Where Paris magazine, January 2018 by Where Paris

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PARIS | CONTENTS

Hot Dates

This month’s calendar of must-see events

The guide 20 SHOPPING

Exhilarating Exhibitions Discover the must-see shows happening around Paris this month

The latest trends and the hottest fashions 44 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions

A Luxurious Skiing Getaway

58 DINING

Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants

Hit the slopes at Courchevel, the world’s luxurious skiing resort

70 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s best events and shows 78 SERVICES

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings J A NU A R Y 2 0 18 Issue N o 288

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

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ON THE COVER

Turn to page 26 for our Hitting the Slopes in Style photo shoot Photo © Alex Fadel

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Enjoy a drink at the city’s new speakeasy, No Entry (Page 72)

4 W H E R E PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2018

PARIS. MY WAY by where

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 EDITOR-in-chief Sandra Iskander*

To bring in the New Year in style we dedicate the first issue of 2018 to our very fashionable jet-setting readers who seek the finer things in life and who have an affinity for luxury and style. In our first issue of the New Year we take you from Paris to the world’s most glamorous ski resort, Courchevel, making sure you know what to do and where to go with our A Luxurious Skiing Getaway. Meanwhile, our Hitting the Slopes in Style photo shoot sees that you are looking your best on the slopes

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*, Kyra Brenzinger ART DIRECTOR - PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* Shopping Maps Illustrator Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advertising - account manager Schaz Rosman* Publicité secteur Marché de l’Art HELIUM Publicité Tel: 01 48 01 86 86 contact@heliumpublicite.fr DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER Suzanne Tang*

and of course for all the après ski fun. After giving you an adrenalin rush with skiing down the French Alps we bring you back to the French capital for some very fashionable establishments to wine and dine at during Paris Fashion Week while our Exhilarating Exhibitions feature covers the shows that are not to be missed including the Irving Penn

Editorial & CommunicationS Assistant Pauline Valter* OFFICE MANAGER Anne-Marie Dancy* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

retrospective at the Grand Palais.

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler

To celebrate the beginning of a New Year make sure you turn to our Entertainment section where you will find our favourite bars for celebratory cocktails. From everyone here at Where we wish you a very Happy New Year and we hope you enjoy this issue.

MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman William S. Morris III President and CEO William S. Morris IV

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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal Janvier 2018. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed by Rotolito Lombarda S.p.a

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6 W H E R E Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

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ColleCtion of 17 private residenCes open to overseas buyers faCilities by six senses Hotels resorts World renoWned six senses spa effortless ski-in ski-out

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January

Marilyn all month She captured the world with her beauty and Galerie de l’Instant is bringing together photos of Marilyn Monroe taken by Bert Stern, Lawrence Schiller and Sam Shaw, showing the different facets of this iconic woman. Glamorous, playful and natural, each photographer captured a different side of the woman who to this day still fascinates the world. 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

HOT DATES Discover the best of January in Paris

8 W H E R E Pa r is I J A N UAR Y 2018

Marilyn Monroe, La Dernière Séance, Robe Christian Dior, Bel Air Hotel, Beverly Hills, Juillet 1962, Bert Stern © Bert Stern, courtesy Galerie de l’Instant, Paris . Christian Dior, robe Opéra bouffe, Haute couture automne-hiver 1956, ligne Aimant. Robe du soir en faille de soie d’Abraham. Paris, Dior Héritage © Photo Les Arts Décoratifs / Nicholas Alan Cope . iStock 2017 matsiash

PARIS THIS MONTH

Fashion Exhibition JAN 1-7 Don’t miss your last chance to take in the Christian Dior, Couturier du Rêve exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The retrospective celebrates the house of Christian Dior’s 70 years of design by bringing together over 300 dresses inviting you on a fashionable voyage with dresses from the 40s through to dresses that have recently been worn on the red carpet by the world’s most glamorous stars. The show is an ode to the luxury fashion house that was established by Monsieur Dior and which later, over the years, saw Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, John Galliano and now Maria Grazia Chiuri at the helm as creative directors. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), Paris, 01 44 55 57 50

Happy New Year JAN 1 Start the New Year on a Parisian note, put on your coat and gloves and walk through the charming cobblestone streets of Montmartre weaving your way through the city on the hill.

Paris Fashion Week JAN 17 First day of Men’s Fashion Week begins today with designers showcasing their Autumn/Winter 2018/2019 collections followed by the Haute Couture Fashion Week, which begins on the 22nd and ends on the 25th with designers showcasing their couture Spring/Summer 2018 collections. It’s the calendar event of the month for the fashion world with fashion shows and events taking place around the heart of the city with fashionistas strutting around the fashion capital as if it were their own public runway turning the city into one giant, outdoor fashion show.

Pick the Royal JAN 7

JAN 10

Have a slice of the galette des rois, a traditional cake celebrating the Epiphany, and if you are the lucky finder of the hidden trinket you will become the king or queen of the day. La Maison du Chocolat lives up to its chocolate name and has filled the golden pastry with a rich chocolate and almond cream filling, guaranteed to make everyone feel like royalty.

Last month you spent most of your time shopping for everyone in the lead up to Christmas, this month shop for yourself and take advantage of the annual winter sales that begin today all around the city.

The galette is available at all La Maison du Chocolat boutiques including at 8 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01 47 42 86 52

On Sale

w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 9

PARIS THIS MONTH

Trade Shows & Art Fairs JANUARY 12-15 SALON DE LA PLONGéE SOUSMARINE Voyage beneath the sea in this trade show devoted to deep sea diving. Discover the latest in equipment, destinations, diving news and more. The show is open from 10am to 7pm, until 10pm on the 12th and until

A Chalet Escape All Month The Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme’s annual winter wonderland has once again been installed and this time around it is in collaboration with the Swiss house IWC Schaffhausen. Enter the charming chalet for a traditional winter feast of raclette and mulled wine. It is recommended to reserve in advance. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 58 71 10 60

3pm on the 15th. www.salondelaplongee.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

JANUARY 18-21 THERMALIES This show brings you all that is water and wellbeing related. Some 300 exhibitors specialised in cures, treatments, thalassotherapy, spas and balneotherapy are on-hand to welcome you into a world of health and well-being.

At the Movies JAN 1-4 Treat the kids to a movie and a wonderful water show at Europe’s largest theatre, the Grand Rex. Watch as the theatre’s stage is transformed into a magical musical fountain with the water dancing to the sounds of the year’s most popular musical hits before settling in to watch Coco, the latest offering from Disney.Pixar. Screening in French. Reservations can be made online or by calling 08 92 68 36 22. 1 blvd Poissonnière (2nd)

Workshops on thermal cures, collective yoga classes and practical relaxation workshops are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 21st. www.thermalies.com Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)

JANUARY 19-23 MAISON & OBJET This trade show for professionals is the place to explore the latest in the art of living and the world of home fashion, bringing together décor, design, objects, tableware, furnishings, expertise and unique know-how. The show is open from 9:30am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 23rd. www.maison-objet.com

JANUARY 20-22 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE This glamorous event devoted to a world of intimates is for professionals only who can preview new lingerie, corsetry, hosiery, loungewear, swimwear and men’s underwear. Trends, themed conferences, fashion shows and six worlds of lingerie:

Wine and Dine JAN 2

the essentials, cocooning, designer labels, beautiful legs, super heroes and creative labels, are all on the agenda. The show is open from 9am to 7pm and until 6pm on the 22nd.

Every Tuesday Restaurant Astier offers diners 20% off a selection of two wines giving you 20 reasons to drink more French wine while enjoying traditional French cuisine. 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (11th), 01 43 57 16 35 10 W H E R E Pa r is I j a n ua r y 2018

www.lingerie-paris.com Paris Expo, 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th)

Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme photo David-Emmanuel Cohen; Restaurant Astier - Credit Roberta Valerio

Parc des Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte

Exhilarating Exhibitions By Patricia Valicenti

Irving Penn’s famous portrait of the fashion model Mary Jane Russell as the Girl with Tobacco on Tongue (this page). Opposite Page (left to right): An original painting by Greg Leon Guillemin at the digital and art show at the Fondation Groupe EDF and Louis Pasteur on the Mer de Glace (The Sea of Ice) in the Alps testing the culture mediums in altitude in this watercolour by Ernest Clair-Guyot (right)

12 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

Irving Penn, Girl with Tobacco on Tongue (Mary Jane Russell), New York, 1951, épreuve gélatino-argentique, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,, Promised Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation, Greg Leon Guillemin - peintures originales Kryptonite 3.0 - 2017 - serie Wake Up - 120 x 160 cm Peinture acrylique et aérosol sur toile canvas Pièce unique - Courtesy Studio Greg Leon Guillemin ; © Condé Nast; Louis Pasteur on the Mer de Glace (The Sea of Ice) in the Alps testing the culture mediums in altitude in this watercolour by Ernest Clair-Guyot © Institut Pasteur

Exhibitions

full palette of exhibitions is on in the capital’s marvellous museums with a show devoted to the great scientist Louis Pasteur, a retrospective paying tribute to the sculptor César, an exhibit showing the influence of Antiquity on the works of Antoine Bourdelle, the role that digital is playing in art, the iconic photographs of Irving Penn, a show of works from one of the great museums, the MoMA, and two shows featuring collections of masterpieces by the masters including one which reconstitutes, for the period of the exhibition, Claude Monet’s extraordinary private collection.

Meanwhile, the Grand Palais is hosting a major retrospective devoted to Irving Penn, regarded as one of the greatest photographers of the 20th century. The show is running through to January 29th and features over 240 photographic prints, all produced by the artist himself, and a selection of graphic works, with the show taking a look at 70 years of the American artist’s career. The full range of subjects tackled by the photographer are all represented ranging from fashion to the still life, portraits, nudes, street scenes and his iconic Small Trade series photographed at the beginning of the 1950s in Paris, London and New York.

The Musée Jacquemart-André is hosting a stunning and surprising exhibition showcasing the Ordrupgaard Collection assembled by the Danish couple Wilhelm and Henny Hansen. The collection, regarded as unique in Europe, brings together major works of the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist movements of the second half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Entitled The Secret Garden of the Hansens, the show is running through to January 22nd and brings together over 40 works including portraits by Renoir alongside landscapes by Monet, Pissarro, Morisot and Sisley. A host of emblematic artists are featured as well including Cézanne, Matisse, Corot, Degas and Gauguin.

The Musée Bourdelle is focusing in on the influence of Antiquity on the work of the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle. The exhibition entitled Bourdelle et l’Antique, Une Passion Moderne (Bourdelle and Antiquity, a Modern Passion), brings together 8 major works by Bourdelle juxtaposed with 150 works by among others Bonnard, Picasso, Rodin and Matisse evocative of Antiquity and the selected works of Bourdelle. Visitors can admire Bourdelle’s torso of Pallas Athena sculpted in marble and a head of Apollo in bronze through to February 4th. Spectacular sculptures include Hercules as an archer, an intricately worked head of Cleopatra and a dying centaur.

Another collection of paintings is being showcased as well, this time exhibiting the personal collection of Claude Monet, which was partially dispersed after his death and has been brought together anew at the Musée Marmottan Monet for the exhibition. Entitled Monet, the Collector, Masterpieces from His Private Collection, the show brings together some 100 works from the museum’s collection as well as loans from major institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Musée d’Orsay and the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C. Monet carefully selected each work in the collection, which includes masterpieces by Renoir, Cézanne, Pissarro and Manet. A section of the show, which is running through to January 14th, is devoted to his collection of Japanese engravings on loan from his home in Giverny.

The Centre Pompidou is honouring another major sculptor, César with a retrospective running through to March 26th marking the 20th anniversary of his death. The artist, a major figure of the Nouveau Réaliste (new realism) movement, enjoyed a career that spanned more than 50 years. The exhibition entitled César, the Retrospective, brings together 130 pieces, both the well-known masterpieces and lesser-known works, displayed in the largest of the Centre Pompidou’s exhibition spaces. The show aims to offer an unprecedented overview of César, regarded as one of the greatest sculptors of his time. He would draw attention early on in his career with his human, animal and insect figures in welded iron that were the object of his first solo show in 1954. His welded iron pieces would be followed by his Expansions and Compressions, regarded as pivotal moments in modern sculpture. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 13

Digital is on display at the Fondation Groupe EDF in a show that takes a look at how artists have interpreted the transformation of our day to day lives with the arrival, in the end of the 1980s, of the computer and more widely digital technologies. Entitled La Belle Vie Numérique ! (The Beautiful Digital Life), the exhibition through diverse works looks at how artists have transformed the way they create their art, demonstrating how artists and architects can, through computers, create shapes, sculptures and buildings that up until now could only be drawn and not made. The show brings together the works of some 30 confirmed and emerging artists and invites the visitors to choose between two different pathways to discover the show, offering a perspective on the exhibition that is different depending upon the chosen path. Running through to March 18th, the show takes a look at how Google, Amazon, Facebook and Apple have entered our lives with notably a video by the artist Winshluss on the dependence upon smartphones and works by Aram Bartholl asking if the social networks dictate our behaviour. Meanwhile going back in time to another age, a fascinating show devoted 14 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

to one of the world’s greatest scientists, Louis Pasteur, is being played out in the Palais de la Découverte. A legend already in his own time for developing the rabies vaccine, Pasteur would bring to the world pasteurisation as well as major advances in the fields of chemistry and microbiology. Suitable for children aged nine and up, the show, entitled Pasteur l’Expérimentateur (Pasteur, the Experimenter), is running through to August 19th and brings together films, interactive displays, reconstitutions of scenes of the time, animated models and an Optical Theatre in which the life and works of Louis Pasteur are recounted. In his own time, Pasteur would orchestrate stagings of his results and give public scientific demonstrations. ADDRESS BOOK Centre Pompidou Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33 Fondation Groupe EDF 6 rue Récamier (7th), 01 53 63 23 45 Fondation Louis Vuitton 8 ave Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01 40 69 96 00 Grand Palais 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17 MusEe Bourdelle 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle (15th), 01 49 54 73 73 MusEe Jacquemart-AndrE 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59 MusEe Marmottan Monet 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01 44 96 50 33 Palais de la DEcouverte Ave Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01 56 43 20 20

César, Pouce, 1965, Bronze poli, [mac] musée d’art contemporain, Marseille. Acquisition de l’État auprès de l’artiste, 1975, attribution à la Ville de Marseille en 2008. © SBJ / Adagp, Paris 2017 © Collection [mac] Musée d’art contemporain -Marseille Photo credit © DR / All right reserved

A landmark exhibition is being played out at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of town. Entitled Etre Moderne: Le MoMA à Paris, (Being Modern, the MoMA in Paris) the exhibition showcases a selection of 200 works from the unparalleled collection of the Museum of Modern Art. The show is running through to March 5th and is curated jointly by the MoMA and the Fondation Louis Vuitton and presents a selection of works in myriad mediums. Etre Moderne features major works by artists including Alexander Calder, Paul Cézanne, Marcel Duchamp, Jasper Johns, René Magritte, Pablo Picasso and Paul Signac.

Andy Warhol (American, 1928–1987) , Double Elvis, 1963. Silkscreen ink on synthetic polymer paint on canvas , Gift of the Jerry and Emily Spiegel Family Foundation in honor of Kirk Varnedoe © The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / ADAGP, Paris 2017;

Andy Warhol’s iconic double Elvis at the MoMA show (left) and César’s famous thumb in polished bronze at the artist’s retrospective at the Centre Pompidou (right)

Paris Déco Off

Destination Decor By Patricia Valicenti

Clockwise from top left: The Voyages Voyages Collection by Jean Paul Gaultier by Lelièvre Paris, the colourful Bloom collection by Aldeco and Exuberant Nature unfolds in the textiles of Camengo

Jean Paul Gaultier by Lelièvre Paris Photo © Morgane le Gall; Aldeco Photo Courtesy of Aldeco; Camengo Photo Courtesy of Camengo

ecor is converging on the French capital this month for Paris Déco Off, which is bringing together 115 houses of decoration in 97 showrooms on both banks of the Seine. The free event, held this year from January 18th through to January 22nd, is when the Parisian houses of décor open up their doors to the visiting houses from out of town and abroad with all parties showing their collections of wallpapers, fabrics, furnishings and home accessories to professionals and the public at large. Colour is being showcased at this year’s event with a free conference (registration required), in French in the morning and in English in the afternoon, being held on January 20th in the Hôtel de l’Industrie, with a round table conference by Jean-Gabriel Causse, a French author and designer specialised in colour. This year’s event is also marked by a charity auction at the Hôtel Drouot on January 18th at 7.30pm for which the exhibiting houses have donated a unique or limited edition object from their collections.

house of Verel de Belval specialised in damasks, lampas and taffetas. Jean Paul Gaultier has created a dream collection entitled Voyages Voyages for Lelièvre Paris, and the house of Houlès has introduced ethnic inspired geometric designs into its new collections. The event is taking place from 9.30am to 7.30pm and until 9.30pm on the 20th Thirty free Renault shuttles transport visitors from the Left Bank venues to the Right Bank venues and vice versa. For further information, maps and shuttle bus stops visit www.paris-deco-off.com To register for the conference email organisation@paris-deco-off.com HOtel de l’Industrie 4 Place Saint-Germain des Prés (6th), 01 44 39 20 50 HOtel Drouot 9 rue Drouot (9th), 01 48 00 20 20

An exhibition on the Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Place Saint-Sulpice on the Left Bank and on the Place des Petits-Pères on the Right Bank is also slated to be held during the event. The show, Paris Déco Off Dresses Up the City, will display 55 panels of photographs of the wallpapers and fabrics being presented during the show. Meanwhile, the pathways to the houses participating in the event are illuminated by 160 lamps in linen from the Masters of Linen and the Trevira Cs textile. Among the houses those paths lead to one finds the Galerie Chevalier presenting its Parsua carpets, made with hand-spun wool, natural dyes and a patina imparted by the water and the sun. The house of Aldeco is celebrating its 25th anniversary with a fun and colourful collection called Bloom featuring 32 new fabrics. Exuberant nature and bright effects are the hallmarks of the Tampa collection of the textile maker Camengo who will be presenting four new collections this year. The house of Gastón y Daniela that opened its first shop in 1876, presents high-end textiles, wallpapers, furniture and trimmings. The fabrics of James Malone are marked by natural fibres like linen, wool and bamboo. Osborne & Little is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year and is presenting 12 new collections. Sumptuous silks are on hand from the w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

A Luxurious Skiing Getaway By Sandra Iskander

16 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Courchevel

oasting the title of the ski resort with the most 5-star and “palace” hotels, and the most Michelinstarred restaurants, Courchevel is unsurprisingly the winter destination for the very fortunate with royalty and A-list stars only some of the VIP guests that visit the resort for a luxurious winter getaway every year.

and early April of each year. Dior, Chanel, Chopard, Graff Diamonds, Zilli, Hermès, Boucheron and de Grisogono are only some of the houses with boutiques here, offering their clientele not only the current collections but some houses also offer limited edition pieces reserved only for their Courchevel clients.

Sweeping views of the French Alps and unrivalled comfort in service, including no queuing times at its ski lifts, even during peak times, give Courchevel a vantage that is sought after by its exigent clientele.

A boutique worth visiting, and which has become a shopping institution here in Courchevel, is Bernard Orcel. The multi-brand boutique offers clients a wide range of high-end brands, including Brunello Cucinelli, Balmain and Corto Moltedo. Alongside sportswear collections, suitable for the slopes, including Toni Sailer, Bernard Orcel also stocks ready-to-wear collections, including Jimmy Choo heels. The boutique also has a second address, Bernard Orcel Lab, where the glamorous couture gowns by Lebanese designer Elie Saab are found, ready to be worn in the evenings when visitors dine at the finest restaurants before heading to La Mangeoire, the hottest restaurantpiano bar where everyone goes to be seen.

Domain skiable Courchevel © PatriceMestari

Created after World War II, Courchevel was the first ski resort to be constructed from nothing, unlike other resorts that were created around already existing villages. Today, the resort is encircled by charming chalets, both privately owned or part of the luxurious hotels that are designed to also resemble chalets, albeit much larger ones. Here, holiday-makers look to ski, eat well, pamper themselves with spa treatments and shop, and the resort that was originally created to offer everyone, from all walks of life, an affordable skiing destination, has ironically become where almost only the wealthy holiday. Courchevel is home to some of the most upmarket boutiques in the world, which open their posh doors during the skiing season only, which falls between mid-December

An ideal way of spending an afternoon after hitting the slopes all day, swishing and swooshing down the famous Alps and glimpsing the Mont Blanc while skiing or leisurely racket walking through the snow, is booking yourself in for a much-deserved massage. With luxurious hotels naturally come equally luxurious spas, with each hotel spa managed by a renowned skincare brand. A popular spa is the Sothys w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 17

Take a dip in the Les Neiges indoor pool (above) and hit the slopes in style with ski wear from Bernard Orcel (below)

Spa at Le Strato Hotel, where the signature massage, simply named Le Strato, uses a toning oil made with a blend of essential oils to help you relax. The highlight of the signature massage though is when the masseuse simultaneously massages one side of your shoulders and one ankle, leaving you in a relaxation coma. Another equally intoxicating treatment is offered at Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges. The hotel’s spa, which uses products by Biologique Recherche, promotes bespoke treatments, catering to every client’s needs. One of the spa’s signature treatments is the WellBeing Massage, which geniusly starts by working on your front before ending the treatment with a back massage, unlike most treatments at other spas that start a massage with the back. For visitors who enjoy fine dining à la Française, Courchevel’s prized Michelin-starred restaurants will leave you in complete appreciation of the finer things in life. One fine dining restaurant not to be missed is Baumanière 1850, the one-star Michelin restaurant at Le Strato Hotel. Chef Jean-André Charial has put together a menu that recalls his Mediterranean cuisine from his restaurant in Provence while using local produce, creating dishes that are both hearty and refined. For lunch in the sun between skiing up and down the beautiful Alps, BFire by Mauro Colagreco is perfect. Located in the Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges, the restaurant is easily accessed from the slopes, making it easy to walk right in from the snow to its outdoor dining area, and with warm blankets made available you can keep warm outside while soaking in the sun. The casual eatery sees chef Colagreco put together a menu of Italian and Argentinian-inspired cuisine, with generous portions cooked on a wood stove and served in large pots, making every dish ideal to share before heading out onto the slopes for a little more skiing fun. 18 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

WHERE TO STAY Le Strato Hotel The hotel owned by the family behind the iconic skiwear brand Rossignol, is a charming boutique hotel with a homelike feel with a contemporary take in its design. Vanoise National Park Rue de Bellecôte, 73120 Courchevel 1850 04 79 41 51 60

HOtel BarriEre Les Neiges A Barrière establishment, Les Neiges is the latest hotel in a long list of luxury hotels to open up in the famous resort. With a chalet-like design, the hotel is very cosy with undeniable decor codes spilling over from the brand’s other hotels that feature cinema-inspired details including famous Studio Harcourt portraits of international movie stars gracing the walls. Vanoise National Park 422 rue de Bellecôte, 73120 Courchevel 1850 09 70 81 85 01

Take in the breathtaking view of the Alps from the Le Strato bar (above) before enjoying dinner at Baumanière 1850 (below)

ADDRESS BOOK BaumaniEre 1850 Le Strato Hotel Bernard Orcel Rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 08 23 51 Bernard Orcel Lab Rue de l’Eglise, Courchevel 1850 04 79 07 89 36 BFire Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges Biologique Recherche Spa Hôtel Barrière Les Neiges Boucheron Rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 08 22 58 Chanel Place du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 09 39 88 Chopard Rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 01 15 15

de Grisogono Espace Diamant, Rue de l’Eglise, Courchevel 1850 04 79 07 52 53 Dior 98 rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 22 29 00 Graff Rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 24 59 12 HermEs Le Coeur de Courchevel, 1850 rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850 04 79 01 18 50 La Mangeoire Rue Park City, Courchevel 1850 06 50 66 80 42 Sothys Spa Le Strato Hotel Zilli Rue de l’Eglise, Courchevel 1850 04 79 04 27 95

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The Guide

Shopping

By Sandra Iskander

For Her | For Him | Beauty Buys | Ski Looks | Department Stores Gabriela wears Dsquared top and ski jacket Bogner ski pants

Turn to page 28 for more looks from our Hitting the Slopes in Style photo shoot

20 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Jonathan wears Toni Sailer jacket, pants and fleece jacket

Shopping

For Her

Cashmere Landscapes Nothing feels more luxurious against the skin more than cashmere and Barrie, the Scottish cashmere manufacturer acquired by French fashion house Chanel back in 2012, is one of the most iconic names in cashmere with its boutique in Paris worth a visit for a chic wardrobe update when visiting the fashion capital. The manufacturer created its eponymous brand in 2014, creating collections using its savoir-faire that has made it the go-to manufacturer for the world’s most prestigious fashion houses including of course Chanel. Forty steps to make one sweater attest to the house’s exigency when it comes to offering clients quality garments, including one of the most important steps in the process being of washing the items in water from the Teviot River. The pure water helps to open up the cashmere fibres, making them exceptionally soft, and the amount of time spent washing the piece is crucial, if overwashed the cashmere could turn clumpy and if underwashed the cashmere is left feeling rough. You can discover the softness of the cashmere with the house’s latest capsule collection created with Maison Lesage. The collection includes three sweaters with each featuring a different landscape embroidered by the famous embroidery house. Barrie Boutique 22 rue Cambon (1st), 01 49 27 03 86

Barrie Photo © Karl Lagerfeld

Nature Meets Fashion Japanese fashion designer, Yumi Katsura, has always been fascinated by the kimono, the traditional dress in Japan, and with her autumn/winter 2017/2018 collection, the designer brings life to the traditional piece of clothing with her own modern flair. Inspired by Japanese artists Suzuki Kiitsu and Tawaraya Sōtatsu, Katsura has covered her latest collection with nature, bringing to fashion Japanese nature from wildlife to flowers. Handcrafted, The Awakening of Nature collection intertwines the French savoir-faire in couture and the Japanese traditional and immaculate attention to detail. Yumi Katsura Boutique 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01 47 03 40 97 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

Shopping For Her

Nude is new Black Embrace the new hue like Jennifer Lawrence in Dior and update your wardrobe with these must-have nude pieces

22 W H E R E Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Barrie Photo © Karl Lagerfeld

1 Balmain x L’Oréal, available at L’Oréal Boutique, 62 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01 40 37 91 78 2 Uka, available at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00 3 Darjeeling, 74 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01 43 45 14 20 4 Aubade, 23 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 42 66 53 97 - 5 Dior, 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 0140 73 73 73 6 Max Mara, 408-410 rue Saint Honoré (8th), 01 42 61 75 67 7 Barbara Bui, 62 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 66 05 87 8 Burberry, 56 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21 - 9 Uniqlo, 17 rue Scribe (9th), 01 58 18 30 55 10 Morgan, 92 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 58 56 21 49 11 Barrie, 22 rue Cambon (1st), 01 49 27 03 86

Where Paris Promotion

By Kyra Brenzinger

Fakhriya khalaFova

A Star of Azerbaijani Fashion

akhriya Khalafova, a major fashion designer and celebrity on makeover shows in Azerbaijan, took Paris by storm during fashion week to reveal her latest creations beneath the bright lights of the capital city.

Against the fresh background of the Hôtel de Crillon, located at Place de la Concorde in Paris, Khalafova dazzled runways at the Oriental Fashion Show. Her vibrantly colourful dresses were genuinely stunning works of art against the golden canvas of the hotel’s decor. “I especially love the vivid colours used in traditional Azerbaijani attire, which take advantage of the entire spectrum”, says Khalafova, illustrating the bustier and belt of an emerald green dress featuring sequinned accents to highlight the wearer’s movement. The dress, which also has sea-foam and moss green hues, is adorned with crystal jewels that accentuate the waist, crowning pleated, flowing fabric for a look that invokes ancient goddesses. Khalafova is also a fan of light pinks and fuchsias. Her 1950s-inspired bustier and tulle dresses feature a high-waisted, Empire silhouette. Most of all, her designs cater to feminine curves and reflect their creator’s joie de vivre. “For me, ideal beauty is exemplified by Azerbaijani women, who possess natural elegance and hold their heads high like royalty. These women know what they want by developing their own tastes while simultaneously being cultured and seeking both physical and spiritual harmony”, she explains. Khalafova herself embodies this vision. After years of study in neuropsychology, she successfully started her career in fashion design in 1998. Khalafova confessed her admiration for the French capital following the show in Paris, on a

balcony at the Hôtel de Crillon overlooking the Place de la Concord. “It’s a magical place to have a show—a place where high-profile clients come from all over the world. They say that Paris is the city of light, and it really lights up everything that comes into contact with it!”. After the show in Paris, Khalafova went straight to Vienna to receive the Fashion For Europe award for European fashion designers. “It’s a wonderful recognition for my personal approach to take elements of traditional Azerbaijani clothing and transform them into current fashion”. The names of her collections— “Oil Goddess”, “Ladies of Azerbaijan” and “Rhythms of Hope”—were chosen to illustrate the symbolism and philosophy behind that approach. “In today’s world, fashion is a blend of styles and strong icons. Even when you’re designing readyto-wear collections, you always have to know how to capture the element of surprise. It’s also crucial for me to teach young students at the fashion design school in Baku to expose myself to

new ideas, and to take part in forums and design contests”. In keeping with her love of a good challenge, Khalafova launched a new line of perfumes in 2010, Nuray, which is Azeri for ‘bright moon’. She has also just launched Nuray Pink, Nuray Green and Nuray Blue after her three favourite colours, which are meant represent the three highlights of a woman’s day. Her other perfumes, including Caspian Rose and Rose de l’amour, have earned international success. These perfumes capture the essence of the sublime rose gardens that grow on the coasts of the Caspian Sea with an enchanting fragrance that invites you on a dreamlike adventure to Azerbaijan, the home of some very talented women.

Fakhriya Khalafova Baku - Azerbaijan Phone: +99470 222 45 55 and WhatsApp fakhriyakhalafova@gmail.com www. fakhriyakhalafova.com

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Shopping For Him

An Asserted Accessory Under the historical glass rooftop of Galerie Vivienne is where you will find the Aïzea boutique where luxurious leathergoods are put on-show, asserting their place in every gentleman’s collection of accessories. Specialising in designs using exotic leather including python and alligator, Aïzea offers shoppers a selection of handmade sneakers and bags ranging from backpacks to more traditional briefcases. The brand also offers demanding gentlemen a bespoke service by way of designing their own bag, offering them the opportunity to create a unique accessory. Aïzea Boutique 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09 86 58 69 41

A Sleek Celebration

24 W H E R E Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

The house of Cerruti 1881 has celebrated its 50th anniversary in style through the release of a limited edition of the Basilea family of watches. Only 50 timepieces of each of the six Basilea models have been brought out with each watch being individually numbered and presented in a special anniversary box. Classic, simple design and fine materials are the hallmarks of the watches, which are fashioned in complex textures like rubber, leather and stainless steel. The handsome watches for men are outfitted with a black dial enhanced with the 50th anniversary emblem in red. These water resistant timepieces have a diameter of 43.5mm and depending upon the model a case of stainless steel or IP Gun. Each of the six models has its own strap available in dark brown, green, black, stainless steel, an IP Gun two-tone bracelet and an IP Gun bracelet (pictured here). - P.V.

Created with the large man in mind, including rugby player Alexandre Flanquart (pictured) who has become the brand’s ambassador, Capel offers larger than life gentlemen an impressive selection of ready-to-wear collections suited to their grand stature. Brands on show include Paul & Shark and Derek Rose as well as the boutique’s eponymous brand, which caters to gentlemen who are looking for pieces that are suited for their causal days off as well as their board meetings. This season update your wardrobe with suits, shirts, pants and blazers with your measurements in mind.

Cerruti 1881 Haussmann Boutique 51-53 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 43 12 51 05

Capel Boutique 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01 42 66 34 21

Tall and Chic

Shopping

Beauty

Sweet, Sweet Honey It is edible golden deliciousness, though the virtues of honey do not stop at just tasting good and adding a little bit of sweetness to our tea, it also helps maintain our skin’s youthfulness by injecting it with antioxidants. From masks to cleansers, try these honey-infused beauty must-haves..

1 - skinfood’s Black sugar Honey Mask Wash Off gently exfoliates your skin thanks to its black sugar granules while the honey softens your skin leaving it looking smooth and youthful. Available at Sephora 2 - Valmont’ Elixir des Glaciers Essence of Bees line of beauty products sees the healing agents of honey injected into your beauty routine. The sérum Majestueux Vos Yeux eye serum promises to give you younger-looking eyes with its silky texture that can be used on the contours of your eyes as well as directly on your eyelids, firming your eyelids and wiping years off your face by reducing the signs of wrinkles. Valmont Spa Le Meurice Hotel 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

1 2

3 - Literally helping you get some beauty sleep, sephora’s Honey sleeping Mask helps your skin get nourished while you catch some Z’s. Working to moisturise dry skin, you are awoken to find yourself with a plumper face, looking younger and refreshed. Available at Sephora 4 - Lancôme’s new Miel-en-Mousse Foaming Cleansing Make-Up remover with acacia honey helps rid your skin from impurities. its honey-like texture first melts onto your skin to remove your make-up before transforming into a mousse to remove any residue, leaving your skin feeling clean and soft. Lancôme Boutique 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 65 30 74

5 - abellie’s Crème Nutrition intense, enriched with royal jelly, helps firm your skin, giving it an organic facelift. Abellie Boutique 75 rue Saint-Antoine (4th), 01 40 29 90 60 and don’t forget to add a dollop of honey to your tea, to help fight aging from the inside, because beauty always starts from within. a great place to visit is the alexandre stern boutique, which specialises in honey and where you will find everything from avocado honey to detox honey. Alexandre Stern Boutique 15 rue Vignon (8th), 09 52 37 04 54

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Shopping Fashion

Hitting the Slopes in Style

Gabriela wears Toni Sailer ski pants and jacket Jonathan wears Fendi skijacket Bogner ski pants

26 W HE RE Pa r i s i J a N Ua r Y 2018

Photographer: Alex Fadel Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assistant: Pierrick Patarin Make-Up Artist & Hairstylist: Kim Chincholle Models: Gabriela Linhares from Crystal Model Management and Jonathan Caillat from Marilyn Agency Special thanks to Kube Hotel Paris All looks available at Bernard Orcel in Courchevel

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Odri ski suit Mariam Jewelry ear muffs Santoni snow boots

28 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Mach skis Fendi ski vest Dsquared top and pants Mariam Jewelry gloves Santoni boots

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Jonathan wears Aztech Mountain ski pants and jacket Antoine Dénériaz ski sunglasses Santoni boots Gabriela wears Fendi ski suit and gloves Toni Sailer beanie Chiara Ferragni snow boots 30 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Fabiana Filippi pants and top Mariam Jewelry ear muffs and gloves Bernard Orcel skis

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Fabiana Filippi top and hooded cape Maison Ullens pants Tess Van Ghert bracelets

32â&#x20AC;&#x2021;â&#x20AC;&#x2030;W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Jonathan wears Dsquared jacket, jeans and top Gabriela wears Simonetta Ravizza coat The Row shirt and pants Tess Van Ghert bag

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Address Book

shopping

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories

Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),

01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Laulhère - 14-16 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), in the courtyard, 01.42.65.90.59. M° Madeleine Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine

BeAuty spAs & products

Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Cercle Delacre - 17 ave George V (8th), 01.40.70.99.70. M° George V Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Maison Arabian Oud - 63 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.43.59.59.59. M° Franklin D. Roosvelt Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal

Books & music

FNAC - Bercy Village - 49/53 Cour

Saint-Emilion (12th), M° Cour Saint-Emilion Paul Beuscher - 27 blvd Beaumarchais (4th), 01.44.54.36 00. M° Bastille Pianos Pleyel - 93-95 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01.45.61.53.00. M° Gare de Lyon Shakespeare & Company - 37 rue de la Bûcherie (5th), 01.43.25.40.93. Mº Saint-Michel W.H. Smith - 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.77.88.99. Mº Concorde

children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine

emile lafaurie

| Clothing: Men & Women

34 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd),

01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries La Grande Récré - 79 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.42.10. M° George V Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet

clothing: men & Women Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Cerruti 1881 - 51 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.53.30.18.81, M° Havre-Caumartin Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Emile Lafaurie - 56/58 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.50.05. M° Saint-Paul Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Gresley Paris - 24 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.33.35.81. M° Pyramides Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Iris Cantabri - 15 rue des Blancs Manteaux (4th), 01.70.23.93.23. M° Hôtel de Ville Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Ports 1961 - 251 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.35.41. M° Madeleine Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt

Vhernier

Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Yumi Katsura France - 26 rue Cambon (1st), 01.47.03.40.97. M° Concorde Yohji Yamamoto - 4 rue Cambon Paris (1st), 01.40.20.00.71. M° Concorde Yves Salomon - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.34.90. M° Tuileries

depArtment stores & shopping centres

Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels

BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (4th), 09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)

eye WeAr

GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V

JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac

Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac

fABrics: couture

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde

home

Baccarat - 79 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.36.26. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine

Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde

Jean Perzel - 3 rue de la Cité Universitaire (17th), 01.45.88.77.24. RER B: Cité Universitaire

Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),

01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Roche Bobois - 207-213 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.49.54.01.70. M° Rue du Bac Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine

| Jewellery & Watches

shopping

Address Book

JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra

Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie

Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries By Marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. M° Alma- Marceau Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde Dinh Van - 16 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.74.49. M° Opéra Djula - 269 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.86.08.56. M° Concorde DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Garel - 17 Rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.40.04. M° Opéra Garland - 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.17.95. M° Opéra Gas Bijoux - 26-28 Rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Quatre Septembre Gorky - 18 rue Duphot (1st) , 01.42.60.22.76. M° Concorde Gringoire Joallier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Miromesnil Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 29 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Alma-Marceau

Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 48 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.47.20.48.48. M° George V Tasaki - At the Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Tuileries Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde

lingerie

Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries

Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st),

01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Kate Lee - 16 rue des Gravilliers (3rd), 01.48.04.57.72. M° Arts et Métiers Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau

multi-BrAnd Boutiques Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard

shoes Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V

Aubercy – 34 rue Vivienne (2nd),

01.42.33.93.61. M° Grands Boulevards

Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),

Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th),

Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) ,

Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),

01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine

01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde

luggAge And BAgs

Aïzea - 62 Galerie Vivienne (2nd), 09.86.58.69.41. M° Bourse

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st),

01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon

acaba

| Accessories

01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde

l’Occitane

| Beauty Spas & Products w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

LUXURY MAP

Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal

la Concorde

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

•

Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai Christofle

•

CONCORDE

• RUE ROYALE

■

•

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

•

Marella

Le Jacquard

Antiquités

LEI NE

INES

APUC

DES C

RUE

RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA

• De Fursac

• Gresley

ivk eli do t n

RUE RICHELIEU

■

Bibliothèque Nationale - Site Richelieu-Louvois

•D

• Kam’s

• •

•

• •

RUE DU LOUVR E

Bonpoint IRO OU

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

Hartford

’AB

•

Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites

Maje

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Christian Louboutin

Place des Victoires

by Terry Xavier Lust

0039 Italy

•

RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM

•

Musée du Louvre

Aïzea

Galerie Vivienne

•

Palais Royal

• • • • • • • •

•

Pie rre Co D Har rto elv dy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey

RUE DE VALOIS

RUE VIVIENNE

•

Acaba •

L’O

id •A •Q ier L nna u R e

N VE

Francesco Russo

• • •

CIN

RUE DE RIVOLI

ÉR

RUE DES PYRAMIDES

RUE DE LA FEUILLADE

36 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UA R Y 2018

’OP

RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS

15 Galerie Véro-Dodat - Paris 1st (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel: +33 (0)1 40 39 01 51 / www.angelacaputi.com

L DE

•Cotélac

PALAIS ROYAL

Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte

•

OPÉRA Kusmi Tea

•Paraboot RUE SAINT-ROCH • Verbreuil

Galerie de Valois

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ

Garel

Opéra Garnier

•

Galerie de Montpensier

Italian jewellery designer Angela Caputi set up her workshop in Florence in 1975. Her unique high fashion costume jewellery, mixing various materials, colours and textures, is now available at her new boutique in Paris. This collection is extremely sophisticated and could be a special present for each woman.

Garland

RUE DE LA PA IX •

•Christian Dior •M.A.C

•

• RedLine

Vendôme

Place du Marché Saint-Honoré

•Nodus PYRAMIDES •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ

Vivienne • Westwood

Printemps du Louvre

• Akillis

FreyWille

•

Place

•Dodo •Baldinini •Moynat • Burma •Stuart Weitzman • Balenciaga

ONORÉ

The Kooples •

RUE S A IN T -H

Ami • Missoni• Kiehl’s• • Barbara Rihl Colette • Chantal Thomass • Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • La Prairie •

SHOP STOP

•

RUE S A IN T -H

•

Carrousel du Louvre

RUE SAINT- HONOR É

IG LI ON E

Goyard • •Dubail Church’s• Paule Ka• TUILERIES Jack Russell

62 Galerie Vivienne - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)9 86 58 69 41 www.aizea-paris.com

• Zwilling • Lipault

• Français O T • Gorky H P

Chanel CA MB ON Hedgren RU E CA MB ON • Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON Jamin • Kiton Messika• • Hervé Maison Puech Léger Tommy • Coach • Abriza Morabito• Alexander McQueen Hilfiger • Chloé• • Brioni Ports • •Emporio Armani DsQuared2 • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •David Morris Arije Bally • J.M. • • Weston Chopard RU E CA ST

SHOP STOP

AïZEA

RUE TRONC HET

•Eres • Carel • Swarovski

Église de la Madeleine

Paris •RU E

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

AïZEA is a French contemporary leathergoods company from the Basque Country, which is destined for aesthetes who work and travel. Precision and a sense of detail, premium quality and exceptional skins are the key words that describe the brand’s expertise. The AïZEA collection is declined in Taurillon, and in precious leathers as Python and Wild Alligator from USA.

• Wempe • Lancaster • Kate spade • Tory Burch • Max Mara

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

MADELEINE

WEMPE

Gucci Chanel • • Dior RUE ROYALE

•

• Césaire Hublot • Chronopassion • Djula • Fendi• Parakian

• Oliver Grant

Espace Cachemire

•

Jeu de Paume

•Lanvin • La Perla • Laulhère

Jardin des Tuileries

RUE DE RIVOLI

■

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

Musée de l’Orangerie

Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino

Burberry

•

Place de

RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ

SHOP STOP

▼

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

LUXURY MAP

Saint-Germain SHOP STOP

E AU V

CAR RUE

Moissonnier

CHE

ÉRES TS-P

GAU

CHE

Buly 1803 • TE

IVE

A PA R

RÉ R

BON

Poltrona Frau

NEU

SAIN

CAR

VER

DES

•

RUE

E AU N DE B

RUE

Escales •

Debauve &

TS-P DES

• John Lobb Gallais • Bang DS • & Olufsen AI NT Edward Green • -G Zadig & Voltaire Roche Bobois• ER MA Cinna • • Karl Lagerfeld IN • Aubercy • AR

Atelier Valentin

GON

DRA

38 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UA R Y 2018

VÉ RI

RUE

L’A R DE

Montparnasse

MONTPARNASSE-BIENVENÜE

Tikibou Toy Store B V D

EDG

INE

VAU G RUE DE

Jardins du Luxembourg

•

RU E DE CO ND É

RUE DE L’ODÉON

RUE DE TOURNON

IR A R D

• IUNX

RUE DE TOURNON

ASS

RUE MAD AME

ARN

RU E BO NA PA RT E

NTP

NES

REN

• Rive Gauche •

RUE DE SEINE

RUE MA BIL LON

RUE PRI NCE SSE

RUE DES CANETTES

Église Saint-Sulpice RUE SERVANDONI

RUE

REN

NES

RUE MÉZ IÉR ES

▼

ES SA RU E D’OD

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 54 62 15 / www.dotdrops.paris

BVD

DOT-DROPS

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

S PA IL ARD RA

• L’Occitane • Lacoste

E-M

IDI

RUE BON APAR TE

RUE MA DAM E

RUE

RUE DE LA CH

DE R

A IS E

ENN

RUE

BOULEV

R U • Guerlain • Wolford

• Fabrice

SHOP STOP

Poiray • Liu Jo BO Christian RUE U • Façonnable L • E VA DE L Louboutin Stella • ’A B Louis RD B AY • SAI • Agent Luna Etro • E Vuitton N T • Provocateur G • • ERM Sonia • Brunello • AIN Rykiel Moncler • Cucinelli Burberry Ralph Hugo Boss SAINT-GERMAIN Smith Voyeurs • Lauren • Paul Emporio • DES-PRÉS • Ami Maison Armani BOU • Lejaby• • • L E • De Fursac VA R L.K. Cartier • Y’s D SA • Céline Bennett INTGER Ferragamo Rolex• MAI • Dinh Van Carven • MABILLON N Crockett & Jones • Hackett• Montblanc Alexis Mabille • • Kenzo • • Gas Paraboot • • J.M. Weston Bijoux Saint Laurent• L’Ibis Rouge • • OUR • DU F Liu Jo RUE Sportmax• Prada • Marina • Tod’s Rinaldi • Djula Dot-Drops • • U FOUR La Perla • Alain Mikli • D Durance RUE M.A.C.• • • Repetto Le Mont Omega Saint Michel Berluti • RES V • É S E Saint D • • • E RUE DE BABYLONE • RU Agnès b Lancaster Laurent Longines Camper •Wille • SU LP IC E T• Frey IN • SA SÉVRES-BABYLONE Longchamp RUE • • Hermès Robert Eres • • ULPICE Clergerie SAINT-SULPICE Zadig RUE ST-S Le Bon •Lise Loxwood S & Voltaire E Charmel • Marché S É V R DE • • Il Bisonte

S PA IL ARD RA

68 rue du Bac - Paris 7th Tel: +33 (0)1 45 48 58 10 www.jlcopticien.com

EJ AC

Faienceries • de Gien

RUE BON A PA

BOULEV

JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne and more...

• R TE

RUE

RU E MA ZAR INE

Elsa

• Vanier

SAIN

ÉRES

JLC Opticien RUE DU BAC

RU E DE SEI NE

•Silvera

▼

•

LTA I

•

Gérard • Darel

•

GAU

ITÉ

Ofée . • Maje • Atelier Cologne • Hartwood • Deyrolle The Kooples

LIL

IVE

RUE FÉROU

SHOP STOP

33 blvd Raspail - Paris 7th Tel: +33(0) 1 45 44 19 30 www.crockettandjones.com

IVE

RUE

A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the English luxury brand for men and women is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.

RÉ R

DU B

CROCKETT & JONES

L’ U N

•

ED E

RUE

DE B

•

Aga

RUE

LIL

DU B

RUE

Musée d’Orsay

Parfums

Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug

PARIS 8TH FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ

PARIS 10TH NEAR CANAL ST MARTIN

PARIS 6TH RUE DU CHERCHE-MIDI

CLOSE TO AV. MATIGNON, A SUNLIT, 248 SQ.M. (2,669 SQ.FT.) PENTHOUSE OPENING ONTO 91 SQ.M. TERRACES W/ PANORAMIC VIEW. 102 SQ.M. LIVING ROOM, OPEN KITCHEN, 4 SUITES, AIR CO, HOME AUTOMATION. PRICE: 6,900,000 €

A FINE, SPLIT-LEVEL, 155 SQ.M. (1,668 SQ.FT.) LOFT SUITABLE BOTH FOR RESIDENTIAL AND PROFESSIONAL USE, + SEPARATE, 22 SQ.M. WORKSHOP, BOTH OVERLOOKING A QUIET COURT. 16 SQ.M. RETAIL SPACE AT EXTRA COST. PRICE : 1,310,000 €

IN AN OUTSTANDING 18TH-CENTURY BUILDING OF THIS ICONIC STREET OF ST GERMAIN, A DELIGHTFUL, 93 SQ.M. (1,001 SQ.FT.), 1-BEDROOM PIED-À-TERRE WITH AN OPEN VIEW. 3RD FLOOR, ELEVATOR IN SERVICE ENTRANCE. PRICE : 1,980,000 €

PARIS 6TH RUE DE TOURNON

PARIS 6TH SAINT-GERMAIN

CLOSE TO LUXEMBOURG GARDENS, ON THE TOP 2 FLOORS OF A GRAND 18THCENTURY BUILDING W/ ELEVATOR, AN 89 SQ.M. APARTMENT W/ LOVELY VIEW, LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, KITCHEN, 2 BEDROOMS AND BATHROOM. PRICE: 2,100,000 €

A WONDERFUL TURNKEY PIED-À-TERRE OF 100 SQ.M. (1,076 SQ.FT.) ON HIGH FLOOR W/ ELEVATOR, OVERLOOKING GARDENS, WITH LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, 2 BEDROOMS, 2 BATHROOMS, STYLISHLY DESIGNED. PRICE ON REQUEST

PARIS 7TH CHAMP-DE-MARS

PARIS 7TH INVALIDES

PARIS 5TH HOUSE ON THE ROOF

IN THE FINEST BUILDING ON CHAMP-DEMARS A 182 SQ.M. (1,959 SQ.FT.) HIGHCEILINGED, SUNLIT PENTHOUSE W/ 11 FRENCH WINDOWS OPENING ONTO A LARGE TERRACE W/ A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE EIFFEL TOWER. 3 BEDS, 3 BATHS. PRISTINE CONDITION. PRICE ON REQUEST

IN A LUXURY, 1930S BUILDING W/ ELEVATOR, AN ELEGANT, 175 SQ.M. (1,884 SQ.FT.) APT W/ 3.40M. CEILING AND A BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF INVALIDES. LIVING ROOM, DINING ROOM, MASTER SUITE, GUEST BEDROOM. GD COND. PRICE: 3,950,000 €

CLOSE TO THE RIVER ON A CHARMING STREET, A TOP-FLOOR, 213 SQ. (2.292 SQ.FT.) SPLIT-LEVEL WALK-UP OPENING ONTO A SMALL TERRACE. LIVING ROOM, SITTING ROOM, DINING ROOM, 2 BEDROOMS, 2 BATHROOMS, STUDY. GOOD CONDITION. PRICE ON REQUEST

LUXURY MAP

Champs-Élysées - Montaigne

ISTO

NUE

CEA

LLOT AV

MA R UE

OT UE EN AV

• Cartier

Montblanc

• Swarovski • GrandOptical

GEORGE V Louis Vuitton•

Kenzo

PIER

•

GE NUE

•

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

RUE FR

DOR

OCCA

DU B

RUE

DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping

Elysées Joaillerie

•

• •M.A.C. •Levi’s • Elysées •Tissot Horlogerie • Sephora • Guerlain • LE66 Champs-Elysées • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE

LA B

RUE DE PONTHIEU

ANÇO

IS 1 ER

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

AVE

• Marionnaud Paris

•

• Eric Bompard• Ellie • Bvlgari • Dubail Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard •Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • EA • • RC A Christofle Creed M Altan La Grande• UE EN • RUE PI •Les Suites • Bottier• Récré AV Arije • ERRE C Cartier • HAR Givenchy Kusmi RON • EV Tea • Chaumet Scabal • GEORG Rolex • E Beretta Dubail • NU Cercle E V A De Fursac Paule Ka • Arabian • Delacre • Oud • • Burma RUE Sicis • Franck • RUE MARB• EUF •Tom Ford PIER•R Carvil Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE • RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • Balenciaga A TR R • Vionnet É U MOI E M• • Smalto By Marie&Gas Bijoux LLE A Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain ALMA MARCEAU Karl • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld Zadig&Voltaire • Valentino Caron AVE • Thomas • • Harry N UE M Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Alaïa NAN Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello MARIG E Dior • RUE DE Cesare Paciotti • Cucinelli • PSG • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • • Maison Ullens FRANKLIN Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NUE • Akris Chanel Dior • MON • Givenchy TA Fendi • Chanel • IGNE • • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Dolce&Gabbana •• Jil Sander Gucci Blumarine ST Dupont IE

RUE

Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer

Lacoste •

E V Hermes Omega

ORG

ERB

SHOP STOP

RUE BALZAC

Armani Collezioni RE 1 ER DE S

•

• Milady

C AR

•

SANO

Hugo Boss

E BAS

JEAN GIRAUDOUX

RUE D

RUE

ALILÉ

CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE

Publicis Drugstore • Lancel •

ENU

A EDL

RUE G

IÉN E D’

EM AR CEA

D’IÉ

OÉT

• J.M. Weston • RUE DU CO

LIS Disney ÉE

• Quicksilver

ELT

EJ EA NG OU

Elie Saab • ROOSEV D.

1ER

UE F

NUE

AVE

IN NKL

N AVE

•Adidas Meet the French

•

• Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN

UE M

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

EVE

OOS

D.R

RAN

KLIN

FRA

Grand Palais

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

ALBERT

40 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UA R Y 2018

COURS

12/14 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 53 53 14 94 www.meet-the-french.com

NFÉRENCE

Meet the French is not only an exceptional chauffeur service but the company with 85 years of experience also offers its elite clientele a bespoke service. While standard trips are easily organised, the company prides itself on also organising guided tours to discover France’s abundance of savoir-faire.

PORT DE LA CO

MEET THE FRENCH

FRI

Maison Baccarat

NUE

AVE

AHO

■

AVE

57 rue Pierre Charron – Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

D’IÉ

AV EN U

AC M

AVENUE DE WAGRAM

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

NUE

AVE

M NUE

NUE AVE

ALILÉ

RUE DE CHAI

BERETTA GALLERY

DOUX

RUE G Place des États-Unis

SHOP STOP

Beautiful tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting is found in this gallery boutique. A man can be dressed from head to toes here in this shop akin to a curiosity cabinet where you can find high quality, refined accessories and lovely gift ideas.

Arc de Triomphe

AVE

RUE JEAN GIRAU

ARABIAN OUD

TOR

AVENUE KLÉBER

Fabio Caviglia•

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 43 59 59 59 www.arabianoud.fr

VIC

AVENUE KLÉBER

On the most famous avenue in the French capital you will find the intoxicating scents of Arabian Oud. This perfume house showcases an array of perfumes with strong notes of agar wood, musk, incense and scented oils.

LAUR

FOC

RUE

NUE

AVE

AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE

SHOP STOP

ATIG

NON

LUXURY MAP Vendôme

SHOP STOP

Gare Saint-Lazare

TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES

SAINT-LAZARE RUE SAINT-LAZARE

Passage du Havre

E D E LA

Printemps R U R U E JO U B ER Mode T RUE DE

•

BOU

URIN

DES

MAT

HUR

INS

•

Sephora

•

ARTI RUE

Exaltation

•

R U E ÈD OU

ES CR

AR D VI

Golfino • •Loding

•Zwilling

J.M. Weston• Gorky Antiquités Tommy Hedgren • B O N Hilfiger AM

•Gant • •

•

• Max&Moi

Bucherer

Tag Heuer Montblanc

•

Boggi

EL OU

RUE

Waskoll A. Lange • & Söhne • Marvella • C Repetto • E Poiray U R Corthay Y Garland • Christofle • • Harrison Cartier • OLNE Piaget Yumi Katsura • Diesel V • Hugo Boss • E • Bodum • IX • Lery R U Panerai Jimmy Choo IWC • PA Dinh Van • A Alexander McQueen • L •Fred Louis Vuitton • • UE DE• Breitling Emporio Armani Cartier R • Jaquet Droz Dubail Dior Bvlgari • Anshindo • Damiani Miki Graff Diamond’s • • • •Vacheron Constantin • • House • Tasaki• • • De Fursac •Charvet • Gas Bijoux • Omega Rolex Jaeger- • • • Boucheron RUE • LeCoultre DA Van Cleef NIE DsQuared2 • • Desigual • Fred •• Place Vendôme • & Arpels LLE CA Kusmi Tumi • S Blancpain • A N O Tea • de Grisogono VA • Chanel RU J.M. Weston • Chopard EG • • Piaget O Chaumet MB • • OU Hublot • • ST Breguet • RU • Patek Philippe Place du Marché Zadig & ED • Dior FreyWille • ES Voltaire PE Saint-Honoré TIT Meyrowitz • Louis Vuitton • S-C • HA Lydia MP Montagut • S Dodo Courteille • RU Moynat • ED H.Stern • UM Acaba • Tourist ON • • Balenciaga Arije T - T Paule Ka Office HA Akillis • BO • PYRAMIDES RUE R • • • Jovoy TH Missoni ÉR Christian Dior • M.A.C ÈSE Ami • • • •Frank Namani Bonpoint Colette • Penhaligon’s • Mulberry • RU

DES

C AP

UCI

NES

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

D’

-H

TIN

T-R

T LLE

JUI 29 ED U

D’A

-H

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

-H

41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 / www.acaba.fr

ACABA At ACABA Gantier, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will fit you best. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. Come and try the Le Mans Classic drivers gloves, golf, horse-riding, hunting gloves... or any unlined one, to match your outfit. For Her, for Him, the new collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials.

IÉR

EM ÉH

SHOP STOP

Lancel

• • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty

•

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

• • • IKKS

Bally Hackett Omega

L’Occitane

OPÉRA

38 ave de l’Opéra - Paris 2nd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 33 01 68 shop.opera@bodum.com

▼

Bodum, a Danish family owned company that has been delivering innovative designs for more than 70 years. In 1974, Bodum introduces its first French Press® coffeemaker. Nowadays, Bodum continues to extend its collection of wonderfully designed products for every day use, ranging from kitchen and table top articles to small electric appliances..

Opéra Garnier

Fragonard

Mario Dessuti•

BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

BODUM

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE

Uniqlo •

CAUM

RUE

MADELEINE Église de la Madeleine

Galeries Lafayette Coupole

RUE BOUDREA U

GOD

OT D

RUE

VIGN

AUR

ON TR E RU

RUE

Paraboot• • Eres

Andrea

ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet

•

SHOP STOP

LEV

RU E JO UB ER

ATH

• Moda di

ES M

Galeries Lafayette Homme

IBE

DE CA RU ED

’AR

UB EA

40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/

L DE

P R O V EN

VICTOIRE

ADOR

Printemps Beauté-Maison HAVRE- • Guerlain • CAUMARTIN Cerruti

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.

RUE MOG ADOR

Printemps Homme

MOG

GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN

RUE

RU E DU HA VR

Galeries du Diamant •

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 41

LUXURY MAP

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

AB OÉT IE

AVE

EL AB

SAINT-AUGUSTIN

UÉP

NORÉ

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DH AU

O AST

BLV

INE

RUE

SSM

UÉP

BOUR

ROQ

RUE

RUE D

U FAU

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ATHU

DES M

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Lauren • Lancaster Kenzo •Kate spade • •Max Mara

T H U R IN

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• •• •Wempe Ralph•

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• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • Arije J.M. Weston • • Yves Salomon•

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• Césaire Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •

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42 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UA R Y 2018

IRO

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RUE DE RIVOLI

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

MIR

• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES

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Lanvin

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In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

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Yohji Yamamoto

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• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • Capel Bally • •55 Croisette •Burberry •Brunello Cucinelli Roger Vivier • • Hogan U ’A N J O Valentino • • Ermenegildo Zegna RUE D • Heurgon • RUE D’ANJOU Janssens Mettez Djula • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Crockett Dandys • • Chanel • Boucheron &Jones • Tod’s • • Givenchy UIER • Cartier • RUE PASQ Alessi Burberry Hermès • • RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette • Moreau •

CAPEL

SHOP STOP

MIR

Élysée Palace RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

SHOP STOP

26 blvd Malesherbes - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 66 34 21 www.capelstore.fr

79 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 42 65 36 26 www.baccarat.fr

With a 60-year experience, Capel is the French brand specialised in luxury ready-to-wear for big and tall men. The collections are the perfect blend of French style, perfect fitting, comfort and quality for both business and casual occasions. They also carry selected brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Cutter&Buck, Paul&Shark and Pal Zileri. Open MonSat 10:30am-7pm.

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AVENUE DE MARIGNY

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Pierre Cardin

Gringoire Joaillier

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Founded in 1764, Baccarat is the oldest and most famous crystal maker in the world. For over 250 years, Baccarat has been a symbol of excellence in French savoir-faire. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, Baccarat’s Parisian flagship is located in the centre of the luxury shopping neighbourhood and is inspired by a French mansion and a Parisian apartment.

BACCARAT

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Daniel Levy

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FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

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Bucherer

• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch

LUXURY MAP Le Marais

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Village Saint Paul ■

Mémorial de la Shoah

Melodies • • Graphiques • Calligrane

RUE DE LOBAU

ARLEM

PONT MARIE

RUE SAINT-PAUL

RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE

■

RUE DU FAUCONNIER

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Adresse : 46 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 56 04 99 M° Saint-Paul (line1) or Hôtel de Ville (lines 1&11) www.izipizi.com

Mi-Mai •

RU E DU PA

Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay • Aesol ■ Hartford ➞ Les Mille Feuilles • Marionnaud Paris • RUE Emile Lafaurie • DES FRAN Penhaligon’s CS BOURGE • Chanel OIS • • Carhartt • •Esteban Pandora Musée Carnavalet Fragonard • ■ RUE DES Repetto • • FRANCS BO • • Ted Baker URGEOIS Muji • • •Mademoiselle •• •• ➞ Iro • Essentiel Jeanne Michael • • • • • Kors Uniqlo Aubade Marie Sixtine • Lancel • J.M. Weston • • Eres Ekyog •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN UX ea y • t IZIPIZI i T err se • •Maje• • sm d P reu Bimba y Lola u Iris Cantabri e Devernois • C K Fr e Maison Chanel • • • • L Créa Concept Alain Mikli • L’Argenterie • Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault R O SI ER • • • Heschung• S • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE El Ganso • DE JARENTE Cire Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• Trudon • K.Jacques • • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE •Ugg • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • Mode en Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • •Maje BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi Chevignon• • TO IN E AN TIN • RU E SA Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E MX • SAINT-PAUL • RIVOLI E • Finsbury RUE D • Sentou Le BHV Marais À l'Olivier • • IVOLI R E D E

HOTEL DE VILLE

IZIPIZI is a brand of ready-to-wear trendy glasses. They offer everyone a classical and funny accessory, a basic must-have for reading, sun protection and screen protection. Soft and colorful glasses for adults, children and babies.

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Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch El Ganso

56/58 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd 28 rue du Temple - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 74 50 05 www.emilelafaurie.com

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• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO D Cologne French E U SAINT-SÉBASTIEN Sandro• R Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Kenzo • Denicourt DE E Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire U R • •-CL • Saint James Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T APC Calais • S E Stephane U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Weekday• • Customellow • Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Bruno Musée National •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Picasso Marzo • Les Petites • • Le Mont Saint Michel Magnanni • RU E DE S 4 • La Fée Maraboutée FI LS

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Founded in 1992 in Paris, men’s contemporary fashion designer, Emile Lafaurie, is the go-to lifestyle brand for impeccably tailored clothes and contemporary casual gear for today's man. Known for signature pieces like the painter coat, the designer specializes in fine fabrics and a refined color palette.

APC

EMILE LAFAURIE

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T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille

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• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey

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Le Slip Français

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Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.

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106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr

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The Guide

arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti

Take in the Loov Kuktuur exhibition (opposite page) 44 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

arts&attractions

Exhibitions

Marilyn Monroe, on the set of Something’s Got to Give, Hollywood, May 1962, Lawrence Schiller Photo © Lawrence Schiller, courtesy Galerie de l’Instant, Paris; © (R)estart Reality Edward von Lõngus Photo Ruudu Rahumaru

Marilyn There is Marilyn Monroe in a little black dress, on the edge of a swimming pool and eating at a counter in New York City. From the countless photographs of her in existence, La Galerie de l’Instant is presenting an eclectic selection of works by three photographers, Sam Shaw, Lawrence Schiller and Bert Stern. While Shaw’s photographs on the set of the Seven Year Itch are famous, the gallery is presenting his pictures offering another glimpse into the star, notably in 1957 during the first year of her marriage to the playwright Arthur Miller. She looks radiant and serene in the lens as she sits by the fountain by the Plaza Athénée in New York or talks on the telephone in Connecticut. On exhibit as well are some of the lesser known pictures by Stern from the famous last sitting shot just six weeks before her death and there are surprising, rarely seen photographs taken by Schiller on the set of Something’s Got to Give. Showing through to February 13 46 rue de Poitou (3rd), 01 44 54 94 09

Enjoying Estonia An intriguing sauna, sustainable fashion, daring design and street art are all on view at the Cité de la Mode et du Design in an intriguing multi-medium group of exhibitions entitled Loov Kultuur devoted to Estonian art and culture. The dynamic Baltic country is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its independence in 2018 and the exhibition, held indoors and outdoors, offers a fine discovery of Estonian design, art, fashion, street art, photography and animated cinema. The Size Doesn’t Matter design exhibition reveals the aesthetic and functional aspects of Estonian design while a sauna has been installed in the Atrium of the Cité to introduce the visitor to this important aspect of the Estonian lifestyle. Works by the street artist Enward von Lõngus are on display as well. Drawing inspiration from Estonian folklore, they depict characters as they travel through time and come to life through augmented reality in front of the visitors. Showing through to January 21 34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 76 77 25 30 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 45

Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART

Takehiko Yoshikawa MODERN MASTERS: Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano, Yoshikawa...

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 www.tamenaga.com

Olwen Forest

Into the Heart of Art

Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

46 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Works of art by psychiatric patients interned in the 19th century are being presented in an intriguing and highly original exhibition at the Maison de Victor Hugo entitled La Folie en tête, aux racines de l’art brut, (Madness in Mind, the Roots of Outsider Art). Anchored in Victor Hugo’s personal life, both his brother Eugene and his daughter Adèle suffered from mental illness, the show presents art created in another dimension. Hidden, fragile, painted on walls of the asylums or on material that was secretly salvaged, the works of patients would throughout the 19th century draw the attention of the psychiatrists who would in a way become the first collectors of these works, many of which are today found in leading European collections. The show aims to show only the works, which are astounding, of the patients while paying tribute to them as artists and paying tribute as well to the psychiatrists. Showing through to March 18 Tues-Sun 10am-6pm 6 Places des Vosges (4th), 01 42 72 10 16

Le Voyageur français, sans titre, entre 1902 et 1905, peinture à l’eau sur papier à dessin © Collection de l’Art Brut, Lausanne, photo Claude Bornand

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

PIERRE SOULAGES Peinture 130 x 97 cm, 23 avril 1975

62 rue du faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris | T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 | paris@operagallery.com | operagallery.com New York

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arts&attractions

Famous Photographs Women the world over are in the spotlight at the Polka Galerie, which is juxtaposing the works of two major photographers, Sebastião Salgado and Marc Riboud, for its 10th anniversary show. From women demonstrating in Washington D.C. and Paris to women working in Rajasthan, the show entitled Femmes du Monde (Women of the World) offers a panorama of women around the world immortalised by the two photographers. The show brings together 34 photographs by Salgado taken over the course of 45 years alongside a selection of large format and vintage prints by the late Marc Riboud, whose career spanned six decades. Some of the photographs on display have left their mark on history, notably Riboud’s picture of Jan Rose Kasmir holding a flower in front of soldiers with bayonets in Washington D.C. during a demonstration against the war in Vietnam. Showing through to January 20 Cour de Venise, 12 rue Saint-Gilles (3rd), 01 76 21 41 30

Peru of the Past They were the Cupisnique, the Moche, the Chimú, the Lambayeque, they were the ancient civilisations that evolved on the northern Pacific coast of Peru. The Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac, in an exhibition entitled Peru before the Incas, is showcasing these peoples who over 1500 years ago set down the foundations of pre-Hispanic civilisation. The exhibition takes a long look at the organisation of power in these ancient societies, which centred on the divinities, the kings, the elite classes, the urban lords, the warriors, the priests and the priestesses. The show brings together a spectacular selection of some 300 works of ceramics, sculptures, and jewels in gold, silver and copper, emblems, and personal ornaments. The beauty and sophisticated techniques used in the works reveal the lustre and wealth of these ancient civilizations as well as the major influences that these pre-Incan societies had on subsequent civilisations. Showing through to April 1 37 quai Branly (7th), 01 56 61 70 00 48 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Acre, Brazil, 2016 Photo © Marc Riboud, courtesy Polka Galerie; Boucle d’oreille représentant un sacrificateur tenant une tête coupée : PaceB-F4-00058caT. 108 © musée du quai Branly - Jacques Chirac, photo Eduardo Hirose Mio © Lima, San José de Moro Archeaological Program – PUCP, Ministère de la Culture du Pérou

Exhibitions

arts&attractions

Exhibitions

Musée de La Toile de Jouy © Lionel Roy DR 2017; Red, Yellow and black streak, Georgia O’Keeffe, 1924 huile sur toile, L 101,3 cm, l 81,3 cm © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI/Philippe Migeat/Dist. RMN-GP

Love Story Le Musée de la Toile de Jouy, devoted to the famous fabric of the same name is presenting an exhibition on love showcasing pieces in the great classic fabrics of the house. Entitled Un peu, beaucoup, à la folie... l’Amour dans les toiles de Jouy (A little, a lot, madly... Love in the Fabrics of Jouy), the exhibition shows love in all of its facets, light-hearted, tragic, voluptuous, marital from the middle of the 18th century to the present. La Toile de Jouy fabrics have been on the horizon since 1760 when Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf developed a method for printing on copper plates in his fabric manufacture in Jouy-enJosas, a few kilometres from Versailles. To date some 30,000 patterns have emerged from the drawing tables at Jouy-en-Josas. Showing through to February 14 Château de l’Eglantine 54 rue Charles de Gaulle, 78350 Jouy-en-Josas, 01 39 56 48 64

Celebrating Colour An exhibition devoted to the world of colour is being played out at Sèvres, the Musée National de Céramique, France’s National Ceramic Museum. Entitled The Experience of Colour, the show takes a look at the fundamental question of the artist’s perception of colours inviting the visitor into an exploration of the world of hues. Colours largely contributed to the identity of the Sèvres porcelain manufacture, which is in the same institution, known as the Cite de la Céramique, as the museum, where since 1740 some 1000 colours have been created including celestial blue, Sèvres blue and Pompadour pink. The show brings together some 400 works juxtaposing pieces in ceramics with works by 20th century artists and designers regarded as major figures in the realm of colour including Sheila Hicks, Yves Klein and Sonia Delaunay. The Experience of Colour is an exhibition marking the 40th anniversary of the Pompidou Centre, which has loaned some 50 works from its collections for the show. Showing through to April 2 2 Place de la Manufacture, 92310 Sèvres, 01 46 29 22 00 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 49

arts&attractions

Discovering the Conciergerie

he Conciergerie remains one of the most intriguing monuments in Paris all the while offering a fascinating interactive journey into the Middle Ages and the days of the French Revolution through a tactile tablet. Located on the banks of the Seine on the Ile de la Cité, it was part of the complex of the palace that was the residence of the medieval kings of France and many centuries later it would be the site of the tribunal and prison during the French Revolution. It takes its name from the Concierge, a person of high rank in the kingdom of France who was appointed by the king to maintain order. Today, the structure, a witness to the history of France, is part of the network of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux (The Centre of French National Monuments) and is open to the public. This superb Gothic palace housed the kings of France until the end of the 14th century and today the Salle des Gardes (Guards Room) and the Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Soldiers) built during the reign of Philip the Fair remain from the medieval period as do the 14th century kitchens built under King John the Good. When the kings of France left it to settle into the Louvre and Vincennes, it took on a judicial role and part of the palace was converted into prison cells and it would become a high seat of power and justice during the Ancien Régime. At the French Revolution it would become one of the main places of detention and housed the Revolutionary court. Its most famous prisoner was Marie-Antoinette and a large number of exceptional objects relative to the queen are on display including those that belonged to her such as the shirt she wore during her imprisonment and her seditious walking sticks, a discrete sign of loyalty to the monarchy. Although the monument is largely empty, a digital tablet called the HistoPad is available to rent in six languages for the visit plunging the visitor into the heart of the medieval palace and the revolutionary prison 50 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

through meticulous, detailed 360° reconstitutions of various periods in the monument’s history. The HistoPad is filled with superb images and plenty of information on architecture, objects and lifestyle and even a treasure hunt. In the restored former kitchens, for example, you can vision through the device roasts turning on spits or arrays of medieval spices. It also offers a complete reconstitution of the cell of Marie-Antoinette. Open daily from 9.30am to 6pm, times may vary though so do please check the website before your visit. Last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80 www.paris-conciergerie.fr

Conciergerie Photo © Caroline Rose - Centre des Monuments Nationaux -Photo de Presse.; Conciergerie, Salle des Gens d’Armes Photo © Philippe Berthé - Centre des Monuments Nationaux -Photo de Presse

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arts&attractions Monuments

Sainte-Chapelle

The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Although the monument is empty, a HistoPad can be rented to vision detailed 360° reconstitutions. Daily 9:30am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 9€. Combined ticket with the Sainte-Chapelle 15€. Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the 52 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (10-25€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from 12 to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm weekdays; OctMarch 10am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun; Jul-Aug until 11 pm on Fri & Sat. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing. An on-site interactive display or the application Jefile lets you envisage the wait for visiting the towers and to reserve your time. 10€. www.tours-notre-dame-de-paris.fr 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10 . M° Cité

PALAIS GARNIER-OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Through to March 3 Patrice Chéreau, this exhibition showcases the creative process of the opera and theatre director. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:00am and 2:30pm (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra

PANTHEON An 18th-century monument combining Greek and Gothic architecture, where Voltaire, Rousseau, Marie Curie and other notables are buried. Through to March 4 Marie Curie, une femme au Panthéon, an exhibition devoted to the illustrious scientist, Marie Curie. Jan-March & Oct-Dec 10am-6pm; Apr-Sept 10am-6:30pm, last tickets 45 minutes before closing. 9€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.paris-pantheon.fr 6 pl du Panthéon (5th), 01 44 32 18 00. M° Cardinal-Lemoine

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view

Sainte-Chapelle iStock 2017 © Guy Carpenter photo

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

La Villa Savoye, Oeuvre de Le Corbusier © FLC / Adagp © Jean-Christophe Ballot / Centre des Monuments Nationaux -Photo de Presse

from the Sacré Coeur is breath-taking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers

SAINTE-CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Jan-March 9am-5pm; Apr-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-Dec 9am-5pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time.10€. Combined ticket with La Conciergerie 15€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. www.sainte-chapelle.fr 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

THE TUILERIES GARDEN This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Place de la Concorde (1st). M° Concorde

La Villa Savoye Located west of Paris in the town of Poissy, La Villa Savoye was designed and built by the Swiss-born architect Charles-Edouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier, a pioneer of modern architecture. The iconic building in reinforced concrete with its stilts, roof garden, open plan design, horizontal windows and free design of its facade was the last in Le Corbusier’s white villa cycle. A historic monument since 1964, La Villa Savoye is managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, last tickets 20 minutes before closing time. 8€. www.villa-savoye.fr 82 rue de Villiers, 78300 Poissy, 01 39 65 01 06 RER A to Poissy station then bus 50 to La Coudraie, stop at Villa Savoye

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arts&attractions

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris AreAs & MArkets Paris Flea Market

Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt)

Carré Rive Gauche

This group of antique dealers and art galleries in the 6th and 7th arrondissements presents fine works, special exhibitions and exceptional pieces throughout the year. Many of the galleries are specialised in the decorative arts while the venues offer visitors a journey into 7,000 years of art history. Located on the Left Bank on and around the Quai Voltaire, rue de l’Université, rue du Bac, rue de Verneuil, rue de Lille, rue de Beaune and rue des Saints-Pères (7th)

Art gAlleries Galerie Bartoux Elysées

A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Olwen Forest

Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt

Galerie Tamenaga

Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Paris Flea Market | Areas & Markets 54 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Opera Gallery

Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde

AttrActions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

Ballon de Paris

Fly over Paris in a hot air balloon that also measures the level of pollution in the atmosphere. The balloon can fly up to 150 metres into the Parisian sky. Flights are dependent upon the weather so it is preferable to call ahead on the day. Daily, 9am to the closing time of the Parc André Citroën where the balloon is located. 2 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.44.26.20.00. M° Javel

Canal Saint-Martin

This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République

Catacombes de Paris

The catacombs of Paris house the remains of several million Parisians whose bones were transferred to these underground quarries from Parisian cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. The visit is not recommended for pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory problems or suffering from claustrophobia and children under 14 must be accompanied by adults. The 2 km one-way visit ends at 21bis ave René Coty (14th). Tues-Sun 10am-8:30pm. 1 ave du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy (place Denfert-Rochereau) (14th), 01.43.22.47.63. M° Denfert-Rochereau

Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie

Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7

yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette

Disneyland Paris With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy

Flight Experience Paris You can pilot a Boeing 737 in a state of the art flight simulator. Under the guidance of a qualified instructor, you can take off, climb, cruise and land. You can choose your route and flying time from several different flight packages. 21 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.45.86.04.04. M° Quai de la Gare

Grande Arche This stunning monument listed as 20th century heritage is situated in the heart of the business district, La Défense. Its rooftop offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city and it houses exhibition spaces devoted to photojournalism exhibitions on the 35th floor. A restaurant and a sandwich shop are all on the agenda. Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 1 parvis de la Défense, 92044 Paris La Défense, 01.40.90.52.20. M° La Défense Grande Arche

Le Manoir de Paris The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 18 rue de Paradis (10th), M° Château d’Eau

Paris Story A fun and educational way to discover the city of Paris through an exceptional audiovisual presentation. Daily 10am-6pm, projection every hour on the hour. 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01.42.66.62.06. M° Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin

Parc Zoologique de Paris This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural environments some 1,000 animals, birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish representing 180 species. Entrance located at the corner of the ave Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25. M° Château de Vincennes then 46 bus to zoo.

Flight exPerience Paris | Attractions

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Pavillons de Bercy Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion

boAt cruises Bateaux Parisiens Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro

Bateaux-Mouches The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

Batobus A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 01.76.64.79.12

Vedettes du Pont Neuf These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf

River Limousine Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37

Vedettes de Paris Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars

dAy trips Château de Fontainebleau A residence of the French kings from the 12 to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes th

Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.

Château de Versailles

Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open Tue-Sun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche

Château et Domaine de Chantilly

North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.

Château de Vaux le Vicomte

This unique estate with its 17 century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90 th

Giverny

Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21

Musée National du Château de Malmaison

This delightful 17th century castle on the outskirts of Paris was the rural home of Josephine and Napoleon Bonaparte. 10am-12:30pm/13:30pm5:45pm/Until 6:15pm Sat & Sun. Closed Tues. Ave du château de Malmaison, 01.41.29.05.55. Metro or RER to la Défense then bus 258 to the stop Château

gArdens Jardin des Tuileries

This vast park filled with peaceful wide alleyways for strolling and an octagonal water basin offers a place for a promenade between the Pyramide du Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. Sculptures by Maillol, Rodin, Dubuffet and Louise Bourgeois are among the jewels set in these refreshing gardens. Jardin des Tuileries (1st), M° Concorde

Bateaux-Mouches | Boat Cruises

Jardin du Luxembourg

These lovely gardens were built upon the initiative of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612. They are composed of both English and French gardens, a large pond an orchard of old vintage fruit trees and an apiary. Activities for adults include chess, tennis and remote control boats while children can a puppet theatre, rides and slides. Rue de Médicis - Rue de Vaugirard (6th), M° Odéon

guided tours L’Open Tour Paris

Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra

Paris Authentic

This is a unique Parisian concept for personal sightseeing tours and excursions in traditional French 2cv cars. Be picked up anywhere in Paris and the Parisian drivers of Paris Authentic take you for an unusual discovery of their city. Enjoy Paris by day or night, champagne in Montmartre, historic landmarks, luxurious places, secret neighbourhoods, tailor-made tours. 06.64.50.44.19

Paris City Vision

City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries

Retro Tour

Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com

MuseuMs & foundAtions Centre Georges Pompidou

France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

The Palais de Chaillot now houses the Museum collection of French Monuments as part of the permanent collection in the Pavillon de Tête, while the temporary exhibits are housed in the left wing of the Pavillon d’About. The museum is composed of three Galeries: Galerie des Moulages, Galerie des

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arts&attractions Address Book

Peintures and Galeries d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine. Mon, Wed, Fri 12pm - 8pm, Thur 12pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm. Palais de Chaillot, 1 Place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.58.51.52.00. M° Trocadéro

Espace Dali

In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers

Located in a beautiful private mansion, the museum takes the visitor on a historical and sensorial quest. The visit is highly interactive with videos and devices used to try out the fragrances and scents found along the way which include many of the raw materials used in perfume making. Tues-Sun 10:30am-7pm. 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.25.44. M° Miromesnil

Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design

A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail

This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Mona Bismarck American Center

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Institut du Monde Arabe

Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, a cultural center and museum of Arab and Islamic arts. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Library: Tues-Sat 1pm-8pm. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01.40.51.38.38. M° Jussieu

La Cinémathèque Française - Musée du Cinéma

In a wonderful Frank Gehry-designed building, this is a cinema museum with screening rooms for international film classics, all shown in their original language. The permanent collection takes a look at cinema and its history through an impressive collection of films, objects, archives, cameras and costumes. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01.71.19.33.33. M° Bercy

La Maison de Victor Hugo

This museum located in a splendid private mansion on the Place des Vosges is devoted to the French writer, statesman and artist Victor Hugo who once lived there. The museum’s collections include drawings by Victor Hugo, manuscripts, statues and paintings as well as photographs and furnishings. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 6 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.72.10.16. M° Saint-Paul

Le Grand Musée du Parfum

The world of perfume unfolds in this museum devoted to perfume and the art of perfume making, one of France’s leading industries.

The center is positioned to be the premier venue for American art and artists in the cultural capital of Europe – Paris. Its mission is to engage international audiences in a compelling dialogue with American culture of the 20th and 21st centuries. 34 ave de New York (16th), see the website for opening hours: www.monabismarck.org

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme

A beautiful museum of Jewish art and history in a 17th century mansion. Mon-Fri 11am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, 71 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.53.01.86.60. M° Hôtel de Ville

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides

This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne

Musée Cernuschi

The beautifully appointed 19th century private mansion which belonged to the Italian patriot Henri Cernuschi is home to the city’s museum devoted to the arts of Asia. The permanent collections are housed on the first floor while the ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 7 ave Vélasquez (8th), 01.53.96.21.50. M° Monceau

Musée Cognacq-Jay

This museum of the city of Paris is devoted mainly to art of the 18th century with the exception of a major work by Rembrandt. Paintings by Canaletto, Tiepolo, Boucher, Fragonard and sculptures by Houdon and Lemoyne along with period furniture, Saxe porcelain and objects worked in silver are housed in a mansion listed as a historic monument located in the Marais. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 rue Elzévir (3rd), 01.40.27.07.21. M° Saint-Paul

Musée Grévin

A semi-private museum with a fabulous collection of decorative arts-furniture, housewares, ceramics and porcelain, paintings and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle Ages to 21st century design, including a dozen sumptuously furnished period rooms. Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu until 9pm. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

A wax museum displaying more than 300 life-sized historical and modern French and international figures. The restored Palais des Mirages plunges the visitor into a giant, mirrored kaleidoscope. Mon-Fri 10am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun, bank and school holidays 10am-7pm. 10 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.85.05. M° Grands Boulevards

Musée des Arts et Métiers

Musée Guimet

A marvelous display of some 3,000 scientific and technological discoveries and inventions through the centuries, including Pascal’s 1642 calculator and Foucault’s 1855 pendulum. TueSun 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am- 9:30 pm. 60 rue Réaumur (3rd), 01.53.01.82.00. M° Arts et Métiers

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

The city’s modern art museum offers a permanent collection covering the entire 20th century. TueSun 10am-6 pm. 11 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.53.67.40.00. M° Alma-Marceau/Trocadéro

Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace

Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes, 1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-

centre georges PoMPidou | Museums & Fondations 56 W HE RE Pa r i s I dec E M B E R 2017

Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de Paris-Le Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.

This museum houses one of the most extensive collections of Asian art in Europe, displaying over 4,000 works of art from the continent’s myriad cultures and civilisations, spanning five millennia. Daily 10am-6pm, last entrance at 5:30pm, closed Tues. 6 Place d’Iéna (16th), 01.56.52.53.00. M° Iéna/Boissière

Musée en Herbe

A superb museum for children (and adults, too) of interactive exhibits and workshops. The boutique, in a fairy tale setting, is filled with books, games and educational toys for all age groups. Opened everyday 10am-7pm. 21 rue Herold (1st), 01.40.67.97.66. M° Palais Royal

Musée de l’Homme

The national anthropological museum houses

Musée des arts et Métiers | Museums & Fondations

arts&attractions

Address Book

remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro

Musée Jacquemart-André

The mansion of 19th century magnate Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, whose stunning collection of furniture and art includes an Italian section with works by Mantegna, Uccello and Botticelli. Daily 10am-6pm, Mon & Sat until 9:30pm (for temporary exhibitions only). 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01.45.62.11.59. M° Miromesnil

Musée du Louvre

One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

Musée de la Magie

A fantasy world awaits in this space devoted to magic. Beneath 16th century vaulted cellars are optical illusions, magic art and more. The visit winds up with a superb magic show. Wed, Sat, Sun and school holidays. 2pm-7pm. 11 rue Saint Paul (4th), 01.42.72.13.26. M° Saint-Paul

Musée de Montmartre and Jardins Renoir

The museum on the hill was founded in 1960 and today houses a permanent collection that boasts works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani and Utrillo. The charming museum is also surrounded by three gardens dedicated to Auguste Renoir, rendering the museum even more exceptional. Open daily from 10am to 6pm. 12-14 rue Cortot (18th), 01.49.25.89. 39. M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt

Musée du Parfum - Fragonard

Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 3-5 square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet (9th) , 01.40.06.10.09. M° Opéra

Musée Marmottan Monet

Museum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Palais Galliera

A natural history museum famed for its Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, a stunning display of thousands of animal species. Other galleries house the rich collections of paleontology, comparative anatomy, mineralogy and geology. The galleries and exhibition halls are surrounded by the botanical gardens of Paris and one of the oldest zoological gardens in the world, the Ménagerie. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Sat late night until 8 pm. Jardin des Plantes, 36 rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (5th), 01.40.79.54.79. M° Censier-Daubenton/Austerlitz

Formerly the 19th century Palais de la Duchesse de Galliera, this is the city’s fashion museum. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 10 ave Pierre 1er de Serbie (16th), 01.56.52.86.00. M° léna/Alma-Marceau

Musée de l’Orangerie In the heart of Paris in the Tuileries Garden this completely renovated museum allows the visitor to discover the spectacular ensemble of Monet’s Water Lilies in natural lighting as well as the 144 works of art in the Walter-Guillaume Collection (including Renoir, Cézanne, Modigliani, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, Soutine). Wed-Mon 9am- 6pm. Jardin des Tuileries, entrance Place de la Concorde (1st), 01.44.77.80.07. M° Concorde

Musée d’Orsay A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau

Musée Picasso A major collection of Picasso’s works - paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics - displayed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion in the trendy Marais district. Tues-Fri 11:30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9:30am-6pm, late night until 9pm, the third Friday of the month. 5 rue Thorigny (3rd), 01.42.71.25.21. M° Saint-Sébastien - Froissart

Musée Rodin Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm, late night Wed until 9pm. Garden closes at 5pm. 79 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.44.18.61.10. M° Varenne

Musée du Vin

A beautiful and delightful museum in a private mansion housing the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs until 8pm. 2 rue Louis Boilly (16th), 01.44.96.50.33. M° La Muette

Opened in 1984, the Wine Museum is a cultural center exhibiting the rich and varied collections of French wine housed in one of Paris’ oldest limestone quarries. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. 5 Square Charles Dickens (16th), 01.45.25.70.89. M° Passy

Musée de l’hoMMe | Museums & Fondations

Palais de la Découverte This museum and cultural centre geared for both children and adults is devoted to the sciences and hosts temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent spaces devoted to math, physics and other sciences. Interactive displays, workshops and a planetarium are all on the agenda.Tues-Sat 9:30am to 6pm. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01.56.43.20.20. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Palais de Tokyo Built in 1937 as the French Modern Art Museum, the Palais is known today as the site of contemporary creation, dedicated to opening the minds of all generations. This is the only museum in Paris to be open until midnight and almost all events are open to the public. From 12 noon to 12 midnight every day except Tuesday. 13 ave du Président Wilson(16th),01.47.23.54.01. M° Iéna

Petit Palais The city’s fine arts museum, in a beautifully renovated 1900 building. The extensive permanent collection offers a panorama of art from antiquity to the early 20th century. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, late night Thurs until 8pm. Ave Winston Churchill (8th), 01.53.43.40.00. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau

Philharmonie de Paris - Cité de la Musique This cultural venue in eastern Paris dedicated to music houses concert halls, exhibition spaces, rehearsal rooms and educational spaces for workshops and conferences. Tues-Fri 12pm-6pm/ Sat & Sun 10am to 6pm. 221 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.44. 84.44.84. M° Porte de Pantin

11 Conti - Monnaie de Paris This beautiful building on the Seine was home to the French mint. Today craftsmen continue to fashion medals, official decorations and collector’s coins. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. 11 Quai de Conti (6th), 01.40.46.56.66. M° Pont Neuf

prActicAl inforMAtion Le Kiosque Théâtre Offers tickets for shows on the same day at half price. Seats are available for most shows in theatres, café-théâtres and prestigious cabarets. Tues-Sat 12:30pm-8pm/ Sun12:30pm-4pm. Kiosque Madeleine: facing 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th). M° Madeleine; Kiosque Montparnasse: on the esplanade between the Tower and the Gare Montparnasse. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Musée de la Magie | Museums & Fondations w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

The Guide

dining

French Fare | Fashionable Tables | Bistros | Wine | Contemporary Cuisine

Discover chef Alex Koganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuisine at Les Foodies (page 61)

58 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2018

dining

Restaurants

Contemporary French Fare With the opening of Comice, there’s a seriously excellent new restaurant with thrillingly subtle and discreetly inventive cooking in the 16th arrondissement (western Paris), which is a pleasant walk or a short cab ride from many of the city’s best beds. Though this convenience is welcome, bien sûr, the real reasons not to miss a meal at this charming table begin with the charming hospitality of Winnipeg native Etheliya Hananova, who also serves as the restaurant’s outstanding sommelier, the sleek beauty of the dining room with an open kitchen at its head, rich jewel-tone colours and a pair of beautiful paintings of trees by the Berlin-based Canadian painter Peter Hoffer. Then there’s the cooking of Noam Gedalof, who previously worked at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in California and in Montreal before doing a stint at Le Sergent Recruteur on the Ile Saint-Louis. It’s beautifully plated, stunningly light, almost luminous really, and filled with delicate flavours that create an intriguing percussion on the palate. Stopping by recently with a friend, we began with scallop carpaccio under a thatch of fronds and petals in a light vinaigrette spiked by Japanese citrus and an exquisite parfait-like foie gras, sampled the roasted cauliflower with a Grenobloise garnish, and the homemade tagliatelle with shaved black truffle. Main courses were outstanding as well, including a filet of Corsican beef with sweet potato-filled ravioli and a stunningly succulent guinea hen with quince, sage-leaf beignets, and buttery brioche toast. We didn’t know that we could manage dessert after such a lavish feast, but pastry chef Catherine Takaya’s delicate yuzu dessert was as delicious as it was pretty. This is an excellent address for vegetarians as well. – Alexander Lobrano Comice 31 ave de Versailles (16th), 01 42 15 55 70

An Old Favourite When Michelin three-star chef Michel Rostang opened Le Flaubert thirty years ago, it was an immediate hit, because it ushered in a new era of affordable, casual, reasonably priced dining in Paris. What everyone flocked here for was an experience of Rostang’s talent applied to bistro cooking and the charm of a dining room created from an old-fashioned epicerie (supermarket) with white marble counters and decorated with vintage faience and other flea market finds. Returning recently after a long absence, it was a pleasure to find that this much-loved address is not only better than ever but easily one of the best bistros in Paris. Young chef Romain Bréchignac, 30, is now in the kitchen, and he serves up a shrewd and inventive take on traditional French bistro cooking with a signature all his own. To wit, even though he’s a very gifted traditionalist, Bréchignac’s cooking is light, flavourful and amusingly off-centre. Dining with a friend we began with the excellent homemade foie gras and a tartare of croaker with mussels, glasswort and crispy buckwheat, and continued with the succulent cod poached in olive oil and served on a bed of Borlotti beans and a fricassee of pork with Taggiasche olives and baby potatoes. Desserts were excellent, too, including the chocolate pots de crème (custard) and poached pear. Service directed by the delightful maitresse d’hôtel Laetitia was impeccable, and the wine list is very good, too. – A.L. Le Flaubert 10 rue Gustave Flaubert (17th), 01 42 67 05 81 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 59

dining

Restaurants

Fashionable Fare

With Paris Fashion Week taking over the city this month with the men’s collections starting on the 17th followed by the couture collections on the 22nd, one thing is for certain, models, designers and fashion editors will be gracefully descending upon the fashion capital and won’t be flocking to only the best shows of the fashion calendar but also to the best restaurants in town. And where do the beautiful people go to for dinner and to be spotted?

By Sandra Iskander

One of the most popular eateries amongst the fashion crowd is Hotel Costes. On the chic rue Saint-Honoré, the sombrely inviting hotel features a baroque patio complete with elegant statues overlooking the diners. Dishes on the menu include a light green bean salad and steak tartare.

Conveniently located in the 8th arrondissement, just off Rue Saint-Honoré, Foucade specialises in gluten free cuisine with only vegetarian and vegan dishes on the menu. Try the Caesar salad with smoked tofu and a vegan sauce or the vegetarian hotdog served in a brioche-like gluten-free bun.

Hotel Costes 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 44 50 00

Foucade 17 rue Duphot (1st), 01 42 36 11 81

Another Costes favourite is L’Avenue. Located on Avenue Montaigne facing the iconic Dior boutique, this café/restaurant is very popular with fashion editors and celebrities who lunch here after perusing the new collections in the neighbouring upmarket boutiques. The menu here doesn’t stray from the tried-and-tested Costes menu of simple French fare with the people watching the perfect side dish.

The 10th arrondissement is fast becoming the fashion world’s go-to for the coolest restaurants and true to form for fashionable addresses most of these places are off-the-beaten track, including the very popular Hôtel Grand Amour. This is where designers, fashion editors and artists have made it their cocktail rendezvous during Paris Fashion Week and with the arrival of new chef Guillaume Monnet, it has become even more popular for dinner. Try the miso glazed roasted cauliflower or the tuna tartare served with beetroot and seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil.

L’Avenue 41 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 40 70 14 91 Since its reopening last summer, the Hôtel de Crillon has seen a revolving door of supermodels and its authentic Parisian brasserie offers an intimate address for discreet power breakfasts to keep everyone fuelled for running to and from shows all day. The Brasserie d’Aumont offers authentic French cuisine so buttery croissants and pain au chocolat are on the menu, however, there are also lighter options with egg white omelettes and green juices on the menu. Brasserie d’Aumont 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), 01 44 71 15 15 60 W H E R E Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

Hôtel Grand Amour 18 rue de la Fidélité (10th), 01 44 16 03 30 An evening out in the Marais neighbourhood during Fashion Week is as natural as seeing Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid on the runway and one of the best restaurants to discover is Les Foodies. Chef Alex Kogan is at the helm, creating Mediterranean dishes with Asian influences for this art deco neobistro. Kogan changes his menu regularly with recent offerings that included grilled octopus served with sweet papaya, salty capers and seasoned with zesty lime, and grilled calamari mixed in with rice noodles,

Opposite page: The Rivié bar at The Hoxton. This page (clockwise from top): The Brasserie d’Aumont, Les Grands Verres, the Caesar salad at Foucade and the Hôtel Grand Amour

sweet peas and creamy feta giving an idea of how the chef perfectly harmonises different flavours from different corners of the world. His talents don’t stop at his savoury dishes either with a dessert menu that includes a tiramisu prettily presented in a pot plant complete with edible flowers. Les Foodies 6 Square Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 09 82 42 73 09

The recently opened Les Grands Verres restaurant and bar in the Palais de Tokyo is fast becoming the city’s go-to hotspot for socialites, fashionistas, journalists and everyone else in between. What makes this place so popular is the friendly service, the great cocktails and the Middle-Eastern influences found in chef Preston Miller’s dishes. The menu changes on a regular basis but can include dishes such as the Fattoush salad made with a medley of vegetables seasoned with Lebanese herbs, and pasta tossed in a hazelnut butter sauce and mushrooms. Les Grands Verres 13 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01 85 53 03 61 In between shows if you’re looking for a great spot that is open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, head to Le Fumoir. Just off Rue de Rivoli, a stone’s throw away from the Louvre, this Parisian institution is back on the map thanks to chef Henrik Andersson’s seasonal menu. Dishes include an octopus salad served with cashew nuts and cream cheese, and a barley risotto with wild mushrooms, sage and shavings of Parmesan cheese. Le Fumoir also serves Sunday brunch with Bloody Marys and champagne mimosas on-hand to celebrate F Week. Le Fumoir 6 rue de l’Amiral Coligny (1st), 01 42 92 00 24 Rivié restaurant and bar is the city’s latest addition to the socialite’s little black book. On the ground floor of the recently opened The Hoxton hotel, the restaurant is sprawled over a large space incorporating a cool bar, dining area, a lounge area and an outdoor dining area. With a New York vibe, Rivié serves up contemporary dishes and comfort food such as mac and cheese, though the cocktails are the real crowd pleasers. Rivié 30 rue du Sentier (2nd), 01 85 65 75 01

dining Wine

Very Vintage There are wines and there are the great and memorable wines, the wines that transport, the vintage wines, the premiers crus or the grand crus, which literally means great growth but implies a wine of the most superior grade. While great wines are produced throughout the land, Burgundy and Bordeaux instantly come to mind.

By Patricia Valicenti

Meanwhile, Bordeaux brings to mind the great premier grands crus, grand crus or premiers crus of Médoc, Graves, Pomerol, Sauternes and those of the beautiful medieval town of SaintEmilion. These five regions are referred to as Districts of Bordeaux and produce what can be regarded as simply the finest in the land. Médoc, Graves, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol are noteworthy for their reds and Sauternes for its unctuous, unparalleled sweet wines, which are white, though actually golden in colour. A fine place in Paris to find exceptional wines and also to taste them is Vintage&Cie, which proffers grands crus and old vintages while specialising in wines that are rare. The venue was created in 2014 by Louis Duquesne, who over the years put together a collection of rare wines that he wants to share and transmit. Vintage&Cie carries exceptional wines like Château Mouton Rothschild 1890, Château Margaux 1900, and Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage 1961. Among the host of grand crus on

62 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

offer are a Maison Leroy Chambertin Grand Cru and a Domaine François Ravenau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur. Vintage&Cie also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit. A stone staircase takes guests down to the inviting, clublike tasting room in the wine cellar, which can be privatised for up to 10 guests when seated or 20 if standing. It offers a fine place to discover and share wines with each tasting made to measure. The house also offers advice for constituting a wine cellar and private space in its own cellars to store your fine wines in optimal and secure conditions with a storage capacity ranging from 15 to 100 bottles. Vintage&Cie 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 40 70 98 43 Inside Vintage&Cie (above) and the vineyard and church in Saint-Emilion (below)

he Burgundies of the Côte de Nuits are among the most celebrated wines produced anywhere in the world like the mythical Romanée-Conti, a robust red. Other great wines produced in the region include Le Chambertin and Le Musigny often emanating from tiny vineyards of only two or three rows. The Côte de Beaune is named for its main town Beaune where a large part of the Burgundian wine trade is centred. The region’s most famous wines are its whites like the great dry Montrachet and the earthy Meursaults. Well-known reds include Volnay, Pommard and Santenay. Ranked as a Burgundy although it lies a number of kilometres west of the main Burgundy area, Chablis remains nonetheless one of the great white wines of France and some of the grands crus Chablis can rival the major whites of the Côte de Beaune.

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

A new beginning at The Kube Hotel Paris The world as we know it is dead. The city has become hostile, the horizon full of danger, but from the chaos was born a shelter, APRES, a place full of surprises in which you can protect yourself from the urban jungle. In a postapocalyptic universe, nature takes back its rights. APRES will become your new refuge, always welcoming you with: - A French restaurant full to the brim with flavours from yesteryear to share with your fellow survivors - A DJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s place to dance with a system integrated into the floor-to-ceiling interior design - A living, vegetalised terrace spreading over 300m2 - An Ice Bar where time has stopped at -20Â°C - A retro cocktail bar - Workshops and co-working spaces ...All to regain strength, to rest, to escape or to dance the night away. A new world awaits you on the ground floor of the Kube Hotel Paris... The world of APRES.

APRES, The Restaurant of the Kube Hotel Paris 1 Passage Ruelle, Paris 18th 01 42 05 20 00 www.kubehotel-paris.com

dining

Restaurants

A Rebooted Bistro Fans of Baudelaire and rocker Jim Morrison have long made pilgrimages to Vins des Pyrénées because both of them drank there. Now, after a handsome renovation that pulled off the neat trick of respecting its original moody atmosphere while making it both modern and stylish, it’s also become a great place for casual dining. This savvy reboot is the work of owner actor Florian Cadiou, who knows the Marais well-enough to have scored a bull’s eye with a comfort food menu that runs to temptations like a Croque Monsieur made with truffled Gouda cheese or squid stuffed with piquillo peppers, fennel and chorizo. The chef here is Jimmy Reffet, who previously cooked at Saturne and Terroirs d’Avenir, and among his witty modern French dishes, the two starters not to miss are the croquettes of roast lamb with aioli and the marinated leeks with crushed hazelnuts and a sauce ravigote. Among the mains, aside from that luscious Croque Monsieur, the spelt risotto made with Savagnin wine, mushrooms and Parmesan and the yellow pollack with celery, olives and pine nuts with a lime sabayon are delicious. Finish up with brioche perdu (like French toast but made with brioche) with salted caramel sauce and whipped cream, and then head upstairs to the delightful bar and have a night cap cocktail made by Adèle Fardeau, a talented mixologist who formerly worked at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. – A.L. Vins des Pyrénées 25 rue Beautrellis (4th), 01 42 72 64 94

The celebrated old brasserie, Le Wepler, overlooking the animated Place de Clichy has been given a delightful new lease on life after being purchased by the Joulie group of brasseries in Paris, an outfit that’s well-known for its excellent quality, great hospitality and fair prices. It still has a charmingly retro atmosphere, however, and probably isn’t too different today than it was when the American writer Henry Miller sat here for long hours over a coffee writing his novel Quiet Days in Clichy in the 1930s. Open daily until 12.30am, it still attracts an intriguingly diverse clientele that’s a mix of arty locals, well-heeled bourgeois couples, and well-advised travellers. What everyone loves here is the first-rate selection of oysters and other shellfish from the stand out front, but for those who aren’t fans of the bivalves, there’s a terrific choice of starters, including avocado tartare garnished with shrimp, goat cheese beignets, escargots and a very good traditional Parisian onion soup. Dining here with friends on a rainy Sunday night, half of us started with oysters and the other two opted for the excellent gravlax and roasted marrow bones with a mushroom persillade (mushrooms, garlic and parsley). Our main courses were excellent, too, including sole meunière, scallops with watercress purée and spelt, a perfectly seasoned steak tartare and a classic choucroute garni, that ancient Alsatian winter beater of sauerkraut garnished with sausages and various cuts of pork. The desserts we chose as a final indulgence included a fine chocolate mousse, Black Forest cake with sour cherries, crêpes Suzette flambéed with Grand Marnier and a plump baba au rhum doused with Saint James rum. From the excellent white list, we began with a white Côtes du Rhône Belleruche Chapoutier and then drank Pouilly Fumé, Petit Chablis and Saint-Emilion by the glass with our mains. – A.L. Le Wepler 14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01 45 22 53 24 64 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

Traditional Bistro Dining

Address Book

dining

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris dining on the seine Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French

(€€€)

Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau

Bateaux Parisiens - Classic French (€€€)

Enjoy a three or four course lunch or dinner on board these boats as they take you on a tour of Paris on the Seine. The menus change with the seasons. The lunch menu can include chilled green asparagus with mozzarella and for a main free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Dinner choices can include smoked salmon to start and as a main filet of sea bass. Reservations required. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 01.76.64.14.45. M° Trocadéro

Yachts de Paris - Classic French (€€€€€)

The most luxurious of all the river boats serves up gourmet dinner cruises in collaboration with the French house of gastronomy Lenôtre. The seasonal menu includes noble products and dishes that have been elaborated exclusively for the cruise. Enjoy an appetizer of crayfish followed by poultry with zucchini flowers, then cheese and dessert. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully

food & wine Fauchon

A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. M° Madeleine .Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies.

La Grande Epicerie Rive Droite

This high end grocery store carries superb and carefully selected meats, fish, cheeses and produce as well as a full range of gourmet products ranging from spices to teas and coffees, condiments, a host of sweet treats and more. There is a fine selection of beers, wines and spirits and a luxury counter with truffles, smoked salmon and caviar and other delicacies. There are several eateries on the premises as well as tasting counters. 80 rue de Passy (16th), 01.44.14.38.00. M° La Muette

La Maison Plisson

This grocery store carries a full range of excellent,

carefully sourced products ranging from meats to cheeses to cold cuts and fresh fruits and vegetables. Homemade juices, fine wines and fresh breads are all available and there is a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and light meals and snacks. 93 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.71.18.19.09. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissart

Nicolas

The celebrated Parisian wine shops offer a wide range of reds, whites, rosés, champagnes and liquors for all budgets. A warm welcome and excellent advice are hallmarks of Nicolas. The three-storey Place de la Madeleine boutique is the largest and features a wine cellar. An on the premises wine bar is opened Mon-Fri noon8pm/Sat noon-3pm. 31 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.68.00.16. Mº Madeleine

Vintage&Cie

Exceptional wines are found in this shop, which specialises in grands crus, old vintages and rare wines. The boutique also offers a selection of champagnes and spirits as well as an eclectic range of more accessible wines. Every Thursday evening between 6pm and 8pm the house holds tastings open to the public to discover a wine, champagne or a spirit and the tasting room in the wine cellar can be privatised. The house also offers advice for constituting a wine cellar and private space in its own cellars to store your wine. 199 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.70.98.43. M° Ternes

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Aux Lyonnais - Bistro (€€)

A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot

Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)

Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra

Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)

This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted free-

range chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides

Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)

This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards

Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)

This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles

Clover Grill - Steakhouse (€€€)

The latest offering from French chef JeanFrançois Piège sees carnivores treated to the best steak in town. Black Market beef from Australia and Prime Angus beef from Kansas are only some of the cuts found on the menu alongside cocktails created by the talented trio behind the Experimental Cocktail Club especially for the restaurant. Mon- Sat L&D. 6 rue Bailleul (1st), 01.40.41.59.59. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)

The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

Le Céladon - Gourmet (€€€€)

This restaurant inside the Hôtel Westminster offers up sourced market-based gastronomic dishes in a refined Regency style setting. Chef Christophe Moisand changes the menu on a weekly basis but dishes may include a medley of Saint Jacques with leeks and candied lemon for starters and marinated cod poached with ginger for a main. Daily L & D. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. M° Opéra

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Bateaux Parisiens | Dining on the Seine (7th) 66 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

Vintage & Cie | Food & Wine (8th)

dining

Address Book

Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)

A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries

Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)

This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)

Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in this one-star restaurant with an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal

Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)

This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)

A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille

Breakfast in America - American (€€)

For a traditional American Diner serving classic comfort food - including real burgers and breakfasts (omelets, bagels and yummy pancakes with real maple syrup etc.), plus fresh milkshakes and much more. Receive 10% off when you order breakfast anytime of the day by showing our ad. 4 rue Malher (4th), 01.42.72.40.21. M° Saint-Paul

L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)

In a beautiful 17 century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively th

simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul

L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)

A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-gerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)

This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)

This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)

The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)

The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)

Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

La Méditerranée - Seafood

(€€)

A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glass-

walled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon

Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)

This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel

La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)

A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)

Cozy restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€)

Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue

Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)

In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel

Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)

Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)

Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

La MéDiterranée | Seafood (6th)

La tour D’argent | Classic French (5th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 67

dining

Address Book half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne

Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)

This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)

The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac

Les Ombres - Contemporary

(€€€€)

The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAmps-elysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie (€€€)

An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil

39V - Contemporary (€€€)

This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V

La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V

Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)

Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)

Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)

This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)

Chef Michel Roth serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Tues-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Monsieur - French (€€€€)

This contemporary hotel restaurant serves authentic French cuisine inspired by the countryside. The menu changes every month, with a different region celebrated and served up using the freshest ingredients. Mon-Fri L&D. Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. M° George V

Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)

The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V

Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)

Le Camondo - Contemporary (€€€)

Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)

Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine

Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)

The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

This delightful restaurant in a private mansion is adjacent to the museum of the same name. The menu changes with the seasons and can include a crab and grapefruit salad for starters followed by filet of duck breast with figs. There are a host of homemade pastries for dessert. Tues-Sat L&D, Sun L only. 61bis rue de Monceau (8th), 01.45.63.40.40. M° Villiers

Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens

of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)

Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles

Les Confidences du San Régis - French

Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)

Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau

Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)

This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau

Yeeels - Contemporary (€€€)

This chic and trendy bar and restaurant offers up fresh and inventive fare and both classic and highly original cocktails in an elegant atmosphere. For starters try the refreshing gazpacho or asparagus with Parmesan cheese and radishes. Main dishes can include salmon with wild rice or a filet of Black Angus beef while cheesecake and a raspberry based pastry are stars of the dessert menu. Daily L&D. 24 ave George V (8th), 01.42.88.75.75. M° George V

Around opérA GArnIer & pIGAlle (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)

The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards

reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. b, L & D: breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Les Ombres | Contemporary (7th) 68 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

(€€€)

In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau

LaDurée Champs-eLysées | French Pastries (8th)

dining

Address Book Café Pouchkine - Café (€)

This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin

Friends & Family -Bistro (€€€)

This charming Parisian restaurant offers up classic French, seasonal fare in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For starters sample sautéed mushrooms or creamy butternut squash soup, a delicious main course is the veal cutlet served in the pan and you can wind up with a cheese plate followed by a chocolate mousse flavoured with passion fruit. Tues-Fri L&D Sat D only. 18 Cité Bergère (9th), 01.45.23.33.33. M° Bonne Nouvelle

Le Lumière - Gourmet

(€€€)

Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)

Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) East Mamma - Italian (€)

This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin

Le Train Bleu - Classic French

(€€€)

A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)

A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille

Ober Mamma - Italian (€)

Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff.

Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf

Septime - Classic French (€€€)

Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)

This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)

Discover Paris from the 56 floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse th

Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles

Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)

One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)

A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière

L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)

This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea

bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)

This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile

Makassar - Contemporary (€€)

Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram

Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)

This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

BeLLeviLLe (19th, 20th) Au Boeuf Couronne - Classic French (€€)

Unique in its genre, this restaurant remains one of the city’s temples to red meat with 16 cuts of beef available in various sizes. Prime rib, filets of Charolais beef, veal kidneys and homemade potatoes are all superb. The upstairs dining room can be reserved for private parties. Daily L&D. 188 ave Jean Jaurès (19th), 01.42.39.44.44. Mº Porte de Pantin

Mama Shelter Paris - Contemporary (€€)

This restaurant features simple fare in a warm and welcoming setting. For starters there is a nice lentil salad while main courses include Black Angus steak with a pepper sauce. The establishment in known for its fine selection of pizzas and there are plenty of choices for vegetarians. Daily B, L & D, brunch is served on Sundays in place of lunch. 109 rue de Bagnolet, 01.43.48.48.48. M° Gambetta

suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)

This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt

ReminiSens - Classic French

(€€€€)

This restaurant nestled in a Baroque ambiance is a gastronomic journey into the 17th and 18th centuries. The menu offers recipes of the age of the kings of France while actors in Baroque costumes tell you the secrets of the French court at your table. Three gastronomic theme menus revolving around the hunt, fish and the market garden are on offer. Dinner only Tues-Sun. 20 rue Baillet Reviron, 78000 Versailles, 06.71.67.02.86. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche Château de Versailles stop

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

east MaMMa | Italian (11th)

FrienDs & FaMiLy | Bistro (9th) w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 69

The Guide

By Sandra Iskander

entertainment

Sneak into the No Entry speakeasy for a chic cocktail hour (page 72)

70 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2018

No Entry - Piemonte - Crédit photo Joann Pai

entertainment

Events

A Bowie Celebration He changed the world of music and now Celebrating David Bowie pays homage to the singer who left behind an extraordinary body of work. On the 10th of January Salle Pleyel is welcoming the Paris leg of the Celebrating David Bowie tour, which will see the late singer’s friends, band mates and international artists come together to perform his most famous songs. Watch as, among others, Mike Garson, Gerry Leonard and Angelo Moore take to the French capital to celebrate the life and work of “Ziggy Stardust”.

A Bowie Celebration: Press Photo - credit Daniel Robson; Nuits Russes BClub by Café de l’Homme Paris Novembre 2017 ©AngiaVaudron

Tickets a Fnac Salle Pleyel 252 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 76 49 43 13

Moscow in Paris Through to the month of March the Café de l’Homme restaurant is transforming its famous terrace into the ephemeral BClub. Every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, from 7pm to 2am, the BClub welcomes the music, the tastes and the festivities of Russia to offer guests an unforgettable evening. With a front row seat to the best show in town, the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the distance, listen to Russian folk music and toast the evening with vodka while sampling caviar courtesy of the Petrossian Bar. BClub by Café de l’Homme 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 44 05 30 15 Upon reservation it is important to note that it is for the BClub – Nuits Russes. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 71

entertainment Bars

A Cocktail in the Clouds A hop, skip and a jump away from the Gare de Lyon is the new Citizen M hotel where on the top floor you will find cloudM, the hotel’s sky bar that boasts a fabulous view of the City of Light. Designed like a Parisian apartment, the bar is open daily from 6pm to 1am and offers all your favourite cocktails. Grab a seat at the marble bar, looking straight at the impressive wall of bottles, or perhaps at a table overlooking the famous Gare de Lyon clock tower and enjoy your drink on cloud nine. cloudM 8 rue Van Gogh (12th), 01 86 65 07 40

What was once a hospital is now a very popular Italian restaurant in the Pigalle neighbourhood, and at its speakeasy bar, No Entry, you can enjoy cool cocktails before or after enjoying the restaurant specialty pizzas or perhaps their huge T-bone steak, which you will have no doubt passed on your way in and out of the bar. Hidden in the basement of the Pink Mamma restaurant is the bar, where to gain entry you need to make your way through the storage room where the chef keeps the restaurant’s meat at 3°C. Popular with Parisians and visitors looking for an original address in the French capital, No Entry is a gateway to a great night out, fuelled by very delicious cocktails. No Entry 20bis rue de Douai (9th), 09 83 55 94 52 72 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

Prescribed Cocktails

entertainment Bars

Glassy Evenings In the City of Light’s colourful neighbourhood of Pigalle is where you will find Glass. From the same group that has brought us the city’s most famous speakeasy bars, this bar, while not a speakeasy, is as popular as the other addresses mainly due to the fact that it is one of the rare spots that stays open very late, even welcoming staff from neighbouring bars after they themselves stop serving. The bar is fun and loud with music blasting and the cocktails flowing. Open from 7pm, Glass welcomes guests with delicious cocktails, hallmarks of the Quixotic Projects’s cocktail bars, and a snacking menu featuring hotdogs, before slowly turning into an impromptu club where guests move to the healthy mix of music from the 80s, 90s and the 2000s. Glass is open daily until 4am from Sunday through to Thursday and until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays. Glass 7 rue Frochot (9th)

Sans titre-5 1

01/06/2017 11:51

Cabarets

Paradis Latin

CRAZY HORSE

PARADIS LATIN

A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show is inspired by the endless theme of femininity . Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.

Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.

www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau

www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V

74 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2018

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily. www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche

LIDO

LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! - THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 175E - REVUE À 21H ET 23H À PARTIR DE 77E - DINNER AND SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175E - SHOW AT 9PM & 11PM FROM 77E

MONTMARTRE 82, BLD DE CLICHY 75018 PARIS - TEL : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - WWW.MOULINROUGE.COM

Address Book

entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum

Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille

Buddha Bar

This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. M° Concorde

The Ballroom

This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles

Le Bar

The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Bar du Plaza Athénée

Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Bar Le Baudelaire

This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine

Experimental Cocktail Bar

A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier

Juveniles

This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides

Kléber Bar

High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière

Harry’s New York Bar

This landmark establishment is a fine place

BadaBoum | Bars & Wine Bars (11th) 76 W HE RE Paris I J A N UA R Y 2018

to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra

with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf

Hotel Costes Bar

Moonshiner

Hotel Providence

Pershing Hall

This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries Enjoy creative cocktails or a glass of wine in this cosy bar on a cobblestone street in the lively Grands Boulevards neighbourhood. The spot is outfitted with a fireplace and a boudoir-style ambiance and the bartender can mix you a made-to-measure drink. 90 rue René Boulanger (10th), 01.46.34.34.04. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Le Bristol Bar

This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil

Le Bar Long

This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

La Closerie des Lilas

The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin

Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar

A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo

This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin Hidden away off the Champs-Elysées in a 19th century mansion occupied by General Pershing during World War I, this hotel bar lounge is cosy, fun and serves original cocktails including the SparklingLalique. 49 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.58.36.58.00. M° George V

Prescription Cocktail Club

This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon

The Ice Kube

Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle

casino Casinos Barrière

France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord

jazz clubs Caveau de la Huchette

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V

This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel

Le Rubis

Duc des Lombards

Le Lucien Bar

This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides

Les Jardins du Pont Neuf

With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé”

One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet

Jazz Club Etoile

A true temple to jazz since it opened two

Pershing hall | Bars & Wine Bars (8th)

entertainment

Address Book

decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

New Morning

The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau

Gentlemen’s clubs

Raspoutine

Le Montana

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards

This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le Social Club

Pink Paradise

The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Secret Square

The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes

Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

Les Bains

This club, in the hotel of the same name, is one of the places to be for a slice of great Parisian nightlife. The venue hosts live shows, concerts as well as resident and guest DJs featuring hip-hop, soul and tunes from the 1970s taking guests back into the club’s glory days. Tues-Sat, midnight until dawn. 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé (3rd), 01.42.77.07.07. M° Rambuteau

Pachamama

Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 06.59.21.32.44. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

This delightful dinner-club spread out over four beautifully decorated floors in a 19th century building by Gustave Eiffel is just footsteps away from the Bastille. Enjoy drinks, dinner or a DJ set in a festive South American ambiance. Features include a monumental Art Deco staircase, a ballroom, a restaurant showcasing Latin American specialties and a smoking room. Daily from 5pm. 46-48 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (12th), 01.55.78.84.75. M° Bastille

Le Baron

Palais Maillot

niGht clubs L’Arc Paris

You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance - there’s live music - attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot

Le Duplex

Queen Club

Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile

Le Mona Lisa

Just footsteps from the Louvre this friendly and

festive club brings in the fashion crowd and plenty of Parisian trendsetters. The chic and arty clientele enjoys a programme of hip-hop, rock and a touch of electro pop. The establishment also boasts a restaurant . Tues-Sat 8pm-6am. 47 rue Berger (1st), 01 40 13 12 12. M° Louvre-Rivoli

This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V

Pachamama

| Night Clubs (12th)

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

Silencio

Titty Twister

This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V

Vanity Paris

This sought-after venue offers hip-hop vibes in a luxurious setting where the champagne flows in every corner. Special soirées are held every night including Throwback Thursday for an old school style party. The door policy is strict so be sure to dress smart. Tues-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 25 rue de Richelieu (1st), 06 69 72 79 79. M° Pyramides

VIP Room

One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto

Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie

Le Double Fond

This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul

secret square

| Gentlemen’s Clubs (17th) w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 77

The Guide

services

For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris eurostar & trains

medical services

Eurostar - Aim to arrive at least 30 minutes

American Hospital of Paris - 63 blvd Victor Hugo,

before departure time or you will risk not being allowed to board the train. If you still need to pick up your ticket at the station you should arrive at least an hour before your scheduled departure. 08.92.35.35.39. www.eurostar.com

SNCF - TGV trains leave from varying

stations (www.sncf.com). Thalys, links Paris to Brussels and Amsterdam (www.thalys.com). You can buy a ticket in any station for any destination; your ticket will indicate your departure station. Punch your ticket in the composteur before boarding your train or risk being fined.

limousines Biribin – Tel: 01.43.48.65.65 Chabé Limousines – Tel: 01.41.20.95.10 FIRST Limousine – Tel: 01.41.40.99.99 Massey Limousines – Tel: 01.58.05.13.00 MC Plaza – Tel: 01.58.62.57.47 Meet the French – Tel: 01.53.53.14.94 My Daily Driver – Tel: 01.43.24.28.15 MY STS – Tel: 01.74.54.50.08 Premier Limousine – Tel: 01.47.31.80.50 Service Prestige – Tel: 01.44.29.29.44

Paris districts

92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01.46.41.25.25. M° Pont de Neuilly British American Pharmacy - 1 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.65.88.29. M° Opéra Pharmacie des Champs-Elysées (24/24) 84 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.02.41. M° Franklin Roosevelt Pharmacie Monge - 74 rue Monge (5th), 01.43.31.39.44. M° Place Monge

rental cars & scooters

Avis - Tel: 08.21.23.07.60, www.avis.fr Budget - Tel: 08.25.00.35.64, www.budget.fr First GT Location - Tel: 01.41.19.29.62,

1st ARRONDISSEMENT - The Louvre museum housing the Mona Lisa overlooks the Tuileries Gardens.

www.firstgtlocation.fr Freescoot - Tel: 01.44.07.06.72, www.freescoot.com Europcar - Tel: 08.25.35.83.58, www.europcar.fr Hertz - Tel: 08.25.86.18.61, www.hertz.fr

2nd ARRONDISSEMENT - Rue Etienne Marcel and the Place des Victoires are lined with trendy boutiques.

tax refund When shopping do not forget to claim back the taxes paid. Most boutiques require a minimum amount spent in the one day (and in the same store) before you can apply for the tax refund. Along with your payment simply show them your passport and ask them to fill in the detaxe form for you, which you will later need customs to stamp at the airport before flying off.

3rd - 4th ARRONDISSEMENT - Orthodox Jews rub shoulders with the gay crowd in the Marais, the city’s oldest existing neighborhood. 5th ARRONDISSEMENT - Where you will

find the young crowds hanging out at Place St Michel and on Rue Mouffetard, a lively market street.

6th ARRONDISSEMENT - The epitome of Left Bank intellectual chic, with luxury shops and famous cafés.

7th ARRONDISSEMENT - Stroll the impeccable Champ de Mars, visit Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides and see the Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay.

©Octav Dragan

8th ARRONDISSEMENT - High fashion and galleries are on Avenue Montaigne and Rue St-Honoré, while the Place de la Madeleine offers gourmet food shops.

hair salons

real estate agencies

Alexandre de Paris - 3 ave Matignon (8 ), th

01.42.25.57.90. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Christophe-Nicolas Biot - 52 rue Saint-André des Arts (6th), 01.43.26.58.21. M° Odéon Coiffirst - 52 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.07.11.01. M° Madeleine David Mallett - 14 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires (2nd), 01.40.20.00.23. M° Bourse Institut Leonor Greyl - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.32.26. M° Madeleine L’instant 2moss - 5 Square de l’Opéra-Louis Jouvet (9th), 01.44.56.03.66. M° Madeleine Salon Konfidentiel - 267 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.61.05.35. M° Concorde Salon Rossano Ferretti - 4 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.31.95. M° Concorde 78 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Barnes Paris - 120 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.85.34.70.70. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Coldwell Banker - 8 rue Lamennais (8th), 01.83.53.53.53. M° George V Daniel Féau - 140 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.53.07.07. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Emile Garcin - 24 rue du Boccador (8th), 01.58.12.02.02. M° Alma-Marceau Espaces Atypiques - 64 rue des Tournelles (3rd), 01.42.71.03.84. M° Bréguet-Sabin Philippe Menager & Nicolas Hug - 31 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.53.10.22.60. M° Mabillon Paris Attitude - 21 rue Vauvenargues (18th), 01.42.96.31.46. M° Richelieu-Drouot Vingt Paris - 253 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.09.80. M° Concorde

9th ARRONDISSEMENT - Find the sumptuous Opéra Garnier, and the ever-busy department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann. 10th ARRONDISSEMENT - Take a boat tour for a closeup look at canal locks in action. The quais de Jemmapes and Valmy are where you will find fun boutiques and restaurants. 11th- 12th ARRONDISSEMENT - The areas around the Bastille come alive at night with nightclubs and bars.

13th - 14th - 15th ARRONDISSEMENT - The

Tour Montparnasse is surrounded by traditional crepe restaurants while Chinatown is found near Place d’Italie.

16th - 17th ARRONDISSEMENT - The Place du Trocadéro offers a picture-perfect view of the Eiffel Tower. 18th ARRONDISSEMENT - Near the Sacré Coeur, portrait artists crowd around the Place du Tertre. Down the hill in Pigalle, watch the dancers at the Moulin Rouge. 19th - 20th ARRONDISSEMENT - Paris’s

famous neighbourhood where you can pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at the Père Lachaise cemetery.

Getting to and from the Airport TO CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY) AIRPORT

TO BEAUVAIS AIRPORT Buses leave daily from the bus parking lot on Blvd Pershing near Hotel Concorde Lafayette (17th, M° Porte Maillot). arrive 3 hours and 15 minutes before departure time (13€). Or take TEr train from Gare du Nord to Beauvais (11.50€, 1 hr 20 min), then taxi to airport.

Le Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses (08 92 35 08 20) leave daily from Montparnasse (14 rue du Commandant Mouchotte, 15th, M° Montparnasse) and Gare de Lyon (20 blvd Diderot, 12th, M° Gare de Lyon), every 30 minutes, 5:30am-10:30pm, 6:15am-10:45pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). These buses also leave from the arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Porte Maillot (Blvd Gouvion st Cyr, 17th, M° Porte Maillot), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro) and the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean rey, 7th, rEr Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), every 30 minutes, 5:45am-11pm, 6am-11:15pm, from airport (17€ one way, 30€ round trip). Take rEr B (9.50€) or catch the roissybus (10€) at 11 rue scribe, 9th, M° Opéra, every 15 minutes between 5:45am and 8pm, every 20 minutes between 7pm and 10pm and every 30 minutes between 10pm and 11pm. (01 58 76 16 16). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT AND ORLY AIRPORT Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses leave daily from Charles de Gaulle (roissy) from 6am to 10:15pm for Orly airport/departures from Orly airport to Charles de Gaulle airport from 6:30am to 10:30pm. (21€ one way, 36€ round trip). Frequency: every 20 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 minutes. also rEr B from Charles de Gaulle to the antony station then the OrlyVal service to Orly sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from 6am-11pm from antony and Orly sud. Travel time between the two airports is about 1 hour and 10 minutes. www.lebusdirect.com

TO ORLY AIRPORT The rEr B, direction st-rémy, connects with Orlyval, an automatic train, at antony. Orlyval runs every 5-7 minutes, 6am-11pm (8.70€). The rEr C direction Massy-Verrières connects with a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or take Orlybus outside the Denfert-rochereau Métro stop (14th), every 20 minutes 5:35am-11pm (7.20€). Bus Direct-Paris aéroport buses leave from the arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile), Trocadéro (42-46 ave du Président Wilson, 16th, M° Trocadéro), the Eiffel Tower (18-20 rue Jean rey, 7th, rEr Champs de Mars-Tour Eiffel), La Motte-Picquet (88 ave de suffren, 15th, M° La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle) and Gare Montparnasse (rue du commandant Mouchotte, M° Gare Montparnasse) every 20 minutes, 4:50am-10:30pm, 6am-11:40pm, from airport (12€ one way, 20€ round trip). www.aeroportsdeparis.fr

Visitors Bureau reception teams, documentation and bookings are all available at the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau welcome centres. Visitors are welcome seven days a week in the main office located at 25 rue des Pyramides (1st), M° Pyramides. Opening Hours: From November 1st to april 30th, 10am to 7pm. Other branches include Gare du Nord (10th), Gare de l’Est (10th), Paris Rendez-vous (4th) M° Hôtel de Ville and Montmartre/Anvers (18th) M° Anvers. www.parisinfo.com

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w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 79

Services

Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

80 W HE RE Pa r i s I J A N UAR Y 2018

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.50€). This map includes the new tramway line.

“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

tiersPageV3.indd 2

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 81 09/07/15 22:59

My Paris

JUAN CARLOS FERNANDES

ASSISTANT HEAD CONCIERGE AT LE MÉRIDIEN ÉTOILE

Jules Verne

Chalet des Iles

Picasso Museum

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Have breakfast at Les Deux Magots then walk through the art galleries of the famous Carré Rive Gauche neighbourhood before going on a private tour of the city with Retro-tour, an adventure aboard an authentic sidecar. Head to the Marais to visit the Picasso Museum, then go on a stroll towards the Marché des Enfants Rouges before having lunch at Bistro Benoit. Continue your day discovering the Musée d’Orsay, the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe. Then have dinner at the Pré Catelan and finish the evening with a live concert at the famous Jazz Club Etoile in the Le Méridien Etoile hotel.

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The Montparnasse Tower, the best spot for a panoramic view of Paris.

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Allard and Paul Bert, they are both emblematic of French bistro dining with both being culinary references for many years. 82 W HE RE PA R I S I J A N UA R Y 2018

It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? L’Arc, a chic private mansion with a garden in the heart of the Etoile neighbourhood, and Titty Twister, a trendy club with a Hollywood/Tarentino vibe. As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Rue Saint-Honoré and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for their famous fashion designer boutiques, Boulevard Haussmann for its large department stores, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, which offer you the help of personal shoppers to make your shopping easier.

Sacré-Coeur

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? Le Jules Verne for the view, the chef, the history and the romanticism. Yachts de Paris for an intimate dinner along the River Seine cruising alongside the most beautiful illuminated Paris monuments. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? Bois de Boulogne to see its lakes, the Serres d’Auteuil garden, and to simply stroll through the “green lung” of Paris.

My perfect day 8am: Sunrise at the Sacré Coeur 12pm: Lunch at l’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 3pm: Take part in a perfume workshop at Le Studio des Parfums 9pm: Dinner at Châlet des Iles

where

Your Guide to the World

Jazz Club Etoile

W W W. B A C C A R A T. C O M Yo u a r e i n v i t e d t o d i s c o v e r o u r c o l l e c t i o n s a t o u r B a c c a r a t B o u t i q u e s : 7 9 , r u e d u F a u b o u r g S a i n t - H o n o r é • P a r i s 7 5 0 0 8 • Te l : 0 1 4 2 6 5 3 6 2 6 1 1 , P l a c e d e s E t a t s - U n i s • P a r i s 7 5 0 1 6 • Te l : 0 1 4 0 2 2 1 1 0 0