your skin. Satoyama Jujo is a place where history exists in harmony with modern art and design. When you hear the staff say ‘welcome home’, it feels at once unfamiliar and perfectly true. It’s a feeling that’s akin to reconnecting with a relative you haven’t seen in some time. And it’s sure not easy to leave.

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A fusion of Japanese cuisine with Ayurveda

ESSENTIAL INFO 1209-6 Osawa, Minami-Uonuma, Niigata Prefecture 025 783 6777 satoyama-jujo. com. Prices start at ¥32,000 per room per night. There are only 12 rooms, so reservation is required. English and French are okay. Children need to be elementary school age or older, and only one room is available for families with kids.

IMAGES: TORU IWASA

Travel & Hotels

Getting Around No more getting lost or paying ridiculous amounts for internet data packages

Getting Around

espite being a forerunner in the realms of robot dogs and 3D printers, Tokyo has been woefully lacking in the wi-fi department. Luckily, with a push to improve the city’s telecommunication infrastructure by the big 2020, Tokyo is finally catching up with the rest of the world and you no longer have to stand outside a 7-Eleven every time you want to connect to the internet. JAPAN CONNECTED-FREE WI-FI APP This mobile phone app allows you to search for free wi-fi spots and connect to different networks with one simple click (you will need the internet to do the initial registration so prepare for this beforehand). With this app, you can connect to wi-fi spots in various commercial areas, train stations, buses and in other cities around Japan. In Tokyo, this includes major tourist spots as well as lesser-known spots. The list is regularly updated and the service is available in 11 display languages.

Charge your phone with green energy

Note that the map requires an internet connection to be displayed, but the list of free wi-fi spots can be viewed offline. www.ntt-bp.net/jcfw/ en.html CONNECT AT TRAIN STATIONS JR East Free Wi-Fi: Available at 13 major stations along the Yamanote line as well as at the JR East Travel Service Center in Narita and Haneda airports. tinyurl.com/TOTjr-wifi Tokyo Metro Free Wi-Fi: Available at 143 selected subway stations. For a map and instructions on how to connect, visit tinyurl.com/TOTmetrowifi Tokyo Subway Navigation for Tourists app: Download this app to search for the fastest route to your

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next adventure and check out which stations offer free wi-fi. Like many other wi-fi services, you can connect free of charge for up to three hours every time you log in with your e-mail address. Don’t worry about the time limit because you can reconnect by simply re-entering your e-mail address. During emergencies, the service is open to anyone without pre-registration. The login page is available in English, Chinese and Korean. tinyurl.com/TOTsubway-app CONNECT BY AREA Shibuya Free Wi-Fi: Since April 2015, the service has expanded to a broader Shibuya area including Shibuya Station, Hikarie and both Tokyu department stores (Tokyu

Now you know where to connect to the internet, but what if your phone runs out of battery after you snap endless selfies? (Turn the page for selfie inspiration.) At City Charge, you can top up your battery life for free at the solar-powered stations set up in October 2015 by Mori Building at the Toranomon Hills complex. It will run for a one-year test trial and each station will generate enough power to charge up to 60 phones per day (15 minutes per charge). tinyurl.com/TOTsolarcharge For more essential travel info go to timeout.com/tokyo

WORDS: JOYCE LAM, IMAGE: PIXTA

Where to find free wi-fi in Tokyo

Toyoko and Tokyu Honten), 109 building, Hachiko Square to Moyai Statue, and Shibuya Mark City. You can get login details at the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre or at the information desks of the department stores mentioned above. Note that you need to present a non-Japanese passport to get login info. tinyurl.com/TOTshibuya-wifi Ginza Free Wi-Fi (G Free): Proud to be the longest free wi-fi zone on a single street in Japan, Ginza-dori lets you connect to the internet with G Free while shopping up a storm. tinyurl.com/TOTginza-wifi Asakusa Free Wi-Fi: Asakusa has upped its game too, announcing in August 2015 that it’s offering free public wi-fi in collaboration with NTT Communications. tinyurl.com/ TOTasakusa-wifi

Upload and go Finally, you can keep your followers updated in real time

Going underground? Welcometo tothe theworldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 67 For

Getting Around

Where to snap a selfie Out of interesting Instagram ideas? Here are 10 photo-taking spots in Tokyo that are bound to garner a few likes. Words Joyce Lam

Getting Around

1. I ♡ Kabukicho sign Don’t judge this area by all the host clubs and their male employees sporting long bleached hair and shiny suits. Okay, do judge it, but also embrace it. Kabukicho is full of interesting restaurants, bars and sights and it’s hugely entertaining just to walk around and immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Tokyo’s red-light district. We officially declare the ‘I ♡ Kabukicho’ sign a hot selfie spot. Hayashi Building, 1-14-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 2. ‘Reflectscape’ art installation You’re mistaken if you think this is just another random sculpture. Look into the installation’s mirror and you’ll find yourself journeying up a flying highway to the top of Tokyo Skytree. Named ‘Reflectscape’, the artwork is designed by art students as part of the Geidai Taito Sumida Sightseeing Art Project. Find it at Oyokogawa Shinsui Park, just a few minutes’ walk from Tokyo Skytree Station. 3-4 Azumabashi, Sumida (HonjoAzumabashi or Tokyo Skytree stations). 3. Nanako cat statue If you’ve had enough of the waiting crowds around Shibuya’s Hachiko statue, or if you’re just more of a cat lover, you can now meet your friends at Nanako instead. Found just in front of Muji at the Shibuya Seibu department store, this maneki-neko (Japan’s famous ‘beckoning cat’) statue is just as lovable as her pup friend and makes for a more unique photo. 21-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 4. Tokyu Plaza mirror entrance Sitting on the corner where Tokyo’s two fashion meccas meet, Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku (‘Omohara’ for short) is as unmissable as your selfie will be. Designed by architect Hiroshi Nakamura, the shopping complex’s kaleidoscope-like mirror entrance makes the perfect backdrop. 4-30-3 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 5. Tokyo Tower glass floor Tokyo Tower is ironically most beautiful when viewed at night from other observatories. But there’s one very special spot inside the tower that creates a very vertigo-inducing image. Stand on the glass floor on the main observatory deck and say cheese! 4-2-8 Shibakoen, Minato (Kamiyacho Station).

6. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building This building wins major points for having a completely free observatory, but stop for a pic even before you board the elevator – the spectacular edifice was designed by the legendary Kenzo Tange and deserves a spot in your Tokyo photo album. 2-8-1 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku (Nishi-Shinjuku, ShinjukuSanchome, Minami-Shinjuku Stations). 7. NS Building atrium Located right next the Metropolitan Government Building, the NS Building is a mixed office and commercial skyscraper with a spacious atrium in the middle that allows natural light to fall through, creating a beautiful geometric pattern that’s calling for you to capture it. 2-4-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Nishi-Shinjuku, ShinjukuSanchome, Minami-Shinjuku Stations). 8. Atago Shrine ‘staircase of success’ This shrine sits on a small hill in the business district of Toranomon and is popular among salarymen for its long and steep stone staircase, also known as Shussei no Ishiden (‘Stone Staircase of Success’). It might take a few huffs and puffs to reach the top, but when you get there, lie on your back with your head facing towards the bottom of the stairs and shoot a headshot with the steep steps dropping down behind you. 1-5-3 Atago, Minato (Kamiyacho Station). 9. Hanayashiki amusement park Housing some of Japan’s oldest rollercoasters and a haunted house, this amusement park was founded in 1883. Though most of the rides are nostalgic rather than thrilling, we recommend the revolving Bee Tower for a good snapshot – be sure to get Tokyo Skytree in the background. 2-28-1 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 10. With the Hanmyo Project on Takeshita-dori Venture into the heart of kawaii culture where pink wigs, puffy miniskirts and lacedup Lolita costumes are the norm. Go on a Sunday for the chance to take a selfie with members of the cosplay performance group Hanmyo Project – specifically Kadocchi, who is reportedly the unofficial icon of Harajuku. You won’t have any problems spotting him. 1 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station).

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Getting Around

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[TOHOKU UPDATE]

Picking up the pieces The Nozomi Project transforms broken pottery left in the wake of the 2011 tsunami into beautiful items of jewellery. Words Nick Narigon

our months after the northeast coastal town of Ishinomaki was battered by the March 11, 2011 tsunami, New Jersey native Sue Plumb Takamoto picked through the rubble of the decimated homes, discarding soggy family photos and collecting broken pieces of pottery. ‘It felt unreal in a lot of ways. It was worse than I imagined,’ says Takamoto, who was doing volunteer cleanup work with an organisation called Be One. ‘When you walk into a house where a family used to live, you see a life that has been devastated.’ One year after the disaster, Sue and her husband Eric relocated with their four children to a temporary home in a damaged neighbourhood in the once-thriving fishing community. Today, the Takamotos and their team operate the Nozomi Project in Ishinomaki, a corporation that employs mothers to create

jewellery from shattered pottery. Ishinomaki suffered the most fatalities, and 50 percent of the town was flooded. The first floor of the local school was ravaged by waves, and the second and third floors served as emergency shelters. Takamoto accompanied her children by bus to the temporary school in the mountains every morning. While waiting at the bus stop, Takamoto became friends with other mothers. ‘They were the ones helping me. I was like, “What day do we need gym clothes?” and these moms were great,’ she says. ‘They helped this crazy foreigner.’ Takamoto learned that, during the tsunami, one mother was forced to abandon her pet poodle, who sadly later died. Another mom lost her sisterin-law, who was swept away by the tsunami in

her car two blocks away from home. Takamoto also learned of a Chinese organisation that teaches former prostitutes how to make and sell jewellery. She thought perhaps the mothers of Ishinomaki could do the same thing, using the shards of pottery strewn about town. She ran her thoughts by a local mom and friend, who coincidentally makes jewellery as a hobby, and the idea took hold. ‘That was the impetus I needed,’ says Takamoto. ‘We got these women together, the moms I met at the schoolyard, and friends of ours, and we said let’s come together and figure out how to do this.’ In the summer of 2012, their business plan was put into motion. They invited a professional jeweller from Los Angeles to come and spend 10 days in Ishinomaki to teach their employees. And then, in October of that year, the Nozomi Project opened for business. Sixteen women are now employed as grinders, jewellers and administrators, earning an hourly wage plus holiday time and bonuses. The women name each product line after loved ones. The Nodoka line, for example, is named after the

Product lines are named after loved ones

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Sue and Eric Takamoto, founders of the Nozomi Project

daughter of the worker who lost her poodle. The Rumi line of necklaces is named after the sister-in-law who died in her car. The Nozomi Project has earned a profit in each year of operation, with 20 percent of revenue supporting charities. ‘Our desire three years ago was to create a safe place and a community where women can gain skills and dignity,’ says Takamoto. ‘There have been a lot of bumps in the road, but I have been given an amazing gift to see these women gain confidence, and to witness their joy as the work of their hands is sent across the world.’ For more information, visit nozomiproject.com

15 minutes with… Japan’s first lady Akie Abe shares her thoughts on Tohoku’s recovery and how we can help the area’s revival simply by going skiing. Words Akiko Toya and Yukako Izumi

AKIE ABE PORTRAIT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

arch 2016 marks five years since the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Although reconstruction efforts in Tohoku have picked up pace, it cannot yet be said that Fukushima and the surrounding region are back to the way they were before the disaster. ‘It’s all over the news every time March 11 draws close, but now that five years have passed, people no longer actively think about the issue in their daily lives,’ says Akie Abe, wife of Prime Minister Shinzo Abe. Abe regularly visits Tohoku where she works with several reconstruction-related projects. ‘The current situation is very different from the early stages, when volunteers were clearing debris and so on. Now, rather than think what we can do for the people of Tohoku, we need to think about what we can do together with them.’ With this idea in mind, an event titled ‘I’ll go skiing even if you don’t take me’ was held in Yamagata Prefecture’s Zao in spring 2015. The title is a reference to the ’80s movie ‘Take Me Skiing’, which was a hit during Japan’s ‘bubble economy’ era and inspired a ski boom across the country. The event’s name may be intentionally comical, but it also represents Abe’s strong connection to the slopes and how she believes skiing could contribute to Tohoku’s recovery. As a young girl, Abe could often be found on the slopes with her family, and after graduating from high school she worked part-time at a ski resort, developing a still-burning passion for skiing. So she was there during the boom and has witnessed first-hand how ski resorts have begun struggling as business has declined over the last few years. ‘When working at a ski resort, you can do

First lady of the slopes, Akie Abe

farming in summer, but when that option is taken away [because there’s not enough business], you have no choice but to leave during the low season. Zao is in Yamagata and escaped damage from the earthquake, but it is still in the Tohoku region and can serve as an example of how revitalising a ski resort can lead to the entire area around it becoming more active.’ This is demonstrated in the fact that event staff includes Zao locals, with everyone preparing and managing the event together. This spring, the event returns for its second edition and takes place over three days. In addition to ski lessons by top coaches, participants can look forward to snow forest exploration and hot spring tours, making the occasion worthwhile even for non-skiers. And if you’re like Abe, who says she enjoys a good après-ski scene, you’ll be happy to hear that ’80s parties will be held in the evenings. You can also sip Tohoku sake inside a huge snow hut at the Kamakura Bar, and

enjoy the opening festival featuring delicacies by chef Tsutomu Ochiai of La Bettola (‘toughest reservation in Japan’) fame, as well as creations by Hiroki Yoshitake, who runs the Michelin-starred Sola in Paris. When people who live outside of Tohoku think about what they can do to help the region, they tend to mostly consider the most profound solutions, but Abe tells us to relax a little: ‘If you can go, then just go. You don’t have to do anything specific – just head over and meet the people.’ She also points out that ‘outsiders’, including foreigners, may be able to view Tohoku’s charms from an objective point of view and therefore may be better than locals at letting others know about the area. She emphasises that you don’t always have to keep the disaster squarely in mind when going to Tohoku: just visiting the region, perhaps going skiing or on a hot spring holiday, could help push the area’s recovery in a positive direction. Event details at ski80s.jp (Japanese only).

Just visiting the region can help

Zao ski resort in Yamagata Prefecture

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Lost in Harajuku? Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

s the shopping district that symbolises Japanese pop culture, Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area. To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi. But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as karaoke. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up Mt Fuji artwork and quirky items such as sushi socks and daruma (traditional Japanese doll) erasers. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily 10am-6pm.

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

ime Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts. We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Ise-Shima or Sapporo in Hokkaido – both make for a great mini getaway.

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All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) and more restaurants

Barefoot and fancy free At home in Japan

In Tokyo, your home is like a spa Takeo Funabiki offers an intro to the regenerative powers of Japanese abodes

IMAGE: AIR7650/PIXTA

hen staying at hotels abroad, I have occasionally come across entire families casually riding the elevator wearing nothing but their bathrobes. Looking like they’re heading to the beach, these smiling folks in slippers make me, the quiet character occupying part of the same small space, feel like the world’s been turned upside down. Allow me to explain… The Japanisation of the luxury hotel Back in the day, hotels in Japan were places where locals learned the ways of ‘civilisation’: warnings such as ‘please don’t wear your yukata in the hallways’ or ‘please don’t wear sunglasses in the lobby’ hinted at the level of manners expected. This was in complete contrast to ryokans (traditional-style inns), where people wear bathrobes when heading back from the bathing area, enter the banquet hall barefoot, sit cross-legged, down drinks without inhibition and act a little disorderly. Bathrobe-wearing guests strolling around the fancy hotels of New York and Paris appeared for a reason – that is, because every luxury hotel

worth the moniker now places great emphasis on its spa facilities. I understand that this marketing strategy has been wildly successful in the West. To put it in simple terms, luxury hotels all across the world can be said to be ‘turning Japanese’, as they move in the direction of the onsen ryokan. The home is a spa I’ve come to realise that even the ordinary Japanese home has, in a sense, always been a ‘spa’. The first thing you do when entering one of our abodes is take off your shoes and get ready to relax as the three pillars of a Japanese home are bath, food and sleep (preferably in that order). So you can imagine how we felt when, back in the ’60s, we watched American family dramas on Japanese TV and saw stylish folks engaging in sophisticated conversation around the dinner table, wearing their Sunday best and – pointedly – wearing shoes indoors. We lacked confidence in our relatively

simple lifestyle back then. Looking back, we should have seen through the strangeness of such behaviour – after all, did those people on the TV shows really feel ‘at home’? From my point of view as a cultural anthropologist, homes really should be like spas. Because they’re places of regeneration. Firstly, it’s where the next generation of humans is conceived. Secondly, the home is where the body is revitalised through rest. With this perspective in mind, it’s quite apparent that scenes depicting people taking off their shoes at home, dozing off on a couch, sitting on the floor, and even getting out of the shower with nothing but a towel wrapped around their waist are on the increase in Western movies. Being barefoot has clearly become in vogue. A while back, intense diplomatic negotiations took place regarding the question of whether or not Queen Elizabeth should take her shoes off while touring a Kyoto temple during her visit to Japan. The reason was

Luxury hotels around the world are “turning Japanese”

that having the Queen show ‘skin’ in public would be an embarrassment to the British – apparently, the monarch only takes her shoes off when bathing or sleeping. I assume that for those who share such royal sensibilities, the entire Japanese household must seem like a bathcome-bedroom. Want to visit a Japanese home? Best try a ryokan So how can a foreign traveller in Tokyo get a taste of such homely pleasures? Japanese people are often said to be hesitant to invite outsiders to their abodes. This is of course due to the fact that Japanese homes are much like personal spas, i.e. private places for relaxation. What’s more, our houses are often rather cluttered, so people tend to be too embarrassed to invite strangers in. Hence, a tourist’s best shot will most likely be a ryokan. At a traditional inn like this, you’ll be able to stroll around barefoot, wear a yukata and enjoy the three pleasures of bath, food and sleep. For our list of Tokyo’s best ryokan, visit tinyurl.com/ TOTryokan

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apan has a baby problem, in that they’re not making enough of them. The country’s declining population is scheduled to bottom out some time in the next 50 years unless the good folks in the bureaucracy figure out a way to raise the GNBP (gross national bedroom productivity). But we’d like to humbly suggest that the solution is staring them right in the face: get people to eat more Japanese food again! The Japanese diet has become increasingly Westernised in the postwar period, which is a shame because native dishes aren’t just good for your health, they’re good for your private life too…

You know you’re in Tokyo when… You eat turtle to get your mojo back

SUPPON

A delicacy in East Asia, Japanese suppon has long been associated with wealth, excess and virility. One reason for this is because lords and nobles would often consume it before their sexy time. Another reason is the turtle head’s phallic shape. Despite being known mainly as a ‘man’s dish’, suppon is gaining popularity amongst female diners who appreciate its high collagen content for their skin. History aside, modern science has shown that suppon has an enormous amount of vitamins and minerals, to the point that suppon blood is actually a very healthy beverage. So now you know what to suggest on your next date with Vampire-san.

SEAWEED

GREEN TEA

Ever wondered what keeps Japanese people going through their 10-hour workdays and 100year lifespans? There’s a reason why cups of green tea are ubiquitous in all Japanese social settings: it’s some of the healthiest stuff you can put in your body. Chock full of the super healthy antioxidant catechin, nutritionists love the stuff – and so should anyone who wants a healthy sex life. Catechin helps your blood circulate to all parts of your body, and if you don’t know why that’s important for fun in bed, you might want to read a different magazine.

The word ‘seaweed’ doesn’t sound sexy, we admit. Probably the ‘weed’ bit. But as is often the case in romantic situations, things are not always what they seem. Many Japanese people eat seaweed every day (for breakfast!) and it’s an easy way to pack more nutrients into your diet while keeping the calorie count low. Nori, wakame and kombu all have their own benefits: from reducing flatulence to helping regulate hormones. Slip a sheet or two alongside your next sunny-side-up breakfast and reap the benefits.

MUGI BARLEY

Japanese barley, or mugi, may be small in stature but it packs a punch. Mugi is a great source of fibre, which helps keep your blood sugar levels under control. Why is this important? Left to run amok, spikes of high blood sugar levels wreak havoc on the nerves in your more sensitive areas – and we don’t need to tell you what a lack of sensitivity means, do we? Mugi is also a great source of zinc, an essential ingredient in keeping sperm count up. Sounds like it’s time to switch from hakumai (white rice) to mugi gohan (white rice mixed with barley).

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo… Spring has sprung!

Possibly the prettiest season in Tokyo, this is the best time for cherry blossom strolls and park lounging.

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Available across Tokyo from April

WORDS: JOHN PAKARNIAN, ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

Sexy times

(SOFTSHELL TURTLE)

UNAGI

Long, meaty and slippery… Just looking at a Japanese eel might be enough to get some people in the mood. Of course, it’s not about size but what’s inside that counts. Eels are rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B12, D and E, which means they’ll help your body get a jump on just about any problem. They’re also rich in omega-3, which can help head off diabetes, an important consideration in the land of mountains of white rice and nama biiru (draught beer). Sold in sushi shops, eel shops, powdered form and as special Unagi Pie baked goods, Japanese eel is truly worthy of the ‘Engrish’ catch copy commonly printed on eel crackers: ‘a snack for nights’.

Issue 9: The Royal Wagyu

Articles inside

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Tohoku Update

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