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Hair & Make-up Trends 2019 The Suncare Market Breakthroughs & Challenges
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Editor In Chief & Publisher Ritoo Jhha
EDITORIAL
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Features Editor Isha Gakhar Editorial Coordinator Rakhi Jerly
COnTRIbuTORs Meher Castelino
as see it!
ART Designer Raghab Panda MEDIA & EvEnTs Marketing Executive K. Nanda Kumar (South) Distribution Real Fortune Life Marketing and Services (East) GM. Finance & Administration Ashish Jha Administrative Exective Harvinder Solanki Legal & Corporate Affairs Atul Jha (Manu Law Associates) Finance & HR Consultant Sarwar Raza (Legislegal)
Dear Friends
bEAuTé EspACE MEDIA pvT LTD
2019 has exhausted half of its months - and here we are with yet another dynamic issue that delves into seasonal trends and the biggest industry developments. Looking back at the trends born on the ramps and red carpets so far - our industry gurus round-up the trending hair and makeup looks that are fast trickling down to the high street - social media influence makes it seemless. The experts agree - trends are no longer decided by the fashion capitals alone. We are excited to present “Tori”, Hairdressing collection par excellence that’s a blend of great fashion and hairstyling and photographic brilliance - a showcase by three-time New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year, Danny Pato. Continuing the new series on woman achievers, we have more inspirational stories that light the way for modern women, including the undying spirit of Laxmi Aggarwal - a true warrior who has achieved commendable heights in bringing the plight of acid-attack survivors into the limelight. Our market analysis introduces you to some breakthrough sun care products, while exclusive interviews with international artists are sure to fill you up on the latest buzz. Also, don’t miss industry veteran Nalini Naegamvala’s take on malpractice of talented employee poaching in the salon space. Do send in your feedback to me - editor@beauteespace.net! Happy Reading!!
Ritoo Jhha, Editor in Chief @beautycaravan
@rjhha
@ritoojhha
New Delhi | A-2, 2nd Floor, Greater Kailash Enclave-II, New Delhi 110 048, India. Tel: +91 11 4132 4010 Mumbai | 71, Ganga Tower, A wing, 202, 2nd Floor, Tilaknagar, Mumbai - 400089, Maharashtra, India, Mobile: +91 9619544787 Chandigarh | The Pioneer, SCO 61,1st Floor,Sector-20-C, Dakshin Marg, Chandigarh-160020, India Ph: 0172-4603847, 08427011004 www.beauteespace.net
Publisher/CEO Deborah Carver Vice President/CFO Mindy Rosiejka Executive Editor Alyson Osterman
Owner Beauté Espace Media Pvt Ltd. printer and publisher Ritoo Jhha on the behalf of Beauté Espace Media Pvt Ltd. Printed in Print Works, C-94, Okhla Phase-1, New Delhi-110020, India and Published at Beauté Espace Media Pvt Ltd. A-2, 2nd Floor, Greater Kailash Enclave-II, New Delhi 110048. Editor: Ritoo Jhha. Copyright © 2012 by Creative Age Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Beauty Launchpad® is a registered trademark of Creative Age Communications, Inc. 7628 Densmore Avenue Van Nuys, CA 914062042. The trademarks, trade dress and copyrighted contents of Beauty Launchpad® are used by Beaute Espace Media Pvt. Ltd. pursuant to license.
CONTENTS Off the Shelf 42
On The Cover
Red Carpet 44 Celeb Talk 46 Skincare 47 Fragrance 48 Body Art 50 Special Feature 52
TORI Photographer: Mara Sommer; Art Director/Fashion Design/Hair: Danny Pato; Products: Davines and GHD; Illustrator: Kelly Thompson; Stylist: Rachel Morton; Make-up Artist: Kiekie Stanners
News Updates 16
Quick Updates on What’s Happening in the World of Beauty
What’s New in Beauty: the Latest in Skincare & Make-up Cannes you Spot the trends Undefeated & Undone Laxmi Aggarwal Cleanse your Skin for a Healthy Glow Uncovering Fragrance Journeys Masterstroke Of Captain Marvels & Wonder Women
Business Market Analysis 56
Regulars
Beauty
Interview 58
the Suncare Market Breakthroughs & Challenges the Effervescence in Pakistan Beauty Industry
Industry Speak 60
Poaching A Challenge for Salon Business
Event Preview 62
Beauty Meets Business trends
Hair Preview 22 Colour 23 Solutions 24
Hair at this Moment: Get All the Latest Updates of Hair Industry! Get a Custom French Balayage with L’Oréal Professionnel Dialight Experience Shiny, Straight Hair with MAtrIx
Brand Profile 26
Paul Mitchell talking trends & Education
Trend Report 28
#trendingNow
In Focus 32 Cover Feature 34 Interview 39 Profile 40
the Art of Latte tori Kumi Ito: Journey of a Creative Genius! Play Salon’s Biak Lun Clinches Firstrunner Up Spot at L’Oréal Professionnel Style & Colour trophy’19
Masterclass 63
Hindi Supplement
GLOBAL NEWS
Now
EWS
10 Trends To supporT susTainable beauTy
Over 140 senior executives from the beauty industry convened in New York City for the 10th North American edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit from 8 - 10 May 2019. Organized by Ecovia Intelligence - a research, consulting, and training company that focuses on global ethical product industries - the event is part of an international series of summits that take place in major geographic regions of the world. The next edition will be Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Europe, scheduled for 4 - 6 November 2019 in Paris. Some of the key takeaways from the recent edition held at Central Park are:
Quick updates on what’s happening in the world of beauty trafficking, child labour, discrimination and land grabs. Dee-Ann Prather from Down Under Enterprises spoke about traceability in their supply chains and the benefits of blockchain technology. Wide Range of Green Materials New sources of green ingredients are emerging. DuPont created its Genencare® OSMS BA material from food side streams. Genomatica is creating butylene glycol from plant sugars, whilst Aprinnova is making squalane from sugarcane. Details of how plant cell technology is being utilized to produce active ingredients were also discussed.
Packaging Innovations With growing consumer awareness of plastic pollution, the beauty industry is facing pressure to reduce its packaging impacts. Several examples of innovative packaging solutions were presented at the summit such as Seed Phytonutrients’ compostable bottle made from postconsumer paper and InnerBottle’s new zero-waste packaging technology. The way forward appears to be innovation rather than incrementalism measures. Consumer Impacts In his opening keynote, Colin Beavan called for us to be more aware of the impacts we create in our everyday lives. The influential writer and internet blogger shared his own personal experience in trying to create zero impacts for one year. According to Beavan, we should not just reduce impacts, but also create positive impacts such as growing plants/trees/vegetables and volunteering. Scrutiny of Supply Chains Raw material supply chains are becoming increasingly scrutinized for environmental and social risks. Verisk Maplecroft Research showed that shea butter, silk, vanilla, and cocoa are cosmetic ingredients with some of the highest social risks like human 16 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
size fits all’ does not work considering sustainable has so many facets. The sentiment was echoed by Enoch Palmer from the design agency CASE which helps brands in product design and communications. Green Packaging Materials Andrew Dent from Material ConneXion highlighted the issue with existing packaging materials: less than 5% of plastics are recycled in the US. He called for brands to look at green materials so they can prepare for a circular economy. Examples were given of recycled materials, compostable packaging, and recent innovations. Bio-engineered solutions on the horizon involve algae, fungi and bacteria. New Business Models TerraCycle showed how brands can move away from single-use packaging via its new Loop shopping platform. Described as a ‘circular shopping platform’, Loop enables packaging to be returned to brands and reused. Loop made its debut in the US this month; partners include P&G, Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive, Walgreens and Kroger.
Look Beyond Organic Diana Martin from the Rodale Institute called for farmers to adopt regenerative agricultural systems. The new Regenerative Organic Certification adds soil health, fair trade, and animal welfare to existing organic farming practices. The new scheme currently has 21 pilots worldwide and is backed by leading operators, such as Dr Bronner’s Magic Soaps and Patagonia. Creative Solutions A number of speakers suggested creativity is required to resolve major sustainability challenges. Molly Rowan Hamilton from Pearlfisher urged beauty companies to design sustainability into their brands. According to Molly, ‘one-
Natural & Organic Cosmetics According to The Benchmarking Company, 68% of American females purchase natural & organic beauty products, up from 49% in 2008. Health reasons are the primary factor, cited by 73% of buyers. The adoption rates are expected to continue to rise as consumer demographics change. Create Marketing Experiences The Millennials and Gen Z now represent half of the American consumers. According to Sourabh Sharma from FIG Or Out, these growing influential consumers expect sustainability to be a core value of companies. He called for brands to create marketing experiences for these consumers. Winners in the digital age are likely to be brands which utilize social media, deliver clear communications, and create a brand/product story.
elizabeTH arden ropes in ninG cHanG as asia brand aMbassador Taiwanese actress Ning Chang has been announced as the first Asia Brand Ambassador for Elizabeth Arden’s skincare category. An exemplary modern-day woman, actress and philanthropist, Chang is also multilingual - speaking Mandarin, Taiwanese, English, and German - and is a law graduate of the National Central University. In her new role with Elizabeth Arden, Ning will bring awareness to the brand’s skincare franchises through advertising campaigns, with a strong focus on Elizabeth Arden’s digital strategy and engagement in Asia. “I am very proud to be a part of the Elizabeth Arden family, moreover as I have been using the products for many years, which makes this partnership that much more special. I have the utmost assurance in the brand’s high-quality products and I happily recommend them to all of my friends. I am excited to work as a partner with the Elizabeth Arden team to share the creative innovations and history of the brand with women near and far,” shared Ning Chang. “Ning possesses an effortless, heartfelt personality, and there is a quiet yet strong elegance in her, a type of beauty that resonates well with women around the world, and particularly with women in Asia. Her sincere attitude exemplifies the ideals of our founder. Like Elizabeth Arden, Ning’s attitude towards strong leadership, determination and spirit make her the perfect woman to represent the brand and engage with our Asian consumers. We believe this partnership will connect the brand’s commitment to innovation and quality of life while inspiring Asian women on the relentless pursuit of beauty and betterment, which Elizabeth Arden once said is the birthright of every woman,” said Ava Huang, Global General Manager, Elizabeth Arden.
Global Haircare MarkeT To sTeadily rise aT 3% caGr With the introduction of new hair care products and a rise in demand for lustrous hair, global haircare market is anticipated to rise steadily at a CAGR of 3% during the forecast period of 2016 to 2024. Progressing at this rate, the market is anticipated to rise from its initial valuation of US$ 81.3 bn to reach a value of US$ 105.3 bn in 2024.
Together, Ning and the brand expects to leverage their respective platforms to share and connect with women across Asia and encourage a new generation to discover the brand and its timeless values.
According to a report by Transparency Market Research, the global haircare market is gaining traction with the introduction of new products and a rise in demand for lustrous hair. With a highly consolidated vendor landscape consisting of numerous international and local manufacturers, the industry’s key companies such as Amka Products (Pty) Ltd., Avon Products Inc., Revlon Inc., L’Oréal S.A., and Unilever plc. are focusing on research and development activities to expand their revenue share. Among the product categories, the shampoo segment is anticipated to generate the highest revenue in the market. While geographically, Asia Pacific perceived to hold supremacy over the market on account of rising urbanization and high demand from emerging countries such as China and India. Air pollution is one of the leading causes of hair damage and related diseases leading to hair loss. Consequently, a global rise in the level of pollution has contributed to the market’s growth, encouraging the manufactures to formulate new products offering enhanced results. Rising disposable incomes in emerging economies and urbanization have been another factor. There is a high demand for hair care products from the young generation and the cosmetic industry is no longer driven by women alone. There is also a high demand for hair care products from the male population. 06.19
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INDIAN NEWS
Cosmoprof IndIa mumbaI’19 ConCludes The future of the Indian cosmetic industry is safe in the hands of innovative businesses and enterprising professionals — proves the inaugural edition of Cosmoprof India, which concluded with resounding success after three-days of the exhibition, networking, on-stage presentations, indepth talks and more. Held in Mumbai at the Bombay Exhibition Centre from 12 - 14 July 2019, the well-organised and well-received event saw over 7,429 professionals walk into the venue - a significant growth as compared to 3,898 attendees at the preview edition held last September. Also, 237 exhibiting companies from 23 countries and regions took part in this edition, compared to 107 exhibitors at the 2018 preview. Cosmoprof India has hosted the best of local and international companies for varied sectors in the industry such as - ingredients and raw materials, machinery, OEM, contract manufacturing and private labels, primary and secondary packaging, service providers, finished products (divided into Perfumery and Cosmetics, Beauty Salon and Spa, Hair, Nail) and Natural & Organic. Country pavilions from Italy, USA and South Korea were also set up on the show floor. Over 100 top buyers have been invited to the event, as part of the Buyer Program especially retailers and salon owners from the main Indian states, as well as key markets for the local cosmetics industry. The eight seminars of CosmoTalks 20 international speakers and 800 participants. At Cosmoprof Onstage, selected exhibiting companies presented live demos of their products and services. Cosmoprof India Awards rewarded exhibiting companies that are investing in research and innovation. The next edition of Cosmoprof India is scheduled from 2 to 4 September 2020.
bblunT salon #27 open aT four bunGaloWs, mumbaI BBlunt Salon chain led by Adhuna Bhabani launched their 27th Salon at Four Bungalows in Andheri, Mumbai. This is the 10th BBlunt Salon to be opened in Mumbai. Housed on the first floor of a busy locale, the salon offers ten hair stations, two manicure & pedicure pods, a beauty room, a hair spa room, and one consultation room. Speaking on the occasion, Adhuna Bhabani, Founder and Creative Director, BBLUNT said, “Mumbai has always been special for us, with our first ever salon launch here in Kemps Corner in 2004. After having launched 26 salons across the country, being back in Mumbai and opening at Four Bungalows is a great feeling indeed! At BBLUNT it is our constant endeavour to provide the best service possible for our guests, and broadening our network of salons allows us to offer that great experience to many more people.” Spoorthy Shetty, CEO, BBLUNT added, “We at BBLUNT are happy to launch our 10th salon in Mumbai with a passionate and dynamic franchise partner, Ruchika Pasricha. BBLUNT has consistently focused on quality: with a great location, highly trained experts and a strong product portfolio. We are extremely thrilled to open doors to our loyalists in the vicinity as well as new hair aficionados.” 18 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
TonI&Guy’s bIll WaTson ConduCTs masTerClass WITh l’oréal professIonnel Toni&Guy’s International Artistic and Educational Director – Bill Watson, visited India for a 2-Day Masterclass in association with L’Oréal Professionnel. The 2-day masterclass was hosted at the Toni&Guy Hairdressing Academy in New Delhi and was a key collaboration between the two brands to create a benchmark in educational partnerships in the hairdressing industry. Bill shared his wealth of knowledge and expertise in the art of hairdressing with participants from all over north India and inspired them with the latest trends and techniques. With over two decades of association with Toni&Guy, Bill Watson is currently the International Artistic and Educational Director for Toni&Guy Japan and the Southern Hemisphere. He originally started off with Toni&Guy, London back in 1994 and since then has achieved immense success and popularity in the hairdressing industry worldwide. Bill has hosted numerous international shows and seminars for Toni&Guy education in more than 30 countries across the world. Speaking about the importance of education in the future of the industry, Bill Watson shared, “We all work in an incredible industry, which changes daily, so it means education is a constant journey, that needs energy, innovation, collaboration. Allowing ourselves to evolve as fashion and taste changes, means we become part of the industry’s future.”
PURIFYING OXYGENATING MOISTURISERS
INDIAN NEWS
Colorbar makes a mark aT Cosmoprof IndIa 2019 The recently concluded debut edition of Cosmoprof India in Mumbai has raised the bar high for trade events in the Indian beauty industry. With a wide variety of brands and businesses vying to make their presence felt, there were many unique presentations at the exhibition area that offered a complete experience to visitors. Colorbar stood out from the rest with a vibrant display of products and their revamped branding to celebrate 15 years in the industry. Said to be the 3rd largest cosmetic brand in India, Colorbar introduced several interactive opportunities for Cosmoprof India visitors to get to know the brand up close. The branding upgrade reveals a new logo and packaging design, while the stand-out Booth installation was in the form of an Insignia on a raised platform, offering a walkthrough in 4 different zones - Face, Nails, Lips, and Eyes. The brand also introduced its ‘Make your own Lipstick’ project, wherein visitors were encouraged to mix and match shades from a massive Colorbar shade card to create a new shade of their own. There was also a ‘Makeover counter’ with Colorbar Make-up artists and a Lounge set up for other Colorbar experiences. Some of the extensive Colorbar collections displayed at Cosmoprof India include: Sinful Matte Lip Color Range - 24 creamy shades that promise
runo TeChnoloGIes GeT markeT ready Runo Technologies offers a unprecedented solution for the salon & spa business. Runo, a start up incubated at the prestigious T-HUB, at International Institute of Technology Hyderabad, is a CRM application for the salon & spa industry. Principal Product features include -Call management, CRM, Analytics and POS, and is said to increase customer retention by 26% and yield a 245% ROI when properly implemented. The team comprises of young techies with strong experience and includes RajSekhar Pattanaik, Product Head who has extensive telecom and CRM experience of over a decade. He’s also the CEO of PCS Pv, Venkata Sai Vamsi the mobile app expert from IIT Indore, and Vivek Sathvic and Madhusudan from IIT Madras with experience of having launched digital initiatives. 20 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
a soft matte and long-lasting finish. It is said to be infused Sea Fennel Wax to prevent creasing and dryness and does not contain parabens, talc, fragrance or D5. Glitter Me All Collection - An edgy collection of textures and shades in lipsticks, lip gloss, eye shadow, powder, highlighter and blush, conceptualized by Colorbar’s professional makeup artists. 1001 Nail Lacquer Range - A highlight at Cosmoprof India, with the widest palette featuring every colour possible 19 shade families. The nail colours come with a patented ‘Sun Genius’ formula for extended wear and claims to contain Keratin & Calcium for nail strength and Sweet Almond Oil for nourishment.
Tara suTarIa Is bobbI broWn IndIan brand ambassador Bobbi Brown Cosmetics announced its first-ever Indian brand ambassador – Bollywood actress Tara Sutaria. Bobbi Brown is currently available in India across 14 doors, and all Nykaa Luxe and Sephora stores along with an online presence on Myntra, Nykaa, Sephora.nnnow.com, and Shoppers Stop.
Mother’s Day with Blossom Kochhar What better than a salon visit to enjoy Mother’s Day together - Blossom Kochhar Earth to Bottle Spalon - set up the perfect opportunity to make it happen this year. While mom was pampered with a signature anti-ageing facial called ‘Pick Up from Slack’ from Blossom Kochhar Aroma Magic range, I got to relax in the soothing and calm environment of the spalon in Hauz Khas. The facial lasted up to an hour, after which my mom felt relaxed and fresh too. Designed as a green salon, this outlet encourages sustainable beauty with several features that encourage eco-friendly practices such as the natural green walls and recyclable packaging. Their key focus is on people and strives to provide a salon experience with the goodness of nature. — Isha Gakhar
SEAN GODARD | BROOKLYN, NY; PHOTOGRAPHER: RICHARD MONSIEURS; WARDROBE STYLIST: ADAM SNYDER; MAKE-UP ARTIST: DANIEL ADAM
HAIR
Hair / Preview
Hair
What’s new in ad hair-town? Re ore! on to know m
w o n d n a e Her
Easy styling with Mr. Barber Wand With a 9mm Barrel that has 6 temperature settings ranging from 140°C - 220°C, the new Mr. Barber Style Wand is powerful and convenient. It also features a rubberized anti-slip soft touch handle and professional tangle-free 360°C swivel cord that is perfect for the home or salon use. An LED indicator alerts you when the styling wand is turned on and is at the correct temperature. It also has a 60-minute auto-switch off function that helps avoid accidental burns and power wastage. Priced at `4,100, the product is available at Esskay Beauty Resources.
Bid adieu to dully & dry hair L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Nutrifier range is designed to provide effective nourishment to the hair, without weighing it down. Infused with the power of Glycerol and coconut oil in a light weight formula it nourishes the hair and instantly makes it soft and irresistibly smooth. The home care range includes a gentle cleansing shampoo, a creamy hair masque and a never-seen-before ‘Dryness-Defence Balm’ or simply called the ‘DD Balm’. This simple 3-step routine combats rough dry hair and leaves it irresistibly soft with a lingering fragrance of fresh jasmine. Step 1: Nutrifier Cleansing Shampoo (300ml, `635) Step 2: Nutrifier Masque (250ml, `780) Step 3: DD Balm (40ml, `575)
Repair your hair with expert tips by Samay Dutta It can get a bit tedious trying to figure out what active ingredients in hair care solutions address specific issues like dryness, tangles, or split ends. Samay Dutta - Director, Noir Luxury Blow Bar introduces you to some of the tried and tested methods and habits to repair different kinds of hair damage. Deep cleaning Deep cleaning your hair is the initial stride in repairing damage and enhancing hair texture. Shampoo, conditioners, and even the water you use can make hair look loose and dead as well as cause split ends and a frail texture. Use a decent clarifying shampoo to get rid of product buildup and hard water roughness. Try deep cleansing twice a week. 22 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Protect your hair from sun damage Sun damage is one of the biggest perpetrators of hair damage including rough hair and weak ends. If you are not guarding your hair against the sun’s UV rays, now is the time to start this regime. Protect it using a UV protective shampoo and conditioner, followed by an intense hydrating mask to avoid further damage. Try covering your hair with a scarf or cap for better results. Indulge in a hot oil treatment Hot oil treatments are the best cures to infuse some shine and moisture in your dull hair. They are super simple to do right at home. You can apply your favourite hair oil, preferably coconut oil, to clean and
towel-dried hair. Do heat the oil and leave it for 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse out with cool water and shampoo for the best outcome. Trim those split ends Trimming your hair is the key to brighter and smoother hair. Split ends prevent the hair from breathing. Book an appointment after every 2 months for regular trims. Your stylist can simply “dust” the ends to keep your hair strong and un-frayed.
Hair / Colour
Get a Custom French Balayage with
L’Oréal Professionnel
Dialight Glossy luminous looking reflects and vinyl shine guaranteed — trust L’Oréal Professionnel’s Dialight for an on-trend Parisian Cool look that gives natural hair a subtle richness and refreshed shine.
Cool Caramel Balayage Inspired by cool tones of ash-gold & styled to be effortless, the Cool Caramel Balayage look is created with Majirel 6.13 and the new Dialight 9.02.
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his unique acid-gel cream, ammonia free tone-on-tone colour is Ideal for previously coloured or weakened hair and can be used for toning, colour correction and highlights on sensitized hair. The pH acid formula of Dialight, which is close to the natural pH of hair, ensures gentle colour respecting the condition with natural-looking hues that gradually fade away. Dialight is great for offering a colour refresh to top up the vibrancy of colour in between the usual permanent colour services. Fast development also makes it ideal for those who are short of time. With 14 unique shades, get a personalised #FrenchBalayage look that is perfect for all year round.
Cool Mocha Balayage Designed with the versatile INOA Mocha shade of 7.18 and the new Dialight 9.13, the Cool Mocha Balayage captures the quintessential Parisian Café Mocha.
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Hair / Solutions
Experience
Shiny, Straight Hair with Matrix Get manageable straight hair with permanent straightening services by MaTrIx.
S
ummers and selfies sound like a good idea unless you are reminded of frizzy locks refusing to be tamed down. Women often find themselves spending hours on styling, just to have humidity and heat wreak havoc on it. Sometimes even an army of products can turn out to be insufficient - hence, there arises the need for a fail-safe service that gives women the hair of their dreams - sleek and manageable. This is where MaTrIx steps in with two permanent in-salon straightening services - Advanced Shaping Service by Opti.Sculpt and Natural-Soft Straight Service by Opti.Straight - to enhance the beauty of your clients’ hair and leave it straight and smooth.
24  Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Advanced Shaping Service by Opti.Sculpt: Nurture your clients’ hair with the advanced Shaping Service by Opti.Sculpt and achieve lustrous locks this summer. Powered by Cera-Sculpt technology with Elastin, Collagen and Ceramides, the service leaves hair sleek with movement and nourishment. It also has a breakthrough, low-odour formula that ensures a comfortable salon experience for both you and the client. The Advanced Shaping Service by Opti.Sculpt comes in three strengths depending on hair type – Normal – for fine to medium hair Resistant – for thick hair, very curly hair Sensitised – for brittle or chemically treated hair
Natural-Soft Straight Service by Opti.Straight: Want to give your clients natural-looking straight hair without the worry of breakage? - Try the Natural-Soft Straight Service by Opti.Straight. It features the unique Auto-Control Technology that prevents hair breakage by making sure that it is not over-processed during the service. Manage your clients’ mane in style and forget the worries of frizzy hair with this permanent anti-breakage straightening system. The Natural-Soft Straight Service is available in two different strengths depending on hair type: Normal – for fine to medium, chemically treated hair Resistant – for thick, seriously curly hair
HoMe-cARe RAnge: For long-lasting results, the best in-salon services need to be followed up by the right home-care regimen. MaTrIx offers the Opti.Care Smooth Straight range, a specialist post-straightening haircare range designed to maintain the longevity of straightening services. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and serum.
*These services are available at all MATRIX salons across India. 06.19
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Hair / Brand Profile
Paul Mitchell Talking Trends & Education An exclusive chat with international hair experts on trends, tips, and more.
What are the colour palettes that men prefer? In America, I work with a lot of baseball players, athletes, and singers and I have been using different pastels like a nice beautiful blonde, white hair, or grey silver hair. Most importantly, as they age, they colour their hair to cover the grey and keep looking younger - that was not the case before.
are beards here to stay?
J
Yes. Growing a big beard was a trend in America and then it started to die down. Now, it’s back! I see beards as a concealer - just like makeup for women. It covers a lot of flaws on a guys face and can make him look a lot manlier by enhancing their features. So, beards are here to stay for a very long time.
Jason Reyes International Trainer John Paul Mitchell systems Jason Reyes started cutting hair as a teenager and began his career behind the chair while attending college. Reyes credits cutting hair with some of the industry’s best for making him stronger and more ambitious. Throughout his time with Paul Mitchell, he has continued his education, been published in magazines, appeared in DVDs for Paul Mitchell Schools’ “Cutting System”, and has been instrumental in the development of a barbering curriculum. Jason spoke to BL about his journey, views on Indian hairdressers and more.
What do you think about the Indian hair industry?
ohn Paul Mitchell Systems recently sent two of their international trainers — Jason Reyes and Hope Schiller — to India, to interact with the Indian salon and hair industry. Beauty Launchpad spoke to them about the latest trends and their journey with the brand. Manish Dialani of Lewanna, who is the official distributor of the brand in India, also shared their plans for the ongoing year and how education would play a major role in it.
How did your association with John Paul Mitchell systems begin? It started about 14 years ago. Paul Mitchell has about 110 schools across the US and I began by working as an instructor and then, moved on to designing their perfumes. Later, as an artist, I started focussing on great hair and that took me around the world to do hair shows. But what attracted me to the brand was its culture — it was important to me to be part of a company that was all about giving back and helping each other.
People are a bit more open to hairstyling; before it was all about the silky, smooth, straight look which has certainly changed in the women’s world. Same for colour people are no more conservative and you can even see older people sporting pinks or blue hair. For the gentleman, there has been What is your UsP in hair? tremendous growth in hair trends — I I do everything — cut, colour hair, barbering. But what I like to do most is cutting hair, for the have been working in this market for 20 reason that there is no gender to it. It could be years and it is safe to say that guys are now more aware of themselves. Earlier, a a little boy or a lady — it doesn’t matter. guy wouldn’t have been particular about a shave or a haircut but now they are What is trending in haircuts? concerned about the skin, beard and hair. Right now, what I see is a lot of texture like Shorter and cleaner looks are definitely in. the wave has made it and so has the bob. 26 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
When I got here, I went out and a gentleman came up to me and said that he follows me on Instagram. That was a surprise - I am from America and somebody recognized me in India! What I saw and learnt was that Indian hair professionals are hungry for education. Also, they are very humble and accepting - it’s something I have noticed about the Indian culture. Like, we were working at the salon and everyone was helping out - there is no unhealthy competition.
What would be your advice for Indian hair professionals? Have patience — a lot is based on motor skills so the more you practice, the easier it becomes. Surround yourself with people who influence you to be better. Educating yourself in many different areas like business and economics will help you in opening and managing a business. I think you start to get bored when you stop educating yourself. A lot of times, we are seeking only trends - what I tell people is that trends are what you create. Nowadays, social media is a great platform to get free education and you have to practice too. I always focus on the quality of my look and not the quantity. Never compromise quality for quantity and always do your best.
Which is your favourite Paul Mitchell product? The tingling clean sensation of Tea Tree Special Shampoo® is incomparable to any other shampoo I have used. It the one we sell the most - a bottle every four seconds.
ManIsH DIalanI Managing Director - lewanna
What are the brand’s plans for the current year? 2019 looks promising and we are looking at expanding our distribution further and launching new products of the brand John Paul Mitchell systems. We also have plans to launch a partner salons program and top class education programs in India.
so, the focus will be on education? Education will be the key strategy in 2019 and we are setting up programs and facilities of international standards to support this.
What do you think of the haircare market in India? The professional hair care market in India is growing rapidly and Indian consumers are well-educated on all top global trends. Since we are now dealing with a matured industry, a win will only come when you have a clear strategy and a long term vision.
HoPe scHIlleR International Trainer John Paul Mitchell systems While still in high school, Hope Schiller received her license at the age of 17 and was managing a salon by 19. Her career with Paul Mitchell began around the same time and she is now an International Trainer for the brand.
Which trends are we likely to see in autumn/winter 2019?
How is the industry different today compared to when you started?
They are humble, kind, and always willing to learn new things. They also treat their clients with respect. My advice would be - Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and experiment a lot.
I feel the industry is more respected and professional now. There is more opportunity to continue your education, business and, overall, more opportunity for growth.
What about the industry today excites you the most? The creative freedom.
What are the trends in cut and colour right now? The ongoing trends are definitely about reviving the retro style with subtle but prominent waves and bobs.
With the advent of autumn, we can expect a few darker shades in hair colours.
Which hair colours are in? Anything pastel or white.
What do you think of Indian hairdressers? any advice for them?
What are your favourite Paul Mitchell products? MarulaOil Rare Oil Style Perfecting Serum, Rare Oil 3-in-1 Styling Cream, Perfecting Hairspray and the Rare Oil Dry Mist. The hydration, shine, protection, manageability and flexibility give me the ability to effortlessly style with beautifully healthy end results. I have also been loving the new Invisiblewear and Volume Whip. 06.19
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Hair / Trend Report
Nitin Manchanda
Russell Eaton Salons
Creative Head Wella Professionals
#TrendingNow As 2019 rolls into the halfway mark, beauty and hair trends are trickling down to the end consumer — experts jot down their thoughts on what’s in, what’s out, and what to look out for. — By Isha Gakhar & Rakhi Jerly Top Hair Trends for 2019 Blunt bobs Blunt fringes Textured pixie Balayage & contour Melissa Hughe Flecks of colour – lilac/ Technical Head - India blue, blends Schwarzkopf Professional of warm & cool tones. Bejewelled, pearl & statement hair clips. Thick padded velvet hairbands. Red Carpet / Ramp Inspirations Big hair, big volume 28 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Products to Match Trends Vario Blond Silver shampoo IGORA pastel - chocolates & ash Osis+ Grip Session Label Flex & Fix Pro Hair Hacks for Travel Use a hydrating leave-in conditioner Protect your hair from UV rays. A soothing scalp treatment is a must to keep the sensitivity at bay. Perfect the top knot to stay fashionable! Fads to Forget Pinstripe highlights Monotone globals
Top Hair Trends for 2019 Trends are no longer dictated by Paris, Milan, and London. There is a massive shift in the world of beauty and fashion as communities on social media are now bigger influencers than the fashion capitals of the world. Colours are characterized by their finish and texture while textures that carry a vintage feel are gaining momentum. Blondes, reds and brunettes are appearing soft, gentle, melted and muted. Techniques that deliver blending of different textures and colours to create a soft natural end look are ruling. The haircuts for this season will showcase soft blended texture with subtle face-framing fringes. Gradation and invisible layering will be some key techniques. Products to Match Trends SP Hydrate Finish Spray leave-in conditioner is an absolute essential to balance the moisture level of the hair. As the trend this season is heading towards a more natural look and easy going hair, the products with mild and medium hold would be preferred. Sebastian Whipped crème, Sebastian Potion 9, Sebastian Drynamic+, Sebastian Shaper Zero Gravity Hair spray would be ideal. Pro Hacks for Travel Colour, straightening or cut — do it around a week before you travel to keep it looking fresh during your vacation. Carry your routine shampoo and conditioning treatments as well as a leave-in conditioner to protect hair from any environmental influence like UV rays or pollution. A suitable styling product to support your hairstyle will be extremely handy during a vacation. Fads to Forget Super clean polished looks
Top Hair Trends for 2019 ‘Less is more’ is the motto for 2019 — both well-groomed, shiny long hair and rough, undone styles are in trend. Long hair is cut to one length and falls loosely over the shoulders, while Texture Sprays brings out its natural structure and movement. Easy going styles like the messy buns are perfect for everyday wear - casual and unpretentious, it’s the most natural and an uncomplicated version of the updo. The inspiration comes from models backstage — after a runway show, they quickly twist up their long locks and pile it atop their heads. Individual strands can stick every which way out of a messy bun.
Pro Hair Hacks for Travel Start summer with a fresh haircut: Long or short hair, summer weather can make the ends of hair dry and brittle. A new haircut or regular trims will keep hair Audrey D’Souza in good condition and reduce the risk TIGI Educator of split ends. Trims every 2-4 weeks is recommended. Care for Colour: Chemical treatments mixed with the summer sun heat lead to colour fading, maximum damage and dryness. Use hair care products specially made for colour-treated hair. Use a Conditioner: If the damage is already done and hair has become dry and brittle, you can help restore some moisture by using a nourishing conditioner that suits the hair type and texture. Shampoo with Care: Shampooing your hair every day is not recommended — a good rinse in cold or lukewarm water will do. If the hair gets easily greasy and sweaty, choose a mild shampoo and focus on cleansing the scalp.
@Instagram / Sonam Kapoor Ahuja
Tips:
Style long hair with a centre part and add just a little texturizing spray. Use hair clips to hold back hair on either side. For messy natural waves, just let your long hair air dry and work through some styling balm or mousse. If you have straight hair, wash your hair, plait two braids and wear these to bed. The next morning, undo your braids to reveal easy, natural waves.
Sean Godrard
Red Carpet / Ramp Inspirations Pixie cuts on the Golden Globes red carpet Emilia Clarkes’ back-to-brown colour change Retro waves with a classic red lip
Top Hair Trends for 2019 Modern shag Textured lob with fuller ends for fine hair. Light layering for long hair to make it more versatile Textured crops for men is perfect for the current weather and easy to style. Balayage, Ombré, Baby Lights, and Paint On. Red Carpet / Ramp Inspirations Smooth waves as worn by Priyanka (Chopra), Deepika (Padukone) and Kangana (Ranaut) Products to Match Trends Dheeraj Kohli L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Director & Tecni ART Beach Waves National Educator L’Oréal Professionnel LookS Salon & Academy Tecni ART Siren Waves L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Wild Stylers Crêpage de Chignon L’Oréal Techni Art Deviation Paste L’Oréal Paris Professional Tecni Art Liss Control L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Pro Hair Hacks for the Summer Travel Keep hair short for summer; if not play with braids, twisted top knot buns, low flat twisted buns, and high ponytails in styling. Fads to Forget Copy-pasting social media trends. 06.19
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Hair / Trend Report Products to Match Trends Elixir Ultime from Kerastase French Froisse Texture Definition cream provocative tousle Metallic gloss from L’Oreal Professional Fluidissime Kerastase complete anti-frizz care Pro Hair Hacks for Travel Use dry shampoo Style Your Bangs Straight Out of Loic Chapoix the Shower Creative Art Director Curl, then brush to soften, tie a loose low Dessange Paris Salon and Spa ponytail, twist, secure and set. You are good to go. Detangle your hair with your fingers and leave it loose. Messy is in. Fads to Forget Strong layers and streaky highlights that create an artificial look.
Dessange Paris
Top Hair Trends for 2019 Californian Balayage creates a wonderful contrast between dark roots and lightened ends. ’90s short combines femininity with personality. Play with layers and texture to give the style a genuinely light appearance. The lengths at the nape and the section at the side will soften the face. Versatile Bob is enhanced by light and sculpted bangs, which add a lot of softness. For the tousled and scrunched result, the hair is styled with the fingers using a sculpting wax. Timeless Bob with lightness, natural waves and beige caramel highlights. The bob cut with long and luscious bangs is given texture and structure with a Californian Balayage. Feminine Short is lighter and enhanced by a beautiful length in the front. The Californian Balayage brings out the tapered and fleeting side-swept bangs, which subtly hides the eyes. Couture Updo is ideal for a wedding or a party. Twisted strands, sculpted lengths and a combination of colours add volume to this sophisticated updo. Edgy Pixie is an ultra-modern short cut, with its “kiss-curl” type bangs and lengths at the nape. Natural Bob with sun-kissed highlights is the latest trend prominent on runways. Sunlight Balayage around the edge of the face accentuates the whole look. Hazelnut Highlights create a healthy glow and instantly illuminate the face. Red Carpet / Ramp Inspirations The latest trend is the Balayage colour treatment and the wavymessy hair look. Light and colours emerge from a velvety black background as symbols of irresistible femininity. The graphic lines of the accessories and styling with an Eighties inspiration match the acid and translucent colours that are hot news this season. Visibly layered cuts with wispy ends brighten up faces. The misleading simplicity of texture and styling and the flowing movements of the cuts evoke a feeling of freedom and natural sophistication. Colours have their word to say with intensity and candour. 30 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
There is an overall Vipul Chudasama affinity Director, Vipul Chudasama towards natural Salon & Academy styling — be it hair cuts or colours. Revival of classics like bobs and the textured waves are also in trend. For men, the buzz cut with creative additions like shaved lines or uneven fringes are in. In hair colours, the reds are finally making way for bolder shades like ash-blonde, while an entire spectrum of brown from light blonde to mochas still rule the colour choices among Indian consumers.
Top Make-up Trends for 2019 Pink Eyeshadow - Deep rosy hues work on dark skin tones while pastel pinks are perfect for fair complexion Fresh glowing skin Rainbow eyeshadow or neon eyeshadow Powerful red lips Cobalt blue eyeliner on the lids and silver on the inner corners of the eyes
Ashima Kapoor
Celebrity Makeup Expert
Pro Hacks for Travel Carry sheet masks on a flight to keep the skin hydrated Work with lots of mascara and lip tint for easy travel looks
IMAGES: DISTRICT 6 COLLECTION || SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM 2018
Top Make-up Trends for 2019 Pantone shade of the year - Living Coral - is a warm hue that compliments the Indian skin tones perfectly, with golden undertones. Neutrals, reds, and metallic gold Graphic designs as eyeliners. Aloe Vera based products for skincare Red Carpet / Ramp Inspirations Neutral smoky eyes Crisp Black Eyeliner Matte Red Lipsticks Gold eyeshadows Coral Colours Products to Match Trends Tom Ford lipstick in Bare Peach Nars blush in Orgasm NYX Extreme Gold liquid eyeliner Loreal Pure Rouge Lipstick Smashbox Full Exposure Eyeshadow Palette/ Urban Decay Naked Reloaded Eyeshadow Palette
Samantha Kochhar
Managing Director Blossom kochhar Group of Companies World Deputy Chief Expert (Hair) - World Skills International
Pro Hacks for Travel Choose multipurpose products like lipsticks that can be used as blushers as well. Blotting sheets can take off oil from the face - make sure to dab, not wipe, and it will keep the makeup in place. Aloe Vera gel is a great moisturizer and can help skin recover faster from a sunburn Avoid bleeding eyeliners by applying powder of the same colour over the pencil liner. Icing the face prepares the skin by constricting the pores, thereby reducing the chance of breakouts and controlling oil secretion. Fads to Forget Curly eyelashes
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Hair / In Focus
Art of Latte The
The collection by Lakmé Salon presents hair hues inspired by coffee brews. Lakmé Salon unveils ‘Art of Latte’ – a cut and colour collection with five stellar looks that are sure to make a statement wherever you go. Inspired by the many hues of coffee, the collection features shades of brown - elevated to statementmaking hair with pops of colour — deep copper, vivid berry tones, icy blues, and standout blondes. These looks can be seamlessly carried from dayto-night and work-to-party, making the collection easy-to-wear yet super-glam. Browns are the most flattering shades for Indian skin — it adds depth and warmth to the skin tone, enhances our features, and can be achieved easily on Indian hair with long-lasting effects. There is a perfect shade of brown for every Indian woman — just like there is a favourite brew of coffee for everyone.
Butterfly Pea flower latte Colour: A blend of cool blue with shades of light brown and blonde Colour technique: The Dimensional highlighting techniques for placements of colour shade along with an in-between soft painting of hair Cut technique: Tapered soft over-directed layers with the disconnected graduated top cut
araBian Date Coffee Colour: This look blends deep copper hues interspersed with lighter brown pieces Colour technique: This look is achieved using a perimeter colouring blending global medium-to-light toned browns into deep copper tones Cut technique: The hair cut features a textured fringe with a perimeter layering technique.
reD VelVet latte Colour: This look is a mix of deep berry tones with dark coffee browns Colour technique: A mix of the cascade foil technique with few highlights of deep browns Cut technique: This hair is cut using the disconnected layering technique
We have focused on a shade palette that encourages you to experiment with hair colour without apprehensions of being too loud. It lets you attract attention to your hair without looking OTT. The cuts include graduated lobs, face-framing layers and trendy tapered layers that are stylish but easily manageable in everyday life.” — Pooja Singh, National Creative Director - Hair, Lakmé Salon
Hazelnut Swirl Colour: Lighter hazel toned browns merge with cool-matte blondes; a blended effect within the same colour family Colour technique: Color Melting technique is used to create a full-bodied 3D effect Cut technique: Soft perimeter graduated lob
BlonDe roaSt Colour: Different hues of coffee browns blend from soft to bright blondes in a cascading effect Colour technique: The classic ombre or Balayage technique blends deep coffee browns that transition into blondes Cut technique: Perfect for long hair, this cut uses the inverted layering technique with soft face-framing layers in the front 06.19
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COVER FEATURE
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Tori
is a striking new collection from threetime New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year (2016, 2017 and 2019), Danny Pato. Bold silhouettes combined with exotic avian beauty reference ancient Japanese feminine dress codes, which are re-interpreted for a current design aesthetic. “I wanted to pay tribute to the significant influence Japan continues to have in the world of design” said Pato, “while creating a powerful, emotive connection between the heroine and the illustrated birds”. Styling sets striking primary-coloured silhouettes against intricate avian details, creating a memory from the past with a flight to the future.
Photographer: Mara Sommer Art Director/Fashion Design/Hair: Danny Pato Products: Davines and GHD Illustrator: Kelly Thompson Stylist: Rachel Morton Make-up Artist: Kiekie Stanners 06.19
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COVER FEATURE
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Hair / Interview
KUMI ITO Journey of a Creative Genius! The Creative Design Team Educator at Moroccanoil, spoke to Beauty Launchpad on her recent visit to Mumbai. — By Ritoo Jhha
K
umi Ito began her artistic and aesthetic education at the International Beauty College in Tokyo, and further studies at the Kimono Dressing College and Bloom Beauty Science in Japan as well as Hoxton Make-Up Academy in London. In Tokyo, she honed her skills as a senior hairstylist, tasked with educating junior stylists. Growing into her career as an established hairdresser and session stylist, Kumi relocated to London in 2007. Apart from editorial styling with leading magazines, she has also done hair at New York Fashion Week and London Fashion Week as well as styled advertising campaigns for premier brands including Topman, Christopher Raeburn and Moncler. Here are a few key points from Beauty Launchpad’s conversation with Kumi, during her recent Mumbai visit.
Being a creative artist and a mentor, which role do you prefer more? It might sound greedy but I’d like to combine these two. Because being a mentor, you also need to be as a creative artist.
How has the journey been with Moroccanoil? It has been great. I’ve been having precious experiences and learning so many amazing, new things with Moroccanoil. Listen to what people say and respecting their opinions, and being open to sharing my knowledge to everyone is the key in order to build good relationships with anyone I work with.
What is your advice for young artists trying their hand at editorial styling? Keep your eyes open to any perspective and use your senses and imagination in order to create anything you want. Be spontaneous and motivate yourself to practice a lot and prepare yourself.
What stands out for Moroccanoil as a brand? Moroccanoil Treatment is THE perfect product for hair care and styling; it transforms the hair into beautiful, healthy, shiny hair with the precious ingredient - Argan oil. Indulge in its scent as it is definitely the symbol of the brand.
As an educator, how do you educate yourself? What did you learn at Kimono Dressing College? As an educator, I learn a lot from other people all the time as I would never stop learning in order to improve myself. At Kimono Dressing College, I learnt the history of kimono dressing, manners, variety of kimono and obi by areas, situations, seasons and age. There are so many things I had have to learn to express people’s life with Kimono dressing. For example, where Obi is placed, which shape Obi should be used, etc.
Are make-up and hairdressing changing fast? What do you see in the future of this industry? Yes, trends change fast in a way. People enjoy showing their personality and identity through fashion.
Do you feel personalization is always the trend? Yes, it is the key in order to express oneself.
Hair / Profile
Play Salon’s Biak Lun Clinches First-Runner Up Spot at
L’Oréal Professionnel Style & Colour Trophy’19 Biak Lun of Play Salon, Bangalore, has won the 1st runner up position at the International L’Oréal Professionnel Style & Colour Awards which was recently held at Salle Pleyel in Paris. Over 1700 hairdressers and salon owners from 62 countries attended the event while over 54, 000 people followed the event live on Facebook. The competition was judged by accomplished hair experts from across the world.
W
ith over two decades of experience in the field of hair colouring, Biak’s victory has set a new milestone for industry professionals. Speaking about her glorious win Biak comments, “I am thrilled to win this title at an international platform and it’s like a dream come true. As a hair artist, I have always strived to get better at my work and being appreciated in front of industry veterans and such a 40 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
large audience makes the victory even more special.” Inspired by the French techniques, Biak’s winning look was chic and iconic. Earlier this year, Biak Lun was also the winner of the colour trophy at the grand finale of Indian Hair Dressing Awards which was held in Dubai. Indian Hairdressing Awards is a platform by L’Oréal Professionnel to recognize not only the creative talent of hairdressers but also the business of
hairdressing. The competition, in its 3rd edition, culminated in a Grand Finale held on 6 February 2019 featuring winners from the 4 regional finals and 4 categories of the competition. Biak is an all-star performer under the mentorship of Neeru Radhakrishnan Founder and Creative Director of Play Salon, Bangalore. Neeru is also one of the leading creative Hairdresser in India and a legacy winner being the first from India to win the L’Oréal Professionnel Style & Colour Trophy.
MADELYN CUNNINGHAM | AVEDA INSTITUTE DES MOINES | DES MOINES, IA; PHOTOGRAPHER: TRAV McAVADDY; WARDROBE STYLIST: MADELYN CUNNINGHAM; HAIRSTYLIST: MATTHEW ROUSE
Beauty
Beauty / Off the Shelf
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum is a clinically and dermatologically tested formula that claims to deliver triple anti-ageing power to enhance skin’s barrier repair function, increase moisturization within the surface, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The combination of ingredients are said to work on not only replenishing essential, naturally-occurring lipids but also support the skin’s natural renewal process. Price: 6,900 for 90 Capsules
Beauty
Block Find out what’s new and raging on the beauty block!
IInspired by the most ancient Indian tradition, Global Beauty Secrets Ghrit Aarti Skin Salve which holds true to symbols of aradhana. This rich silky emulsion eliminates ratri or dullness from your skin with effective moisturisation. This skin salve reportedly melts into a rich buttery experience and is blessed with the sattvik ghee and jasmine- tuberose absolute to help you nourish your skin. Price: 3,700.
42 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Nykaa Just Wink It! Nykaa Cosmetics presents Just Wink It! Eyeshadow Palettes in 5 ice-cream flavour inspired variants - Caramel Crunch, Peach Sorbet, Crushed Berries, Double Chocolate Chip and Sweet Sundae. Each palette offers 12 shades complementing all skin tones - perfect for beginners or professionals. A mix of matte and shimmer shades - ranging from nudes, golds, browns, black, reds, mauves and pinks - claims to come in a super velvety formula that makes it easy to glide and blend the product. Price:1,499
Lotus Herbals YouthRx Active Insta Firming Concentrate claims to be infused with a high concentration of the “Gineplex Compound” that provides an optimal amount of collagen & elastin to instantly tighten skin, retain its firmness, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Specifically developed for the Indian skin type, the concentrate is said to be clinically tested and preservative-free. With three highly potent natural Ingredients - Ginseng, Ginger and Milk peptide - visible results are expected within 7 days of use. Price: 595 for 15ml
Inspired by one of Europe’s most colourful and enchanting cities, OPI presents its Lisbon Collection highlighting the natural beauty of Portugal’s capital. The 12 new shades are available in classic Nail Lacquer that claims to last for up to 7 days with a chip-free high shine finish and in GelColor for Professional in-salon services which are expected to last for up to 3 weeks. Price: 850 per bottle for classic Nail Lacquer
Amway India presents the 14th edition of Attitude Color Cosmetics. The latest range comprises of five shades each of Matte and Crème Lipsticks as well as six hues of Nail Enamels. The lipsticks claim to be lightweight with a preservative-free formula that makes them ideal for extended wear. The nail paints are said to have an improved chip resistant coating.
SUGAR Cosmetics launched a new range of Metallic Liquid Eyeliners in 6 shades - coppery bronze, purple, darkened copper, royal blue, teal green, and black with silver micro-glitter. With a quick-dry liquid base, the eyeliners claim to be smudge-proof, parabenfree, waterproof, and long-lasting for up to 16 hours. Price: 699 06.19
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@Instagram / team_kangana_ranaut
Beauty / Red Carpet
Estee Lauder India
Cannes you Spot the Trends
Celebrities worked hard to bring their A-game to the red carpet and set off wearable trends one after the other. — By Rakhi Jerly
@Instagram / Selena Gomez
44 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
@Instagram / Priyanka Chopra
On to the trends — bold black winged liners were a clear fav; also pops of colours in eyeliners with Deepika sporting coral for a casual look, while Priyanka picked a silvery blue for the Chopard party. Bold red lips were all over — from Selena Gomez to Diana Penty. Telly star Hina was a red carpet surprise for all the right reasons and even got featured on some of the
best-dressed lists. In the hair department, Deepika’s high ponytail got everyone talking and Kangana worked the wet her trend in a power look complete with a black pantsuit. In a nutshell, bold and bright eye makeup, nude and red lips, and glamorous hairdos are the biggest takeaways from the Cannes red carpet this year.
DEEPIKA PADuKONE & AISHwARyA RAI BACHCHAN IMAGES: L’ORéAL PARIS
A
s the stars descended on the Fresh Riviera for this year’s Festival de Cannes, along with their die-hard fans beauty watchers too had their necks craned at the red carpet to spot all the trends that are being born in a wink. Needless to say, the glittering line-up of celebrities, either representing their films or a renowned brand like L’Oréal or Cartier, lit up the red carpet with iconic looks that will go down in the history of fashion. Most A-listers, fresh of the Met Gala extravaganza, graciously made subtle but significant style statements that we can’t wait to try in the real world. Priyanka Chopra made her debut at Cannes in a collection of couture creations that put her right alongside her husband Nick Jonas on the popularity ratings. The desi diva who channelled Mad Hatter vibes at the MET was all modern princess and Hollywood glam on the Cannes carpet. Another desi girl, Deepika Padukone stunned us with her sartorial choices and clearly made a statement that grabbed eyeballs. Kangana Ranaut, Huma Qureshi, Hina Khan, and Diana Penty were also in attendance and did not disappoint with their styling choices.
A high protection whitening and mattifying facial sunscreen which is free from preservative, artificial fragrance and colour features a unique dry touch formula which is immediately absorbed in the skin while controlling all sources of shine. It offers a board spectrum of protection with SPF 80 against UVA/UVB rays. It lends the skin an ultra-dry, feather light finish with visible fairness.Â
Green Science Beauty Expert
Beauty / Celeb Talk
Undefeated Undone
&
Laxmi Aggarwal
While Bollywood fans await Deepika Padukone’s ‘Chhapaak’ to hit the screens, Laxmi lived the story that inspired the movie and continues to imbibe courage from it. Beauty Launchpad talks to this inspiring woman who shines like a beacon of hope for anyone fighting to beat the odds. — By Isha Gakhar
L
axmi Aggarwal is no stranger to challenges — as a woman and as an acid attack survivor. Instead of hiding away in the darkness, she chose to step out into the limelight and fight for what she thinks is right — and now that fight has been given an even bigger voice with a Bollywood movie based on her story - ‘Chhapaak’ - being made by some of the most influential celebrities in India. Beauty Launchpad spent a few insightful moments with this inspiring woman achiever to talk about her plans and expectations for 2019 as well as her views on feminism and beauty.
been visiting shopkeepers, asking them why they sell acid, educating them about the law, and also giving them a certificate for promising to stop selling acid from their shops. We have covered five states till now and hope to expand to others in 2019. My goal is to completely stop the availability of acid and thus, stop crimes that arise out of it. It is also about going down to the root cause of this menace by providing counselling to our youth. Overall, we are working to reduce the crime rate in our country.
What are your plans for 2019?
I met Meghna (Gulzar) back in 2016 and it took time to write the story. Finally, when Deepika (Padukone) was confirmed for the lead role and even stepped in to produce the film, it was a great feeling. Because, when a celebrity talks about any sensitive issue like acid-attack, it becomes more powerful. It isn’t an easy subject to tell a story about acid attack survivors and
Last year in June, I started the campaign ‘Stop Sale Acid’ to spread awareness about how acid is easily available at local shops despite the courts ruling against it in 2013. There are many shopkeepers without the relevant license openly selling this harmful substance. Acid has been used to commit some of the most heinous crimes of our time — yet, the law is barely being implemented. So, my focus this year would be on this campaign where we reach out to people and ask them to make a one minute video to spread awareness about irresponsible acid sales. Over 20,000 people responded positively within a month of launching the campaign and we hope to continue our efforts this year. As a part of the campaign, we have also 46 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Tell us about the much-awaited ‘Chhapaak’.
the things they had to go through — so, this film is an achievement for all the survivors. It will give them more courage as more people in society will be informed of this reality.
What is your take on feminism? Feminism to me is all about empowerment and women are already empowered — they just need to realise it and see that they are equal. People find pride in things like “1 female among 10 male pilots” - why? The respect is gone when you say, “she achieved so much despite being a woman” — as being a woman makes you naturally weaker. That’s not true — we have always been strong but were convinced that we are not as strong as a man. Feminism seeks respect for equality and that benefits men too — because you’ll hear how brave a woman who survived acid-attack is but never about a man who survived domestic violence. I want equality and when people realise the real meaning behind it, respect will follow.
What is your understanding of beauty? To me, my work is Beauty. If people focussed only on outer beauty, people would have never liked my work. Beauty is expressed through your actions.
Beauty / Skincare
Cleanse your Skin for a Healthy Glow
Flaunt refreshed and energized skin with cleansers from Cheryl’s Cosmeceuticals
C
leansing is the foremost step to healthy skin care as the face is constantly exposed to bacteria, dirt, and pollution. If not flushed out, these impurities can block the pores and lead to blackheads, whiteheads and acne. Dead skin build-up can also hinder the skin’s ability to produce sebum, and thus leave it dry and dull. Getting rid of these impurities with the help of a good cleanser that effectively cleans without making the skin dry or strip off its natural oils, is a must to avoid breakouts. While choosing a cleanser, it is important to understand your skin type first - the right product should boost hydration, maintain clear skin, remove excess oil and impurities, and give a radiant youthful glow. Cheryl’s Cosmeceuticals, a pioneer in professional skincare, understands these concerns and has 6 different cleansers in their portfolio that take care of every skin type and it’s varying concerns effectively by providing a customized solution.
Customized solutions for every skin type
Dull, uneven skin tone
DermaLite Facewash: A gentle & effective cleanser that cleanses & lightens the skin tone provides hydration and increases skin barrier protection. It contains niacinamide, a powerful lightening agent that helps in decreasing pigmentation.
Oily skin
Clariwash: An anti-bacterial facewash for oily skin that deeply exfoliates to unclog pores & lighten the skin. Containing lemon extract which is known to clear excessive sebum, this facewash exfoliates dead skin cells & prevents the accumulation of pore-clogging impurities. Clari-fi Buffing Grains: A gentle scrub that exfoliates dead cells on the skin’s surface and cleans clogged pores for clearer skin. Enriched with salicylic Acid, this scrub helps in faster cell turnover and exfoliates dead cells to prevent whiteheads and blackheads, revive your skin, remove its dull texture, and give it a bright appearance.
Acne prone skin
Dermacleanse: An anti-bacterial facewash for acne-prone skin that deep cleans impurities and reduces sebaceous secretions. The Cinnamon extract in this cleanser is a dermo protecting and purifying active that restores balance to acne-prone oily skin by helping in reducing the number of blackheads. Clenzima: It controls blemishes without drying the skin & discourages future breakouts by controlling excess sebum. The tea tree oil & eucalyptus oil work to soothe stressful skin by not over-drying it.
Sensitive skin
SensiWash: This ultra-calming foaming cleanser moisturizes & soothes the skin with its strong anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties. Enriched with phragmites kharka & porio Coco extracts, this facewash helps in reducing redness, normalize skin’s natural balance and alleviate skin irritation. *Opt for a professional cleansing solution at just `265/-, available at your nearest Cheryl’s Salon. 06.19
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Beauty / Fragrance
Uncovering
Fragrance Jour neys
Discovering fragrances through the nose of the well travelled, well healed Riaa Algoo! A PersonAl Perfume Journey My fondest memories are always triggered by perfume. A spritz of fragrance gives me immense feeling of nostalgia. Scent has always been transportive for me, It can take me back in time to vividly relive moments as they unfolded. As a child, I first fell in love with Jasmine when the Delicate flower buds were weaved through my hair...in a rural South india. Jasmine has a timeless elegance and the sweet notes can be found in the majority of women’s fragrances around the world - as well as a good percentage of male fragrances. Jasmine has been scientifically proven to alleviate stress, induce calm and ease menstrual symptoms. There is no doubt that Jasmine has positive effects on our brain because it is said to be a trigger that transmits messages to a region involved in controlling emotions within our brain. I always find Jasmine to be powerfully uplifting and always search for Jasmine notes in my fragrances.
Jo Malone Jasmine Sambac and Marigold - This is a Beautifully composed fragrance with lots of indian influence.
I also adore: Gucci Bloom for its complexity. It features Tuberose, Jasmine and Rangoon Creeper which is a unique flower that was discovered in South 48  Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
IMAGE: PIXABAY.COM
Currently I love,
India and is used for the first time in perfumery history. My Everyday Scents are Stella By Stella McCartney and 212 By Carolina Herrera – these always bring in the random compliments from people that pass me by daily. Smelling good is rather important to me and Its relatively important as it creates a good first impression. I am drawn to light, airy fragrances with Jasmin and musk & prefer wearing these fragrances during a working day with smart casual looks. Its subtle for the workplace yet strong enough to mark my presence.
serendIPIty on the WAy A recent trip to Marrakech left me in awe of Orange Blossom. I have always loved Citrus and Bergamont notes in my perfume, especially for gym and it was no surprise that I lost my heart to Orange Blossom. I am currently wearing Tom Ford Neroli Portofino and MEMO Jannat - The latter, which boasts wild ginger, oil of neroli, orange blossom absolute, musc and sandalwood.
When Citrus notes are blended with spicy notes the result is warm and inviting. It has a mystical streak and invokes sensuality.
Essentials bath oils and solid perfumes as my base. My favorites being Raat Ki Rani & Nargis in this luxurious ayurvedic range.
on A dAte I love wearing these to dinner dates in the evening and highly recommend Narciso Rodrigues Rose Musc: Because It has deep oriental facets – Notes of Moroccan rose, spicy pepper and delicate saffron all intertwined into something so mysteriously magical.
lAyerIng I am an inquisitive traveller and I look to express a lot of my individuality via scents. Once acquainted, It becomes sentimental. I have recently discovered the art of layering perfumes and its an experience I am thoroughly enjoying. You can use your favorites from different brands and be experimental. There really isn’t a right or wrong way of doing this. Just find what works for you and unleash your creativity by curating your own mixtures of fragrances.I love starting with Forest
About tHE AutHor Ria Algoo is the MD, Glampalm South Africa & India. Born in South Africa, Riaa seemed to have a flair for business and at 22 set up the first portal on Haircare in South Africa. She had a string of successes in just about 12 years. Riaa enjoys business as much as she is devoted to philanthrophy through THE SAI FEEDING SCHEME - a non profit organisation that provides free food to the hungry and homeless on the streets of Africa weekly. A young entrepreneur with great taste and aesthetics, Riaa has a nose for luxury fragrances as she has passion for the exotic and exquisite. 06.19
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Beauty / Body Art
Masterstroke “Tattoos should be healing,” says AJ Paul who creates incredible permanent art on skin at his studio in Delhi. Getting inked gets more meaning when you experience his services which are always inclined towards the art rather than making just a style statement. — By Isha Gakhar to my own struggles, he designed a masterpiece that perfectly resonates with my thoughts. Not only was he a perfect host, but AJ is a thorough professional too — the finesse of the tattoo, the hygiene maintained in the studio, and his guidance on post care is a part of his professional ethos. As I wait for my new tattoo to change my life, here are a few key moments from the conversation with AJ Paul where he describes his journey in Tattoo Art, the challenges, and his thoughts about the industry.
T
attoos aren’t to be taken lightly and I have had an incredible experience with my first one. As I was thinking about my second tattoo, I decided to visit AJ Paul at his studio and was immediately convinced that he was the right person for this. Recognising my inclination towards spirituality, he decided to create something meaningful and interconnected with my beliefs. What really stands out about AJ is that he takes the consultations seriously and is committed to offering the most exclusive experience to his clients. Walking into his vibrant studio puts you right at ease with the serene atmosphere. During my first meeting with AJ and his wife (Seeta), we not only discussed my idea, but also the meaning of each element in a tattoo. AJ says that a tattoo can change your life and he shared several examples of clients who have overcome various situations after getting a tattoo. After listening 50 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
The Beginning AJ Paul belongs to a family of great musicians — his father Pt Yashpaul is a renowned hindustani classical vocalist of the Agra gharana. AJ used to sing with his father, but he was never forced to follow in his footsteps. “From a young age, I was inclined towards fine arts and my teachers encouraged my passion for sketching. Soon, my Dad also realised my interest and encouraged me to follow Arts as it was also a creative field like music. I joined an Arts college to pursue commercial art and won many awards for my paintings, posters, and branding work. During this time, I saw someone with a tattoo and decided to take up Tattoo Art as a career. My family wasn’t sure and thought it was a risky choice. But I was convinced, as this field is challenging and pays well too,” recounts AJ. It’s been 5 years since this decision and he continues to enjoy this work from his studio in Shahpur Jat, Delhi.
Ajay with wife Seeta
The LeArning AJ learnt his craft from a friend who is an international tattoo artist and gradually mastered the skills by assisting him. “There is no ideal duration to learn Tattoo Art — you have to study a lot about the tools used, hygiene, etc. and keep practising till you get the hang of it,” he says. His fine arts background has been instrumental too — with the knowledge of sketching, anatomy, composition, etc. He also stresses on continued practice and says, “I am still learning and the process will continue throughout my life. Every single stroke is the final stroke — you cannot erase it. So, you have to be at the top of your game at all times.”
The ChALLenges Training in Tattoo Art does not come easy — established artists may not guide you for free as there are heavy professional costs involved. There are very few academies that maintain the desired standards too. In AJ’s opinion, “Some studios are really doing good in terms of quality. As per my experience, international artists are more helpful in teaching you the art — they will guide you step by step. Operating the tools is no big deal — you could learn it in a week. But if you do not have an artistic bend or creative skills like painting and knowledge of anatomy, Tattoo Art wouldn’t be easy to learn.” AJ also feels that the tattoo artist should be able to emotionally connect with the client to create something absolutely unique for them.
The indusTry AJ feels that currently, tattoo artists work in two ways — one considers it as an art with some meaning and the other considers it as a source for easy money. “I feel that tattoos should be healing - it should have a significant meaning to the client so that it heals them in some way”, he says. “Consultation is key — artists must understand the clients’ needs and be ready to guide them to what is best. If someone comes in for a small tattoo, the money-minded artists would convince them to go for a bigger one. If someone wants a negative symbol like a skull, the artist must be ready to educate them about the depth of the subject and how this is a permanent mark that could have adverse effects,” he elaborates. AJ believes that tattoos communicate and create vibrations to your soul — as an artist who chooses emotions over money, he tries to give the best designs to his clients.
Know this before getting a Tattoo: It is an experience and you should feel it — the process is as important as the final result. Ideally, the studio where your tattoo is being created, should have a peaceful environment. Paul does not recommend getting a tattoo done after consuming alcohol to avoid the pain. Also, make sure that your tattoo artist follows proper hygiene. Know this before making a tattoo: If you are interested in turning tattoo art into a career, make sure you practice and learn the process and tool thoroughly. After all, it is a creative art and is permanent. Practice on artificial skin and take guidance from an expert tattoo artist. Do not work on real skin unless your tutor is convinced of your skills. It is not a risk worth taking, without proper training. 06.19
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Of
Captain
&Wonder Marvels
Women
Three amazing women from different professions have made an impact on the fashion scene and their work has been admired for several decades, thus turning them into icons that are admired by women around India. — By Meher Castelino
Lubna Adam Ace Choreographer lubna adam brings in more than two decades of rich experience in the business of fashion, lifestyle and luxury. Her multifaceted talent has taken her through the journey of being Creative Director for Zee Trendz and Zee Café, as well as directing numerous fashion weeks, pageants and fashion shows for every top designer in the country. She has been associated with the launch of international lifestyle luxury brands — Bibhu mohapatra, Kazuo ogawa, Mossi Traore, diesel, Volkswagon, BmW, Omega, Ingeo NY, Smirnoff Fashion Awards, l’oréal, and internationally in USA, London, Paris, Istanbul, World Economic Forum in Davos, Doha, Singapore, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, etc. lubna has extended her support to the social cause by working with Pratham, Cancer Patients association, Mijwan.
2019 Goals: 2018 was a wonderful year with lots of international shows and in 2019, I look forward to more along with regular and new clients here. I am in talks with an International company for a launch which I cannot disclose yet, but it’s exciting and I am truly waiting for that to kick start this year.
Feminism to me: Is about being who I am — confident, strong, an achiever and true to my beliefs. I am not here to prove I am better than anyone else. All that matters is I be good at what I do especially in my profession where I work with a core male team. They respect me as I do them, and together we get the job done well. Cult ProduCts: Crossbody bags - the most convenient during work, and yet stylish enough. My ‘Quick-Fix’ is a moisturizer, nude
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lipstick and glowing skin — perfect to look good every time you step out. Fresh fruits or juice, no gluten, and low sugar diet is the lifestyle to follow.
How do you perceive beauty for a woman of 2019? This is the time all women need to get comfortable in their own skin. Healthy and fit should be the mantra, not size.
Amy Billimoria Couturier And Bridal Wear Expert amy Billimoria, couturier and bridal expert has successfully completed 28 years in the fashion industry and is an environmentalist practising Eco Fashion for the last 11 years. Her luxury store ‘amY Billimoria House oF desiGn’ caters to a unique and bespoke couture experience in the heart of Juhu Tara Road in Mumbai. Her clientele includes royal families, industrialists, high profile socialites as well as Bollywood celebrities. 2019 Goals: The year demarcates my 30th year in fashion and I am focusing on many arenas in couture dressing. I am also working on an app that will give clients various options that suits their body in terms of clothes, styles, and colours, so that whilst customising, the client can visualize herself and make the final choice. Feminism to me: I believe in the New Feminism philosophy, which is similar to equality. I believe in focusing on how the difference between men and women compliment each other rather than causing a superiority complex over one another. My philosophy is to have the ability to recognize the different strengths in roles given to men and women - an amalgamation of which causes us to reach our creative best in pursuing our professional front daily. Cult ProduCts: IOSIS Wellness Spa looks after all my hair care needs. For my face, I prefer using Clarins as it suits my skin and keeps it healthy and glowing while Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau De Parfum helps to keep me fresh and on the move throughout the day. HoW do You PerCeiVe BeautY For a Woman oF 2019? Beauty for the contemporary woman of 2019 has been an amazing transition — from just the woman who dressed up to look good to a woman who feels good and looks good. Today beauty is ‘bout internal strength and confidence. Conquering the day, no matter what happens with grit and grace and that’s how beautiful we all should aspire to be.
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Azmina Rahimtoola Co-Owner Atosa Fashion Store azmina rahimtoola has time and again redefined affordable luxury with her one-ofits-kind, beautifully-curated store ‘atosa’ in the heart of Mumbai, which was started in 2011 and also operates another branch in ahmedabad since 2016. An inspiring fashion entrepreneur, she has nurtured and guided an array of bright upcoming designers and also lent her global fashion knowledge and expertise to them. Striking a balance between an eclectic mix of artisanal handicraft pieces and glamorous resort offerings — Azmina has entrenched Atosa on the fashion map in a short span of time. An eye for detail, meticulous attention to customers along with her personal touch makes Azmina one of the most admired fashion retail entrepreneur. entrepreneur, buyer, guide, mentor, mother to two gorgeous daughters and a homemaker — Azmina strikes a beautiful work-life balance effortlessly.
2019 Goals: My aim is to take Atosa to new cities all across India and internationally. I also want to curate an innovative mix of Indian and international labels and brands for a more exciting and varied offering. Feminism to me: When it comes to feminism, for me it is all about empowering women through the dynamism of design, which is very important.
Cult ProduCts: I love this French brand Filorga and use their cream for my face and under eyes. Another favourite of mine is La Roche Posay, while Forest Essentials is my ‘go to’ brand for bath and shower products.
HoW do You PerCeiVe BeautY For a Woman oF 2019? There is only one thing that I feel is important and that is ‘Confidence’. Once you are confident, you feel like a million bucks and you radiate that glow on the outside.
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PENZONE SALON + SPA | DUBLIN, OH; PHOTOGRAPHER: CORY KLEIN
BUSINESS
Business / Market Analysis
The Suncare market Breakthroughs & Challenges
T
he market has a bevy of offerings from leaders like Lotus to K-Beauty solutions from Innisfree
Shiseido’s new Hybrid-BB for Sports SPF 50 + PA +++ comes in three shades- light, medium and dark, use the WetForce technology that boosts UV protection the more you sweat. The contouring powder makes the skin look healthier & more sculpted and amino complex helps retain moisture with a SuperVeil UV360-degree technology to offer complete coverage against UV !
LOTUS Herbals major launch in the the Safe Sun Line has been the Sports Bloc - called Pro Defence that has a 100 + SPF and calendula and chamomile extracts for skin nourishment, anti-pollution properties and is waterproof and preservative free.
Biotique has come up Bio sandalwood 50+ SPF sunscreen ultra soothing face lotion for all skin types.This lotion is a typical Indian blend of pure sandalwood, saffron, wheat germ, honey and bark of the arjun tree for skin moisturising and care. Protects skin with broad spectrum SPF 50 UVA/ UVB sunscreen. Its said to be very water resistant, retains SPF after 80 minutes in the water.
Innisfree Perfect UV Protection Cream Triple Care SPF 50+ PA+++is a longlasting waterproof UV block that stays highly resistant to water and sweat that protects the skin during outdoor and water activities. This 3-in-1 cream provides triple benefits in 1 product; anti-ageing, whitening and UV protection. 56 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Innisfree Extreme UV Protection Gel Lotion 60 Water Base SPF 50+ PA+++ is a moisture enriched UV protection against gel lotion without white cast that is strong against water and perspiration. The waterbase type product consists of aloe extract, which provides abundant moisture to keep the skin moisturized and refreshed.
The Indian Suncare Challenges!! ö Only 35% of Indian consumers have used a form of sunscreen in the last 12 months, and of those consumers, 25% do not understand the terms used in sunscreen like SPF, PA etc. ö The quantity to apply and, more importantly, reapply is not openly spoken about, which means that, even if consumers are using sunscreen, they are likely not using enough to get adequate sun protection. ö Indian consumers generally prefer multifunctional products over having to apply many products. ö 35% of sun care users have looked for a sun protection claim in their body care products, indicating consumers do not necessarily look for standalone sun protection products as a preventive measure. This means that they use or would be willing to use a basic lotion that offers UV protection. Brands can look to add benefits like whitening into sun care products will help engage consumers who would like fairer skin. Consumers who look for multifunctional benefits will need to be assured that the primary function of sun protection is not compromised. ö According to Mintel GNPD, ‘Botanical/Herbal’, Moisturising/hydrating’, Ethical - animal’, Vegetarian and ‘Paraben-free’ are the top 5 claims (after UV Protection) seen in sun care products in India between January 2018 - March 2019. Appeal to the Indian consumers who prefer to use natural ingredients in their beauty and personal care products. 27% of Indian sun care users look for natural ingredients in sunscreen. By Rimpie Panjwani, Senior Beauty & Personal care Analyst, Mintel
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Business / Interview
The Effervescence in
Pakistan Beauty Industry Ruhana Iqbal, owner of Bhabi’s Health & Beauty Clinic, Karachi, and the Chairperson of Professional Hair & Beauty Association (PHBA) spoke with Beauty Launchpad India about the industry in Pakistan and how it’s growing. — By Ritoo Jhha
T
he PHBA has recently tied up with Nayana Karunaratne’s IHB. “We are launching next month, with the training of the first batch of teachers, with 3 prominent academies and a product company backing us. We are launching in association with PHBA”, shared Nayana Karunaratne, Director, IHB. Ruhana Iqbal details how Pakistan’s salon industry is evolving, what are the top trends and her response to the IHB tie-up.
How big is the Pakistan Salon industry? It is a considerably big and developing industry. With international brands being launched in Pakistan and with healthy competition, local companies are also making an effort to gain market share. And with the growing number of professional schools and institutes, there is an increase in volume of business. Clients are more aware due to social media influence, which is also helping in enhancing business.
How much of the business comes from hair, skin, make-up and others respectively, in terms of percentage? It varies from salon to salon, and depends on the performance speciality of each salon. If it is a hair salon - 60% hair, 20% skin, and 20% make-up. If bridal studio - 70% make-up, 20% hair, 10% other and skin care centre - 60% facials, 20% make-up, 20% hair.
What are the top trends? In make-up - “well-settled” make-up and ‘no-makeup’ (natural make-up) looks are in. In bridal make-up - shimmer is in high demand, otherwise as per the client’s request. Instant brightening treatment for skin and anti-ageing facials are in great demand. 58 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
Ruhana Iqbal
How do you see the future of business in 2020? The business looks promising — with latest education available and the new generation joining their family businesses and bringing in the latest trends.
Please share the top 5 services availed in salons in order of demand? • Make-up • Hair Colour • Skincare • Cut • Streaks/Hair treatments • Body treatments
Is the Pakistan media supporting the beauty industry? Eyelash extension, nail extension, hair/tape-in extension, funky colours, highlights and lowlights, balayage and ombre are some other trends in prevalence.
personal grooming, skincare, make-up and hair.
How do you expect to benefit from IHB?
There are 8-10 leading salons with their branches and franchises in Karachi.
It will be a great support for our industry to be recognized. It is an opportunity to interact with qualified teachers expert trainers, experienced teams and have a strong platform to participate internally.
Please share how hair and beauty education has evolved in Pakistan?
What are the other accreditation and certification agencies in the country?
There are several private academies, training institutes, govt and semi-govt institutes. Every province has its technical board, along with PHABA — the association imparting education, look-and-learn sessions and hands-on training. There are also several companies hosting seminars as well as salons offering classes in
Technical Boards, Pivot Point, Toni&Guy, Memon Foundation, CBT, NAVHC, Giz, City & Guilds and other private companies have schools.
What are the top salon chains and how many formally registered salons are there?
Are unisex salons a trend? Not much.
Yes indeed, there are morning shows and look-and-learn demos constantly being broadcast on television.
How far has Medical Aesthetics evolved in Pakistan’s beauty industry? As the demand and need for medical aesthetic services are increasing, so is advanced technology-based procedures for lifting, tightening and contour. Also for refining pores, reducing scars, collagen induction, reducing fine lines, laser, instant brightening, hair removal, freezing fat and walk-in-and-walk-out treatments.
Is there any platform for beauticians to unite? Yes. It is the need of the industry to unite, teach and provide exposure. Professional Hair and Beauty Association (PHABA) is one such platform. 06.19
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Business / Industry Speak
Poaching A Challenge for Salon Business
Nalini Naegamvala, a pioneer in the hairdressing industry and having successfully run her own business for over four decades got a rude shock when her entire team of professionals were summarily poached at her busy Mumbai salon by a start-up entering the market. She shares her experience and opinion with Beauty Launchpad.
A
n incident that took place last year had a profound impact on my salon and has thus, prompted me to put these thoughts to paper with the hope that salon owners across the country would take a moment to think about where the industry is heading. Undoubtedly, the Indian salon industry has advanced tremendously in terms of service quality — from the small salons to the branded ones, salon staff are taking the initiative to upgrade their work and embracing professionalism in providing hair and beauty services. On the other hand, it is a shame to watch the declining commitment to ethics. As salon owners, our first responsibility is towards the client through services that are backed by knowledge and quality. To make this possible, it is important that we instil ethical conduct in ourselves and our staff. Money is the driving force of any business, but doing our job sincerely and putting the client first is a policy that will help build a long-standing reliable brand. I once advised a stylist - “Just remember you are sitting on that chair as a customer and you will automatically do your job with sincerity.” This became a mantra I will always stand by. It also reminds me of these words from Mahatma Gandhi who is one of the wisest
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men the world - “A customer is the most important visitor on our premise, he is not dependant on us, we are dependant on him.” The reason that prompted me to revisit this essential attitude for every salon business is my recent encounter with poaching and the harm it causes in the hair and beauty industry. Poaching has always been an issue across industries — until we become role models for this generation, change cannot be expected. Most of us old-timers and established salon owners in Mumbai have an untold code of interviewing staff on leaving their respective job/salon — however, this isn’t the case with the new breed of salon investors. The salon owners with deep pockets have resorted to attracting our well-trained staff with huge sums of remuneration that the older salons cannot match up to. 12 talented stylists working for my salon were whisked away by a new salon in Bandra using the same tactics. The poaching even extended to our managerial staff who also provided them with our client data. The clients were then approached with huge discounts which resulted in a double blow to our business — within a month, not only dd we lose staff but also clients. I immediately contacted prominent
salon owners for a meeting and we realised that most of us had similar experiences to share — some of them had even recorded videos of their staff being poached. The new investors in the salon industry come loaded with money but on this case have shown zero ethics, which only leads to the rise in corruption. As the situation worsens, neither them nor us will benefit from rampant poaching. As the staff holds you at ransom and change jobs often, it will eventually destroy the market. Salon businesses are already burdened with increasing rents and running costs, especially in metros like Mumbai - larger paychecks for the staff will only tip the balance further and make it more difficult to survive. There is a right way and a wrong way to improve the quality of business — it is high time that Indian salon owners remember this. We can either have a clean long-standing brand or one that invests in their staff by constantly training them only to lose them to these businessmen who have no qualms in ruining another business to run their own. Views expressed in this article are that of the author’s and do not purport to reflect the opinions or views of Beauty Launchpad IND/ Beauté Espace Media or it’s employees.
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Business / Event Preview
Beauty Meets Business Trends Professional Beauty Delhi will roll out its 8th edition in the capital on July 1-2, 2019 at Pragati Maidan. Since its inception in New Delhi, the show has welcomed more than 20,000 trade visitors looking to fulfil their sourcing, education and training needs.
P
rofessional Beauty Delhi offers the North Indian beauty industry a business event like no other with 500 brands exhibiting and 20 plus new product launches. Some of the noteworthy brands that you will see at Show include Associate Partner - Ikonic, Make-Up Partner - Kryolan, Hair Tools Partner - Mr Barber, Streax Professional, Olaplex and WAHL in the hair category; Kryolan, Makeup Studio, Temptu, and PAC in make-up; Perron Rigot, Pevonia, RICA, Aroma Magic, The Body Care, and Shahnaz Hussain in skincare; and Bluesky, Glam, Cuccio, Colorista, and Ranara in nails. A separate pavilion has 62 Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
been assigned to an array of reputed international brands like DJM Medical, Fitnesswell, Zongshian Jiali Cosmetics, Morfose, Dains and Myca Wax to name a few. An impressive line-up of Indian and international artists are ready to offer free look-n-learn in hairdressing, make-up, skin and nail art sessions. Some of the confirmed names include Avik Hore, Avleeen Bansal, Cherry Petenbrink, Dipika Parihar, Dr Blossom Kochhar, Leyla Vazirova, Simon Shaw, etc. The show area also comes equipped with VIP lounges and meeting areas that will provide ample space and amenities for
exhibitors and buyers looking to network. Visitors will also witness the show on a larger scale at this edition with Halls 8-11 at the sprawling venue neatly segregated to ease navigation. The registration area will have more counters to help speed up the entry process. The third edition of Salon Management Congress (SMC) will present a new format — one day of intensive panel discussions, followed by back-to-back workshops by industry leaders. Professional Beauty Delhi will also host AIHBA’s 7th National Competition. Awards will be given out in several categories that cover hairstyling, hair cutting, nails and make-up.
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72  Beauty Launchpad India | 06.19
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Posting on 12th and 13th of every month. Total pages: 76