F E BRU A R Y 2 0 17
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE
Issue N o 277
®
FALL
IN LOVE with Paris
FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS
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February PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
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PARIS | CONTENTS
Hot Dates
18 SHOPPING
This month’s calendar of must-see events
The latest trends and the hottest fashions
A Day of Romance in the City of Love
46 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions
We share with you our city’s most romantic things to do for a day full of romance.
14
The guide
58 DINING
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants
The Guardian Angel of Solomeo
70 ENTERTAINMENT
Meet designer Brunello Cucinelli and find out what drives the passionate Italian
This month’s best events and bars 78 NAVIGATE
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings
F E BRU A R Y 2 0 17 Issue N o 277
PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®
FALL
PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE
IN LOVE with Paris
FEBRUARY 2017/#277
FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS
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iStockphoto 2017 © Aleksandar Nakic
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Benoit wears Notify jeans, a Bally coat and Robert Clergerie boots Turn to page 26 for more looks from our Love in the Fields photo shoot
4 W H E R E PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2017
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the team | WHERE PARIS
35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER and GEnERaL manaGER
A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42
Where better to celebrate saint Valentine’s Day than in Paris, the City of Love. in this issue we bring you a Day of romance in the City of Love, a romantic round-up of our favourite places to celebrate not only Valentine’s Day but also any day spent in the French capital. We also bring you a his and hers gift guide to help you find the perfect gift for your special someone, while our romantic Love in the Fields photo shoot will get you ready for date night.
COnTRIBUTInG WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*
EdITOR Sandra Iskander*
rounding out our romance-bursting issue is our interview with italian designer Brunello Cucinelli. We meet the passionate designer who followed his heart and married the love of his life who brought him to the small town of solomeo, where he now designs and creates his luxurious ready-to-wear collections. February also marks the Chinese New Year and in our Dining section we share with you the city’s best tables to bring in the New Year with a delicious Chinese feast. and for our culture chasers you will find a rich round-up of exhibitions taking place around the city this month including avedon’s France: Old World, New Look, an exhibition showcasing american photographer richard avedon’s beautiful work.
PROdUCTIOn manaGER/LOndOn Melanie Needham aRT dIRECTOR - PROdUCTIOn manaGER Céline Février* GRaPHIC dESIGn manaGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPInG maPS ILLUSTRaTOR Aline Zalko SaLES dIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet
jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advERTISInG - SEnIOR aCCOUnT manaGER Corinne Durant* advERTISInG - aCCOUnT manaGER Aymen Rakrouki* Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr dISTRIBUTIOn and HOTEL SERvICES manaGER Suzanne Tang* EdITORIaL and maRkETInG aSSISTanT Daria Kobzysta* OFFICE manaGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-maIL FOR aLL OF THE aBOvE FIRSTnamE.LaSTnamE@WHEREmaGazInE.COm
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLIcATIONS
MVP i EUROPE
On our Entertainment pages Oliver Twist takes centre stage with the musical showing at the salle Gaveau until the end of the month with extra dates being added due to the success of the show. another show having a successful run is the Chantal Thomass revue at the Crazy Horse with the residency now extending to March. and if you are looking for a cool cocktail to enjoy make sure you stop over at the royal Monceau for a drink at the intimate Belvedere Vodka pop-up bar, Le Jardin d’Hiver. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in the City of romance.
manaGInG dIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
MVP i EXECUTiVE PRESIdEnT Donna W. Kessler
MVP i CREATiVE CHIEF CREaTIvE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson dESIGn dIRECTOR Jane Frey CREaTIvE COORdInaTOR Beverly Mandelblatt
MORRIS cOMMUNIcATIONS CHaIRman William S. Morris III PRESIdEnT and CEO William S. Morris IV
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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris sNC. société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 rCs Paris. représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (aPCM OJD 2015). N° de issN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: février 2017. reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.
Sandra Iskander [Editor]
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6 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
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February
HOT DATES Discover the best of February in Paris
Be Dazzled by VCA All Month In the house’s Salon Patrimoine, Van Cleef & Arpels is putting together an exhibition dedicated to the 70s. In the posh setting discover and be dazzled by the fine jewellery house’s exquisite creations from that decade with some pieces inspired by the orient and India. Standout pieces on show is this diamond, turquoise and amethyst gold necklace and a necklace that belonged to Princess Salimah Aga Khan that features 44 emeralds. 20 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 04 11 11
8 W H E R E PA r i s i F E B r UA r Y 2017
PARIS THIS MONTH
From Ladurée with Love FebruAry 14th Celebrate Valentine’s Day with a sweet bite of Ladurée’s delicious macarons.
Collier Byzance © Van Cleef & Arpels; Les Inséparables © Ladurée; Lohengrin - Monika Rittershaus ® Teatro alla Scala; iStock Photos © franckreporter
75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 75 08 75
skating on top of the City through to FebruAry 19th
Enjoy a night at the opera with richard Wagner’s Lohengrin, the tragic opera telling the story of Elsa and her mysterious knight. The highlight, and most popular, part of the opera is of course the Bridal Chorus.
Feel like you’re skating on top of the world at the Eiffel Tower ice hockey skating rink. The pop-up skating rink invites skaters young and old to show off their skills on ice. Access is free to holders of tickets to the tower. skates are available for hire (please note that personal skates are not allowed and gloves are mandatory).
Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90
Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23
A Night at the Opera FroM FebruAry 2nd to 18th
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PARIS THIS MONTH
Trade Shows & Art Fairs
Priscilla, Queen of the Desert FroM FebruAry 25th
FEBRUARY 1-6 PARAPSY
The flamboyant Priscilla is coming to Paris. Based on the Australian movie, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, this award-winning musical is taking over the Casino de Paris and putting on a colourful show as three friends go on the road trip of their lives.
This show is devoted to clairvoyance, telepathy, astrology, divination, the esoteric and alternative science and medicine. Healing, well-being, destiny readings, consultations, hypnosis demonstrations and conferences are also on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 8pm, and until 10pm on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd. www.salonparapsy.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th))
16 rue de Clichy (9th), 08 92 69 89 26
FEBRUARY 2-5 L’AIGUILLE EN FETE You will find all you need for knitting and needle work at this attractive trade fair. New creations and innovative textiles from all over the world are featured and this year the needlework of scandinavia is being showcased. Lessons and workshops, including making a mother of pearl button and the embroidery of Yunnan, are organised as well. And a speed knitting contest is held during the show. The show is open from 9:30am to 6:30pm, until 9pm on the 2nd and until 5pm on the 5th. www.aiguille-en-fete.com aris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
FEBRUARY 8-12 RETROMOBILE
FebruAry 9th For one night only Matthieu Boré & The New Orleans Funk Brass Band will be performing at the Jazz Club Etoile. Don’t miss your chance to see him perform popular Mardi Gras songs, funk, gospel and rhythm and blues as well as original songs. 81 blvd Gouvion-Saint-Cyr (17th), 01 40 68 30 42
Champagne Tasting All Month When in France sipping champagne is de rigueur and there is no better place to enjoy French champagne than in Paris’s first champagne bar at Le Dokhan’s Hotel. Discover new and rare vintages in the elegant gold-accented bar chosen by the talented sommeliers.
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FEBRUARY 15-19 ART CAPITAL This show devoted to contemporary art brings together 2500 artists, both established and emerging, working in diverse mediums including painting, sculpture, photography, architecture and engraving, beneath the glass cupola of the Grand Palais. Check website for all times. www.artcapital.fr Nef du Grand Palais, Ave Winston Churchill (8th)
SHOWING ALL MONTH CIRCULATION [S] This show, the Festival of Young European Photography, presents innovative contemporary artistic creation and emerging talents on the European photography scene. A photo studio is set up on weekends to have your portrait taken by a contemporary photographer. The show is open from Wednesday to sunday and from Tuesday to sunday during French school vacations, from 2pm to 7pm weekdays and 12pm-7pm on weekends. www.festival-circulations.com Le Centquatre-Paris, 5 rue Curial (19th)
Priscilla, Queen of Desert © Sandra Mottais ; © Le Meridien Etoile; © Le Dokhan’s. Tribute Portfolio Hotel. Paris
All that Jazz
This is the show for vintage and collectable vehicles. Among this year’s highlights is a presentation of French motorcycles from 1871 to 2017, a Daimler Bottle Car, six models of the Delage racing car that won the Grand Prix 90 years ago and an auction of vintage vehicles by Artcurial. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, and until 10pm on the 8th and 10th www.retromobile.fr Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)
Lunch, diner, and cruise on river Seine
VALENTINE’S DAY DINNER CRUISE
Give her your love… We will take care of the rest. A cruise along the River Seine in the heart of the most romantic city in the world.
FROM 90€
Dinner cruise for two, Singer and piano accompaniment for an intensive moment of tenderness, Gourmet cuisine, exceptional wines and Champagne.
But also all year long Bateaux-Mouches propose dinners cruises at 6pm and 8.30pm. For more information: Tel. 01 42 25 96 10 www.bateaux-mouches.fr
12 W H E R E Pa r i s i f e b r ua r y 2017
Romantic Paris
♥ A DAy of RomAnce in the city of Love By Sandra Iskander
Le Meurice Restaurant © Pierre Monetta
S
pending Valentine’s Day in Paris is a dream for many couples but the stress of knowing what to do and where to celebrate the day of romance could be a little bit stressful and that is why we have taken the work of finding the perfect gift so you are left with only the romance of it all. Win over your love with your cooking skills and make the delicious Persian Love cake made with almond meal, pistachio and nutmeg. Legend has it that a Persian woman was once so madly in love with a prince that she decided to bake him a cake so he would fall in love with her, and so the Persian Love Cake was created. and nothing can be more romantic while in Paris, the city that wears two hats, the City of Love and the culinary capital of the world, than making a Persian Love Cake with your amour. Marie Chavarot, the founder of butter in the shutter, is holding special classes for couples to make the romancefilled cake before sitting for a photo shoot to capture the moment. a massage at the recently opened Nolinski Hotel spa by La Colline is the perfect gift to gift yourself and your partner while visiting the City of Light. escape the cold outside and pamper yourself with the spa’s standout treatment, the Nolinski signature ritual. The treatment starts off with a foot bath before a back massage using massage candle oil is given to the soothing sounds of Mozart. The ritual ends with a hot stone massage and a hands and feet reflexology treatment ensuring that every part of the body is relaxed. The spa also offers an impressive playlist of music so every client can choose his or her ideal
soothing sound, from classical music to opera, making sure your ears are not forgotten about as you gaze up at the twinkling ceiling of the room during the two and a half-hour treatment. The five senses are all elegantly celebrated at the Michelin-starred Le Meurice restaurant with executive chef Jocelyn Herland at the helm, making a reservation at this posh table a real gift for couples looking to sample the best of the culinary capital. Created by alain Ducasse, the menu at the Le Meurice restaurant features contemporary french dishes, including the bonito filet that is slightly seared then smoked on birch wood before being marinated for twentyfour hours, which will delight both your sense of taste and smell. Meanwhile, your sense of sight and touch will be treated to the décor created by star designer Philippe starck who has added a contemporary feel to the classic ballroom with a cascading Murano glass sculpture by aristide Najean and soft white leather Knoll armchairs that you can easily slide into while your ears are treated to the clinking sound of crystal glasses getting ready to be filled with french champagne and wine that have been carefully selected by the head sommelier. it may be a cliché and it may be too traditional for some but it still remains one of the most beautiful places to soak in the romance of the city. The eiffel Tower was designed in 1889 for the World’s fair and it was welcomed with mixed reviews at the time, and now, almost 130 years later, it has become the symbol of the city and the iconic monument that marks a million and one memorable romantic memories. for the perfect view of the Tower make your way to the Palais de
Chaillot where you can take in its splendour in full, and wait for the sun to set, setting up the most romantic moment for you, when the eiffel Tower starts twinkling in the night with what seems like millions of sparkling diamonds, or if it is your first time in the city make your way up the tower and take in the City of Light from high above and seal the view with a kiss. feel like a royal couple for a day and visit the Château de Versailles, one of the most beautiful chateaus and one of the largest palaces in the world. Get lost in the chateau’s famous gardens, walk through the different rooms bursting with history and discover the breath-taking Hall of Mirrors. it is one of the most breath-taking rooms in the Château de Versailles, gleaming in gold and of course glass with the famous 17 mirrors reflecting the 17 windows, which overlook the palace’s immaculate gardens. and what could be more grand than spending a day full of romance with a walk through the stunning Hall of Mirrors. Butter in the Shutter Call 06 49 01 97 43 or send an email to marie@butterintheshutter.com nolinSki Spa By la Colline 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10 le MeuriCe reStaurant 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 55 Reservations are highly recommended. palaiS de Chaillot 1 place du Trocadéro (16th) VerSailleS Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 83 78 00 Make sure you visit www.chateauversailles.fr for all opening times and daily programming.
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14 W H E R E Pa r i s i f e b r ua r y 2017
Interview
The Guardian anGel
of Solomeo By Sandra Iskander
m
Brunello Cucinelli - Portrait in Taylor Class School of Crafts
eeting in solomeo while italian designer brunello Cucinelli is working on his next autumn/ winter collection, contemplating the new colours, is an eyeopening experience, revealing the real drive behind the spiritual designer’s success. studying engineering, Cucinelli quickly realised it was not for him, with the designer only sitting one exam during his three years at university, and at 24 he quit, starting his eponymous company in 1978, aged 25. The designer launched his fashion career by working solely with cashmere, something that became his trademark with the no-logo brand designing only cashmere collections until 2002 with the house introducing leatherwear only in 2008. Today, the luxury fashion brand designs over 1000 pieces per collection for women alone, designing day to evening wear, although Cucinelli’s elegant designs are only secondary to his passion for protecting humankind.
based in solomeo, brunello Cucinelli moved to the small town for love. Meeting his now wife, who comes from solomeo, the designer decided to relocate to be closer to her and now the love story that started on a school bus began the rebirth of solomeo. employing almost half of the village’s population, brunello Cucinelli has become synonymous with the village and a huge part of the very spiritual designer’s success is having given back to his town. The designer invested himself and his company into reviving the small village with the medieval castle erected in the middle of it becoming the brand’s headquarters before housing the brand’s chic boutique. Wanting to protect the environment and nurture the art of design, he started his own tailoring school to help maintain the tradition of craftsmanship and to breed a new generation of tailors, and a gardening school was also created to upkeep the beauty of the village, while the creation of a theatre and an academy of
the arts nurtures the designer’s need of the arts and his love of sharing that with everyone. Love drives him, love brought him to solomeo and love kept him here. He followed his heart and found himself in his childhood’s neighbouring village and made it his life mission to make the village as productive and beautiful as possible. “i too come from a village,” the small town boy says, “i never considered living in a city, i believe you shouldn’t live too far from where you were born. i was born in a village. i go to Paris, New york, but i am always happy to be back. i need the hills, i am used to seeing this landscape,” he continues. “i was born and bred with this idea of moderation, of having grace in everything and generally speaking i think it applies to everything. We need to rediscover the concept of moderation and normalcy. i believe in moderation, of grace of fairness,” he declares. “When i was young i wanted w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15
Interview
to be a monk, i am fascinated by silence, i do not like noise, i was born in a village, i prefer the noise of cockroaches and roosters to sirens. i am attached here, to nature.”
but with ethics, dignity and morals and of course make a profit, but this profit somehow needs to be given back and must be broken down for the company, for me and of course the workers.”
“We restored the village and also the outskirts. in italy 75 percent of inhabitants live on the outskirts, and that is where we need to focus, to restore them properly, the cities are always well preserved but the outskirts need to be restored as well,” the designer says. Growing up on a farm he worked on the land, with animals, and he vividly remembers the smells from working in the outdoors and he was born with this respect for nature, pushing him to be, as he puts it, “a humanist artisan of creation.”
The village, however, isn’t the only thing the designer restructured, besides refurbishing the factories surrounding the offices, which date back to the 70s and were windowless, to create a more appealing workspace for his employees, explaining that, “if you work why wouldn’t you work in a good place, you need to offer dignity to workers,” the designer also restructured the work day. “everyone says they are online all the time and working too much and i wanted my business to work with a lot of focus in a very quick manner but after working 8 hours you are no longer allowed to work. you should raise your head to the heavens for your life to be better but we are always hunched down. We opt for calls as opposed to emails, i get a better idea of what you want from your voice and we get there quicker. There is something i do not want to implement in my company and that is working after hours. i have the idea if i ask you to work at 7pm then it is as if i am stealing time from your soul. i want people to work for a fair time, make a profit but have a fair amount of time for the mind. The idea is to work from 8am without clocking in, break for lunch, giving the mind a break then working until 5.30pm. at 5.30 the doors are locked. My inspiration comes from when everyone is
The spiritual designer believes that, “the great issue of mankind is being a guardian or an owner, but if you think of yourself as an owner your life is a lot more difficult, there is a great difference between being a guardian and an owner. if you are a guardian of mankind you restore things. as a guardian you build things, but if you are an owner you are always afraid of losing things. i feel like a guardian, then it is a must to give back. as a business we do need to make a profit but it is how we respect mankind and how we spend profit that matters. We are all guardians, even if for a short period of time. if you work feeling like a guardian you tackle life in a different manner and that is my role on earth so i want to manufacture, to produce 16 W H E R E Pa r i s i f e b r ua r y 2017
around, people say they have inspiration at 9pm but would you want people around at 9? No, you want to spend time with your family. it is a question of respect. Our focus is the family, we like our employees to be happy and not just work-focused.” solomeo’s guardian appears to also be a guardian to italian fashion. Colour is where it may have all started for brunello Cucinelli but now his collections are more neutral, matching one colour with neutrals, never matching two colours together. “it is not our heritage,” he says, “the colours of the collection are the colours of the land,” explains the designer who likes to “work with a nice view, looking out at the sky.” all the house’s suits are handmade and while the house is a no-logo company his signature trademark is a glittery line that is used in each piece, from the seamline of pants to the sole of a pair of shoes. “fashion is my job and i have always loved it. My job is to work in fashion and protect a certain taste, sporty chic. We are a clothing company, and its taste is sporty chic and that means you can mix things together. besides my job i would like to be a guardian, through my items i would like to sell this italian culture, which is made up of living, and i want to give people a piece of italy,” he states. “There is a place for everything. When i buy a watch i buy a swiss watch, when i buy champagne i buy it from france. When i am in Paris i want to
Interview
Photos © Brunello Cucinelli
go to Maison de l’alsace, i drink beer when i am in Germany. i believe when you drink or eat something where it originates from it always tastes different and better, you need to have and experience something where it originally comes from. everybody has their own charm and i do not want to lose the italian charm. i think everyone has their own identity,” he says. and when asked if he would ever collaborate with another brand he honestly answers, “i would say no. i have always believed in the one single brand philosophy. i have also drawn inspiration from Hermès, i have such high regard for them, i am always fascinated by the house, i want to be in charge and responsible for everything that comes out of the factory, i want an italian house, made in italy, with the nobility of italy, italian craftsman, something that testifies to our italian heritage.” showing me a coat from 2012, he explains that, “i do not design fashion to be temporal, it is inspired by an older design but if i wear it now it is too short, it isn’t something i will wear now, past designs are inspirations, to draw from, but it is never the same thing so it will never stay in a wardrobe forever. i never design something for it to be handed down from one generation to another, in order for it to be contemporary you need to wear something contemporary. i know i will not wear something of mine that is from 30 years ago for example, i will wear something inspired by it but i will not wear the original item.”
When it comes to designing each collection the designer confides that, “the most difficult thing is being contemporary and being yourself and recognisable. Most of my time is spent thinking if each piece is true to the house, is it part of my company’s culture, is it in inline with my spirit. sometimes it is tempting to design something different but i try to do everything my way, you need to maintain your identity. i always remember the latest collections because they really are our identity, it really is us in the pieces. i would say the DNa of the brand is clothing, luxury sporty chic, but for menswear it is a staple to have a blazer, same for women, it is not casual but sporty chic. for ladies if you are at work the idea is you can go to a cocktail straight from the office. Pieces that are for every event.” and when asked about his design inspirations he states, “i only wear my designs. i find that normal but there are many designers that i like and we buy things from other brands as we need to see what is going on around us. When i was young i followed ralph Lauren, for menswear he is a huge inspiration, chic, casual chic, colourful, a great teacher, and for women, Jil sander, yohji yamamoto, all these designers that were not too up in the air, there wasn’t too much fantasy surrounding their design culture. armani, and of course french brands.” However, now when designing brunello Cucinelli confides that he believes, and keeps in mind, that,
“people now want to use less, squander less, clients are users of our products, who appreciate things, we do not call them consumers. There is a new kind of awareness, the decline of consumerism, i think we are now rediscovering the normality of life, the beauty of life that is why i consider this time particularly charming though this certain malaise worries me. in italy there is a high percentage of people taking pills to sleep, people are fearful all the time, my father, my grandfather went to war so i do not understand why we are fearful. i believe this time is the golden age, the golden century, this will be the golden century. i myself am not fearful.” and if there is one message he can send out to the world he says it would be to respect everything and everyone. “i do not want people to work in a condition where a product was manufactured while mankind is being harmed. We are a normal business with respect of human dignity. Whenever something is said with grace it makes life better somehow,” enticing you to almost want to buy his designs just to help his cause, and if you look elegant while doing so then that is just an added bonus, albeit a very chic one. Brunello CuCinelli Boutiques 179 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01 42 22 70 31 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 64 52 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17
The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
Get this head to toe Lanvin look at the recently opened men’s depatment at Printemps (page 24)
18 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Photo Š Lanvin
For Her | Accessories | Gift Guide | For Him | Beauty | Hair Trends
Shopping
For Her
Really Fake recently awarded the Best Fake Fur award at the PETa Vegan Fashion awards, Laseine&Moi continues to impress both the animal-loving community as well as all lovers of fashion. The French brand, created by Parisian designer Lydia Bahia, is not only made in France, but is also 100% made in Paris with all the pieces from the collection made in the house’s Parisian atelier. Jackets, coats and warm scarves make up the collection with statement colours making the pieces stand out in a fashion crowd. Available at Monark 3 rue Sainte-Opportune (1st)
Striking Jewellery Following atelier swarovski’s successful collaboration with French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier, the crystal jewellery world leader is teaming up with iconic French fashion house Lanvin to bring us an even more striking jewellery collection. The collaboration sees a dramatic collection inspired by art deco graphic lines with the strong pieces bearing striking crystal cuts. The collection is made up of bracelets, earrings, chokers and rings, finished with ruthenium and gold, and all set with imposing crystals in blue and shades of gold. Swarovski Boutique 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 61 13 80 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19
Shopping
Accessories
Locked Love This Valentine’s complete your look of love with schiaparelli’s brooch collection. The collection features the gold-plated Winged Padlock brooch, the Heart with arrow brooch with an enamelled satin-finish metal heart and a crystal-dotted arrow, and the Cupid’s arrows gold-plated metal brooch. Wearing your heart on your sleeve could not possibly be more chic especially when the romance-injected accessories can complement any look from an elegant LBD to a more casual jean-and-tee look. Schiaparelli Boutique 21 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 76 21 62 60
Loving Lemonade Designer Lisa Gachet followed her grandmother’s advice and when life gave her lemons she turned the citrus fruit into very fashionable lemonade. Collaborating with French lingerie and homewear brand Princesse tam.tam, the designer has created a capsule collection that combines her signature motif, polka dots with the lingerie brand’s cute and sexy designs. The Princesse tam. tam x Wear Lemonade capsule collection is a fun and comfortable line of homewear with cheeky panties, cosy socks that you can slip your little footsies into and polkadot pyjamas with a cute heart illustration, letting you wear your heart on your heart. Princesse tam.tam Boutique 25 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 49 24 92 38 20 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
With Love, From Balmain Go retro and send your messages the old fashioned way, through the post, and do it with French fashion style with La Poste’s annual Coeur (heart) postal stamps. This year French fashion house Balmain is behind the 2017 design with the house’s artistic director, Olivier rousteing, drawing inspiration from the house’s 2013 spring/summer collection. With black and white stripes, baroque detailing and pastel tones, the flower-filled heart stamp is the romantic final touch to seal your love letter. Available at Carré d’Encre 13 rue des Mathurins (9th), 01 84 19 43 26
Where Paris Promotion
hats off
A
wonderful world of gloves unfolds at the house of Acaba, gloves that are brought out in limited edition collections be they in leather and made in Italy or in fabulous fabrics and made in France. Warmth, comfort and elegance are all hallmarks of the house mixed in with novelty and creativity. There are short gloves, driving gloves and glamorous long gloves all in a harmonious host of materials like select leather from Yemen, tulle, fishnet, and lovely lace.
to the Glove
“I also like two-toned gloves, which let bright colours in winter look good,” explains the house’s founder, Claire Gros, a trained gemmologist who loves gloves and has extensive experience working in the glove business. There are plenty of models on hand too for men in a generous selection of materials ranging from various leathers to suede, all in a multitude of colours. And on an innovative note at Acaba there are, for both men and women, gloves that are user friendly on touchscreens so
no need to take off your gloves when scrolling and strolling in the winter. Glorious gloves can be tried on inside the inviting boutique with its atmosphere of oak, copper and leather outfitted with wardrobes, displays punctuated with LED lighting and refined counters. A full range of sizes is available as well, and if you don’t find your pair in the size or in the colour you need and wish for, you can order it.
Acaba Gantier 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st) Tel: 01 71 72 96 45, www.acaba.fr
There are even gloves in hard to find mesh made in the Oise department north of Paris in a house where the savoir-faire has been handed down through five generations. Gloves in panther print, in houndstooth, with polka dots or with a beautiful bow, fur lined or trimmed, and a bevy of styles are all on the agenda. There are also myriad linings to choose from as well, like silk, cashmere, rabbit or shearling, with the choice depending upon what you’re doing when sporting the gloves for at Acaba, the official supplier of the official glove of the Le Mans Classic car race, there are gloves for hunting, for horseback riding, for the cold of winter or for dancing. And there are gloves of many colours, too, some 40 colours made from craft dyes, colours that burst forth in turquoise, fuchsia, purple, shades of grey, invigorating red or powder pink. The choices are endless, which is why advice is on hand at Abaca, as well. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21
Shopping
Gift Guide
Be My 1
Va l e nti n e
2
1 Make sure he answers all your calls, vintage-style, with this Neoretro home phone Available at Orange Opéra Boutique 10 rue Halévy (9th) 2 Entice him to write you love letters with Chopard’s superfast fountain pen Chopard Boutique 1 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 35 20 10
3
4
3 Help him block out all outside noise so he can listen to your song with sony’s MDr-1000X noise cancelling headphones Available at Fnac 74 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 08 25 02 00 20 4 Blow him a kiss every time he lights the Bacio scented candle from Fornasetti Profumi Available at L’Eclaireur 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th) 01 53 43 03 70
5 22 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
5 Gift his inner child with this vintage Game Boy from Lëkki Available at Colette 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) 01 55 35 33 90
Shopping
Gift Guide
1
2 3
1 rainbows may traditionally lead to a pot of gold but we’re certain your lady love will love finding a diamond at the end of hers with this rainbow necklace from Lovingstone Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th) 01 42 82 34 56
4
2 Give your romance a scent with Chloé’s Love story Eau sensuelle eau de parfum Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 53 93 22 50 3 Let her wear your heart on her wrist with Chopard’s Happy Hearts bangles Chopard Boutique 1 Place Vendôme (1st), 01 55 35 20 10 4 Give your princess the gift she deserves with this amber sakai tiara in black gold with black sapphires Available at Mad Lords 316 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) 01 45 25 08 31 5 Offer her the moon and the stars with this exquisite Tonda 1950 set Galaxy timepiece from Parmigiani Fleurier Studio Parmigiani Fleurier Galerie de Valois (1st), 01 40 13 93 93 6 Make her feel sexy with this lingerie set from Princesse tam.tam Princesse tam.tam Boutique 4 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 58 62 48 96 10
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w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23
Shopping For Him
Gentlemen Only One of Paris’s most famous department stores, Printemps, is enlarging its fashion reach by opening a larger, more spacious department dedicated to all gentlemen. Opening its doors last month, the new space boasts 250 high-end luxury brands with an astonishing 40% of which are exclusive to the department store, offering fashionable gentlemen an entry into on-trend exclusivity. sprawled over six floors, the men’s space oozes a sophisticated energy with exclusive concepts put together by three architectural firms, giving all shoppers a different vibe from one floor to another where iconic brands such as Gucci (pictured left) and Lanvin are showcased alongside up-and-coming designers. Printemps Homme 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00
A Charismatic Chronograph
IWC Boutique 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 62 64 24 W HE RE Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Jumping for Jordan if you love everything about air Jordans and believe they are the best invention in sports footwear then you will love the recently opened Jordan Bastille store. in partnership with Foot Locker, the store brings together the entirety of the Jordan collection with even a Jordan Flight Lab installed to allow shoppers to try on the latest designs. The store also offers the atelier Jordan service where you can personalise your Jordan footwear. Jordan Bastille Boutique 12 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01 49 29 04 43
© Gucci at Printemps Homme
The swiss watchmaker iWC schaffhausen has launched three special limited editions of its Portugieser Chronograph rattrapante watches dedicated to the cities of Milan, Paris and Munich. The house first introduced the watch in 1995 and its combination of the sporty double chronograph for simultaneously measuring two short periods of time with the elegant design of the Portugieser was regarded as a pioneering achievement at the time. The three limited edition timepieces are driven by a hand-wound movement and enjoy a power reserve of 44 hours. These timepieces have a third push button for starting and stopping the split-seconds hand enabling a second short period of time to be measured with total accuracy. The model dedicated to Paris is outfitted with a stainless steel case, a suave slate coloured dial and a hand-finished black alligator leather strap. Called the Boutique rue de la Paix edition, it has been brought out in a limited edition of 250 watches and is available, fittingly, in the iWC boutique on the rue de la Paix. – P.V.
01 / 17 *ON THE REC OMME NDE D RE TAIL PRIC E. © L A VA L L ÉE VIL L AGE 2017
SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY EVERY DAY AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE – PARIS Discover more than 110 boutiques in a charming open-air Village, including Armani, Jimmy Choo, L’Occitane en Provence, Michael Kors, Moncler, Sandro, Tod’s and many more, with savings of at least 33%* and instant tax refunds on your shopping. Find your fabulous. Open seven days a week, 40 minutes from Paris and five minutes from Disney® Parks.
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Shopping Fashion
loVe in the FielDS
She wears ChloĂŠ silk dress Ralph Lauren poncho Gianvito Rossi boots He wears Ermenegildo Zegna coat Dior Homme pants De Fursac cardigan Robert Clergerie boots Agnelle leather gloves
Shopping Fashion
Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Make-Up Artist: Blondine Desgraz from B Agency Hairstylist: Steven Laudat from B Agency Models: Carley Bayley and Benoit Bouisset from Marilyn Agency Photographer’s Assistant: Batiste Dhont Farcy Special thanks to Virginie Giraud (hippixel.net) and her horses, Sepia and Sandro
Ermenegildo Zegna coat Dior Homme pants De Fursac cardigan Robert Clergerie boots Agnelle leather gloves
Francesco Smalto pullover and leather gloves Emporio Armani pants Calvin Klein watch
She wears Etro printed dress Sprung Frères fur coat (Available at Galeries Lafayette) Salvatore Ferragamo boots Corto Moltedo bag He wears Azzaro pants and pullover Lanvin leather coat Robert Clergerie boots Calvin Klein watch
De Fursac pullover and jacket Dior Homme jeans
Michael Kors crochet dress, boots and bag Closed coat (Available at Galeries Lafayette)
Sonia Rykiel pants, shirt and leather belt Sprung Frères jacket (Available at Galeries Lafayette) Salvatore Ferragamo boots Lancaster leather bag Miu Miu sunglasses (Available at JLC Opticien)
Shopping Beauty
Beauty by Chanel Paris wouldn’t be Paris without the Champs-Elysées and shopping wouldn’t be shopping without Chanel and now all make-up lovers can rejoice with the opening of the Chanel beauty store on the most beautiful avenue in the world. The boutique not only showcases the brand’s beauty products and perfumes for both ladies and gentlemen but it also boasts make-up stations and a perfume bar. and with the boutique open 7 days a week getting the latest eyeshadow hue or a bottle of Chanel No. 5 won’t be a problem for a special evening out in the City of Light Chanel Boutique 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 75 87 20
Perfume Bar Over on the Left Bank in the luxurious department store Le Bon Marché, the concept store dedicated to independent perfume brands, Liquides, has opened up a corner store offering shoppers a perfume counter unlike any other. The “perfume bar” presents carefully selected brands in a library-like design showcasing perfumes by, among other perfume names, room 1015, BDK Parfums and P. Frapin & Cie. Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 34 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Because you’re worth it Beauty giant L’Oréal has opened up its very first boutique in France and naturally the city that has the honour of declaring ownership of the boutique’s address is Paris. The boutique is a colourful makeup one-stop-shop with over 600 different products available including 150 exclusive to the boutique. and updating your look couldn’t be easier with the Looks Bar inviting shoppers to test the products before buying, including the rainbow of nail polishes available (pictured). L’Oréal Boutique 62 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 40 37 91 78
Shopping Beauty
it’S All in the hAir You can brush your hair 100 times a day to make it shine or you can take our advice and use these great products that will leave you with healthierlooking tresses that will frame your face angelically. 1 Treating your hair right while travelling couldn’t be easier with new haircare brand Ouai’s treatment mask. sold in a pack of 8 packets, each packet, which can easily be slipped into your make-up bag, holds just the right amount of product to use to repair damaged hair in ten minutes. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 53 93 22 50 2 For those days that you do not have time for a wash and blow dry, Batiste’s dry shampoo will become your new best friend. refresh your hair between washes and add body with the new spice-scented Marrakech spray. Available Monoprix 109 rue de la Boétie (8th) 01 53 77 65 65 3 Keep your hairstyle intact even in windy weather with Bumble and bumble’s strong Finish firm hold hairspray. Available at Sephora 70 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 53 93 22 50
Batiste Dry Shampoo © Batiste
4 Gentlemen-specific products aren’t forgotten about either with aveda’s pure-formance thickening paste to instantly thicken the hair while styling. available from the 13th of February. Aveda - Montecino Salon 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 40 26 18 07 5 Make your hair cascade with shine with Wella’s Elements renewing Mask. Leave in your hair for 15 minutes before shampooing and be left with soft and shiny hair. Wella World Studio 43 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 77 20 25 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35
Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories
children’s clothing & toys
Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),
Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),
01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine
01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet
BeAuty spAs & products
01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.84.52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine
Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal
Books & music FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde
Espace Weleda
| Beauty Spas & Products
36 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
clothing: men & Women Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th),
Tasaki
Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Y’s Yohji Yamamoto - 25 rue du Louvre (1st), 01.42.21.42.93. M° Etienne Marcel
depArtment stores & shopping centres
Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),
09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)
eye WeAr
GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V
JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac
fABrics: couture
Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde
home
Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière
Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),
01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra
| Jewellery & Watches
shopping
Address Book
Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde
Damiani
Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries
Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd),
Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde
Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V
Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries
Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),
01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau
multi-BrAnd Boutiques
01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde
Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
lingerie
Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th),
Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde
luggAge And BAgs
Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V
| Jewellery & Watches
shoes 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V
Arche - 11 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.40.15.91.85. M° Madeleine
Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),
01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Galet – 8 rue de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.54.56.24. M° Odéon Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde
Colette
| Multi-Brand Boutiques w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37
LUXURY MAP
FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
Leica
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•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • Miki House
• Burma Ciro pour
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•Guerlain
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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •
• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling
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Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
VA
38 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
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RUE TRONCHET
• Eres • Swarovski
Lauren Église de la Madeleine • Lancaster • •Furla Marella • • Max Mara Kenzo ULE
RUE DE RIVOLI
Césaire•
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• •• •Wempe Ralph•
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Valentino •
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Yamamoto
105-109 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 77 72 20 70 www.leica-stores.fr
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LEICA
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Oliver Grant
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RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
Lanvin La Perla Ermanno Scervino Longines Prada Escales Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci
• •• • • • •
Lanvin
Jardin des Tuileries
Discover Leica’s new space dedicated to photography, including an exhibition space and a library. Strong of 100 years of experience, our products are the perfect alliance of technology and german craftsmanship. Open Mon-Sat 10 am-7pm.
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Place de la Concorde
3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
SHOP STOP
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JANSSENS & JANSSENS In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
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• Sotheby’sS G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry Capelstore •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo Zegna U ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • • Crockett Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S A • Cartier • RUE P Burberry Hermès • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •
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Élysée Palace
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16 rue Royale - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
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WEMPE The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
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• Christie’s
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• Emanuel Berg • Sothys
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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.
LUXURY MAP
Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
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RU E CA MB ON Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Messika• Tommy • Coach Morabito• Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Chloé• Brioni • Ports • • Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •Miki House Arije Bally • J.M. • • Wine Weston Chopard • RU E CA ST by One
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40 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
• De Fursac
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15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com
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Galerie de Montpensier
Francesco Russo
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
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• Kam’s
Galerie de Valois
Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.
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•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ
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Carrousel du Louvre
RUE S A IN T -H
13-15 Galerie de Montpensier, Jardin du Palais Royal - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 40 15 07 98 M° Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre www.amber-paris.com
The Kooples •
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•Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat •Lyubov • Burma •Stuart Weitzman • Balenciaga
Ami • Missoni• Montagut Kiehl’s • • Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Saint Honoré Colette • M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Notify• Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • •Paraboot La Prairie •
LA MAISON DE L’AMBRE
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Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com
In the very heart of historic Paris this unique specialized amber store pleasantly surprises you with its diverse and exceptional designs of amber jewelry. All items are made exclusively of highquality natural amber.
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•Eres • Carel • Swarovski
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Jardin des Tuileries
RUE DE RIVOLI
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RUE ROYALE • •Vertu Wempe • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara
• Oliver Grant
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Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.
Musée de l’Orangerie
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE
Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
•Lanvin •La Perla •Ermanno Scervino •Prada Chanel Gucci Dior • ••
Espace Cachemire
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Champs-Élysées-Montaigne
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Elysées Joaillerie
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27 rue de Marignan - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 55 07 86 40 www.lampeberger.fr
• Swarovski
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• Chanel • J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO
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• Quicksilver Château Euphorie
•Galerie 26
•Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN UE M A
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
TIGN
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As beautiful as it is useful for exhaling a cleaner and more fragrant air, the Lampe Berger is available in an incredible variety of styles, designs and materials in order to meet every individual’s desires.The collection today is made up of around a fifty lamps and fragrances.
• Cartier
Montblanc
GEORGE V Louis • IKKS Vuitton•
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Armani Collezioni Corneliani PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Ellie • Dubail • Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier RUE UE Les Suites • EN • AV Arije• • PIE• RRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi RRO • Audemars Scabal N Tea • • Chaumet Piguet •EORGE V Beretta G E Dubail U • N De Fursac Paule Ka E • Burma• AV • Sicis • RUE Carvil Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U MOI By Marie&Gas Bijoux E M• • Smalto LLE A Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Davidor • Wine by One • • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Bonbon Watch • Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN Lampe Berger E Dior E MAR Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• Paris RUE D • Joseph• • Nina Ricci PSG • • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE • Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Chanel Akris Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe • Van Pucci•• •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine LT ST Dupont EVE PORT DE LA CO
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19 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 72 00 www.thomaspink.com
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Publicis Drugstore •
RUE DE CHAI
Created in London on the mythical Jermyn Street, this shirt maker draws its inspiration from the legendary 18th century tailor Thomas Pink. It proffers an exceptional line of shirts and accessories and offers a semi-tailoring service for your shirts. Thomas Pink is a modern house, offbeat, bringing together quality, originality and a way with details in the purest of British traditions.
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18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 www.jlcopticien.com
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In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, Mykita, Dior, Chanel, Oliver Peoples and more...
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Boggi
Waskoll A. Lange • • Christofle & Söhne • • Repetto EC U R Corthay Y Mauboussin • Lalique Cartier • Harrison Diesel • OLNE Piaget • V Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX •Dinh Van R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Burma Wine by One • • A Alexander McQueen • E L • Lery Louis Vuitton Van Cleef • & Arpels • E D • Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier U Jaquet Droz R • • Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki • •Vacheron Constantin House Graff • • • • • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Diamond’s Jaeger- Rolex •Boucheron • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED FreyWille Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché ES Voltaire PE • Saint-Honoré TIT Hedgren • O N B
H.Stern
41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr
Lancel
• • • Samsonite • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty •Basler
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BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES
• • • • IKKS
Bally Hackett Omega Harmont & Blaine
L’Occitane
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• Episode
Golfino
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at acaba, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will suit you. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. The 2015 collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials. 11am to 7pm. Closed on sunday.
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Les Marquis
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Galeries Lafayette Coupole
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CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
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1 rue aubert - Paris 9th (M° Opéra) Tel: +33 (0)1 44 94 01 73 www.lanadicapra.com
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Lana Di Capra’s boutique in Place de l’Opéra is where you will find the designer’s world of cashmere. Discover the elegant handmade collection, which offers shoppers 180 colours to choose from.
RUE DE
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Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti
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Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. Now open on sundays from 11am to 7pm.
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CACHEMIRE Luxury Cashmere
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1 Rue Auber 75009 Paris
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1 rue Auber - Paris 75009
www.lanadicapra.com
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11 rue de l’arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com 44 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
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Montparnasse rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. in the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&a, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... at the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.
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5 rue de Tournon - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 40 46 02 90 / www.emaldi.fr
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ELEONORE EMALDI Fashionable, elegant and extremely flattering: Eleonore Emaldi’s ready-to-wear collections are all created with luxurious, high quality fabrics for the ultimate in comfy-chic. Made in italy, they represent all that a Parisian woman would adore, from day to evening and all occasions. Visit our intimate boutique for a chance to meet the designer and have her personally choose something elegant for you to wear.
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8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris
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DOT-DrOPs® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDrOPs® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!
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16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com
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a A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the english luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.
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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr
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LOUIS QUATORZE Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. it It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.
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67 rue Charlot, Paris 3th Tel: 01 57 40 68 85 www.laboutiqueextraordinaire.com
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in In this smart boutique you’ll find both extraordinary or very simple garments, made of natural fibres, rare animal fibres, unusual fibres, unique cloths, textile works of art, largely made in France. These special, luxurious pieces are priced for all budgets.
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The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Catherine Deneuve, actress, Los Angeles, 22 September 1968. Photograph by Richard Avedon Š The Richard Avedon Foundation
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
Discover Richard Avedon’s work that was influenced by France (opposite page) 46 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
arts&attractions
Exhibitions
Audrey Hepburn, actress on the set of Funny Face, Paris, 1956. Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation ; Bernard Buffet, Annabel, 1959, Oil on canvas, 195 x 165 cm, Private Collection © ADAGP, Paris 2016
Avedon, A Tribute The Bibliothèque Nationale de France (France’s national library) is showcasing the photographs of richard avedon, one of the great american photographers of the latter half of the 20th century. His outstanding works are all there ranging from the fashion photography to his remarkable portraits drawn from a career that spanned some 60 years. The show, entitled avedon’s France: Old World, New Look, explores the unique relationship that the photographer had with France and how his work was influenced by it. The exhibit brings together some 200 works from the portraiture to his photographs for Harper’s Bazaar of the Paris fashion collections taken in the 1940s to his collaboration with Nicole Wisniak for the French magazine Egoïste starting in 1985. also on exhibit, for the first time, are the photographs that avedon took for the film Funny Face starring audrey Hepburn, which was shot for the most part in France and which is loosely based on avedon’s career as a fashion photographer in Paris. Through to February 26 Quai François-Mauriac (13th), 01 53 79 59 59
On Being Buffet a major exhibition entitled Bernard Buffet, an intimate Portrait, devoted to the French artist, one of the best-known painters of the 20th century, is underway at the Musée de Montmartre. The show brings together 150 paintings, engravings and photographs from public and private collections and benefits from an exceptional loan from the collection of the artist’s son, Nicolas Buffet. The exhibition offers a thematic journey into Bernard Buffet’s connections to Montmartre from the Place Pigalle, where he was born in 1928, to the nearby Batignolles neighbourhood, where he grew up, and to his home at 20 rue Cortot where he lived for 10 years and which is just footsteps from the museum that is hosting his works. The show features 11 themes giving an overview of the artist’s multi-faceted genius and presents, as well, documents, photographs and memorabilia offering an intimate and moving tribute to the artist. Showing all month 12 rue Cortot (18th), 01 49 25 89 39 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 47
Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS
Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Tel: 01 40 11 96 38
www.olwenforest.com
Galerie TaménaGa
The Feinstein Photos
TamihiTo YoShiKaWa MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Gris, Klee, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet,... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano,... 18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com 48 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
The works of the american photographer Harold Feinstein are being presented at the Galerie Thierry Bigaignon, in a show entitled Harold Feinstein, the retrospective, the First Part, the 1940s and 1950s: Contagious Optimism, which brings together 35 signed and numbered limited edition original black and white photographs. Exhibited for the first time at the age of 23 in 1954 at the Whitney Museum of american art, Harold Feinstein was a major figure of the New York avant-garde and of New York street photography. The show brings together photographs of an exuberant america punctuated by pictures of slices of life from the streets and sites of New York City ranging from the 125th street elevated subway to the shores of Coney island, where the photographer was born in 1931 and which was one of his favourite subjects. Showing all month Hôtel de Retz-Bâtiment A 9 rue Charlot (3rd), 01 83 56 05 82
© Harold Feinstein, 125th Street from Elevated Train, 1950 Courtesy Galerie Thierry Bigaignon
IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART
Manolo ManoloValdés Valdés Helechos, Helechos, 2011, 2011, brass, brass, 155 155 x 118 x 118 x 85 x 85 cmcm
6262rue + +3333(0)1 ruedudufaubourg faubourgSaint-Honoré, Saint-Honoré,75008 75008Paris Paris• T. • T. (0)14242969639390000• paris@operagallery.com • paris@operagallery.com Mon - Sat1010am am - 7.30pm pm& &Sun Sun1111am am pm• operagallery.com Mon - Sat - 7.30 - 7- 7pm • operagallery.com
arts&attractions Exhibitions
The world of perfume unfolds at Le Grand Musée du Parfum, the latest addition to the Parisian cultural landscape. The museum is devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries. Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit traces the history of perfume from antiquity in ancient Egypt to the present and offers a journey into the senses through a unique olfactory collection of 70 scents to smell during the visit. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way, which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. One of the more intriguing scents to discover is what is regarded as the very first perfume known to humanity, kyphi, created in ancient Egypt. Events, exhibitions, workshops and a concept store, where you can order your own perfume according to your favourite scents, round out the visit. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 25 44
Onward Amazons Charlotte Corday, Manon roland, Olympe de Gouges and Théroigne de Méricourt were some of the exceptional women who played a major role in the French revolution alongside the anonymous women who participated in one way or another in the struggle. an exhibition entitled amazones de la révolution: des femmes dans la tourmente de 1789 (amazons of the revolution, Women in the Upheaval of 1789) is being held at the Musée Lambinet in Versailles taking a look at the life and times of these women while putting the spotlight on the relationship between women and the violence of the events that took place during the French revolution. The exhibition, which brings together some 130 works, objects and documents, is particularly rich in representations of Charlotte Corday, the French noblewoman who rather famously assassinated the French revolutionary Jean-Paul Marat in his bathtub, an execution that was subsequently depicted in many works of art. Through to February 19 54 blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 97 28 75 50 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
The collection of raw materials display at the Musée du Parfum Photo © Irène de Rosen; The Death of Marat, Jean-Jacques Hauer, late 18th century © Ville de Versailles Musée Lambinet
A Place for Perfume
arts&attractions
Marc Chagall, Double portrait au verre de vin, 1917 1918, Collection Centre Pompidou © Adagp, Paris 2017; Jean-Luc Moulène, Voyelles Paris, 2015 Photo Florian Kleinefenn Courtesy of the artist and Thomas Dane Gallery, London © Jean-Luc Moulène © Adagp, Paris 2017; iStock 2017 © tupungato
Exhibitions
Left to right: Marc Chagall’s Double portrait with a glass of wine, Jean-Luc Moulène’s Vowels, and the Centre Pompidou
Celebrating a State of
B
the Art Centre
ack in 1969 the then president of France Georges Pompidou decided to build a new kind of cultural establishment, a centre devoted to modern and contemporary creation bringing together all the artistic disciplines from the visual arts to music, films, books and more. The Centre Pompidou was inaugurated 40 years ago on January 31, 1977, welcoming the public on February 2 and soon becoming and remaining one of the most visited cultural venues in the world frequented by Parisians and visitors alike. Forty years later it remains a major cultural player in France and abroad and it has welcomed over 100 million visitors. it brings together a collection of over 100,000 works, a public reading library, auditoriums for films and shows, the institute for acoustics and Music research and Coordination and areas for educational activities. and the first weekend in February celebrations are squarely on the agenda on
saturday, the 4th, from 11am to 2am and on the 5th from 11am to 9pm when the centre is free for all and art is at the heart of the party marked by a cabaret, a parade, a fanfare and a ball. On the 4th, there is the Clédat and Petitpierre parade whose modern art-inspired figures invite passers-by into the Centre Pompidou to the sound of a fanfare. inside visitors can enjoy offbeat guided visits, musical interludes, poetry readings and in the evening there is a ball requiring that guests come dressed in just one colour for a monochromatic look or they can head to the cabaret up on the fifth floor. On sunday the 5th, the day begins with a course in philosophical aerobics and workshops, special visits for children, shows and a host of fun activities are all part of the programme. Meanwhile, throughout the month visitors can enjoy the Centre Pompidou’s permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. running all month is the Cy Twombly retrospective featuring
140 paintings, sculptures, drawings and sculptures including the emblematic works of the american artist, who is regarded as one of the greatest painters of the second half of the 20th century. and for the first time, the Centre Pompidou is devoting a monographic exhibition to the French artist Jean-Luc Moulène running through to February 20th and featuring some 30 new works. Through these previously unseen works visitors can grasp the richness and complexity, both abstract and physical, of the artist’s world. Thirty-five powerful works of the Exiles series by photographer Josef Koudelka will also be presented in the Centre’s Galerie de Photographie starting from February 22. and during 2017, the Centre Pompidou will be celebrating its 40th anniversary throughout France with exhibitions, shows, concerts and meetings being staged in 40 French cities. Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33
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arts&attractions Monuments
ARC DE TRIOMPHE
EIFFEL TOWER
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN
The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. Through Feb 19 ice skating rink on the first floor. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro
This lovely garden with tranquil walkways, superb greenery, fruit trees, a rose garden and statues offers a host of activities for children and adults. it is split into French gardens and English gardens with a geometric forest and large pond between the two. Rue de Médicis/Rue de Vaugirard (6th), 01 42 64 33 99. M° Odéon
LA CONCIERGERIE a medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the revolution. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. adults 8.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
52 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm sat-sun; apr 1-sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 10€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité
arts&attractions
Monuments
© iStock 2017 © Encrier
Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris
PALAIS GARNIER–OPéRA DE PARIS
PONT DES ARTS
SAINTE CHAPELLE
Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through Mar 5 Bakst: Des Ballets russes à la haute couture, exhibition devoted to the splendid costumes and decors created by the russian artist for the performing arts. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
This pedestrian bridge offers some of the finest views of Paris’s monuments including the Notre Dame, the ile de la Cité and the Louvre. Built in 1803, it was the first bridge in the city to be constructed in cast iron and is frequented by artists and musicians. Access in front of the Institut de France on the Quai de Conti (6th) and Quai François Mitterrand (1st).
a jewel-like chapel on the ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité
SACRé COEUR DE MONTMARTRE
THE TUILERIES GARDEN
Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. sculptures by Maillol, rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde
PLACE DES VOSGES One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with a lovely green space surrounded by red brick buildings with blue slate roofs. shops, galleries and delightful cafés and boutiques line the sides of the square. Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert
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Address Book
arts&attractions
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris art galleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Canesso This gallery has a fine selection of Old Master and Italian paintings. Its museum-quality works date from the Renaissance to the 18th century. A host of themes are found in the paintings ranging from religion and mythology to landscapes and portraits. 26 rue Laffitte (9th), 01.40.22.61.71. M°Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette
Galerie Lelong This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil
Galerie NMariño This sophisticated and welcoming gallery in the Marais neighbourhood specialises in geometric abstraction and kinetic art. The house showcases both confirmed and emerging talents and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent collections. William Barbosa, Martha Boto and Hans Kotter are among the artists represented by the gallery. Tues-Sat 1pm-6pm. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01.48.87.49.75. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Galerie Olwen Forest Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie | Attractions 54 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Russkiy Mir
This well-appointed gallery features works by contemporary Russian artists including Anatoly Poutilline, Masha Schmidt, Marina Nikolaeva, Andrei Tyrtyshnikov and Vladimir Sichov. 7 rue Miromesnil (8th), 01.44.71.07.41. M° Miromesnil
Opera Gallery
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde
attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
Canal Saint-Martin
This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Les Étoiles du Rex
Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of
cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle
Le Manoir de Paris
The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau
Parc Zoologique de Paris
This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.
Paris Story
A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin
Pavillons de Bercy
Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion
Aquarium Sea Life
Plunge into the intriguing world of cephalopods at this educational display featuring several species of octopus. The giant Pacific octopus, the nautilus and the Wonderpus will join the 5000 creatures that are already housed at the aquarium. Centre Commercial Val d’Europe, 14 Cours du Danube, 77711 Marne-la-Vallée, 01.60.42.33.66, RER A to Val d’Europe station, 10 min by foot
boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens
Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
Pavillons de Bercy | Attractions
arts&attractions
Address Book
Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01
Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf
River Limousine Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37
Vedettes de Paris Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
Yachts de Paris The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
day trips Auvers sur Oise The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)
Chartres The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre
International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.
city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes)
Château de Fontainebleau
gardens
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Jardin d’Acclimatation A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons
Château de Versailles Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Jardin des Tuileries This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde
Château et Domaine de Chantilly North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Jardin du Luxembourg These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon
Château de Vaux le Vicomte This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie
Musée National du Château de Malmaison This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château
Troyes A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of halftimbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The
Bateaux-Mouches | Boat Cruises
These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.
Bustronome This original tour combines fine food with sightseeing. During the lunch or dinner tour you can see the city’s major sites and monuments from the double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof while enjoying a complete meal revolving around seasonal products. 2 ave Kléber (16th), 09.54.44.45.55. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
L’Open Tour Paris Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets
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arts&attractions Address Book
on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra
My STS Luxury and custom-made excursions are the hallmarks of this company whose drivers are licensed guides. Tours are available in English with expert commentary on history, the arts and antiques and the guides can also take visitors into museums and monuments. 01.74.54.50.08. www.mysts.fr
Paris City Vision City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
Retro Tour Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com
museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne - Pont de Saint-Cloud
Centre Georges Pompidou France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro
Espace Dali In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the
Musée d’Orsay | Museums & Fondations 56 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
Fondation Louis Vuitton
This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Institut du Monde Arabe
Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu
devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne
Musée de l’Homme
This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz
The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro
Mona Bismarck American Center
Musée de l’Orangerie
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design
The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme
A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville
Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris
The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro
Musée d’Orsay
A dramatically renovated former train station
In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde
Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt
Musée Rodin | Museums & Fondations
arts&attractions
Address Book
Musée de la Vie Romantique A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche
Musée des Arts Décoratifs A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal
Musée des Arts et Métiers A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers
Musée en Herbe A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal
Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
Musée du Vin Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections
of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy
Palais Galliera Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau
Musée Grévin A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards
Musée Guimet This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière
Musée Jacquemart-André The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil
Musée Marmottan Monet A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette
Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart
Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne
Musée Jacquemart-André | Museums & Fondations
Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz
Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes
Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf
Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna
Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
practical information Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue
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The Guide
dining
Guilt-Free Pastries | French Fare | Chinese Cuisine | Seafood
Lili at Peninsula Hotel
Chinese fare elegantly awaits at LiLi. Turn to page 60 for more of our recommendations of where to celebrate the Chinese New Year.
58 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
dining
Restaurants
Guilt-Free Treats The gluten-free wave has not subsided and is only gaining force in Paris, and for anyone who prefers, or needs, to eliminate wheat from their diet but still wants to sample delicious French pastries while visiting the French capital, you will be happy to discover Foucade. The gluten-free patisserie shop makes traditional pastries including the lemon tart, opera cake and even éclairs, and not only are they gluten-free but they are also made with less sugar and saturated fat making your stop here guilt-free. - S.I. Foucade 17 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 36 11 81
Dining in Versailles
Ore © Pierre Monetta
With the opening of Ore, Alain Ducasse’s new restaurant in the Pavillon Dufour just inside the entry gates to the chateau, Versailles finally has a charming restaurant serving really good French food at affordable prices that it had been so sorely missing. Architect Dominique Perrault’s minimalist design for the set of minimalist dining rooms rather assiduously avoids rivalling the regal opulence of the adjacent palace, . They serve non-stop from 8am to 6.30pm every day except for Monday, when the chateau is closed, so this means you can stop in for breakfast, lunch, a snack, tea and sandwiches or just a coffee and a pastry, the offer of the latter here is entitled Les Delices de Marie-Antoinette, and they’re fit for a queen. Otherwise, the menu has been shrewdly designed to please everyone from students on a budget to big spenders, children to adults, and carnivores and vegetarians. Stopping in for Saturday lunch, we started with the extravagant salad of lobster and heirloom tomatoes and an order of what may just be the world’s most irresistible pasta outside of Italy, durum flour elbow macaroni with cubes of ham, chopped black truffle and aged Comte cheese. Next, a perfectly steamed turbot steak under a gently tangy, pleasantly earthy yellow cloud of truffled Hollandaise sauce and beef filet with duck foie gras and pommes Anna, both superb. Though a variety of sorbets and icecreams are on offer, along with made to order soufflés, the pastries are just point blank irresistible, don’t miss the lemon tart and the caramel Religieuse (choux pastry with caramel cream and caramel icing). – Alexander Lobrano Ore Château de Versailles, Pavillon Dufour 1st Floor, Place d’Armes, Versailles 01 30 84 12 96
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dining
Chinese Cuisine
Clockwise from left: Experience shang Palace’s Hennessy menu; savour Chez Ly’s famous Peking Duck; Dine on Taokan’s contemporary dishes
Chinese CeLebrations By Sandra Iskander
Taokan Taokan’s right Bank establishment is a mirror image of the first Taokan restaurant on the Left Bank, serving the same delicious dishes that are inspired from various regions of China. Take your taste buds on a voyage from Canton to shanghai and sample the Jiao Tang Ji (caramelised chicken cooked on a griddle), Jin sha (scallops served with a miso sauce) and Ya song (duck marinated in Hoisin sauce and served with mini pancakes). The restaurant also offers Dim sum and original desserts including the Lu Cha Bing, a green tea crepe served with either chocolate or fresh fruit.
I rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01 42 61 97 88 Chez Ly an institution in Paris, Chez Ly is one of the best asian 60 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
cuisine restaurants in the city, offering a large menu, at times overwhelming with the choices on offer, serving traditional dishes from China and Thailand. The standout dish here is the Peking Duck, served as a whole or halved, and other dishes include gingerflavoured beef and a spicy vegetarian soup and wok-tossed noodles. if you favour Thai spices the menu offers chicken and duck seasoned with tangy lemongrass, served on a hotplate. The restaurant is quite popular with locals so reservations are highly recommended.
8 rue Lord Byron (8th), 01 45 63 88 68 LiLi The Peninsula Hotel is immersing itself in the spirit of the Chinese New Year with the hotel’s Chinese restaurant, LiLi, putting together the splendour de l’opéra chinois (The splendours of the Chinese Opera) exhibition, which showcases colourful costumes and photographs of the Chinese opera around the restaurant, to be admired while dining on traditional Chinese cuisine. accompanying the theatrical exhibition is a refined menu put together by chef Ma Wing Tak and includes dishes such as sliced barbecued iberico pork glazed with malt
sugar, poached Bresse chicken served with a ginger sauce and wok-fried blue lobster from Brittany flavoured with ginger and spring onions. The exhibition will be showing until the 5th of February. reservations are highly recommended.
19 ave Kléber (16th), 01 58 12 67 50 Shang PaLaCe The shangri-La Hotel is also holding a special event through to the beginning of this month, with the hotel’s Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, shang Palace, putting together a tasting menu paired with Hennessy X.O. and Hennessy Paradis impérial cognac. Chef samuel Lee sum has created a menu that brings authentic Chinese cuisine to the table and which pairs perfectly with the smoothness of the Hennessy cognacs. The set-menu sees scallops served with Hennessy X.O riviera on ice and crispy pork with a side of eggplant seasoned with sesame seeds and ginger served with Hennessy X.O original. The Hennessy tasting menu is available for lunch and dinner. it is highly recommended that you reserve.
10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 92
Chez Ly Photo © Lisa Klein Michel
L
anterns, dim sum and mochi balls are all on the menu this month to celebrate the Chinese New Year with great cuisine. We bring you our favourite, and Paris’s most sought-after tables, to ring in the Year of the rooster.
Š J Lehmann
French restaurant with panoramic view
1st floor of the Eiffel Tower Paris 7th | Open every day | www.58toureiffel.com w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 61
dining
Restaurant Advertorial
rAtn Indian-Moghol gastronomy / Paris 8th Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in Indian Moghol Gastronomy of the 17th century and immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries. Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin. 9 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th Metro: George V Tel: +33 (0)1 40 70 01 09 www.restaurantratn.com
bustronome French cuisine / Place Charles de Gaulle Étoile, on the corner with Avenue Kleber (16th) Combine sightseeing and bistro dining aboard Bustronome, the city’s restaurant on wheels. With a glass roof, the bus-cum-restaurant allows diners to take in every inch of the splendour the city has to offer. Enjoy an entrée of seasonal vegetables flavoured with olive oil, lime and honey as you ride along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, sample a filet of guinea fowl served with puréed corn, romanesco cabbage and roasted pear and take in the Musée d’Orsay before savouring vanilla panna cotta, sorbet and blackcurrant meringue, Genoa cake and sweet crystallized violet as you pass by the Eiffel Tower. Bustronome operates for lunch and dinner and can also be privatised. Tel: +33 (0)9 54 44 45 55 / www.bustronome.com
le cinq codet Classic French / Paris 7th For creative and gourmet cuisine in an atypical setting, the restaurant Le Cinq Codet of the five-star hotel nestled in the heart of the 7th arrondissement of Paris offers a delicious and authentic dining experience. Discover the slow-cooked organic egg and creamed cauliflower or steamed cod flavoured with liquorice. For Saint Valentine’s Day savour this select menu: sea bream marinated in coconut milk, Espelette pepper and hibiscus jelly; slowly cooked veal filet with potatoes mashed with pastis, endives and blood orange; a dessert cream flavoured with cinnamon, ginger and topped off with strawberry sauce, accompanied by the chef’s chocolate surprise. Don’t wait any longer and be sure to book your table before February 11th. Saint Valentine’s Day Menu: 70 € without drinks / 95 € with drinks (a glass of pink champagne Bruno Paillard or Duval Leroy, Pouilly Fuissé “Secret Minéral” Domaine Denis Jeandeau 2014 and Saint-Emilion, Château La Croix de Figeac 2011) Menus starting at 27€ / A la carte starting at 22€ 5 rue Louis Codet, Paris 7th Metro: Ècole Militaire Tel. +33 (0)1 53 85 15 60 www.le5codet.com 62 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
dining
Restaurants
Time for Seafood Paris just may be the world’s best city for seafood lovers, because the French are such exigent connoisseurs of fish and shellfish and the country’s different coastlines provide the city with a catch of the day that’s remarkable for its quality and diversity. A perfect place to discover all of this goodness is at one of the four Bar à Huîtres restaurants that are run by talented young restaurateur Garry Dorr who since taking over these already excellent properties has redecorated them to give them a festive modern chic style and revised their menus to propose only the best and rarest produce French waters have to offer. Among these delicacies are Gillardeau and David Hervé oysters from the Poitou-Charentes, Belon oysters from the Cadoret family’s oyster beds in Brittany, and big briny Taboureich oysters from the Mediterranean. You can also start with scallop carpaccio, lobster salad or fish soup, and then go with a grilled Breton lobster from the bubbling tanks on the premises of each restaurant or sea bass served grilled or meunière, or a whole grilled turbot for two. Desserts include crêpes Suzettes and crème brûlée, and there’s an excellent wine list. Open daily for lunch and dinner. – A.L. Bar à Huîtres 33 rue Saint-Jacques (5th), 01 44 07 27 37 Visit www.lebarahuitres.com for all the other addresses.
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dining
Restaurant Advertorial
LE bistROt DU LOUcHÉbEm
LE LOUcHÉbEm
Traditional French cuisine
Traditional French cuisine
47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr
431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr
Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.
This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.
WEPLER
bREakfast in amERica
Traditional French cuisine
The "Original" American Diner in Paris!
414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18th / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30e 4Set-menu 24.50e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com
A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: one of the finest French Onion soups in the capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone .
LUNCH & DINNER CRUISES
4BIA 1: 17 rue des Ecoles, Paris 5th 4BIA 2: 4 rue Malher, Paris 4th 4BIA 3: 41 rue des Jeûneurs, Paris 2nd 4Open 7 days a week - 8:30am - 11pm 4Lunch menus, Mon-Fri, 10.95€ & 8.95€ (students) 4www.breakfast-in-america.com
For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes... and much more! Hand in this ad to receive 10% off when you order Breakfast Anytime off our menu!
SIGHTSEEING CRUISES
Discover the spirit of Paris from the River Seine… Located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, Bateaux Parisiens provides every day the more intense and tastiest journey of Paris. Embark aboard its entirely glassed-over boats for a unique cultural and gastronomic experience. www.bateauxparisiens.com • +33 (0)1 76 64 14 45 a
company
64 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
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Address Book
dining
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd)
signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles
Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian
A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde
Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)
This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s
(€)
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Goust - Gourmet (€€€)
Located on the 1 floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra st
Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)
Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries
La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary
(€€€)
Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra
Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)
Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)
Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles
Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)
This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)
This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles
Lavinia - Classic French (€€)
Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
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Canard & Champagne | Classic French (2nd)
dining
Address Book
carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine
Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café
(€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong
long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel
La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)
Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)
Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge
Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)
Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Taokan - Chinese (€€€)
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel
Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)
Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire
Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne
Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim
L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)
Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
L’Ambroisie | Haute Cuisine (4th)
Arpège | Contemporary (7th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67
dining
Address Book delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet - Classic French
(€€)
Enjoy savoury and authentic cuisine in a warm atmosphere in this restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The menu revolves around the seasons and includes homemade desserts. A snack menu is served everyday throughout the day. MonSat L& D, Sun, L only, snack menu in the evening. 5 rue Louis Codet (7th), 01.53.85.15.60. M° Ecole Militaire
Les Ombres - Contemporary
(€€€€)
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)
An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
Apicius - Contemporary
(€€€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)
Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the
hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)
Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)
This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)
This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau
Penati Al Baretto - Italian (€€)
In the exclusive 8th arrondissement, a minute away from the Arc de Triomphe, is where you can enjoy a real treat of fine Italian cuisine in Paris. Into the elegant surroundings of this one Michelin starred restaurant - Chef Alberico Penati proposes a seasonal Menu reflective of the regions of his native Italy along with an extended wine list selection to take you on a refined gastronomic tour of that country. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat D only. 9 rue Balzac (8th), 01.42.99.80.00.M° George V
Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)
The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards
Café Pouchkine - Café (€)
This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Le Restaurant du Cinq Codet | Classic French (7th) 68 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau
Epicure | Gourmet (8th)
dining
Address Book Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin
creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
Wepler - Brasserie (€)
Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy
Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)
Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille
East Mamma - Italian (€)
This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin
Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse
Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)
This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles
Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)
up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna
L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)
Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram
Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th)
suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris
Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
Le Kavéri – Indian (€€)
A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière
Jamin - Classic French (€€)
The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers
This restaurant, recommended by Gault&Millau, serves refined dishes from the repertoire of Indian gastronomy. Starters include chicken tikka and vegetable samosas while butter chicken, tandoori masala quail or shrimp with eggplant are among the many main courses. Daily, L&D. 3-5 quai Aulagnier, Asnières-sur-Seine, 01.40.86.10.11. M° Gabriel Péri
Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Desserts include fun selections like floating island and baba au rum. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
Wepler | Brasserie (18th)
Shang Palace | Chinese (16th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 69
The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Turn to page 73 for Crazy Horse’s sexy new cabaret revue
70 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Photo © Ellen von Unwerth
Shows | Pop-Up Bars | Cabarets | Nightclubs | Gentlemen’s Clubs
ENTERTAINMENT
Shows
The summer of ‘44 One of the nicest things to do while visiting the French capital, especially when it is cold out, is to take in a piece of theatre. Bringing together an impressive combination of history and pure entertainment is Un Eté 44, a musical performed in French with English surtitles. Playing out at Le Comédia through to the 26th of the month, Un Eté 44 brings to the stage the story of how three months in history changed the world forever. six singers dramatically take the audience members to the battle of Normandy before celebrating the liberation of Paris during the two-hour show, performing original songs composed especially for this show by some of France’s most famous musicians including Charles aznavour. Le Comédia 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01 42 38 22 22
Oliver Twist © Pingoin
Please sir, May i Have some more? The famous tale of Oliver Twist is showing at the French capital at the salle Gaveau and because of its huge success more dates have been added through to the 26th of February. The Charles Dickens novel-based musical tells the story of the orphan Oliver Twist and is the perfect show to take in while in Paris. Performed in French with English surtitles, the audience is invited to step into the 19th century and follow Oliver as he escapes the workhouse and falls into a life of petty crime as he goes on a search for his birth mother, before meeting Mr Brownlow, who will change his life forever. The show is beautifully produced with an impressive set and a more impressive cast. Tickets available at Fnac. Salle Gaveau 45-47 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 49 53 05 07 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71
ENTERTAINMENT Pop-Up Bars
irish Dancing Celebrating 15 years of irish dancing, the Celtic Legends are back in Paris for 4 nights only performing their highly energised show at the Olympia concert hall from the 23rd to the 26th at the famous music hall. Together since 2001, the Celtic Legends have performed around the world and define the art of irish dance and music culture and are now bringing their 15th anniversary Tour to the French capital. Hailing from Galway, Dublin and Belfast, the 26 artists enthusiastically perform the traditional irish dance accompanied by traditional music on stage. The speed their feet move will mesmerise you and the hauntingly beautiful music will swiftly transport you to the Emerald isle. Reserve your tickets at Fnac. Olympia 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08 92 68 33 68
Pop-Up Cocktails The royal Monceau has welcomed Belvedere Vodka into its outdoor patio to bring guests Le Jardin d’Hiver, a winter wonderland where Belvedere Vodka cocktails are paired with finger food created by world-famous chef Nobu Matsuhisa for a unique moment in the capital city. Transporting you to a snow-filled forest, Le Jardin d’Hiver welcomes 6 guests at a time. reservations are advised. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01 42 99 88 00 72 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
ENTERTAINMENT
Cabarets and Nightclubs
Chantal Goes Crazy she has brought sexy to the bedroom with her slinky designs and now lingerie designer Chantal Thomass has brought her some kind of sexy to the Crazy Horse cabaret. What was scheduled to be a three-month long residency of playing guest art Director, drawing its curtains at the end of 2016, has turned into a six-month stint for Thomass whose show has proven to be a hit with guests, both French and international, and has been extended through to the end of March 2017. Not only did she create sexy outfits for the Crazy dancers, who all uncannily sport the designer’s signature bob haircut and red pout, Thomass has also collaborated with the cabaret team to bring guests four new acts that are performed alongside the Crazy Horse’s famous numbers. Dressing the dancers only to undress them, Thomass’s ironic contribution also sees the cabaret dressed in her signature style with the space transformed into an intimate boudoir. The Dessous Dessus (upside down) show will now be playing through to the 31st of March.
Crazy Horse Photo © Ellen von Unwerth; INew Club Photo © stokPhoto 2016 © Jag cz
Crazy Horse 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32
New Club in Town The City of Light recently welcomed a new club into its fold and it is called Prism. Found in the hipster capital of the city, otherwise known as the 10th arrondissement, Prism is where house and techno music is the only genre you will find entertaining the crowds every Friday and saturday night from 11pm to 5am. Entry is free. Prism 5 rue de Dunkerque (10th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 73
An invitation
to awaken your senses
Cabarets Moulin Rouge
Valet Parking Available Restaurant 8.30pm- 12.15am Club 10pm-4am Closed on Sundays www.secretsquare.fr
CRAZY HORSE
PARADIS LATIN
a legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. a show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
LIDO
MOULIN ROUGE
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
74 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche
Meneuse de Revue © Moulin Rouge ® - S.Franzese
27, Avenue des Ternes - 75017 Paris Tel : +33(0)1 47 66 45 00
ADVERTORIAL
As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return
to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up
comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!
SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards
Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old
JUSQU’AU 31 MARS 2017 *Chantal Thomass turns Crazy Horse Paris upside down until March 31, 2017
w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75
Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum
piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille
Hotel Costes Bar
The Ballroom
Le Bar Brûlé
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette
Le Bar
Le Bristol Bar
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
La Closerie des Lilas
Experimental Cocktail Bar
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier
Juveniles
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
Le Lucien Bar
Kléber Bar
Le Rubis
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
Harry’s New York Bar
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé”
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live
Le Lucien Bar | Bars & Wine Bars 76 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf
Moonshiner
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin
Ô Chateau
You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Prescription Cocktail Club
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
The Ice Kube
Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle
Wine by One
Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
casino Casinos Barrière
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
jazz clubs Café Universel
Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal
Badaboum | Bars & Wine Bars
entertainment Address Book
Caveau de la Huchette
celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel
Le Duplex
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
La Fidelité
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise
This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Showcase
Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau
Le Social Club
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
Secret Square
Palais Maillot
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
niGht clubs L’Arc Paris
Favoured by French and international
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Queen Club
This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies
Jazz Club Etoile | Jazz Clubs
Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards
Titty Twister
This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal
maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul
Raspoutine
| Nights Clubs
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1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.
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Vincennes reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris AV R E EN RU SUD UE NT L ÉRIQUE PO centres. A TT Convention and Visitors BureauWAwelcome Visitors PÉRIPH are welcome seven days a ON I T NA AC AÏF TO LB I E B E located week in the main office at 25 rue des RU E J. A. D A4 Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides. A N ÉHours: From E Opening November 1st to april 30th, 10am to 7pm. E IN D OU CHARENTONSS
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Le Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 R. DE DE RUE SAM ILLE G S R BRE L EV Jourdain Télégraphe ÉCO LL E S A N leave daily from ET 20) Montparnasse (14RÉrue duL BEL LLE TO U RE BEVA GR TS N MEUSE L Cimetière O IV ES TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT PIÉ LA de Belleville OIN R. D RUE AR HE T M RU LE . R FRA 15th, M° Montparnasse) R Mouchotte, AR S AL E D E Commandant N -M . G . LA E T DU E D . R LÉO E RUBuses U RU E R. S leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd DE CH RU UE ES R and Gare de Lyon (20ALETblvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare Pyrénées E O G RI E R S R . D IA N T RU RÉG BOR BR Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° E DU GUÉ DE Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, ST RG E S D E de RUE S UE N V IE ON AV R A N R I arrive 3 hours Rand SS PI ES E Porte Maillot). I D E 15 minutes before . U GO H B AU Belleville LE DU RIC 6:15am-10:45pm, airport (17€ one way, 30€AT RR. DU TRANSVAAL GE ERT R . from S FA R A L IB Jacques SIER departure time (13€). Or take TEr train Sfrom Gare A I N TEAU F O N CI N PLE TES RUE . P O N theLA arc Parc de Bonsergent round trip). R . J L - These buses T E M also leave .from RAM St-Fargeau GE UE VE Belleville U R C R O L to Beauvais (11.50€, T1 hr 20 min), then taxi PTE DE N U de Triomphe (1 Dave Carnot,L'OR17th, M° Etoile), Porte DES duR.Nord N MÉNIL M. A IL L O T H. AU MON E to airport. RG MÉNI L R. D E R. O U Gouvion st LIN Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), XMaillot (Blvd U U B E R A Couronnes OUH RM FA U L. J SU I DE R. Goncourt RO Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th,RONITES R AM RUE AD DU MA AU République RTIN Pelleport S DE TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE R . M° Trocadéro) E E andFthe (18-20 rue S Tower D A I N Eiffel R .D Jean E ET LA R . DE ON N ES B A U ONT SL DU DOL R UE L'I PLACE DE LA 3 C O UR R. TIM RUE RUE A E S Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 CA R. DAIRPORT ER GAULLE AND F I L ORLY AIRPORT RN E RÉPUBLIQUE rey, 7th, rEr ChampsBOde P. M D U RB OR LA E 3 RE AR H D R FE X Ménilmontant U E I E CH P 6am-11:15pm, from airport N O YA S P. ES O AL minutes, 5:45am-11pm, PA AV E Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses leave dailyMONfrom F Temple R . DU LA UR E IER R. D CA BI G NUE TIB ILL AMP D ES E K V U R R ŒU N BE SO R. FS E JE A30€ round (17€ one way, trip). TakeOrEr B (9.50€)O or Parmentier S R. Charles de Gaulle (roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm RU RB R. DE ERS I R D TH DUP DE IE BO CEN .D OU ETI RUE PORTE DE E S P A R TA N T S R EN catch AR T U L the roissybus (10€) at 11 rue scribe, 9th, M° for from Orly airport to HAV BAGNOLET M C Orly airport/departures S PLACE Rue St-Maur F P L . NA D A U D T L EDU EV R. AMP EZ DE RIS LA GAMBETTA ERK Aevery R. ETS RU E to 10:30pm. O LE T AV Opéra, 15OBminutes between 5:45am and R B L U8pm, Charles de Gaulle airport from 6:30am B ELGR AGN AN B A Oberkampf D D S E T Gambetta . DE BET DE A3 R É P R and . DES GAM every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm UBL LA C N Porte de (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 E O UES IQ U R. D R D Bagnolet NUE E CA E BR UE AN AV E R U minutes between 10pm and 11pm. RT RTR ET E every 30 (01 58 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. EL R. B DE also AG L E rEr B Père LI Filles du PO NE Lachaise ER E RT Calvaire T 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr O IS C from Charles de Gaulle to the antony station then BR VER E AN R. FR AM FR St-Sébastien IN OISS R. S TIS M L E E ART Froissart DE R. metros leave CH P LP O EN the OrlyVal service to Orly sud. OrlyVal TI R. Cimetière S DU M I TO U A St-Ambroise R U E PONT AUX CHO TE T- S ÉB UX DU du Père R. S Musée Richard daily from 6am-11pm from antony and Orly sud. TO ORLY AIRPORTVO Picasso R Lachaise E Lenoir RU O D UR .D L R. S T- CL A U DE E É TA connects with Orlyval, Travel time between the two airports is about P E E LA PEL The rEr B, direction st-rémy, E RL E I U E e R RE E RU UV T TE R TR T 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com PA . DU VI VER an automatic train, at antony. Orlyval runs every A ROQUEPhilippe RC e RO YAL L PLACE IN Auguste EM R . S T 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm DE LÉON BLUM (8.70€). The rEr RCUEdirection CH - G I LL ET ES OL Musée BO OS DU GN CL N E with a shuttle Voltaire UL rnavalet Massy-Verrières connects bus that BA AI Chemin LT UE U D R A E DU BO GN SE VA Vert E E F. R É UR Bréguet RU TT GE DE T OIS goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the . Sabin UE LFOR E B Q RUE R . DU RUE B O R. DE ME R RO E PAS DE S DES ND . RU LA M U ELS ULE Métro PLACEDenfert-rochereau L A stop (14th), every L20 SO O RT E A EV E HN DES PL.DE LA UX O N N Alexandre A CHAR S RÉUNION VOSGESminutes 5:35am-11pm D E (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris R Charonne O Dumas A D DE UM VE D E S-Paul U RU NE RUE X aéroport buses leave from the arc de Triomphe RE ROI NE RU TER AC PLACE RON E L Porte de E DE CHA DRE R. D Bastille DE LA 17th, Montreuil S PORTE DE R. S T- (1 ave XAN Carnot, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 DE ANT R. ALE BASTILLE D E L A P RE U I L MONTREUIL OINE E PE MONT Maraîchers D C R UE E S RU RUE ave du Président MR U Opéra Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the A N Z Y CH N TIT . DE L Bastille V O I R E Buzenval . R A P D 'AV RUE D E L E SrEr C L U Z E Champs Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean rey, 7th, Rue des DU CER BL IS A I R. Boulets IE VD NR Ledru HE S RUE UE Rollin Avron de Mars-Tour Eiffel), LaRMotte-Picquet (88 ave CH AM P Sully VO D GR AN DS Morland B LV IL LT de suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) REU DE S T E A N D RU U Y MO IR DE This beautiful and original boutique RUE E FA U B O U R DE R. IGN É and Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant PLAINE G LA RUE UB SAINT D'A in the heart of Saint Germain des R. M O RN AYMouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 E Faidherbe IN AN R. D MB.
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CARRIÈRES
13
navigate
Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
80 W H E R E Pa r i s i F E B r Ua r Y 2017
Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.
“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
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w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 81 09/07/15 22:59
My Paris
CHARLES PEYRIN
HEAD CONCIERGE AT LE DOKHAN’S Bar Le Dokhan’s
BateauxMouches
Musée d’Orsay and the Jardin des Tuileries
The view from the Arc de Triomphe
What are your top 5 most romantic restaurants? Lapérouse, Le Petit Prince de Paris, La Truffière, Les Ombres and Les Climats. In your opinion, what is the most romantic place in Paris? The Place de Furstenberg is the soul of SaintGermain-des-Prés. Discreet and full of charm, this place is certainly the most romantic in Paris, especially at twilight when the small central streetlamp is lit. The square is home to the National Museum Eugène Delacroix. 82 W H E R E PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2017
What has been the most romantic thing you have had to organise for a guest? A couple of Americans of Irish origin came to Paris to celebrate their 30th wedding anniversary. They wanted to renew their vows on this occasion and asked me to organise the ceremony in front of Winston Churchill’s statue. I managed to find a celebrant, a photographer, a florist and many other necessary contributors so that the ceremony could be as beautiful and as successful as possible. This memory remains very touching. Is there somewhere in the city that surprised you in how romantic it is/or could be? I like to stroll in the Galerie Vivienne, the most beautiful covered alley in Paris. The Neo-Pompeian atmosphere, its mosaics by Faccina, its glass roof, its rotunda, its paintings and sculptures, its magnificently decorated boutiques from which you cannot leave empty-handed are enchanting. Depending on the time of the day, it is always possible to end with a glass of wine at the famous Legrand et Fils wine cellar and grocery shop. From where would you recommend a couple take in the best and romantic view of Paris? I think that the most romantic and most spectacular view in Paris is the one from the Arc de Triomphe. Indeed, from the terrace one can admire day and night a unique panoramic view of Paris, the Champs-Elysées, the 12 avenues starting from its base, the Eiffel Tower, the Sacré Coeur, La Défense with the Grande Arche, and the dome of the Grand Palais. The Arc de Triomphe is the hyphen between the ancient Paris and the contemporary Paris, at the top of the axis linking up the Louvre to the Grande Arche de la Défense.
Which boutique would you recommend if one of your guests were looking to purchase a special gift? What could be better than a perfume for Valentine’s Day? Have a nice moment at the magnificent Maison des Parfums of Serge Lutens under the archways of the gardens of the Palais Royal. The decoration is soft, cosy and relaxing, there is a magnificent central staircase. This is for customers fond of original perfumes, who try to define themselves by their perfume as well and who will leave with a unique gift, customised in an engraved bottle bearing the initials of the lucky one to whom it will be offered Which bar would you recommend for a romantic nightcap? Le Bar Le Dokhan’s is the first champagne bar in Paris to serve champagne only in a discreet and quiet atmosphere. More than 200 kinds are offered by our sommeliers who regularly travel to Champagne to discover and offer you new or rare vintages.
My perfect day 9am: Breakfast at Carette, on Place du Trocadéro in front of the Eiffel Tower. 12pm: Lunch at l’Oiseau Blanc located on the 6th floor of the Peninsula. Hotel offers a magnificent view of the most famous Parisian monuments. Refined and traditional French cuisine 3pm: Spa and massage at Les Bains du Marais. 9pm: Dinner at Toinette’s, a traditional French bistro.
where
®
Your Guide to the World
Musée d’Orsay Photo © iStockphotos © theendup; View from Arc de Triomphe Photo © iStockphotos © borchee
What would you recommend to visitors who are looking for 24 hours of romance in the City of Love? I would advise a couple to stroll along the Seine’s banks. The day would start with lunch at the Caféothèque, which offers coffees from all over the world in a friendly atmosphere facing the Ile Saint-Louis. The morning will enable them to discover the Ile Saint-Louis and the Ile de la Cité. On the Ile de la Cité they will discover the Notre-Dame cathedral and the Sainte-Chapelle. They will have two romantic breaks, the first on the very quiet Place Dauphine and the second in the Square du Vert Galant, built as a tribute to Henri IV, which is at the end of the Ile de la Cité. After a lunch at Café Marly, which offers a stunning view of the [glass] pyramid, they can cross the Seine via the mythical Jardin des Tuileries to reach the Musée d’Orsay. They will then discover the architecture of this former train station and admire the largest impressionist paintings collection in the world. At last our visitors will reach the Pont de l’Alma to end the day with a dinner cruise on the Bateaux Mouches, which is for sure one of the most romantic experiences in Paris.
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