Where Paris March 2016 (#266)

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M A RC H 2 0 16 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 266

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

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PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Teasing Paris Dita Von Teese

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March PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

®

10

PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

The guide 20 SHOPPING

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The latest trends and the hottest fashions

14

Dancing with Dita

44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

Meet the burlesque dancer who is taking over the Crazy Horse cabaret

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

18

The Musée Rodin, A Renaissance

Our selection of the month’s hottest restaurants

56 DINING

Discover the recently re-opened museum

70 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars 78 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings M A RC H 2 0 16 ®

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 266

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

®

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE

Teasing Paris Dita Von Teese

MARCH 2016/#266

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ON THE COVER Turn to page 14 for our cover story where you will meet burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese. Photo © Ali Mahdavi

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Welcome to Paris

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EDITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton

Sexy, romantic and full of life are all words and expressions that define the French capital and this month Dita Von Teese encompasses all that is great about Paris and has translated it into dance in her very sexy show at the Crazy Horse cabaret. We sat with the burlesque dancer and in our cover story Dita revealed what makes her feel sexy, what makes her want to dance and how Paris makes her feel. In this issue we also take you on a tour of the recently reopened Musée Rodin where you will discover The Thinker and The Kiss. Meanwhile, our Shopping pages are bursting with new limited edition items, new openings and colourful new trends as seen in our Jump into Spring photo shoot. For our readers who love eating their way through the city make sure you turn to our Dining section where you will find old favourites that have reopened as well as a carnivorous round-up of the best steak restaurants in Paris. We also bring you the best pop-up events in our Entertainment section as well as live shows, cabarets and of course bars to enjoy a chic cocktail hour while in the fashion capital.

ART EDITOR Shelley Varley DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/LONDON Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANT David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* DESIGNER AND PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (OJD 2014). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: mars 2016. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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March

HOT DATES Discover the best of March in Paris

Spring is in the Air MARCH 20 Celebrate the first day of spring with a leisurely walk through the beautifully manicured gardens of the Jardin des Tuileries.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Elite Riding MARCH 1820 The 7th Saut Hermès at the Grand Palais is taking place this weekend and it brings together the world’s finest show-jumpers. Watch as the elite-level riders guide their horses around the Grand Palais.

Gardens © ISTOCK; Elite riding © Frederic Chehu; Louis Vuitton Autumn/WInter 2015/2016 Collection courtesy of Beauty Press

Tickets are available at www.sauthermes.com

Paris Fashion Week MARCH 19 Paris Fashion Week takes hold of the city when all our favourite brands showcase their autumn/winter 2016/2017 collections. Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior are only some of the big name brands showing their new collections for the warmer months.

An Ephemeral Event MARCH 812 Krug en Capitale IV invites you to an exceptional event at the Musée Nissim de Camondo, which opens its doors exclusively to Krug and chef Armand Arnal. The exceptional rendezvous sees the museum’s garden turn into an enchanting secret garden where dinner will be served and accompanied with classical music. Reservations at www.krugencapitale.fr are essential.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs

Easter Sunday MARCH 27 Celebrate Easter this year by taking a bite from chocolatier Pierre Marcolini’s Alice in Wonderland-inspired collection of edible characters including the Queen of Hearts and the White Rabbit. The chocolatier has also put together a gift box bursting with 30 praline Easter eggs, to share or to keep all to yourself.

SUN-TUES 6-8 OMNIVORE This show dedicated to food and drink is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Leading chefs, farmers and producers of fine fair and workshops devoted to cooking, cocktails and street food are all on the agenda along with conferences and debates. The show is open from 9:30am to 6pm.

Pierre Marcolini boutique, 235 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 09 67 15 07 22

www.omnivore.com. Maison de la Mutualité, 24 rue Saint-Victor (5th)

FRI-SUN 11-20 FOIRE DE CHATOU

MARCH 16 Originally closing on the 31st of January, the exhibition Osiris, the Sunken Mysteries of Egypt has been extended to the 6th of the month due to popular demand so make sure you do not miss your chance to take in the show, which is bringing together over 250 antiquities at the Institut du Monde Arabe. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01 40 51 38 38

www.foiredechatou.com. Ile des Impressionnistes, Chatou. RER A to RueilMalmaison, then free shuttle to the fair.

FRI-SUN 18-20 SALON BODY FITNESS This show is the place to be for fitness and well-being fans. A wide selection of machines, clothing and gear for working out are waiting to be tested and tried on. Fitness experts are on-hand as well along with conferences and group fitness and dance classes at the Podium Body Fitness. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm. www.salonbodyfitness.com. Paris Expo 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

WED-THURS 30-31 DRAWING NOW

A Night at the Theatre ALL MONTH Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray is being played out at the Théâtre Classique Lucernaire. Performed in French, watch as Dorian Gray’s portrait ages and reflects his corruption and sins, as he physically remains untouched by time. 53 rue Notre-Dame-desChamps (6th), 01 45 44 57 34

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This art fair featuring contemporary drawings is swinging into its tenth year. Some 70 galleries from France and abroad presenting a selection of original works and highlighting various artists will be welcoming collectors and visitors. The show is open from 11am to 8pm. www.drawingnowparis.com. Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène Spuller (3rd)

WED-THURS 30-31 SALON DU DESSIN This art fair is a genuine ephemeral museum with galleries and dealers presenting their finest of drawings. This year the show is celebrating its 25th anniversary and the special guest of honour is the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, which will be presenting a selection of drawings that have never been shown in France before. The show is open from noon to 8pm, and until 10pm on the 31st. www.salondudessin.com Palais de la Bourse, Place de la Bourse (2nd)

Egyptian Mysteries © Franck Goddio/Hilti Foundation, photo: Christoph Gerigk; The Picture of Dorian Gray Photo © Photo Lot

Egyptian Mysteries

This charming show, held twice a year and spread out over a tent village setting, draws some 700 merchants from all over France displaying antiques and bric-a-brac reflecting regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy. An entire alley is devoted to French gastronomy and expert advice is on-hand as well as valet parking. This year the show is celebrating its 91st anniversary and is open from 10am to 7pm.

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WHERE PARIS • 210 x 297 mm • Visuel : PANNEAU • Remise : 28/01

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CHINESE ARTISTS AT THE FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON FROM 01.27 TO 08.29.2016 # FONDATIONLOUISVUITTON 8, AVENUE DU MAHATMA GANDHI BOIS DE BOULOGNE – PARIS

* DES ARTISTES CHINOIS À LA FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON

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Interview

dancing with dita By Sandra Iskander

Photo © Ali Mahdavi

S

he is regarded as one of the sexiest women in the world and now famed burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese is strutting to the Crazy Horse, one of the sexiest cabarets in the City of Light, to bring her special kind of glamour to the already iconic cabaret. From the 15th to the 30th of March Dita will be performing 33 exceptional shows that will bring her seductive moves to the Crazy Horse stage ten years after her first guest-starring role at the cabaret. With a carte blanche Dita will be bringing audiences Dita’s Crazy Show, which will see her perform five numbers, including Teese’ing, a cheeky play on words on the star’s name and her signature burlesque talents. “It’s very exciting (the Crazy Horse show) I’ve been here before, we’ve done two different shows here, but each time it is a different show from the previous time,” the glamour girl explains. “The first time [I did the Crazy Horse show] I did the bathtub show, which I thought was a nice tribute to the history of the Crazy Horse as the founder had seen a show with a dancer perform in a bathtub before bringing it here. I have been doing a bathtub show for many years and I thought that would be the perfect thing to do with Crazy Horse so I did that and I reinvented it a couple different ways [for every time] I come back and so I wanted to do it again in a new way because I love the

tribute to the original Crazy Horse. I’m also doing a couple of acts that are quintessentially Crazy Horse but with a little bit of a twist and creating something new with a new tech element to it that is all very new,” Dita continues. While she is famed for her bathtub act she is also synonymous with a giant martini glass though unfortunately she goes to explain that, “There will be no martini glass though as it is too tall for the stage, its not that tall but once I’m in it, it adds height.” Having travelled around the world with her sexy revue, Dita is very hands-on when it comes to her shows, explaining, “I always get involved with everything because I really have distinctive ideas of what I like to do, although sometimes the ideas are difficult to realise, they’re mostly expensive. When I produce my own shows, when you take in the costumes and everything that goes with it, it could cost me up to $80,000 but its something I love to do. But what I love about coming to the Crazy Horse is I get to utilise their in-house teams. I have had ideas that I have spent fortunes on including when I was a MAC Viva Glam spokesperson, I had this idea that I wanted to ride a giant lipstick, and we made the costume that was $50,000 alone, covered in Swarovski crystals. It was during Art Basel in Miami. I like extravagant costumes, I’m a real burlesque aficionado and I like to do

things that have not been done before, things that will blow people’s minds away.” Toning down and reducing the number or props and their sizes for her Crazy Horse show, Dita will be bringing her sultry act to the stage and putting all the focus on her. When comparing the Crazy Horse to other venues she has performed in she says, “one of the things I love about the Crazy Horse is that is it so vastly different from the shows I do in my normal revue, which is always thinking about filling a stage with tall, big things and to build things [to fill the space] but what I love about coming here is that it is more intimate and people can see all the really small details, like the fingertips, the tip of a garter, the expression, it’s much different from being on big stages, I think it is like if you are an actor doing a play and doing a movie, the differences are so subtle but they create something different.” Although she is primarily known for her burlesque shows, Dita also has her own lingerie brand, which she describes as being “ very much inline with my personal brand, it’s very retro glamour, but reinvented for every day life. That’s my whole theory behind lingerie, glamour behind every day life instead of lingerie that you put on to be sexy. I think it is my goal to make them both the same thing. I love fashion but I feel very connected to lingerie, my first job when I was working w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  15

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Interview

as a teenager was working in a lingerie store. Working in a lingerie store is what sparked my entire career as a showgirl. I worked from 15 to maybe 22 in different stores, in small stores and then in department stores, I just loved lingerie so much, my first thing I wanted to do was be photographed in it and so I started posing for pin-ups in the early 90s and then the burlesque show started from there. So I think that there is something about lingerie that I feel very knowledgeable about more than anything and I feel like that is something I can preach to women about, that you can have beautiful functional lingerie, it’s like a moment of beauty in every day life, it doesn’t take any extra time out of your day. That’s why I love it.” And while she has inspired designers, including Alexis Mabille who recently designed an haute couture dress with her in mind, the dancer admits that fashion designing is not for her. “I love super high-end fashions but I don’t necessarily want to get in that price bracket. And that’s another thing I love about lingerie, it’s a little more accessible. I did have a capsule collection of five dresses that were all based on my vintage collection, I love modern interpretations of vintage things. What I think I am is a tastemaker, if anything. If I weren’t making shows or lingerie I would probably be a stylist because I’m good at choosing. I do have a lot of respect for people who design clothes because it is such a complicated thing,” she explains. The ultimate proof of her styling capabilities is of course her signature look, which the dancer admits that “I think like anyone there are days when I wish I could snap my fingers and my hair would be a different colour to make major changes but then I keep going to the same thing because I feel very close to it because I created it. I invented something that is distinctive that even people reference and I feel very close to it. I feel like ‘it’s mine’. I’m a blonde girl from a farming town in Michigan, I crafted an image [and] I feel like I made this thing and I don’t want to just abandon it.” And how does one of the sexiest women in the world, keep her silhouette in top shape? “I try to be mindful, I exercise, clean living for the most part, everything in moderation, though in Paris I do indulge, I love the Ile Flottante at Brasserie Lipp, it’s my favourite thing. I love Caviar Kaspia, whenever someone says can I take you to dinner I’ll be like sure… but I also like the small places too, the Rose Bakery is one of the places that I always love to go to, it is within walking distance of where I used to live. I spent three

“I feel sexy in Paris. I have had very sexy moments here.” years living between Paris and LA but it got too complicated and with the travel between [the two cities] I felt like I had no home, living constantly out of a suitcase, and it was becoming a very expensive way of living.” Starting out in 1991, Dita loved pin-ups and she explains that she discovered that “a lot of the pin-up models of the 30s, 40s and 50s were actually burlesque dancers and then I was very interested in this relationship between performing and taking pin-up photos. I was quite known for recreating vintage-style pin-ups back then. I remember going to a California strip

club and walking in and seeing these Californian girls and thinking I’m not like any of these girls and I thought it could be interesting to portray a different version of sensuality and beauty and sexuality instead of being just the quintessential California girl, bikini babe, and so I felt it was kind of interesting to challenge that idea and that’s why I started doing burlesque shows.” Today she occasionally holds dance classes and recently organised a workshop “at a famous spa out in Arizona called Canyon Ranch. I did five days of striptease classes, 70 to 75 women filled the classes. I really enjoyed it, it was very interesting, though I would like to do smaller classes to be able to spend time with the people individually, its something I like doing and something I’d like to do again.” She is also passing her talents to “a couple of protégés that I am teaching, a couple of girls that I think could be really great burlesque

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Photos © Julio Piatti

dancers.” and one of the things she is careful in teaching is how to become a master of seduction. She explains “you become a master of seduction by practicing in every day life so it becomes completely natural and then it doesn’t look like you’re trying to be sexy for someone. It’s like being on stage, the more you do it, the more you don’t think about it, and the sexier it becomes. Seduction to me is you have to be yourself and your world, seducing someone is being a certain way that makes people want to be a part of your world and so they come to you. That’s how you seduce someone, you don’t go get them, you make them want to be part of your universe and so you have to not think about what they think is sexy, you have to think what makes me sexy. People are attracted to people who are dynamic and exciting and cultivated. Being seductive is so much more than just being beautiful.” Another key to being Dita is to be glamorous. “I always liked the word glamorous, it’s not a compliment to myself its more that the word glamour to me is more about creation and embracing and creating mystique with not just the cultivation of your appearance but also your personality and I think anyone can do it and create it. That’s what I love about it. It doesn’t matter how old you are or how rich you are or how pretty you are, pretty doesn’t have anything to do with it.” Sexy, intelligent and sassy, Dita epitomises femininity and the star confides that she feels the sexiest, “when I’m on stage and everything is aligned and right. And its not about people liking what I do it’s about me having a good feeling and everything falling into place perfectly and I feel like I can totally be myself and let people see the image I created but also see Heather Sweet from Michigan, the real me, then I feel good. And of course I feel, on the other side of the coin, sexy without the glamour aspect, personal and private, the real naked person I am in the bedroom with someone I am totally aligned with. It’s not anything like it is on stage, the glamorous side is gone. I’m not one of those people who gets up early so her boyfriend doesn’t see her without make-up, behind closed doors my look is a toned down version of what people see but I do not have a separate persona. You won’t see me in jeans and a t-shirt and think that’s the real me, its not that at all.” Crazy Horse 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  17

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The Musée Rodin, a Renaissance

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ne of the capital’s great museums has recently been refurbished and restored to a new splendour and the world can once again view the Kiss, the Cathedral and so many of the masterworks of the great French sculptor Auguste Rodin. The Musée Rodin re-opened last November after a three-year restoration of the fabulous Biron mansion, a listed Historical Monument, which has housed the permanent collections of the museum since 1919. The elegant 18th century building set in elaborate gardens, where one finds The Thinker, has been restored, re-furbished and while retaining its 18th century aspect, thoroughly modernised. The museum displays some 600 works and the renovations have allowed the museum to rethink its exhibition space to show the work of Rodin and some of his contemporaries, including

his pupil and lover Camille Claudel, in a new light. In 1916, Rodin donated his collections, possessions and copyrights to the French state, thereby creating the only French national museum that is the legal successor of an artist and able to fund itself through the dissemination of his work. The new layout of the exhibition spaces was undertaken to highlight the sculptor’s creative development with notably the addition of a number of works in plaster from the museum’s reserves illustrating the genesis of the work of the artist. The chronological and thematic visit travels through 18 rooms and includes for the first time a room devoted to the collections of drawings, engravings, archive documents and photographs. The works are arranged so as to be visible from one room to the next, enticing the visitor to advance and each space has a dominant feature that varies from room to room.

The chronological presentation includes a room with a reproduction of the Hôtel Biron as it was in Rodin’s day while up on the first floor aesthetic and historic dimensions as well as the creative process are all explored. The room named Rodin at the Hôtel Biron recreates the space exactly as it was when the sculptor lived and worked there with its original furniture, works by Rodin himself and pieces of his vast collection of antiquities, an important influence on his work. The collection, made up of thousands of fragments of Ancient Greek and Roman sculpture, has rarely been shown to the public and is the object, in the Rodin and Antiquity room, of a presentation of some 100 antique fragments surrounding Rodin’s Greek-influenced Walking Man, one of his key sculptures. His work Triton and Nereid is also presented on an antique stand among a group

The Thinker and the Hôtel Biron Photo © agence photographique du musée Rodin – Jérôme Manoukian

By Patricia Valicenti By Patricia Valicenti

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Cl. Lemery, Rodin sitting down consulting his papers in the Hôtel Biron, 22 April 1912, aristotype print Photo © musée Rodin; The Kiss Photo and The Hôtel Biron and garden Photo © agence photographique musée Rodin, Jérôme Manoukian

The Thinker and the Hôtel Biron Photo © agence photographique du musée Rodin – Jérôme Manoukian

Culture

Opposite page: The Thinker and the Hôtel Biron. This page, clockwise from top left: Rodin in the Hôtel Biron; The Kiss; The Hôtel Biron and its garden

of Roman marbles. Rodin also assembled a fine collection of paintings including works by Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet and Edvard Munch. Some of them he purchased while others he acquired by exchanging works with his painter friends. Some 50 of these works are presented throughout the museum. One of the bucolic highlights of the visit is the sculpture garden, which contains almost 30 monumental bronzes including Rodin’s key masterpieces like The Burghers of Calais, The Gates of Hell, The Thinker and Balzac among others. Meanwhile, the Marble Gallery in the garden displays some 30 sculptures. Designed in 1971 as an open storeroom its presents marble sculptures, some unfinished, that were carved, after models by Rodin and under his guidance, by younger or less talented sculptors called practitioners. The works represent a

range of subjects ranging from portraits to monuments and mythological themes. It was Rodin himself who determinedly pursued his project for a museum devoted to his work. “Rodin was not given to making speeches or lecturing; his aim was to exhibit. Rather than offering to teach the young sculptors who flocked to his studio around 1900, he gave them an opportunity to work with him,” explains Catherine Chevillot, the museum’s director. The Hôtel Biron, the beautiful mansion that houses the Musée Rodin, was built for a wealthy financier, Abraham Peyrenc de Moras, it is a fine example of the rocaille architecture that was fashionable at the time. Constructed at the time on the outer limits of Paris, it was both a town house and a country residence. It has had a succession of owners since its completion in 1730, among them Marshal Biron

who gave his name to the edifice, the papal legate, the Embassy of Russia and a religious order called the Society of the Sacred Heart, which remained there until 1905 when the laws separating church and state were applied. With the mansion slated for demolition a host of artists moved in, notably Jean Cocteau, Henri Matisse, Isadora Duncan and Rodin who arrived in 1908 on the advice of his friend and secretary Rainer Maria Rilke, the writer. The mansion’s surrounding garden and grounds were landscaped along the classical lines of a French-style garden with sculptures, flowerbeds and copses. The southern part of the garden has an ornamental pool, a lawn and rows of lime trees and two paths winding among the greenery. Musée Rodin 77 rue de Varenne (7th), 01 44 18 61 10 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  19

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Turn to page 26 for more of our Jump into Spring photo shoot Escada printed silk jacket; Paul & Joe pants; Paula Cademartori shoes (Available at Le Bon Marché); Andrew Gn bag; Goralska earrings and ring

Photo © Marc Martinon

New Openings | For Her | For Him | For the Home | Spring Fashion | Beauty

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A Secret in Paris Victoria’s Secret has finally opened a boutique in Paris, at the airport, making last minute shopping a whole lot sexier. The American brand’s line of lingerie and beauty products are all showcased in the ParisOrly airport boutique, which boasts a “boudoir” dressing area for ladies to try on the famous lingerie. Paris-Orly Airport Terminal Ouest

The Champs Welcomes Dubail

Victoria Secret © IStock

Photo © Marc Martinon

Shopping

New Openings

The most beautiful avenue in the world has just recently welcomed a new boutique into its fold. Dubail, the upscale multi-brand boutique specialising in haute jewellery and timepieces, opened its third store late last year and it is aptly striking, perfectly complementing the grand avenue. Sprawled over three floors, the boutique brings together all the renowned names in haute jewellery and timepieces, including Rolex, Piaget and Chopard. Dubail Boutique 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 64 09 90 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  21

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Shopping For Her

Playfully Sexy Charlotte Olympia has collaborated on a capsule collection with luxury lingerie brand Agent Provocateur and the result is playfully sexy. Inspired by pin-ups and 1940’s and 1950’s silver screen movie stars, the collection includes three lingerie sets and three shoe designs. High-waisted briefs seductively whisper old Hollywood glamour while the leopard print set screams femme fatale. The fine detailing of each set also nods to, very subtly, to the shoe designer, with Charlotte’s web and the signature Kitty face making cameos in the designs. Agent Provocateur Boutique 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 61 79 54

Wear Fun on your Wrist Another collaboration sees Atelier Paulin and Hipanema come together to design dainty bracelets with sweet words delicately written with and into the silver and gold plated bracelets. The limited edition accessories are made in France and are handmade, with each bracelet featuring a sweet little coloured tassel, adding an extra touch of bohemian fun to the bracelet. Available at BHV

A Tropical Statement Nach’s latest collection of clutch bags is every fashionista’s dream for standing out in the crowd. The collection features leather clutches with intricately designed porcelain animals including a panther, a cat and a leopard, adding an original design detail to a simple staple. The standout design though is the Birdy Bag, featuring a colourful parrot, complete with its tassel tail, this clutch guarantees to make you look like an island dream. Available at Printemps 22   WHERE Pa r i s I m a r ch 2016

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Shopping

For Him

Getting into Gear Robust, enduring and pioneering are the hallmarks of Tudor’s iconic Heritage line, and the current re-interpretation of the Heritage Ranger is infused with modern touches while keeping the icon of the historic model of the 1960’s. The current model is larger than its predecessor, with the case measuring 41mm in diameter, and it is entirely satin finished on its steel parts, a finish that is an integral part of a watch prepared to face the most extreme conditions in the far north for historically this watch was worn in Arctic climate. Outfitted with a matt black dial with the Tudor rose logo engraved on the crown, the watch has distinctive pear-shaped hands. It has a self-winding mechanical movement and is waterproof to 150 metres. Set off on a brown leather bracelet equipped with a clasp that has a safety latch, an additional camouflage fabric strap, which is hand loomed in France on Jacquard looms is supplied with the watch. – P.V. Available at Galeries Lafayette 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 81 14 08

A Star for a Star To coincide with the release of David Bowie’s twenty-seventh studio album, Blackstar, Paul Smith collaborated with the late singer and graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, and designed a limited edition t-shirt. Available in black and white, the t-shirts feature stars, a direct nod to the album’s name. Not the first time to work together, the trio previously collaborated on another limited edition t-shirt, which was designed in celebration of Bowie’s 2013 album, The Next Day.

Paul Smith for David Bowie T-Shirt Photo © Paul Smith

Available online at paulsmith.co.uk

Hidden Ties Artling, the name behind tailored suits and shirts, has added a cheeky accessory to its otherwise straight-laced collection, silk ties. Available in three colours, the chic silk ties discreetly show sexy images of glamour girls. Hidden in the folds of the ties, the vintage pin-up images give every gentleman a cheeky secret to keep close to his chest. Artling Boutique 55 rue des Saints-Pères (6th), 01 42 22 99 92 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  23

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Shopping

For the Home

Worldly Furniture Maisons du Monde recently inaugurated its huge flagship store on Boulevard Montmartre, not far from the famous Parisian department stores. The 3-floor store is a dream for any home décor aficionado who loves finding pieces of furniture from around the world. Large and spacious, this store offers everything for the home, from vintage-inspired pieces for your bedroom to colourful salad bowls and cocktail glasses for your kitchen. Maisons du Monde Boutique 5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99

Through to the 12th of March, in the furniture department of Le Bon Marché, discover the limited edition collection of the iconic Spaghetti Chair. The chair, which was originally designed by Giandomenico Belotti for Alias in 1979, has been given a slight make-over by Argentinian designer Alfredo Häberli who has reinterpreted the original structure to create seven different models. Working with steel and PVC, Häberli elongated, shortened and widened the Spaghetti Chair, creating seven different variations of the famous seat though always maintaining the design spirit of the original chair. Le Bon Marché 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

Spaghetti Chair © Maurizio Cavallasca

Take a (Spaghetti) Seat

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Shopping Fashion

Jump into Spring Photographer: Marc Martinon Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Make-Up and Hair Stylist: Julie Mandin Model: Léa N from DMA Photographer’s Assistant: Pierre-Hugo Rabier Fashion & Production Editor: Sandra Iskander

Pas de Calais silk top; Talbot Runhof skirt; Printemps belt; LK Bennett shoes; Paula Cademartori leather clutch bag (Available at Le Bon Marché)

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Escada printed pants; Ilaria Nistri striped shirt; Talbot Runhof shoes and clutch bag; Miu Miu sunglasses; Goralska ring

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Bimba Y Lola flared pants and printed shirt; Robert Clergerie platform shoes; Tom Ford sunglasses; Azzaro bag

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Zuhair Murad dress; Azzedine Alaïa belt Sergio Rossi shoes (Available at Le Bon Marché)

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Claudie Pierlot crochet top; Forte Forte pants; Essentiel Antwerp shoes; Hugo Matha clutch bag; Prada sunglasses; Adeline Cacheux gold and silver bracelets

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SHOPPING Beauty

Colourful Nails At Libertine’s spring/summer 2016 runway show it was all about colourful and graphic nail art, which was courtesy of CND and now you too can nail the trend of colourful manicures this season with Alessandro’s Striplac kit. The peel off nail polish is a convenient varnish that goes on like any other nail polish but what sets it apart is that once you are ready for a colour change all you need to do is peel it off. This a great polish for when you are getting ready to travel because as it lasts for weeks and doesn’t chip you won’t have to worry about booking yourself in for a manicure while seeing the beautiful sites of the French capital. Available at Sephora

While travelling it’s always difficult to keep up with your daily skincare routine, but we have now found the perfect combination to replace your evening ritual while jetsetting around the globe, Foreo’s Luna Skincare brush and Bioeffect’s night serum. Not only will the Luna cleanse your skin but it will also work to reduce the signs of fine lines. All you need to do is apply your cleanser before wetting the Luna and then use it to cleanse your face. Gently exfoliating your skin and unclogging your pores, the Luna will improve the absorption of your skincare products. Follow up with Bioeffect’s serum, this miracle EGF serum, which is made up of only 7 ingredients, is a cellularactivating serum that aims to restore, rehydrate and rejuvenate the appearance of your skin. With no need to apply a night cream after and because you can also use it on the contour of your eyes, the serum cuts down your night-time ritual to less than half the time, becoming your best travel buddy friend. And because both products are suitable for both ladies and gentlemen you can even save on your packing. Foreo’s Luna Skincare brush is available at Sephora while the Bioeffect Serum is available at Colette.

Luna Brush Photo © Foreo

Travel Beauty Buddies

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ph.alessandrobencini.com

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat, Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel. +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 - Fax: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 19 www.angelacaputi.com

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories

children’s clothing & toys

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Alfred Dunhill - 15 rue de la Paris (2nd), 01.42.61.57.58. M° Opéra Cinabre - 20 rue d’Hauteville (10th), M° Bonne Nouvelle Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V S.T. Dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Emmanuel Levain - 4 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.23.39.91. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Jovoy Paris - 4 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.40.20.06.19. M° Tuileries Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. M° Pont Neuf Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

Gucci Watches

| Jewellery & Watches

01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries Tartine et Chocolat - 24 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.42.10.68. M° Opéra Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

clothing: Men & WoMen BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. M° Madeleine Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.84.52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Ines de la Fressange - 18 rue Commines (3rd), 01.42.76.90.23. M° Filles du Calvaire Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra

Cinabre

Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Mettez - 12 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.65.33.76. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.17.05.73. M° Pyramides Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine

depArtMent stores & shopping centres Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1er), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

eye WeAr Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th),

01.44.07.04.28. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

Italia Independent - 47 rue du Four (6th) ,

01.42.22.40.34. M° Saint-Sulpice Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

hoMe Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Boutique Talents - 26 ave Niel (17th),

01.44.40.22.80. M° Pereire/Ternes

| Accessories

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shopping

Address Book

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

Jewellery & watches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - Hôtel The Peninsula, 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Kléber de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra

Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon, 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

lINGerIe Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

luGGaGe aNd baGs Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine

Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine

Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal

Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st),

09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V

Tumi

| Luggage and Bags

Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde

Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tumi - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30.M° Concorde

multI-braNd boutIques By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° George V

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th),

01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Camper - 1 rue du Cherche Midi (6th),

01.45.48.22.00. M° Saint-Sulpice Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. M° George V Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Tous Bijoux

| Jewellery & Watches

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LUXURY MAP

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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RUE D

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

S

•Anne Fontaine

LA

RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

T H U R IN

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling DE

RUE DU MONT-THABOR

ES MA

NORÉ

AVE NU E GA BR IEL

AU

ROQ

Marella

RD

R U E CA ST

Église de la Madeleine

•Longchamp

• Chanel

• Eres • Swarovski

VA

• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2• Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje •

RUE TRONCHET

Wempe

ULE

RUE DE RIVOLI

Césaire•

MADELEINE

BO

Valentino •

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

L ’A R C

Escales

Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci • • • Ralph Lauren

Marina Rinaldi Lancaster • •G. Lotti Kenzo• • Max Mara

Michael Kors • Mulberry •

Yamamoto

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

RUE DE SURÈNE

CONCORDE

Prada

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

• Royal Poiray Quartz

•• •

Ch

RUE ROYALE

• Yohji

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

• •

Lanvin

Jardin des Tuileries

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

RUE

S

Lanvin La Perla

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

Place de la Concorde

38 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 75 39 35 www.gratiannebascans.com

SHOP STOP

ED

RG

DH

RU

O AST

BLV

INE

NT-HO

AB

S

UÉP

RU E DE DU RA

MANN

EL

ÉS

ROQ

IE

C

E

ÉR

RU

RU

AC

RUE

SA

B AM

• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • •Bally •Blumarine •Burberry Capelstore • Hogan • Ermenegildo Zegna U Salvatore Ferragamo ’A N J O RUE D Lancôme • • • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Glashütte Original • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • • Chanel • Crockett Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S • A UE P Cartier • R Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •

GRATIANNE BASCANS Like any work of art, Gratianne Bascans creations are limited editions. The family story began in 1830 and the house embodies French elegance. The bags are fashioned in the finest leather by highly gifted craftsmen.

R D H A U SS

Miss• Griffes

IE

ESN

RE

• Loriblu

IL

B O U LE VA

EL

OM

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES US

ESN

IL

RU

MIR

OM

IE

ESN

IÈV

SHOP STOP

OM

TH

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

MIR

EN

RU

E ED

SA

Élysée Palace

RU

E ED

EP

16 rue Royale - Paris 8 Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr th

MIR

ED

RU

E ED

RU

Pierre Cardin

UE

É

OÉT

Azzaro • Vhernier • E F.P. Journe

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

EN

SS

Gratianne Bascans

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

AV

ON

CA

AB

AVE NUE DE MATIGN

L DE

CIER

EL

Steiger

PER

NUE

RU

IRQU

IE

WEMPE

DU C

OÉT

RUE

AB

MATIGNON

Puiforcat

EL

Richard Mille Cifonelli E

• VENUE D•

MIROMESNIL

• Emanuel Berg • Sothys

RU

A

Leica •

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

36  WHERE Pa r i s I M AR C H 2016

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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms worldwide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual oneof-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

rist Ch

ofle •

CONCORDE

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai

Gucci

RUE SAINT-FLOREN TIN

MADELEINE

RUE ROYALE • •Vertu Wempe • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara

LA

MA DE

an

el

LEI

Ch

NE

UL

EV

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

• AV

ÉR

A

• De Fursac

Acaba •

L’O

ais

RUE RICHELIEU

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • • RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO

• • • •

• •

• Galerie Véro-Dodat

’AB

• • •

All Saints Y’s

R

Christian Louboutin

Hartford

KI

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

OU

by Terry Xavier Lust

Maje

ED

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

PS

Espace Cachemire

Musée du Louvre

Co

Pie r

re Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE VIVIENNE

RU

3-15 Galerie de Montpensier - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 40 15 07 98 M° Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre www.amber-paris.com

UE

’OP

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

LA MAISON DE L’AMBRE In the very heart of historic Paris this unique specialized amber store pleasantly surprises you with its diverse and exceptional designs of amber jewelry. All items are made exclusively of highquality natural amber.

EN

L DE

• PYRAMIDES

on de id l’ •Q ier Lu Amb re ee do •G lin t ab rie lle Ge pp er t

E

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•D

PALAIS ROYAL

•M

AV

Printemps du Louvre

DE

ES

SHOP STOP

E NU

Opéra Garnier

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

CIN

ONORÉ

Frey Wille

PU

RUE DE LA PA IX

Lamarthe

•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

CA

Vendôme

RUE SAINT ROCH

•Cotélac

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

12 blvd de la Madeleine - Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 68 88 00 www.zwilling.com

ES

Place

Goyard •

•Dubail

The Kooples •

DD

RUE S A IN T -H

This German house has been producing premium kitchenware for nearly three centuries. Stainless steel knives and cookware, cast iron cocottes as well as fine flatware collections are among the offerings for consumers who seek the authentic and emotional experience of cooking and taste. Quality and functionality are the hallmarks of the house.

AR

RUE DE RIVOLI

BO

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

IG LI ON E

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES •Stuart Weitzman Perrin • •Balenciaga • Akillis Manoush • Montagut Kiehl’s • • Place du Marché • St-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Jo Malone Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • •Bonpoint Peuterey • •Paraboot La Prairie •

ZWILLING

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

• Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren • Max&Moi • • RU E CA MB ON • • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • •Jimmy Choo Messika• • Hervé Tommy • Coach Léger Morabito• Hilfinger • Viktor&Rolf Chloé• •Emporio Armani Ports • Jamin •Dior DsQuared2 • Puech • Miki House Tumi• •Omega Arije Bally • J.M. • • Wine Weston Chopard RU E CA ST by One •

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

SHOP STOP

•Eres • Swarovski

Marella

Le Jacquard Français

Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje• Parakian Paris •RU E

RUE TRONC HET

Église de la Madeleine

DE

Césaire

Dior

••

VD

• Oliver Grant

BL

RUE DE RIVOLI

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

Jardin des Tuileries

•Lanvin •La Perla •Prada Chanel •Pinko

RUE ROYALE

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

Burberry

Place de

RUE DU FBG ST-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

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LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées-Montaigne

SHOP STOP Arc de Triomphe

AVENUE KLÉBER

U CEA EM AR AV EN U

U

E AV

AVE

NUE

EA RC

A

EM

NU

Kenzo

• •

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RRE

IS 1 ER

•Tom Ford CHARRO N • Zilli Guy Laroche • Kiton RUE • • Smalto MA Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain • Karl Lagerfeld• Courrèges Zadig&Voltaire • • Wine by One • • Bonbon Watch • Pink• AN Lampe EUF

ÉMO

OCCA

ILLE

RUE

MARCEAU Valentino Paul&Joe • • AVENUE• Harry Giorgio Armani MO Winston Prada• • NTAIGN • Bottega Veneta • E • MaxMara Giorgio Armani Nina Ricci • • Louis Vuitton

IGN E MAR

RUE D

Berger Paris

Maison Ullens

RU EJ EA NG OU JO N

RU

PORT DE LA CO

EJ

EA

NK

NG

OU JO N

A

VEN

RUE

DE B

ERR

•M.A.C. •Levi’s • Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany LA B

I

OÉT

IE

•Comptoirs

Elysées Horlogerie

de Paris

• Versace Dior • • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo Caron NUE M • Akris • ON Chanel Givenchy TA • Chanel • IGNE • • Fendi Dinh • Céline Chloé• • Van • Saint Laurent Loewe •• Pucci •• •• Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R RA UE F

WA

• Marionnaud Paris • Marks&Spencer

RUE

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

A TR

DU B

•Graf ALMA

DE L

DOR

By Marie&Gas Bijoux

PIE

Sicis •

ANÇO

Emmanuel Levain RUE

•RB

RUE MA

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

RUE DE PONTHIEU

SHOP STOP

•Balenciaga

RUE FR

AV

4 rue Marbeuf – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 39 91 www.emmanuel-levain.com

RUE BALZAC

GEORGE V Louis • IKKS • Vuitton J.M. Weston

Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S Omega • EOR ERB UE G IE N Eric Bompard• E AV Brioni • Bvlgari Dubail Ellie • Longchamp • • • Saab U Leonard Waskoll Zegna •Ulysse Nardin • CEA • • R • Christofle Creed MA Altan Bottier UE • EN •Les Suites • AV Arije• • • • Cartier Givenchy Audemars Versace Scabal • • Chaumet Kusmi • Tea • Piguet Arije •EORGE V Beretta EG RUE Dubail • Paraboot Paule Ka ENU •

Step into the exceptional world of this house devoted to fine and fragrant scents. The Paris boutique of this brand - founded in Geneva carries perfumes, scented candles and home fragrances designed for well-being and serenity.

• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical • Milady

SHOP STOP

EMMANUEL LEVAIN

ND

11 rue Lincoln - Paris 8th Tel: 01 45 63 77 59 www.altan-bottier.com

Montblanc

A EDL

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

• Cartier

FRI

Lancel •

DE

Publicis Drugstore •

Superb quality, fine craftsmanship and personalisation are the hallmarks of this house of made-to-measure shoes for both men and women. The house creates, as well, a fine line of ready-to wear models among them derbies, moccasins and sneakers. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm.

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

NA

D’IÉ

NUE AVE

ALTAN BOTTIER

NUE

AVE

AVENUE D’IÉNA

RU

ED

UC

O

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver •Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

ATIG

NON

NFÉRENCE

MASSEY LIMOUSINES Since 1948, this company has been transporting passengers in style. The fleet of chauffeur-driven cars includes a wide selection of Mercedes-Benz. Perfect for airport transfers, day trips and getting around in Paris.

KLIN RAN UE F N E AV

LT EVE OOS D.R

Grand Palais

Tel: +33(0)1 58 05 13 00 www.limomassey.com 40  WHERE Pa r i s I M AR C H 2016

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LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain

SHOP STOP

E AU V

E

DU B

AI

RUE

DE B

QU

ITÉ

DE

LIL

RE

LE

NEU

IL

TS-P

VER

ÉRES

E E AU N

Maje •

DE

RUE

DE B

RUE

Ofée . •

RUE

SAIN

RS

LTA I

AC

IVE

RUE

Renaissance •

Moissonnier

VO

RUE

Hartwood •

DES

Poltrona Frau • Silvera

Deyrolle • C

The Kooples • Bowen •

Escales •

RU

UL

EV

AR

TS-P

GON

DRA

ES

ER

NES

CH

REN

DU

E

ARN

E

Jamin • Puech

ES SA RU E D’OD

RU

RUE PRI NCE SSE

E

DE

RUE

L’A R

RI

DE

E

ASS

RUE MAD AME

NTP

NES

MO

RU E BO NA PA RT E

▼ DU

REN

BVD

RUE MÉZ

RUE SERVANDONI

RUE

DE

RU

RUE DES CANETTES

CH

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

LE

A IS E

EL

ENN

EN

RUE

GR

61 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 02 69 78 www.lampeberger.fr

S PA IL ARD RA

As beautiful as it is useful for exhaling a cleaner and more fragrant air, the Lampe Berger is available in an incredible variety of styles, designs and materials in order to meet every individual’s desires.The collection today is made up of around a fifty lamps and fragrances.

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

RUE MA BIL LON

DE

DU

E

BOULEV

• Wolford

LAMPE BERGER PARIS

Gab&Jo

OB

R TE

ER

RU

SHOP STOP

T-G

Edward Green • Aubercy

S PA IL ARD RA

18 rue Mabillon - Paris 6th Tel: 01 46 34 39 72 www.lemontsaintmichel.fr

EJ AC

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

LE MONT SAINT MICHEL

RU

Francis Klein • Faienceries •• de Gien Zadig & Voltaire Emaux de MA Karl Lagerfeld Longwy • IN • Fabrice • • Vignes Creations Poiray Inédit Joaillier • Liu Jo BO Christian • ULE • Façonnable Ke RUE • Cremieux • • VA R Louboutin nz DE L Louis DS Pau o• • ’A B • Agent AIN B AY Ralph l Sm Walter Vuitton T-G E Provocateur Lauren • i t E Steiger h• l’A R • • M • AIN The Slowear Pa rtisa Brunello Cucinelli rfu n • Store me Burberry Hugo SAINT-GERMAIN ur • Voyeurs • • Paul Smith • Boss DES-PRÉS Paul & Joe• • Shadé • • • Césarée L.K. Cartier • Céline • Ventilo Bennett Lancel • Ferragamo Rolex• Carven • MABILLON • Dinh Van • •Theory Hackett• Mabille Alexis • Montblanc • Crockett & Jones • Kenzo • Robert • Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Clergerie UR Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • Vicomte A • UE DU FOSilk & • R • Sportmax• Marina Cashmere • • Tod’s Prada Rinaldi • Max&Moi La Perla Alain Mikli • • R•UE DU FOUR IKKS • Durance Dot-Drops M.A.C.• •Repetto • Le Mont Implicite Omega Lampe S Berluti • • • Berger Paris Saint Saint Michel ÉVRE • DE S Swatch • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R Agnès b • Laurent • Longines •Derhy Camper • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE • SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp • Courreges • Hermès Robert • ULPICE Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S & Voltaire • My Tokki ES Le Bon VR SÉ Marché • Rowena E • Forrest D E Église Saint-Sulpice RU • Guerlain IÉR ES

Established in 1913, Le Mont Saint Michel is a genuine French label, designed by Alexandre Milan. The shops, featuring interesting, emerging articles offer a large selection of garments and accessories for men and women, all made from the very best quality yarns and fabrics. Our stories and style are inspired by French lifestyle and modern design .

Debauve & Gallais •

• John Lobb Bang DS • & Olufsen AI N

SAIN

BO

Elsa

• Vanier

DES

RUE DU BAC

Cassina

RUE

ÉRES

SHOP STOP

RUE FÉROU

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.mydotdrops.com

• Aga

BA

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

LE

ED U

DOT-DROPS

®

ED EL ’UN

LIL

DU B

RU

DE

RUE

RUE

AC

Musée d’Orsay

MONTPARNASSEBIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V D E DG A

RQ

UIN

VAU G RUE DE

IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

ET

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Guerlain •

BOU

S

OY AUR

ON

EM OT D CAUM

RUE

ARTI

N

GOD

RUE

Golfino

I AR D VI

• • Talents • •

R U E ÈD OU

Montblanc

Tag Heuer

EL OU

U

RU

DES

Tommy Hilfiger

NO

N

DA

BO

E

Waskoll A. Lange Omega • • Christofle & Söhne Hackett • • Repetto E U Mauboussin R • Lalique Cartier • Harrison Diesel Piaget • • Hugo Boss • Bodum Panerai • IX •Dinh Van Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Alexander McQueen Wine by One • Van Cleef • L A •Fred E • Breitling • Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D• Jaquet Emporio Armani Droz U R • Cartier Anshindo • Dior Bvlgari Dubail • • Harry Winston Miki House • •Vacheron Constantin •• • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger•Boucheron • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Tumi • S A Kusmi • Blancpain N O Tea VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED Frey Wille Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché ES Voltaire PE • Saint-Honoré TIT M CA

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

ON

AN

-H

TIN

NT

RU

T LLE JUI

L HU EM É

IÉR

H S

Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

Acaba RU

ET HÉ

SE

RU

É

29

OR

ED U

S

OC

E RU DE MI

ES

ED

ON

RU

-H

ER

NT

LG

PY

AI

D’A

RA

ES

E

MP

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

RU

RU

HA

T-R

SO

SA

IN

LA

DE

E

RU

ED

RU

É

EC

AS

OR

TI

ON

GL

-H

IO

NE

NT

UD

AI

247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com

S-C

E

ES

Montagut • Church’s • • Dodo RU Moynat Richard • ED H.Stern • U M Grand • ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka HA Piquadro • BO R • •Valérie Danenberg • • Jovoy Missoni Malone ••JoM.A.C • • Frank Namani Bonpoint • Colette Perrin • Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

RU

É

RU

E

OR

With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

Boggi

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

AI

DSQUARED

2

Lancel

• • • Samsonite • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty •Basler

• • • IKKS

Bally

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

D

•Gant • •

• Episode

Bucherer

RU

J.M. Weston•

ES

SHOP STOP

RUE MOG ADOR

• Fragonard

AN

VIGN RUE

Sephora

RUE BOUDREA U

GR

CH ON TR E

R

RU

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

RU

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

Opéra Garnier

Mario Dessuti

•Zwilling

INS

RUE

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

HUR

• Loding

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

BUCHERER PARIS

MAT

Exaltation

Le Tanneur

MADELEINE

DES

BE

• Fauchon

Église de la Madeleine

RUE

U EA

Paraboot•

CE

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

RU

SHOP STOP

LEV

Andrea

T

LE

URIN

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

IS

ATH

Galeries Lafayette Homme

IBE

ES M

P R O V EN

ES CR

DE CA RU ED

RU

’AR

ET

R

UE

L DE

RUE DE

VICTOIRE

ADOR

HAVRECAUMARTIN

LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T

Printemps Mode

Printemps Beauté-Maison

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references. 40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Printemps Homme

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

Galeries du Diamant •

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

E

Passage du Havre

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LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

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19 rue de Turenne, Paris 4th Tel : +33 (0)1 42 72 04 00 www.argenteriedeturenne.com

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Le BHV Marais

This elegant shop carries carefully chosen fine antique French silverware. Superb objects like knives, forks and spoons that have traveled through the centuries are found here side by side with tea services, unusual objects and cutlery sets from leading silversmiths.

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7 rue des Blancs-Manteaux - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 71 76 76 www.franciskurkdjian.com

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96 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 86 07 www.lemontsaintmichel.fr

Our fragrance house, eponymous of one of the most celebrated perfumers of our time, offers a full collection of fine fragrances, sketched like an olfactive wardrobe. Our creations are crafted with attention to details and in the purest heritage of luxury French perfumery.

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Established in 1913, Le Mont Saint Michel is a genuine French label, designed by Alexandre Milan. The shops, featuring interesting, emerging articles offer a large selection of garments and accessories for men and women, all made from the very best quality yarns and fabrics. Our stories and style are inspired by French lifestyle and modern design .

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Turn to page 50 to drink wine at the Louvre

Photo © Caves du Louvre

Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours

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Exhibitions

Being Barbie

Picture from Barbie’s Instagram account @Barbistyle, 2015 © Mattel; Andy Warhol, Philip Fagan et Gerard Malanga, New York, 1964Photo © Estate Ugo Mulas, Milano - Courtesy Galleria Lia Rumma, Milano / Napoli

Photo © Caves du Louvre

arts&attractions

She was launched with her very own story, born in Wisconsin, Barbara Millicent Roberts has a family and a group of friends, notably her boyfriend Ken who has become nearly as famous as Barbie herself, and she has successively embodied a high school pupil, a university student, a nurse, a flight attendant and some 150 other professions, including a palaeontologist and a computer scientist. Now, the magical and iconic world of Barbie, who has made an indelible mark on the history of toys in the 20th and 21st century, is unfolding at the Musée des Art Décoratifs. The show brings together 700 Barbie dolls, including the very first in the now famous black and white striped onepiece swimsuit, and gowns from the museum’s collection and works by contemporary artists along with documents and videos. The show, which draws on Mattel’s extensive archives, is a journey for both children, with the spaces presenting the universally-known toy, and for adults by placing Barbie in her historical and sociological contexts since 1959. From March 10 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 55 57 50

Portraits in Time The first solo exhibition of the photographs of Ugo Mulas, a major figure of 20th century Italian photography, is being held at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, paying homage to an artist who captured for eternity the art world in Italy and the United States in the 1960s. Known for both his portrait and street photography, he was the official photographer of the Venice Biennale starting in 1954 and went on to document the Italian and New York art scene of the 1960’s capturing indelibly the leading artists of the time including Andy Warhol, Marcel Duchamp, Alexander Calder and Jasper Johns. The exhibition, entitled La Photographie, features some 60 black and white vintage prints and brings together the photography Ugo Mulas selected for publication in his mythical book, La Fotografia, in which he analysed the art of his time and made portraits of artists with whom he associated while they conceived their works. 2 Impasse Lebouis (14th), 01 56 80 27 00 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  45

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Olwen Forest

arts&attractions Exhibitions

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

Galerie Taménaga IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Kyosuke TCHINAI Exhibition: 24th of March-14th of April Opening Night: 24th of March

Norman Evasions Kyosuke TCHINAI / Cerisier sous la lune MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Gris, Klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano 18 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

In the 19th century a new pictorial genre emerged, outdoor landscape painting, which originated in England and would cross over to the continent where Normandy would become the place of predilection for the painters who worked in the open-air. The region’s beautiful and diverse landscapes, intense and varied light, rich architectural heritage and a fashion for sea bathing made Normandy the preferred studio of the Impressionists, among them Monet, Degas, Renoir, Pissarro and Sisley. The Musée Jacquemart-André, in an exhibition entitled The Open-Air Studio, Impressionists in Normandy, is presenting some 50 prestigious works from major private and institutional collections retracing the history of Impressionism from its precursors to the great masters. From March 18th 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59

Gustave Caillebotte (1848-1894), Régates en mer Villerville-Trouville, vers 1884, Toledo, Museum of Art ; Gift of The Wildenstein Foundation, 1953.69 © Photograph Incorporated, Toledo; Eugène-Louis Boudin (1824-1898), Scène de plage à Trouville, Collection particulière, Courtesy Galerie de la Présidence, Paris © Galerie de la Présidence, Paris

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

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ARTS&ATTRACTIONS Exhibitions

The city’s Museum of Natural History is showcasing one of the splendid wonders of the natural world, orchids, in two exhibitions. For the show, A Thousand and One Orchids, some 100 species of wild orchids are being presented in the museum’s desert species greenhouse along with a display explaining the museums scientific studies into this extraordinary family. Meanwhile, the Botanical Garden of the city of Paris and the Luxembourg Garden have loaned some of their rare and secret specimens to be exhibited at the show, while four leading orchid producers are presenting exceptional specimens. An extraordinary collection of 70 vellums of orchids from the museum’s historic collections, exhibited on the gates of the School of Botany, are also being shown to the public for the very first time. Painted from the 17th to the 19th century they are of an utmost scientific precision while being works of art in and of themselves. Orchids through to March 7 Vellums through to May 22 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01 40 79 54 79 WHERE 181x132 V1.pdf

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ANTIQUES & ARTS OF THE XXTH CENTURY

11/20 MARCH 2016 www.foi r e d e c h a t o u . c o m

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March 2016 Partner

/ art-et-communication.fr / Photo : Sébastien Siraudeau

GALERIES D’ART PRODUITS DU TERROIR

Daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. / On-site EXPERTS / Admission 6 €

Free shuttle from Rueil-Malmaison station [RER A] / VALET SERVICE TRANSPORTEURS OFFICIELS • OFFICIAL CARRIERS Agrément métropole et international - 92ème Foire de Chatou

Code identifiant : 26698AF

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arts&attractions Royal Wine Cellar

The world of wine unfolds at Les Caves du Louvre, a new venue that is both a museum and an interactive educational experience devoted to reaching out to the five senses. Located in the heart of Paris just a minute’s walk from the Louvre, the former royal wine cellar has been transformed into a total wine experience. You can wend your way through a maze of rooms and you can even create your very own blend. The Touch Room takes you into the good earth of France while the Sense of Smell Room offers up 42 aromas perceived from large wooden corks then it’s on to the Taste Room, which explores wine tastes and grape varieties. Meanwhile, the Hearing Room rings forth with wine-related sounds and a visual feast of colours is served up in the Sight Room. You can enjoy a tasting at the end of the visit. 52 rue de l’Arbre Sec (1st), 01 76 44 00 31

Photo © Caves du Louvre

The Wonders of Wine

Wabé, L’oiseau vert © Laurent Zylberman - design : stéréo buro

EXHIBITION _

L’ Atelier 55 avenue Daumesnil, Paris 12e

5 FEBRUARY 16 APRIL 2016 www.ateliersdart.com

Galerie Collection 4 rue de Thorigny, Paris 3e

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paris vintage fair presents

Space Age The futuristic vision of the ‘60/’70’s designers

MARCH 2016

Saturday, 12th from 11 am to 8 pm Sunday, 13th from 11 am to 7 pm

L’ Officiel de la Mode/ Guegan 1969

2000 m2 of shopping 150 exhibitors / 6€

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arts&attractions Monuments

Palais Garnier - Opéra de Paris

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily

9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-15.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 8.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own,10am-4:30pm (adults 10€, students and

under 25, 6€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (14.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5pm. www.sacrecoeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

Photo © 2013 Thinkstock – iStock

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

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EXCEPTIONAL EXHIBITION OF DRAWINGS FROM THE PUSHKIN STATE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS IN MOSCOW International Lectures of the Salon du dessin: From David to Delacroix. From painting to drawing 12 pm to 8 pm Late night opening on 31 March until 10 pm

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris art galleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Canesso

This gallery has a fine selection of Old Master and Italian paintings. Its museum-quality works date from the Renaissance to the 18th century. A host of themes are found in the paintings ranging from religion and mythology to landscapes and portraits. 26 rue Laffitte (9th), 01.40.22.61.71. M°Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Pavillons de Bercy | Attractions

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Parc Zoologique de Paris

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Yachts de Paris

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

day trips Château de Fontainebleau

A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

boat cruises

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open TueSun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Bateaux Parisiens

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm-5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

guided tours L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy

Batobus | Boat Cruises

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arts&attractions

Address Book

tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Your American Friend in Paris

Terrance Gelenter will show you a Paris au Flaneur you’ve never seen before. Choose the Classic program or let him customize an itinerary. 06.70.98.13.68. www.paris-expat.com

museums & fondations Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Espace Dali

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Fondation Louis Vuitton

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Musée Carnavalet

A wonderful museum of Paris history in two adjoining 16th and 17th-century private mansions in the Marais. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. Tue-Sun 10am- 6pm. 23 rue de Sévigné (3rd), 01.44.59.58.58. M° Saint-Paul

Musée d’Orsay

©MNHN - Stéphane Jounot

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Quai Branly

An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais | Museums & Fondations

Musée Marmottan Monet

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Musée National Picasso

A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. TueSun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

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The Guide

dining

Contemporary French | Asian Cuisine | Steak Houses | Upmarket Deli | Juice Bar

Tuck into steak and wine at Atelier Vivanda. Turn to page 58 to find more of the city’s best steak houses

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dining

Restaurants

Fare with a View After five years under renovations Café de l’Homme has finally reopened its doors inviting diners to a contemporary French menu with classic favourites and the best view in the city. It always offered the best address for dining alfresco, in warmer weather and even during the cooler months, because of its incomparable view of the Eiffel Tower, and now that it has reopened the Café de l’Homme has regained its top spot for the best table with a view. Its location isn’t the only pull though with the cuisine here refined and delicious thanks to Michelin-starred chef Frédéric Vardon signing off on the menu that is executed by chef Mickaël Foubert. Start with the organic vegetable velouté or the poached foie gras from Landes served with pear and quince, follow with the creamy mushroom risotto or perhaps opt for the beef rib for two served with crispy French fries. If you have room for dessert don’t miss the roasted apple served whole on a sugar tart and drizzled with salted caramel. Another bonus point goes to Café de l’Homme for being open daily from midday to 2am, with a brasserie-style menu offered between lunch and dinner. - S.I. 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 44 05 30 15

Ginger © JP SALLE

An Asian Inspiration Recently renovated and with new owners, Ginger recently reopened to the joys of its regular chic diners. Located within the French capital’s Golden Triangle, Ginger is open daily for lunch and dinner and is frequented by socialites and fashion people who work nearby or frequently shop at the neighbouring upscale boutiques. A contemporary décor complete with a feature wall of luscious green leaves, invites patrons to sample the Asian-inspired menu, which includes dishes such as the spicy Weeping Tiger Beef and Vietnamese rice paper rolls, the only surprise here is that there are few vegetarian options. - S.I. 11 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01 47 23 37 32 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  57

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dining

Restaurants

Where’s the Best Beef in Paris? By Alexander Lobrano

T

he French have always loved beef, so it’s not surprising American-style steakhouse restaurants are suddenly taking Paris by storm. Parisians almost invariably come to the table as demanding connoisseurs, however, so the meat-andpotatoes formula that works a charm in the U.S. or the U.K. often has to be tweaked to suit French tastes. When it comes to a meaty feast in France, the main difference is that while the English-speaking world goes into a swoon over tender beef, the priority of Paris beef-lovers is character, or a distinctive signature flavour. The French also prefer more mache, or texture, in their meat, finding the soft-as-butter steaks beloved of the English-speaking world a little bit insipid. The provenance of beef on Paris steakhouse menus usually varies more than it does in other cities, too. The breeds of French beef you’re most likely to see mentioned on a Paris menu are Aubrac, Blonde d’Aquitaine, Charolais, Limousin, Montbéliard and Salers, with the French having a particular affection for Aubrac, Charolais and Salers. Otherwise, you’ll come across beef from Argentina, Ireland, Galicia in Spain, Bavaria in Germany, and Britain, and occasionally Australia, Japan and the United States. Where the beef is sourced depends upon what gastronomic experience a given restaurant is seeking to offer. “Great beef has a lot in common with great wine,” says star butcher Hugo Desnoyer. “Like wine, beef offers a powerful experience of the terroir (land) where the animal was raised,” explains Desnoyer, who runs two of the most prestigious butcher shops in Paris, and who has also just opened a butchershop-restaurant in Tokyo. At the tiny table d’hôtes (communal table) restaurant

Desnoyer runs in his butcher shop in the silk-stocking 16th arrondissement, he serves exclusively French beef, and the cut he recommends, as the quintessential French beef experience is a faux-filet steak, almost the equivalent of a sirloin cut, from the Limousin. Why? “Cooked medium-rare, this superb meat is juicy, full of flavour, mineral rich, and has a lot of sexy texture,” says Desnoyer. Not surprisingly, you have to book well in advance to snap one or two of the dozen or so places at his table d’hotes. Meanwhile, Au Boeuf Couronné, one of the last of the great carnivores’ caves that once dominated La Villette, the quarter where Parisians traditionally went for a meat feast, because the city’s slaughter houses were once located there, is experiencing a renaissance since the opening of the new Philharmonie de Paris concert house. This delightfully fly-in-amber restaurant is just a ten-minute walk from the Philharmonie, and

the service from staff wearing immaculate white aprons is friendly and alert. The regulars always go for the roasted marrow bones with Guérande sea salt and toasted bread, or maybe the onion soup with a cap of cheese melted on a crouton, and then one of the legendary cuts of beef, le pavé des mandataires, le chateaubriand des bidochards or la côte de bœuf (rib steak) for two. Note, too, that this is one of the rare restaurants that still serve a proper tête de veau (calf’s head) with ravigote sauce, and that the profiteroles are excellent. Following a stylish renovation that’s revealed the huge charm of its dining room, Le Moulin de la Galette, which occupies a 17th century windmill in Montmartre and is one of the most popular restaurants in Paris, has also just unveiled a new menu that privileges outstanding beef from Scotland, the U.S., and Argentina, which is cooked on a Spanish-made Josper grill. Start with some

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Le Bon Georges © Francis Hammond; Au Boeuf Maillot © Alban Couturier

escargots, terrine de foie gras de canard or house-smoked organic Irish salmon, and then go for the beef, the Argentine coeur d’entrecôte is exceptionally good. This restaurant is a good choice for meat-lovers dining out with spouses, partners or friends who prefer fish or fowl, too, since scallops in Maltaise sauce, cod roasted with thyme, and wild duck with cabbage are also on the menu. And don’t miss the chocolate mousse or the organic lemon meringue tart for dessert. In a similar vein, another delightful restaurant that’s a superb destination for meat-lovers but which also makes those who prefer fish or vegetables happy is the very popular bistro Le Bon Georges in the heart of the very stylish 9th arrondissement in the centre of Paris. Owner Benoit Duval speaks perfect English for having once worked for the French branch of America’s famous Campbell’s Soup Company, and he’s a warm and attentive host at this handsome pair of dining rooms with antique signs and bentwood chairs. Duval’s treat for meatlovers is the remarkable beef raised by farmer Alexandre Polmard in the Meuse region of Lorraine in eastern France. Polmard’s specialty is Blonde d’Aquitaine beef, and his meat is so sought-after that you have to call ahead and reserve a Polmard côte de boeuf (rib steak) with Benoit in advance. Otherwise, start with the watercress soup with goat-cheese topped croutons or razor shell clams in garlic sauce, go for the beef or the fish of the day, and don’t miss the Barvarois aux marrons for dessert. Vinophiles should be aware that Benoit also has a terrific wine list. In the Porte Maillot neighbourhood, where many business travellers find themselves, the recently opened Le Boeuf Maillot is an excellent choice for a relaxing meal on your own or an easy-going business meal with a colleague. At this friendly restaurant decorated with antique metal signs, chef Ludovic Schwartz, who trained with Joël Robuchon, has created an appealing high-quality comfortfood menu that delivers a solidly good feed. Choose one of the good value formulas at 28 euros or 35 euros, and then decide on your beef from an international offer that includes France, Ireland, Bavaria and the U.S. All cuts of beef come with a selection of sauces, including Chimichurri and Béarnaise. Further proof of the trendiness of a good steak in Paris right now is the miniature chain

Opposite page: Au Boeuf Maillot; Clockwise from top left: Le Boeuf Maillot; Le Bon Georges; Le Moulin de la Galette

of steakhouses created by chef Akrame Benallal, who won two Michelin stars for his eponymous restaurant in the 16th arrondissement, which will be closing soon, and who now has several Atelier Vivanda steakhouses. He also just opened a branch of his steakhouse concept in Hong Kong. In Paris, the one that’s most agreeable is the address in the Marais, a popular neighbourhood that’s always needing more good restaurants. Benallal’s restaurant on the busy Rue des Archives is run by chef Anthony Grange, who was formerly sous-chef to Laetitia Rouabah at the venerable Saint-Germain-des-Prés bistro Allard. The 35-euro prix-fixe menu has made this place a hit, and it offers not only American Black Angus steak, hamburgers and côte de boeuf Holstein, but delicious duck terrine to start, wonderful garnishes like dauphinois or darphin potatoes, and some excellent desserts, including orange-water-flavoured flan with jasmine ice-cream.

Atelier Vivanda 82 rue des Archives (3rd), 01 42 71 4 07 www.ateliervivanda.com

Au Boeuf Couronné 188 ave Jean-Jaures (19th), 01 42 39 44 44 www.boeuf-couronne.com

Le Boeuf Maillot 99 ave des Ternes (17th), 01 45 74 10 57

Le Bon Georges 45 rue Saint Georges (9th), 01 48 78 40 30 www.lebongeorges.com

Le Moulin de Galette 83 rue Lepic (18th), 01 46 06 84 77 www.lemoulindelagalette.fr

La Table d’Hotes d’Hugo Desnoyer 28 rue du Docteur Blanche (16th), 01 46 47 83 00 www.hugodesnoyer.com w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  59

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dining

Restaurants

On the Rum Road By Patricia Valicenti

I

t is a libation of legend that has appealed to the Royal Navy, seafarers, notably pirates, and the American writer Ernest Hemingway who enjoyed rum Saint James from Martinique in the pages of his ode to Paris, A Moveable Feast. Rhum agricole or cane juice rum distilled from straight cane juice, rather than the more frequently used molasses, is particularly favoured in France. Traditionally distilled in the French Caribbean islands, some of the best known come from Martinique where the Rhum Agricole rums have been granted an AOC or a controlled label of origin and where producers are constantly innovating. Saint James for example last year celebrated its 250th anniversary with a special reserve limited edition rhum blending five, six and sevenyear old rums. The Depaz VSOP Special Reserve rum, brought out by Dugas, was aged for six years into a complex aroma of vanilla, santal, plum and dried fruits. Meanwhile, the Martiniquais house of Clément’s V.S.O.P Rhum Agricole Vieux is aged for a minimum of four years in fine oak barrels, which confer upon it a rich mahogany colour. There are a host of places in Paris to sample rum, Caribbean cooking with which it goes so well and quintessential French offerings where rum has slipped into the dishes that have now become classics. One of the best baba au rhums in town is arguably found at Le Train Bleu where the dessert is homemade and flambéed at your table, and mong the fine gourmet treats available from Lenôtre one finds rum-filled chocolates fittingly christened Escapade. For some Creole fare preceded by a rum cocktail or a Ti’Punch (white rum, lime and cane syrup), La Créole restaurant is a journey to the French Caribbean in a colonial

The dining room at Le Train Bleu (above) and the famous Baba au rhum at Le Train Bleu

ambiance where you can savour for instance spicy Creole sausages and for dessert bananas flamed with old rum. Just outside of Paris is La Case de Babette with the celebrated French chef Babette de Rozières at the helm serving up Caribbean cuisine like stuffed crab, chicken boucané, which is smoked, and bananas in syrup flamed with old rum from Guadeloupe. Not to be missed are the old vintage rums for after dinner. One of the more intriguing spots in the French capital is the house of Christian de Montaguère, the largest rum cellar in Europe carrying nearly 1000 carefully selected rums. The house also conducts tastings and three are on the agenda during the month of March. Meanwhile, the familyowned La Rhumerie, serving up countless kinds of rum-based drinks with tasty Creole food, remains a Parisian institution.

Address Book Christian de Montaguère 20 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire (6th), 09 51 89 40 55

Cuba Compagnie Café 48 blvd Beaumarchais (11th), 01 48 06 07 11

La Case de Babette 2 rue Saint-Vincent, 78580 Maule, 01 30 90 38 97

La Créole 122 blvd du Montparnasse (14th), 01 43 20 62 12

Lenôtre 10 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 42 65 85 10

La Rhumerie 166 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 43 54 28 94

Le Train Bleu Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06 From March 21st to March 27th the Cuba Compagnie Café is hosting the first Rhum Club, a fun-filled rum festival featuring tastings of exceptional rums along with Creole treats, Cuban cigars and a warm atmosphere.

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THE CHOCOLATIER OF KINGS AND THE KING OF CHOCOLATIERS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy raspberry or coffee-flavoured ganache. Aficionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange rind Lily shaped gift box

decorated with gold leaves

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 7.30pm

30 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris = Tel: 01 45 48 54 67 = M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 33 rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris = M° Bourse 333 N Bedford Road, Suite 150, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 = Tel: 914 244 89 98

www.debauve-et-gallais.com = www.debauveandgallais.com

181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013 11:46 Page1

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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dining

Restaurants

A Delicious Deli Brand It’s the upmarket deli on the Left Bank that Parisians go to for when they are organising a fancy brunch or a high tea at home and now La Grande Epicerie de Paris has just created its own line of products. Sweet and savoury, the home brand offers everything for your French breakfasts, lunches and dinners, and everything in between. Oils, vinegars, jams, different flavoured butter, sauces and caramels are only some of the delicious items you can now purchase from the gourmet specialist, which make for thoughtful gifts for foodies or an enjoyable souvenir to take back home with you. - S.I. La Grande Epicerie de Paris 38 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 00

2016 is all about juicing and the recently opened Good Organic Only helps you get your juice on thanks to its organic juice line. With no added sugar the juices are 100% organic, with each bottle containing only real fruit and vegetable juice. If you’re after your green juice fix then you will love Wild Garden with apple, kale and spinach, and if you are after a sweeter juice then you must try the High Five, a refreshing mix of mango, passion fruit and ginger that will leave you energised. There are 15 different juices to choose from and are available in the casual eatery as well as at the famous boutique Colette. - S.I. Good Organic Only 17 rue des Archives (4th), 01 40 71 10 03

Good Organic Only © Laurent Rodriguez

Juicy Good

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The abuse of alcohol is dangerous to your health, to be consumed with moderation

Take-away Valet Service Open Daily

www.lebarahuitres.fr

Complementary Glass of Champagne upon presentation of this page SAINT-GERMAIN 33, rue Saint-Jacques 75005 PARIS +33 (0)1 44 07 27 37

PLACE DES VOSGES 33, bd Beaumarchais 75003 PARIS +33 (0)1 48 87 98 92

PLACE DES TERNES 69, av de Wagram 75017 PARIS +33 (0)1 43 80 63 54

The abuse of alcohol is dangerous to your health, to be consumed with moderation

MONTPARNASSE 112, bd du Montparnasse 75014 PARIS +33 (0)1 43 20 71 01

www.legrandbistro.fr

1 7 ÈME

108, avenue de Villiers Paris 75017 +33 (0)1 47 63 32 77

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dining

Restaurant Advertorial

aSHIana

WEPLER

Refined Indian Gastronomy

Traditional french cuisine

4 205 ave Charles-de-Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly Sur Seine (Metro: Pont de Neuilly) 4 Tel: 01 46 24 52 43 4 Open every day, 12pm-2:30pm / 7pm-11:30pm 4 Business Lunch, friendly service, air-conditioned 4 Recommended by several gastronomic guides 4 www.restaurantashiana.com

Steps away from La Défense and Porte Maillot, Ashiana invites you to discover “house” specialties in north Indian tandoori and curries in a charming environment. Excellent address to encounter India since 1986.

LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM

414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18th 4Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: 01 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30e 4Set-menu 24.50e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com

One of the finest French onion soups in the capital, savour crayfish in cherry sauce, lobsters from Brittany, a marmite from Marseille served as a bouillabaisse and the Wepler classics from potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts.

TRUffES fOLIES

Traditional french cuisine

Fine cuisine with truffles

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: 01 45 08 04 10 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

437 rue Malar, Paris 7th / Tel: 01 44 18 05 41 4Metro: Latour Maubourg/ Pont de l’Alma 4Lunch: 12pm to 3pm (except Sunday) 4Dinner: 6:30pm to 9:30pm (except Saturday/Sunday) 4www.truffesfolies.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

Located near the Invalides, the restaurant Truffes Folies welcomes you in an elegant, warm and intimate setting. You will savour a selection of truffle-based dishes (risotto, tagliatelle, foie gras, salads) and regional products. We have carefully selected for you the finest of gourmet products, a large assortment of truffles (black and white) and exceptional foie gras.

LE LOUCHÉBEM

La MaRÉE

Traditional french cuisine

Fish & Seafood cuisine

431 rue Berger, Paris 1st 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles 4Tel: 01 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

41 rue Daru, Paris 8th 4Metro: Etoiles or Courcelles 4Tel: 01 43 80 20 00 4Open every day,12am-2:30pm / 7pm-10:30pm 4www.lamaree.fr 4contact@lamaree.fr

The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

This establishment dedicated to the art of preparing fine fish and seafood is ideally located near the Champs-Elysées (since 1963) in an Art Nouveau building. Every month the chef imagines new dishes in tune with the seasons.

zITI

HD DInER

Italian restaurant

American Cuisine

460 rue Pierre Charron , Paris 8th 4Metro: Franklin Roosevelt 4Tel: 01 45 63 48 48 4Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr

425 boulevard des Italiens, Paris 2nd (Metro: Opéra) 4Open daily / 9am-midnight 4Milkshake happy hour (3pm-7pm) 4American-style brunch / 10 restaurants in Paris 4www.happydaysdiner.com

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes.

Classic Italian specialties are served in this lively eatery off the Champs-Elysées. Starters include a bresaola-based salad and Parma ham aged for 20 months. Homemade pastas are on the agenda with for example linguine in tuna and tomato sauce.

Prepare yourself for a delicious journey back in time, enjoying American dishes in a 50’s-inspired diner. 25 milkshake flavours, mega burgers, giant hotdogs, a daily all American brunch, bright colours, a jukebox and vintage rock‘n’roll trinkets are all on offer at the HD Diner. The best of US cuisine in a relaxed, retro atmosphere.

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dining dining

Restaurant Restaurant Advertorial Advertorial

durand durand dupont dupont

French French cuisine cuisine // 92, 92, Neuilly Neuilly sur sur Seine Seine Situated Situated on on aa quiet quiet square square in in the the west west of of Paris, Paris, next next to to Porte Porte Maillot, Maillot, this this restaurant restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in in the the Parisian Parisian sun. sun. Durand Durand Dupont Dupont is is an an ideal ideal table table for for aa business business lunch lunch or or aa dinner dinner in in the the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best best sommeliers sommeliers to to accompany accompany aa variety variety of of dishes. dishes. For For aa starter starter enjoy enjoy the the crayfish crayfish salad salad with with beets, beets, whole-grain whole-grain mustard, mustard, then then savour savour the the black black angus angus beef beef with with scallion scallion thai thai sauce and basmati rice, followed by “Millefeuille” with fresh red berries. sauce and basmati rice, followed by “Millefeuille” with fresh red berries. 14 14 Place Place du du Marché Marché (92 (92 -- Neuilly Neuilly sur sur Seine), Seine), Metro: Metro: Porte Porte Maillot Maillot // Les Les Sablons Sablons Tel: +33 (0)1 41 92 93 00 Tel: +33 (0)1 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com www.duranddupont.com

taokan taokan

st th Chinese Chinese gastronomy, gastronomy, Paris Paris 11st & & 66th

In In both both the the Saint Saint Germain Germain des des Prés Prés and and Saint-Honoré Saint-Honoré areas, areas, Taokan Taokan is is aa place place where where we we honour honour Chinese Chinese gastronomy, gastronomy, while while offering offering aa contemporary contemporary vision. vision. In In aa refined refined and and elegant elegant decor, decor, the the menu menu offers offers an an inventive inventive and and fine fine panorama panorama of of specialties specialties and and showcases homemade Dim Sum. Open every day, including Mondays, showcases homemade Dim Sum. Open every day, including Mondays, Saturdays Saturdays for for lunch lunch and and dinner dinner and and Sundays Sundays for for dinner. dinner. TaoKan TaoKan Saint Saint Germain Germainthdes des Prés Prés 8 rue du Sabot, Paris 6 th 8 rue du Sabot, Paris 6 Tel: Tel: +33 +33 (0)1 (0)1 42 42 84 84 18 18 36 36 www. www. taokan.fr taokan.fr

TaoKan TaoKan Saint-Honoré Saint-Honoré st 1 1 rue rue du du Mont Mont Thabor, Thabor, Paris Paris 1 1st Tel: Tel: +33 +33 (0)1 (0)1 42 42 61 61 97 97 88 88

LUNCH LUNCH AND AND DINNER DINNER CRUISE, CRUISE, SIGHTSEEING SIGHTSEEING CRUISE CRUISE Booking Booking :: + + 33 33 1 1 76 76 64 64 14 14 45 45 -- www.bateauxparisiens.com www.bateauxparisiens.com Boarding at the foot of the Eiffel Boarding at the foot of the Eiffel Tower Tower Bateaux Parisiens, a Bateaux Parisiens, a

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)

A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

(€€€)

In the lively 2nd arrondissement and 2 minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Baudelaire - Modern Classic (€€€)

At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Julien Chamblas prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Bistrot Richelieu - Classic French

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

(€€)

This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the 1st floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra

Kinugawa - Japanese

(€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger

served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Lavinia - Classic French (€€)

Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)

Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

La Cuisine de l’E7 | Contemporary (2nd)

Le Bistrot de Louchébem | Classic French (1st)

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Address Book

age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

Nos Ancêtres Les Gaulois - Classic French (€€)

Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistrot (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th)

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

La Tour D’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

Arpege - Contemporary (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Alcazar | Brasserie (6th)

La Truffière | Southwestern French (5th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  67

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Address Book L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Truffes Folies - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy fine fare featuring truffle-based dishes in an elegant and welcoming setting. Starters include a soft-boiled egg with black truffle and a delicious house salad. Among the main courses prepared with truffles are risotto and tagliatelle. Mon-Sat L, Mon-Fri D. 37 rue Malar (7th), 01.44.18.05.41. M° La Tour-Maubourg

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent

Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

Fauchon Le Café - Gourmet

(€€)

This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine

L’Astor - Gourmet

(€€€)

Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. Mon-Fri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº Saint-Augustin

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Seasonal dishes include Dublin Bay prawns in a broth with flavours of fennel and grapefruit and among the classic dishes, the celebrated pigeon André Malraux. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)

This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Penati Al Baretto - Italian (€€)

In the exclusive 8th arrondissement, a minute away from the Arc de Triomphe, is where you can enjoy a real treat of fine Italian cuisine in Paris. Into the elegant surroundings of this one Michelin starred restaurant - Chef Alberico Penati proposes a seasonal Menu reflective of the regions of his native Italy along with an extended wine list selection to take you on a refined gastronomic tour of that country. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat D only. 9 rue Balzac (8th), 01.42.99.80.00.M° George V

Ratn - Indian (€€€)

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V

Santoor - Indian (€)

Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Savy - Brasserie (€€)

A popular table for journalists, fashion designers

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

39V | Contemporary (8th)

Penati Al Baretto | Italian (8th)

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Address Book and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Zen Garden - Chinese (€€)

The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

Mamma Roma - Italian (€)

This casual eatery serves delicious pizzas by the slice. Traditional pizzas are all served including the Margherita and the Capricciosa, as well as original fare like the Speck al Tartufo made with truffles, speck and buffalo mozzarella. TuesWed noon-11pm, Thurs-Sat noon-12am. 90 rue Oberkampf (11th), 01.47.00.37.90. M° Parmentier

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Bon - Fusion (€€€)

Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th)

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet

(€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

Wepler - Brasserie

Le Gastroquet - Classic French

(€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/ Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from

(€€€)

(€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

Le Bar à Huîtres | Seafood (14th)

Le Train Bleu | Classic French (12th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  69

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Enjoy a dashing drink at the Grand Hotel du Palais Royal (page 72)

Photo © Nicolas Receveur

Shows | Ephemeral Restaurant Bars | Jazz | Clubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs

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Shows

A Private Dinner The Krug en Capitale annual pop-up event always looks for iconic places either under construction or going through renovations to set up shop and wow guests with spectacular views of the city. This year, the space chosen is perfectly intact with no construction workers in sight, with Krug en Capitale IV going in another direction though it will equally give guests an exceptional experience that they will never forget. From the 8th to the 12th of march the Musée Nissim de Camondo is playing host to the event, the private home that was bequeathed to Les Arts Décoratifs and later opened as a museum has been preserved and maintained as the private home it once was, and it is where Michelin-starred chef Armand Arnal will be putting together a gastronimical and organic feast that will be served in the museum’s enchanting garden, complete with classical music playing in the background. Marking this unique opportunity and access to this house museum, Krug en Capitale will be organising lunch, dinner and Krug Time during the 5-day ephemeral event. Reservations at www.krugencapitale.fr are essential.

Fills Monkey © Raphael Susitna; Krug © Thomas Deran

Photo © Nicolas Receveur

entertainment

The Beat of their Own Drum Dance to the beat of the drum with Fills Monkey’s incredible show. Sébastien Rambaud and Yann Coste are the duo behind the energetic drum show that not only showcases the artists’ talents on the drums but also their sense of humour. Part music show, part comic show, the Fills Monkey is an energetic and original show that has already entertained audiences around the world and is now showing at Paris’s L’Européen concert hall through to the 6th of the month. Tickets at Fnac. L’Européen 5 rue Biot (17th), 01 44 51 93 26 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  71

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entertainment Bars

Dashing Bowties and Cocktails One of the cosiest bars to enjoy a discreet, or not so discreet, cocktail is Lulli’s Bar, found in the heart of the charming Grand Hotel du Palais Royal. Elegantly tucked away a stone’s throw away from the beautiful Palais Royal garden, Lulli’s Bar oozes sophistication with a chic setting, complete with head barman, Maxime Rousseau, and his wellgroomed team sporting dashing bowties. The talented mixologists love mixing and creating cocktails to suit every client, so while the menu on offer lists old classics, you can also request something just for you, making your evening even more special in the City of Light. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01 42 96 15 35

The patio of La Table du Huit restaurant has been transformed into a charming and very chic chalet thanks to the ephemeral Le Chalet Grand Marnier that has set up home in its centre, transporting you to the Alps without having to leave the French capital. Through to the month of April you can enjoy cosy evenings in the pop-up chalet and indulge in a raclette dinner or sip on a hot chocolate made with a dash of Grand Marnier. Four cocktails have also been created in celebration of this pop-up event, including From Aspen to Paris, which mixes Grand Marnier, gin, orange juice and lemon juice, and gets you in the mood for a night out on the town. 8 rue Jean Goujon (8th), 01 40 74 64 94

Chalet Grand Marnier © Table du Huit

Alpine Drinks

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TUTU

photo : Michel Cavalca - conception grapique : vincentjacquet.com

CHICOSMAMBO

RE-OPENING

FEBRUARY 19th

DANCE IN ALL IT’S GLORY! Choreography : Philippe Lafeuille

Bobino - 14-20 rue de la Gaité 75014 Paris - M°Edgar Quinet or Gaité +33(0)1.43.27.24.24 - bobino.fr - fnac.com - ticketmaster.fr Fnac, Carrefour, Géant, Magasins U, Auchan, Leclerc, Cultura, Cora...

tutu.valprod.fr

ADVERTORIAL

Chalet Grand Marnier © Table du Huit

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching

nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian

in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

FRIDAY & SATURDAY @ 7PM / SUNDAY @ 6PM / MONDAY @ 8PM Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m  73

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO

MOULIN ROUGE

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche

Lido © PICS-Pascaline Labarrére

Lido

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© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2016- Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 190 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €190 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

05/02/2016 10:52


Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Hotel Costes Bar

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries

Le Bar Brûlé

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Private access is given to patrons as they step into a predominately black space with colours coming in through the bar from a street-art inspired background. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette

Le Bar

Le Bristol Bar

The Ballroom

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

casino

Experimental Cocktail Bar

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Le Lucien Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Harry’s New York Bar

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Le Lucien Bar | Bars & Wine Bars

Moonshiner

Ô Chateau

You can taste over 40 different wines by the

Casinos Barrière

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now

Moonshiner | Bars & Wine Bars

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entertainment Address Book

known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

The Penthouse Club

The world famous Penthouse club in Paris offers entertainment seven days a week from 10pm to 5am. Beautiful dancers, two floors, and three stages are all on the agenda in this venue just off of the Champs-Elysées. 13/15 rue de Berri (8th), 01.53.53.86.00. M° George V

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Baron

Le Social Club

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Chacha Club

NY Club

This Parisian nightspot plays host to a revolving array of disc jockeys and special guests. The clubby atmosphere is enhanced by a restaurant replete with terrace and private dining rooms. Mon-Sat, 8pm until midnight for the restaurant, until dawn for the club. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01.40.13.12.12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Club 79

This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

Le Montana

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Réservoir

A wonderful night spot to listen to excellent music and discover new artists. The club has a bar with a diverse selection of mojitos and margaritas and restaurant serving excellent dinners followed by entertainment, Tues-Sat. Buffet jazz brunch on Sundays. 16 rue de la Forge Royale (11th), 01.43.56.39.60. M° Faidherbe-Chaligny

Le Showcase

Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

New Morning | Jazz Clubs

This hot club is home to the best of electro DJs and where fashionistas and stars are flocking to for their showcases and their private parties. A glamorous and cabaret-like ambiance awaits you. 130 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.42.21.90.88. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non-members are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

Le Showcase

| Night Clubs

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Air France buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle CS ET S RUE OL Musée BO R. OS DU E GN Voltaire CL (Roissy) from DE UL5:55am to 10:30pm IN Carnavalet E B A for Orly Airport/ Chemin S U LT DA RU A E DU N E RO BO G S VA Vert E E R. F. R É UR SI Bréguet RU TT GE D E to Charles de Gaulle T ER RO DU departures from Orly Airport TO ORLY AIRPORT OIS Sabin UE LFOR I D S R. E B Q R E UE E S R . DU RU B O R. DE ME R RO E PAS DE IC I S DES ND . LE RU L A M RER B, direction U LOrlyval, Airport fromE 6:30am to 10:30pm. (Onboard: 20€ Oone ELS St-Rémy, connects with ULE PLACEThe LA SO R IV EV RT E A U HN OLI DES PL.DE LA MIRON O N N Alexandre X A R Charonne C H A Rround S RÉUNION VOSGESan automatic train, at D EAntony. Orlyval runs every way, 34€ trip/Online: 18€ one way, 30.50€ O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E S-Paul U E Pont R NE RU X 9 rue Chanez, Paris 16th round trip). Frequency: every 30 minutes. Journey Marie I 5-7 min, 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RER C direction E E R RO e RU TER AC ONN PLACE E L Porte de E E HAR DE R. D Bastille NDR DE LA R . connects with a shuttle busCthat Montreuil S PORTE DE S T- Massy-Verrières DE takes 45 to 60 minutes. Also RER B from Charles DE DE . EXA ANT Tel: +33 618 743 103 R L L I U A BASTILLE LAP RE MONTREUIL OINE E CÉ V IL P MONT Maraîchers RUE E S C goes to Orly (6.45€).E Or take L LE R U then the OrlyVal OrlybusD outside the HANZY de Gaulle R U E to the Antony station ST E MR U Opéra INS www.eazy-ink.com / auteuil@eazy-ink.com C N TIT . DE L Bastille V O I R E Buzenval . R A P D 'AV R U E 20 min D E L E S C L Uevery service to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from Denfert-Rochereau Métro stop (14th), ZE Rue des DU CER UA BL IS A I R. I D Boulets IE VD NR Ledru 'AN E Travel time HE R UAir France U S R P JO 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. 5:35 am-11 pm (7.20€). buses leave from Rollin E Avron CH AM N Sully V L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland B LV I L is about S LT betweenOthe two airports the Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) DE TREU AI DU RU E Y MON RE DE ULL E U R HU S NE E 1 hour and 10 minutes. AU B O the Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, FM° Etoile) DE R. IGN É ® D PLAINE URG LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A R. MO RN AYand Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant www.aeroportsdeparis.fr E Faidherbe IN A R. D B. AN

DES

CARRIÈRES

13 10/02/2016 10:47


navigate

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.80€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day 11.15€, 2-day 18.15€, 3-day 24.80€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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My Paris

FREDERIC BEAUCHE

Head Concierge at Les Bains Paris Andy Wahloo

Don Juan II

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The Sacré Cœur, set on its famous stairs overlooking the Louise Michel square and the entire capital city. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? The YEEELS, a chic and trendy bar restaurant on Avenue George V. A universe dedicated to celebration…modern and very rock ’n’ roll. As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Le Marais of course. A mixture of history and luxury. From the most prestigious brand names to the smallest creators…sometimes well hidden! The best is definitely there. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner?

Nothing is more romantic than a tête-à-tête dinner aboard the Cachemire, the most beautiful yacht in Paris, which you obviously will have privatised for the occasion. If you do not want to privatise, the Don Juan II will definitely blow you away as well for a romantic dinner on the water. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? The Père Lachaise cemetery. The biggest and most beautiful Parisian cemetery, where one can discover, during an improvised stroll or a guided tour, a place full of history, anecdotes and atypical monuments. What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? Hidden paths in Paris, such as the Passage de l’Ancre. Well-hidden behind a large double door, this very small private path is a safe and verdant haven sheltering some workshops and small boutiques, like Pep’s, which has been selling and repairing umbrellas since the 1960s. Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/ bachelorette party? Derrière! Derrière! Derrière! Derrière, on Rue des Gravilliers, is an original restaurant where one can have dinner in

the bedroom, the living room, the boudoir or the terrace…like at home. Refined family cuisine in a festive atmosphere. I would also recommend a drink at Andy Wahloo’s, which is next door. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? The Luxembourg gardens, a magnificent garden in Paris sheltering the Senate. All along this stroll among these French gardens, you will discover many statues by Bourdelle, Dalou, and Rodin. You can take a reading break around one of the famous ponds where children push small wooden boats with their sticks, as our parents, grandparents and great grandparents once did.

My perfect day 9am: Sport and relaxation at Klay 12pm: Lunch at Benoit 3pm: Visit the Picasso museum 9pm: Dinner at Saturne for an exceptional tasting dinner 10pm Crazy Horse show to finish the day with beauty

where

®

Your Guide to the World

Andy Wahloo © www.philippelevy.net; Jardin du Luxembourg© Paris Tourist Office - David Lefranc

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Benoit, an Alain Ducasse bistro, one of the best if not THE best bistro in Paris, to enjoy traditional and refined cuisine in an historical environment.

The Luxembourg gardens

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Site avec 3 personnages, 1981 - Acrylic on paper - 51 x 35 cm - 20 x 13.8 in.

Jean Dubuffet

62 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris • T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 • paris@operagallery.com Opening hours: Monday - Saturday 10 am - 7.30 pm & Sunday 11 am - 7 pm • operagallery.com

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