Where Paris Octomber 2016 (#273) by Where Paris

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 273

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

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PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE OCTOBER 2016/#273

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DRIVE DE CARTIER L ARG E DATE , RETROG R ADE SECON D TI M E ZON E AN D DAY/N IG HT I N DICATOR 19 04 - FU MC THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION IS ELEGANCE REDEFINED. THE SLEEK LINES OF THIS CUSHION-SHAPED WATCH CREATE A TRULY STYLISH PIECE, BROUGHT TO LIFE BY THE MAISON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC. ITS THREE COMPLICATIONS ARE COORDINATED DIRECTLY BY THE CROWN. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. # D R I V E D E C A RTI E R

PARIS 8e - 14, rue de Berri TÃ©l. 01 45 62 62 45 - www.elysees-horlogerie.com

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October PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

PARIS | CONTENTS

Cars

24 SHOPPING

We visit the Paris Motor Show and bring you the latest cars to be hitting our roads

Arts of Autumn

Art Elysées Art & Design: Ten Years Young

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 56 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

Take in some of the 185 galleries that the FIAC is bringing to the city

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions 68 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants

Discover the latest offerings in contemporary art at the celebrated art fair

The guide

84 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and bars

Wonderful Wine

We take you on a tour of the finest wineries around France

94 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings OC T OBE R 2 0 16 Issue N o 273

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE

PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION

Riding

AROUND PARIS

PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE OCTOBER 2016/#273

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ON THE COVER Turn to page 14 to see how you can discover Paris retro-style with Retro Tour.

THE PORTFOLIO IN PARIS ®

We publish editions in Chinese (biannual), Russian (annual) and Latin American (annual). PARIS - RUSSIAN EDITION

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银联国际巴黎官方指南精品店

Turn to page 69 for the best Italian dishes at Daroco

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We prefer not to be measured by dimensions. Unless it’s a new dimension of accuracy.

No fewer than four exceptional mechanisms enhance the preci-

with one-second accuracy in the first place. Never before has an

sion of the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”: the tiny

A. Lange & Söhne watch been endowed with so many complica-

fusée-and-chain transmission, the delicate tourbillon, the ultra-thin

tions that simultaneously enhance its rate accuracy, settability,

Lange balance spring, and – not least – the patented stop-seconds

and readability. And so, this remarkable timepiece truly deserves

device for the tourbillon which makes it possible to set the watch

the honorary attribute “Pour le Mérite”. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE PARIS 19, rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, Tel. 01 42 65 68 71

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Welcome to Paris

THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITOR Sandra Iskander* GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ART EDITOR Shelley Varley DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/LONDON Melanie Needham

This month marks the season of the arts and the French capital is not welcoming one major event but two fairs that any art collector cannot afford to miss. FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, will be held for the 43rd time and will bring together 185 different galleries from 27 countries. Meanwhile, the Art Elysées Art & Design show will be bringing together 70 French and international galleries. The City of Light will also be hosting the Paris Motor Show allowing car lovers from around the world to discover the latest offerings from the most popular car manufacturers. In this issue we also take you on a tour of the finest wineries around the country with top establishments here in the capital where you can taste a drop or two from your favourite house. Visiting Paris is never complete without a little, or a lot, of shopping. And so in our All About Accessories photo shoot we bring you the key pieces from our favourite jewellery and fashion houses to make sure your every outfit is complemented perfectly with the right accessory to make it extra fabulous. And for our readers who want to eat their way through the city our Dining pages are bursting with excellent tables to sample, while in our Entertainment section we bring you a sexy cabaret, a comedy show and some great bars for original cocktails. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* DESIGNER AND PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: octobre 2016. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

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NEW boutiquE 50 aVenUe DeS chaMPS-elYSÉeS

The iconic loafer 180 Men’s and women’s models

french ShoeMaKer Since 1891

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October

HOT DATES Discover the best of October in Paris

La Nuit Blanche October 1 Don’t miss the chance to enjoy the one night in the French capital when free entertainment is organised throughout the city from dusk till dawn, giving you a reason to stay up all night to enjoy the City of Light. Don’t forget to visit www.facebook.com/NBParis, La Nuit Blanche’s official Facebook page for up-todate information and programme.

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Bespoke Wine ALL MONTH If you have ever dreamed about owning your own vineyard then you will love the ateliers organised by Les Caves du Louvre that will bring you that little bit closer in making that dream come true. With the help of the head sommelier, wine amateurs can create their very own drop as well as personalise their bottle during the two-hour workshops, and if desired, participants can even order extra bottles of their bespoke cuvée, making quite the souvenir. Reservations are essential and can be made by calling 01 44 73 97 80 or by visiting www.cavesdulouvre.com.

Vuitton Windows THROUGH TO THE 8TH Take in Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2016/2017 ready-to-wear collection that is dramatically displayed in Printemps’s windows and shop the looks courtesy of the pop-store set up in the department store’s atrium, which will stay in place through to the 22nd of October. Fashion snobs will also be in for an extra treat with a selection of pieces exclusively designed for and available only at Printemps including a futuristic pair of metallic ankle boots.

La Nuit Blanche © ISTOCK; Zoo © Daniel Thierry; Louis Vuitton Printemps window photo © Francis Peyrat

64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

Zoo Day Out ALL MONTH Head to the Paris zoo with your children and meet its latest addition, Husar, the manatee that has joined Tinus and Herbert, the zoo’s other two manatees. Avenue Daumesnil (12th), 08 11 22 41 22 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11

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PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs OCTOBER 1-3 SALON ZEN Well-being, healing careers and personal development for one and all are to be found here. Conferences, workshops and classes in various Zen methods are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10:30am to 7pm. www.salon-zen.fr Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th), 01 45 56 09 09

Mexican Movies

OCTOBER 7-30 ANTIQUAIRES ET GALERIES

Celebrate Viva Mexico, the Mexican cinema festival in France, and catch one of the movies being played at Cinéma Luminor Hôtel de Ville, one of the oldest independent cinemas in the city. Visit www.luminor-hoteldeville.com for the movie sessions. 20 rue du Temple (4th), 01 42 78 47 86

Vintage Chanel

The antique and art galleries of Versailles are paying tribute to the arts and fine food at court, drawing inspiration from the great feasts and fêtes of the court of France. Some 50 galleries devoted to furniture, paintings, curiosities, books, jewellery and more will be displaying exceptional objects during the fair and throughout the month. www.antiques-versailles.com Passage de la Geôle/Rue and Cour du Baillage/ 10 rue Rameau, 78000 Versailles, 01 30 21 15 13

october 10

OCTOBER 15-16 SALON DU VINTAGE

More than 410 pieces of jewellery from iconic French fashion house Chanel are being auctioned off today, including limited edition haute joaillerie pieces as well as more contemporary pieces such as a ring from the 2011 cruise collection. Auction house Hôtel Drouot, where the auction will be held, will be exhibiting the pieces from 11am on the 8th of the month to 12pm on the 10th, before the auction begins at 2pm.

Take a journey back in time to shop at this show, being held for the 20th time, bringing together vintage fashion, furniture, accessories, objects and records from 150 exhibitors. Iconic fashion designer Emmanuelle Khanh will be selling her personal collection at the fair and an exhibition is devoted to fashion in the 1980s paying tribute to Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier. The show is open from 11am to 8pm on the 15th and until 7pm on the 16th. www.salonduvintage.com

9 rue Drouot (9th), 01 48 00 20 20

Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène Spuller (3rd), 01 44 83 94 41

Photo Exhibition Through to the 30th The Maison Européenne de la Photographie is holding a photo exhibition showcasing the works of American photographer Herb Ritts. The extraordinary photographer had captured some of the world’s most fascinating and beautiful people and some of his famous photographs including Madonna’s True Blue album cover and a photo of the original supermodels are being shown, making it a not-to-be-missed show for both admirers of his work and pop culture fans. 5 rue de Fourcy (4th), 01 44 78 75 00

OCTOBER 21-23 PARIS COMIC CON The pop culture show is back in Paris once again this year. The event showcases comics, films, television, toys and video games and features special guests. Fans can meet up with creators, artists and actors. Among the special guests this year is the director, screenplay writer and producer Joe Dante who brought us The Gremlins. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 23rd. www.comic-con-paris.com Grande Halle de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th)

OCTOBER 28-31 SALON DU CHOCOLAT A heavenly show where chocolate is the guest of honour with exhibitions, workshops, tastings and a daily fashion show with dresses made with chocolate. This year’s theme is Back to Chocolate and there is a section of the show that will be devoted to children with workshops and games. The show is open from 10am to 7pm. www.salonduchocolat.fr Paris Expo blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles, (15th)

Photo Exhibition © Herb Ritts Foundation

From the 5th through to the 11th

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cars By Patricia Valicenti

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Motor Show

The Rolls Royce at the Hotel Molitor Photo © Agence Nuel - © Christophe Dugied; Cars from the Weber Collection for the On the Road auction held by Artcurial Photo © Artcurial; Retro Tour photo © Charles Seguy

Opposite page: The Rolls Royce at the Hotel Molitor This page (from top to bottom): Retro Tour; Cars from the Weber Collection; L’Atelier Renault Café Next Page: The Mondial de l’Automobile

ctober is a world on wheels in Paris as the Mondial de l’Automobile, the Paris Motor Show, drives into town from October 1st through to October 16th. Alfa Romeo, Humvee, Citroën, Fiat and Maserati are just a sprinkling of the over 200 brands from 18 countries on hand for the event spread out over eight sweeping halls in the Porte de Versailles convention centre, with automobile sports being showcased in Hall 1. Fiat will be presenting its elegant Riva 500 with a mahogany dashboard exhibited next to a real Riva, the Tipo and an Abarth 124 Spider for the serious roadster. Meanwhile, Citroën will be revealing the CXPERIENCE concept car, a sedan with an aerodynamic design, within the concept of its Citroën Advanced Comfort® programme. This year an exhibition devoted to some 45 mythical cars that played a role in movies, including the Wrangler Jeep from Jurassic Park, is being held in a reconstructed movie studio set up in Hall 8. Visitors can also test out electric cars or participate in the auction of exceptional classic and sports cars organised by Coys on October 8th at the show. There are also plenty of auto-related activities around town, too, including dining among the cars, exhibitions, the Automédon automobile show, visiting Paris in a DS or on-board a sidecar and a car auction. Delicious food, great drinks, cars, exhibitions revolving around them and a fine boutique are all found in the luminous L’Atelier Renault, an emblematic venue on the Champs-Elysées where traditional French brasserie fare can be enjoyed on the 1st floor in a convivial ambiance punctuated by automotive activities and events. Winning appetisers include an avocado and shrimp salad while lamb chops with mashed potatoes is among the main course offerings. For dessert, indulge in the Coupe de L’Atelier Renault Café, a sinful bowl filled with chocolate, salty caramel, hazelnut praline ice-cream, brownies, chocolate sauce and whipped cream. And before or after a meal or just a drink you can discover an array of Renault cars in the showroom downstairs or watch Grand Prix races broadcast live. The boutique here also carries a fine selection of miniatures, key chains and Formula 1 products. One of the most iconic places in town to stop in for a good homemade meal in an automobile ambiance is the aptly named Auto Passion Café. The restaurant opened at the end of 1999 and has been going strong ever since as car lovers and just lovers of good food and a unique ambiance w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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Motor Show

two people. On a fun note, the Hotel Molitor has a Rolls Royce decorated in graffiti in its lobby. The car belonged to the French football player and actor Eric Cantona and was tagged on the French television show Le Grand Journal by the artist JonOne before being sold at auction by Artcurial with the proceeds going to the French charity the Fondation Abbé Pierre. While at the hotel you can plunge into one of the finest pools (in fact there are two) in Paris. The hotel offers three options, a one-hour early swim with access to the sauna and hammam and breakfast or the same programme with lunch or dinner. And the Automédon trade show, which showcases classic, vintage and collector vehicles, rolls into town on October 8th and 9th. This year the show is paying tribute to the Monte Carlo Rally with some 30 cars that won the prestigious race. Meanwhile, auction house Artcurial will be holding an auction of American collector cars, including a 1936 Cadillac, in the scenic Norman town of Château-sur-Epte about an hour and a half west of Paris. The auction, On the Road, the André Weber Collection, is preceded by an exhibition from October 7th through to the 9th with the sale being on the 9th.

Mondial de l’Automobile October 1st through to October 16th 10am-8pm, until 10pm on the 6th, 7th, 13th and 14th. Parc des Expositions, Porte de Versailles, Blvd Victor (15th) Atelier Renault 53 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 76 84 14 14 Auto Passion Café 197 blvd Brune (14th), 01 45 43 20 20 DS World Paris 33 rue François 1er (8th), 01 53 57 33 08 Motor Village 2 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 75 78 84 Retro Tour 01 85 39 07 07 Hotel Molitor 13 rue Nungesser et Coli (16th), 01 56 07 08 50 Automédon October 8th through to October 9th 9am to 7pm Parc des Expositions, Paris-Le Bourget, 93350 Le Bourget Artcurial Car Auction Rue de la Libération 27420 Château-sur-Epte

The Mondial de l’Automobile, 2014 file shot. Photos © Adrien Daste Mondial de l’Automobile

swirl through their doors. There are no less than 17 display windows presenting the memorabilia and diverse documents of a host of automobile clubs who regularly hold their meetings here and a 2014 Formula 1 Renault thrones over the establishment from the ceiling. It is a lieu that has been frequented by figures in the auto-racing world including Sébastien Loeb and Alain Prost. There is a full cocktail menu with whimsically named drinks like the Racing Car Driver or the Hitchhiker (these two are alcohol free) or savour a Rally menu served weekdays at lunchtime that includes a choice of three appetisers and a choice of three main courses. Offerings on the main menu include a generous platter of cold cuts, terrines, Brie and Cantal cheese to share. The appetiser course, entitled Starting Grid on the menu, brings several choices including a poached organic egg with spinach and chorizos sausage while main courses, called Pit Stop on the menu, include farm-raised chicken with homemade purée or fresh cod with grilled vegetables. Desserts, referred to naturally as the Finish Line, offer up seasonal fresh fruit pies amongst other treats. Meanwhile, Motor Village is the Parisian showcase for the mythical Italian carmaker Fiat. The state-of-the art avant-garde space offers a journey into Italy and its worlds of design, technology, fashion and of course great cuisine. From the elegant NoLita restaurant upstairs or the Fiat Caffè downstairs you can gaze upon the cars in a magical glass tube that rises up into the middle of the space featuring a car on each floor. DS World Paris showcasing the French luxury DS car and located in the heart of the capital’s Golden Triangle offers an exclusive experience. A boutique carrying high-end items and an exhibition space are also located in the three-floor venue. The current exhibition is devoted to the contemporary French couture designer Eymeric François. You can also enjoy a Parisian escapade ensconced in a vintage DS accompanied by a chauffeur-guide. If you love cars and are looking to discover Paris in a new way Retro Tour is perfect for you. Accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon, you can take in the city on board a genuine sidecar. The Classic Tour leaves from and returns to the Place de la Concorde, pick up at your location tours include an array of Great Escape tours that take you off the beaten track while the Retro by Night tour takes you into an evening journey with a champagne stop in front of the Eiffel Tower. You can also customise your tour and tours can carry one or 16 WHERE Pa r i s I o c to b e r 2016

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ARTS OF AUTUMN

utumn has traditionally been the season when art is revealed in the French capital at shows, fairs, in galleries and in the great outdoors. And one of the stars of all the shows is the FIAC, the International Contemporary Art Fair, being held for the 43rd time this year. The show brings together, beneath the captivating glass cupola of the Grand Palais, some 185 leading galleries from 27 countries with four countries and territories making their first entrance: Poland, Hungary, Japan and Hong Kong. This year the fair’s ground has been expanded to include the Petit Palais, which will welcome the On Site part of the show presenting sculptures and installation works while at the same time a new room of the Grand Palais, the Salon Jean Perrin, has opened and will play host to nine galleries exhibiting historic artists among them William S. Burroughs, a leading figure of the Beat Generation. This year the FIAC is strengthening its support for the performance arts and the dialogue between the various disciplines of contemporary art with a new festival, Parades for FIAC, being held in emblematic Parisian venues near the main venue of the FIAC with a rich programme intersecting music, contemporary dance, performance and poetry. Contemporary dance performances are slated to be organised in the various courtyards of the Louvre while the Palais de la Découverte, the Grand Palais and the Avenue Winston Churchill facing the Petit Palais will be welcoming other performances. This year three venues will form the Hors les Murs section of the show. The Tuileries Gardens traditionally welcomes outdoor projects of installations and sculptures and this year’s rich selection includes works by Berdaguer & Péjus, Alexander Calder and Jacques Julien and exceptional architectural presentations from Ron Arad among others. Meanwhile, the other two off-site venues are the Place Vendôme and The Musée National Eugène Delacroix, which is attached to the Louvre and houses the last

studio and apartment of the artist in the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood. And on the Place Vendôme, in collaboration with Galerie Eva Presenhuber, Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone will present six majestic sculptures in aluminium, evoking the olive trees in the region of Naples from where his family originates. Some of the galleries in the Grand Palais are presenting themed exhibitions, of note Zoran Music at Applicat-Prazan, Cathy Wilkes at The Modern Institute and Magnus Andersen at Neue Alte Brücke. And visitors to the FIAC this year can take in the art works with a Visites YCI, commentary by young critics and exhibition curators selected within the context of the Young Curators International created by the Fondation d’Entreprise Ricard and the FIAC in 2006. And also with the participation of the Fondation d’Entreprise Ricard, Cinéphémère, in a specially conceived 14-seat movie theatre on the Place Clemenceau, will be projecting a cycle of short films. Galeries Lafayette, the FIAC’s official partner, will also be hosting a space, the Secteur Lafayette, of 10 galleries featuring emerging talents from seven countries, offering a certain visibility to young creators during this major art rendezvous. And the celebrated Silencio nightclub, created by David Lynch, will be hosting a programme of films, concerts and encounters with artists. The Outsider Art Fair, which as its name implies, will feature outsider art from 38 international galleries including both established and emerging galleries. Art Shopping in the Carrousel du Louvre brings together some 500 contemporary artists and galleries and the Slick Art Fair, the French Scene Art Fair, will showcase contemporary art by French artists working in France and abroad and foreign artists living and working in France that participate in the French art scene. The Salon Réalités Nouvelles, held for the first time in 1946 and now in its 70th year, will bring together over 400 abstract artists in the scenic Parc Floral.

FIAC October 20-23 Grand Palais 3 ave du Général Eisenhower (8th) 12-8pm, until 9pm on the 21st ON SITE October 19-23 Petit Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th) JARDIN DES TUILERIES October 18 1 Place de la Concorde (1st) MUSEE NATIONAL EUGÈNE DELACROIX 6 rue de Furstenberg (6th) PALAIS DE LA DECOUVERTE Ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt LE SILENCIO October 18-23, starting at 9pm 142 rue Montmartre (2nd) OUTSIDER ART FAIR October 20-23 Hôtel du Duc 22 rue de la Michodière (2nd) ART SHOPPING October 21-23, 11am-8pm, until 7pm on the 23rd Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st) SLICK ART FAIR October 19-23, 12-8pm Pont Alexandre III, Port des ChampsElysées (8th) SALON REALITES NOUVELLES October 16-23, 11am-6pm Parc Floral de Paris 1 Route de la Pyramide (12th)

Sans titre, Marc Desgrandchamps, 2016 © Marc Desgrandchamps – courtesy of Galerie Lelong Paris; Tondo N°XH 5, Daniel Buren, 2016 courtesy of the Artist and Xavier Hufkens, Brussels

By Patricia Valicenti

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Sans titre, Marc Desgrandchamps, 2016 © Marc Desgrandchamps – courtesy of Galerie Lelong Paris; Tondo N°XH 5, Daniel Buren, 2016 courtesy of the Artist and Xavier Hufkens, Brussels

Getaway The Trip Arts

Clockwise from top left: Malachite Knit by Donna Huanca, presented by Peres Projects; Tondo N°XH 5 by Daniel Buren presented by Xavier Hufkens; Sans titre, Artwork by Marc Desgrandchamps presented by Galerie Lelong Paris; The Nutcracker Suite by Daniel Richter presented by Regen Projects w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 19

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Art Elysées Art & Design:

Ten Years Young By Patricia Valicenti

s an air of art sets into the French capital during the month of October, the Art Elysées Art & Design show unfolds in a whirl of delightful pavilions set up right on the Champs-Elysées. The modern and contemporary art fair is swinging into its tenth year this year and highlights include an exhibition devoted to the 20th century master Jean Dubuffet, a VIP visit, and an art and design exhibition entitled Salon (Living Room). Some 70 French and international galleries devoted to art and some 12 devoted to design are showcasing works in the temporary pavilions on the Champs-Elysées enabling

collectors and gallery owners to mingle while the public can take in a unique show of works of art and design in an open and festive atmosphere. A rigorous selection of exhibitors, a generalist approach offering a panorama of modern and contemporary art as well as design and its location in the heart of Paris are the show’s hallmarks. Visitors can take in works by artists who marked the 20th century, discover accessible contemporary works, iconic pieces of design and a generation of upcoming young designers. The exhibitors in the art section of Art Elysées are chosen by a committee presided over by the Parisian gallery owner Baudoin Lebon. “We

ask that the galleries come and be what they are, to show what they would normally show,” said Mr Lebon. Once again this year the masters are all on hand with the Galerie Berès presenting a spectacular work in red and black by Victor Vasarely, while the Galerie Bert puts on blue, white and red by Serge Poliakoff and the master of black, Pierre Soulages, is being played out at the Opera Gallery stand. Andy Warhol’s positively fun Cat with Turban is being displayed by the Galerie des Modernes and the Hélène Bailly Gallery hosts André Masson’s dreamy take on sleep. Among the contemporary notes is the

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By Patricia Valicenti

André Masson, Les Métamorphoses du Sommeil, 1972 courtesy of Hélène Bailly Gallery; Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Surrounded Islands, Biscayne Bay Greater Miami, Florida, Collage, 1983 courtesy of Guy Pieters Gallery; Jean Dubuffet, Raccommodeuse de chaussettes (W21) Matière et Mémoire, 1944 courtesy of baudoin lebon; Andy Warhol, Cat with Turban, circa 1956 courtesy of The Estate of Andy Warhol, The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts

The Arts Galerie Gadcollection’s inimitable photograph by Ormond Gigli featuring girls in the window, a polychrome by Aurélie Nemours from the Galerie Wagner and appealing aboriginal works from the Arts d’Australie, Stéphane Jacob gallery. And the Galerie Lélia Mordoch is presenting a solo show of the Japanese artist Yukio Imamura. Meanwhile, highlights of the design portion of the show include a decorative finger ring from the Galerie MiniMasterpiece and an armchair by Otto Schulz at the Galerie Michael Najjar. And the A1043 design gallery will be hosting an ensemble of suspended lights designed by Ettore Sottsass in 1975 with furniture by Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Held in the art section of the show, the Jean Dubuffet exhibition offers a unique opportunity to discover the drawings and prints of the artist who is better known to the general public through his paintings, sculptures and monumental installations. The show presents works in a style called outsider art of which Dubuffet is regarded as the founder. Meanwhile, the Guy Pieters Gallery, which is participating in the show for the first time this year is presenting two exceptional solo shows with one devoted to Christo and the other to Niki de Saint Phalle. Salon is a unique concept show conceived and produced by the Berlin-based Michael Fuchs Gallery. The exhibition, being presented in the design section of the show, recreates the elegant interior of an eclectic collector bringing together a selection of contemporary, modern and classic art works with furnishings and iconic pieces of design. The display intentionally juxtaposes different periods in art history to demonstrate that no matter the period, everything that is beautiful can be combined. Within the context of the show’s tenth anniversary, the VIP visit organised in collaboration with the contemporary art specialist Constance Breton will take place within Salon. Held on October 20th at 11:30am and on October 21st at 1:30pm, it will see speakers from the worlds of culture and luxury orchestrating conversations on subjects ranging from art, luxury and art 2.0. The VIP visit also features an off-site show being held at the Park Hyatt-Paris Vendôme hotel where the works of the artist Pierre Marie Lejeune represented by the Galerie Messine will be shown. October 20th through to October 24th 11am-8pm, closes at 6pm on the 24th Avenue des Champs-Elysées from the Place Clemenceau to the Place de la Concorde (8th)

Opposite page: André Masson’s Les Métamorphoses du Sommeil This page (clockwise from top): Christo et Jeanne-Claude’s Surrounded Islands, Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida, Collage; Jean Dubuffet’s Raccommodeuse de chaussettes (W21) Matière et Mémoire; Andy Warhol’s Cat with Turban w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 21

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WINE By Patricia Valicenti

he Gauls were the first to master the art of vine growing in France, an art that was much improved upon by medieval monks and today some 800,000 hectares of the good earth of France, with its variety of soils and diversity of wine varieties, is devoted to vineyards. Bordeaux and Burgundy come to mind but so do Alsace and the Rhône valley, where the vines were probably the first to be cultivated already back in the 1st century. Some 20 different grape varieties grow in the section of the Rhône valley between Lyon and Avignon, making for the pleasant and often pungent Côtes du Rhône wines. Today the most celebrated are sold under their own appellations like Crozes-Hermitage or the particularly powerful Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which owes its name to the residence of the popes (papes in French) when they lived in Avignon in the 14th century. Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, often regarded as

one of the best Côtes du Rhône wines, are usually red, but the few white wines are elegant and unctuous, a case in point being the Grand Tinel Blanc 2014. The grapes are hand harvested early in the morning at this family-owned estate, which still has a parcel of old vine plants. Grape growing spread into Burgundy in the second century and today there are no less than 113 appellations contrôlées, or controlled designations of origin, of various categories and literally thousands of single sites referred to in French as climats. Burgundy has been producing high quality wines for centuries. Here are the renowned wines of Beaune, like Volnay, the sumptuous Chablis and the wines of the Côte-d’Or, often regarded as Burgundy proper. Meursault, one of the great white Côte de Beaune Burgundies is marked by

its golden green robe and rich, unctuous taste. Alsace is the northernmost vine-growing area of France and benefits from special climatic and soil conditions. From here come the great whites like the Rieslings, the Gewurztraminers, the Tokays and the aromatic Muscats. The plain of Alsace has different layers of rock where faults occurred and here the vines grow in a diversity of soils ranging from yellow granite to pink sandstone or marl. Gewurztraminer, made from the spicy Traminer grape has a very pronounced bouquet and is known to make outstanding wines. Bordeaux brings to mind the great vintages from Médoc, Graves, Pomerol, Sauternes and those of the beautiful medieval town of Saint-Emilion, whose

Vineyards in the region of Riquewihr Photo © PocholoCalapre/iStock; Gerwurztraminer wine with flammkuechen Photo © bernjuer/iStock; The vineyard in Montmartre Photo Erwan Floc’h © Mairie 18

Wonderful

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Clockwise from top left: Les Caves de Taillevent; Vineyards in the region of Riquewihr in Alsace; Gerwurztraminer wine served with flammkuechen, an Alsatian specialty; The vineyard in Montmartre Photo Erwan Floc’h

Illustrations © ISTOCK

Vineyards in the region of Riquewihr Photo © PocholoCalapre/iStock; Gerwurztraminer wine with flammkuechen Photo © bernjuer/iStock; The vineyard in Montmartre Photo Erwan Floc’h © Mairie 18

Getaway Wine Tasting Trip

jurisdiction is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Wine production here has a long history for viticulture was introduced to this fertile region of Aquitaine by the Romans and intensified in the Middle Ages. It is here that are produced the Premiers Grands Crus Classés, Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone, with the latter harkening back to Roman times. Many estates in the region are family-owned like the Château Grand Corbin Manuel producing fine vintages in a typical Saint-Emilion assembly of grape varieties, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Paris has its own vineyards too with the most iconic being on the hill that is Montmartre and where the Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre or the annual wine harvest festival takes place this month from October 5th through to the 8th. The vineyard, the Clos Montmartre, produces both a red and rosé wine. Festive concerts, visits, conferences and tastings are all on the agenda.

On the slopes of Montmartre, the Cave des Abbesses carries a fine selection of French wines and has a convivial wine bar in the back of the shop offering cheese and cold cut platters. Starting on October 14th, a 5-course gourmet wine-pairing menu is on the agenda at Taillevent, the Michelin-starred restaurant. The five wines from the house’s cellar were selected by the British writer John Lanchester and include a Meursault Clos de la Barre 2005 Domaine des Comtes Lafon and a Gewurztraminer, Vendages Tardives 1998 (late harvest) from the Domaine Trimbach. Meanwhile for a unique wine experience in Paris, Les Vignerons Parisiens has right in the heart of town a winemaking cellar making wine from grapes that come from the Rhône valley and are cultivated organically or through methods of biodynamic agriculture. The cellar is open for visits, tastings, classes and you can purchase the Made in Paris wines on the premises.

LA CAVE DES ABBESSES 43 rue des Abbesses (18th), 01 42 52 81 54 LE TAILLEVENT 15 rue Lamennais (8th), 01 44 95 15 01 LES CAVES DE TAILLEVENT 228 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 45 61 14 09 LES VIGNERONS PARISIENS 55 rue de Turbigo (3rd), 01 44 93 72 97 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 23

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The Guide

SHOPPING

By Sandra Iskander

Clash prints with Sonia by Sonia Rykiel (opposite page)

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SHOPPING For Her

Clashing Fashion Late French fashion designer Sonia Rykiel’s Sonia by Sonia Rykiel’s autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection is embracing the art of layering for the cooler months. As the weather turns so does our wardrobe and this season the French house is all about more is more with bright colours working well with more subdued autumnal hues and whimsical details standing out on more classical cuts. The collection features pieces with clashing prints that can be further mixed and matched with more clashing prints, giving every fashionista a unique signature look. For the less daring shoppers, the collection also offers simple and elegant pieces including pencil skirts and every wardrobe staple, the button-down shirt that goes with everything. Sonia Rykiel Boutique 175 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01 49 54 60 60

New York State of Couture It is the formula that has worked wonders for the Lebanese designer, everything that shines and full-bodied is red carpet worthy, and now Elie Saab has taken to the streets of New York and translated the City That Never Sleeps in a way that only he can. For his autumn/winter 2016/2017 haute couture collection the designer has interpreted the city’s famous skyscrapers and brought them to life in the form of gorgeous gowns with lush plumage, extravagant embroidery and a touch of old Hollywood glamour. The collection features voluminous skirts, graphic lines and seductive necklines with detailing all inspired by New York including a dress lit by the iconic Chrysler Building. Elie Saab Salon de Couture 43 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01 42 56 77 70 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 25

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Shopping Fashion

All about

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Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Nail Artist: Miss Moji from Backstage Agency Model: Laetitia Tia Genet from Up Model Photographer’s Assistant : Pierre Criqui Special thanks to the Plaza Athénée Hotel

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Roland Mouret shoes Printemps bag Chanel Horlogerie diamond and alligator leather watch Chanel Joaillerie white gold and diamond ring

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Pandora rose gold-plated rings Laura Sayan yellow gold, diamond and sapphire ring Angrew Gn bag

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Bally loafers Chanel Joaillerie white gold and diamond bracelet

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Lanvin evening bag Chaumet yellow gold and diamond ring and bracelet

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Bally bag Bucherer white gold and diamond bracelet and ring

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Pasquale Bruni rose gold and diamond cuff bracelet and rings

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RenĂŠ Caovilla shoes Chaumet yellow gold and diamond ring

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Shopping For Her

60s x 80s A little bit of the sixties with a sprinkle of the eighties sees Emporio Armani’s autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection for her bring the colourful elements of the two decades to life. Vinyl, glitter and neon detailing see the collection add a more vibrant and colourful touch to the greyer season, which traditionally embraces more subdued hues. The collection includes box jackets, sheepskin cloaks and dresses with graphic prints to make every lady stand out in a winter crowd. Emporio Armani Boutique 368 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 86 15 30

Chic Corsetry

Urban Surfer You certainly don’t have to be on Bondi beach to achieve the cool surfer chick look. Billabong, the Australian sportswear and casual clothing brand, offers urbanites some fun pieces that can easily be integrated into any look, adding beach chic to your style without ever having to leave the city. Making up the latest collection are easy-towear pieces including the nomadic poncho with a fringe trim that can take you from the beach to boho chic Rue des Martyrs for lunch in the French capital. Available at Galeries Lafayette

Feeling sexy is easy when shopping at lingerie specialist Cadolle. The French lingerie brand has been making lingerie since 1889 and has since been promoted to one of the finest lingerie houses in the world with an impressive celebrity following having counted fashion icon Coco Chanel as a devout client. The house’s signature model is the corset, giving women a to-die-for silhouette, and Cadolle’s savoir-faire is further translated in its bespoke service, creating madeto-measure pieces for its sensual clientele. This season Cadolle does not stray from what has made the house so successful with balconette bras, satin briefs with lace detailing and of course corsets that can be playfully worn as outerwear making up the new collection. Cadolle Boutique 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 60 94 22

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TO EXPLORE

No. 11: Conzelman Road in the Marin Headlands offers stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge. For more amazing destinations go to wheretraveler.com

Explorers:

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PICK THE PLACE. SEIZE THE STAY.

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SHOPPING For Him

Suave Steps Known for designing bespoke shoes in the house’s Parisian atelier, John Lobb has now taken this luxurious savoirfaire and has released the Artisans’ Series. Designed by Artistic Director Paula Gerbase alongside the John Lobb Bespoke Atelier, the collection of shoes encompasses both originality and traditional craftsmanship. Using the finest leathers and new fastening options, the collection features a low-cut Jodhpur boot, marrying elegance with comfort. John Lobb Boutique 51 rue François 1er (8th), 01 45 61 02 55

Best Suited This season Boss is celebrating the art of elegance by launching the limited edition Full Canvas suit as part of their autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection. Designed and created in Germany the suits will be available from this month in selected boutiques worldwide though with only 1500 suits made they were clearly designed with exclusivity in mind. Gentlemen can choose between the regular or slim cut and choose between three different fabrics including the Italian navy blue wool and silk blend. Hugo Boss Boutique 115 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 57 35 40

Green Fashion Affordable ready-to-wear store Monoprix has collaborated this season with three high-end designers to bring shoppers three limited edition collections to rival any collection found in the en pointe fashion neighbourhood of Le Marais. Among the three designers is Faguo, the French ready-to-wear brand created by two young designers, Frédéric and Nicolas. Their exclusive collection designed for Monoprix features everyday fashion staples including slogan sweatshirts as well as cool accessories including a hipster-worthy skateboard, and for every Faguo item sold at Monoprix a tree is planted in France, so not only will you look good but you will also be helping France get greener. Available at all Monoprix stores including at 109 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 53 77 65 65 36 WHERE PA R I S I O C TO B E R 2016

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Discover more than 110 boutiques with savings of at least 33%* and tax refunds§ in a charming open-air setting. Armani, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Paul Smith, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandro, Tod’s and many more Seven days a week, 35 minutes from Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks. Two daily departures from Paris with the Shopping Express® shuttle. For more information, visit LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress To enjoy your exclusive benefits, visit LaValleeVillage.com/where or scan the code.

London

Dublin

Paris

Frankfurt

Munich

Brussels

Milan

Barcelona

Madrid

Suzhou

Shanghai

* and often more on the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. § Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 2016

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Shopping For Him

Racing with Rolex High technology and fine aesthetics come together in the new version of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona introduced this year at Baselworld. The handsome steel watch in this version is set off with a Cerachrom bezel, developed and patented by Rolex, in black ceramic. Often known just as the Daytona, the watch is regarded as one of the best chronographs in the world and its bezel is engraved with a tachymetric scale for measuring average speeds up to 400 kilometres, miles or any other unit of measure an hour. The watch of stylish 904L steel with a polished finish has a black or white lacquer dial outfitted with 18-carat white gold appliques and hands. The watch’s case is waterproof to 100 metres and the case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. Rolex, the official timekeeper for Formula 1 racing, designed the Cosmograph Daytona, which was originally created in 1963, to meet the timing needs of professional endurance racing drivers. - P.V. Rolex Boutique 56 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 53 63 00 50

Man Bags If you’re looking to upgrade your accessories and in particular your man bag then you must pay Ateliers Auguste a visit. The made in France leather goods brand specialising in bags was launched in 2012 by two brothers, Laurent and Xavier, who wanted to offer all gentlemen an array of bags to choose from to suit and cater to all situations and styles. Backpacks, weekend bags and messenger bags are only some of the designs on offer, with each design named after a Parisian neighbourhood or street, a nod to the city where it all started for the brothers. Gentlemen will find an impressive selection of bags to choose from, from leather trimmed weekend bags to wool felt iPad cases, there is a design to elegantly complement any style adopted, from savvy businessman to preppy Englishman. Atelier Auguste Boutique 8 rue de Turenne (11th), 01 48 05 91 36

Capture your precious moments old-school style with the new limited edition Instax Mini 70. Fujifilm has collaborated with trend powerhouse Colette to bring photography amateurs the Colette x Instax camera. Weighing in at only 281 grams, the instant camera is every fashionable gentleman’s must-have accessory to capture every moment while sightseeing around the French capital. Available at Colette

Atelier Auguste © Atelier Auguste

Insta Moments

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Shopping

For Children

Cartoon Connections It’s all about the animated world when it comes to children with Crayola releasing a Finding Dory watercolour art set that helps you unleash your child’s inner Picasso. Children will love painting the popular characters and parents will love the fact that the kit comes with washable watercolours. And over at ready-to-wear brand Lucien Pellat-Finet, The Peanuts Movie has made its way into the capsule collection that includes cashmere sweaters featuring Snoopy. Crayola kits available at La Grande Récré toy stores. Lucien Pellat-Finet Boutique 231 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 22 22 77

ADVERTORIAL

Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet)

Atelier Auguste © Atelier Auguste

20 ave Trudaine - Paris 9th Tel: 01 48 78 23 85 (M° Anvers)

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SHOPPING SHOPPING

Vintage Vintage Advertorial Advertorial Coeur Coeur de de Luxe Luxe PASSY / LA MUETTE PASSY / LA MUETTE

The The Date Date PASSY PASSY

•• ••

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Ibis Ibis Rouge Rouge

SÈVRES-BABYLONE SÈVRES-BABYLONE

Coeur Coeur de de Luxe Luxe th 21 21 rue rue de de l’Annonciation l’Annonciation (16 (16th),), M° M° Passy Passy or or La La Muette Muette Tel : + 33 (0)1 45 25 11 38 Tel : + 33 (0)1 45 25 11 38 www.coeurdeluxe-paris.com www.coeurdeluxe-paris.com (e-shop (e-shop coming coming soon) soon) contact@coeurdeluxe-paris.com contact@coeurdeluxe-paris.com Monday: Monday: 2pm 2pm to to 6pm. 6pm. Tuesday Tuesday to to Saturday: Saturday: 11am 11am to to 7pm 7pm

Chanel, Chanel, Hermès, Hermès, Vuitton, Vuitton, Dior, Dior, Prada, Prada, Louboutin Louboutin and and more... more... All are carefully selected in this boutique dedicated All are carefully selected in this boutique dedicated to to give give another another life life to to luxury luxury goods: goods: bags, bags, ready-to-wear ready-to-wear collections, collections, th fashion fashion accessories, accessories, jewellery, jewellery, shoes. shoes. Located Located in in the the chic chic 16 16th arrondissement. Also a great place to fi nd gift ideas. Near the arrondissement. Also a great place to find gift ideas. Near the Trocadéro. Trocadéro.

L’Ibis L’Ibis Rouge Rouge th 35 35 Blvd Blvd Raspail Raspail (7 (7th),), M° M° Sèvres-Babylone Sèvres-Babylone Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 98 21 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr -- facebook.com/L’Ibis facebook.com/L’Ibis Rouge Rouge Open from Tuesday to Saturday 12 7pm Open from Tuesday to Saturday 12 - 7pm

This This beautiful beautiful and and original original boutique boutique in in the the heart heart of of Saint Saint Germain des Prés off ers a unique array of vintage Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture couture fashion fashion and and jewellery jewellery including including pieces pieces by by Chanel, Chanel, Lanvin, Lanvin, YSL YSL and and Dior. Dior. You You will will also also fi find nd aa fi fine ne selection selection of of vintage vintage alligator alligator bags bags and and contemporary contemporary jewellery jewellery pieces pieces from from French French and and foreign designers. foreign designers.

The The Date Date th 3 3 rue rue de de la la Tour Tour (16 (16th),), M° M° Passy Passy Tel: +33 (0)9 52 35 18 39 Tel: +33 (0)9 52 35 18 39 thedate.latour@gmail.com thedate.latour@gmail.com Open Open from from Tuesday Tuesday to to Saturday Saturday 11pm 11pm to to 7pm 7pm

Isabelle Isabelle welcomes welcomes you you and and presents presents the the best best selection selection of of luxurious luxurious handbags, handbags, accessories accessories and and prestigious prestigious clothes clothes from from the the greatest greatest designers designers including including Chanel, Chanel, Dior, Dior, Hermès, Hermès, Louis Louis Vuitton... Vuitton... and and many many others. others. You You will will fi find nd some some rare rare treasure at the best price. treasure at the best price. The The Date, Date, the the unforgettable unforgettable address address of of Paris. Paris. 40 WHERE Pa r i s I O C TO B E R 2016

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SHOPPING Beauty

LATHER YOUR SKIN WITH CARE After the past couple of months soaking in the sun it is time to give your skin new life. Here we arm you with the best products to get rid of old skin, making way for smoother and younger looking skin, all over. Nothing feels better than silky smooth skin and the best way to get it is with an exfoliator that will delicately remove dull skin. Aveda’s Beautifying Radiance Polish for your body is a great two-in-one find as it not only exfoliates your skin with its mineral-rich salt crystals it also moisturises it thanks to its nourishing blend of organic sunflower, safflower and olive oils. If your skin is feeling a little bit dehydrated and in need of some extra TLC you must try Bonpoint’s Crème Corps. The voluptuous body cream, with three floral extracts and blended with cotton milk, penetrates the skin and nourishes it, leaving it feeling baby smooth, and with its delicate formula it is suitable for sensitive skin and children so you can share it with your little princess. If you were less than careful over the summer with protecting your skin it is time for a little bit of damage control. Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II aims to increase the skin’s natural renewal process at night, leaving the skin feeling hydrated and with a reduced appearance of fine lines. And this month starting from the 3rd of October, Estée Lauder continues its support of fighting breast cancer by donating 10% of the sale of each Pink Ribbon limited edition bottle of the serum, which also comes with a pink ribbon pin, to the French breast cancer foundation, Le Cancer du Sein, Parlons-en!. After your serum make sure you get your skin to work overtime while you sleep with Lierac’s Magnificence Nuit, a detoxifying and smoothing night cream. The refreshing gel-in-balm formula, which feels rich and cool on your face, promises to promote radiance and increase its firmness, leaving you looking younger and more radiant in the morning, and all you have to do is go to sleep.

ADDRESS BOOK AVEDA BOUTIQUE 7 rue du Louvre (1st), 01 40 26 18 07

BONPOINT BOUTIQUE 320 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 49 27 94 82

ESTÉE LAUDER Available at Printemps

LIERAC Available at Pharmacie du Marché 51 rue Montorgueil (2nd), 01 42 33 25 41 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 41

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1 ), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal st

children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries

Boggi Milano

| Clothing: Men & Women

clothing: Men & WoMen Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. M° Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.84.52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Mettez - 12 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.65.33.76. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt

Yohji Yamamoto

Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde

depArtMent stores & shopping centres

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1er), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

eye WeAr

Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th),

01.44.07.04.28. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

Italia Independent - 47 rue du Four (6th) ,

01.42.22.40.34. M° Saint-Sulpice Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

hoMe

Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

| Clothing: Men & Women

42 WHERE Pa r i s I O C TO B E R 2016

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shopping

Address Book

Anna Rivka - 27 rue de Richelieu (1st), 09.81.04.61.53. M° Palais Royal Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde

Beretta Gallery

Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire

Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V

Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries

Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),

01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau Tumi - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30.M° Concorde

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques

lingerie

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

shoes

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

luggAge And BAgs

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde

| Clothing: Men & Women

Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Arche - 11 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.40.15.91.85. M° Madeleine

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Galet – 8 rue de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.54.56.24. M° Odéon Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 50 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

Gucci Watches

| Jewellery & Watches

w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 43

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LUXURY MAP

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

Leica •

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Bucherer

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RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ

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Place Vendôme

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Wine by One

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Tommy Hilfiger

•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • Miki House

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• Eres • Swarovski

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling

•Guerlain

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Marina Église de la Madeleine Rinaldi Lancaster • • •Gianfranco Lotti • Marella • Max Mara Kenzo VA

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Wempe

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •

Yamamoto

247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com

•

Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje •

L ’A R C

MADELEINE

Valentino •

RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN

Césaire•

•

CONCORDE

• Royal Poiray Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •

RUE DE

Oliver Grant

•

•• • •

RUE ROYALE

• Yohji

With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Lanvin La Perla Longines Prada Escales Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci • • • Ralph Lauren

• •

Lanvin

Jardin des Tuileries

DSQUARED2

’

RUE

RUE DE SURÈNE

t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris

Place de la Concorde

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

SHOP STOP

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RU E DE DU RA

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Burma D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • •Bally •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Capelstore • Hogan • Ermenegildo Zegna U Salvatore Ferragamo ’A N J O RUE D Lancôme • • • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Glashütte Original • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • • Crockett Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S • A UE P Cartier • R Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •

JANSSENS & JANSSENS In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

R D H A U SS

Miss• Griffes

RUE

• Loriblu

B O U LE VA

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• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES US

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RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

MIR

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Élysée Palace

E ED

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

MIR

•

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Pierre Cardin

OÉT

Azzaro • Vhernier • E F.P. Journe

AVENUE DE MARIGNY

•

Gratianne Bascans

•

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

•

AVE NUE DE MATIGN

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Steiger

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WEMPE

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•

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Richard Mille Cifonelli E

• VENUE D•

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MIROMESNIL

• Emanuel Berg • Sothys

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

44 WHERE Pa r i s I O C TO B E R 2016

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If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

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LUXURY MAP Le Marais

SHOP STOP

A IR E

YM E

VIEIL

RUE

DE THORIGNY

RUE

RUE DES ARC HIV ES

TEMP

RUE DU TEMPLE

VI GN É RU E SÉ

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▼

RUE PAVEE

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Village Saint Paul ■

• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane • Les Exprimeurs PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier •

RUE CH

• Iki •Pierre Boisset

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

ANÇOIS

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

RUE RUE DE LOBAU

RUE

RUE DU TEMPLE

Place des Vosges

Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch L’Occitane

SAINT-PAUL Sentou

•

RIVOLI RUE DE

HOTEL DE VILLE

RUE

•

Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d ue Diptyq in Guerla

VIEIL

•

RUE

Nicolaï

LE DU

Mi-Mai • Ambali • RUE BARBETTE Manoush • • Jamin Puech Musée Cognacq-Jay Officinal Slowear • Aesol ■ • ➞ • Paul & Joe Marionnaud Paris RUE DES Penhaligon’s FRANCS BO • Chanel URGEOIS Ted • ■ Musée • Carhartt • •Esteban Baker Fragonard • Carnavalet RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • URGEOIS • Barbara •• •• ➞ Iro • Michael • • Essentiel • Bui Uniqlo Aubade Kors •• • • J.M. Weston Eres a •TEAUX RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d a o e • Bimba y Lola &S iT rry oth Fusalp • • • sm Pe Sc u d Maje Devernois K • • • Alain Mikli Maison • re Créa Concept L’Argenterie Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • •RFU • Cos E de Turenne D ES Lipault RO • • SIERS • • Heschung• • • • Moustaches All Saints RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire Ugg Paule Ka RUE DE JARENTE Huygens K.Jacques • • • Trudon Thomas Sabo• Masha J.Crew Vicomte A • RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE • Carven Keja • • Gucci• •John Galliano • Fleux Lacoste • • Mode en Thierry Villenave Nike RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Crockett • Karl • Valentino • ILE • • Demeure Le BHV Marais • & Jones Lagerfeld • • Moncler RUE DU ROI DE SIC • • l’Homme Chevignon E • Fendi T- AN TO IN • RU E SA IN Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché

Le BHV Marais

16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com

M IN E

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A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the english luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

COM

RUE DU TEMPLE

Centre Pompidou

RU E DE LA

RIVOLI RUE DE

CROCKETT & JONES

SHOP STOP

Gloss

T O IS S A R JLC Opticien Le Slip RUE FR • de APC • Cuisse Les Prairies de Paris • Français • Le Labo grenouille • Merci • X Atelier Oska • CHOU Ami • Lords&Fools P O N T A U X Cologne • • • U French UE D SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Sandro• Helmut • Trotters FROISSART • Lang Florian • ITOU Robinson Denicourt Christophe • DE PO Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Gant •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T • Calais • APC S E Stephane Sonia U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Rykiel Cheap • • Customellow • Monday • Louis Quatorze Nice• Eclectic Tom Vanessa Bruno • • Things • Greyhound • Les Petites •James •Mr • Bonastre • Le Mont Saint Michel Fred Marzo • La Fée Maraboutée ■ • Consuelo RU E DE S 4 FI LS Musée National Picasso • Zoelly ENN

96 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 86 07 www.lemontsaintmichel.fr

Maison

• Kitsune • Melinda

TUR

LE MONT SAINT MICHEL Established in 1913, Le Mont Saint Michel is a genuine French label, designed by Alexandre Milan. The shops, featuring interesting, emerging articles offer a large selection of garments and accessories for men and women, all made from the very best quality yarns and fabrics. Our stories and style are inspired by French lifestyle and modern design .

UD RI ET TE

White Bird • Bonton•

E E D

RU E DE S HA

• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

SHOP STOP

CALV

RU E CH AR LO

RU E DE PI CA

RD IE

AR EL LI

RU E DE CA FF

• DE

•

RUE PASTOURELLE

•

État Libre d'Orange

FILLES DU CALVAIRE

ENN

Paul Smith

ILL

TUR

106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

AG NE

Liquides • April 77

E E D

RU E DE BR ET

LOUIS QUATORZE

13 Bonaparte Isabel •NOR• MA Marant ND • Ron Dorff IE • March La.B Popelini •

Monsieur Paris • Mes Demoiselles •

•

Verreries de Brehat

ENN

La Boutique Extraordinaire •

•

RU E PE RR ÉE

Empreintes •

Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

UR E T E D

Carreau du Temple ■ The Broken Arm

RUE

S DU

UAR

F IL L E

THO

DES

ETIT

RUE

DU P

RUE DU TEMPLE

RUE

RUE DE L’HOTEL DE VILLE QUAI DES CÉLESTINS

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LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées-Montaigne

SHOP STOP

LLOT

•

NUE

Ekso Watches

•

Kenzo

• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • Bang & Olufsen • GrandOptical RUE BALZAC

•

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

1 ER

ÇOIS

FRAN

RUE

DOR

OCCA

DU B

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE

ALBERT

RA UE F

OU JO N

1ER

AVE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

• Marionnaud Paris • Marks&Spencer RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

•M.A.C. •Levi’s •Furla •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

OÉT

• •

Elysées Horlogerie

RUE DE PONTHIEU

COURS

50 avenue des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 26 47 www.jmweston.fr

• J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver Château Euphorie

•Galerie 26

•Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

ATIG

NON

NFÉRENCE

J.M. Weston, master shoemaker since 1891, cultivates a quintessentially French elegance with its iconic models, such as the famous loafers 180. The brand opened in April 2016 its latest shop in Le Marais, a setting built like a contemporary workshop that reflects the brand's extensive experience and distinctive collections.

•

GEORGE V Louis • IKKS Vuitton•

CEA

Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Ellie • Dubail • Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier RUE UE Les Suites • • EN AV Arije• • PIE• RRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi RRO • Audemars Scabal N Tea • • Chaumet Piguet •EORGE V Beretta G E Dubail U • Paraboot N Paule Ka E • Burma• AV RUE M• • Sicis • RUE Carvil ARBEU F P •Tom Ford IER•R EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux E M• • Smalto OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Paul&Joe • Wine by One • • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Bonbon Watch • Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN Lampe Berger E E MAR Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• Paris RUE D Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • FRANKLIN • Maison Ullens Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NU Akris Chanel • E MON • Givenchy TAIGN • Fendi • Chanel • E • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Chloé• • Van Loewe • • •Marni Pucci •• ••• Ralph Lauren Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Jil Sander Blumarine LT EVE S.T.Dupont OOS Elie Saab • LIN D.R PORT DE LA CO

J.M. WESTON

• Milady

E AV

AVE

SHOP STOP

CA EN AV

U CEA EM AR AV EN U

Dinh Van • Hugo Boss

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

SANO

E BAS

Lancel •

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

A EDL

AVE

FRI

ALILÉ

AHO

RUE G

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

NU AVE

’IÉ UE D

AC M

NUE AVE

Galerie-Musée Baccarat

M NUE

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

NA D’IÉ

Publicis Drugstore •

RUE DE CHAI

BERETTA GALLERY

AVE

SHOP STOP

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

Arc de Triomphe

Place des États-Unis ■

ALILÉ

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

RUE

49 ave Montaigne – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 20 47 49 www.akris.ch

RUE G

DOUX

Akris is an international fashion house founded in 1922 and based in St. Gallen, Switzerland. Creative director Albert Kriemler designs fashion forward women’s wear that is highlighted by an architectural flair. Its lines are clear and simple, the stylistic approach varied yet uncomplicated.

FOC

AKRIS

ISTO

AVENUE KLÉBER

RUE JEAN GIRAU

Fabio Caviglia•

LAUR

NUE

RUE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

AVE

AV Marina • ENUE VIC Rinaldi TOR

NUE

AVE

IN NKL

EVE

OOS

D.R

FRA

Grand Palais

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Paris 49, Avenue Montaigne +33 1 47 20 47 49 Boutique Akris en ligne www.akris.ch

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LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

HAVRECAUMARTIN

BOU

ARTI CAUM

•

I AR D VI

• •

R U E ÈD OU

Tag Heuer

•Bally • • • IKKS

Hackett

EL OU

Tommy Hilfiger

DES

Waskoll A. Lange Omega • • Christofle & Söhne • Harmont • Repetto E U & Blaine Mauboussin R • Lalique Cartier Harrison • Piaget • • Diesel Hugo Boss • Bodum Panerai • Jimmy Choo X •Dinh Van I IWC • PA Burma Alexander McQueen Wine by One • Van Cleef • L A • E • Lery • Louis Vuitton & Arpels • E D • Breitling Emporio Armani U Jaquet Droz R • Cartier • Dior Bvlgari Dubail • Anshindo • Miki • •Vacheron Constantin •• Graff House • Diamond’s • • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger•Boucheron • • R UE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU • • ST Breguet • Hublot RU • Zadig & ED FreyWille Dior Patek Philippe Place du Marché ES Voltaire PE • Saint-Honoré TIT M CA

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

•

Montagut • • Dodo RU Moynat Richard • ED • U M Grand ON • • Balenciaga T Paule Ka

T LLE JUI 29

L HU

H OC S

DE MI

ES RU

ED U

D’A

-H

EM É

E IÉR UD

E RA PY

•

T-R

Penhaligon’s • Mulberry •

Tourist Office • PYRAMIDES

Acaba RU

ET HÉ

RÈ

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

Perrin •

S-C

NE IO GL

Piquadro

• • •Valérie Danenberg Missoni Honoré •Saint •Ami ••M.A.C • Bonpoint Colette

• Frank Namani

• Jovoy

-H

-TH

•

H.Stern Arije

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr

Boggi

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

•

At Acaba, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will suit you. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. The 2015 collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials. 11am to 7pm. Closed on Sunday.

Lancel

• • • Samsonite • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty •Basler

•

Les Marquis

ACABA

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

•Gant • •

Bucherer

Montblanc

•

• Episode

Golfino

RUE

•

SHOP STOP

RUE MOG ADOR

• Fragonard

GOD

OT D

RUE

•

Sephora

1 rue Aubert - Paris 9th (M° Opéra) Tel: +33 (0)1 45 18 48 88 www.lanadicapra.com

Opéra Garnier

INS

RUE

LANA DI CAPRA Lana Di Capra’s boutique in Place de l’Opéra is where you will find the designer’s world of cashmere. Discover the elegant handmade collection, which offers shoppers 180 colours to choose from.

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

J.M. Weston•

HUR

Exaltation Lana di Capra

Mario Dessuti

•Zwilling

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

MADELEINE

MAT

RUE BOUDREA U

• Loding

Église de la Madeleine

DES

VIGN

AUR

CH ON TR E

RUE

•

Le Tanneur

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

Le Carré d’Encre

• Fauchon

U EA

Paraboot•

LEV

•

SHOP STOP

Galeries Lafayette Homme

Andrea

URIN

IBE

ATH

ES CR

ES M

DE CA RU ED

RUE

’AR

L DE

P R O V EN

• Moda di

RU E JO UB ER

Guerlain •

RUE DE

•

VICTOIRE

ADOR

Printemps Beauté-Maison

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T

Printemps Mode

MOG

Printemps Homme

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

Galeries du Diamant •

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CACHEMIRE

Authenticity, Elegance

Handmade

APERTURE OCTOBRE 2016 1 Rue Auber 75009 Paris

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LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

SAIN

•

TS-P

NEU

ÉRES

E E AU N DE B

VER

RUE

DES TS-P DES

R TE

RUE BON A PA

DRA

GON

S PA IL ARD RA

RUE

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RUE DE SEINE

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE SERVANDONI

VÉ RI L’A R

RUE FÉROU

Jamin • Puech

RU E BO NA PA RT E

ASS

RUE MAD AME

ARN

RUE DE TOURNON

NES

REN

DE RUE

NES

NTP

REN

Montparnasse

RUE DES CANETTES

E RU

Église Saint-Sulpice RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

▼ DU

• Rive Gauche

MONTPARNASSEBIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V DE DG A

•

ES SA RU E D’OD

11 rue de l’Arrivée - Paris 15th www.montparnasserivegauche.com

• Rowena Forrest

BVD

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

• Guerlain

S PA IL ARD RA

BOULEV

• Wolford

Montparnasse Rive Gauche is a premier destination for a great shopping and dining experience. In the heart of Paris enjoy the famous retailers such as Galeries Lafayette, C&A, Nature & Découvertes, Lacoste... At the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower at the visit panoramic.

•

Poiray Inédit Joaillier • Liu Jo BO Christian • U • Façonnable L E VA RUE • Cremieux • • Louboutin DE L RD Louis • ’A B SAI • Agent B AY Repeat NTVuitton E Sonia • • Provocateur GER • Rykiel • M • AIN The Brunello Cucinelli Slowear • Burberry SAINT-GERMAIN Hugo Ralph Store Emporio • Voyeurs • • Paul Smith • Boss Lauren DES-PRÉS Armani Paul & • Ami BOU • Shadé • Césarée Joe • • • LEV L.K. ARD Stefanel• Cartier SAIN • Céline Bennett Lancel T-GE • RMA Ferragamo Rolex• Dinh Van IN Carven • MABILLON • • Hackett• Crockett & Jones Alexis Mabille • Montblanc • Kenzo• Gas • Paraboot • Bijoux • • J.M. WestonUR Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • Vicomte A • • RUE DU FOSilk & • • Cashmere Sportmax• Prada • • Tod’s Marina Rinaldi IKKS • Max&Moi •DVF • U FOUR Sir Gentleman La Perla • Alain Mikli • D • Driver Durance RUE Dot-Drops M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Implicite Omega Lampe S Berluti • • • Berger Paris Saint Saint Michel ÉVRE • DE S Swatch • • E U RUE DE BABYLONE • R • Agnès b Laurent • Longines •Derhy Camper • • RUE SAINT-SULPICE SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp • • Eléonore • Hermès Emaldi Robert • E IC Galet • LP U Clergerie -S SAINT-SULPICE Zadig ST E U R Le Bon Loxwood S & Voltaire E My Tokki • • Marché S É V R

•

MONTPARNASSE RIVE GAUCHE

Gab&Jo

•

Francis Klein • Faienceries •• de Gien Emaux de Longwy Fabrice

BOULEV

SHOP STOP

EJ AC

RU E MA ZAR INE

Debauve &

RUE

RU E DE SEI NE

ÉRES

Elsa

• Vanier

• John Lobb Gallais • Bang DS • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA • Karl Lagerfeld IN • • Aubercy

5 rue de Tournon - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 40 46 02 90 / www.emaldi.fr

A PA R BON RUE

Escales •

▼ • JLC Opticien

ELEONORE EMALDI

RUE

•

The Kooples

RUE

RUE DU BAC

Fashionable, elegant and extremely flattering: Eleonore Emaldi’s ready-to-wear collections are all created with luxurious, high quality fabrics for the ultimate in comfy-chic. Made in Italy, they represent all that a Parisian woman would adore, from day to evening and all occasions. Visit our intimate boutique for a chance to meet the designer and have her personally choose something elegant for you to wear.

Poltrona Frau • Silvera

Hartwood • Deyrolle Gérard • Darel

LTA I

AC ITÉ

Maje •

•

LIL

SAIN

SHOP STOP

Ofée . •

18 rue Mabillon - Paris 6 Tel: +33 (0)1 46 34 39 72 www.lemontsaintmichel.fr

IVE

RUE

Established in 1913, Le Mont Saint Michel is a genuine French label, designed by Alexandre Milan. The shops, featuring interesting, emerging articles offer a large selection of garments and accessories for men and women, all made from the very best quality yarns and fabrics. Our stories and style are inspired by French lifestyle and modern design .

DU B

LE MONT SAINT MICHEL

•

ED EL ’UN

RUE

Renaissance •

Moissonnier

• Aga

RUE

Santiago Lomelli•

E AU V

DE B

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

UIN

VAU G RUE DE

IR A R D

Jardins du Luxembourg

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11 rue du Dragon - 75006 PARIS - TÃ©l + 33 (0) 1 45 48 86 86 - www.cesareebijoux.com

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Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

•

ofle •

RUE ROYALE

•

Le Jacquard Français

MA EV

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

L’O

Pie

RUE DU LOUVR E

•

Bonpoint IRO

• • • •

• •

• Galerie Véro-Dodat

’AB

• • •

All Saints Y’s

Christian Louboutin

Hartford

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

by Terry Xavier Lust

Maje

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

Place des Victoires

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

rre Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

•

RUE DE RIVOLI

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

0039 Italy

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

RUE DE VALOIS

Musée du Louvre

• De Fursac

RUE VIVIENNE

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

ANGELA CAPUTI

RUE RICHELIEU

Galerie de Montpensier

Francesco Russo

ÉR

Acaba•

Galerie de Valois

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

PALAIS ROYAL

• Ma

Printemps du Louvre

’OP

• PYRAMIDES

de iso l’A n m br e •D id •An ier •Q L na R ee ud i lin ot vka

• RedLine

•

CIN

SHOP STOP

E NU

•

L DE

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

FreyWille

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

Lamarthe

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Chemins• Blancs

Opéra Garnier

•

RUE SAINT-ROCH

•Cotélac

RUE DE LA PA IX

ONORÉ

Carrousel du Louvre

RUE S A IN T -H

13-15 Galerie de Montpensier, Jardin du Palais Royal - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 40 15 07 98 M° Palais Royal - Musée du Louvre www.amber-paris.com

The Kooples •

Vendôme

•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES •Lyubov Jack Russell • • Perrin • Burma •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Manoush• Montagut Kiehl’s • • Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Saint Honoré Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Notify• Peuterey • • Paraboot La Prairie •

In the very heart of historic Paris this unique specialized amber store pleasantly surprises you with its diverse and exceptional designs of amber jewelry. All items are made exclusively of highquality natural amber.

Place

Goyard •

•Dubail

•

RUE S A IN T -H

RUE DE RIVOLI

IG LI ON E

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

RU E CA MB ON Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Messika• Tommy • Coach Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• • Emporio Armani Ports • Marc Jacobs • 2 DsQuared • •Miki House Tumi• Arije Bally • J.M. • • Wine Weston Chopard RU E CA ST by One •

18/20 Place de la Madeleine - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 30 73 13 Metro: Madeleine (lines 8, 12 and 14)

LA MAISON DE L’AMBRE

•

Jamin Puech Hedgren

LEI

• Barrie

CA MB ON

SHOP STOP

• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault

Hublot • Chronopassion • Maje• Parakian Paris •RU E

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Marella

Césaire

Église de la Madeleine

Italian clothing and accessory brand Marella offers glamorous, contemporary, female fashion for all occasions. Merging the latest trends with Italian style, Marella proposes a wide range of coats, jackets, blouses, dresses, footwear, handbags and much more.

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

MADELEINE

RUE ROYALE • •Vertu Wempe • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara

•

■

Dior

••

•

Jeu de Paume

Gucci

•

• Oliver Grant

MARELLA

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

•Lanvin •La Perla •Prada Chanel •Pinko

Espace Cachemire

•

rist Ch

CONCORDE

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai

Burberry

•

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Turn to page 58 to discover more of Galerie Hadjer’s tapestries

Heavy Circles - Wassily Kandisnsky © Art Digital Studio

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Exhibitions

A Journey A highly colourful show, part road show, part spiritual quest, entitled The Trip, is being played out at Polka Galerie with stunning photographs by English photographer Matt Henry. Fascinated by American politics and culture of the 1960s and 1970s, the photographer imagined and crafted a visual narration of this period with his subjects, two American couples from the American south, wearing period costumes and guided on a psychedelic journey by the visionary owner of a gas station called Acid James. The theme of The Trip is not only psychedelic but philosophical as well, and plunges the visitor into the post-Vietnam era of the United States when individual change and exploration was perceived as a solution to the atrocities of war. Through to October 29 Cour de Venise, 12 rue Saint-Gilles (3rd), 01 76 21 41 30

The Trip # 14, 2015 © Matt Henry, Courtesy Polka Galerie; René Magritte © Adagp, Paris 2016 © Photothèque R. Magritte/ Banque d’Images, Adagp, Paris, 2016

Heavy Circles - Wassily Kandisnsky © Art Digital Studio

arts&attractions

Musings on Magritte Centre Pompidou is presenting a major exhibition devoted to one of the key figures of Modern Art, Belgian artist René Magritte. The show, entitled Magritte. La Trahision des Images (Magritte. The Treachery of Images) brings together some 100 paintings, drawings and documents while offering a completely new approach to his work. Showcasing both well-known masterpieces and lesser-known works emanating from public and private collections, the show explores the artist’s interest in philosophy. His work is characterised by a series of motifs, often thought provoking, including curtains, shadows, words, flames and more that he constantly arranges and re-arranges. Already back in 1927 he would create his first paintings of words in which he would confront an object with a written definition that had no logical relationship to the chosen object. The show explores the ensemble of his work, which spanned four decades. Showing all month Place Georges-Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 57

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Galerie TaménaGa

IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Bernard BUFFeT MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Gris, Klee, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet,... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano,... 18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Galerie Hadjer, which specialises in textiles and carries modern and old tapestries dating from the 16th to the 20th century, is presenting very large format textiles of works by major masters of Modern Art including Robert Delaunay, Alexej von Jawlensky, Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Amedeo Modigliani and Pïet Mondrian. The gallery, now being operated by the second generation of the Hadjer family, decided to baptise this textile collection Hadjer66, the date of the gallery’s creation. Each of the tapestries has been brought out in a limited edition of eight numbered pieces and they were handmade in wool in France at the Manufacture de Bourgogne. From October 10 to 24 102 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 66 61 13

Cariatide, Amadeo Modigliani © Art Digital Studio

Tremendous Tapestries

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YASMINA ALAOUI Red Square #1, 2016 Acrylic paint, pigments, salt and gravel on wood - 158 x 158 cm - 62.2 x 62. 2 in.

62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris T. +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 Mon.- Sat. 10 am - 7.30 pm • Sun. 11 am - 7 pm

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arts&attractions Exhibitions

Civilising Ceramics The world of ceramics is unfolding at the Paris-Charles de Gaulle airport in a colourful selection of pieces featuring blue, white and gold. For its sixth exhibition, the Espace Musées, with the support of Aéroports de Paris in partnership with Sèvres - Cité de la Céramique, brings together over 60 works from the collection of the Musée National de Sèvres and presents a range of objects in materials ranging from ancient terracotta to porcelain. The show entitled Réinventer L’Ailleurs (Reinventing New Horizons) shows how various trends and techniques in ceramics have evolved over the years and displays to the international passengers passing through the airport the role ceramics has played in facilitating cultural exchanges. Showing all month Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport, Terminal 2E, Hall M

A very visual exhibition is on view at the Galerie Dutko with some 20 works by contemporary French artist AndréPierre Arnal. The show entitled Déchirure Oblique, which means diagonal tear, presents works of torn paintings superimposed upon one another creating a unique effect somewhere between abstraction and optical illusion. The highly aesthetic works are literally and surprisingly made from the artist’s torn up paintings and marked by his experimentation with materials and predilection for colour. Influenced by Matisse, American abstract artists and Paul Klee, he has throughout his career explored a multitude of techniques and the use of various materials ranging from cotton canvas to the blackboard. With Déchirure Oblique he has also re-invented the theme of the series through the multiplication of his painted works. Showing all month 4 rue de Bretonvilliers (4th), 01 43 26 17 77

Arman, Interactive Triptyque Vase © Gerard Jonca; André-Pierre Arnal, Déchirure Oblique series Courtesy Galerie Dutko

Terrific Tears

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ART FAIR MODERN . CONTEMPORARY . DESIGN

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arts&attractions Monuments

Where Pass Partner. The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charlesde-Gaulle-Etoile

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through

Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun;

Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 10€. 6 Parvis NotreDame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Through Sept 25 Choréographes Américains à l’Opéra de Paris, this show takes a look at American choreographers and their approach to dance. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeurmontmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-laBarre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9:30am-6pm, Mon-Fri closed between 1pm & 2:15pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

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Address Book

arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Canesso

This gallery has a fine selection of Old Master and Italian paintings. Its museum-quality works date from the Renaissance to the 18th century. A host of themes are found in the paintings ranging from religion and mythology to landscapes and portraits. 26 rue Laffitte (9th), 01.40.22.61.71. M°Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette

Galerie Lelong

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Canal Saint-Martin

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm.13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Galerie NMariño

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

This sophisticated and welcoming gallery in the Marais neighbourhood specialises in geometric abstraction and kinetic art. The house showcases both confirmed and emerging talents and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent collections. William Barbosa, Martha Boto and Hans Kotter are among the artists represented by the gallery. Tues-Sat 1pm-6pm. 8 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais (3rd), 01.48.87.49.75. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Canal Saint-Martin | Attractions

Where Pass Partner Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris

With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Les Étoiles du Rex

Travel to the heart of cinema. A unique and interactive visit into the magical world of cinema and into the backstage of the largest movie theatre in Europe. Fabulous fun and entertainment for the whole family. WedSun 10am-7pm including bank holidays and everyday during French school holidays. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd), 01.45.08.93.58. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Manoir de Paris

Where Pass Partner The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and

listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Parc Asterix

Where Pass Partner This theme park brings you back in time to sample life as it was in a Gallic village. Magic potions, menhirs, cauldrons and a forest of druids are just a sampling of the attractions in this fun-filled park, one of the most popular in all of France. Thirty kilometres north of Paris on the A1 highway direction, Lille, exit Parc Asterix between exits 7 and 8. Access directly from Paris with the shuttle bus which leaves from the coach park at the Carrousel du Louvre (follow the signs to ”parking autocars”).

Parc Zoologique de Paris

Where Pass Partner This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Paris Story

A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Pavillons de Bercy

Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

Aquarium Sea Life

Where Pass Partner Plunge into the intriguing world of cephalopods at this educational display featuring several species of octopus. The giant Pacific octopus, the nautilus and the Wonderpus will join the 5000 creatures that are already housed at the aquarium. Centre Commercial Val d’Europe, 14 Cours du Danube, 77711 Marne-laVallée, 01.60.42.33.66, RER A to Val d’Europe station, 10 min by foot

boat cruises Bateaux Parisiens Where Pass Partner

Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua) | Attractions

Giant glass-roofed tour boats

Canal Saint-Martin©Mairie de Paris_C. Belin

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Address Book

departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches

Where Pass Partner The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Double-deck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01

Vedettes du Pont Neuf

These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf Where Pass Partner

River Limousine

Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris

Where Pass Partner Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/ RER C Champs de Mars

Yachts de Paris

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

day trips Auvers sur Oise

Bateaux Parisiens ©iStock-Evgeny Sergeev

The French countryside and the village where Van Gogh spent the last months of his life are just 27 km from Paris. In town you can visit a 17th century chateau and the Maison Van Gogh (open Mar through Oct). SNCF from Gare du Nord to Valmondois, then change for Auvers-sur-Oise (about 1 hr 15 min)

Chartres

The town of Chartres is known for its splendid cathedral with magnificent stained glass windows. You can also visit the Centre International du Vitrail, a workshop and museum devoted to stained glass which is unique in Europe. SNCF from Gare Montparnasse (about 1 hr); last return train to Paris about 9pm.

Château de Fontainebleau

Where Pass Partner A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. Wed-Mon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Where Pass Partner Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts

of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

Troyes

A delightful small city in the heart of the Champagne country. Narrow streets of halftimbered houses with gabled roofs and private mansions dating from the Renaissance are an integral part of the charm of this quintessential provincial town, which became the seat of the Counts of Champagne in the 9th century. The city is doted with a fine array of museums, a superb cathedral and spectacular churches. Direct trains depart regularly from the Gare de l’Est (about 90 minutes)

gardens Jardin d’Acclimatation

A traditional French children’s park in the scenic Bois de Boulogne replete with rides, exhibitions, pavilions, a puppet theatre, a riding academy, restaurants and picnic grounds. Daily 10am-6pm. Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.40.67.90.85. M° Les Sablons

Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie

These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for

The Where Pass is Paris’s newest, all-encompassing travellers’ ticket allowing visitors to experience the city’s top attractions with attractive discounts and integrated transport. Visiting Paris has never been more convenient. www.wherepassparis.com Château de Fontainebleau | Day Trips w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 65

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example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.

Bustronome

This original tour combines fine food with sightseeing. During the lunch or dinner tour you can see the city’s major sites and monuments from the double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof while enjoying a complete meal revolving around seasonal products. 2 ave Kléber (16th), 09.54.44.45.55. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

L’Open Tour Paris

Where Pass Partner Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Espace Dali

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers Where Pass Partner

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

Retro Tour

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Paris City Vision

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

Your American Friend in Paris

Terrance Gelenter will show you a Paris au Flaneur you’ve never seen before. Choose the Classic program or let him customize an itinerary. 06.70.98.13.68. www.paris-expat.com

museums & fondations Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins

The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glassplate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne - Pont de Saint-Cloud

Musée d’Orsay

left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

Where Pass Partner This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée de l’Homme

Where Pass Partner The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée de l’Orangerie

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Where Pass Partner France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. Wed-Mon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Mona Bismarck American Center | Museums & Fondations

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac ©Cyril Zannettacci

Centre Georges Pompidou

Mona Bismarck American Center

Bustronome | Guided Tours

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Musée de la Vie Romantique

A lovely 19th century home and garden with mementos of George Sand and paintings by Ary Scheffer. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. 16 rue Chaptal (9th), 01.55.31.95.67. M° Blanche

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Musée des Arts et Métiers

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Where Pass Partner Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac

Where Pass Partner An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée du Vin

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac ©Cyril Zannettacci

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest

limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Palais Galliera

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée Grévin

Where Pass Partner A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm (last tickets one hour before closing). 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée Guimet

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée Jacquemart-André

Where Pass Partner The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner

This museum housed in an elegant 19th century mansion showcases some 300 works, objects and documents tracing the life and career of the 19th century French painter Jean-Jacques Henner. Wed-Mon 11am to 6pm. 43 avenue de Villiers (17th), 01.47.63.42.73. M° Malesherbes

Monnaie de Paris

This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

Palais de Tokyo

Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm (last tickets at 5:30pm), Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Musée Picasso

passes & practical information

Musée Marmottan Monet

Where Pass Partner A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin

Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac | Museums & Fondations

Le Kiosque Théâtre

Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Where Paris Pass

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The Guide

dining

Turn to page 70 for servings from L’Assiette

Photo © Stephanie Riss

Italian Fare | Contemporary Cuisine | French Dining | Brasseries | Burgers

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Mama Mamo The trend continues in Paris of welcoming one Italian restaurant after the other and in June the French capital welcomed the latest establishment to join the ranks and it most certainly deserves a spot in Little Italia in Paris. After a successful opening in New York, which saw all the biggest stars flock to it for the best Italian food, Mamo has opened in the chic 16th arrondissement of Paris and is proving to be equally popular with both visitors and locals. Seating 50 guests, the restaurant is chic and welcoming with a bubbly manager whose smile is contagious. Bare wooden beams and stone walls contrast against the crystal chandeliers and red velvet banquet seating that guests are invited to settle into for a hearty meal. The menu here is classic Italian with traditional dishes including Risotto alla Milanese, Rigatoni con polpette with meatballs, and eggplant parmigiana. The chef here is quite generous with each dish served in large quantities, even entrées resemble portions usually seen for mains, so make sure when you come here you are famished or willing to share. - S.I. Mamo 2 rue La Pérouse (16th), 01 42 89 64 75

Italian Dining

Mama Mamo © JPSalle; Daroco © Benoit Linero

Photo © Stephanie Riss

dining

Restaurants

Occupying the high-ceilinged space at the entrance to the Galerie Vivienne that once housed the Jean Paul Gaultier boutique, this lively Italian table is a perfect choice for that night when you want a light meal or a break from French food. In addition to pizzas, try the one with mozzarella, crumbled sausage and marinated broccoli rabe, and pastas, Daroco do the best spaghetti carbonara in Paris, there’s a brief selection of starters, including swordfish carpaccio with raspberries and avocado and burrata with pine nuts and pesto oil. Open daily for lunch and dinner, making it an ideal weekend address, this lively restaurant with a charming décor of white terrazzo floors, exposed brick walls, wicker chairs and banquettes covered in royal blue velvet, also offers some of the best people-watching in Paris right now. – Alexander Lobrano Daroco 6 rue Vivienne (2nd), 01 42 21 93 71 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 69

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Restaurants

Contemporary Dining After a brilliant debut as chef at Gaya, Pierre Gagnaire’s wonderful Left Bank fish house, talented young chef Guillaume Delage went on to open his own restaurant, Jadis, in a far-flung part of the 15th arrondissement. He got great reviews, and the place became a roaring success. Alas, it petered out in the end, due, I think, to a service style at this now closed restaurant that was charmless and abrupt. So that even if Delage’s cooking was wonderful, and it is, too many people left the table here with little desire to return. Happily, Delage’s many fans will now find him cooking at Juvia, a lively new restaurant in the 8th arrondissement in the heart of Paris. Here Delage serves up a great menu of casual cosmopolitan contemporary comfort food, and this explains why the place is packed with young executives at noon and then with wellheeled locals again in the evening. Start with a “Detox” salad of quinoa, crab, romaine and Granny Smith apple (served both as a starter and a main dish) or another one called “Ole”, a composition of goat cheese, sliced tomatoes, piquillo pepper coulis and smoked tuna, or maybe the sea bass carpaccio with goose berries, lime and olive oil or oysters marinated with rice vinegar and mirin. Standouts among the main courses include steamed Scottish salmon with a courgette velouté and a grapefruit-and-Sarawak-pepper condiment and savoury lamb meatballs with Moroccan spices, aubergines, pepper coulis and brocciu cheese. Finish up with the excellent baba au rhum or Tonka bean flavoured panna cotta. – A.L. Juvia 105 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 09 66 82 41 08

One of the great pleasures of visiting Paris during the autumn is the way the city prompts the appetite to want heartier fare after a summertime of salads. The winey smell of ripe apples, a whiff of wood smoke here or there, the resinous scent of the chestnut and plane leaves in the city’s gutters bring on a desire for some good solid traditional French food, maybe a dish like cassoulet, that superb south-western French simmered dish of white beans, preserved duck, sausage and other ingredients. If this sounds good, the place to go for a really great cassoulet in Paris is chef David Rathgeber’s excellent traditional French bistro L’Assiette in a quieter corner of Montparnasse on the Left Bank. Rathgeber trained at various Alain Ducasse restaurants before he took over this long-running local favourite eight years ago and made it his own. “I love traditional French cooking,” says the chef, “you know, those great dishes that taste of flavours melded together to create a new one, dishes like cassoulet,” says Rathgeber, who also offers such classics as homemade rillettes de lapin et foie gras confit (potted rabbit with foie gras), escargots, and tête de veau (calf’s head). The genius of his kitchen, however, is that it is ultimately just as appealing to people who want to eat lighter more modern French food as it is to traditionalists. For example, his sea bream carpaccio with crunchy vegetables is excellent, as is his paella-style squid and roasted octopus and pork in a sauce of cooking juices deglazed with aged vinegar. Conclude with one of the best crème caramel in town, or for something less caloric, airy Fontainebleau cheese with raspberries and lime zest. But one way or another, be sure to book here, since this place is very popular, and come with a well-primed appetite, since portions are generous. Open on Saturdays and Sundays too. – A.L. L’Assiette 181 rue du Chateau (14th), 01 43 22 64 86

L’Assiette © Stephane Riss

French Fare

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Restaurants

Fare with a View Perched on the last floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées on the Avenue Montaigne in the heart of the posh “Golden Triangle” of the 8th arrondissement, Maison Blanche is a stylish restaurant offering one of the best and most intimate views of Paris. The gilded dome of Les Invalides just across the Seine takes pride of place, with the Tour Montparnasse, the tallest skyscraper within the city limits of Paris, in the background, and the Eiffel Tower framing the panorama on the right. Chef Fabrice Giraud’s fresh, light, inventive contemporary French cooking has made this restaurant a favourite of the fashion designers and executives who work for the many luxury brands located in this neighbourhood, Christian Dior among them. The menu follows the seasons, but starters like sea bass tarte with herbs and sea-urchin mousse and vitello tonnato show off Giraud’s Mediterranean roots and his sunny style. Pastry chef tempts with a selection of tantalising desserts as well, including rhubarb preserves with hibiscus jelly and a luscious cake of Araguani chocolate. Suave service and a good wine list make this a delightful choice for a memorable meal in a room with a view. – A.L. Maison Blanche 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 55 99

A Brasserie from the South Newly renovated and ready to transport you to the south, Le Sud is a traditional brasserie with a décor that brings the warmth of Provence to you while you are taking in the sights of the French capital. Under its sheltering trees growing in the heart of the patio enjoy a glass of rosé before savouring dishes such as pan-seared tuna seasoned with sesame and served with hummus and vegetables, and fresh beef carpaccio topped with fresh roquette and Parmesan cheese shavings, and for dessert Le Sud has added its own sweet touch to the classic crème brûlée by adding a dollop of Gianduja chocolate to its creamy centre. The villa-like brasserie is open daily with continuous service with happy hour between 5 and 8pm where guests can, after a day of meetings or shopping at the neighbouring boutiques in the Palais des Congrès, enjoy cocktails and sharing platters including the Planche du Sud with mozzarella croquettes, Stracciatella cheese and Parma ham. - S.I. Le Sud 91 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01 45 74 02 77 72 WHERE Pa r is I o cto be r 2016

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GOURMAND

AUTUMN

www.restopartner.com

Chef ’s SECRETS download on www.restopartner.com Discover the French Cuisine in our restaurants’ selection FLOTTES

13th district

1st district

LE COMPTOIR MARGUERY

2 rue Cambon - 75001 Paris 01.42.60.80.89 - www.flottes.fr

9, Boulevard de Port Royal - 75013 Paris 01.42.17.43.43 - www.comptoirmarguery.com

AU PERE FOUETTARD

AU PETIT MARGUERY - Rive Gauche

9 rue Pierre Lescot - 75001 Paris 01.42.33.74.17 - www.pere-fouettard.fr

9, Boulevard de Port Royal - 75013 Paris 01.43.31.58.59 www.petitmarguery-rivegauche.com

PHARAMOND

24, rue de la Grande Truanderie - 75001 Paris 01.40.28.45.18 - www.pharamond.fr

2nd district LE GALLOPIN

14th district MILLÉSIMES 62

13, place de Catalogne - 75014 Paris 01.43.35.34.35 - www.millesimes62.com

40, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires - 75002 Paris 01.42.36.45.38 - www.gallopin.fr

VIN & MARÉE Maine-Montparnasse 108, Avenue du Maine - 75014 Paris 01.43.20.29.50 - ww.vin-et-maree.com

6th district

16th district

LA BASTIDE ODÉON

LE MURAT

7 rue Corneille - 75006 Paris 01.43.26.03.65 - www.bastideodeon.com

1, Boulevard Murat - 75016 Paris 01.46.51.33.17 - www.restaurant-lemurat.com

BOUILLON RACINE

VIN & MARÉE Murat-Exelmans

3, rue Racine - 75006 Paris 01.44.32.15.60 - www.bouillon-racine.com

183, boulevard Murat angle 2, rue Daumier 75016 Paris 01.46.47.91.39 - www.vin-et-maree.com

7th district CHEZ FRANÇOISE

17th district AU PETIT MARGUERY - Rive Droite

Aérogare des Invalides - 75007 Paris 01.47.05.49.03 - www.chezfrancoise.com

PASCO

64, avenue des Ternes - 75017 Paris 01.45.74.16.66 www.petitmarguery-rivedroite.com

VIN & MARÉE Suffren-École Militaire 71, Avenue de Suffren - 75007 Paris 01.47.83.27.12 - www.vin-et-maree.com

CHEZ FRÉZET

74, Boulevard Tour-Maubourg - 75007 Paris 01.44.18.33.26 - www.restaurantpasco.com

18th district 191, rue Ordoner - 75018 Paris 01.46.06.64.20 - www.chezfrezet.com

8th district LA MARÉE

19th district

1, rue Daru - 75008 Paris 01.43.80.20.00 - www.lamaree.fr

LE LAUMIÈRE

276, Boulevard Voltaire - 75011 Paris 01.43.72.31.23 - www.vin-et-maree.com

Hauts-de-Seine RIVER CAFÉ

146, quai Stalingrad 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux 01.40.93.50.20 - www.rivercafe.fr

CAFÉ LA JATTE

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20 th

N ov em be r

Ile de la Jatte 60, bd Vital Bouhot - 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine 01.47.45.04.20 - www.cafejatte.com

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11th district VIN & MARÉE Voltaire-Nation

4, rue Petit - 75019 Paris 01.42.02.46.71 - www.laumiere.com

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dining

Restaurants

A Burger in Paris Before weaving your way up the hill at Montmartre to the Sacré Coeur to take in the remarkable view of the French capital from its cascading steps, stop at the recently opened second branch of B&M burgers for lunch. The casual dining eatery offers a simple menu with burgers that pack a tasty punch. The menu here makes “suggestions”, however, the best thing about this burger joint is that customers can create their own bespoke burgers. Fancy a beef patty with bacon, blue cheese and pepper sauce or a beef patty topped with cream cheese, chilli and caramelised onions? Whatever you like on your bun will be happily created by the staff and can be enjoyed with classic French fries, cheese fries or the spicy Mexican option with avocado and a mix of spices piled on yummy fries. Vegetarians are welcome as well, although there is not much flexibility with the veggie option and with falafel balls served between the buns instead of being cooked as a patty it isn’t an easy burger to bite into but is delicious nonetheless. - S.I. 98 rue des Martyrs (18th), 01 42 62 43 94

It is quite hard to eat clean when visiting a destination famous for its pastries but with pastry shops popping up slowly around the city offering treats with less sugar or no sugar at all you can now, quite literally, have your cake and eat it too while in Paris. Delicesweet specialises in products that are reduced in sugar, making them suitable for both diabetics and anyone trying to watch what they’re eating, with bonbons, chocolate and artisanal ice-cream on the menu. The standout treat here though is the chocolate molten cake, sugar free, gluten free and made with no butter, it can almost be eaten guilt-free! - S.I. 54 ave de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01 81 29 76 28

Delicesweet © ThomyKEAT

Guilt-Free and Delicious

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dining

Restaurant Advertorial

bustROnOme French cuisine / Place Charles de Gaulle Étoile, th) on the corner with Avenue Kleber (16th Combine sightseeing and bistro dining aboard Bustronome, the city’s restaurant on wheels. With a glass roof, the bus-cum-restaurant allows diners to take in every inch of the splendour the city has to offer. Enjoy an entrée of seasonal vegetables flavoured with olive oil, lime and honey as you ride along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, sample a filet of guinea fowl served with puréed corn, romanesco cabbage and roasted pear and take in the Musée d’Orsay before savouring vanilla panna cotta, sorbet and blackcurrant meringue, Genoa cake and sweet crystallized violet as you pass by the Eiffel Tower. Bustronome operates for lunch and dinner and can also be privatised. Tel: +33 (0)9 54 44 45 55 / www.bustronome.com

haRD ROCK CafÉ th American, 9th

The Hard Rock Café Paris offers more than just great food and service. Discover authentic memorabilia from rock ‘n’ roll legends covering the walls, 21 screens showing videos, and an unbelievable sound system. In this restaurant and famous cocktail bar all is done to give the international clientele an American experience. Mon-Sun L&D. th 14 blvd Montmartre, Paris 9th Metro: Richelieu-Drouot Tel: +33 (0)1 53 24 60 00 www.hardrock.com

Penati al Baretto, Authentic Italian Ideally located located just just aa few few steps steps from from the the Avenue Avenue des des ChampsChampsIdeally Elysées Elysées is is the the recently recently opened opened Michelin Michelin starred starred restaurant restaurant Penati Al Al Baretto Baretto where where authentic authentic Italian Italian cuisine cuisine is is served served in in chic chic Penati contemporary surroundings. surroundings. The The refined refined décor décor with with aa nod nod to to contemporary la Dolce Dolce Vita Vita creates creates an an elegant elegant room room with with authentic authentic black black and and la white white photographs photographs adorning adorning the the walls walls featuring featuring well-known well-known Italian personalities personalities including including actors actors and and fashion fashion designers designers that that Italian diners can can admire admire from from their their comfortably comfortably spaced spaced out out tables tables diners as they they enjoy enjoy the the fine fine fare. fare. Italian-born Italian-born chef chef Alberico Alberico Penati Penati as proposes proposes aa seasonal seasonal menu menu that that boasts boasts the the best best of of Italian Italian cuisine cuisine combining the the finest finest culinary culinary traditions traditions of of his his native native country country with with combining contemporary creativity. creativity. contemporary The The pasta pasta is is homemade homemade daily daily with with flours flours and and ingredients ingredients imported from Italy and cooked to al dente imported from Italy and cooked to al dente perfection perfection with with the the standout being being the the signature signature dish dish “Spaghetti “Spaghetti de de Verrigni Verrigni with with standout fresh sardines sardines Sicilian Sicilian style” style” and and the the Tagliolini Tagliolini with with Alba Alba white white fresh truffle. truffle. The The wine wine list list pays pays homage homage to to the the greatest greatest wine wine producing producing regions regions of of Italy Italy boasting boasting an an extensive extensive selection selection of of wines wines and and grand crus. crus. For For dessert dessert aa traditional traditional Tiramisu Tiramisu is is elegantly elegantly served served in in grand glass and and if if you you are are aa chocolate chocolate connoisseur connoisseur the the “Gianduiotto”, “Gianduiotto”, aa glass aa gianduja gianduja chocolate chocolate mousse mousse with with Piedmont Piedmont hazelnuts hazelnuts and and enrobed in a thin layer of chocolate, is not to be enrobed in a thin layer of chocolate, is not to be missed. missed. 9-11 rue rue Balzac Balzac (8th), (8th), 01 01 42 42 99 99 80 80 00 00 9-11 www.penatialbaretto.eu www.penatialbaretto.eu 76 WHERE Pa r i s I o c to b e r 2016

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THE CHOCOLATIER OF KINGS AND THE KING OF CHOCOLATIERS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy raspberry or coffee-ﬂavoured ganache. Aﬁcionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange rind Lily shaped gift box

decorated with gold leaves

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 7.30pm

30 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris = Tel: 01 45 48 54 67 = M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 33 rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris = M° Bourse 333 N Bedford Road, Suite 150, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549 = Tel: 914 244 89 98

www.debauve-et-gallais.com = www.debauveandgallais.com

181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013 11:46 Page1

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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DINING DINING

Restaurant Restaurant Advertorial Advertorial

WEPLER WEPLER

LE LOUCHÉBEM LE LOUCHÉBEM

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine th

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st

431 rue Berger, Paris 1 st 431 rue Berger, 4Metro: ChâteletParis / Les1 Halles 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 42 33 12 Halles 99 4Tel: +33 (0)1 means 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem butcher 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr 4www.le-louchebem.fr

414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 414 PlacePlace de Clichy, Paris 18th 4Metro: de Clichy 4Metro: de 22 Clichy 4Tel: +33Place (0)1 45 53 24 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Daily 12:30menu am 30€ 4Lunchuntil & Dinner 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4English spoken 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com 4www.wepler.com

One of the finest French onion soups in the One of the finest French the capital, savour crayfi sh inonion cherrysoups sauce,inlobsters capital, savouracrayfi sh infrom cherry sauce, lobsters from Brittany, marmite Marseille served from Brittany, a marmite Marseille served as a bouillabaisse and thefrom Wepler classics from as a bouillabaisse and the Wepler classics from potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts. potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts.

LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s This quintessential Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers les a full gamut of meat dishes. restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique The potcan roast is superb the unique all you eatsalad platter of beef,and roast ham and all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.and leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.

TRUFFES FOLIES TRUFFES FOLIES

Fine cuisine with truffles Fine cuisine with truffles th

Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st

437 rue Malar, Paris 7 / Tel: +33 (0)1 44 18 05 41 437 rue Malar, 7th / Tel:Pont +33 de (0)1l’Alma 44 18 05 41 4Metro: LatourParis Maubourg/ 4Metro: Maubourg/ Pont de l’Alma 4Lunch: Latour 12pm to 3pm (except Sunday) 4Lunch: 12pm to 3pm (except Sunday) 4Dinner: 6:30pm to 9:30pm (except Saturday/Sunday) 4Dinner: 6:30pm to 9:30pm (except Saturday/Sunday) 4www.truff esfolies.fr 4www.truffesfolies.fr

47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1 st 47 rue des Prouvaires, 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Paris Halles1 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 45 08 04 Halles 10 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 0425.90 10 € 4Unlimited carpaccio: 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr

Succulent meats from the butcher are Succulent meatshere. fromInventive, the butcher are to be savoured refined to be savoured here. crispy Inventive, refined appetizers including thyme-fl avoured appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. Camembert detour. The calf’s liverare is aworth sheerthe delight and the The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm. ambiance warm and full of charm.

Located near the Invalides, the restaurant Truffes Located near theyou Invalides, the restaurant Folies welcomes in an elegant, warm Truff and es Folies welcomes you in an elegant, warm intimate setting. You will savour a selectionand of intimate setting. You(risotto, will savour a selection of truffle-based dishes tagliatelle, foie gras, truffl e-based dishes (risotto, tagliatelle, foie gras, salads) and regional products. We have carefully salads) and We haveproducts, carefully selected forregional you the products. finest of gourmet selected for you the fi nest of gourmet products, a large assortment of truffles (black and white) aand large assortment truffles (black and white) exceptional foieofgras. and exceptional foie gras.

INDIAN INDIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMY

33 MINUTES PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN MINUTES FROM FROM PARIS. PARIS. THE THE ONLY ONLY INDIAN INDIAN RESTAURANT RESTAURANT WITH WITH 22 GAULT GAULT && MILLAU MILLAU TOQUES. TOQUES. FINE FINE QUALITY QUALITY && FRESH FRESH PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN TANDOORI TANDOORI PM PM PM PM 2.30 / 7 11.30 DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 PM PM PM PM DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 - 2.30 / 7 - 11.30 3-5 3-5 quai quai Aulagnier, Aulagnier, 92600 92600 Asnières-sur-Seine Asnières-sur-Seine // M° M° Gabriel Gabriel Péri Péri (line (line 13) 13) Tel: Tel: +33 +33 (0)1.40.86.10.11 (0)1.40.86.10.11 // +33 +33 (0)6.99.05.40.40 (0)6.99.05.40.40 www.kaveri.fr www.kaveri.fr // restaurant@kaveri.fr restaurant@kaveri.fr 78 WHERE Pa r i s I O C TO B E R 2016

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Where Paris Promotion

BoUiLLoN Des CoLoNies

BoUiLLoN raCiNe

A Restaurant of the World / Paris 6th

A Parisian restaurant since 1906 / Paris 6th

his restaurant offers a change of pace with its subdued lighting, an atmosphere somewhere between Africa and Asia, propitious for a meal in tête à tête but also among friends. While the setting carries one away what invites the patron in is truly the innovative cuisine, which proposes the best of Middle Eastern, African or Caribbean cooking to the classics of French cuisine.

Lunch menu priced at 15.95€ and à la carte menu at 25.90€ at lunch and dinner. Sunday brunch.

pened in 1906, the Bouillon Racine is one of the rare bouillons or precursor of the brasserie still present in Paris today and going strong. Its interior decor is listed as a historic monument and is a two-floor delight that takes you back a century in time. Alexandre Belthoise invites you to savour his traditional bouillon with chicken and vegetables, French onion soup, beef stew, stuffed and spit roasted suckling pig and risotto with Saint Jacques and prawns. For dessert try the waffle with crème brûlée. Reasonably priced lunch menu at 16.95€, set menus at 33€ and 43€.

3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 32 15 64

3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 32 15 60

Fine dishes found on the menu include shrimp risotto, Tahitian-style tuna tartar, beef satay or the African-Middle Eastern platter.

PHaraMoND

La ViLLa Corse

Cuisine of Normandy since 1832 / Paris 1

his institution in the first arrondissement is breath taking. The decor, listed as a historic monument, is an astonishing blend of woodwork, mirrors and painted mirrors. Don’t miss the private dining rooms nestled on the second floor where Clemenceau and Hemingway once dined. But the Pharamond is also and above all cuisine revolving around the products and specialties of Normandy. Sébastien Richard is delighted to share his cuisine with you from the nostalgic dishes like tripe à la mode de Caen or homemade andouillette along with savoury new dishes like sea bass carpaccio, rack of lamb in a crust of herbs, roasted and potted Norman pig without forgetting the teurgoule, traditional rice pudding from Normandy. A generous and savoury cuisine to be discovered through two menus, a lunch menu priced at 16.90€ (appetiser and main course or main course and dessert) or the à la carte menu starting at 35€.

24 rue de la Grande Truanderie, Paris 1st - Valet parking in the evening Metro Etienne Marcel – Tel: +33 (0)1 40 28 45 18

Corsican Restaurant / Paris 15th

nter into the Villa Corse for a gourmet journey between the sea and the mountains for enchanting gastronomy and an oenological discovery. The open kitchen raises the curtain on the on going culinary operations and it is in full view of the guests that chef Cyril Gauzit and his team prepare the savours of the Ile of Beauty from broccoli cannelloni to a suckling pig, cromesquis of figatellu (fried fresh sausage), mashed potatoes with truffles and blood sausage to wind it all up with a brocciu en fiadone païsanu (flan). In the dining room the team will explain the various Corsican wines on the menu to accompany your meal. Lunch menu: 25€. A la carte menu 45€. For seating, you can choose between leather club chairs in the library and bar or traditional tables in the vinothèque.

164 boulevard de Grenelle, Paris 15th – Valet parking Tel: +33 (0)1 53 86 70 81 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 79

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Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd)

signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)

Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)

A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde

Aux Lyonnais - Bistro

(€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s

An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Goust - Gourmet (€€€)

Located on the 1 floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra st

Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)

Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries

La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary

(€€€)

Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)

Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)

Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)

This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Lavinia - Classic French (€€)

Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Bistro Volnay | Bistro (2nd)

Canard & Champagne | Classic French (2nd)

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Address Book

accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)

Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and

other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour D’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€) Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A

stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Taokan - Chinese (€€€)

Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)

Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

La Tour D’Argent | Classic French (5th)

La Méditerranée | Seafood (6th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 81

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Address Book L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)

Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie

(€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V

Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international

cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Penati Al Baretto - Italian (€€)

In the exclusive 8th arrondissement, a minute away from the Arc de Triomphe, is where you can enjoy a real treat of fine Italian cuisine in Paris. Into the elegant surroundings of this one Michelin starred restaurant - Chef Alberico Penati proposes a seasonal Menu reflective of the regions of his native Italy along with an extended wine list selection to take you on a refined gastronomic tour of that country. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat D only. 9 rue Balzac (8th), 01.42.99.80.00.M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

La Scène | Gourmet (8th)

Maison Blanche | Contemporary (8th)

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dining

Address Book décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Wepler - Brasserie (€)

Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)

Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille

East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with

creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56 floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse th

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)

Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th)

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris

Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

Le Kavéri – Indian (€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

Jamin - Classic French (€€)

The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers

This restaurant, recommended by Gault&Millau, serves refined dishes from the repertoire of Indian gastronomy. Starters include chicken tikka and vegetable samosas while butter chicken, tandoori masala quail or shrimp with eggplant are among the many main courses. Daily, L&D. 3-5 quai Aulagnier, Asnières-sur-Seine, 01.40.86.10.11. M° Gabriel Péri

Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Desserts include fun selections like floating island and baba au rum. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

L’Abeille | Gourmet (16th)

Le Kavéri | Indian (Asnières-sur-Seine) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 83

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The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

ENTERTAINMENT

Relax with a cocktail after work at L’Ambre (page88)

L’Ambre Photo © Anna Gorvits; Crazy Horse Photo © Ellen von Unwerth

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ENTERTAINMENT

Shows

Chantal Goes Crazy She has brought sexy to the bedroom with her slinky designs and now lingerie designer Chantal Thomass is bringing her some kind of sexy to the Crazy Horse cabaret. From the 5th of October, Thomass will be playing guest Art Director for three months, not only creating sexy outfits for the Crazy dancers, who all uncannily sport the designer’s signature bob haircut and red pout, but she is also collaborating with the cabaret team to bring guests four new acts that will be performed alongside the Crazy Horse’s famous numbers. Dressing the dancers only to undress them, Thomass’s ironic contribution will also see the cabaret dressed in her signature style with the space transformed into an intimate boudoir. The Dessous Dessus (upside down) show will be playing through to the 31st of December and promises to be a standout event. Crazy Horse 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32

Laugh Out Loud

L’Ambre Photo © Anna Gorvits; Crazy Horse Photo © Ellen von Unwerth

If you are in the mood to laugh while visiting the French capital then a little bit of stand-up comedy is the perfect ticket for you. Laughing Matters in Paris frequently organises shows around the city and this month will welcome comedian Stephen K Amos to La Chapelle des Lombards on the 21st of October. Promising to have you in fits of laughter in your seat, the English entertainer delivers laugh-worthy material that is both original, honest and most of all, full of humour. You can book your tickets at www.anythingmatters.com or directly at the venue. La Chapelle des Lombards 19 rue de Lappe (11th), 01 43 57 24 24

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entertainment Shows

Celebrating Music For the past 40 years the Festival d’Ile de France has entertained audiences in the Greater Paris Region with a variety of concerts held during the months of September and October. Concert goers are invited to different concert halls and at times spaces that are normally closed off to the public including churches and old factories to enjoy rock, soul and classical music. Appreciators of world music will be spoilt for choice this year with artists from all corners of the earth scheduled to be performing including Palestinian singer Tamer Abu Ghazaleh who grew up in Cairo and Norwegian jazz musician Bugge Wesseltoft. Make sure you visit www.festival-idf.fr for all concert times and venues, and also to reserve.

Equestrian shows are some of the draws to the Great Stables of the Domain of Chantilly, and through to the 23rd of October you can take in the latest show to combine the artistry of horse riding and dance. Metamorphoses sees seven horse riders, one dancer and fifteen horses bring to life the mythical figures of Metamorphoses, the narrative poem written by Roman poet Ovid. With original music performed live by three musicians, watch as the one-hour show introduces you to the Nymphs, the Muses and Diana the huntress. 7 rue du Connétable, 60500 Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80

Mythical Legends © RB Presse

Mythical Legends

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Fondation Cartier Pour l’Art Contemporain’s Nomadic Nights invites artists to transform their exhibition spaces into an ephemeral event location with classical concerts in the Fondation’s garden and dance shows only some of the unique events organised. This month on Monday the 3rd, Around Robert Ashley is the latest Nomadic Nights event to be held, celebrating the late American composer. The one-night exhibition sees rare documents from the composer’s personal archives and music scores being exhibited, and an exceptional performance by Dutch pianist Reinier van Houdt who will perform Manoeuvres for Small Hands, one of Ashley’s first major works. Reserve your tickets at www.fondation.cartier.com

ADVERTORIAL

As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching

nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian

in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!

SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH

FRIDAY & SATURDAY @ 7PM / SUNDAY @ 6PM / MONDAY @ 8PM Cartier © Jack Mitchell

Mythical Legends © RB Presse

Composed Celebrations

Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards

Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old

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entertainment Bars

Alchemy in Cocktails The Shangri-La Hotel bar has been given a new moniker and its cocktail menu has been given a facelift. Le Bar Botaniste sees its barmen become botanical alchemists, creating fancy drinks using original ingredients to deconstruct old classics and present them in a very original way with the help of the hotel’s resident pastry chef who has worked closely with the cocktail team to add a sweet touch to every drink. The new drinks menu features not just one signature drink but 15, including the Zacao, which is made with Zacapa rum, vermouth, cacao syrup and Sichuan pepper. Poured in a hallowed out cacao bean, Zacao is served on crushed ice with a bite-size chocolate tart, complementing the drink. The bar is a must for cocktail enthusiasts who are looking for a cosy address as well as original drinks, and with the herbs and spices presented in vintage apothecary bottles it makes the experience of cocktail hour even more exciting with the barmen resembling genius scientists, with their concoctions delicious and creative, with extra points given for the impressive presentation of every cocktail. Le Bar Botaniste 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 93

When a 1930’s Manhattan bar vibe crosses a Parisian hotel bar you get L’Ambre, a cosy bar nestled in the chic 17th arrondissement of the French capital. Previously a champagne bar, L’Ambre was opened by two ex-barmen of the iconic Crillon Hotel and is where Parisians head to for original cocktails and the soft music of the corner piano. Open from Monday to Saturday until 2am the bar welcomes anyone who is looking to wind down after a day in meetings or one or two drinks before or after dinner. While the bar offers signature cocktails, it prides itself on creating bespoke drinks for its customers, mixing drinks based on each client’s personal tastes. L’Ambre 29 rue Brunel (17th), 01 45 74 11 04

Le Bar Botaniste Photo © Romeo Balancourt; L’Ambre Photo © Anna Gorvits

Cocktail Hour

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David Lynch’s body of work is notorious for being eclectic and dark and his Parisian club, Silencio, is no exception. The club, inspired in décor by the club of the same name that was featured in Lynch’s Mulholland Drive, is the club du jour, offering cool cocktails and a very fashionable crowd. Although the club is reserved for members only, it is open to the public from midnight to 6am Tuesdays to Sundays. Silencio 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 01 40 13 12 33

A Private Affair © Alexandre Guirkinger

Le Bar Botaniste Photo © Romeo Balancourt; L’Ambre Photo © Anna Gorvits

A Private Affair

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Cabarets

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

LIDO

MOULIN ROUGE

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.

This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.

www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

www.moulinrouge.fr. 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche

Moulin Rouge © Moulin Rouge

Moulin Rouge

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE !

DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 190 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H À PARTIR DE 77 €

MONTMARTRE

82, BLD DE CLICHY - 75018 PARIS TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM €190 SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM €77

WWW.MOULIN-ROUGE.COM FACEBOOK.COM/LEMOULINROUGEOFFICIEL

08/09/2016 12:55

Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

Experimental Cocktail Bar | Bars & Wine Bars

Hotel Costes Bar

Moonshiner

Le Bar Brûlé

Ô Chateau

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

Wine by One

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le Lucien Bar

casino

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

Le Rubis

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Café Universel

Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

Caveau de la Huchette

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this

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bars & wine bars

Address Book

location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Duc des Lombards

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

Le Duplex

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

La Fidelité

This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Le Montana

Gentlemen’s clubs

Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s only aphrodisiac restaurant and cabaret is a temple to glamour. Sensual savours are featured on the Aphrodisiac Menu like satay, sesame, hot peppers, cinnamon and ginger accompanied by a fine selection of wines and champagne. The show features 20 to 30 dancers in a jewel-box ambiance. 8:30pm-4am. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Club 79

This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features

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Le Bristol Bar ©Romeo Balancourt

entertainment

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Showcase

Le Social Club

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Matignon

This exclusive club has a sexy 70s vibe complete with animal print detailing and serves up fabulous cocktails and champagne in a musicfilled ambiance to an elite crowd. The club hosts themed nights and is equipped with VIP areas. 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.89.64.72. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Palais Maillot

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Queen Club

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is

New Morning | Jazz Clubs

filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Raspoutine

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

Caveau de la Huchette

| Jazz Clubs

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navigate

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.80€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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Where Pass Paris The Where Pass is Paris’s newest, all-encompassing travellers’ ticket allowing visitors to experience the city’s top attractions with attractive discounts and integrated transport. Visiting Paris has never been more convenient. Visit www.wherepassparis.com for more information.

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My Paris

HElEne Dedenon

Head Concierge at InterContinental Paris - Avenue Marceau Masion de Nicolas Flamel

Les Halles The M64 Restaurant

The Tuileries Garden

Passage Vivienne

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? I love typical French bistro cuisine and I love

Philippe and Jean Pierre and La Haute Cloche, both really good traditional bistros. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? I would say Maison de Nicolas Flamel. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? From the top of the Notre Dame Cathedral towers where from the Archevêché Bridge you can enjoy the view of this gothic masterpiece. Paris being the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? I would say Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and its nearby streets (Royale, Cambon...). But I personally would rather recommend the Marais (Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Francs-Bourgeois). This charming area is full of boutiques of young fashion designers, and most of these boutiques are opened on Sundays. What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? Les Halles and its canopy where there are beauty, home decor and ready-to-wear shops and you can eat at Café Za or at Alain Ducasse’s restaurant, Champeaux.

Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? I suggest you start in front of the Louvre Pyramid. Walk through the small arc of the Tuileries Garden and take in the Garden, the Concorde, Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe, and the Eiffel Tower on your left. Walk to the Palais Royal and walk under the arcades surrounding the garden and stop on Rue Montpensier to admire the theatre of the Palais Royal. Then walk to the Vivienne covered passage rediscovering a part 19th century Paris. And as France is also famous for wine and cheese, take a break at Le Grand Filles et Fils, to enjoy a good glass of wine, bread and cheese.

My perfect day 9am Breakfast at Café JacquemartAndré and visit the museum 12pm Go up the Arc de Triomphe 1pm Lunch at Coretta 4pm Walking tour of Montmartre 8pm Dinner at M64, the restaurant of the InterContinental Marceau 10:45pm Show at the Glamorous “Crazy Horse” cabaret

where

Your Guide to the World

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Start by having a hot chocolate and a croissant at the Jean-Paul Hévin Saint-Honoré store. Take a walk in the Tuileries Garden, through Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix to get to the Opera Garner and book a guided tour to admire this 19th-century architectural masterpiece. Then walk to Place Marché SaintHonoré and lunch at L’Absinthe. Head to the Hotel de Ville before going on a walking tour to Saint-Germain, passing the Notre Dame Church, stopping by the Arènes de Lutèce and then the Luxembourg Garden. Then walk to the Saint-Germain covered market under the beautiful arcades. If you feel like a break stop by the Mariage Frères tea house where there are hundreds of teas and wonderful pastries. Then go to the Sacré Coeur basilica where you have the best view of the city and walk around Montmartre and Place du Tertre. For your evening in the City of Light face the Eiffel Tower by having dinner at Les Ombres, and finish your evening on the Champs-Elysées at the Lido Cabaret.

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Where Paris_210x297mm_October(Maluku).pdf

8/5/16

3:08 PM

Banda Sea, Maluku • Indonesia

CMY

Answer the call of beauty In a world with many heart-pumping captivations, there is a sense of obligation to overtake all the many earth's challenges. Step into the edge of a magnificent realm where you can undertake Mother Nature's offerings in one swoop. Choose your experience: everlasting mountains, unforgiving streams of gorgeous oceans, fantastic mystical beasts, and fiery lakes. Face the life's many delicacies, because when you truly experience it, only then you can truly experience life. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel indonesia.travel

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